From jhre@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:03 EDT 1995
Article: 17392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (Jim Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buyer's Premiums at Auctions
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 21:34:32 GMT
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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Message-ID: <44pmjf$hss@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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laddie2@ix.netcom.com (Laddie Martinek ) wrote:

>In <43vane$cjt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> writt@aol.com (WRitt) writes: 
>>
>>I live in CT, and attended an auction this week, and there was no
>"buyers
>>premium". Nobody I've talked to has heard of it on this coast yet.
>>
>>Bill Rittner
>>Manchester, CT

>some autions hear in NYC have buyers premiums

Out here on Long Island the standard "Buyer's Premium" is 10%
The only thing they don't do is wear a mask......

Jim Harvey
jhre@ix.netcom.com
hre@localweb.com
http://www.wp.com/HarveyRacing
>                         Laddie




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:05 EDT 1995
Article: 17393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news.sandia.gov!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: CUTTING OIL recamendations?
Message-ID: <1995Oct1.232445.37@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <44kidh$ebi@alaska.nwlink.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 23:24:45 GMT
Lines: 29

In article <44kidh$ebi@alaska.nwlink.com>, Rich S <hr@nwlink.com> wrote:
>	I've heard about a product called Boelube. It's a soild form 
>(like wax) cutting lubricate that's non-toxic and supposed to be 
>non-irritating, which is good for me because the littlest wiff of 
>cutting oil smoke makes my throat and lungs feel I've ran them through 
>a cheese grater. Has anybody in the group used this product? Could it 
>be used in lathe work?

I've never used it, but have used something that sounds a bit like it - 
Tap-Ease (or some such name).  It didn't work well for me on any of the 
materials I tried it on (Al, crs, 4130).

>	Secondly: Brownell's DO-DRILL. Is it as good as advertised? 

I don't know - I tend to use a sulphurated oil where it would do, and
have never tried Do-Drill.  The sulphurated oil I use is Rigid cutting
oil, and it serves me pretty well.

>	Thirdly: I would like to hear any recomendations on good 
>universal type (lathe, mill, drill) cutting fluids.

I'm not sure that there's anything "universal", perhaps one of the
emulsified water and oil mixes would serve.  I tend to use one of
three things: cutting oil, kerosene and Tap Magic.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From martin@dvorak.amd.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:06 EDT 1995
Article: 17394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!amd.com!martin
From: martin@dvorak.amd.com (Martin Schuessler)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: 2 Oct 1995 19:09:55 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Austin TX
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <44pde3$a2m@amdint.amd.com>
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:93129 rec.crafts.metalworking:17394 misc.consumers.house:98002


In article <44h1nn$c1j@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>, hbybee@zurich.dseg.ti.com (Hal H. Bybee, Jr.) writes:
>Roger Hoover (rhoover@shimano.watson.ibm.com) wrote:
>
> > Being new to the world of compressed air, I have a few
> > questions on proper etiquette:
>
> > 3) Is it okay to leave the tank pressurized all the time, or
> >    should I take it down on some interval (daily? weekly? other?)
>
>Just like with SCUBA tanks, if you are going to leave the tank
>unused for several weeks or months, let it down to a low pressure
>(15-20 psi) so that it is harder for more water to form if the
>temperature drops.  This is a bigger concern than the metal
>fatigue due to raising and lowering the pressure.

You never want to drop the pressure in a scuba tank to 15-20 psi. It's impossible
to gauge when you get that low (3000psi is normal), and if you empty your tank
you'll cause corrosion problems from moisture in the air. Air used for scuba
diving is completely dry and filtered. 

A compressor uses humid air, which is why you want to drain the condensed moisture
out of it before you cause corrosion problems.

Martin Schuessler
PADI Divemaster #59146


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:07 EDT 1995
Article: 17395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 18:22:09 GMT
Subject: Re: advice on adjusting bandsaw
Message-ID: <101260078@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <44cncb$o9j@times.tfs.com>
Lines: 12

Check the top wheel alighment with a straight edge to make sure you have
adjusted it to be parallel with the bottom wheel.  (It can move a bit
under tension, so try it with a blade in place--*not* running.)

Once thw wheels are aligned, and the side bearings are properly tight
engouh, I find that the next variable is the blade tension.  I have
better luck with the Enco bimetal blades, because the tension I like is
more than their carbon steel blades will take for more than a couple of
weeks.  I got 4 months on my last bimetal blade, sawing a mix of 
aluminum, mild steel, aluminum and brass.  

Pete Brooks


From ch916@freenet.carleton.ca Thu Oct  5 22:55:09 EDT 1995
Article: 17396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!fonorola!news.magi.com!newsadm
From: Neil Surch <ch916@freenet.carleton.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: 2 Oct 1995 02:43:37 GMT
Organization: National Capital Freenet
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <44njkp$dm0@news.magi.com>
References: <43mmn1$jq4@watnews2.watson.ibm.com>
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:93135 rec.crafts.metalworking:17396 misc.consumers.house:98007

rhoover@shimano.watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover) wrote:
>
>Being new to the world of compressed air, I have a few
>questions on proper etiquette:
>
>1) I've been told to drain the water out of the tank every
>   day I use the compressor.  Is it safe to do this at any
>   pressure?
>
>2) The space under the drain valve is kind of tight.  What's
>   a good way to collect the water so you don't have to empty
>   a little pan lots of times and so you don't get water all
>   over the floor?
>
>3) Is it okay to leave the tank pressurized all the time, or
>   should I take it down on some interval (daily? weekly? other?)
>
>4) Is it okay to leave hoses pressurized for long periods of
>   time?
>
>5) Quick connect couplers have a lot of kick at 175psi.  Is
>   there a way to control this when disconnecting?
>
>roger
>rhoover@watson.ibm.com

Well Roger,

  First I would not try to drain a tank with a pressure higher than say 20 
PSI, especially if you have a tank with just a plug as the plug will fly 
out real fast (not to mention scare the hell out of you).  Secondly visit 
your plumbing store and get an elbow with a big tap or ball valve and 
attach it to the bottom.  This way when you are finished for the night you 
can drain the tank easily (like in about 2 minutes).  

 2.  With a valve or tap installed you can collect the water easily.  If 
drained daily the accumulation will be small (but dirty).

 3.  I try and leave my tank almost empty if not empty of air it just 
relieves the stress on the pistons and seals not to mention anything else 
connected (i.e. question 4 hoses).

 4. see 3.

 5. Hold both ends of the coupler as the female coupler check valve closes 
it kicks the male end out, and the built up pressure in the air tool also 
flows out in the opposite direction.  Another note most tools work within 
the 90-100 PSI range so the hose should not be at 175 PSI.  Spray guns use 
about 20-40 PSI so unless you are using something like a sandblaster or 
blow gun I would not recommend 175PSI for anything.  The main reason 
compressor go to 175 PSI is to increase the volume of air contained in a 
tank,  I read somewhere that a 175 tank holds 2 to 3 times the volume of 
air a 150 PSI tank does with the same capacity (60 gal.).

Anyway I hope this helps you out.

   Neil Surch




From larrys@zk3.dec.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:11 EDT 1995
Article: 17397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.iag.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing clock brass
Date: 2 Oct 1995 19:41:34 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44pf9e$2n9@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
References: <44a804$pgf@pacific.pacific.net> <1995Sep28.120951.3341@bbxrbk.basis.com> <44hhke$p9n@news.sdd.hp.com> <44krrk$j02@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <DFr6o0.G11@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
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In article <DFr6o0.G11@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>, kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:
>  Or, if you're running an antique store, just spray the movements with 
>gold spray paint. 
 
   _____                                    .__    .__   ._._._.
  /  _  \ _____ ______________  ____   ____ |  |__ |  |__| | | |
 /  /_\  \\__  \\_  __ \_  __ \/ ___\ / ___\|  |  \|  |  \ | | |
/    |    \/ __ \|  | \/|  | \/ /_/  > /_/  >   Y  \   Y  \|\|\|
\____|__  (____  /__|   |__|  \___  /\___  /|___|  /___|  /_____
        \/     \/            /_____//_____/      \/     \/\/\/\/

There is a special place in hell reserved for people who spray-paint
the insides of clocks and music boxes!

-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:12 EDT 1995
Article: 17398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.dacom.co.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!news.kei.com!news.ssd.intel.com!news.jf.intel.com!ichips.intel.com!gdermer
From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lard Oil & white lead
Date: 2 Oct 95 20:52:20 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <gdermer.812667140@ichips.intel.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dtt026.intel.com

20 years or so ago when I worked in a shop full time, we used a mixture
of white lead and lard oil as a tapping lubricant for steel.  Clearly the
white lead is no longer (never was??) a good idea from a health point
of view, but the stuff worked great.  Somewhere I've seen a no-lead white
lead (!) but can't figure out where it was.  Anybody else know?

Also, lard oil doesn't seem to be readily available anymore.  I think I
saw it listed in an old McMaster-Carr, but has anyone seen it elsewhere?

Greg

gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:13 EDT 1995
Article: 17399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!sab
From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [??] Sharpening damascus knives
Message-ID: <1995Oct2.122016.6969@tower>
Date: 2 Oct 95 12:20:16 -0500
References: <812118698.16711@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Lines: 15

In article <812118698.16711@codesmth.demon.co.uk>, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) writes:
> I've just bought a damascus bladed penknife, but I'm having trouble
> sharpening it.
> 
> What should I use as an angle for damascus steel ?
> 
I have always sharpened the knives I make in essentially identical
fashion whether they are 5160's or damascus.  My typical damacus
mix is O1-L6-wrought iron with a terminal C content of .65 (apprx).
If there are no pure nickel layers, carbon migration should have
given you a fairly homogeneous edge (carbon-wise), hence given a
decent heat-treat, it ought to take a good edge.  It may be that
the Rockwell on the blade isn't comparable to your other blades.

Steve Bloom (IronFlower Forge - Archer,FL)


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu Oct  5 22:55:14 EDT 1995
Article: 17400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Running three phase motors from single phase 220V
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 20:50:58 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <hanrahan.38.307050B1@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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>In article <449og5$btr@server.btg.com>, noorder@tac3.btg.com (Alex 
>Noordergraaf) says:
>>
>>
>>I need some advice on how to use three phase motors off of single phase 
>220.

Check out the METAL WEB NEWS at:
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html

There is some info on building a 3 phase converter. I can also FAX you some 
other articles on this if you want.


--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Thu Oct  5 22:55:15 EDT 1995
Article: 17401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!nbt.nbnet.nb.ca!news
From: "John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cleaning oilstones
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 95 20:31:38 -0300
Organization: NB*Net
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I have several small slips that have sat in gluey old kerosene for 
years, and some that have been used dry. Does anyone have any hints on 
cleaning the gorp out of them? I have gone through all my old 
reference books and cannot find anything although I know I have read 
"how to clean old oilstones" many times in the past. 


I am tempted to boil them in a caustic(lye), but am hesitant about the 
heat.

Thanks for any suggestions.

John



From sheba@panix.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:16 EDT 1995
Article: 17402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!in1.uu.net!panix!not-for-mail
From: sheba@panix.com (Insect God)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Compressor for Sandblasting - which one?
Date: 2 Oct 1995 19:56:30 -0400
Organization: panix.com
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <44pu7e$b6o@panix3.panix.com>
References: <43mmn1$jq4@watnews2.watson.ibm.com> <44otde$7dh@news.bu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix3.panix.com

Thanks all who have written on this thread so far - it's been highly
informative.

In other news, here's my QOTD.  I think I'll need a compressor in the next
year or so, and the highest-priority item it will run is a bead-blasting
cabinet for objects up to 24" in size.  It seems from reading catalogs that
I'll need 12-14 cfm @ 100 PSI for a reasonable unit.

However, if "SCFM" is the same as CFM, MSC doesn't list any that will do
that.  Can this be? 

And what's a good brand?  This is one tool that I'd like to buy only once.

Newsgroups trimmed to r.c.m., since I don't read the others.

-Sheba


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:18 EDT 1995
Article: 17403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v040601
From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841)
Subject: Re: CUTTING OIL recamendations?
Message-ID: <DFsy5z.6xx@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <44kidh$ebi@alaska.nwlink.com> <44l1bj$4j9@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 03:39:34 GMT
Lines: 50

At a different level on the same subject - If I want to equip my mill
with a coolant system, is mist or flood better?  There's about $20-$30
difference in cost of the small units so I'm not sure cost is the deciding
factor.  What does matter?

Thanks,

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim Harvey (jhre@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: hr@nwlink.com (Rich S) wrote:


: >	I've heard about a product called Boelube. It's a soild form 
: >(like wax) cutting lubricate that's non-toxic and supposed to be 
: >non-irritating, which is good for me because the littlest wiff of 
: >cutting oil smoke makes my throat and lungs feel I've ran them through 
: >a cheese grater. Has anybody in the group used this product? Could it 
: >be used in lathe work?
: >	Secondly: Brownell's DO-DRILL. Is it as good as advertised? 
: >	Thirdly: I would like to hear any recomendations on good 
: >universal type (lathe, mill, drill) cutting fluids.



: Rich:

: If you have a flood coolant system, we have found that Kool Mist
: formula 77 works extremely well on almost everything that we machine.
: It is biodegradable, and water soluble,. has no chlorinated solvents
: (which gives your throat the big problems) and keeps the cutting tools
: cool and sharp for a longer period of time . It also doesn't go rancid
: in the tank so the biocides are not necessary. 
: You can use it with a mist system or flood coolant (as we do). I
: really like it..

: Jim Harvey
: jhre@ix.netcom.com
: hre@localweb.com
: http://www.wp.com/HarveyRacing

: >					Thanks in advance.

: >						Rich S




From twhit@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:18 EDT 1995
Article: 17404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: twhit@aol.com (T Whit)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WANTED: Live Steam Back Issues
Date: 2 Oct 1995 20:53:51 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 7
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <44q1iv$joh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: twhit@aol.com (T Whit)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I am looking for two specific back issues of Live Steam Magazine;
March/April 1993 and September/October 1993.  If you have these issues and
would be willing to sell them, or know where I might be able to find them,
PLEASE let me know!  My e-mail address is twhit@aol.com

Thanks,
Whit Boswell


From ernieleim@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:20 EDT 1995
Article: 17405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 2 Oct 1995 00:19:16 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 39
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <44np84$t54@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <44n55b$6o5@news4.digex.net>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

 probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus) wrote :

>Thanks for the tip, Ernie.  Although I haven't had to weld stainless,
yet, I'd 
>like to know more about that Helium-tri mix that you mentioned.  What
should I 
>ask for if I need this gas, to weld stainless?  Also how good of a job
does 
>AG25 (Argon 75%, CO2 25%) do with stainless?

Most welding suppliers will know what you mean when you ask for a Helium
Tri-mix for stainless welding with a mig. It is a standard industrial gas
mix for production stainless work. 75/25 works OK for stainless  as far as
structure , but it leaves a heavy layer of oxides that's really hard to
remove. The Tri-mix will burn hot enough to disipate the nickle oxides,
leaving  a cleaner stronger weld. 
Another really nice thing to know about is UTP Stainless Weld cleaner.
This stuff comes as a white paste. You brush it on the weld and let it sit
for about 20 - 30 minutes. Then wash it off, and SHAZZAM!!, it is
amazingly bright and shiny. OK this stuff is incredibly toxic, but does
astounding things.
Try it, you'll like it.



@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"For this was a time when men were REAL men, women were REAL women and
small furry creatures from alpha centauri were REAL small furry creatures
>from  alpha centauri." --- Douglas Adams  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:20 EDT 1995
Article: 17406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Engine kits
Date: 2 Oct 1995 04:53:58 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <44nr96$mgm@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <xlch58DFsnxx.18D@netcom.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

xlch58@netcom.com wrote:
: Does anyone know of a firm selling casting kits for 1/6 to 1/2 horsepower 
: sterling engines?

StIrling Engines!!! Please!



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:22 EDT 1995
Article: 17407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on Schreckling turbine
Date: 2 Oct 1995 04:59:11 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <44nriv$mqf@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Gary Mayden (garym@sonic.net) wrote:



: Id appreciate any information on this turbine, plans, addresses, specs, and
: personal experiences.

I was corresponding with a guy from South Africa who has built the turbine
rotors, and is now trying to build the combustion chamber.  he says the
engine is 4" in diameter.  He says there is a book with the complete plans.
You can write to him at Joubert@cc.und.ac.za, his name is Pierre Joubert,
in South Africa.
You can say I sent you.




From rrh@io.org Thu Oct  5 22:55:23 EDT 1995
Article: 17408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!van-bc!io.org!nobody
From: rrh@io.org (rrh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CADDigger
Date: 3 Oct 1995 07:19:56 -0400
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Message-ID: <44r68s$pgl@ionews.io.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: twitch.io.org




From jporter@bu.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:24 EDT 1995
Article: 17409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!decwrl!purdue!news.bu.edu!acs3.bu.edu!jporter
From: jporter@bu.edu (John Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Followup-To: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Date: 2 Oct 1995 14:36:30 GMT
Organization: Boston University
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:93190 rec.crafts.metalworking:17409 misc.consumers.house:98035

Roger Hoover (rhoover@shimano.watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: 5) Quick connect couplers have a lot of kick at 175psi.  Is
:    there a way to control this when disconnecting?

You can get couplers that let you relieve the pressure before you
mechanically disconnect the hose. They're compatible with the
"industrial interchange" pattern for the plug end. Grainger's has
them. Probably a good idea if you're using unusually high pressures
or large diameter couplers or have a lot of volume to relieve. They
also make inserting the plug easier.

--
John Porter
jporter@bu.edu


From binzel@melbourne.DIALix.oz.au Thu Oct  5 22:55:26 EDT 1995
Article: 17410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!DIALix!melbourne.DIALix.oz.au!not-for-mail
From: binzel@melbourne.DIALix.oz.au (Martin Deeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Welding homepages
Date: 2 Oct 1995 17:05:13 +1000
Organization: DIALix Services, Melbourne, Australia.
Lines: 3
Sender: binzel@melbourne.DIALix.oz.au
Message-ID: <44o2v9$do4$1@melbourne.DIALix.oz.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: binzel@melbourne.dialix.oz.au

Check out http://www.binzel.com.au for good info on MIG TIG welding and 
Plasma cutting.



From mac@adra.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:27 EDT 1995
Article: 17411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!adragate.adra.com!usenet
From: mac <mac@adra.com>
Subject: Re: Index to HSM and PiM--FREE
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bigmac.adra.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Message-ID: <DFvJ9x.KKF@adra.com>
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References: <43thns$2is_001@vip.best.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 13:10:43 GMT
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Lines: 42

jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau) wrote:
>Would you like to have a full index of both Home Shop Machinist and Projects 
>in Metal?  On disk, and on paper, both?  
>
>I'm preparing one, and I'm using my own collection of these magazines.  But 
>I'm missing the annual indexes for the years 1985 and 1989.  These indexes 
>usually were published in the second or third issues of the following years.  
>Those two indexes, or copies thereof, are all I need to complete the project. 
>They are usually only two or three pages long.  
>
>Imagine having a full index on your computer!  Just type, for instance, 
>"toolpost", and get a list of all articles with "toolpost" in the title, in 
>both magazines, in any year!  Or find all the articles by Guy Lautard.  If you 
>can help the project by contributing good copies of either of those indexes, 
>or by lending me the issues that they appear in, I'll send you a copy of the 
>completed index, free.  And you'll be a benefactor of all the metalworkers  
>who won't have to spend hours leafing through twenty years' of magazines to 
>find all the articles on making your own blast furnace.
> 
>Contribute now!  Don't Wait.  As Lindsay would say, there may never be another 
>chance like this.
>
>
>--
>Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
>Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
>591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
>Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


Joseph,

I have the past couple of years in a database already. I could supply it to you in 
delimited ACSII format for import to another db if it will help your effort.



-- 
Mac
Homebrewer and tinker by choice, Computer geek by trade.




From jamundson@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:28 EDT 1995
Article: 17412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jamundson@aol.com (JAMUNDSON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: laser cutting
Date: 2 Oct 1995 08:20:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <44ole6$5ko@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: jamundson@aol.com (JAMUNDSON)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Job shops with lasers are becoming rather common.  Check the yellow pages.
 I know some places in the upper midwest, if you need them.

Jeff Amundson


From larrys@zk3.dec.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:29 EDT 1995
Article: 17413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Date: 3 Oct 1995 14:08:53 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
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X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-5



What is the quietest type of engine aside from
a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
several projects where it would be nice to motor-
ize them with something other than electricity,
but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.
-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From gbrown@anise.ee.cornell.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:30 EDT 1995
Article: 17414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!simtel!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet
From: gb27@cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: unimat sl questions
Date: 2 Oct 1995 12:23:46 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
Lines: 14
Sender: gb27@cornell.edu (Verified)
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Reply-To: gbrown@anise.ee.cornell.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: atlanta.ee.cornell.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.3

I've been offered a nearly mint unimat sl for $200.  I have a couple
of full sized lathes, so I don't need it but, was considering buying
it to use as a mill/drill spindle on my full sized lathe.  A couple
of questions:

-- What size collets, if any, fit this machine ?
-- Is it powerful enough for say a 3/16 end mill ?
-- I know it is no longer produced, are there  any parts left ?
-- Would I be better served to buy a Sherline headstock and motor
   for use as a mill/drill spindle ?  How about a taig headstock ?

Geoffrey Brown
gbrown@ee.cornell.edu



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu Oct  5 22:55:31 EDT 1995
Article: 17415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cyberstore.ca!news.bctel.net!holly.softwords.bc.ca!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: cleaning clocks
Message-ID: <1995Oct3.083155.3658@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 08:31:55 GMT
Lines: 18


I cleaned and repaired clocks for many years.  I had no trouble with 
ammoniated solvent cleaners, with ultrasonic machines.  A few movements
had patches that remained dull after cleaning.  These were mainly the German
made ones.  The problem seemed to be that the plates had a gold " Flash " 
over the brass.  This plated layer was missing, or came off during 
cleaning, in patches on some clocks.  The solution was to buff the movement 
plates with brown tripoli, and re clean.  It is important to use a good pure 
cleaning solvent, that leaves no residue, as an ultrasonic rinse.  
Ordinary paint thinner is no good.  Two seperate rinse baths is the standard.
Then dry with forced hot air.


-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu Oct  5 22:55:32 EDT 1995
Article: 17416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cyberstore.ca!news.bctel.net!holly.softwords.bc.ca!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: aluminum
Message-ID: <1995Oct3.084340.4020@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 08:43:40 GMT
Lines: 12


My post haven't been getting out onto the net for a while, so here goes 
for the umpteenth time:

I need info on some British aluminum ( ium )  types HE15 & HE30.  I need 
to know the composition & temper, in order to translate it into SAE numbers.
Thanks.
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:55:33 EDT 1995
Article: 17417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!btnet!news.compulink.co.uk!cix.compulink.co.uk!usenet
From: lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Simon Lukic")
Subject: Re: Cerrocast alloy
Message-ID: <DFvnGs.Lwn@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
References: <DFv20B.IwM@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 14:41:16 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol
Lines: 3

Me too please.

Simon


From jaf@a2.mti.cdc.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:34 EDT 1995
Article: 17418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!a2.mti.cdc.com!jaf
From: jaf@a2.mti.cdc.com (James Foster x2912)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Date: 3 Oct 1995 15:38:45 GMT
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44rle5$5j2@cdshub.cdc.com>
References: <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:17418

In article <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>, "John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> writes:
|> I have several small slips that have sat in gluey old kerosene for 
|> years, and some that have been used dry. Does anyone have any hints on 
|> cleaning the gorp out of them? I have gone through all my old 
|> reference books and cannot find anything although I know I have read 
|> "how to clean old oilstones" many times in the past. 
|> 
|> 
|> I am tempted to boil them in a caustic(lye), but am hesitant about the 
|> heat.
|> 

I'd be hesitant too. I'm not sure what benifit this would give either.
What I remember (and my rememberie isn't what it used to be, but then
it never was) is something like: Soak the stones in clean kerosene.
Wrap them in a clean cloth and bake them in an oven. Mind you, I wouldn't
plan on this with 1.) my wife around, 2.) poor ventilation in the dead
of winter 3.) a gas oven. For flat stones I've had good luck with just
reflattening them (a concrete slab makes a good starting place, followed
by loose grit on a glass plate, a sanding belt cut and glued on a plate,
and/or wet/dry paper glued on a plate) and then using a very light honing
oil on them. About 50/50 mineral oil/mineral spirits works pretty well and
is cheap. Obviously this won't work too well for curved slips, but start
out just soaking them in clean kerosene and wire brushing them. This will
probably open up the pores pretty good. For very fine stones you can try
scrubbing them with kitchen cleanser on a stiff brush.


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:35 EDT 1995
Article: 17419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: unimat sl questions
Date: 3 Oct 1995 16:09:39 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <44rn83$fbl@news1.svc>
References: <44olki$3nq@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1 (Windows; U; 16bit)

>-- What size collets, if any, fit this machine ?
You can get a watchmakers spindle for this.  Mucho $!

>-- Is it powerful enough for say a 3/16 end mill ?
Almost.

>-- I know it is no longer produced, are there  any parts left ?
Blue Ridge carries parts.

>-- Would I be better served to buy a Sherline headstock and motor
>   for use as a mill/drill spindle ?  How about a taig headstock ?

Buy the Sherline.

One of the problems with any milling attachment that uses round stock as 
the vertical support is the tendency of the support to wind up like a
torsion bar when taking a cut.  It is significant enought that the local
Sherline distributor talked about that particular shortcoming during a
recent Q&A session at a club meeting.

That said, I plan to use my surplus SL as a milling attachment (well, maybe
more as a drill press) on my smaller lathe.

Best regards,
Mike Rehmus



From larrys@zk3.dec.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:36 EDT 1995
Article: 17420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Remeiniscing my Machine Shop Dayz PARTE TRE
Date: 2 Oct 1995 15:18:30 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 22
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44ovs6$o32@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
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Reply-To: larrys@zk3.dec.com
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X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-5


In article <44dgmk$l72@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>, jhre@ix.netcom.com (Jim Harvey) writes:

>Go back to the kiosk Fabo, there's a guy at pump 2 wanting hi test.

I used to resent seeing his posts, until I finally realized
one day that I was looking at a parody of a classic satire:
where the hackers of the net once enjoyed the hyberbolic
adventures of BASTARD OPERATOR FROM HELL, now machinists of
the net can enjoy:

THE BASTARD MACHINIST FROM HELL!

read that way, it can be pretty funny.  Not as Fabo intended
it, of course, but funny.  Okay, you need a slightly eccentric
sense of humor, but hey, if you can't machine eccentrics...

-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From steamer@west.net Thu Oct  5 22:55:37 EDT 1995
Article: 17421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 3 Oct 1995 09:26:57 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <44ro8h$ev0@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> <812723858snz@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:17421

	--If you can get access to one, use an ultrasonic cleaner. Works 
great for me...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	--Inventor of
	phone: 	(805) 968-7534	:	the banana sharpener
	FAX:	(805) 562-8928  :	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:55:39 EDT 1995
Article: 17422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!br13jl.demon.co.uk
From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: torque motors / power feed question
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 16:09:22 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <43955774wnr@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
References: <44qpmk$n10@news1.halcyon.com>
Reply-To: andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
X-NNTP-Posting-Host: br13jl.demon.co.uk
X-Broken-Date: Tuesday, Oct 03, 1995 16.09.22
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7

> I recently came into some 60 in/oz 120 VAC reversible "torque motors"
> that appear to free-run at about 300 rpm, and per their name, exhibit
> constant torque from stall through this free-run speed.  Thinking of
> adapting one to be a power X feed for a mill/drill, but I have no idea
> of the useful speed range for the feed (.1" pitch lead screw) nor of
> the torque required to reliably feed it.  Geared down 5:1 to 60 rpm
> this would yield 300 in/oz, that is probably in the ballpark.  What
> feed range is worth accommodating?  Any suggestions on the topic, 
> much appreciated.
> 
> 
Bob,

I sucessfully ran an imported Tiwanese Mill /Drill on CNC using
300 oz/in stepper motors for X & Y, and 150 oz/in on Z.

150 oz/in was not sufficient for table feed when taking a cut.

This was direct coupled to the feed shafts.

-- 
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent. 0181-466-5582



From Mike_schechter@isr.syr.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:40 EDT 1995
Article: 17423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newstand.syr.edu!jelly.isr.syr.edu!Mike_schechter
From: Mike Schechter <Mike_schechter@isr.syr.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: 3 Oct 1995 17:31:48 GMT
Organization: ISR
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44rs24$eqi@newstand.syr.edu>
References: <43mmn1$jq4@watnews2.watson.ibm.com> <44pde3$a2m@amdint.amd.com> <44p1l4$eoi@news.ccit.arizona.edu> <812673608.8710@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:93245 rec.crafts.metalworking:17423 misc.consumers.house:98075

In article <812673608.8710@codesmth.demon.co.uk> Andy Dingley,
dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk writes:
>The extra amount it will hold illustrates a simple scientific
>principle that is worth knowing about. For any given quantity of gas,
>the value (P * V / T) will remain constant. P is the pressure, V the
>volume and T the temperature. 

and what all this means, is that as you increase pressure the temperature
will rise.
if you do it very quickly, it will rise faster than the container holding the
gas will dissipate it..
likewise, when pressure drops quickly, it will get cold..


From dc@freenet.ufl.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:41 EDT 1995
Article: 17424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!dc
From: dc@freenet.ufl.edu (David J. Campbell Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: 12 x 36 Sheldon Lathe, wondeful, full quick change ...
Date: 3 Oct 1995 17:49:27 GMT
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <44rt37$6jv@huron.eel.ufl.edu>
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12 x 36 Sheldon Lathe, full quick change gearbox, four way
power feed (in, out, left, right), eight inch three jaw,
ten inch four jaw, steadyrest, followrest, face plate, misc
small tooling. No taper attachment. Complete with original
factory manual, four way tool post, and original (undamaged)
coolant drip pan.  Also has seperate feed and threading rods
- both do NOT run from the same rod. The headstock end
cabinet looks very much like cast iron, but is quarter inch
thick steel; it encloses the motor and other drive
components. The tailstock end of the lathe is supported by
two cast iron legs, in a sort of "big curvy A" configuration
with flared feet. All is as factory original.

Sheldon Machine Division of National Acme Company has been
making cast iron lathes here in the USA for a long time and
is still in business today, located in Fremont, Ohio
(formerly in Chicago for many years). Lathe now located in
Gainesville, north central Florida, very near Interstate
I-75. Disassembly for transport possible but not recommended
(would involve dismantling spindle & headstock).

year of manufacture: Sept 16, 1952*
Lathe is catalog nmber: TE_1236_P
serial number: TME_17979
actual swing: 13.250 inch over ways,
swings same or better over saddle
Threading: cuts 4 to 224 TPI
Headstock bearings: Timken tapered roller, both ends
headstock throughbore: 1.395 inch
headstock taper: approx 1.620 or bigger at big end, Morse number ?
Spindle Nose Threads: 2 1/4 inch 8 TPI, Right Hand
tailstock taper: Morse, .939 inch at big end or less, Morse number ?
drill chuck: 3/8ths inch Jacobs
faceplate diameter: 8.375 inch
length overall: 68 inches
motor: Baldor brand, 2 hp, 1725 RPM, 3 phase, TEFC
height, overall (top of headstock case): 47.375 inch approx
height, floor to top of ways: 37.625 inch approx
approx weight: 1200 lbs (or over?)

I own a small electric forklift and 2 1/2 ton rollaway floor
jack, and together we can lift this lathe up into your
pickup bed.

* note: this lathe still shows much of the original hand
scraping on its ways, and has always been owned privately,
and never used commercially. So, although it wasn't MADE
recently, appearance and wear-wise, it's the equivalent 
of an almost brand new lathe.

Any questions will be cheerfully answered. I'm open for offers, or will 
trade it for Volkswagen(s), Porsche(s), a good table and/or radial arm saw, 
Chineeses rugs, etc etc, up OR down......

Thank you,

David

--
FULL QUOTEBACKS of all our text, and private replies to my Usenet posts
are both appreciated! -=- My fax number is 904 376-9929 (& faxes incoming
midnight to 7 AM EST work best!) I'm in Gainesville, north central
Florida. Where are you located?  Thank you!                         David







From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:44 EDT 1995
Article: 17425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 18:09:02 GMT
Subject: Re: looking 4 a caliper?
Message-ID: <101260080@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <ming-2509952028480001@port57.ventura.rain.org>
Lines: 13

I guess I just got lucky.  Bought a Mitutoyu electronic caliper a month
ago from from the local Enco retail store, and it's fine.  This one
replaces/supplements a 15-year old Craftsman (Japanese made--possibly
Mitutoyo) that seems to land in the path of a lot of swarf.  I used
to use it solely for reloading, and there wasn't a need to put the
caliper away after every time.  Now that I'm milling and turning,
the electronic caliper seems to be a lot more forgiving, though sometimes
it's easier and faster to use the analog dial.

I've had no trouble with the Mitu slipping at all.  So far.

Pete Brooks



From osan@hansel.mt.att.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:45 EDT 1995
Article: 17426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail
From: osan@hansel.mt.att.com (Anran Vida-Szucs)
Subject: Re: MIG vs. brazing for bike frames
Message-ID: <DFvzo8.GrC@nntpa.cb.att.com>
Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: hansel.mt.att.com
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 19:04:56 GMT
Lines: 50

Joshua_Putnam <Josh@WolfeNET.com> wrote:
>
>While lugs are the most common way of brazing a bike frame, they
>aren't required, and don't actually provide much of the strength
>of the joint.  The main strength of the joint comes from properly
>mitering the intersecting tubes to get very close tolerances.
>Well-mitered joints will be close enough to allow silver brazing
>at full strength, but this takes a lot of work.  

	Depends on what you mean here.  If you are saying that you can 
	accurately miter tubes and achieve the needed strength by brazing
	only the contact surfaces, then you are way wrong.  If you mean
	that by fillet brazing one can achieve the needed strength, then
	you are way right.

	But lugs do indeed contribute significant;y to the strength of
	a frame, provided they are done properly, of course.

>Lugless, fillet-brazed frames are lighter and nearly as strong as
>lugged frames, but much harder to build well both structurally
>and aesthetically.  

	Agreed, however the weight difference can be very small.  Some
	lugged frames have their lugs trimmed way down by piercing and
	filing and sanding.  Of course this also can compromise joint
	strength if the builder goes too far, and some have.

>You can even get custom-configured stems made of fillet brazed
>4130 tubing, and it's hard to think of a joint on a bike that
>receives more stress than a stem quill.  

	Agreed about the high stresses, but I don't think the stems are
	brazed, but rather welded.  I'd be very loathe to use a brazed
	stem regardless of they strength.  Thinking about the results
	of a stem failure give me the willes.

>It's not unusual for
>most of the riders weight to land on one side of a handlebar
>giving 20cm of leverage against the stem, yet a simple mitered
>brazed joint is easily strong enough to handle it.  (All this
>assumes competent brazing, of course.)

	Got any examples of who makes brazed stems?  I've never
	seen nor heard of this.

	-Andy V.
-- 
	"I have a high art; I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me."

			-Archilocus, 650 BCE


From shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:47 EDT 1995
Article: 17427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!altair.krl.caltech.edu!shoppa
From: shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Helium tanks - reuse for other gasses?
Date: 3 Oct 1995 16:59:59 GMT
Organization: Kellogg Radiation Lab, Caltech
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <44rq6f$brg@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
References: <44q7ud$p05@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: altair.krl.caltech.edu

In article <44q7ud$p05@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>,
Dambaugh <acre@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>   Recently I attended an auction and ended up buying 22 used 
>helium tanks that formerly were owned by a balloon company. My
>question is if they can be filled with other gasses, such as 
>argon and c02, for shop use. Is it just a matter of changing the
>valve to the right kind for the gas in question or is it more
>complicated than this?
>
>   Also, 3 of the tanks are marked "non magnetic" and appear
>to be made of stainless. Is there anything special or advantageous
>about these?

They're very advantageous if you happen to have a high-magnetic-field
NMR (aka MRI) system, especially a superconducting one.  Having gas
cylinders flying across the room and sticking to the side of your
electromagnets is not fun, let me guarantee you!

Tim. (shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu)


From gbrown@anise.ee.cornell.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:48 EDT 1995
Article: 17428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!simtel!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet
From: gb27@cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Craftsman power hacksaw
Date: 2 Oct 1995 13:20:04 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
Lines: 6
Sender: gb27@cornell.edu (Verified)
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I just bought an old cast iron craftsman power hacksaw.  I would
like to find an owner's manual or at least a lubrication chart.

Geoffrey Brown
gbrown@ee.cornell.edu



From larrys@zk3.dec.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:49 EDT 1995
Article: 17429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stupid Human Tricks
Date: 2 Oct 1995 15:26:59 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 24
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <44p0c3$aqb@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
References: <42q2v7$fpv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <1995Sep12.162610.15642@sequent.com> <443s7n$9l6@maureen.teleport.com> <DFpABt.Frq@eskimo.com>
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In article <DFpABt.Frq@eskimo.com>, liberty@eskimo.com (Michael Justice) writes:

>Knocks the whole mess over into the sink and opens the water valve to
>flush it all.  (Good move!)  The next sentence in the instructions:

>	"Do so slowly or the solution may overheat and explode."

>Moral:  ALWAYS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY, IN FULL, FIRST. :-)

Correct moral: NEVER ASSUME THE WRITER KNEW WHAT HE WAS TALKING
ABOUT.  Coming from the computer world, I've had more than my
share of troubles trying to sort out users totally mystified by
a "manual" written by someone even more clueless than they were.
Technical writing is an art - you need to _presume_ people will
misinterpret what you write, and try to anticipate such mistakes.
Adding cautions after the fact and failing to re-edit so they
_preceed_ the problem is a classic "failyah...to...commun'cate".

-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:51 EDT 1995
Article: 17430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: congreve@ix.netcom.com (Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cleaning brass clock movements
Date: 2 Oct 1995 16:50:03 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <44p57r$rnm@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-bir-al1-15.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Oct 02  9:50:03 AM PDT 1995

                
I have to disagree with a previous post on this.  The great majority of
skilled repairers of brass clock movements clean in a water-based,
ammonia/oleic acid (ie soapy) solution, followed by a rinse in a fairly
volatile organic solvent.  The largest manufacterer of such solutions
for the clock trade is "L & R" and their products are available in most
cities at a clock/watch repair supply place.  For watches, where a more
expensive (less volume involved) cleaning solution can be used, an
organic cleaner often replaces the water/ammonia solution.

It has been noted among some careful repairers of 18th century clock
movements, which were of cast brass, that if you leave it soaking in
the ammonia/water/soap solution for too long, it can get into micro
cracks in the brass and cause problems.  The answer even with those
very valuable pieces is simply to put gloves on, get in a ventilated
place, and scrub with a soft brush or rags as needed, so the brass
doesn't stay in the ammonia too long, and then immediately go to an
organic rinse which will displace the water.  With 20th century
rolled-brass that surely shouldn't be a problem.

If the plates of the clock have been lacquered, you may well get a
milkiness problem, UNLESS you use gentle mechanical means to get the
lacquer off off in the cleaning stage, and then use the organic solvent
rinse, and then very promptly dry with cloths or a big box of sawdust
(which is the traditional means).  

The wheels of the clock are very rarely found to be laquered, only the
plates.  

The most crucial thing of all is to NEVER try to clean a clock movement
worth more than $5.00 except after complete disassembly, including
taking the spring out of the barrel, if it's in a barrel.  Anything
less is just going to lead to an expensive professional job.

              Alan Heldman


From campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US Thu Oct  5 22:55:53 EDT 1995
Article: 17431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.dacom.co.kr!usenet.seri.re.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!news.sprintlink.net!nntp.sunbelt.net!CAMPBELLJ@fdtc.flo.tec.SC.US
From: campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 2 Oct 1995 15:25:38 GMT
Organization: Florence-Darlington Tech
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <44p09i$so1@ns.sunbelt.net>
References: <44mgaj$e5e@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,<44mv98$j61@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US
NNTP-Posting-Host: fdtc.flo.tec.sc.us

In article <44mv98$j61@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes:
> Little Mig welders ?
>
>It seems like I am saying the same thing about 12 times a year .
>Considering how many people have asked the same question about baby mig
>welders , I am surprised that there isn't more about them in the FAQ.
>
>One more time ......
>The Hobart, Lincoln , and Miller machines all run close to $500 for a
>package . 
>I would stay away from the cheesier brands on principle  allthough some
>members of this newsgroup have bought them and been quite satisfied.
>The problem is that the low end compamies tend to have probems with
>waranty repairs and replacment parts. Where as the larger companies have
>certified repair stations all over the country.
>All these machines have similar max output amps and tend to max out on 1/4
>inch plate steel. For thick sections just preheat to above 400 deg F.
>
>Good luck with your choice.

The Chicago Electric systems also have a clever marketing scheme that
uses non-standard wire diameters that may commit you to using their
systems and materials only.  That's probably why their machines are
priced rock-bottom, especially through Harbour Freight.

For those asking Mig theory questions, are you getting enough info
in your operator's manual (When all else fails)?  A good little book
on Mig is ESAB's "Mig Welding Handbook" revised in 1994.  Only $7.50
and evaluation copies FREE for students/educators/advisors to schools,
or whatever.  ESAB was once Union Carbide/Linde.  They may sell a 
small Mig unit too, but I am not familiar with theirs.  ESAB's snail
mail is:  PO Box 100545  Florence, SC  29501-0545  and voice is;
803-669-4411.  (I do not work for them, but use their mechanized stuff).

Jim Campbell
Florence, SC


From jhooten@abel.math.uga.edu Thu Oct  5 22:55:54 EDT 1995
Article: 17432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!news.cc.emory.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!news
From: jhooten@abel.math.uga.edu (Joe Hooten)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Mailorder Source for Brass/Alumn
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 20:44:52 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <44s7i0$lcd@hobbes.cc.uga.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: abel.math.uga.edu
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I have just finished restoring a 6" Craftsman lathe (about 40+ years
old) and I need addresses for mailorder sources for brass and/or
aluminum stock; round, hex, etc.

If you can help please relpy via e-mail since my news server doesn't
pick up all responses.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and to help me.

--
Joe Hooten
197 Rock Glenn Road
Athens, GA  30606
(706) 546-1642
E-Mail: jhooten@abel.math.uga.edu

















E-Mail: jhooten@moe.coe.uga.edu
        jhoot2@aol.com 



From mstephens@trendar.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:55 EDT 1995
Article: 17433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!news.telalink.net!manicia
From: mstephens@trendar.com (Manicia Stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WHERE DO I START?
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 95 21:19:20 GMT
Organization: Trendar
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I am interested in working with iron to make coffee tables and cool things for 
the house.  I know nothing about it, but I would really like to be able to do 
it.  If anyone knows how I can get information to get started, I would 
appreciate a response.

mstephens@trendar.com


From BarronR@ncr.disa.mil Thu Oct  5 22:55:56 EDT 1995
Article: 17434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.iag.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: BarronR@ncr.disa.mil (Reg Barron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: unimat sl questions
Date: 2 Oct 1995 16:53:43 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <44p5en$lbe@data.interserv.net>
References: <44olki$3nq@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 164.117.162.111
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

>   gb27@cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown) writes:
>  I've been offered a nearly mint unimat sl for $200.  I have a couple
>  of full sized lathes, so I don't need it but, was considering buying
>  it to use as a mill/drill spindle on my full sized lathe.  A couple
>  of questions:
>  
>  -- What size collets, if any, fit this machine ?
>  -- Is it powerful enough for say a 3/16 end mill ?
>  -- I know it is no longer produced, are there  any parts left ?
>  -- Would I be better served to buy a Sherline headstock and motor
>     for use as a mill/drill spindle ?  How about a taig headstock ?
>  
>  Geoffrey Brown  
>>>>
Per above:

- the Unimat takes an odd size collet, but they are available 
and rather expensive.  A collet chuck and new back plate 
is also needed.
- Yes it is powerful enough for a 3/16 or 
even a 1/4 inch end mill.  The problem is not 
really in the headstock, but in the bar type ways,
which do not have a lot of stability in milling (at least
for people used to larger machines)
- What parts are available are mostly at Blue Ridge Machinery.
Campbell Tools has some parts.  I have heard MSC has best 
price on collets.
-  Can't comment on headstock stability 
vs. Taig or Sherline, however the old (Unimat DB)
instruction manual shows the headstock attached to 
larger machines, in much the same way as you are 
envisioning


From Marc_Davis@jf.intel.com Thu Oct  5 22:55:58 EDT 1995
Article: 17435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!simtel!news.kei.com!news.ssd.intel.com!news.jf.intel.com!news
From: Marc_Davis@jf.intel.com (Marc Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: Used parts washer-drum style
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 17:37:15 GMT
Organization: Intel
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <44p80c$dos@news.jf.intel.com>
References: <44ci91$akl@butch.lmsc.lockheed.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mdavis.jf.intel.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.55

I got one of the 20 Gal. washers from one of the dissount tool
outlets.  The pump was frozen up and the switch broke after a week.
The sheet metel was OK.  Hard to say if it was worth the $100 I paid
but the units from Mc Master and Graingers were to expensive.

Marc Davis


Orlando Banos <BANOSOAA@alisa1.lockheed.com> wrote:

>Hi, I'm in the market for a used parts washer, drum style. Preferably in 
>the Central Texas area. Please e-mail me at BANOSOAA@alisa1.lockheed.com 
>or call 512-386-2017.

>Thanks,

>Orlando





From First.M.Last@JPL.NASA.Gov Thu Oct  5 22:55:59 EDT 1995
Article: 17436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!llyene!news
From: First.M.Last@JPL.NASA.Gov (DONALD E. DUNN)
Subject: Re: laser cutting
Message-ID: <1995Oct2.170859.22325@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov>
Sender: news@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov
Organization: JPL
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.2
References: <44fko3$m72@alpha3.iadfw.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 17:08:59 GMT
Lines: 18

In article <44fko3$m72@alpha3.iadfw.net>, donner@airmail.net (Donald K Morris) says:
>
>does anyone have any info or sources for laser cutting of thin metal
>or plastic sheets?  any help would be appreciated.
>
>donner@airmail.net
>


A company that I have been using for many years and have been pleased with 
their quality and responce time is Advanced Technology Co. in Pasadena Ca.
contact Dave Valesquez at 818-449-2696.

Hope this helps you.

bye

Don


From cwb@platinum.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:00 EDT 1995
Article: 17437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!news3.noc.netcom.net!gateway.platinum.com!absun21!cwb
From: cwb@platinum.com (Clark Battle)
Subject: Re: Newbie Tapping Question - Thanks
Message-ID: <DFu1Bv.Kx0@gateway.platinum.com>
Sender: cwb@absun21 (Clark Battle)
Organization: Platinum technology inc.
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 17:45:31 GMT
Lines: 7

Id like to thank everyone who replied to my question.  The advice was
very helpful.  If I screw up now I have no one to blame but myself :)

-- 
hangglidinbassplayininstrumentbuildinprogheadedavantguardiannetsurfinlibertarian
 computerprogrammincomicreadinmusiccomposinkiteflyinvingtsunkungfufreedomjunkie
                          ~~~ cwb@platinum.com ~~~


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:56:02 EDT 1995
Article: 17438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!br13jl.demon.co.uk
From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Acme Tap
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 18:37:41 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <72410363wnr@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
References: <44rl0p$d32@data.interserv.net>
Reply-To: andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
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X-Broken-Date: Tuesday, Oct 03, 1995 18.37.41
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Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)
> 
> Looking for a 1/2"-10 left-hand ACME tap to borrow or rent in the Northern Virginia Metro Area.  Have one hole to tap.  It has been 
> roughed-in on lathe.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Tom Morse  (703) 695-6738 Days
> 
> 
> 
Tom,

Tracey Tools list 1/2" 10 TPI Acme L/H for 18.00 UKP

Address is:
2, Mayors Avenue,
Dartmouth,
South Devon,
TQ6 9NC

ENGLAND

01803-833134
01803-834588 (FAX)

I've always found them VERY helpful.

ps they stock MORSE reamers as well :-)
-- 
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent. 0181-466-5582



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:03 EDT 1995
Article: 17439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Remeiniscing my Machine Shop Dayz PARTE TRE
Message-ID: <1995Oct3.080307.15575@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 Oct 95 08:03:07 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <DFs0nK.44w@cix.compulink.co.uk>, kduffy@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Kevin Duffy") writes:
|>I also teach high school pupils.  The information in this newsgroup is an 
|>excellent resource.  Where can I access old postings for producing our 
|>own database.
|>K Duffy

The archives, as well as the FAQ, are kept on plains.uwyo.edu in the
METAL directory.

Jim


From kimberln@crl.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:05 EDT 1995
Article: 17440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!daily-planet.execpc.com!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl8.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for Sandblasting - which one?
Date: 3 Oct 1995 15:56:38 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <44sf36$rtl@crl8.crl.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl8.crl.com

In article <44pu7e$b6o@panix3.panix.com>, Insect God <sheba@panix.com> wrote:
>Thanks all who have written on this thread so far - it's been highly
>informative.
>
>In other news, here's my QOTD.  I think I'll need a compressor in the next
>year or so, and the highest-priority item it will run is a bead-blasting
>cabinet for objects up to 24" in size.  It seems from reading catalogs that
>I'll need 12-14 cfm @ 100 PSI for a reasonable unit.

Sounds about right, IMHO.

>However, if "SCFM" is the same as CFM, MSC doesn't list any that will do
>that.  Can this be? 

SCFM means cubic feet per minute at 29.92" barometric pressure and 60 
degrees F temperature.  If you are at a different altitude your produced 
volume may be less than stated.  The temperature is less of an effect, 
but the colder the air, the more CFM you get.

>And what's a good brand?  This is one tool that I'd like to buy only once.

Any good industrial  air compressor such as Ingersol Rand, Gardner 
Denver, Sullair, Curtis, Kellogg, and others.  5 hp should do it fine 
but 5 hp in the imports won't hack it at all.

>-Sheba

JerryK


From nstn4700@fox.nstn.ca Thu Oct  5 22:56:07 EDT 1995
Article: 17441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!news
From: nstn4700@fox.nstn.ca (nstn4700)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: unimat sl questions
Date: 3 Oct 1995 23:46:05 GMT
Organization: NSTN Navigator User
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <44shvt$ptg@Owl.nstn.ca>
References: <44olki$3nq@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> <44p5en$lbe@data.interserv.net>
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In article <44p5en$lbe@data.interserv.net>, BarronR@ncr.disa.mil says...
>
>>   gb27@cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown) writes:
>>  I've been offered a nearly mint unimat sl for $200.  I have a couple
>>  of full sized lathes, so I don't need it but, was considering buying
>>  it to use as a mill/drill spindle on my full sized lathe.  A couple
>>  of questions:
>>  
>>  -- What size collets, if any, fit this machine ?
>>  -- Is it powerful enough for say a 3/16 end mill ?
>>  -- I know it is no longer produced, are there  any parts left ?
>>  -- Would I be better served to buy a Sherline headstock and motor
>>     for use as a mill/drill spindle ?  How about a taig headstock ?
>>  
>>  Geoffrey Brown  
>>>>>
>Per above:
>
>- the Unimat takes an odd size collet, but they are available 
>and rather expensive.  A collet chuck and new back plate 
>is also needed.
>- Yes it is powerful enough for a 3/16 or 
>even a 1/4 inch end mill.  The problem is not 
>really in the headstock, but in the bar type ways,
>which do not have a lot of stability in milling (at least
>for people used to larger machines)
>- What parts are available are mostly at Blue Ridge Machinery.
>Campbell Tools has some parts.  I have heard MSC has best 
>price on collets.
>-  Can't comment on headstock stability 
>vs. Taig or Sherline, however the old (Unimat DB)
>instruction manual shows the headstock attached to 
>larger machines, in much the same way as you are 
>envisioning


Mine takes 8mm watchmakers collets

Mark Layne    nstn4700@fox.nstn.ca



From WG=van=Doorn%EC%GD@dienst.vu.nl Thu Oct  5 22:56:08 EDT 1995
Article: 17442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!news.nic.surfnet.nl!newshost.vu.nl!news
From: WG=van=Doorn%EC%GD@dienst.vu.nl (wg van doorn   winfried)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Date: 3 Oct 1995 23:31:07 GMT
Organization: Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <44sh3r$dll@trst.cca.vu.nl>
References: <44nr96$mgm@newsreader.wustl.edu> <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pc051.dienst.vu.nl
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>,
   larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith) wrote:
>
>
>What is the quietest type of engine aside from
>a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
>several projects where it would be nice to motor-
>ize them with something other than electricity,
>but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.


In my experience that would have to be either a steam engine or a stirling 
engine.For both types are model kits available.In the UK there is the stewart 
company which produces unmachined casts for several types of steam engines and 
I think I have read something about a stirling engine in the models-newsgroup.

Good luck,  winfried.


From WG=van=Doorn%EC%GD@dienst.vu.nl Thu Oct  5 22:56:09 EDT 1995
Article: 17443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!news.nic.surfnet.nl!newshost.vu.nl!news
From: WG=van=Doorn%EC%GD@dienst.vu.nl (wg van doorn   winfried)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Date: 3 Oct 1995 23:33:45 GMT
Organization: Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <44sh8p$dll@trst.cca.vu.nl>
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>,
   larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith) wrote:
>
>
>What is the quietest type of engine aside from
>a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
>several projects where it would be nice to motor-
>ize them with something other than electricity,
>but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.

Addition 1: a bit further down in this group are some articles on stirlings!!!
winfried.


From hollen@vigra.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:11 EDT 1995
Article: 17444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.iag.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.sprintlink.net!tncnet.com!vigra.com!hollen
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: diy chrome plating? (faq?)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 15:46:09 GMT
Organization: Vigra, a division of VisiCom Labs, San Diego, CA. 1-800-66VIGRA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <HOLLEN.95Oct2084609@susie.vigra.com>
References: <44a804$pgf@pacific.pacific.net>
	<1995Sep28.120951.3341@bbxrbk.basis.com> <44hhke$p9n@news.sdd.hp.com>
	<1995Oct1.165809.28661@bbxrbk.basis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: calvin.vigra.com
In-Reply-To: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com's message of Sun, 1 Oct 1995 16:58:09 GMT

>>>>> "Russ" == Russ Kepler <russ@bbxrbk.basis.com> writes:

Russ> OK, If you're going to nickle plate something that was chrome
Russ> plated you'll have to strip the old chrome plate first.  That's
Russ> likely to be the nastiest part, typically involving a reverse
Russ> plating process. I've not had to do it but perhaps someone else
Russ> here could comment.  It could be that stripping the parts will
Russ> cost about as much as stripping and replating (or that once in
Russ> the plater's bath it's nothing to replate...)

Stripping chrome is probably the easiest thing you can do.  A couple
of minutes in full strength muriatic acid and it is gone.  Notice I
said "easy" not safe.  There will be a ton of gasoff in the process
and the rising gas bubbles will vaporize the acid and you will get a
mini-fog of acid in the air around the container.  On top of that, the
gas is hydrogen, so it is explosive as well.

dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119       Email: hollen@vigra.com
Senior Software Engineer     Vigra, Inc.  San Diego, California


From BarronR@ncr.disa.mil Thu Oct  5 22:56:12 EDT 1995
Article: 17445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: BarronR@ncr.disa.mil (Reg Barron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Such a Simple Request
Date: 2 Oct 1995 19:43:44 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <44pfdg$mbu@data.interserv.net>
References: <9509291840.AA07811@128.194.179.45>
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>   tmanning@tamu.edu (Timothy Manning) writes:
>  Sometimes it is so hard to find such a simple part.  In this case I've been 
>  unable to find 6-32 x 3/4" carriage screws.  I have the Small Parts catalog 
>  and several others, but they don't have them.  Seems that this size is 
>  somewhere between medium and small.  I only need about six of them.  Any 
>  suggestions?>  
>  Tim Manning
>  College Station, TX
>  USA>  
>>>>

Start with longer ones
and cut them down with a Jewler's
saw.  Put a nut on the part you
want to save, so in case you
mess up the thread a little, the 
nut will tend to restore it when 
removed (could also use a 
6-32 die).  Actually, the fine blade
of the Jewler's saw can fit 
nicely between the threads.
If you want to taper the cut ends,
you can put it in a chuck and 
turn/file.  Some people will use
a nut that has a saw cut thru it to 
hold the screw in the chuck and 
thus protect the threads and eliminate
interference from the screw head.
The split nut will grip tightly. You can 
also use it to hold the part in the vise while 
sawing.



From probus@cnj.digex.net Thu Oct  5 22:56:13 EDT 1995
Article: 17446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news00.sunet.se!sunic!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!news3.digex.net!usenet
From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Engine kits
Date: 4 Oct 1995 01:57:05 GMT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <44splh$7ai@news4.digex.net>
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In article <1995Oct3.004453.18337@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com 
says...
>
>In article <xlch58DFsnxx.18D@netcom.com>,  <xlch58@netcom.com> wrote:
>>Does anyone know of a firm selling casting kits for 1/6 to 1/2 horsepower 
>>sterling engines?

Actually most are less than 100 watts, which is less than what you (and I) are 
looking for.  

>
>That's a pretty big Stirling engine, requiring something like a 10
>inch bore and a 6 inch stroke for that 1/6 horsepower.  You sure that
>you want to use a Stirling engine for your application?
>
>-- 
>Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
>
>                      Please don't feed the Engineers

Or you could build a multicylinder engine (say a 4 power and 4 displacement 
cylinder engine, it'd be very compact and neat as well), if it really takes 
that large of an engine to acheive 1/6 hp. Which I have my doubts.  Is this 
using a compressed gas or just air at atmospheric pressure (both in the "cold" 
sense)?  I would think that using air at atmospheric pressure would require a 
large engine, but using a compressed gas (like hydrogen or helium) I'm sure 
you'd be able to use a much smaller engine to get that kind of horsepower.  

However, I might be wrong.  I'm currently building a 40 something cc dual 
cylinder for experimenting with (run it with atm air, 25psi, 50psi, 75psi, ... 
200psi compressed air).  So hopefully, I'll be better able to do a better job 
judging.  

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net



From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:15 EDT 1995
Article: 17447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 18:25:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Setting boring tool...
Message-ID: <101260079@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!hookup!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <44e62p$23v@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Try setting the bit so that the flat end travels forward--in other words,
you'll be cutting with the outside corner.  I've had good results with
zero rake (set by eye) on the bit, at least while machining 6061 aluminum.
I've been boring steel on the lathe, so no help there.

Pete Brooks



From kataylor@uoguelph.ca Thu Oct  5 22:56:16 EDT 1995
Article: 17448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca!ccshst01.cs.uoguelph.ca!kataylor
From: kataylor@uoguelph.ca (Kim A Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Guelph School of Japanese Sword Arts
Date: 2 Oct 1995 20:22:51 GMT
Organization: University of Guelph
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			FIRST ANNOUNCEMENT

             The Guelph School of Japanese Sword Arts

			July 12-21, 1996
		      University of Guelph

          A variety of multi-day, practical courses on:

	The Craft of the Japanese Sword:
Smithing, polishing, creation of sword fittings

	Martial Arts:
Kendo, Iaido, Kenjutsu

	The Japanese Sword and the Samurai:
History, Culture and Philosophy

For more information contact:

OFFICE OF OPEN LEARNING
159 Johnston Hall
University of Guelph
Guelph, Ontario, Canada N1G 2W1
tel: (519)767-5000
fax: (5190767-0758
internet: info@openlrg.uoguelph.ca



From threeputz@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:21 EDT 1995
Article: 17449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: threeputz@aol.com (Threeputz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Date: 3 Oct 1995 23:49:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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According to the Norton abrasives specification manual re: dressing/honing
sticks and sharpening stones lubrication and maintenance:  ..."scrubbing a
dirty stone with kerosene and a stiff fiber brush should, under normal
circumstances, suffice to clean the surface...badly glazed or loaded
surfaces may require a rub down on coarse abrasive paper then re-soak the
stone". To relap the flat edges..."use coarse waterproof paper laid on a
flat surface. Use water as a lubricant and to aid in the carrying residue
away from the abrading surfaces".

Here is some more information that may be useful:

Synthetic stones are manufacturered with man-made, electric furnace
abrasives. Crystolon and India sharpening stones grain is graded for
consistent particle size.

1. Crystolon stones manufactured from silicon carbide are best suited for
fast cutting       when a fine edge is not required. This stone is gray in
color.

2. India stones manufactured from aluminum oxide used for sharpening high
quality     tool steels whenever keenness of edge is more of a concern.
This stone is brown in     color.

Natural stones are quarried from Ozark quartz (silica) and precision sawn.

1. Soft Arkansas for extra fine finishes after synthetic stoning. This
stone will be off     white in color.

2. Hard Select Arkansas are those stones graded between soft and hard.

3. Hard Arkansas for ultra fine final hone when the sharpest possible
final hone is     required. This stone will be white to dark gray in
color.

Think, be for you add heat to cook out the oils already absorbed in the
stone, it glaze and seal the stone to the point that it may not absorb the
oil in the re-soak step.

Good luck, 
Ken DeMarsh
http:/www.virtual-ventures.com/gfs


From glbwelding@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:22 EDT 1995
Article: 17450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glbwelding@aol.com (GLBWELDING)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cerrocast alloy
Date: 3 Oct 1995 23:50:24 -0400
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

call McMaster -Carr supply 708-833-0300


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:23 EDT 1995
Article: 17451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: Refinishing clock brass
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 03:13:17 GMT
Lines: 30

In article <44pf9e$2n9@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>,
Larry Smith <larrys@zk3.dec.com> wrote:
>
>In article <DFr6o0.G11@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>, 
>kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:
>>  Or, if you're running an antique store, just spray the movements with 
>>gold spray paint. 
> 
>   _____                                    .__    .__   ._._._.
>  /  _  \ _____ ______________  ____   ____ |  |__ |  |__| | | |
> /  /_\  \\__  \\_  __ \_  __ \/ ___\ / ___\|  |  \|  |  \ | | |
>/    |    \/ __ \|  | \/|  | \/ /_/  > /_/  >   Y  \   Y  \|\|\|
>\____|__  (____  /__|   |__|  \___  /\___  /|___|  /___|  /_____
>        \/     \/            /_____//_____/      \/     \/\/\/\/
>
>There is a special place in hell reserved for people who spray-paint
>the insides of clocks and music boxes!
>
>-- 
>Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net

Aarrgghh indeed.  But it happens, doesn't it?  Different sorts of people 
view machinery differently.  Ever see artwork made out of good gears welded 
together in what someone thought was a decorative pattern?  Or conversely, 
watches with fake gears visible through their dials?  As was said in a 
different venue entirely: They just don't get it.

                                     Mark Kinsler  




From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:25 EDT 1995
Article: 17452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 03:27:32 GMT
Lines: 29

In article <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>,
Larry Smith <larrys@zk3.dec.com> wrote:
>
>
>What is the quietest type of engine aside from
>a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
>several projects where it would be nice to motor-
>ize them with something other than electricity,
>but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.

An interesting question.  Probably a fluid turbine, I would think.  Some 
very early phonographs were powered by a water turbine that hooked to the 
kitchen faucet.  In fact, I think the old ad I saw had an office 
dictating machine powered this way.  The waste water went down the drain; 
this was before the days of conservation.  

Random thoughts:

   Any motor or engine or whatever that uses a gas as a working fluid is
likely to hiss or pop.  There are some very low power schemes that use a
flame to expand wheel spokes made of materials with very high
sensitivities to heat, like rubber bands and "memory metals".  How much
noise does a true squirrel-cage motor make, provided one uses a fairly
quiet squirrel who won't chatter while he's running around in there? 
Now I see why electricity is so useful...

                                   Mark Kinsler

                                  out of ideas


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:56:26 EDT 1995
Article: 17453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 22:41:26 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <812673608.8710@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
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Neil Surch <ch916@freenet.carleton.ca> wrote:

>I read somewhere that a 175 tank holds 2 to 3 times the volume of 
>air a 150 PSI tank does with the same capacity (60 gal.).

Well the _volume_ it will hold will be exactly the same, as a gallon
is a volume measure. It will hold a greater _mass_ of air though (and
thus a greater volume of room pressure air).

The extra amount it will hold illustrates a simple scientific
principle that is worth knowing about. For any given quantity of gas,
the value (P * V / T) will remain constant. P is the pressure, V the
volume and T the temperature. 

As it's a simple ratio, this constant relationship will hold for any
units, whether imperial or metric. The temperature does have to be in
a unit like Kelvins though, which has its zero at absolute zero,
rather than at an arbitrary temperature like the freezing point of
water. To convert, just add 273 to the Celsius temperature, i.e 0C =
273K, 17C = 290K, etc.

There's a more complex statement of this relation, of the form 
      PV = nRT
where n is the number of gas molecules, and R is the Boltzmann
constant (the same for all gases, everywhere). Another relation
(Avogadro's Law) shows that the mass of a quantity of gas is equal to
the mass of each molecule, multiplied by the number of molecules. As
the masses of molecules can be simply calculated from the mass of
their constituent atoms, and the masses of these atoms are listed in
standard tables, then it's easy to calculate the volume of a mass of
any gas, at any temperature and pressure, simply by knowing its
chemical formula. Any standard scientific textbook can explain
further, if you want the details.




From jhre@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:28 EDT 1995
Article: 17454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (Jim Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Engine kits
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 1995 21:31:08 GMT
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <44pmd3$hss@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <xlch58DFsnxx.18D@netcom.com> <44nr96$mgm@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>xlch58@netcom.com wrote:
>: Does anyone know of a firm selling casting kits for 1/6 to 1/2 horsepower 
>: sterling engines?

>StIrling Engines!!! Please!

No, No, NO! Stirling Engines....get it right!!!!! Sheesh!



From jangus@nimitz.mcs.kent.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:32 EDT 1995
Article: 17455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!ns.mcs.kent.edu!nimitz.mcs.kent.edu!jangus
From: jangus@nimitz.mcs.kent.edu (John Angus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cerrocast alloy
Date: 4 Oct 1995 04:09:31 GMT
Organization: Kent State University, Dept. of Math and CS
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <44t1dr$avr@ns.mcs.kent.edu>
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Kevin Duffy (kduffy@cix.compulink.co.uk) wrote:
: Could someone please give me the name and telephone number of a supplier 
: of Cerrocast alloy (melts at around 100C).   I have spent many hours 
: trying to locate one in England.

: Many thanks
: K Duffy


I've seen cerrocast that melts at 158 F in catalogs from:

McMaster Carr
MSC
River Gems and Findings

I think all are in the FAQ

John




From vrbass@edge.net Thu Oct  5 22:56:33 EDT 1995
Article: 17456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.edge.net!news
From: Vance Bass <vrbass@edge.net>
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: updated Small-Scale Live Steam FAQ
Date: 4 Oct 1995 03:42:31 GMT
Organization: The Edge
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ip171.nash.edge.net
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.models.railroad:36945 rec.crafts.metalworking:17456

For those of you interested in, or even just curious about, live steam,
this is an invitation to visit the Small-Scale Live Steam FAQ Web page
at <http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/steamfaq.htm>

I have expanded the FAQ greatly, thanks to questions I have received,
and I have added a list of manufacturers and dealers of 1 gauge and
0 gauge live steam equipment, kits, supplies, drawings, books, etc.


Vance Bass	<http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/>
Nashville Garden Railway Society
=====================================
The steam locomotive teaches us that the railway age was a totally
viable and a civilised alternative to the hideous consequences of
basing national economies on road transportation.  -- Colin Garrat


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Thu Oct  5 22:56:34 EDT 1995
Article: 17457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Date: 2 Oct 1995 22:03:24 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <44pnjc$19u@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <gdermer.812667140@ichips.intel.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com


> Also, lard oil doesn't seem to be readily available anymore.  I think I
> saw it listed in an old McMaster-Carr, but has anyone seen it elsewhere?

If you've got any 600W steam cylinder oil handy, that's about 5% lard oil.
Mix in a little Rapid-Tap or other modern goop and you get a pretty handy
cutting oil...


---
Bart Smaalders			OS Performance		SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 336-6322		MS MTV05-44
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:36 EDT 1995
Article: 17458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Remeiniscing my Machine Shop Dayz PARTE TRE
Message-ID: <1995Oct3.003752.18229@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <44eul2$1l2@nntp4.u.washington.edu> <44kijo$rll@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <1995Oct1.171302.28906@bbxrbk.basis.com> <44n302$ql@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 00:37:52 GMT
Lines: 43

In article <44n302$ql@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
Jim Harvey <jhre@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Hey Russ....where's my #$@# lunch money you borrowed?

C'mon - I never ate lunch on campus, it wasn't cool.  So it must'a
been someone else.

>>I'm not sure that we're up to date here - I don't see much discussion
>>on negative rake carbide insert cutting, cermet tooling, etc.  Most of
>>the technology we use wouldn't be out of place in a 1950's shop.
>Well, I have not seen any questions pertaining to that, but we use
>that technology in our shop, so if someone needed a question answered,
>I am sure a reply would be forthcoming. And seeing as you brought it
>up , you have to answer it :^)

Well, I'm slowly but surely getting up to speed, adding a DRO to my
mill, etc.  I have a lot of insert tooling for my lathe, but find that
HSS gives me a better surface finish for the work that I do.  I think
I need to try some of the positive cermet inserts before I make up my
mind, though, as so far all I've used are the ground carbide inserts.

>In a flash of inspriation (after an hour of taking measurements and
>making sketches) I chucked it up in the vise, center punched the
>studs, and drilled them out in the drill press. Sometimes we can't see
>the forest for the trees.

Sometimes all it takes is a start - I've found that I get stuck on the
silliest things, and that all I really need is a start of any kind to
get going.  Fear of breaking something keep me from more projects than
it really should...

>Seriously, Valenite, has wonderful information on all their cutting
>tools which is readily available. If anyone has a problem locating
>resources, just drop me a line.

I should call 'em and ask for their app catalog.  I know that there's
useful stuff in there.

-- Russ
-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:37 EDT 1995
Article: 17459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Sterling Engine kits
Message-ID: <1995Oct3.004453.18337@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <xlch58DFsnxx.18D@netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 00:44:53 GMT
Lines: 12

In article <xlch58DFsnxx.18D@netcom.com>,  <xlch58@netcom.com> wrote:
>Does anyone know of a firm selling casting kits for 1/6 to 1/2 horsepower 
>sterling engines?

That's a pretty big Stirling engine, requiring something like a 10
inch bore and a 6 inch stroke for that 1/6 horsepower.  You sure that
you want to use a Stirling engine for your application?

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:38 EDT 1995
Article: 17460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: unimat sl questions
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 21:06:46 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <ginger.240.001D674C@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <44olki$3nq@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> <44p5en$lbe@data.interserv.net>
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>>   gb27@cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown) writes:
>>  I've been offered a nearly mint unimat sl for $200.  I have a couple
>>  of full sized lathes, so I don't need it but, was considering buying
>>  it to use as a mill/drill spindle on my full sized lathe.  A couple
>>  of questions:
>>  
>>  -- What size collets, if any, fit this machine ?
>>  -- Is it powerful enough for say a 3/16 end mill ?
>>  -- I know it is no longer produced, are there  any parts left ?
>>  -- Would I be better served to buy a Sherline headstock and motor
>>     for use as a mill/drill spindle ?  How about a taig headstock ?
>>  
>>  Geoffrey Brown  
>>>>>
I had a Unimat 3 and sold it to buy a Sherline. The Unimat is just about the 
most gutless tool I ever saw- it would barely turn steel chips about the size 
of steel wool. 

The Sherline has a serious DC motor with solid state control. I cannot stall 
the motor by trying to hold the pulley, even at the slowest speed.

I have used my sherline spindle clamped to my aloris tool post on my 11" 
rockwell as a milling spindle. It worked fine, but I lashed it up with a C 
clamp, so it was a bit shakey. its 'on my list' to make a real attachemnt 
someday,I think this is a very usefull setup.

I believe Sheline will sell just the motor assembly, as a repair part, for 
about what you are looking at for the Unimat.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:39 EDT 1995
Article: 17461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!decwrl!enews.sgi.com!news.corp.sgi.com!rearden.engr.sgi.com!dawson
From: dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com (Dawson Dean)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 3 Oct 1995 03:08:35 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <44q9fj$536@murrow.corp.sgi.com>
References: <44mgaj$e5e@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <44mv98$j61@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rearden.engr.sgi.com

In article <44mv98$j61@newsbf02.news.aol.com> ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes:
> Little Mig welders ?
>
>It seems like I am saying the same thing about 12 times a year .
>Considering how many people have asked the same question about baby mig
>welders , I am surprised that there isn't more about them in the FAQ.
>
>One more time ......
>
>All these machines have similar max output amps and tend to max out on 1/4
>inch plate steel. For thick sections just preheat to above 400 deg F.

Does this mean these machines *can* weld 1/4 inch plate, but
not thicker? Is it a good weld? Or does it mean they don't
weld 1/4 inch well? I'm just curious. I was planning to buy
a more expensive machine for 1/4 inch plate and band but if
I can get by with a smaller one, then that would be great.







From wlbrown@netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:40 EDT 1995
Article: 17462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!simtel!noc.netcom.net!netcom.com!wlbrown
From: wlbrown@netcom.com (William L. Brown Jr.)
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Message-ID: <wlbrownDFuuCM.HuD@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
References: <gdermer.812667140@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 04:12:21 GMT
Lines: 34
Sender: wlbrown@netcom7.netcom.com

In article <gdermer.812667140@ichips.intel.com>,
Greg Dermer <gdermer@ichips.intel.com> wrote:
>20 years or so ago when I worked in a shop full time, we used a mixture
>of white lead and lard oil as a tapping lubricant for steel.  Clearly the
>white lead is no longer (never was??) a good idea from a health point
>of view, but the stuff worked great.  Somewhere I've seen a no-lead white
>lead (!) but can't figure out where it was.  Anybody else know?
>
>Also, lard oil doesn't seem to be readily available anymore.  I think I
>saw it listed in an old McMaster-Carr, but has anyone seen it elsewhere?

More years ago than I like to think about, I took machine shop in high school.
For lubricating dead centers we used a mixture of white lead and lube oil.
Seemed to work fine and AFAIK classmates have not been dropping like flies
as a result of the exposure.  But then hardly any of us ate the stuff, and
the one fellow who did (or said he did) on a dare really didn't need to worry
about the effect on _his_ brain, such as it was.

I don't recall what we used as a lubricant for tapping.  One very popular
lubricant in this neck of the woods for tapping aluminum is something called
"Ban_Turge Hand Cream."  It's kind of a white gooey stuff and it can be thinned
with water.  I've never used it on my hands, but it seems to work great on
taps.  Since the only place I've ever seen it is where I work I don't use it
in my home shop.   Here I use the green "universal" cuttin/tapping/whatever
stuff from Enco.  Seems to work great, but then I'm probably too dumb to
know the difference.

Way back then I studied machine shop type stuff and did electronics for a hobby.Now I do machine shop stuff for a hobby and electronics/computer programming
for a living.  Go figure!  (Proceed and calculate?)

-bill
wlbrown@netcom.com
Concord, CA



From bobp@coho.halcyon.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:41 EDT 1995
Article: 17463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!psgrain!news.sprintlink.net!nwnews.wa.com!news1.halcyon.com!coho!bobp
From: bobp@coho.halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: rockwell mill questions
Date: 4 Oct 1995 06:19:45 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <44t921$hha@news1.halcyon.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coho.halcyon.com

Tomorrow I'll be looking at a Rockwell combination horizontal /
vertical mill.  3/4 hp spindle motor, 6 x 24 table, but I forgot to ask
if it's knee type or column type.  Knee type I think as Z travel was
quoted as 16" but the seller may have confused Y and Z.  Seller is
the son of the former owner who bought it new "long ago" and recently
died.  Condition ostensibly mint.

I recall a recent thread generally praising these machines.  How much
of a limitation is the tiny table however?  What is a fair price
range for the knee type?  Column type?   Parts situation?

thanks,

Bob


From acre@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:42 EDT 1995
Article: 17464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!news.gmi.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: acre@ix.netcom.com (Dambaugh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Helium tanks - reuse for other gasses?
Date: 3 Oct 1995 02:42:21 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <44q7ud$p05@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-pa9-03.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Oct 02  7:42:21 PM PDT 1995

   Recently I attended an auction and ended up buying 22 used 
helium tanks that formerly were owned by a balloon company. My
question is if they can be filled with other gasses, such as 
argon and c02, for shop use. Is it just a matter of changing the
valve to the right kind for the gas in question or is it more
complicated than this?

   Also, 3 of the tanks are marked "non magnetic" and appear
to be made of stainless. Is there anything special or advantageous
about these?

   Thanks in advance for any advice or comments.

 Mark Dambaugh - acre@ix.netcom.com
 Sunnyvale, CA - U.S.A.


From john_olson@powerbbs Thu Oct  5 22:56:43 EDT 1995
Article: 17465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!ns1.win.net!powerbbs!john_olson
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <230@powerbbs>
Reply-To: john_olson@powerbbs (JOHN OLSON)
From: john_olson@powerbbs (JOHN OLSON)
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 04:59:00 GMT
Subject: Re: CUTTING OIL recamend 
Lines: 31


R(>In article <44kidh$ebi@alaska.nwlink.com>, Rich S 
<hr@nwlink.com> 
R(>wrote:
R(>>	I've heard about a product called Boelube. It's a soild 
form 
R(>>(like wax) cutting lubricate that's non-toxic and supposed to 
be 
R(>>non-irritating, which is good for me because the littlest 
wiff of 
R(>>cutting oil smoke makes my throat and lungs feel I've ran 
them 
R(>through 
R(>>a cheese grater. Has anybody in the group used this product? 
Could 
R(>it 
R(>>be used in lathe work?
                                                              
                   
I use a product called Anchor Lube from Anchor Chemical Co.(I'd 
have to look at work for the address.) I haven't tryed it for any 
thing but drilling and tapping. It works very well and NO 
warnings for toxicity, flammability, etc.  I do quite a bit of 
drilling and tapping of stainless steel for 2-56 to 1/2-13 and 
this is as good as I've found. wipes off with no oily residue.
John

John Olson  E-Mail (john_olson@hobbyzone.win.net)
---
 * PowerAccess 1.06 BREAKFAST.COM Halted...Cereal Port Not Responding.




From lamantia@u.washington.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:44 EDT 1995
Article: 17466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news.u.washington.edu!lamantia
From: lamantia@u.washington.edu (Stephen LaMantia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Old Baldor 7" bench grinder
Date: 3 Oct 1995 05:52:18 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 63
Message-ID: <44qj2i$428@nntp4.u.washington.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: saul6.u.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-User: lamantia

Hi all.  This is my first post to this group; I'm usually a regular
over in rec.woodworking.  I had posted this question there, and it
was suggested I try your group.

The flea market was good to me the other day, I think, and I picked up an
old Baldor 1/2 hp 7" grinder for $20.  I don't know why it was so cheap,
since I seem to recall the current Baldor 1/2 hp 7" grinders go for around
$300.  But I could find little wrong with it; aside from a real little bit
of rust, it hums like a top and has near zero vibration.  I figured, for
$20, why not take a chance. 

Can anyone tell me anything about this particular model?  I don't know 
the year it was made, but the spec plate says:

             Type 153C7060, 1/2 hp, 60 cyc, ph 1, 3400 rpm, 
             110 volts, 5.5 amps, No. N156686.

And inside both wheel cover plates, it says BE 1324.

The switch guard is turned upside down, and the original top of the guard,
which is not facing downward, has switch labelings for slow/off/fast, so
I'm assuming this is a two-speed grinder.  (A quick check of the wires
coming off the motor show that there are three wires, so this seems to
confirm the dual-speed nature of the motor.)  However, the current toggle
switch is on/off only, so my guess is a previous owner did a "sudden"
switch replacement, and had only an on/off switch laying around, and put
back the switch guard upside down because with this switch there is no
slow speed possibility.  (Or maybe that's no high-speed; I don't know,
having little experience with grinders.)  My electrician neighbor 
promises to come over Tuesday with his "motor book", whatever that is, to 
be sure of the wiring and then help me get it back to a two-speed 
configuration, if that's possible

Can anyone offer any thoughts on this grinder, be it specific information,
or if you think or don't think I got a good buy.  The thing weighs a ton,
so if nothing else I can sell it for scrap metal, but I'm hoping I've come
away with a nice functional little bench grinder, something my woodworking
budget had me thinking I'd not be able to afford for a while to come.  So
how'd I make out in this gamble? 

And is there a number I can call Baldor at to get, say, manuals or other
information on this machine? 

Any maintenance I can perform on it before putting it to regular use?  (I 
do plan to get a white Norton wheel, and a star and diamond dresser.  Any 
ideas where I can pick up those lighted eye shields?)

Finally, can anyone recommend a good book or two on using such a grinder. 
Up to now, I've done most of my tool sharpening on coarse and fine
whetstones, so I've no real experience with bench grinders.  And aside
>from  sharpening chisels and plane blades, I'm not even sure I'm familiar
with the other uses of a grinder.  Any info would be certainly
appreciated.  Thanks, everyone. 

-- Steve LaMantia
   Seattle, WA









From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Thu Oct  5 22:56:46 EDT 1995
Article: 17467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TIG
Date: 4 Oct 1995 04:50:47 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <44tou7$kb3@nyx.cs.du.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.cs.du.edu


I've been following the discussion on MIG welders.  Along this line, has
anybody any personal experience with the add-on units to adapt a standard
AC-DC welder for TIG.  Are they worth messing with?  Any recommended
brands?  TIA

rhg    galloway@washngtn-amedd.army.milv


From vineet@homer.UUCP Thu Oct  5 22:56:47 EDT 1995
Article: 17468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!news.xnet.com!obdient!homer!vineet
From: vineet@homer.UUCP (Vineet Singh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Can I....
Message-ID: <7030@homer.UUCP>
Date: 3 Oct 95 20:20:29 GMT
Organization: Tailored Software, Inc., Wheaton, IL
Lines: 6

Is there any way that I can make a permanent mold out of copper for pouring
aluminum into? I haven't tried it yet, but was wondering what commonsense aspects am I missing here. I haven't poured anything except sand casting but need to
make multiple copies of my cast, and sand isn't accurate enough. Copper melts around 1900f while the aluminum alloy that I have will melt at 1200~ f. Will the
two stick together, will it be too much heat for the copper?, will I have to preheat the mold? do you have any better solutions or comments? should I try something totlly different? Thank you for all comments (except flames because I'm new at this). 

vineet@homer.chi.il.us


From MorseT@ncr.disa.mil Thu Oct  5 22:56:48 EDT 1995
Article: 17469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: MorseT@ncr.disa.mil    (Tom Morse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: More on MIG Welders
Date: 4 Oct 1995 11:44:12 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <44ts2c$1vg@data.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 164.117.177.101
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

A couple of weeks ago  I was talking to a welder-by-trade with Trane Air Conditioning in Tennessee.
He said they recently tested and evaluated several 110 volt MIG welders for use in the shop and in the field.
The result was that they felt the CENTURY 105/90 was the best all around unit and a good dollar value.
He was so impressed that he bought one for himself (after more than ten years of not having a welder at home).
The CENTURY  105/90 has 100% duty cycle on the 90 amp range and it comes with gas regulator.
It also uses a standard Tweco torch and can purchased for less than $500 from several sources.

Hope this helps,

T.O. Morse
MorseT@ncr.disa.mil



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:49 EDT 1995
Article: 17470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cerrocast alloy
Date: 4 Oct 1995 13:04:26 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <44u0oq$b28@homer.alpha.net>
References: <DFv20B.IwM@cix.compulink.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: iikkii.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Brownells, address in the FAQ.




From cchubb@ida.org Thu Oct  5 22:56:50 EDT 1995
Article: 17471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!proto.ida.org!news
From: cchubb@ida.org (Chris Chubb)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: 4 Oct 1995 13:22:22 GMT
Organization: IDA (Alexandria, VA)
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <44u1qe$f40@dmsoproto.ida.org>
References: <43mmn1$jq4@watnews2.watson.ibm.com> <warden-2909952239270001@warden-ppp.caltch.edu> <decastroDFs4AJ.DKo@netcom.com> <44mrgn$mvh@sanjuan.amtsgi.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cchubb-pc.card.ida.org
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.2
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:93402 rec.crafts.metalworking:17471 misc.consumers.house:98179

Lots of good things being said about air copmpressors here:

But, I have a slightly different question.

I want to buy my first compressor. It needs to be portable,
and it needs to be cheaper than $500. 

I want to do painting, impact wrench, sander, some light sandblasting
with it. Mabye some house painting, etc.

I have been looking and it looks like a 5 HP compressor with a 
20 gallon tank should cover it.

I have looked carefully at the Craftsman and the Campbel-Hausfield (sp?)
compressors. The Craftsman compressor hos a slightly higher airflow
rating, (11 SCFM@90) is oilless, and direct drive. 
The C-H compressor has a slightly lower rating (9.5 SCFM@90PSI)
but boasts as cst iron pump and belt drive.

Some questions that nobody (At the store) seems to be able to 
answer:

Cast Iron:If the pump is not cast iron, what is it, aluminum? Is cast iron
going to last much longer than the alternative? What does it get
me for the higher price.

Direct Drive: Other than compactness, what is the difference between
directr drive and belt drive, other than the belt? Are the belts
quieter or more noisy?

Oilless: My engineering training makes me cast the hairy eyeball on 
something that says 'lubed for life.' Without the oil, I should not
need a seperator if I want to paint, etc. But, a seperator is not
that expensive. Does the oil let the pump last longer, run cooler,
what? Or, does it just make up for the shortcomings of cast iron?

The C-H compressor seems much heavier. I think the tank walls are 
stronger, and the pump is definately heavier. It is also about
15% more expensive, and about 10% less powerful (by the specs).

Is there another widely availible compressor that I should be 
looking for? I only want to spend the money once, for a loooong
time, but I am limited to about $500 including a seperator, drier,
etc. that I need to make it functional.

Respond here, but please cc: by e-mail because my news feed
runs faaaar behind.

Thanx for your attention.

PS: I drain the water from the tank each day (under pressure)
and remove the pressure in the hose, but leave it in the tank
by zeroing the hose pressure dial. (On my Dads compressor)

-- 
Chris Chubb -- cchubb@ida.org (Alexandria, VA)
** Leading a life of noisy desperation. **
My opinions and $0.75 will get you a cup of coffee.



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:51 EDT 1995
Article: 17472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Message-ID: <1995Oct4.114625.22100@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> <812723858snz@bobunitt.demon.co.uk> <44ro8h$ev0@acme.sb.west.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 11:46:25 GMT
X-Original-Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Lines: 10
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:17472

In article <44ro8h$ev0@acme.sb.west.net>, Edward Haas <steamer@west.net> wrote:
>	--If you can get access to one, use an ultrasonic cleaner. Works 
>great for me...

What kind of solvent did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From kaicee@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:52 EDT 1995
Article: 17473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: kaicee@ix.netcom.com (Ken Christianson )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie Tapping Question
Date: 3 Oct 1995 06:41:39 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <44qlv3$23s@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
References: <DFJtJp.CB9@netrix.com> <DFKvn5.6u1@CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-pas15-04.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Oct 02 11:41:39 PM PDT 1995

In <DFKvn5.6u1@CSUFresno.EDU> gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
writes: 
>
>
>
>Why not just pull the drill bit out of the chuck, insert the tap and
>give the drill spindle a few turns by pulling on the drive belt? I've
>been doing this for years with good results. The tap starts on the
>exact axis of the bit. After it's started, loosen the chuck, attach
>tap handle and twist away!
>___________________________________________________________________
>Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
>Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
>     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
>CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010

Yea Greg !  Someone finally came up with the simplest and cheapest
solution that produces a good result.
     You might even consider using a spanner wrench in the hole for the
chuck key (made out of brass so at to not oval the hole) to turn the
thing - that way your fingers won't get caught in the belt, and they
stay cleaner also.  No, no  MAKE the spanner, don't go out and buy one.
No brass?  Soft aluminum works fine too.

                     oooo
                    o    o        
         ooooooooooo    oo
                       
                        ^ Hooks into hole here.

                         


From kduffy@cix.compulink.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:56:53 EDT 1995
Article: 17474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!btnet!news.compulink.co.uk!cix.compulink.co.uk!usenet
From: kduffy@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Kevin Duffy")
Subject: Cerrocast alloy
Message-ID: <DFv20B.IwM@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 06:57:47 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol
Lines: 6

Could someone please give me the name and telephone number of a supplier 
of Cerrocast alloy (melts at around 100C).   I have spent many hours 
trying to locate one in England.

Many thanks
K Duffy


From ernieleim@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:54 EDT 1995
Article: 17475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 3 Oct 1995 03:30:06 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 38
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <44qopu$s48@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <44q9fj$536@murrow.corp.sgi.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com (Dawson Dean) wrote :

>Does this mean these machines *can* weld 1/4 inch plate, but
>not thicker? Is it a good weld? Or does it mean they don't
>weld 1/4 inch well? I'm just curious. I was planning to buy
>a more expensive machine for 1/4 inch plate and band but if
>I can get by with a smaller one, then that would be great.


When welding 1/4 inch plate with a baby MIG it is important to V-grind the
joint since penetration is minimal. If you do a multiple pass weld it is
very strong and allows a high degree of control.
I've welded 1/2 inch plate with my Handler, but I V-ground the weld and
preheated the  metal with a torch. The weld was as good as my Betamig 250
could have done.
It is important when welding heavy steel with a baby MIG to give the
machine some time to cool down between passes. These little machines have
very inefficient transormers and tend to get pretty hot  when welding
heavy material. So do several light passes with a pronounced weave. If you
try to do straight stringer welds with no weave, you will get tiny weak
welds. Surface area of the weld pass is very important since penetration
is minimal on heavy plate.
Best of luck 

@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"For this was a time when men were REAL men, women were REAL women and
small furry creatures from alpha centauri were REAL small furry creatures
>from  alpha centauri." --- Douglas Adams  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From ernieleim@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:55 EDT 1995
Article: 17476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 3 Oct 1995 03:33:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 38
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <44qovn$sb7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <44q9fj$536@murrow.corp.sgi.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com (Dawson Dean) wrote :

>Does this mean these machines *can* weld 1/4 inch plate, but
>not thicker? Is it a good weld? Or does it mean they don't
>weld 1/4 inch well? I'm just curious. I was planning to buy
>a more expensive machine for 1/4 inch plate and band but if
>I can get by with a smaller one, then that would be great.


When welding 1/4 inch plate with a baby MIG it is important to V-grind the
joint since penetration is minimal. If you do a multiple pass weld it is
very strong and allows a high degree of control.
I've welded 1/2 inch plate with my Handler, but I V-ground the weld and
preheated the  metal with a torch. The weld was as good as my Betamig 250
could have done.
It is important when welding heavy steel with a baby MIG to give the
machine some time to cool down between passes. These little machines have
very inefficient transormers and tend to get pretty hot  when welding
heavy material. So do several light passes with a pronounced weave. If you
try to do straight stringer welds with no weave, you will get tiny weak
welds. Surface area of the weld pass is very important since penetration
is minimal on heavy plate.
Best of luck 

@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"For this was a time when men were REAL men, women were REAL women and
small furry creatures from alpha centauri were REAL small furry creatures
>from  alpha centauri." --- Douglas Adams  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From bobp@coho.halcyon.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:56 EDT 1995
Article: 17477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!nwnews.wa.com!news1.halcyon.com!coho!bobp
From: bobp@coho.halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: torque motors / power feed question
Date: 3 Oct 1995 07:45:24 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <44qpmk$n10@news1.halcyon.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coho.halcyon.com

I recently came into some 60 in/oz 120 VAC reversible "torque motors"
that appear to free-run at about 300 rpm, and per their name, exhibit
constant torque from stall through this free-run speed.  Thinking of
adapting one to be a power X feed for a mill/drill, but I have no idea
of the useful speed range for the feed (.1" pitch lead screw) nor of
the torque required to reliably feed it.  Geared down 5:1 to 60 rpm
this would yield 300 in/oz, that is probably in the ballpark.  What
feed range is worth accommodating?  Any suggestions on the topic, 
much appreciated.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu Oct  5 22:56:57 EDT 1995
Article: 17478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.eecs.umich.edu!caen!reeve.research.aa.wl.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!russ
From: russ@bbx.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Removing tool blacking
Message-ID: <DFxJs5.Lz9@bbx.basis.com>
Reply-To: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
Organization: BASIS Int'l, Albuquerque NM USA
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 15:16:52 GMT
Lines: 22

I was recently looking for some 8-32 threaded rod and was unsucessful
at local shops.  Figuring that it *had* to be pretty common I started
checking catalogs, and it seems that no one I can find stocks it.  I
suspect that I *could* find some in a specialty shop, but that the
price would be well in excess of the buck or so per stick I was
planning on paying.

Since it isn't stocked and I don't plan on turning down some round
stock to #8 and running a die on it for a while I'm planning on using
the threaded part of some SHCS.  I find, however, that they've been
treated with some blacking that I'll need to remove before soldering
the thread in place.

Ideas?  I was planning a short dip in hydrochloric acid as that seems
to remove most of the oxide based coatings, and that's likely what
this stuff is.

-- 
Russ Kepler, Basis International Ltd. russ@bbx.basis.com  phone: 505-345-5232

                 Do not throw rocks at this signature



From Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:56:59 EDT 1995
Article: 17479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
From: Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stirling Engines
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 08:21:58 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <n5AB8331C@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
X-NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Offlite 0.09 / Termite Internet for Acorn RISC OS

Brad Ross, Editor of Stirling Machine World, is currently compiling
a directory of the Stirling machine industry.  He might know if
castings for FHP engines were available. -

              Brad Ross.
              Stirling Machine World,
              1823 Hummingbird Court,
              West Richland, WA 99353-9542

              Phone  509 967-5032

Cheers - Mick Collins S.M.E.E.


From mirek@support.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:00 EDT 1995
Article: 17480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.azstarnet.com!news.cais.net!wb3ffv!aplcenmp!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!lavc!lavc!mirek
From: mirek@support.com
Subject: MOTORS, DRIVES AND CONTROLS-REPAIR, NEW
Message-ID: <9510022324.0WW8Y05@support.com>
Organization: L.A. Valley College Public BBS (818)985-7150
X-Mailer: TBBS/PIMP v3.35
Distribution: world
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 95 23:24:58 -0700
Lines: 9


Subject: MOTORS, ELECTRONIC DRIVES AND CONTROL PACKAGES-REPAIR, NEW

We supply and repair many brands of motors, electronic drives and controls 
(Baldor, EG&G, Electrocraft, Inland, SEM, Peerless & Winsmith, Glentek, 
Yaskawa, Servodynamics, Pacific Scientific, Westamp etc.). We offer fast 
turn-around and excellent service.  Please call Potomac Electric at
617-469-0345 or e-mail mirek@support.com for a quote. 
We also do retrofitting and custom product design.


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:01 EDT 1995
Article: 17481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 16:54:20 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <812825584.2639@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
References: <44q9fj$536@murrow.corp.sgi.com> <44qopu$s48@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) wrote:

>When welding 1/4 inch plate with a baby MIG 

I just wouldn't do it with a mig. You _can_ do it, but you need to be
a _good_ mig welder, and even then a boiler inspector would look twice
at a multi pass weld like this. It's far from easy to get a weld like
this to have any real strength -- try it, and cut sections of it
afterwards to see what it was really like.

1/4" steel is thick enough to be an easy weld with a stick welder, and
stick welders are cheap (esp. S/H). 

I've done a lot of mig work; 22 gauge steel, aluminium, stainless, but
I wouldn't use it for 1/4" steel.




From psh@islandnet.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:02 EDT 1995
Article: 17482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.uoregon.edu!sanjuan.amtsgi.bc.ca!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Euphoria Tape...Try it with a Lover!
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 16:43:49 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <44udrf$ptb@sanjuan.amtsgi.bc.ca>
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Estascy@euphoria.com wrote:

Garbage deleted .....

For those of you who would like to reply to this person, his real
email address is  marcus@bud.indirect.com.
Happy flaming .....

Jens



From gwhite@tiac.net Thu Oct  5 22:57:03 EDT 1995
Article: 17483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!news.intelenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!wizard.pn.com!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broken tap-Help!
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 16:20:46 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <44uc8a$pji@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <43p2ct$57k@data.interserv.net> <442jbg$7qn@netnews.upenn.edu> <DFKorH.I9z@uicc.com> <1995Sep28.081057.15473@roper.uwyo.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: gwhite.tiac.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <1995Sep28.081057.15473@roper.uwyo.edu>,
   jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) wrote:
<
<In article <DFKorH.I9z@uicc.com>, neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff) 
writes:
<|>
<|>Is it [kerosene] environmentally safe?
<|>Can you use it indoors?
<|>Is it skin safe?
<
<A section of the FAQ deals with solvent safety (question 36, in part 8)
<
<     Kerosene: (AKA Coal Oil, Range Oil)  Easy to obtain.  This was my
<     father's favorite all-round solvent.  Works well on bicycles 
chains.
<
<      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
<      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
<      Attacks central nervous system
<      Combustible, Flashpoint = 100F, 38C
<      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 14 parts per million (100 
mg/M*3)
<
<Jim

Don't panic about this.  The stuff looks pretty nasty taken out of 
context this way, but it's actually not as bad as it may sound.  For 
example, 'combustible' is the lowest flammability rating the safety 
people use for anything that burns.  14 ppm TWA exposure is not nearly as 
bad as some solvents.  For a comparison with other nasty solvents, check 
out the entire FAQ entry.

Doug White


From gwhite@tiac.net Thu Oct  5 22:57:05 EDT 1995
Article: 17484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pirates!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!news.crd.ge.com!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie Tapping Question
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 16:53:20 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <44ue5b$pji@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <DFJ6wK.Itu@gateway.platinum.com> <44bos0$e0p@andromeda.rutgers.edu>
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<cwb@platinum.com (Clark Battle) writes:
<  ------snip!---
<>  It seems that when I am using my hand tapper
<> eventually the thing gets cockeyed and wont go thrrough the whole way. 
<> Is there a way that I can get the hand tap to tap as straight as my 
drill
<> press?  Ideally Id like a hand powered drill-press-type-thingee that 
would
<> guide the tap in perfectly vertical.  Is there such a beast or is 
there
<> just some obvious technique Im overlooking? 
<    ----snip!-----

The neatest gadget I've found for hand tapping is a tapguide set from 
Brownells (address info in FAQ).  There is a block with a large hole in 
it and a polished bottom with a v-groove for tapping on round stock.  The 
guide comes with a set of sleeves to handle the body diameter of most 
small standard taps.  I haven't busted a tap or tapped crooked for years 
thanks to this.  The drill press techniques are handy if the piece you've 
drilled is all set up, but if you have a bunch of holes to drill and tap, 
changing back and forth is a pain.  The guide also works in odd places 
where you may have had to use a hand drill.

Doug White


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:06 EDT 1995
Article: 17485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!ico.net!news.zeitgeist.net!news.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: PC BOARD LASER PRINTER ETCH RESIST
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 16:54:22 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <812825585.2639@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
References: <448754$kc1@news0.rain.rg.net>
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Dave Stephens <StephensDesign@opendoor.com> wrote:

>printed 
>circuit board resist material you run 
>through your laser printer. 

DynaArt Designs
3535 Stillmeadow Lane
Lancaster
CA, 93536-6624

They also sell etching tanks, transfer presses and stuff.

I bought mine through Mondotronics, the people who sell the Nitinol
memory wire.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?



From bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:07 EDT 1995
Article: 17486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!bobunitt.demon.co.uk
From: Bob Unitt <bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 95 12:37:38 GMT
Organization: nowhere in particular...
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <812723858snz@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
References: <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:17486

In article <83940.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> jhall@nbnet.nb.ca "John W. Hall" writes:

> I have several small slips that have sat in gluey old kerosene for 
> years, and some that have been used dry. Does anyone have any hints on 
> cleaning the gorp out of them? I have gone through all my old 
> reference books and cannot find anything although I know I have read 
> "how to clean old oilstones" many times in the past. 
> 
> 
> I am tempted to boil them in a caustic(lye), but am hesitant about the 
> heat.

One suggestion I've seen is to leave them in a low-heat oven for a couple
of hours - supposed to drive the gunge out of through expansion, I presume.

Caveats:
 1) I haven't tried this myself (let me know if it works...)
 2) Make sure she's out of the house :-)
-- 
Bob Unitt



From jbbatson.ro.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:08 EDT 1995
Article: 17487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.ro.com!news
From: James Batson <jbbatson.ro.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [??] Sharpening damascus knives
Date: 3 Oct 1995 13:44:37 GMT
Organization: RENAISSANCE INTERNET SERVICES
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <44reo5$qbh@central.ro.com>
References: <812118698.16711@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
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To: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
X-URL: news://news/812118698.16711@codesmth.demon.co.uk

Who made the Damascus steel in the blade?  How many layers?  Did the 
edge wire?  If so how big was the wire?




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu Oct  5 22:57:09 EDT 1995
Article: 17488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rockwell mill questions
Date: 4 Oct 1995 18:27:15 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <44ujm3$5ff@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bob Powell (bobp@coho.halcyon.com) wrote:
: Tomorrow I'll be looking at a Rockwell combination horizontal /
: vertical mill.  3/4 hp spindle motor, 6 x 24 table, but I forgot to ask
: if it's knee type or column type.  Knee type I think as Z travel was
: quoted as 16" but the seller may have confused Y and Z.  Seller is
: the son of the former owner who bought it new "long ago" and recently
: died.  Condition ostensibly mint.

: I recall a recent thread generally praising these machines.  How much
: of a limitation is the tiny table however?  What is a fair price
: range for the knee type?  Column type?   Parts situation?

The small table is less of a problem than small table movement.  My
old Brideport is not much bigger than this, but allows about 10 x 20"
movement.  Since it is a combo (H + V) it almost has to be a knee type,
since there is no way to move the horizontal spindle up or down.
I would asume that a combo would never be built as a column type mill.
3/4 Hp is a bit weak for horizontal milling, but should be fine for vertical,
my machine is 1/2 hp.  


From dmasters@jcpenney.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:10 EDT 1995
Article: 17489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!pipeline!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!jcpenney.com!powatana.jcpenney.com!dmasters@jcpenney.com
From: aL Masters <dmasters@jcpenney.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Basic TIG welder?
Date: 4 Oct 1995 16:11:40 GMT
Organization: JCPenney
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <44ubns$7pg@powatana.jcpenney.com>
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i've seen the recent posts about MIG welders...can someone supply info on 
a very basic TIG welder suitable for welding aluminum tubing such as the 
tubing used in bike frames. i am interested in building and repairing 
light-weight wheelchair frames. thanks...aL.



From 102720.2650@CompuServe.COM Thu Oct  5 22:57:11 EDT 1995
Article: 17490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: G.H. Hamilton <102720.2650@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Copper ore
Date: 3 Oct 1995 14:32:36 GMT
Organization: Hamilton Exploration
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <44rhi4$du0$1@mhafn.production.compuserve.com>

I have a large quantity of copper ore with 30 to 35 percent 
copper along with a little chromium and nickel.  Anyone 
interested in purchasing this ore or who knows how we can refine 
it please let me know.

-- 
G.H. Hamilton, email to 3326954@MCIMail.com


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Thu Oct  5 22:57:13 EDT 1995
Article: 17491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!library.ucla.edu!info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!csusac!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Re: how's Harbor Freight Tools?
Message-ID: <DFu5uM.59E@CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
References: <mlang-2909951002560001@mlang.jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 19:23:09 GMT
Lines: 32

In article <mlang-2909951002560001@mlang.jpl.nasa.gov> mlang@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov (M Lang) writes:
>I just got a catalog from Harbor Freight Tools
>and I'm wondering everybody's experience in 
>dealing with this company? 
>
>They carry a lot
>of Central Pneumatics/Central Machinary/Pittsburgh
>tools which are made in China/HongKong/Taiwan
>(that's what they told me). How's the quality
>of these tools, are they just like other chinese
>made junks?
>
>I would appreciate any info/comments. Thanks.
>
> - Minh -


In my experience, you get what you pay for. As a general rule, I have
been disappointed eventually with almost every cheap tool I've bought.
They might work OK at first, or be OK for a 1-shot job or a situation
where it might be destroyed or stolen, but eventually you'll notice
the difference. I no longer buy cheap imported tools for anything I
plan on using more than once.



___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010


From MorseT@ncr.disa.mil Thu Oct  5 22:57:14 EDT 1995
Article: 17492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: MorseT@ncr.disa.mil   (tom Morse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Acme Tap
Date: 3 Oct 1995 15:31:37 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <44rl0p$d32@data.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 164.117.177.101
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Looking for a 1/2"-10 left-hand ACME tap to borrow or rent in the Northern Virginia Metro Area.  Have one hole to tap.  It has been 
roughed-in on lathe.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom Morse  (703) 695-6738 Days



From cknowlto@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:15 EDT 1995
Article: 17493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: cknowlto@ix.netcom.com (Chris Knowlton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP: Knife Pattern Welding
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 20:57:53 GMT
Organization: Ring of Steel Armory
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <44ulhd$h8f@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-oma1-23.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Oct 04 11:58:53 AM PDT 1995
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I am doing some basic pattern welding for knife blades.  I have done
straight layering and cable damascus, but I have a problem.  When I
get the first (second, third... next to last) weld drawn out and I cut
the resulting bar in half for the next weld, I have to grind off the
scale in order to make the next weld work well.  Can someone suggest a
low tech alternative as this removes a good portion of the top layer
especially in the later stages?

Chris Knowlton
Ring of Steel Armory
The Prince of Hearth Home Castle




From preckshot1@llnl.gov Thu Oct  5 22:57:16 EDT 1995
Article: 17494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov!user
From: preckshot1@llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for Sandblasting - which one?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 3 Oct 1995 17:50:26 GMT
Organization: LLNL
Lines: 29
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <preckshot1-031095105326@b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov>
References: <43mmn1$jq4@watnews2.watson.ibm.com> <44otde$7dh@news.bu.edu> <44pu7e$b6o@panix3.panix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov

In article <44pu7e$b6o@panix3.panix.com>, sheba@panix.com (Insect God)
wrote:

>....  I think I'll need a compressor...[for]... bead-blasting
......
> I'll need 12-14 cfm @ 100 PSI for a reasonable unit.

> However, if "SCFM" is the same as CFM, MSC doesn't list any that will do
> that.  Can this be? 

yes.

SCFM = CFM at STP (remember chemistry?).  It's the volumetric pumping rate
referred to intake air at STP.

And yes, MSC (I've never seen their catalog) may not offer a compressor in
the 12-14 cfm range.  This is getting up to industrial size, about where
you'd do better to get a 2-stage.

> And what's a good brand?  This is one tool that I'd like to buy only once.
> 

Good idea.  Look for a Quincy, Puma, or C-H 5 hp 2-stage industrial unit
with a cast iron pump and continuous duty rated motor.  With an 80 gal ASME
tank, these units weigh over 600 lbs, but the reliability and capability is
worth it.  Don't go by brand name, because all of the good names have
prostituted themselves to get market share in the mass market.  If you want
a good machine, go with the specs.  Most of the good names, including the
ones I mentioned, make machines in the industrial range.


From preckshot1@llnl.gov Thu Oct  5 22:57:18 EDT 1995
Article: 17495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov!user
From: preckshot1@llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 3 Oct 1995 17:55:58 GMT
Organization: LLNL
Lines: 7
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <preckshot1-031095110713@b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov>
References: <gdermer.812667140@ichips.intel.com> <44pnjc$19u@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>
NNTP-Posting-Host: b543e1-14010-244.llnl.gov

In article <44pnjc$19u@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>, barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart
Smaalders) wrote:
> 
> 
> > Also, lard oil doesn't seem to be readily available anymore.

With good reason.  It eventually gets rancid.


From mstephens@trendar.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:19 EDT 1995
Article: 17496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.telalink.net!manicia
From: mstephens@trendar.com (Manicia Stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WHERE TO START?
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 95 19:38:01 GMT
Organization: Trendar
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <44s728$6m7@adam.telalink.net>
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I am interested in working with iron.  I want to make things like coffee 
tables, end tables, and just cool things for the house.  I don't know where to 
start.  I have never been exposed to metal working of any kind.  If someone 
knows how I can get some information to get me started, I would appreciate a 
response.

mstephens@trendar.com


From dlg@cray.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:20 EDT 1995
Article: 17497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!timbuk.cray.com!ned.cray.com!dlg
From: dlg@cray.com (David Grensing)
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Message-ID: <1995Oct4.164008.10185@ned.cray.com>
Originator: dlg@banshee
Lines: 34
Nntp-Posting-Host: banshee.cray.com
Reply-To: dlg@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc., Eagan, MN
References: <DFwMxw.7xJ@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Date: 4 Oct 95 16:40:08 CDT

In article 7xJ@boss.cs.ohiou.edu, kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:
=>In article <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>,
=>Larry Smith <larrys@zk3.dec.com> wrote:
=>>
=>
<SNIP>
=>An interesting question.  Probably a fluid turbine, I would think.  Some 
=>very early phonographs were powered by a water turbine that hooked to the 
=>kitchen faucet.  In fact, I think the old ad I saw had an office 
=>dictating machine powered this way.  The waste water went down the drain; 
=>this was before the days of conservation.  
=>

neat idea! I remember an episode of (I think) This Old House
where they were touring sound old mansions in the deep south. 
The ceiling fans were run with water turbines before they had
electricity. 

Dave

=>>
=>>What is the quietest type of engine aside from
=>>a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
=>>several projects where it would be nice to motor-
=>>ize them with something other than electricity,
=>>but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.
=>
=>                                   Mark Kinsler
=>
=>                                  out of ideas






From mrehmus@grayfax.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:21 EDT 1995
Article: 17498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Date: 4 Oct 1995 20:18:10 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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White lead is indeed the stuff that is almost impossible
and perhaps illegal to obtain these days.

A good substitute for it if you are using a dead center
would be a way oil or some other 'sticky' lube.  Even
STP would work.  You want the oil to stick around rather
than drip off.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From rogerm@fc.hp.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:23 EDT 1995
Article: 17499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing clock brass
Date: 4 Oct 1995 21:40:33 GMT
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When I clean clock movements I use a mixture of ammonia and mineral spirits
followed by a bath in mineral spirits. Needless to say, to do a proper job,
you must completely dismantle the movement. After cleaning the movement
in the mineral spirits, you then need to take a toothpick soaked in 
mineral spirits and clean out all of the pivot holes with it. This is
also a good time to check the holes for ware and rebush them as necessary.
	
					Roger Mitchell
					VP and Master Mechanic
					Fort Collins Municipal Railway
					Amateur Radio N0MCR



From kimberln@crl.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:24 EDT 1995
Article: 17500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. brazing for bike frames
Date: 4 Oct 1995 17:20:06 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <44upqi$8ci@news1.svc>, Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:
>While designing a boiler, I had occasion to question the
>strength of a silver-soldered joint.  Looking at the
>container of Silvaloy brand of silver-solder, I discovered 
>no statement about joint strength in the familiar 'psi' 
>rating we see on most welding supplies.
>
>I talked with one of the engineers for Englehardt, the supplier
>of Silvaloy and a major supplier of brazing and silver-soldering 
>supplies about joint strength.
>
>He said that a properly prepared joint is 3X stronger than
>the base metal.  Period, with no definition of the base
>metal type, etc.  This was for silver-solder.  Brazing
>should even be higher, shouldn't it?

You will have to define brazing as opposed to silver-soldering.  This 
always comes up on this newsgroup, of course.  Generally, brazing using 
brazing rods melts both the base metal and the rod and fuses them 
together.  This is not very strong in the case of the base metal being 
copper.  Handy and Harmon, in *The Brazing Book* state that brazing is 
defined as using a filler metal to join two workpieces without melting 
those workpieces.  Brazing filler metal runs in by capillary action.

Silver braze and silver solder mean the same thing to me.  Both use a 
filler rod containing anywhere from about 3% to about 55% silver, with 
the other metal being copper, cadmium, zinc,tin, and sometimes manganese 
or nickel.  Some contain phosphorous and copper only and melt around 1550 F.

If you are making a model boiler, you always want to use a silver/copper 
solder on the joints that see flames.  No zinc, no phosphorous, and this 
is because coal fired boilers normally see a lot of sulfur which can 
displace the phosphorous and eat up the zinc to eventually cause leaks.  
On the outside of the boiler jacket, phos-copper is frequently used 
because of low cost.  The mud ring can be done with phos-copper too but 
it has less fluidity and won't be sucked in by capillary action as easily 
as a silver containing solder.  If you are making a propane fired boiler 
the same is true about the sulfur.  Propane contains methyl mercaptan as 
an oderant at about 15 ppm (watch it draw flies) and this sulfur will 
decompose in the flame  to form SO2/SO3 in a 95/5% mixture.  This is acid 
gas and attacks zinc, copper, and the sulfur will replace phosphorous.  I 
say this knowing that the joint area seeing the acid gas is very small 
and the etch rate is very slow, relatively.  A copper boiler may well 
fail for other reasons such as abrasion 30 years before the joints fail.  
But we build these things to outlive us...don't we???

>
>Best,
>
>Mike Rehmus
>

JerryK


From jhrisoulas@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:25 EDT 1995
Article: 17501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP: Knife Pattern Welding
Date: 4 Oct 1995 20:29:52 -0400
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I read your post about the grinding and material loss due to the
same..>well, you can always sand blast the surface. I have done this and
well, frankly I don't think that it works all that much better. Actually,
I wouldn't worry all that much as to how much material you are loosing,
simply weld up a larger faggot and cut it into thirds.

As for myself, I usually start with a faggot of approx 18" in length and 1
1/4" square of approx 50 layers. I am done in three weld/draw courses.
This really cuts down on material loss, carbon migration and most of all
time. I can weld up several pieces of 1 1/4" x 3/16" by 48 " ladder, hugs
and kisses or star twist in a day....

I really think that the ammount that you are loosing (at least the ammount
that I loose) is rather small compared to the total volume, but then
again, I am not aware as to how you work, whether you are using gas or
coal, a powerhammer or by hand....Too many variables.  I would however,
suggest that you weld up a larger billet and cut into thirds as it save a
whole lot of time.

Yours,



Dr. J.P. Hrisoulas


From john@cwis.siu.edu Thu Oct  5 22:57:26 EDT 1995
Article: 17502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@cwis.siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Etiquette
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 15:55:54 -0500
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They call them double cut off couplers and they are readily available
>from  Hansen as well as a number of other commercial coupling makers.
You probably will NOT be able to get double shut off couplers from your
local hardware store.  They are normally only used for industrial apps.
John


On Sat, 30 Sep 1995, JT wrote:

> Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) wrote:
> 
> : You should hold both parts of the coupling when disconnecting. A lot
> : of the kick comes from the "dead space" inside the coupling still
> : having pressure in it when disconnected. Some brands of coupling have
> : smaller volumes than others. You can even get "instrumentation"
> 
> Maybe I'm missing something here, but all of my couplers only seal
> on the female end.  The "dead space" in all of my stuff is anything 
> outboard of the disconnection.  This could be 50 feet of hose or
> more.  It can be quite a kick if he was really running 175 psi.  I
> personally don't run that much pressure but it still can get away
> from you if you dont hold on tight.
> 
> Unless Andy has couplings that seal on both the male and femal end,
> which I dont believe are commonly available.
> 
> YMMV
> 
> James
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
>                                              jamest@netcom.com
> 
> 


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:27 EDT 1995
Article: 17503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MAKING A FENDER ORNAMENT
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 20:50:49 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 32
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In article <1995Oct4.192824.13077@NCRTimes.stpaul.ncr.com> John Ward <john.ward@stpaulmn.attgis.com> writes:
>From: John Ward <john.ward@stpaulmn.attgis.com>
>Subject: MAKING A FENDER ORNAMENT
>Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 19:28:24 GMT

>        Hi,
>        I want a chromed grizzly bear ornament for the 
>        front fender of my motorcycle.  I would like it to
>        be about ten inches tall, leaning, stepping and 
>        reaching forward attacking with an open mouth.
>        The bears feet should have threaded holes in 
>        them for attaching it to the fender.  This is for a
>        very special show bike with a Chevy 350 V8 that 
>        I built so it has to be top quality.  Does anyone 
>        know of someone that could create this for me, 
>        or failing that, how I should go about making it 
>        myself.
>                Thanks, John  

There was a woman  that exhibited at the WOODENBOAT show this past summer that 
made very neat cast brass or bronze boat ornaments. The basic process is lost 
wax casting- she made the original piece of carved wax, than casts them in 
bronze. This is standard jewelery technique, although your piece is a bit 
bigger thanmost jewelery.

sorry I cant find the name of the person I mentioned, but I think they 
advertise in Woodenboat- often show a boat fitting with a mermaid wrapped 
around it.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:30 EDT 1995
Article: 17504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 23:04:22 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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Greg Dermer <gdermer@ichips.intel.com> wrote:
>20 years or so ago when I worked in a shop full time, we used a mixture
>of white lead and lard oil as a tapping lubricant for steel.  

I presume that "lard oil" is the hard white animal fat that we Brits
call "tallow". I've never heard of white lead being added, but tallow
is still available from electrical wholesalers as a lubricant for
threading steel conduit.

I don't use this stuff for threading, but I do occasionally use it for
plumbing (in the original latin meaning, of soldering lead in the
eutectic phase) . There's a 20 year old pot of it in the workshop, and
I haven't used half of it yet. For threading I just use commercial
goop; Thread-U-Like or somesuch.





From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:31 EDT 1995
Article: 17505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oilstones
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 1995 23:04:24 GMT
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"John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

>I have several small slips that have sat in gluey old kerosene for 
>years, and some that have been used dry. 

To clean them, sit them in a container of white spirit overnight, then
scrub with a nylon nail brush. Any tough stains can be removed with
aerosol carburettor cleaner (spray-on toluene - powerful stuff !).

If they're badly grooved, don't bother cleaning them too much, just
let the flatting process take care of it. I use a "brick stone"
(extremely coarse carborundum, used for smoothing plasterwork) to
knock the lumps off first, then grinding paste on a steel plate to
flatten. Wash off in paraffin (kerosene) afterwards.

I never use oil on my stones, just copious quantities paraffin. I keep
a sandwich box to swill and wash them in, although I store them dry.


To be honest, I rarely use oilstones since I discovered the far
superior waterstones.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?



From powers@cis.ohio-state.edu Thu Oct  5 22:57:32 EDT 1995
Article: 17506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: powers@cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper ore
Date: 3 Oct 1995 18:31:30 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
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>I have a large quantity of copper ore with 30 to 35 percent 
>copper along with a little chromium and nickel.  Anyone 
>interested in purchasing this ore or who knows how we can refine 
>it please let me know.
>G.H. Hamilton, email to 3326954@MCIMail.com

How many tons?  Any Arsenic in it?  what tech level do you want
your refining at? (De Re Metallica, 19th century, modern?)

More Info Please.

Thomas
Columbus, OH


From probus@cnj.digex.net Thu Oct  5 22:57:33 EDT 1995
Article: 17507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!news3.digex.net!usenet
From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Date: 4 Oct 1995 02:16:31 GMT
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In article <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>, larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.comñ says...
>
>
>
>What is the quietest type of engine aside from
>a spring or electric motor?  I am contemplating
>several projects where it would be nice to motor-
>ize them with something other than electricity,
>but which it would be nice not to have to wind up.
>-- 
>Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
>The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
>than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
>and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.

I'd suggest a Stirling or steam engine.  I have a small Stirling engine model 
that is nothing more than a toy, but it's pretty quite, although it vibrates 
like hell.  Steam would be more powerful, but I don't know about how quiet it 
would be, but I'd imagine that'd it be fairly quiet.

At this point in time, I can't think of anything else that would be as quiet or 
more quiet than either of these, aside from an electric motor (which you are 
trying to rule out.)

Hope this helps,
Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net  



From probus@cnj.digex.net Thu Oct  5 22:57:34 EDT 1995
Article: 17508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 4 Oct 1995 02:10:57 GMT
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In article <44qopu$s48@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, ernieleim@aol.com says...
>
>dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com (Dawson Dean) wrote :
>
>>Does this mean these machines *can* weld 1/4 inch plate, but
>>not thicker? Is it a good weld? Or does it mean they don't
>>weld 1/4 inch well? I'm just curious. I was planning to buy
>>a more expensive machine for 1/4 inch plate and band but if
>>I can get by with a smaller one, then that would be great.
>
>
>When welding 1/4 inch plate with a baby MIG it is important to V-grind the
>joint since penetration is minimal. If you do a multiple pass weld it is
>very strong and allows a high degree of control.
>I've welded 1/2 inch plate with my Handler, but I V-ground the weld and
>preheated the  metal with a torch. The weld was as good as my Betamig 250
>could have done.

I agree with everything Ernie said, except that I welded 1/2 plate by 
V-grinding it, but I didn't heat it up first.  I still got excellent 
penetration, I had to cut a small piece off and where I cut it, it looked like 
one solid piece of metal whereas on another piece there was a small, obvious 
gap.  However, if you can afford a larger welder, buy it.  If portability is 
what you want (that's one of the main reasons I bought mine) then buy the 
largest portable MIG welder that the company offers.  For example, Daytona 
sells a Pocket MIG and a Pocket Turbo MIG (slightly larger than the Pocket), I 
went with the Pocket Turbo.  Not sorry I did.  

>It is important when welding heavy steel with a baby MIG to give the
>machine some time to cool down between passes. These little machines have
>very inefficient transormers and tend to get pretty hot  when welding
>heavy material. So do several light passes with a pronounced weave. If you
>try to do straight stringer welds with no weave, you will get tiny weak
>welds. Surface area of the weld pass is very important since penetration
>is minimal on heavy plate.
>Best of luck 
>
Yes, you have to give the welder a break.  In my opinion, if this is a second 
welder, as it is in my case, go ahead and buy the baby MIG.  If this is going 
to be your only welder, then get a bigger one.  I recommend a Lincoln or 
Miller, rather then the Daytona.  Don't get me wrong I like the Daytona, but if 
you need parts, you'd be able to get the parts for a Lincoln or Miller from 
just about any welding supplier, whereas I'd have to get my parts (except the 
wire tips) by mail order.

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net



From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Thu Oct  5 22:57:36 EDT 1995
Article: 17509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!nbt.nbnet.nb.ca!news
From: "John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard Oil & white lead
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 95 22:36:37 -0300
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On Tue, 03 Oct 1995 23:04:22 GMT, 
Andy Dingley  <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk > wrote:

>Greg Dermer <gdermer@ichips.intel.com> wrote:
>>20 years or so ago when I worked in a shop full time, we used a mixture
>>of white lead and lard oil as a tapping lubricant for steel.  
>
>I presume that "lard oil" is the hard white animal fat that we Brits
>call "tallow". I've never heard of white lead being added, but tallow
>is still available from electrical wholesalers as a lubricant for
>threading steel conduit.
>
>I don't use this stuff for threading, but I do occasionally use it for
>plumbing (in the original latin meaning, of soldering lead in the
>eutectic phase) . There's a 20 year old pot of it in the workshop, and
>I haven't used half of it yet. For threading I just use commercial
>goop; Thread-U-Like or somesuch.
>

What we need here is something like a pharmacopaeic (sp?) 
archeologist. Tallow in North America is from sheep or beef and is 
much firmer in texture than lard which is from pigs; waxy rather 
than greasy, but both are solids, not what I would think of as oils 
at all. Is "lard oil" lard with a thinner, like turpentine (white 
spirit?) or kerosene(parafin) added? and is the white lead the same as 
the lead oxide that was used as a pigment in paint until it was 
outlawed, or is it too something else? 

I've often wondered about it since "How to Run a Lathe" says that's 
the stuff that goes in the little hole in the tail stock so you can 
dab it on the center from time to time.

John



From hpbygd@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:37 EDT 1995
Article: 17510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: hpbygd@ix.netcom.com (Gary V. Davis )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG
Date: 5 Oct 1995 05:51:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <44vrok$k9n@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <44tou7$kb3@nyx.cs.du.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-sf6-15.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Oct 04 10:51:16 PM PDT 1995

In <44tou7$kb3@nyx.cs.du.edu> rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
writes: 
>
>
>I've been following the discussion on MIG welders.  Along this line,
has
>anybody any personal experience with the add-on units to adapt a
standard
>AC-DC welder for TIG.  Are they worth messing with?  Any recommended
>brands?  TIA
>
>rhg    galloway@washngtn-amedd.army.milv
    I had an old craftsman arc welder that I put a rectifier and a high
freak unit on and basicially tought myself to weld with it. This was 20
years ago and back then it was no cheap thrill. By the time I got all
the stuff that I neededI proably could of got a cheap tig welder. I
guess it is a question of how much money you are willing to spend.
                        Gary


From john_olson@powerbbs.win.net Thu Oct  5 22:57:38 EDT 1995
Article: 17511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!ns1.win.net!powerbbs.win.net!john_olson
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <238@powerbbs.win.net>
Reply-To: john_olson@powerbbs.win.net (JOHN OLSON)
From: john_olson@powerbbs.win.net (JOHN OLSON)
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 04:59:00 GMT
Subject: Comment                  
Lines: 11


Hi Tom, two things , 1st I find that the delete feature returns
a "not available to you" message when I attempted to use it  also 
2nd The last few days I notice a lot of double messages in the 
metalworking forum including a post of mine from yesterday???
John Olson

John Olson  E-Mail (john_olson@hobbyzone.win.net)
---
 * PowerAccess 1.06 Luxuriantly hand-crafted of only the finest ASCII.




From johns@xs4all.nl Thu Oct  5 22:57:39 EDT 1995
Article: 17512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!EU.net!sun4nl!xs4all!johns
From: johns@xs4all.nl (johns)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Large stirling engine?
Date: 5 Oct 1995 14:56:08 GMT
Organization: Hack-Tic, Networking for the masses
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <450rm8$7ak@news.xs4all.nl>
NNTP-Posting-Host: xs1.xs4all.nl
X-Posted-By: johns@xs1.xs4all.nl

I was interested to read in Janes Defence Weekly 30 sept '95 that 
Singapore is purchasing one Swedish sub. Not that that is interesting, 
but a line in the story was.

This looks like an older Diesel sub. The line is:

"...would not comment on whether or not Kockums Stirling engine 
technology for atmospheric independent propulsion (AIP) would be included..."

Yikes! What an interesting application for a Stirling!

John Stewart
john@amanda.xs4all.nl


From cutler@email.unc.edu Thu Oct  5 22:57:41 EDT 1995
Article: 17513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail
From: Doug Cutler <cutler@email.unc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: A Very _Quiet_ Engine
Date: 5 Oct 1995 16:25:13 GMT
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4510t9$1fab@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>
References: <44nr96$mgm@newsreader.wustl.edu> <44rg5l$jg6@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> <44sqpv$7ai@news4.digex.net>
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X-URL: news:44sqpv$7ai@news4.digex.net

I don't really know about small steam engines but if anybody has seem the huge
mill engine in the South Ken. Science Museum running they will know that the
only noise is the quiet clack-clack of the valve gear!!  Now I know that an
engine of this size isn't under discussion here
 but I think the major noise from any stean engine, especially a slow running
one is the steam exhaust which is at a minimum on a multiple expansion type. 
-- 
   Douglas Cutler                            cutler@email.unc.edu
   Systems Administrator                     University of North Carolina
   Project Isis                              Chapel Hill, NC 27514
   http://www.unc.edu/~cutler/               (919)-962-4291

  "In any field, it is easy to see who the pioneers are -- they are
   the ones lying face down with arrows in their backs."  (Anon.)"



From larrys@zk3.dec.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:42 EDT 1995
Article: 17514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Refinishing clock brass
Date: 5 Oct 1995 15:56:59 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 19
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <450v8b$bnr@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
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Reply-To: larrys@zk3.dec.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: enemax.zk3.dec.com
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-5


In article <DFwMA5.78I@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>, kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:

 >Aarrgghh indeed.  But it happens, doesn't it?

Tell me about it.  I'm trying to get the paint out of _two_
different music boxes right now.

 >Ever see artwork made out of good gears welded 
 >together in what someone thought was a decorative pattern?  Or conversely, 
 >watches with fake gears visible through their dials?  As was said in a 
 >different venue entirely: They just don't get it.

I'll go along with that for sure.
-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only.  Killfile slacker01@aol.com & taustin@ni.net
The attempt to justify an evil deed has perhaps more pernicious consequences
than the evil deed itself. The justification of a past crime is the planting
and cultivation of future crimes. - Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:43 EDT 1995
Article: 17515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!csn!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v040601
From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841)
Subject: Re: rockwell mill questions
Message-ID: <DFzFKv.83H@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <44t921$hha@news1.halcyon.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 15:41:18 GMT
Lines: 32

Bob Powell (bobp@coho.halcyon.com) wrote:
: Tomorrow I'll be looking at a Rockwell combination horizontal /
: vertical mill.  3/4 hp spindle motor, 6 x 24 table, but I forgot to ask

. . .

I recently bought an old (1953) Diamond Tool machine of nearly
identical description.  Horz/Vert mills of that size seem to
be generally in the $1000-$1500 range - somewhat more than a used
Clausing vertical or similar size mill/drill.  My experience so far
is that the machine is excellent for the size.  Quite heavy and
vibration free.  You probably should check out the spindles for collet
size (assuming there are no wear or gross repair issues).  The old
Diamond uses a #9 B&S taper on the horizontal - MSC carries collets
and reamers for that size but you need to be sure the machine either
comes with horizontal spindles or that you have a source for them.
The vertical spindle may have a non-standard collet (the Diamond does)
- that's something to check.  I got quite a few collets with the
Diamond but haven't found a source for additional ones.

The table size is a limitation but assuming that the z-axis is about
15" and that the horizontal spindle can take end mills in a collet,
that may not be a big deal.  Makes setup more difficult but milling
relative large items is possible.  In general, mills are described
by the "cube" in which they work.  These are not big mills and you
need to decide if the work you anticipate will fit in the 3-d space
the mill supports.

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com



From 102522.1546@CompuServe.COM Thu Oct  5 22:57:44 EDT 1995
Article: 17516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Chas Clements <102522.1546@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Web Page with knives for sale
Date: 5 Oct 1995 18:57:35 GMT
Organization: Malabar Fighting Arts Association
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4519qv$1dn$6@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
References: <skiles-3009951759060001@annex1p31.sdsu.edu>

I'm a maker of custom sheathes for fine knives, a Court Qualified 
Expert Witness and Appraiser of such things and a collector 
dealer in fine cutlery. Are such things appropriate for your 
HmPg? I sure hope so, there is a dearth of marketplaces and 
resources on this interest area. Chas Clements' Custom Leather is 
proper snail address-see DBI books

-- 
Chas Clements		|"It's fighting,
1741 Dallas Street	|not folkdancing!"
Aurora CO 80010-2018	|Internet: trock@zeus.sptel.com
			PhoneFax: 303-364-0403


From osan@hansel.mt.att.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:45 EDT 1995
Article: 17517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail
From: osan@hansel.mt.att.com (Anran Vida-Szucs)
Subject: Re: [QUESTION] Sword making book opinion
Message-ID: <DFzq91.77F@nntpa.cb.att.com>
Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: hansel.mt.att.com
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 19:31:49 GMT
Lines: 41

Pedro Delgado <l36587@alfa.ist.utl.pt> wrote:
> 
> 
>  I'm interested in learning how to make japanese swords.

	Not an undertaking to be regarded lightly if you are in
	any way serious.  Just thought you should know.

>  I've heard some people refer to a book called "The craft of the
> Japanese sword" by Leon Kapp (and another japanese author whose 
> name I can't spell).

	Yoshihara Yoshindo.
> 
>  I'd like to know if this is sort of an art book with pictures and
> the history and development of japanese swords throughout time et al,
> or if it is a book with real practical descriptions and methods for
> making real swords.

	I would not term it an art book, but it is certainly not a text
	book on how-to either.  However I will say that a lot of good
	information can be gleaned from this text.  A worthwhile buy
	if your interests lie there.

>  The reason for this is that this is a rather expensive book (about $40)
> and I'd like to have a preety good idea of what it's like before I buy it,
> because I'll have to order it from abroad and therefore, won't have a
> chance to see it before I pay for it !

	$40??!  EGAD, I got mine for something like $27.  I believe the going
	price is around $32.50 or something.  You should be able to do better
	than $40, I should think.

	Anyhow, I think it's worth getting.

	-Andy V.

-- 
	"I have a high art; I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me."

			-Archilocus, 650 BCE


From mlang@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov Thu Oct  5 22:57:50 EDT 1995
Article: 17518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!sec396-news.jpl.nasa.gov!mlang.jpl.nasa.gov!user
From: mlang@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov (M Lang)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Is Craftman impact wrench good?
Date: 5 Oct 1995 20:16:02 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <mlang-0510951308550001@mlang.jpl.nasa.gov>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mlang.jpl.nasa.gov

I need to replace my cheap chinese made impact wrench
with a good and more powerful one. I'm looking at
the following from the Sears catalog:

- Craftman 1/2", 25-400 working torque, $120 (imported)
- Chicago Pneumatic 1/2", 25-290 working torque, $110 (usa)
- IR, max torque 330 (no working torque listed), $80 (imported)

I like the more powerful Craftman but is it as good
as a CP or IR? What's your experience on this?
I would really appreciate any help or comments.

THanks a lot.

 - Minh -

PS: what exactly is the difference between max torque
and working torque? Is it one without load and the other
under load?


From 102522.1546@CompuServe.COM Thu Oct  5 22:57:51 EDT 1995
Article: 17519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Chas Clements <102522.1546@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [??] Sharpening damascus knives
Date: 5 Oct 1995 18:51:37 GMT
Organization: Malabar Fighting Arts Association
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4519fp$1dn$5@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
References: <1995Sep28.015020.17763@bbxrbk.basis.com>

I do a lot of leatherwork for fine custom knives (almost 45 
years). Most of my working knives are fine damascus that I have 
had made over the years. Greatest stuff west of the pecos! some 
tips; polish the face of the blade for less drag through the cut 
than with an acid etched surface, take advantage of the strength 
of damascus and work with a less beefy blade, know your maker and 
steels, differential heat treat, edge packing, etc. Some people 
find that acidwiping the edge will produce the saw tooth that you 
want, depends on what you're commonly cutting. Best Regards. Chas

-- 
Chas Clements		|"It's fighting,
1741 Dallas Street	|not folkdancing!"
Aurora CO 80010-2018	|Internet: trock@zeus.sptel.com
			PhoneFax: 303-364-0403


From campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US Thu Oct  5 22:57:52 EDT 1995
Article: 17520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!news.gmi.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.iag.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.sprintlink.net!nntp.sunbelt.net!CAMPBELLJ@fdtc.flo.tec.SC.US
From: campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mig Welders-
Date: 4 Oct 1995 15:58:06 GMT
Organization: Florence-Darlington Tech
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <44uaue$gq5@ns.sunbelt.net>
References: <44q9fj$536@murrow.corp.sgi.com> <44qopu$s48@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,<44sqfh$7ai@news4.digex.net>
Reply-To: campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US
NNTP-Posting-Host: fdtc.flo.tec.sc.us

In article <44sqfh$7ai@news4.digex.net>, probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus) writes:
>In article <44qopu$s48@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, ernieleim@aol.com says...
>>
>>dawson@rearden.engr.sgi.com (Dawson Dean) wrote :
>>
>>>Does this mean these machines *can* weld 1/4 inch plate, but
>>>not thicker? Is it a good weld? 

>>When welding 1/4 inch plate with a baby MIG it is important to V-grind the
>>joint since penetration is minimal. 

I recommend a Lincoln or 
>Miller, rather then the Daytona.  Don't get me wrong I like the Daytona, but if 
>you need parts, you'd be able to get the parts for a Lincoln or Miller from 
>just about any welding supplier, whereas I'd have to get my parts (except the 
>wire tips) by mail order.
>
>Paul Probus
>probus@cnj.digex.net
>
Home Depot in SC has a Lincoln SPT125 kit for $550 US with manual, video,
shield.  A good buy for medium duyt Mig.  For thicker plate with heavy 
loads, I would not rely on just visually testing a weld.  For safety with
any process and joint I would get a beginning welding book and do a quick
and dirty break or bend test to prove the design and process.  This is 
more important for hobbyists than professionals for safety reasons.

Watch your eyes...watch your ears...and cover your self...Jim

Jim Campbell
Florence-Darlington Tech
Florence, SC 


From lpaj@sashimi.wwa.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:53 EDT 1995
Article: 17521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.wwa.com!not-for-mail
From: lpaj@sashimi.wwa.com (Larry R. Pajakowski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Running three phase motors from single phase 220V
Date: 4 Oct 1995 12:23:11 -0500
Organization: WorldWide Access - Chicago Area Internet Services
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <44uftv$crk@sashimi.wwa.com>
References: <449og5$btr@server.btg.com> <44k8je$83b@news.cc.geneseo.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sashimi.wwa.com
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:17521 rec.woodworking:93644

In article <44k8je$83b@news.cc.geneseo.edu>,
john haynie  <haynie@uno.cc.geneseo.edu> wrote:
>I took a quick look in the Thomas Registry of companies
>
>http://www.thomasregister.com
>
>One nifty thing that I learned from an older book on electrical 
>installations and motors was not mentioned in that thread.  It turns out 
>that you can increase your capacity to generate 3-phase by using any 
>3-ph motor in your shop.  In fact, you don't even have to buy a separate 
>3-ph idler (see below).  

This does seem to work   I had an electrician friend of mine relate a story of
a convent which lost 1 phase.  All worked well until the frugal sisters
turned off the heating sytem with it's 3 PHASE motors for the night.  After
that some lites went out because the motors were no longer 
making the missing phase.

Larry Pajakowski
lpajwwa.com


From kng@pt.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:54 EDT 1995
Article: 17522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!usc!news.service.uci.edu!news.intelenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!in1.uu.net!pipeline!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!ptsys1!kng
From: kng@pt.com (Ken Gravenstede)
Subject: Pure CO2 for shielding gas?
Message-ID: <1995Oct4.130345.16060@pt.com>
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 13:03:45 GMT
Lines: 12

My lincoln lists straight CO2 as a shielding gas for steel (if memory
servers me right).  Is this OK?  What else can I weld with pure CO2 for
shielding?

Thanks

--Ken

-- 
Ken Gravenstede, Performance Technologies Incorporated	kng@pt.com
315 Science Parkway, Rochester, New York 14620            uupsi!ptsys1!kng
(716) 256-0200 X 274


From Josh@WolfeNET.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:55 EDT 1995
Article: 17523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. brazing for bike frames
Date: 5 Oct 1995 20:26:35 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <451f1r$1gm@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <DFzppL.6tH@nntpa.cb.att.com>
Reply-To: Josh@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfe.net

In <DFzppL.6tH@nntpa.cb.att.com> osan@hansel.mt.att.com (Anran Vida-Szucs) writes:

>Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:

>	[of an engineer, Mike scrawls^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hrecalls...]

>>He said that a properly prepared joint is 3X stronger than
>>the base metal.  

>	What does "properly prepared" mean?  Something about
>	the statement as you wrote it does not sound right,
>	or at least incomplete.  Could you elaborate?

Joint tolerances are one important factor, certainly: the
tighter the clearances, the stronger the joint, until you
get to the point the joint is too tight for the brazing
filler to wick into it.
--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:57:56 EDT 1995
Article: 17524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
From: Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Large stirling engine?
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 20:54:31 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <n5C04C4FF@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>
References: <450rm8$7ak@news.xs4all.nl>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
X-NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Offlite 0.09 / Termite Internet for Acorn RISC OS

johns@xs4all.nl (johns) wrote:

> 

> I was interested to read in Janes Defence Weekly 30 sept '95 that 
> Singapore is purchasing one Swedish sub. Not that that is interesting, 
> but a line in the story was.

> This looks like an older Diesel sub. The line is:

> "...would not comment on whether or not Kockums Stirling engine 
> technology for atmospheric independent propulsion (AIP) would be
> included..."

> Yikes! What an interesting application for a Stirling!

 The engine burns Diesel oil and liquid oxygen. There is a video-tape
 showing a conventional sub being cut in half and a complete hull 
 section containing the Stirling module being welded in. Apparently
 it gives near-silent underwater cruising (at reduced speed) and can
 remain submerged for very long periods. 

 If anyone is interested Brad Ross of Stirling Machine World
   Phone 509 967-5032  can probably supply a copy.

  Cheers    Mick Collins
 
  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk


From Don_Schmitz@transarc.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:57 EDT 1995
Article: 17525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.iag.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.sprintlink.net!in2.uu.net!noc.near.net!das-news2.harvard.edu!casaba.srv.cs.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!postman+
From: Don_Schmitz@transarc.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cutting plastic sheet
Date: Thu,  5 Oct 1995 16:35:35 -0400
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
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NNTP-Posting-Host: andrew.cmu.edu

I'm not a religious reader of this group, but don't think this is in
the FAQ:

Is it possible to "mill" of plastic (styrene or similar) sheet with an
appropriate cutter, a (cheap) x-y table, and your basic $50 Taiwanese
drill press?  I'm not looking for precision work - my goal is to turn out
static model car parts - I mostly just need clean straight cuts, and
occasionally accurate duplicate parts.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Don




From john.ward@stpaulmn.attgis.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:58 EDT 1995
Article: 17526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Ward <john.ward@stpaulmn.attgis.com>
Subject: MAKING A FENDER ORNAMENT
Message-ID: <1995Oct4.192824.13077@NCRTimes.stpaul.ncr.com>
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Organization: AT&T GIS, St. Paul
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 19:28:24 GMT
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	Hi,
	I want a chromed grizzly bear ornament for the 
	front fender of my motorcycle.  I would like it to
	be about ten inches tall, leaning, stepping and 
	reaching forward attacking with an open mouth.
	The bears feet should have threaded holes in 
	them for attaching it to the fender.  This is for a
	very special show bike with a Chevy 350 V8 that 
	I built so it has to be	top quality.  Does anyone 
	know of someone that could create this for me, 
	or failing that, how I should go about making it 
	myself.
		Thanks, John  


From shampain@shampain.com Thu Oct  5 22:57:59 EDT 1995
Article: 17527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!shampain.com!shampain
From: shampain@shampain.com (Shon Shampain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Comments on Gingery's Foundry in practice...
Date: 4 Oct 1995 20:45:48 GMT
Organization: Shampain Engineering Inc.
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I have just read Dave Gingery's first two books in the 'Build your own
metal working shop from scrap' series, on the Charcoal Foundry, and the
Lathe.  I am very interested in being able to cast my own parts, but have
a couple questions.

1) Given a suburban setting (i.e. backyard, but neighbors close by), is
this an appropriate activity?  I guess I am concerned most about the surface -
on page 38 the furnace is sitting on the ground (dirt), but with grass
nearby.  At other points in the book he mentions not having anything
flammable (grass? leaves?) nearby.  Also, a lot is made of the fumes.
How would this furnace compare with the exhaust of a car, for example?
Any comments or related experience?

2) I have no reason to doubt the statements of how easy it all really is,
but I also know that experiences differ, is there anyone who has done this
project?

3) I am interested in making the lathe, but I do have a mill/drill at my
disposal.  Has anyone done the lathe with the luxury of having machine tools
available?

Any comments are kindly appreciated.  BTW-the books are great if only for
their insight into problem solving, and working with what you have on hand.

Shon Shampain
shampain@shampain.com


From campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US Thu Oct  5 22:58:01 EDT 1995
Article: 17528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!nntp.sunbelt.net!CAMPBELLJ@fdtc.flo.tec.SC.US
From: campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG
Date: 4 Oct 1995 19:52:38 GMT
Organization: Florence-Darlington Tech
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <44uom6$pbb@ns.sunbelt.net>
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In article <44tou7$kb3@nyx.cs.du.edu>, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) writes:
>
>I've been following the discussion on MIG welders.  Along this line, has
>anybody any personal experience with the add-on units to adapt a standard
>AC-DC welder for TIG.  Are they worth messing with? 

Robert,

What machine are you adding too.  I have used a lot of Tig units added
to the old Lincoln AC-DC machines.  They work well.  Just remember to
get water cooling if you are going to do heavy amperage welding and to
get high frequency if you do any aluminum.

Regards,

Jim


From robinki@cyberoptics.com Thu Oct  5 22:58:02 EDT 1995
Article: 17529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robin Kinkead <robinki@cyberoptics.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buyer's Premiums at Auctions
Date: 4 Oct 1995 21:13:26 GMT
Organization: CyberOptics Corporation
Lines: 14
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References: <43qo27$jtq@data.interserv.net> <43vane$cjt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <43vcf9$blm@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <44pmjf$hss@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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If you haven't run into a "buyer's premium" auction, then you haven't been 
to many auctions.

They are usually either:
 o high-tone-snooty-artsy
 o pushing some kind of specialty stuff like militeria or glass
 o held in a rented hall
 o by someone from out of town

Needless to say, you should WATCH what's going on very carefully.
Likely you will wind up bidding against air at some point.

Robin



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Thu Oct  5 22:58:04 EDT 1995
Article: 17530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pure CO2 for shielding gas?
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 1995 23:15:30 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <812934855.26110@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
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ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) wrote:

>Pure CO2 is OK if you have plenty of power to spare , but 75% argon / 25%
>CO2 burns a lot hotter and gives better welds for only a little more cost.

But they don't serve beer with argon gas   8-)



(I don't know if you do this in the US, but standard practice for
domestic mig welders in the uK is to scrounge half-empty CO2 cylinders
>from  pubs)




From shanahan@persoft.com Thu Oct  5 22:58:06 EDT 1995
Article: 17531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.Edu.TW!news.cc.nctu.edu.tw!news.cis.nctu.edu.tw!128
From: shanahan@persoft.com (Patrick J. Shanahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Euphoria tape...Stick it where the sun don't shine...
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 19:28:06 GMT
Organization: Persoft, Inc.
Lines: 5
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I hope no one falls for this rip-off, "subliminal" tapes are the snake oil of the CyberCulture ! I'm sure with a little old-fashioned
imagination and physical effort you can get get quite euphoric with just your lover. :-)

-PJS-



From ricks94477@aol.com Thu Oct  5 22:58:07 EDT 1995
Article: 17532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ricks94477@aol.com (RickS94477)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leaded steel
Date: 5 Oct 1995 21:47:17 -0400
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I use leaded metal too and considered using it for a project to be used by
the local children's museum.  I called the local health department and
they looked into the risks.  Their conclusion was that the risk due to
handling the metal was essentially zero.  However, if you are sanding it
and generate lead dust, then I would be carefull.  In that state it is
like the lead dust from lead based paint which I know is dangerous.  
If you asked your local health department maybe they can give more
details.
Rick Sparber
r.sparber@att.com


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Thu Oct  5 22:58:08 EDT 1995
Article: 17533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. brazing for bike frames
Date: 4 Oct 1995 20:12:02 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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While designing a boiler, I had occasion to question the
strength of a silver-soldered joint.  Looking at the
container of Silvaloy brand of silver-solder, I discovered 
no statement about joint strength in the familiar 'psi' 
rating we see on most welding supplies.

I talked with one of the engineers for Englehardt, the supplier
of Silvaloy and a major supplier of brazing and silver-soldering 
supplies about joint strength.

He said that a properly prepared joint is 3X stronger than
the base metal.  Period, with no definition of the base
metal type, etc.  This was for silver-solder.  Brazing
should even be higher, shouldn't it?

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From v040601@denab.stortek.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:27 EST 1995
Article: 18855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841)
Subject: Re: an oil pumping bearing
Message-ID: <DHE0qv.13F@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
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References: <87684.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> <473u0h$s4a@crl4.crl.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 23:18:31 GMT
Lines: 35

. . .

: As I remember, the shims on the SB 9" are in layers of about 0.0005.  I 
: can't say what proper adjustment relates to with regards to turning 
: torque required, just that it should not bind, nor get too hot when 
: running.  It should also not be able to jiggle up and down by hand when 

The book for the SB heavy 10 gives specs for how much the spindle should
move up and down when forced with a test bar of a certain length with
a certain force.  Those bearings are of different construction but it
would be a guideline.  If you want, e-mail me and I'll look up the specs.

. . .

: kept in clean, oiled condition can oval the cast iron bearing.  In this 
: case you may have to re-round it somehow.  You would have to do this 
: anyway if you resleeved the headstock with a bronze shell bearing.  But 

Who/how on the line boring - people talk a lot about it but what do you
do about maintaining or re-establishing the alignment of the headstock
to the bed.  I'm working with a friend on a similar situation on a big
lathe (14' long by 24" swing) and our current best idea is to scoot the
headstock down to the middle of the bed (making sure the bed is well
leveled) and temporarily mount a small lathe headstock at the left end,
running a boring bar through the original headstock from the tailstock
to the temporary head.  We then plan to drive the original headstock
across the boring bar to maintain alignment with the bed.  Does this
make any sense?

Thanks,

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com



From rmorris@alaska.net Sun Nov  5 20:38:28 EST 1995
Article: 18856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Victrola springs
Date: 30 Oct 1995 02:15:48 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska, Inc.
Lines: 9
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>   mac <mac@adra.com> writes:

>  Does anyone know . . . where I can buy the flat 
>  spring material so I can wind new one?
>   
>  
>>>>

What size?


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:28 EST 1995
Article: 18857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Small used lathe
Date: 1 Nov 1995 22:16:09 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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North Bay Machinery in Warren Michigan has a very good to excellent 
condition 9"X30" SouthBend Lathe, with the change gears, 3 and 4 jaw 
chuck, collet closer, collets and other tooling. There asking price is 
$1250.00 but they deal, it also has a metal stand if you don't want to 
put the lathe on a bench top,  I ran this lathe a few days ago and it was 
quiet, with very little back lash most all the scraping on the ways is 
still visiable. Tel number of North Bay is 810-759-6014  and they will 
ship but prefer to have the customer  pick up.



From fcdtinman@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:29 EST 1995
Article: 18858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fcdtinman@aol.com (FCDTinman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight Experiences?
Date: 1 Nov 1995 11:15:32 -0500
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Hi -  I am a metal spinner.  I work primarily on old flat belt(converted
to v-belt) spinning lathes.  In the present posting you mention that you
helped a friend with information about electronic speed controls that
don't sacrifice torque.  Would you be willing to share that same info with
me?  There are numerous operations that I perform in which dialing  a
speed would be a major boon!  Thanks a lot
                                            Fred Danforth


From jdelabar@pica.army.mil Sun Nov  5 20:38:30 EST 1995
Article: 18859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jdelabar@pica.army.mil
Subject: indentify new anvil
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I just picked up a anvil at an auction, on my way to trying blacksmithing. It 
weighs 120 lbs, and the only marking i can find is a raised star on one side 
approximately 3 inches across, 5 points. Does this have any significants 
relative to manufacture, age or other info? thanks for any responce. 


From morganh@teleport.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:31 EST 1995
Article: 18860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: morganh@teleport.com (Morgan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reviving the Art of Ancient Coinmaking
Date: 1 Nov 1995 07:09:54 -0800
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In article <475ifd$op4@tabloid.amoco.com>,
Robert Holder <zlme05@mcbuexpl> wrote:
>Ever since I got my first sets of catalogs from the Classical
>Numismatic Galleries and Edward Waddell, and saw
>the amazing variety of ancient greek coinage, I have wondered
>to myself, "How the heck did they get such fine detail with
>the toolmaking technology of the day?"
>...
>The question then becomes this:  where do I go to find out how
>to do this?  I've seen a number of books on ancient coinage, and
>they tend to be somewhat dry and academic, not to mention often
>in German or some other language.  What I need is a how-to book
>on ancient metalworking written for the layman.  

The classic references here are De Re Metallica, the Pirotechnica,
On Divers Arts, and the works by Benvienuto Cellini.  They are all
available in inexpensive translations, and I think Lindsay carries them
all.  Get the Lindsay catalog on metalworking for this information in
"modern" (1900) terms.
>...
>The learning process for this project promises to be long, and I am
>sure that the equipment required will be expensive, so I realize that
>I will probably not mint my first drachm or stater for several
>years, but if anybody has any ideas where I can find information
>for this project, please let me know.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Robert Holder
>
>

Robert -- I would suggest that you contact someone in the SCA (society
for creative anachronism).  Send me your geographical location and I'll
try to get you a local contact.  Here in the Northwest (Oregon,
Washington, BC, Alberta, and Saskatchewan) we have an active moneyer's
guild that produces and strikes period style coins.  The equipment
required is amazingly inexpensive.  We're not talking high tech here!
Most must be made or traded for.  Practice strikes are usually in pewter
with strikes in gold or silver less common due to expense.  This area,
the Kingdom of An Tir, has had several issues of commemerative coins to
mark various reigns and occasions.

I believe that there is activity of a similar nature in other kindoms as
well, and when I find where you live, I can investigate further.  You
may be closer to your first project than you think!

Morgan

-- 
morganh@teleport.COM  


From sbrock Sun Nov  5 20:38:31 EST 1995
Article: 18861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.kreonet.re.kr!usenet.seri.re.kr!news.dacom.co.kr!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ssd.intel.com!ornews.intel.com!news
From: Scott Brock <sbrock>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anodizing/ metalworking FAQ
Date: 2 Nov 1995 01:30:35 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4796vr$s6v@ornews.intel.com>
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dhe1@cornell.edu (Dan Elsberg) wrote:
>Not more than a year ago, I read about anodizing in the FAQ for this
>newsgroup.  Does anyone know of anodizing chemical suppliers, have
>experience with anodizing, or know the location of that FAQ? 

Derek, while this is not the answer to your question, I ran 
across an explanation of the anodizing process on the bikepro
web page under aluminum. the url is: 
http://www.bikepro.com/products/metals/metals.html

Scott.
-- 
Scott Brock
sbrock@td2cad.intel.com
Unix SysAdmin -> Network Engineer -> Mask Designer???



From rhoover@watson.ibm.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:33 EST 1995
Article: 18862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rhoover@shimano.watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Which Grinder (bench or pedestal)
Date: 31 Oct 1995 16:06:46 GMT
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:18862 rec.woodworking:98708


I'd like to buy a bench or pedestal grinder.  I'd love to have
one of the cast iron beasts, but the few that I have found
advertised new cost too much ($1000 and up), and all the ones
that I find at auctions seem to be 3 phase.

Delta makes a 10" hobby/trade 1hp model (23-980) that Tools On Sale
has for $239.

- Is this a quality machine?  Where is it made?  Do you like it?

- Anyone sell this machine for less?

- What other grinders (brands/models) should I look at?

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com


From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Sun Nov  5 20:38:34 EST 1995
Article: 18863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Lathe for sale
Date: 2 Nov 1995 11:46:43 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
Lines: 5
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Just a note here... I wanted to respond to another for sale ad but didn't. 
Phone numbers are important, but when you are selling machines, shipping or 
transportation is a VERY important factor. How about an address, city and 
state would be nice. Thanks...



From Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no Sun Nov  5 20:38:35 EST 1995
Article: 18864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no (Knut Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need help old army toolpostgrinder
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 11:02:26 GMT
Organization: University of Bergen
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <Knut.Pedersen.81.815310146@imp.uib.no>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dronning.im.uib.no

Yesterday I got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old sheldon lathe. 
originaly from a army mobile workshop.
Among the tools was a toolpost grinder marked Electric IDEAL Tools
Type GIUX No. 17057, Shauer Machine Co. 110 Volt AC-DC 7000RPM 1/4 HP.
The rotor is difficult to rotate by hand. Armature resistence 30 Ohm.
I have not connected it to power yet.
Does anyone of you with experience have advise ? Do I have to regrease?
I think it have never been used.
Knut Pedersen
University of Bergen
Norway


From Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Sun Nov  5 20:38:36 EST 1995
Article: 18865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Nickel Plating
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 1995 06:45:25 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 16
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  I've been trying to make a very thin nickel tube by electro
 plating about 0.004 inches of nickel on to a wax former painted
 with conductive paint.
  I succeeded in getting an even wall thickness - but unfortunately
 the nickel was porous.
  Does anyone have any ideas on how to deposit solid
 nickel, please?
  
  
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"
  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun Nov  5 20:38:37 EST 1995
Article: 18866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Stuart Models
Message-ID: <1995Nov1.213327.774@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 21:33:27 GMT
Lines: 16


It seems I posted an incomplete address for Stuart Models.  The correct 
address follows:

Stuart Models
Braye Road,
Vale,
Guernsey,
Channel Islands  
UK     GY3 5XA

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun Nov  5 20:38:38 EST 1995
Article: 18867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Victrola springs
Message-ID: <1995Nov1.213944.861@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <42315.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>  
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 21:39:44 GMT
Lines: 36


Some clock springs are bigger and stronger.  Use a clock spring winder, 
and wear gloves and eye protection.  Note I made my own spring winder 
years ago, with a meccano gear for the two way ratchet.


In a previous article, jhall@nbnet.nb.ca ("John W. Hall") says:

>
>>mac (mac@adra.com) wrote:
>>: I have become the owner of an antique Victrola type record player. The spring which 
>>: drive the turntable has broken, apparently at a stress point.
>>
>>: Does anyone know of a place that has replacement parts or where I can buy the flat 
>>: spring material so I can wind new one?
>
>These are big heavy suckers that you don't want to mess with without 
>great care and perhaps a death wish. _DON"T_ try to take it out of the 
>can until and unless you really understand it and have devised some 
>kind of containment system. Then of course there is the issue of 
>getting it back into the can! Think of working with twenty large, 
>animated, _angry_ razor blades!
>
>There is a newgroup called rec.antiques.radio phono, or something like 
>that you should post your request to. Sorry I have forgotten the 
>exact name. They can steer you to the people who repair these things.
>
>John
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From bitzanis@bnr.ca Sun Nov  5 20:38:38 EST 1995
Article: 18868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tony Bitzanis <bitzanis@bnr.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tesla turbine info?
Date: 1 Nov 1995 22:45:44 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <478tao$njr@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca>
References: <Maken-0910952127570001@ix-sc7-04.ix.netcom.com> <46o79p$bid@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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To: guenther@idu002.ako.dec.com
X-URL: news:46o79p$bid@mrnews.mro.dec.com

Alan Guenther <guenther@idu002.ako.dec.com> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I've been interested in Tesla turbines for many years, but have done
>little about that, other than search out literature on the subject.
>I've found the following articles on the Tesla turbine; they should
>be easily available to US readers:
>
>    Scientific American 30-Sep-1911, pages 296-297.  "The Tesla Steam
>       Turbine" - general article with pictures.
>    Popular Science Sep-1955, pages 230-232. "Cardboard Blower Works
>       Like Tesla's Lost Turbine" - how to make a carboard Tesla turbine.
>    Popular Mechanics Sep-1965, pages 188-193.  "Make a Model Tesla Turbine"-
>       how to make a metal Tesla Turbine with 2.5 inch "blades".
>    U.S. Patent # 1,061,206 - the patent of the Tesla Turbine.
>
>I have a number of other references if anyone's interested.
>
>I tried building the cardboard turbine, but it didn't work - I suspect
>I didn't use the right cardboard; I think mine was to flexible.  I
>intend to try again.
>
>The Tesla turbine sounds so simple, elegant, and efficient, I have
>often wondered why it has not been extensively used.  Can anyone tell
>me/us what's wrong with the Tesla turbine?
>
>                                            thanks, /alan
>

What makes this turbine different? How does it work?

I am currently building a model turbine. It has been designed in Germany
by a RC modeler. Anyone with some basic metal work knowledge/equipment can
make one. It produces 20N of thrust and is about 10cm in diameter.

I have heard of this Tesla turbine before but never did any research. Can
someone elaborate on it.

Thanks,

Tony



From everett7@ix.netcom.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:39 EST 1995
Article: 18869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: everett7@ix.netcom.com (Thomas M. Everett )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any Blacksmiths in Nashville?
Date: 1 Nov 1995 17:48:56 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <478bu8$920@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4782r5$15t@adam.telalink.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Nov 01  9:48:56 AM PST 1995

In <4782r5$15t@adam.telalink.net> mstephens@trendar.com (Manicia
Stephens) writes: 
>
>I live in Nashville, TN and was wondering if there were any
blacksmiths in=
>=20
>town.  I would love to see what goes on in a blacksmith's shop.  I am
very=
>=20
>interested in getting into it myself.  Please respond to
mstephens@trendar.=
>com=20
>if anyone is interested in letting me visit.

Check in you local phone book for farriers (horse shoers) or riding
stables and ask who the local farriers/horse shoers are.  Then give
them a call and see if you can follow them around for a day.  Or go to
a local tack store (look under horses, equestrian, hay and grain, etc.)
and go pick up one of the free "horse trader" magazines.  There are
usually advertisements for horse shoeing schools, anywhere from weekend
seminars to 2-4-8 week courses.  I know that this is a little
specialized as opposed to only blacksmithing, but it is a start...being
>from  Nashville, I'm sure that there are a lot of horse shoers around. 
Find out who does Randy Travis' horses.  Doesn't he have a horse ranch
around there?


From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Sun Nov  5 20:38:40 EST 1995
Article: 18870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SB belt length
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 22:18:44 -0300
Organization: NB*Net
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Message-ID: <89798.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
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To: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu

On 1 Nov 1995 18:43:52 GMT, 
W. Kaiser  <wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu > wrote:

>John W. Hall (jhall@nbnet.nb.ca) wrote:
>> I'm reassembling my 1936 vintage 9" SB lathe and have interference 
>> between the motor and the change gear cover door. I think the flat 
>> belt is too short, but the problem may be the shape of the new motor. 
>> Can somebody tell me what length the belt _should_ be, before I start 
>> grinding bits off the motor?
>
>There may not be a _should be_ length for the belt.  The exact length 
>would depend on how the lathe and motor bracket are set up.  See if you 
>can rearrange things, then get a new belt to fit.  Finding a new belt may 
>be hard, but it's easier than grinding bits off the motor, etc.
>
>--
I guess I didn't make it clear what I was trying to do. According 
to the 1936 catalog, the lathe was shipped, when new, with an 
installation blueprint, that, presumably, specified the distance 
between motor and lathe. I am interested in setting this up as 
authentically as possible, therefore I am curious about the correct 
belt length, as that would then be a guide to the original motor mount 
position. I know I can set it any where I want and cut a belt to fit, 
and odds are I will end up doing that, but I would rather be 
authentic, if possible. Call me crazy...

John



From John.Kelly@msn.fullfeed.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:41 EST 1995
Article: 18871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!pendragon.jsc.nasa.gov!fullfeed!mmhi
From: John.Kelly@msn.fullfeed.com (John Kelly)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reviving the Art of Ancient Coinmaking
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 95 18:35:00 GMT
Organization: FullFeed Madison (email: newsmaster@msn.fullfeed.com)
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In article <476t4v$q93@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) wrote:
>Another candidate for the Lindsay catalog (address in faq)
>
>As to how you do it -- striking the coins is easy. The hard part is making
>the dies. 

There is a type of metal knowen as Kirtsite which has a melting temp in the 
500 F. range.  It is sometimes used in metal production shops for short run 
stamping of items such as silver.  Quite hard to my understanding.  You may 
have to look for it through Jewelry or Machine Shop speciality stores.

A coin could easly be carved or machined into High density carbon such as is 
used in EDM machining (POCO).  This could be pressed into a melted plate of 
Kirtsite and left untill the metal cooled.  Instant (almost) coin die.

Remember, no undercuts in your positive image. 


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:41 EST 1995
Article: 18872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: de-rusting wrought iron?
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>Joseph Scott Stuart  <stuart@ll.mit.edu > wrote:
>>I've inherited from my grandmother an old wrought iron piece.  It is
>>about five feet in diameter, with lots of intricate detail, and it is
>>all covered with a thin coat of rust.  I was going to get some tiny
>>metal brush drill bits and grind it all off, until I realized just how
>>many hours of tedious work this would be.  So, I'm thinking of having
>>it sandblasted.  Is this a good idea?  
>>
>>Also, after all the rust is gone, how can I ensure that it never gets
>>rusty again?  I was planning to cover it with an appropriate primer
>>and paint.  Is there any particular brand or chemical that is best?
>>Some other way to treat it?

That's one heck of a lot of sandblasting.  Take it apart and then take the
parts down to the do-it-yourself car wash and clean it thoroughly with
soap and high-pressure water.  Then give it a couple of coats of a rust
converter paint.  These take rust and convert it to a strange blue-black
coating which won't rust any further.  One brand is Duro's Extend, and
Rust-oleum makes one, too.  They come as sprays or for use with a brush
and work quite well.  You can then give it a coat of whatever sort of
finish seems suitable, perhaps an epoxy enamel. 

                                    Mark Kinsler


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:42 EST 1995
Article: 18873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight Experiences?
Message-ID: <1995Nov2.082834.16921@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 2 Nov 95 08:28:33 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4786f4$3un@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, fcdtinman@aol.com (FCDTinman) writes:
|>Hi -  I am a metal spinner.  I work primarily on old flat belt(converted
|>to v-belt) spinning lathes.  In the present posting you mention that you
|>helped a friend with information about electronic speed controls that
|>don't sacrifice torque.  Would you be willing to share that same info with
|>me?  There are numerous operations that I perform in which dialing  a
|>speed would be a major boon!  Thanks a lot
|>                                            Fred Danforth


Hmm.  I got this via e-mail, without realizing Fred also posted it
(without editing the Subject line to make sense).

There was a discussion on constant-torque drives, relating to spinning,
around April 25 or so of this year.  I suggested to Fred that he pick
up the archive file METAL.95A (or METAL95A.ZIP) via ftp from plains.uwyo.edu
in the METAL directory, and crowbar it into his favorite editor, and search
for the articles.

Jim


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:43 EST 1995
Article: 18874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Daisy shaped gear
Date: 2 Nov 1995 15:16:56 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: Dion Hollenbeck (hollen@vigra.com) wrote:

: : I have a grain mill with two daisy shaped gears that drive the
: : rollers.  They are made out of nylon and I have just found out that he
: : manufacturer of the fmill is out of business.  I have been fortunate
: : to obtain a second set of gears which I plan to use to construct a set
: : of metal gears.  I have a bandsaw, high speed die grinder and hand
: : tools at my disposal.  I could use some suggestions for references on
: : gear making using only my limited tool set or some gear maker who

: This is really a job for a milling machine and a rotary table.  I don't
: know what the required precision of these gears are, but it is unlikely
: you will be able to make even standard (round) gears with hand tools.
: You might be able to make a mold of the nylon gears and use that to
: have steel gears cast.  You might be able to hand finish the casting with
: the hand tools quite well.  Brass might also be a good material for casting.

Keep in mind that nylon was probably used for its self-lubricating properties
and perhaps because it could be inexpensively injection molded.

I'd pick a soft material like brass or perhaps aluminum, and use a combination
of sawing and filing to make clones. Or, as the previous poster suggests, make
a mold and cast duplicates. I'd suggest urethane casting compiunds for both
mold and gears. A friend uses this technique for low volume cases and
other componants for his custom engineering work.

--mike


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:44 EST 1995
Article: 18875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Was: WTB Small used lathe, Now: used machinery
Date: 2 Nov 1995 16:09:07 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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In article <478rj9$11q8@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz) writes:
>North Bay Machinery in Warren Michigan has a very good to excellent 
>condition 9"X30" SouthBend Lathe, with the change gears, 3 and 4 jaw 
>chuck, collet closer, collets and other tooling. There asking price is 
>$1250.00 but they deal, it also has a metal stand if you don't want to 
>put the lathe on a bench top,  I ran this lathe a few days ago and it was 
>quiet, with very little back lash most all the scraping on the ways is 
>still visiable. Tel number of North Bay is 810-759-6014  and they will 
>ship but prefer to have the customer  pick up.
>

Yeah, I walked through that place last Saturday.  I must say it was
one of the cleanest, most organized used machinery dealers I have
ever walked through.  Most of the time, I can't even recognize a place
as a used machinery shop unless the roof leaks and there's a big
puddle of water on the floor somewhere.

You didn't mention the Chinese lathe that they're dealers for.  The
brand is Hercules and the one on display was a 14x40, I think.  Three
& four jaw chucks, steady & follow rest, coolant, inch/metric etc.
etc.  All for around $7000.  I was asking the owner about it and he
said that particular company has been making lathes for 50 years and
the quality is pretty good.  Still, you have to wonder, the factory
selling price must be around 3500 before shipping and the dealer
margins.  I think I'll stick to American iron.  I'd be interested
in hearing about any experiences with this brand, though.

If you look hard, you can get better deals than going through a dealer.
I picked up a DoAll 16" vertical the other day for $900 (ok, it was a
'57, but it's complete, variable speed and it does have the blade welder).  
I think NorthBay had an 18" Grob going for around $2600.  The machinery
liquidator I bought the saw from was telling me a story how they got
a bunch (4, I think) late model Bridgeports from a shop for around
$2200 apiece, even though they had to take a couple of horizontal
mills as well.  And the shop was happy they did it!  Anyone want
a nice KT horizontal mill for $400?  I think they moved the Bridgeports
already, but the others are gathering dust before eventually going to the
scrap yards.

Oh, BTW, I saw a North Bay truck at the liquidator's warehouse so I have
an idea of where he gets some of his inventory.

The moral of the story is to get to know as many people in the
machining/machinery business as you can and be patient.  Eventually
that gem will come across your way; you just have to be ready to
grab it, maybe on very short notice.  I've been looking for a bandsaw
on and off for most of a year and when I found this one on Tuesday
I had 2 days to get it out of the warehouse.  I've also met some very
interesting people; everyone's got a good story or two to relate.  Most
people are pretty friendly and receptive when I tell them I'm a hobbiest
and I do this stuff for fun.

I know this is off topic, but moving the bandsaw was a snap.  They
dropped it onto the bed of my pickup with a forklift (and it was
probably a little over the load limit; thank goodness for safety
margins) and once I got it home, I had my friendly local towing
service come over.  They were able to use the boom to pick it out
of the bed and move it up my driveway right to the garage.  The
driver and I were able to swing it under the garage door as it
was being lowered.  The whole deal took maybe 20 minutes and was
painless (not to mention injury-free).  The $40 price tag was
worth every cent.
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:45 EST 1995
Article: 18876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 20:40:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Need source: fine mesh screen
Message-ID: <101260101@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <DHDqss.8s@CSUFresno.EDU>
Lines: 7

Another source for fine (and very fine) mesh S.S. screen is a silkscreening
outfit.  Especially if you only need a small amount, you can get scrap
pieces that might have a crease in them.  Useless for silk screening, but
OK for many other purposes.

Pete Brooks



From larrys@zk3.dec.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:45 EST 1995
Article: 18877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!hookup!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cfa.org!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC ARTICLES
Date: 2 Nov 1995 18:07:21 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <47b1cp$oeo@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
References: <dmauch.114.30910401@dmauch.seanet.com> <472mi0$q45@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: larrys@zk3.dec.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: enemax.zk3.dec.com
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-5


In article <472mi0$q45@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, mkdinneen@aol.com (MKDinneen) writes:

>>Thanks. I appreciate the comments. So what are we going to build next? :)

>Bigger, more power?

Thank you, Tim Allen.  AR AR AR AR ARRRRRRRRRRRRR!
-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only. Killfile slacker5@ix.netcom.com, taustin@ni.net
  The attempt to justify an evil deed has  perhaps more pernicious consequences
  than the evil deed itself.  The justification of a past crime is the planting
  and cultivation of future crimes. -- Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:46 EST 1995
Article: 18878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!pravda.aa.msen.com!news1.best.com!agis!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!sun!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: horseshoes
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <DHE7JG.AJu@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
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Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <46v7qk$57j@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 01:45:16 GMT
Lines: 32

In article <46v7qk$57j@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>,
Thomas M. Everett  <everett7@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I have been making some articles using horseshoes (used ones from real
>horses), and have been cleaning them by using a wire wheel on a
>grinder.  I would like a more efficient way to clean them, and was
>curious if anyone had any ideas.  I have though about using a
>sand-blasting cabinet, but I'm not sure that would be any faster than
>the wire wheel.  Does anyone know of any chemicals that I could dip
>them in to remove rust and other debris?  Which brings me to another
>question.  After cleaning them, I tried a couple of finishes to keep
>them from rusting, but I would like to keep the natural look of the
>steel after it has been brushed with the wheel.  Any ideas????

Sand-blast the horseshoes first.  It'll save an immense amount of time
getting rid of the rust.  You'll be horrified, though, because they'll
look like they've been painted with dull gray paint.  But if you give 
them a light buffing on your wire wheel, you'll find that they polish up 
quite nicely.  I've done this with rr spikes.  I had a bunch of them 
sandblasted at the local tombstone place across from the cemetery.   
  The finish is tougher to deal with, because most varnishes will tend to 
blacken the steel.  I haven't tried it, but others on this group have 
recommended the "clear coat" finish that's used over auto paint.  I've 
seen this done on a show car's gas tank.  I thought the thing was 
stainless steel.  Apparently clear coat is a bit like super glue.  I 
gotta try it sometime.  
  I think you're also supposed to keep the closed end of the horseshoe 
down so that the luck doesn't run out of it.

                                  Mark Kinsler 

                               



From zoron@nwcs.org Sun Nov  5 20:38:47 EST 1995
Article: 18879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!pravda.aa.msen.com!news1.best.com!agis!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!psgrain!nntp.teleport.com!ip-pdx03-13
From: zoron@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Casting bronze & silver
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 95 16:05:03 GMT
Organization: Zoron Research, Inc.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <47aq7f$b7k_001@ip-pdx03-13.teleport.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip-pdx03-13.teleport.com
Keywords: bronze silver cast casting metal screw
To: all
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3

I am searching for a metal caster who can help me with a project. I need to 
cast metal bottle caps, of the screw-top configuration commonly found on 
cosmetic bottles (perfume bottles and such.) These caps have a screw-thread 
configuration of 13-415 and 13-425, where the 13 is the diameter, in mm, 
and the -415 means it is a short cap, only tall enough to cover the 
threads, while -425 is a taller cap, with dead space below the threads 
intended to keep debris away from the mouth of the bottle (so I have read.) 
Other sizes would be 15mm and possibly larger.

I can send samples of the caps that I want to have cast to anyone who is 
interested. Eventually, I would like to hire someone to set me up in my 
own shop for vacuum casting of these items, but right now I am pressed for 
time and am quite willing to pay any reasonable amount to have someone cast 
them for me.

Please let me know if you are interested or if you need more information. I 
originally tried casting these in pewter, which is within my capabilities, 
but pewter is too soft - it does not wear gracefully. Lost-wax casting 
seems to be the way to go, but I am open to suggestions. If possible, a 
provision should be included so that the liner can be held in place 
mechanically rather than require glue.

If the price is right, there is an immediate demand for thousands of these 
caps per month, just from three people who want them (glassblowers, all.) 

Thank you.

-Douglas Wiggins   www.teleport.com/~zoron/index.html

Zoron Research, Inc. - Custom Lampwork (Glassblowing by Torchlight)
Custom Glassware for Aromatherapy, Perfumery, or just about anything.


From jcarducci@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:48 EST 1995
Article: 18880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Questions about lathe strength
Date: 1 Nov 1995 22:43:09 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 51
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <479eod$9m9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

 I posted a couple ( and a couple of 'extra' as well) notes here a while
back
inquiring about the worth and suitability of a Clausing lathe. I want to
say 
I appreciate the time you who responded  took to help me. I've since 
discovered that the lathe is actually a 10x 36 and not a 12x 36 as I
originally
thought. I hadn't taken a measure to the headstock; silly me. 

Anyway I've decided to pass on this machine and continue looking for a
larger
older American machine or consider one of the imports. To this end I
called
MSC about their $2895 13x40 machine. I asked if a taper attachment was 
available.  Now the fellow there was very candid about this machine and
said
that it is made in China and doesn't have the robustness of their sturdier
13x40 made in Taiwan which will accept a taper attachment. In short they
don't offer a taper attachment for the 'lesser machine. He assured me and
I believed him, that he wasn't trying to sell me the more expensive
machine. (It's moot 'cause I can't pay $6,000 for a machine now anyway). 

The question is:  Wouldn't the 'lesser' machine be capable of using a
taper attachment using  light cuts?  Should I steer clear of import
machines
of similar construction which WERE made to use taper attachments?
Obviously I can't see the the 2 machines close up;  the second (more
expensive ) machine looks bigger with heavier components but the lesser
machine doesn't look THAT much different. There is almost 
900 pounds difference in weight. Perhaps the stand is heavier.
I realize different machines of the same capacity (swing) can make;
or shouldn't, the same cuts in steel for example. 

If any of you have insights into this I'd appreciate hearing from you.
Please 
don't misinterpret what I wrote here; I don't mean to imply that MSC was
trying to use tactics to get a bigger purchase; not at all, I was told
that 
the warranty is extensive and fully backed on both machines. The less 
expensive machine is still considered more appropriate for home shop use
as mine would be. And there is nothing preventing me from offsetting
that tailstock....... is there?

thanks 
jerry c 
  

 
Jerry Carducci
What abend, I didn't touch THAT routine! It's not my fault. I need another
cup of coffee!


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:48 EST 1995
Article: 18881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jet Engine Report
Date: 2 Nov 1995 18:44:03 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <47b3hj$js7@news1.svc>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1 (Windows; U; 16bit)

In the May 1973 Mechanix Illustrated, there is a report
of a 34# Jet Engine built by a Mr. Max Dreher of Santa
Monica, California.

He built the goes-round parts by investment casting
out of 'heat-resistant alloys'.

Produces 55 pounds of thrust and is used for launching
his sailplane from the ground and up to gliding altitude.

Max looks, in the picture, to be young enough to still
be kicking around down there in Southern California.

Anyone want to go out and look for him?  The field he
was said to operate from is at about 4,000 foot ASL.

Next he was going to build a 180# thrust jet.

Here you go, airplane modelers, a Mach-2 F-4 power source!

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:49 EST 1995
Article: 18882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!CTCnet!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in2.uu.net!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!sun!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: PARTS CLEANING
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <DHE821.B01@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
X-Nntp-Posting-Date: Wed Nov  1 20:56:23 1995
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <6c7_9510290044@fmlynet.org> <4705ke$f02@news1.svc> <1995Oct30.004543.8345@bbxrbk.basis.com> <1995Oct30.105750.646@flying-disk.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 01:56:25 GMT
Lines: 24

>To avoid this embarassment in the future, I recently bought
>a pack of un-colored shop towels from Trend Lines.   They
>are really terrible -- almost like cheesecloth.   NOT recommended.
>
>I wish I could find a source of GOOD shop towels, but without
>the color.

Obviously you have not been schooled in the proper machinist's technique, 
which is to wash them when she's not home.  Throw your coveralls in there 
while you're at it; if they come out pink she'll just laugh.    

I've been using the 50/$8.00 cheesecloth towels from Harbor Freight.  
They work pretty well, actually, and certainly beat the heck out of paper 
towels.  Made in Bengla Desh by Bengla Deshis.  
  
If you're being fancy and live in an industrialized area, though, you 
can get shop towels from the guys that supply uniforms to your local gas 
station guys.  

                           Mark Kinsler
                             whose father used old undershirts for shop 
                             towels.  Why don't I have any of those?




From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:50 EST 1995
Article: 18883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!wave.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon.jsc.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl4.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting into rubber/silicone molds?
Date: 1 Nov 1995 16:39:51 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <47940n$3cp@crl4.crl.com>
References: <477vpg$crg@moon.src.honeywell.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl4.crl.com

In article <477vpg$crg@moon.src.honeywell.com>,
Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com> wrote:
>
>From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Casting into rubber/silicone molds ????
>References:  <1995Oct28.032528.20853@lafn.org> 
><DHC277.E9w@ipswichcity.qld.gov.au>
>Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
>X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.4
>
>In article <DHC277.E9w@ipswichcity.qld.gov.au>, Rose Magers 
><rmagers@gil.ipswichcity.qld.gov.au> says:
>>
>>ap927@lafn.org (chris morley) wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi...has anyone done casting into  rubber/silicone molds ? I need to 
>cast some
>>> models in pewter or zinc (pot metal ). Can you please discribe what I 
>have to
>>> do, how to do the mold etc. What is the highest temp I can cast ? The 
>largest
>>> piece you have cast.  One of the parts is 8-10 oz and originally was 
>in zinc.
>>> Any brand of  rubber/silicone  better ?   thanks for your help...CHRIS
>>
>>hi chris I was under the impression thatr the silica rubber molds are 
>>used to make wax copys that are then used in lost wax plaster molds for 
>on 
>>casting in metal
>
>I have cast low temperature (toy soldier) alloys into silicone molds with 
>no trouble.  In fact, one of the suppliers of toy soldier casting 
>supplies sells such molds.  I am not sure how long they last, but they 
>certainly do last for 4-6 shots.
>
>Don Stauffer in Minneapolis

There was a thread on this subject 6 months ago.  Apparantly you can go 
up near or slightly over 1000 degF using rubber molds.  Conquest 
Industries in Santa Fe Springs CA had a video tape and info packet 
available on the subject.  Phone: 310-906-1111.

Someone was about to try to cast small aluminum parts in rubber.  Pot 
metal, pewter, lead, tin, - no problem.

JerryK


From tuttle@peterhouse.chem.uidaho.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:51 EST 1995
Article: 18884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!chi-news.cic.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.orst.edu!news.uidaho.edu!peterhouse.chem.uidaho.edu!tuttle
From: tuttle@peterhouse.chem.uidaho.edu (John Galt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need source: fine mesh screen
Date: 2 Nov 1995 16:24:29 GMT
Organization: FT-GUYS Laboratories, Moscow, Idaho
Lines: 7
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <47arbt$5ca@newshound.csrv.uidaho.edu>
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Small Parts, Inc. has a nice selection of screen.  I don't have the catalog
in front of me, so I'm not sure if they go all the way to 100 mesh.  I don't
have their phone number handy; if you can't find it email me.  They are 
somewhere in Florida.

					Good luck, JG



From ehouse@apple.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:51 EST 1995
Article: 18885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!apple.com!apple.com!not-for-mail
From: ehouse@apple.com (Eric House)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What tubes to use practicing TIG for bikes?
Followup-To: poster
Date: 2 Nov 1995 10:03:25 -0800
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc., Cupertino, California
Lines: 12
Distribution: na
Message-ID: <47b15d$nr8@apple.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: apple.com
Keywords: tube TIG
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.bicycles.tech:62796 rec.bicycles.misc:44977 rec.crafts.metalworking:18885

I'm in a class learning TIG welding, and my goal is to be able to weld
bicycle frames and components.  Most of these are made with chromoly
tubing with ODs in the 1 1/8" range and wall thickness slightly under
1mm.  What would people suggest I use in practice to get the necessary
skills?  Should I use (relatively expensive) chromoly (suggested sources
welcome!), or can I get away with cheaper steels? (sources for these?)

Thanks!
-- 
****************************************************************************
Eric House                      "My employer doesn't share its opinions with
Two-wheeled OpenDoc engineer     me, so I can share only mine with you"


From larrys@zk3.dec.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:52 EST 1995
Article: 18886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ns.mcs.kent.edu!neoucom.edu!news.ysu.edu!odin.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!larrys
From: larrys@enemax.zk3.dec.com (Larry Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Ornamental Turning NEWSGROUP
Date: 2 Nov 1995 20:34:52 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
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Distribution: world
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:18886 rec.antiques:30044


In article <DHBp48.4xL@nntpa.cb.att.com>, millios@hogpg.ho.att.com (-W.MILLIOS) writes:

>I second this motion.  However, I know nothing about the process of
>getting a new newsgroup created.  Perhaps someone who has done it before
>can help?

To get help going through this newsgroup creation process, send email to
group-mentors@amdahl.com explaining exactly what the scope of your proposed
group would be.  A member of group-mentors will send you the documents you
need to read, and will help you select a name and write an RFD.

For more information: http://www.amdahl.com/ext/uvv/

-- 
Larry Smith - My opinions only. Killfile slacker5@ix.netcom.com, taustin@ni.net
  The attempt to justify an evil deed has  perhaps more pernicious consequences
  than the evil deed itself.  The justification of a past crime is the planting
  and cultivation of future crimes. -- Eric Hoffer  Digital Unix: 64 bit _now_.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Nov  5 20:38:53 EST 1995
Article: 18887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!hookup!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vortex tube plans?
Message-ID: <1995Nov2.155456.16959@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 2 Nov 95 15:54:55 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4741eg$fcv@pacific.pacific.net>
 <allen-0111950946190001@allen1.bms.com>
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In article <allen-0111950946190001@allen1.bms.com>, allen@msmail.bms.com (David Allen) writes:
|>In article <4741eg$fcv@pacific.pacific.net>, rhock@mcn.org (Ron Hock) wrote:
|>
|>> Are plans available for vortex tube cooling device?  (Compressed air
|>> goes in side, hot air comes out one end, cold air out the other.)
|>
|>vortex tubes are available for sale from several companys.  a developers
|>kit (several orifice and constrictor combinations) is available from
|>_Vortec_ for around $400.  they're in the mid-west, check Thomas
|>register.  single configurations are around $200.  they also have a good
|>data sheet for theory and background.

ITW Vortec, Cincinnati Ohio. (800) 745-5355, or (513) 891-4092 (FAX).

Usual disclaimer; I merely looked them up.

Jim


From fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:54 EST 1995
Article: 18888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!gaas.enet.dec.com!fisher
From: fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com (gaas::fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Starrett Mics
Date: 3 NOV 95 00:16:35
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 27
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References: <473tht$kmp@news1.svc>
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>             -< Sources for micrometers >-
>
>What are the best sources for Starrett or Mitutoyo micrometers, dial
>indicators and other such tools?  Right now, I need a basic ball
>micrometer for measuring the neck thickness of some rifle cartridges.
>Thanks.
>
>Jim
>JBOBER@IDA.ORG

Funny you should mention that.  As best I can recall the flyer that
I received last night from MSC had a 1" Starrett Mic with ball ends
on sale at 15% off list.  They have also had the normal 1" Starrett
Mic on sale for the last month at 15% off.  I noticed because I have
also been discouraged to never see Starrett tools discounted.  I live
less than 5 miles from their plant and NEVER see there tools discounted
anyplace.  I can highly recommend both MSC and Starrett.  It is worth
calling both for their catalogues.  

P.S.  We're talking 70 something instead of 80 something for a Starrett Mic.
      Not a big discount - but the only one I've ever seen.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:55 EST 1995
Article: 18889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!hp-cv!hp-pcd!sdd.hp.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Web News
Date: 2 Nov 1995 02:32:34 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Don't forget to contribute to the Metal Web News, or at least
go read it.

URL is http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From triker@ix.netcom.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:56 EST 1995
Article: 18890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!psgrain!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!pirates!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!hodes.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: triker@ix.netcom.com (Steve )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Book for sale
Date: 1 Nov 1995 14:51:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I have a copy of the Dover reprint on ornamental turning. Make me an
offer I can't refuse.


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:57 EST 1995
Article: 18891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tesla turbine info?
Date: 2 Nov 1995 18:37:41 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 7
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References: <Maken-0910952127570001@ix-sc7-04.ix.netcom.com> <46o79p$bid@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <478tao$njr@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca>
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The Tesla turbine is designed to run on steam although I
suppose you could run in on any gas.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From lemmas@earthlink Sun Nov  5 20:38:57 EST 1995
Article: 18892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lemmas@earthlink
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Electroless nickel plating
Date: 2 Nov 1995 14:12:06 GMT
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Electroless nickel plating - looking for a place to order kit.  Have read here about a place called 
Brownells that offers them..  Anyone have a phone number or address?


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:58 EST 1995
Article: 18893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Nickel Plating
Date: 2 Nov 1995 17:19:36 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl14.crl.com

In article <n6A226FE1@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>,
Mick Collins <Mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>  I've been trying to make a very thin nickel tube by electro
> plating about 0.004 inches of nickel on to a wax former painted
> with conductive paint.
>  I succeeded in getting an even wall thickness - but unfortunately
> the nickel was porous.
>  Does anyone have any ideas on how to deposit solid
> nickel, please?
>  
>  
>     Cheers
>
>  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
>                                 the sound of hammering tin"
>  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
>

If I let my imagination go, I would say to copper plate it first, then 
nickel plate.  This is because copper is much easier to plate.  If you 
don't want the copper you can get rid of it with nitric acid later, 
leaving the nickel.  But the copper makes a much better surface for 
nickel to plate upon than some of the activator solutions like palladium 
containing solutions.  The palladium activators are for plating 
electroless nickel, but you won't be very successful doing that for a 
thin tube since electroless nickel isn't all nickel but a phosphorous 
nickel combination.

You should also stir or agitate the solution without inducing gas bubbles 
into the solution.  This can be done with a bottom magnetic stir bar, or 
by rotating the electrode.  You want to make sure the solution in contact 
with the workpiece is fresh, insofar as the concentration of nickel 
salts, pH, etc. is concerned.

JerryK


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:38:59 EST 1995
Article: 18894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electroless nickel plating
Date: 2 Nov 1995 17:26:42 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <47ajjm$rbp@mars.earthlink.net>,  <lemmas@earthlink> wrote:
>Electroless nickel plating - looking for a place to order kit.  Have read here about a place called 
>Brownells that offers them..  Anyone have a phone number or address?

It is in the FAQ.  I don't have their phone or address but they are in 
Montazuma, Iowa, I think.  Call information and ask if you can't get the FAQ.

JerryK


From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Sun Nov  5 20:39:00 EST 1995
Article: 18895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news.Edu.TW!news.cc.nctu.edu.tw!news.cis.nctu.edu.tw!usenet
From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I need spindle bearing grease suggestions...
Date: 2 Nov 1995 19:07:28 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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Hi, I am a novice metal-worker and am in the process of cleaning up a very 
nice old Index model 555 vertical mill. I have torn the table and saddle down 
and cleaned and regreased all of the bearings and such. I am now going to do 
the same to the head and pulleys. I talked to Wells-Index and have gotten some 
pointers about the spindle bearings. They (Wells-Index) recommend Mobil Temp 
SHC 32 or Mobilith SHC 15 for re-greasing the spindle bearings. I cannot find 
anyone who sells either of these greases in small quantities. I know the SHC 
32 comes in tubes (I think). MSC also sells Jet-Lube, and I called Jet-Lube to 
get some cross reference grease from them. They suggested a jet-lub 
product called ALCO EP-32 Plus Hi temp which MSC sells. Well, I want to be 
sure about this. I do not want to ruin the bearings. I also called a company 
in Baltimore that sells Duralene products. They recommended a product called 
Dura-Life 1200 which is a "new generation" polyurea grease which is recomended 
for Steel Mills, off-road equipment, fleet and commercial applications (Read 
off of a fax sheet). The Dura-Life 1200 seems like a good product. I have 
specs and test results on it, but I don't have anything to compare it to from 
Mobil, so...BTW, I called Mobil several times to try and find a vender who 
sells small quantities... They told me to call W.W. Grainger, I did but 
Grainger doesn't sell either of the Mobil greases. I was looking for some feed 
back from anyone out there on these or other products that might do a good job 
on my spindle bearings. Thanks.

Kevin Pinkerton. (I am still trying to get my own mail account...)



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:00 EST 1995
Article: 18896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Grinder (bench or pedestal)
Date: 3 Nov 1995 02:52:03 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:18896 rec.woodworking:98966

I cannot make a comment on the 10" but given the choice,
I'd go for an old, heavy, grungy 3-phase 220 machine
that could run big wheels.

The difference between modern grinders (never tried the
$1,000 variety, mind you) and the big old stuff is
light years when you are trying to grind a tool bit
and the D--- thing is vibrating so much that your 
fingers start tingling after a while.

According to a local machine tool rebuilder, new motors
vibrate much more than the 'old' stuff and they always
have problems with vibration when they replace old motors
with new.  We found out about that when a friend of mine
who is *restoring* a lathe got done and when he started
cutting metal, found marks in the surface of the parts.
The brand new 2hp Baldor was vibrating.  Everything in
the lathe including the Baldor rotor had been super-
balanced at a local shop.  Still no joy.

Now he has rebuilt the 3-phase original motor and had it
balanced.  No more surface finish problems.

Now this guy may be picky but he is the only guy I know
with a perfect Polyurethane metalic gray paint job on his
near-perfect Bridgeport.  Even the vice (which he had
ground to within a tenth) is metalic gray.  It certainly
is easy to clean up when done for the day.


Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:01 EST 1995
Article: 18897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!sparky.insinc.net!news.sprintlink.net!oronet!uniserve!van-bc!io.org!news.interlog.com!news.dra.com!news.starnet.net!wupost!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ironworker Problem
Date: 2 Nov 1995 19:40:18 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) wrote:
: 	Hi, Gang! I'm using an old Scotchman ironworker (I think it's the 
: smallest model in their line) to bend some 1/4" by 2" steel strap, using 
: a standard vee-formed "punch" and a matching "die", each about 6" long. 
: The trouble is in getting any accuracy, in terms of angle of bend, since 
: the foot-activated switch that controls the stroke of the punch is so 
: inaccurate. I would like to modify the machine so that the stroke's speed 
: is much slower, but I would like to do so without taking too much of the 
: machine to pieces, as I still want to use the foot switch for other 
: operations on the machine. Is there some do-dad that I can splice in to 
: the hydraulics of the machine to make its travel slow enough so that I 
: can precisely bend things? I've set up a dial indicator to read the 
: travel of the punch in its stroke, but at present the needle moves so 
: fast as to be a blur: not real accurate ;-)

The simplest thing is to put a needle-type flow control valve in the
hydraulic line to the control valve.  Then you can have it wide open
normally, and close it almost all the way for precision bending.  Just
adjust it once to get the speed desired and mark where you set the valve.
Then you can go from fast to slow easily.



From 102522.1546@CompuServe.COM Sun Nov  5 20:39:02 EST 1995
Article: 18898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.corpcomm.net!news3.net99.net!news.cais.net!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Chas Clements <102522.1546@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: *Fine sheathes for your knives*
Date: 2 Nov 1995 20:36:14 GMT
Organization: Malabar Fighting Arts Association
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <47ba3u$iv8$4@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>

I have made custom sheathes for fine knives for many years. If 
you have made a knife for yourself or friends and need a sheath, 
check with me. Will trade for good work. Best Regards

-- 
Chas Clements		|"It's fighting,
1741 Dallas Street	|not folkdancing!"
Aurora CO 80010-2018	|Internet: Compuserve
			PhoneFax: 303-364-0403


From tkreyche@well.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:03 EST 1995
Article: 18899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!well!cust38.max13.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net!tkreyche
From: Tom Kreyche <tkreyche@well.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: laser vs. acid engraving?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 07:01:15 GMT
Organization: well
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X-XXDate: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 06:06:43 GMT

Is anyone familiar with laser and acid etch engraving techniques?

I've worked out the design for a couple sundials, to be engraved on flat
plates. Investigation of engraving costs are shocking! I was quoted $1200
for a 12x18 inch pieces.

I'm ready to build my own laser setup or acid photo-etch setup, yes it
sounds a bit complex and messy, but what the heck. I'm an electronics
engineer and ham radio guy but haven't played with lasers (yet). 

Any pointers appreciated!

Tom


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:03 EST 1995
Article: 18900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!wkaiser
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SB belt length
Date: 1 Nov 1995 18:43:52 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <478f58$rhm@mudraker.mtholyoke.edu>
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John W. Hall (jhall@nbnet.nb.ca) wrote:
> I'm reassembling my 1936 vintage 9" SB lathe and have interference 
> between the motor and the change gear cover door. I think the flat 
> belt is too short, but the problem may be the shape of the new motor. 
> Can somebody tell me what length the belt _should_ be, before I start 
> grinding bits off the motor?

There may not be a _should be_ length for the belt.  The exact length 
would depend on how the lathe and motor bracket are set up.  See if you 
can rearrange things, then get a new belt to fit.  Finding a new belt may 
be hard, but it's easier than grinding bits off the motor, etc.

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From rrt@uno.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:04 EST 1995
Article: 18901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.bluesky.net!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lamarck.sura.net!www.uno.edu!uno.edu!RRT
From: rrt@uno.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Victrola springs
Date: 2 Nov 1995 22:26:26 GMT
Organization: University of New Orleans
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <47bgii$b1f@www.uno.edu>
References: <DH3z36.Iqy@adra.com>,<474j7o$9s8@ns.mcs.kent.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: jazz.ucc.uno.edu

In article <474j7o$9s8@ns.mcs.kent.edu>, jangus@nimitz.mcs.kent.edu (John Angus) writes:
>mac (mac@adra.com) wrote:
>: I have become the owner of an antique Victrola type record player. The spring which 
>: drive the turntable has broken, apparently at a stress point.
>: Does anyone know of a place that has replacement parts or where I can buy the flat 
>: spring material so I can wind new one?
>: -- 
>: Mac
>
Morning,
If you have no luck here you can post something on alt.horology.  Clock people
often have the spring winders ...  (I have often heard that springs from
some items like large music boxes are a "challange"; don't know about 
Victrolas)
Bob



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:05 EST 1995
Article: 18902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vortex tube plans?
Message-ID: <1995Nov2.153901.16955@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 2 Nov 95 15:39:01 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4741eg$fcv@pacific.pacific.net> <474im0$e15@news2.delphi.com>
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In article <474im0$e15@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes:
|>Ron Hock wrote:
|>>Are plans available for vortex tube cooling device?  (Compressed air
|>>goes in side, hot air comes out one end, cold air out the other.)
|>>
|>
|>Hit the library for the back issues of Scientific American. In the late 50s
|>or early 60s (pre-1963) the Amateur Scientist had a column devoted to the
|>Hilsch Vortex Tube, including plans on how to build one.
|>
|>I'm sorry I can't be more specific but the Scidex index does not cover the
|>columns.


For reference, I found the article in the November 1958 issue of
Scientific American, page 145.  Not very good in terms of building
one.

Jim


From rmorris@alaska.net Sun Nov  5 20:39:06 EST 1995
Article: 18903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: core making for sand casting
Date: 2 Nov 1995 05:29:35 GMT
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>   rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes:
>  Scott Riddles wrote:
>  >Does anyone have information about making cores for sand casting?
>  
>  Once again, Lindsay Publications has a book about this. Address in the FAQ.
>  
>  --RC
>  
>>>>
Actually, they have ten or twenty. If I were to only buy one, It would be one of those 
by C.W. Ammen. His Casting Brass covers a range of brasses and bronzes. Casting 
Aluminum covers (surprise) aluminum. Topics include properties of various alloys, sand 
mixtures, core information, general information on types of furnaces, etc. His books 
don't assume that you have a foundry supply store next door and have lots of common 
sense information for the amatuer.

Dick 


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:06 EST 1995
Article: 18904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: 4NS Collets
Message-ID: <1995Nov2.015738.17481@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
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In article <46rsjv$abj@news.proaxis.com>,
Hans Stangier  <stangier@proaxis.com> wrote:
>I am looking for the thread specification, pitch and diameter, for a 4NS 
>collet.
>
>I am also looking to buy some of these collets if anyone has some spare 
>ones lying around.

I sent mail, but haven't received a reply.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:08 EST 1995
Article: 18905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help old army toolpostgrinder
Date: 3 Nov 1995 06:23:57 GMT
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Knut Pedersen (Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no) wrote:
: Yesterday I got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old sheldon lathe. 
: originaly from a army mobile workshop.
: Among the tools was a toolpost grinder marked Electric IDEAL Tools
: Type GIUX No. 17057, Shauer Machine Co. 110 Volt AC-DC 7000RPM 1/4 HP.
: The rotor is difficult to rotate by hand. Armature resistence 30 Ohm.
: I have not connected it to power yet.
: Does anyone of you with experience have advise ? Do I have to regrease?
: I think it have never been used.

I think the bearings on the motor are frozen or gummed up.  Don't try
to turn it - you might be rotating the bearings in the end caps, not the
shaft in the bearings.  If the bearings are ball type, they may be hard to
fix if sheilded.  If open ball type, solvent is in order.  if sleeve type,
(most likely) a little light oil or solvent may free the bearings enough
to disassemble the motor.  Clean the bearings (and the journals, too) with
solvent, then oil the bearings.  If the bearings are porous bronze, then
you need to really soak them.  Saturate the bearing felt or wick, but then
remove excess oil.  Oil splashing around in the motor will ruin the 
insulation.  The commutator probably needs a touching up with fine sandpaper.

Unless it is an air bearing grinder (what a find that would be) the grinder
spindle probably also needs attention.  it is most likely ball-bearing,
an may just need a little light oil.  The belt that drives the spindle will
most likely need replacement.  It will be cracked and dried out.

Good luck - and enjoy your new machine!



From ap927@lafn.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:09 EST 1995
Article: 18906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ap927@lafn.org (chris morley)
Subject: Re: Casting into rubber/silicone molds?
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Hi,,,,,,I have heard of casting zinc alloy by spin casting, melting point
750-800F  but aluminium is much higher, Has anyone done this successfully ?
I have never read about a rubber / silicone that would take the 1400F temp
needed for  aluminium. 
Any help appreciated
Thanks...Chris


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:10 EST 1995
Article: 18907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tig Welders
Date: 3 Nov 1995 00:53:23 -0500
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 tuttle@peterhouse.chem.uidaho.edu (John Galt) wrote:

>  So, I'm looking for opinions on quality, price/
>performance ratios of popular welders.  Also, I wonder if any company
>makes a combined unit which will do all three (tig/stick, plasma cutting,
>and mig).  It seems reasonable to use one power supply for all functions,
>but maybe I'm missing something.

   There are several power supplies available that can be used for
multiple uses, but the only 2  that I know are worthwhile are the Miller
Shopmaster 300 and the Powcon 400. The Miller costs about $1800 for the
base unit, and $500 for the MIG wire feeder and $500 for the TIG High
freq. and foot pedal. The Powcon runs about $3500 for the base unit and
about $100 for the attachments. The Shopmaster is a great machine, but the
Powcon is tiny.
Best of luck and hope this helps




@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"For this was a time when men were REAL men, women were REAL women and
small furry creatures from alpha centauri were REAL small furry creatures
>from  alpha centauri." --- Douglas Adams  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sun Nov  5 20:39:11 EST 1995
Article: 18908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Re: an oil pumping bearing
Message-ID: <DHFL4A.Eyy@CSUFresno.EDU>
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References: <87684.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca> <473u0h$s4a@crl4.crl.com> <DHE0qv.13F@stortek.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 19:36:10 GMT
Lines: 31

In article <DHE0qv.13F@stortek.com> v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841) writes:
>. . .
[snip]
>Who/how on the line boring - people talk a lot about it but what do you
>do about maintaining or re-establishing the alignment of the headstock
>to the bed.  I'm working with a friend on a similar situation on a big
>lathe (14' long by 24" swing) and our current best idea is to scoot the
>headstock down to the middle of the bed (making sure the bed is well
>leveled) and temporarily mount a small lathe headstock at the left end,
>running a boring bar through the original headstock from the tailstock
>to the temporary head.  We then plan to drive the original headstock
>across the boring bar to maintain alignment with the bed.  Does this
>make any sense?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark McDade
>
>mark_mcdade@stortek.com
>

Yes. This is how Dave Gingery bored the headstock for his DIY lathe in
the well-known series of books. I followed the technique and it came
out right on.

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010


From Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:11 EST 1995
Article: 18909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Glenn A. Warr" <Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Etching Brass
Date: 3 Nov 1995 15:28:48 GMT
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Recently there was a posting about photoetching brass,  It was
stated that ferric chloride could be used as the etchant.  Could
someone please tell me what concentration of ferric chloride is
used for this process?  Also, if any one knows, is it possible to
use something as simple as permanent magic marker for the resist
with the ferric chloride process?

Thank you.

Glenn


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:12 EST 1995
Article: 18910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help old army toolpostgrinder
Date: 2 Nov 1995 17:24:43 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <Knut.Pedersen.81.815310146@imp.uib.no>,
Knut Pedersen <Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no> wrote:
>Yesterday I got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old sheldon lathe. 
>originaly from a army mobile workshop.
>Among the tools was a toolpost grinder marked Electric IDEAL Tools
>Type GIUX No. 17057, Shauer Machine Co. 110 Volt AC-DC 7000RPM 1/4 HP.
>The rotor is difficult to rotate by hand. Armature resistence 30 Ohm.
>I have not connected it to power yet.
>Does anyone of you with experience have advise ? Do I have to regrease?
>I think it have never been used.
>Knut Pedersen
>University of Bergen
>Norway

The tool post grinder may be preserved with Cosmoline.  This stuff is 
petroleum based but gets quite hard with age.  Mineral spirits, petrol, 
chloronated solvents, or paraffin will remove it.  If possible, clean the 
bearings and regrease.

JerryK


From glichty@sanewssa.mnet.uswest.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:13 EST 1995
Article: 18911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glichty@sanewssa.mnet.uswest.com (Gene H. Lichty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MIG QUESTION
Date: 3 Nov 1995 06:53:52 GMT
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I presented this question earlier and got no response so will attempt
again.  I am now using a mix of 75%/25% oxygen argon for welding mild
steel.  Can a person use 100% argon for welding steel.  Would like to
have the capability of welding aluminum and steel without changing
tanks.  I know the argon is more expensive, but would just like the
convenience of one tank.  TIA!!  :<)

Geno


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:14 EST 1995
Article: 18912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Subject: Re: core making for sand casting
Message-ID: <DHFExA.Au7@netrix.com>
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Rick Cook (rcook@BIX.com) wrote:
: Scott Riddles wrote:
: >Does anyone have information about making cores for sand casting?

: Once again, Lindsay Publications has a book about this. Address in the FAQ.

  The U.S. Navy Foundry manual (1958, I think) has a chapter on making
cores. It seemed pretty informative to my untrained eye. This book is
also available from Lindsay and I have also seen it at technical book
stores.

Bruce


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:14 EST 1995
Article: 18913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Subject: Re: Remember Cutting Tool Basics
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anderson (anderson@darex.com) wrote:
[snip]
:  
:  Recently, I asked a CNC operator about the knowledge required to do
:  his job. My friend is good at his work and well paid because of it. He
:  quickly listed conversational programming, EIA programming,
:  comprehension of geometry and trigonometry, understanding of complex
:  measuring instruments, and knowledge of coordinate measuring machine
:  functions. Every thing he mentioned oozed of sophisticated technology
:  and scholarship. However, I was concerned by his omissions. He did not
:  mention feed and speed rates, nor how to identify (much less produce)
--------------------------------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
:  a properly sharpened cutting tool.
:  
:  While it's easy to get caught up in the glamour of technology it is
:  important to remember the basics. A recent help wanted ad for a
:  machine operator stressed "computer knowledge required". No where in
:  the ad did was the applicant asked about their cutting tool knowledge.
:  A CNC machine as it churns out parts is a wonder to behold. However,
:  if the drills, taps or end mills in the CNC machine are dull or
:  improperly sharpened, the machine's output shifts from awesome to
:  awful.

  So a CNC operator identifies a sharp tool by its awesome output and
produces one by walking over to the tool crib. What's the problem?

Bruce


From dave.bozarth@kandy.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:15 EST 1995
Article: 18914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dave.bozarth@kandy.com (DAVE BOZARTH)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: core making for sand cast
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SR>Does anyone have information about making cores for sand casting?

David Gingery discusses core making in his book THE METAL LATHE.
He uses a mixture of 20 parts sand to one part wheat flour tempered with
1 part molasses in 10 parts water. The core is formed in a wooden split
mold. One half of the wooden mold is used as a pattern to cast an
aluminum core plate to support the core when baking it.
---
 þ OLX 2.1 TD þ Chicken heads are the chief food of captive alligators.


From zzz6199@epx.cis.umn.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:16 EST 1995
Article: 18915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: zzz6199@epx.cis.umn.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: core making for sand casting
Date: 3 Nov 1995 03:45:38 GMT
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BrnzCaster (brnzcaster@aol.com) wrote:
: In article <4741jj$lc7@news2.his.com>, riddles@his.com (Scott Riddles)
: writes:

: >Does anyone have information about making cores for sand casting?
: >I am trying to pour a thin walled casting. The Petrobond sand 
: >cores I have been making need additional strength.  I have seen the
: >processes of making shell cores, baked cores, and air-set done in 
: >foundrys but cannot find a good source of detailed information.
: >
: >

Even easier (maybe cheaper too) just ask your local druggist or chemical
suplier for water glass - the common name for sodium silicate. I used a lot
of it for making very complex and fragile cores for bronze casting. Mixed
sand and water glass in a Hobart resturant mixer, put mix in core box, gas
with co2 and voila - a strong core.

: I use Chem-Bond #12 as the bonding agent for my sandcasting cores. It is a
: sodium silicate based material and is activated immediately with CO2 gas.
: You can make some very fast and stable cores with this method. I use 250cc
: of Chem-Bond to each gallon of silica sand (120 GFN) and gas with CO2 for
: about 10 seconds on small cores.
: A supplier of the Chem-Bond in "hobby sizes" (quarts) is the following
: mailorder company...
: Power Model Supply Co.
: 13260 Summit Drive
: De Soto, MO  63020
: 1-314-586-6466

: You can vary the hardness of the cores by changing the grain size of the
: sand and the ratio of Chem-Bond used. Perpared cores have a shelf life of
: a couple months. Make sure you use good core venting practices, as there
: is considerable off-gassing of the core during pours.
: The Chem-Bond wetted sand has a shelf life of several months if you keep
: it in a TIGHTLY sealed plastic container. Any exposure to carbon dioxide
: will harden the sand.

: Winston

: *******
: Winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
: brnzcaster@aol.com
: 73754.3177@compuserve.com
: http://www.mmf.com/metal/home/wwh/


From threeputz@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:17 EST 1995
Article: 18916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: threeputz@aol.com (Threeputz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Christel Dickinson
Date: 3 Nov 1995 02:01:39 -0500
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My server did not pick up your internet address on message re: bearing
separator, orbital sander and model...message was lost at that point.
Please re-send.

Thanks, Ken DeMarsh
             Threeputz@aol.com
            http://www.virtual-ventures.com/gfs


From threeputz@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:17 EST 1995
Article: 18917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: threeputz@aol.com (Threeputz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help old army toolpostgrinder
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

The Shauer Machine Company in post war years was changed to Shauer
Manufacturing and was located in Cincinnati, Ohio. They also manufacutred
speed lathes and battery chargers. I'm certain that they did not build
lathe grinders after 1965. I think they were bought out by DC Morrison Co.
in Covington, Kentucky (606) 581-7511. Typically lathe grinders as lathe
accessories get little use and yours most likely just need to be
disassembled and cleaned of rust or cosmoleen.
Best Regards,
Ken DeMarsh
http://www.virtual-ventures.com/gfs


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:18 EST 1995
Article: 18918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Grinder (bench or pedestal)
Date: 2 Nov 1995 17:04:33 -0800
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In article <475him$mvo@watnews2.watson.ibm.com>,
Roger Hoover <rhoover@watson.ibm.com> wrote:
>
>I'd like to buy a bench or pedestal grinder.  I'd love to have
>one of the cast iron beasts, but the few that I have found
>advertised new cost too much ($1000 and up), and all the ones
>that I find at auctions seem to be 3 phase.
>
>Delta makes a 10" hobby/trade 1hp model (23-980) that Tools On Sale
>has for $239.
>
>- Is this a quality machine?  Where is it made?  Do you like it?
>
>- Anyone sell this machine for less?
>
>- What other grinders (brands/models) should I look at?
>
>roger
>rhoover@watson.ibm.com

One standard of the industry is Baldor.  A 10" grinder is a biiggg 
machine, IMHO suitable for grinding the sprue off smaller cast iron 
castings.  The smaller workshop can easily get away with a 6" or 8" 
grinder.  Travers Tool has the Baldor 6" delux for $249 and the 8" for 
$546 both in 115/230 v single phase.  Three phase is cheaper, of course.

JerryK



From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:19 EST 1995
Article: 18919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: an oil pumping bearing
Date: 2 Nov 1995 16:46:38 -0800
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In article <DHE0qv.13F@stortek.com>,
Mark McDade  x36841 <v040601@denab.stortek.com> wrote:
>Who/how on the line boring - people talk a lot about it but what do you
>do about maintaining or re-establishing the alignment of the headstock
>to the bed.  I'm working with a friend on a similar situation on a big
>lathe (14' long by 24" swing) and our current best idea is to scoot the
>headstock down to the middle of the bed (making sure the bed is well
>leveled) and temporarily mount a small lathe headstock at the left end,
>running a boring bar through the original headstock from the tailstock
>to the temporary head.  We then plan to drive the original headstock
>across the boring bar to maintain alignment with the bed.  Does this
>make any sense?
>Thanks,
>Mark McDade

IMHO, you do line boring on a boring mill.  It is essentially as you say 
but the mill is a separate machine.  If I were to line bore a lathe 
headstock the way you suggest, I would regrind the ways first, then get 
another headstock, scrape it in along with the tailstock....Oh, you see 
the problem.  I think you would be better off going to a place that makes 
racing car engines that line bores the crank bearings.  Your headstock 
center is about 12" and that is about the right size for a car engine 
boring operation.  For a lathe headstock, rigidity is a must as is 
alignment during the boring.  I really don't see how you could slide a 
headstock along the ways and keep it in proper registration with the 
boring bar at all times.  You can't really bolt the headstock to the 
lathe saddle very easily to obtain power feed.  A musing on the idea....

JerryK



From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:19 EST 1995
Article: 18920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vortex tube plans?
Date: 1 Nov 1995 17:30:37 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <474im0$e15@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes:
>Ron Hock wrote:
>>Are plans available for vortex tube cooling device?  (Compressed air
>>goes in side, hot air comes out one end, cold air out the other.)
>>
>
>Hit the library for the back issues of Scientific American. In the late 50s
>or early 60s (pre-1963) the Amateur Scientist had a column devoted to the
>Hilsch Vortex Tube, including plans on how to build one.
>
>I'm sorry I can't be more specific but the Scidex index does not cover the
>columns.
>
>--RC
Fy amusement-

"The Amateur Scientist," by C. L. Stong
ISBN 0-671-20833-0, pub by Simon & Shuster -1960.

Has plans for Hilsch vortex tube, plus other goodies - make your
own Van de Graaff generator!

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From Josh@WolfeNET.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:20 EST 1995
Article: 18921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vortex tube plans?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 16:11:22 GMT
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In <1995Nov2.153901.16955@roper.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) writes:


>For reference, I found the article in the November 1958 issue of
>Scientific American, page 145.  Not very good in terms of building
>one.

Also, the article was reprinted in the book Scientific
American Book of Projects for the Amateur Scientist, edited
by C. L. Stong.  Lots of other fun stuff in the book --
can't remember the publication date, but lots of libraries
have the book.  (I bought a copy used in high school, when
I was building a Van de Graaf generator.)

--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:21 EST 1995
Article: 18922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electroless nickel plating
Message-ID: <1995Nov3.095912.16993@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 Nov 95 09:59:12 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <47ajjm$rbp@mars.earthlink.net>, lemmas@earthlink writes:
|>Electroless nickel plating - looking for a place to order kit.  Have read here about a place called 
|>Brownells that offers them..  Anyone have a phone number or address?

>From  the FAQ:

   -  Brownells
      Route 2 Box 1
      200 South Front Street
      Montezuma, Iowa, 50171
      (515) 623-5401, (515) 623-3896 (FAX)
 


From rcook@BIX.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:22 EST 1995
Article: 18923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any Blacksmiths in Nashville?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 10:43:00 GMT
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Thomas M. Everett wrote:
>Check in you local phone book for farriers (horse shoers) or riding
>stables and ask who the local farriers/horse shoers are.

Farriers are not a good place to start. It is not only highly specialized,
it doesn't have very much to do with smithing. Some farriers still adjust
the shoes hot, but even this is dying out.

A better place is to look for a chapter of ABANA in the area. I think there
is one.

--RC


From lamantia@u.washington.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:23 EST 1995
Article: 18924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lamantia@u.washington.edu (Stephen LaMantia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Grinder (bench or pedestal)
Date: 3 Nov 1995 13:41:20 GMT
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kimberln@crl.com (Jerry Kimberlin) writes:

 > One standard of the industry is Baldor. 

I'll second that.  My experience with Baldor is with a 1950s 7" bench
grinder I scored at the flea market a few months back.  Out of curiosity
for the identity of my find, I ended up speaking with a corporate guy for
Baldor at the Portland office.  He dug up the info for me and identified
my machine, and while we were chatting on the phone, he confessed that he
wished their machines were just a little less well-built and didn't last
so darn long, because he gets a dozen calls a week from folks who've come
into Baldor grinders and other electric motors that are 30, 40, 50 years
old and they're constantly having to dig through factory archives looking
up information for curious folks like myself.  (They don't really mind, he
just thought it was funny it happens so much.)

Makes one wonder: how many of *today's* manufacturers will be jokingly 
airing the same "complaint" decades from now?

As for my own personal Baldor, I had tested the runout on the shafts, and
it was less than .0015 on one end and nothing that I could tell on the
other.  According to the Baldor rep I had on the phone, this baby was
still within factory tolerances!  This on a machine that spent at least
the last 20 years of its life getting heavy use in a car repair shop. 

I've spoken with several people here in town who also own Baldor
equipment.  Same experiences, same impressions.  One motorhead I met at an
electric-motor setup at the market told me to bow my head when I say that
name.  He was smiling when he said that, but his point was serious.

Bottom line: Baldor is among that ever-dwindling host of equipment makers
whose products will likely still be running when your grandkids are
laughing at your hairstyle in those old family photos, and for whose
purchase nobody ever got fired for. 

-- Steve LaMantia
   Seattle, WA



From jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:23 EST 1995
Article: 18925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: mig info needed
Date: 3 Nov 1995 18:36:51 GMT
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 Three gasses are commonly used for steel MIG welding: Argon, CO2, or 
75/25% mix.  Argon makes the weld "sit up" higher, i.e. less penetration 
& slump. Probably OK for sheet metal, not good for heavy work. CO2 
produces the most penetrating weld, bad for sheet metal but ideal for big 
iron. The standard 75/25 is a compromise.

 I don't think 75/25 is suitable for aluminum. When I've tried it, I get a 
dirty weld with poor appearance, lots of residue. I think the CO2 decomposes
and leaves a lot of Al2O3 in the weld, plus loose carbon.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


From boulderbru@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:24 EST 1995
Article: 18926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: boulderbru@aol.com (BoulderBru)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Live Steam Train 3" scale (15"? gauge")
Date: 3 Nov 1995 11:59:01 -0500
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Looking for any info on source of kit or 'ready-to-run' small scale steam
train.  Aware of Little Engine out of VA.  Any others out there, 
preferably in CO?  Also need info on track sources,  hauling power, 
reliability.  Anybody have any experience with this?  Novice here.  Any
info would be appreciated.  Thanks.  boulderbru@aol.com.


From bobp@coho.halcyon.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:25 EST 1995
Article: 18927 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bobp@coho.halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: can you identify this shaper?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 22:24:51 GMT
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Thinking about driving two hours tomorrow to look at a shaper for sale,
but all the info I can get about its size is "it's big enough to
need a forklift" and "it's a 24 BG [sic] crank shaper".  This ring
a bell for anyone?

thanks in advance

Bob


From mdna1941@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:26 EST 1995
Article: 18928 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mdna1941@aol.com (MDNA1941)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Buying Used Machinery
Date: 3 Nov 1995 15:30:59 -0500
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Buy Used Metalworking And Capital Machinery With Confidence; Do Business
Mith MDNA Members 


 Just Released!  The MDNA 1996 Used Machinery Buyer's Guide can help you
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MDNA's code of business ethics.   

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20910 Phone: (800) 872-7807, (301) 585-9494, Fax:  (301) 588-7830.  Say
you saw us on the Internet.


From jperdman@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:26 EST 1995
Article: 18929 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jperdman@aol.com (JPErdman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Which Grinder (bench or pedestal)
Date: 3 Nov 1995 19:36:19 -0500
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Stay away from Dayton grinders. I've been thru 3 of 'em in my shop in one
year's time. We use them for shapening brazed carbide turning tools.  They
look nice and the price is right but the bearings just don't hold up.
Replacing the bearings cost us maintenance dollars but also the
replacement bearings didn't last very long either. I think the Dayton
grinders are simply under-engineered!

I bit the bullet an purchased the an 8" Baldor (from Grainger). I can't
remember the price but I'm pretty sure it was under $300. Certainly NOT
$500. We love it. Has given us  NO TROUBLE AT ALL. The extra $ was well
worth it. Of course we're running a commercial shop that uses the grinders
all the time. You may not have the same needs in a home shop, but it turns
out that there were other costs.....

Turns out that we also had spent quite alot on (expensive) carbide
grinding wheels with the Daytons because the bad bearings would cause them
to get out of round VERY quickly. The constant dressing of the wheels wore
them down very quickly. Until I checked the records I was unaware of how
much those CHEAP grinders really cost us. I guess that just proves once
again what my Dad taught me about the value of cheap tools!! 
John Erdman
Greenfield Machine Works     
Costigan, Maine
207-827-5557 


From crocusdes@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:27 EST 1995
Article: 18930 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crocusdes@aol.com (CROCUSDES)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: mig info needed
Date: 3 Nov 1995 20:08:49 -0500
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You can get away with using argon on steel but the welds are hardened and
it's tough 
on your carbide bits if you are surfacing the fillets etc.  If you don't
want two separate
tanks then you might consider having flux  core wire for your steel work
if you don't
mind the fumes.  Chris Ray


From nykwish@msn.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:28 EST 1995
Article: 18931 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: nykwish@msn.com (T Wish)
Subject: RE: de-rusting wrought iron?
Date: 4 Nov 95 01:01:35 -0800
References: <STUARTS.95Oct31101108@pickering.llan>
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Consider a 5% solution of Oxalic Acid or 5% Ammonium Citrate Dibasic 
applied with a stiff nylon bristle brush.  


From sentry3@ix.netcom.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:29 EST 1995
Article: 18932 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sentry3@ix.netcom.com (Peter Katz )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New casting system?
Date: 4 Nov 1995 01:46:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Nov 03  5:46:29 PM PST 1995

Hi,

In jewelry class this week, I was asked if I knew anything about a new
casting system that utilizes a microwave and also incorporates plastic
flasks.  It seems that the entire casting from a "special" investment
to completed cast can be accomplished in a very short period of time.

I have mentioned the Delph system and they told me that it was not that
system. although that also seemed interesting.

Any leads on the quest for this new system would be applreciated.
Thanks
Beth  sentry3@ix.netcom.com
>



From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Sun Nov  5 20:39:30 EST 1995
Article: 18933 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.ccs.queensu.ca!news.rmc.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vortex tube plans?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 20:19:10 GMT
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-0311951520330001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <4741eg$fcv@pacific.pacific.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: korolukm.rmc.ca

In article <4741eg$fcv@pacific.pacific.net>, rhock@mcn.org (Ron Hock) wrote:

> Are plans available for vortex tube cooling device?  (Compressed air
> goes in side, hot air comes out one end, cold air out the other.)

I seem to recall that plans for a simple version of this device were
published in a short article in Popular Science.  I believe that it was an
October or November issue in the late 1970's (probably 76 or 77). 

The article used common hardware store stuff to construct one, but the
basic principles and dimensions could be tweaked by a machinist to improve
the efficiency. 

Hmmmmm!! I think I might try to find the article and try building one myself.

-- 
   
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:31 EST 1995
Article: 18934 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl3.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: 3 Nov 1995 16:00:25 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <47eaep$gsi@crl3.crl.com>
References: <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl3.crl.com

In article <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com>,
Glenn A. Warr <Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com> wrote:
>Recently there was a posting about photoetching brass,  It was
>stated that ferric chloride could be used as the etchant.  Could
>someone please tell me what concentration of ferric chloride is
>used for this process?  Also, if any one knows, is it possible to
>use something as simple as permanent magic marker for the resist
>with the ferric chloride process?
>
>Thank you.
>
>Glenn

You use saturated ferric chloride at room temperature.  I have used India 
Ink for resist as well as masking tape for 1/4" wide traces.  It 
undercuts a bit but the thin copper goes away before the wide traces do.

JerryK


From rrt@uno.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:35 EST 1995
Article: 18935 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!xmission!news.cc.utah.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lamarck.sura.net!www.uno.edu!uno.edu!RRT
From: rrt@uno.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: bending spelter, base metal
Date: 3 Nov 1995 23:14:34 GMT
Organization: University of New Orleans
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <47e7oq$epp@www.uno.edu>
Reply-To: rrt@uno.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: jazz.ucc.uno.edu

Morning,

I have a base metal? spelter?, pot metal? French clock (statue next to a
column with clock on top) which is BENT (with a beat-up bronze finish).
 The base is bent (dropped on one
foot).  I have been wanting to unbend it but don't want to break it.  
"I HAVE BEEN TOLD" that 
heating the metal to soften it so you can bend it is near impossible.  
Depends on the alloy.  For some alloys, the temperature at which it becomes 
malleable may only be a few degrees below the temperature where the metal 
flows.  Sometimes it goes from solid to flowing at one temperature (no 
temperature where it is malleable.)

If I ever "find time" I may try to heat a chip of it under torque and see 
what I can do.  Anyone out there know more about bending (and soldering)
spelter, base metal, pot metal ...?  Pure Zinc is listed as malleable between 
212 degrees F and somewhere in the low to mid 300s.  I seem to remember that 
the alloy melts in the 400 degree range (or was that 7xx?).

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me or places to go read ...?

Bob Taggart, RRT@UNO.edu

P.S. I've often heard the terms pot metal, base metal and spelter referring 
to the cheap zinc alloy, but, according to the dictionary, pot metal is an 
alloy of copper and lead (no zinc mentioned!).



From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:36 EST 1995
Article: 18936 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 03 Nov 95 01:37:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 4NS COLLETS
Message-ID: <7da_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: Hans Stangier
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 34

 -=> Quoting Hans Stangier to All <=-

 HS> I am looking for the thread specification, pitch and diameter, for a
 HS> 4NS  collet.

     Hmm...my 1946 _Machinery's Handbook_ tells us that:

     Rivett #4 NS collet:
     Right-hand thread
     Maximum capacity, round stock- 5/8"
     Maximum capacity, square stock- 7/16"
     Maximum capacity, hexagon stock- 17/32"
     Body diameter- 0.826"
     Thread- 0.812" x 20 t.p.i.
     Length- 3 1/2" (not including radiused end)

     This collet is listed as having been used on:
     Flather 14" and 16" cone-head (!) lathes
     LeBlond Regal 12" and 14" lathes
     Rivett No. 504-4 N.S. bench lathe
     Rivett No. 608 bench lathe
     Shepard lathe
     South Bend 13" lathe

     

... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From jaf@a2.mti.cdc.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:36 EST 1995
Article: 18937 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.interlog.com!news.dra.com!news.mid.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!a2.mti.cdc.com!jaf
From: jaf@a2.mti.cdc.com (James Foster x2912)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I need spindle bearing grease suggestions...
Date: 3 Nov 1995 17:31:43 GMT
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 4
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <47djlv$mrd@cdshub.cdc.com>
References: <47b4tg$eel@news.cis.nctu.edu.tw>
NNTP-Posting-Host: a2.mti.cdc.com

I have bought Mobil grease in tubes from auto
supply stores. I don't know if it's the same type that
you're looking for, but you might want to call a few
auto stores and see what they have.


From willias2390@cobra.uni.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:37 EST 1995
Article: 18938 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!news.uiowa.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!willias2390
From: willias2390@cobra.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP Anodizing
Message-ID: <1995Nov3.133814.50326@cobra.uni.edu>
Date: 3 Nov 95 13:38:14 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
Lines: 6

I would like to know if anyone out there does their own anodizing.  I would
like to anodize some parts of my own.  Is it possible to do in a home workshop? 
Where could I start in getting some info.?  Just type reply to write to me.
Thanks,
Scott    ^U^
          U


From vrbass@edge.net Sun Nov  5 20:39:38 EST 1995
Article: 18939 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.corpcomm.net!news3.net99.net!news.cais.net!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!news.edge.net!news
From: Vance Bass <vrbass@edge.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Small used lathe
Date: 4 Nov 1995 04:05:18 GMT
Organization: The Edge
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <47eopu$f0g@excalibur.edge.net>
References: <476u5p$9qi@excalibur.edge.net> <478rj9$11q8@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip157.nash.edge.net

Several people wrote to me directly in response to my post about the
difficulty of finding small lathes.  A couple offered equipment (thanks!)
and a couple asked why I didn't give my city or region so more could
offer equipment.
To which I respond: I wasn't really posting a "wanted to buy" ad in
that message, just commenting on the apparent scarcity of used small
lathes.
I you DO have a small used lathe and are interested in getting rid of
it, I'm in Nashville Tenn.  If you're not in Nashville, you can still
write if you have a machine to unload.  We can figure something out if
the deal works for both of us.
Thanks for the responses, everyone.


Vance Bass	Homepage at http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/
Nashville Garden Railway Society
=====================================
The steam locomotive teaches us that the railway age was a totally
viable and a civilised alternative to the hideous consequences of
basing national economies on road transportation.  -- Colin Garratt


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Sun Nov  5 20:39:39 EST 1995
Article: 18940 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!gatech2!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!relay-4.mail.demon.net
From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 1995 21:52:29 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <647572106wnr@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
References: <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com>
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X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7


> Recently there was a posting about photoetching brass,  It was
> stated that ferric chloride could be used as the etchant.  Could
> someone please tell me what concentration of ferric chloride is
> used for this process?  Also, if any one knows, is it possible to
> use something as simple as permanent magic marker for the resist
> with the ferric chloride process?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Glenn
 

Glenn,

I've always used an almost saturated solution to good effect on 
copper pcbs.

I have in the past used 'Engineers Marking Blue' as a resist, but
it needs laying on very solidly to avoid pinholes.  Of course for
decorative brass the classic method is to dip the item in molten
wax, then scribe the pattern into the surface when cooled.
-- 
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK. 0181-466-5582



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:39 EST 1995
Article: 18941 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting into rubber/silicone molds?
Date: 3 Nov 1995 02:42:13 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <47bvi5$gm6@news1.svc>
References: <477vpg$crg@moon.src.honeywell.com> <47940n$3cp@crl4.crl.com>
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We had a talk about this technique at West Valley Live Steam Club.

The club Chairman had cast about (I think) 1,000 belt buckles
using this technique.  The failure mechanism of the mold rubber
is that it finally cracks.

The Silicon Rubber pads are capable of handling almost 1,000 degree F
metal.

The video is great and the work people do with this tool is
shown in a fair amount of detail.

Too bad it cannot handle aluminum!!

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From jammes9231@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:40 EST 1995
Article: 18942 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!gatech2!pirates!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jammes9231@aol.com (JAMMES9231)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cnc controlls
Date: 3 Nov 1995 18:40:40 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 3
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: jammes9231@aol.com (JAMMES9231)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I need help turning my manual mill into a cnc. I know it can be done but
don't know were to get the stepper motors and drives and software I might
need if anyone can build these for me I would gladly pay you...


From pmunk@twics.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:41 EST 1995
Article: 18943 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.umbc.edu!eff!blanket.mitre.org!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!misc.twics.com!usenet
From: pmunk@twics.com (Peter Munk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP! Corrosion data on COR-TEN steel, Stainless steel, aluminum
Date: 4 Nov 1995 02:47:57 GMT
Organization: TWICS
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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Hi,

I am looking for data on corrosion of various metals. Does anybody know some 
good books or sources where I can get this kind of data?

I am basically looking for how various metals (COR-TEN steel, Stainless 
steel, Electro galvanized steel, Hot galvanized steel, and aluminum) reacts 
in different environments (industrial, seaside, etc.) and especially how 
much the metals will corrode over a period for example in micron. 

Does this kind of data exist? I would prefer of course that the data of 
all the materials were covered in one publication - to make it easier to 
compare.

Thank you in advance for your kind attention!

Best regards,


Peter Munk
pmunk@twics.com



From brnzcaster@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:41 EST 1995
Article: 18944 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: core making for sand casting
Date: 4 Nov 1995 02:17:45 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 37
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <47f42p$ln9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <47c392$8o5@epx.cis.umn.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <47c392$8o5@epx.cis.umn.edu>, zzz6199@epx.cis.umn.edu ()
writes:

>Even easier (maybe cheaper too) just ask your local druggist or chemical
>suplier for water glass - the common name for sodium silicate. I used a
lot
>of it for making very complex and fragile cores for bronze casting. Mixed
>sand and water glass in a Hobart resturant mixer, put mix in core box,
gas
>with co2 and voila - a strong core.
>
>

Yes, you can use the pure sodium silicate solution to make cores, but
there is also a down-side.
The commercial preparations such as Chem-Bond also have additives (sugar,
etc) that control the hot crush strength of the cores. Using pure sodium
silicate usually produces a very hard core that doesn't collapse during
casting solidification and are sometimes very hard to remove. You run the
risk of cracked castings with very hard cores (depending on the alloy used
and the pattern design).
You can also add other things yourself to tune the core characteristics;
try things like bentonite clay powder, iron oxide powder, sugar, various
flours, etc.
For most of my work, I stick with the straight Chem-Bond #12 and silica
sand; I control the core characteristics (crush and surface finish) by
using different grades of sand and different mix ratios.
It has been a couple years since I bought Chem-Bond in bulk but I think
the last I got was about $65 for 5 gallons.

Winston

*******
Winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
brnzcaster@aol.com
73754.3177@compuserve.com
http://www.mmf.com/metal/home/wwh/


From dralle@matronics.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:43 EST 1995
Article: 18945 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!decwrl!lll-winken.llnl.gov!usenet
From: "Matt G. Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Date: 4 Nov 1995 08:30:34 GMT
Organization: Matronics
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <47f8ba$j48@lll-winken.llnl.gov>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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To: dralle@matronics.com,BILLG63475@aol.com

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1HP Sears/Craftsman drill press with a 5/8 chuck.  I want to
buy a threading tool for it but all I can find is 33JT taper tools.  
Stamped on the body of the chuck is "RJ3-16L".  Am I to assume that this 
is a "3JT" taper?  Will a 33JT taper tool fit okay?

Also, could someone explain the differences in tapping tools.  Some say 
"Non-reversing" others say "Reversing".  I have the Penn Tool (SPI) and
ENCO Tool catalogs.  Any recommendations?  I need to tap 4-40 and 6-32.

Also, Where can I get good quality taps?  What *is* a good quality tap?  
How much should a quality tap cost?  I will be taping 6061-T6 Alum.

Thank you for any assistance.

Matt Dralle



From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:44 EST 1995
Article: 18946 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.emf.net!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 02 Nov 95 23:48:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ENCO 9X20 LATHE - INT
Message-ID: <7db_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: Morton@interserv.com
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 28

 -=> Quoting Morton@interserv.com to All <=-

 Mo> Subject: Re: ENCO 9X20 LATHE - Integrity of MDNA Members
 
 >   j.p..wieser@fmlynet.org writes:

     (Reality check: In the course of a discussion, I referred to 
a "loudmouthed, buck-grabbing machinery dealer," and I stand 
behind that description of the man. In fact, he was a _lying_, 
loudmouthed, buck-grabbing machinery dealer. I had never heard of 
the "MDNA;" therefore, it would have been impossible for me to 
question the integrity of its members.)

 Mo> With all due respect, I am one of those used machinery
 Mo> dealers you described in your posting,
 Mo> and I take issue with your description of them.

     Think. "I saw a brown dog" does not mean "All dogs are 
brown." 

... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From gds@ix.netcom.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:45 EST 1995
Article: 18947 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!hodes.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!Gary
From: gds@ix.netcom.com (Gary Swindell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 3 Nov 1995 21:54:47 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <47e337$lqm@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-phx3-13.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Nov 03  1:54:47 PM PST 1995
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

We are actively working on an internal combustion engine design that offers 
the following benefits:

- HP/weight ratios of up to 5:1 (at ideal fuel/air ratio)
- ability to run at very lean mixtures (1:100 fuel/air ratio) 
- normal HP/weight ratios at very lean mixtures, reducing emissions by 98%
- very high real world thermal efficiency

Applications that are being considered include generators, small power 
equipment etc…

We are looking for partners in this process as we are in need of better 
machining capacity and capital.  
If you have any interest in a project like this please respond via e-mail.


From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Sun Nov  5 20:39:46 EST 1995
Article: 18948 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!DHOLLY
From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bending spelter, base metal
Date: 4 Nov 1995 18:21:47 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <47gavr$i82@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <47e7oq$epp@www.uno.edu>
Reply-To: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pslc.psl.wisc.edu

In article <47e7oq$epp@www.uno.edu>, rrt@uno.edu writes:
[...]
>I have a base metal? spelter?, pot metal? French clock (statue next to a
>[...]
>what I can do.  Anyone out there know more about bending (and soldering)
>spelter, base metal, pot metal ...?  Pure Zinc is listed as malleable between 
[...]

 "White Metal Solder Repair and Restoration" by Carl J. Peckinpaugh
in the April 1989 NAWCC Bulletin describes one method of soldering the
stuff. He uses 60/40 flux core solder or SN62; zinc chloride flux; and
a small soldering iron.


                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From clear@ibm.net Sun Nov  5 20:39:47 EST 1995
Article: 18949 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!usenet
From: clear@ibm.net (Charlie Lear)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying Used Machinery
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 1995 09:09:04 -0500
Organization: The Bear's Lair, Wellington, New Zealand
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <0GtcmSMRym0D078yn@ibm.net>
References: <47du63$k0f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: clear@ibm.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: 202.135.20.194

In article <47du63$k0f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
mdna1941@aol.com (MDNA1941) wrote:
> To order write, phone or fax [...] Say you saw us on the Internet.

Too much effort and expense.  What about email?  Get with the program,
guys!

--
   *** Personal Account, Personal Opinions, Spokesman for Nobody ***
              Charlie 'The Bear' Lear             DOD#221
              Wellington, New Zealand       clear@ibm.net



From jburnett@MCS.COM Sun Nov  5 20:39:48 EST 1995
Article: 18950 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!van-bc!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!not-for-mail
From: jburnett@MCS.COM (John Burnett)
Newsgroups: houston.jobs.wanted,tamu.jobs.wanted,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: <^><^>  Liquid Gold for Sale, Job Opportunities
Date: 4 Nov 1995 15:23:24 -0600
Organization: Centerline Equipment Corporation
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <47glkc$14j@Mars.mcs.com>
References: <476dlg$l7u@access.accesscomm.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mars.mcs.com

In article <476dlg$l7u@access.accesscomm.net>,
AutoMan <LiquidGold@cashflow.com> wrote:
>Liquid Gold -- a new revolutionary motor and indusrial lubricant.
>
Snip............... Hype deleted                                 
>
>Thanks
>Liq1Gold@aol.com
>LiquidGold@cashflow.com
>http://www.cashflow.com/Liq-Gold.htm
>1-800-684-8253 Ext 2255
>

Do you guys have names? Why wouldn't a person sign a post?
AutoMan, cashflow.com ? Did you mean to post to
sci.hype.amateur.

john burnett


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Sun Nov  5 20:39:49 EST 1995
Article: 18951 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!relay-4.mail.demon.net
From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cnc controlls
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 10:05:44 GMT
Organization: None
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <143533105wnr@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
References: <47e99o$nef@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
X-NNTP-Posting-Host: relay-4.mail.demon.net
X-Broken-Date: Sunday, Nov 05, 1995 10.05.44
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7


> I need help turning my manual mill into a cnc. I know it can be done but
> don't know were to get the stepper motors and drives and software I might
> need if anyone can build these for me I would gladly pay you...
> 
> 

James,

Try Ah-Ha Design Group Inc:

Box 14519 Mpls, MN 55414

612-331-7657

They stock the complete kit including new and s/hand steppers. They also
do a good introductory article, and very comprehensive software.

I got the intro kit from them but chickened out shipping all that heavy gear
>from  the States to the UK. They were very helpful over the 'phone.

Hope this helps

-- 
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK.. 0181-466-5582



From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:49 EST 1995
Article: 18952 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 02 Nov 95 23:15:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TRADE PERIODICALS
Message-ID: <7dd_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: Jrosenti
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 19

 -=> Quoting Jrosenti to All <=-

 Jr> i am interested in metalworking trade magazines, like
 Jr> "american machinist".  if anyone has info to subscibe to any,
 Jr> please reply.

     Source of information: local library. Tell 'em what you want, 
they'll steer you to the _Reader's Guide to Periodical Literature_ 
in the reference section.


... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:50 EST 1995
Article: 18953 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 02 Nov 95 23:43:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSG TO J.P. WIESER ON
Message-ID: <7dc_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: Bill Webster
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 48

 -=> Quoting Bill Webster to All <=-

 BW> J.p., could you have a look at the settings for your newsreader
 BW> software.
     
     I do not have direct access to Usenet; I get 
rec.crafts.metalworking by way of a local BBS, whose sysop, Bob 
Hoffman, has been kind enough to pick it up for me; I have no 
control over what the BBS software does.

 BW> When you Reply, the title becomes capitalized, (it should not be
 BW> altered) and there is no RE: prefix to indicate that you are replying
 BW> to a message.  With the cuurent format, it always looks as if you
 BW> originated the article (as opposed to replying to it).

     I know; there is nothing that I can do about this, except to 
pass your comments along to the sysop. Everything I post goes out 
of here with the Re: prefix on it; his system must be stripping 
that. It would not surprise me if the titles also get truncated, 
making them show up as an entirely new subject...

 BW> Also, it is not necessary to reply to the article and include in your
 BW> text, the entire mailing address of the originator.  This uses up
 BW> valuable bandwidth and storage space.

     Gone.

 BW> Lastly, the software you're using prefixes several spaces, >> and -w>,
 BW> in front of the text.  These are not all necesary, the more common
 BW> single > makes for easier reading.  Again, let's waste less network
 BW> bandwidth and have clearer text content.

     I don't know if my offline reader software will allow me to 
alter this or not. I'll see.

     I don't even get messages to "me," just to "all." This 
presents little problem in a smaller newsgroup like this one, 
but...anyway, thanks for your suggestions. :-)


... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From jperdman@aol.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:51 EST 1995
Article: 18954 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jperdman@aol.com (JPErdman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG QUESTION
Date: 3 Nov 1995 19:20:08 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 23
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <47ebjo$o67@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <47cea0$o17@sanews.uswc.uswest.com>
Reply-To: jperdman@aol.com (JPErdman)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I can't imagine that you're really using an oxygen/argon mix to weld with!
Or was that a test to see if we were paying attention. The whole idea of
MIG is to keep oxygen away from the weld. Molten steel in the presence of
oxygen does strange things  not the least of which is to burn off all the
carbon in the puddle and oxidize (read rust) the iron.   

I suspect that you're really using a 75/25 mix of carbon dioxide and
argon.

To answer your question.. Yes you can use pure argon as a shielding gas
for mild steel. My welders prefer it to the "Stargon" mixture (above)
beecause they are able to weld in close quarters and do it with a lot less
spatter (which is important in some of our work). 

And yes it is a lot more expensive than shielding with the mixture so we
don't do it all the time. We are big enough that we have several cylinders
of each around all the time. On our scale the pain of changing cylinder is
small compared to the amount of gas we consume in a week. So it pays to
change and use pure argon only when we need it.
John Erdman
Greenfield Machine Works     
Costigan, Maine
207-827-5557 


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:52 EST 1995
Article: 18955 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl3.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I need spindle bearing grease suggestions...
Date: 3 Nov 1995 16:02:50 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <47eaja$gu6@crl3.crl.com>
References: <47b4tg$eel@news.cis.nctu.edu.tw> <47djlv$mrd@cdshub.cdc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl3.crl.com

In article <47djlv$mrd@cdshub.cdc.com>,
James Foster x2912 <jaf@a2.mti.cdc.com> wrote:
>I have bought Mobil grease in tubes from auto
>supply stores. I don't know if it's the same type that
>you're looking for, but you might want to call a few
>auto stores and see what they have.

I always used Lubriplate - you can get it at your local bearings supply 
house.

JerryK


From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:53 EST 1995
Article: 18956 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 03 Nov 95 01:49:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: AN OIL PUMPING BEARIN
Message-ID: <7de_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: Jonathan M. Elson
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 96

 -=> Quoting Jonathan M. Elson to All <=-

     In re: South Bend lathe headstock bearings:

 JME> 1.  The bearings can't be cast iron, that's the headstock casting. 
 JME> The  bearings should be babbit metal, or babbit on brass.

     Ah, perhaps not on a South Bend, but...Ian Bradley's fine 
book, _The Amateur's Workshop_ (ISBN 0 85242 482 5), tells us 
that:

     "The [Myford] ML10...lathe has been pruned of any item that 
would...raise the price of the basic machine to an unacceptable 
level...the headstock spindle is hardened and ground and runs 
directly in the iron casting of the headstock, an arrangement that 
should provide bearings having long working life if experience 
with cast iron bearings, extending over many years, is any guide."

     There seem to have been a lot of old beasts with cast iron 
bearings; enough that Lindsay's reprint of the 1925 _Popular 
Mechanics Lathe Handbook No. 1_, which arrived here today, states, 
on page 82:

     "REMOVING HARD SPOTS ON LATHE SPINDLE

     "Mechanics who have operated lathes with cast-iron bearings 
appreciate the difficulty of dressing up a worn lathe spindle. The 
small particles of iron which adhere to the surface of the steel 
are so hard that a Swiss file cannot cut them. A small chisel is 
unsatisfactory for this work, and grinding off the spots with a 
portable grinder gives poor results. A good method is to lap off 
the hard spots with a medium-grain oilstone. When almost down to 
the spindle surface, use a fine-grain stone to finish. A fine 
bearing surface results, particularly if the stone is rubbed 
around the circumference."

     There. A cure for a problem you never even knew about...

     Another machine in which you will often find steel-on-cast- 
iron bearings is in sewing machines; the main head casting of the 
machine is usually bored directly to take the hardened and ground 
bearing surfaces of the steel "main shaft," or whatever you call 
it...

 JME> 2.  Find out if a Timken-roller bearing version of this lathe was
 JME> made, and get a conversion kit, or a complete headstock with Timken
 JME> roller bearings.  This is what I will do soon on my Atlas 10" lathe.  I
 JME> can live with the oil leakage, but constantly having to re-shim the
 JME> bearing caps to keep the spindle aligned with the bed is driving me
 JME> nuts!  I move the chuck-side cap forward or backward, then clamp it
 JME> with the clamp bolts until the spindle is true.  Then I have to do it
 JME> again every so often.

     I have an Atlas H36 sitting here in hulk form. Nice to know 
what fun it'll be <roar>...but seriously, your advice is very well 
taken. The bearings show some wear, but are in decent shape 
considering. I will soon be picking up another 10" Atlas for 
parts, and I'm hoping that it has a Timken-equipped headstock. As 
far as I can see, headstocks are not available at all from 
Clausing. Will you be getting a complete headstock from somewhere 
else, or is there a "conversion kit" on the market for these?

     How much is your machine used before you have to re-adjust 
the bearings? My application is strictly one-man, home-shop hobby 
madness for madness' sake. :-)

     By the way, if you have a conventional factory countershaft 
assembly, I'd appreciate knowing:

     * The O.D. of the motor pulley (Part # 10-428)
     * The O.D. of the large, outboard pulley on the countershaft 
(Part # 560-060)
     * The diameters of the step pulley on the countershaft (Part 
# 10-80)

     According to the parts list, these parts are common to both 
the vertical- and horizontal-type countershaft assemblies.

     The countershaft assembly for my machine is probably still 
screwed securely to a workbench in some chicken shed...you know 
how that goes. Therefore, I'll be fabricating what I need. I 
already have a 1/2 horse, 110 V., capacitor-start drip-proof motor 
that should do the trick, and a nice set of 3/4" bore self- 
aligning bearings in pillow blocks; if I can find out the 
diameters of the pulleys, I'll be able to match the speed tables 
in the handbook.


... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org Sun Nov  5 20:39:53 EST 1995
Article: 18957 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns1.planetc.com!fmlynet!j_p_.wieser
From: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 03 Nov 95 01:37:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: 12 X 36 SHELDON L
Message-ID: <7df_9511031815@fmlynet.org>
X-FTN-To: David J. Campbell Jr.
Organization: FmlyNet
Lines: 22

 -=> Quoting David J. Campbell Jr. to All <=-

 DJCJ> Subject: FS: 12 x 36 Sheldon Lathe, full quick change gearbox, etc ...

     Sounds like a beauty, Dave...why not place an ad in your 
local "Tradin' Times" or similar buy/sell/trade paper? Us HSMs 
read these a lot, and, when I see a lathe for sale in one week's 
issue, it is always gone the next week!

     You could also place an ad in _Home Shop Machinist_ magazine; 
call 1-800-447-7367 for ad info. This reaches a _lot_ of serious 
buyers...not all of us have computers!


... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:54 EST 1995
Article: 18958 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!newsdist.tc.umn.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!hookup!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!netrixgw.netrix.com!holder
From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Subject: Re: Need help old army toolpostgrinder
Message-ID: <DHHsLx.Ixw@netrix.com>
Sender: news@netrix.com
Organization: Netrix Corporation
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <Knut.Pedersen.81.815310146@imp.uib.no>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 00:13:08 GMT
Lines: 16

Knut Pedersen (Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no) wrote:
: Yesterday I got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old sheldon lathe. 
: originaly from a army mobile workshop.
: Among the tools was a toolpost grinder marked Electric IDEAL Tools
: Type GIUX No. 17057, Shauer Machine Co. 110 Volt AC-DC 7000RPM 1/4 HP.
: The rotor is difficult to rotate by hand. Armature resistence 30 Ohm.
: I have not connected it to power yet.
: Does anyone of you with experience have advise ? Do I have to regrease?
: I think it have never been used.
: Knut Pedersen
: University of Bergen
: Norway

  Obviously worn out and useless. Better box it up and ship it to me.

Bruce


From cpollard@csn.net Sun Nov  5 20:39:55 EST 1995
Article: 18959 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!usc!chi-news.cic.net!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!news-2.csn.net!cpollard
From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 5 Nov 1995 01:41:09 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. (303)-296-8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <47h4nl$buu@news-2.csn.net>
References: <47e337$lqm@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22

: - ability to run at very lean mixtures (1:100 fuel/air ratio) 
Doesn't this cause most engines to generate nitrogen oxides?
: - normal HP/weight ratios at very lean mixtures, reducing emissions by 98%
: - very high real world thermal efficiency
What do you mean?  Most engines are quite good at turning energy into heat
- it is quite easy to get 100% - surely you mean mechanical efficiency.
What sort of numbers are you anticipating?


From psh@islandnet.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:56 EST 1995
Article: 18960 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!news.dell.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: houston.jobs.wanted,tamu.jobs.wanted,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: <^><^>  Liquid Gold for Sale, Job Opportunities
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 03:07:22 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <47h6ij$96i@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
References: <476dlg$l7u@access.accesscomm.net> <47glkc$14j@Mars.mcs.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: village.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99a.107

jburnett@MCS.COM (John Burnett) wrote:

>Do you guys have names? Why wouldn't a person sign a post?
>AutoMan, cashflow.com ? Did you mean to post to
>sci.hype.amateur.
>
>john burnett

here is the fellows sig:
Ps.: Don't send flames to me (by hitting the reply key). I am just
giving you a name to go with the ad :)

>                                 _\//__
>                                / _  _ \
>                               (  @  @  )
>~!~!~!~!~!~~----.oOOo-=()=-oOOo.~!~!~!~!
>[ Clark Chancellor                             11907 Chopin Ct.]
>[ Independent Representative                  Cypress, TX 77084]
>[ clarkc@accesscomm.net        Voice Mail 800-684-8253 Ext.2255]
>[ President Cypress Group                      Fax:713-374-7192]
>~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!




From mirek@support.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:57 EST 1995
Article: 18961 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!lavc!lavc!mirek
From: mirek@support.com
Subject: DC MOTORS, DRIVES AND CONTROLS-REPAIR, NEW
Message-ID: <9511042110.0TQYI01@support.com>
References: <8B424C8.014500FA45.uuout@filebank.cts.com>
Organization: L.A. Valley College Public BBS (818)985-7150
X-Mailer: TBBS/PIMP v3.35
Distribution: world
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 95 21:10:34 -0800
Lines: 9


Subject: DC MOTORS, ELECTRONIC DRIVES AND CONTROL PACKAGES-REPAIR, NEW

We supply and repair many brands of DC servo motors, electronic drives and
controls (Baldor, EG&G, Electrocraft, Inland, SEM, Peerless & Winsmith,
Glentek, Yaskawa, Servodynamics, Pacific Scientific, Westamp etc.). We offer
fast turn-around and excellent service.  Please call Potomac Electric at
617-469-0345 or e-mail mirek@support.com for a quote. 
We also do retrofitting and custom product design.


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:57 EST 1995
Article: 18962 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Was: WTB Small used lathe, Now: used machinery
Date: 5 Nov 1995 11:34:40 GMT
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Yes, North Bay is also a dealer for ENCO and other Chinese tools like 
Hercules, I hang around there enough that Sam and Ray, the owners let me 
help clean up the machines and I make some repair parts for them off and 
on.  That particular 14X40 Hercules is sold we put the drive belts on, 
filled the oil sumps an ran the lathe a few days ago. They will probably 
get another Hercules in, in a few weeks. I too still prefer to buy 
American, that Hercules is one of the better finished Chinese lathes I 
have seen in the shop, and they do sell a lot of that particular brand of 
lathe.  You suprised me a bit by saying that you saw their truck at a 
liquidators shop, they don't own a truck, but I bet they do obtain some 
of there mechandise at a Liquidators.  Where is this Liquidator so I can 
check this place out too?.  I am also looking for a good  metal band saw. 
 The place with the leaky roof sounds like Sara Lil  down by Wyoming 
street, what a junk place, get this, the owner of Sara Lil is the brother 
of Sam at Northbay, seems like all the used tool dealers in the metro 
Detroit area know each other real well.  Have you been down to Bobby 
Hargrove's  used machinery shop in Highland Park? Lots of perishable 
tooling and tool room machinery, but nothing is priced and you do have to 
do some searching to find things he is not real organized.  Well , I have 
to get to work now. Bob



From daveb@iinet.net.au Sun Nov  5 20:39:58 EST 1995
Article: 18963 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: daveb@iinet.net.au (David R. Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Square hole drills
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 1995 23:39:47 GMT
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"D.E.Hockin" <Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk> wrote:

[snip re square drills]

>There is another method (proprietory) that was covered by an article
> in either Model Engineer, or Model Engineer's Workshop, last year,
> in which a tool is "wobbled" through the metal, guided by an aperture
> having one less side than that of the desired hole. I cannot remember
[snip]

  Proprietary? I seem to recall hearing of that technique 20 years ago
in the UK. If we are thinking of the same thing, the _drill_ has 1
less flute than the number of sides desired for the hole (ie 3 flutes
for a square), and is formed as a constant-breadth polygon in section.
The guide has a hole basically similar to that desired in the work.
  If someone has filed a patent on that, I wish them luck ...


David R. Brooks <daveb@iinet.net.au>    Tel/fax. +61 9 434 4280



From glen a ray@hp-corvallis.om.hp.com Sun Nov  5 20:39:59 EST 1995
Article: 18964 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glen a ray@hp-corvallis.om.hp.com (glen ray)
Subject: Re: MIG QUESTION
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Hello Geno,
	I believe the gas mix your using is probably CO2 and argon.
You can run just argon. You can also run just CO2. I don't know how
well CO2 will work on aluminium. I never tried it. I used to weld 
Black iron in a "wrought iron" furniture shop. We used mig welders
with just CO2 and it seemed to work fine. Another alternitive is to
use the bottles of mixed gas. Your local welding supply should be able  
to suggest the best mix for your application. (One bottle with CO2 and
argon mixed together)
			Good Luck
                         Glen Ray


From rcook@BIX.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:39 EST 1995
Article: 18965 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: laser vs. acid engraving?
Date: 5 Nov 1995 16:25:12 GMT
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Tom Kreyche wrote:
>I'm ready to build my own laser setup or acid photo-etch setup, yes it
>sounds a bit complex and messy, but what the heck. I'm an electronics
>engineer and ham radio guy but haven't played with lasers (yet). 
>
>Any pointers appreciated!
>
If you can make your own printed circuit boards you can surely acid-etch
your own sundials.

The process isn't difficult. Just coat the stuff you don't want etched with
resist and dunk in acid until done. Swimming pool acid works fine.

However as with any process there are details to watch. For example the
piece must be completely clean and grease-free when it goes into the etch,
you will probably need to agitate the piece, etc.

The best simple explanation of the process I've seen is in "Step by Step
Knifemaking" by David Bowe. Also, do some experiments and make sure you've
got the kinks out before you commit to something you don't want ruined.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:40 EST 1995
Article: 18966 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: 5 Nov 1995 16:48:58 GMT
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Glenn A. Warr wrote:
> Also, if any one knows, is it possible to
>use something as simple as permanent magic marker for the resist
>with the ferric chloride process?

Something as simple, but not a magic marker. Printers supply houses and bit
art supply houses sell resist pens that are loaded with resist. Just use
like a magic marker.

--RC


From jp.wieser@fmlynet.org Wed Nov  8 10:55:42 EST 1995
Article: 18967 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jp.wieser@fmlynet.org (J.p. Wieser)
Date: 05 Nov 95 01:27:00 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ORNAMENTAL TURNING NE
Message-ID: <830_9511051313@fmlynet.org>
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 -=> Quoting -w.millios to All <=-

 -w> interest in OT, why don't we have our own  >newsgroup?  It would be a
 -w> good forum for sharing ideas on methods and  >tooling, especially since
 -w> not all OTers are into metalworking. 

-w> I second this motion.  However, I know nothing about the 
process of
 -w> getting a new newsgroup created.  Perhaps someone who has done it
 -w> before can help?

     I can't help you leave here- and I'll be sorry to see OT go 
as a subject, since I do not have direct Internet access, and 
cannot just pick up whatever conferences I want- but I might have 
some useful info for you.

     A short time ago, I believe that someone was looking for an 
address for a group devoted to OT.

     You might try:

     Society of Ornamental Turners
     2 Parry Dr., Rustington, Littlehampton, Sussex, England BN16 
2QY.

     This came from the book, _Fine Woodworking on: Making and 
Modifying Machines_, Taunton Press, 1986, ISBN 0-918804-43-4.


... LIBERTARIAN- 1-800-682-1776
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
--
|Fidonet:  J.p. Wieser 8:8/0
|Internet: jp.wieser@fmlynet.org
|
| Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own.



From tssymanc@Freenet.Calgary.ab.ca Wed Nov  8 10:55:43 EST 1995
Article: 18968 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tssymanc@Freenet.Calgary.ab.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Making Chainmail armor.
Date: 5 Nov 1995 18:02:27 GMT
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Does anybody else out there make Chainmail armor? If you do, how about
e-mailing me and we can trade time-savers and other tips for making it.

    -Tim



From 75207.61@compuserve.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:44 EST 1995
Article: 18969 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <75207.61@compuserve.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cincinnati Lathe Parts
Date: 5 Nov 1995 19:55:14 GMT
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Can anyone suggest potential sources for used spindle drive gears for the
following Cincinnati "TRAY-TOP" Engine lathe:

Serial Number - 1W3J5B-153
Size - 15 X 60
Year - 1954
Gear Part Numbers: 601548, 600223, 600233
(All fit 15" and 18" models)

Thank you,

John R.


From admjaba@io.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:45 EST 1995
Article: 18970 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: admjaba@io.com (Admiral Jaba)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Nichrome Wire
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 22:31:14 GMT
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rmm20@eng.amdahl.com wrote:

>All of a sudden, the world turned when I was not looking,
>and Nichrome wire seems to have vanished from the market.
>Anyone have suggestions on where to look for small guage
>Nichrome resistance wire?
>
>I need it for a couple of projects like glue pots and wax injectors.
>
>I have tried a number of electrical houses and hardware stores,
>with no luck.
>
> - Thanks - Robert Mitchell
>

You can also try local packaging machine houses.  It is used as a seal
wire for shrink wrap.  But there is only a couple differnt sizes they
carry.

laters...



From dar@shore.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:46 EST 1995
Article: 18971 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dimitri Rotow <dar@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Corrosion data on COR-TEN steel, Stainless steel, aluminum
Date: 5 Nov 1995 23:02:28 GMT
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A wonderful book covering corrision of these materials (and many, many more) is 
"Metal Corrosion in Boats" by Nigel Warren, Adlard Coles Nautical, London, ISBN 
0-7136-3479.   Regrettably, this only covers corrosion in sea or fresh water, but has 
a lot of interesting notes regarding nonstandard conditions (eg, stress corrosion of 
titanium above 300C in dry salt...).

-- 
Dimitri Rotow     dar@shore.net




From dar@shore.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:46 EST 1995
Article: 18972 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dimitri Rotow <dar@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: (no subject)
Date: 5 Nov 1995 23:05:45 GMT
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Hello all.  I'm looking for suppliers of large size (a meter or so wide by meters in 
length) of fairly thick (ie, 4mm and up) metal plate in copper-nickel and other 
nickel alloys.  I'm involved in a project to weld up a boat using cupronickel or 
other nickel alloy instead of the usual steel or aluminum route and would like to get 
a reality check against pricing and supply.  Thanks in advance for any help.

-- 

Dimitri Rotow     dar@shore.net




From xlch58@netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:47 EST 1995
Article: 18974 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Sears lathe
Message-ID: <xlch58DHLG96.2yA@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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Vince1949 (vince1949@aol.com) wrote:
: FYI in the mid 80's Sears repackaged the Shirline mill & Lathe and sold
: them as Sears brand. I bought both.  They were black alum , and identical
: to the Shirline products except for labels.

They also sold EMCO MAIER lathes in the 80s


From rodgerp218@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:48 EST 1995
Article: 18975 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rodgerp218@aol.com (RodgerP218)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gold Plating Service
Date: 5 Nov 1995 20:45:52 -0500
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November 1, 1995

Press Release:

Starting up a Metal Electroplating Service:
20 years experience 

We will be supporting the research and development market with engineering
companies and universities.

Will be open to experimental finishing also.
If you do not see what your working with please drop
us a e-mail.

Metals:

Nickel, Heavy
Nickel, Bright
Tin
Cadmium
Zinc
Copper
Brass
Silver
Gold
Lead
Indium
Special Alloy

Examples of what we specialize in:

Circuit Board Repair
Aircraft Parts - Small
Corroded Valves
Circuit Breakers for ships - all industries
Valve Stems
Slip Rings
Buss Bars
Small Electric Motor Shafts 
Impeller Shafts
Gears - Shaft
Mold Repair for Plastic - Rubber - Glass Molding Manufacture
Small Sculpture - Jewelry - Museum Restorations
Aluminum Anodizing  
  
This is only a small cross section of our finishing.

We require customer to ship to us and have a call tag
to pick-up when parts are finished.

Let us know if we can be of service.

R.P. Coatings 
U.S.A.
Internet: RodgerP218@AOl.com




From probus@cnj.digex.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:49 EST 1995
Article: 18976 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 6 Nov 1995 02:06:41 GMT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
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In article <47h4nl$buu@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net says...
>
>: - ability to run at very lean mixtures (1:100 fuel/air ratio) 
>Doesn't this cause most engines to generate nitrogen oxides?
>: - normal HP/weight ratios at very lean mixtures, reducing emissions by 98%
>: - very high real world thermal efficiency
>What do you mean?  Most engines are quite good at turning energy into heat
>- it is quite easy to get 100% - surely you mean mechanical efficiency.
>What sort of numbers are you anticipating?

I'm afraid you're quite mistaken.  For thermal efficiency, the Carnot cycle is 
the ideal efficiency.  The _only_ way to get 100% thermal efficiency is if the 
exhaust gas coming out of an engine is at a temperature of absolute zero, 
although you can approach 100% efficiency if you can raise the burning 
temperature to near infinity.  If I remember my thermodynamics correctly, the 
_best_ (ie. Carnot) thermal efficiency of a gasoline engine is about 60%.  I 
believe, if I remember correctly, that the average gasoline automotive engine 
is less than 20% efficient, but, remember, I going from memory :).

Here's the thermal efficiency for a Carnot engine:

             T
              L
N   =  1 - ------
 th          T
              H

Where 

N  = Thermal efficiency
 th

T  = Lower temperature reservoir (or exhaust temperature in an IC)
 L

T  = Higher temperature reservoir (or the temperature of the gasoline burning)
 H


Hope that clears things up a little.

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net



From probus@cnj.digex.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:50 EST 1995
Article: 18977 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 6 Nov 1995 02:31:29 GMT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
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In article <47jqjh$tt@news4.digex.net>, probus@cnj.digex.net says...
>
>In article <47h4nl$buu@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net says...
>>
>>: - ability to run at very lean mixtures (1:100 fuel/air ratio) 
>>Doesn't this cause most engines to generate nitrogen oxides?
>>: - normal HP/weight ratios at very lean mixtures, reducing emissions by 98%
>>: - very high real world thermal efficiency
>>What do you mean?  Most engines are quite good at turning energy into heat
>>- it is quite easy to get 100% - surely you mean mechanical efficiency.
>>What sort of numbers are you anticipating?
>
>I'm afraid you're quite mistaken.  For thermal efficiency, the Carnot cycle is 
>the ideal efficiency.  The _only_ way to get 100% thermal efficiency is if the 
>exhaust gas coming out of an engine is at a temperature of absolute zero, 
>although you can approach 100% efficiency if you can raise the burning 
>temperature to near infinity.  If I remember my thermodynamics correctly, the 
>_best_ (ie. Carnot) thermal efficiency of a gasoline engine is about 60%.  I 
>believe, if I remember correctly, that the average gasoline automotive engine 
>is less than 20% efficient, but, remember, I going from memory :).
>
(Carnot Efficiency equation erased)

I may have been misleading in my posting.  The Carnot cycle is the best that 
*any* thermal engine (internal or external combustion) can approach.  The Otto 
cycle has it's own efficiency equation (it's a bit more complicated, but it's 
in any Thermodynamics textbook), and I believe that the Otto cycle efficiency 
for a gasoline engine is about 30% (again, going by memory).  That's the best 
efficency that a gasoline engine running on the Otto cycle can hope to achieve, 
however, a gasoline engine running on the Carnot cycle (no such engine esists, 
BTW) can hope to achieve 60% efficiency.  

Now, I hope that clears things up a little.

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net




From gwhite@tiac.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:51 EST 1995
Article: 18979 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Book on Dremel MotoTools?
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 95 04:11:28 GMT
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A friend of mine mentioned that he was looking for a book about using 
Dremel MotoTools.  He said he had heard of one called something like 
'1001 Uses for the Dremel MotoTool'.  He didn't have much more to go on, 
but was under the impression that it had a lot of good stuff in it.

Does anyone out there have a copy, or know the correct title and where 
they are available?  It may or may not have any connection with the 
Dremel company.  The local model shop has heard of something like this, 
but has never seen a copy.

Thanks!

Doug White


From RJBrown123@msn.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:52 EST 1995
Article: 18980 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: RJBrown123@msn.com (Richard Brown)
Subject: RE: Need source: fine mesh screen
Date: 6 Nov 95 03:05:42 -0800
References: <Pine.OSF.3.91.951031173409.24730A-100000@odin.cbu.edu>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+000018cd@msn.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 15

Check out this source:

Small Parts Incorporated
13980 N.W. 58th Court
P.O. Box 4650
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650
telephone 1-800-2200-4242

Their catalog lists several screen materials including stainless 
steel, nylon, and polypropylene.  Mesh sizes range from 6 through as 
high as 400!

Hope this helps.

RJBrown


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:55:52 EST 1995
Article: 18981 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AN OIL PUMPING BEARIN
Date: 6 Nov 1995 05:33:59 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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J.p. Wieser (J_p_.Wieser@fmlynet.org) wrote:
:  -=> Quoting Jonathan M. Elson to All <=-

:  JME> 2.  Find out if a Timken-roller bearing version of this lathe was
:  JME> made, and get a conversion kit, or a complete headstock with Timken
:  JME> roller bearings.  This is what I will do soon on my Atlas 10" lathe.  I
:  JME> can live with the oil leakage, but constantly having to re-shim the
:  JME> bearing caps to keep the spindle aligned with the bed is driving me
:  JME> nuts!  I move the chuck-side cap forward or backward, then clamp it
:  JME> with the clamp bolts until the spindle is true.  Then I have to do it
:  JME> again every so often.

:      I have an Atlas H36 sitting here in hulk form. Nice to know 
: what fun it'll be <roar>...but seriously, your advice is very well 
: taken. The bearings show some wear, but are in decent shape 
: considering. I will soon be picking up another 10" Atlas for 
: parts, and I'm hoping that it has a Timken-equipped headstock. As 
: far as I can see, headstocks are not available at all from 
: Clausing. Will you be getting a complete headstock from somewhere 
: else, or is there a "conversion kit" on the market for these?

Clausing referred me to 'John Boegeman' who has made molds for some
of the parts of the Atlas, and remanufactures them.  I bought a quick-
change gearbox from him for $500 when I had an accident with the
carriage feed and did some major damage to the gear train.  The rebuilt
quick-change box looked NEW!  It still is visibly cleaner and newer looking
than the rest of the lathe.  He replaced all the bearings, and replaced
a few worn gears - it runs very well.  He has quoted me a price of
$250 for a rebuilt headstock with timken bearings - he replaces the
bearings and does any other refurbishment needed.  My lathe is an
H42, according to Clausing.  I have bought the 'scroll' which closes
the carriage nut from Clausing, and after I got their parts guide
I found out that someone took the bed wipers off, and ordered replacements
for them, too.


:      How much is your machine used before you have to re-adjust 
: the bearings? My application is strictly one-man, home-shop hobby 
: madness for madness' sake. :-)

Well, it seems that I don't need to readjust it more than once every few
years, but I think there is some wander in the spindle, and the oil loss
is a real problem.  I just about locked up the spindle 2 weeks ago,
because the oil cup ran dry - which happens every 4-5 minutes at high
spindle speed.

:      By the way, if you have a conventional factory countershaft 
: assembly, I'd appreciate knowing:

:      * The O.D. of the motor pulley (Part # 10-428)

Standing in front of the lathe, the left sheave is 4.5", the right -
closest to the motor is 1.75.

:      * The O.D. of the large, outboard pulley on the countershaft 
: (Part # 560-060)

The drive pulley on the countershaft is left 7.5", right 9.25"

:      * The diameters of the step pulley on the countershaft (Part 
: # 10-80)

The step pulleys from the left are 6", 5", 4", 3"
The motor is 1/2 Hp, 1725 RPM.  The pulley measurements are from the
outside diameter of the pulley, not the pitch diameter that the belt runs at.




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:55:53 EST 1995
Article: 18982 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Questions about lathe strength
Date: 6 Nov 1995 05:08:52 GMT
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JCarducci (jcarducci@aol.com) wrote:
<snip>
: Obviously I can't see the the 2 machines close up;  the second (more
: expensive ) machine looks bigger with heavier components but the lesser
: machine doesn't look THAT much different. There is almost 
: 900 pounds difference in weight. Perhaps the stand is heavier.

The real question is how sturdy the BED is.  Weight is not the entire
answer, putting the bulk where it will provide maximum stiffness against
both flexing and twisting, is.

: as mine would be. And there is nothing preventing me from offsetting
: that tailstock....... is there?

We got a Chinese 'three-in-one, mill/drill/lathe' machine from Enco at
work.  It has no way to offset the tailstock!  Not even to correct for
wear or machining tolerances.  I find it hard to believe that any real
dedicated lathe would omit this feature, but make sure to ask before
ordering.
I have a 50+ year old Atlas 10" at home, got it for $750 out of some
guy's basement.  It wasn't too bad compared to some of the horror stories
I've heard on this newsgroup.  I've added a quick-change box, and will
get a Timken-bearing headstock to replace the babbit bearing one.
I firmly believe that used US- (or British) made tools are your best
value.
:  
: Jerry Carducci
: What abend, I didn't touch THAT routine! It's not my fault. I need another
: cup of coffee!

When working in an IBM 360/370/etc shop, there is no Guten Abend!


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:54 EST 1995
Article: 18983 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (Jim Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for Fret Saw Blades for metal
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 02:08:47 GMT
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <47jpiq$b2u@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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I suddenly find myself in need of very thin metal cutting saw blades
that will fit a fret saw. Does anyone have a source for these?
Surprisingly, MSC only carries the wood blades, and for a dyed in the
wool MSC addict, this is pretty disconcerting!

Any ideas?

Thanks

Jim Harvey
jhre@ix.netcom.com
hre@localweb.com
http://www.wp.com/HarveyRacing



From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:55:55 EST 1995
Article: 18984 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Message-ID: <1995Nov6.072148.234@xavier.xu.edu>
From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Date: 6 Nov 95 07:21:48 EST
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>Stamped on the body of the chuck is "RJ3-16L".  Am I to assume that this 
>is a "3JT" taper?  Will a 33JT taper tool fit okay?

Don't assume RJ3 = 3JT. My Sears drill press has a threaded on chuck. The one 
we have at work (non-sears) is also threaded on. Try to unthread the chuck. My 
Sears chuck as a ring that sits right above the chuck (actually it is part of 
the chuck) and the ring has several holes in it (three I think) that you can 
put the handle of the chuck key in and unscrew the chuck. It may take a pipe 
wrench to unscrew it the first time. Good luck.

Kevin P.



From elisha@slip.net Wed Nov  8 10:55:55 EST 1995
Article: 18985 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: elisha@slip.net (Elisha Couchman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help! Want to cast silverware
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 17:24:38 -0800
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <elisha-0511951724380001@sfsp39.slip.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sfsp39.slip.net

Hi! Just started reading this newsgroup and wondered if anyone has info on
designing and casting custom silverware? Any ideas, sources, information
and past experiences are greatly appreciated. Please email me. Thanks in
advance!
-elisha      elisha@slip.net


From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Wed Nov  8 10:55:56 EST 1995
Article: 18986 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG QUESTION
Date: 6 Nov 1995 11:19:06 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <47kqva$12tg@serra.unipi.it>
References: <47cea0$o17@sanews.uswc.uswest.com> <DHKt83.E1D@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>
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In article <DHKt83.E1D@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>, glen a ray@hp-corvallis.om.hp.com (glen ray) says:
>
>Hello Geno,
>        I believe the gas mix your using is probably CO2 and argon.
>You can run just argon. You can also run just CO2. I don't know how
>well CO2 will work on aluminium. I never tried it. I used to weld 

I tried. It dont work. You can see aluminum drops running around the
shop, but no welding not a poor welding absolutely no welding.

>Black iron in a "wrought iron" furniture shop. We used mig welders
>with just CO2 and it seemed to work fine. Another alternitive is to
>use the bottles of mixed gas. Your local welding supply should be able  
>to suggest the best mix for your application. (One bottle with CO2 and
>argon mixed together)

I have found a "guru" of welding and it said me that argon is must for
aluminium.

Paolo
                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Wed Nov  8 10:55:57 EST 1995
Article: 18987 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 12:00:56 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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"Glenn A. Warr" <Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com> wrote:

>Recently there was a posting about photoetching brass,  It was
>stated that ferric chloride could be used as the etchant.  

I've never had any luck with ferric chloride. It works fine on PCBs,
but for engraving sheet I found it too slow at cutting the useful
stuff and so the resist started to pinhole. I switched to using an
ammonium persulphate based etchant and that was much better.
Unfortunately I've lost the recipe for it - has anyone else used it ?



--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?



From wwebster@bnr.ca Wed Nov  8 10:55:58 EST 1995
Article: 18988 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q: How to use a chucking reamer?
Date: 6 Nov 1995 13:37:23 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

I'm making a cylinder for my model airplane engine.  The finished bore
should be .410".

I've seen in catalogs a few differnet types of chucking reamers.  In
particular, a spiral and straight type.  Which is the type of reamer I
should use for my application?  My final fitting will be hand lapped.

And, how do you properly use a chucking reamer in a lathe?  I'd expect,
generous amounts of cutting fluid, go slow.  Is the reamer held in the
tailstock with a collet?  Or, is a chuck used?

Lastly, how much material should be left for the reamer to ream?

Thanks in advance.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   WWEBSTER@BNR.CA


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Wed Nov  8 10:55:59 EST 1995
Article: 18989 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Fret Saw Blades for metal
Date: 6 Nov 1995 13:50:40 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Try  The Olson Saw Company 16 Stoney Hill Rd. Bethel, Ct 06801 Tel. 203-
792-8622  Fax 203-790-9832



From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:55:59 EST 1995
Article: 18990 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Message-ID: <1995Nov6.075052.235@xavier.xu.edu>
From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Date: 6 Nov 95 07:50:52 EST
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>is a "3JT" taper?  Will a 33JT taper tool fit okay?

I forgot to add this... a 33JT is not the same as a 3JT.



From dar@shore.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:00 EST 1995
Article: 18991 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!shore!northshore.shore.net!not-for-mail
From: dar@shore.net (Dimitri A. Rotow)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: seeking cupronickel plate
Date: 6 Nov 1995 09:18:28 -0500
Organization: North Shore Access/Eco Software, Inc; (info@shore.net)
Lines: 15
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NNTP-Posting-Host: northshore.ecosoft.com
Summary: seeking cupronickel plate suppliers
Keywords: cupronickel, nickel, copper alloy

Hello again.  I'm reposting this since last post was done while using a 
new (brain-dead) reader/mailer that messed up format and stripped out the
subject!

Does anyone know of a supplier for copper-nickel alloy (90-10, 70-30, 
etc.) in large plate sizes of suitable thickness (4mm and up) for use 
in welded boat hull construction?  I'm involved in a boat hull project 
that uses cupronickel or other nickel alloy as an alternative to steel 
or aluminum and we'd like to get a reality check on pricing and supply.
Thanks in advance for any help.  Also would appreciate any tips or advice
>from  people with experience building large stuctures using copper-nickel 
alloy.

Dimitri Rotow    dar@shore.net



From ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Wed Nov  8 10:56:01 EST 1995
Article: 18992 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ken Toews)
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Message-ID: <DHMMqq.FqK@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: ar367@freenet3.carleton.ca (Ken Toews)
Reply-To: ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ken Toews)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
References:  <47l4fv$s2f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 14:54:26 GMT
Lines: 50

PaulS77 (pauls77@aol.com) writes:

>>>>SNIP<<<<
>.... Indexing Center.   It got me wondering why horizontal mills have
seemingly
> been replaced by vertical spindle mills of the Bridgeport type?  Does
> anyone know when and why vertical milling became the norm?  Any comments
> on the relative merits of each?  
>>>>>>SNIP<<<<<


A horizontal machine is nice, in fact its the most cost effective way
to machine through slots, some gears, some broaches, some keyways and its nice
for a change, but in most shops they sit idle 95% of the time.

The verticle machines have a number of over riding advantages
-Cost, the horizontal machines are usually heavier duty, have
2 spindles, heavier power feed, are better built for heavy
cuts, some have tables that can be offset/rotated ect and are therefore more
expensive.
-Ergonomics, The spindle is right in front of you, you can see what you
are doing, on a horizontal machine you have the cutter behind
the table or you add an adapter to imitate a verticle machine.
-Type of work being done,
-Its difficult to cut a pocket, recess, or drill on a H machine,it
can be done, its just a little more awkward, and a little more
awkward make a big differnce in a machine shop.
-Drilling is probably a good a reason as any, its amazing
how much drilling takes place on your basic Bridgeport.
-Ergonomics, again, the basic Bridgeport is a nice machine to operate,
it fits. Most horizontal machines are heavier duty, more
awkward to operate, and without accesories are not as
versatile.
-Given the choice of putting a horizontal adapter on a Bridgeport
once every couple of months or rearranging a horizontal machine
every couple of days, for most work I would choose the Bridgeport
if I was paying the bills.

Some of the best made machines thought are horizontal, and your
right, they are nice to operate, especially if you have
to machine a Involute curve on a tapered shaft

Hope this helps.
 

--
Email From:        | 
Ken Toews          | 
Nepean Ontario     |    
Canada             | Apathy is the apex of normalcy.


From pauls77@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:02 EST 1995
Article: 18993 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pauls77@aol.com (PaulS77)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Horizontal Heaven
Date: 6 Nov 1995 09:01:35 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I recently purchased a book published in 1937 by the Brown & Sharpe Mfg.
Co. of Providence RI, entitled: "A Practical Treatise on Milling and
Milling Machines".  It's quite a fascinating look at the B&S Universal and
Plain Mills of the period.  These were horizontal arbor machines.  The
prowess of these mills at a multitude of toolroom operations is shown and
described in glorious detail.  Especially interesting is the section
devoted to milling spirals with the (standard equiptment) Universal Spiral
Indexing Center.   It got me wondering why horizontal mills have seemingly
been replaced by vertical spindle mills of the Bridgeport type?  Does
anyone know when and why vertical milling became the norm?  Any comments
on the relative merits of each?  

We feel quite lucky to have an old Burke horizontal mill in our shop.  It
is a small knee mill with a 16" table.  The spindle is driven by v- belts
on cone-pulleys with a total of six speeds available. It has a gear-head
motor hung off a massive cast iron stand.  The table is auto-feed, driven
by pulleys with a takeoff from the rear of the spindle.  A brass plaque on
the side proudly proclaims that it is equipped with Timken Roller
Bearings.  

The arbor is supported by an overarm with a bushed center that fits in the
arbor's end.  The arbor is 7/8" diameter, and we sure would like to find a
replacement (it's out 2-3 thou).  It is taper fitted into the spindle and
I'm not sure of the taper type or size.  Any info or leads on that would
be most welcome.  

I inherited this machine from my Dad, but I really  don't know much about
it's history.  Does anyone know the history of Burke mills? Are they still
around or are there any parts/attachments still available?  Are there any
other fans of the horizontal mills out there, or am I the only one in
horizontal heaven?

Paul Schiller
PDA Panache
Hand Crafted For The Digital Age


From hess@netstar.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:03 EST 1995
Article: 18994 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.bluesky.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!usenet
From: Roger Hess <hess@netstar.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Comments wanted -Tennsmith 16 ga bending brake
Date: 6 Nov 1995 17:35:46 GMT
Organization: Minnesota Regional Network (MRNet)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <47lh1i$1ps@news.mr.net>
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I am looking for user comments on the Tennsmith 48" 16 ga finger brake.  I've only been able to 
see the similar imported models and I was not impressed with the construction (welds broken 
during shipping!!).  I've been told that this model is made in the US, but in pictures it looks 
so similar to the imports that I wonder if they are just tacking their own label on an import.

Any comments on this unit or Tennsmith in general would be appreciated.

Thanks.





From jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU Wed Nov  8 10:56:04 EST 1995
Article: 18995 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!euler.Berkeley.EDU!jmorton
From: jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Date: 6 Nov 1995 20:52:04 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <47lshk$1gi@agate.berkeley.edu>
References: <47l4fv$s2f@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <DHMMqq.FqK@freenet.carleton.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: euler.berkeley.edu

In article <DHMMqq.FqK@freenet.carleton.ca>,
Ken Toews <ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:
>PaulS77 (pauls77@aol.com) writes:
>
>>It got me wondering why horizontal mills have
>>seemingly
>> been replaced by vertical spindle mills of the Bridgeport type?  
>
>-Given the choice of putting a horizontal adapter on a Bridgeport
>once every couple of months or rearranging a horizontal machine
>every couple of days, for most work I would choose the Bridgeport
>if I was paying the bills.

Yes, there is no doubt that the vertical has the edge.  Paul makes
several good points, but does not include an example of a type that
really makes a horizontal pay off.  Try this:  mill a 2" x 4" steel bar 
down to 2" x 3.5".  Even a small horizontal will do this in a couple
of cuts, 15 min. or so for a 24" long piece, plus some for setup
and cleanup.  Try that with your horizontal attachment!  BTW Ken's
machine is not in the range of what you (used to) see in machine
shops; the smallest are usually over 2000 lbs.

>Some of the best made machines thought are horizontal, and your
>right, they are nice to operate, especially if you have
>to machine a Involute curve on a tapered shaft

They are definitely vastly better than verticals, with solid 
gearboxes, 3-axis feeds, sturdy construction.  However that "must
have" job usually never happens (e.g. the involute on a taper)
except in the manual :-).
>
>Hope this helps.
> 
>
>--
>Email From:        | 
>Ken Toews          | 
>Nepean Ontario     |    
>Canada             | Apathy is the apex of normalcy.



John Morton			     Mechanical Engineering Machine Shop
jmorton@euler.me.berkeley.edu	     University of California at Berkeley


From darkstar@u.washington.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:04 EST 1995
Article: 18996 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!darkstar
From: darkstar@u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying Used Machinery
Date: 6 Nov 1995 20:45:03 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <47ls4f$diu@nntp4.u.washington.edu>
References: <47du63$k0f@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <0GtcmSMRym0D078yn@ibm.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: homer19.u.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-User: darkstar

clear@ibm.net (Charlie Lear) writes:

>In article <47du63$k0f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
>mdna1941@aol.com (MDNA1941) wrote:
>> To order write, phone or fax [...] Say you saw us on the Internet.

>Too much effort and expense.  What about email?  Get with the program,
>guys!

I'm sure they will.  BTW, I have an unsolicited good thing to say about 
them: I sent them a description of what I was looking for, and (without 
asking me or charging me money) they put it on a fax newsletter.  The 
next thing I knew a dealer from CA was calling me to tell me that he had 
what I wanted (our milling machine.)  

YMMV. 

Alden and Cali Hackmann
Olympic Instruments - makers of fine hurdy-gurdies
PO Box 166, Indianola WA 98342
360-297-7234 (yes, 360 - ask the operator for help if it doesn't work) 
darkstar@u.washington.edu
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/
 
-- 
Alden F.M. Hackmann                        darkstar@u.washington.edu
Web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/    
"Clear analysis of any situation is frequently mistaken for pessimism."


From post@ithaca.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:05 EST 1995
Article: 18997 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!usc!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!www.ithaca.edu!news
From: Todd Post <post@ithaca.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: (no subject)
Date: 6 Nov 1995 18:49:33 GMT
Organization: Outwater's Militia
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <47llbt$9j6@www.ithaca.edu>
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I am interested in reproducing an 18th century wood lathe.  I have plans 
but am having difficulty finding deadcenters.  Please send me any 
information that might point me in the right direction.

Thank you.

Todd Post
Post@ithaca.edu




From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:06 EST 1995
Article: 18998 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 21:09:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Ornamental Turning NEWSGROUP
Message-ID: <101260103@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <NEWTNews.6112.815142353.tabco@acc11022.slip.digex.net.digex.net>
Lines: 26

For what it's worth, a mailing list is generally easy to set up if one of
the members has a decent Internet access provider with mailing software, like
majordomo.  (At least, so I've heard.  Never ran a list, but I've subscribed
to a few and know one or two list-owners.)

Lists are good ways to handle low traffic groups.  If the traffic starts
getting out of hand, you can shift to a periodic digest.  The HPV--
Human Powered Vehicle list sends out digests daily or whenver there's
600+ lines of posts, whichever comes first.  Other groups may have had
a post every couple of weeks, while yet another group generally had
a 2000+ line daily digest.

It takes little work to set up a list (again, or so I'm told), and with
software like majordomo, it takes little effort to keep it running.  The
last list that I mentioned didn't have good software, so it took the
list owner a few hours per week to run the list, but that one had
several thousand readers.  I'd guess that an ornamental turning mail list
could be up and running with less hassle than even getting a rec.whatever
group created.

By the way, the last time I saw, you needed 100 more 'yea' votes than
'nays'.  Are there more than a couple hundered ornamental turners in the
world?  How many of them are on the net?

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:07 EST 1995
Article: 18999 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 21:23:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Mail Order Steel Supplier?
Message-ID: <101260104@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <48@thegalaxy.win.net>
Lines: 11

In California, it's something like Aircraft Spruce and Supply company.  You
can check the rec.bicycles.* faq or look at the ihpva web site (under
sources).  Try http://130.157.33.2    (I think that's www.ihpva.org, but
I'm not sure.  That's what works in my netscape bookmark file.)

BTW, these sources sell mail order.  If you need/want more exotic shapes,
like butted tubing or tapered stuff, one good source is Cyclopedia, in
Adrian, Michigan.  See the ihvpa faq or rec.bike faq list for details.

Pete Brooks



From ddc@euphonix.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:07 EST 1995
Article: 19000 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.emf.net!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!coyote.euphonix.com!usenet
From: David Clementson <ddc@euphonix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SB Lathe Gear: Can't Dissassemble
Date: 6 Nov 1995 19:41:53 GMT
Organization: Euphonix Inc.
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Help!!

 I've disassembled my 1939 South Bend 10" down to the last gear, and I 
can't get it apart!!  This is the gear that is on the apron pinion shaft 
that transmits the power feed from the leadscrew to the longitudinal 
feed rack.  It is clearly pinned to its shaft; one end of the pin is 
clearly larger than the other, so I have assumed that it is a taper pin 
(as are used on other parts of the apron).  I can't see any evidence of 
threading or other fastening that would prevent the pin from being driven 
out.  

I have tried everything to get it out short of drilling it through and 
collapsing it.  I filed the small end of the pin flush with the gear body 
to eliminate any mushrooming of the pin end.  I've tried slotting the top 
of the pin to try to twist it out.  I've heated the gear.  I've used 
every kind of penetrating oil and solvent.  I drilled a dimple in the 
small end of the pin to locate the tip of a pin punch.  I have beat the 
daylights out of the pin, bent two punches on it, yet it refuses to move. 
 Actually, when I looked at it under a microscope, it appeared that the 
pin had actually moved _in_ just a little, maybe 0.001"!  

I have three questions:  

1. Is this thing really a taper pin, or am I trying to drive out some 
kind of threaded or welded part?  If anyone else has taken apart a South 
Bend apron, let me know what you found.

2.  If this _is_ a taper pin, how did it get so frozen in place?  Cold 
welding?

3.  How do I get it out?  I'm assuming that I'm going to have to drill it 
and collapse it.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make sure my 
drill stays concentric with the pin?  How do I actually collapse it?  

Any help is greatly appreciated, as I'm getting desperate!  

Thanks!  

DC



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:08 EST 1995
Article: 19001 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need 7/16" Belleville washer
Message-ID: <1995Nov6.082835.653@flying-disk.com>
Date: 6 Nov 95 08:28:35 PST
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 12

I need exactly one 7/6" ID Belleville (conical) spring-type
washer to repair a tool.   My Scottish ancestors would be
unhappy with me if I bought a package of 100, so I am hoping
that someone here has one that they can spare.

Thanks,
Alan

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:09 EST 1995
Article: 19002 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!sun!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: Victrola springs
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
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Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <DH3z36.Iqy@adra.com> <471cgk$mfv@calvino.alaska.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 20:21:58 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <471cgk$mfv@calvino.alaska.net>, <rmorris@alaska.net> wrote: >>
mac <mac@adra.com> writes: > >> Does anyone know . . . where I can buy the
flat >> spring material so I can wind new one? >> >> >>>>> > >What size? 

I haven't done this, but there are parallels to clock repair.
You'll need to make a spring winding machine.  Details are available in
any clock repair book.  You can make a clip to hold a wound spring by
bending a piece of 5/16" or so steel rod into a C of the appropriate
diameter.  More than likely, the spring will have broken at one end or the
other, in which case it can be repaired.  Let down the hardness of the
spring by heating it red and letting it cool slowly (burying the end in
sand works), and then punch or drill a new eye.  Re-assemble in reverse
order and be sure the spring is oiled. 
  The name of the group in question is rec.antiques.radio+phono.  Those 
guys can restore absolutely anything.  
                                        Mark Kinsler
     


From post@ithaca.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:10 EST 1995
Article: 19003 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.emf.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.corpcomm.net!news3.net99.net!news.cais.net!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!www.ithaca.edu!news
From: Todd Post <post@ithaca.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: (no subject)
Date: 6 Nov 1995 18:46:07 GMT
Organization: Outwater's Militia
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Message-ID: <47ll5f$9j6@www.ithaca.edu>
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	I am trying to get started in blacksmithing for a Revolutionary War era 
group.  So far I have a 140 lbs. anvil and a vise that needs some 
repair.  I would welcome any advice anyone would have.


Todd Post
Post@ithaca.edu




From darylb@bnr.ca Wed Nov  8 10:56:11 EST 1995
Article: 19004 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: laser vs. acid engraving?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 16:51:32 +0000
Organization: bnr
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-061195165132@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <47cenr$7o6@nkosi.well.com> <47ioh8$maq@news2.delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <47ioh8$maq@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) wrote:

> Tom Kreyche wrote:
> >I'm ready to build my own laser setup or acid photo-etch setup, yes it
> >sounds a bit complex and messy, but what the heck. I'm an electronics
> >engineer and ham radio guy but haven't played with lasers (yet). 
> >
> >Any pointers appreciated!
> >
> If you can make your own printed circuit boards you can surely acid-etch
> your own sundials.
> 
> The process isn't difficult. Just coat the stuff you don't want etched with
> resist and dunk in acid until done. Swimming pool acid works fine.

You should just go to an Electronics supply (components) store and get the
PCB stuff. MG chemicals (Kodak) has stuff called KPR. The whole process as
basically photographic.  And rather than acid get some etchent like ferric
chlorid or ammonium persulphate. Much more user freindly.
I did my own Sundial this way and being a neanderthal I did it in 3/8"
brass (18"dia) with a 1/2" thick gnomen so it wouldn't flex and give bad
time. My gnomen is etched on both sides but if you hear of a good way of
doing this (other than extreme caution against scratches) let me know. I
have an astrolabe design ready to go but have to do a lot of double sided
etching and unless I hear something good soon I'll start enquiring about
farming it out.


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:11 EST 1995
Article: 19005 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MIG on Stainless
Date: 6 Nov 1995 17:09:00 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <47lffc$msn@news1.svc>
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Anybody heard of welding stainless steel with a MIG?

If so, what gas and power are required for, say, metal
up to 1/8"?

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From cpollard@csn.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:14 EST 1995
Article: 19006 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 6 Nov 1995 22:26:39 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. (303)-296-8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <47m22v$gic@news-2.csn.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


I don't believe the ratio of mechanical output to heat input is called
thermal efficiency - it is called efficiency or in your case Carnot cycle
efficiency.  A good example of a 100% thermal efficiency is a stalled
electric motor - 100% of the energy going in is converted into (thermal )
heat energy.

So- definitions aside what do you claim for work output for thermal enrgy
input?


From pdrumm@wis.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:15 EST 1995
Article: 19007 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!newsie.wis.com!usenet
From: pdrumm@wis.com (P)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: High Temp Stainless tube
Date: 5 Nov 1995 23:18:17 GMT
Organization: Wisconsin Internet Services
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <47jgnp$gjt@newsie.wis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp022-waus.wis.com
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.2]

Does anyone here know which type (ie. 310,321,etc) stainless steel would be 
the best for use in a combustion chamber? I've looked at Machinery's 
Handbook, it suggests type 310, but I'd like to get some more input on this 
before I go out and buy it. Also, I'm looking for a U.S. supplier for this 
who would be willing to sell less than a full length of tubing(~6 feet is 
needed). Specifically, I need seamless mechanical tubing, 2" ID with a .250" 
wall. The temperature encountered would be around 2000-2500 deg F (this is 
a guess, if anyone can tell me what temp diesel fuel/compressed air burns 
at, pipe up!) for up to 16 hours/day. Thanks....

pdrumm@wis.com
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
.."Most users of high-end applications... want OS/2." --- Bill Gates, Winter 1990




From elan@tcs.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:15 EST 1995
Article: 19008 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: elan@tcs.com (Elan Kaplan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help !!! High heat clear paint or alternatives sought
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 10:52:35 -0800
Organization: TCSI Corporation
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <elan-0611951052350001@137.134.50.51>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elan2.tcs.com


Hello,

I am seeking a good CLEAR High-heat paint that I can use on
engine and/or exhaust parts (externally) that I am in the proces of
refinishing. I have checked auto and m/c parts stores and could only
find colored high-heat paints (enamels).

does any one know of any such paints and where I might find them ?

also my exhaust cannister is aluminum so it probably will not rust
but my primary concern here is discloration, etc.

are there any other solutions that may be worthwhile ???
I've heard of anodizing, brushing, etc. but am unfamiliar with
what these actually entail.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Please e-mail directly to : elan@tcs.com

Thanks Again !!!

Elan


From darylb@bnr.ca Wed Nov  8 10:56:16 EST 1995
Article: 19009 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 16:42:03 +0000
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In article <47js21$tt@news4.digex.net>, probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
wrote:

> 
> I may have been misleading in my posting.  The Carnot cycle is the best that 
> *any* thermal engine (internal or external combustion) can approach.  The Otto 
> cycle has it's own efficiency equation (it's a bit more complicated, but it's 
> in any Thermodynamics textbook), and I believe that the Otto cycle efficiency 
> for a gasoline engine is about 30% (again, going by memory).  That's the best 
> efficency that a gasoline engine running on the Otto cycle can hope to achieve, 
> however, a gasoline engine running on the Carnot cycle (no such engine esists, 
> BTW) can hope to achieve 60% efficiency.  

I thought it was more like a little over 40% for the Carnot cycle and that
was being approached by the likes of stationary power sources since they
could pretty well bolt on any cost effective ascessory to get a few extra
percent efficiency.
God I hated that thermo stuff, dry as toast (maybe it was just the prof -
Eugene Plett - Mr Monotone) and wierd too, like the otto cycle reaches peak
efficiency at 17 or 18:1 compression ratio but no fuel allows that.


From glossondr%34edg@pcmail.usafa.af.mil Wed Nov  8 10:56:17 EST 1995
Article: 19010 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glossondr%34edg@pcmail.usafa.af.mil (DOUGLAS R. GLOSSON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathe
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 22:05:54 GMT
Organization: United States Air Force Academy
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>From: xlch58@netcom.com
>Subject: Re: Sears lathe
>Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 23:36:42 GMT
>Vince1949 (vince1949@aol.com) wrote:


>: FYI in the mid 80's Sears repackaged the Shirline mill & Lathe and sold
>: them as Sears brand. I bought both.  They were black alum , and identical
>: to the Shirline products except for labels.

>They also sold EMCO MAIER lathes in the 80s

    I personally know about the EMCO as I picked one up in EXCELLENT
 condition at a local sport/tool consignment shop.  It came with the
 3 & 4 jaw chucks, quick change tool post holders, a set of 6 NEW 
 tool bits, live center, dead center, drive dog & safety cup, 2 tailstock
 chucks, complete collet set and holder, all manuals and a few other 
 peices I can't remember right now.  I paid $1000 for it since it had been
 barely used.  An employee at the store said the owner had bought it for 
 his son who was desparate to learn machining.  He used it a few times then
 fell in love with some gal and ran away with her, leaving dad holding a 
 lathe he didn't want.  

 Douglas R. Glosson                    |"This content in no way reflects the 
 Chief Technician                      | opinions, standars, or policy of the 
 USAF Academy Planetarium              | United States Air Force Academy or 
 glossondr%34TRW@34trwmail.usafa.af.mil| the United States Government"


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:18 EST 1995
Article: 19011 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP Anodizing
Date: 6 Nov 1995 20:17:48 GMT
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willias2390@cobra.uni.edu wrote:
: I would like to know if anyone out there does their own anodizing.  I would
: like to anodize some parts of my own.  Is it possible to do in a home workshop? 
: Where could I start in getting some info.?  Just type reply to write to me.

The metalworking FAQ has a pretty good section on anodizing.  Also there
is a recent NASA Tech Briefs article on new environmentally-friendly
anodizing techniques.



From fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:18 EST 1995
Article: 19012 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu (Edward W Claire)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: British Threads?
Date: 7 Nov 1995 00:18:26 GMT
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I am working from some old plans which specify B.A. threads in number 
sizes-- i.e. 5 B.A., 6 B.A. etc.  Can someone give me the appropriate 
equivalents in terms of American Stamdard machine screw sizes?  Thanks.


From farr0324@cinti.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:19 EST 1995
Article: 19013 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: farr0324@cinti.net (E.J. Farr)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mikron Lathe - information wanted
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 23:30:31 GMT
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A friend of mine, in England, has acquired a dissembled lathe and is
looking for information which will enable him to re-build and put it
back into use.

The only marking which can be found is the manufacturers name
"Mikron".  It is a collet style lathe and has a 42" bed and was
originally flat belt driven.  There is no motor.

If anyone has any idea of where to get information concerning this
relic, I would appreciate it.  Even just a picture would help the
puzzle!


Thanks

Howard Farr - Cinti



From kimberln@crl.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:20 EST 1995
Article: 19014 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mikron Lathe - information wanted
Date: 6 Nov 1995 17:14:56 -0800
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In article <47m5ph$gdv@gs2.cinti.net>, E.J. Farr <farr0324@cinti.net> wrote:
>A friend of mine, in England, has acquired a dissembled lathe and is
>looking for information which will enable him to re-build and put it
>back into use.
>
>The only marking which can be found is the manufacturers name
>"Mikron".  It is a collet style lathe and has a 42" bed and was
>originally flat belt driven.  There is no motor.
>
>If anyone has any idea of where to get information concerning this
>relic, I would appreciate it.  Even just a picture would help the
>puzzle!
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Howard Farr - Cinti
>

This sounds like a typical and interesting question for *Model Engineer* 
Magazine.  I suggest that you suggest your friend pose the question to 
the ME readership.  No doubt that an answer will be forthcoming.
 
JerryK



From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:20 EST 1995
Article: 19015 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SB Lathe Gear: Can't Dissassemble
Date: 6 Nov 1995 23:53:38 GMT
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In article <47loe1$49@coyote.euphonix.com>, David Clementson
<ddc@euphonix.com> wrote:

> Help!!
> 
>  I've disassembled my 1939 South Bend 10" down to the last gear, and I 
> can't get it apart!!

> 2.  If this _is_ a taper pin, how did it get so frozen in place?  Cold 
> welding?
> 

It could be that the thing is partially sheared off, due to an overload,
such that the portion in the shaft is no longer aligned with the portions
in the pinion on either side.  It's not hardened, right?, so the best
course is probably to drill it out.

-- 
Rich Klopp
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From wh@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:21 EST 1995
Article: 19016 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Hornaday <wh@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hemispheric dies
Date: 6 Nov 1995 23:45:50 GMT
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I need a hemisperic die 6" in diameter, as well as another 8'' in 
diameter.  I will be using the dies to sink bowls into a donut with a 
hydrolic press.  Does anyone have any ideas on the cheapest way to get 
these dies.  By the way, I don't have a lathe.  What should I pay?

Since I will be forming hot mild steel, I would prefer the dies to be 
H-13.  Thanks for the help.

Bill Hornaday
(213)933-4565



From tuckwood@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:22 EST 1995
Article: 19017 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG on Stainless
Date: 6 Nov 1995 16:36:15 -0500
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I use straight argon.  If you would like to experiment, I have a roll of
.023 stainless MIG wire you can borrow.
Regards,


From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:56:23 EST 1995
Article: 19018 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying Used Machinery
Date: 6 Nov 1995 18:12:58 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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In article <0GtcmSMRym0D078yn@ibm.net>, clear@ibm.netÙ says...
>
>In article <47du63$k0f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
>mdna1941@aol.com (MDNA1941) wrote:
>> To order write, phone or fax [...] Say you saw us on the Internet.
>
>Too much effort and expense.  What about email?  Get with the program,
>guys!
>

I second that, email or access form via internet would be REAL nice.

kp



From neidorff@uicc.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:23 EST 1995
Article: 19019 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Name that tool!
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Let's play "Name That Tool", the new, fun, junk-box game.
            --------------

I am holding a McCrosky 62962, and haven't a clue what it is.
This is tool steel, 2.75" long, 0.25" thick, and somewhere
between 0.51" and 0.65" wide depending on where you measure it.

Here's a lousy ASCII picture of the End View:

\
|}
|}
--

The 0.6" face is smooth, but the 0.5" face is ridged.  The top 
is sort of sharpened to a cutting edge.  The bottom is square.

>From  the front view, (not shown), the left side is tapered
slightly, but the right is square.

Any ideas?  

Anyone want 20 of them?  :-)

--
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564


From tuckwood@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:24 EST 1995
Article: 19020 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG on Stainless
Date: 6 Nov 1995 17:51:59 -0500
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Correction...I should have said I use C25 on stainless (straight Argon for
Aluminum).
Sorry about that.


From kimberln@crl.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:25 EST 1995
Article: 19021 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Date: 6 Nov 1995 16:46:28 -0800
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In article <47l4fv$s2f@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, PaulS77 <pauls77@aol.com> wrote:
>I recently purchased a book published in 1937 by the Brown & Sharpe Mfg.
>Co. of Providence RI, entitled: "A Practical Treatise on Milling and
>Milling Machines".  It's quite a fascinating look at the B&S Universal and
>Plain Mills of the period.  These were horizontal arbor machines.  The
>prowess of these mills at a multitude of toolroom operations is shown and
>described in glorious detail.  Especially interesting is the section
>devoted to milling spirals with the (standard equiptment) Universal Spiral
>Indexing Center.   It got me wondering why horizontal mills have seemingly
>been replaced by vertical spindle mills of the Bridgeport type?  Does
>anyone know when and why vertical milling became the norm?  Any comments
>on the relative merits of each?  

This is in the realm of the history of machine tools and an interesting 
question that I can not answer.  I like horizontal mills and 30 years ago 
had access to both horizontal and vertical Hardinge mills in the UCLA 
chemistry dept student shop where both were good for their specific tasks.

There are some things that a vertical mill just isn't good for such as 
making parallel cuts with 6" OD face cutters.  I have made a lot of T 
nuts this way by spacing 2 cutters on one mandrell and taking off 3/8 x 
1/2 metal in one pass.  Slot cutting is a lot easier using a side and 
face cutter too.

>We feel quite lucky to have an old Burke horizontal mill in our shop.  It
>is a small knee mill with a 16" table.  The spindle is driven by v- belts
>on cone-pulleys with a total of six speeds available. It has a gear-head
>motor hung off a massive cast iron stand.  The table is auto-feed, driven
>by pulleys with a takeoff from the rear of the spindle.  A brass plaque on
>the side proudly proclaims that it is equipped with Timken Roller
>Bearings.  

In similar manner was the Hardinge, which had a 24" x 6" table and also a 
brass plaque.

>The arbor is supported by an overarm with a bushed center that fits in the
>arbor's end.  The arbor is 7/8" diameter, and we sure would like to find a
>replacement (it's out 2-3 thou).  It is taper fitted into the spindle and
>I'm not sure of the taper type or size.  Any info or leads on that would
>be most welcome.  

I have seen lots of Burke mills, but don't know the spindle taper.  I am 
sure it is either a #30 or #40.  A #50 exists but isn't likely on a Burke 
of your size.  These are standard sizes which Travers or MSC can supply.

Be sure to clean out the spindle taper bore.  Sometimes these get softer 
pieces of metal into them (brass or aluminum chips) that flatten out and 
appear to be part of the spindle itself.  That is, you can't see them 
once they get really thin.  Both Travers and MSC sell cleaning tools for 
#30, #40 and #50 tapers and if you change arbors often, dirt may be the 
culprit.  I assume that you grease or oil and adjust the spindle bearings 
occasionally.

The overarm outboard bearing can usually be replaced with a standard 
oilite bearing that can be had at your local bearing supply house.  Or, 
your local bearing supply house will have oilite bearing stock that you 
can use to make your own.

>I inherited this machine from my Dad, but I really  don't know much about
>it's history.  Does anyone know the history of Burke mills? Are they still
>around or are there any parts/attachments still available?  Are there any
>other fans of the horizontal mills out there, or am I the only one in
>horizontal heaven?

Burke is no longer made IMHO, but this is the case for a lot of older 
mills.  The Los Angeles dealers used to have bits and pieces for them but 
recently one of the last of these, Teagarden, closed out at auction.  If 
Mark Rogo is listening maybe he can give some details.

I am a fan of horizontal mills and I have a Nichols.  It is 1 hp, 3P, 
220V, with a 6" X 24" table.  It has a lever action X and a handwheel Y.  
It also is a knee mill.  The Nichols difference was the rise and fall 
head and mine has hand lever actuation with about 4" movement.  This is 
the second Nichols I have had, the first having an 8" x 30" table.  Most 
Nichols are production mills with air or hydraullic feed.

I hate to change to Nichols from Burke, but while Nichols was still in 
production back in the early 1970's, I wrote to them.  Mr. Nichols was a 
Live Steamer and wrote back to me.  He also caused his secretary to send 
me a parts list and manual for my mill, which was quite nice of him.

>Paul Schiller
>PDA Panache
>Hand Crafted For The Digital Age

JerryK


From kimberln@crl.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:26 EST 1995
Article: 19022 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SB Lathe Gear: Can't Dissassemble
Date: 6 Nov 1995 17:11:32 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <47loe1$49@coyote.euphonix.com>,
David Clementson  <ddc@euphonix.com> wrote:
>Help!!
>
> I've disassembled my 1939 South Bend 10" down to the last gear, and I 
>can't get it apart!!  This is the gear that is on the apron pinion shaft 
>that transmits the power feed from the leadscrew to the longitudinal 
>feed rack.  It is clearly pinned to its shaft; one end of the pin is 
>clearly larger than the other, so I have assumed that it is a taper pin 
>(as are used on other parts of the apron).  I can't see any evidence of 
>threading or other fastening that would prevent the pin from being driven 
>out.  
>
>I have tried everything to get it out short of drilling it through and 
>collapsing it.  I filed the small end of the pin flush with the gear body 
>to eliminate any mushrooming of the pin end.  I've tried slotting the top 
>of the pin to try to twist it out.  I've heated the gear.  I've used 
>every kind of penetrating oil and solvent.  I drilled a dimple in the 
>small end of the pin to locate the tip of a pin punch.  I have beat the 
>daylights out of the pin, bent two punches on it, yet it refuses to move. 
> Actually, when I looked at it under a microscope, it appeared that the 
>pin had actually moved _in_ just a little, maybe 0.001"!  
>
>I have three questions:  
>
>1. Is this thing really a taper pin, or am I trying to drive out some 
>kind of threaded or welded part?  If anyone else has taken apart a South 
>Bend apron, let me know what you found.
>
>2.  If this _is_ a taper pin, how did it get so frozen in place?  Cold 
>welding?
>
>3.  How do I get it out?  I'm assuming that I'm going to have to drill it 
>and collapse it.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make sure my 
>drill stays concentric with the pin?  How do I actually collapse it?  
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated, as I'm getting desperate!  

I am a little reluctant to answer but I have looked through my 1964-65 SB 
parts breakdown and not found a taper pin in the assembly you talk 
about.  So I guess between 1939 and 1964, SB has changed some arrangements.

If you have other taper pins, however, this is a good sign that you have 
one here.  I have found that taper pins that remain inplace for centuries 
really do sort of weld in place and you have to drill them out.  Even 
with a hole in them, they are still hard to extract.  I have used dental 
burrs to go through one side to relieve the pressure.  And then had to 
pick them out manually.  They are probably not hard steel.

If possible to accurately center punch the big end, you can drill thru 
then use a taper pin reamer to get out the old steel.  If necessary, you 
can use a bigger taper pin reamer than the old taper pin.  But you have 
to keep track of what you are using so you can re-pin the shaft 
properly.  The handbooks should be able to tell you what drill to use for 
any size taper reamer and your measurements will give you an idea of what 
taper you have to use to clean up the hole.

JerryK


From toml@infinity.ccsi.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:26 EST 1995
Article: 19023 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!io.org!news.interlog.com!winternet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newshost.ccsi.com!infinity!toml
From: toml@infinity.ccsi.com (Tom Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Etching Brass
Date: 7 Nov 1995 04:27:29 GMT
Organization: Commuter Communication Systems
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NNTP-Posting-Host: infinity.ccsi.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Using a permanent marker is indeed a possible etch resist. Radio Shack 
sells a "resist pen" which is really a "Sharpie" permanent marker. 
Anything that is a waterproof barrier to the Ferric Chloride will serve. 
The only problem is that the edge of the "resist" or mask will probably 
be a bit fuzzy unless you take care to clean it up to a clean edge. There 
are spray on photo resists used for printed circuit board manufacture in 
the electronics industry. Call your local electronics store (not Radio 
Shack) if you live in a large city.


From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:56:27 EST 1995
Article: 19024 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Was: WTB Small used lathe, Now: used machinery
Date: 6 Nov 1995 18:10:42 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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In article <47i7gg$25vm@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, KHJC64B@prodigy.com% 
says...
>
>Yes, North Bay is also a dealer for ENCO and other Chinese tools like 
>...
>.... 
> The place with the leaky roof sounds like Sara Lil  down by Wyoming 
>street, what a junk place, get this, the owner of Sara Lil is the brother 
>of Sam at Northbay, seems like all the used tool dealers in the metro 
>Detroit area know each other real well.  Have you been down to Bobby 
>Hargrove's  used machinery shop in Highland Park? Lots of perishable 
>tooling and tool room machinery, but nothing is priced and you do have to 
>do some searching to find things he is not real organized....

I am drooling with envy. Oh to have access to used machinery places like 
that... Count your blessings. I live in the sticks about 60 miles from any 
city of any size and if I went there I wouldn't have a clue what existed.

kp



From grel@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:28 EST 1995
Article: 19025 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: grel@ix.netcom.com (E. Grant Pike )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Corrosion data on COR-TEN steel, Stainless steel, aluminum
Date: 7 Nov 1995 01:24:38 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <47mcgm$mik@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <47ek8t$sd5@misc.twics.com> <47jfq4$cig@shore.shore.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Nov 06  5:24:38 PM PST 1995

In <47jfq4$cig@shore.shore.net> Dimitri Rotow <dar@shore.net> writes: 
>
>A wonderful book covering corrision of these materials (and many, many
more) is 
>"Metal Corrosion in Boats" by Nigel Warren, Adlard Coles Nautical,
London, ISBN 
>0-7136-3479.   Regrettably, this only covers corrosion in sea or fresh
water, but has 
>a lot of interesting notes regarding nonstandard conditions (eg,
stress corrosion of 
>titanium above 300C in dry salt...).
>
>-- 
>Dimitri Rotow     dar@shore.net
>
>
        Shell in the 50s and 60s published a Handbook of Corrosion. The
book covered many different chemicals and their effects on metals. The
solutions were at different concentrations and temperatures. 

Grant 


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:29 EST 1995
Article: 19026 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 20:58:42 GMT
Subject: Re: PARTS CLEANING
Message-ID: <101260102@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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For those of us here on the left coast, OSH sells rags in bulk, or by the
cubic whatits.  When I run low on rags (and it's not time to retire a bunch
of clothing) I'll generally get a shopping bag full for about 10 bucks.  I
think that they charge about $1.59 a pound for mixed colors, and about
$1.89 a pound for white cloth.  The white's mostly cotton fabric, though
the colored stuff generally has a lot of cotton-poly blend.

The full bales cost a bunch-- I think that it's a cubic yard and about
$150 for the thing.  Haven't needed that many rags just yet.

BTW, I've had pink underwear, too.  *Never* wash a red Union suit with
whites if you value your dignity.  OTOH, never buy a union suit if you
value your dignity.

Pete Brooks



From darylb@bnr.ca Wed Nov  8 10:56:29 EST 1995
Article: 19027 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 4NS COLLETS
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 17:04:19 +0000
Organization: bnr
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I can state that its also used on the South Bend 14 1/2" lathe too.
Does anybody sell these collets anymore? I have never seen them in any
catalog. Thank God I'm basically equiped.


From darylb@bnr.ca Wed Nov  8 10:56:30 EST 1995
Article: 19028 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 17:12:05 +0000
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <DHMMqq.FqK@freenet.carleton.ca>, ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ken
Toews) wrote:

snip
> -Given the choice of putting a horizontal adapter on a Bridgeport
> once every couple of months or rearranging a horizontal machine
> every couple of days, for most work I would choose the Bridgeport
> if I was paying the bills.
> 
> Some of the best made machines thought are horizontal, and your
> right, they are nice to operate, especially if you have
> to machine a Involute curve on a tapered shaft

Hi Ken - good post! but...

1) what about verticle adaptors for horizontal mills. To my way of thinking
you'd get a mill built like a brick  you know what but with the versatility
of the verticle for everyday use. I haven't made my BIG mill purchase yet
and was just worried that Bridgeports might suffer (to a much lesser
degree) from the mill / drill syndrome (something I'm all too aware of).

2)Machine a Involute curve on a tapered shaft??!! I'm intrigued.


From brgarwood@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:31 EST 1995
Article: 19029 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brgarwood@aol.com (BRgarwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: casting newsgroup?
Date: 6 Nov 1995 19:22:56 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Does anyone here know of a newsgroup for casting lead and pewter
miniatures?

Thanx
Bert G


From probus@cnj.digex.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:32 EST 1995
Article: 19030 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 7 Nov 1995 03:45:31 GMT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
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Message-ID: <47mkor$c1r@news4.digex.net>
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In article <47m22v$gic@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net says...
>
>
>I don't believe the ratio of mechanical output to heat input is called
>thermal efficiency - it is called efficiency or in your case Carnot cycle
>efficiency.  A good example of a 100% thermal efficiency is a stalled
>electric motor - 100% of the energy going in is converted into (thermal )
>heat energy.
>
>So- definitions aside what do you claim for work output for thermal enrgy
>input?

The ratio of mechanical output to heat input *is* called thermal efficiency.  
It is possible to get very close to 100% thermal efficiency using electricity 
and a resistor, however, getting 100% thermal efficiency from burning a fuel 
is nearly impossible.  Like I said in my original post, the exhaust would have 
to be at absolute zero temperature, which means that you have extracted every 
bit of energy that can be had from the fuel that you're burning.

I'm not quite sure about your question, but the *maximum* work output 
possible for a given heat input is the difference between the heat input and 
the heat output.

In equation form it looks like this:

W   = Q  - Q
 max   in   out

The Carnot efficiency would be:

     W
      max
N  = ---- 
 th  Q
      in

Which would reduce to:

         Q
          out
N  = 1 - ----
 th      Q
          in

The actual thermo efficiency would be:

         W
          act
N      = ------
 th,act  Q
          in

Where W   is the actual work out as measured from the crankshaft.
       act


I don't know if I can convince you that the ratio of work output to heat input 
is the thermal efficiency, but if you want to, you can look what I'm saying, 
up in a Thermodynamics textbook.  If you can find one written by Kenneth Wark 
Jr. I think he's written his textbook so that it's easy to understand, of 
course I had no choice but to understand it to pass :) and I had the advantage 
of having to read many chapters of thermo. stuff before I got to the thermal 
engine cycles, so take my book recommendation with that in mind.

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net



From Janecek@Tezcat.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:32 EST 1995
Article: 19031 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!janecek.tezcat.com!user
From: Janecek@Tezcat.com (Jim Janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: air-powered drawbars and Knee Mills
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 21:57:32 -0600
Organization: Personal Effects inc.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: janecek.tezcat.com

I'm investigating purchasing an 8" x 30" Knee Mill.
It has step pulley speed change and a top like a Mill/Drill.

Does anybody use an air-powered drawbar on their vertical mill or has
anybody adapted an air tool to speed up the tool change operation.

I've been told that normal air-powered drawbars will not fit the knee mill
I am looking at, only full-size vertical mills.

Should I even bother with THINKING about an air-powered drawbar?

-- 
Jim Janecek
Personal Effects inc.


From probus@cnj.digex.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:33 EST 1995
Article: 19032 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: probus@cnj.digex.net (Paul Probus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: 7 Nov 1995 03:18:14 GMT
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In article <darylb-061195164203@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>, darylb@bnr.ca says...

>
>I thought it was more like a little over 40% for the Carnot cycle and that
>was being approached by the likes of stationary power sources since they
>could pretty well bolt on any cost effective ascessory to get a few extra
>percent efficiency.
>God I hated that thermo stuff, dry as toast (maybe it was just the prof -
>Eugene Plett - Mr Monotone) and wierd too, like the otto cycle reaches peak
>efficiency at 17 or 18:1 compression ratio but no fuel allows that.

You may be correct.  I'm trying to go from memory, but it's been a while.

Paul Probus
probus@cnj.digex.net



From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Wed Nov  8 10:56:34 EST 1995
Article: 19033 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John W. Hall" <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 95 23:43:36 -0300
Organization: NB*Net
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Message-ID: <94427.jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Reply-To: <jhall@nbnet.nb.ca>
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To: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil

On 6 Nov 95 07:21:48 EST, 
Kevin Pinkerton  <glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil > wrote:

>>Stamped on the body of the chuck is "RJ3-16L".  Am I to assume that this 
>>is a "3JT" taper?  Will a 33JT taper tool fit okay?
>
>Don't assume RJ3 = 3JT. My Sears drill press has a threaded on chuck. The one 
>we have at work (non-sears) is also threaded on. Try to unthread the chuck. My 
>Sears chuck as a ring that sits right above the chuck (actually it is part of 
>the chuck) and the ring has several holes in it (three I think) that you can 
>put the handle of the chuck key in and unscrew the chuck. It may take a pipe 
>wrench to unscrew it the first time. 
DON'T USE A PIPE WRENCH. Take the time to make a pin spanner out of a 
piece of strap with a screw run through it to fit in one of the holes. 
This is much kinder to the machine and isn't hard to make. Also note 
that taper mounted chucks also have a ring above to force the chuck 
off with. Set a board on the table to protect it and the chuch when it 
comes flying off.

John



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:35 EST 1995
Article: 19034 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: British Threads?
Message-ID: <1995Nov6.213912.657@flying-disk.com>
Date: 6 Nov 95 21:39:11 PST
References: <47m8ki$7n5@agate.berkeley.edu>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 111

In article <47m8ki$7n5@agate.berkeley.edu>,
fasted@uclink.berkeley.edu (Edward W Claire) writes:

> I am working from some old plans which specify B.A. threads in number 
> sizes-- i.e. 5 B.A., 6 B.A. etc.  Can someone give me the appropriate 
> equivalents in terms of American Stamdard machine screw sizes?  Thanks.

Here is my table of British, American, and Metric machine screws and
their tap drills.   This has been gleaned from a variety of sources,
none of which are guaranteed to be perfectly accurate.   In particular,
there is considerable debate over the "correct" tap drill to use, hence
some alternates are offered.   This list is sorted by outside diameter
for convenience in selecting the nearest size in another series.

I would appreciate any corrections, additions, comments, etc.


British  American  Metric   Outside     Tap   Tap Drill  Alternate  Alternate
 Sizes    Sizes    Sizes    Diameter   Drill   Diameter  Tap Drill  Tap Diam.
                            (inches)           (inches)             (inches)
=======  ========  =======  ========   =====   ========  =========  ==========
           0-80              .0600     3/64    .0469
1/16-60                      .0625     3/64    .0469
10-BA                        .0669     #54     .0550
           1-64              .0730     #53     .0595
           1-72              .0730     #53     .0595
 9-BA                        .0748     #53     .0559
           2-56              .0860     #50     .0700
           2-64              .0860     #50     .0700
 8-BA                        .0865     1.8 mm  .0709       #50       .0700
3/32-48                      .0937     #48     .0760
 7-BA                        .0983     #47     .0785
           3-48              .0990     #47     .0785
           3-56              .0990     #46     .0810       #45       .0820
 6-BA                        .1102     2.3 mm  .0905       #43       .0890
           4-40              .1120     #43     .0890       #44       .0860
           4-48              .1120     #42     .0935       #43       .0890
                   3.0-0.6   .1181     2.4 mm  .0945       3/32      .0938
                   3.0-0.5   .1181     2.5 mm  .0984       #40       .0980
1/8-40     5-40              .1250     #38     .1015
           5-44              .1250     #37     .1040
 5-BA                        .1259     #37     .1040
                   3.5-0.6   .1378     2.9 mm  .1142       #33       .1130
           6-32              .1380     #36     .1065
           6-40              .1380     #33     .1130
 4-BA                        .1417     3.0 mm  .1181       #32       .1160
                   4.0-0.75  .1575     3.2 mm  .1260       1/8       .1250
                   4.0-0.7   .1575     3.3 mm  .1299       #30       .1285
 3-BA                        .1614     #29     .1360
           8-32              .1640     #29     .1360
           8-36              .1640     #29     .1360
 2-BA                        .1850     4.0 mm  .1575       #22       .1570
3/16-24                      .1875     #27     .1440
3/16-32                      .1875     #23     .1540
          10-24              .1900     #25     .1495       #26       .1470
          10-32              .1900     #21     .1590
                   5-0.9     .1968     4.1 mm  .1614       #20       .1610
                   5-0.8     .1968     4.2 mm  .1654       #19       .1660
 1-BA                        .2086     4.5 mm  .1772       #16       .1770
          12-24              .2160     #16     .1770
          12-28              .2160     #15     .1800       #14       .1820
7/32-24                      .2187     #16     .1770
7/32-26                      .2187     #15     .1800
7/32-28                      .2187     #14     .1820
 0-BA                        .2362     5.1 mm  .2008       #7        .2010
                   6-1.0     .2362     5.0 mm  .1968       #9        .1960
1/4-20                       .2500     #9      .1960
          1/4-20             .2500     #7      .2010
1/4-26                       .2500     #4      .2090
          1/4-28             .2500     #3      .2130
                   7-1.0     .2756     6.0 mm  .2362       15/64     .2344
5/16-18                      .3125     1/4     .2500
          5/16-18            .3125     F       .2570
5/16-22                      .3125     G       .2610
          5/16-24            .3125     I (i)   .2720
5/16-26                      .3125     J       .2770
                   8-1.0     .3150     7.0 mm  .2756       I (i)     .2720
                   8-1.25    .3150     6.8 mm  .2677       H         .2660
3/8-16                       .3750     5/16    .3125
          3/8-16             .3750     5/16    .3125
3/8-20                       .3750     P       .3230
          3/8-24             .3750     Q       .3320
3/8-26                       .3750     Q       .3320
                  10-1.5     .3937     8.5 mm  .3346       Q         .3320
                  10-1.25    .3973     8.8 mm  .3465       S         .3480
                  10-1.0     .3973     9.0 mm  .3543       S         .3480
7/16-14                      .4375     23/64   .3594
          7/16-14            .4375     U       .3680
7/16-18                      .4375     3/8     .3750
          7/16-20            .4375     25/64   .3906
7/16-26                      .4375     Y       .4040
                  12-1.75    .4724     10.3 mm .4055       Y         .4040
                  12-1.5     .4724     10.5 mm .4134       Z         .4130
                  12-1.25    .4724     10.8 mm .4252       27/64     .4219
                  12-1.0     .4724     11.0 mm .4331       7/16      .4375
1/2-12                       .5000     13/32   .4062
          1/2-13             .5000     27/64   .4219
1/2-20                       .5000     7/16    .4375
          1/2-20             .5000     29/64   .4531
1/2-26                       .5000     29/64   .4531
                  14-2.0     .5512     12.0 mm .4724       15/32     .4688
                  14-1.75    .5512     12.3 mm .4842       31/64     .4844
                  14-1.5     .5512     12.5 mm .4921       1/2       .5000
                  14-1.25    .5512     12.8 mm .5039       1/2       .5000
                  14-1.0     .5512     13.0 mm .5118       33/64     .5156


--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:35 EST 1995
Article: 19035 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!news.gmi.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Date: 6 Nov 1995 23:57:56 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <rich_klopp-0611951559110001@128.18.30.31>
References: <47l4fv$s2f@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <DHMMqq.FqK@freenet.carleton.ca> <47lshk$1gi@agate.berkeley.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

End mills for a vertical mill are *much* cheaper than arbor-mounted
cutters for a horizontal, like by an order of magnitude.

-- 
Rich Klopp
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From morton@interserv.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:36 EST 1995
Article: 19036 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!stallion.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.dacom.co.kr!simtel!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: morton@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: 12 X 36 SHELDON L
Date: 7 Nov 1995 04:18:22 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <47mmme$285@data.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.120.34.174
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Or you can call 1-800-537-1446 and ask Machinery Information Systems to place an ad
for free in the SuperFaxMate II bulletin.  Over 1000 faxes go out every night to dealers
all over the world.  It's free to manufacturers selling their machinery (I think).



From srs@wam.umd.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:37 EST 1995
Article: 19037 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Spence Spencer <srs@wam.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hilsch vortex tube info...
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 00:10:31 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 13
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I got hold of a copy of "Projects for the amateur scientist", the book 
mentioned in the earlier post. There is an article on how a Hilsch tube 
is made. I've used the things for years at work, but never opened one up 
to see how it was made. I'm surprised at how simple the things are!. It 
looks like it would be easy to make one out of brass or acrylic, so if 
the weather is bad this weekend I may try to make one out of brass I have 
lying around. I guess that the first one will be rather primitively made 
of soldered brass shim stock, as my unimat is down for parts :(. I'll 
also see about getting the pages of the book scanned into an image file 
so that it can be shared around the group.
Spence..
CUL8R



From goldstar@nwlink.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:38 EST 1995
Article: 19038 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: goldstar@nwlink.com (Bob Bickers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: y
Date: 7 Nov 1995 04:37:43 GMT
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Ahello  I just bought a new 4jaw chuck[chinese] when chucking up an 8" shaft runout at 5"=.005", is this reasonable or should it be truer? I turned the back of the chuck on a shaft between centers and could not improve on this TIR. Whats "normal" runout on an unsupported shaft? Whats a good sourse for straight shafts to check and true a lathe with?  Thanks in advance. 
D
D
D
Bob Bickers  goldstar@nwlink.com seattle,wa
A



From dralle@matronics.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:39 EST 1995
Article: 19039 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!decwrl!lll-winken.llnl.gov!usenet
From: "Matt G. Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Date: 7 Nov 1995 09:13:30 GMT
Organization: Matronics
Lines: 23
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>>>Stamped on the body of the chuck is "RJ3-16L".  Am I to assume that this 
>>>is a "3JT" taper?  Will a 33JT taper tool fit okay?
>>
>>Don't assume RJ3 = 3JT. My Sears drill press has a threaded on chuck. The one 
>>we have at work (non-sears) is also threaded on. Try to unthread the chuck. My 
>>Sears chuck as a ring that sits right above the chuck (actually it is part of 
>>the chuck) and the ring has several holes in it (three I think) that you can 
>>put the handle of the chuck key in and unscrew the chuck. It may take a pipe 
>>wrench to unscrew it the first time. 

No, my chuck is not threaded - it is a taper maybe 1.5" long.  I have had the
chuck off.

So who make a good quality self-reversing tapping tool for the 3JT taper?  I
need to tap 4-40 and 6-32.  It would be nice to just pull the chuck off and 
pop the tapper on, but I could live with other options.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Matt





From Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:40 EST 1995
Article: 19040 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!igor.rutgers.edu!newsserver.jvnc.net!synapse.bms.com!news-admin
From: "Glenn A. Warr" <Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: 7 Nov 1995 19:42:03 GMT
Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb Company
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <47ocqb$lbl@synapse.bms.com>
References: <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com> <jbober-0711951009110001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: warrg.wf.bms.com

jbober@ida.org (James T. Bober) wrote:
>
> The best etchant I've found is based on perchloric acid and ceric
> perchlorate. It is available from GFS Chemicals in Columbus Ohio as
> product # 5910. Price is $25.50 for 4 liters.
> 
 Thanks Jim,

I always thought of perchloric acid as pretty nasty stuff.  Is this
etchant as nasty (especially around water)?  What is the recommended
procedure to neutralize the etchant once the brass has been
etched to satisfaction?

Glenn


From reelcolors@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:40 EST 1995
Article: 19041 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP Anodizing
Date: 7 Nov 1995 05:11:05 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Scott : ALL the information you'll need .

          Go to  the web crawler, type ' metal finishing '  

          There is the place with all the information you need. Im not
sure they are willing to talk to someone who isn't in the business but its
worth a try.

                                                        Good luck

                                                             Tom 


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:41 EST 1995
Article: 19042 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon Lathe information wanted
Date: 7 Nov 1995 19:57:17 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <47odmt$pua@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@lime.wustl.edu

Knut Pedersen (Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no) wrote:
: I have got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old Sheldon Lathe. 

: But the Face plate is missing

You can look in machinist's supply catalogs (in the US these would be MSC,
Enco, KBC ext.) for face plates ready made to fit your spindle nose, or
chuck backing plates for mounting flat-back chucks on your spindle.  If
you can't find those, you can always get a blank chuck backing plate and
machine it yourself (although this would be easier if you already HAD a
faceplate).  If your current chuck has a backing plate, you could remove
the chuck from the plate, and use the backing plate as a temporary faceplate
to make your faceplate from.



From 00RAVANMARTE@BSU.EDU Wed Nov  8 10:56:42 EST 1995
Article: 19043 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 00RAVANMARTE@BSU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: survey
Date: 7 Nov 1995 21:12:10 GMT
Organization: Ball State University
Lines: 80
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I am a student in my final year of formal education and am currently 
working on a thesis.  I am asking for your assistance in my endeavor to 
gather information that will help me with my thesis topic.  Please be 
assured that each individual set of responses will be held in confidence 
and anonymity.  Your responses will be used for the sole purpose of 
compiling the information I require in order to establish a strong 
foundation from which to begin.
	I am asking you to answer as many questions as you feel 
comfortable with, and for you to respond as succinctly as your time 
allows.  Some of the questions may seem rather cumbersome.  It is my hope 
that those questions will inspire you rather than weigh you down.  
	Realizing that this is a rather lengthy questionnaire, I would 
like to thank you in advance for your time and valuable input:  
Thank-you.

1.	What is your age? (Optional)
2.	What is your occupation?
3.	Is there a particular reason that you chose this occupation?
4.	What is your favorite color?
5.	What is your favorite shape?
6.	What is your favorite season of the year and why?
7.	What is your favorite book?
8.	Do you exercise regularly?
9.	Do you recycle?
10.	What is your favorite food?
11.	Describe where you currently live.
12.	If you could change any five things about where you are currently 
living, what would they be?
13.	If you have ever experienced a house or a room that you felt very 
comfortable in, describe it and tell why you felt comfortable there.
14.	In your mind, visualize your "dream house", whatever that may be 
to you.  Now, as closely as you can, describe it.
15.	Do you see yourself purchasing a house in the near future?
16.	If you have a favorite style of architecture for houses, list it 
here.  If you cannot identify the style, then describe features of 
favorite houses that you have seen.
17.	Referring back to question number 16, why do you favor this?
18.	Do you think that Americans are conscientious of their 
environment?
19.	Right now, what is the most important part of your life and why?
20.	If you could do absolutely anything for a living, what would that 
be and why?
21.	What is the most exciting thing that you ever did?
22.	If you were the person fortunate enough to have found Aladdin's 
Lamp, assuming that you could only have one wish granted instead of the 
story book three, what would that one wish be?
23.	Prior to your death, is there one thing that you would very much 
like to do?
24.	Referring back to question number 23, do you envision yourself 
ever doing that and why or why not?
25.	If you can remember back when you were twelve years old, is your 
current life everything that you thought it would be?
26.	Referring back to question number 25, if it is not, can you 
describe how you thought it would be -OR- if it is , are you satisfied 
with that?
27.	What is the most fulfilling thing that you have ever done?
28.	When you have "free-time", what do you find yourself doing, 
typically?
29.	Do you have a home computer system?
30.	Are you affiliated with any religious organizations in any 
capacity?
31.	If you were having a new house built for you, would you hire an 
architect to help you design it and why?
32.	If there were two like products on the market, one that was 
entirely "eco-friendly" and the other that was not, which product would 
you select if the "eco-friendly" product were twice the cost (all other 
things being equal) of the other?
33.	Referring to question number 32, can you explain the reasons for 
your selection?
34.	If you could live anywhere in the world, where would you live and 
why?
35.	How do you feel about the idea of virtual reality?
36.	Can you name any of your elementary school teachers?
37.	Referring to question number 36, is there a particular reason 
that you remember this (these) teacher(s)?


	Thanks again for taking the time to fill out this survey.  Good 
luck in all of your future endeavors.



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:43 EST 1995
Article: 19044 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!admaix.sunydutchess.edu!ub!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.sandia.gov!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!russ
From: russ@bbx.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Atlas model 7B shaper
Message-ID: <DHn3wy.73A@bbx.basis.com>
Reply-To: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
Organization: BASIS Int'l, Albuquerque NM USA
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 21:05:22 GMT
Lines: 20

I'd been looking for an Atlas shaper for some time, and almost drove a
few hundred miles to look at one a couple of months ago but didn't. 
This weekend an Atlas 7B in pristine condition showed up in the
newspaper, and at $250 I snatched it up (despite the problems of
getting it while cooking for 80 folks due that evening for a surprise
retirement party for my father...)

Anyway, I'm more than a bit of a neophyte at this - any suggestions
for a good beginning shaper book?  I'm assuming that Lindsey has
something, and I'd like to get 'em ordered before leaving on a
business trip on Wednesday.

(There are few things worse than getting a new toy and not being able
to play...)

-- 
Russ Kepler, Basis International Ltd. russ@bbx.basis.com  phone: 505-345-5232

                 Do not throw rocks at this signature



From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:56:44 EST 1995
Article: 19045 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 33JT and 3JT Chuck Tapers...
Date: 7 Nov 1995 11:38:04 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
Lines: 17
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One more note... If you cannot get anywhere with using a tapping head 
directly chucked on your machine, you could get an arbor that converts from 
any of the jacobs tapors to a straight 1/2" shaft and then chuck that in your 
5/8" chuck. I mean this would be a last resort. I have done this one in my 
machine once when I needed to chuck a 3/4" reamer into a 3/4" jacobs chuck and 
I didn't have an adapter to use the 3/4" chuck in my lathe (at the time). I 
had a straight arbor to jacobs adapter chucked into my 1/2" drill press chuck 
and the 3/4" chuck was attached to the straight arbor, then the reamer was in 
the 3/4" chuck. It was kludgey and not very true, but I ran the reamer as slow 
as I could and it worked OK. You be the judge on whether this might be ok for 
a tapping head. You can get straight to jacobs arbors from ENCO for not much 
money. You might have to wait for a month for it though. Sometimes ENCO has 
taken forever and has shipped my order in as many as 4 pieces, each one coming 
weeks apart, but they have never NOT completed an order for me. good luck.

kp



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:45 EST 1995
Article: 19046 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!casaba.srv.cs.cmu.edu!rochester!cornellcs!newsfeed.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (Jim Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced IC engine project.  Partners needed.
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 06:13:20 GMT
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) wrote:

[snip]
>I thought it was more like a little over 40% for the Carnot cycle and that
>was being approached by the likes of stationary power sources since they
>could pretty well bolt on any cost effective ascessory to get a few extra
>percent efficiency.
>God I hated that thermo stuff, dry as toast (maybe it was just the prof -
>Eugene Plett - Mr Monotone) and wierd too, like the otto cycle reaches peak
>efficiency at 17 or 18:1 compression ratio but no fuel allows that.

Well, not to give away any trade secrets, but we run 18:1 motors
regularly. fuel is Alcohol & Nitromethane. VE is way way over 100%. I
would'nt call them streetable though :^)

Jim Harvey
jhre@ix.netcom.com
hre@localweb.com
http://www.wp.com/HarveyRacing



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:46 EST 1995
Article: 19047 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for info on Polyurea based grease...
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 7 Nov 1995 20:05:41 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.autos.tech:133388 rec.crafts.metalworking:19047

Kevin Pinkerton (glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil) wrote:
: Hi, I was looking for some spindle bearing grease for my milling machine when 
: I came across a product distributed by United Oil Company (Baltimore) called 
: Duralene Dura-Life 1200. I am looking for anyone that may have had some 
: experience with polyurea based grease that can give me some feedback. This is 
: a polyurea based (new generation polyurea) grease, not a soap based grease. 
: The literature says it "heals" (returns to normal consistency) after shearing 
: (whatever that means). It exhibits better water sparyoff (7.7%) than water 
: resistant greases. It contains no metals. The polyurea thickener provied 
: Extreme Pressure properties without being heat activated. It contains more 
: than 90% oil (versus 75-90% oil in lithium and lithium complex greases). It 
: has a 565 degree drop point. The literature lists about 5 more key points that 
: I won't go into here. I am not trying to sell this stuff. Of course the 
: salesman was trying to sell it and made it look like good grease to use in a 
: permanent sealed bearing type application. The spindle bearing cannot be 
: regreased without disassembly. I figured someone in the automotive field would 
: be more likely to have heard of this type of grease before. Thanks for any 
: help/feedback I might get.

Roller (and ball) bearings 'shear' the lubricant, by pressing it in between
the roller and races in a space of about .00001" or less.  If the grease
repairs the damage of shearing, it would be a real advance in lubrication.
Most lubes either resist the shearing or break down, turning into oil.
The high 'drop point' is good, because it keeps the grease in the bearing,
instead of flinging it off.  Some machine tools (like my 1940's Bridgeport)
use UNsealed bearings in the spindle, in which the design of the spindle
keeps most contaminants out of the bearings, but if you take the quill
out, you will see the balls and retainer right out in the open.  I haven't
tried to disassemble my spindle yet, but I probably should.



From khill@microtronix.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:46 EST 1995
Article: 19048 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!newshost.icis.on.ca!news
From: khill@microtronix.com
Subject: MIG vs. TIG?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: 205.189.84.129
Message-ID: <DHoyD5.HAL@icis.on.ca>
Sender: news@icis.on.ca (Newsie)
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Organization: Inter-Com Information Services
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 21:00:40 GMT
Lines: 10

I am looking at buying a welder for stainless steel and mild steel (possibly
aluminum in the future).  One sales person sugguested that I would be
better off with a MIG because it is more versitile.  The sales person also
said that he had seen a MIG adapted to do TIG welding and it worked.
Has anybody else ever heard of this?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Ken Hill


From jay@ftp.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:48 EST 1995
Article: 19049 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mikron Lathe - information wanted
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 17:55:57
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
Lines: 32
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NNTP-Software: PC/TCP NNTP

In article <47m5ph$gdv@gs2.cinti.net> farr0324@cinti.net (E.J. Farr) writes:
>A friend of mine, in England, has acquired a dissembled lathe and is
>looking for information which will enable him to re-build and put it
>back into use.
>The only marking which can be found is the manufacturers name
>"Mikron".  It is a collet style lathe and has a 42" bed and was
>originally flat belt driven.  There is no motor.
>If anyone has any idea of where to get information concerning this
>relic, I would appreciate it.  Even just a picture would help the
>puzzle!
-------------------------
I am restoring a Mikron lathe right now!  It is Swiss.  Mine has a flat
bed of the clock-maker's type with a central long slot for the turret
(called capstan in UK) assembly to slide on.  It has a two step pulley
of approx 2" (50mm) and 4" (100mm) diameters.  I made a countershaft
using wooden pulleys and added a variable speed 3/4 hp (500 watt) D.C.
motor.  The turret on mine is slanted at 30 degrees (hmmm, will have to
check that), has 6 holes of 5/8" (16mm) diameter.  The whole turret
assembly has a *TRANSVERSE* feed with six station stops, in addition
to the usual turret stops at the back of the turret.  I haven't figured
out yet what this transverse feed is needed for, but guess this machine
was used for second operations and box tools.  Any MIKRON lathe users
out there with experience on this?
This machine has esthetic appeal.....painted medium blue, nice steel
ways, the Mikron makers plate has a small splash of red..."nice to see".
e-mail me and I will try to get measurements and a photo to your friend
in the UK.
Cheers
Jay





From glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil Wed Nov  8 10:56:49 EST 1995
Article: 19050 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nctuccca.edu.tw!news.cc.nctu.edu.tw!news.cis.nctu.edu.tw!usenet
From: glenn_mayor@cats.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for info on Polyurea based grease...
Date: 7 Nov 1995 13:47:20 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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Hi, I was looking for some spindle bearing grease for my milling machine when 
I came across a product distributed by United Oil Company (Baltimore) called 
Duralene Dura-Life 1200. I am looking for anyone that may have had some 
experience with polyurea based grease that can give me some feedback. This is 
a polyurea based (new generation polyurea) grease, not a soap based grease. 
The literature says it "heals" (returns to normal consistency) after shearing 
(whatever that means). It exhibits better water sparyoff (7.7%) than water 
resistant greases. It contains no metals. The polyurea thickener provied 
Extreme Pressure properties without being heat activated. It contains more 
than 90% oil (versus 75-90% oil in lithium and lithium complex greases). It 
has a 565 degree drop point. The literature lists about 5 more key points that 
I won't go into here. I am not trying to sell this stuff. Of course the 
salesman was trying to sell it and made it look like good grease to use in a 
permanent sealed bearing type application. The spindle bearing cannot be 
regreased without disassembly. I figured someone in the automotive field would 
be more likely to have heard of this type of grease before. Thanks for any 
help/feedback I might get.

Kevin P.



From Russell.A.McAllister@dartmouth.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:50 EST 1995
Article: 19051 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!dartvax.dartmouth.edu!Russell.A.McAllister
From: Russell.A.McAllister@dartmouth.edu (Russell A. McAllister)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Powermatic/Houdaille?
Date: 7 Nov 1995 12:55:30 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
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   Hi...I have a Powermatic-Logan Metal Lathe made by
Powermatic/Houdaille of McMinnville,Tenn. Does anyone know if they are
still around? 

  Also, could you recommend a good company to supply lathe cutting
tools, drills, etc. ?

  Thanks!

Russell McAllister


From kimberln@crl.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:53 EST 1995
Article: 19052 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.uoregon.edu!gatech2!pirates!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nntp.crl.com!crl8.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 4NS COLLETS
Date: 7 Nov 1995 16:11:17 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <47osj5$r64@crl8.crl.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl8.crl.com

In article <darylb-061195170419@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>,
darylb <darylb@bnr.ca> wrote:
>
>I can state that its also used on the South Bend 14 1/2" lathe too.
>Does anybody sell these collets anymore? I have never seen them in any
>catalog. Thank God I'm basically equiped.

Hardinge Bros sells them.  Makes them too.  1-800-843-8801.

JerryK


From tabco@acy.digex.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:53 EST 1995
Article: 19053 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news3.digex.net!usenet
From: tabco@acy.digex.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: How to use a chucking reamer?
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 95 19:33:47 PDT
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
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>I'm making a cylinder for my model airplane engine.  The finished bore
>should be .410".
>
>I've seen in catalogs a few differnet types of chucking reamers.  In
>particular, a spiral and straight type.  Which is the type of reamer I
>should use for my application?  My final fitting will be hand lapped.
> 
>And, how do you properly use a chucking reamer in a lathe?  I'd expect,
>generous amounts of cutting fluid, go slow.  Is the reamer held in the
>tailstock with a collet?  Or, is a chuck used?

Chucking reamers are usually used in a drill chuck,  (hence the name) because 
their shanks are usually an odd size, and soft enough to be gripped by the 
chuck.  Use a good supply of cutting fluid, (depending on what material the 
piece is made of.  Feed slowly at low rpm.  BTW, Spiral reamers are usually used 
in deep holes to help clear chips.  Straight reamers are prefered for short or 
blind holes.  

>Lastly, how much material should be left for the reamer to ream?

This also depends on the material used, you never want to overload a reamer, as 
it will affect the hole size and quality.  On a .410 bore, I would drill a .250 
hole first, open with a 13/32 (.40625) using plenty of fluid to keep the finish 
good, then ream.  The pilot hole will stabilize the larger drill and help it cut 
"on-size".  

tabco@acy.digex.net



From rharbach@csn.net Wed Nov  8 10:56:54 EST 1995
Article: 19054 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!news-2.csn.net!teal.csn.net!not-for-mail
From: rharbach@csn.net (Roy A. Harbach)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FREE 1 Year Trial WWW Advertising
Date: 7 Nov 1995 19:41:56 -0700
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Lines: 51
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <47p5dk$kc3@teal.csn.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22

For Metal Manufacturing and related businesses only-

METAL Machining and Fabrication WWW Service
( http://www.mmf.com/metal/ ) will give your metal related
business 1 full year of FREE advertising on the World
Wide Web.  You are under absolutely no obligation to continue
service after the full year expires.

METAL Machining and Fabrication WWW Service will provide
your business the following at absolutely no charge-

     We will create your Home Page with up to 90 lines of
     text and one graphic logo and/or business name.

     We will accept up to an additional 180 lines of text
     which will be hyperlinked to your Home Page by
     subject matter.

     We will hyperlink your e-mail address so customers
     can contact you 24 hours-a-day, 7 days-a-week.

     We will provide your business with its own personal
     URL along with a listing in the METAL M&F Global
     Directory (the only WWW directory focused solely on
     the Metal Industry.)

     And finally, we will put your Web documents on the
     Internet for 1 full year absolutely free!

This FREE offer is simply intended to promote the METAL
Machining and Fabrication Web site and to give businesses
a chance to tap the Internets potential.  After one year
you are absolutely under no obligation to continue service
with us.  If you do decide to continue service you will find our
rates are very inexpensive.

Please e-mail a brief description of your company, products
and services and we will promptly get back to you with all
the details.

Be sure to visit us at http://www.mmf.com/metal/

Sincerely,

Roy A. Harbach
Director, METAL Machining and Fabrication
rharbach@mmf.com


-- 
Roy A. Harbach


From ulf.jonsson@mt.luth.se Wed Nov  8 10:56:55 EST 1995
Article: 19055 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dacom.co.kr!simtel!pravda.aa.msen.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: ulf.jonsson@mt.luth.se (Ulf Jonsson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: British Threads?
Date: 8 Nov 1995 02:17:17 GMT
Organization: Lulea University, Mechanical Engineering
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <ulf.jonsson-0711952130120001@148.59.227.195>
References: <47m8ki$7n5@agate.berkeley.edu> <1995Nov6.213912.657@flying-disk.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 148.59.227.195

Alan, you are a hero! thanks for the table.

Ulf


From Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no Wed Nov  8 10:56:56 EST 1995
Article: 19056 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!simtel!news00.sunet.se!sunic!mn6.swip.net!news99.sunet.se!news.kth.se!nntp.uio.no!nntp-oslo.UNINETT.no!nntp-trd.UNINETT.no!ugress.uib.no!dronning.im.uib.no!Knut.Pedersen
From: Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no (Knut Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sheldon Lathe information wanted
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 12:44:40 GMT
Organization: University of Bergen
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <Knut.Pedersen.83.815748280@imp.uib.no>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dronning.im.uib.no

I have got hold of an allmost unused 50 years old Sheldon Lathe. 
originaly from a army mobile workshop mounted on a metal bench with drawers.

it has the following labels:
1:
 War finish as directed by Order L-108 US war production board.

2:
  6     20      52
Tool Rebuild. BR
A.O.D
INSP   32
2511
2513

3:
Quick Change Gear Lathe Catalog no S E W Q

Data:
Bed Length 56"
Swing 11"
Spindel 1 5/16"
The bed is marked S 9658

It is supplied with Telescopic Taper Attachment,

6" Cushman 3 -jaw chuck, 6" Skinner 4 - jaw independent chuck,
Set of 16 South Bend Collets With Hand Wheel draw in,
Clamp dogs and V- jaw dogs, a few Centers and Armstrong turning tools

Shauer Machine Co. Tool post grinder,
Thanks to advice from the group I am now able to move the rotor, wil try to
regrease to night.

But the Face plate is missing

I do have the Sheldon Book from Lindsay but no other info. 
Does anyone of you have information of interest, 
I will bee happy to hear from you.
I have paid $ 1500, in Norway I think this is a good price.
Knut Pedersen
University of Bergen
Norway


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Wed Nov  8 10:56:57 EST 1995
Article: 19057 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!news.dacom.co.kr!simtel!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Was: WTB Small used lathe, Now: used machinery
Date: 7 Nov 1995 15:21:10 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <47nth7$9v8@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <47aqf3$d2e@news2.acs.oakland.edu> <47i7gg$25vm@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <47i7gg$25vm@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz) writes:
>You suprised me a bit by saying that you saw their truck at a 
>liquidators shop, they don't own a truck, but I bet they do obtain some 
>of there mechandise at a Liquidators.  Where is this Liquidator so I can 
>check this place out too?.  I am also looking for a good  metal band saw. 

Interesting, it was a big flatbet and it had North Bay Machinery in
neat lettering on the cab.  Seemed like a reasonable assumption.
The liquidator was Robert F Brown.  Charley Lynch has been in the business
for 40 some odd years; a couple of his relatives work for him too.
Nice folks.  They have an 18" Grob with welder and step-pulley drive they
would probably let go cheap.  It was a pretty nice saw if you didn't
need variable speed.

> The place with the leaky roof sounds like Sara Lil  down by Wyoming 
>street, what a junk place, get this, the owner of Sara Lil is the brother 
>of Sam at Northbay, seems like all the used tool dealers in the metro 
>Detroit area know each other real well.  

Harold is Sam's brother?  What a small world.  I bought my mill off of
Harold, had a great time doing it and made sure I counted my fingers
afterwards ;-)  They condemned and demolished Harold's place on Warren,
I haven't been to his other place on Central yet.

Have you been down to Bobby 
>Hargrove's  used machinery shop in Highland Park? Lots of perishable 
>tooling and tool room machinery, but nothing is priced and you do have to 
>do some searching to find things he is not real organized. 

Not yet, but I see a lot of Bobby at the auctions that I can get to.  I
actually beat him on a bid on a precision level at a small auction lately.



--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From jbober@ida.org Wed Nov  8 10:56:57 EST 1995
Article: 19058 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!proto.ida.org!jbober-mac.sed.ida.org!user
From: jbober@ida.org (James T. Bober)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching Brass
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 10:09:11 -0500
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, Virginia
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <jbober-0711951009110001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org>
References: <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jbober-mac.sed.ida.org

The best etchant I've found is based on perchloric acid and ceric
perchlorate. It is available from GFS Chemicals in Columbus Ohio as
product # 5910. Price is $25.50 for 4 liters.

Jim

In article <47dcfg$jij@synapse.bms.com>, "Glenn A. Warr"
<Glenn_A._Warr@ccmail.bms.com> wrote:

> Recently there was a posting about photoetching brass,  It was
> stated that ferric chloride could be used as the etchant.  Could
> someone please tell me what concentration of ferric chloride is
> used for this process?  Also, if any one knows, is it possible to
> use something as simple as permanent magic marker for the resist
> with the ferric chloride process?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Glenn


From Andrew Eicmann Wed Nov  8 10:56:58 EST 1995
Article: 19059 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!van-bc!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!usenet
From: Andrew Eicmann
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where's the FAQ?
Date: 7 Nov 1995 15:08:23 GMT
Organization: I.P. Freely
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)


See question?

TIA




From skimura@cv.hp.com Wed Nov  8 10:56:59 EST 1995
Article: 19060 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!simtel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hpcvsnz!news
From: Steve Kimura <skimura@cv.hp.com>
Subject: Victor TK-3-FP mini gas welding kit: opinions?
Sender: news@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com (News )
Message-ID: <DHoKqp.AGM@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 1995 16:06:25 GMT
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I'm considering the little portable gas welding set that Victor sells; I 
saw it for $249 at Costco with tanks. I've heard that Victor is a good 
brand, but I was curious if this little setup has any limitations other 
than the smaller tank capacity.

I plan to use it for occasional car repair (heating up parts) and for 
making up little brackets, etc. for an airplane project.

I know _nothing_ about welding.

Steve Kimura
kimuras@peak.org



From mjcall@earth.execpc.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:00 EST 1995
Article: 19061 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!daily-planet.execpc.com!earth!mjcall
From: mjcall@earth.execpc.com (Mike Callihan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powermatic/Houdaille?
Date: 7 Nov 1995 16:40:43 GMT
Organization: Exec-PC
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References: <47nl02$6lp@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Russell A. McAllister (Russell.A.McAllister@dartmouth.edu) wrote:
:    Hi...I have a Powermatic-Logan Metal Lathe made by
: Powermatic/Houdaille of McMinnville,Tenn. Does anyone know if they are
: still around? 

:   Also, could you recommend a good company to supply lathe cutting
: tools, drills, etc. ?

:   Thanks!

: Russell McAllister


Powermatic is still in McMinnville, TN they are a major mfg. of 
woodworking equipment. I don't know if they still make metal working 
machines or not. A quick phone call should answer that question.

--
===========================================================================
|      Mike Callihan              *        Ignorance is fixable           |
|      Menomonee Falls, WI        *                 Stupid is forever !   |
===========================================================================


From derrick@ucsub.colorado.edu Wed Nov  8 10:57:01 EST 1995
Article: 19062 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!boulder!usenet
From: wes derrick <derrick@ucsub.colorado.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making Chainmail armor.
Date: 8 Nov 1995 05:04:05 GMT
Organization: U. of Colorado
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It's me again.  I just remembered what the leather boiled in oil is 
really called.  It is curboulli.  Most leather armor of the time was 
made from this stuff unless it had to be flexible.  Boiling in oil 
apparently drives the moisture out and with pressing results in a much 
denser and stronger material.  I think the analogy of skin to toenails 
could be aptly made.  This "drying-out" process also shrinks the 
material.  Presumably one makes the suit with some looseness in it and 
then you boil it in oil which draws it together very tightly.  A proper 
tightness is essential to it's usefulness as a loose weave allows arrows 
to force apart the armor and "nick" you.

					




From xlch58@netcom.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:01 EST 1995
Article: 19063 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!soap.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!btnet!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!simtel!news3.noc.netcom.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!xlch58
From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Atlas model 7B shaper
Message-ID: <xlch58DHp90A.G32@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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Re shaper books, I've got the Emmanuelle Steiri book offered by Lindsay, 		
I am happy with it.  I have not found what I consider a great shaper book
( I have found many fantastic lathe books) 



From dvaughn@odin.cbu.edu Wed Nov  8 10:57:02 EST 1995
Article: 19064 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!btnet!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!simtel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!sgigate.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!night.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.memphis.edu!cbu.edu!odin.cbu.edu!dvaughn
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need source: fine mesh screen
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.951106205213.19835C-100000@odin.cbu.edu>
From: "David N. Vaughn" <dvaughn@odin.cbu.edu>
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 20:54:39 -0600
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Would like to thank all who responded to my query, I now have
plenty of potential sources.

David N. Vaughn
dvaughn@odin.cbu.edu



From bjc@nworks.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:03 EST 1995
Article: 19065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!connix.com!nworks.com!bjc
Subject: laser vs. acid engrav
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: bjc@nworks.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 04:17:04 EST
Message-ID: <804087387801@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks (nworks.com)
Lines: 27


-=> Quoting In:rcook@bix.com to ** All ** <=-

 In> If you can make your own printed circuit boards you can
 In> surely acid-etch your own sundials.

 In> The process isn't difficult. Just coat the stuff you don't
 In> want etched with resist and dunk in acid until done.
 In> Swimming pool acid works fine.

The main problem with using an acid etch process for anything
much thicker than PC board work or shim stock is the problem of
etchant eating into the raised surface from the side of the etch
interface, i.e. an undercutting problem. The higher the relief
attempted, the worse will be the undercutting, rapidly leading to
ruined work. Thin sheet stock is frequently photoetched to create
detailing parts for the scale model trades, i.e. vent grills and
headlamp guards for model armored vehicles or radar antennas,
railings etc for ship models, but even those, which are quite
thin are often double sised etched to reduce undercutting.

Regards,
Brad Chaucer

... * Oh my GOD!  My computer's caught Windows!

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Wed Nov  8 10:57:04 EST 1995
Article: 19066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powermatic/Houdaille?
Date: 7 Nov 1995 20:00:13 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Russell A. McAllister (Russell.A.McAllister@dartmouth.edu) wrote:
:    Hi...I have a Powermatic-Logan Metal Lathe made by
: Powermatic/Houdaille of McMinnville,Tenn. Does anyone know if they are
: still around? 

:   Also, could you recommend a good company to supply lathe cutting
: tools, drills, etc. ?

Currently, I (and many others, I think) would recommend MSC - they have 
nearly everything in their huge catalog, and their prices are reasonable
and their service excellent.  KBC is good, and they have local offices in
many cities.  JTS has special sales several times a year, and the prices are
rock bottom on sale items - especially end mills, but I think they have
lathe tools, too.


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:05 EST 1995
Article: 19067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!csn!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v040601
From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841)
Subject: Re: Horizontal Heaven
Message-ID: <DHoLxv.62E@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
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Lines: 40

. . .

: I am a fan of horizontal mills and I have a Nichols.  It is 1 hp, 3P, 
: 220V, with a 6" X 24" table.  It has a lever action X and a handwheel Y.  

. . .

I recently bought a 1953 Diamond with a 6x24 table.  It's powered by
a 1 hp motor with countershaft providing 9 speeds.  The rear of the
spindle powers a three speed table feed.  In addition to the horizontal
spindle, the machine has a vertical head using a small collet up to 1/2".
The horizontal spindle is B&S #9 and my reading suggests that lots of
the old machines used B&S tapers.  MSC still sells #9 collets (and #7,
I think).  Lindsay is selling a 1920's book (Cincinatti ???) which
would have competed with the B&S book mentioned.  I was amazed at the
completeness and engineering excellence displayed in the book.

One thing I've learned is to anchor the arbor support to the knee during
all but light cutting.  If you look at the old books, many of the pictures
show the "optional" arbor support braces in place - there's a reason for
that.  You can't have enough rigidity!  The old Diamond didn't come with
braces but I just grabbed a bar of 6061 and a pair of long woodworking
clamps and made a makeshift brace.  Tremendous reduction in chatter and
improvement in surface finish.

I'm in the Denver area and had an interesting regional experience related
to horizontal milling.  I bought a new 2" wide plain mill from Enco and
used it on cast iron.  The casting was hard in spots and abrasive as well,
leaving the cutter rough.  I drive to work past a cutter grinder so I
stopped last week and left the cutter with him.  He commented that if I
was in no hurry, he'd like to keep it a few weeks before working on it
because it would take him that long to accumulate enough similar work to
justify a setup.  The interesting part is that he came out here from
Ohio a few years back and said, "I don't know what it is with the West,
back East, I used to get thousands of these cutters - here, it's all
vertical stuff."

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:08 EST 1995
Article: 19068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade  x36841)
Subject: Gear Specifications?
Message-ID: <DHouvv.n2o@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
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Can anyone explain how to measure/deduce the pressure angle for
a spur gear?  I have the formulas for DP, teeth if diameter is
known, etc. but I can't see how to measure PA.  I need to fully
describe a gear in order to either buy or make a copy.

Thanks,

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com


From tuckwood@aol.com Wed Nov  8 10:57:08 EST 1995
Article: 19069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG on Stainless - smooth finish
Date: 7 Nov 1995 10:48:43 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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P.S. - 
When you want to grind off a stainless weld bead for a smooth finish, try
a 3" twist lock rubber sanding pad in your die grinder with twist lock
laminated discs from STANDARD ABRASIVES CORP. e.g. - (80 SOCATT A/O XTRA 2
PLY).

These aluminum oxide discs are incredible on work hardening stainless. 
Follow up with a twist lock blending pad for an invisible joint. You can
make a professional looking, strong, non rusting product from stainless.

Regards,

Jay Tuckwood


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:27 EST 1996
Article: 22399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (kinsler)
Message-ID: <DLrz8D.82F@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Keywords: sphere, lathe., tooling
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (kinsler)
X-Nntp-Posting-Date: Fri Jan 26 01:26:36 1996
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References: <alberic.822551229@access4>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 06:26:37 GMT
Lines: 22

In article <alberic.822551229@access4>,
Brian Meek <alberic@access4.digex.net> wrote:
>Greetings all:
>I have a question, actually, I have many, but I'll keep it down to one 
>tonight.  I've been needing to turn some sphere headed punches for 
>forming sheet metal.  I have a pair of lathes, and should be able to do 
>this with one of them, but I can't think up the proper jig.
>(Lathe #1 is an Ames 6" collett lathe, (grandad to the Hardinge)
>and #2 is a SB 9" heavy.  (Has the same bed/apron as the 10")
>There's no real urgency to this, but it'd be nice eventually.
>I seem to remember that there's some sort of attachment that can ride on 
>the compound rest of an engine lathe, but I can't remember what it looks 
>like, or where to get one.  

Popular Science Monthly had an article on how to build a ball-turning
attachment.  It attached to the toolpost, I believe.  The article ran many
years ago, probably in the 1960's, and I imagine that the author was Harry
Walton.  Popular Science is well indexed, so it shouldn't take too long to
find the issue in question at the library.  Check the Reader's Guide to
Periodical Literature as well. 

                                      Mark Kinsler


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:28 EST 1996
Article: 22400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: Decent Bench Lathe Wanted
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (kinsler)
Message-ID: <DLrzMy.895@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (kinsler)
X-Nntp-Posting-Date: Fri Jan 26 01:35:21 1996
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 06:35:22 GMT
Lines: 21

In article <723.6598T1008T1531@nycmetro.com>,
SARUMAN <midgard@nycmetro.com> wrote:
>Hi can anyone recommend a Decent Bench Lathe Capable of accepting 1" stock at
>least 8" long and with good accuracy. I saw one in the Micro Mark Catalog for
>a decent price but it seemed that the thru hole is only about .420 or so and I
>am thinking this will limit him. Am I misreading this Ad?

Probably not.  The South Bend 9 x 20" lathe I crave has a spindle hole 
that's only 3/4" in diameter.  But 1" stock could be turned on centers 
or with a chuck and one center in the tailstock.  

>                Anyone here own and use one of these Lathe's from Micro Mark?
>What are your thoughts on it?
>Thanx.....BTW interested folks the Lathe was $509 with zeroing incremental
>wheels.

I hadn't heard of Micro Mark.  I'd appreciate the comments of others on 
these machines.  Would you post the telephone number of Micro Mark?

                                        Mark Kinsler



From mbstudios@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:28 EST 1996
Article: 22401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mbstudios@aol.com (MBStudios)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 04:44:20 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I've seen some one clamp a rotory table onto the saddle, and with the tool
post mounted on the table. Though turning full spheres I would think would
be beyond this set up.


From cafe@intcafe.kosone.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:29 EST 1996
Article: 22402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!istar.net!infoshare!passport.ca!grumpy.insinc.net!limestone.kosone.com!cafe-ws3
From: cafe@intcafe.kosone.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bench-type universal milling machine
Date: 24 Jan 1996 15:23:11 GMT
Organization: Internet Cafe
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Message-ID: <4e5isv$7v8@limestone.kosone.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cafe-ws3.kosone.com
Summary: seeking new or good used machine.
Keywords: bench. milling. universal.
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

Want to buy a good used bench-type universal(vertial-horizontal) milling
machine, preferably a "Centec" 2B or similar.
Please reply to cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:42:30 EST 1996
Article: 22403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!zetnet.co.uk!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fabricating Crankshafts: questions!
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:14:13 +0000
Organization: Home
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Distribution: world
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Edward Haas writes

>       Hello, all! I would like to make a "fabricated" crankshaft for a 
>3-cylinder engine. It will be built up of various sections of bar, etc. 
>and it will need to have 120deg. throws. What I'd like  to do is key the 
>various parts together, but I'm clueless as to how one gets the accuracy 
>needed to broach keyways to, say. plus or minus a tenth of a degree. Can 
>someone explain a trick or two?

If it is not too big then the loctite method seems to have a lot going
for it.

For a press/shrink or adhesive assembly, one useful tip is to make the
main shaft as on continuous piece from one end to the other, assemble
all the webs and pins onto this shaft, and then cut out the sections of
shaft between (the bits that would otherwise tend to bend the connecting
rods).

--
Charles


Turnpike evaluation. For information, email: info@turnpike.com


From Pinkerton_Kevin%si@mr.nawcad.navy.mil Mon Jan 29 10:42:31 EST 1996
Article: 22404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!aug2.augsburg.edu!petit
From: Pinkerton_Kevin%si@mr.nawcad.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Date: 26 Jan 1996 11:53:13 GMT
Organization: AlliedSignal Technical Services
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References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com>
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It Metal Web News and it can be found at:

 http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html

Good stuff there.



From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:32 EST 1996
Article: 22405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hollow Mills (surface finish?)
Date: 25 Jan 1996 23:43:20 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Jan 25  3:43:20 PM PST 1996

Praying eventual forgiveness for posting a question of a production
oriented nature in REC.crafts.metalworking, I'd like to solicit the
opinion(s) of anyone having some experience using a hollow mill in
the turret of a 2nd. Op. lathe.  Specifically, I'm concerned with the
surface finish on (primarily) aluminum parts.  O.D. tol. is +/- .005 so
that's of no serious concern.  I've spoken with one manufacturer of
adjustable hollow mills and, of course, he thinks his product will
perform miracles in this regard.  I'm more than a little hesitant to
invest $300+ to verify (or worse, refute) his position in the matter
however.

We are currently turning these parts and holding 8 to 12 uin. Ra but
our customer would like a better surface finish than this, without
having to pay (of course) to have the parts centerless ground.  I
thought that while the customer is busy looking for the free lunch
he's certain must be out there SOMEWHERE, I'd investigate this
approach.  Any advice, except that suggesting a much warmer climate for
the customer (I've already thought about telling him where to go, at
great length), is sincerely appreciated.

Thanks, Dale





From shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:32 EST 1996
Article: 22406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!altair.krl.caltech.edu!shoppa
From: shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Date: 26 Jan 1996 12:48:06 GMT
Organization: Kellogg Radiation Lab, Caltech
Lines: 21
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References: <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: altair.krl.caltech.edu
Keywords: cold blue

In article <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>,
Alan D. Pence <adp@cs.ucsb.edu> wrote:
>Howdy
>
>There was a post a few months back where someone
>recomended:
>           Brownell's Oxpho Blue - a cold blueing compound
>
>I've made the rounds of all my favorite industrial supply
>houses, and could not find it. The closest thing I could
>find is a black oxide "kit" at $55 to $85.  And that is
>a bit rich for my taste (I love the finish though!)
>
>Does anyone know where I might order some?

You should try a gunsmithing shop and/or firearms retailer
in your area.  While I often hear Brownell products mentioned
in the context of firearms, I have never seen Brownell products
in any industrial supply house.

Tim. (shoppa@altair.krl.caltech.edu)


From hmadden@peganet.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:33 EST 1996
Article: 22407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!perseus.peganet.com!usenet
From: hmadden@peganet.com (Harry Madden)
Newsgroups: alt.bbs.metal,alt.cult-movies.rocky-horror,alt.music.black-metal,alt.music.rockabilly,alt.rock-n-roll,alt.rock-n-roll.acdc,alt.rock-n-roll.aerosmith,alt.rock-n-roll.classic,alt.rock-n-roll.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.death,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.gnr,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.heavy,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.ironmaiden,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.megadeth,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.motley-crue,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.progressive,alt.rock-n-roll.oldies,alt.rock-n-roll.psychedelic,alt.rock-n-roll.stones,alt.rock-n-roll.symphonic,alt.sports.baseball.col-rockies,alt.sports.basketball.nba.hou-rockets,alt.tv.rockford-files,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.rockets,relcom.commerce.metals,sci.engr.metallurgy,tw.bbs.music.rocknroll
Subject: Re: WTB Stryper CD
Date: 26 Jan 1996 14:20:08 GMT
Organization: Pegasus Software & Imaging
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <4eanuo$dk0@perseus.peganet.com>
References: <4dd93h$fe8@utrhcs.cs.utwente.nl> <4dehoj$fo6@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <30fc6024.16218748@news.esper.com> <3102F690.5483@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us> <4e98q6$e1q@newsgate.dircon.co.uk>
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In article <4e98q6$e1q@newsgate.dircon.co.uk>, dmage@dircon.co.uk says...
>
>In article <3102F690.5483@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us>, 
>Angie,sfup@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us says...
>>
>>Mr.Tinkertain wrote:
>>> 
>>> Your looking in the wrong place son !!!
>>
>>You know what amazes me about this newsgroup?  The fact that, just 
>>because some of you don't listen to what someone is requesting, you feel 
>>a need to criticize someone else's taste in music.  Mr. Tinkertain, this 
>>is NOT directed at you...I'm calling on memory of other responses to this 
>>poor guy's request for Stryper material.  Your request wasn't rude.
>>
>>Y'know, I was never a Stryper fan, either...thought they sucked, as a 
>>matter of fact, and still do.  But he didn't ASK us our opinion of his 
>>taste in music...he asked us if we might have it lying around so that he 
>>might buy it from us for his collection (or whatever).
>>
>>Sheesh..be nice.  One response to this request was downright nasty.  
>>Others have been sarcastic, at best.
>>
>>If you don't have the damned Stryper material, DON'T RESPOND!!
>
>Right on Angie!
>
>Lots of people don't understand how I can listen to Morbid Angel one day, 
>Stryper the next, then Bob James, Steely Dan, Filter, Miles Davis ... 
>
>What are we saying about ourselves with the music we listen to?  What are 
>we saying about ourselves -- and each other -- when we dog somebody out 
>for listening to Bon Jovi (my own personal favorite band to HATE)?
>
>I'm a music fan.  Period.  And Angie's right.
>
>On the other hand, let all opinions be heard!
>
>DMage
>
>
	What is all of this nonsense about music doing in a newsgroup 
dealing with metallurgy?
Harry



From szatezal@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:34 EST 1996
Article: 22408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!szatezal
From: szatezal@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Shane M Zatezalo)
Newsgroups: alt.bbs.metal,alt.cult-movies.rocky-horror,alt.music.black-metal,alt.music.rockabilly,alt.rock-n-roll,alt.rock-n-roll.acdc,alt.rock-n-roll.aerosmith,alt.rock-n-roll.classic,alt.rock-n-roll.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.death,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.gnr,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.heavy,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.ironmaiden,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.megadeth,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.motley-crue,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.progressive,alt.rock-n-roll.oldies,alt.rock-n-roll.psychedelic,alt.rock-n-roll.stones,alt.rock-n-roll.symphonic,alt.sports.baseball.col-rockies,alt.sports.basketball.nba.hou-rockets,alt.tv.rockford-files,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.rockets,relcom.commerce.metals,sci.engr.metallurgy,tw.bbs.music.rocknroll
Subject: Re: WTB Stryper CD
Followup-To: alt.cult-movies.rocky-horror,alt.music.black-metal,alt.music.rockabilly,alt.rock-n-roll,alt.rock-n-roll.acdc,alt.rock-n-roll.aerosmith,alt.rock-n-roll.classic,alt.rock-n-roll.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.death,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.gnr,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.hard,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.heavy,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.ironmaiden,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.megadeth,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.motley-crue,alt.rock-n-roll.metal.progressive,alt.rock-n-roll.oldies,alt.rock-n-roll.psychedelic,alt.rock-n-roll.stones,alt.rock-n-roll.symphonic,alt.sports.baseball.col-rockies,alt.sports.basketball.nba.hou-rockets,alt.tv.rockford-files,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.rockets,relcom.commerce.metals,tw.bbs.music.rocknroll
Date: 26 Jan 1996 14:22:22 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
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In article <4e98q6$e1q@newsgate.dircon.co.uk>,
The Body Electric <dmage@dircon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <3102F690.5483@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us>, 
>Angie,sfup@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us says...
>>
>>Mr.Tinkertain wrote:
>>> 
>>> Your looking in the wrong place son !!!
>>
>>You know what amazes me about this newsgroup?  The fact that, just 
>>because some of you don't listen to what someone is requesting, you feel 
>>a need to criticize someone else's taste in music.  Mr. Tinkertain, this 
>>is NOT directed at you...I'm calling on memory of other responses to this 
>>poor guy's request for Stryper material.  Your request wasn't rude.
>>
>>Y'know, I was never a Stryper fan, either...thought they sucked, as a 
>>matter of fact, and still do.  But he didn't ASK us our opinion of his 
>>taste in music...he asked us if we might have it lying around so that he 
>>might buy it from us for his collection (or whatever).
>>
>>Sheesh..be nice.  One response to this request was downright nasty.  
>>Others have been sarcastic, at best.
>>
>>If you don't have the damned Stryper material, DON'T RESPOND!!
>
>Right on Angie!
>
>Lots of people don't understand how I can listen to Morbid Angel one day, 
>Stryper the next, then Bob James, Steely Dan, Filter, Miles Davis ... 

A lot of us really couldn't care what you listen to. Keep this
out of the bbs software newsgroups.

I'm sure you guys don't want to read our crap, and we sure
as hell don't want to read yours.

Thanks!
-- 
              http://www.ecaetc.ohio-state.edu/shane/
            NeXTMail: shane@galadriel.ecaetc.ohio-state.edu



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:35 EST 1996
Article: 22409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 14:37:59 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 10
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The Clausing 8520/8530 vertical mill is an excellent machine, IMHO.  A full size bridgeport is nice,
but they do take up a lot of space in a home shop and are not fun to move into a basement 8^).  Don't let
the Atlas press label put you off, it's just that they bought out Clausing.  The quality has not changed at
all, I own an old one (before the Atlas buyout) and just recently purchased a late model one for a friend 
which I am in the process of converting to CNC.  It is a #2 MT with a drawbar.  Collets are still available, 
but you might want to look into one of the Erickson DA Collet Chucks which will fit this machine.   As 
for prices, I paid about 1200 for my older one, the newer one was 2400.

John Lovallo



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:35 EST 1996
Article: 22410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: novice looking for book
Date: 26 Jan 1996 13:35:38 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4ealba$sde@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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I've found that that Argus series of books from England has been pretty much
uniformly good, no matter what topic I've picked up.

Tubal Cain's "Model Engineer's Handbook," also an English publication, is
quite likely also very good, based on all I've seen of his work in Model
Engineer magazine.

For lathe work, I really like "The Amateur's Lathe," by L.H. Sparey (also
English).

Most/all of these books are available from various U.S. sources, or certainly
>from  TEE Publishing, in England.  I've dealt with TEE via mailorder, and been
quite satisfied with their service.



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:36 EST 1996
Article: 22411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: best disposal for used paint thinner
Date: 26 Jan 1996 13:39:09 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4ealht$sde@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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I have gotten to the point where I throw out paint rollers.  It's just too much
hassle to clean them.  If I want to stop painting for a while, I wrap the roller
in a plastic bag and fasten it with a rubber band.  The roller will stay usable
for several days that way, if need be.  Then, when I'm done painting the room or
rooms, I throw the roller away.  

But I still wash out brushes; a good brush costs too much to throw away!



From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Mon Jan 29 10:42:37 EST 1996
Article: 22412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhall@nbnet.nb.ca (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend lathe
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 15:34:09 GMT
Organization: NBNet
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References: <4dh9hn$rbf@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <4drl6u$p4j@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com> <darylb-220196171004@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <4e1k1g$8t7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <1996Jan25.192212.24168@sequent.com>
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In article <1996Jan25.192212.24168@sequent.com>,
   stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg) wrote:
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Path: 
nbt.nbnet.nb.ca!news.unb.ca!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.intern
etmci.com!in1.uu.net!gateway.sequent.com!muncher.sequent.com!stuartf
>From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
>Subject: Re: South Bend lathe
>Message-ID: <1996Jan25.192212.24168@sequent.com>
>Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet )
>Nntp-Posting-Host: eng3.sequent.com
>Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
>References: <4dh9hn$rbf@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> 
<4drl6u$p4j@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com> 
<darylb-220196171004@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <4e1k1g$8t7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
>Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 19:22:12 GMT
>Lines: 22
>Status: N
>
>In <darylb-220196171004@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
>writes: 
>>Watching this cause I'm interested in the answer and your answer makes
>>sense but my South Bend states the bed is 7ft (14.5" x 7ft) and when you
>>measure it that includes the part the headstock sits on.
>
>In article <4e1k1g$8t7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>,
>Dale A. Keltie  <dakeltie@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>I always thought, perhaps erroneously, that the dimension referred to
>>the max. distance between centers.
>
>You're both correct.
>
>When a lathe is described as an "A by B" size, the A is the swing
>and the B is the distance between centers, *not* the bed length,
>which may be several feet longer than B.  So Dale is correct.
>
>The bed length generally *does* include the portion under the headstock
>and any gap.  (At least for smaller lathes.  Some engine lathe designs
>don't support the headstock on the bed.)  So Daryl is correct.
>
>Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)

I'm using a new news reader so I apologize if this gets posted incorrectly.

 I have followed this thread and was waiting for somebody to quote "the 
source". they didn't so I will:

Sout Bend in "How To Run a Lathe", page 11, 56th edition says: "In the United 
States the size of a Screw Cutting Lathe is designated by the swing over bed 
and the length of bed...". Reference is made to an illustration indicating 
that the "bed length" is the entire bed casting length. My copy of the SB 
catalog for 1936 describes lathes this way as well, eg. 9X36, 9X48, etc. Thus 
the lathe mentioned originally in this thread is a 9X36, even though its 
actual working capacity is less.

John


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:38 EST 1996
Article: 22413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy Harbor Freight Drill/Lathe/Mill?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 13:52:44 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4eambc$82h@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <flynnj-1901961612360001@flynn1.jmc.tju.edu> <DLK4Cw.Fnp@iquest.net> <4ea323$aht@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

I would be hesitant to buy a machine tool from them.  Buying a name brand
is probably pretty safe, but even there you can get better prices
elsewhere.

I've bought two major items from them.  Their nobrand dust collector was
a pretty good deal.  There's not too much you can do to mess those up.

I also bought a medium size MIG from them.  Bad mistake.  It did serve
as a useful parts kit when I rebuilt it (all new electronics and wire
feed.  One of these days I'll write it up for the metal web site).

The problem with buying cheap machinery unseen is that, if it turns
out to be junk, it'll cost you an arm and a leg to ship it back to
get your money back.  Freight rates aren't exactly cheap and you may be
out as much as 30-50% of your purchase price for return shipping.
Makes you wonder how much they pay for that stuff if they can afford
to ship it free.
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:38 EST 1996
Article: 22414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: turning Ebony on a lathe
Date: 26 Jan 1996 14:05:20 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4ean30$8cu@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <1996Jan22.165415.19965@roper.uwyo.edu> <4e2ra0$1jr@news2.acs.oakland.edu> <4e8pca$4fn@nntp4.u.washington.edu>
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In article <4e8pca$4fn@nntp4.u.washington.edu> darkstar@u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann) writes:
>amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth) writes:
>
>
>(Re turning ebony on a metal lathe)
>
>>My two cents worth:
>
>> a) Don't do it on a metal lathe - use a wood lathe
>> b) Don't breathe the dust - it's bad for you
>> c) Don't leave any dust on your machine tools.  It's abrasive and
>>    bad for them as well
>> d) See a
>
>As others, including Jim McGill, have pointed out, it's not only possible 
>but also sometimes desirable to use a metal lathe for turning wood.  

[various good points omitted]

Well, I did say $.02 worth.  I must have been having a crabby morning; I
managed to contradict most of what I said in a post on a different
thread :-)

Pattern shops do this all of the time.  I still think you have to watch
out on keeping it clean; wood dust can get everywhere.  A while ago I
picked up a Palmgren rotary cross slide from a pattern shop going out
of business.  I had to completely disassemble it to get all of the
sawdust out and make it work without jamming.



--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From marimba1@northcoast.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:40 EST 1996
Article: 22415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!miwok!northcoast.com!news
From: Marimba One <marimba1@northcoast.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stainless Steel Hardware Search
Date: 26 Jan 1996 15:48:02 GMT
Organization: Northcoast Internet
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4eat3i$29a@redwood.northcoast.com>
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Can anybody suggest a good stainless steel hardware supplier (nuts, 
bolts, screws, etc.)?  We use many different stainless steel hardware 
items and are looking to set up an account with a company that can 
provide prompt service at a reasonable price.

It would be best if the company were on the U.S. West Coast (California, 
Oregon, Washington), but not absolutely necessary.

Please e-mail me [Sean Olsen] marimba1@northcoast.com

Thanks in advance.




From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:40 EST 1996
Article: 22416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Cleanliness and Shop Waste
Date: 25 Jan 1996 13:40:28 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4e818c$fvb@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4drh59$pdt@netnews.upenn.edu> <m.clayton-2301960846180001@mike.fren.canterbury.ac.nz> <310747DF.6D16@follonett.no>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

My local landfill runs a recycling program.  One of their containers
is labeled 'Misc Metals'.  When I get a can of chips and swarf I just
dump it in there since it's 95% steel and aluminum.

Actually, I'd like to take OUT some of the stuff I see in that bin :-)



--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From cafe@intcafe.kosone.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:41 EST 1996
Article: 22417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!istar.net!infoshare!passport.ca!grumpy.insinc.net!limestone.kosone.com!cafe-ws2
From: cafe@intcafe.kosone.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted--Bench universal milling machine
Date: 26 Jan 1996 15:16:25 GMT
Organization: Internet Cafe
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4ear89$e2o@limestone.kosone.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cafe-ws2.kosone.com
Summary: Looking for seller of new/used bench universal milling machine.
Keywords: milling machine, universal, bench-type, new, used.
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

I want to buy a new or used bench-type universal milling machine, 
preferably a "Centec" 2B. If you know of any suppliers, preferably in North 
America, but not necessarily so, please reply to:cafe063@int.kosone.com


From cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:42 EST 1996
Article: 22418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!istar.net!infoshare!passport.ca!grumpy.insinc.net!limestone.kosone.com!cafe-ws2
From: cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Update--To buy bench universal milling machine
Date: 26 Jan 1996 15:34:10 GMT
Organization: Internet Cafe
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4eas9i$g04@limestone.kosone.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cafe-ws2.kosone.com
Summary: Looking for source of bench milling machine
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

I want to buy a bench-type universal milling machine, preferably a 
"Centec"2B, new or used. Do you know any sppliers, preferably in North 
America, but not necessarily so. Please reply to: 
cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com      Error in address in previous posting.


From TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca Mon Jan 29 10:42:43 EST 1996
Article: 22419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!watserv3.uwaterloo.ca!novice.uwaterloo.ca!watercow.watstar.uwaterloo.ca!TJNYE
From: TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca (Tim Nye)
Subject: Re: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Sender: news@novice.uwaterloo.ca (system PRIVILEGED account)
Message-ID: <TJNYE.1417.000B295A@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 16:09:42 GMT
Lines: 14
References: <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com>
Nntp-Posting-Host: watercow.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Organization: University of Waterloo

In article <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com> Randolph Lee <r.lee@windshadow.com> writes:

>the 4 magnets used to move the heads are amazingly strong for their 
>size... I would guess they are some sort of rare earth sintered 
>type... lots of use for these in the shop.... but the chrome plating 
>is comeing off 2 of them and one shatered when it was dropped... 
>they seem a bit brittle.

A drive I dismantled once had four of these voice-coil magnets (probably 1/
2" x 1/2" x 1/16" each), each pair glued steel backing plate.  One pair 
was able to pick up a 40 pound lathe chuck.  Pretty amazing.

Tim



From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Mon Jan 29 10:42:43 EST 1996
Article: 22420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!torn!news.ccs.queensu.ca!news.rmc.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Copper Ornamental Stampings
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:03:31 -0500
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-2601961203310001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <4e0a9n$8p7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <xq0yzDA3uLBxEwBV@bobunitt.demon.co.uk> <Pine.SUN.3.91.960123150924.22749C-100000@noel.pd.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: korolukm.rmc.ca

In article <Pine.SUN.3.91.960123150924.22749C-100000@noel.pd.org>, Jack
<jack@noel.pd.org> wrote:

>         H E L P
> 
> I have been offered the job of rebuilding a copper awning that provides 
> cover over the entrance to a building. Most of the surface is flat
copper with 
> applied ornamental stamped finials (which rise slightly above the small 
> parapet, at intervals, around the three sides of the roof), inlaid 
> rosettes, geometric shapes and lettering. Additionally there is a stamped
> valance skirting that runs around the bottom border.
> 
> My question is..... does anybody know of a company that still sells
> decorative ornamental copper stampings of this nature?
> 
> If not...... how costly would it be to make a mold from an existing
> part and have a die made for reproducing that part?....and....... if this
> is the alternative, who might still do copper stamping?
> 
> 
> jack sinclair
> jack@pd.org

I'm sure that the thickness of copper is minimal in this type of
application. From your description I would think that you  would only need
a few dozen stampings. 

I would try to take an impression of the existing piece using fibreglas to
create a female mould (die). Then make a male copy to use as a punch from
this mould. It would be wise to try to coat the inside of the mould with a
layer of something (paint?) to approximate the thickness of copper you
will be using before making the punch. If you will stamp the pieces and
solder them to the awning you could get away with even thinner copper,
hence less thickness to make up.

This will result in a matched die set. All that needs to be done now is to
anneal small pieces of copper and put them thru the die using an arbour
press.

Orest

Fast, cheap and easy.


From steamer@west.net Mon Jan 29 10:42:45 EST 1996
Article: 22421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 09:39:36 -0800
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4eb3ko$t6t@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <4e760i$sj2@reader2.ix.netcom.com> <4eap07$d32@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


	--There is a round-arm version of this machine and later versions have  
a keyed slot for setting it perpendicular to the table. If the machine 
you're looking at doesn't have this feature, well, you're in the same fix 
as anyone with a Bridgeport or any other mill. Always thought that was a 
nice touch on the later models. 
	--See if the mill includes the Clausing vise: this was one neat 
little item as well: if I could find one I'd retrofit it on my own machine.
	--Clausing made a dandy mill and I'd snap it up.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	...Yet another
	phone: 	(805) 968-7534	:	crackpot...
	FAX:	(805) 562-8928  :	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From anon.cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:42:45 EST 1996
Article: 22422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!globalnet!usenet
From: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (laughing LARRY!)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: turning Ebony on a lathe
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 18:09:06 GMT
Organization: anonymous
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4eb5ct$bs1@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>
References: <4e0kcs$j75@pippin.globalnet.co.uk> <310511C7.5604@elseware.com>
Reply-To: anon.cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk
NNTP-Posting-Host: client0511.globalnet.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Jim McGill <jim@elseware.com> wrote:

>laughing LARRY! wrote:
>> 
>>  Has anyone any tips on this topic?

>I've done quite a bit in making wind instruments and tuning 
>pegs. It tends to splinter and chip.  It has the nasty 
>combination of being very hard but not very cohesive. Even 
>the best wood has invisible checks in it, so expect to 
>loose 10% or so of your turnings. Expect to do a lot of sanding 
>to get a final finish. Use sharp tools, a gentle touch (don't 
>hog it) and be patient in your sanding, it's tough to get the 
>grit marks out.  Work all the way down to 600 grit to get a good 
>finish. What's kind of project are you planning?  
>Jim McGill

I will be turning some ebony handles for silverware items,could i ask what
kind of a cutting tool you advise? also cutting angles??
I will be turning metal items also so a metal lathe is the one i have in mind
I have some sri lankan ebony which is a dark brown colour, i havent found a
jet black ebony. Is there such a thing or is it stained black?



From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:46 EST 1996
Article: 22423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy Harbor Freight Drill/Lathe/Mill?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 18:14:08 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4eb5lg$q21@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
References: <flynnj-1901961612360001@flynn1.jmc.tju.edu> <DLK4Cw.Fnp@iquest.net>
Reply-To: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: hd56-170.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2.5

In <DLK4Cw.Fnp@iquest.net>, JTWaidner@iquest.net (John Waidner) writes:
>flynnj@jeflin.tju.edu (John T. Flynn) sez:
>
>>I am thinking of buying one of Harbor Freight's combination drill press/
>>milling machine/ metal lathe units ($1099.00 one).  I believe that these
>>units are made in China.  Does anyone have experience with these units and
>>are they worth the money?  How do they compare to a similar "Smithy"
>>unit?  I plan to use the unit for light metal work/ gunsmithing sort of
>>things.  No heavy duty use.
>
>Does anyone have any Harbor Freight tools?  What do you think of them?
>
>
>---
>John Waidner
>JTWaidner@IQuest.net
>Carmel, IN
>

John,

I have had problems with Harbor Freight recently.  I ordered a bender, 
received it months later and when I opened it up parts were missing.  I have
tried to contact Harbor Freight about the problems but they will not acknowledge
my letters.  There phones are constantly jammed.

I would think about buying from them again.

Regards,

Dave Cole


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:47 EST 1996
Article: 22424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!wkaiser
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Date: 26 Jan 1996 18:49:03 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4eb7mv$fe9@mudraker.mtholyoke.edu>
References: <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mhc.mtholyoke.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

Randolph Lee (r.lee@windshadow.com) wrote:
> My local ISP Tech brought a vintage 1991 1 gig 5" seagate Hard drive 
> into the shop and we had fun tearing it apart...


> the Disk platers themselves  (8 of them) were very unifoum in 
> thickness at 0.0746 + or - about .0002.... 4 of the 8 were .07450... 
> to the limits of my metrology equipment... = or - .00005 there use 
> as packing seems obvious... (they would aslo make a nice set of wind 
> chimes I think)

> the spacer rings at 0.1704 were also within those above limits


Sounds like a Tesla turbine waiting to happen.

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:48 EST 1996
Article: 22425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q:quartz for sandblasting?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 18:44:08 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4eb7do$q21@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
References: <4cp950$i98@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca> <30f9d2df.170904925@news.demon.co.uk>
Reply-To: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: hd56-170.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2.5

In <30f9d2df.170904925@news.demon.co.uk>, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) writes:
>chrustie@bnr.ca (Bruce Chrustie) wrote:
>
>>Has anyone used quartz for sandblasting? 
>

As said before quartz and silica sand are bad news.  They cause silicosis. (Lung desease)

Try finding something commonly called "Black Beauty".  It is basically crushed furnace slag 
that comes out of large coal fired boilers.  Find a big power plant fired with coal and you will find
the slag.  It is very cheap in Ohio.  About $3.00/100lb bag.  Commonly used to blast bridge steel.

This material is very low in free silicon which causes silicosis.

Good Luck,

Dave


From dmiller@gcg.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:49 EST 1996
Article: 22426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news
From: Dan Miller <dmiller@gcg.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: faq location/making canoe hardware
Date: 25 Jan 1996 15:45:33 GMT
Organization: GCG
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4e88it$cfq@news.doit.wisc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.104.224.201
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (X11; I; SunOS 5.3 sun4c)
X-URL: news:rec.crafts.metalworking

Hi-

I saw the faqs go through here, emailed myself the location where they
are stored, and promptly lost it to the great bitbucket in the sky.  If
someone could give me the address, I would appreciate it.

As someone with no experience working metals, I am exploring the 
possibilities of making my own sailing canoe hardware.  By sailing
canoe, I mean the decked canoes of the ACA ca. 1880-1895, of which
perhaps Rushton's Vesper is best known.  Fittings were generally made of
brass or bronze, adn some nickel-plate over ?, and would include such things
as deck plates, mast tubes, rudders, tiller components, centerboards, blocks,
etc.  The only commercial source I know of is Bob Lavertue's Sprinfield
Fan Centerboard Co. in Springfield MA.  I have not seen his work, but
understand it is quite nice, but boy is it expensive....  If anyone
has pointers to sources of info on making this type of stuff, I would
like to know.

Thanks much!
Dan
-- 
Daniel Miller
dmiller@gcg.com
Amateur Boatbuilder and Small Craft History Afficiando
So many boats, so little time....



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:49 EST 1996
Article: 22427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New Publication on Metal WEB News
Date: 25 Jan 1996 16:50:58 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 57
Message-ID: <4e8cdi$s5r@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1 (Windows; U; 16bit)

Bill Gray is going to publish the January edition
of 'THE CRANK CALLS', the monthly newsletter of
the Bay Area Engine Modelers club.  If this works
out OK, we will attempt to make it a monthly
feature.

BAEM meets once a month, usually at Bennetts Automotive,
a manufacturer of reproduction Shelby Cobra automobiles.

Our December meeting was a little shy of models but we
had a few.  The January meeting was loaded! Pictures and
story for that meeting will appear in the February issue
of The Crank Calls.  

We had everything from :

A nearly completed aircooled V-8
built to the design of Eric Whittle (currently serialized 
in Model Engineer) that can be held in one's hand.

A largely completed 3/4" scale Kinner 5 cylinder radial engine
that has been taken to its present stage in just over 60 days.

A 1/2 scale Rumley Oil Pull tractor engine.  Again, nearly
completed.  This model has a 5" bore and an 11" stroke.  Except
for the valve cages, everything has been built from plate, bar
stock and scrap.  Nothing in the supply list was ever seen on
an engine before.  The built-up head has full coolant passages.
The outside of the head was the bottom of an old flat-bottom
fire extinguisher!  This is being built by the same guy who built
a 1/4 scale model of a two-cylinder Rumley.  It is fully drivable
and will comfortably hold the driver.

A Ringbom heat engine running on a 25 watt cup heater.  This was the
third showing of this engine.  The first two months, it took a 
propane torch to make it run.  Now, after significant friction
reduction and volumetric adjustments, it runs very well on little
power.  Recommendation from this model engineer was don't try this
at home if you value your sanity!

Contributions are what will keep Metal WEB News alive.  Articles,
pictures, how-to-do's, reports, technical data.  Anything that
can be written about should be submitted.  The nice thing about
the News is that it can include pictures.  So when you go out to
your shop and snap your shop, project or the neat mechanical toy
you found on your last vacation, get a copy to Bill Gray.  Or myself.
I can digitize snapshots reasonably easy.  I'll even return your
original (but I have been known to misplace things so don't send the
world's only picture of a true perpetual motion device).

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus






From daveb@iinet.net.au Mon Jan 29 10:42:50 EST 1996
Article: 22428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.uwa.edu.au!classic.iinet.com.au!swing.iinet.net.au!opera.iinet.net.au!news
From: daveb@iinet.net.au (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: My name is Laura.
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 00:46:51 GMT
Organization: iiNet Technologies
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4e3v3p$uoh@opera.iinet.net.au>
References: <4dtbu1$nqd@inter.interserve.com.hk> <4dtj0h$rgf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grunge138.dy.iinet.net.au
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

faiths9508@aol.com (FaithS9508) wrote:

>This is pretty amusing...I don't know too many quilters and crafters who
>feel the need to call halfway across the world for hot phone chat with
>another woman.  But I suppose it is possbible.   Somehow, this post is
>oddly misplaced, don't you think?

Quilting?? On rec.crafts.metalworking?? This couldn't be a chain-mail
project, by any chance ?  :-)  



--  Dave Brooks
PGP public key: finger  daveb@opera.iinet.net.au
                servers daveb@iinet.net.au
    fingerprint 20 8F 95 22 96 D6 1C 0B  3D 4D C3 D4 50 A1 C4 34



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:51 EST 1996
Article: 22429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: faq location/making canoe hardware
Message-ID: <1996Jan26.084307.20085@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Jan 96 08:43:07 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4e88it$cfq@news.doit.wisc.edu>
Distribution: world
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Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
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In article <4e88it$cfq@news.doit.wisc.edu>, Dan Miller <dmiller@gcg.com> writes:
|>Hi-
|>
|>I saw the faqs go through here, emailed myself the location where they
|>are stored, and promptly lost it to the great bitbucket in the sky.  If
|>someone could give me the address, I would appreciate it.

Anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal directory, or
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:51 EST 1996
Article: 22430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Message-ID: <1996Jan26.090241.20087@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Jan 96 09:02:41 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com>
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X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 18

In article <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com>, esaville@ix.netcom.com(Eric Saville ) writes:
|>I am trying to get a hold of a schematic for a circuit to run a 3 phase
|>motor on 2 phase converter. I recently saw a posting that said they
|>were available at web site http://plains.uwyo.edu /"metal, when I try
|>access it I recieve an error- forbiden. Can any one provide me with the
|>schematic, or tell me another way to get them. Thank you.

Well, first you got the plains address wrong.  The character before
"metal" is not supposed to be a quote, it is the tilde character.
On many keyboards this is left of the "1" key, shifted.  In other words:
      http://plains.uwyo.edu /~metal

Second, I'm afraid I've not yet gotten a 3-phase article in place at the
above.  However, check out:

  http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html

Jim


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:52 EST 1996
Article: 22431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: 25 Jan 1996 19:23:59 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <4e8lcf$bbh@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <4e760i$sj2@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
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Wm. Congreve (Sr.) (congreve@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I have a chance to purchase a Clausing knee-type vertical milling
: machine, which at one point says # 8520, which I take to mean the model
: number.  It stands about five feet high, and the table is 24" the long
: way.  Seems to be a Morse taper #2 but I didn't get a chance to take
: the end mill holder out of it to confirm that.

: I'm a bit off-put by the label "Clausing Division of Atlas Press Co"
: because of the unhappy days I spent with an Atlas 6" lathe until I
: replaced it with a Myford 7.

I think these machines are of a VERY different caliber than the 6" Atlas
(or even my 10" Atlas).  However, since you've seen it, your eyes should
already have told you what kind of quality was built into the machine.
Most likely, ANY knee-type mill will be a whole different class of machine
than your Enco.  I have an Enco lathe/mill/drill at work, and the alignment
problem is its worst (but not only) deficiency.  My 1940's Bridgeport is
SO much better in so many ways!  More rigid (by FAR), axes more stable and
true, those huge ways tend to prevent the table from sliding around under
cutting forces.

: I want ***something*** better than my bottom of the line Enco mill
: drill, and being able to keep alignment with the knee would be a great
: step forward, as of course you can't do that with the mill/drill beyond
: the range of the quill.  I don't need anything as large as a
: Bridgeport; and have no aspirations of putting on any CNC devices.

Well, you already know what bothers you most about your existing machine.

: Would I be happy with this Clausing?  What's a fair price to offer for
: it? There doesn't seem to be any slop in any of the three motions, and
: they crank around smoothly.  Table isn't chewed up.  Is there anything
: modern, even new, which will have really good quality yet not quite the
: size or price of a Bridgeport?  I really do want to be able to do both
: jig boring and end-mill milling to a pretty high degree of accuracy
: (say +/- a thou or so).

I have just gotten a set of 'Veriscope' optical readouts (glass scale
and viewer) completely functional on my bridgeport.  It is the 1950's
equivalent of a DRO.  It cost me $15, and besides some corrosion on the
back of the mirrored scales, it is in good shape.  I have done some
slot cutting to .002" accuracy in .092" 2024 Aluminum.  Without the
optical readouts, I could have never done this well.  I used to use the
calibrated dials on the leadscrews, but the backlash (lost motion) was
quite severe, and even if you approached a reading from the same direction
each tme, there was still at least .005" of imprecision.  So an optical
or digital readout is really necessary for the finest accuracy.  


From r.lee@windshadow.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:53 EST 1996
Article: 22432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.sprintlink.net!moby.nantucket.net!news
From: Randolph Lee <r.lee@windshadow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 12:25:36 +0000
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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My local ISP Tech brought a vintage 1991 1 gig 5" seagate Hard drive 
into the shop and we had fun tearing it apart...

many of the bits a chunks will be found to be of use in the  HSM 
shop...

the Disk platers themselves  (8 of them) were very unifoum in 
thickness at 0.0746 + or - about .0002.... 4 of the 8 were .07450... 
to the limits of my metrology equipment... = or - .00005 there use 
as packing seems obvious... (they would aslo make a nice set of wind 
chimes I think)

the spacer rings at 0.1704 were also within those above limits

the wires to the heads were about 0.0013 in dia and most of the 
other parts seemed to be of a very high standard... it was fun to 
see the guts of the thing and gain a better understanding of how it 
works but asside from the case and the nice torix SS hardware I 
don't know what I will do with the misc parts... I may use the main 
board as the striker for a wind chime made from some of the disks... 
and the head carrier arms look like I might use them for'something' 

the 4 magnets used to move the heads are amazingly strong for their 
size... I would guess they are some sort of rare earth sintered 
type... lots of use for these in the shop.... but the chrome plating 
is comeing off 2 of them and one shatered when it was dropped... 
they seem a bit brittle.

the bottom motor bearing was shot (it was amazingly badly worn) but 
the top one seemed to be fine there was evidence of a head crash on 
3 of the platters as well...


if the chance to scrap onew of these units comes your way don't pass 
it up... I think you will find it as fun as I did...

~R


From darkstar@u.washington.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:54 EST 1996
Article: 22433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.u.washington.edu!darkstar
From: darkstar@u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: turning Ebony on a lathe
Date: 25 Jan 1996 20:32:10 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <4e8pca$4fn@nntp4.u.washington.edu>
References: <4e0kcs$j75@pippin.globalnet.co.uk> <1996Jan22.165415.19965@roper.uwyo.edu> <4e2ra0$1jr@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
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amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth) writes:


(Re turning ebony on a metal lathe)

>My two cents worth:

> a) Don't do it on a metal lathe - use a wood lathe
> b) Don't breathe the dust - it's bad for you
> c) Don't leave any dust on your machine tools.  It's abrasive and
>    bad for them as well
> d) See a

As others, including Jim McGill, have pointed out, it's not only possible 
but also sometimes desirable to use a metal lathe for turning wood.  
Ebony is a good wood to turn on the metal lathe, since it's almost as 
hard as metal!  Seriously, I do it all the time, for cutting tapers on 
tuning pins and bridge pins and a host of other applications.  The ML 
gives me a lot more accuracy than trying to do it by hand on a wood 
lathe.  I learned this technique from Micheal Hubbert, who uses a Myford 
Super 7.  

Other musical instrument makers are doing this as well: Robert Lundberg 
and Eric Meyer both use modified metal lathes as template turning lathes 
for making tuning pegs.  Lundberg's work is documented in a series of 
articles in _American Lutherie_, the journal of the Guild of American 
Luthiers.  Eric gave lectures on his techniques at the recent GAL 
convention. 

Alden and Cali Hackmann
Olympic Instruments - makers of fine hurdy-gurdies
PO Box 166, Indianola WA 98342, 360-297-7234
darkstar@u.washington.edu, chackman@linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/HGhome.html
"Beati illi qui in circulum circumeunt, fient enim magnae rotae."


-- 
Alden F.M. Hackmann                        darkstar@u.washington.edu
Web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/    
"Beati illi qui in circulum circumeunt, fient enim magnae rotae."


From fwk@hogpb.ho.att.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:54 EST 1996
Article: 22434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntphub.cb.att.com!not-for-mail
From: fwk@hogpb.ho.att.com (-F.KERFOOT)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sobel Machine -----Need Address
Date: 25 Jan 1996 20:26:59 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 13
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <4e8p2j$jm@nntpa.cb.att.com>
References: <4drsc5$25em@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <4e76qh$jnd@lal.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hogpb.ho.att.com

>   MWNR19A@prodigy.com (Jed Dempsey) writes:
>  Anyone help with address for Sobel??
>                Thanks   Jed

Sobel Machinery
93 Garry Rd.
Closter, NJ 07624

(warehouse is at 82 Herbert Ave-)

201-768-9645
(FAX) 201-768-2842



From denatale@nando.net Mon Jan 29 10:42:55 EST 1996
Article: 22435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!castle.nando.net!grail801.nando.net!user
From: denatale@nando.net (Rick DeNatale)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP ! !   Sheet metal math problem - How to calculate a cone ???
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 22:16:14 -0500
Organization: News & Observer Public Access
Lines: 86
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In article <4dv3vf$l0q@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, hey012345@aol.com
(HEY012345) wrote:

>I am trying to roll a piece of 16 gage sheet-metal into a cone shape.  The
>top diameter of the cone is 18.75 inches.  The bottom diameter of the cone
>is 14.625 inches.  The angle of the side is 48 degrees.  I need to cut an
>outer and inner circle in the piece of 16 gage for my blank. What diameter
>should the two circles be cut to, in order to end up with the proper
>dimensions stated above.  Also, I need to cut a section out of the blank
>before I start rolling to insure the ends will butt up correctly and give
>me the correct diameters.  What size should this section be and at what
>angle should it be cut??   This is not a test.  It is an actual problem we
>can't solve in the machine shop where I work.  Can't find a formula that
>applies.

Well, this got me scratching my head, and here is what I figured out.

First it helps to think of the full cone. To avoid confusing myself I
switched your nomenclature for top and bottom diameter:

                                   B
                                 /|\  \      \
                               /  |  \  \      \
                             /    |    \  Rt    \
                           /      |      \  \      \
                         /        |        \  \      \
                        ----Dt----          Rb
                      /           |           \          \
                    /             |             \          \
                   /              |               \          \
                  A------Db------C

So Dt is the diameter of the top of the truncated cone (14.625 in the
example problem), and Db is the diameter at the base (in the example
18.75). I'm not sure which angle was meant but I'm going to use the angle
ABC and call it alpha. If you wanted to use angle CAB instead just use the
following formulae and substitute 90-alpha for alpha.

The pattern for the sheet metal will be a circular segment of radius Rb,
with an included angle of theta, with a smaller segment of radius Rt
removed. I won't try to render this in ASCII graphics.

So we must solve for Rt, Rb and theta. The definition of the Sin gives us:

    sin alpha = (Dt/2)/Rt
    Rt = Dt / 2 sin alpha
and similarly
    Rb = Db / 2 sin alpha

Now consider that if the pattern were a full circle of radius Rb then the
circumference would be:

   2 pi Rb

we are looking for the segment of this circle which is equal to:

    pi Db

If we express theta in degrees then:

   pi Db = (2 pi Rb) * theta / 360

which gives:
       theta = 360 * (pi Db) / (2 pi Rb)
                = 180 Db/Rb
                 =  180 Db / (Db / 2 sin alpha)
                = 360 sin alpha

Plugging the numbers in gives us:

   Rt = 14.625 / (2 sin 48) = 9.84"
   Rb = 18.75 / (2 sin 48) =  12.61"
   Theta = 360 sin alpha = 267 degrees

To check: the diameter at the base of the finished cone should be:

    pi Db = 58.9 inches
    2 * pi * Rb * Theta / 360 = 58.76 inches

The error is due to doing the intermediate calculations to two places each.

   2 pi

-- 
Rick DeNatale
Still looking for a cool signature ;-)


From jerilyn@primenet.com Mon Jan 29 10:42:56 EST 1996
Article: 22436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.fibr.net!nntp.news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip177.boi.primenet.com!jerilyn
From: jerilyn@primenet.com (Jerilyn McLaren)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RE: alt. machines.cnc
Date: 25 Jan 1996 14:10:02 -0700
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In article <4e75vg$jnd@lal.interserv.net> morton@interserv.com writes:
>From: morton@interserv.com
>Subject: alt.cnc.machines
>Date: 25 Jan 1996 05:54:56 GMT

>I can't find it, Jerry.  If it's up, will you confirm to me by e-mail? 
>morton@interserv.com

Actually, it is alt.machines.cnc and it really is up, I check it every day and 
Mine is the only post on it so far...
Regards,
Jerilyn   


From janders@oro.net Mon Jan 29 10:42:57 EST 1996
Article: 22437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Date: 27 Jan 1996 05:12:46 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4ecc8e$95q@hg.oro.net>
References: <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>
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X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Don't have an address handy, but Brownells is, I think, in the FAQ.
They are a gunsmith supply outfit.

Jon
 



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:58 EST 1996
Article: 22438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Message-ID: <1996Jan26.145306.20104@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Jan 96 14:53:06 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>, adp@cs.ucsb.edu (Alan D. Pence) writes:

|>There was a post a few months back where someone
|>recomended:
|>           Brownell's Oxpho Blue - a cold blueing compound
|>
|>I've made the rounds of all my favorite industrial supply
|>houses, and could not find it. The closest thing I could
|>find is a black oxide "kit" at $55 to $85.  And that is
|>a bit rich for my taste (I love the finish though!)
|>
|>Does anyone know where I might order some?

It's probably called Brownell's because it is available from
Brownell's:

   -  Brownells
      Route 2 Box 1
      200 South Front Street
      Montezuma, Iowa, 50171
      (515) 623-5401, (515) 623-3896 (FAX)

      Brownells is a fine firm that specializes in gunsmithing, though
      a lot of their merchandise is great for general-purpose metalworking,
      such as steel, brass, and nickel silver.
      Catalog is $4.00, refundable with first order of $40 or more

Jim


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:42:59 EST 1996
Article: 22439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HSM/PiM index on-line
Message-ID: <1996Jan26.164322.20106@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Jan 96 16:43:22 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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Back around October, Joe Landau finished compiling a very nice index
of HSM and PiM magazines.  I've finally gotten around to putting this
in the web pages here on Plains, complete with a search capability.
Try http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal and click on the index.

Do let me know of any problems, or suggestions.  It isn't as quick as
I would like, but it is reasonable.

The index is current up through about October or so of last year.
Now if one could easily find the back issues themselves!!

Jim


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:00 EST 1996
Article: 22440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!ub!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.tc.cornell.edu!newsserver.sdsc.edu!news.cerf.net!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Message-ID: <1996Jan27.045553.16211@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Keywords: sphere, lathe., tooling
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <alberic.822551229@access4>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 04:55:53 GMT
Lines: 40

In article <alberic.822551229@access4>,
Brian Meek <alberic@access4.digex.net> wrote:
>Greetings all:
>I have a question, actually, I have many, but I'll keep it down to one 
>tonight.  I've been needing to turn some sphere headed punches for 
>forming sheet metal.  I have a pair of lathes, and should be able to do 
>this with one of them, but I can't think up the proper jig.
>(Lathe #1 is an Ames 6" collett lathe, (grandad to the Hardinge)
>and #2 is a SB 9" heavy.  (Has the same bed/apron as the 10")
>There's no real urgency to this, but it'd be nice eventually.

Metal Lathe Accessories sells a set of castings for the SB 9" that
make into a ball turning tool and a boring bar toolpost.  I've made
the set for my Atlas 12", and found the castings nicely done, with
good drawings and instructions.  Fun to whack out some cast iron, and
this is the third or fourth MLA castings I've used, always with good
luck.

What you want is the MLA-13, price about $50 with the neat-o cast iron
handle.  Shipping can be difficult with big castings.


 Metal Lathe Accessories 
 Box 88
 Pine Grove Mills, PA  16868

 814-234-3543

 Talk to Andy Lofquist

There are more accurate ball turning attachments - this is not
terribly accurate (in the sense that if you want a 1.000" +- .001"
this is not the tool you want.  If you're more in the range of +-
.005" this can work but it's more for +-.010, at least in my casual
use.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From jwn2697@kgv1.bems.boeing.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:01 EST 1996
Article: 22441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!bcstec!kgv1
From: jwn2697@kgv1.bems.boeing.com (Joe)
Subject: Re: Questions on cutting sheet steel
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Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 11:27:00 GMT
Lines: 7

Similar to  pnuematic shears is the pnuematic nibbler. It will produce 
smoth curves. Good luck.
---------------------------------------------------
Of course these words are mine alone, I wrote them.
Joe 
Everett, Wa.
---------------------------------------------------


From   Mon Jan 29 10:43:02 EST 1996
Article: 22442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!ddi2.digital.net!usenet
From: foulkj < >
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Question
Date: 27 Jan 1996 03:40:43 GMT
Organization: FLORIDA ONLINE, Florida's Premier Internet Provider
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Have you tried adhesives?  Two that might work are J B weld, it's an 
epoxy or "Goop" it comes in a tube, both less then $10.  You didn't 
mention the applaction and stresses involved.




From frisbie@flying-disk.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:03 EST 1996
Article: 22443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Message-ID: <1996Jan26.134953.765@flying-disk.com>
Date: 26 Jan 96 13:49:53 PST
References: <122326Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 33

In article <122326Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>, 
an393107@anon.penet.fi writes:

<lots of totally unjustified attacks on Dale deleted>

I find it odd that the only posts justifying the anti-social
behavior of Mr./Ms. Lbliao are from two people who have never
posted anything else to rec.crafts.metalworking, nor appear
to have even read the very helpful technical postings in this
group.   Also, the most recent one is the first anonymous posting
ever made (two times, identically) to this group, making it
entirely possible that it is the same person.

Given that, I think it is safe to simply ignore them until they
demonstrate an honest interest in the actual craft of metalworking,
and in a pleasant manner.   If we all refuse to reply to 
impolite postings, we can keep this group as one of the
shining examples of what Usenet *can* be.

I am always happy and willing to help anyone (including these
people) who actually *participates* in this group in a polite,
socially acceptable manner.   But I am far too busy to help those
with a "gimme, gimme, gimme" attitude, or who make attacks like
we have just seen.   Someday they will learn that they can get
far more by being nice to others than by being obnoxious.

I wonder if Mr./Ms. Lbliao ever bothered to read my posting
about machine tool rebuilding classes?   That would certainly
have given him/her all the training in hand scraping that
anyone could ever hope for.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.


From coolfool@flinet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:04 EST 1996
Article: 22444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.flinet.com!wpb69.flinet.com!coolfool
From: coolfool@flinet.com (John Rodgers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal artists needed!
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 22:40:11
Organization: Wizard Productions
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <coolfool.15.0016AC19@flinet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpb69.flinet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Wrought iron artists needed in the Palm Beach, Fl for restoration and 
manufactureing.
Call Steve Allred at Tinson Antiques.
407-833-0700
antiques@flinet.com
PAX,
TCF
Too Cool Fool 01-26-96 John Rodgers
Feudalism: It's your Count that votes.
http://www.flinet.com/~coolfool/wiz/


From sybok@athena.mit.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:05 EST 1996
Article: 22445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steel Tubing (Metric)
Date: 27 Jan 1996 03:10:17 GMT
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
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NNTP-Posting-Host: al-burro.mit.edu

I'm trying to find steel tubing in metric sizes.

I.D. 8mm, O.D. 9mm (so a wall thickness of .5mm).

None of the places I've tried have anything like this.  Anyone know
who might sell tubing like this?
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "If you're on a confiscation team, before you kick in the next gun owner's
        door, you've got to ask yourself. . . . Do you feel lucky!?"
---------------------- NRA  Libertarian Party  FIJA ------------------------


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:06 EST 1996
Article: 22446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:42:06 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 23
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In article <4e760i$sj2@reader2.ix.netcom.com> congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:
>From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
>Subject: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
>Date: 25 Jan 1996 05:55:30 GMT

>I have a chance to purchase a Clausing knee-type vertical milling
>machine, which at one point says # 8520, which I take to mean the model

....deleted....

I have one of these, and thinks it a fine machine. As with all used tools, it 
depends on the condition of course, but the basic machine was originally a 
well constructed mill.

Mine has had a  Bridgeport M head added to it. Ive since seen a few others 
also converted Bport M heads. A freind of mine, likely to also post here, also 
has this machine, but with the original Clausing head.

I suspect its a lot better than any imported mill/drill.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:06 EST 1996
Article: 22447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: alt.cnc.machines
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:46:13 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 26
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In article <4e75vg$jnd@lal.interserv.net> morton@interserv.com writes:
>From: morton@interserv.com
>Subject: alt.cnc.machines
>Date: 25 Jan 1996 05:54:56 GMT

>I can't find it, Jerry.  If it's up, will you confirm to me by e-mail?  morton@interserv.com

A short lesson in news groups.

Every system manager gets to decide which group he/she will provide on their 
machine. If I can get a group from my news provider, it has no effect on you 
getting the group from your provider.

In general, most commercial Internet providers subscribe to all groups, but 
how soon they pick them up, how long they keep them around, is totally a local 
decision.

If you dont get a group after a reasonable wait- maybe a week or so- then 
contact the support group at your ISP and ask if they are getting it.

Ive done a few News Server installs in my real life.



Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From shepard@leger.hlo.dec.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:07 EST 1996
Article: 22448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shepard@leger.hlo.dec.com (Dave Shepard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: welders
Date: 26 Jan 1996 16:29:18 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
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Couple of heavy duty welders for sale:

Lincoln R3S400, uses 3-phase power : $1100
Airco wirefeed for above : $450

ESOP welder (made in Sweden, sold in US by National Cylinder)
    uses 3-phase power, 300 amp, push-pull gun : $1200

All items are located in Pittsburgh, PA.  The shipping weight
of the Lincoln is probably around 650 lbs.  The ESOP is 
around 350 lbs.  Prices do not include shipping and are firm.
Hey, these are darn good deals at the asking prices.

Send mail to shepard@cadsys.enet.dec.com
Include your phone number if you want to discuss specifics and
would prefer to do it over the phone.

Cheers,
--Dave

>The contents of this note do not necessarily reflect the opinions
>or interests of Digital Equipment Corporation.


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:08 EST 1996
Article: 22449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 25 Jan 1996 23:34:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4e8j35$2i3u@news.doit.wisc.edu> dholly@psl.wisc.edu writes: 
>
> <Keltie's babbling snipped>
>
>I've seen them listed (and pictured) elsewhere recently---MSC catalog?
>Rutland Tool catalog?--but if the piece isn't too big and you don't
>care if it deviates from a true sphere by several thousandths, you
>could always turn a step approximation to a sphere, using a calculator
>to tell you what cuts to take, and smooth the ridges afterward. This
>stops being much fun after an hour or two, though, I've found.
>
>                      ...when I sit down to write
>Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however
deplorable
>                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to
be.
>                                           --Joseph Conrad

Mr. Holly's suggestion brings to mind yet another method, commonly
used in machining molds and forming dies; contour milling.  The folks
who do this regularly use CNC milling machines, and sophisticated
computer software to generate the appropriate tool paths, to cut any
surface they need but you can cut a spherical surface with a manual
vertical mill and a rotary table.  Note that you have want that surface
pretty badly,  this technique is even more tedious than that Mr. Holly
suggests.

Using a ball end mill, cut successive circles of decreasing diameter,
at appropriate heights.  Leaving Y at the centerline of the rotary
table, incrementally move X toward the center of same, taking a cut
around the circumference of the spherical surface at each X increment. 
The equation for Z is:  Z = (R^2 - X^2)^.5; where R = the radius of the
sphere + the radius of the ball end cutter, and X = distance from the
center of the sphere.  The smaller you make the X increments, the
smaller will be the ridges around the sphere (and the more times you
have to crank the rotary table through 360 degrees.  By making the X
increments small enough, the ridges will be virtually impercepible and
you will be eligible for social security when you're finished (If our
pal Newt leaves any in the pot that is).

A company here in Reno, who fabricate structures of composite
materials, made a 40" dia. parabolic layup form of polyurethane foam
using this method.  They used a variable speed electric drill to run
the rotary table and it still took them DAYS to get it done.  
Afterwards, their customer changed the spec. slightly so they had to do
it again.  The customer was a major DoD contractor, they'll get it
right no matter how much it costs (us).

Regards, Dale



From john@siu.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:09 EST 1996
Article: 22450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making Small Crankshafts
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:55:17 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960126105427.711G-100000@reliant>
References: <4dsask$6mn@news.connectnet.com> <4e6egu$m7k@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
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Early crankshafts were forged from extremely soft metal.  The crank
in an OX-5 from Curtiss is nortorious for bending.  You just bend it
back and keep flying.
John


On 24 Jan 1996, Bruce Freeman wrote:

> xsf@connecntnet.com (Craig Earls) wrote:
> >
> 
> > Now, I have started building some small engines
> > (maximum outer dimension around 3 inches, Ny
> > Sherline likes that size... What is the best way
> > to make a small crankshaft. 
> 
> Well believe it or not, I've come across information in manuals on
> blacksmithing which describe the forging of crankshafts by hand.  And
> this was for automobiles.  I suspect a power hammer may be involved,
> but don't recall offhand.  For a small engine, it would be an 
> interesting challenge, but beyond my skill level as a blacksmith.
> 
> 
> 


From rusty@metrolink.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:10 EST 1996
Article: 22451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: rusty@metrolink.net (Nicholas W Panasuk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ornamental ironwork plans and ideas needed
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 19:35:27 GMT
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I am a welder who is always looking for new ideas. I have designed
some scroll benders & pickitt twisters. I am looking for plans to make
a ring roller or anything else to help me in my hobbie

thanks Nick



From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:11 EST 1996
Article: 22452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Of Wood on Metal Lathes
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 11:28:34 -0500
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
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NNTP-Posting-Host: korolukm.rmc.ca

In article <4e3dtp$dbq@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

> dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu wrote:
> :       Let us speak of turning wood on metal lathes.  I have heard some
> : folks speak of how it is sinfully abrasive and hard on the lathe and others
> : speak of how it soaks up the oil and is thus a problem.
> 
> I have done some substantial woodwork on a metal lathe.  If you want smooth
> cylinders of wood (I made a 6.5" dia mandrel once out of a piece of tree
> trunk), then a screw-cutting lathe is the thing.  It IS a MESS!  The amount
> of wood removed is much greater than metal removed.  Keep trash bags handy,
> and fill them by the handful after every pass or two. 

Why not rig a shop vac to the carriage to remove the chips as created.
Noisy, but ear defenders are a minor inconvenience compared to the mess.

Orest


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:11 EST 1996
Article: 22453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foundry
Message-ID: <1996Jan25.103748.20051@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Jan 96 10:37:47 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4e5vj5$552@ringer.cs.utsa.edu>, rlucchel@lonestar.jpl.utsa.edu (Ruth A. Lucchelli) writes:
|>newbie..Foundry info needed: Where to order supplies, booklets, & other 
|>info.  Please.  RA

Please check out the FAQ, available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu
in the metal directory, or http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal.

For example:

   -  Centaur Forge Ltd.
      P.O. Box 340
      117 N. Spring Street
      Burlington, WI  53105-0340
      (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX)

      Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all aspects of
      metalworking are covered.  A good, well-organized collection.
      They also publish a magazine, Anvil.

      Centaur Forge is the source for blacksmithing supplies from tongs to
      furnaces.  Also a source of horse shoeing supplies.
 


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:12 EST 1996
Article: 22454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pot Metal Seam Repair
Message-ID: <1996Jan25.104326.20052@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Jan 96 10:43:25 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <WILLO.96Jan16095712@youcon.Central.Sun.COM>
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In article <koroluk-o-2401961511200001@korolukm.rmc.ca>, koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk) writes:
|>In article <4drht4$pg@news.scott.net>, carlgrin@scott.net wrote:
|>> 
|>>    In my earlier reply I suggested using lye or Tri-Sodium Phosphate
|>> to clean the tank before applying heat.
|>> 
|>
|>DO NOT USE LYE. 
|>
|>The TSP may etch the casting a little but the lye will cause it to
|>liberate hydrogen gas as it eats away the casting. Explosive stuff.


I feel such worries are grossly overstated.  The amount of hydrogen
is quite small, and it dissipates rapidly.  It should be quite safe
if done with moderate ventilation and the absence of an ignition source.

Jim


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:13 EST 1996
Article: 22455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: .dxf files
Message-ID: <1996Jan25.105949.20053@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Jan 96 10:59:49 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <8B96481.026100337E.uuout@corpsoft.com>
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In article <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org>, Jack <jack@noel.pd.org> writes:
|>In a conversation with a fabricator about having some laser cutter work
|>done I was told I could save some money by providing .dxf files of my
|>patterns. Towards that end I was told that cad programs would output in
|>dxf. I asked a friend who has autocad release 12 about this and was
|>told that autocad creates .dwg files.

You might check AutoCAD further.  It probably builds .dwg files by default,
but may be able to produce .dxf as well, on demand, among others.

Jim


From tonyspg@voicenet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:14 EST 1996
Article: 22456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tonyspg@voicenet.com (Tony Jucewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Questions on cutting sheet steel
Date: 27 Jan 1996 07:49:46 -0500
Organization: Voicenet - Internet Access - (215)674-9290
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 Nibbler, 1/16, 1/8, or 1/4" size. Or, a hand power shear, about the size
of a 1/2" drill.
 These may be what your looking for. I have used hand held nibblers that
cut 1/4" plate very well. The hand held power shear is more for the 1/16"
stuff.
Tony
Larry Brown (larry@lmb-tech.com) wrote:
: I've been making mid-size projects with a stick welder for the last
: couple of years. My last project was a wall TV/VCR mount, as an
: example. I find that I spend most of the project time cutting the
: material. I've got a 14" chop saw for stock material, but only a sabre
: saw for sheet.

: I'm looking for advice on a good way to quickly and accurately cut
: sheet steel. I didn't say best way, because that is probably a large
: shear and I've got neither space nor funds for that piece of
: equipment.

: I'm concerned that a large sawzall would be inaccurate. I'd like to
: keep the cuts withing a 1/16" at worst. 

: I'd like to hear any and all techniques!

: Thanks, Larry
-- 
Tony Jucewicz   tonyspg@voicenet.com         Stone is forever ########
http://www.voicenet.com/~tonyspg             And EVER ################
BBS (610)346-9047    Stonework "HOW-TO"      And YES, EVER ###########


From lughaid@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:15 EST 1996
Article: 22457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@aol.com (Lughaid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ?? Dave Gingery books ??
Date: 27 Jan 1996 07:42:56 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4e45ki$7df@eos.eos.net>, gdgoen19@eos.eos.net (Glen
Glenngoens) writes:

> anyone familiar with the books wirtten by Dave Gingery on building
>basic machine tools??  Are they still availables from Lindsey
publications ??
>Do these books present enough details for a relative beginner ??
>Are the designs practical for light work/learning the ropes ??
>I'm mainly interested in the books on lathes and accessories.
>
>Thanks
>
>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net
>
>

Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes. In that order. That being said, give Lindsay a call.
Or try your local Library to check 'em out first. You'll find you want
your own copies, though.
Michael Horgan


From lughaid@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:15 EST 1996
Article: 22458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@aol.com (Lughaid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 07:43:19 -0500
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In article <alberic.822551229@access4>, alberic@access4.digex.net (Brian
Meek) writes:

>I have a question, actually, I have many, but I'll keep it down to one 
>tonight.  I've been needing to turn some sphere headed punches for 
>forming sheet metal.  I have a pair of lathes, and should be able to do 
>this with one of them, but I can't think up the proper jig.
>(Lathe #1 is an Ames 6" collett lathe, (grandad to the Hardinge)
>and #2 is a SB 9" heavy.  (Has the same bed/apron as the 10")
>There's no real urgency to this, but it'd be nice eventually.
>I seem to remember that there's some sort of attachment that can ride on 
>the compound rest of an engine lathe, but I can't remember what it looks 
>like, or where to get one.  I have a 1920's vintage book on lathe jigs 
>that shows one way to do it, but it requires extensive hardware 
>modification to the lathe apron.  (Extra drive gears & shafting.)
>I'd really rather not start drilling big holes in my lathe if I can avoid
it.
>(not to mention adding extra gears and whatnot.)
>
>

Guy Lautard, author of "The Machinist's Bedside Reader," et al, has a
small book out called "Tables and Instructions for Ball and Radius
Generation."  It shows  how to do what he calls the incremental cut
method. 

John Dean, in an article entitled "Fear Neither Sphere Nor Hemisphere,"
>from  the early Home Shop Machinist Magazine, reprinted in "Projects Two",
shows how to make an offset plate, to mount on the slide, allowing the
compound center to rotate around a radius. The center of rotation, the
pivot point of the plate, is under the center of the ball you are to turn,
with the carriage, then it is locked. The compound, and cutter, set at
center height, are mounted on the plate, and are swung around the ball.
Adjustments of the cutter are done with the compound.

Hope this helps.
Michael Horgan, Lughaid@aol.com, ah491@lafn.org


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:16 EST 1996
Article: 22459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.ccs.queensu.ca!news.rmc.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fabricating Crankshafts: questions!
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 19:58:44 -0500
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-2501961958450001@137.94.13.15>
References: <4e0m93$b36@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: koroluk.anx.rmc.ca

In article <4e0m93$b36@acme.sb.west.net>, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:

>         Hello, all! I would like to make a "fabricated" crankshaft for a 
> 3-cylinder engine. It will be built up of various sections of bar, etc. 
> and it will need to have 120deg. throws. What I'd like  to do is key the 
> various parts together, but I'm clueless as to how one gets the accuracy 
> needed to broach keyways to, say. plus or minus a tenth of a degree. Can 
> someone explain a trick or two?
> -- 
>         "Steamboat Ed" Haas     :      

You might try making the whole thing without keys first and then aligning
the assembly (possibly in parts) then keying the crankpins by drilling
holes at the point where the pin and disc (throw) intersect. 

Also, as I mentioned in a recent post, Loctite works really well as long
as things don't get too hot ie. over about 300 deg F.

A number of years ago I helped my brother rebuild a couple of snowmobile
engines that used built up crankshafts. Granted they were twins but the
principles are the same. The crankpins were made with a taper (self
holding) and needed to be pressed apart and together with about 5 tons of
force, as I recall. When being reassembled I remember knocking the various
pieces into alignment using a lead hammer.

Orest


From TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:17 EST 1996
Article: 22460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!watserv3.uwaterloo.ca!novice.uwaterloo.ca!watercow.watstar.uwaterloo.ca!TJNYE
From: TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca (Tim Nye)
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Sender: news@novice.uwaterloo.ca (system PRIVILEGED account)
Message-ID: <TJNYE.1418.000D0489@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 18:01:03 GMT
Lines: 175
References: <122303Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>
Nntp-Posting-Host: watercow.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Organization: University of Waterloo

This looks like a troll, but what the heck.  Maybe throwing some data into 
the argument might enlighten things somewhat.

In article <122303Z26011996@anon.penet.fi> an393107@anon.penet.fi writes:

>Who appointed you to be the policeman or priest of this newsgroup?

The same person who appointed you, Mr. Anon.penet.fi?

>>One of the objectives of newsgroups such as this is the interchange of
>>information and opinion of interest to all who participate.  Much of

>I contacted the person by email, and they did not receive any responses.
>You then posted about the number of times the person posted the message.
>If what you say above is your intention, then you should be thankful for
>the multiple postings, because that is getting answers.

OK, let's look at the history of that _one_ question.

First, the initial post:

:From lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu
:Date 16 Jan 1996 17:58:44 GMT
:Message-ID <4dgp0k$suf@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
:
:I am looking for books, papers or videos on scraping and flaking. Please 
:contact via email.
:Thanks a lot!
:
:lbliao

Then an answer:

:From Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
:Date 18 Jan 1996 14:08:49 GMT
:Message-ID <4dlk9h$gja@news1.svc>
:
:Please post also!
:
:The book, Machine Tool Reconditioning, talks
:about this subject but not in enough detail.
:
:Best,
:
:Mike Rehmus

What do you know.  There _was_ an answer.  And another:

:From lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
:Date 19 Jan 1996 05:50:35 GMT
:Message-ID <4dnbfb$1tq@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
:
:In article <TJNYE.1389.000EDE97@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>,Tim Nye <TJNYE@
:MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>; wrote:
:>In article <1996Jan16.134325.744@flying-disk.com> frisbie@flying-disk.com (
:Alan Frisbie) writes:
:>>lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu (lbliao) writes:
:>
:>>>I am looking for books, papers or videos on scraping and flaking. Please 
:
:If what you mean is ways scraping, then there is a book by Connely on
:Machine Tool Rebuilding. I am trying to find it myself.
:
:lone

Notice that 'lone' is posting from the same system that 'lbliao' posts 
from.  This would seem to prove there are no technical reasons why 'lbliao' 
would not be capable of reading and posting follow-ups in this group. 

Also note that the book "Machine Tool Reconditioning" contains about 250 
pages describing just hand scraping, layout and inspection.  It's hard to 
imagine that this isn't enough information.  However, guess what pops up 
then:

:From lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu
:Date 19 Jan 1996 05:38:26 GMT
:Message-ID <4dnaoi$195@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
:
:I am looking for books, papers or videos on scraping and flaking. Please 
:contact via email.
:Thanks a lot!
:
:lbliao

Sound familiar?

This is the pattern from 'lbliao' that people in this group have been 
objecting to.  Frequent posting of the same questions, then totally ignoring 
the answers people provide.

A special case of this was the question about "flats" posted in December by 
'lbliao'.  Go back and look the responses from the dozen or so people 
_trying_ to help.  However, nobody knew what 'lbliao' meant by "flats", and 
the responses were all in vain since 'lbliao' refused to explain what he/she 
was asking about.

Ironically, 'lbliao' had posted this _identical_ "flats" question a few 
months before, and the several people who tried to help then also couldn't 
because there was no clarification forthcoming from the questioner.  So, 
probably 20 separate people from this group tried to help 'lbliao' but were 
ignored.

Which brings us to this:

>who are you to decide the ill-posedness? I think that you should be able
>to understand a simple english phrase, "looking for books on 
>scraping and flaking" and the subsequent message, if you had primary
>school education in the US. Or, is the standard of education too low?

The 'ill-posed' question was the one about "flats".  Tell you what, Mr. 
Anonymous, I still don't know what 'lbliao' meant by "flats".  Maybe you 
could explain to us.  Did he/she mean surface plates?  Optical flats?  Gauge 
blocks?  Parallels?  Or something else?  Let's see your command of the 
english language in action.

>I agree, but can you understand that a poster can only reply when he/she
>gets a reply. Further, many people do not have internet posting access, as
>I do not. You can always send email to any original poster to see if they
>got any replies.

Obviously the system at alumnae.caltech.edu does allow reading replies and 
posting follow-ups.  (See above.)

>again you are making a grave assumption. I do not know about your IQ, but
>many people do not have posting facility. Further, many people like to 
>help privately. I do reply to many people privately. 

But 'lbliao' has received _many_ answers to questions posted publicly, and 
all evidence indicates they have _all_ been ignored.

>Most of the people
>posting are what I would call "agents", (a too strong term) of the businesses
>that profit from these newsgroups. 

The conspiracy theory again?

>These are junk sellers, selling eg many old
>books for exorbitent prices for the quality of the material; 

If you mean Lindsay, I suspect a _lot_ of people in this group will go on
(public) record as being 100% in disagreement with you.

>auctioneers
>who benefit from gathering as many people as possible. If any one of them
>denies/lies they have no business interest, then there is no way to prove it.
>But I do not know how these people are supporting themselves when they have
>so much time for posting. They are trying to create a false enthusiasm about
>a field, that is a very old art. Now, I would not say this about a newsgroup
>like the one on TeX, which has genuinely useful information posted, and
>is virtually free for anyone who has ftp access. Most people there are
>those who are writing their thesis, and share information in the way of
>this occupation.

Well, maybe 'lbliao' could spend several months posting multiple copies of 
the same questions to the TeX newsgroup, and ignore all the answers 
provided.  Do you suppose all the _contributors_ to that group would still 
be so helpful to this person after a few rounds of that?

(Data point:  According to the DejaNews archive, 'lbliao' has posted 103 
articles between 9/30/95 and 1/16/96 -- 100% questions (some many times) and 
0% responses to anyone else's questions.)

And let's not forget the abusive phone calls Alan Frisbie got from an 
unidentified caller who demanded answers to questions on scraping and 
flaking.  

Who knows?  Maybe 'lbliao' isn't as rude and arrogant as he/she appears from 
his/her behaviour in this group.  In that case I'm sure people would be more 
than happy to help him/her, but all we get is demands for answers, followed 
by silence.  Hardly a great PR strategy.

Regards,

Tim



From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:18 EST 1996
Article: 22461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Date: 26 Jan 1996 18:58:18 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4eb88a$q21@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com> <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: hd56-170.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2.5

In <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
>Eric Saville (esaville@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>: I am trying to get a hold of a schematic for a circuit to run a 3 phase
>: motor on 2 phase converter. I recently saw a posting that said they
>: were available at web site http://plains.uwyo.edu /"metal, when I try
>: access it I recieve an error- forbiden. Can any one provide me with the
>: schematic, or tell me another way to get them. Thank you.
>

Don't be shy about trying a converter.  However if you make one, make a rotary
converter.  Lindsay Publishing has a book on how to do it.  The same info is probably on
the net.

I have a 10HP 3 phase air compressor, two stage, that I run in my garage off
the rotary phase converter I assembled.  It works fine.  I did have to back off the
cutout pressure on the compressor to avoid overcurrents in the compressor motor.
That is due to the fact that the converter is not entirely efficient in developing
3 phase power.  However, the low cost of used industrial compressors more than
makes up fo some slight inefficiencies of a converter.  If I ran the compressor
10 hrs a day.  I might consider a commercial single to 3 phase converter.

However, this type of homebrew converter can easily start the 10HP compressor.

Also, 10HP single phase motors are very hard to come by.

Good Luck,

Dave



  


From smolnar@fast.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:20 EST 1996
Article: 22462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.fast.net!smolnar
From: smolnar@fast.net (Susie Molnar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: annodizing niobium
Date: 27 Jan 1996 14:31:42 GMT
Organization: FASTNET(tm) PA/NJ/DE Internet 
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Message-ID: <4edd0e$j03@nn.fast.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: smolnar.fast.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

I would like to set up an annodizing unit and need some specs.

I know for annodizing 18g. wire I need 20-120 volts, dc. I dont know the amps. 
There are mini annodizers available-but cost $300. My husband could put one 
together if he had the info.

Also, I need the ratio of water:baking soda for a small bath.

thanks
Susie


From bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:21 EST 1996
Article: 22463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!bb05282
From: bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should I buy Harbor Freight Drill/Lathe/Mill?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 15:16:45 GMT
Organization: Binghamton University, Binghamton, NY
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <4edfkt$fqg@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu>
References: <flynnj-1901961612360001@flynn1.jmc.tju.edu> <DLK4Cw.Fnp@iquest.net> <4eb5lg$q21@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.226.1.20
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

73744 wrote:
: In <DLK4Cw.Fnp@iquest.net>, JTWaidner@iquest.net (John Waidner) writes:
: >flynnj@jeflin.tju.edu (John T. Flynn) sez:
: >
: >>I am thinking of buying one of Harbor Freight's combination drill press/
: >>milling machine/ metal lathe units ($1099.00 one).  I believe that these
: >>units are made in China.  Does anyone have experience with these units and
: >>are they worth the money?  How do they compare to a similar "Smithy"
: >>unit?  I plan to use the unit for light metal work/ gunsmithing sort of
: >>things.  No heavy duty use.
: >
: >Does anyone have any Harbor Freight tools?  What do you think of them?
: >
: >
: >---
: >John Waidner
: >JTWaidner@IQuest.net
: >Carmel, IN
: >

: John,

: I have had problems with Harbor Freight recently.  I ordered a bender, 
: received it months later and when I opened it up parts were missing.  I have
: tried to contact Harbor Freight about the problems but they will not acknowledge
: my letters.  There phones are constantly jammed.

: I would think about buying from them again.

: Regards,

: Dave Cole



: I bought a mill/drill from H.Freight in '86. It is Taiwanese & I have 
: been satisfied with it. All that has gone wrong with it is that when I 
: switch it on the motor makes a humming sound instead of turning, until 
: I turn the spindle manually to get the motor turning. (Anyone got any 
: ideas as to what is wrong?) So, from looking at the posts on this 
: subject it seems to me that it seems to be the luck of the draw when 
: acquiring merchandise from Harbor.F. If you look at the average, more 
: disatisfied people have posted that satisfied ones. To help you make 
: your decision: if you are willing to risk getting a machine that may 
: not work the way you want it to, buy from H. Freight. If not, you 
: should look for a different source. Good luck.


From cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:43:22 EST 1996
Article: 22464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc.gsl.net!news-lond.gsl.net!globalnet!usenet
From: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing Larry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Turning Ivory on a Lathe
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 00:34:38 GMT
Organization: A Global Internet client. 
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4edk83$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>
Reply-To: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82


Any tips re cutting tools for turning ivory ? speeds? tips?

(no flames, i am talking of scrap ivory from junk stalls )



From cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:43:23 EST 1996
Article: 22465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc.gsl.net!news-lond.gsl.net!globalnet!usenet
From: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing Larry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Making a corkscrew coil?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 00:34:40 GMT
Organization: A Global Internet client. 
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Reply-To: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82


I need some info on how to design and make a corkscrew helix.
I am not talking about a simple coil of 1.5mm wire, but a proper
corkscrew shape, with a solid core and shaped spiral.
Is there some method of working out the cross section and how do
i go about machining such a thing?



From gdgoen19@eos.eos.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:24 EST 1996
Article: 22466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!en.com!mstar!ragnarok.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!eos.eos.net!eos.eos.net!usenet
From: gdgoen19@eos.eos.net (Glen Glenngoens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ?? Dave Gingery books ??
Date: 23 Jan 1996 21:30:42 -0500
Organization: Exodus
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NNTP-Posting-Host: eos.eos.net
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Is anyone familiar with the books wirtten by Dave Gingery on building
basic machine tools??  Are they still availables from Lindsey publications ??
Do these books present enough details for a relative beginner ??
Are the designs practical for light work/learning the ropes ??
I'm mainly interested in the books on lathes and accessories.

Thanks

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net

(sorry, head cold, can't type tonight)




From midgard@nycmetro.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:25 EST 1996
Article: 22467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!kirk.microsys.net!not-for-mail
From: midgard@nycmetro.com (SARUMAN)
Subject: Re: Decent Bench Lathe Wanted
Message-ID: <1292.6599T1080T1785@nycmetro.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 17:38:42 GMT
References: <723.6598T1008T1531@nycmetro.com> <DLrzMy.895@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
X-Newsreader: THOR 2.22 (Amiga;TCP/IP) *UNREGISTERED*
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>In article <723.6598T1008T1531@nycmetro.com>,
>SARUMAN <midgard@nycmetro.com> wrote:
>>Hi can anyone recommend a Decent Bench Lathe Capable of accepting 1" stock
>>at least 8" long and with good accuracy. I saw one in the Micro Mark Catalog
>>for a decent price but it seemed that the thru hole is only about .420 or so
>>and I am thinking this will limit him. Am I misreading this Ad?

>Probably not.  The South Bend 9 x 20" lathe I crave has a spindle hole
>that's only 3/4" in diameter.  But 1" stock could be turned on centers
>or with a chuck and one center in the tailstock.

>>                Anyone here own and use one of these Lathe's from Micro
>>                Mark?
>>What are your thoughts on it?
>>Thanx.....BTW interested folks the Lathe was $509 with zeroing incremental
>>wheels.

>I hadn't heard of Micro Mark.  I'd appreciate the comments of others on
>these machines.  Would you post the telephone number of Micro Mark?

>                                        Mark Kinsler


           I forgot to tell ya in Email but a Hooby Shop I deal with sells
Micro Mark products and seels them at approx 20% LESS than the prices in Micro
Mark's catalog. Big Little Railroad shop is it's name tho I again don't have
the # handy unfortunately. This place is also in New Jersey.




From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:25 EST 1996
Article: 22468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dacom.co.kr!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electric die grinder recommendations?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 16:42:40 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <310a4f02.57951806@news.islandnet.com>
References: <4ebgg1$rqd@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nettle.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99c/16.141

Doug:
I have no experience on electric die grinders since I use air units
but as far as my general experience goes, I have yet to see any
short-commings on my inexpensive die grinder. Yes, the commercial
units costing three times as much will have better bearings (actually
I don't know if my grinder has bearings or if they are bushings) and
the vanes or what not is supposed to be steel for longer life vs
aluminum, but I find that if you look at the tool as a throw-away you
probably get much the same life out of three cheap die grinders than
one expensive unit. Oh yes, you also get two more occasions of ripping
into a new box :)
As far as electric tools are concerned, I use a DeWallt 4 1/2" angle
grinder I got on sale at Canadian Tire for about $80 Canadian - cheap
cheap .... but it works well (and I have used it pretty extensively).
Again, I don't expect it to last forever but as long as it does the
job well for a reasonable time (and most brand-name stuff will) then
it's ok with me.
Please note that this general principle only holds for comodity
merchandise where mass production makes prices so inexpensive that the
loss in quality is acceptable.


> I apologize if this
>   is an unusual line of questioning here. :-)

Say what ?????  What's so unusual ?????




From michael@zoom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:26 EST 1996
Article: 22469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!miwok!news.zeitgeist.net!news.zoom.com!michael-ppp.zoom.com!user
From: michael@zoom.com (Michael Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: .dxf files
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 08:52:54 +0800
Organization: Zoom.Com Information Services, Inc.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <michael-2601960852540001@michael-ppp.zoom.com>
References: <8B96481.026100337E.uuout@corpsoft.com> <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: michael-ppp.zoom.com

In article <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org>, Jack
<jack@noel.pd.org> wrote:

> In a conversation with a fabricator about having some laser cutter work
> done I was told I could save some money by providing .dxf files of my
> patterns. Towards that end I was told that cad programs would output in
> dxf. I asked a friend who has autocad release 12 about this and was
> told that autocad creates .dwg files.
> 
> Anybody know what program I can use to create .dxf files?
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> jack sinclair
> jack@pd.org

Autocad 12 will generate a .dxf file.  Most all cad programs that I am
aware of will generate .dxf files.  If you are looking for a cad program
you might look at Vellum it is available for the Mac or Windows.  Ashlar
(vellums creator) also has a Vellum lite (DrawingBoard ?) available for
the Windows platform, I believe it is around $50.  

Michael
michael@zoom.com


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:27 EST 1996
Article: 22470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making a corkscrew coil?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 18:17:06 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4edq72$q0v@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4edk85$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-ren-nv1-03.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27 10:17:06 AM PST 1996

In <4edk85$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk> cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk
(Laughing Larry) writes: 
>
>
>I need some info on how to design and make a corkscrew helix.
>I am not talking about a simple coil of 1.5mm wire, but a proper
>corkscrew shape, with a solid core and shaped spiral.
>Is there some method of working out the cross section and how do
>i go about machining such a thing?
>

Larry - 

Would coarse screw threads, single-point cut using a taper attachment,
work for this?

Regards, Dale


From dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:28 EST 1996
Article: 22471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!utpapa.ph.utexas.edu!dawson
From: dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Electric die grinder recommendations?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 21:18:57 GMT
Organization: Physics Department, University of Texas at Austin
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Message-ID: <4ebgg1$rqd@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: utpapa.ph.utexas.edu

   I was wondering if anyone had any solid recommendations for 
   electric die grinders.  ( It's been pointed out to me that
   the air-powered units are nice, but getting a compressor big
   enough to power one is impractical for me, both financially and
   otherwise... )  Much to my surprise, in searching thru the
   rcm archives, this question has never really been asked before
   except peripherally!  Idyllic, or what! :-)

   To get more specific, in the roughly $200-250 range, are there
   any units that stand out in terms of value or perceived quality?
   Relative to the others in that price range.  Or are they all
   pretty much a commodity?

   One unit that looks kind of interesting is the Makita GEO, which
   for ~$100 has a nice price - but practically speaking, at what
   point would you start to really notice the failings of this unit
   as compared to the more costly units?

   Intended applications, at least as far as my own purposes are
   concerned, would be cleaning up bronze castings, cutting stuff
   like tool steel and largish steel plate/sheet, and general
   freehand metal shaping.

   Thanks for any help you might offer, and I apologize if this
   is an unusual line of questioning here. :-)

   Doug Dawson
   dawson@physics.utexas.edu



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:28 EST 1996
Article: 22472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Your Opinions Please...
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 18:53:20 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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mrmidea@aol.com (Mr Midea) wrote:

 My question is
>one of purchasing an Enco Lathe (China made). I had purchased this lathe
>about a year ago and all seems to be ok with it. I use it in my home shop
>(GARAGE) to machine graphite and soft plastic parts. Sometimes aluminum. I
>use it about  2-4 hours per month on a part time basis. I guess I am
>wodering after the fact if I would have been better off purchasing
>something from south bend at about $ 5,000 vs the 1,100 from ENCO. Not
>that it matters much now.

I generally recommend that people buy the best equipment that they can
afford.  In your case, your usage is very low, and the materials that
you are working are not very damanding of a lathe.  Now on the other
hand, I do not know what kind of precision you are looking for, but
the Enco lathes are OK for most applications.  On plastic, graphite,
and aluminum, I do not think that you are in danger of damaging the
lathe.  I have had two Enco lathes in the past, and have worked them
hard, before reselling them.  

Now regarding maintenance.  Keep it oiled, and cover it with a cloth
sheet when you are not using it.  Cloth will not encourage
condensation.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From macnasty@mail.bogo.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:43:29 EST 1996
Article: 22473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: macnasty@mail.bogo.co.uk
Subject: ! Melting Gold Machinery wanted
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What is the cheapest way to do this for a spittle Bar (pre-oiled)
Blow torch?
Any for sale
Melting Machine(Electric)?
Any for sale

Ian (London) 0956 560014


From drewid@lanminds.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:30 EST 1996
Article: 22474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!wizard.pn.com!news.zeitgeist.net!lanshark.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Copper Ornamental Stampings
Date: 26 Jan 1996 19:43:58 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4ebatu$hvq@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <4e0a9n$8p7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <xq0yzDA3uLBxEwBV@bobunitt.demon.co.uk> <Pine.SUN.3.91.960123150924.22749C-100000@noel.pd.org>
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Jack <jack@noel.pd.org> wrote:
>
>	H E L P
>
>I have been offered the job of rebuilding a copper awning ...
how costly would it be to make a mold from an existing
>part and have a die made for reproducing that part?....and....... if this
>is the alternative, who might still do copper stamping?
>
>Any help, advice, etc. will be greatly appreciated. 
>
>Replies may be made privately if possible and thanks in advance.
>
>
>jack sinclair
>jack@pd.org

[Having new stamps and dies made would cost big bucks, like 10 grand
 each -minimum. You didn't mention how heavy gauge the copper stampings
 need to be, but if they are fairly light -under 20 gauge - you could 
try a technique I saw used in Nepal: make a bronze casting of the design 
(in reverse) then clamp your (annealed) copper to the face of it. Then
 take a piece of lead, and pound the lead into the back of the copper
 sheet with a heavy hammer  until it pushes the copper into all the
 recesses in the die. If you only need a few of these, this might be the
 way to go.]


Andrew Werby- United Artworks




From gwhite@tiac.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:30 EST 1996
Article: 22475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 18:42:17 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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In article <4e760i$sj2@reader2.ix.netcom.com>,
   congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:
<I have a chance to purchase a Clausing knee-type vertical milling
<machine, which at one point says # 8520, which I take to mean the model
<number.  It stands about five feet high, and the table is 24" the long
<way.  Seems to be a Morse taper #2 but I didn't get a chance to take
<the end mill holder out of it to confirm that.
<snip>

I have an 8520, and I love it.  If it's in good condition, they are very 
precise.  For one thing, you get 0.100" feed per handwheel revolution on 
the table, instead of 0.200" on a Bridgeport.  Some parts are still 
available from Clausing/Atlas, so if something important is missing or 
broken, check with them before you buy to make sure you can fix it.  
Warning, parts are not cheap!  New Hardinge collets are $35-$40 a piece, 
but you can buy cheaper ones for around $20 from several distributors.  
#2 Morse tooling that can use the drawbar is a little scarce.

If the machine is well used, check the bearings.  I'm still in the 
process of replacing worn out bearings in mine. the easiest way to tell 
is to remove the belts, and spin the idler pulley and headstock spindle 
by hand.  It it isn't smooth feeling, a bearing has died somewhere.  I's 
not to hard to replace the ones in the idler pulley, but the headstaock 
ones are a pain to get at, and the quill is very tricky.  There is a pair 
of precision bearings in the bottom of the quill that cost $150 a set.  
Unfortunately, there is a standard motor grade bearing at the top of my 
quill that has died, and you have to take the whole quill apart to get at 
it.  While I'm in there, I'm going to replace all the seals and bearings, 
 but I need to make a bunch of special tools to get it open and press the 
bearings off and then back on.  If I'd known what to look for, I would 
have still bought it, but I bet I could have gotten a much beter price.

Another way to tell just how much wear it's had is to check the downfeed. 
 If it's in really good shape, the quill clamp will provide an even drag 
throughout the quill range.  Typically, they wear more down at the 
bottom, and the quill will get looser and looser as it descends.  Also, 
check for any roughness in the downfeed gear box.  Someone had whacked 
mine, and damaged some of the gears.  I got replacements, but it cost 
about $75.

Doug White


From gwhite@tiac.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:31 EST 1996
Article: 22476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!wizard.pn.com!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clausing (used) vertical mill: how good is it? Value?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 18:44:47 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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In article <4eap07$d32@homer.alpha.net>, jlovallo@mixcom.com wrote:
<The Clausing 8520/8530 vertical mill is an excellent machine, IMHO.  A 
full size bridgeport is nice,
<but they do take up a lot of space in a home shop and are not fun to 
move into a basement 8^).  Don't let
<the Atlas press label put you off, it's just that they bought out 
Clausing.  The quality has not changed at
<all, I own an old one (before the Atlas buyout) and just recently 
purchased a late model one for a friend 
<which I am in the process of converting to CNC.  It is a #2 MT with a 
drawbar.  Collets are still available, 
<but you might want to look into one of the Erickson DA Collet Chucks 
which will fit this machine.   As 
<for prices, I paid about 1200 for my older one, the newer one was 2400.

I've got an an old 8520 I paid about $1000 for, followed by several 
hundred more to fix it up.  I'm interested in the Erickson collet system, 
could you provide the group with a few more details?

Thanks!

Doug White
<


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:32 EST 1996
Article: 22477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 19:03:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning Book
Message-ID: <101260171@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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rmawby@mellie.demon.co.uk (Roger Mawby) / 12:07 pm  Jan 23, 1996 /

>I have quite severe wear on the rear inverted V-way around the middle
>of the bed, in the region where the saddle spends most of its time!. 
>Have you reconditioned any lathe ways yourself ? and/or what do you
>believe would be a practical amount to scrape off in preference to say
>having the slideways ground? . I have made some measurements and
>believe I would need to take the ways down at least 0.020" - Is this a
>practical to scrape this amount ? 
>

I saw an article on lathe reconditioning that was printed in one of the
HSM Metalworking books.  The author was working from the Reconditioning book,
but also explained his own situation.  I believe his ways were worn 0.030",
so he had them surfaced on a planer, then completed the job himself.

The author's conclusion was that scraping was good for about 0.002" or so,
and that anything more should probably be done by machine and finished by hand.

Pete Brooks



From jhre@hre.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:33 EST 1996
Article: 22478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: Jim Harvey <jhre@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Powdercoating Thickness
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 01:06:04 -0800
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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Jens:
Give Keith Rein a call at TROJAN POWDER COAT 516-968-5040. He coats for 
us at the race shop and has been in the business since it began. I 
believe that the nominal thickness should be around .001 to .0015, but 
Keith will give you the straight skinney on the facts of the process.
BTW his prices are VERY good, and he ships daily all over the world so 
you might want to give hima try.

GOod luck

Jim Harvey
jhre@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:33 EST 1996
Article: 22479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 14:10:26 -0500
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
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References: <9601091810.AA40515@128.194.179.45> <30F556FF.19A0@euphonix.com> <4diock$2m3@news.imssys.com> <4e1vdh$osu@newsreader.wustl.edu> <822427616.26740@mellie.demon.co.uk>
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In article <822427616.26740@mellie.demon.co.uk>, rmawby@mellie.demon.co.uk
(Roger Mawby) wrote:

>  Anyway, I am interested in re-building the lathe and intend to
> re-scrape the ways using the methods set out in the book "Machine Tool
> Reconditioning".
> I assume it to be the same book referred to in these articles (mine is
> authored by Edward F.Connelly).
> I have quite severe wear on the rear inverted V-way around the middle
> of the bed, in the region where the saddle spends most of its time!. 
> Have you reconditioned any lathe ways yourself ? and/or what do you
> believe would be a practical amount to scrape off in preference to say
> having the slideways ground? . I have made some measurements and
> believe I would need to take the ways down at least 0.020" - Is this a
> practical to scrape this amount ? 
> 
>                                         Roger

IMHO (OK, not really that humble) 0.020" is a tremendous amount to remove
by scraping, especially as it has to be done over the remainder of the bed
that is not worn. Although I have not scraped any machine tools I have
tried the technique on some odd pieces of cast iron to test the waters. I
have made three granite surface plates by generating them from first
principles and can tell you that I was glad that they were pretty flat to
start with. At first progress comes quickly, but nothing teaches you
patience like lapping 60 lb chunks of granite together, for hours and
hours.

To get a good start I would look at getting the bed planed or milled
first, then fine tune it by scraping.

Orest


From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:34 EST 1996
Article: 22480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making a corkscrew coil?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 19:42:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing Larry) wrote:
>I need some info on how to design and make a corkscrew helix.
>I am not talking about a simple coil of 1.5mm wire, but a proper
>corkscrew shape, with a solid core and shaped spiral.
>Is there some method of working out the cross section and how do
>i go about machining such a thing?

Such an item would be made by milling between centers.  The horozontal
feed is geared to the rotational feed of the centers.  So, as the mill
progresses horozontally, the part rotates to produce the helix.
Depending upon how deeply you cut with the mill, you can leave a
central shaft or just a spiral flute.  

This can be accomplished several ways.  If you are patient, you can do
it manually by making a set of setting tables that will allow you to
coordinate the X axis and rotational movements.  You wil generally get
some steps that must be blended out by hand.  

You could also set up the mill with a pulley and belt setup that will
drive the rotation of the part between centers at the horozontal
movement is advanced.  Depending on the size of the pulleys you
select, you can end up with a long or short spiral helix.  

All of the above methods are outdated with the advent of CNC, but for
a home shop machinist, the methods above will work.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:35 EST 1996
Article: 22481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hollow Mills (surface finish?)
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 02:08:42 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie ) wrote:

>  I've spoken with one manufacturer of
>adjustable hollow mills and, of course, he thinks his product will
>perform miracles in this regard.  I'm more than a little hesitant to
>invest $300+ to verify (or worse, refute) his position in the matter
>however.


Dale, I haven't got a clue BUT why not take the manufacturer up on his
word. If he is so shure, tell him EXACTLY what kind of finish you want
and say to him that if the tool works as he says you will take it but
that he will take it back if it doesn't produce.
It's a win-win situation. The manufacturer will learn more about his
tool and you can try it out with no risk. This works especially well
if you have a good rep with the people that you are negotiating with
but should work otherwise as well. If the guy doesn't go for it, I
think you have the answer to your original question (does it work or
not).

Regards
Jens


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:43:36 EST 1996
Article: 22482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!zetnet.co.uk!demon!sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Flame Eater engine
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 23:02:04 GMT
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   The most successful vacuum engine I've seen performing is
'Quack-a-Clink', Built by David Ayers and described in Model Engineer 
number 3815 pages 752/3  (18-31 December 1987)
   Bore 27mm Stroke 59.7mm  Power 0.65 watt @ 450 RPM
                              (and about 10 watts of audio!)

   To quote David :- "The piston is a very good fit in the cylinder.
The usual test applies here.  The piston must be free enough to slide
through the cylinder under its own weight when dry, but when the
bottom of the cylinder is sealed it should take some minutes to do the
same.  It does need to be of steel or C/I, as it gets very hot, a
bronze one would probably seize in the C/I cylinder".

re Lubrication :- "Most light oils sold for domestic use are mixtures
of oils and light penetrating additives.  When the lighter oils are
evaporated away by the hot cylinder, the oil becomes very heavy and
gummy.  Be prepared to experiment with various types of oil.  The
best I have found are the synthetic oils used in jet aircraft engines,
as these are of low viscosity and evaporate cleanly ------"

re Starting :- "The engine will not start from cold, but if the tank
is filled with near boiling water in the first place starting is easy 
enough.  It seems that if cooling is too good, the gas cools too much
before the valve is shut." 
                              end of quotes.

  The most ingenious part of this engine is the valve, a plate valve,
held against the port by a spring loaded 'rocker' which bears on the
plate approx 1/3 up from the bottom.  The big, soft, flame is below
and a pull rod lifts the bottom of the plate to admit it to the
cylinder 10 degs before TDC.  The valve closes at half stroke and 
vacuum is beginning to pull just before BDC.  As the piston rises it 
destroys the vacuum and, well before TDC, pressure rises, to lift the
top of the valve and release exhaust gases well away from the flame.

  Good luck Jim.
  -- 
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"
  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk


From steamer@west.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:36 EST 1996
Article: 22483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making a corkscrew coil?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 12:08:40 -0800
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--If you mean to wind a coil of material that is fairly thick, 
check out the article I wrote in a recent issue of Model Engineers 
Workshop (don't remember which issue). It talks about constructing a coil 
for a mass-driver, using "wire" measuring 1/8in. by 1/4in. cross-section, 
which was bent so that the 1/8in. sections were laying one atop the other 
in a one-layer coil. The trick is to feed the stuff through a channel 
that's clamped onto the toolpost of your lathe. This makes sure the wire 
doesn't deviate from its course on the way to the winding mandrel. The 
other trick is to turn the mandrel around with a hand-crank, due to the 
slow deposition rate of wire onto the coil.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	...Yet another
	phone: 	(805) 968-7534	:	crackpot...
	FAX:	(805) 562-8928  :	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From powers@cis.ohio-state.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:37 EST 1996
Article: 22484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: powers@cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making a corkscrew coil?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 15:14:27 -0500
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
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>I need some info on how to design and make a corkscrew helix.
>I am not talking about a simple coil of 1.5mm wire, but a proper
>corkscrew shape, with a solid core and shaped spiral.
>Is there some method of working out the cross section and how do
>i go about machining such a thing?


I would forge it!  use a slightly undersize swage to create the
flanges and hot twist it to shape.

(I never understood why folk want to machine things that are much
easier forged.  A friend of mine took a gunsmithing course and
one of their assignments was to file out a flintlock lock. He
looked at the specs and forged it--faster and you get the advantages
of grain alignment--. They downchecked it because it was supposed to be
filed because "No one does forging anymore".....)
Thomas
Columbus, OH




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:38 EST 1996
Article: 22485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!mulberry!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Date: 26 Jan 1996 06:32:34 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4e9si3$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@mulberry.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Randolph Lee (r.lee@windshadow.com) wrote:
: My local ISP Tech brought a vintage 1991 1 gig 5" seagate Hard drive 
: into the shop and we had fun tearing it apart...

Yes, I always grab a hard disk of any size I find being thrown out.  There
are bearings, lots of small aluminum parts, hardware, magnets, a brushless
DC 3600 RPM motor (most of the newest drives have the motor control 
integrated with the microprocessor that runs the whole drive; too bad) and
just a whole lot of interesting parts that can wait in the junk box until
you need a part 'just like that one'.


From darylb@bnr.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:39 EST 1996
Article: 22486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend lathe
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 16:44:02 +0000
Organization: bnr
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-260196164402@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4dh9hn$rbf@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <4drl6u$p4j@dub-news-svc-2.compuserve.com> <darylb-220196171004@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <4e1k1g$8t7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <1996Jan25.192212.24168@sequent.com> <4eaoof$n5u@darwin.nbnet.nb.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4eaoof$n5u@darwin.nbnet.nb.ca>, jhall@nbnet.nb.ca (John W.
Hall) wrote:

> I'm using a new news reader so I apologize if this gets posted incorrectly.
> 
>  I have followed this thread and was waiting for somebody to quote "the 
> source". they didn't so I will:
> 
> Sout Bend in "How To Run a Lathe", page 11, 56th edition says: "In the United 
> States the size of a Screw Cutting Lathe is designated by the swing over bed 
> and the length of bed...". Reference is made to an illustration indicating 
> that the "bed length" is the entire bed casting length. My copy of the SB 
> catalog for 1936 describes lathes this way as well, eg. 9X36, 9X48, etc. Thus 
> the lathe mentioned originally in this thread is a 9X36, even though its 
> actual working capacity is less.
> 
> John

This agrees with my South Bend Data (14.5" x 7ft) but man, that is a stupid
way to spec size (the 7ft part). This should be posed under "never under
estimate marketing hype".


From darylb@bnr.ca Mon Jan 29 10:43:40 EST 1996
Article: 22487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 17:00:31 +0000
Organization: bnr
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-260196170031@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com> <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
> snip... REAL 2 phase has a 90
> degree phase shift between the two phases, and it CAN be converted to REAL
> 3 phase with a simple center-tapped transformer, called a Scott-T.  But
> you probably don't have 2 phase power with the 90 degree phase shift.
> ...snip

I have never heard of this 2 phase power. Where is it used and why...what
are its advantages? How do you convert a 90deg phase shift to three 120deg
legs with a center tapped transformer?
Very curious
Daryl


From adp@cs.ucsb.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:40 EST 1996
Article: 22488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!info.ucla.edu!ucsbuxb.ucsb.edu!nntp.ucsb.edu!sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu!not-for-mail
From: adp@cs.ucsb.edu (Alan D. Pence)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cold Blue and metal protection
Date: 25 Jan 1996 22:57:50 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, UCSB
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu
Keywords: cold blue

Howdy

There was a post a few months back where someone
recomended:
           Brownell's Oxpho Blue - a cold blueing compound

I've made the rounds of all my favorite industrial supply
houses, and could not find it. The closest thing I could
find is a black oxide "kit" at $55 to $85.  And that is
a bit rich for my taste (I love the finish though!)

Does anyone know where I might order some?

I would also welcome any other sugestions for protecting
steel and iron.

Thanks
Alan Pence
adp@cs.ucsb.edu



From elliotb@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:41 EST 1996
Article: 22489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: elliotb@ix.netcom.com(Elliot M Burke )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: .dxf files
Date: 26 Jan 1996 08:32:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4ea3j5$n83@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <8B96481.026100337E.uuout@corpsoft.com> <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-sb1-02.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jan 26 12:32:37 AM PST 1996

In <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org> Jack
<jack@noel.pd.org> writes: 
>
>
>In a conversation with a fabricator about having some laser cutter
work
>done I was told I could save some money by providing .dxf files of my
>patterns. Towards that end I was told that cad programs would output
in
>dxf. I asked a friend who has autocad release 12 about this and was
>told that autocad creates .dwg files.
>
>Anybody know what program I can use to create .dxf files?

most CAD programs and many illustration programs can create DXF files. 
They are intended to be universal (Drawing eXchange Format).  Corel
Draw works OK and there are some $29 CAD programs remaindered that
probably would work too.


From cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:43:42 EST 1996
Article: 22490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!globalnet!usenet
From: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing Larry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gingery V Kaminsky V Ditzhuyzen Furnaces?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 06:08:10 GMT
Organization: A Global Internet client. 
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4ee7pf$oau@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>
Reply-To: cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk
NNTP-Posting-Host: client0516.globalnet.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82


 How do each of these furnace designs compare,?
 I found them on web pages.
 (not the gingery)



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:43 EST 1996
Article: 22491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.exodus.net!aimnet.com!netserv.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Message-ID: <1996Jan27.230325.4281@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Keywords: cold blue
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 23:03:25 GMT
Lines: 43

In article <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>,
Alan D. Pence <adp@cs.ucsb.edu> wrote:
>Howdy
>
>There was a post a few months back where someone
>recomended:
>           Brownell's Oxpho Blue - a cold blueing compound
>
>I've made the rounds of all my favorite industrial supply
>houses, and could not find it. The closest thing I could
>find is a black oxide "kit" at $55 to $85.  And that is
>a bit rich for my taste (I love the finish though!)

How about Brownell's?

Brownell's, Inc
200 S. Front St
Montezuma, Iowa  50171

515-623-5401


>I would also welcome any other sugestions for protecting
>steel and iron.

What are you trying to protect from - the Oxpho Blue is a cold blue
used in gunsmithing and other trades, and won't add a lot of
protection from much more than casual shop use (and I prefer 44/40,
also available from Brownell's).

Different levels of protection are available, up to pretty much
forever protection against acids and the like, all at increasingly
more expensive applications.  Ultimately you can coat with Teflon or
another PTFE, proof against most anything, but in home application I'd
suspect that electroless nickle would likely add more protection than
most anything else.

So, if you mention the requirement someone might be able to suggest
something meeting them (perhaps you already did an I missed it?).
-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Mon Jan 29 10:43:43 EST 1996
Article: 22492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!swidir.switch.ch!serra.unipi.it!news
From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning
Date: 26 Jan 1996 10:27:02 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 134
Message-ID: <4eaa9m$etk@serra.unipi.it>
References: <9601091810.AA40515@128.194.179.45> <30F556FF.19A0@euphonix.com> <4diock$2m3@news.imssys.com> <4e1vdh$osu@newsreader.wustl.edu> <822427616.267 <4e4la1$sui@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zini.cnuce.cnr.it
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <4e4la1$sui@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) says:
>
>Roger Mawby (rmawby@mellie.demon.co.uk) wrote:
>: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

I am restoring one Myford lathe, severely worn, I have posted several
question in this newsgroup and I have received a lot of usefull info and
suggestion. 
Between all I have found the book (In England) and spare parts from Myford tanks to the
help from the newsgroup.
Tank to all.
I write again on this subject because I am working on the late and I am
interested on all the problems.

>
>: >I just got my copy.  It only took about 2 weeks!  The book is well worth it
><snip>
>
.......SNIP......
>
>Yes, that is the author.  It is the 19th printing of the 1955 issue,
>although someone inserted two cartoons from 1967 or so at the end of
>two chapters.
>
>: I have quite severe wear on the rear inverted V-way around the middle

REAR? strange! I have not observed this in my first replay...
In my Myford the FRONT way was severely worn, not the rear.

>: of the bed, in the region where the saddle spends most of its time!. 
>: Have you reconditioned any lathe ways yourself ? and/or what do you
>: believe would be a practical amount to scrape off in preference to say
>: having the slideways ground? . I have made some measurements and
>: believe I would need to take the ways down at least 0.020" - Is this a
>: practical to scrape this amount ? 
>
>No, you'd die of old age before you got rid of 20 thousandths!  A new

I have removed at least 0.01 from the side of the bed ways and 0.02" from the 
saddle and I survived.....

>bed is designed to be scraped .001 to .003, according to Mr. Connelly.
>He does mention scraping as much as .015 to correct wear and errors, but
>this is with power scraping machines.  The bad news is, he says NEVER grind
>the bed!  After grinding, you get a glazed surface that is IMPOSSIBLE to
>scrape!  Hmm, that is pretty interesting - I SURE didn't know that.

The book says hard to scrape the first time, says that a ground surface do not
retain oil, not impossible...

>So, the best advice is to find a large horizontal mill, and have the ways
>milled.  I think there might be some way to use fixtures and a dremel-type
>hand grinder with cylindrical carbide cutters (rotary files) to use the
>good part of the bed as a guide to cutting down the high parts.  Peruse

This seems to me really dangerous... The scraper work is checked at each pass
this can be checked only at the end.

>the book and see if you get any ideas.  But perhaps a long guide which
>slides down an unworn facet of the top of the bed (or maybe the bottom)

If the lathe is worn, where you find a unworn FLAT scraped surface? The
factory do not scrape FLAT useless surfaces.

>and carries the dremel or air-powered die grinder could be used to accurately
>remove the high parts.  Your .020" seems incredible!  Was someone using a
>tool-post grinder daily on this lathe for years?  I have a 10" Atlas, a

This is the true point .020" (about 0.5 mm if I am right) is not incredible
(I have seen one lathe, still working, worn for 1 mm) but is really impressive.
Check the saddle, may be that, due to the wear, it sit down on the wrong place;
I have seen also this on my Myford.

>cheap lathe with just a flat bed (no Vees), built in the early 1940's,
>used plenty, and I just miked the bed (from the bottom guide surface to
>the top) and it varied .001" at most from the center to either end!
>That to me indicates .001" wear in the worst spot!  I was actually amazed!
>I believe the front-back wear is less.  As best as I can tell, this lathe was
>NEVER scraped at the factory, just ground on a special bed grinder and left
>that way.

I have done the same on Myford, and I have obtained one final error of the top
surface of ways of about 0.02 mm ( about 0.001" ).....

>One advantage of a well designed Vee-way bed lathe is that the Vees are
>supposed to wear approximately evenly, so that the front-back position of
>the carriage (the most important) does not vary.  An up/down error is much
>less important, because the sine of small angles is very close to 0.
>If the vees are worn so badly that the carriage sets down on the flat parts

If the bed is worn the carriage V-ways are worn of a larger amount, this is the
first place to check.

>of the bed, however, then there is no simple fix.  The bed or carriage needs
>repair.  relieving the place on the carriage that touches flat on the bed is
>the first step.

There is a dirty trick: scrape the V ways of the carriage rougly flat, cut two
strip  of brass, silver  solder the strip under the V-ways of the carriage and scrape
and scrape the bras flat...... IS REALLY A DIRTY TRICK
>
>Anyway, the book tells how to measure these errors with simple tools 
>(although some of those precision levels and straight edges are quite
>expensive).  If you want to get down to details, I have never done scraping
>before, either, but I HAVE done a great deal of simpler maintenance on my
>poor, abused Atlas.  (That abuse was BEFORE I got it.)  But I would certainly
>be glad to discuss methods in the book, and how you might accomplish them
>with somewhat less fancy tools than Mr. Connelly assumes you have.

I have been forced to build the straight edge from scratch.....
The difference is the tool, i started using one scraper built from a file and the
work was slow and hard, finally I have invested 60 $$$$$ on one carbide blade scraper
and it makes the difference.

>
>                                                Jon
>

Paolo

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From caiminc@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:44 EST 1996
Article: 22493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: caiminc@aol.com (CAIM Inc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cinncinati-Milacron VMC Problems
Date: 26 Jan 1996 05:43:05 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 10
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4eab7p$8td@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: caiminc@aol.com (CAIM Inc)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Has any one else had or know anyone who has had problems with
Cincinnati-Milacron Vertical Machining Center?  If so please e-mail or
post responses.  We are specifically looking for problems with
underpowered servos and tracking error.

Thanks,

Jim Walters
CAIM, Inc.



From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:45 EST 1996
Article: 22494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ssd.intel.com!news.jf.intel.com!ichips.intel.com!gdermer
From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Van Norman 5V collets needed
Date: 26 Jan 96 22:33:04 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <gdermer.822695584@ichips.intel.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dtt026.jf.intel.com

The subject really says it all.  Need a collection of sizes for Van
Norman dividing head.  These are known as 5V collets.

In case you have unidentified collets, the 5V's have a body diameter of
0.875", overall length of about 3 11/16" and have an external drawbar
thread of 0.769"-18tpi.


Greg

gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:46 EST 1996
Article: 22495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!acad.stedwards.edu!admin.stedwards.edu!rays
From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Date: 27 Jan 1996 22:58:58 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4eeani$gif@acad.stedwards.edu>
References: <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com> <4e9si3$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: admin.stedwards.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: Randolph Lee (r.lee@windshadow.com) wrote:
: : My local ISP Tech brought a vintage 1991 1 gig 5" seagate Hard drive 
: : into the shop and we had fun tearing it apart...

: Yes, I always grab a hard disk of any size I find being thrown out.  There
: are bearings, lots of small aluminum parts, hardware, magnets, a brushless
: DC 3600 RPM motor (most of the newest drives have the motor control 
: integrated with the microprocessor that runs the whole drive; too bad) and
: just a whole lot of interesting parts that can wait in the junk box until
: you need a part 'just like that one'.


If you want really big magnets try to find some of the old "washing machine"
type CDC 80 or 300 meg drives.  Lots of AL, stainless screws, little
precision roller bearing, 1/2 HP motor, high precision spring loaded bearing
on the disk shaft and lots of hi amp DC power.  In addition to this usually
a pretty heafty welded steel cabinet with casters.  Pretty amazing to compare
those 1970 model 80 meg drives with the current 4 gig drives which are 
smaller than most hardcover books.





From dwebster@chelsea.ios.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:46 EST 1996
Article: 22496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ios.com!news2.ios.com!chelsea.ios.com!dwebster
From: dwebster@chelsea.ios.com (David WebsterXAXX)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Question
Date: 27 Jan 1996 23:15:43 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4eebmv$m90@news2.ios.com>
References: <4e9ggd$f53@ganesh.lm.com> <4ed89q$7oh@omni2.voicenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: chelsea.ios.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Tony Jucewicz (tonyspg@voicenet.com) wrote:
:  Press a fastner into a blind hole on the back side.

Pressing it into a through hole from the front is cheaper and easier than 
counter-boring the blind hole.:)

How about a capacitor-discharge stud welder (gun style)?  Do those work 
well on aluminum?

Wait!  Are we talking studs or nuts, how long/large/many?

: The Fishguy (fishguy@telerama.lm.com) wrote:
: : Hi, I work in a small plant that presses letters and logos out of
: : several metals. Our major product for many years has been porcelan 
: : enamel on steel. if you see the Good / Year logo bolted to a wall, we 
: : probably did it. Anyway, we are working on moving more into the other 
: : metals; brass, copper, stainless, and aluminum. We can make a quality 
: : aluminum letter for nearly as cheap as plastic. The problem is that we 
: : are having trouble attaching fasteners to the finished letter. Our cash 
: : flow is nowhere near healthy enough to buy a new spot welder that would 
: : handle the job. Does anyone know of a quick and relitively easy way to 
: : weld or otherwise connect two pieces of aluminum?			

: : 				Dave Haun  
: : 				Grinding and Pickling
: : 				Walbridge Corp.

: -- 
: Tony Jucewicz   tonyspg@voicenet.com         Stone is forever ########
: http://www.voicenet.com/~tonyspg             And EVER ################
: BBS (610)346-9047    Stonework "HOW-TO"      And YES, EVER ###########


From ARM@unix.infoserve.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:47 EST 1996
Article: 22497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!news.bc.net!news.infoserve.net!usenet
From: ARM@unix.infoserve.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Casting.
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 23:15:32 GMT
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4eebvf$82n@news.infoserve.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d145.infoserve.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Does any one have information on small parts metal casting?  I'm
looking for reference material or some one who has experience. 
Is there an existing thread somewhere?
	Thanks




From olcmt@pop.pi.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:48 EST 1996
Article: 22498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.nic.surfnet.nl!news.pi.net!news
From: olcmt@pop.pi.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Colouring Copper
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 10:54:58 GMT
Organization: Planet Internet
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4eafbt$72o@neptunus.pi.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: maa20.pi.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Could anybody tell me how to colour copper with
normal household materials.
(black, brown or any other dark colour)

thanks
Hans




From hr@nwlink.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:48 EST 1996
Article: 22499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwlink.com!port49
From: hr@nwlink.com (Rich S)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lathe recomendations???
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 21:01:47 GMT
Organization: Northwest Link
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	I'm considering selling my Emco Maier Maximat 7 with mill 
head, and moving up to a larger lathe, say around 12x36. But before I 
do sell I'd like to hear opinions about other lathes of reasonably 
like quality for the approxement same price. What makes you think you 
can get a larger lathe for the same price, you say? Well, the Austrian 
built lathe is extremly accurate, as is the mill head, the chucks are 
either European or high quality Japanese and so is rest of the 
tooling. And now I'm looking for a good quality American made that may 
not be as young. I have no real experiance with other makes of lathe, 
so I thought I'd ask the group for opinions on I what make I should 
look for and the price range before I go to used machine tool place. 
Around $2300.00 is what I'm going to try to sell my Maximat 7 for. Oh, 
yeah, I'd like a morse taper #5 or #6 in the head stock.

				Sincerly;
					Rich S


From Pinkerton_Kevin%si@mr.nawcad.navy.mil Mon Jan 29 10:43:49 EST 1996
Article: 22500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!aug2.augsburg.edu!petit
From: Pinkerton_Kevin%si@mr.nawcad.navy.mil (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Date: 26 Jan 1996 12:04:21 GMT
Organization: AlliedSignal Technical Services
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In article <4e9u1e$5od@sylvester.cs.ucsb.edu>, adp@cs.ucsb.edu says...
>
>Howdy
>
>There was a post a few months back where someone
>recomended:
>           Brownell's Oxpho Blue - a cold blueing compound
>

Well, you must not be a gun enthusiest, You can order it direct from
Brownells, 515-623-5401
They have a catalog that they usually charge for, but it is covered on your 
order. The catalog is worth having as it has lots and lots of gunsmithing
items.



From an393107@anon.penet.fi Mon Jan 29 10:43:51 EST 1996
Article: 22501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <122303Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!anon.penet.fi
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: an393107@anon.penet.fi
X-Anonymously-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: Anonymous forwarding service
Reply-To: an393107@anon.penet.fi
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:13:34 UTC
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Lines: 133




In <4dt2n0$otf@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> dakeltie@ix.netcom.com (Dale A. Keltie )
writes:
>
>In <4drbu7$c4i@gap.cco.caltech.edu> lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
>writes: 
>>
>>In article <30fd93eb.552881805@news.islandnet.com>,
>
>>I don't see what problem you have with the posts of this person. THere
>are
>>so many ads on this news group, that are commercial in nature, that I
>do not
>>see any problem. There is much greater bandwidth taken by postings in
>other
>>news groups such as alt.sex etc. It is perhaps the person did not get
>any
>>reply. It is also possible that you or other people want to suppress
>certain
>>kind of Info to be distributed publicly, probably your proprietary
>info.
>>
>>Any way shut up this childish nonsene and get on with your life.
>>
>>abid
>
>
>Adid -
>
>Does Cal. Tech. offer a course in common manners?  Do they offer group
>rates on tuition?  If so, perhaps you and your pal lbliao should
>consider an (apparently) new academic adventure.

Mr. Keltie, on the contrary do you have any manners? The way you are
spewing out this unintelligible verbiage full of assumptions tells us
something about you. Who appointed you to be the policeman or priest
of this newsgroup?

>One of the objectives of newsgroups such as this is the interchange of
>information and opinion of interest to all who participate.  Much of

I contacted the person by email, and they did not receive any responses.
You then posted about the number of times the person posted the message.
If what you say above is your intention, then you should be thankful for
the multiple postings, because that is getting answers.

>that information, especially that acquired in the experience of those
>posting responses to technical questions, can be damned difficult, time
>consuming, and expensive to obtain from other resources.  Responses to
>questions posed (or in lbliao's case, ill-posed) 

who are you to decide the ill-posedness? I think that you should be able
to understand a simple english phrase, "looking for books on 
scraping and flaking" and the subsequent message, if you had primary
school education in the US. Or, is the standard of education too low?

>here are generally
>posted here, rather than e-mailed, so all participants can benefit from
>those responses and the ad hoc forum, albiet temporary, thus created. 

I agree, but can you understand that a poster can only reply when he/she
gets a reply. Further, many people do not have internet posting access, as
I do not. You can always send email to any original poster to see if they
got any replies.

>I suspect 

This word probably characterizes you. Not everyone thinks like you.

>lbliao simply posts (and re-posts) his questions here, as
>well as to at least one other technically oriented newsgroup I read,
>and then, somewhat arrogantly I think, expects an e-mail overflow of
>response.  As opposed to the persom whom you chose to attack (a
>frequent CONTRIBUTOR to this newsgroup), I have never seen a newsgroup
>post from lbliao, here or in sci.engr.mech, that I would regard as

again you are making a grave assumption. I do not know about your IQ, but
many people do not have posting facility. Further, many people like to 
help privately. I do reply to many people privately. Most of the people
posting are what I would call "agents", (a too strong term) of the businesses
that profit from these newsgroups. These are junk sellers, selling eg many old
books for exorbitent prices for the quality of the material; auctioneers
who benefit from gathering as many people as possible. If any one of them
denies/lies they have no business interest, then there is no way to prove it.
But I do not know how these people are supporting themselves when they have
so much time for posting. They are trying to create a false enthusiasm about
a field, that is a very old art. Now, I would not say this about a newsgroup
like the one on TeX, which has genuinely useful information posted, and
is virtually free for anyone who has ftp access. Most people there are
those who are writing their thesis, and share information in the way of
this occupation.

>contributory in nature.  He doesn't even take the time to clarify an
>ill-posed question when the confusion generated by that question would
>be readily apparent to a reader of attempted answers (e.g., that
>"flats" thing; I don't think anyone really knows what the Hell he was
>babbling 

your language tells your character

>about even now).  That, I believe, is because he doesn't
>trouble himself to read the generally numerous articles that other
>people troubled themselves to write in response to his questions. I
>think you and lbliao should trouble yourselves to go back several days
>in this newsgroup, and in sci.engr.mech, and look at the number of
>responses to lbliao's most recent question.  No Adid, you needn't
>expend the effort to read them, just count 'em.  Then ask yourselves
>just how perfectly idiotic 

masterpiece!

>your remarks must seem to people who have
>read those responses, and especially to the people who took the time to
>post one.
>
>Cal. Tech. has one of the most prestigious engineering libraries on the
>face of the earth by the way, have you or lbliao ever seen it?  Check
>it out (go inside).
>
>Regards, Dale  

Well you might want to post a little about their libraries, since I plan
to go there for grad school.

No Regards, as long as you try to be the policeman in this group!
Lennart Johnson
--****ATTENTION****--****ATTENTION****--****ATTENTION****--***ATTENTION***
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From an393107@anon.penet.fi Mon Jan 29 10:43:51 EST 1996
Article: 22502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <122326Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!anon.penet.fi
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: an393107@anon.penet.fi
X-Anonymously-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: Anonymous forwarding service
Reply-To: an393107@anon.penet.fi
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:14:03 UTC
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Lines: 133




In <4dt2n0$otf@ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> dakeltie@ix.netcom.com (Dale A. Keltie )
writes:
>
>In <4drbu7$c4i@gap.cco.caltech.edu> lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
>writes: 
>>
>>In article <30fd93eb.552881805@news.islandnet.com>,
>
>>I don't see what problem you have with the posts of this person. THere
>are
>>so many ads on this news group, that are commercial in nature, that I
>do not
>>see any problem. There is much greater bandwidth taken by postings in
>other
>>news groups such as alt.sex etc. It is perhaps the person did not get
>any
>>reply. It is also possible that you or other people want to suppress
>certain
>>kind of Info to be distributed publicly, probably your proprietary
>info.
>>
>>Any way shut up this childish nonsene and get on with your life.
>>
>>abid
>
>
>Adid -
>
>Does Cal. Tech. offer a course in common manners?  Do they offer group
>rates on tuition?  If so, perhaps you and your pal lbliao should
>consider an (apparently) new academic adventure.

Mr. Keltie, on the contrary do you have any manners? The way you are
spewing out this unintelligible verbiage full of assumptions tells us
something about you. Who appointed you to be the policeman or priest
of this newsgroup?

>One of the objectives of newsgroups such as this is the interchange of
>information and opinion of interest to all who participate.  Much of

I contacted the person by email, and they did not receive any responses.
You then posted about the number of times the person posted the message.
If what you say above is your intention, then you should be thankful for
the multiple postings, because that is getting answers.

>that information, especially that acquired in the experience of those
>posting responses to technical questions, can be damned difficult, time
>consuming, and expensive to obtain from other resources.  Responses to
>questions posed (or in lbliao's case, ill-posed) 

who are you to decide the ill-posedness? I think that you should be able
to understand a simple english phrase, "looking for books on 
scraping and flaking" and the subsequent message, if you had primary
school education in the US. Or, is the standard of education too low?

>here are generally
>posted here, rather than e-mailed, so all participants can benefit from
>those responses and the ad hoc forum, albiet temporary, thus created. 

I agree, but can you understand that a poster can only reply when he/she
gets a reply. Further, many people do not have internet posting access, as
I do not. You can always send email to any original poster to see if they
got any replies.

>I suspect 

This word probably characterizes you. Not everyone thinks like you.

>lbliao simply posts (and re-posts) his questions here, as
>well as to at least one other technically oriented newsgroup I read,
>and then, somewhat arrogantly I think, expects an e-mail overflow of
>response.  As opposed to the persom whom you chose to attack (a
>frequent CONTRIBUTOR to this newsgroup), I have never seen a newsgroup
>post from lbliao, here or in sci.engr.mech, that I would regard as

again you are making a grave assumption. I do not know about your IQ, but
many people do not have posting facility. Further, many people like to 
help privately. I do reply to many people privately. Most of the people
posting are what I would call "agents", (a too strong term) of the businesses
that profit from these newsgroups. These are junk sellers, selling eg many old
books for exorbitent prices for the quality of the material; auctioneers
who benefit from gathering as many people as possible. If any one of them
denies/lies they have no business interest, then there is no way to prove it.
But I do not know how these people are supporting themselves when they have
so much time for posting. They are trying to create a false enthusiasm about
a field, that is a very old art. Now, I would not say this about a newsgroup
like the one on TeX, which has genuinely useful information posted, and
is virtually free for anyone who has ftp access. Most people there are
those who are writing their thesis, and share information in the way of
this occupation.

>contributory in nature.  He doesn't even take the time to clarify an
>ill-posed question when the confusion generated by that question would
>be readily apparent to a reader of attempted answers (e.g., that
>"flats" thing; I don't think anyone really knows what the Hell he was
>babbling 

your language tells your character

>about even now).  That, I believe, is because he doesn't
>trouble himself to read the generally numerous articles that other
>people troubled themselves to write in response to his questions. I
>think you and lbliao should trouble yourselves to go back several days
>in this newsgroup, and in sci.engr.mech, and look at the number of
>responses to lbliao's most recent question.  No Adid, you needn't
>expend the effort to read them, just count 'em.  Then ask yourselves
>just how perfectly idiotic 

masterpiece!

>your remarks must seem to people who have
>read those responses, and especially to the people who took the time to
>post one.
>
>Cal. Tech. has one of the most prestigious engineering libraries on the
>face of the earth by the way, have you or lbliao ever seen it?  Check
>it out (go inside).
>
>Regards, Dale  

Well you might want to post a little about their libraries, since I plan
to go there for grad school.

No Regards, as long as you try to be the policeman in this group!
Lennart Johnson
--****ATTENTION****--****ATTENTION****--****ATTENTION****--***ATTENTION***
Your e-mail reply to this message WILL be *automatically* ANONYMIZED.
Please, report inappropriate use to                abuse@anon.penet.fi
For information (incl. non-anon reply) write to    help@anon.penet.fi
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From rpm@rpm.ultranet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:52 EST 1996
Article: 22503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!rpm.ultranet.com!rpm
From: rpm@rpm.ultranet.com (Rod Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: European Machines Replacement Parts
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 20:29:15 GMT
Organization: UltraNet Communications, Inc.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <rpm.447.000DAEC1@rpm.ultranet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rpm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]



For those of you who have need of European equipment replacement parts, we are 
an American firm specializing in providing replacement parts and components 
for European made equipment of all kinds (Italian, German, French, English, 
Scandinavian, Polish, etc.). American and other national manufacturers and 
other businesses use quite a bit of European  made equipment. We can save you 
up to 50% and  provide faster service. Our two European offices are 
multi-lingual and we know all the OEM vendors. Contact 

Rod Murphy    rpm@rpm.ultranet.com
                      PARTS SOURCE INTERNATIONAL
                      105 Dresser St.
                      Southbridge, MA 01550    508-765-0045




From sheba@panix.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:53 EST 1996
Article: 22504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!not-for-mail
From: sheba@panix.com (Insect God)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electric die grinder recommendations?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 20:39:39 -0500
Organization: panix.com
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4eek4r$89h@panix3.panix.com>
References: <4ebgg1$rqd@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix3.panix.com

dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson) said:
>   I was wondering if anyone had any solid recommendations for 
>   electric die grinders.  ( It's been pointed out to me that
>   the air-powered units are nice, but getting a compressor big
>   enough to power one is impractical for me, both financially and
>   otherwise... )  Much to my surprise, in searching thru the
>   rcm archives, this question has never really been asked before
>   except peripherally!  Idyllic, or what! :-)
>
>   To get more specific, in the roughly $200-250 range, are there
>   any units that stand out in terms of value or perceived quality?
>   Relative to the others in that price range.  Or are they all
>   pretty much a commodity?

I haven't sampled around, but I've had for four years a Milwaukee
"heavy-duty" model, 4.5 amp, 21,000 RPM, which cost about $200, and I'm very
happy with it.  It's pretty big, particularly if you're used to air tools,
but that also helps keep it steady; it's long enough to hold against my arm.

>   Intended applications, at least as far as my own purposes are
>   concerned, would be cleaning up bronze castings, cutting stuff
>   like tool steel and largish steel plate/sheet, and general
>   freehand metal shaping.

I use mine almost exclusively for cleaning castings, with stones and carbide
burrs, and it seems to be the right tool for that.  I sometimes wish it were
variable-speed - there are some finishes which you get only with a slow burr
- but it is a good grinder with lots o torque.

-Sheba                 http://cgim.pratt.edu/faculty/bathsheba/sheba.htm


From xltool@earthlink.net Mon Jan 29 10:43:54 EST 1996
Article: 22505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Leonard Dye <xltool@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: High Speed Machining
Date: 28 Jan 1996 01:38:45 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.machines.cnc:16 sci.engr.manufacturing:10165 rec.crafts.metalworking:22505

I'm interested in learning more about HSM. Can anyone lead me to 
publications on the subject?  Are you experienced with HSM applications? 
I understand some of the basic phenomenon behind HSM, like the 
correlation of SFM/Heat bell curve (which I assume only applies to 
milling, and not to turning or drilling).  Is the H.P. requirements 
consistent with traditional machining?  With new innovations in spindle 
technology, are they actually achieving true HSM with smaller diameter 
tools, or just "spinning their wheels"?  What are some of the plateaus 
for various materials in terms of SFM.  What are some applications for 
HSM, do they make roughing cuts or just finish profiling?

Any information would be greatly apprieciated!

Leonard Dye
xltool@earthlink.net



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:55 EST 1996
Article: 22506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Update--To buy bench universal milling machine
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 21:00:20 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <ginger.329.022D10AF@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <4eas9i$g04@limestone.kosone.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
Summary: Looking for source of bench milling machine
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <4eas9i$g04@limestone.kosone.com> cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com writes:
>From: cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com
>Subject: Update--To buy bench universal milling machine
>Date: 26 Jan 1996 15:34:10 GMT
>Summary: Looking for source of bench milling machine

>I want to buy a bench-type universal milling machine, preferably a 
>"Centec"2B, new or used. Do you know any sppliers, preferably in North 
>America, but not necessarily so. Please reply to: 
>cafe063@intcafe.kosone.com      Error in address in previous posting.

I believe Centec has been out of business for years. I bought a used one 
several years ago, and tried to contact the company then and they were gone.

I do see them listed in MODEL ENGINEER want ads from time to time, and I am 
always interested to see the price of over 1000 UKpounds. I bought mine for 
US$250.

I eventually sold mine when I bought a bigger Clausing mill, Wish I had room 
to keep the Centec, it was a fine little machine.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From michael@zoom.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:55 EST 1996
Article: 22507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!wizard.pn.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.zoom.com!michael-ppp.zoom.com!user
From: michael@zoom.com (Michael Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Temp. Controllers and Misc
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 06:16:11 +0800
Organization: Zoom.Com Information Services, Inc.
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <michael-2801960616110001@michael-ppp.zoom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: michael-ppp.zoom.com

I have the following items for sale:

(5) Barber-Coleman temperature controllers, Model 580, relay output, $40 ea.

(5) Love Controls temperature controllers, Series 1600, relay output, $45 ea.

 (1) Honeywell UDC 500, temperature controller, $70

(1) Muffle oven, 1800 degrees F, may be good for heat treating cutting
tools, etc.
        this unit is probably 20 - 30 years old, $60

(1) Lincoln welder,  Model Idealarc 250,  230-440volt, single phase, there
is also a 
        high-freq. box for tig welding, I believe the hi-freq. box needs
to be repaired, $325 for both

(3) Ikegami B/W cameras with one B/W monitor, cameras have cabinets for
exterior use
        $225 for all

(1) Makita 14" chop saw Model 2414, $65

I also have several Moore SLDC 352 controllers, Durant counters, Dixon
vertical scale bargraphs, a 
couple of differential pressure cells, 1hp 30 gallon air compressor, gas
driven Lincoln welder, winch.

Prices above do not include shipping and handling.  Everything sold
as-is.  If you need more details 
please e-mail.  I am located in the S.F. Bay Area.

Michael
michael@zoom.com


From 73737.1755@CompuServe.COM Mon Jan 29 10:43:56 EST 1996
Article: 22508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Bill Peters <73737.1755@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Your Opinions Please...
Date: 28 Jan 1996 02:41:57 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4eenpl$dls$3@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>
References: <4dvvth$3t6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>

Tony,
I have an old 9" South Bend lathe and a Tiawan Mill Drill. I have 
had a close look at the Enco lathes and Mill Drill and I think they 
are just fine. Their current Mill/Drills are certainly better made 
than my old but adequate one. I believe you made a good choice. I 
don't expect you will have any problems running your lathe for 
decades.

Keep it well lubricated with a good machinery oil like 3-in-1. the 
additives in Auto oils may cause harm. Wipe it occassionaly with oil
to prevent rust. Keep dust, particularly cuttings from abrasive 
plastics out of critical areas, bearings, gears etc. and the Enco 
should last as long as my lat least 50 year old South Bend.

Bill Peters
Calgary, Canada
73737.1755@compuserve.com


From rcheli@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:57 EST 1996
Article: 22509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rcheli@aol.com (RCHeli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Questions on cutting sheet steel
Date: 27 Jan 1996 22:26:08 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 18
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4eeqcg$88k@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4ed71a$7lk@omni2.voicenet.com>
Reply-To: rcheli@aol.com (RCHeli)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

A Plasma cutter is what you want (I want one too but don't want to spend
the $2000 for the one that I like).  Makes nice smooth cuts FAST.  Very
noisey and a little messy but you can cut any shape you would like.  A 40
amp machine will cut Aluminum, Steel and Stainless up to 1/2".  Requires
compressed air to blow the molten metal out.  Do you have a compressor?  

I too make a lot of small projects and spend most of my time trying to cut
or figure out how to cut a piece of metal.  I have a die grinder, abrasive
chop saw and recently bought a 12" compound miter saw w/carbide tipped
blade (aluminum cutting only).  My wife was going to get me that plasma
cutter for Christmas until she saw the price tag (that was probably a dumb
move since she will know how much I spent when I talk myself into buying
one and come home with a Plasma cutter in the trunk and a smile on my
face).


Kevin Maggard
RCHeli@AOL.COM


From tonyspg@voicenet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:58 EST 1996
Article: 22510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!omni2.voicenet.com!not-for-mail
From: tonyspg@voicenet.com (Tony Jucewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Date: 27 Jan 1996 08:06:06 -0500
Organization: Voicenet - Internet Access - (215)674-9290
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4ed7vu$7nl@omni2.voicenet.com>
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: omni2.voicenet.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Eric, try /~metals on the url. I just tried, and got through fine. It listed
"3 phase motor comming soon". Not sure what that means, but the site does
work.
Tony

Eric Saville (esaville@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I am trying to get a hold of a schematic for a circuit to run a 3 phase
: motor on 2 phase converter. I recently saw a posting that said they
: were available at web site http://plains.uwyo.edu /"metal, when I try
: access it I recieve an error- forbiden. Can any one provide me with the
: schematic, or tell me another way to get them. Thank you.
-- 
Tony Jucewicz   tonyspg@voicenet.com         Stone is forever ########
http://www.voicenet.com/~tonyspg             And EVER ################
BBS (610)346-9047    Stonework "HOW-TO"      And YES, EVER ###########


From tonyspg@voicenet.com Mon Jan 29 10:43:58 EST 1996
Article: 22511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!omni2.voicenet.com!not-for-mail
From: tonyspg@voicenet.com (Tony Jucewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Question
Date: 27 Jan 1996 08:11:22 -0500
Organization: Voicenet - Internet Access - (215)674-9290
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4ed89q$7oh@omni2.voicenet.com>
References: <4e9ggd$f53@ganesh.lm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: omni2.voicenet.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

 Press a fastner into a blind hole on the back side.

The Fishguy (fishguy@telerama.lm.com) wrote:
: Hi, I work in a small plant that presses letters and logos out of
: several metals. Our major product for many years has been porcelan 
: enamel on steel. if you see the Good / Year logo bolted to a wall, we 
: probably did it. Anyway, we are working on moving more into the other 
: metals; brass, copper, stainless, and aluminum. We can make a quality 
: aluminum letter for nearly as cheap as plastic. The problem is that we 
: are having trouble attaching fasteners to the finished letter. Our cash 
: flow is nowhere near healthy enough to buy a new spot welder that would 
: handle the job. Does anyone know of a quick and relitively easy way to 
: weld or otherwise connect two pieces of aluminum?			

: 				Dave Haun  
: 				Grinding and Pickling
: 				Walbridge Corp.

-- 
Tony Jucewicz   tonyspg@voicenet.com         Stone is forever ########
http://www.voicenet.com/~tonyspg             And EVER ################
BBS (610)346-9047    Stonework "HOW-TO"      And YES, EVER ###########


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Mon Jan 29 10:43:59 EST 1996
Article: 22512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Date: 26 Jan 1996 14:26:26 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <4eaoai$8lb@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com> <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <4e9t01$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu> jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
>Eric Saville (esaville@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>: I am trying to get a hold of a schematic for a circuit to run a 3 phase
>: motor on 2 phase converter. I recently saw a posting that said they
>: were available at web site http://plains.uwyo.edu /"metal, when I try
>: access it I recieve an error- forbiden. Can any one provide me with the
>: schematic, or tell me another way to get them. Thank you.
>
>What do you mean by 2 phase.  Do you mean 220 with a neutral?  That is not
>really 2 phase, just center-tapped single phase.  REAL 2 phase has a 90
>degree phase shift between the two phases, and it CAN be converted to REAL
>3 phase with a simple center-tapped transformer, called a Scott-T.  But
>you probably don't have 2 phase power with the 90 degree phase shift.
>The so-called phase converters are really a starting capacitor and relay.
>it drops out after the motor starts, and you get very little torque from
>it.  I used a cedarburg converter on my 1/2 HP Bridgeport for years, and it
>was a real trick to do any roughing cuts without stalling the mill.  I 
>finally got a Drivecon 1/2 HP variable speed drive (which takes 1 phase in)
>and now the motor never stalls.  I used to be able to stall it by holding the
>spindle with my hand!  I don't want to try that trick now!
>
>Unfortunately, the Drivecon gets expensive for the larger models.
>

Using a 3 phase idler motor generates "real" 3 phase within limits and
allows you to get close to 100% of the rated power on your tools.  The
metal web article is an excellent treatise on this subject.  You can
probably build one for $100-$150, maybe less depending on how fancy
you want to get and what you can scrounge.  As somebody else pointed
out the URL is http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html

I have absolutely no interest in trying to stall my mill (1hp Bridgeport)
using my hand :-)

The variable speed inverter is a really neat technology which gives you
infinitely variable speed.  If you can afford it, this has a lot of
advantages.  I did some looking into this a while back to see if it
was reasonable to build one from scratch.  I concluded that it's possible,
but going much over 1HP would get difficult (i.e. expensive).  These
things work by changing your 220AC into DC and then synthesizing the
correct three phase waveforms.  You can cheat a little by making a
stepped square wave instead of a true sinewave without getting into
too much trouble, but the more sophisticated devices use pulse width
modulation techniques to get the correct Voltage/Current characteristics
as seen by the load as well as varying the frequency with the motor
speed.  Controlling 220V at 15-20A is not trivial (in other words $$$)



--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From alberic@access1.digex.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:00 EST 1996
Article: 22513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news3.digex.net!access1!alberic
From: alberic@access1.digex.net (Brian Meek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: 10" lathe milling attachment.
Date: 26 Jan 1996 09:30:19 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <alberic.822666429@access1>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access1.digex.net
Keywords: WTB, Lathe, mill

Greetings all:
I'm looking for a milling attachment to fit a 9 or 10 inch SB.
(it's a 9 heavy: beefed up 9 head stuck to a 10's bed and apron.)
If you have one that you're willing to part with for some reasonable 
sum of monetary units, please E-mail me.

Thanks,
Brian

-- 
-----

--->  If 9000 monkeys pounding keyboards will eventually produce the  <---
-->  Complete Works of Shakespeare, why hasn't AOL produced a sonnet?  <--


From mbadams@acpub.duke.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:01 EST 1996
Article: 22514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!usenet
From: Martha Adams <mbadams@acpub.duke.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to run a vertical milling machine?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 21:33:24 -0800
Organization: Duke University, Durham, NC, USA
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CC: mbadams@acpub.duke.edu

Does anyone out there know if there is a good book on how to operate a 
verticle mill?  There are plenty of books on lathes, but I can't find one 
on mills. I have questions on cutting depths, feeds, speeds and the 
different types of cutters available.  Any help would be appreciated.
Richard Adams


From kevinr3@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:02 EST 1996
Article: 22515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: kevinr3@ix.netcom.com(Kevin Richardson )
Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High Speed Machining
Date: 28 Jan 1996 04:19:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4eetgp$9j8@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4eek35$pfv@argentina.it.earthlink.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: atl-ga14-05.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27  8:19:39 PM PST 1996
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.machines.cnc:17 sci.engr.manufacturing:10170 rec.crafts.metalworking:22515

In <4eek35$pfv@argentina.it.earthlink.net> Leonard Dye
<xltool@earthlink.net> writes: 
>
>I'm interested in learning more about HSM. Can anyone lead me to 
>publications on the subject?  Are you experienced with HSM
applications? 
>I understand some of the basic phenomenon behind HSM, like the 
>correlation of SFM/Heat bell curve (which I assume only applies to 
>milling, and not to turning or drilling).  Is the H.P. requirements 
>consistent with traditional machining?  With new innovations in
spindle 
>technology, are they actually achieving true HSM with smaller diameter

>tools, or just "spinning their wheels"?  What are some of the plateaus

>for various materials in terms of SFM.  What are some applications for

>HSM, do they make roughing cuts or just finish profiling?
>
>Any information would be greatly apprieciated!
>
>Leonard Dye
>xltool@earthlink.net
>
There are a couple of monthly publications like Modern Machine Shop and
Metalfax that you may be interested in.  These are free subscriptions
to industrial concerns.  We utilize CNC vertical mills and turning
centers in our operations, and time is big money.  We rough pass in
100 depths at 2500 rpm all day long anywhere from 400 - 800 surface
feet/minute depending on the material being used.  We'll then come back
with a finishing tool at about 3000 rpm cutting .010-.020 for a good
finish.  We do this on the VMC's as well.  All these tools are Sandvik,
Iscar etc. carbide insert.

kevinr3@ix.netcom.com


From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:02 EST 1996
Article: 22516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!chi-news.cic.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating thickness
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 23:37:00 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <310ab454.83890028@news.islandnet.com>
References: <31072792.486384877@news.islandnet.com> <4eds4h$s2m@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hardwicke.islandnet.com

Thanks for the input. I am getting somewhat confused about the
thickness issue by now. I had one reply recommending 0.001", one
recommending 0.01 and this one at 0.004. My personal thought (and I
stress the word 'thought') is that 0.001 is too thin so I leaned
towards the 0.01 figure but 0.004 seems ok too. What different
characteristics would different thicknesses have. Why would I want a
particular thickness (0.001, 0.004 or 0.01) ?
Any and all thougts appreciated.
Also, in regards to the adhesion problem I had, the paint shop feels
that possibly the cleaning and pre-treatment chemicals were not
working properly so they are bringing in the chemical distributor to
look at things. Does this seem like a reasonable assumption assuming
that the de-greaser bath works ok and no oils are left on the steel ?
My original thought was that maybe they are handling the product with
bare hands so that you get a re-deposition of oil but I am now told
that this is not a problem as long as the product is wet. (Don't ask
me why wet versus dry should make any difference). 
Any thoughts ?????

>My business uses powder coating that is done by outside painting
>businesses.  The thickness that we demand is about 0.004". 


From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:03 EST 1996
Article: 22517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!chi-news.cic.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 00:04:08 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <310ab78f.84717034@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tzartus.islandnet.com

My apologies for this very long and verbose post that follows. If you
are pressed for time you might want to ignore it ... I had to explain
things though.

Hi,
I am re-hashing and old problem that I had before. 
I am trying to set up a jig to drill up to 75 holes at equal spacing
with an exact (within 0.01") match between multiple parts drilled with
the 75 holes. (hope that explains it).
I currently use a jig that involves drilling hole 1 based on
measurement, then the work piece moves up and a pin is inserted in
hole 1 in order to drill hole 2. The distance between the pin and the
spotting drill is the distance between all of the holes. My problem
with this setup is that each hole depends on the accuracy of the
previous hole. The actual distance between the holes is less important
than that all holes on all parts line up with each other. With the
setup I currently have (even though it's evolved quite a bit) the
individual errors that add up between the holes can really mess things
up. It would be ok if the errors were random since over that many
holes this would even out but the errors do not appear that random
with the end result that between part a and part b there could be a
good  1/2" difference in the location of the last hole.
I contemplated life (and a number of other important issues) and
decided that there is no way that I can drill accurate holes with the
current (or any other) setup that relies on the previous hole to
locate the current hole. I also don't want to use another jig to drill
maybe 10 longer spaced holes and then drill all the in-between holes
and thus reducing total drift.
So, it seems the way to go would be to have a multi-stop gauge that
locates every hole separately with the errors not adding up. The
obvious way seems to be a pre-drilled gauge (every hole measured
accurately) and a stop pin moved from each hole to the next as a hole
is drilled. This is all nice and dandy but when you have a long part,
the time that it takes to leave the drill press, walk to the end of
the gauge, move the pin and walk back to the drill press really adds
up. Somebody in this world must have thought up a nifty way of doing
this step drilling accurately without having to walk back and forth
(at a reasonable cost - ie cheap).
Maybe some of you geniuses out there might have a thought on this. I
am starting to have a problem seeing the forest cause of all the trees
...... I have just pondered this waayyyy too long now.
Thanks for your input and sorry for the looooong post.
Regards 
Jens 


From kevinr3@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:04 EST 1996
Article: 22518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: kevinr3@ix.netcom.com(Kevin Richardson )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: 28 Jan 1996 05:01:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 156
Message-ID: <4ef007$m6c@cloner3.netcom.com>
References: <310ab78f.84717034@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: atl-ga14-05.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27  9:01:59 PM PST 1996

In <310ab78f.84717034@news.islandnet.com> psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
writes: 
>
>My apologies for this very long and verbose post that follows. If you
>are pressed for time you might want to ignore it ... I had to explain
>things though.
>
>Hi,
>I am re-hashing and old problem that I had before. 
>I am trying to set up a jig to drill up to 75 holes at equal spacing
>with an exact (within 0.01") match between multiple parts drilled with
>the 75 holes. (hope that explains it).
>I currently use a jig that involves drilling hole 1 based on
>measurement, then the work piece moves up and a pin is inserted in
>hole 1 in order to drill hole 2. The distance between the pin and the
>spotting drill is the distance between all of the holes. My problem
>with this setup is that each hole depends on the accuracy of the
>previous hole. The actual distance between the holes is less important
>than that all holes on all parts line up with each other. With the
>setup I currently have (even though it's evolved quite a bit) the
>individual errors that add up between the holes can really mess things
>up. It would be ok if the errors were random since over that many
>holes this would even out but the errors do not appear that random
>with the end result that between part a and part b there could be a
>good  1/2" difference in the location of the last hole.
>I contemplated life (and a number of other important issues) and
>decided that there is no way that I can drill accurate holes with the
>current (or any other) setup that relies on the previous hole to
>locate the current hole. I also don't want to use another jig to drill
>maybe 10 longer spaced holes and then drill all the in-between holes
>and thus reducing total drift.
>So, it seems the way to go would be to have a multi-stop gauge that
>locates every hole separately with the errors not adding up. The
>obvious way seems to be a pre-drilled gauge (every hole measured
>accurately) and a stop pin moved from each hole to the next as a hole
>is drilled. This is all nice and dandy but when you have a long part,
>the time that it takes to leave the drill press, walk to the end of
>the gauge, move the pin and walk back to the drill press really adds
>up. Somebody in this world must have thought up a nifty way of doing
>this step drilling accurately without having to walk back and forth
>(at a reasonable cost - ie cheap).
>Maybe some of you geniuses out there might have a thought on this. I
>am starting to have a problem seeing the forest cause of all the trees
>...... I have just pondered this waayyyy too long now.
>Thanks for your input and sorry for the looooong post.
>Regards 
>Jens 

You may want to make a couple of small checking gauges to assure hole
positioning.  This consists of nothing more than two dowel pins in a
piece of steel.  The first gauge would have one dowel your finished
hole diameter and a smaller dowel.  This way you can check your hole
positioning before you drill your second hole to size.  Second gauge
would have both dowels same size-(finished hole size).  You will
achieve accuracy within a couple of tenths and eliminate accumulated
error.

Regards,
Kevin



































































































From wwar3@comtch.iea.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:05 EST 1996
Article: 22519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!krel.iea.com!comtch!wwar3
From: wwar3@comtch.iea.com (World Wide Arts Resources)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FREE Art For Sale Index
Date: 28 Jan 1996 05:45:59 GMT
Organization: CompuTech
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4ef2in$8s6@krel.iea.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: comtch.iea.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

ART FOR SALE INDEX
------------------

World Wide Arts Resources would like to announce their FREE International 
Index of artworks for sale.  Come view artworks for sale or put your own 
artworks online and reach thousands of interested viewers & buyers!

Here are the classifications (each one is broken down into Abstract, 
Realistic, Representational & Undefined):

Painting, Photography, Printmaking, Sculpture, Ceramics, Computer Art, 
Drawing, Fiber/Textile Art, Glass Art, Graphics Design, Illustration, 
Installation, Mixed Media, & Other Forms of Art

Please visit http://www.concourse.com/wwar

Thank you.

__________________________________________________
        WORLD WIDE ARTS RESOURCES, CORP.
        e-mail:  wwar@coil.com
        home page: http://www.concourse.com/wwar/
__________________________________________________



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:05 EST 1996
Article: 22520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!papaya!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: alt.machines.cnc,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High Speed Machining
Followup-To: alt.machines.cnc,sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 28 Jan 1996 06:07:58 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4ef3ru$n5b@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <4eek35$pfv@argentina.it.earthlink.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@papaya.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.machines.cnc:19 sci.engr.manufacturing:10172 rec.crafts.metalworking:22520

Leonard Dye (xltool@earthlink.net) wrote:
: I'm interested in learning more about HSM. Can anyone lead me to 
: publications on the subject?  Are you experienced with HSM applications? 

I just checked a book out from the library a few weeks ago on this subject.
it was quite enlightening.  They were talking about removing 600 in^3 / hr
with a 75000 RPM tool (3/4" or less, I think) running up to 75 HP on the
spindle!  Well, I'm not going to be doing that on my WW-II bridgeport.

I can look up the book title if you are interested.  It was a fairly old
book, however, perhaps 15 years old.  It does go over tool materials and
coolant issues.  Some tools and workpiece materials are run without coolant,
the hot tool melts its way through the work!

HSM is definitely NOT limited to milling.  You can do turning at high speeds
as well.  I don't think shaping is likely to be done at these speeds, 
however.  It is probably limited to rotary motions of either tool or 
workpiece.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:06 EST 1996
Article: 22521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!papaya!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to run a vertical milling machine?
Date: 28 Jan 1996 06:12:29 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4ef44d$n5b@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <310B0AA4.1030@acpub.duke.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@papaya.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Martha Adams (mbadams@acpub.duke.edu) wrote:
: Does anyone out there know if there is a good book on how to operate a 
: verticle mill?  There are plenty of books on lathes, but I can't find one 
: on mills. I have questions on cutting depths, feeds, speeds and the 
: different types of cutters available.  Any help would be appreciated.
: Richard Adams

Many of the RPM <=> surface speed conversions, and optimum surface speed
for various materials are the same, whether turning or milling.  The 
difference is defined as turning means the work rotates, milling means the
tool rotates.  Any general metal working book would cover both types of
work (as well as shaping, where NOTHING rotates).
A very good guide to cutters is a catalog from MSC, Enco, KBC or the like.
A book more than 10 years old may get you all worked up to buy the 'perfect
tool' for some project, only to find that nobody makes it anymore.


From brent@aloha.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:07 EST 1996
Article: 22522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brent@aloha.net (Brent K. Osterstock)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Technara or Volstro 90 deg. milling heads
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 11:08:39 GMT
Organization: Hawaii OnLine - Honolulu, HI
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I need to buy four Cat. 40 taper 90 degree milling heads.  I would prefer 
Technara because of its higher speed capability, but will consider any brand.

Reply to brent@aloha.net


From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:08 EST 1996
Article: 22523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 07:02:53 GMT
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Kevin, thanks for the input but I am having trouble understanding what
you mean. The holes I need to drill, lets say 75 in stock 'a' and 75
in stock 'b' need to be accurate between 'a' and 'b' but spacing
between hole 1 and hole 2 on stock 'a' could be out without any real
consequence as long as spacing between hole 1 and 2 on stock 'b' is
out by the same distance. The major concern beyond that is time taken
to drill since this is a production situation. I do not have time to
measure each hole before I drill it. It needs to be a fluid motion
drill,move stock, drill etc.
How would the gauges work in that sort of situation. Also, how would
accumulated error be eliminated because you are still referring to a
previously drilled hole. So even if you are out by 0.005" per hole
(this being about the best possible accuracy from a drill press to my
understanding) there is a potential discrepancy of + - 0.375" or in
the worst case hole number 75 on stock 'a' could be off by 0.75" from
the 75th hole on stock 'b'.
Could you pleas elaborate.
Thanks
Jens

kevinr3@ix.netcom.com(Kevin Richardson ) wrote:
>You may want to make a couple of small checking gauges to assure hole
>positioning.  This consists of nothing more than two dowel pins in a
>piece of steel.  The first gauge would have one dowel your finished
>hole diameter and a smaller dowel.  This way you can check your hole
>positioning before you drill your second hole to size.  Second gauge
>would have both dowels same size-(finished hole size).  You will
>achieve accuracy within a couple of tenths and eliminate accumulated
>error.
>
>Regards,
>Kevin
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From osan@hansel.mt.att.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:08 EST 1996
Article: 22524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!gw2.att.com!nntphub.cb.att.com!not-for-mail
From: osan@hansel.mt.att.com (Demon Buddha)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Of Wood on Metal Lathes
Date: 26 Jan 1996 04:13:41 GMT
Organization: Eventide Forge
Lines: 17
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NNTP-Posting-Host: hansel.mt.att.com

Robert Galloway <rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu> wrote:
>
>I can't recommend the metal lathe as the ideal
>woodturning instrument but I can't see where it's hurt the lathe.

	It is if you need to turn precision wood pieces for patterns.
	
	About the only place it fails in comparison to a wood lathe	
	is when you want to turn large bowls, and even then they're
	fine if you have enough swing, though I'm sure a 30x?? lathe
	is probably a bit much for most shops :).	

	-Andy V.
-- 
	"I have a high art; I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me."

			-Archilocus, 650 BCE


From fishguy@telerama.lm.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:09 EST 1996
Article: 22525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newsfeed.pitt.edu!hudson.lm.com!ganesh.lm.com!not-for-mail
From: fishguy@telerama.lm.com (The Fishguy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum Question
Date: 25 Jan 1996 22:06:53 -0500
Organization: Telerama Public Access Internet, Pittsburgh, PA
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Hi, I work in a small plant that presses letters and logos out of
several metals. Our major product for many years has been porcelan 
enamel on steel. if you see the Good / Year logo bolted to a wall, we 
probably did it. Anyway, we are working on moving more into the other 
metals; brass, copper, stainless, and aluminum. We can make a quality 
aluminum letter for nearly as cheap as plastic. The problem is that we 
are having trouble attaching fasteners to the finished letter. Our cash 
flow is nowhere near healthy enough to buy a new spot welder that would 
handle the job. Does anyone know of a quick and relitively easy way to 
weld or otherwise connect two pieces of aluminum?			

				Dave Haun  
				Grinding and Pickling
				Walbridge Corp.



From edresden@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:10 EST 1996
Article: 22526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: edresden@aol.com (Edresden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Retired Jeweler Lists on my FTP Site
Date: 25 Jan 1996 21:58:28 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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If you have had any problems accessing my FTP site to get my lists, try
using your Web Browser and this URL:

ftp://ftp.best.com/pub/tboss

If you still have problems just email me at Edresden@aol.com and I'll
email them to you.

Thank you.

Earl (Earl D. Dresden)
Edresden@aol.com


From osan@hansel.mt.att.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:11 EST 1996
Article: 22527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!nntphub.cb.att.com!not-for-mail
From: osan@hansel.mt.att.com (Demon Buddha)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 26 Jan 1996 04:34:57 GMT
Organization: Eventide Forge
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NNTP-Posting-Host: hansel.mt.att.com

Brian Meek <alberic@access4.digex.net> wrote:

>I seem to remember that there's some sort of attachment that can ride on 
>the compound rest of an engine lathe, but I can't remember what it looks 
>like, or where to get one.  I have a 1920's vintage book on lathe jigs 
>that shows one way to do it, but it requires extensive hardware 
>modification to the lathe apron.  (Extra drive gears & shafting.)
>I'd really rather not start drilling big holes in my lathe if I can avoid it.
>(not to mention adding extra gears and whatnot.)

	Holdridge, Shaplane, and Dorian make fixtures for turning 
	precise spherical parts.

	Shaplane run $186.94 to $203.14, 1 5/8 or 2 1/2 capacity.
	Holdridge setups run from $505 to $2080, depending upon
	capacity.  Dorian from $1080 to $2580.  These are MSC
	prices.  Call MSC for further info (800) 645-7270.

	They don't require any modification to the lathe.

	-Andy V.
-- 
	"I have a high art; I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me."

			-Archilocus, 650 BCE


From wmayes@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:11 EST 1996
Article: 22528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: wmayes@aol.com (WMAYES)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: My name is Laura.
Date: 26 Jan 1996 18:39:36 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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     I think I know her mother.

W Mayes


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:12 EST 1996
Article: 22529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: RE: alt. machines.cnc
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 13:49:30 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
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In article <jerilyn.421.01339F14@primenet.com> jerilyn@primenet.com (Jerilyn McLaren) writes:
>From: jerilyn@primenet.com (Jerilyn McLaren)
>Subject: RE: alt. machines.cnc
>Date: 25 Jan 1996 14:10:02 -0700

>In article <4e75vg$jnd@lal.interserv.net> morton@interserv.com writes:
>>From: morton@interserv.com
>>Subject: alt.cnc.machines
>>Date: 25 Jan 1996 05:54:56 GMT

>>I can't find it, Jerry.  If it's up, will you confirm to me by e-mail? 
>>morton@interserv.com

>Actually, it is alt.machines.cnc and it really is up, I check it every day and 
>Mine is the only post on it so far...
>Regards,
>Jerilyn   

I've check everyday and still can't access it. Oh-well!
Dan


From mac@adra.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:13 EST 1996
Article: 22530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!adragate.adra.com!usenet
From: mac <mac@adra.com>
Subject: Re: ?? Dave Gingery books ??
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gdgoen19@eos.eos.net (Glen Glenngoens) wrote:
>Is anyone familiar with the books wirtten by Dave Gingery on building
>basic machine tools??

Yes, I have them all, both his and those from his son Vince .

> Are they still availables from Lindsey publications ??

Yes, see the metal working FAQ for contact info, although Linsay is present on the 
net he may see your post.

>Do these books present enough details for a relative beginner ??
>Are the designs practical for light work/learning the ropes ??
>I'm mainly interested in the books on lathes and accessories.

They do, IMHO.

>
>Thanks
>
>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net
>
>(sorry, head cold, can't type tonight)
>
>


-- 
Mac
Homebrewer and tinker by choice, Computer geek by trade.




From osgcar@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:14 EST 1996
Article: 22531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: osgcar@aol.com (Osgcar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning Ivory on a Lathe
Date: 28 Jan 1996 09:35:36 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Any tips re cutting tools for turning ivory ? speeds? tips?

Be very carful with turning that material. Breathing that dust is harmful
and could cause a condition called Ivory anthrax. 
I don't have any practical hint on turning however
Sorry .


From xsf@connecntnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:14 EST 1996
Article: 22532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.connectnet.com!usenet
From: xsf@connecntnet.com (Craig Earls)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: alt.cnc.machines
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 15:08:20 GMT
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morton@interserv.com wrote:

>I can't find it, Jerry.  If it's up, will you confirm to me by e-mail?  morton@interserv.com

Please remember that 'alt' groups are not carried
by every internet serviec provider. My provider is

carrying alt.machines.cnc but yours might not.
This morning there was one posting.
E-mail your Internet service provider and ask them
to carry it.

Craig Earls



From bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:44:15 EST 1996
Article: 22533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!demon!bobunitt.demon.co.uk!bob
From: Bob Unitt <bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 14:10:33 +0000
Organization: Nowhere in particular...
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 <4ed0bq$n9b@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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In article <4ed0bq$n9b@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Rrice2 <rrice2@aol.com>
writes
<SNIP>
>there is interest, I will try to draw one up and post to Metal Web News.
                                                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I seem to have missed that - what's the URL, please ?

-- 
Bob Unitt


From mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org Mon Jan 29 10:44:16 EST 1996
Article: 22534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet
From: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS Blacksmiths Tools
Date: 28 Jan 1996 16:04:47 GMT
Organization: University of Michigan
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Power Hammers, Anvils, Post Vices, Forges,Tongs.
All in great shape

Call RON BISHOP at (313) 483-5909  USA


From goldstar@nwlink.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:17 EST 1996
Article: 22535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwlink.com!port38
From: goldstar@nwlink.com (Bob Bickers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning Ivory on a Lathe
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 13:45:16 GMT
Organization: Northwest Link
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In article <4edk83$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>,
   cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing Larry) wrote:
>
>Any tips re cutting tools for turning ivory ? speeds? tips?
>
>(no flames, i am talking of scrap ivory from junk stalls )
>
I read somewhere that ivory can hold anthrax in it and carving will release 
same. Urbam myth or truth, don't know?.


From jandrews@fohnix.metronet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:17 EST 1996
Article: 22536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!feenix.metronet.com!fohnix.metronet.com!not-for-mail
From: jandrews@fohnix.metronet.com (Jerry Andrews)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on Chain Mail?
Date: 28 Jan 1996 10:45:37 -0600
Organization: Texas Metronet, Inc  (login info (214/488-2590 - 817/571-0400))
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4eg97h$5r1@fohnix.metronet.com>
References: <mjb27-1101961955580001@b61929.student.cwru.edu> <4e0kd0$j75@pippin.globalnet.co.uk> <4e7064$irp@ddi2.digital.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: fohnix.metronet.com

In article <4e7064$irp@ddi2.digital.net>, foulkj  < > wrote:
>I've been making chain mail for a few years.  I use 16ga. galvinazed 
>wire 10# for $10 at my local hardware store (Ace).  I have made over 400 
>pounds of it, into every piece of human apparel I can think of.  If you 
>would like an artical on it please reply by e-mail.  The best source for 
>small linked chain is "Whiting & davis" in Plainville mass.  Your local 
>souce could be your local chapter of the Society for Creative 
>Anacrachism (rec.org.sca)?.
>I hope that this helps.
>Jeff

     Well, I'd reply by EMail (EChainMail?) but your address got erased 
by the time I got ahold of the message.  I'd love to get ahold of your 
article.  I've been doing chainmail for years now and would like to 
correspond with anyone else who weaves it, to chat about methods, 
materials, etc.  I'm also getting started on making scale/plate from 
sheets of flat rolled steel.
      Anyone interested in BSing about mail, drop me a line.

     Oh, for the record, I use 16gauge glavanized wire, with a 
5/16" I.D., and butted.  It's heavy, but strong and looks good.

=======================================================================
      DISCLAIMER: any opinions expressed above do not represent any
organization I work for, am associated with, or hang around with just
to waste time.  My opinions originate with little blue aliens from 
Alpha Ceti IV speaking through tiny radios implanted in my fillings.
Messages to them can be relayed through me at: jandrews@metronet.com




From wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:44:18 EST 1996
Article: 22537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!fdos.demon.co.uk
From: wayne weedon <wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tom Senior Ltd
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 16:28:40 GMT
Organization: Fdos Design
Lines: 16
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <822846520snz@fdos.demon.co.uk>
References: <internews469300CB72@argonet.co.uk>
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In article <internews469300CB72@argonet.co.uk> faz@argonet.co.uk  writes:

> This is one for our British readers, as they say.
> 
> Can anyone supply a phone number for Tom Senior Ltd? The only number I have
> (Liversedge) is no longer correct. 
> 
> They may have been taken over in recent years, but by who?

 Well I just tried our Electronic yelloow pages for you and it came up
with nothing.  So they may have gone out of business.  Sorry if this is
the case.
                        Wayne...
-- 
wayne weedon


From wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:44:19 EST 1996
Article: 22538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!fdos.demon.co.uk
From: wayne weedon <wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 17:11:39 GMT
Organization: Fdos Design
Lines: 31
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References: <9601091810.AA40515@128.194.179.45> <30F556FF.19A0@euphonix.com> <4diock$2m3@news.imssys.com> <4e1vdh$osu@newsreader.wustl.edu> <822427616.26740@mellie.demon.co.uk>
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In article <822427616.26740@mellie.demon.co.uk>
           rmawby@mellie.demon.co.uk "Roger Mawby" writes:

> I am a UK Model Engineer currently building a 3 1/2" (Scale 3/4" to
> 1ft) 0-6-0 tank engine on a faily worn out Boxford lathe, which I
> believe is very similar to a Southbend.
>  Anyway, I am interested in re-building the lathe and intend to
> re-scrape the ways using the methods set out in the book "Machine Tool
> Reconditioning".
> I assume it to be the same book referred to in these articles (mine is
> authored by Edward F.Connelly).
> I have quite severe wear on the rear inverted V-way around the middle
> of the bed, in the region where the saddle spends most of its time!. 
> Have you reconditioned any lathe ways yourself ? and/or what do you
> believe would be a practical amount to scrape off in preference to say
> having the slideways ground? . I have made some measurements and
> believe I would need to take the ways down at least 0.020" - Is this a
> practical to scrape this amount ? 

 I don't know where you are, but if you are in the South you might like to
consider Machine Tool Services in Poole.  They specialise remachining
machine tools from the smallest lathe to full size industrial units.

 A friend has just had his Brigdeport turret mill reground and hand scraped
and it was a very nice job.

                        Wayne...

-- 
wayne weedon


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:20 EST 1996
Article: 22539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to run a vertical milling machine?
Date: 28 Jan 1996 12:59:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <4efrvc$9df@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <310B0AA4.1030@acpub.duke.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-ren-nv1-10.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jan 28  4:59:24 AM PST 1996

In <310B0AA4.1030@acpub.duke.edu> Martha Adams <mbadams@acpub.duke.edu>
writes: 
>
>Does anyone out there know if there is a good book on how to operate a

>verticle mill?  There are plenty of books on lathes, but I can't find
one 
>on mills. I have questions on cutting depths, feeds, speeds and the 
>different types of cutters available.  Any help would be appreciated.
>Richard Adams

Richard - 

You'd think there would be books out there somewhere that would qualify
as "how to" type texts, and I'm sure there are, but (now that someone
has asked) I really can't think of one.  There are a number of sources
however for speed and feed data.

Machinery's Handbook (Industrial Press)
Hardly a tutorial with respect to how to run a vertical mill, it does
contain a lot of speed and feed data for nearly any machining
operation.  It can be a little tedious to wade through the massive
amount of detailed information it contains and it presumes a quite a
bit of the reader sometimes.  The data is there though.

Most of the manufacturers of indexable carbide tools/inserts have
catalogs containing speed and feed data pertaining to their products. 
Any industrial supply house carrying the tooling can provide you with
these.  I would offer a few words of caution here however; (1) the
recommendations contained in these catalogs are specific to the inserts
contained in same, and (2) I find these recommendations to be at least
a little optimistic sometimes, particularly for a manual mill.  If
you're just starting out, I'd suggest waiting a bit before you get
into carbide tooling anyway, carbide tools can be downright picky about
what they eat and how they eat it, they're not very forgiving, and they
are expensive.

Now that you've waded through all the discouraging stuff above, here's
the best part.  Sossner, a manufacturer of (primarily) HSS cutting
tools, makes the handiest little slide rule type speed/feed calculator
I've seen.  It will give you suggested depth of cut, spindle speed, and
feed rate based on end mill diameter, material, and type of cut (i.e.,
roughing/finishing, side/slot milling).  The doggone thing is just
downright spiffy AND it's free.  If you have a nearby industrial supply
that carries Sossner (I think most do), he can probably give you one of
these or get it for you.  I will e-mail you Sossner's part no. for this
little marvel from the shop tomorrow (Sun.), as well as Sossner's phone
no. in case you want to deal with them directly.  For whatever it's
worth, I use the spindle speed and depth of cut data as given by the
calculator and multiply the feed rate by 0.75 for an initial test run. 
Based on the results of that, I then (usually) increase feed rate
somewhat.

While I'm not trying to write a tutorial myself here, I will suggest
that the actual speeds and feeds that will work best for you are very
often highly dependent on the machine you're using (ridgidity,
condition, etc.), coolant type and quantity, and, as important as
anything else, what you're comfortable with.  The last point is most
easily understood after one becomes intimately familiar with the Law of
Selective Gravitation (i.e., the first hot chips find their way down
your shirt collar).

Regards, Dale



From ernieleim@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:21 EST 1996
Article: 22540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Hardware Search
Date: 27 Jan 1996 05:16:56 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 15
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4ecu2o$loc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4eat3i$29a@redwood.northcoast.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

Tacom Screw Products has about a dozen stores and carries a broad range of
stainless hardware to supply the boat building and repair trades. They are
based in Tacoma Washington.
@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "All is horse-piss" ---- William Shakespear
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From madmat99@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:21 EST 1996
Article: 22541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: madmat99@aol.com (MadMat99)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass tempers itself??
Date: 27 Jan 1996 05:17:46 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 26
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <koroluk-o-2401961603310001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
Reply-To: madmat99@aol.com (MadMat99)

> Will brass temper by itself with out being worked?  I had some soft
brass
> tube for bending, put it away for a year and now it seems much stiffer. 
> Am I dreaming?

I think you may be.  As the previous poster says, Al alloys can be age
hardened, but even for Al we are talking 200 F or so temperature.  There
are some super-high-tech alloys that are age hardenable at room temp, but
we're talking special aircraft stuff (I think some rivets are done this
way - kept in liquid CO2 and then hammered into place and allowed to warm
and harden).

Yellow brass is not hardenable by heat treating....the Zn does not go into
solution on heating, and thus you can't have the effect that makes other
alloys harden.  I did some work on yellow brass in college and quenching
and treating doesn't do much at all to it.  The only way you harden it is
by working.  You soften by annealing.

Again, there are some very special alloys in the bronze category that are
heat treatable.  But I don't think this is what you have.

IMHO you forgot how stiff it was.  But it doesn't matter, just anneal it
and it will become as soft as it's gonna be.

Regards,
Mat


From madmat99@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:22 EST 1996
Article: 22542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: madmat99@aol.com (MadMat99)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Your Opinions Please...
Date: 27 Jan 1996 05:19:53 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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References: <4dvvth$3t6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: madmat99@aol.com (MadMat99)

Tony Midea wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I am new to this newsgroup, but I am glad I found you guys. My question is
one of purchasing an Enco Lathe (China made). I had purchased this lathe
about a year ago and all seems to be ok with it. I use it in my home shop
(GARAGE) to machine graphite and soft plastic parts. Sometimes aluminum. I
use it about  2-4 hours per month on a part time basis. I guess I am
wodering after the fact if I would have been better off purchasing
something from south bend at about $ 5,000 vs the 1,100 from ENCO. Not
that it matters much now.
I also need to know what can I do to baby this machine to keep it in good
operating condition for as long as possible any preventative maint. tips
you may have would be great!!!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

About your choice.....if you're only cutting soft materials a couple of
hours per month, the Enco may last forever.  You probably would have been
pleased with the South Bend, and I think it might be a little sturdier. 
They aren't legends in the small lathe category for nothing.

My best advice to you is to keep all the sliding ways clean and well
lubricated.  Many of the used South Bends (as well as almost every other
lathe) have their ways worn so badly near the chuck that they turn
barrel-shaped. This is due to sloppy housekeeping and letting all kinds of
shit get ground into the ways.  It's like a lapping process!

I think many of these machines would have been accurate much longer had
the machines come with way covers.  Then there isn't nearly the amount of
wear.  I have a machine with hardened ways that I will install way covers
on and I expect this machine to be tight and accurate for the rest of my
life, at least.  And I'm 26!

Way covers may seem extreme to some, but for extending life the longest,
they can't be beat.

Regards, Mat


From rrice2@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:23 EST 1996
Article: 22543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 27 Jan 1996 05:55:54 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In one of Guy Lautard's Machinists Bedside Readers, he gives a method of
ball turning by incremental cuts on the lathe. He also wrote it up in a
Home Shop Machinist article a few yeras back. I have tried it, and it
works just fine. A radius turning fixture is fairly easy to make, too. If
there is interest, I will try to draw one up and post to Metal Web News.


From bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:24 EST 1996
Article: 22544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!bb05282
From: bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: .dxf files
Date: 27 Jan 1996 14:57:37 GMT
Organization: Binghamton University, Binghamton, NY
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4edeh1$fqg@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu>
References: <8B96481.026100337E.uuout@corpsoft.com> <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org> <4ea3j5$n83@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.226.1.20
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Elliot M Burke (elliotb@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: In <Pine.SUN.3.91.960124211805.26611E-100000@noel.pd.org> Jack
: <jack@noel.pd.org> writes: 
: >
: >
: >In a conversation with a fabricator about having some laser cutter
: work
: >done I was told I could save some money by providing .dxf files of my
: >patterns. Towards that end I was told that cad programs would output
: in
: >dxf. I asked a friend who has autocad release 12 about this and was
: >told that autocad creates .dwg files.
: >
: >Anybody know what program I can use to create .dxf files?

: most CAD programs and many illustration programs can create DXF files. 
: They are intended to be universal (Drawing eXchange Format).  Corel
: Draw works OK and there are some $29 CAD programs remaindered that
: probably would work too.


: Just tell your friend who owns AutoCAD to use the command "DXFOUT". At 
: that time AutoCAD will ask for the name that you want your dxf file to 
: be. Enter the name of your choice & AutoCAD will generate the dxf file 
: for you.


From bfairey@hookup.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:25 EST 1996
Article: 22545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!hookup!nic.ott.hookup.net!noc.tor.hookup.net!nic.wat.hookup.net!news
From: bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: need help w/Gingery Crucible Furnace
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 06:30:35 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4edh2j$a96@nic.wat.hookup.net>
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degroff@netcom.com (21012d) wrote:

>In article <4e58og$ot8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> kc10engnr@aol.com (KC10ENGNR) writes:
>>I'm trying to build the propane powered furnace described in D. Gingery's
>>book titled "Crucible Furnace". What I need to basically is how to
>>determine how much propane to pump through the furnace to melt some
>>aluminum (1.5-2lbs).I need to determine how much propane in terms of
>>BTU/hr so I can purchase the correct sized regulator. Anybody with any
>>ideas or suggestions please let me know... Thanks

> I can suggest a book on Kiln building and designs by Olsen for
>some of the calculations  but I still had problems getting 
>a regulator, I ended up buying one with less than full specifications
>from a place speciallizing in Kilns and not using a much cheaper
>one I had bought along with my tank.   
>    If your general goal is going to be melting "only" a couple 
>lbs of aluminum, the Gingery's furnace is probably over kill, a 
>smaller one could probably be done simply using the very common
>and relativly inexpensive barbaque grill tanks and regulators. 
>  I never did get clear, in several weeks of trying some of the
>subtle differences in regulators.  Note that the burner design is
>pretty forgiving as is the usage, once you get your chamber heated
>up, you are not likly to have a flame out.  (but worry about it
>anyway and plan shutoffs with safty in mind, and consider the
>solonoid shut off.)

Interestingly I built a furnace using a stove top element and control.
The insulation was fibre wool and I was able to melt 3lbs alum
in a graphite crucible.
Brian.



From ranson@sunbelt.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:26 EST 1996
Article: 22546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news1.sunbelt.net!dial-1
From: ranson@sunbelt.net (Ranson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Place to Showcase Your Art!
Date: 27 Jan 1996 15:35:30 GMT
Organization: SunBelt.Net INTERNET Access
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The Place to Showcase Your Art!

The aArtvark Network showcases your work in the aArtvark Catalog.
A co-op of Artists working together to promote our work.
The catalog is advertised extensivily, on the net and in art craft magizines.
Check us out at:  http://www.aartvark.com/av
Artist info is at :   http://www.aartvark.com/av/av.html
You can call Ranson or Jim at 615-536-5467 or 615-563-8060
email ranson@sunbelt.net


From jrl@versaform.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:27 EST 1996
Article: 22547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!sdd.hp.com!news1.best.com!shellx.best.com!jrl
From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Poor man's psychiatrically-approved surface milling?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 19:00:48 GMT
Organization: Applied Software Technology
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Message-ID: <4egh50$154_001@nntp.best.com>
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>In article <4dkrsc$9qc@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>, 
dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson) writes:
>|>    I have a trouble:  I've recently acquired some silicon bronze
>|>    castings for some woodworking hand planes.  These castings are
>|>    rough, they are really, _really_ rough.  Upon unwrapping them
>|>    from the shipping container, sand fell out. :-)  I want to turn
>|>    them into what God intended, which is a finished unit.
>|> 
>|>    Well...  so much for the short end,...  I'm just a woodworker,
>|>    albeit an obsessed one.  The issue is, surface preparation on
>|>    these beasts.  I'll tell you what I have:  a belt sander, which
>|>    would in my estimation, and trial experiments, be pretty capable
>|>    of finishing off the preparation of the outside ( "convex" )
>|>    surfaces readily, to the point where only trivial lapping with 
s/c
>|>    on the plate would more be needed.
>|> 
>|>    The thing that perplexes me is, the interior ( "concave" ) 
surfaces.
>|>    That is, to be precise, think of a slipper that you'd wear out of
>|>    the bed in the a.m..  Now think of it made out of very rough 
>|>    silicon bronze casting.  You want to square off, or smoothe out,
>|>    or render "dimensionally simple", the inside of it.  With tools
>|>    that a woodworker might have laying about, what would be the 
least
>|>    boneheaded way of doing that?
>|> 
>|>    In my case, what I have that might be suitable, is a heavy duty
>|>    1/2" electric drill.  Maybe I'm dreaming, but on our Earth might
>|>    there remotely be some attatchment that one could chuck in a 
drill
>|>    like that, that might have half a chance of getting me where I
>|>    wanna go?

Maybe an end mill in a drill press.  Main problem is that the thrust is 
radial, not axial.  I've seen descriptions of setups where the quill was 
braced to take the thrust.  The chuck can work loose if it isn't screwed 
 on--if it's only held by the axial thrust on the taper.  And the drill 
press probably runs too fast.  On the other hand, maybe it'll work, and 
end mills aren't dear.

--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:44:27 EST 1996
Article: 22548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!demon!sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 16:52:25 GMT
Organization: home
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   Brian does't mention the diameter of his punches but for sizes up to
an inch, either of those two lathes should be able to cope with a form
tool.  Soften an old file and bore to required diameter, setting top slide
to 5 degs to turn clearance on what will become the front of the tool.
   A round nosed tool will give something approximating to a rake angle
on the 'top' surface.   Saw and file to shape before hardening and 
tempering to light straw.  Use upside down from the back and set to exact
centre height.  Run at lowest speed.
   It worked fine for 9 off 3/4" ball handles for my Quorn. 

  -- 
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"
  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk


From pdevey@ftn.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:29 EST 1996
Article: 22549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!istar.net!news1.toronto.fonorola.net!news1.toronto.istar.net!news.toronto.istar.net!ftn.net!news
From: Paul Devey <pdevey@ftn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Milling Machine Power Feed
Date: 27 Jan 1996 04:05:33 GMT
Organization: ftn Internet
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rebeccas@fay.infi.net (Rebecca Schwitters) wrote:
>

> I can seldom access this group so please e-mail any comments to me at 
> schwittj@carlisle-emh2.army.mil
> Thanks, Jim Schwitters
> 

Try using a motor from a battery powered screwdriver. Projects In 
Metal or Home Shot Machinist have had articles on this very subject. 
Probably aimed a smaller mills.

Paul Devey



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:29 EST 1996
Article: 22550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Message-ID: <1996Jan27.084824.766@flying-disk.com>
Date: 27 Jan 96 08:48:24 PST
References: <122303Z26011996@anon.penet.fi> <TJNYE.1418.000D0489@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 30

In article <TJNYE.1418.000D0489@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>, 
TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca (Tim Nye) writes:

> And let's not forget the abusive phone calls Alan Frisbie got 

Please, let's not overstate this.   The caller was rude and
abrasive, but not abusive.   He simply refused (rudely) to
believe me when I told him that hand scraping could make a
flatter surface than most machining processes.   He also
dismissed my suggestions that he read some of the recommended
books that discuss the subject (Connelly & Gingery to name
two).

By the second call he had evidently changed his mind, and
asked where he could get Connelly's book.   However, he was
quite put out when I told him that there was no 800 number
he could order it from instantly.   He seemed to be
accusing me of something wrong by referring him to someone
who didn't want to publish his phone number.

I have no evidence that he was in any way connected to
the people who have made these irritating postings, but
I suspect it because of the attitudes expressed.   Perhaps
it is a sign of getting old(er), but I don't have much
respect for the "instant gratification" or "gimme, gimme, gimme"
type of people.   Even less for those for who stoop to
gratuitous insults in their postings.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.


From jlovallo@mixcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:30 EST 1996
Article: 22551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Blue and metal protection
Date: 27 Jan 1996 18:40:08 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

Dig out Brownells telephone number from the FAQ and give them a call.  
They sell everything by mail order, not thru distribution.

John Lovallo



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:31 EST 1996
Article: 22552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating thickness
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 19:15:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Message-ID: <4eds4h$s2m@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <31072792.486384877@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: irv-ca7-17.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27 10:49:54 AM PST 1996
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>Anybody have any idea what normal coating thickness is for epoxy
>powder coat ?

My business uses powder coating that is done by outside painting
businesses.  The thickness that we demand is about 0.004".  I have
moved my business from one vendor who was unresponsive about coating
thickness and overspray.  

My new vendor is much more careful about the application.  Perhaps he
is just more skillful.  But even with the new vendor, we get an
occasional part that is coated too heavily and another part that is
coated to lightly.  I believe that this is going to be the norm for
any hand application of powder paint.  

There are mechanized procedures that will provide a very consistant
application, but such a system requires considerable setup for your
parts, and is generally used for high volume commercial applications
such as door lockset clear coating. (Millions of units)

What I can recommend is to talk to your vendor.  I built special
painting fixtures that protect areas where paint buildup is a
particular problem.  The fixtures are used several times, and then the
paint buildup is removed chemically or by burning the coating off.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:32 EST 1996
Article: 22553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Date: 27 Jan 1996 18:53:24 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4edsb4$5s8@homer.alpha.net>
References: <122303Z26011996@anon.penet.fi>
NNTP-Posting-Host: iikkii.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

lbliao has done the same thing in sci.electronics newsgroups...   I just ignore his posts from now on.
If everyone does that he will dry up and blow away.  His postings are representative of the typical 
gimme, gimme attitude that have destroyed many newsgroups.  Don't let that happen here, just ignore
him

John Lovallo



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:32 EST 1996
Article: 22554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: welders
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 19:22:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4edsie$s2m@reader2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <31072792.486384877@news.islandnet.com> <4eavgu$lon@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: irv-ca7-17.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27 10:57:18 AM PST 1996
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

shepard@leger.hlo.dec.com (Dave Shepard) wrote:


>

>ESOP welder (made in Sweden, sold in US by National Cylinder)
>    uses 3-phase power, 300 amp, push-pull gun : $1200

Is the name ESOP or is it ESAB.  I have used the latter.



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:33 EST 1996
Article: 22555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electric die grinder recommendations?
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 19:30:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4edt16$639@ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4ebgg1$rqd@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: irv-ca7-17.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jan 27 11:05:10 AM PST 1996
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

dawson@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Doug Dawson) wrote:

>   I was wondering if anyone had any solid recommendations for 
>   electric die grinders.  ( It's been pointed out to me that
>   the air-powered units are nice, but getting a compressor big
>   enough to power one is impractical for me, both financially and

I run a business where the guys in the shop use Dumore grinders day in
and day out.  We have had very good luck with them.  Some of them are
set up with collet chucks, and others are set up with Jacobs chucks.
While I personally prefer the collets, there is room for friendly
debate on this issue.  The series 10 units are about $250 or so.

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:34 EST 1996
Article: 22556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source for small qty metal buys
Date: 27 Jan 1996 19:15:05 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4edtjp$5s8@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: iikkii.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

I keep seeing people asking "where can I buy a small qty of xxxx metal". I don't think this
one is in the FAQ, but it should be!  Try Metal Buyers Mart  1-800-657-0721.  They 
specialize in small qty cut lots of nearly all metals  i.e. steels,aluminum,copper,bronze,
cast iron barstock,brass etc.Prices are reasonable (unlike most of the national suppliers)
and you should ask if they have any "drops" in the material you want.  You might have to buy 
a little bit more than you wanted, but drops are discounted 50%!  BTW, they do hav leaded 
steels in stock.

Now, lets not have more where do I buy  xxxxx!

John Lovallo



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:35 EST 1996
Article: 22557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.exodus.net!aimnet.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: looking for books on scraping and flaking
Message-ID: <1996Jan28.195325.22719@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <122326Z26011996@anon.penet.fi> <1996Jan26.134953.765@flying-disk.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 19:53:25 GMT
Lines: 33

In article <1996Jan26.134953.765@flying-disk.com>,
Alan Frisbie <frisbie@flying-disk.com> wrote:
>Given that, I think it is safe to simply ignore them until they
>demonstrate an honest interest in the actual craft of metalworking,
>and in a pleasant manner.   If we all refuse to reply to 
>impolite postings, we can keep this group as one of the
>shining examples of what Usenet *can* be.

I came to that conclusion about only one poster to date (you can guess
which) and hope that I'll not have to again.

>I am always happy and willing to help anyone (including these
>people) who actually *participates* in this group in a polite,
>socially acceptable manner.   But I am far too busy to help those
>with a "gimme, gimme, gimme" attitude, or who make attacks like
>we have just seen.   Someday they will learn that they can get
>far more by being nice to others than by being obnoxious.

I'm afraid that as long as people like that can find a new group to
victimize they'll always consider themselves a winner.

>I wonder if Mr./Ms. Lbliao ever bothered to read my posting
>about machine tool rebuilding classes?   That would certainly
>have given him/her all the training in hand scraping that
>anyone could ever hope for.

I only wish such a class would be given locally (New Mexico).  I'm
about to start looking for a retired rebuilder to hit with questions.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:35 EST 1996
Article: 22558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.exodus.net!aimnet.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Thank you
Message-ID: <1996Jan28.202359.22979@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4ee8ta$gfu@news.indy.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 20:23:59 GMT
Lines: 26

In article <4ee8ta$gfu@news.indy.net>,
Walter Daniels <fbngraph@indy.net> wrote:
>  I was reading some posts about lack of clarification in posted questions 
>and lack of response/participation. So, I will thrwo in mu $.00002 worth to 
>the discussion. I am not *currently* a metal worker, but I hope to play 
>around with it someday. I enjoy reading this group for the knowledge and 
>experience so freely shared. As a lurker in this group *thank you*.

It's not lurkers, as we all lurk in threads that we're not writing to,
but those that post and request only email responses and never
respond questions about their question.  After a while you decide that
this person isn't really interested in participating at all, but just
wants his or her question answered regardless of how poorly formed it
is.  It's those people to whom folks on this forum are objecting.

But you don't need to be actively working in metal to be able to help
in this group - I've participated in threads where my other experience
(radio control models. particularly helicopters) comes in handy.  If
something pops up that you know something about, or even where to find
out, then hop right in and say so.  That's what these groups are all
about.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:36 EST 1996
Article: 22559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.exodus.net!aimnet.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Carbide hand scrapers
Message-ID: <1996Jan28.203439.23079@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 20:34:39 GMT
Lines: 34

I'm scraping in a machine fitter's straight edge and have come to the
conclusion that I need a better scraper.  I've been able to muddle
along in the past with a carbon steel blade, but this cast iron is a
bit too hard for the CS blade.

I scanned Thomas Register (http://www.thomasregister.com) for "carbide scraper"
and came up with:

A&W Precision (Anderson)

Sandvik Saws & Tools

Basic Carbide (?)

Great Lakes-Eglinton

The first 2 definitely have some of what I want/need, the others maybe
so.  I'll be calling on Monday to see what they all have, but does
anyone have any pointers or other suggestions?  I'd like to keep this
reasonable, that being that the wife doesn't scream when she sees the
bill.

BTW: the fitters straight edge is from the MLA casting.  I finished the
milling yesterday and now have a big chunk of milled iron about 18.5"
(500mm) long by 2.5" (65mm) wide by 2.75" (70mm) high, with 30 degree
and 45 degree edges.  The flats (ha) I'm comfortable scraping in, even
in getting them parallel to one another, but I'm going to have to
review Connelly for the dovetail edges.  Wish me luck and a lot of Lava
soap to remove the cast iron from my hands.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From poleary@mcs.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:37 EST 1996
Article: 22560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!chi-news.cic.net!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!usenet
From: Peter O'Leary <poleary@mcs.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: 28 Jan 1996 22:05:27 GMT
Organization: MCSNet Internet Services
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <4egrv7$7b2@Jupiter.mcs.net>
References: <310ab78f.84717034@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: poleary.pr.mcs.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1PE (Windows; I; 16bit)
To: psh@islandnet.com

psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>My apologies for this very long and verbose post that follows. If you
>are pressed for time you might want to ignore it ... I had to explain
>things though.

Jens, no need to apologize; after all, this stuff is detail oriented, so 
we need the details!

>Hi,
>I am re-hashing and old problem that I had before. 
>I am trying to set up a jig to drill up to 75 holes at equal spacing
>with an exact (within 0.01") match between multiple parts drilled with
>the 75 holes. (hope that explains it).

I think I remember a previous post on this same subject a few months back 
(was it you?)
The challenge you have is much like the problem of advancing a strip of 
material through a progressive die, though you have the additional factor 
of trying to locate from a drilled hole.  The drilled holes vary in size 
and position enough for you to accumulate errors.

Why not try the following?  Make a jig with a top plate having three 
holes, accurately sized and equally spaced.  You would be well off to put 
hardened drill jig bushings in all three holes.  The first hole would be 
for the drill, and the second and third for pilots.  Make the pilot holes 
and the pilots somewhat (1/32") larger and put a shallow taper on the 
ends of the pilots.  This way the pilots will make up for slight 
differences in hole size.  The reason you should use two pilots is that 
they will tend to average out errors in the spacing between the holes.  
If you really want to get fancy, mount the pilot pins in a plate and 
actuate the plate from above with a toggle (de-sta-co style) clamp from 
above to engage the pilots.

Just a thought.
--
Pete O'Leary





From congreve@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:38 EST 1996
Article: 22561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to run a vertical milling machine?
Date: 28 Jan 1996 16:44:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4eg958$gl0@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
References: <310B0AA4.1030@acpub.duke.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bir-al1-11.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jan 28  8:44:24 AM PST 1996

In <310B0AA4.1030@acpub.duke.edu> Martha Adams <mbadams@acpub.duke.edu>
writes: 
>
>Does anyone out there know if there is a good book on how to operate a

>verticle mill?  There are plenty of books on lathes, but I can't find
one 
>on mills. I have questions on cutting depths, feeds, speeds and the 
>different types of cutters available.  Any help would be appreciated.
>Richard Adams


You're right! I've got a whole little stack of lathe books, and the
only milling book I have (and it's good) is "Milling Machine Work,"
part of a "Machine Shop Series" published by Delmar Publishers in
Albany NY in 1953.  It' 8 1/2" x 11" paperback. A lot of the
illustrations are showing horizontal work, but 99% of what you need to
know applies to both, so I do recommend it if you can find a copy.

               Alan Heldman




From gwhite@tiac.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:38 EST 1996
Article: 22562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!wizard.pn.com!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning Ivory on a Lathe
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 22:28:43 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4egt90$2cu@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <4edk83$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk> <4eg1jo$let@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: gwhite.tiac.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4eg1jo$let@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
   osgcar@aol.com (Osgcar) wrote:
<Any tips re cutting tools for turning ivory ? speeds? tips?
<
<Be very carful with turning that material. Breathing that dust is 
harmful
<and could cause a condition called Ivory anthrax. 
<I don't have any practical hint on turning however
<Sorry .

Take very light cuts, and take it slow.  If it becomes warm to the touch, 
it can split.  I turned some a number of years ago, and that's about all 
I remember.

Doug White


From fbngraph@indy.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:39 EST 1996
Article: 22563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.indy.net!ip87
From: fbngraph@indy.net (Walter Daniels)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thank you
Date: 27 Jan 1996 22:27:54 GMT
Organization: IndyNet - Indys Internet Gateway
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4ee8ta$gfu@news.indy.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip87.slip.indy.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3

  I was reading some posts about lack of clarification in posted questions 
and lack of response/participation. So, I will thrwo in mu $.00002 worth to 
the discussion. I am not *currently* a metal worker, but I hope to play 
around with it someday. I enjoy reading this group for the knowledge and 
experience so freely shared. As a lurker in this group *thank you*.

Walter Daniels FBN Group (WWW page coming "RRSN")
custom graphical designs on coffee/tea mugs in small quantities.


From robinsod@canidae.cps.msu.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:42 EST 1996
Article: 22564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!msunews!canidae.cps.msu.edu!robinsod
From: robinsod@canidae.cps.msu.edu (David Robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Unimat-3 questions (follow-up)
Date: 27 Jan 1996 23:07:50 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Michigan State University
Lines: 47
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4eeb86$1i6p@msunews.cl.msu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: canidae.cps.msu.edu
Originator: robinsod@canidae.cps.msu.edu

Thanks to all those who responded to my previous Unimat-3 questions.

Based partly on your advice, I've ordered the EMCO vertical milling
setup and the P.M. Research #3 steam engine kit.  The steam engine is on
back order, which is probably just as well; I had better have more
practice before attacking it.

For now, I plan to build a tailstock die holder as suggested by one
respondent.  Also, perhaps the "round the corner" toolpost described
in Tingey's Unimat book.  This nifty item allows the outside surface of
large, thin items (eg, a flywheel) to be reached with an ordinary
cutting tool bit.

Now, if I may, I would like to ask two new questions that have come up.
I certainly appreciate that people have taken the time to respond to my
previous post.

I ordered the milling table, but I would like to get a small vice.  The
tiny one offered by EMCO is $62, which seems very high.  It would seem
better to mount the vice directly to the cross slide w/o the milling
table - this is how the EMCO vice mounts - but the cross slide is only
about 2" wide with a single T-slot parallel to the lathe beds.  I've
looked at vices in catalogs (eg, Palmgren) that seem pretty nice, and
are about half the cost of the EMCO.  The problem is that I can't tell
if these will mount to my cross slide.  Unless the vice is very narrow,
I would have to put countersunk bolts through the main part of the vice
(between the jaws), rather than through protruding mounting ears.  Any
advice (no pun intended) on small vices that can be mounted "through the
middle?"

Does anyone have the original owner's manual for the Unimat-3?
Strangely enough, mine came with a Unimat-SL manual.  EMCO offers
something titled "Operating and Spare Parts Manual" for $14.  Is this
manual worth while?

Once again, thanks for your help!

========================================================
Dave Robinson
Quincy University
1800 College Ave.
Quincy, IL 62301

robinda@quincy.edu
(217) 228-5496
========================================================



From edalton@pen.k12.va.us Mon Jan 29 10:44:42 EST 1996
Article: 22565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!pen.k12.va.us!edalton
From: edalton@pen.k12.va.us (Eric W. Dalton Jr)
Subject: Re: Unimat-3 questions (follow-up)
Message-ID: <DLx06A.2KpC@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 23:34:57 GMT
References: <4eeb86$1i6p@msunews.cl.msu.edu>
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 7

I have edelstaal" Miniature Machining Techniques" a general
handbook and operators manual. copyright 1971.  If this is what
you need let me know,

---
Eric W. Dalton Jr. Science Department  Fauquier High School 
705 Waterloo Road   Warrenton Va. 22186   540 364 6100


From dale@bmi.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:43 EST 1996
Article: 22566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!news.bmi.net!news
From: "D. Hall" <dale@bmi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Running 3 phase motor on 2 phase
Date: 28 Jan 1996 03:20:24 GMT
Organization: Blue Mountain Internet
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4eeq1o$3tf@bigjohn.bmi.net>
References: <4e9c8f$6jg@cloner2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: annex-110.bmi.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)
To: esaville@ix.netcom.com

Stay away from that 2-phase stuff, It'll bite you in the ass. All you need the third leg
for is to start the motor, it runs on single phase. Put a small 3-Phase motor in line to
the motor you want to run. Start it by hand(rotation) hit it with juice, it will excite
the third leg so you can start what you wanted to run.

Dale



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:44 EST 1996
Article: 22567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!gwen.pcug.co.uk!kate.ibmpcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <150@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <4e9ggd$f53@ganesh.lm.com>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 11:47:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Question
Lines: 35

 
In article <4e9ggd$f53@ganesh.lm.com>, The Fishguy (fishguy@telerama.lm.com) writes:
< deletia >
 Does anyone know of a quick and relitively easy way to 
>weld or otherwise connect two pieces of aluminum?                      
>
>                               Dave Haun  

This is something for the FAQ (if it isn't there already).  This
has been talked about at some length lately - and I'm not having a
go at you, Dave, for asking again!

In the UK there is something called "Technoweld", which is a form
of "solder" for aluminium.  I'm sure that the same is available in
the USA, perhaps with a different name. I used the word solder with
care, because it's on a fine line between soldering and welding. 

The only extra equipment needed to stick two pieces of al. together
are a stainless steel wire brush, a stainless steel scratcher (a
wire in a stick) and a propane torch. After an enthusiastic cleaning
and brushing, the al. is heated while the stick of solder is moved
around on top. After a little while the solder will wet the
surface.  Do the same to the other piece. Hold the two pieces
together and heat, perhaps adding a little extra solder, using the
scratch stick to "encourage" it. 

The solder works at a temerature well below the melting point of the
al., although you still have to be careful.

It's really that easy!  I saw this at a local welding supplier's
show, and had a go - first attempt I welded one piece of 1/16" al.
to another, and later mangled the metal completely, without
damaging the joint in any way.

 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From jrl@versaform.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:44 EST 1996
Article: 22568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to cut a rack?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 19:21:29 GMT
Organization: Applied Software Technology
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I have an old machine (a Barnes lathe) with a carriage rack with some broken
teeth.  I thought I'd make a new one on my vertical mill, but looking in MSC I 
see no end mills for cutting gear teeth, only horizontal cutters.  

Any suggestions?  sources?  make an end mill with the right form?  Sounds 
hard.  Also, can anyone suggest a good way to identify the pressure angle?  

--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From jrl@versaform.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:45 EST 1996
Article: 22569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: filler for painting a casting?
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 19:24:12 GMT
Organization: Applied Software Technology
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Can anyone suggest a filler to smooth the rough surface of a sand casting 
before painting?  Bondo works, but it's overkill. Something that would flow on 
with a brush would be a whole lot easier.  

--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From pdrumm@wis.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:46 EST 1996
Article: 22570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.mci.newscorp.com!usenet
From: pdrumm@wis.com (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating thickness
Date: 29 Jan 1996 02:16:48 GMT
Organization: News Corp./MCI Online Ventures
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4ehamg$a28@merlin.delphi.com>
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In message <310ab454.83890028@news.islandnet.com> - psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wr
ites:
:>
:>Thanks for the input. I am getting somewhat confused about the
:>thickness issue by now. I had one reply recommending 0.001", one
:>recommending 0.01 and this one at 0.004. My personal thought (and I
:>stress the word 'thought') is that 0.001 is too thin so I leaned
:>towards the 0.01 figure but 0.004 seems ok too. What different
:>characteristics would different thicknesses have. Why would I want a
:>particular thickness (0.001, 0.004 or 0.01) ?
:>Any and all thougts appreciated.
:>Also, in regards to the adhesion problem I had, the paint shop feels
:>that possibly the cleaning and pre-treatment chemicals were not
:>working properly so they are bringing in the chemical distributor to
:>look at things. Does this seem like a reasonable assumption assuming
:>that the de-greaser bath works ok and no oils are left on the steel ?
:>My original thought was that maybe they are handling the product with
:>bare hands so that you get a re-deposition of oil but I am now told
:>that this is not a problem as long as the product is wet. (Don't ask
:>me why wet versus dry should make any difference). 
:>Any thoughts ?????
:>

The powder coater in my area usually deposits .009-.010 of coating(after 
curing). This has worked out well, the only minor problem being that any 
reamed/threaded holes have to be cleaned out afterwards, so that means 
running a reamer or tap thtu each one. They also prefer to have pieces 
sandblasted before they're brought in, it really helps adhesion.

All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
pdrumm@wis.com
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK



From jhock@pullman.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:47 EST 1996
Article: 22571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!krel.iea.com!news.moscow.com!ppp100.moscow.com!user
From: jhock@pullman.com (Jim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plans for Metalworking Tools
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 11:57:16 -0800
Organization: PalouseNet 
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <jhock-2801961157160001@ppp100.moscow.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp100.moscow.com


My friend Alan Wegner has been restoring cars for 20 years. I've worked
with him on several of my own projects. Alan is an excellent craftsman and
a real tool fanatic, who has designed and built a number of genuinely
useful alternatives to expensive commercial tools. At last he's published
a book of do-it-yourself plans for such tools as: body sling, wire bender,
36" & 48" sheet-metal brakes, plate brake, English wheel, 40" edging
sander, 24" slip joint roller, and a plannishing hammer! 

All require a certain level of skill, and a few necessitate a metal lathe
or milling machine, but those bits could be farmed out. Highly recommended
for any shop.

It is available for US$23.95 directly from:

WTP
Route 2 Box 323
Pullman, Washington 99163
USA

(I have no connection with this offer, other than friendship. I'm not
making a cent, folks -- just passing the word along.)


From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:47 EST 1996
Article: 22572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 01:19:01 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <310c1b34.64400496@news.islandnet.com>
References: <310ab78f.84717034@news.islandnet.com> <4ef007$m6c@cloner3.netcom.com>  <310b1cb9.110614610@news.islandnet.com> <NEWTNews.822880527.1595.ke4zv@ke4zv.radio.org>
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I guess this question had to come up sooner or later. Although I have
never worked with a full sized pattern I envision several problems and
because of these I have avoided the whole issue. One is cost (at $5
per bushing things add up fast) especially since I have to deal with
multiple spacings which means I would need to make up a jig for each
set of drill patterns. My current setup allows me to easily change the
hole distance. The other big issue is space/usability. The material
being drilled is 1/2" or 3/4" square tube up to lets say 7 ft long. By
the time a master pattern is clamped onto the blank, things are
getting mighty awkward to move around on a 12*12 drill press table.
Yes, I could build supports but things could really start to become
involved. 
The other thing I forgot is that I drill different sizes of holes (but
not in the same part) which means that for one hole spacing I will
need two set of masters.
Am I imagining all these problems or is this a realistic way of
looking at the whole thing ?

Jens


ke4zv@radio.org wrote:

> why aren't you just using
>a full size master drilling template for all the parts? That way every
>part will have the same pattern of holes, IE the pattern in the master
>template.
>
>Gary
>
>



From psh@islandnet.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:48 EST 1996
Article: 22573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 01:19:05 GMT
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 34
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Peter O'Leary <poleary@mcs.com> wrote:

>I think I remember a previous post on this same subject a few months back 
>(was it you?)

Yes it was ... but unfortunately the result of the discussion that I
constructed is not meeting my needs.

>The challenge you have is much like the problem of advancing a strip of 
>material through a progressive die, though you have the additional factor 
>of trying to locate from a drilled hole.  The drilled holes vary in size 
>and position enough for you to accumulate errors.

right

>Why not try the following?  Make a jig with a top plate having three 
>holes, accurately sized and equally spaced.  You would be well off to put 
>hardened drill jig bushings in all three holes.  The first hole would be 
>for the drill, and the second and third for pilots.  Make the pilot holes 
>and the pilots somewhat (1/32") larger and put a shallow taper on the 
>ends of the pilots.  This way the pilots will make up for slight 
>differences in hole size.  The reason you should use two pilots is that 
>they will tend to average out errors in the spacing between the holes. 

What kind of accuracy would you figure I would see between hole 75 of
workpiece 'a' vs the 75th hole on workpiec 'b' ?
 

>Just a thought.
Thanks, any thoughts are welcomed ... you never know what little thing
switches/triggers on the 'aha' light in my brain. :)

Regards
Jens


From cbear81438@aol.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:49 EST 1996
Article: 22574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: #10 Brown & Sharpe Taper source
Date: 28 Jan 1996 21:43:27 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have some #10 B&S Taper arbors, send Email to cecil
bearden73424.2136@Compuserve.com


From afn03234@freenet2.freenet.ufl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:50 EST 1996
Article: 22575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!freenet2.freenet.ufl.edu!afn03234
From: afn03234@freenet2.freenet.ufl.edu (Ronald L. Charlotte)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning Ivory on a Lathe
Date: 28 Jan 1996 22:25:40 GMT
Lines: 22
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References: <4edk83$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>
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X-Newsreader: NewsWerthy 2.02

In <4edk83$lrf@pippin.globalnet.co.uk>, cobra@mail.globalnet.co.uk (Laughing
Larry) wrote:

> Any tips re cutting tools for turning ivory ? speeds? tips?

> (no flames, i am talking of scrap ivory from junk stalls )

If you can find it at a library or used book store, you want a book 
called called _Bone, Antler, Ivory, and Horn_ by Arthur MacGregor (ISBN 
0 389 20531 1).  This book gives a very readable explaination of the 
properties of the skeletal materials using both archaic and modern 
tools.

Otherwise, treat it like a very hard, very brittle, wood.  Slow speeds, 
sharp tools, and you want to protect yourself from the dust as it's not 
healthy to breathe in large amounts.  Real Ivory is laid down in 
concentric layers, so it's easy to accidentially delaminate a piece, 
especially if it's already well dried out.

--
     Ron Charlotte -- Gainesville, FL
     afn03234@afn.org


From ke4zv@radio.org Mon Jan 29 10:44:50 EST 1996
Article: 22576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.radio.org!news
From: ke4zv@radio.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 17:51:03 PDT
Organization: TAC, The Atlanta Connection and Radio.Org
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In Article<310b1cb9.110614610@news.islandnet.com>, <psh@islandnet.com> writes:
> Kevin, thanks for the input but I am having trouble understanding what
> you mean. The holes I need to drill, lets say 75 in stock 'a' and 75
> in stock 'b' need to be accurate between 'a' and 'b' but spacing
> between hole 1 and hole 2 on stock 'a' could be out without any real
> consequence as long as spacing between hole 1 and 2 on stock 'b' is
> out by the same distance. The major concern beyond that is time taken
> to drill since this is a production situation. I do not have time to
> measure each hole before I drill it. It needs to be a fluid motion
> drill,move stock, drill etc.
> How would the gauges work in that sort of situation. Also, how would
> accumulated error be eliminated because you are still referring to a
> previously drilled hole. So even if you are out by 0.005" per hole
> (this being about the best possible accuracy from a drill press to my
> understanding) there is a potential discrepancy of + - 0.375" or in
> the worst case hole number 75 on stock 'a' could be off by 0.75" from
> the 75th hole on stock 'b'.
> Could you pleas elaborate.

Apparently I don't understand the problem, but why aren't you just using
a full size master drilling template for all the parts? That way every
part will have the same pattern of holes, IE the pattern in the master
template.

Gary




From jnaylor@southwind.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:51 EST 1996
Article: 22577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!col.hp.com!csn!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!symbios.com!southwind.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fun With Scrap Hard drives
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 21:02:25 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <jnaylor-2801962102250001@192.0.2.1>
References: <310776C0.73A6@windshadow.com> <4e9si3$rku@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4eeani$gif@acad.stedwards.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne) wrote:

> 
> If you want really big magnets try to find some of the old "washing machine"
> type CDC 80 or 300 meg drives.  Lots of AL, stainless screws, little
> precision roller bearing, 1/2 HP motor, high precision spring loaded bearing
> on the disk shaft and lots of hi amp DC power.  In addition to this usually
> a pretty heafty welded steel cabinet with casters.  Pretty amazing to compare
> those 1970 model 80 meg drives with the current 4 gig drives which are 
> smaller than most hardcover books.

I've had one of these lying around for a long time (of course) always
intending to see if the 12 inch platter could be used as a lap. But what
to do with the slurry? :>)  Seems a little ironic when you consider the
lengths required to keep out the tiniest dust particle, not to mention
abrasives...

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net


From xlch58@netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:52 EST 1996
Article: 22578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!xlch58
From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Machine Cleanliness and Shop Waste
Message-ID: <xlch58DLwyCv.2xB@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
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Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 22:55:42 GMT
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Sender: xlch58@netcom14.netcom.com

Paul Amaranth (amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu) wrote:
: My local landfill runs a recycling program.  One of their containers
: is labeled 'Misc Metals'.  When I get a can of chips and swarf I just
: dump it in there since it's 95% steel and aluminum.

: Actually, I'd like to take OUT some of the stuff I see in that bin :-)

    My wife hates it when I take stuff to the dump, she never knows just 
when I'll come back with more than I took.  It has happened before.  



From harrys@supernet.net Mon Jan 29 10:44:52 EST 1996
Article: 22579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news01.aud.alcatel.com!news.sesqui.net!compassnet.com!usenet
From: harrys@supernet.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hi, Still looking for more info on Steam Outboard marine engines
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 02:19:15 GMT
Organization: Compass Net, Inc.
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Hi, I'm still looking for information on Steam Outboard Marine
Engines.  A couple people responded last time, but I didn't get any
Phone numbers of people to talk to... thanks..

harry



From khchung@maths.unsw.edu.au Mon Jan 29 10:44:53 EST 1996
Article: 22581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: khchung@maths.unsw.edu.au ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.drugs.psychedelic,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.chocolate,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.drink.beer,rec.food.drink.tea
Subject: Re: My name is Laura.
Followup-To: alt.dev.null
Date: 28 Jan 1996 23:54:50 GMT
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witchy@sullivan.fidnet.com wrote:
: faiths9508@aol.com (FaithS9508) wrote:
: 
: >This is pretty amusing...I don't know too many quilters and crafters who
: >feel the need to call halfway across the world for hot phone chat with
: >another woman.  But I suppose it is possbible.   Somehow, this post is
: >oddly misplaced, don't you think?
: 
: >-f
: 
: The person who placed that here also spammed all the newsgroups.
: 
As the ficticious Harry Hu, the great Hawaiian detective would have said:
moment please, cross-posted to hell and back, not spammed.

Indeed, the header suggests that it has been crossposted to every rec group
in existence.

Cheers,

Kin Hoong

PS. Followup directed to alt.dev.null...


From david@hoskin.demon.co.uk Mon Jan 29 10:44:54 EST 1996
Article: 22582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!demon!hoskin.demon.co.uk!david
From: David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to cut a rack?
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:44:08 +0000
Organization: Home
Lines: 17
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <mSMN5EAIMLDxEwRH@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
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In article <4ehrak$r3k@newsreader.wustl.edu>, "Jonathan M. Elson"
<jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> writes
>
>You will need to get a fairly large diameter gear tooth mill, to clear the
>bulky main spindle casting of the machine.  Set it up and measure the 
>clearance under the head to see how big a mill you need.  This may be a real
>problem, many gear tooth mills are of small diameter. 
>
How about tilting the head to 90 deg., mounting a disc of sufficient
diameter to clear the head casting (a faceplate?) and setting a home-
made form tool on the circumference to produce a single point flycutter.

--                    **************************************************
Regards,              The business of finding fault is very easy: that
David Hoskin          of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
East Yorkshire, UK    **************************************************


From pdrumm@wis.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:55 EST 1996
Article: 22583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.mci.newscorp.com!usenet
From: pdrumm@wis.com (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: filler for painting a casting?
Date: 29 Jan 1996 11:53:48 GMT
Organization: News Corp./MCI Online Ventures
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In message <4egigs$154_003@nntp.best.com> - jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau) writ
es:
:>
:>Can anyone suggest a filler to smooth the rough surface of a sand casting 
:>before painting?  Bondo works, but it's overkill. Something that would flow on 
:>with a brush would be a whole lot easier.  
:>
:>--
:>Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
:>Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
:>591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
:>Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods

I helped a guy recondition a Bridgeport mill a few years ago, when we started 
sanding the paint, we found under it---SPOT PUTTY ! Wasn't hard at all to 
re-apply, just use a rubber squeegee...

All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
pdrumm@wis.com
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK



From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Mon Jan 29 10:44:55 EST 1996
Article: 22584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: palama@dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sphere turning jigs?
Date: 29 Jan 1996 12:18:55 GMT
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Brian Meek (alberic@access4.digex.net) wrote:
: Greetings all:
: I have a question, actually, I have many, but I'll keep it down to one 
: tonight.  I've been needing to turn some sphere headed punches for 
: forming sheet metal.  I have a pair of lathes, and should be able to do 
The hemisphere turning procedure as described in the Holtzapffel book on plain
or simple turning involves the following steps:
1) Set the slide to run along the lathe axis and turn a cylinder whose
   diameter is the same of the sphere.
2) Set the slide at 45 degrees and cut a cone the depth of cut of the cone
   is decided by the requirement that the diameter of the remaining face
   of the work be equal to the lenght of the conical cut.
3) Set the slide at 22.5 and 67.5 degrees and cut two other conical surfaces.
4) Repeat with 11.25 33.75 56.25 78.75 degrees, and so on.

   The idea underlying this procedure is to produce a solid whose section
along the lathe axis is a square, an octagon, a 16-sided polygon, a 32 one
etc. so as to approximate a circle and hence a sphere.
   I use to finish up the work with a hand held file.
   Hotzappfel also gives a procedure to turn an exact sphere (ivory
billiard balls) by hand without the help of a slide rest but this requires
special holding jigs.
   Hope this helps.
Ciao, Antonio.






From bobp@halcyon.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:56 EST 1996
Article: 22585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bobp@halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: removing drill chucks, need help
Date: 29 Jan 1996 06:39:01 GMT
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I wish to swap chucks between two 3/8" Makita drills.  They
appear to have identical attachment, but I haven't even figured out
if it's a thread vs. taper mount.

Each chuck has a removable screw down the center of the spindle,
LH thread that removes easily.  But at the spindle end of the chuck,
there is neither a wrench flat nor a spindle lock.  There's no
obvious place to drive a wedge either.

'appreciate any help... thanks

Bob



From Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no Mon Jan 29 10:44:57 EST 1996
Article: 22586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no (Knut Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fax number to Village Press?
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:58:38 GMT
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Please help, does Village Press (Home Shop Machinist) have a fax number?
Thank you
Knut


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 29 10:44:58 EST 1996
Article: 22587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a series of accurate holes
Date: 29 Jan 1996 04:52:16 GMT
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In <310c1b34.64400496@news.islandnet.com> psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
writes: 
>
>I guess this question had to come up sooner or later. Although I have
>never worked with a full sized pattern I envision several problems and
>because of these I have avoided the whole issue. One is cost (at $5
>per bushing things add up fast) especially since I have to deal with
>multiple spacings which means I would need to make up a jig for each
>set of drill patterns. My current setup allows me to easily change the
>hole distance. The other big issue is space/usability. The material
>being drilled is 1/2" or 3/4" square tube up to lets say 7 ft long. By
>the time a master pattern is clamped onto the blank, things are
>getting mighty awkward to move around on a 12*12 drill press table.
>Yes, I could build supports but things could really start to become
>involved. 
>The other thing I forgot is that I drill different sizes of holes (but
>not in the same part) which means that for one hole spacing I will
>need two set of masters.
>Am I imagining all these problems or is this a realistic way of
>looking at the whole thing ?
>

Jens - 

I'm not altogether sure I've got this thing pictured right, and I've
made certain assumptions (a trait I've been told recently is one of a
multitude of flaws in my character) about your setup that may not be
entirely correct but. . .

Any error in your current fixture would, as you said, be accumulative
but should be relatively consistent from part to part.  The only
mechanism I can think of that would produce the part to part errors
you're getting is inconsistency in the manner in which the fixture is
applied.  If I have this thing pictured correctly, the center of the
reference hole in the fixture is fixed, with a dowel pin, at the center
of the previously drilled hole and the new hole is drilled through a
2nd. hole (and drill bushing, more about that later) in the fixture. 
With this arrangement, and assuming the fixture is held flat against
the stock, there seems to be only one degree of freedom remaining which
could produce the part to part error; rotation of the fixture about the
Z axis or, in this case, the dowel pin.  I would use a 2nd. dowel pin
in the fixture to pick up one edge of the stock. If the fixture is held
with the dowel pin firmly against the edge of the stock (and, again,
the fixture is held flat against the stock), I don't see other sources
of error that wouldn't be random and therefore non-accumulative.

With respect to having to drill different size holes using the same
fixture; one way to handle this, provided the required hole sizes
aren't too much different, is to use slip fit renewable type drill
bushings and simply install the appropriate size as needed.  Another
possibility is to use your fixture to spot drill only, and do the
actual through drilling without the fixture.  This may contribute a
small, but random, error.

Incidentally, all of the above assumes perpendicularity of the entire
arrangement including, in the case of tubing, the hole in the far side.
This can be a real problem with tubing, more so in the case of slender
drills; the far side hole can be almost anywhere the point of the drill
can reach.  The problem can be alleviated somewhat by using as short
and stiff a drill as possible (e.g., a screw machine type).

Hope this is of some help, and Regards, Dale

An aside: It would sure be convenient in this newsgroup to have a means
of
transferring small drawings sometimes.  Yet another nebulous thought
lurking
in this alleged mind.




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:58 EST 1996
Article: 22588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning
Date: 29 Jan 1996 06:28:36 GMT
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wayne weedon (wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: In article <822427616.26740@mellie.demon.co.uk>
:            rmawby@mellie.demon.co.uk "Roger Mawby" writes:

:  I don't know where you are, but if you are in the South you might like to
: consider Machine Tool Services in Poole.  They specialise remachining
: machine tools from the smallest lathe to full size industrial units.

:  A friend has just had his Brigdeport turret mill reground and hand scraped
: and it was a very nice job.

Gee, I'd like to know what they charged for regrinding and scraping that
Bridgeport.  I've got one, too, and although it really seems to be fine, it
would give me a data point on what this kind of work costs.  Actually,
doing an Atlas lathe is a much smaller job, partly because the main ways
are all right angles, no Vees.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Mon Jan 29 10:44:59 EST 1996
Article: 22589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to cut a rack?
Date: 29 Jan 1996 07:00:36 GMT
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Joe Landau (jrl@versaform.com) wrote:
: I have an old machine (a Barnes lathe) with a carriage rack with some broken
: teeth.  I thought I'd make a new one on my vertical mill, but looking in MSC I 
: see no end mills for cutting gear teeth, only horizontal cutters.  

: Any suggestions?  sources?  make an end mill with the right form?  Sounds 
: hard.  Also, can anyone suggest a good way to identify the pressure angle?  

Well, to turn a vertical mill into a horizontal, you just tilt the head over
90 degrees.  This , of course, means that the rack would be laid left/right,
not like on a regular horizontal mill.  But that is better to use the longest
table axis for the rack.

You will need to get a fairly large diameter gear tooth mill, to clear the
bulky main spindle casting of the machine.  Set it up and measure the 
clearance under the head to see how big a mill you need.  This may be a real
problem, many gear tooth mills are of small diameter.  Hmmm, an idea is 
forming.  Use a narrow side milling cutter, or even a slitting saw - tilt the
head close to 90 degrees, but with spindle down and motor up, 90 degrees
minus pressure angle!  (Or would that be 90 degrees minus 1/2 PA?)  Anyway,
use the mill to cut narrow, tilted grooves one way, then reverse the rack
(or head tilt) and repeat the process.  You now have approximated gear teeth!
This should work very nicely for the 20 degree profile, but the 14 1/2 degree
profile has a more complex curve to it, and requires a formed cutter.
Well, it's an idea, anyway.



From steamer@west.net Sun May  5 13:55:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27185 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Parts Dealer?
Date: 22 Apr 1996 20:24:47 -0700
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	--Uh, domestic; what country is this message from??? 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Last Law of Product Design:
	COMING SOON		:	If you can't fix it, feature it.
	http://www.west.net~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Sun May  5 13:55:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27186 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: Novice welding
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In article <4lgl9g$f2@nyx.cs.du.edu> rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) writes:
>>You will have a lot better luck if you get some new rods. Go to a welding
>>supply store and get some contact rod. It doesn't require as much care to
>>use.
>>
>>My only other advice would be to toss it off a bridge, but that would be
>>snippy.
>>
>>Best of luck.
>
>
>Maybe it's just me but I've found that while it may be easier to maintain 
>an arc with drag rod, I have a harder time getting a good weld.  They 
>work best in downhand position in long, straight passes.  The slag builds 
>up too fast in corners or where you have less than ideal fitup.  Like I 
>say, maybe it's just me and lack of technique.  When at their best, they 
>make a really nice looking weld with the thick slag shielding the bead 
>until it cools, then chips off in big chunks.  Other times, the slag can 
>be a bear to clean out of your weld.

Yes, I found the same thing as well. Years ago I switched to cellulose
fluxed electrodes from the rutile fluxed ones. These are a pain to use -
you have to have pretty good arc length control - but you can weld all
positions including overhead with them. I have a couple boxes of the rutile
fluxed ones sitting around unopened.

Peter Wiley



From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:55:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27187 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 23 Apr 1996 02:01:35 -0400
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Just received more Sherline  retro-fit literature today. IMHO $5,000 for a
 CNC Sherline mill is nothing  short of  obscene! I can buy the standard
mill for  less than $500.  Can anyone tell me  why it must cost 900% more 
for the  retro-fit? With a profit margin like this I am in the wrong
business. Just venting <G>.

Bill Rittner


From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:55:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27188 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 23 Apr 1996 05:06:15 GMT
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Be sure to run 200 volts to the garage. Even if you don't need it now,
>>you may later. If your compressor will run on 220, that is a better
>>choice than sucking 15A of 110. And some day you'll have a welder or
>>machine tool that wants 220.

Be sure to use a 220 receptacle.  I read an article a while back where 
the author said "I'll be the only one using it and I know that outlet is 
220V".
Don't count on that...!  Sounded like a booby trap for grandchildren, 
wives, etc.


-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com




From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Sun May  5 13:55:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27189 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gast vacuum pump
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:06:33 mountain
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>Roger Hoover (rhoover@shimano.watson.ibm.com) wrote:

> I have a Gast vacuum pump (no motor), model 0870-P101A.
> Does anyone out there have a Gast book that gives some
> info on this pump?  (Eg. how much vacuum, what hp motor,
> what speed motor)?

My Gast book doesn't cover model 0870, but if the numbering system is 
consistent, it's probably between a model 0765 and a 1065.  A model 0765 
requires at least a 1/3 hp, 1725rpm motor, and will displace 6.0 cfm at 0 
pressure.  A model 1065 requires at least a 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm motor, and will 
displace 10.0 cfm at 0 pressure.  One little problem, however.  According to 
my information, a "P" model is an air compressor, not a vacuum pump.  A vacuum 
pump would be a (you guessed it) "V" model.  Not to worry.  The only 
difference is in the lubrication system.  Under the oil reservoir, you should 
find a tee with an air filter sticking out to one side.  Remove the tee, and 
replace it with a vacuum lubricator assembly, Gast part number V40C.  From the 
vacuum lubricator assembly, there will be two small tubes, which will go to 
the bearings in the end plates on each end of the housing.  Make sure there 
are pipe cleaners (called "feed wicks") in the tubes to wick the oil to the 
bearings.  Discard the existing bearing oilers.

Gast used to supply graphite vanes.  They were quite brittle, but given 
lubrication, they would last for years.  If you have a wreck, they shatter.  I 
have two model 1065 where I work, and they normally run 4 or 5 years of 80 or 
90 hour weeks between overhauls.  Lately, Gast has been providing vanes made 
of a bakelite type material.  They are cheaper, but I have only had a set in 
service for two years, so I'm not sure if they are better or worse than 
graphite yet.

If your pump needs overhauling, just buy the vanes from Gast.  Go to a bearing 
supply house for the bearings and shaft seals.  If the bearings you get have 
seals, carefully remove the seals.  The lubricating oil is drawn from the 
reservoir, through the vacuum lub assembly,  into the space between the shaft 
seal and the bearing, and from there into the pump through the bearing.  It is 
absolutely essential that these pumps get a little bit of oil all the time.  
They come to a screeching halt real fast if they are run dry.  Try for an end 
clearance of .0015 to .004 between the end plates and the rotor.  I use the 
plastic strip that mechanics use to measure connecting rod clearances with to 
measure the end clearance.  Make your own gaskets from various thicknesses of 
paper to get the clearances just right.  Too little, and the pump will seize 
up.  Too much and the pumping efficiency decreases.  Gast says these pumps 
will pull a 28 inch vacuum.  You couldn't prove it by me.  I wouldn't count on 
more that 23 or 24 inches of mercury, and then only on a good day.

Use direct drive with these pumps.  Connect the pump directly the motor with a 
Lovejoy type coupling.  These pumps are not designed to be belt driven.  They 
are noisly little rascals.  You can buy a muffler for the outlet from Gast, 
which does make them a little quieter, and catches some of the oil, before it 
is sprayed into the atmosphere.  REMEMBER - you must keep these pumps 
lubricated.  Number 10 oil works for me.  If they run dry, they seize up.  
Check the outlet of the pump with a piece of white paper.  There should be 
evidence of oil droplets within a few seconds.

My local distributor is pretty good.  We may be able to figure out exactly 
what you have, if it would help.  email me at rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca if you 
require more info.

				RJG

P.S.  Did I mention that you have to keep these pumps sell lubricated?


From aw992@lafn.org Sun May  5 13:55:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27190 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: aw992@lafn.org (chris castle)
Subject: Anyone built EDM from HSM plans ?
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Hi ....I was wondering if anyone has built the EDM that has 
been going for the last year.
Chris


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun May  5 13:55:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27191 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need some prices of metals, please
Date: 23 Apr 1996 05:24:27 GMT
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When I taught boating safety for the USPower Squadrons, we always said 
that there were no dumb questions-just maybe some dumb answers.

It seems like you got a burst of the latter.  

If you are not too choosey about sources, there are recycle places and 
junk yards and etc. to use as sources for metals which will be a lot 
cheaper than most supply houses when it comes to small chunks.  Everett 
Steel has a back door operation which sells stuff at first quantity break 
prices.  Maybe there is an operation like that around you.

Welcome to our hobby.  It will be whatever you make it and after a while 
the holes will be in the right places and the 0.001 fits will be what you 
get.  Oh, yes, ask questions and for every sorehead, there are many great 
guys around to help you.   "CC"



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:55:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27192 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Message-ID: <1996Apr22.132359.22725@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 22 Apr 96 13:23:59 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <darylb-190496172936@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>, darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) writes:
|>Hey this is a cool site!! These engines are positively massive How do you
|>keep up with an engine that consumes 500gal of water per stroke?


I think you mis-read the description.  The purpose of the engines were
to pump water.  On one stroke, it would pump 500 gallons of water;
not *consume* it.

Jim


From billg63475@aol.com Sun May  5 13:55:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27193 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cowells milling machine
Date: 22 Apr 1996 18:31:18 -0400
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In article <317A6A65.2B33@valleynet.com>, David Eiman
<david@valleynet.com> writes:

> I 
>would like to find some others who have this machine 

You might send some email to tmpstfugit@aol.com, I believe he has a few of
these machines.

Bill


From marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:55:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27194 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silver plating - a bit nearer.
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:33:02 +0100
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In article <4lgis0$qnk@nyx.cs.du.edu>, Robert Galloway
<rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu> writes

>I have done a lot of plating in the scale you describe.  I used a battery 
>charger plugged into a variac for a power source.  Put a multimeter with 
>a DC milliamp scale in series with the DC supply.  The anode should be 
>pure silver.  The electrolyte can be mixed from bulk chemicals but the 
>minimum amount available may be impractical.  I got my electrolyte powder 
>premixed from a dental supply company.  You can get your anode the same 
>place.  I would guess that there are jewelry suppliers who would have the 
>same materials.
>
>rhg
>
Thanks for the info Robert.  I've already got my hands on a chunk of
pure silver to use for an anode.  Presumably the piece to be plated
should be used as a cathode.  What isn't clear is what the electrolyte
formulation should be.  I assume there would have to be a silver
compound of some sort in it but which one?  Silver Nitrate, Silver
Chloride, Silver Somethingate ???

I need to know the composition of the premixed powder you referred to so
that I can hunt some down.

Thanks again and sorry for being dense.

Regards

-- 
Marc Line



From marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:55:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27195 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - how to do it?
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:45:13 +0100
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In article <4lbo9h$pkd@news.tiac.net>, Doug White <gwhite@tiac.net>
writes

>I have a small bottle (somewhere) of silver plating powder.  It's a 
>mixture of silver nitrate, table salt, and cream of tartar (I'm not 
>kidding).  The original recipe was in an old Ham radio magazine for 
>silver plating RF components.  You wet a rag, and put some powder on it 
>to make a paste.  Rub vigorously on brass or copper, and it plates out 
>right onto the metal.  I think the cream of tartar is used as the flux to 
>remove any residual oxides.  If no one else comes forward with the 
>proportions soon, I'll see if I can find my bottle and I'll post back.
>
>Doug White

Thanks for your post Doug.

I tried something similar with a commercially available fluid but the
coating was nowhere near uniform enough for my purposes.  I suspect that
the silver content was a little on the low side.

I should appreciate it if you could post details of the proportions of
components in your powder/paste as I'm keen to try anything and
everything to get the results I need.

Thanks again.

Regards.

-- 
Marc Line


From marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:56:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27196 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Roman coin cleaning Q
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:55:34 +0100
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In article <4le9ov$3a9@tribune.concentric.net>, Gene Olson
<mettlewk@cris.com> writes

(in reference to cleaning Roman coins)

>We had several here at one point and the coin poeple said the fastest 
>way to make them totally worthless was to clean off the patina and polish 
>them up/
>
Thanks for the warning Gene.

I know that the removal of patina reduces the saleable value of the
coins to zilch.

My interest is archaeological rather than commercial.  I have directed
the excavation of a Roman villa for some years and many of the coins we
have found are covered with a thick layer of crud as a reult of them
being in close proximity to limestone for almost 2000 years.  We need to
identify and date these as some of them are from vague contexts.  It
seems the only way is to chemically and selectively remove the deposit
so that the glorious detail might be observed.

I have seen photos of before and after when this has been done and if
they are to be believed, it would be worth the trying.  I don't want to
invest in the commercially available gear if our crud is not like their
crud though.

Any ideas?

Regards.

-- 
Marc Line


From frank@newshost.dsea.com Sun May  5 13:56:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27197 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum work, diamonds, thanks, etc.
Date: 22 Apr 1996 09:05:16 -0700
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First I'd like to say that this remains one of the most informative
forums I've ever come across.  Lets all keep up the good work.
Now that my news posting software might be working...

The info presented here in the past has encouraged me to try all sorts
of new techniques.  I've been working quite a bit of 6061 aluminum
lately and tried an oddball idea yesterday.  It worked.

I needed to make some wells for a washer/bolt head combo.  I have no
milling machine, but have been using an end mill in my Delta 16" drill
press for cap screws.  Due to the size of the bolt, this would have
been tedious.  I have an oddball wood drill.  It is a shaft and
threaded collar in which fit various spade bits to produce flat- bottom
holes.  These were produced in the '70s as a cheap alternative to the
Irwin-88 style bits. After clamping, and adding a bit of oil, this bit
just blew through the 6061.  Pie-slice wedges were flying!  It was 20
seconds of joy...  I might just try one of those Irwin bits.

Had anybody else read the AP article a few weeks back about the new,
cheap diamond coating method?  [March 30 (23?) Orange County Register ]
The accidental substitution of carbon dioxide for nitrogen in a
laser-nitriding experiment let some English experimenters diamond coat
steel.  The coatings can be grown up to 1/2" thick, and are cheap!  The
only cost is the laser, positioning equipment, electricty and carbon
dioxide.  The process is so cheap and robust that the US Navy is
thinking of diamond coating ships hulls with a robot.

Machine tools as we know them might be in for a change.  The limits 
to this technology are unknown.  Imagine making a steel form, diamond
coating it, and dissolving out the steel in an acid bath.  I see 
diamond eyeglass lenses as the first really useful application.

Two other unrelated ideas.  After thinking about it for years, I
finally bought an old $1 electric roaster oven at a yard sale for the
purpose of heating things in the garage.  This weekend I gave it a
workout.  Using mild steel, zinc chromate primer and some generic spray
paint, baked enamel parts were produced.  After priming, lay the paint
on heavy for two coats.  While tacky, move to oven and bake at 250F for
15 minutes.  Lightly mist with a hand sprayer to cool.  Hard, smooth
glossy paint, like I have never been able to produce before.  Try it.

Final note, for SoCal folks only. I have come across some rollers that
are perfect for making a slip roll.  I have 8 rollers and need 3.
These are about 3" in diameter and 30" long, with threaded ends and odd
huge bolts.  I figure that somebody with a lathe could turn these, or
make collars, to slip into pillow blocks.  The only thing left to make
is an adjustable frame.  Send me email if you are intereseted in some
sort of joint production.


-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From rmorris@alaska.net Sun May  5 13:56:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27198 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net (Dick Morris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lincoln Weld-pak 100, good or crap?
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 06:33:11 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
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felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) wrote:

>I've been thinking of getting a lincoln weld pak 100. Is it a piece of crap, 
>or does it work well? Anyone have one and like it? Should I just get a cheap 
>arc welder instead?

I've only put around five  hours on mine. It hasn't given me any
problems. I've been happy with the results despite my limited
experience with welding.

Dick Morris



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27199 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "drive screws" on SB lathe
Date: 23 Apr 1996 10:48:04 GMT
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In message <4lgojd$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com> - cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
(Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
->
->
->I was able to remove most of the drive screws in the lathe from
->behind, with a properly sized pin punch and a little force. I'm
->not yet sure how I'll remove the ones from the bed (they're in blind).
->
->I found new drive screws are available from MSC (boxes of 100, of
->course) - so at worst, I'll slot the heads and turn them out, and
->install new. They'll be zinc plated instead of brass, but that's OK.

I've got a bunch of drive screws lying in a box here, various sizes, if you'd
like i'll send you some, no charge (I'll prolly never use 'em anyway).

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From docjfg@foto.infi.net Sun May  5 13:56:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27200 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Reconditioning...
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 11:27:07 -0400
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Hello Everyone,

Have been reading this newsgroup for a couple of weeks, and really
enjoy clicking here! Nice to find folks with the same interests.

I'm sure the following is not an original idea, but would like some
opinions:
          I've read (and re-read and re-read) Connelly's book-just
          fascinating! However, in reconditioning a metal lathe, why
          not use Tig welding to build up the worn areas of the ways.
          Just a small section at the time. The original, untouched
          "ends" would be preserved and used as the reference for
          grinding/scraping the built-up areas.

          This would seem to have some advantages, one being the
          elimination of shafting realignments.

                       What do you think?
                  ******************************

Also, to those questioning buying a lathe: I purchased my (@1942) South
Bend Model A 9x36 about 6 years ago for $750 and have been quite
satisfied, although the ol' girl shows wear. I've probably spent $700-
$1000 in additional tooling,etc...and  been quite amazed at the quality
of work this machine is capable of producing, despite obvious wear
on the ways. It seems the result is more dependent on the
patience and determination of the operator than on the accuracy of
the machine...well, almost. Enco was OK to buy toolholders, etc from-who
can afford Armstrong?
                                                    Best Wishes,
                                                    Jerry Gregson
(PS- A dealer in used machine tools once told me
 that he scraps, or parts-out, any lathe that
 will allow a .020 feeler between precision straight
 edge and way surface...sound right?)


From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27201 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Parts Dealer?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 12:31:01 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
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Try Coles' Power Models in Ventura, California.  (Address
is in the FAQ, I'm sure).  I'm pretty sure they sell, at
a minimum, individual flywheel and cylinder castings, maybe
more on special order.




From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27202 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and other places to visit
Date: 23 Apr 1996 12:36:49 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
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And don't forget the Henry Ford museum in Dearborn!  They have
"modernized" the exibits lately (yuck!) and gotten rid of a lot
of their steam engine collection, but they still have quite a
few, as well as several locomotives.  Lots of cars, of course.
And at least one of nearly everything else ever made in the 
history of the world...  ;-)




From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Sun May  5 13:56:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27203 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum Redux
Date: 23 Apr 1996 06:36:33 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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In article <4lhfjf$t46@panix3.panix.com>, Insect God <sheba@panix.com> wrote:
>
>I'm looking for a vacuum pump for small casting.  I read the recent posts
>about using old propane tanks as chambers to cast with a lower-pressure
>(20") pump, and I think I'd really like to have enough vacuum in the pump
>without worrying about bulky tanks,

It's not the ultimate vacuum that is of concern in vacuum casting but the 
rate-capacity of the pump.  I'm assuming your referring to vacuum 
assisted casting as opposed to casting in a vacuum.  The seals between 
the vacuum system and the flask usually will not support a high vacuum as 
in vacuum down in the millitor or micron range.  The leaks preclude 
reaching this level of vacuum.  The important thing is to pump away the 
leaked air at a rate that will maintain a 22-24 inch vacuum.  This can be 
done by having a good capacity pump (usually a vane type pump such a a 
milking machine pump) or by using a vacuum reservoir on a lower capacity 
pumps (such as an old refrigerator compressor).  The desire to not have a 
large tank sitting around is legitimate from the nuissance standpoint.  
Using a propane tank for a vacuum reservoir is 100% safe if the propane 
has been appropriately vented.  The maximum pressure difference you can 
generate with vacuum is @15 psi at sea level.  Having the reservoir 
simply allows you to maintain your vacuum for the few seconds it takes 
for the casting to be made.

rhg



 tanks imploding, lots of fittings.  The
>pumps Rio Grande sells for this purpose are specked at 30", so I'm looking
>for about that.
>
>However, I notice that in the last American Science and Surplus catalog I
>got, there are 20" vacuum pumps at $80 a pop (or, as it might be, a suck).
>
>This may be a dumb question, but do you think it would work if I bought two
>and hooked them up to the same chamber?  Or put them in series?
>
>-Sheba




From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun May  5 13:56:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27204 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and other places to visit
Date: 23 Apr 1996 13:13:06 GMT
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In article <101260269@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>Also, if you have the time after Names, find your way to Greenfield Village
>and the Henry Ford Museum. (is it in Dearborn?  I was *far* too young to
>drive the last time I was there.)
>

Yep, it's in Dearborn, bordered roughly by the Southfield freeway on the
east, Michigan Avenue on the North, Oakwood on the west and Rotunda Drive
(I think) on the south.  The entrace is off of Oakwood.

It's been a while since I've been through there, but do they ever have
some SERIOUS toys :-)  


--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From James.Foster@cdc.com Sun May  5 13:56:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Novice welding
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:54:01 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <317C0E09.6D78@cdc.com>
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I was curious
> about arc welding, especially for thicker materials.  With the gas welder,
> I was unable to do decent welds on 1/4 and up material.

Well, no matter what the method, a key to welding on thicker material is
in the preparation. You pretty much have to grind/chip/file/whatever a
vee groove in order to get penetration so you can work from the bottom
up
(or both sides in). You can't just blast away at the surface and be
assured
of getting through and through fusion.


From whitlow@scsn.net Sun May  5 13:56:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: whitlow@scsn.net (Mark S. Whitlow)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - a bit nearer.
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:07:27 GMT
Organization: South Carolina SuperNet, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4like3$6n4@daryl.scsn.net>
References: <9DMAZAA$7odxEwzg@bosagate.demon.co.uk> <4lgis0$qnk@nyx.cs.du.edu> <YBbJ1BAueIfxEwH$@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
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Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>Thanks for the info Robert.  I've already got my hands on a chunk of
>pure silver to use for an anode.  Presumably the piece to be plated
>should be used as a cathode.  What isn't clear is what the electrolyte
>formulation should be.  I assume there would have to be a silver
>compound of some sort in it but which one?  Silver Nitrate, Silver
>Chloride, Silver Somethingate ???

>I need to know the composition of the premixed powder you referred to so
>that I can hunt some down.

>Thanks again and sorry for being dense.

>Regards

>-- 
>Marc Line

Try Technic in Cranston (sp), Rhode Island.

Good luck

Mark
Helicoflex Company



From James.Foster@cdc.com Sun May  5 13:56:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!usenet
From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sawzall, jig saw, something else?
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:07:42 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <317CF23E.3FF1@cdc.com>
References: <4lh7ra$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <4lhoqs$sq3@tribune.concentric.net>
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Gene Olson wrote:
> 
> 1/2 " plate, have it sheared to size.
> 
> save yourself lots of blades grief and agrivation.

Yeah, but then you don't have an excuse to buy a new tool.
A sawzall will work better than a jigsaw, IMHO. More
power and a longer stroke. You'll still get bored real
quick though. Get a bunch of high quality blades with
an aggressive cut. Then again, how's your cutting torch
technique? B^)


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:56:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco 4" Milling Vise
Date: 23 Apr 1996 16:12:35 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <4livhk$itc@news1.svc>
References: <4lbtte$1prm@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <4lengc$1pe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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The interesting thing you might like to know about the
'high-quality' vises is they are far from perfect.

The spec on a Kurt is 0.001, I assume plus or minus.

They grind many Kurt vises at a single time and the
potential is there for some inaccuracies.  If one
takes a Kurt to a good grinding shop, they can be
ground into 0.0001 alignment for a little while.

If you ever notice the center of the ways on a Kurt
or other vice, see how they discolor?  That is because
the way becomes hollow or 'U' shaped over time.  A
good grind job will clean that up and prevent it from
reforming if - if - if the vise is well aged before hand.

Even with Kurt or the other 'quality' vices, the work
does rise a bit when the jaw is tightened.  On my vise,
at least, there is an adjustment on the back of the movable
jaw that can me set to minimize rise.  However, if it is
adjusted to remove all rise, the jaw will no longer move.

It is always advisable to tap the work down as you tighten
the jaw.  Otherwise, at least with the ten or so quality
vises I've used, the last 0.001 of squareness will not 
obtainable.  And once in a while, 0.005 is a problem.

I'd guess this is why good fixtures positively hold the
work in all planes.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From acande00@lex.infi.net Sun May  5 13:56:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Aaron Anderson <acande00@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: tensile strength and fatigue life of nickel
Date: 22 Apr 1996 02:14:07 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Hi,

Pardon the rather fundamental question, but where can I find tensile 
strength and fatigue life info. for nickel.  Also, I have noticed an 
increasing number of posts about electroplating in this newsgroup.  How 
would cast nickel compare with electroplated nickel with regard to 
strength etc.

Thanks for your replies,

Aaron Anderson



From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun May  5 13:56:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27210 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!axis.mtholyoke.edu!not-for-mail
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM Editorial Policies
Date: 23 Apr 1996 17:30:21 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4lj43d$en5@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
References: <316A4D60.15D7@maroon.tc.umn.edu> <1996Apr10.094223.863@flying-disk.com> <316d616d.0@isnt.mursuky.edu> <4kq43c$50n@newshost.netrix.com>
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I haven't seen HSM, but a couple of years ago I won a subscription to 
Live Steam as a door prize, just in time for it to go from 12 to six 
issues per year.

I read the first couple of issues, thumbed through the next two, and
tossed the last two onto the pile without bothering to look at them.
Practically all of the articles were in the middle of some project.  A
couple of series started, but didn't interest me much.  I never liked the
idea of construction series stretching over many issues, which could now
be a year or more.  When those continuations make up most of a magazine's
content, I don't stay interested in it for very long, and don't resubscribe. 

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Sun May  5 13:56:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 08:09:55 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
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In article <4lgi94$a22@service2.uky.edu>, djmoor1@pop.uky.edu (Dan Moore) 
says:
>
>Howdy All,
>
>I am heading for Boston this week and
>would like to hear about any metal
>related sights thatare not to be missed.
>Blacksmithing related stuff would be 
>particularly interesting to me.
>
>Dan
>
Although I have no near term plans for visiting that area, Dan's question 
brings up a site that I have heard about.  I understand there is an old 
foundary near Boston.  Is is something like Saugus?  Anyway, if there is 
someone in the area who can answer Dan's question, how about something on 
that foundary.

Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Sun May  5 13:56:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27212 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and other places to visit.
Date: 23 Apr 1996 08:19:58 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
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By ALL means, folks, visit the Ford museum.  They have a Newcomen engine, 
a Boulton and Watt engine that is still single acting, an early Maudsley 
lathe, and many, many other things that will really interest the folks in 
this group.  I have been there at least a half dozen times, and know I 
have not seen everything.  I think one could spend a whole day just in 
the metalworking tools and old engines area!

Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Sun May  5 13:56:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Date: 23 Apr 1996 08:16:27 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4lil7b$23e@moon.src.honeywell.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:131782 rec.crafts.metalworking:27213

In article <317BB0BA.59E2@zk3.dec.com>, Larry Smith <lcs@zk3.dec.com> 
says:
>
>I am crossposting this thread to both metalworking and woodworking
>newsgroups, since I've seen pipes made of both materials.  I'm looking
>for information about how to build and tune a pipe, and the relative
>advantages and disadvantages of wood and metal - ease of construction,
>tuning, tone, and so on.  Stories of personal experiences, pointers to
>references in books and so on are all welcome.

I'm sure folks here can answer your specific question about why different 
materials.  I'd like to share something about the processes.  There is an 
organ factory near St. Louis, Wick's organ, in Highland, Illinois, that 
makes organs and replacement parts.

I have twice toured the facility (they give tours), once with my 
father-in-law who was restoring an old, large organ, and they really 
treated us to a fine tour that time.

Someone has mentioned pouring the solder-like metal on the granite slabs. 
 Wicks does that.  Further, almost ALL of their work is by old methods.  
When they roll that material into a sheet, they solder the edges 
together. But not with electric soldering irons.  They have the "old" 
style irons, with just a big mass of copper on the end, which is heated 
by a gas burner.

The wood-working for the wooden pipes involves lots and lots of hand 
work.  The factory is almost like one of those "living history" 
historical park sites!
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun May  5 13:56:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!axis.mtholyoke.edu!not-for-mail
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum soup cans
Date: 23 Apr 1996 17:40:20 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4lj4m4$en5@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
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Jacqueline Passey (jmp@anna.az.com) wrote:
> Does anyone know a good, cheap tool to use for cutting little pieces of 
> metal out of a aluminum cans, like the kind soup come in?  I read the 
> section of the FAQ on cutting metal but got confused.  I wanted to make 
> candle holders out of them.  Is there any cheap and easy way to do this 
> or should I give up on this project?  

Tin snips.  Big ones give you more leverage, and are easier to use, but 
you need a big hand to use them.  Small ones are better for cutting 
intricate shapes.  Aluminum will be easy to cut with small ones.  Tin 
cans (steel plated with tin) are thin enough to cut easily, too, and have 
the advantage that they can be soldered.


--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: 1943 SB Lathe
Message-ID: <1996Apr23.143134.5189@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <317982d6.11835895@news.sundial.net> <4lg0g3$2ij@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4lgpg9$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:31:34 GMT
Lines: 19

In article <4lgpg9$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>,
Chris Kantarjiev <cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com> wrote:
>So what is the trick to reaching Lindsay, anyway? Every time I
>call, I just get incessant ringing, not even an answering machine.
>I'm using the number from the FAQ, (815) 935-5353... is that right?
>Do they have a FAX number?

I just called, answered on the 3rd ring, gave 'em customer number from
the catalog, book number (1343 @ $69.50 = OUCH!), visa number, expire
data, she said it'd ship today and hubg up.  No more than a minute and
a half.

Bad timing on your part, I'd say.

-- Russ
-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From walnutz@firefly.prairienet.org Sun May  5 13:56:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walnutz@firefly.prairienet.org (Barry Wolinetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 18:22:41 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 20
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Wm. Congreve (Sr.) (congreve@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
: identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
: very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
: keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
: milling machine for surface grinding?

: Thanks.
:                Alan Heldman

Alan;

I don't know about ALL horizontal mills, but the little one I have doesn't
look capable of achieving the necessary RPMs to effectively drive a grinding
wheel.  I could probably rig something up (Phil Duclos has an article in the
"shop Wisdom of Phil Duclos" about it) but to make a 'real' surface grinder
I would need to replace the bearings at a minimum.

Barry 
--


From rogerm@fc.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplntx!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!rogerm
From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 18:48:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4lj8l7$d07@fcnews.fc.hp.com>
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The Saugus Iron Works is a restoration of an original water powered iron
mill and foundry that dates back to colonial times. They made stuff from
nails to cannonballs there using bog iron ore, limestone and charcoal all
produced locally. It is quite an interesting place to visit.

				Roger Mitchell
				VP and Master Mechanic
				Fort Collins Municipal Railway
				Fort Collins, Colorado
				DE N0MCR amateur radio



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum soup cans
Date: 23 Apr 1996 13:50:19 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4lin6r$2cl@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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To: jmp@anna.az.com

I guess it depends in part on how accurate you need the pieces
to be, but for starters I'd suggest some of the compound-leverage
metal shears made by Wiss (Weiss?).  There are three styles:
left-cutting, right cutting, and straight-cutting.  I've never
used any but the straight-cutting. One can certainly cut left 
and right curves with them, but I assume it's easier to cut curves
with the specially-designed shears.

They should be available as a large hardware store, I expect, or
>from  a mailorder place like MSC (address in the FAQ).




From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:56:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!DTNET43-137.dt.navy.mil!hanrahan
From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Modifying Sears Spindle for Drawbar
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:32:21 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <hanrahan.127.317D1424@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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In article <4l4q1d$24m@sanjuan.islandnet.com> johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer) writes:

>What I would like to do is have the spindle drilled for a 1/4 inch
>threaded rod that has an enlarged portion at the bottom end to fit
>standard tools.  A nut would pull the threaded rod and hence the tool
>up into the taper.

Interesting concept, I intend to do light milling with my Rockwell/Delta 17 
inch variable speed drill press and I took a different approach. 

First I removed the table and mounted the floor base to the top of a very 
stout bench. I mounted a large x-y table (13x17, 125 pounds) directly 
to the base. I put the rack into the head (it was made for this when used on a 
production table with multiple heads) so I can move the head up and down 
easily for different size tooling. The 5 inch quill travel will help avoid 
having to move the head too often.

Then to avoid having the end mill holder pull out of the MT spindle, I made a 
sleeve that goes on the outside of the spindle with two set screws turned down 
to engage the MT knock out slot. These prevent the sleeve from pulling down. 
Next the endmill holder was slotted about 0.1 deep for two more set screws 
with cone points going through the sleeve and pushing the endmill holder up 
into the MT.

If people are interested, I will write a small article with pictures and a 
drawing of this adaptor and put it on the Metal Web News. Let me know.



--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:56:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 19:07:36 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Wm. Congreve (Sr.) (congreve@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
: identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
: very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
: keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
: milling machine for surface grinding?

I have started doing a bit of end mill sharpening on my vertical mill.
I use a fixture designed for a surface grinder, and a cup-type wheel in
the spindle, which can be vertical for this application.  I have also
ground vise jaws and similar things, again using the vertical spindle.
I don't see any reason that a mill with a good table (showing minimal
wear and sag) shouldn't be capable of doing surface grinding.  I have
installed 'way covers' on my machine, which makes me worry a lot less
about the grit getting into the ways.  At least on a machine that follows
the Bridgeport design, the screws are pretty well protected, but the
Y axis ways aren't.  Due to the design of common milling machine tables
where the ends of the table are unsupported, the mill is LESS accurate
that the typical surface grinder.  But this may be alright for your
application.  A surface grinder is designed to take very large wheels
spinning at high speed.  The typical horizontal mill is not capable of
delivering high speeds to the horizontal spindle, but that could be
fixed on belt-driven machines.  If a modest size wheel is run between
supports, it will probably do well.  One note - the method of securing
the front support on a horizontal mill severely limits accuracy in the
type of operation you contemplate!  You will have to loosen the front
support every time you raise the knee, thereby throwing off the alignment
of the arbor.  You might do better grinding against the SIDE of the
wheel, and moving the saddle front/back instead of raising the knee
as the fine adjust.  That makes the vertical mill look almost as good
as the horizontal for this.  Of course, the over-arm support on the
big H mills would make it work fine.



From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun May  5 13:56:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Parts Dealer?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 17:46:35 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
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Richard Hyde (XRKF89A@prodigy.com) wrote:
> Can anyone advise me of a domestic, repeat Domestic, dealer that carries 
> a full line of Stuart parts and fittings.  Prefferably one that furnishes 
> a catalog.

A Stuart catalog, or the domestic dealer catalog?

Coles in Ventura, CA  sells, at least used to sell, some Stuart parts.  They 
sell the engine casting sets.  They have a catalog, but I don't know if they 
sell a Stuart catalog.

 
--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: reporting success with home shop hoist
Date: 23 Apr 1996 13:21:39 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4lg2kh$hk4@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>, jrro@watson.ibm.com
writes:

>My shop is in the garage, with 2 x 10 floor joists overhead. What I did
>was to get a very husky, forged, C clamp which will clamp to any joist,
>as needed. A short sling goes from it to a cheap one-half-ton
>differential chain hoist, which will go in a drawer when not in use.
>Another, nylon, sling below that. 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------
>You are lucky that you have the headroom for the sling/hoist/clamp
>combination.  Does anyone know what the appropriate load would
>be for a 2X10 in this case?  

>Also, the C-clamp setup sort of gives me a *gulp* sort of feeling.
>I don't think the manufacturer even considered giving it an  
>overhead lifting rating.  If it is going to slip, it might do so all
>at once.  When I had to rig up something similar to position a
>Hardinge horizintal mill (in pieces) into my basement, I actually
>drilled a 3/4 hole in the center of the 2X10 joist, and blocked 
>that joist with 4X4s on each side of the lift point.  A steel pin 
>went thru the hole, and I lifted against that.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
  
Say Amen, someone. 

Using a 'C' clamp on a 2x10 for hoisting machinery is NOT a good idea,
particularly if the 2x10 spans from wall to wall without any flooring
above and/or there is no 'x' bracing between joists to share the load
between several members. The pin and *especially* the bracing mentioned
above are better ideas. 

To be safe, don't count on a joist for your structural support, especially
across a long span. If the joists are not braced or if they are poorly
fastened or not well supported at the wall, or if they are cracked -
unpleasant things may happen if one of them is over stressed and fails.

How about making a simple frame of two 4x4 posts and a beam (a short
length of 2x10). Notch the 4x4's 1 1/2" x 9.25" at the tops,  to seat the
2x10, and bolt them together with a couple of  1/2" carraige bolts, 2"
>from  the top and bottom of the 2x10, at both ends with large, thick
washers and lock washers. 

Make the frame tall enough to just slide in between the joists overhead.
Hang the hoist sling around (over the TOP of) the 2x10 and then securely
clamp the 2x10 beam to one of the joists - using at least one heavy clamp
on *both* sides of the sling.

If the there is no cross bracing or nailed-to flooring above, fasten a 2x4
or a piece of  1/2" (or thicker) plywood across the underside of the joist
and attach it to a joist on *both* sides of the one you're using, to
spread the lateral load. If there's a possibility of the hoist sling
cutting into the 2x10, put a piece of metal between it and the beam. 

The  post and beam frame will support the vertical load and the joist(s)
provide the required horizontal bracing. A  4' length of  structural grade
2x10 on 4x4 posts, as described, should support about anything you'd be
lifting in your shop.

------------------
Ed Kingsley





From congreve@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 02:16:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
milling machine for surface grinding?

Thanks.
               Alan Heldman


From Prime Promotion Sun May  5 13:56:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Show@PrimePromotion.com
Newsgroups: alt.crafts.plastic-canvas,alt.crafts.professional,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,uk.rec.crafts,rec.crafts.rubberstamps
Subject: Crafts & Antiques show exhibitors needed (Toronto Area)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 18:24:21 GMT
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Bayview crafts & antiques show (outdoor)
Date: Sat,July 6,1996 (rain or shine)
Time : 10:00 am-6:00pm
Location : Bayview/sheppard ave in Metropolitan 
Toronto,Ontario,Canada
Booth Size : 10'x 10'
Cost : Cnd $99 +gst (corner booth +$20 extra)

application deadline May 30 1996

____________________________________________________________
for more information please contact:
Prime Promotion 
tel : 416-481-8851

(Please do not reply by email)


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:56:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEED steady rest for SB 10K
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:44:30 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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In article <4l6tuu$geb@alterdial.UU.NET> sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis) writes:

>looking for a steady rest for SB 10K.  i've tried the usual sources:
>Plaza, Sobel, PKE but no luck. 

I plan on making a steady for my South Bend using the castings from Metal 
Lathe Accessories in PA. When I asked Sobel, he said, "Every lathe was most 
likely shipped new with one, so someone must have a closet full of them; but I 
am not that person."


--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:56:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gasoline, solvents and TLAs
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:52:28 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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In article <101260253@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:

>BTW, bulk kerosene is sold for $1.88 at some of the independent gas stations
>in the South SF bay.  (Try Rotten Robbies(really!) in Campbell.  Bring your
>own can.)

$1.88 wow!  In Maryland, K-1 kerosene at the gas station can be found for 
$1.30 everywhere and some places for $0.99 per gallon.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:56:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Message-ID: <1996Apr23.131107.22758@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Apr 96 13:11:06 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4lgi94$a22@service2.uky.edu>, djmoor1@pop.uky.edu (Dan Moore) writes:
|>I am heading for Boston this week and
|>would like to hear about any metal
|>related sights thatare not to be missed

Depends on how close to Boston you're talking about, or *in* Boston.
The FAQ has a section on metalworking/related museums.  You may find
the Boston Computer Museum interesting, maybe not.

      At Saugus (North of Boston), the iron works is a fine example of
      a 1650  iron works right down to a  replica of one of only 8
      rolling and slitting mills that existed in the world at that time.

There are many possibilities in Massachusetts but I'm not sure how
close to Boston they are.

Jim


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:56:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: old SB (circa 1943) literature?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 19:52:21 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I just ordered and received a parts manual from South Bend
for my 9". It is disappointing, to say the least (especially
for $25!). Judging from the dates on the pages, sometime
in 1995 they redrew all the exploded views on a CAD system. The
resulting drawings are filled with jaggies, as if they were
printed on a dot matrix printer and copied poorly.

Worse, the 9" depicted in these drawings differs from my
model B9W that was built in 1943. There are some mysteries
about my lathe, in particular around the headstock,
that I was hoping to solve by studying the drawings, 
but this book is no help.

If you have a parts catalog that's closer in vintage to 1943,
I would gladly pay you for your time and trouble and shipping
to get me a copy (after all, I paid SBL $25 for something
that's almost worthless to me!). I'd love to have a lubrication
chart of similar vintage, as well as the factory recommendations
for motor size, speed and pulley diameter.

Thanks.


From rooster@iglou.iglou.com Sun May  5 13:56:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rooster@iglou.iglou.com (Rooster)
Subject: elec. wiring f/welder    
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My arc welder has a NEMA 6-50 plug, and uses (of course) the
corresponding receptacle.  The plug is about $13, the recept. about $10.
An electric range usually uses a 10-50 plug and recept., and these cost
about 1/3 of the 6-50's.

Can I refit 10-50's to my stuff safely?  I'm never going to plug a range
into the arc welder outlets, not unless my wife puts a wheel kit on the
Amana.

Thanks for any info.
---
 þ OLX 2.1 TD þ my other car is a Deutz Allis 9190
                                                   
-- 
rooster



From kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com Sun May  5 13:56:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Subject: Re: NEED steady rest for SB 10K
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On Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:44:30 GMT, hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim
Hanrahan) wrote:

>I plan on making a steady for my South Bend using the castings from Metal 
>Lathe Accessories in PA.

Jim, Could you post alittle more information on the Metal Lathe
Accessories foundry in PA. Like what sort of stuff they cast and phone
numbers and such. I want to make a steady rest and follower rest for
my clausing 12x36 if possible someday.

Thanks,
Kevin


From knight@ka1dt.ultranet.com Sun May  5 13:56:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!usenet
From: Dave Knight <knight@ka1dt.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:56:22 -0400
Organization: UltraNet Communications, Inc.
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Metal and wood pipes tend both to be used in different ranks of
the same instrument because of the different sound characteristics.

The metal pipes in even the more expensive organs tend to be made
of two different metals. "Spot metal", which is, for all practical
purposes, solder(!) (50% tin, 50% lead), is used for many of the
pipes around 4 feet or shorter. It tends to be too soft for longer
lengths. Zinc tends to be used in many of the longer pipes. Copper has 
also been used, though I've seen this mainly in the reed pipes.

As someone else noted, spot metal is made by the organ builders
by casting it on a long stone slab, and then milling to the proper
thickness. Spot metal is used a lot in the tuning tabs of the
longer zinc pipes, since it's much more ductile than zinc.

Wood pipes are much easier to make for the average hobbyist, though
if you have a metal roll and have a little experience with sheet
metal work, you'll probably do fine. (Though metal pipes are often
an incredible work of art!!).

There are a goodly number of web pages about pipe organs and
related good stuff. Just do an AltaVista or equivalent search.
That'll keep you busy for hours.

There's even one of the major organ builders with a web page;
Austin organs in Hartford, CT: http://www.austinorg.com which
also has links to a number of other places as well.


From vis_axm@shsu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vis_axm@shsu.edu
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 23 Apr 1996 22:39:27 GMT
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In article <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net>, @ (ctv) writes:
>MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
>
>Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
>Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
>about 10 minutes to do!
>
>If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to 
>four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
>(It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
>about ten to forty dollars!
>
>Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's 
>simple to install, and they descramble all channels
>on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!
>
>For more information, and a complete list of companies
>that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
>$7.95 to:
>
>Sierra CTV
>P.O. Box 1203
>Secaucus, NJ
>07096-1203
>
>
>

I picked up a copy of Popular Science magazine the other day
In the back of the magazine in the classified section 12 adds
selling Test Modules, 1-800 numbers, taking visa, offering
technical info. They must say in the add not for illegal use 
for testing only. That is only a legal disclaimer.  They
wont to sell as many as they can to anyone that wonts them
Sounds good to me Looks pretty good to me.     


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun May  5 13:56:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!news.dra.com!news.mid.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 23 Apr 1996 15:43:45 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4litrh$6d1@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <4l3ul8$c4@news2.noc.netcom.net> <101260270@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
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brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:
>OK, how about Atlas shaper paint?  My 7" shaper got painted an ivory-yellow,
>and the stand got that interesting shade of puke-green common in the
>50's 
>As far as I can tell, the stand was originally a dark gray, but I'd like
>to know what the shaper color originally was.  


Don't feel too bad--my Atlas Shaper ended up battle ship grey.  There are a few 
greenish spots where the grey rubbed off and the green looks a lot like the color on 
my 12 inch Atlas lathe (which I believe to be the original paint). Its a sort of 
lima bean color and it won't win any prizes. At least from an esthetic stand point, 
your ivory yellow doesn't sound too bad, But if you really want to be authentic, you 
might give the Clausing folks a call (check Thomas Register): they could probably 
give you the receipe for the original paint. I'll be curious to see what you find 
out.

Roger Weppelman 



From lmcgee Sun May  5 13:56:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee McGee <lmcgee>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 23 Apr 1996 22:47:23 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4ljmlr$qco@murrow.corp.sgi.com>
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The machine is called an "English Wheel".  You can probably find
information on the Web about them.

You can also bang it up with a ballpeen hammer and a shot bag; think of
it as first trying to destroy the workpiece (to stretch the aluminum into
shape you want), and then carefully tap it back smooth using a dolly
or any other appropriate surface of your own devising.


-- 
    Lee McGee        lmcgee@corp.sgi.com               |                  
    (415)933-2403   FAX (415)933-5748     GRUMMAN     _|_   
                                          AA-5B  ____/___\____ 
    "When I fly, I feel an isolation      ___________[=o=]___________
     extreme and radiant"                 TIGER    e/  o  \e 
	- Peter Garrison



From jsp@u.washington.edu Sun May  5 13:56:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pre -weld cleaning of Al (Vacuum Quality)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 18:33:45 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
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In-Reply-To: <4lhs36$3427@ns1-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>

You will probably get better answers from others, but I would try a
solution of lye, and then rinse with water.
			Cheers,




From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:56:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!willis.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sawzall, jig saw, something else?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 16:21:58 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Chris,

A Sawzall or jig saw are inadequate to do the job.

A large vertical or horizontal bandsaw would do 
the job.

You might try LSC metals on Monterey Highway to
see if they have a piece of scrap plate or channel
of the correct size.  It might be less expensive
to buy close to the correct size than have a piece
hogged out of larger plate.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus





From akvas@paco.net Sun May  5 13:56:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27237 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: akvas@paco.net (Bezerman Micle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: We offer steel ropes made of uncoated and galvanized wire  ofthe following most widely spread constructions. - offer.txt [1/1]
Date: 23 Apr 1996 11:17:16 GMT
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From SSCards@metrolink.net Sun May  5 13:56:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27238 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: SSCards@metrolink.net (Scott )
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 16:00:35 GMT
References: <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net>
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This surely doesn't belong in this group!!!
can't e-mail   @(ctv)
@ (ctv) wrote:

>MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!

>Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
>Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
>about 10 minutes to do!

>If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to 
>four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
>(It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
>about ten to forty dollars!

>Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's 
>simple to install, and they descramble all channels
>on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!

>For more information, and a complete list of companies
>that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
>$7.95 to:

>Sierra CTV
>P.O. Box 1203
>Secaucus, NJ
>07096-1203







From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:56:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27239 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SUS VS SAE viscosity
Message-ID: <1996Apr23.112649.22748@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Apr 96 11:26:48 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4lgquv$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
|>I noticed this thread go by when it did, but didn't save the
|>info because I hadn't yet found my own SB lathe.
|>
|>Now I have, and many of the articles have expired. Alta Vista
|>helped me find the comparison between SUS and SAE; did anyone
|>ever post a table comparing ISO as well? Could you please
|>repost it (or mail it to me)?

I couldn't find any SUS/ISO table in the archives (anon ftp to
plains.uwyo.edu /metal/).  I suppose you could try to find an
SAE/ISO chart to translate the translations :-)

|>This is the sort of thing that would do well to be in the FAQ or
|>on the MetalWeb News page...

No, and Yes.  Keep in mind the FAQ is "Frequently Asked/Answered Questions"
and this is not frequently asked.  However, it is good info and I will
probably incorporate it into the web pages at Plains, creating a new
section called "Reference".  I'll let somebody else answer for the Metal
Web News, since I don't maintain them.

Jim


From aburmest@ucsd.edu Sun May  5 13:56:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27240 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!info.ucla.edu!library.ucla.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!sdcc12.ucsd.edu!usenet
From: aburmest@ucsd.edu (Alex Burmester)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Surplus Aluminum in San Diego?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 01:54:25 GMT
Organization: UCSD
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I'm looking for some surplus aluminum rounds (short lengths, less than 1ft)

Anyone know of a place near San Diego or even as far north as LA that
I might try?

Thanks,

Alex.



From tonylos@village.ios.com Sun May  5 13:56:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27241 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ios.com!usenet
From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Southbend Lathe for Sale - 16" x 6' - Good Condition
Date: 24 Apr 1996 01:51:43 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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Southbend Lathe for Sale - 

Heavy Duty Toolroom Lathe 16" Swing  with 6' bed.

Quick Change gears, large dia. spindle (#5 morse), Taper attachment,
Thread dial, War Production Board model, 3-jaw,4 jaw, 3-phase motor.
16 spindle speeds, 4 - 224 tpi on quick change gears, single tumbler
Mahine in use and ready for demo. Need to make room in shop.
located on Long Island, NY.



From jshelley@trader.com Sun May  5 13:56:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27242 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!tcnntp.trader.com!not-for-mail
From: Jeff Shelley <jshelley@trader.com>
Subject: Build a Stradivarius Violin Replica
Message-ID: <317D8501.6A92@trader.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:33:53 -0500
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See our site for plans:  http://www.trader.com/users/9675/4883/ss01001.htm



From postar@voicenet.com Sun May  5 13:56:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27243 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: postar@voicenet.com (Edward French)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: backyard welding??
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:01:26 -0500
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hello, this humble knownothin asks this question: can i use a welder (what
type?) to weld together auto engine parts (cranks, axles...) in my
backyard. this thing will be kept outside through extreme
weather...?...thanks

-- 
hug the day


From tonylos@village.ios.com Sun May  5 13:56:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27244 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ios.com!usenet
From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 24 Apr 1996 01:37:23 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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Message-ID: <4lk0kj$n7p@news.ios.com>
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To: docjfg@foto.infi.net

Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net> wrote:
>Hello Everyone,
>
>Have been reading this newsgroup for a couple of weeks, and really
>enjoy clicking here! Nice to find folks with the same interests.
>
>I'm sure the following is not an original idea, but would like some
>opinions:
>          I've read (and re-read and re-read) Connelly's book-just
>          fascinating! However, in reconditioning a metal lathe, why
>          not use Tig welding to build up the worn areas of the ways.
>          Just a small section at the time. The original, untouched
>          "ends" would be preserved and used as the reference for
>          grinding/scraping the built-up areas.
>
>          This would seem to have some advantages, one being the
>          elimination of shafting realignments.
>
>                       What do you think?
>                  ******************************
>

Me thinks ya ain't no welding cast iron with TIG. No to mention the 
problems with warping the bed due to unequal heating.



From tonylos@village.ios.com Sun May  5 13:56:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27245 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ios.com!usenet
From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 24 Apr 1996 01:37:37 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4lk0l1$n7p@news.ios.com>
References: <3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net>
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To: docjfg@foto.infi.net

Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net> wrote:
>Hello Everyone,
>
>Have been reading this newsgroup for a couple of weeks, and really
>enjoy clicking here! Nice to find folks with the same interests.
>
>I'm sure the following is not an original idea, but would like some
>opinions:
>          I've read (and re-read and re-read) Connelly's book-just
>          fascinating! However, in reconditioning a metal lathe, why
>          not use Tig welding to build up the worn areas of the ways.
>          Just a small section at the time. The original, untouched
>          "ends" would be preserved and used as the reference for
>          grinding/scraping the built-up areas.
>
>          This would seem to have some advantages, one being the
>          elimination of shafting realignments.
>
>                       What do you think?
>                  ******************************
>

Me thinks ya ain't no welding cast iron with TIG. Not to mention the 
problems with warping the bed due to unequal heating.



From Tom.Kane@Litronic.com Sun May  5 13:56:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27246 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!netserv.com!pagesat.net!ni1.ni.net!usenet
From: Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help  on Tube bender!!
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 12:05:02 -0700
Organization: litronic.com
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I to bend 3/3" to 1 1/2" .095 mild steel round tube, but I dont know 
what kind of bender to get. Please help.


From packrat@PEAK.ORG Sun May  5 13:56:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27247 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!willis.cis.uab.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.orst.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!engr.orst.edu!news.PEAK.ORG!odo.PEAK.ORG!not-for-mail
From: packrat@PEAK.ORG (Jon Winlund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 22 Apr 1996 20:40:32 -0700
Organization: CS Outreach Services, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
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Message-ID: <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: peak.org

You will really be sorry if you buy from Enco.

The voice of bitter experience.

packrat@proaxis.com


From gwhite@tiac.net Sun May  5 13:56:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27248 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - how to do it?
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 02:24:14 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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 <4l8idi$6d4@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca> <4l9et1$jnr@news.jhu.edu>
 <4lbo9h$pkd@news.tiac.net> <txCEpHAJqIfxEwCK@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
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In article <txCEpHAJqIfxEwCK@bosagate.demon.co.uk>,
   Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk> wrote:
<In article <4lbo9h$pkd@news.tiac.net>, Doug White <gwhite@tiac.net>
<writes
<
<>I have a small bottle (somewhere) of silver plating powder.  It's a 
<>mixture of silver nitrate, table salt, and cream of tartar (I'm not 
<>kidding).  The original recipe was in an old Ham radio magazine for 
<>silver plating RF components.  You wet a rag, and put some powder on it 
<>to make a paste.  Rub vigorously on brass or copper, and it plates out 
<>right onto the metal.  I think the cream of tartar is used as the flux 
to 
<>remove any residual oxides.  If no one else comes forward with the 
<>proportions soon, I'll see if I can find my bottle and I'll post back.
<>
<>Doug White
<
<Thanks for your post Doug.
<
<I tried something similar with a commercially available fluid but the
<coating was nowhere near uniform enough for my purposes.  I suspect that
<the silver content was a little on the low side.
<
<I should appreciate it if you could post details of the proportions of
<components in your powder/paste as I'm keen to try anything and
<everything to get the results I need.
<
OK, I remembered that I'd loaned my stuff to a friend, and I called him 
to get the proportions off the bottle:

  1 part-by-weight Silver Nitrate
  2 parts-by-weight table salt
  2 parts-by-weight Cream of Tartar

You just mix them together, and apply as instructed above.  After giving 
it some thought, it may only work on copper and copper alloys.  I've 
never tried to get a particularly heavy plating out of it, but I suspect 
that may be difficult or impossible.  One other problem is that the only 
silver nitrate I could ever find comes in fairly coarse crystals.  For 
best performance, you may want to pulverize and sift the ingredients 
before mixing them.

Enjoy!

Doug White


From barnwell@jbshouse.iii.net Sun May  5 13:56:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27249 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barnwell@jbshouse.iii.net (barnwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Acme and Ball Screws available cheap!?!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 03:41:46 GMT
Organization: iii.net subscriber
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I am in Leominster Ma. and would be intrested in where the Junk yard is.
I would like to locate some acme threaded rod cheap. 

There are acme taps that go for around $30 and up but the usual use for acme 
thread stuff is a brass nut pair that allows the removal of end play and these 
nuts are threaded on a lathe to almost the finish size and then "finish tapped" 
with a section of the threaded rod they will used on for a better fit.

The section of threaded rod is from the same rod they will be used on and a 
single flute is ground in the rod to form a crude tap but since it is steel 
cutting brass and just a few thou and only twice it is not all that bad (use 
lots of muscle and oil). the outside of one nut is threaded with a thread much 
finer than the acme thread pitch and the other nut has a hollow barrel on one 
side with a matching fine thread on the inside. these two nuts are threaded 
together and then the acme thread rod is threaded thru and by adjusting the 
distance between the 2 nuts you can take out most of the end play.


In article <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com>, you say...
>
>At the junk yard, I saw two barrels full of beautiful leadscrews
>between 12" and 40" long, between 3/8" and 3/4" diameter.  Some
>were Acme threaded (squareish thread profile) and some were a
>rounded profile that I attribute to ball screws.  The threads
>seemed ground, because they were very highly polished.  These must 
>have been off-cuts or rejects and are available "by the pound" as 
>scrap metal.

snip...

>Personally, I would like to buy some myself, but to use them, I
>will need nuts or a tap, and Acme nuts seem quite expensive.  My
>McMaster-Carr catalog lists 1/2-10 Acme nuts for $3.50 each!  Does 
>anyone know of a really cheap source of Acme nuts?
>
>Can you actually tap an Acme thread?  I guess that I might be
>able to use one of these screws as a tap if I could grind flutes 
>in it.

snip...

>Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
>7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
>Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27250 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Message-ID: <1996Apr24.010237.7883@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 01:02:37 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
Wm. Congreve (Sr.)  <congreve@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
>identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
>very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
>milling machine for surface grinding?

Most surface grinders with which I'm familiar allow pretty precise
adjustment of the grinding wheel - typically in .0005" increments,
less when you have the feel for it.  In addition, not too many
horizontal mills allow 3600 RPM.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sun May  5 13:56:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27251 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!My486!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 19:46:12 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 38
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In article <4likr3$23e@moon.src.honeywell.com> stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer) writes:
>From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
>Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
>Date: 23 Apr 1996 08:09:55 CDT

Although I have no near term plans for visiting that area, Dan's question 
>brings up a site that I have heard about.  I understand there is an old 
>foundary near Boston.  Is is something like Saugus?  Anyway, if there is 
>someone in the area who can answer Dan's question, how about something on 
>that foundary.

The Sagus iron Works. Its a national historic site. It was the first iron 
works in the US. All water powered. A forge blower, an trip hammer and a few 
other items are on display. Nothing working, all static, re-created, displays.

Its been several years since I was there, but I know its still open because I 
pass the sign for it off the freeway every day. 

Sagus is north on rt 128 (or I-95 if you follow the Feds numbers) At about teh 
10:00 oclock position to boston, about 10 miles out.

Also the Charles River Museum of Industry in Waltham MA. (Home to the now one 
month old New England Model Engineering Society). A nice musuem, lots of 
mechanial exhibits. Heavy into watches and clocks- Waltham was known as Watch 
City.

Due west of Boston, about 8 miles. On the Charles river. Easy to reach by 
comuter rail.

About 70 miles south, in East  Greenich RI is the New England Musuem of 
Wireless and Steam. The combination is because the guy that started it likes 
both subjects. They have many LARGE steam engines. They often run them on 
weekends. Its a small place, but some good exhibits. Weekends only, and 
warm season only. 


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From jklessig@slip.net Sun May  5 13:56:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27252 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!su-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!news1.slip.net!news
From: jklessig@slip.net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:45:08 GMT
Organization: Slip.Net
Lines: 42
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:131944 rec.crafts.metalworking:27252

Larry Smith <lcs@zk3.dec.com> wrote:

>I am crossposting this thread to both metalworking and woodworking
>newsgroups, since I've seen pipes made of both materials.  I'm looking
>for information about how to build and tune a pipe, and the relative
>advantages and disadvantages of wood and metal - ease of construction,
>tuning, tone, and so on.  Stories of personal experiences, pointers to
>references in books and so on are all welcome.

Another source not mentioned in the posts that have already followed
up yours, is an old OLD book called 'on divers arts', by a monk named
Theophilus, if I recall correctly he lived in the 9th or 10th cent.
One of the items he describes how to build are several types of wind
chests, and pipes. I must admit that his dirrections for making the
languids confuse me.

The book, in translation is reprinted by Dover, and is a treasure
trove of historical information. 

There is also a privately pyublished manual entitled " how to build a
portative organ" published by DM Swan, Box 322, Greenwood, N.S.
Canada, BOP 1N0

This booklet (which also has a companion video available) discusses
how to make pipes out of common copper pipe.  His focus (and mine) are
related to amking the medieval poratative organ.

The methods he uses in this book do make pipes that work, but are kind
of a pain. But all alternatives I have come up with are not much
better, but some at least look nicer.

The reading I have done indicates  that (within the time frame I am
intresed in) that metal was used for open pipes, and wood for stopped
(closed end) pipes.

I think overall the wood must be easier, because the "train whistle"
pipes I often see at flea markets and craft fairs are actually nothing
but stopped organ pipes blown by mouth.


Chandra



From jklessig@slip.net Sun May  5 13:56:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27253 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jklessig@slip.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone built EDM from HSM plans ?
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:45:19 GMT
Organization: Slip.Net
Lines: 28
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>chris castle (aw992@lafn.org) wrote:

>: Hi ....I was wondering if anyone has built the EDM that has 
>: been going for the last year.

>

>Anyway, I think that his design is a bit too complicated, and can be put
>together with a more general CNC system fairly easily.  I sure would
>like to see what others are doing with it.

>I looked at a few EDM machines at an auction here a few weeks ago.  They
>were awfully simple looking!

I agree with both of the above, I built a simple version of the
original EDM shown in HSM (several years ago) that uses a relaxation
oscillator (which consists of two lightbulbs, the capacitor, and the
arc gap) and manual control. A  fun little device, and very simple.

When I get the time, (yea right)  I am planning on building a proper
one, with pulse controls, and an x-y feed..







From bwinterb@intranet.ca Sun May  5 13:56:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27254 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!worldlinx.com!news.bellglobal.com!ppp6-deep
From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: forming sheet aluminum
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 21:14:57 GMT
Organization: Dis
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Years ago, I read that builders of one-off racing cars used some device 
consisting of a pair of powered wheels pressing together to form sheet 
aluminum into fenders and other body bits. The wheels were turning, presumably 
under the control of the operator, and the sheet was rotated around and sent 
back and forth between the wheels until it had the desired shape.

Does anyone actually know anything about this process, and how one would 
construct the pair of wheels to do the job?

TIA

Bruce Winterbon
(96 April: note slight change of address)
bwinterb@intranet.ca
http://intranet.ca/~bwinterb


From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27255 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!realtime.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - how to do it?
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 04:28:51 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 32
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Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>Hello.

>I hope this is not an inappropriate question for this group.

>I have a need for a simple, cheap (ish) method for plating silver onto
>small items fabricated from copper wire, soldered with tin/lead alloy.

>The operation will have to be "bedroom scale" as space in the workshop
>is at a premium.  

>Does anyone have the answer?  Is anyone doing something like this
>already?  Can you help with it please?

>I wish I'd paid more attention in Chemistry class.

>Which electrode, what voltage, what electrolyte?  You see, I don't know
>where to start.

>Thanks in advance.
> 
>-- 
>Marc Line
The info given using silver nitrate is that used for silver plating
chapter rings of old clocks ,17 and 18 century stuff , long before
todays methods were known .Ithink an amalgum using mercury was used ,
the cream of tarter , if memory serves me was used to  clense the
surface of excess mercury . Any how the result was somewhat fragile
[chapter rings dont get much wear] and is a matt finish unlike modern
plating ,but an attractive soft glow.



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27256 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Acme and Ball Screws available cheap!?!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 00:20:35 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
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In message <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com> - neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)Mon, 22
Apr 1996 21:19:08 GMT writes:
->
->At the junk yard, I saw two barrels full of beautiful leadscrews
->between 12" and 40" long, between 3/8" and 3/4" diameter.  Some
->were Acme threaded (squareish thread profile) and some were a
->rounded profile that I attribute to ball screws.  The threads
->seemed ground, because they were very highly polished.  These must 
->have been off-cuts or rejects and are available "by the pound" as 
->scrap metal.
->
->If anyone is interested in some, let me know and next time I'm 
->there, I'll try to buy them for you.  Contact me directly with
->your thoughts and we can discuss further.  I would do this for
->you at my cost plus shipping, as a favor.
->
->Personally, I would like to buy some myself, but to use them, I
->will need nuts or a tap, and Acme nuts seem quite expensive.  My
->McMaster-Carr catalog lists 1/2-10 Acme nuts for $3.50 each!  Does 
->anyone know of a really cheap source of Acme nuts?

You should be able to find them cheaper. The last ACME nuts I bought were
3/4"-8, left hand thread, they were about $2 ea. at Fastenal Co.

->
->Can you actually tap an Acme thread?  I guess that I might be
->able to use one of these screws as a tap if I could grind flutes 
->in it.  I have never done anything nearly that elegant, and don't
->know the pitfalls or tricks involved.  I also do not have the 
->grinder required.  :-(
->

ACME taps are available, tho they're a bit expensive. I doubt that cutting
flutes on  a screw would work, unless you can harden it later, or the stuff
you're tapping is -real- soft.

->I am thinking of using some screws as part of a veneer press.
->I would cut them into 12" lengths and use each screw with a
->crank head, flange nut, and pivoting pad as an individual
->pressure screw, in a piece of lumber or stiff U channel.



pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27257 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!realtime.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you calculate the strength of aluminum pipe?
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 04:37:56 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4lkb6o$prs@mule1.mindspring.com>
References: <4lh7tb$ebf@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

aburmest@ucsd.edu (Alex Burmester) wrote:

>Will someone share the equation for the strength of aluminum tubing?

>Specifically, a short tube supported at both ends and loaded in the 
>middle by a rope slung over the tubing.

>Factors would be wall thickness, length and diameter.

>Just a good estimate is all I need, nothing fancy and let's
>assume 6061-T6 aluminum.

>Thanks much,

>Alex.
> 
Use the engineers bending formula  M/I=f/y . Where  M =moment ,   I
=momertof inertia ,f =allowable stress [say 1% proof] , and y=
distance to neutral axis  .most of this stuff is available in
handbooks
    mike 




From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27258 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!realtime.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Southbend Lathe for Sale - 16" x 6' - Good Condition
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 04:44:09 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4lkbid$prs@mule1.mindspring.com>
References: <4lk1ff$n7p@news.ios.com>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com> wrote:

>Southbend Lathe for Sale - 

>Heavy Duty Toolroom Lathe 16" Swing  with 6' bed.

>Quick Change gears, large dia. spindle (#5 morse), Taper attachment,
>Thread dial, War Production Board model, 3-jaw,4 jaw, 3-phase motor.
>16 spindle speeds, 4 - 224 tpi on quick change gears, single tumbler
>Mahine in use and ready for demo. Need to make room in shop.
>located on Long Island, NY.

I have been talking about sherline lathes on this group, but 16"swing
and 6' bed , thats what I call a lathe.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:56:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27259 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone built EDM from HSM plans ?
Date: 23 Apr 1996 19:14:54 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4lja7e$79d@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <1996Apr23.030453.9810@lafn.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@lime.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

chris castle (aw992@lafn.org) wrote:

: Hi ....I was wondering if anyone has built the EDM that has 
: been going for the last year.

I have been following this for a while.  Since I have a roper-whitney
punch press, I have a use for such a machine (making square dies).
I think that once I convert my Bridgeport to CNC, which I am collecting
parts for, all I would need is a device to lock the spindle from rotating,
and a collet/insulator fixture that would fit in the spindle, and I could
use most of the mill features as part of the machine.

Bob Langlois makes it look awfully complicated by dragging out the plans
and including all the info on building your own PCB shop for this one
project.  I think he thinks this will somehow insulate him from legal
liability for damage or injuries!  I communicated with him on a different
newsgroup about 1 1/2 years ago about PCB making and the legal aspects of
build it yourself project kits.

Anyway, I think that his design is a bit too complicated, and can be put
together with a more general CNC system fairly easily.  I sure would
like to see what others are doing with it.

I looked at a few EDM machines at an auction here a few weeks ago.  They
were awfully simple looking!

					Jon



From thor@expressway.com Sun May  5 13:56:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27260 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!hoho.quake.net!hilbert.dnai.com!usenet
From: thor@expressway.com (Michael Wood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where to find SS screen
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 04:17:57 GMT
Organization: expressway
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4lka47$e64@hilbert.dnai.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.182.6.159
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I'm currently trying to fabricate a false bottom for a stainless steel
kettle and am having problems finding the material. I need light
(18ga) stainless sheet with small holes in it like 3/32". I've seen
this material in already fabricated projects. Does anyone know of a
supplier who might carry this and sell it in small qty's?

Mike



From evergold@lm.com Sun May  5 13:56:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27261 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!evergold
From: evergold@lm.com
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 10:07:45 GMT
Organization: Evergold Company
Lines: 125
Message-ID: <4lkuhh$c5b@scramble.lm.com>
References: <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net>
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Dear Postmaster@earthlink.net,
Dear Postmaster@alter.net,
Dear spam victims reading various newsgroups,

Below is a message which I discovered in rec.arts.jewelry:


Let's get to the bottom of this spam.  Who posted this?
The spammer used an invalid return address (intentionally, in my opinion)
Within the full header of this message, the path points to earthlink.net
and to alter.net...

Will copies of this complaint to the postmasters of those systems spur them
to preventing future irresponsible posts from their site, at least from this 
spammer?

Isn't it "crap like this, from internet maggots like this" that invites 
government intervention/legislation ala the CDA?  Particular to this message,
the proffered "warez" in fact both encourage and invite a criminal act: theft 
of cable services!  

This spam doesn't represent "a guy with an idea to make money, innocently
pursuing his right to free speech (via the net)" -- not at all!  Ignore him
and he'll go away?!?  No, because this spam is indicative of a growing trend.
Bums(spammers)like this know the ropes; They selfishly, disrespectfully 
subject a tremendous number of us (usenet readers) to their spewed, 
cross-posted drivel, armed with the knowledge that their bogus return 
addresses will prevent mailbombing from their victims. Oooh, the power of 
technology!!!

I shudder to think that some few poor fools would actually respond to this 
"spamvertisement" by sending money to a Secaucus post office box. However,
my more immediate concern is the infernal fact that this spam has already
become a thread in each/all of our affected newsgroups. The message's bang
path (?) that enabled the cross-post in the first place carries replies to
it back to every reader in each group!

The "internet providers of the world" as well as their populace -- both 
commercial and private/individual users -- need to realize an alarming
fact. Many people reading usenet lead busy lives and refuse to tolerate
the "noise" created by undesirable/ inappropriate messages such as this spam
-- and, considering the trend for spammers to utilize "bombproof" addressing,
disgusted internet users reading usenet increasingly choose to filter out 
*ALL* messages originating from a spammer's host system/domain!!!

This complaint/ call-to-arms is (at the moment) being sent to only the 
affected (cross-posted)groups.  If necessary, in the near future, this message 
may become (the first?) an "anti-spam spam" across thousands of newsgroups.

With the hope of discouraging the growing trend of usenet abuse,
let's make an example of this spammer.  No lynching, no flaming, no 
name-calling -- but more appropriate means of recourse.  Let's start by
giving the postmaster of the spammer's host system a chance to reply...
Failing a public promise from that host that the spammer (or all users within 
the host's domain) has been advised-slash-educated-slash-warned to NEVER 
repeat this improper utilization of usenet...


..let's email users on that host system, advising them of the situation and
pointing out that when we EN MASSE proceed to filter out any/all messages
>from  their host (because the host continues to allow the spammer to "live"
there)-- they, effectively, will find themselves ostracized from the entire 
gamut of usenet newsgroups!

If the above fails to bring satisfactory response, let's not only filter out
all messages from the site...but advocate that others (not yet victimized in
their newsgroups) join in the punititive effort.  At that point, we can advise
others through use of sigfiles stating
         "the spamsites blacklist -- filter 'em out!"
followed by a list of the noncompliant hosts/domains. 

Taking unified action will, at the very least, allow us to "police our own 
ranks"....or should we wait for BigBrother to come to the "rescue"?!?
  
ARE YOU PAYING ATTENTION, EARTHLINK.NET ADMINISTRATION?
  OWNERS OF ALTER.NET -- HOW ABOUT YOU?

> Organization: Your Organization Lines: 26 Message-ID:
> <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net> NNTP-Posting-Host:
> pool003.max1.newark.nj.dynip.alter.net X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.14
> Xref: scramble.lm.com rec.collecting.dolls:13035
> rec.collecting.phonecards:4492 rec.collecting.postal-history:839
> rec.collecting.sport.baseball:89775
> rec.collecting.sport.basketball:58532
> rec.collecting.sport.football:77748
> rec.collecting.sport.hockey:44599 rec.collecting.sport.misc:6536
> rec.collecting.stamps:27288 rec.collecting.villages:2652
> rec.crafts.beads:7039 rec.crafts.brewing:88251
> rec.crafts.dollhouses:1209 rec.crafts.glass:1936
> rec.crafts.jewelry:11445 rec.crafts.marketplace:6878
> rec.crafts.metal working:27348 rec.crafts.misc:20782
> rec.crafts.polymer-clay:5174 rec.crafts.pottery:1681 Status: N



In article <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net>, @ (ctv) wrote:
>MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
>
>Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
>Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
>about 10 minutes to do!
>
>If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to 
>four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
>(It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
>about ten to forty dollars!
>
>Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's 
>simple to install, and they descramble all channels
>on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!
>
>For more information, and a complete list of companies
>that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
>$7.95 to:
>
>Sierra CTV
>P.O. Box 1203
>Secaucus, NJ
>07096-1203

-----
For good measure, I'm mailing a paper copy of this correspondence to the
USPS postmaster at Secaucus.  You are welcome to print this and mail your own
copy to same.
-----


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27262 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help  on Tube bender!!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 03:50:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 32
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lkmfj$9h3@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <317D29DE.7A66@Litronic.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

From: Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com> wrote :

>I  (need)  to bend  3/3"  (3/4")  to 1 1/2" .095 mild steel round tube,
but I dont know 
>what kind of bender to get. Please help.

It would help if you said what shape you need to bend it into.
Rings, coils, frames, exhaust pipes.
 I have been cold bending 1-1/4" x 0.095" wall , tubing for the last
month, and I've been doing it by hand with a racking jig.
Low tech but more versatile than any power roller.
What ever you end up doing, never buy a tubing roller from CMS in
Tennesee.
They build junk. We bought one and spent 2 months rebuilding it. Garbage.

Best of luck



@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu Sun May  5 13:56:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27263 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news1.erols.com!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!newserve!bb05282
From: bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 24 Apr 1996 10:42:34 GMT
Organization: Binghamton University, Binghamton, NY
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu>
References: <4lhrnv$58d@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.226.1.2
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

WRitt (writt@aol.com) wrote:
: Just received more Sherline  retro-fit literature today. IMHO $5,000 for a
:  CNC Sherline mill is nothing  short of  obscene! I can buy the standard
: mill for  less than $500.  Can anyone tell me  why it must cost 900% more 
: for the  retro-fit? With a profit margin like this I am in the wrong
: business. Just venting <G>.

: Bill Rittner


: I agree & 2nd this motion: retrofit prices are shamelessly obscene. 
: Little wonder manufacturing is going & has gone abroad. We can't afford 
: to upgrade our equipment.
: Ashoke Nijhowne.


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27264 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 10:50:41 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4ll121$4fm@news.dwave.net>
References: <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net><4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net> <4ljm6v$288@ghost.shsu.edu>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
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In message <4ljm6v$288@ghost.shsu.edu> - vis_axm@shsu.edu writes:
<junk deleted> 
->technical info. They must say in the add not for illegal use 
->for testing only. That is only a legal disclaimer.  They
->wont to sell as many as they can to anyone that wonts them
->Sounds good to me Looks pretty good to me.     

Is free TV really worth a stay in prison?




From chuckh@NetHeaven.com Sun May  5 13:56:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27265 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!usenet
From: chuckh@netheaven.com (Chuck Holcomb)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:29:23 GMT
Organization: AltNet - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4ll00a$j35@tofu.alt.net>
References: <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net> <317d022f.0@news.metrolink.net>
Reply-To: chuckh@NetHeaven.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
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SSCards@metrolink.net (Scott ) wrote:

>This surely doesn't belong in this group!!!
>can't e-mail   @(ctv)
>@ (ctv) wrote:

Scott,

Two things. First, I'm sure the original spammer just loves you to
death for RE-spamming his ad for him, to every newgroup he hit before.
Second, if you look in the header, you'll find that you _can_ e-mail
postmaster@earthlink.net.

-
Chuck Holcomb
chuckh@netheaven.com
++

A termite walks into a bar, and says, "Bartender?"

++



From gedwards@onramp.net Sun May  5 13:56:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27266 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.consultix.com!newshost.cyberramp.net!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help with Sheldon Wood Lathe
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:35:28 -0500
Organization: On-Ramp; Individual Internet Connections; Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <317F0110.2F92@onramp.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: laurel28.onramp.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I)

I have a friend with a Sheldon Wood Lathe - cast iron, flat belt drive, 
model 557.  He is looking for any and all information he can get..books, 
advertisements, catalogs, parts and accessories resources, etc.  Please 
post a reply and or email me if you can help.


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27267 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Acme and Ball Screws available cheap!?!
Date: 23 Apr 1996 19:52:34 GMT
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In <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com> neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff) writes: 
>
<snip>
>
>Can you actually tap an Acme thread?  I guess that I might be
>able to use one of these screws as a tap if I could grind flutes 
>in it.  I have never done anything nearly that elegant, and don't
>know the pitfalls or tricks involved.  I also do not have the 
>grinder required.  :-(
>
>I am thinking of using some screws as part of a veneer press.
>I would cut them into 12" lengths and use each screw with a
>crank head, flange nut, and pivoting pad as an individual
>pressure screw, in a piece of lumber or stiff U channel.
>
>Suggestions?
>--
>Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
>7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
>Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564

Bob -

Acme taps are available but you may find them a bit expensive just to
make a few nuts.  You will require two taps BTW, one for roughing and
the other for finishing.  If you only need a few nuts, why don't you
just single point them?

Regards, Dale



From brnzcaster@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27268 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 24 Apr 1996 06:18:14 -0400
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Don
See my webpage re Hobby Metalcasting at
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
Winston

*****
Winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
BrnzCaster@aol.com (or) 73754.3177@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
*****


From alwine@tiac.net Sun May  5 13:56:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27269 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alwine@tiac.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 12:01:00 GMT
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The Saugus Iron works In Saugus Mass is definitely a must-see
for anyone even slightly interested in ironworking.  It is a
restored iron manufactory from the 1500's, and includes a
fantastic rolling and slitting mill which is powered by two
water wheels and turned by big wooden gears.  

It is run by the national park service.

Hope you get to see it.

Doug Alwine



From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27270 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Enco 4" Milling Vise/Keyless Drill Chuck
Date: 23 Apr 1996 17:38:31 -0400
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 Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> writes:

>If you ever notice the center of the ways on a Kurt
>or other vice, see how they discolor?  That is because
>the way becomes hollow or 'U' shaped over time.  A
>good grind job will clean that up and prevent it from
>reforming if - if - if the vise is well aged before hand.

Ah ha!  *That* explains the 'stains' I've noticed on my 4" Enco. I
couldn't imagine what the heck it was. No amount of cleaning and oiling
made any difference. 
Mine, however, must have been pre-aged, because it arrived that way.

I've been thinking about machining a pair of 'soft' steel jaws, in situ,
with a small ledge at the bottom of each one to hold the parallel - not
depend on the ways at all. This make any sense to anyone, or not? This
way, I should have a reasonably accurate 'hold', as long as the jaws don't
get dinged-up.

Would it make any sense to (down) taper the moving jaw slightly to
compensate for the 'lift', or am I making things unnecessarily more
complicated (worse)?

Sorry to hear that Kurt is 'less' than perfect. I'd always hoped to have
one someday, along with nothing but Albrecht chucks. First the Easter
Bunny, then Santa Clause ....

Did anyone buy one of the 0-3/8" keyless chucks that Enco had on sale last
month?
I got one of the 0-1/2" and a 3/8". The 1/2" appears to actually be that
elusive Enco bargain, but there's axial play in the jaws of the 3/8"
(which is made quite a bit more cheaply than the 1/2") and it has a fair
amount of runout, presumably because of the play. Anyone else take the
bait?

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27271 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 24 Apr 1996 12:16:12 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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I have a 1950 Logan 920 11" lathe. After reconditioning
it, I used rustoleum "clean metal primer" and then their
royal blue. Sort of flowed it on with a brush on each
piece as the lathe was taken down to the individual
pieces. That was 3+ years ago and it has held up well.
The places where the blue has gotten bunged about is
still covered by the primer. It's good paint and looks
good.

Charlie



From bfairey@hookup.net Sun May  5 13:56:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27272 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gas Turbines
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 02:41:48 GMT
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Dont see any messages on DIY gas turbines? is there a seperate
newsgroup for that subject?



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27273 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 13:28:18 GMT
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Yes, there's Saugus Iron Works, I think it's called.  I've never
been there, but I've heard about it.  It's basically a museum,
showing how iron was made in colonial days.  I don't think they
actually smelt iron there anymore, but the brochure I saw looked
interesting.  Whether this is a place "not to be missed" is, I
guess, your call.

A bit farther afield is Old Sturbridge Village, which has a 
working blacksmith shop. There's also a tinsmith, broom maker,
sawyer (with water-powered sawmill), shoemaker, cooper, and other 
trades doing their thing.  One can easily spend a day there, 
wandering around.  The focus is early 19th century life in general, 
so the metalworking aspects of it are somewhat peripheral, but I 
find the whole place interesting.
  





From vince49@usa.pipeline.com Sun May  5 13:56:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27274 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vince49@usa.pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 12:56:15 GMT
Organization: PSINet/Pipeline USA
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>Is there any good reason (except for the problem of 
>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal 
>milling machine for surface grinding? 
 
I just bought a used surface grinder (Boyer Schultz 6 x 12  $ 1200) and I
love it. I had been grinding as you suggest and found I couldn't get a good
surface finish. The x feed on a surface grinder is designed rapid travel
which is important , the vertical is designed for very small adjustments, 
the bearings are designed for 3600 rpm with little error.  For me it was  a
much better solution then using my mill. I now consider a surface grinder
ESSENTIAL.  
 



From dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us Sun May  5 13:56:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27275 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us (Donald I. Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 03:04:02
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I do a fair amount of plastic work, using all kinds of epoxies and plastics to 
make custom little parts.  Now I want to move up to casting of small (6" x 6" 
x 6" max) aluminum parts.

About 20 years ago in high school, we did a lot of small sand castings.  Hear 
are the things I remember:

1) Used scrap metal, old car rims, old alum soda cans, and many other true 
scrap pieces;

2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 
(spelling ?);

3) "cleaned-up" the metal goop by adding a flux and skimming the garbage;

4) Packed wold in sand (wet) and beat it tight into a wood frame, split the 
fram and removed the "mold or form item", inserted a metal spout (2 I think 1 
in and 1 "out");

5) BINGO, a metal part.

I amy also consider a "lost" mold process using wax or oter material that 
burns out when aluminum is poured in.

Now what I don't know, and need help with:

Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 
it I hope)

Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

Q5) Am I better off using a lost wax type method for small parts ?  I will 
only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 
and die grinders, etc. ?

Thanks for any help and comments.  Please feel free to repsond either to the 
list or direct EMail.  Direct is probably better, but to the list may be of 
much more interest to others.  If direct, I will forward copies to the list.

Thans again.

Don Baker
dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27276 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Message-ID: <1996Apr24.121919.22780@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4l3ul8$c4@news2.noc.netcom.net> <101260270@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <4litrh$6d1@tin.monsanto.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:19:19 GMT
Lines: 23

In article <4litrh$6d1@tin.monsanto.com>,
Roger M Weppelman  <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe> wrote:
>Don't feel too bad--my Atlas Shaper ended up battle ship grey.  There
>are a few greenish spots where the grey rubbed off and the green looks
>a lot like the color on my 12 inch Atlas lathe (which I believe to be
>the original paint). Its a sort of lima bean color and it won't win
>any prizes. At least from an esthetic stand point, your ivory yellow
>doesn't sound too bad, But if you really want to be authentic, you
>might give the Clausing folks a call (check Thomas Register): they
>could probably give you the receipe for the original paint. I'll be
>curious to see what you find out.

What I did on my 12" Atlas (deom Craftsman, if that affects the color)
was to find some parts that hadn't been affected by wear at all, or
grime too much, and take them in and get a computer match with a
decent enamel.  It came out too close to tell the difference between
adjacent surfaces, new and old.  Now all the Metal Lathe Accessories 
kits I make are the right color.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From dwilkins@northernnet.com Sun May  5 13:56:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27277 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dwilkins@northernnet.com (Don Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - how to do it?
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On Wed, 24 Apr 96 02:24:14 GMT, gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White) wrote:

Whole bunch of stuff snipped.
>OK, I remembered that I'd loaned my stuff to a friend, and I called him 
>to get the proportions off the bottle:
>
>  1 part-by-weight Silver Nitrate
>  2 parts-by-weight table salt
>  2 parts-by-weight Cream of Tartar
>
>You just mix them together, and apply as instructed above.  After giving 
>it some thought, it may only work on copper and copper alloys.  I've 
>never tried to get a particularly heavy plating out of it, but I suspect 
>that may be difficult or impossible.  One other problem is that the only 
>silver nitrate I could ever find comes in fairly coarse crystals.  For 
>best performance, you may want to pulverize and sift the ingredients 
>before mixing them.
This reaction is driven by the reduction of silver ions to the metal
by the copper. You will never build up a thick layer because as soon
as the copper is completely covered with silver there is nothing to
drive the reaction.

You get a similar type of reaction when you dip a knife (iron) blade
into a copper solution. It is called internal electrolysis and is
useful for applying an extremely thin layer.
  _               _   _                  Für d' Flöh gibts a Pulver 
 (_|   |   |_/o  | | | |  o              für d' Schuah gibts a Wix, 
   |   |   |     | | | |      _  _    ,   für'n Durst gibts a Wasser
   |   |   |  |  |/  |/_) |  / |/ |  / \_  bloss fuer d' Dummheit gibts nix.
    \_/ \_/   |_/|__/| \_/|_/  |  |_/ \/ 
                                         
                                         
 



From acande00@lex.infi.net Sun May  5 13:56:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27278 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Aaron Anderson <acande00@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Strength of electoplated vs. cast nickel
Date: 24 Apr 1996 15:51:56 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Hi,

Newbie question of the day.  How does the strength and fatigue life of 
electroplated nickel compare to cast nickel?  

Thanks for any replies,

Aaron Anderson



From timtroyr@ionet.net Sun May  5 13:56:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27279 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: timtroyr@ionet.net (Tim Robinson)
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
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In article <4lkuhh$c5b@scramble.lm.com>, evergold@lm.com wrote:
>Dear Postmaster@earthlink.net,
>Dear Postmaster@alter.net,
>Dear spam victims reading various newsgroups,
[lotsa stuff clipped]

Look, it happens.  Keep your life simple.  Just forward the damn spam to the 
postmaster at the host.  Lots of people do and no postmaster wants to wade 
through that.  Bombing the spammer may be irritating, but legitimate 
forwarding to his postmaster by lots of people will irk someone with power.  
Can you say "blackball?"



| Tim Robinson                   | Those who would give up essential |
| timtroyr@ionet.net             | liberty to purchase a little      |
| Excalibur BBS: 918-445-3091    | temporary safety, deserve neither |
| http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr | liberty nor safety.  Ben Franklin |


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:56:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27280 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEED steady rest for SB 10K
Message-ID: <1996Apr24.084515.22775@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 24 Apr 96 08:45:15 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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|>Jim, Could you post alittle more information on the Metal Lathe
|>Accessories foundry in PA. Like what sort of stuff they cast and phone
|>numbers and such. I want to make a steady rest and follower rest for
|>my clausing 12x36 if possible someday.


>From  the FAQ:

   -  Metal Lathe Accessories
      Box 88
      Pine Grove Mills, PA  16868

      Mostly castings and raw-parts kits for common and useful lathe
      accessories, mostly for lathes similar to 9- or 10-inch South
      Bend and Atlas-style units.  A T-slot cross slide, rear mounting
      tool post, faceplate, milling attachment, boring/facing head,
      large steady rest, boring and ball-turning tool post, and others.
      Also a toolpost grinder kit.  You can order kits, or just drawings.


From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27281 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: posting refusals in this news group
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:49:35 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4llpic$qkk@mule1.mindspring.com>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I seem to be having problems postimg in this newsgroup .When I post a
reply I get "sorry an online error occurred whenposting article.Reason
error reported byserver441article not posted,moreinc textthannew
text"Please tell me whats wrong and how I can correct it 
thanks mike



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:56:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27282 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:12:09 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4llqtq$7vn@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

tonylos (tonylos@village.ios.com) wrote:
: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net> wrote:
: >Hello Everyone,
: >
<snip>
: >          fascinating! However, in reconditioning a metal lathe, why
: >          not use Tig welding to build up the worn areas of the ways.
: >          Just a small section at the time. The original, untouched
: >          "ends" would be preserved and used as the reference for
: >          grinding/scraping the built-up areas.
: >

: Me thinks ya ain't no welding cast iron with TIG. Not to mention the 
: problems with warping the bed due to unequal heating.

Even if a TIG (or MIG) technique can be found for welding onto gray cast
iron, you would still have the problem that it would be most difficult to
scrape, for two reasons.
1) It would be a heat-treated material, as all weldments are, and annealing
	it would be very difficult, without a massive oven.
2) it would be pretty lumpy, and scraping works best when the metal is 
	already machined flat, and of uniform hardness.


From 74036.2507@CompuServe.COM Sun May  5 13:56:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27283 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!willis.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Tom Poulin <74036.2507@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electrolytic Derusting?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 01:44:11 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4lk11b$er9$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>

Hello Marc

THere's a museum in Provincetown RI which does this on a regular
basis and is working on some old cannons and such.  They are not
too stingy with information and know a bit about it.

TOm


From kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com Sun May  5 13:56:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27284 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!transcom.capcon.net!usenet
From: kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Subject: Re: posting refusals in this news group
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: 198.253.99.102
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Sender: usenet@capcon.net (News admin)
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:31:20 GMT
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On Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:49:35 GMT, mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael
John Hide) wrote:

>I seem to be having problems postimg in this newsgroup .When I post a
>reply I get "sorry an online error occurred whenposting article.Reason
>error reported byserver441article not posted,moreinc textthannew
>text"Please tell me whats wrong and how I can correct it 
>thanks mike
>

The key to your error is the crytic "moreinc textthannew text"
message. If you spread it out and insert some spaces it says:
"More included text than new text".... those programmers and their
crytpic messages..... Your news server wants to keep quoted text
smaller than the new text in replies. Just make sure you only include
the portion of the original msg you absolutely need

A news reader I have used "WinVn" sometimes would say "busy, what a
bit", which meant try again in a little while.... :^)

Kevin


From mtn-cw@whistler.net Sun May  5 13:56:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27285 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news.sojourn.com!news.eecs.umich.edu!newshub.tc.umn.edu!umn.edu!skypoint.com!news.cyberstore.ca!usenet
From: mtn-cw@whistler.net (mtn-cw)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum plate anodizing help please
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:05:34 GMT
Organization: Whistler Networks (Whistler, B.C.)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4llqhe$ic1@scipio.cyberstore.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wh-ppp-5.cyberstore.ca
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.5


Has anybody had any experience with home-brew plate-aluminum anodizing. 
I've seen some very stunning results which have perked my curiousity.
Where do you get the dyes, or can you make them. What voltages are used in the 
anodizing progess, what temperatures, how long. How do you know when the
dyes are near depletion? I guess what I need is a general FAQ on the
process.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Mitch Thornton   mtn-cw@whistler.net


From roseleaf@Prairie.Lakes.com Sun May  5 13:56:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27286 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!News2.Lakes.com!Prairie.Lakes.com!roseleaf
From: "Sheri G." <roseleaf@Prairie.Lakes.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted: Loctite Cab Settings
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:15:39 -0500
Organization: Prairie Lakes Internet 
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.3.91.960424131454.20613I-100000@Prairie.Lakes.com>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I'm Looking for "Loctite" settings for cabs and faceted gemstones.
In surgical steel or any other base metal.  I am mostly looking    
for cab settings with one or two loops to attatch jump rings.

I know that Fire Mountain, Tripp's, and River Gems&Findings have
these settings in Gold and Sterling Silver (but no other metal).

I am looking for Loctite type settings in a base metal, probably steel
but I'm interested in any base metal....

Thanks for your help!! 

 Sheri Graber  (roseleaf@prairie.lakes.com)  Mankato, Minnesota USA *
 http://prairie.lakes.com/~roseleaf <-- A WWW Fibromyalgia Resource *
*********************************************************************



From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27287 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!nobody
From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Surplus Aluminum in San Diego?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:47:02 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4llsv6$ih@news.sdd.hp.com>
References: <4lk1kh$rcl@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlge8.sdd.hp.com

In article <4lk1kh$rcl@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, aburmest@ucsd.edu (Alex Burmester) writes:
|> I'm looking for some surplus aluminum rounds (short lengths, less than 1ft)
|> 
|> Anyone know of a place near San Diego or even as far north as LA that
|> I might try?
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|> Alex.
|> 

Escondido Surplus Sales, on W. Mission.
Handy MetalMart, Cleveland, National City
Rogers, Cuyamaca, Santee
Able/Ace/???, Kearny Mesa, near Dixieline Store

happy hunting!

Bill



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27288 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:52:50 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4llta2$hfa@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
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To: congreve@ix.netcom.com

Yes.  :-)

Well, sort of.  One reason I can think of is the problem of
feeding the table at a reasonable speed.  Cranking a handwheel
to feed the table of a surface grinder back and forth would
get old real fast.

Now, there were small horizontal milling machines made with 
rack and pinion drive on the X-axis of the table.  They were
used, I think, for slitting operations.  One of those would 
make the process almost reasonable.

You do have the problem of grit though, and getting a fine 
enough downfeed on the grinding wheel might be a bit of a
problem; it would be nice to be able to split thousandths.



From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27289 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM Editorial Policies
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:58:51 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4lltlb$hfa@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <316A4D60.15D7@maroon.tc.umn.edu> <1996Apr10.094223.863@flying-disk.com> <316d616d.0@isnt.mursuky.edu> <4kq43c$50n@newshost.netrix.com> <4lj43d$en5@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
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Locomotive building requires a long-term view of the world.
Back in 1978, Live Steam had an article about a guy building
a 1 1/2" scale 4-8-8-4 (?) Yellowstone locomotive.  The 
latest issue finally describes the finished locomotive.  

Even a simple engine can take a couple of years to build.
It's not a hobby for somebody interested in instant 
gratification.



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun May  5 13:56:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27290 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!news.dra.com!news.mid.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:52:03 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4llt8k$aia@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <4ll8df$l33@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
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vince49@usa.pipeline.com wrote:
> 
>>Is there any good reason..  not to use a horizontal 
>>milling machine for surface grinding? 
> 
>
 I had been grinding as you suggest and found I couldn't get a good
>surface finish. The x feed on a surface grinder is designed rapid travel
>which is important , the vertical is designed for very small adjustments, 
>the bearings are designed for 3600 rpm with little error.  



I offer a different way to skin the cat--mount a tool post grinder in the tool post 
of your shaper: the grinder gives you the right rpm;  the ram gives you the rapid x 
feed noted above; the table gives you automatic y feed; and the down feed screw 
gives you the sensitive verticle adjustment. 

Roger Weppelman



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27291 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Southbend Lathe for Sale - 16" x 6' - Good Condition
Message-ID: <1996Apr24.180255.24285@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4lk1ff$n7p@news.ios.com> <4lkbid$prs@mule1.mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:02:55 GMT
Lines: 21

In article <4lkbid$prs@mule1.mindspring.com>,
Michael John Hide <mikehide@atl.mindspring.com> wrote:
>I have been talking about sherline lathes on this group, but 16"swing
>and 6' bed , thats what I call a lathe.

The first lathe I did real paid work on had about 30" swing and 24'
bed; we needed the through hole in the spindle to run 10" stem
through, so that pretty much sized the rest of the lathe.  It still
feels funny to thread something as small as 8TPI after making the
drill stem collars with .5 TPI (or something that looked that large). 
Air kickout at the end of the cut, too, cause if you missed pulling
the tool all hell would break looks (as well as the toolpost, etc.),
but the kickout sounded like a pistol going off all the time.

Heck, some of the stuff I would on now wouldn't have made good chips
>from  that work.  ;-)

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From john@cirrus.com Sun May  5 13:56:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27292 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.cirrus.com!john
From: john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 20:06:27 GMT
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4lm1k3$m0f@star.cirrus.com>
References: <4lgi94$a22@service2.uky.edu> <4likr3$23e@moon.src.honeywell.com> <ginger.445.00138294@pcm.ultranet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sst051.corp.cirrus.com

In article ... ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) writes:
>
>The Sagus iron Works. Its a national historic site. It was the first iron 
>works in the US. All water powered. A forge blower, an trip hammer and a few 
>other items are on display. Nothing working, all static, re-created, displays.
>
I can recall being there when they demonstrated the rolling mill and
one of the other machines (perhaps a trip hammer?).  During the summer,
I believe, they run some of the waterwheels and show how the equipment
worked.  It was about 4-5 years ago that I last visited with my kids.  

It's a fairly small site overall, but nicely kept and quite
interesting.

John


From rabarker@shore.net Sun May  5 13:56:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27293 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!shore!news
From: rabarker@shore.net (robert a barker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 24 Apr 1996 21:29:58 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4lm6gm$cl9@shore.shore.net>
References: <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.2

In article <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com>, bwinterb@intranet.ca says...
>
>Years ago, I read that builders of one-off racing cars used some device 
>consisting of a pair of powered wheels pressing together to form sheet 
>aluminum into fenders and other body bits. The wheels were turning, 
presumably 
>under the control of the operator, and the sheet was rotated around and 
sent 
>back and forth between the wheels until it had the desired shape.
>
>Does anyone actually know anything about this process, and how one would 
>construct the pair of wheels to do the job?
>
>TIA
>
>Bruce Winterbon
>(96 April: note slight change of address)
>bwinterb@intranet.ca
>http://intranet.ca/~bwinterb

 If you can find a copy of "SPORT AVIATION" Jan 1996 there is an 
excellent article on page 63 that really describes the process very well.

Good Luck

Bob Barker



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27294 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplntx!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Parts Dealer?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 21:05:09 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4lm525$e8o@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <4lf828$113i@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Try Coles Power Models, in Ventura, CA  (805) 643-7065.  Call between
9AM and noon Pacific time.

Pete Brooks

Richard Hyde (XRKF89A@prodigy.com) wrote:
: Can anyone advise me of a domestic, repeat Domestic, dealer that carries 
: a full line of Stuart parts and fittings.  Prefferably one that furnishes 
: a catalog.



From brew@overlord.edp.net Sun May  5 13:56:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27295 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!news
From: brew@overlord.edp.net (Wayne P. Holland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:02:48 GMT
Organization: Internet Connect, Inc. The Wisconsin ISP 414-476-4266 http://www.inc.net
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4lm8fu$jet@news.inc.net>
References: <4l8i4a$91a@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.243.209.104
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser) wrote:

>I ran across the Kew Bridge web site by accident.  The first line of the
>page says "A steam engine you can walk through while it's working, in a
>building like a cathedral."  That's the place.  If you like BIG steam 
>engines, take a look there.

>http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbsm/

>--
>Bill Kaiser
>wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

My wife and I visited in 1995. We got there just in time to see them
start the 90 inch. After the "Driver" had it started and running on
its own he took time to answer the 100 or so questions I had. I was
amazed at how anything so massive could seem so gentle.

The people that run the steam club were all great and do a wonderful
job at the site.I had a little trouble locating the place, but it was
worth it. I'd reccomend this place to anybody who is interested in
steam or machinery

Wayne Holland
brew@edp.net

 





From rhager@millcomm.com Sun May  5 13:56:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27296 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!misery.millcomm.com!usenet
From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electrolytic Derusting?
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:17:07 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <317E9A53.140C@millcomm.com>
References: <4lcnc8$mtb@orb.direct.ca> <8FaS9JAqwpexEwbU@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
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To: Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk>

Marc Line wrote:

> I'm interested in electrolysis for the removal of patina from 2000 year old copper Roman coins.  Perhaps if anyone can help Chris they 
could help me at the same time?  Two birds with one stone as it were!
> 
> Cheers
> Marc Line

-- 

Hi Marc,

In printed circuit board fabrication, it is very common to 'microetch' 
the pcb surface prior to applying dryfilm resist, plating, etc..

Several solutions are used.  One is simply a 5-10% sulfuric acid 
solution in distilled water.  Another is sodium persulphate.  Another 
is ammonium persulphate.  The last two are white crystals that you 
dissolve in water.  The persulphates are fairly commonly available from 
hobby electronic stores.

Notes:

-ALWAYS use eye protection when working with chemicals and solutions.

-If diluting the sulphuric acid yourself, be careful!  Go slowly.

-Remember that you are not really cleaning copper coins.  You are 
cleaning copper -alloy- coins.  It's quite likely that the coins 
contain a number of other metals, including arsenic.  You may generate 
poisonous solutions and vapors while doing the etching.  Also, any 
etchant bath designed for copper may not work as expected on these 
coins.  I'd try a less valuable sample -first-.

-In regards to cleaning them electrolytically, I'm not sure why that 
would be neccesary.  However, you could try a simple copper sulphate 
solution (avail at hardware store for root killing in drainpipes).  You 
may need to add a little sulfuric acid for conductivity also.  I'd try 
the microetch baths first however.

Good luck!

        Richard Hager

-  Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.     +
-  Affordable Precision CNC       +
-  612-641-1797, fax: 641-8681     +
-  For product info, call Ah-ha!    +
-  directly. I'm just an engineer.   +
-  www.gdic.com/ahha  ahha@gdic.com   +


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sun May  5 13:56:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27297 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Live Steamers: end play in axles??
Date: 24 Apr 1996 11:59:50 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4lltn6$hh1@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu



Live steamers: I'm at work on my 10-wheeler and am wondering how much
end play, or side-to-side play depending on how you define it, there
should be in the driver axles. This engine will have blind center
drivers, so there doesn't need to be as much as if all 3 axles had
flanged drivers. Right now, I've got a fat 1/16 (.078) of play, and am
thinking that might be a bit too loose. BTW, I'm using the Allen
Models frame and runing gear. Thanks for your comments...!


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:56:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27300 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 24 Apr 1996 23:05:41 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4lmc45$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com> <4lm6gm$cl9@shore.shore.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com

Name:        Eastwood Company
Address:     580 Lancaster Avenue
             Box 296
             Malvern, PA 19355
Phone:       (800) 345-1178

The Eastwood Company will sell you an English wheel, as well as
books that describe using them. A couple grand, if I recall.


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:56:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27301 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail
From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Masking Nameplates for Painting
Date: 24 Apr 1996 18:52:25 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4lmbb9INNcm4@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <4l1p15$u5f@news.scott.net> <4l99ki$opm@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
Reply-To: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>I have used the trick of vaseline for masking (spray graphite works well,
>Except that it's not so great for a brass plate that's been riveted
>to the surface that's being painted. There's almost no way to accurately
>mask the edges of the plate! I'd much rather get the plate off.

If I remember correctly this thread started off about asking how to
get the "drive screws" out that hold the name plates on.  I remember
the statement along with that original post that said that the holes
that these screws were driven into were drilled completely through
the castings.  This makes driving the screws out from the back side
relatively.

Drive screws are hardened little things that have a very high pitch
spiral (rolled) in them.  Thus they are driven into holes in softer
metals like nails are driven into wood with the spiral upsetting the
metal in the hole.  You ought to be able to drive the drive screws
out from the back with a nail or better yet, a piece of music wire
that is as large as possible but will still enter the hole from the
rear.

ken
bethesda, md


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27302 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 24 Apr 1996 19:27:12 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lmdcg$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu>,
bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu () writes:

>I agree & 2nd this motion: retrofit prices are shamelessly obscene. 
>: Little wonder manufacturing is going & has gone abroad. We can't afford

>: to upgrade our equipment.
>: Ashoke Nijhowne.

This is why I'm building my own retro-fit for my Sherline. I will let all
know how it turns out when finished.

Bill Rittner


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:56:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27303 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Masking Nameplates for Painting
Date: 25 Apr 1996 00:02:20 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4lmfec$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <4l1p15$u5f@news.scott.net> <4l99ki$opm@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <4lmbb9INNcm4@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


	If I remember correctly this thread started off about asking how to
	get the "drive screws" out that hold the name plates on. 

Yup, that was me. I removed most of the screws last weekend; a nail
was not stiff enough to break them free, but a properly sized pin punch
did the job.

I am still left with four screws that are mounted blind (on the bed). 
Haven't quite figured out how to get them out yet.

I *will* have a great deal of machined surface area to mask off when
painting the lathe, and will use vaseline or graphite for some of the more
complicated surfaces!


From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27304 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:59:34 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4lmf8m$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com>
References: <3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net> wrote:
>  Could you give full info on the Connelly book ,ie full title ,publisher , subject etc . thanks mike



From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27305 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: posting refusals in this news group
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:07:58 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4lmfoe$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com>
References: <4llpic$qkk@mule1.mindspring.com> <317e7281.12355543@transcom.capcon.net>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com (Kevin Pinkerton) wrote:

>thanks Kevin I only now found out how to delete all the previous postings by highlighting and then hitting delete button.



From lewy1@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27306 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!nntp1.wellsfargo.com!news1.digital.com!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Acme and Ball Screws available cheap!?!
Date: 24 Apr 1996 19:46:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4lm0f5$4p3@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com> <4ljce2$t51@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sac-ca7-19.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Apr 24  2:46:45 PM CDT 1996

In <4ljce2$t51@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale
A. Keltie ) writes: 
>
>In <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com> neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff) writes: 
>>
><snip>
>>
>>Can you actually tap an Acme thread?  I guess that I might be
>>able to use one of these screws as a tap if I could grind flutes 
>>in it.  I have never done anything nearly that elegant, and don't
>>know the pitfalls or tricks involved.  I also do not have the 
>>grinder required.  :-(
>>
>>I am thinking of using some screws as part of a veneer press.
>>I would cut them into 12" lengths and use each screw with a
>>crank head, flange nut, and pivoting pad as an individual
>>pressure screw, in a piece of lumber or stiff U channel.
>>
>>Suggestions?
>>--
>>Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
>>7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
>>Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564
>
>Bob -
>
>Acme taps are available but you may find them a bit expensive just to
>make a few nuts.  You will require two taps BTW, one for roughing and
>the other for finishing.  If you only need a few nuts, why don't you
>just single point them?
>
>Regards, Dale
>
Or some times you can find them over the counter as replacement parts
for say like table saws and the like, or from scissor jacks and stuff.

If they can't be utilized then we'll finally have to learn turning
threads.


From eagleskys@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27307 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: eagleskys@aol.com (EAGLE SKYS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted: Custom Engraving Tools
Date: 24 Apr 1996 20:52:26 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lmica$q8m@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: eagleskys@aol.com (EAGLE SKYS)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I am scoping out Paragraphics Systems, but I don't want to buy the first
thing I see.

Any body have suggestions?

Please email.


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27308 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 00:30:39 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4lmh3f$5nu@news.dwave.net>
References: <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com><4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <1996Apr24.010237.7883@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: hammerhead.dwave.net
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 YO Beta]

In message <1996Apr24.010237.7883@bbxrbk.basis.com> - russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
(Russ Kepler) writes:
->
->In article <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
->Wm. Congreve (Sr.)  <congreve@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
->>Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
->>identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
->>very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
->>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
->>milling machine for surface grinding?
->
->Most surface grinders with which I'm familiar allow pretty precise
->adjustment of the grinding wheel - typically in .0005" increments,
->less when you have the feel for it.  In addition, not too many
->horizontal mills allow 3600 RPM.
->
->-- 
->Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
->
->                      Please don't feed the Engineers

A couple more big differences- the surface grinder table is shorter than the
ways, and rides 'in' the ways, I'd guess this is to prevent table sag. The SG
table also moves much faster than a milling table.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27309 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 25 Apr 1996 00:30:47 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4lmh3n$5nu@news.dwave.net>
References: <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: hammerhead.dwave.net
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 YO Beta]

In message <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us> -
dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us (Donald I. Baker) writes:

<stuff I can't answer deleted>
->2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 
->(spelling ?);

"ladle"

->Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

I helped cast some Al flagpole parts once, we didn't have any luck at all
with sand(too much moisture). We did have success with using plaster molds,
and baking them in an oven for 2 days before casting.

->
->Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?
->

We used a coal forge :)

One other hint- pour at least twice the amount needed for the part to force
the metal into the mold. i.e. if the part is to weigh 5 lbs., pour at least
10 lbs.


pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:56:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27310 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: backyard welding??
Date: 25 Apr 1996 00:30:50 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4lmh3q$5nu@news.dwave.net>
References: <postar-2404961101260001@philly214.voicenet.com>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: hammerhead.dwave.net
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 YO Beta]

In message <postar-2404961101260001@philly214.voicenet.com> -
postar@voicenet.com (Edward French) writes:
->
->hello, this humble knownothin asks this question: can i use a welder (what
->type?) to weld together auto engine parts (cranks, axles...) in my
->backyard. this thing will be kept outside through extreme
->weather...?...thanks
->
->-- 
->hug the day

If you plan to use them in an engine(or car in the case of axles)- absolutely
not. If you're doing metal sculpture with old car parts, go for it. I'd cover
it up if it's outside tho...

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org Sun May  5 13:56:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27311 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet
From: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith Tools
Date: 25 Apr 1996 01:11:09 GMT
Organization: University of Michigan
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4lmjfd$2q6@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
References: <4leikd$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <4lhc7v$mvb@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
Reply-To: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org(mike wolfe)
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm120-07.dialip.mich.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <4lhc7v$mvb@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>
>In article <4leikd$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>>
>>BLACKSMITH TOOLS:
>>
>>Ron bishop has built up a collection of tools over the last
>>15 years, He likes to buy, sell or trade these items.
>>
>>If you are in the market for Blacksmith tools. ANVILS,
>>powerhammers, tongs, Hosfield benders,and many other
>>tons of stuff. 
>>CALL RON BISHOP in Ypsilanti, Mich.
>>@ (313) 483-5909
>>


From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27312 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!realtime.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Acme and Ball Screws available cheap!?!
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 01:15:26 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4lmjmu$1gt4@mule2.mindspring.com>
References: <DqA8Jw.6wF@uicc.com> <4ljce2$t51@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <4lm0f5$4p3@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikehide.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis) wrote:
vacuum press is cheaper and more efficient . I have even seen some
attempts to convert old frig` copmpressors to vacuum pumps in this
group,and thats the most expensive part.



From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27313 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 24 Apr 1996 22:30:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 22
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lmo4g$sm7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4llt8k$aia@tin.monsanto.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

>I offer a different way to skin the cat--mount a tool post grinder in the
tool post 
>of your shaper: the grinder gives you the right rpm;  the ram gives you
the rapid x 
>feed noted above; the table gives you automatic y feed; and the down feed
screw 
>gives you the sensitive verticle adjustment. 

Roger 

Have you actually done this yourself? I have a shaper and a tool post
grinder and I've  been thinking of trying this myself for a couple of
years, but I'd love to have someone else's experience first. If you have,
and have some advice, it would be best to post the answer, I think, for
all of us. Thanks. 

------------------
Ed Kingsley






From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27314 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: NEED steady rest for SB 10K
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.003722.26078@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4l6tuu$geb@alterdial.UU.NET> <hanrahan.128.317D16FD@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <317d3532.8135271@transcom.capcon.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:37:22 GMT
Lines: 46

In article <317d3532.8135271@transcom.capcon.net>,
Kevin Pinkerton <kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:44:30 GMT, hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim
>Hanrahan) wrote:
>
>>I plan on making a steady for my South Bend using the castings from Metal 
>>Lathe Accessories in PA.
>
>Jim, Could you post alittle more information on the Metal Lathe
>Accessories foundry in PA. Like what sort of stuff they cast and phone
>numbers and such. I want to make a steady rest and follower rest for
>my clausing 12x36 if possible someday.

If I might jump in, I've made several of the MLA kits and can offer
some experience.  I've made something like 4 of his kits, all for my
Atlas 12".  I've made the T-slot cross slide, rear mount tool post,
ball turning and boring bar holder and the machinist's fitter's rule
(still in the process of scraping flat).  All of the castings I've
received have been in good condition, the only complaint (if it can be
considered a complaint) is that often I've had to remove a
considerable amount of "meat" from a casting, but this is a natural
result of having one kit fit all sorts of different lathes.  The
drawings are all well done, with good machining notes accompanying the
drawings, and notes on different setups for differet lathes.

If you've ever gotten any of the G. Thomas kits from Hemingway you'll
see a lot more written material in an MLA kit (as well as more
dimensions, my most frustrating experience with a Geo Thomas
drawing...)

As a matter of fact, as a result of this set of posts and some email I
may well order a couple more of the kits - I'd like to set up a
special face plate for the lathe for some of the work I'm doing on a
small steam engine, and the transfer block would be handy to have
around.  If I do the face plate I may as well do the angle bracket
(right?).

Besides, I've decided that whacking on cast iron is one of the few
pleasures left in life after a fine scotch, and my doctor has cut me
back on scotch (I'm not going to mention cast iron cutting to him,
ever.)

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu Sun May  5 13:56:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27315 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news
From: abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu (Burr Fontaine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: elec. wiring f/welder
Date: 25 Apr 1996 02:34:33 GMT
Organization: UW-Madison
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <4lmobp$26ko@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <DqBy6B.xM@iglou.com>
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In article <DqBy6B.xM@iglou.com>, rooster@iglou.iglou.com says...

Rooster:

I usually tap my brother-in-law electrician/electrical inspector for answers 
to questions like this.  The following are his comments mixed with some of 
mine:

First of all, your welder may be unsafe for a number of reasons, but it 
certainly won't be safe unless the frame or cabinet is adequately grounded.

The National Electrical Code for most connections to a branch circuit requires 
that the neutral and equipment ground wires be kept separate and carried as 
separate wires back to the circuit breaker box where they then are connected 
together.  Until January 1996 the code contained an exception (sec 250-60) for 
120-240 volt, 3-wire branch circuits for electric ranges and electric clothes 
dryers that allowed the neutral to be used for both neutral and frame ground 
provided the grounded circuit conductor was not smaller than No.10 AWG.  The 
NEMA 6-50 plug is a 4-wire, 50 amp plug that uses a separate connector for the 
equipment ground, and, if my memory is correct, the 10-50 plug is a 3-wire, 50 
amp plug that uses the white, neutral, conductor for both equipment ground and 
the neutral conductor.  Since both plugs are rated at 50 amps, 240 volts, the 
current rating is not a problem.  However, since the code only granted the 
single wire exception for neutral and frame ground to ranges and dryers and 
not welders, your use of a "range" outlet for your welder, strictly speaking, 
would not meet the requirements of the code.

Since January 1996 the National code has deleted the exception for ranges and 
dryers and now at the national level requires separate ground and neutral 
wires to be brought back to the circuit breaker box, i.e. a 6-50 plug with 
four separate wires.  Since this is in a state of transition, the code 
authorities in your location may or may not have changed to the new rules.

Regards, Burr

>My arc welder has a NEMA 6-50 plug, and uses (of course) the
>corresponding receptacle.  The plug is about $13, the recept. about $10.
>An electric range usually uses a 10-50 plug and recept., and these cost
>about 1/3 of the 6-50's.
>
>Can I refit 10-50's to my stuff safely?  I'm never going to plug a range
>into the arc welder outlets, not unless my wife puts a wheel kit on the
>Amana.
>
>Thanks for any info.
>---
> þ OLX 2.1 TD þ my other car is a Deutz Allis 9190
>                                                   
>-- 
>rooster
>



From barnwell@jbshouse.iii.net Sun May  5 13:56:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27316 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news-in.tiac.net!news.tiac.net!usenet
From: barnwell@jbshouse.iii.net (barnwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 03:15:50 GMT
Organization: iii.net subscriber
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In article <4ll55s$68n@news.tiac.net>, alwine@tiac.net says...
>restored iron manufactory from the 1500's, and includes a

I kinda doubt its from the 1500's since plymouth rock is a 1620 event and
it took a few hours or was it years to get around to making Iron in Saugus. 

But all kidding aside I think saugus was a 1700-early 1800 kind of place.

		John



From jjette@sundial.net Sun May  5 13:56:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27317 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundial.sundial.net!usenet
From: jjette@sundial.net (John Jeannette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: old SB (circa 1943) literature?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 03:23:00 GMT
Organization: Sundial Internet Services
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On 23 Apr 1996 19:52:21 GMT, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris
Kantarjiev) wrote:

>I just ordered and received a parts manual from South Bend
>for my 9". 

Are you referring to "manual" CE3455? It answers a few questions but
mostly it is a let-down. I bought my model B9W about 8 months ago. It
was missing parts when I bought it. It's still missing parts. So many
other big name lathes have inexpensive aftermarket suppliers that I
just assumed South Bend would have one too. And then there's the even
bigger problem of trying to determine what these parts are and what
they look like. Let me know what you are looking for, maybe my lathe
still has it and I can describe it for you.         -John

				



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Sun May  5 13:56:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27318 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nwgw.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - a bit nearer.
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 03:57:28 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Message-ID: <4lmt52$f7v@nw003.infi.net>
References: <9DMAZAA$7odxEwzg@bosagate.demon.co.uk> <4lgis0$qnk@nyx.cs.du.edu> <YBbJ1BAueIfxEwH$@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
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Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>In article <4lgis0$qnk@nyx.cs.du.edu>, Robert Galloway
><rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu> writes

>
>Thanks for the info Robert.  I've already got my hands on a chunk of
>pure silver to use for an anode.  Presumably the piece to be plated
>should be used as a cathode.  What isn't clear is what the electrolyte
>formulation should be.  I assume there would have to be a silver
>compound of some sort in it but which one?  Silver Nitrate, Silver
>Chloride, Silver Somethingate ???

>I need to know the composition of the premixed powder you referred to so
>that I can hunt some down.

>Thanks again and sorry for being dense.

>Regards

>-- 
>Marc Line

Potassium silver cyanide is the common ingredient in the plating
solution. My suggestion would be to just buy a quart of pre-mixed
silver plating solution from one of the jewelry suppliers such as
Swest Inc. or Rio Grande.

Jim Waggener



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:56:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27319 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 25 Apr 1996 04:00:25 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Distribution: world
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Get Dave Gingery's book 1 from:

Lindsay Publications
PO Box 538
Bradley Il 60915
815-935-5353

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:56:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27320 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Novice welding
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.042222.5889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
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References: <4la34t$kon@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4l9262$mtc@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 04:22:22 GMT
Lines: 61


When I took my welding course way back in the stone age, we called this a 
" Drag rod ".



In a previous article, ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) says:

>-for-mail
>From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Novice welding
>Date: 20 Apr 1996 03:18:53 -0400
>Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
>Lines: 34
>Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
>Message-ID: <4la34t$kon@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
>References: <4l9262$mtc@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>
>Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
>
>  Paul Richer- paulr@lsid.hp.com asked about contact rod :
>
>
>Contact rod is the term used for all modern stick welding rod where the
>flux on the outside of the rod burns back slower than the filler metal
>core.
>This allows you to literally drag the rod across the surface of the metal
>with the flux edge maintaining the proper standoff distance for the arc.
>Most industrial stick welding rod is produced in this type since it allows
>much easier welds by less skilled welders.
>In the industry it is often referred to as jet rod.
>It works really well. 
>The reason why all rod isn't contact rod is because so much of the old
>stuff was made that it will take quite a while to use it all up. 
>Eventually all rod will be contact rod, but till then just make sure you
>ask for it when buying new rods.
>
>Best of luck
>
>
>
>@}---------------------------------------------------{@
>                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      
>
>                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
>                                          
>                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
>               
>*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
>                        Renton, WA                                        
>   
>*    "Death is like being on holiday with
>          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
>@}------------------------------------------------------{@
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:56:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27321 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: silvering
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.042733.5995@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 04:27:33 GMT
Lines: 11


Brittins  Watch & Clock Makers Dictionary & Guide has a formula for 
silvering clock dials.  This is a reprint of the 1915 edition, and is 
published in Suffolk, England.  Ask your local bookstore, or check the 
horological section of your nearest library.  If it is in the library 
here on the west coast of Canada, it must be in most UK librarys.
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From rmorris@alaska.net Sun May  5 13:56:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net (Dick Morris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sawzall, jig saw, something else?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 04:20:13 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:

>I'm about to undertake building a bench for my 9" SB. The plans
>I have call for 1" and 2" steel angle, and some 1/2" steel plate.


>Sawzall came to mind - is it up to the task? 

Don't know about 1/2", but I used a sawzall (actually a Mikita) to cut
my boiler to length so it would (barely) fit between centers on the
lathe and to cut out the opening for the fire box. It handled 8" ID by
5/16 wall without major problems. I think I got somewhere around 2
feet our of each bi-metal blade and it took maybe two hours of work..

Dick Morris
rmorris@alaska.net





From tlipton@ccnet.com Sun May  5 13:56:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!news.mmcnet.com!ccnet.com!usenet
From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Which is stronger??
Date: 25 Apr 1996 02:53:22 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
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steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:
>
> 	Howdy, all. I want to capture a spring on a cam follower rod and 
> 2 methods came to mind. I could drill a through-hole and insert a dowel 
> pin, then plunk on a washer and a spring, or I could turn a groove and 
> use a snap ring, then washer and spring. 
>

  Ed, I did some calculating and assuming a .50 shaft diameter.
The snap ring groove for a Smalley spiral retaining ring is .03 wide
by .013 deep. With a cross pin diameter of .125, the "Most material removed"
award goes to the pin.
  The snap ring is a better solution because the load through the "Retainer"
is carried concentricly.
  Thrust capacity is limited most by groove deformation. The ring
material can handle a load of 2000 Lbs (sf3). The groove however is limited
in 40,000 Lb yield strength material to 460 Lbs (sf2).
  The solid pin, assuming a hardened ground dowel pin is a poor choice for 
impact loading. With a washer agaist the pin the pin loading is not true
double shear and therfore hard to analyze.
 If however you made a collar, with a radial hole through it and the pin passed through
the collar, and the shaft, you would have a true double shear situation.
  The .125 diameter dowel pin loaded in double shear has a capacity of
2600 lbs. In this situation the shaft material will also be the limiting factor.
 From a manufacturing standpoint the ring groove is the most economical. The shaft is already
a turned part, and adding a ring groove would only be one more operation, as opposed to a completly diffrent setup
for the pin.
 Locating pins very accurately in the center of shafts can be a tricky operation as many job shop people
know.
  The ring solution is more elagant from a design standpoint. I think the pin might look
a little clunky.

    Good luck    TML  




From brainnet@cadvision.com Sun May  5 13:56:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!rex.cadvision.com!cadc56.cadvision.com!user
From: brainnet@cadvision.com (Charles Lewton-Brain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning copper green
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:46:18 -0600
Organization: Brain Press
Lines: 390
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <brainnet-2404962346180001@cadc56.cadvision.com>
References: <blake-1904960208150001@206.84.2.51> <1996Apr22.024343.22702@roper.uwyo.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cadc56.cadvision.com

In article <1996Apr22.024343.22702@roper.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@uwyo.edu
(James Kirkpatrick) wrote:

> In article <blake-1904960208150001@206.84.2.51>, blake@ncweb.com (Blake
Malkamaki) writes:
> |>I make copper weathervanes and would like to know if there are any tricks
> |>to getting the green patina on copper besides age.
> 
> See http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal/patinas.html

Here is some more info for patinating. (FAQ caretakers -if useful feel
free to add to the FAQ-I'm not sure how to offer it so am posting)




GENERAL PURPOSE GREEN PATINA                 Lewton-Brain © 1985

   Cupric Nitrate 300 grams
   Distilled Water   1000 ml (fill to 1000 ml level)
   photo-flo*  1-2 drops (wetting agent)

*One can substitute household liquid detergent or 1-4 drops methyl alcohol.

To make up, place the cupric nitrate in a container, pour in water to the
1000 ml level, add the wetting agent and shake until the cupric nitrate is
dissolved.  Warm water will dissolve it faster.  Use plastic containers
for it with a plastic lid, not a metal one.

The solution is applied more easily to brass but holds a little better on
copper.  It may be used on silver, nickel silver, brass, bronzes, steel
and iron.  It may even be used on gold.  It is a surface covering and
providing it adheres well (mechanically roughened surfaces, copper
containing alloys) and is not used next to skin or to eat from it is a
very good general purpose patina.

As in all metal coloring the end result is greatly dependent on the care
put into the cleaning and preparation of the metal surface before
beginning.  If one wishes to develop a perfectly even patina an absolutely
grease free surface is necessary.  Most problems in patination may be
traced to inadequate cleaning or to insufficient patience in application.

The more time and attention given to repeated applications of the patina
the more even a finished surface will be obtained.  Developing the ability
to produce a perfect finish at will allows one the conscious choice of
various qualities and imperfections of finish.


BASIC TOOLS

Hot plate or bunsen burner and a torch
A piece of steel or thick metal above the burner or hot plate to act as a
device to transfer heat evenly to the flat metal being patinated.
A thick short bristled brush
A stiff scrubbing brush
Pumice or Ajax type cleanser
Newspaper or felt in a plastic container
Spray bottle (if this is used the solution may need to be filtered)
Fume hood
Rubber gloves
Chemical filter face mask

NOTE: good ventilation is a must!!!! 

The use of a fume hood with excellent drawing power is insisted on for
this patina application (if using heat for a quicker approach).  Use
rubber gloves and the face mask.  There is no point to unnecessary
exposure to chemicals. 

For patinating three dimensional objects one can use a torch to heat the
object or resort to the slow application method described later.

PROCEDURE

1. Prepare the metal.  Rub it well with pumice to completely remove the
oxide layer on the surface and to provide small scratches for better
adhesion of the patina.

2. Clean the metal as described in the Appendix to remove greases and oils
>from  the surface.

3. Place the flat work on the heated metal plate.  If the work is not flat
place it on a clean fire brick on a turntable and heat it evenly with a
torch flame.

4. Dip the brush in the solution, wipe it partly dry on the newspaper and
dab it on the metal until it is covered with green.  A better alternative
is to moisten a piece of felt and dab the brush on it to keep it almost
dry when applying the solution.  If one is spraying the solution on, a
light touch is suggested and a large shield constructed around the work to
prevent solution being sprayed over everything.  A chemical mask and fume
hood are especially necessary when spraying the solution on to hot metal.

5. Let it heat up to the point that it turns darker, to brown.  Expose it
to a flame, burning the layer on, turning it black.  Do not heat it too
much however as it may lead to adhesion problems.

6. Using a stiff brush under running water remove as much of the surface
coating as will come off easily and then repeat steps 3-6 until the
surface is covered evenly.

7. When an even black layer is formed repeat the process dabbing with an
almost dry brush (or use a sparing spray) build up the green patina.  When
the surface is evenly covered in green cool it and scrub under running
water to remove all that can be removed.  Repeat this until the desired
thickness and color are reached.  One can build it up extremely thickly
with time.  Again, the more time and care taken in application the more
even the final patina.

An extremely wide range of finished effects is possible.  Perfectly even
green, speckled, patchy, yellowish, brownish, tones of green to turquoise,
rough textured or almost smooth, patterned colors and areas of
reddish-brown are possible on copper.

If any problems in adhesion occur dipping in a mild (2%) solution of
hydrogen peroxide between applications improves its adhesive properties. 
This also tends to give the patina a slight brownish tinge.  Use only
synthetic brushes with hydrogen peroxide solution, if brushed on.

After the final scrubbing and rinsing, dip in methyl alcohol and dry in
the air, with a fan, compressed air or in resin free sawdust.  This last
method is fast and avoids water spots.  Gentle blotting also works.


COLOR VARIATIONS

Yellowish tone:  remove the metal from the heat before the patina turns green.

Brownish yellow on green:  expose the finished surface to a light flame. 
Some experiment is necessary here to obtain even tones of brown.  On
textured surfaces the high areas will turn brown first which may be useful
in emphasizing patinated heavy texture.

Greener:  add a few drops of acetic acid.  Do not add more than a few as
too much may ruin the solution.

Blue-green:  dip in a weak lye solution.

Bluish-green to turquoise:  expose the surface to ammonia fumes or paint
on or wash the surface in dilute ammonia (non-detergent household clear
types are good).  Patina that has been heavily treated with ammonia to
obtain a turquoise color may lose some adhesive strength.  When applying
ammonia do it to cool metal as it will tend to dissolve the patina if
dripped on while it is very hot.  The color may be made to revert to green
>from  turquoise by gentle heating.


PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

Scraping:
Areas in bright metal may be obtained by scraping through the patina
layers.  Paint, inks or gold leaf may be laid into the scraped areas and
lines.  Planned raised areas can be scraped clean leaving recesses
patinated.  Hard felt buffs may be used to high polish such raised areas.

Blue-green (turquoise) on green:
When the base color is satisfactory one can paint or draw with ammonia to
develop blue where the ammonia wets the surface.  The process is
accelerated if the work is warmed slightly.  Several applications on the
same place may intensify the blue.  Depending on the strength of the
ammonia used and its evaporation time a deeper blue outline to the
affected area may be developed.

White (very pale green) on green:
Vinegar (acetic acid) can be painted or drawn with.  After a minute or so
working time it is rinsed off leaving its location bleached.

White (to metal surface) on green:
A 1:2 solution of nitric acid when drawn on the surface will bleach the
patina and if left long enough will eat into the surface providing some
surface relief and the brown of the metal beneath showing through.  Make
sure and neutralize it afterwards with baking soda.

Dark brown on green:
Bleach is painted on.  Where it is turns brown after 30 seconds or so. 
This is accompanied by a nice shade of deeper green that unfortunately
washes off with water and disappears as the patina dries.  The brown
however remains.  If the surface is suspended in bleach a mottled brown
and green results.  When oiled or waxed this becomes darker.  It seems
possible that resists might be used with the foregoing color
modifications.

Green areas with brown outlines:
A pattern is laid out on the surface with water, preferably beaded up
slightly.  A gel made from gelatine and water or a lubricating jelly such
as KY or Lubafax would be excellent for this purpose.  A torch flame is
rapidly played once over the surface and the areas protected by water will
remain green, the exposed areas turning brown.  There will be a brown
outline to the protected areas.

Applied finishes:
Spray applications of acrylic sealers, lacquers, silicone lubricants and
oils may be used with tapes, wrapped string or organic materials as
resists to obtain patterned or mottled areas.


PROTECTIVE COATINGS

The finished product may also have some form of protective coating,
although this patina is tough and not liable to damage if applied
correctly.

Traditionally these would include waxes, vaseline and oils.  Also
available are the spray sealers and lubricants mentioned above.  These
work as water does in intensifying perceived color on the patina surface. 
The exact effect will depend upon the refractive index of the coating
involved, its evaporation rate, viscosity, etc.  One should make samples
with various colors and different coatings for reference.  Oils and waxes
tend to darken the color.  The spray acrylics tend to make the patina
resemble green paint and I usually use them sprayed from a distance for a
thinner more subtle effect.  In general the use of such coatings is for
aesthetic reasons rather than protective.


SLOW APPLICATION METHOD

This is best done outside in the sun in hot dry weather.  The solution is
sprayed on in a thin film and let dry.  A light brushing may be used to
remove loose material between coats.  The process may take a day or more. 
Many kinds of patina lend themselves readily to such a procedure.


FUMING OR SMOKE EFFECTS

This requires a good fume hood or outdoor use.  The patina surface may be
exposed to the smoke of burning leaves, straw or wood to modify the
color.  Burning straw, twigs, leaves, pine needles, resinous shavings,
etc. may be placed directly on the patina or the patinated metal dropped
into burning materials for random or semi-random carbonized effects.  This
can be done to almost all metal colorings including smooth ones.  Tape
resists can be used when smoking surfaces.  Afterwards smooth finishes can
be rubbed with a soft cloth to remove loose soot and a gentle scrubbing
with water may do the same for more porous ones.  If doing this use good
sense and follow fire-safety rules.


SMALL STUDIO AND HOUSEHOLD CHEMICAL PATINATIONS

The oldest traditional method of obtaining green patinas on copper alloy
surfaces was to expose them to urine, preferably aged to develop a
stronger ammonia content.  Works have been buried in manure, coated with
urine containing pastes or sealed in an atmosphere of urine fumes.  I have
heard of a Korean goldsmith who had forty or so jars of aged urine in his
workshop, each labelled with its date and quality, the older ones being
more prized.  While ammonia (presumable more hygenic) works well as a
substitute for urine one would expect that diet and physical condition
would add minerals, salts and complex chemical compounds to the solution
and so affect metal surfaces in more subtle ways than straight ammonia
does.

Burial in alkaline or acidic earths has also been used to create patinas
and may be considered a kind of paste application.  These procedures in
common with others outlined here take time for the effects to develop,
>from  a period of days to months.  Adhesion is not as good as with Cupric
Nitrate patina.


APPLICATION METHODS

As previously, extremely clean metal surfaces give better results.

Cold fuming:
Generally speaking exposure to a fume or atmosphere results in a more even
effect except where condensation causes pooling of moisture on the
surface.  A simple method for doing this is to place the object on a small
platform (to keep it out of the patination agent) in a large plastic
container or bag and pour the agent out on the bottom of the container. 
It is then sealed and left to affect the metal.

Painted solutions:
The solution is painted on with a brush or swab.  It may be necessary to
use a tiny amount of soap or some alcohol in the solution to act as a
wetting agent in order to obtain an even surface.  The metal is allowed to
dry and the application repeated a number of times until the color
development is satisfactory.  Often this may be done outside to aid in
drying and eliminate fumes from the workshop.

Sprayed on:
This serves as a method for obtaining an even or evenly speckled effect on
the surface.  It works well for three dimensional objects.  Again,
repeated applications and time yield the best results.  Keep applications
light.  If using a spray bottle the solutions may need filtering before
use.  In the case of ammonia which decomposes rapidly in air one should
spray the surface and then seal it off from the air in a closed (plastic)
container.

Bound materials:
Where a material moistened with a patination agent comes in contact with a
surface etching, reaction takes place more readily at the point of
contact.  An object can be wrapped in cloth or string to take advantage of
this.  Organic materials such as feathers and plants may be bound to the
object.

If tightly bound they will to some extent prevent surface activation by
the patination agent and their outlines will be visible on the finished
surfaces.  When one binds with dry materials with or without organic
materials and exposes the surface to cold fuming they act as resists and
use can be made of this in developing pattern.  In the case of ammonia it
soon permeates the binding medium and begins etching and reacting with the
surface at the contact points.

Pooling:
If the agent is pooled on the surface it reacts where it is pooled. 
Fingerprints can be used as a grease source to force pooling to occur. 
Pooling will result in a varigated effect as the edges of the puddles will
act differently upon the metal than the centers.

Immersion:
The object is immersed in the solution.  This tends not to work quite as
fast with the agents recommended here but can produce even finishes.  In
some cases (as ammonia on brass) strong etching of the surface can take
place.  Immersion can be used as a method of coating an object with a
solution by dipping it, removing it and allowing it to dry.  This can tend
to produce a concentration of effects where the liquid has run down the
piece while drying.

Moistened shavings
Moistened (not wet) wood shavings or other porous materials work very well
for differential patination/etching of surfaces.  Again, contact points
are the focus of action on the metal and very interesting surfaces are
possible.  Using ammonia or vinegar etching takes place producing texture
as well.  Possible media for this include resin-free sawdust and shavings,
peanut shells, kitty litter, styrofoam balls or chunks, crushed cork,
sisal or other coarse fibers, pine needles, grass clippings, organic
materials such as leaves, feathers and so on.  Use them in a sealed
plastic container to prevent evaporation.  The piece may be shaken up in
them to obtain an even effect.  Rowe and Hughes suggest making a dam of
modelling clay to contain the most media in order to obtain pattern
development or block areas of such effects on a piece.2  It should be
noted in this context that modelling clay has a high sulfur content and
will attack and etch silver while turning copper alloy surfaces black
where it contacts them.  This too could be used in developing pattern. 
The cat box or hamster cage could provide a good medium for patination in
this technique.

RECOMMENDED AGENTS  (For use on copper alloys)

Household Clear Ammonia:  produces greens and blues, olive green on
bronze.  Can produce bright blues with brass especially when used as a
fuming agent.  It affects the structure of brass if left in contact too
long (possibly reacting with the zinc) and the brass may crumble or fall
to pieces with light pressure.  Therefore if using brass and ammonia the
structural elements of the piece should be in copper or another metal.

Vinegar:  produces dark greens, blues and will also affect brasses in the
same way as ammonia.

Salt solution:  Varying strengths of salt solution may be made up and
applied to the metal.  Colors formed include some tones of red on copper. 
Deep green is common.

Dry salt:  This can be sprinkled on the metal surface.  It draws moisture
to itself in a humid atmosphere and will react with the surface over a
period of weeks.  When finished the loose material may be brushed off
leaving a varigated surface of    greens, browns and possible reddish
patches.

Iron filings:  In combination with any of the above they will react to
produce localized dark mottled surfaces.

Combinations:  Various combinations of the foregoing are effective for
patination.  There are also other household chemicals which will produce
patinas on metal.

Nitric acid:  Although not a household chemical most studios have some.  A
strong (1:3) solution of nitric acid will turn copper a reddish-brown
color if left to dry.  If a film of it is maintained over the surface for
a week or so a deep even green is produced.  When ready the surface is
rinsed for a long time in running water and loose material is scrubbed off
with a toothbrush and baking soda solution to neutralize it.  Great care
and safety precautions should be used when working with acids (always pour
acid into water) and cleaning up carried out right away.  If the metal
reacts to release brown fumes the acid is too strong.  Use a fume hood for
this procedure.


RESISTS

Wax, tape or lacquer resists may be used with many of the above agents.

A table of application methods suitable for these chemicals is included in
the appendix.  Protective coating procedures would be the same as for the
previous patina.

-- 
Charles Lewton-Brain
Brain Press, Box 1624 Ste M
Calgary, Alberta, T2P 2L7, Canada
fax:403-283-9053
Email: brainnet@cadvision.com


From greatfer@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: greatfer@ix.netcom.com(Jay Conner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing chipped enamelled-steel
Date: 24 Apr 1996 21:39:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4lm72v$qqi@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4lka47$e64@hilbert.dnai.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: srf-ca3-23.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Apr 24  4:39:43 PM CDT 1996

We're getting some questions in rec.crafts.brewing about the
possibilities of repairing chipped enamelled steel pots.
These are mild steel, blue enamel, the old canners used to put up 
fruit & vegetables, and one of the cheapest brewing kettles.
Problem is, they get even a tiny chip, and then rust out.
Is it possible to clean the chipped area, and then melt on some
sort of jewelry-enamel with a propane or mapp-gas torch ?
And where would one get such enamel ?

Thanks for any help.

Greatferm@aol.com


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:56:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: 1943 SB Lathe
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.043723.6308@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <317982d6.11835895@news.sundial.net>  
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 04:37:23 GMT
Lines: 22


On any lathe, the change wheels should be set so that they have a little 
backlash.  There should be a screw cutting chart inside the gear cover.  
If not, find a high school metalworking text, which will tell you how to
calculate your own chart.  A little fiddling around will teach you the setup.




In a previous article, jjette@sundial.net (John Jeannette) says:

>Is there a book or any documentation that will help a beginner to
>properly adjust the change gears on a old South Bend lathe?
>				Thanks,
>				John Jeannette
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:56:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Roman coin cleaning Q
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.044046.6470@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <3BtCVIA2zIfxEwjl@bosagate.demon.co.uk> <9DMAZAA$7odxEwzg@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 04:40:46 GMT
Lines: 47



A soak in vinegar or weak sulphuric acid might work.


In a previous article, marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk (Marc Line) says:

>In article <4le9ov$3a9@tribune.concentric.net>, Gene Olson
><mettlewk@cris.com> writes
>
>(in reference to cleaning Roman coins)
>
>>We had several here at one point and the coin poeple said the fastest 
>>way to make them totally worthless was to clean off the patina and polish 
>>them up/
>>
>Thanks for the warning Gene.
>
>I know that the removal of patina reduces the saleable value of the
>coins to zilch.
>
>My interest is archaeological rather than commercial.  I have directed
>the excavation of a Roman villa for some years and many of the coins we
>have found are covered with a thick layer of crud as a reult of them
>being in close proximity to limestone for almost 2000 years.  We need to
>identify and date these as some of them are from vague contexts.  It
>seems the only way is to chemically and selectively remove the deposit
>so that the glorious detail might be observed.
>
>I have seen photos of before and after when this has been done and if
>they are to be believed, it would be worth the trying.  I don't want to
>invest in the commercially available gear if our crud is not like their
>crud though.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Regards.
>
>-- 
>Marc Line
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From congreve@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!hookup!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!nntp1.wellsfargo.com!news1.digital.com!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 25 Apr 1996 04:06:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Apr 24 11:06:33 PM CDT 1996

In <4lka47$e64@hilbert.dnai.com> thor@expressway.com (Michael Wood)
writes: 
>
>I'm currently trying to fabricate a false bottom for a stainless steel
>kettle and am having problems finding the material. I need light
>(18ga) stainless sheet with small holes in it like 3/32". I've seen
>this material in already fabricated projects. Does anyone know of a
>supplier who might carry this and sell it in small qty's?
>


Small Parts, Inc. in Miami FL (ph 1 800 220 4242) has stainless steel
mesh ranging from 6 per inch to 200 per inch, wire size from 35 thou on
the coarse to 2.1 thou on the finest.  It runs from $30 for the coarse
stuff to $43 for the very fine, in pieces 12 x 24; and they also sell
pieces as small as 3" by 6".  Great catalog! They've recently started
taking credit cards, so you might be able to do it in one call. This is
all on p.54 of the catalog.

                    Alan Heldman


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:56:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Parts Dealer?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 02:54:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4lmpgm$acv@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4lf828$113i@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <4lj51r$en5@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
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Coles is a good source of Stuart casting kits.  You could also try 
Saturated Steam in Miami Lakes, FL.  Saturated Steam 
(1-800-749-7832) advertises a Stuart Catalog for $8.  It is nice.  

Regards,

Chuck Kuhn



From saustin@northnet.org Sun May  5 13:56:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news.ac.net!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!news.aimnet.com!netserv.com!pagesat.net!zappa.northnet.org!usenet
From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole size for metric taps
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:59:27 -0700
Organization: NorthNet
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honore de Gronckel wrote:
> 
> The tap drill size for metric threads is, following DIN 13, given by the
> nominal diameter minus the pitch (both in mm).
> 
> The most commonly used metric threads are:
> M2x0.4, M2.5x0.45, M3x0.5, M4x0.7, M5x0.8, M6x1, M8x1.25, M10x1.5, M12x1.75,
> M16 x2
> 
> The complete table for standard threads up to M16 is (drill size in mm included
> between brackets):
> M1x0.25   (0.75)    M1.1x0.25 (0.85)    M1.2x0.25 (0.95)     M1.4x0.30 (1.10)
> M1.6x0.35 (1.25)    M1.7x0.35 (1.30)    M1.8x0.35 (1.45)     M2x0.40   (1.60)
> M2.2x0.45 (1.75)    M2.3x0.40 (1.90)    M2.5x0.45 (2.05)     M2.6x0.45 (2.10)
> M3x0.5    (2.5)     M3.5x0.6  (2.9)     M4x0.7    (3.3)      M4.5x0.75 (3.7)
> M5x0.8    (4.2)     M6x1      (5.0)     M7x1      (6.0)      M8x1.25   (6.8)
> M9x1.25   (7.8)     M10x1.5   (8.5)     M11x1.5   (9.5)      M12x1.75  (10.2)
> M14x2     (12.0)    M16x2     (14.0)
> If a finer thread is required DIN recommends the use of one the following
> pitches (in mm): 0.2, 0.25, 0.35, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 1.25, 1.5
> The tap drill size for such threads is also given by the nominal diameter minus
> the pitch.
> This formula gives a tap driil size for a 92% thread (using a UN thread
form).  Most tap drill charts will give a drill size for 70% to 75% 
thread.  In tool steel I use about a 60% thread, and for really narlly
stuff I'll go down to 45% thread.  It really helps to figure out the size
for yourself rather than use a chart.  This is the formula to do so for
UN threads.

O.D. - (lead * 1.732 * .625 * percent of thread)

For example a M6x1.0 would be
6.0 - ( 1.0 * 1.732 * .625 * .75) = 5.155
5.155 / 25.4 = .2043 
For an English thread divide the pitch into 1 for the lead.
For example a 5/16 - 18 works out like this
.3125 - ((1/18 * 1.732 * .625 * percent of thread)) = .2674

If you're using a calculator 1.732 is the square root of 3.

Now if we look up 5/16 -18 in out tap drill chart we find --- 1/4???!
Most of the tap drill charts that are still around were done for older
thread systems.  Since the early 70's, we in the U.S. have been using
the UN thread form and all of the standard bolts and machine screws
that you buy are made to this form (metric included).  Thats why its
good practice to figure out the tap drill size for yourself.
Also, I think most tap drill charts were the product of the W.P.A. 
Like the trig tables, there are errors in them and they kind of self-
propogate.  Get yourself a cheap scientific calculator (chips do awful
things to plastic) and familiarize yourself with it.  It will replace
a whole raft tables and charts.  The scientific calculator is perhaps
the most important addition to the machinist's toolbox in the last 100
years.




From rxg@crosfield.co.uk Sun May  5 13:56:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!crosfield.co.uk!not-for-mail
From: rxg@crosfield.co.uk (Richard Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole size for metric taps
Date: 25 Apr 1996 12:40:45 +0100
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Limited
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4lnobt$7cj@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: suneng1.crosfield.co.uk

Steve Austin followed up Honore de Groneckel with some very useful information
on "manipulating" thread sizes to suit different metals but one comment he made
worried me: 


>Most of the tap drill charts that are still around were done for older
>thread systems.  Since the early 70's, we in the U.S. have been using
		  ====================================================
>the UN thread form and all of the standard bolts and machine screws
 ===================================================================
>that you buy are made to this form (metric included).  
======================================================

So all the equipment made in the US for export to Europe has UN threadform to
mate up with the Metric screws we have standardised upon, all manufactured
rigorously with correct Metric threadform. Isn't this taking National Identity
too far, do you want to get a bad reputation for "standard screws don't fit in
American equipment". You've got away with funny size gallons for years but 
you'll want 99 centimetres in a metre next :^)

If the English can give up measuring distances in poles and furlongs why can't
you give up your funny thread sizes?

>Thats why its
>good practice to figure out the tap drill size for yourself.

Point taken, in future I'll be very careful which threads I wrap my nuts around

Richard Griffin.






From slvrsmth@ids.net Sun May  5 13:56:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!paperboy.ids.net!usenet
From: "Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director" <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Society of American Silversmiths
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:50:09 -0700
Organization: Society of American Silversmiths: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm
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The world's #1 resource for silversmiths, collectors, and curators—the
Society of American Silversmiths (SAS)—now answers questions on silver
Restoration and Conservation, and offers tips on Silver Care through its
new Web site.   The on-line Artisan Referral Service assists in finding
the right silversmith for any type of commission.  You'll find an
International Silversmiths' Tool Exchange, Glossary of Silversmithing
Terms, Society Exhibition Schedule, detailed Member Benefits,
participants in our Technical and Design Support Service, and schedule of
National Silversmithing & Related Workshops.  E-mail directly to SAS and
its FREE consulting service with silver-related questions on silver care,
restoration and conservation issues not found at the site,
silversmithing techniques, and sourcing of hard-to-find tools, and
supplies.  Visitors can also browse through the Artisan Silver Gallery,
access a list of Schools with Degree-granting Silversmithing Programs,
learn proper Slide & Photograph Labeling, and get technical information
in Shop Talk.  Our Hard-to-Find Goods & Services page is a great
resource to find obscure suppliers.
http:www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From Bindu_Gutti@brown.edu Sun May  5 13:56:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bindu_Gutti@brown.edu (Bindu Madhavi Gutti)
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Subject: Re: 200,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES $39
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In article <Pine.BSI.3.91.960425001700.23151R-100000@pluto.njcc.com>,
Bullpen <mperna@pluto.njcc.com> wrote:
>
>This post is completely inappropriate! Please end all this cross-posting.
>
> On Sat, 20 Apr 1996, E-Mail Advertiser wrote:
> 
> > ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
> >=20
> > Forget about advertising on a web site that nobody reads.
> >=20
> > When was the last time that you, personally, went to a web site just to r=
> ead
> > ADVERTISEMENTS?
> >=20
> > Can=92t remember?  It=92s probably because you, like many people, have ne=
> ver done it.
> >=20
> > But how do you reach HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet with=
>  your advertisement?
> >=20
> > E-Mail Advertiser has the clear, proven answer.
> >=20
> > BULK E-MAIL
> >=20
> > Sending bulk e-mail is one of the most effective, profitable forms of adv=
> ertising.  Why?
> >=20
> > RESULTS.
> >=20
> > Up to an 18% response rate.
> >=20
> > WOW.
> >=20
> > But why is it so effective? =20
> > Because the advertisement waits in the recipient=92s mailbox until it is =
> read and discarded. =20
> >=20
> > There are no wasted messages.  Your advertisement WILL be read.
> > This is the beauty of bulk e-mail advertising.  It=92s cost-effective, it=
> =92s fast,
> > and it provides results.
> >=20
> > Now wouldn=92t you like to become a part of this growing advertising tren=
> d?
> >=20
> >=20
> > With a FRESH bulk e-mail address list from E-Mail Advertiser, you can adv=
> ertise to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet.
> >=20
> > ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
> >=20
> > After receiving your order, E-Mail Advertiser will send to you a FRESH bu=
> lk e-mail address list in ASCII text format on IBM disks.  Import these add=
> resses into your e-mail address book, and get on-line with an internet pr
> > ovider or an on-line service that has access to the internet.  You=92re n=
> ow ready to e-mail your advertisement to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people.  =
> It=92s THAT EASY.
> >=20
> > And don=92t forget the best part about a bulk e-mail list from E-Mail Adv=
> ertiser:
> >=20
> > Use it as many times as you want.
> >=20
> > Other companies will charge you a competitive price to send out your adve=
> rtisement ONLY ONCE!  With your own personal list, you can send your advert=
> isement out as many times as you want for ONLY $39.
> >=20
> > Are you convinced yet?
> >=20
> > Order your bulk e-mail list TODAY.
> >=20
> > ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
> >=20
> > *SPECIAL OFFER FROM E-MAIL ADVERTISER:
> > *ORDER YOUR LIST BY APRIL 30, 1996 AND RECEIVE AN ADDITIONAL
> > *10,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES FREE AS AN EXTRA BONUS
> >=20
> > Also available from E-Mail Advertiser:  Custom, targeted lists for only a=
>  penny an address.  Reply for more information on targeted lists.
> >=20
> >=20
> > PRODUCT=09                                              PRICE
> > 200,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text=09    $39.00
> > 300,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text    $59.00
> > Custom Lists                                                       Penny =
> an address
> >=20
> > Send your name, delivery address, telephone number and e-mail address, al=
> ong with the a check or money order to:*
> >=20
> > E-Mail Advertiser
> > P.O. Box 112
> > Albertson, NY 11507
> >=20
> > A receipt of your order will be sent to you along with the disks.
> >=20
> > NY Residents: Please add an additional 8.5% for sales tax
> >=20
> > *For an additional $6.00, E-Mail Advertiser will rush your order=20
> > and send out your list the next business day via Priority Mail=20
> > (Certified Check and money orders ONLY!).  All other orders will be=20
> > shipped within 5 business days.  Personal checks will be held for 5=20
> > business days.   HINT:  Do not request priority mail if you are=20
> > sending a personal check, as your order will be held for five=20
> > business days anyway.
> >=20
> > ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE=20
> > **
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
> --
> 
>                   Http://www.cardmall.com/bullpen/sports.htm
> =20
>   The Bullpen  1276 Lawrence Road  Lawrenceville, NJ 08648 (609)844-0400
>   =20
>              Now an authorized PSA F.S. Submitter- Mail for details


From mperna@pluto.njcc.com Sun May  5 13:56:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.new-york.net!earth.njcc.com!pluto.njcc.com!mperna
From: Bullpen <mperna@pluto.njcc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.collecting.absolut,rec.collecting.books,rec.collecting.cards,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn
Subject: Re: 200,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES $39
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:17:48 -0400
Organization: New Jersey Computer Connection, Lawrenceville, NJ
Lines: 128
Message-ID: <Pine.BSI.3.91.960425001700.23151R-100000@pluto.njcc.com>
References: <4lma4s$371@news-e2d.gnn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pluto.njcc.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
In-Reply-To: <4lma4s$371@news-e2d.gnn.com> 
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.climbing:81156 rec.collecting:79967 rec.collecting.cards.discuss:11104 rec.collecting.cards.non-sports:36060 rec.collecting.coins:23456 rec.collecting.dolls:13190 rec.collecting.phonecards:4484 rec.collecting.postal-history:857 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:90368 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:59129 rec.collecting.sport.football:78628 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:45123 rec.collecting.sport.misc:6464 rec.collecting.stamps:27415 rec.collecting.villages:2746 rec.crafts.beads:6987 rec.crafts.brewing:87300 rec.crafts.dollhouses:1220 rec.crafts.glass:2015 rec.crafts.jewelry:11510 rec.crafts.marketplace:6861 rec.crafts.metalworking:27334 rec.crafts.misc:20607 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:5291 rec.crafts.pottery:1733 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:88 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:3821 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:58158 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:19348 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:15905 rec.crafts.textiles.yarn:10606

Please do not post this type of ad to .discuss as it
does not belong here. Any further postings will result
in a mail forward to your postmaster. thank you.

--marc



On Sat, 20 Apr 1996, E-Mail Advertiser wrote:

> ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>=20
> Forget about advertising on a web site that nobody reads.
>=20
> When was the last time that you, personally, went to a web site just to r=
ead
> ADVERTISEMENTS?
>=20
> Can=92t remember?  It=92s probably because you, like many people, have ne=
ver done it.
>=20
> But how do you reach HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet with=
 your advertisement?
>=20
> E-Mail Advertiser has the clear, proven answer.
>=20
> BULK E-MAIL
>=20
> Sending bulk e-mail is one of the most effective, profitable forms of adv=
ertising.  Why?
>=20
> RESULTS.
>=20
> Up to an 18% response rate.
>=20
> WOW.
>=20
> But why is it so effective? =20
> Because the advertisement waits in the recipient=92s mailbox until it is =
read and discarded. =20
>=20
> There are no wasted messages.  Your advertisement WILL be read.
> This is the beauty of bulk e-mail advertising.  It=92s cost-effective, it=
=92s fast,
> and it provides results.
>=20
> Now wouldn=92t you like to become a part of this growing advertising tren=
d?
>=20
>=20
> With a FRESH bulk e-mail address list from E-Mail Advertiser, you can adv=
ertise to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet.
>=20
> ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>=20
> After receiving your order, E-Mail Advertiser will send to you a FRESH bu=
lk e-mail address list in ASCII text format on IBM disks.  Import these add=
resses into your e-mail address book, and get on-line with an internet pr
> ovider or an on-line service that has access to the internet.  You=92re n=
ow ready to e-mail your advertisement to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people.  =
It=92s THAT EASY.
>=20
> And don=92t forget the best part about a bulk e-mail list from E-Mail Adv=
ertiser:
>=20
> Use it as many times as you want.
>=20
> Other companies will charge you a competitive price to send out your adve=
rtisement ONLY ONCE!  With your own personal list, you can send your advert=
isement out as many times as you want for ONLY $39.
>=20
> Are you convinced yet?
>=20
> Order your bulk e-mail list TODAY.
>=20
> ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>=20
> *SPECIAL OFFER FROM E-MAIL ADVERTISER:
> *ORDER YOUR LIST BY APRIL 30, 1996 AND RECEIVE AN ADDITIONAL
> *10,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES FREE AS AN EXTRA BONUS
>=20
> Also available from E-Mail Advertiser:  Custom, targeted lists for only a=
 penny an address.  Reply for more information on targeted lists.
>=20
>=20
> PRODUCT=09                                              PRICE
> 200,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text=09    $39.00
> 300,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text    $59.00
> Custom Lists                                                       Penny =
an address
>=20
> Send your name, delivery address, telephone number and e-mail address, al=
ong with the a check or money order to:*
>=20
> E-Mail Advertiser
> P.O. Box 112
> Albertson, NY 11507
>=20
> A receipt of your order will be sent to you along with the disks.
>=20
> NY Residents: Please add an additional 8.5% for sales tax
>=20
> *For an additional $6.00, E-Mail Advertiser will rush your order=20
> and send out your list the next business day via Priority Mail=20
> (Certified Check and money orders ONLY!).  All other orders will be=20
> shipped within 5 business days.  Personal checks will be held for 5=20
> business days.   HINT:  Do not request priority mail if you are=20
> sending a personal check, as your order will be held for five=20
> business days anyway.
>=20
> ** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE=20
> **
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20



---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
--

                  Http://www.cardmall.com/bullpen/sports.htm
=20
  The Bullpen  1276 Lawrence Road  Lawrenceville, NJ 08648 (609)844-0400
  =20
             Now an authorized PSA F.S. Submitter- Mail for details



From lcs@zk3.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!usenet
From: Larry Smith <lcs@zk3.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 12:48:49 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <317FACF1.1CFB@zk3.dec.com>
References: <317BB0BA.59E2@zk3.dec.com> <4lkd2c$8mc@news1.slip.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nautilus.zk3.dec.com
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:132174 rec.crafts.metalworking:27335

jklessig@slip.net wrote:
 
> Another source not mentioned in the posts that have already followed
> up yours, is an old OLD book called 'on divers arts'

I'll try to find that one, too.  I've already ordered the book
Ron Ginger recommended, and I've thoroughly enjoyed this thread,
it's just the kind of stuff that I've been looking for - and the
email responses have been terrific.  You know, I sometimes feel
that these two newsgroups are the last ones in Usenet worth
reading every day...

Anyway, thanks again.  And if anyone else has something to add...
add it!  I'm still watching and willing to learn...  =)


From lcs@zk3.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!usenet
From: Larry Smith <lcs@zk3.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Stradivarius Violin Replica
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 12:50:25 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <317FAD51.3F54@zk3.dec.com>
References: <317D8501.6A92@trader.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nautilus.zk3.dec.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (X11; I; OSF1 T4.0 alpha)

Jeff Shelley wrote:
 
> See our site for plans:

I think what you meant to type was "see our site for the
_advertisement_ for the plans."  If you want to advertise,
the web is fine.  But don't do it in the newsgroups, please.


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun May  5 13:56:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!agis!trellis.wwnet.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 25 Apr 1996 13:07:03 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <4lntdn$3rn@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4l8mr9$c81@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> <4lbsnk$18ks@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <4ll62c$10i@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <4ll62c$10i@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com> Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com> writes:
>I have a 1950 Logan 920 11" lathe. After reconditioning
>it, I used rustoleum "clean metal primer" and then their
>royal blue. Sort of flowed it on with a brush on each
>piece as the lathe was taken down to the individual
>pieces. That was 3+ years ago and it has held up well.
>The places where the blue has gotten bunged about is
>still covered by the primer. It's good paint and looks
>good.
>
>Charlie
>

I did something similar to this with my Bridgeport.  I got some of
their grey paint, which was too light, and added black until I got
the medium machine-grey shade I wanted.  Once cured, it's been pretty 
durable and it looks pretty.  Unlike the current mills, the base casting
had the Bridgeport logo cast in.  I made the sunken background black with
white letters.  Now -that- looks spiffy :-)

I must have messed up on the surface prep on my lathe though.  The
paint on the saddle has blistered and looks pretty bad.  Oh well, I
have to have the ways ground anyway.  It'll be a good time to do it over.

Surface prep is really the key to a good paint job.  A good paint is
important, but it has to sit on a good foundation.

I'm rebuilding a band saw at the moment.  I'm thinking about using
an epoxy primer with acrylic enamel on top (non-catalyzed).  The Imron
and other 2 part paints are super performers and would probably be my
choice if I were rebuilding machines for profit, but the isocyanate
hazard isn't worth it for hobby use.  The epoxy primers are not too
hazardous and can be sprayed with normal paint cartridge-type respirators
unlike the 2 part which really require a supplied air system.

Now here's a question:  On my bandsaw I have an aluminum instruction plate
that was silk screened with the machine specs (it's in red, but they're
also commonly done in black).  It's been splattered with
paint and partially covered over.  Does anyone have a good idea on how
to get the paint off without removing the ink?  I think paint removers
won't affect the ink too much, but I'm hesitant to try.
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:56:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.103600.22815@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Apr 96 10:35:59 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4ll7sg$998@nic.wat.hookup.net>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 10

In article <4ll7sg$998@nic.wat.hookup.net>, bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey) writes:
|>Dont see any messages on DIY gas turbines? is there a seperate
|>newsgroup for that subject?

Not sure exactly what you mean by "gas turbine" in this case.  There
have been discussions of the Tesla Turbine which can run on steam, if
not other gasses.  And a few people discuss the Schreckling (sp?)
turbine engine for model aircraft.  Is that what you're looking for?

Jim


From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:56:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.sol.net!daily-planet.execpc.com!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.dx.net!news
From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Panagraph
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:24:00 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4lmdbe$rh9@news.dx.net>
References: <1996Apr17.122752.13342@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <4l72q5$lpe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.190.80.24
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS) wrote:

>George:

> I'm just wondering. Why not look for a good used machine? There are
>plenty of good used one's out there at a fair price.

>                                                                   Good
>Luck

>                                                                  
>Tom....................  

PS
>From  looking at your alais it appears that you may be an artist type,
if so it is easy to build a good lightweight pantograph from aluminum
bar stock.



From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:56:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.dx.net!news
From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Panagraph
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:20:07 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4lmd46$rh9@news.dx.net>
References: <1996Apr17.122752.13342@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <4l72q5$lpe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.190.80.24
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS) wrote:

>George:

> I'm just wondering. Why not look for a good used machine? There are
>plenty of good used one's out there at a fair price.

>                                                                   Good
>Luck

>                                                                  
>Tom....................  

Maybe you are looking for a Pantograph?

Shop around and find a used Deckle or Gorton, I ran both units back in
the sixties, hey are both exelent.



From gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU Sun May  5 13:56:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!euler.Berkeley.EDU!gaudio
From: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Gaudio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco 4" Milling Vise
Date: 25 Apr 1996 10:04:39 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <4lninn$7o5@agate.berkeley.edu>
References: <4lbtte$1prm@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <4lengc$1pe@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4livhk$itc@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: euler.berkeley.edu

In article <4livhk$itc@news1.svc>, Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:
>The interesting thing you might like to know about the
>'high-quality' vises is they are far from perfect.
>
>The spec on a Kurt is 0.001, I assume plus or minus.
>
>They grind many Kurt vises at a single time and the
>potential is there for some inaccuracies.  If one
>takes a Kurt to a good grinding shop, they can be
>ground into 0.0001 alignment for a little while.

under a handful of warm chips, you can kiss those tenths goodbye.

>good grind job will clean that up and prevent it from
>reforming if - if - if the vise is well aged before hand.

what is considered 'aged' and/or 'seasoned' steel? as far as i know,
99% of the 'aging' is accomplished a few minutes after pouring.

>
>Even with Kurt or the other 'quality' vices, the work
>does rise a bit when the jaw is tightened.  On my vise,
>at least, there is an adjustment on the back of the movable
>jaw that can me set to minimize rise.  However, if it is
>adjusted to remove all rise, the jaw will no longer move.

Kurt is famous for their angle-lock: the movable jaw is forced down as
much as toward the fixed jaw when tightened. the movable jaw floats
angularly about the vertical axis, to firmly clamp parts whose sides
are slightly out of parallel (horizontal taper). 
but i have never noticed any displacement vertically.

perhps your workpiece is rotating up because the clamped faces are out
of parallel (vertical taper). to be sure, place a cylinder (axis horiz)
between the workpiece and the movable jaw. now the fixed jaw face establishes
orientation (there's no arguement between the jaws)

a clean Kurt vice is just about the only thing i'll trust on a milling
machine. i'll blame table error before i point a finger at the kurt.
(although the ways may be good to under a thou, the *angular* error
(pitching, rolling, yawing) spawns errors on the order of a thou for
anything but the newest, high quality machines. don't be sidetracked!)

i hate those cheap vices. they can't even paint the damn things right.

ranks up there with pink shop rags and buggered threads on fixure studs.


steve.




From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 25 Apr 1996 12:12:52 GMT
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Tig welding to build up the ways...

I seriously doubt this would work.  In the first place, you'd
be building up with steel (right?), not cast iron.  In the
second place you'd be introducing horendous stresses into the
bed because of the localized heating, and I strongly suspect
the bed would warp on you.  Since we're talking acceptable
tolerances here of much less than .001", it wouldn't have to
warp much to totally trash it.




From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 25 Apr 1996 12:09:00 GMT
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To: thor@expressway.com

Try Small Parts Inc. in Florida.  I don't have their
address available at the moment, but I'm pretty sure
it's in the FAQ for this newsgroup.




From randee@universe.digex.net Sun May  5 13:56:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randee@universe.digex.net (Randee Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Alloys
Date: 25 Apr 1996 13:00:24 GMT
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Is there a general theory of alloys? I have been casting with scrap and
find variations in die cast/pot metal scrap.  Potmetal, Al, and Copper
makes a nice material. I was wondering what the addition of tire weights
to such an alloy would have?



From janders@oro.net Sun May  5 13:56:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for Cuttermaster Tips N' Tricks
Date: 25 Apr 1996 14:02:22 GMT
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I've got a Cuttermaster end mill sharpener, and am learning to sharpen
cutters. Looking for anyone with a Cuttermaster that would be willing
to talk about tool grinding, as in tips and tricks, special setups, etc.

 Jon Anderson



From MDemetz@gnn.com Sun May  5 13:56:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MDemetz@gnn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 08:49:39
Organization: GNN
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There is a book from England by a Mister Schreckling on building
a turbine engine for R/C. A lot of hobbyist over there are building them.



From tsunami@jhu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tsunami@jhu.edu (Tsunami)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Using HCl to degalvanize steel?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 01:38:38 GMT
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	My girlfriend is making a chainmail miniskirt out of galvanized steel 
wire, and I was thinking that when she was done, I could dip it in 
hydrochloric acid for a bit to remove the zinc from the surface of the steel, 
so it would be possible to apply a different finish (eg. bluing, 
nickel-plating, etc.)  Would this work, and would the HCl attack the steel or 
tin/lead solder used to close the links?  Thanks in advance for any help.

Tsunami



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:56:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Tool Grinding
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.133922.11993@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 13:39:22 GMT
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I am now ayt the point where I either cannot properly sharpen tooling,
or need better equipment to do so.  In that like I don't find a lot of
options that fit my needs:

1) Ability to sharpen HSS, CS, and carbide
2) Inside and outside grinding
3) Potential to upgrade to sharpening of endmills (face only, most
   likely) and other such tooling.

Currently, my most pressing need is to accurately sharpen brazed
carbide lathe tools as well as inserts.

On the low end of the cost scale I see the Worden from Hemingway,
looking like I could get it put together for 250-300 bucks.  But I'd
have some trouble changing wheels out all the time for carbide vs. 
HSS, and that pushes me to the Glendo system.  Problem is that the
Glendo is about 3-4 times the cost of the Worden, and there's really
not that much difference (other than flat diamond impregnated disks
vs. cone grinding wheels, and that doesn't account for all the cost).

Anyone know of anything somewhere in the middle?  Something a handly
guy can put together (and yes, I've considered both Lautard's Tinker
and the Quorn, but I don't need that level of complexity.

I'm hoping to see something at NAMES, and maybe I'll see some of you
there.  Some of us from the metalworking area on CIS will be at Scott
Logan's booth (Logan Actuator) at 2:00PM Saturday, so that could be
used as a partial meeting place.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole size for metric taps
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 13:40:30 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 47
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The UN threadform is essentially the same as the standard metric threadform.
It calls for a 60 degree thread with a rounded or flat top of the threadform
to allow clearance in the sharp point of the V.  This allows threads made
with "less than perfect" tools to work.  It has NOTHING to do with diameter
of the screw or bolt and NOTHING to do with the thread pitch.  It DOES have
to do with the threadform or "shape" of the thread itself.  For example
ACME is a threadform,  etc.
John


On 25 Apr 1996, Richard Griffin wrote:

> Steve Austin followed up Honore de Groneckel with some very useful information
> on "manipulating" thread sizes to suit different metals but one comment he made
> worried me: 
> 
> 
> >Most of the tap drill charts that are still around were done for older
> >thread systems.  Since the early 70's, we in the U.S. have been using
> 		  ====================================================
> >the UN thread form and all of the standard bolts and machine screws
>  ===================================================================
> >that you buy are made to this form (metric included).  
> ======================================================
> 
> So all the equipment made in the US for export to Europe has UN threadform to
> mate up with the Metric screws we have standardised upon, all manufactured
> rigorously with correct Metric threadform. Isn't this taking National Identity
> too far, do you want to get a bad reputation for "standard screws don't fit in
> American equipment". You've got away with funny size gallons for years but 
> you'll want 99 centimetres in a metre next :^)
> 
> If the English can give up measuring distances in poles and furlongs why can't
> you give up your funny thread sizes?
> 
> >Thats why its
> >good practice to figure out the tap drill size for yourself.
> 
> Point taken, in future I'll be very careful which threads I wrap my nuts around
> 
> Richard Griffin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 18:43:41 -0400
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In article <4lmqp7$ca4@news.tiac.net>, barnwell@jbshouse.iii.net
(barnwell) writes:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------
    (the Saugus Iron Works ...)

>>restored iron manufactory from the 1500's, and includes a ...

>I kinda doubt its from the 1500's since plymouth rock is a 1620 event and
>it took a few hours or was it years to get around to making Iron in
Saugus. 
>
>But all kidding aside I think saugus was a 1700-early 1800 kind of place.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------

                                              To set the record straight.


The town of Saugus, MA, was founded in 1629.  
The Saugus Ironworks, "Hammersmith",  was incorporated in 1641 and began
operation in 1643.

Tours are conducted by the National Park Service.

Monday thru Friday at 2:15 PM.
Saturdays and Sundays at 9:45 and 11:15 AM - 2:15 and 3:45 PM. 
In the summer, weekday schedules are the same as weekends.

There is a resident blacksmith and the main forge equipment 'runs'.
Better hurry, this is one of several hundred small 'Historical Parks'
currently threatened by congress with the loss of funding.

------------------
Ed Kingsley






From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum soup cans
Date: 25 Apr 1996 17:36:12 GMT
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If it's really aluminum, I believe that a sharp utility knife can cut
it fairly cleanly.  Wear gloves....

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: reporting success with home shop hoist
Date: 25 Apr 1996 17:42:38 GMT
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I feel fortunate in that my garage has the room to let me keep an engine
hoist.  I bought the smaller one, rated at 3000 pounds.  That's enough for
most of the machinery that I'd be likely to take home in my pickup.  
Both my Enco 9" x 20" lathe and the Atlas 7" shaper got the cherry
picker treatment.  Compared to a 2.8 liter engine, such a load is
easy to handle.

If I get anything bigger, I'd call one of the machinery movers in the 
area.  Moving something into my garage wouldn't cost all that much
money (decent access, and a 7' ceiling at worst case), so IMHO, it would
be money well spent.

Pete Brooks



From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 14:41:33 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 44
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That is what I would do.  Preferably a little piece of brass sheet.
Bend to fit and sweat on.  Then solder the bracket back on.
You are lucky.  My radiator cap stuck on my Toyota MR-2.  Overpressure
caused the radiator to split and dump all the coolant on the interstate.
The head immediately warped!  After a week to disassemble the car to get
the head out, sent it off to be machined.  Remove radiator and repair
split... that was minor.  Get the head back with valve job and resurfaced
to eliminate warp.  Now the valves need adjustment.  Valves adjusted with
hardened steel shims about 2.5 mm thick.  Need sixteen of these puppies.
NO ONE has them except Toyota dealers.  Call the dealer for sixteen
hardened boilerpunchings.  Cost $8.00 EACH, week of working days to get
them, I have to pay in advance and then drive 20 miles to the dealer to
pick them up after they come in because it is against their policy to
drop ship!  
I politely ( if you believe that, do I have a bridge for you ) told them
where to install their eight dollar boiler punchings and went home and
surface ground the old oned to the dimensions I now required.
Then another week and a half to put everything back into this Japanese
threee dimensional jigsaw puzzle.
At least it now runs as well as it did 10 years ago when it was new. :-)
John


On Thu, 25 Apr 1996, Chris Blain wrote:

> 	A few months ago part of the hold-down bracket on my willy's
> radiator broke loose, unbeknownst to me. I discovered this fact this
> weekend when I found a green puddle in the driveway. The bracket had
> chafed a 1/8" hole in the bottom tank, directly opposite from the water
> outlet. I was thinking about soldering in a plug to staunch to flow. Any
> ideas/comments/wisdom to share? 
> 
>   *
>  * *    Chris Blain    (chrisb@bdel.com)
> * C *   Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
>  * *    2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124    phone: 801-278-5552 x327
>   *
> 
> DISCLAIMER: Unless otherwise indicated, this correspondence is personal
> opinion and NOT an official statement of Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
> 
> 
> 
> 


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 14:50:51 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 43
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References: <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com><4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <1996Apr24.010237.7883@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4lmh3f$5nu@news.dwave.net>
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I mounted a tool post grinder on the arm of my aged horizontal mill.
Bolted the parts down to the table and surface ground them, no problem.
I used some plastic sheeting to keep the runoff and the grinder stuff
off of the ways.  Cranked the table speed up, no problem.  I used a
cup type wheel mounted facing down.  The knee adjust gave me adequate
feed accuracy.  My parts came out withing .005 mm which met MY needs.
John


On 25 Apr 1996, Peter Drumm wrote:

> In message <1996Apr24.010237.7883@bbxrbk.basis.com> - russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
> (Russ Kepler) writes:
> ->
> ->In article <4lhei5$a0v@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
> ->Wm. Congreve (Sr.)  <congreve@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> ->>Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
> ->>identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
> ->>very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
> ->>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
> ->>milling machine for surface grinding?
> ->
> ->Most surface grinders with which I'm familiar allow pretty precise
> ->adjustment of the grinding wheel - typically in .0005" increments,
> ->less when you have the feel for it.  In addition, not too many
> ->horizontal mills allow 3600 RPM.
> ->
> ->-- 
> ->Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com
> ->
> ->                      Please don't feed the Engineers
> 
> A couple more big differences- the surface grinder table is shorter than the
> ways, and rides 'in' the ways, I'd guess this is to prevent table sag. The SG
> table also moves much faster than a milling table.
> 
> pdrumm@dwave.net
> Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
> Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
> All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
> 
> 
> 


From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Sun May  5 13:56:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY THE SAME ONE?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 19:28:14 GMT
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Enco sells a hobby lathe for ~$950 that I've been looking at.
I just got a Harbor freight catalog with an identical lathe
selling for about half that. Is the Harbor Freight lathe really
poor quality, or is Enco's price too high?

                                            Larry Mayo


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sawzall, jig saw, something else?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 17:54:32 GMT
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If it's small enough, the ubiquitous 4" x 6" bandsaw can do a lot of
what you need (possibly all of it, depending on the dimensions of the
plate).  You can get these ffrom Grizzley, Enco, Jet (Post Tools sells
them) and so on.  Cost is about $200, with some variation due to 
the quality of the motor.  Even if you have to farm out some of the
plate cutting, you won't be sorry.

BTW, flame cutting might be the most effective for the plate.

Pete Brooks




From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:56:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum plate anodizing help please
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.111227.22817@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Apr 96 11:12:27 MDT
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In article <4llqhe$ic1@scipio.cyberstore.ca>, mtn-cw@whistler.net (mtn-cw) writes:
|>Has anybody had any experience with home-brew plate-aluminum anodizing. 
|>I've seen some very stunning results which have perked my curiousity.
|>Where do you get the dyes, or can you make them. What voltages are used in the 
|>anodizing progess, what temperatures, how long. How do you know when the
|>dyes are near depletion? I guess what I need is a general FAQ on the
 

http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FOR SALE
Date: 25 Apr 1996 18:49:01 -0400
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I am posting this for a colleague. B&S coordinate measuring machine,
"Validator".
18" X 24" X 10" XYZ. Series II software. If anyone is interested please
E-mail me and I will  give you his name and phone number. the  machine is
located in cental CT.

Bill Rittner


From docjfg@foto.infi.net Sun May  5 13:56:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Reconditioning/Book
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 17:06:31 -0400
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CC: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com

Sure-information on the Connelly book:
       Machine Tool Reconditioning  by Edward F. Connelly
          1955 Machine Tool Publications  St.Paul,USA
             seventeenth printing 1989

I cannot say enough about this book! If you're interested in Scraping,
machine design, alignments, etc. then buy it at any price. But be 
prepared, this work is about 500 pages and *very* detailed.

I believe I bought my copy from Lindsay Publications,Inc.(PO Box 538,
Bradley Il 60915-0538  815/935-5353.) 

Thanks to everyone who responded to my TIG-welding question. 
Evidently it's not such a good idea.....
                                                      Jerry Gregson


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:41:46 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On Fri, 26 Apr 1996, Blake Malkamaki wrote:

> $ hardened steel shims about 2.5 mm thick.  Need sixteen of these puppies.
> $ NO ONE has them except Toyota dealers.  Call the dealer for sixteen
> $ hardened boilerpunchings.  Cost $8.00 EACH, week of working days to get
> $ them, I have to pay in advance and then drive 20 miles to the dealer to
> $ pick them up after they come in because it is against their policy to
> $ drop ship!  
> $ I politely ( if you believe that, do I have a bridge for you ) told them
> $ where to install their eight dollar boiler punchings and went home and
> $ surface ground the old oned to the dimensions I now required.
> $ Then another week and a half to put everything back into this Japanese
> $ threee dimensional jigsaw puzzle.
> I do try to stay away from this Jap stuff because of this kind of thing. 
> Why don't they just make it adjustable to begin with?  I guess some of the
> Fords are guilty of this kind of stuff too.
> Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
> >>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
> 

So are the Germans.  Actually it is a great way to adjust valves.  Mine
stayed in adjustment for 100,000 miles! :-)  I don't object to the steel
shims.  I DO object to $8.00 each and NOT in Stock at the dealer's and
"No drop ship" policies so that I have to make a special trip to the
dealers to pick them up after they finally arrive.  Those were the policies
that led me to grind my own shims, which wasn't a problem.  It took me
about four hours to make a set that would have cost me about $140.00.
That is even a reasonable shop rate for making them myself.  I think it is
pretty bad when a production part costs more than it does to have a 
machine shop set up and custom make the same part!  Talk about "economies
of scale!"
John



From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:42:52 -0500
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Darn, Cecil.  I knew those pennies were good for something!  I have a friend
who punchs holes in them and uses them for washers, because they are cheaper
than buying a washer!
John


On 26 Apr 1996, CBear81438 wrote:

> Use an old (pre 80 ) copper penny  to solder over the hole.  play  the
> heat on the penny and the radiator will solder easily.
> 
> Cecil in OK
> 
> 


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:45:33 -0500
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Right, I guess you didn't understand.  The nuetral is the white wire and
it also runs through all of the boxes.  The white and the copper are 
connected to the ground buss in the service entrance box, not anywhere
along the run.  Then it is, of course, connected to the nuetral pin on
the 220 Volt connector.
John


On Thu, 25 Apr 1996, Carl Grinnell wrote:

> "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:
> 
> >I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
> >appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
> >Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
> >and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
> >nuetral, and 220 from red to black. 
> 
> 
>    It sounds like you have got a very good idea here.   However, I do
> have one small quibble.
> 
>    The National Electric Code specifies that the neutral must be
> carried all of the way back to the main supply panel (where the power
> first comes to you from your power company) without any connections to
> ground.
>  
>    Since you don't need to use it for a ground ( you already have a
> ground wire) you can fold it back out of the way after you have taped
> it off.
> 
>                                                  Carl Grinnell
> 
> 
> 


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: a good metal for "Wind Chimes"?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:48:41 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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Try different sized of ridgid copper pipe from your local plumbing
supply company.  You can polish it to get the lettering and dirt off.
If you wish you can treat it for a nice patina.  It has a good sound.
Comes in different diameters.  I would suggest at least 3/4 inch for
wind chimes with a deep tone.  You can get it up to 3 inch diameter.
It comes in quite long lengths and can be easily worked.
John


On Fri, 26 Apr 1996, Jim Waggener wrote:

> Any suggestions for, or a source of, a good deep sounding non-ferrous
> metal for home-built wind chimes?  I'm looking for a nice deep mellow
> sound, understanding different lenghts will give different notes..how
> about the diameter? . . wall thickness?
> 
> suggestions?
> 
> Jim Waggener
> 
> 
> 


From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Sun May  5 13:56:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: palama@dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 26 Apr 1996 11:45:09 GMT
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com) wrote:
: Tig welding to build up the ways...

: I seriously doubt this would work.  In the first place, you'd
: be building up with steel (right?), not cast iron.  In the
: second place you'd be introducing horendous stresses into the
: bed because of the localized heating, and I strongly suspect
: the bed would warp on you.  Since we're talking acceptable
: tolerances here of much less than .001", it wouldn't have to
: warp much to totally trash it.

I agree that Tig welding would probably put too much themal stresses in the
bed so that the bed woul be prone to warping, maybe even some years after
the reconditioning job is complete.
However, there are two other metal deposition techniques that could be worth
trying: 
- galvanic deposition of nickel or other machinable metal,
- plasma spraying of an iron based alloy or other metals.
Does anyone have experience with this techniques to advise us poor 
reconditioners of _VERY_ worn lathe beds?

Ciao, Antonio.



From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:56:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Strength of Threads in Dissimilar Metals?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 02:32:25 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>I have a old jag with a v12 aluminum [aluminium] engine they consistently use un coarse in the aluminum and un fine in the ferrous applications



From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:55:26 -0500
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I use them for motor circuits.  I do wire the nuetral as nuetral and the
ground as frame ground.  I was a journeyman electrician and am quite
familiar with the code.  The trick in keeping the load balanced it to
plug as many things in the bottom half as you do in the top half on the
110 items.  Actually, I do NOT have any 110 motors, because almost any
shop motor can be wired as EITHER 110 or 220, so I just wire them ALL to
220.  That way I get less pulldown at starting, and fewer balance 
problems on the circuits.  Major motors have their OWN circuit anyway.
I have 48 circuits in my house!  I get a little carried away sometimes.
When the carpenters were hanging my sheetrock, they complained that there
wasn't a single piece of sheetrock in the entire house that didn't have
an outlet in it!  I did my own wiring, and hired guys to do the sheetrock
stuff!
John


On 25 Apr 1996 jrro@watson.ibm.com wrote:

> In <4lopsf$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
> >
> >>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
> >>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
> >>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
> >>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
> >>nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
> >>by breaking off the little ears.  Put black on top, red on bottom,
> >>both to nuetral on the other side.  That gives me two 110 outlets that
> >>are on different circuits.  
> >
> >This is called a split duplex outlet; it's common practice in Canada for
> >"small appliance circuits" but doesn't seem to be used much in the US. If
> >you're wiring in an environment that requires GFCI protection, you 
> >need a tandem GFCI breaker on the circuit pair (expensive).
> >
> >It's also probably not a very good idea for motor circuits, since the 
> >loading of each leg can be rather unbalanced, causing a lot of current
> >flow through the neutral. 
> >
> >(I also hope you're wiring the ground and white separately, to frame ground 
> >and neutral respectively - the paragraph above reads as if you're 
> >wiring them together to frame ground, which is a no-no.)
> 
> Except at the service entrance.... (sorry, just had to say that.)
> 
> 
> ===========================================================
> 
>  1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
>  1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
>  1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        
> 
> ===========================================================
> 
> 


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Sun May  5 13:56:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 26 Apr 1996 15:38:30 GMT
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In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960425151640.22484Q-100000@reliant>, "John R.
Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

> Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
> and the red to B phase.

DO NOT ground the white, neutral wire any place except at the main
disconnect box! It is dangerous to do so and not necessary. If you ground
the neutral, you are setting up a situation where the ground wire, the
conduit (if you use it) or YOU could become the return path for current.
This situation could arise if the neutral circuit is accidentlally opened,
say by corrosion, loose screw, an errant nail, etc. There is no reason to
take a chance. Grounding the neutral at the receptacle buys you nothing.
Never, ever, skip the neutral altogether, either, hoping to use the ground
as the neutral!

Otherwise, John's plan for balanced three-wire is sound. Make sure, though
that the red and black are on opposite poles of the circuit breaker panel.
If they're not, (1) you won't get 220 between them, and (2) the neutral
that they share will be overloaded. When the red and black are on opposite
poles and equally loaded, the load on the neutral is zero since the "plus"
and "minus" returns cancel each other out. Not all electricians like the
balanced three-wire arrangement, however, since it isn't always obvious
that a certain neutral is shared and it's therefore easy to get red and
black on the same pole and overload the neutral. Leave a note in the box
for the next guy.

-- 
Rich Klopp
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:56:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:19:53 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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The other question is catching pieces of the grinding wheels if they
should come apart.  A Dumore tool port grinder should be reasonably
safe if this regard, but be cautious with cobbled up ones.  The wet
towel is a good idea.  I used an old piece of formica that I had laying
around and put 4 mil poly under everything and over the ways to catch
the water and the grinder swarf.  I did NOT want that stuff all over
my shop.  I have enough problems trying to keep my shop reasonably 
clean. :-)
John


On 26 Apr 1996, Charlie Greenman wrote:

> congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:
> >Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
> >identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
> >very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
> >keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
> >milling machine for surface grinding?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >               Alan Heldman
> Well, for starters are you looking at new surface grinders
> and used milling machines? I've seen a number of used (and
> probably very used) surface grinders for less than $2K. Also
> most surface grinders (other than "toolroom" or tool and
> cutter grinders) have automatic power feed on both x and
> y axis, and it's adjustable. And they tend to be very
> accurately made ... the good ones, with predicatable z
> axis travel of .0005". And as you say, they are draped.
> And again the good ones have ball rollars for the table 
> and the table is very well supported. And they run with
> racks rather than leadscrews. And on and on.
> 
> And all that said, I think hanging a dumore toolpost grinder
> off either a horizontal or vertical (off the ram or supported
> by the head) milling machine a really good idea for model
> making applications. You'd shoot the crap in one direction
> and you'd want to protect the machine on that end. And I
> think one would want to hang a wet cloth towel on the
> receiving end. I've thought a lot about this, having a
> dumore toolpost grinder and vertical milling machine. It
> should work fine, so long as one is careful. I must say
> though that grinding in the shop does scare me a bit. I
> think you'd want to figure out how to capture the crap
> instead of letting it fly through the air. The wet towel
> is what's come to me.... be curious of other ideas.
> 
> /Charlie
> 
> 
> 


From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:56:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Alloys
Date: 25 Apr 1996 16:20:50 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4lnt18$brm@news4.digex.net>,
Randee Johnson <randee@universe.digex.net> wrote:
>Is there a general theory of alloys? I have been casting with scrap and
>find variations in die cast/pot metal scrap.  Potmetal, Al, and Copper
>makes a nice material. I was wondering what the addition of tire weights
>to such an alloy would have?

Adding tire weights would lower the melting point.

Try looking in a physics or physical chemistry book for eutectic mixtures 
and phase diagrams of metal mixtures.  There will be a general theory 
there that you can use to predict certain properties.

JerryK


From quahog@netnet.net Sun May  5 13:56:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: quahog@netnet.net (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith Tools
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:27:04 GMT
Organization: Oak Orchard
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mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) wrote:

>In article <4lhc7v$mvb@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>>
>>In article <4leikd$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>>>
>>>BLACKSMITH TOOLS:
>>>
>>>Ron bishop has built up a collection of tools over the last
>>>15 years, He likes to buy, sell or trade these items.
>>>
>>>If you are in the market for Blacksmith tools. ANVILS,
>>>powerhammers, tongs, Hosfield benders,and many other
>>>tons of stuff. 
>>>CALL RON BISHOP in Ypsilanti, Mich.
>>>@ (313) 483-5909
>>>

A friend of mine, here in Green Bay, has known and done business with
Ron for many years.  He gives him high marks for integrity.  His
prices aren't exactly cheap, but the stuff he sells is good.

At least that's what I'm told.


Dave B.



From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:56:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Using HCl to degalvanize steel?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 16:15:11 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4lml2u$stn@news.jhu.edu>, Tsunami <tsunami@jhu.edu> wrote:
>	My girlfriend is making a chainmail miniskirt out of galvanized steel 
>wire, and I was thinking that when she was done, I could dip it in 
>hydrochloric acid for a bit to remove the zinc from the surface of the steel, 
>so it would be possible to apply a different finish (eg. bluing, 
>nickel-plating, etc.)  Would this work, and would the HCl attack the steel or 
>tin/lead solder used to close the links?  Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Tsunami
>

HCL will do all of the above, remove the zinc, etch the steel, attack the 
tin.  You may find that the zinc goes away before the solder.  The 
etching of the steel is much slower.  You won't be able to blue the 
solder.  It is possible that the solder will not survive a nickel plating 
bath unless you use electroless nickel (and I'm not sure about that).

JerryK


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun May  5 13:56:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 25 Apr 1996 22:10:39 GMT
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In <4lopsf$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>
>>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
>>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
>>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
>>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
>>nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
>>by breaking off the little ears.  Put black on top, red on bottom,
>>both to nuetral on the other side.  That gives me two 110 outlets that
>>are on different circuits.  
>
>This is called a split duplex outlet; it's common practice in Canada for
>"small appliance circuits" but doesn't seem to be used much in the US. If
>you're wiring in an environment that requires GFCI protection, you 
>need a tandem GFCI breaker on the circuit pair (expensive).
>
>It's also probably not a very good idea for motor circuits, since the 
>loading of each leg can be rather unbalanced, causing a lot of current
>flow through the neutral. 
>
>(I also hope you're wiring the ground and white separately, to frame ground 
>and neutral respectively - the paragraph above reads as if you're 
>wiring them together to frame ground, which is a no-no.)

Except at the service entrance.... (sorry, just had to say that.)


===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun May  5 13:56:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 17:54:44 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
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>Have you actually done this yourself? I have a shaper and a tool post
>grinder and I've  been thinking of trying this myself for a couple of
>years, but I'd love to have someone else's experience first. 
>Ed Kingsley
>
>I read it in some old time book but have not tried it (in fact I am still looking around for a good bargain on a used tool post gri=
nder). So, Ed, you have the honor of going first. I look forward to hearing how you make out.

Regards,

Roger Weppelman
>
>




From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:56:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Laser cutting
Date: 25 Apr 1996 16:31:30 -0700
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Anyone know how to calculate the power of a CO2 laser needed (or other 
laser) to cut various thicknesses of carbon steel?  And how is the power 
required related to the cutting speed?

JerryK


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:56:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Chemical silvering
Message-ID: <1996Apr26.130708.4443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:07:08 GMT
Lines: 14


CAUTION CAUTION!

When you use silver nitrate solutions to silver an object, throw out the 
left over solution right away!  In about an hour, it will degrade into 
silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 
explode!  The best thing is to flush the stuff down the toilet, then 
flush several times to dilute it & clear you sewer pipe.  Make sure you 
flush out the container under running water too.
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu Sun May  5 13:56:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lincoln Weld-pak 100, good or crap?
Message-ID: <1996Apr25.120800.7340@tower>
Date: 25 Apr 96 12:08:00 -0500
References: <felice.50.317A6580@pioneer.net>
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In article <felice.50.317A6580@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) writes:
> I've been thinking of getting a lincoln weld pak 100. Is it a piece of crap, 
> or does it work well? Anyone have one and like it? Should I just get a cheap 
> arc welder instead?

I have one of these beasts - works fine for light work (sheet steel,
light tacks, etc.) using flux-core wire.  Be careful when changing
wire reels - any kink translates into a rats-nest and the cable
being pushed out of it's socket.  For serious work, I use a
Lincoln AC-DC buzz box.  Eventually, I'll hook up the gas system
(if I can find some bottles that don't cost more than the welder!).

Steve Bloom (IronFlower Forge)


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:56:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Curta Calculators - Design Marvel
Date: 26 Apr 1996 18:46:06 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I know that the sale happened, and the prices were high - I think a 
type II went for around $800.

Made me feel even better about the used type I we purchased a few
years ago for $75; all it needed was a good cleaning.


From lcs@zk3.dec.com Sun May  5 13:56:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Larry Smith <lcs@zk3.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:53:18 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp.
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Paul Pierce wrote:
 
> Get Dave Gingery's book 1 from: 
> Lindsay Publications
> PO Box 538
> Bradley Il 60915
> 815-935-5353

Yes...complete instructions for building a small
forge for aluminum using a 5-gallon pail and some
clay, how to run it, how to make molds using plain
old ocean sand - including how moist the sand should
be - the whole works.  It is part 1 of a 7 parts
series he wrote wherein you start out with the forge
and build a complete metal shop, including a lathe,
a milling machine, a metal shaper, a metal saw, the
whole works.  Interesting books, even if you aren't
going to try to pull yourself up by your bootstraps
the same way.


From alwine@kaber.com Sun May  5 13:56:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alwine@tiac.net  (Doug Alwine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 25 Apr 1996 22:25:34 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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Several people have written to point out the typo in my
post yesterday.  Saugus Iron works was originally built
around 1640, and operated until almost 1670.  

I guess the 100 year error can't be blamed on a software bug,
so it must be my typing skills.   Sorry for the error.  :)

Doug Alwine



From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:56:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repair crack in cast exhaust elbo ( MARINE) ?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:00:09 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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Message-ID: <4lpotv$41q@news.dx.net>
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reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS) wrote:

>You're correct, I'm wrong. Its the large cast elbo thats part of the
>cooling system.
>It leaks water.

> It never gets hot enough to burn you. And since the cooling system is a
>open system with no preshure I thought some epoxy would do the trick.

> 

>                                                   Thanks  

>                                                     
>Tom..................

I have wekded several wet exhaust manifolds over the years with
varying success. 

The other posts are pretty accurate. Try heating the elbow in a bath
of hot sand, 350-400 F. Use nickle rod.  Peen often. Cool very slow.

Also Brazing has worked.

The problem comes because the inner pipe restrains the weld from
shrinking, thus causing cracks.

Good luck, you'll need it.



From jay@ftp.com Sun May  5 13:56:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and other places to visit
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 18:53:46
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
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In article <4liit1$p2b@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com> writes:

>And don't forget the Henry Ford museum in Dearborn!  They have
>"modernized" the exibits lately (yuck!) and gotten rid of a lot
>of their steam engine collection,          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Gotten rid of????  Yikes!!   Sold to collectors??? Scrapped??? In storage?????
Enquiring minds want to know.
Thanks
                                                                           
                                                                         
                                                            
                                                             





 but they still have quite a
>few, as well as several locomotives.  Lots of cars, of course.
>And at least one of nearly everything else ever made in the 
>history of the world...  ;-)
>
>



From jay@ftp.com Sun May  5 13:56:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 18:53:59
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
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In article <4llt8k$aia@tin.monsanto.com> Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe> writes:
<snip>
>I offer a different way to skin the cat--mount a tool post grinder in the tool post 
>of your shaper: the grinder gives you the right rpm;  the ram gives you the rapid x 
>feed noted above; the table gives you automatic y feed; and the down feed screw 
>gives you the sensitive verticle adjustment. 
>Roger Weppelman


Right on!  Make a additional slide to mount the grinder on at 5 3/4 degrees
(from horizontal) to get 10:1 feed and your side dial will give ten-thousands
for each thousanth division.





From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Followup-To: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 26 Apr 1996 01:28:31 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:132327 rec.crafts.metalworking:27384

I was trying to remember a nice overview article on organ construction, and
finally got it.  The _Harvard Encyclopedia of Music_ has a decent article
on organs, and some of the bits of pipe construction and types.  Not enough
to build an organ, but probably enough to decide if it's what you'd like
to research further.

Pete Brooks



From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:56:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco 4" Milling Vise/Keyless Drill Chuck
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:00:19 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:

> Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> writes:

>>If you ever notice the center of the ways on a Kurt
>>or other vice, see how they discolor?  That is because
>>the way becomes hollow or 'U' shaped over time.  A
>>good grind job will clean that up and prevent it from
>>reforming if - if - if the vise is well aged before hand.

>Ah ha!  *That* explains the 'stains' I've noticed on my 4" Enco. I
>couldn't imagine what the heck it was. No amount of cleaning and oiling
>made any difference. 
>Mine, however, must have been pre-aged, because it arrived that way.

I believe the black is iron oxide that has formed in an oxygen poor
environment, it will actually prevent the iron from rusting and it
won't hurt anything.
 






From lughaid@aol.com Sun May  5 13:56:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@aol.com (Lughaid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 26 Apr 1996 02:34:58 -0400
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Sounds like an English Wheel, Bruce. Lindsay has some plans for building
one. Check out his catalog of Metal books. Also has a good video of a
really Wizard Sheetmetal Guy at work.


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:56:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver plating - how to do it?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 19:53:14 BST
Organization: home
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dwilkins@northernnet.com (Don Wilkins) wrote:

> This reaction is driven by the reduction of silver ions to the metal by
> the copper. You will never build up a thick layer because as soon as the
> copper is completely covered with silver there is nothing to drive the
> reaction.

  Many years ago, when we used to develop and print our own B/W photo's,
spent hypo could be used to deposit silver and much time was spent rubbing
away at old motorcycle headlamp reflectors.  Sadly, it always tarnished
in a few days - and any attempt to clean it simply destroyed it. 
  -- 
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:56:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 25 Apr 1996 21:12:47 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
>nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
>by breaking off the little ears.  Put black on top, red on bottom,
>both to nuetral on the other side.  That gives me two 110 outlets that
>are on different circuits.  

This is called a split duplex outlet; it's common practice in Canada for
"small appliance circuits" but doesn't seem to be used much in the US. If
you're wiring in an environment that requires GFCI protection, you 
need a tandem GFCI breaker on the circuit pair (expensive).

It's also probably not a very good idea for motor circuits, since the 
loading of each leg can be rather unbalanced, causing a lot of current
flow through the neutral. 

(I also hope you're wiring the ground and white separately, to frame ground 
and neutral respectively - the paragraph above reads as if you're 
wiring them together to frame ground, which is a no-no.)


From berry@a.chem.upenn.edu Sun May  5 13:56:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 10:55:13 -0400
Organization: Penn Chemistry
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In article <1996Apr26.130708.4443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

>CAUTION CAUTION!
>
>When you use silver nitrate solutions to silver an object, throw out the 
>left over solution right away!  In about an hour, it will degrade into 
>silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 
>explode!  The best thing is to flush the stuff down the toilet, then 
>flush several times to dilute it & clear you sewer pipe.  Make sure you 
>flush out the container under running water too.

When I saw the references to mirroring glass, I was tempted to give the
standard warning about letting the mixed solutions stand around a long 
time, but...
Steve's warning is way out of proportion, and based on incorrect chemistry.

-> Silver nitrate solutions are not dangerous, and will not convert into
fulminate by themselves, or in light.  (fulminate requires alcohol.)

However,
-> silver solutions, nitrate or otherwise, can react with ammonia upon standing
(days, usually) to form explosive mixtures of silver nitride, Ag3N which
are very 
tempermental.  Because the silvering solutions (after they've been mixed)
contain 
silver nitrate  and ammonia, they should be disposed of within a day or
so.  It's
best to neutralize the ammonia first with vinegar, for example, or HCl
(muriatic acid).

If anyone is interested, I have a pretty good description of the mirroring
process I
could post.

-Don Berry
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu
-- 
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu


From rxg@crosfield.co.uk Sun May  5 13:56:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!news4.agis.net!agis!ns2.mainstreet.net!news.walltech.com!samba.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!genmagic!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!crosfield.co.uk!not-for-mail
From: rxg@crosfield.co.uk (Richard Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Paint on galvanised steel
Date: 26 Apr 1996 09:40:44 +0100
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Limited
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4lq26c$2hh@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: suneng1.crosfield.co.uk
Summary: Request for info on paint types

This summer I have to repaint a horse box (equine transporter). 
It's constructed as a mild steel frame (2"x1" section, slightly rusty under the
existing paint) panelled with galvanised 0.04" steel sheet. When it was 
originally painted no primer was used and the paint is bubbling off the
galvanised and falling off the frames. The frames are exposed outside the
paneling.

What is the best kind of primer to use for galvanised steel?

The job will have to be done outside when the sun shines and the final coats 
will probably be coach enamel applied by hand and rubbed down for a reasonable
finish. This is not going to be a concours finish, just a serviceable coat of
paint to last maybe six years.

Total area is about 350 sq foot (31 sq mtrs)

I need to know generic types of paint, not brand names (I guess most of the
information will come from the US but the paint will be obtained in England).

Thanks in advance for any help.

Richard Griffin.


From paul.encoyand@lamrc.com Sun May  5 13:56:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Encoyand <paul.encoyand@lamrc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 26 Apr 1996 14:22:44 GMT
Organization: Lam Research Corporation - (510) 659-0200
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To: thor@expressway.com

     McMaster-Carr (310-692-5911 L.A area / 708-833-0300 Chicago) has Type 304,  
094 dia,18ga, 36 X 40in sheet Pn 9358T311 for $145.40. They also have the same in a 
36 X 120 in size Pn 9358T31 for $342.27. (ref catalog #100 pg 2490). 
     It surprised me to see how expensive this is! Maybe someone has a cheaper 
source, but be sure to get 304 for food use. (Are you building a mashtun?) They also 
have a good assortment of stainless wire mesh. E-mail me your fax # and I'll send 
you the catalog pages for it if you like.

                                                   Paul



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:56:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!aanews.merit.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.ece.uc.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!news.wildstar.net!cancer.vividnet.com!hunter.premier.net!insync!news.io.com!arlut.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplntx!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 01:35:52 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Yes, I understand that Saugus Ironworks is a national site.  I was a wee bit
young when I last saw it (in 1960!), but at that time, it wasn't completely
working, but they had some of the machinery under power.

Hmm, not sure if it was a foundry so mauch as a iron/steel making place
with a bunch of forgine equipment.  OTOH, it's worth a side trip.

Saugus is a bit outside of Boston--check your rent-a-wreck maps....

Pete Brooks

: Although I have no near term plans for visiting that area, Dan's question 
: brings up a site that I have heard about.  I understand there is an old 
: foundary near Boston.  Is is something like Saugus?  Anyway, if there is 
: someone in the area who can answer Dan's question, how about something on 
: that foundary.

: Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From david@valleynet.com Sun May  5 13:57:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Eiman <david@valleynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY THE SAME ONE?
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 16:37:27 -0700
Organization: ValleyNet Communications
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I really don't know if it is the same machine as Enco's, but I got an ad 
in the mail today showing that 7x10 lathe marked down to $399 until 
5-13-96 at Harbor Freight.  It may need a little tweaking but 
satisfaction is guaranteed so how can you go wrong?  I already have too 
many lathes to have room for this, but I sure thought about it.  If you 
use it for 2 or three years, the resale value has to be close to the 
purchase price.

David Eiman
Fresno, CA


-Mayo,H.H. wrote:
> 
> Enco sells a hobby lathe for ~$950 that I've been looking at.
> I just got a Harbor freight catalog with an identical lathe
> selling for about half that. Is the Harbor Freight lathe really
> poor quality, or is Enco's price too high?
> 
>                                             Larry Mayo


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Sun May  5 13:57:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: a good metal for "Wind Chimes"?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 02:29:32 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Any suggestions for, or a source of, a good deep sounding non-ferrous
metal for home-built wind chimes?  I'm looking for a nice deep mellow
sound, understanding different lenghts will give different notes..how
about the diameter? . . wall thickness?

suggestions?

Jim Waggener



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 200,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES $39
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:27:16 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 9
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4lp594$1jf6@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
References: <4lma4s$371@news-e2d.gnn.com> <pine.bsi.3.91.960425001700.23151r-100000@pluto.njcc.com> <bindu_gutti-2504960747540001@bootp-33e.andrews.brown.edu>
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Personally, I push the "Ignore" switch when these types come on.  
I certainly do not repeat what they have advertised!!!  Every kick is a 
boost.

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:57:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news01.aud.alcatel.com!news.sesqui.net!oitnews.harvard.edu!cmcl2!panix!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.dx.net!news
From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: backyard welding??
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:00:22 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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postar@voicenet.com (Edward French) wrote:

>hello, this humble knownothin asks this question: can i use a welder (what
>type?) to weld together auto engine parts (cranks, axles...) in my
>backyard. this thing will be kept outside through extreme
>weather...?...thanks

>-- 
>hug the day

Not likely. Cranks are iron or alloy steel, axles are heat treated
alloy. Most inexperienced welders should stick to mild steel, I.E. Hot
an cold rolled.



From davidsmith1@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Smith <davidsmith1@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Novice welding
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 21:06:00 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <55ELP-w.davidsmith1@delphi.com>
References: <4la34t$kon@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4l9262$mtc@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com> <1996Apr25.042222.5889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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X-To: Steve Rayner <ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA>

Perhaps your amperage is too low. Try cleaning up contact points, use a
higher setting, ect. or a thinner rod.
 


From nperry3089@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nperry3089@aol.com (NPerry3089)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Powder coating and anodizing
Date: 26 Apr 1996 15:38:50 -0400
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What should a person know about these two processes? 


From elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sun May  5 13:57:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!freenet.columbus.oh.us!not-for-mail
From: elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Eagan L Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Curta Calculators - Design Marvel
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:58:49 -0400
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
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With all the excitement about the auction of Jacqueline Onassis's estate
at Southeby's during this week, I am reminded that there was a mention in
this newsgroup in March that there were some Curta Calculators being made
available for auction soon (or was it recent past?).

Have those items sold, yet?  If so, what was the going rate?


-- 
Eagan

Address(es):    elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us  (preferred) or
                eagan.foster@ccscmh.org


From peppelbk@pond.com Sun May  5 13:57:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peppelbk@pond.com (Brian Peppel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Copper finish
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 16:26:41 -0400
Organization: FishNet
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I just acquired an antique copper humidor. It had, I think, a lacquer
finish on it. Even with the finish the piece was discolored and damaged. I
managed to thoroughly clean the piece and remove the old damaged lacquer
finish. The piece looks great now. The problem - it almost immediately
starts to tarnish. I suspect I will need to reapply a finish. 

What are recommendations for cleaning and polishing just before applying a
finish and what type of finish should I use?

Thanx in advance
-Brian Peppel peppelbk@pond.com


From gtbutts@infinet.com Sun May  5 13:57:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gtbutts@infinet.com (George Butts)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Curta Calculators - Design Marvel
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 13:36:56 GMT
Organization: MICROgen
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I would be interested in the current value of the Curta, also.  I suspect any 
which are part of the Onassis's estate will be a little inflated.  We have a 
Type II (SN 529527) Curta which we bought for (memory) about $300 when that 
was a pure fortune...  Still have it sealed away in it's reverse-screw, 
waterproof, metal, o-ringed container.  It is a treasure just to hold and 
admire for its precision and craftsmanship.  

Ours was used very little because about a year or so later a fantastic device 
came on the market, a calculator which had a battery in it and a dial read out 
which could add, subtract, multiply and divide.  This new thing cost slightly 
less than the Curta plus you did'nt have to turn the crank!  Of course, it 
didn't have the significant figures of the Curta.

I also have three mint quality deci-duplex multi-trig slide rules I am saving 
to use when the electricity goes off in the shop and I have to do some quick 
trig calcs.

..gtb

In article <4lpl69$l66@acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us>, 
elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Eagan L Foster) wrote:
>
>With all the excitement about the auction of Jacqueline Onassis's estate
>at Southeby's during this week, I am reminded that there was a mention in
>this newsgroup in March that there were some Curta Calculators being made
>available for auction soon (or was it recent past?).
>
>Have those items sold, yet?  If so, what was the going rate?
>-- 
>Eagan
>
>Address(es):    elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us  (preferred) or
>                eagan.foster@ccscmh.org

*---------------------*
* George Butts, KC8T
* Laurie Butts, N8CKI
* [MICROgen]
* gtbutts@infinet.com
*---------------------*



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:57:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: a good metal for "Wind Chimes"?
Message-ID: <1996Apr26.134752.22855@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Apr 96 13:47:52 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4lpcbb$clb@nw003.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) writes:
|>Any suggestions for, or a source of, a good deep sounding non-ferrous
|>metal for home-built wind chimes?  I'm looking for a nice deep mellow
|>sound, understanding different lenghts will give different notes..how
|>about the diameter? . . wall thickness?
|>
|>suggestions?

Anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu, directory metal.  The FAQ discusses
wind chimes in part 8.

Jim


From user@pacificrim.net Sun May  5 13:57:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: user@pacificrim.net (Alan Heugh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 26 Apr 1996 06:13:23 GMT
Organization: Pacific Rim Network, Inc.
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <user-2504962214190001@whatcom-ppp49.pacificrim.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: whatcom-ppp49.pacificrim.net

In article <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>,
dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us (Donald I. Baker) wrote:

...snip... I've done lots of bronze casting, not aluminum, but heres what
I remember -
> 
> Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

Be VERY carefull about water and molten metal. "slightly damp" is all you
need. Use "green sand" from foundry suppliers, sometimes glycerine is used
instead of water (highly advisable).
 
> Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Make one with refractory matting from pottery supplies - line the inside
of a steel 5 gal. can, hook up a blower (reverse vacuum cleaner or cheap
squirrel cage type) with a steel pipe angling into the bottom of the can
to swirl the flame. You don't need very much air so you may need to slow
down the blower or put a valve in the air tube. Make a lid with the same
material and a 4" hole in the middle. Use a high pressure propane
regulator and mix the air and gas in the pipe. I use a real crucible and
two man tongs for bronze - you'll probably get by with something less
elaborate.

> Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 
> it I hope)

foundry suppliers know.

> Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

I'd try a small test melt to see.
 
> Q5) Am I better off using a lost wax type method for small parts ?  I will 
> only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 
> and die grinders, etc. ?

I doubt that you need to get involved in investment casting - thats more
useful for tight details and accuracy - sounds like you could make the
parts out of styrofoam and leave them in the sand. This will, however,
creat stinky fumes. 

Good luck,

-- 
Alan Heugh   (360) 595 2563   aheugh@pacificrim.net
478 Rainbow Drive
Sedro Woolley, Wa. 98284

Rare skill. lost wax carving & jewelry designing - contemporary, antique, extremely naturalistic miniature sculptures: animals, flowers, attractive human faces & figures: email for example photos.


From Dana@i-link.net Sun May  5 13:57:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.i-link.net!usenet
From: Dana <Dana@i-link.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: pewter
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:58:18 -0500
Organization: Unorganized and Loving It
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if anyone can give me sone info on pewter casting, either the
names of some books, or some web pages, im looking for general,
newbie type on info here, i would really appriciate it.

-- 
Dana@i-link.net
***************
I think all extremists should be shot.


From cbear81438@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:17:46 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Use an old (pre 80 ) copper penny  to solder over the hole.  play  the
heat on the penny and the radiator will solder easily.

Cecil in OK


From Wayne@hom.net Sun May  5 13:57:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!homenet.hom.net!nnadmin@hom.net
From: Wayne@hom.net (Wayne Dixon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MACHINEST TOOLS
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 19:37:01 GMT
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24  IN.  VERNIER CALIPERS MODEL#16-0211 (NEW)
(Scherr-Tumico)................................................................................$160..00


0-1 IN. MICROMETERS
(LIKENEW)(Scherr-Tumico).........................................................$15..00


0-6 IN. DEPTH MICROMETERS (LIKE NEW)..WIDE BASE
(Scherr-Tumico)......................................................................................$50..00

.
0-6 IN. DEPTH MICROMETER (LIKE NEW ) NARROW
BASE.(Scherr-Tumico).......................................................................$50..00


0-12 IN. DEPTH MICROMETER
(NEW)(Scherr-Tumico).......................................................................$80..00


25 PC RADIUS GAGE SETS (NEW)
STARRETT...........................................................................................$50..00





From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:57:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 15:22:49 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960425151640.22484Q-100000@reliant>
References: <4jukqn$bbo@engnews1.eng.sun.com> <4k0bpq$3eq@zimmer.csufresno.edu> <4leq3e$la8@tribune.concentric.net> <4lhog7$14mi@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
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I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
by breaking off the little ears.  Put black on top, red on bottom,
both to nuetral on the other side.  That gives me two 110 outlets that
are on different circuits.  If I ever need 220 somewhere, I can just take
out the 110 outlet, and get a 220 outlet and wire it red on one side and
black on the other, and nuetral to nuetral.  Now I have a standard 220
outlet and I can put one into ANY outlet box in my shop without rewireing
anything other than the actual outlet I am converting.  No wife traps
either.  I keep a few 220 replacement plugs and single outlets in the
bin so I can whip up a 220 connection wherever I need it in no time.
John


On 23 Apr 1996, Paul Pierce wrote:

> Be sure to run 200 volts to the garage. Even if you don't need it now,
> >>you may later. If your compressor will run on 220, that is a better
> >>choice than sucking 15A of 110. And some day you'll have a welder or
> >>machine tool that wants 220.
> 
> Be sure to use a 220 receptacle.  I read an article a while back where 
> the author said "I'll be the only one using it and I know that outlet is 
> 220V".
> Don't count on that...!  Sounded like a booby trap for grandchildren, 
> wives, etc.
> 
> 
> -
>   PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
>   UTJP04A@prodigy.com
> 
> 
> 
> 



From chrisb@bdel.com Sun May  5 13:57:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chris Blain <chrisb@bdel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Radiator repair
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:26:01 -0600
Organization: Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. - USA
Lines: 17
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	A few months ago part of the hold-down bracket on my willy's
radiator broke loose, unbeknownst to me. I discovered this fact this
weekend when I found a green puddle in the driveway. The bracket had
chafed a 1/8" hole in the bottom tank, directly opposite from the water
outlet. I was thinking about soldering in a plug to staunch to flow. Any
ideas/comments/wisdom to share? 

  *
 * *    Chris Blain    (chrisb@bdel.com)
* C *   Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
 * *    2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124    phone: 801-278-5552 x327
  *

DISCLAIMER: Unless otherwise indicated, this correspondence is personal
opinion and NOT an official statement of Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.




From carlgrin@scott.net Sun May  5 13:57:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carlgrin@scott.net (Carl Grinnell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:21:43 GMT
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"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
>nuetral, and 220 from red to black. 


   It sounds like you have got a very good idea here.   However, I do
have one small quibble.

   The National Electric Code specifies that the neutral must be
carried all of the way back to the main supply panel (where the power
first comes to you from your power company) without any connections to
ground.
 
   Since you don't need to use it for a ground ( you already have a
ground wire) you can fold it back out of the way after you have taped
it off.

                                                 Carl Grinnell



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 26 Apr 1996 04:45:35 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Michael John Hide (mikehide@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net> wrote:
: >  Could you give full info on the Connelly book ,ie full title ,publisher , subject etc . thanks mike

The book, "Machine Tool Reconditioning", by Edward F. Connelly, is a real
'brain dump' from the master of a lost art.  I beleive Mr. Connelly is
selling this book himself, from :
Machine Tool Publications
Suite 208
1600 University Ave. W
St. paul, MN 55104

The price is $42.00 + 4.00 shipping.  The book is a reprint of a 1960's
edition. It was originally typescript, printed by offset on clay-coated
paper.  The drawings are freehand, but very well done and legible, the
photos are excellent halftones.  It is over 500 pages of about 8 1/2 x 11",
hardbound.

The book is a bit narrower than its title implies.  It mostly covers the
techniques of measuring errors in machine tools, using relatively simple
tools such as straightedges, precision levels, scraped squares and a dial
indicator.  By following the text, you can quickly learn how to measure
tilt, lack of orthogonality, wear in slides and beds, etc. on macine tools.
It is really pretty simple after seeing the methods described.  It also
covers scraping to repair these inaccuracies, although it discusses finding
WHERE to scrape much more than HOW to scrape.  I think this may be because
the scraping technique is one of those personal abilities that one develops
only by doing, and he couldn't describe it better if he tried.  If you
know where to scrape, and how to measure how well you did, then you will
just 'learn by doing'.  the book really doesn't discuss any of the other
aspects of reconditioning, such as power sources, tapers, spindle bearings,
and many of the other areas that may need work on a machine.  It does
give some methods to test the accuracy of a machine spindle, but then
doesn't really indicate how to fix it if there is a problem.

So, if you have a milling machine that has slop in the table, or a lathe
with enough wear in the bed to cause problems, and you want to try hand-
scraping it, this is probably the only full-size book still in print that
will help you.  I beleive it was WELL worth the price to me!

I haven't done any scraping yet, but I have collected some of the tools,
and have gone through my lathe and mill, finding what is worn, and what is
OK.  I was actually surprised - my lathe bed may have come from a new but
damaged lathe, and been combined with other parts that had substantial wear!
My mill, which I always thought was in great shape, shows substantial wear
in the table slide.  Without the Connelly book, I'd have never figured out
how to measure it.

Good luck!
						Jon



From blake@ncweb.com Sun May  5 13:57:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 01:00:22 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <blake-2604960100220001@206.84.2.78>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-29.ncweb.com

$ hardened steel shims about 2.5 mm thick.  Need sixteen of these puppies.
$ NO ONE has them except Toyota dealers.  Call the dealer for sixteen
$ hardened boilerpunchings.  Cost $8.00 EACH, week of working days to get
$ them, I have to pay in advance and then drive 20 miles to the dealer to
$ pick them up after they come in because it is against their policy to
$ drop ship!  
$ I politely ( if you believe that, do I have a bridge for you ) told them
$ where to install their eight dollar boiler punchings and went home and
$ surface ground the old oned to the dimensions I now required.
$ Then another week and a half to put everything back into this Japanese
$ threee dimensional jigsaw puzzle.
I do try to stay away from this Jap stuff because of this kind of thing. 
Why don't they just make it adjustable to begin with?  I guess some of the
Fords are guilty of this kind of stuff too.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<


From janders@oro.net Sun May  5 13:57:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 26 Apr 1996 02:05:51 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
Lines: 12
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Russ,

The diamond wheels can be had from most good jewelry supply outlets.
That's where I got mine, though I used to use them for lapidary. It's not 
hard to make a spindle to mount them, and drive with a variable speed motor.
That leaves fabricating a tilting table and a few odds and ends.

This is one of the projects on my list for series of shop projects I plan 
to publish.

  Jon Anderson



From docjfg@foto.infi.net Sun May  5 13:57:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 17:37:10 -0400
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 22
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Paul Pierce wrote:
> 
> Get Dave Gingery's book 1   
       I agree. There's no substitute for the info in this little book.
       Also, you need "foundry sand"...somewhere close by there my be an
       iron foundry (lots of folks in your town probably will not know
       about it) and a visit there is most rewarding! This was my case,
       and the foundry manager pointed to a pile of (black) sand about
       the size of a small house and said, "Take all you want!" They also
       gave me a bag of parting powder. If this sand is unavailable, use 
       something finer than "playsand." Bentonite is available from 
       pottery supply houses.
 
       Unfortunately, so many of these traditional, all-American businesses
       are going under because of the work going overseas...how sad.

       I went to a lawn-mower repair shop and got a bunch of junked
       cylinder heads to melt, and this worked great. Didn't need a flux.
       But as with molten lead, keep any moisture away from the pot!
                                      
                                                   Hope this helps,
                                                    Jerry Gregson


From dwilkins@northernnet.com Sun May  5 13:57:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.corpcomm.net!news
From: dwilkins@northernnet.com (Don Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:50:40 GMT
Organization: Corporate Communications
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On Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:07:08 GMT, ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve
Rayner) wrote:

>
>CAUTION CAUTION!
>
>When you use silver nitrate solutions to silver an object, throw out the 
>left over solution right away!  In about an hour, it will degrade into 
>silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 
>explode!  The best thing is to flush the stuff down the toilet, then 
>flush several times to dilute it & clear you sewer pipe.  Make sure you 
>flush out the container under running water too.
Apparently this guy flunked Chem 101 but I suspect the EPA would be
interested in his novel method of disposal of toxic chemicals. 
>************************************************************************
>     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
>************************************************************************
And that is probably where you learned your chemistry.

  _               _   _                  Für d' Flöh gibts a Pulver 
 (_|   |   |_/o  | | | |  o              für d' Schuah gibts a Wix, 
   |   |   |     | | | |      _  _    ,   für'n Durst gibts a Wasser
   |   |   |  |  |/  |/_) |  / |/ |  / \_  bloss fuer d' Dummheit gibts nix.
    \_/ \_/   |_/|__/| \_/|_/  |  |_/ \/ 
                                         
                                         
 



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY THE SAME ONE?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 05:14:26 GMT
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-Mayo,H.H. (hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com) wrote:
: Enco sells a hobby lathe for ~$950 that I've been looking at.
: I just got a Harbor freight catalog with an identical lathe
: selling for about half that. Is the Harbor Freight lathe really
: poor quality, or is Enco's price too high?

They may be built on the same frame.  But look closely, for the optional
features.  Some of these have change gears and a threading screw, some
don't.  Look at all the extras, chucks, faceplates, centers, cutting
tools, etc.  They will add up if you have to buy them.



From fsg@gate.net Sun May  5 13:57:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Phil.London" <fsg@gate.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WEB Page
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:08:35 -0400
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Florida Society has just opened their WEB Page, please check it out,
http://www.wp.com/fsg


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:57:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 26 Apr 1996 22:16:08 GMT
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This might do the job:  go to a silk-screening supply house and take a look
at their stainless screens.  A long time ago, I got a smallish chuck for
free from a printers.  I don't know which stainless it is, but it's 
decent stuff.

Pete Brooks



From xcprhb@oryx.com Sun May  5 13:57:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY THE SAME ONE?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 16:36:21 GMT
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Harbor Freight usually sells the lathe for a price similar to ENCO's.

You REALLY need to read the fine print, but it looked like a good deal
when I read the catalog.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

                       Consultant/Programmer 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From cbear81438@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: Custom Engraving Tools
Date: 25 Apr 1996 15:00:03 -0400
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Paragraphics Seemed to be obscenely expensive.   I think there is
something out there for about 1/2 that much.

Cecil


From cbear81438@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Using HCl to degalvanize steel?
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A chainmail Miniskirt?!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that's a woman to be reckoned with!!!!!!!!!!<VBG>>

Cecil


From kalish1@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kalish1@ix.netcom.com(brian stewart )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 25 Apr 1996 23:14:48 GMT
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Hello:

Can anybody tell me what would be the perfect milling machine for
making gun parts.  I am a licensed collector of curio and relic
firearms and would like to be able to manufacture my own parts to
repair obsolete rifles and pistols.  Also, should I purchase a used
machine or buy one of the new ones.  I figure the biggest part would be
twelve inches long and no more than four inches thick.  

Please e-mail me back your respones.  Thank you for your time and
expertise.

Signed:
Brian    :) 


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 11:46:01 GMT
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congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:
>Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
>identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
>very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
>milling machine for surface grinding?
>
>Thanks.
>               Alan Heldman
Well, for starters are you looking at new surface grinders
and used milling machines? I've seen a number of used (and
probably very used) surface grinders for less than $2K. Also
most surface grinders (other than "toolroom" or tool and
cutter grinders) have automatic power feed on both x and
y axis, and it's adjustable. And they tend to be very
accurately made ... the good ones, with predicatable z
axis travel of .0005". And as you say, they are draped.
And again the good ones have ball rollars for the table 
and the table is very well supported. And they run with
racks rather than leadscrews. And on and on.

And all that said, I think hanging a dumore toolpost grinder
off either a horizontal or vertical (off the ram or supported
by the head) milling machine a really good idea for model
making applications. You'd shoot the crap in one direction
and you'd want to protect the machine on that end. And I
think one would want to hang a wet cloth towel on the
receiving end. I've thought a lot about this, having a
dumore toolpost grinder and vertical milling machine. It
should work fine, so long as one is careful. I must say
though that grinding in the shop does scare me a bit. I
think you'd want to figure out how to capture the crap
instead of letting it fly through the air. The wet towel
is what's come to me.... be curious of other ideas.

/Charlie



From cwh@aloft.att.com Sun May  5 13:57:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Carl W. Hoffmeyer" <cwh@aloft.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe Organs - Pipes
Date: 26 Apr 1996 21:08:31 GMT
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Larry, Thanks for your email.
There was an article in Scientific American about 20 years back
dealing with "The Physics of Organ Pipes".  There was some (not
too detailed info) about fabrication, but the import of the
article had to do with how an organ pipe speaks - the splitting
of the column of air from the foot, the oscillation of the column
in the pipe, overblowing, how changing musical tastes resulted
in the nicked voicing of the 19th century and so on.

This was a very good article.
- Cheers,
Carl



From jmp@anna.az.com Sun May  5 13:57:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jacqueline Passey <jmp@anna.az.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum soup cans -- THANK YOU!
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 15:17:50 -0700
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Thank you everyone who sent me great advice on how to cut the cans!

    ------------ --------------------------------------------------
   | Jacqueline | VikingCon 16, August 16-18, 1996, Bellingham, WA |
   | jmp@az.com | Finger me for more information on VikingCon 16!  |
    ------------ --------------------------------------------------



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:57:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Curta Calculators - Design Marvel
Message-ID: <1996Apr26.165632.22861@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 26 Apr 96 16:56:32 MDT
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In article <4lpl69$l66@acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us>, elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Eagan L Foster) writes:
|>With all the excitement about the auction of Jacqueline Onassis's estate
|>at Southeby's during this week, I am reminded that there was a mention in
|>this newsgroup in March that there were some Curta Calculators being made
|>available for auction soon (or was it recent past?).
|>
|>Have those items sold, yet?  If so, what was the going rate?

On April 2, Paul Amaranth posted:

   I got the auction results from Sotheby's and thought it might be of
   general interest:

   These were the Curta calculators:
     Type I  #69733  575 pounds
     Type II #511267 517 pounds
     Type II #535960 632 pounds

I'm not sure of the current exchange rate for Pounds to Dollars.

On March 21, Roger Edwards posted:

   For what it's worth, there is a photo of a Curta Model II in the Miller's
   1995 International Antiques Price Guide, page 525.  The price guide for
   the Curta is $300-375.

Jim


From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:57:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:08:54 GMT
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russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) wrote:

>I am now ayt the point where I either cannot properly sharpen tooling,
>or need better equipment to do so.  In that like I don't find a lot of
>options that fit my needs:

>1) Ability to sharpen HSS, CS, and carbide
>2) Inside and outside grinding
>3) Potential to upgrade to sharpening of endmills (face only, most
>   likely) and other such tooling.

>Currently, my most pressing need is to accurately sharpen brazed
>carbide lathe tools as well as inserts.

>On the low end of the cost scale I see the Worden from Hemingway,
>looking like I could get it put together for 250-300 bucks.  But I'd
>have some trouble changing wheels out all the time for carbide vs. 
>HSS, and that pushes me to the Glendo system.  Problem is that the
>Glendo is about 3-4 times the cost of the Worden, and there's really
>not that much difference (other than flat diamond impregnated disks
>vs. cone grinding wheels, and that doesn't account for all the cost).

>Anyone know of anything somewhere in the middle?  Something a handly
>guy can put together (and yes, I've considered both Lautard's Tinker
>and the Quorn, but I don't need that level of complexity.

>I'm hoping to see something at NAMES, and maybe I'll see some of you
>there.  Some of us from the metalworking area on CIS will be at Scott
>Logan's booth (Logan Actuator) at 2:00PM Saturday, so that could be
>used as a partial meeting place.

>-- 
>Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

>                      Please don't feed the Engineers

How about a bench grinder with a "green" silicon carbide wheel.

Been using mine for ten + years, no problem. Total cost 50-60 bucks.



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:47:30 GMT
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I bought a green wheel (6" x 1/2" x 1/2"), mounted it on a Sears grinder 
that I made a 4" square rest for, and was very happy with the lathe 
(3/8") bits that I ground.  I set the rest with a straightedge pointing 
about at the center of the grinder shaft.  I figure that should be about 
7 degrees on a 3/8" toolbit.  Whatever-it seemed to work well.

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sawzall, jig saw, something else?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:40:05 GMT
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Ssure like my bandsaw.  I removed the vise and clamped some 1/2" plate, 
shimmed up on the edge away from the motor and extended the length of cut 
quite a bit.  Flipped the plate over and finished the cut.  Sure beats a 
hand powered hacksaw!

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From francis@pinza.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:57:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: francis@pinza.demon.co.uk (Francis Knight)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.mac.scitech,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.machines.cnc
Subject: Ashlar DrawingBoard: Any Hassles?
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 14:41:57 +0100
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I faxed Ashlar an order for one copy of DrawingBoard, on 10 April. This
hasn't shown up (normally, I get stuff from the West Coast in well under
a week.) I've sent emails requesting some status feedback, but these
haven't been acknowledged. This contrasts with my enquiries prior to
ordering, which were promptly answered.

Today, my Bank tells me that my card account has been debited for _two_ 
transactions by Ashlar, on 17 and 26 April.

I'd like to know if anyone else has had similar experience with Ashlar, or 
have I just suffered a glitch?



Cheers,
Francis K.


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:57:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Band Saw Blades
Date: 28 Apr 1996 12:21:35 GMT
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In message <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com> - edk4@aol.com (Edk4)27 Apr
1996 11:30:54 -0400 writes:
->
->I have been unable to find a supplier of welded-to-size bandsaw blades for
->a 15" Delta Metal Cutting Bandsaw (93 1/2")  - specifically in the
->configuration:
->
->         3/4" wide, and 6-10 TPI (variable tooth).
->
->Plenty of 100' coils, but no single, sized blade in that size.
->Any ideas? I've looked at a lot of catalogues.
->
->A question - Is there any problem with using a positive tooth rake, with
->Aluminum?
->No rake is usually recommended for AL, while positive rake seems to be
->associated with hard-to-machine materials like hard steels and alloys
->which, presumably may workharden if the cutting is not aggressive enough.
->
->I cut a fair bit of Acrylic, too, and I think maybe a positive rake would
->*not* be a good idea there. (?)
->
->------------------
->Ed Kingsley
->
->
->

Try DoALL, they'll make up any length blade you want and have it to you in a
few days. I'd suggest a Silencer bi-metal neutral rake, 3/4" width, .035
thickness, comes in 4.5-7, 5.5-9, 7-11, 8-12, and 9-14 TPI. Lemme know where
you're located and I'll give you the nearest phone # (there's 62 of 'em)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From jds@cmaster.com Sun May  5 13:57:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!news4.agis.net!agis!ns2.mainstreet.net!news.walltech.com!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!world!coopnews.coop.net!news.dx.net!news
From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB Mill with 48" Long travel.
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 15:52:26 GMT
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4lqrkh$gqh@news.dx.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.190.80.23
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I am looking for a milling machine with a mimimum 48" longitudinal
travel.
I would prefer a planer mill (spar), but will accept anything in good
shape. 

Midwest location prefered.

Respond to: James D. Szura jds@cmaster.com





From ohk@krakatitt.nta.no Sun May  5 13:57:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.uio.no!nntp.nta.no!128.39.1.89!ohk
From: ohk@krakatitt.nta.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen FOU.TD/DELAB)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roman coin cleaning Q
Date: 25 Apr 1996 08:54:02 GMT
Organization: Telenor R&D
Lines: 51
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <OHK.96Apr25105402@krakatitt.nta.no>
References: <9DMAZAA$7odxEwzg@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
	<4l8idi$6d4@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca> <nVpUJBAnppexEw4V@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
	<4le9ov$3a9@tribune.concentric.net>
	<3BtCVIA2zIfxEwjl@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: krakatitt.nta.no
In-reply-to: Marc Line's message of Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:55:34 +0100

In article <3BtCVIA2zIfxEwjl@bosagate.demon.co.uk> Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk> writes:


   In article <4le9ov$3a9@tribune.concentric.net>, Gene Olson
   <mettlewk@cris.com> writes

   (in reference to cleaning Roman coins)

   >We had several here at one point and the coin poeple said the fastest 
   >way to make them totally worthless was to clean off the patina and polish 
   >them up/
   >
   Thanks for the warning Gene.

   I know that the removal of patina reduces the saleable value of the
   coins to zilch.

   My interest is archaeological rather than commercial.  I have directed
   the excavation of a Roman villa for some years and many of the coins we
   have found are covered with a thick layer of crud as a reult of them
   being in close proximity to limestone for almost 2000 years.  We need to
   identify and date these as some of them are from vague contexts.  It
   seems the only way is to chemically and selectively remove the deposit
   so that the glorious detail might be observed.

   I have seen photos of before and after when this has been done and if
   they are to be believed, it would be worth the trying.  I don't want to
   invest in the commercially available gear if our crud is not like their
   crud though.

   Any ideas?

   Regards.

   -- 
   Marc Line

Have you considered using an ultrasonic cleaner? It is surprising how
much crud it will remove. I have seen one actually removing painted
letters, using only hot water with Decon-50. Try a friendly physics or
chemistry department to get your hands on an ultrasonic cleaner if you
haven't got one already.It is probably a good idea as a first step
even if you are going to use something else to remove the last
deposits.

A weak acid and plenty of patience should do the trick for removing
limestone deposits. But I'm no chemist, only an ex-physicist turned
computer scientist, so don't take my word for it.

Ole-Hj, Kristensen



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:57:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 27 Apr 1996 23:44:21 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <4lubgl$d8f@news.dwave.net>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG><werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG> <DqFt9C.BK4@cruzio.com>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: hammerhead.dwave.net
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 YO Beta]

In message <DqFt9C.BK4@cruzio.com> - "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
writes:
->
->Jon --
->
->Can you provide a little more detail?  Thanks.
->
->               Frank
->
->\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
->packrat@PEAK.ORG (Jon Winlund) wrote:
->>You will really be sorry if you buy from Enco.
->>
->>The voice of bitter experience.
->>
->>packrat@proaxis.com

I'm not Jon, but I can relate my own experiences with ENCO. Case one- a
friend bought 2 self-coiling air hoses from them, the ends were not attached
very well. The first time he  used one of them the end blew off and hit him
in the forehead, one inch either way and it would have been his eye. He tried
to return them as defective, but Enco wouldn't take them back, claiming they
were misused.
Case 2- In Sept. '93 I ordered a 12"x9"x8" angle plate from Enco, which was
is one of their sale flyers, and they claimed was in stock. It took -over- a
year to get it. I wrote them numerous letters about it, each time I'd get a
reply that it would be shipped on a certain date, but never was. In Sept. '94
I wrote to cancel my order and have them remove me from their mailing list,
10 days later the angle plate arrived, exactly 1 year and 2 weeks after
ordering. Of course, the job I wanted to use it for was long gone by then....

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From wblack@mail.fgi.net Sun May  5 13:57:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.fgi.net!news
From: wblack@mail.fgi.net (Walter Black)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 28 Apr 1996 16:37:59 GMT
Organization: FGInet
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4m06t7$dm6@grail.fgi.net>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG><werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@ <4lubgl$d8f@news.dwave.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nb231.fgi.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.1

In article <4lubgl$d8f@news.dwave.net>, pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm) says:
Stuff deleted
>
>I'm not Jon, but I can relate my own experiences with ENCO. Case one- a
>friend bought 2 self-coiling air hoses from them, the ends were not attached
>very well. The first time he  used one of them the end blew off and hit him
>in the forehead, one inch either way and it would have been his eye. He tried
>to return them as defective, but Enco wouldn't take them back, claiming they
>were misused.
>Case 2- In Sept. '93 I ordered a 12"x9"x8" angle plate from Enco, which was
>is one of their sale flyers, and they claimed was in stock. It took -over- a
>year to get it. I wrote them numerous letters about it, each time I'd get a
>reply that it would be shipped on a certain date, but never was. In Sept. '94
>I wrote to cancel my order and have them remove me from their mailing list,
>10 days later the angle plate arrived, exactly 1 year and 2 weeks after
>ordering. Of course, the job I wanted to use it for was long gone by then....
>
>pdrumm@dwave.net
>Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
>Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
>All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
>

With all these people bashing Enco I am wondering why no one has contacted
the Illinois Attorney General's Consumer Fraud Division in Springfield, IL.
(217)-782-9011.  If these reports of not getting orders for a year, of 
getting defective merchandise which is hazardous, and not being able to
return merchandise is true, the Attorney General can put them out of 
business, or fine them large sums of money!  But the AG can only do this if
he receives complaints from those of you that are getting screwed by Enco!

Walt Black
wblack@mail.fgi.net


From john@siu.edu Sun May  5 13:57:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!neonlights.uoregon.edu!platform.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.dacom.co.kr!vyzynz!xmission!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!newshub.csu.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!saluki-news.wham.siu.edu!reliant!john
From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:05:23 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960426080125.22947A-100000@reliant>
References: <9604260512.AA06529@coconut.wustl.edu>
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On Fri, 26 Apr 1996, Jonathan M. Elson wrote:

> : You are lucky.  My radiator cap stuck on my Toyota MR-2.  Overpressure
> 
> I used to have one, too.  Really fine car.  Even got one of my snootiest
> RX-7 friends to allow that it might hold the road better than his Mazda.
> A VERY big admission!  It must hold the road A WHOLE LOT better than his
> Mazda!  Anyway, didn't you get a hot light?

No hot light!  The temp gauge went to the stop in a few seconds, but by
then the head was warped.  I drove it less than 30 seconds after the 
loss of coolant and I could hear it boiling in the head when I stopped.
Durn aluminum heads anyway.  

> 
> : caused the radiator to split and dump all the coolant on the interstate.
> : The head immediately warped!  After a week to disassemble the car to get
> : the head out, sent it off to be machined.  Remove radiator and repair
> <snip>
> : Then another week and a half to put everything back into this 
> Japanese : threee dimensional jigsaw puzzle.
> 
> OH YES!  Just try changing the oil filter while the engine is still warm!

Or without the A&P Mechanics optional second elbow in each arm!
> 
> : At least it now runs as well as it did 10 years ago when it was new. :-)
> : John
> 
> I only had two complaints with mine - it made a HORRIBLE racket on the
> highway - something in the engine resonated about 59 MPH, and you just
> couldn't STAND it!  And, partly connected to that, it was the only car
> I've ever owned that got better CITY than highway milage!  The crazy
> gearing was WAY too high, but it did give it some acceleration.

I have a little better gearing, I get about 20 mph / 1000 rpm any my
horrible resonance comes at about 65 MPH.

> 
> Oh, yeah - the other problem is it was so much fun to drive I kept bumping
> into things with it.  When my insurer offered to total it out and pay me
> nearly what I paid for it after 3 years of use, I just couldn't turn them
> down.  So, a guy who works in a body shop bought it on the scrap lot, and
> is rebuilding it.  That made me feel a whole lot better about letting them
> call it a total loss (as I drove back home after wrecking it - it still ran
> fine!)
> 
It is fun to drive.  I have, so far, managed to avoid hitting anything
serious with it.  I do have 100,000 miles on it, so I probably can't 
complain too much about the valve job.  By the way, I replaced the
brake pads and the tires at the same time!  Not too bad.
John




From kmag@lex.infi.net Sun May  5 13:57:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nwgw.infi.net!news.infi.net!usenet
From: Kevin Maggard <kmag@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tig Welder
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 13:33:14 -0400
Organization: Maggard Technologies
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <3183ABDA.5977@lex.infi.net>
References: <3181D463.1BF9@mis.nb.ca>
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Jeffrey R. Trites wrote:
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has any comments or experience with the MILLER
> ECONOTIG welder. I have been hobby welding for a couple of years with a
> MILLERMATIC 130 mig welder, and was thinking about adding a tig welder
> to the fun. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
>    Jeff Trites

	I had a Miller EconoTIG.  I used it for 2 weeks and found that I 
always wanted a setting between the two ranges, low power with good 
resolution at the foot controller but with enough power available when 
needed. It just didn't have enough range at one setting.  Ohterwise it 
is an ideal home TIG machine.  I traded it back into the dealer on a 
Lincoln 255 Square Wave TIG. The Lincoln cost $4000 to set up properly 
where the Miller cost $1300 but I wanted/needed precise current control 
>from  5 amps (20 or 30 is the minimum on the MIller)all the way up to 180 
or so amps (Lincoln goes to 316 amps).  I realize that these machines 
are in a totally different class but I just felt the Miller needed a 
broader current range, a true sqaure wave is nice if welding Al but not 
needed for ferous metals.  If most of your work is in steel then Miller 
is a steal.

Kevin Maggard


From tsunami@jhu.edu Sun May  5 13:57:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!neonlights.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.rio.com!imci3!imci4!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!darwin.sura.net!blaze.cs.jhu.edu!news.jhu.edu!news
From: tsunami@jhu.edu (Tsunami)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Using HCl to degalvanize steel?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 15:46:52 GMT
Organization: HCF - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland, USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4lqr5c$goi@news.jhu.edu>
References: <4lml2u$stn@news.jhu.edu> <4lp11v$6tp@crl14.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.220.191.91
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In article <4lp11v$6tp@crl14.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com says...
>HCL will do all of the above, remove the zinc, etch the steel, attack the 
>tin.  You may find that the zinc goes away before the solder.  The 
>etching of the steel is much slower.  You won't be able to blue the 
>solder.  It is possible that the solder will not survive a nickel plating 
>bath unless you use electroless nickel (and I'm not sure about that).

	I guess you're right that I can't blue the solder (who knows why that 
didn't occur to me), but none of the links are soldered yet, so I thought 
maybe I could silver-solder them, or maybe nickel-plate first then solder, or 
even not bother soldering them at all.  Thanks for the advice.

Tsunami




From cyoungso@direct.ca Sun May  5 13:57:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Layton Cubic Factor Rule?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 01:25:28 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4lp8m8$hpt@orb.direct.ca>
Reply-To: cyoungso@direct.ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: van-as-02b14.direct.ca
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

Can anyone give me any information on a device
called a "Layton Cubic Factor Rule". I believe 
it was use in the grading of timber.

Thanks, Chris



From bryant@sce.carleton.ca Sun May  5 13:57:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!cunews!usenet
From: John Bryant <bryant@sce.carleton.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 13:49:15 -0400
Organization: Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlyn.sce.carleton.ca
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The 6" four-jaw chuck on my Standard Modern lathe is far too clumsy for
fine work, and for some time now I've been considering obtaining a
smaller four-jaw chuck for gripping smaller parts.  Now I've seen what
appears to be the answer - KBC is advertising a 3" four-jaw chuck (by
Sherline) directly mounted on a Morse 4 taper (which matches my
spindle).  Also it's currently on special at 10% off.  I'm a bit
reluctant, however, to splash out $220 on a part that I've never seen
and which may not turn out to be a good idea.

Could anybody comment on the part itself (quality?) and whether using
a taper mounted chuck is or is not a very good idea?  As an alternative
I could, of course, always mount a small four-jaw chuck on a backplate,
but small four-jaw chucks seem hard to come by, and D1-3 back plates
are not cheap.


           Thanks - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)


From steamer@west.net Sun May  5 13:57:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Marking: how??
Date: 28 Apr 1996 10:36:54 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m0abm$mbm@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

	--Hello, all. I'm making a little aluminum do-dad adn I'm trying 
to find an economical way to mark the company name and the part 
description on quantities of them. I have previously been using an 
ironworker, holding a raised-letter type of stamp, but this is not the 
greatest. I have seen a technique that involves a sort of pad, probably 
soaked in some sort of electrolyte, which is pressed (lightly) onto a 
metal part, using a mask (I think) to etch letters or an image onto a 
part. The questions: --What is this process generally referred to as? 
--Who sells this kind of equipment?? --Will it work on an aluminum piece 
which will later be anodized, without destroying the impression?? 
--Anyone got any better ideas??
	TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Last Law of Product Design:
	COMING SOON		:	If you can't fix it, feature it.
	http://www.west.net~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From mjn@HiWAAY.net Sun May  5 13:57:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!HiWAAY.net!usenet
From: mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: posting refusals in this news group
Date: 26 Apr 1996 00:16:28 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4lp4ks$gsd@parlor.hiwaay.net>
References: <4llpic$qkk@mule1.mindspring.com> <317e7281.12355543@transcom.capcon.net> <4lmfoe$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.3

In article <4lmfoe$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com>, mikehide@atl.mindspring.com 
says...
=
=kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com (Kevin Pinkerton) wrote:
=
=>thanks Kevin I only now found out how to delete all the previous 
postings by 
=highlighting and then hitting delete button.
=

If you actually want to include the lines, change the character it uses to 
indicate a quote from the > to the =.  That's how it tells included text.

I know this means you hit down, backspace, = quite a bit, but you can get 
quite good at it.



From brainnet@cadvision.com Sun May  5 13:57:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!rex.cadvision.com!cadd200.cadvision.com!user
From: brainnet@cadvision.com (Charles Lewton-Brain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum plate anodizing help please
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 20:00:03 -0600
Organization: Brain Press
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <brainnet-2504962000030001@cadd200.cadvision.com>
References: <4llqhe$ic1@scipio.cyberstore.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cadd200.cadvision.com

In article <4llqhe$ic1@scipio.cyberstore.ca>, mtn-cw@whistler.net (mtn-cw)
wrote:

> Has anybody had any experience with home-brew plate-aluminum anodizing. 
> I've seen some very stunning results which have perked my curiousity.
> Where do you get the dyes, or can you make them. What voltages are used
in the 
> anodizing progess, what temperatures, how long. How do you know when the
> dyes are near depletion? I guess what I need is a general FAQ on the
> process.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> 
> Mitch Thornton   mtn-cw@whistler.net

David LaPlantz's book 'Artists Anodizing Aluminum' is excellent and has an
exhaustive listing of suppliers in the back. The address I have is PO Box
220, Bayside, CA, 95524, USA
ISBN 0-942002-03-2

Try also:

http://www.thomasregister.com:8000/home.html
Thomas Register, a great service and company finding site.


Note, although a rectifier is the proper thing I have heard of people
anodizing with a battery charger. The anodizing creates a hexagonal hollow
tubular sturctured oxide layer on the surface of the metal which can be
filled with dyes. The metal is then 'sealed' in nickel salts or just
boiling water which 'closes' the ends of the tubes locking the dye into
the metal surface. Any permanent dye can be used (magic marker etc) but
light fastness is a real issue. The main supplier of dyes Sandoz Corp just
got bought by some large company, apparently sold its workers to the
purchaser which is then going to liquidate their positions in several
months time (a friend is being chopped after 25 years) I don't know what
this will mean to dye availability.

Note you can buy pre-anodized aluminum sheet, do the dying and then seal
it as well asbeing able to buy pre-anodized and pre-dyed aluminum sheet.
(ie for tubes think arrow shafts and knitting needles). EastWest Dyecom
sells this and more. (try Metalsmith magazine ads for their address)

Charles

-- 
Charles Lewton-Brain
Brain Press, Box 1624 Ste M
Calgary, Alberta, T2P 2L7, Canada
fax:403-283-9053
Email: brainnet@cadvision.com


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Sun May  5 13:57:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!uniserve!news.sol.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!storm!m44
From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Message-ID: <23624@storm.LakeheadU.Ca>
Date: 26 Apr 1996 23:58:11 GMT
References: <Pine.A32.3.93.960423111717.27216B-100000@blkdia>
Sender: news@storm.LakeheadU.Ca
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <Pine.A32.3.93.960423111717.27216B-100000@blkdia>,

>	A few months ago part of the hold-down bracket on my willy's
>radiator broke loose, unbeknownst to me. I discovered this fact this
>weekend when I found a green puddle in the driveway. The bracket had
>chafed a 1/8" hole in the bottom tank, directly opposite from the water
>outlet. I was thinking about soldering in a plug to staunch to flow. Any
>ideas/comments/wisdom to share? 

Chris, some years back when I was first married, I got a hole in the tank of 
my rad. No money for new rad, needed car, set of torches in garage...

I popped the rad out, drained the little bit of coolant left, wire brushed the 
rad around the hole till it was clean and then tinned the area. Took a penny, 
brushed it clean and tinned it. Laid the penny on top of the hole and ran a 
bead of solder around it. Two years later the repair was still holding. 

I'd say solder on a brass or copper patch and not worry about it.

Good luck
Don


From mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org Sun May  5 13:57:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith Tools
Date: 27 Apr 1996 01:42:53 GMT
Organization: University of Michigan
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4lru2t$qq6@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
References: <4leikd$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <4lhc7v$mvb@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <4lmjfd$2q6@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
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In article <4lmjfd$2q6@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>
>In article <4lhc7v$mvb@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>>
>>In article <4leikd$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe) says:
>>>
>>>BLACKSMITH TOOLS:
>>>
>>>Ron bishop has built up a collection of tools over the last
>>>15 years, He likes to buy, sell or trade these items.
>>>
>>>If you are in the market for Blacksmith tools. ANVILS,
>>>powerhammers, tongs, Hosfield benders,and many other
>>>tons of stuff. 
>>>CALL RON BISHOP in Ypsilanti, Mich.
>>>@ (313) 483-5909
>>>


From rapunzel@infi.net Sun May  5 13:57:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rapunzel@infi.net
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Subject: Re: 200,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES $39
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:15:33 GMT
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it is illegal to send unsolicited email, some guy sued compuserve and
won some insane amout of money, because they keep sending him junk
mail, 


On Sat, 20 Apr 1996 18:32:41, BulkList@gnn.com (E-Mail Advertiser)
wrote:

>** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>
>Forget about advertising on a web site that nobody reads.
>
>When was the last time that you, personally, went to a web site just to read
>ADVERTISEMENTS?
>
>Can’t remember?  It’s probably because you, like many people, have never done it.
>
>But how do you reach HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet with your advertisement?
>
>E-Mail Advertiser has the clear, proven answer.
>
>BULK E-MAIL
>
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>
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>
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>
>But why is it so effective?  
>Because the advertisement waits in the recipient’s mailbox until it is read and discarded.  
>
>There are no wasted messages.  Your advertisement WILL be read.
>This is the beauty of bulk e-mail advertising.  It’s cost-effective, it’s fast,
>and it provides results.
>
>Now wouldn’t you like to become a part of this growing advertising trend?
>
>
>With a FRESH bulk e-mail address list from E-Mail Advertiser, you can advertise to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people on the internet.
>
>** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>
>After receiving your order, E-Mail Advertiser will send to you a FRESH bulk e-mail address list in ASCII text format on IBM disks.  Import these addresses into your e-mail address book, and get on-line with an internet pr
>ovider or an on-line service that has access to the internet.  You’re now ready to e-mail your advertisement to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people.  It’s THAT EASY.
>
>And don’t forget the best part about a bulk e-mail list from E-Mail Advertiser:
>
>Use it as many times as you want.
>
>Other companies will charge you a competitive price to send out your advertisement ONLY ONCE!  With your own personal list, you can send your advertisement out as many times as you want for ONLY $39.
>
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>
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>
>** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE **
>
>*SPECIAL OFFER FROM E-MAIL ADVERTISER:
>*ORDER YOUR LIST BY APRIL 30, 1996 AND RECEIVE AN ADDITIONAL
>*10,000 E-MAIL ADDRESSES FREE AS AN EXTRA BONUS
>
>Also available from E-Mail Advertiser:  Custom, targeted lists for only a penny an address.  Reply for more information on targeted lists.
>
>
>PRODUCT	                                              PRICE
>200,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text	    $39.00
>300,000 FRESH E-Mail Addresses in ASCII text    $59.00
>Custom Lists                                                       Penny an address
>
>Send your name, delivery address, telephone number and e-mail address, along with the a check or money order to:*
>
>E-Mail Advertiser
>P.O. Box 112
>Albertson, NY 11507
>
>A receipt of your order will be sent to you along with the disks.
>
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>
>*For an additional $6.00, E-Mail Advertiser will rush your order 
>and send out your list the next business day via Priority Mail 
>(Certified Check and money orders ONLY!).  All other orders will be 
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>sending a personal check, as your order will be held for five 
>business days anyway.
>
>** SEE OUR ADVERTISEMENT IN THE MAY ISSUE OF ONLINE ACCESS MAGAZINE 
>**
>
>



From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Sun May  5 13:57:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!lf.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplntx!hplabs!hp-pcd!hp-cv!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!news.ssd.intel.com!news.jf.intel.com!ichips.intel.com!gdermer
From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: reporting success with home shop hoist
Date: 24 Apr 96 20:16:15 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <gdermer.830376975@ichips.intel.com>
References: <4lep9s$fut@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> <4lg2kh$hk4@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dtt026.jf.intel.com

jrro@watson.ibm.com writes:

>In <4lep9s$fut@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>, congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:
...
>>was to get a very husky, forged, C clamp which will clamp to any joist,
>>as needed. A short sling goes from it to a cheap one-half-ton
>>differential chain hoist, which will go in a drawer when not in use.
>>Another, nylon, sling below that. 

...
>Also, the C-clamp setup sort of gives me a *gulp* sort of feeling.
>I don't think the manufacturer even considered giving it an  
>overhead lifting rating.  If it is going to slip, it might do so all
>at once.  When I had to rig up something similar to position a


Me too.  In fact most of the industrial C-clamp manufacturers (Wilton comes
to mind) specifically say don't use their clamps for lifting.  While I admit
I have done so in the past, I do get that "gulp" feeling, especially when
the load is trying to slide the clamp off the joist, rather than when the
clamp is hooked over the joist.


>Hardinge horizintal mill (in pieces) into my basement, I actually
>drilled a 3/4 hole in the center of the 2X10 joist, and blocked 
>that joist with 4X4s on each side of the lift point.  A steel pin 
>went thru the hole, and I lifted against that.

I have done something similar, but I drilled holes in the center of
several of the joists, and a piece of bar went through the holes. This
way the bar has no tendancy to slip or twist, and the load is somewhat
distributed over a couple joists.  I don't know what the safe load is, 
but I successfully lifted the 1000 lb backbone of my surface grinder this
way.  Whatever, I would definitely find an alternative to the C clamp.

...
>One thing I would add (learned by watching proffesional riggers
>at work) is the cardinal rule:  Never, ever, place any part of
>your body under the load while it is being lifted.  I think the idea
>is that if anything goes *bang*, it is a shame, but at least
>nobody gets hurt.  All the riggers here have complete sets of 
>fingers/toes.
> 

Yeah, it's a fine rule.  On the other hand, when the riggers were lowering
my 1 ton milling machine down the outside basement stairwell with a lifting
sling, it had a tendancy to swing.  There was this 400 lb, 6'8" man/gorilla
that stood more or less under it and would periodically reach up and stop
it swinging.  Hard to watch....


Greg
gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From dave.bozarth@kandy.com Sun May  5 13:57:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!tksbbs!dave.bozarth
From: dave.bozarth@kandy.com (DAVE BOZARTH)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Vacuum Redux
Message-ID: <8BF5427.095A0032F7.uuout@kandy.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 17:43:00 -0800
Distribution: world
Organization: The Kandy Shack BBS/Garden Grove, CA/+1-714-636-2667
Reply-To: dave.bozarth@kandy.com (DAVE BOZARTH)
X-Newsreader: PCBoard Version 15.22
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IG>ÿ#FROM   :sheba@panix.com                                             N
IG>ÿ#UMSGID :<4lhfjf$t46@panix3.panix.com>                               N
IG>ÿ@UNEWSGR:01rec.crafts.metalworking                                   N
IG>Path: jolt.pagesat.net!pagesat.net!in-news.erinet.com!imci5!pull-feed.inter
IG>ci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!not-for-mail
IG>From: sheba@panix.com (Insect God)
IG>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking

IG>I'm looking for a vacuum pump for small casting.

I have had good luck using a Ford (York) air conditioner compressor for
a vacuum pump. I think I pulled around 20 inches using a 1/3 hp electric
motor. If you used a 1/2 hp with a better pulley ratio I think it would
work for you.

Wood-Met Services Inc., 3314 W. Shoff Circle, Peoria, IL 61604  sell a
set of plans (their number 107) on how to make a compressor/vacuum pump
with the Ford type compressor.
                           dave.bozarth@kandy.com
---
 þ OLX 2.1 TD þ MSI - Bringing it all together in '92


From gedwards@onramp.net Sun May  5 13:57:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!bcm.tmc.edu!newshost.convex.com!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEED steady rest for SB 10K
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 21:35:25 -0500
Organization: On-Ramp; Individual Internet Connections; Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 4
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To: Steve Davis <sld@nikodyne.com>

You might try Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc.  P.O. Box 536
Hurricane, WV  25526-0536...Telelphone: 1-800-872-6500.
Fax:  304-562-5311.  They list South Bend Equipment and accessories in
their catalog.


From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: 28 Apr 1996 18:57:22 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4m0f2i$1q72@useneta1.news.prodigy.com>
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X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

>Using this method, you can use gage blocks to set outsed radii, or 
rotate it
>and use verniers to set inside radii.
>Paul


Paul,

Thanks for the reply,  I now see how to do this.  The cresent shaped tool 
holder that pivots is held in place on a short stub shaft made of 3/8" 
drill rod.   I will make a 4" long shaft from 3/8" drill rod and insert 
it in place of the stub shaft.  Moving the cutting bit so it touches the 
drill rod will set it to cut a .1875" (.375/2) convex radius.   Once a 
known radius is set the tool bit can be moved to the desired radius.   
Milling a flat to the center of the 4" shaft would make it setable with 
calipers or gage blocks.  Also, a sleeve could be slipped over the 4" 
shaft to set the tool bit to the diameter of the sleeve. 





From rcb@gemmary.com Sun May  5 13:57:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.zNET.net!news
From: "R.C. Blankenhorn" <rcb@gemmary.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: CURTA Calculators
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 20:01:30 -0700
Organization: The Gemmary
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We sell Curta Calculators Type I & II, fully functional, in original
cases.  Type I: $575.  Type II: $750.

To see a photo, look at our website under additional instruments.
http://www.gemmary.com/rcb/


R.C. Blankenhorn
The Gemmary
rcb@gemmary.com


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:57:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 27 Apr 1996 01:05:23 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 21
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References: <3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net> <4lmf8m$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com><3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net> <4lmf8m$kjg@mule2.mindspring.com> <4lpkdf$m9b@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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In message <4lpkdf$m9b@newsreader.wustl.edu> - jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
->
<snip>
->So, if you have a milling machine that has slop in the table, or a lathe
->with enough wear in the bed to cause problems, and you want to try hand-
->scraping it, this is probably the only full-size book still in print that
->will help you.  I beleive it was WELL worth the price to me!
->

I bought the book a few years back right after I bought my Clausing 13x40
lathe. The machine had been used for threading crane hooks for years, and the
bed was worn badly( .009 depression ~8" from the headstock). I took me about
2 months of 'couple hour a night' work, but I did get the bed straight again
:)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From michael_moore@usa.pipeline.com Sun May  5 13:57:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: michael_moore@usa.pipeline.com(Michael A. Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Taiwan machines
Date: 27 Apr 1996 23:49:36 GMT
Organization: Pipeline USA
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I've noticed some threads about the import machines.  I think that if you
shop carefully you can get an excellent deal.  I have a 10x24 Select lathe
and a 2hp Bridgeport copy Samson mill.  They have given excellent service,
and the mill checked out within Bridgeport specs on table runout when I got
it.  Remember, for the hobby shop you don't need to be concerned about the
ability to run 3 shifts a day, 7 days a week. 
 
Another plus is that the money you spend on an import with tooling will
match the price for a bare Bridgeport (I checked).  I've also been told
that Bridgeport is sourcing its main castings from overseas anyway. 
 
Michael Moore 
SF, CA


From tc@execpc.com Sun May  5 13:57:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!daily-planet.execpc.com!usenet
From: "Anthony J. Cesarone" <tc@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Request for information
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 14:03:01 -0500
Organization: Exec-PC BBS - Milwaukee, WI
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Does anyone know where I can get a used eletric oven for the purpose of 
heating metal parts to about 400 degrees F? Minimum internal dimensions 
are 24" X 24" X 24". Thanks for any info. Please reply to tc@execpc.com


From mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu Sun May  5 13:57:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!hermes.louisville.edu!news
From: mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu (Terry McCreary)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chemical silvering
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 04:07:03 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

>I just recieved an interesting/insulting flame about my posting re: the 
>formation of an explosive from chemical silvering chemicals.  It should 
>be noted that I was refering to chemical deposition of silver, not 
>electroplating.                                                                                                      

>Every book I have on the subject has this warning.  This includes the  
>Amateur Telescope Making series by Scientific American.  

You are correct.  Chemical silvering solution does have the potential
to form an explosive compound.  In the organic chemistry lab we teach
the students to use the so-called "Tollens test".  A positive test
forms a silver mirror on the inside of a test tube.  Immediately after
the test, the text instructions are to discard the contents into an
appropriately treated waste container (destroys the ammonia-silver
complex) and rinse well, else an explosion can result.  Not a very
violent one, but even a small explosion can ruin one's day.

Incidentally, I've found the instructions on silvering given in "How
to Make a Telescope", J. Texereau, to be the easiest to follow.

T. McCreary, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Chemistry
"I don't need a disclaimer.  Everyone knows that I don't know what I'm
talking about."



From reelcolors@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Panagraph
Date: 27 Apr 1996 23:35:55 -0400
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I guess I am the artist type. I engrave any artwork my customers send me
on their Penn International, Fin-Nor and  Orvis fishing reels. I also
restore and re-anodize them in any color to match their color samples.

I'll tell you one thing I cant do !!  Sharpen a damn single edge cutting
tool !! I have a old Gorton tool sharpener and the book, but  the tools I
sharpen ( about 1 hour a tool) seem to plow through the work.

Any tip's ( no pun intended)  would be greatly appreciated..

                                                         Thanks 

                                                       Tom
Testa................................. 

PS - I Have 3 machines , one is a GORTON 3-U , Probebly the same as the
one you used. Its great..


From cbear81438@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 27 Apr 1996 09:06:51 -0400
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Get a Bridgeport Vertical or good BPT copy


Cecil


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 26 Apr 1996 05:00:14 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Michael Wood (thor@expressway.com) wrote:
: I'm currently trying to fabricate a false bottom for a stainless steel
: kettle and am having problems finding the material. I need light
: (18ga) stainless sheet with small holes in it like 3/32". I've seen
: this material in already fabricated projects. Does anyone know of a
: supplier who might carry this and sell it in small qty's?

Whenever you need something really odd, look to Small Parts, Inc.
They have perforated Stainless sheet, as well as real SS wire screen.
The SS perf comes with .045" .062" .125" and .187" holes.  The smallest
hole size is on .0187" thick sheet, the other sizes are on .0312"
thick sheet.  A 12 x 12" piece goes for $25-30 each, a 12 x 24" piece
is $42 - 50.

They also have SS wire cloth (screen) in 11 sizes, form 6 to 200 mesh
(.1317 to .0029" openings, respectively).  This is sold in 3 x 6",
6 x 12" and 12 x 24" pieces.  The 12 x 24" pieces go for $30 - 43, a
little cheaper than the perf sheet, but the 3 x 6" pieces are $2.36 - 3.18.
These are all type 304 SS.  they also carry this material in twilled
square weave and twilled dutch weave.

Small Parts is in Miami Lakes FL, (800) 220-4242.



From XRKF89A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: XRKF89A@prodigy.com (Richard Hyde)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ's.  Where???
Date: 27 Apr 1996 04:33:01 GMT
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I recall a group of FAQ's posted awhile back, one which contained an 
extensive listing of suppliers for metalworking parts and materials.  
Where can I find these FAQ's?  Is it archived anywhere.  If so, how do I 
get to it?



From sentry3@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sentry3@ix.netcom.com (Peter Katz )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: 28 Apr 1996 18:14:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 43
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Hi,
Saugus Iron Works is located just 20 minutes north of Boston by car.
(when there is not monumental traffic)  There are signs directing you
to the place.  Ifyou are going I will give you better directions.  It
is an interesting place.  Better yet for metalworking and jewelry is
the area around Attleboro MA.  Lots of manufacturing plants ofr metal. 
That is about 1 1/2 hours south of Boston proper.  Providence RI and
Cranston RI are also areas of maufacture for the metals industry.  Get
a hold of a copy of the MJSA  Maufactring Jewlers Society of America ,
One State Stret, Providence RI 02908.  They would have info about the
topics that you are interested in.
      Beth Katz   sentry3@ix.ntcom.com

a In <4lp99o$h90@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
writes: 
>
>Yes, I understand that Saugus Ironworks is a national site.  I was a
wee bit
>young when I last saw it (in 1960!), but at that time, it wasn't
completely
>working, but they had some of the machinery under power.
>
>Hmm, not sure if it was a foundry so mauch as a iron/steel making
place
>with a bunch of forgine equipment.  OTOH, it's worth a side trip.
>
>Saugus is a bit outside of Boston--check your rent-a-wreck maps....
>
>Pete Brooks
>
>: Although I have no near term plans for visiting that area, Dan's
question 
>: brings up a site that I have heard about.  I understand there is an
old 
>: foundary near Boston.  Is is something like Saugus?  Anyway, if
there is 
>: someone in the area who can answer Dan's question, how about
something on 
>: that foundary.
>
>: Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
>: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com



From vkumar@best.com Sun May  5 13:57:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vkumar@best.com (vijay kumar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: 28 Apr 1996 02:59:06 GMT
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Milwaulee makes a 1.25" super hole shooter, model 2404-1, Metabo makes a model 
6030 1.5" drill.  I am sure there are many others, specially if you include the 
rotary hammer drills.

In article <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jcarducci@aol.com says...
>
>What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made. I thought 
>that perhaps for the ship building trade there may have been large 
>electric hand drills. I thought of this while I was moving a giant Black &
>Decker 3/4" 3/4hp drill I have. I'd like to know how much bigger they get.
>(I found my B & D at a scrap yard and rebuilt it!)
>
>Curious minds wanna know!
>jc  



From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Sun May  5 13:57:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 21:26:31 mountain
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In article <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com> bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon) writes:
>From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
>Subject: forming sheet aluminum
>Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 21:14:57 GMT

>Years ago, I read that builders of one-off racing cars used some device 
>consisting of a pair of powered wheels pressing together to form sheet 
>aluminum into fenders and other body bits.
<snip>

I recently purchased "The English Wheel Book", by David L. Anderson from
Lindsay.  He gives very thorough information for the construction of at least 
three different sizes of English wheels, but not too much on the actual use of 
an English wheel.  My friend Bob the welder is welding up the frames for two, 
(one for me, one for him) and I am machining the wheels.  By the way, one 
wheel of the pair is flat, and one has a radius turned on the face.  The 
wheels are not powered, and from my limited experience with English wheels, I 
think powered wheels would be very difficult to use.  I recently watched a 
technician make a replacement fuel tank for a motorcycle from the 1920s 
on an English wheel.

				RJG


From blake@ncweb.com Sun May  5 13:57:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating and anodizing
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 01:09:12 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
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In article <4lr8oa$agj@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, nperry3089@aol.com
(NPerry3089) wrote:

$ What should a person know about these two processes? 

I use powder coating all the time for my silhouette metal sign brackets. 
It is easier and cheaper than paint and it gets all the edges of my
intricate pieces.  It's more durable than most paints too.  A good
preparation of the metal is a must though- make sure the coating shop you
deal with does this properly.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Sun May  5 13:57:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 05:07:25 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) wrote:

>I<snip>

>However,
>-> silver solutions, nitrate or otherwise, can react with ammonia upon standing
>(days, usually) to form explosive mixtures of silver nitride, Ag3N which
>are very 
>tempermental.  Because the silvering solutions (after they've been mixed)
>contain 
>silver nitrate  and ammonia, they should be disposed of within a day or
>so.  It's
>best to neutralize the ammonia first with vinegar, for example, or HCl
>(muriatic acid).

>If anyone is interested, I have a pretty good description of the mirroring
>process I
>could post.

>-Don Berry
>berry@a.chem.upenn.edu
>-- 
>berry@a.chem.upenn.edu

Don,

I would like to see your mirroring process post.

Jim Waggener
creativ@infi.net



From blake@ncweb.com Sun May  5 13:57:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Paint on galvanised steel
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 01:04:43 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
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In article <4lq26c$2hh@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk>, rxg@crosfield.co.uk
(Richard Griffin) wrote:

$ This summer I have to repaint a horse box (equine transporter). 
$ It's constructed as a mild steel frame (2"x1" section, slightly rusty
under the
$ existing paint) panelled with galvanised 0.04" steel sheet. When it was 
$ originally painted no primer was used and the paint is bubbling off the
$ galvanised and falling off the frames. The frames are exposed outside the
$ paneling.
$ 
$ What is the best kind of primer to use for galvanised steel?
$ 
$ The job will have to be done outside when the sun shines and the final coats 
$ will probably be coach enamel applied by hand and rubbed down for a reasonable
$ finish. This is not going to be a concours finish, just a serviceable coat of
$ paint to last maybe six years.
$ 
$ Total area is about 350 sq foot (31 sq mtrs)
$ 
$ I need to know generic types of paint, not brand names (I guess most of the
$ information will come from the US but the paint will be obtained in England).
$ 
$ Thanks in advance for any help.
$ 
$ Richard Griffin.

I would strip all the old paint off.  Wash the whole thing down with a
phosphoric acid metal prep (available at auto parts store) and prime with
Dupont Vari-Prime self-etching primer.  This stuff really is good and will
stick to galvanized, stainless steel, and fiberglass.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 27 Apr 1996 05:32:58 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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brian stewart (kalish1@ix.netcom.com) wrote:

: Can anybody tell me what would be the perfect milling machine for
: making gun parts.  I am a licensed collector of curio and relic
: firearms and would like to be able to manufacture my own parts to
: repair obsolete rifles and pistols.  Also, should I purchase a used
: machine or buy one of the new ones.  I figure the biggest part would be
: twelve inches long and no more than four inches thick.  

Well, with 12" parts, I think the Sherline-size machines are too small.
I have an Antique Bridgeport in my basement, and I really like it.  I
have an Enco 3-in-1 machine at work, and I DON'T like it!  I think a
knee-type machine is a real plus, but the bench machines with movable
head can be used, with some small disadvantages.  Most of them lose
the X (and a little bit of Y) position of the head when you have to elevate
it.  Anyway, if you have the room, an old Bridgeport or other small,
knee-type machine is a lot better built than some of the cheaper import
machines.  Beware that the old, Bridgeport M-series head usually comes
with the Brown & Sharpe #7 spindle taper, which is a lot less common than
the R-8 taper on the newer machines.



From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:57:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:55:16 BST
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brew@overlord.edp.net (Wayne P. Holland) wrote:

> . I'd reccomend this place to anybody who is interested in steam or
> machinery

  And if they're also interested in automata, the Mechanical Music
Museum is only a short walk up the road from the pumping station.
  -- 
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"


From sentry3@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sentry3@ix.netcom.com (Peter Katz )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 28 Apr 1996 17:57:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Apr 28 12:57:35 PM CDT 1996

Mike,
One of the best places to find the screen you want is Small Parts, Inc.
 They are located in Miami Florida  area code is 305, I don't have
their phone number but I am sure you can get it from information.
Hope this helps
Beth Katz

theIn <4lka47$e64@hilbert.dnai.com> thor@expressway.com (Michael Wood)
writes: 
>
>I'm currently trying to fabricate a false bottom for a stainless steel
>kettle and am having problems finding the material. I need light
>(18ga) stainless sheet with small holes in it like 3/32". I've seen
>this material in already fabricated projects. Does anyone know of a
>supplier who might carry this and sell it in small qty's?
>
>Mike
>



From rturner@ecg.com Sun May  5 13:57:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rturner@ecg.com (Richard Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: pewter
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 18:07:14 GMT
Organization: heh, heh, heh....no comment
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Dana <Dana@i-link.net> wrote:

:>if anyone can give me sone info on pewter casting, either the
:>names of some books, or some web pages, im looking for general,
:>newbie type on info here, i would really appriciate it.
:>
:>-- 
:>Dana@i-link.net
:>***************
:>I think all extremists should be shot.

The only technique I'm familiar with (and use) is centrifugal rubber
mold casting.  The absolute best book on this subject is "Principles
of Centrifugal Rubber Mold Casting" by Marshall Ritch and a man named
Gonigberg.  I spent years looking for it, but I think I finally found
it at Rio Grande.

Richard

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Richard Turner
rturner@ecg.com
Elaine Coyne Galleries 
http://www.mindspring.com/~ecg/ecg.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From franzh@cpcug.org Sun May  5 13:57:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Franz Hespenheide <franzh@cpcug.org>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 23:10:25 -0700
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <31830BD1.CB7@cpcug.org>
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Say Guy...

Keep this CRAP off of our newsgroup!!  This scheme is known as a Ponzi
scheme, is probably illegal, and is based on the "Greater Fool" Theory. 
All a person needs to do is find a greater fool than they are and to 
convince them to throw their money away on this Crap!!

I hope the Feds grab you and toss you in the can for a long time! 


KeEric Foster wrote:
> 
> Hello! I've got some awesome news that I think you need to take two
> minutes


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 27 Apr 1996 05:22:49 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 26
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Russ Kepler (russ@bbxrbk.basis.com) wrote:
: I am now ayt the point where I either cannot properly sharpen tooling,
: or need better equipment to do so.  In that like I don't find a lot of
: options that fit my needs:

: 1) Ability to sharpen HSS, CS, and carbide
: 2) Inside and outside grinding
: 3) Potential to upgrade to sharpening of endmills (face only, most
:    likely) and other such tooling.

: Currently, my most pressing need is to accurately sharpen brazed
: carbide lathe tools as well as inserts.

	 made an arbor so I could run standard 1 1/4" ID grinding wheels
on my bridgeport.  I have been sharpening end mills lately with it, but
I have also used it to make a boring bar out of solid HSS and other,
similar grinding work.  I got a very small cylindrical diamond grinder point
some years ago for touching up carbides.  I ran it in a micro drill press.
It was a little difficult to use because of the small point, but it did
work.  That set me back something like $18!

JTS has a 3 3/4" (I think) diamond cup wheel (with 1 1/4" center) on
sale this month for $49.95.  That is definitely a bargain.  They also
have some metal-backed diamond face wheels at good prices.  These can
be adapted to standard bench grinders.  I just got that diamond cup wheel,
but I haven't tried it yet.


From babydeer@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.worldpath.net!news.cic.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: babydeer@ix.netcom.com(bambi)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: 28 Apr 1996 15:03:27 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4lv3jd$i7c@newsbf02.news.aol.com> rwalter2@aol.com (RWalter2)
writes: 
>
>Everyone **PLEASE** E-mail the author of this trash and tell him how
much
>you appreciate this posting.
>  His address:  yoon@csugrad.cs.vt.edu (Eric Foster) 

he must think we are dumber than dirt to fall for a chain
letter/pyramid scheme.  but then pt barnum did say there's a sucker
born every minute.


From bjc@nworks.com Sun May  5 13:57:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 16:29:50 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Message-ID: <tcpnntpd.16.4.28.16.29.50.2645935021.542519@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks Online Service
NNTP-Posting-Host: nworks.com
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-=> Quoting Int:berry@a.chem.upenn.ed to ** All ** <=-


 In> If anyone is interested, I have a pretty good description
 In> of the mirroring process I could post.

 In> -Don Berry

Please do

Regards,
Brad Chaucer

... The ultimate oxymoron:  Holy War.

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Sun May  5 13:57:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!news.nstn.ca!coranto.ucs.mun.ca!news.unb.ca!scratchy.mi.net!news
From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tig Welder
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 01:01:39 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
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Just wondering if anyone has any comments or experience with the MILLER
ECONOTIG welder. I have been hobby welding for a couple of years with a 
MILLERMATIC 130 mig welder, and was thinking about adding a tig welder
to the fun. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks 

   Jeff Trites


From jcarducci@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Using HCl to degalvanize steel?
Date: 27 Apr 1996 01:53:01 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I didn't seem to notice if you are going to dip the whole piece or small
portions
at one time. Either way don't smoke while you're doing it. You will be
generating enough Hydrogen gas for quite a party! I'd also suggest 
neutralizing the work in a slightly alkaline bath afterwards then rinsing 
thoroughly. If you can rinse it in a final bath of methanol, which will 
displace most of the water, you could dry it quickly anf minimize rust.
And it will rust most quickly after the iron surface is etched.

jc 


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: 28 Apr 1996 17:04:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <31837781.41DE@dmauch.seanet.com>, Dan Mauch
<dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com> writes:

>Yesterday a guy from Portland Or drove all the way up to Seattle to 
>have me set up his Sherline milling Machine. He bought the stepper 
>motors and stepper motor mounts from BILLG63745@aol.com and got the 
>three axis controller from me. The extrusions that Bill provided we 
>beautiful and the installation was quite simple and easy to accomplish.
>I added the stepper motor controller and we ran the unit. It ran 
>beautifully. This guy had mounted a homemade DRP using digital vernieer 
>calibers. It was a joy to setup with the DRO. The bottom line is that I 
>was very impressed with the Sherline Mill and with Bill Griffins stepper 
>motors and mounts. If you have a Sherline or planning to buy one and you 
>want to convert it to CNC drop Bill or me a line. We can help you get up 
>and running.

What kind of  speed did you get? How did Bill's motor mounts bolt on? Did 
this setup use thrust bearings? TIA.

Bill Rittner


From jcarducci@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Military models- working
Date: 27 Apr 1996 01:56:59 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 8
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Is there anyone else out there who builds or is interested in building
military vehicle subjects? I build in the 1/10 scale mostly fully tracked
vehicles. I work with sand cast aluminum at present, do my own machine
work and am looking to get into vacuum assist investment casting.

Anyone else working on military subjects?

jc 


From neidorff@uicc.com Sun May  5 13:57:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.ems.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!scramble.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.magg.net!news.bridge.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!world!mv!chillon!neidorff
From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Pipe for air tank?
Message-ID: <DqJwvq.9Gu@uicc.com>
Sender: news@uicc.com (USENET News System)
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 02:43:02 GMT
Lines: 13

What do you think of the idea of using a long 4" or 6" diameter
steel pipe as an air tank?  I was even thinking of an old lolly
column or something.  You could weld a plate on the ends, or even
better, thread the ends and screw on caps, then seal the caps with
a weld bead.  This can't be an original thought.  There must be a
major problem with this.

Come to think of it, what is so special about commercial air 
tanks, other than the fact that they are pressure tested?
--
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564


From jasclb@tdl.com Sun May  5 13:57:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.consultix.com!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!aanews.merit.net!imci3!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.tdl.com!usenet
From: jasclb@tdl.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades
Date: 28 Apr 1996 05:24:52 GMT
Organization: The Diamond Lane
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4luvf4$bs6@news.tdl.com>
References: <4leaim$q9a@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lu0sv$ssp@crl2.crl.com>
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2.5

In <4lu0sv$ssp@crl2.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
>In article <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Edk4 <edk4@aol.com> wrote:
>>I have been unable to find a supplier of welded-to-size bandsaw blades for
>>a 15" Delta Metal Cutting Bandsaw (93 1/2")  - specifically in the
>>configuration:
>>
>>         3/4" wide, and 6-10 TPI (variable tooth).
>>
>>Plenty of 100' coils, but no single, sized blade in that size.
>>Any ideas? I've looked at a lot of catalogues.
Rutland Tools (1.800.289.4787) welds blades up to custom length, even one at a time.
They offer a discount for 10 or more blades of the same length. I haven't tried them,
though.

John Swensen



From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Sun May  5 13:57:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!legba.synergy.net!news.scruz.net!cruzio.com!news
From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 21:34:24 GMT
Message-ID: <DqFt9C.BK4@cruzio.com>
To: packrat@PEAK.ORG
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.22 (Windows; U; 16bit)
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Sender: news@cruzio.com (The News User)
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Jon --

Can you provide a little more detail?  Thanks.

               Frank

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
packrat@PEAK.ORG (Jon Winlund) wrote:
>You will really be sorry if you buy from Enco.
>
>The voice of bitter experience.
>
>packrat@proaxis.com




From jcarducci@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: 27 Apr 1996 02:01:58 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 8
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci)

What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made. I thought 
that perhaps for the ship building trade there may have been large 
electric hand drills. I thought of this while I was moving a giant Black &
Decker 3/4" 3/4hp drill I have. I'd like to know how much bigger they get.
(I found my B & D at a scrap yard and rebuilt it!)

Curious minds wanna know!
jc  


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sun May  5 13:57:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Message-ID: <1996Apr28.124745.879@flying-disk.com>
Date: 28 Apr 96 12:47:45 PDT
References: <4ku739$503@nntpa.cb.att.com> <4luhli$ck4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <DqKJz2.MqE@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 45

Besides the poor quality of the Enco brand products, another
thing that disturbs me is their attitude.

Item #1:

I was at their store in Glendale, California, one afternoon
about 20 minutes before closing time.   Just after I entered,
one of the countermen, commenting that he was tired, went
over, locked the door and turned the sign to "closed".   At
that point there were three or four customers inside.

A few minutes later (still before closing time), another
customer arrived and could not get in.   He knocked and
pointed to the posted hours, but the countermen ignored
him.   When the remaining customers completed their purchases
they were led to another door and quickly let out.

The customer waiting outside saw what was happening and
went to the other door to try and slip in.   The counterman
yelled at him to go away, saying that they were closed and
ignoring the customer's protestations about the posted hours.
When the counterman returned to wait on me, he commented on
how rude the person outside was.   At this time it was *still*
before the posted closing time.

Item #2:

To supplement the two countermen, a young woman was added
to the staff.   On almost every visit I heard the two men
make demeaning comments to and about her, often throwing in
references to her gender.    Several times, they refused to
help her (she was very small) with large heavy items.   On
several occasions I heard them order her about as if she
were a slave instead of an employee.

I complained to their regional office in Costa Mesa about both
of these problems, but never saw any improvement.   In fact,
the person I spoke to at the regional office didn't seem to
really care about my complaint, as if I were an interruption
in his busy day.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From rwalter2@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rwalter2@aol.com (RWalter2)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: 28 Apr 1996 02:35:25 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Everyone **PLEASE** E-mail the author of this trash and tell him how much
you appreciate this posting.
  His address:  yoon@csugrad.cs.vt.edu (Eric Foster) 


From posmjohn@wrldnet.net Sun May  5 13:57:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: posmjohn@wrldnet.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvils and Other Blacksmithing Tools
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 13:33:14 PDT
Organization: WorldNet	
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <NEWTNews.830378152.22665.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net>
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In Article<cheney_ba-1704961007450001@132.226.104.145>, <cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com> write:
> Path: zeus.wrldnet.net!news3.agis.net!agis!franklin.icok.net!news1.agis.net!agis!news.getnet.com!news.dgsys.com!en.com!in-news.erinet.com!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!nntp.sei.cm
u.edu!jmf-amct.atc.alcoa.com!NewsWatcher!user
> From: cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com (B. A. CHENEY)
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Anvils and Other Blacksmithing Tools
> Date: 17 Apr 1996 14:06:49 GMT
> Organization: Alcoa Technical Center
> Lines: 20
> Message-ID: <cheney_ba-1704961007450001@132.226.104.145>
> References: <NEWTNews.829669692.30508.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net>
> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.226.104.145
> X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b27+
> 
> In article <NEWTNews.829669692.30508.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net>,
> posmjohn@wrldnet.net wrote:
> 
> > Hello to all,
> >     I've been looking for an anvil (100-200 lbs) that's in good working 
> > condition and is reasonably priced.  I've been blacksmithing for about 2
> years 
> > at our local historic district and want to set up a forge at home. 
> <<Snip-a-Rola (TM)>>
> 
> Good Luck!  It took me about 4 years of haunting antique shops/junk
> shops/estate sales/etc. before I found a good anvil & forge for a
> reasonable price - $150 for both 8-{)> .  Even then, I didn't locate it -
> an acquaintance 1500 miles away did!
> 
> I'd suggest asking your friends, family, blacksmithing acquaintances, etc,
> to keep their eyes open for you!
> 
> -- 
> It is the opinion of the author that the opinions of the author are the 
author's opinions, not the opinions of those not the author.

Thanks for your reply & sorry for taking so long to get back to you.  I've 
heard of a few places in Mississippi that might have what I'm looking for so, 
I'm going to try closer to home first (trying to save shipping $).  I guess 
shipping by Grayhound would be the cheapest.

John



From posmjohn@wrldnet.net Sun May  5 13:57:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: posmjohn@wrldnet.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvils and Other Blacksmithing Tools
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 13:36:57 PDT
Organization: WorldNet	
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <NEWTNews.830378304.23161.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net>
References: <newtnews.829669692.30508.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net> <4l8rd0$246u@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>  <4leiin$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
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In Article<4leiin$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, 
<mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org> write:
> Path: 
zeus.wrldnet.net!news3.agis.net!agis!agis!op.net!newsfeed.direct.ca!imci2!news.
internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich
edu!usenet
> From: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org (mike wolfe)
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Re: Anvils and Other Blacksmithing Tools
> Date: 22 Apr 1996 00:06:47 GMT
> Organization: University of Michigan
> Lines: 22
> Message-ID: <4leiin$kaa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
> References: <newtnews.829669692.30508.posmjohn@posmjohn.wrldnet.net> 
<4l8rd0$246u@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
> Reply-To: mwolfe@m-net.arbornet.org(mike wolfe)
> NNTP-Posting-Host: pm074-06.dialip.mich.net
> X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+
> 
> In article <4l8rd0$246u@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, KHJC64B@prodigy.com 
(Robert Lorenz) says:
> >BLACKSMITH TOOLS:
> 
> Ron bishop has built up a collection of tools over the last
> 15 years, He likes to buy, sell or trade these items.
> 
> If you are in the market for Blacksmith tools. ANVILS,
> powerhammers, tongs, Hosfield benders,and many other
> tons of stuff. 
> CALL RON BISHOP in Ypsilanti, Mich.
> @ (313) 483-5909
> 
> 
> >I was at Remington Machinery Sales 44143 Groesbeck Hwy., Clinton Twp., Mi.
> > 48036  Tel. 810-465-6946  Fax 810-465-7408 and he had about 8 different 
> >size anvils for sale.  I asked about one about 150lbs made in England and 
> >he said I could buy it for $150.00. I did not buy it but just wanted to 
> >see what his prices were like.  Perhaps he would have what you need. 
> >-
> >  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com
> >
> >

Thanks for the info.  $1/pound is reasonable.  I wonder how much Greyhound 
will charge for shipping??

John



From congreve@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ways to protect ways and screws from grit and swarf
Date: 27 Apr 1996 01:48:26 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4lruda$3al@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bir-al1-24.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Apr 26  8:48:26 PM CDT 1996

In the "horiz. mill as surface grinder" thread the suggestion came up
of using towelling to protect the machine.  I've always been scared of
cloth rags in the shop wherever they could get caught in a spinning
spindle or screw, and have used kitchen aluminum foil instead.  It
doesn't have the virtue of the stuff clinging to it, but on the other
hand no harm is done if it snags, and it is very easy to shape around
whatever you're trying to protect from grit and swarf.

                         --Alan Heldman


From secure1245@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: secure1245@aol.com (Secure1245)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 27 Apr 1996 03:45:33 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Seeing some writing in an antique auto mag and some experience in
stretching and shrinking various metals I can add a very little. The
English wheel art can be mastered in a very short time if you have the
metal to play with. You use diferent pressures, lengths and, directions of
the pull through and combos thereof. Judging these amounts depending on
the metal type, thickness, amount of curvature,ect., is the skill. Getting
used to your tools tension to amount of deformity per metal type ect. BTW
the wheels were a hard rubber if I recall in the material I read.  Have
fun keep us posted on the progress. 

ESC/C Robert **-_- /\/\/\ __Consultants


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal tourism near Boston, MA?
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 09:52:25 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <pvPtwOZ.hayesp@delphi.com>
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X-To: Dan Moore <djmoor1@pop.uky.edu>

Dan Moore <djmoor1@pop.uky.edu> writes:
 
>I am heading for Boston this week and
>would like to hear about any metal
>related sights thatare not to be missed.
>Blacksmithing related stuff would be 
>particularly interesting to me.
 
Don't miss the Saugus MA Iron Works. Ther are signs all over town to direct
you. Take Route 1 North, about 10 miles.
Paul


From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Sun May  5 13:57:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: horiz. mill as surface grinder?
Date: 25 Apr 96 19:46:01 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 39
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congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:

>Looking at the catalogs, surface grinders which appear to be just about
>identical to small horizontal milling machines are offered, and are
>very expensive. Is there any good reason (except for the problem of
>keeping grit out of lead screws and such) not to use a horizontal
>milling machine for surface grinding?

>Thanks.
>               Alan Heldman


First off, for small shop use, it will probably work. Here are the issues:

1) As you mention, grit on the ways and leadscrews is a big issue.
Once the grit is there it "beds" in the surface and is hard to get rid of.
Of course machine wear is dramatically increased.  "Real" surface grinders
generally have the ways "turned upside down" and shrouded by overhangs on
the machine table to protect them.

2) Spindle speeds might not be as high as you might like.  Most small SG's
use 3600 rpm wheel speed.

3) Work speed under the wheel will not be as high as you might like.  You
typically traverse the work under the wheel at a pretty good clip. On a
SG, at least older ones, a rack and pinion was used to make this easy. On
a mill, you'll have to crank fast (unless you have something like a production
or hand mill).  Surface grinding usually implies lots of fast passes with
very little metal removed per pass (~0.001 or less).  I'm talking toolroom
grinding here, not production grinding.  Your arm will get very muscular
>from  all that cranking!  Less than optimal speeds/feeds will degrade finish.

On balance, cover the ways and lead screws (really well), run the spindle at
top speed (not to exceed the wheel rating of course), take light cuts and
crank fast.  Try it.  (don't forget to be careful taking the coverings off
the ways that you don't get the grit on the ways)

Greg
gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:57:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: chemical silvering
Message-ID: <1996Apr27.094330.3816@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 09:43:30 GMT
Lines: 13


I just recieved an interesting/insulting flame about my posting re: the 
formation of an explosive from chemical silvering chemicals.  It should 
be noted that I was refering to chemical deposition of silver, not 
electroplating.                                                                                                      

Every book I have on the subject has this warning.  This includes the  
Amateur Telescope Making series by Scientific American.  
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ernieleim@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tig Welder
Date: 28 Apr 1996 04:39:06 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 43
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4lvara$jdn@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

>"Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca> wrote: 
> 
>>Just wondering if anyone has any comments or experience with the MILLER 
>>ECONOTIG welder. I have been hobby welding for a couple of years with a 

>>MILLERMATIC 130 mig welder, and was thinking about adding a tig welder 
>>to the fun. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. 

Well I have owned one for over 2 years and I love it.
It has limitations as far as low end control and high end power, but
portability and size are very important to me. Several people have
mentioned that it lackes guts, but I disagree. It welds 1/4 inch materiel
easily, and handles 1/16" - 3/16" materiel with a geat deal of finesse.
To get more heat and cleaner welds I have a helium tank and argon tank
hooked together to give me an adjustable " live mix" . This gas combo
boosts the heat considerably, and works great on all metals.
I love the fact that I can disconnect all the cables and roll it into my
truck.
 I do a lot of freelance welding at various locations for TV, theatre,
film and display shops, and it makes it possible for me to make money on
the rental as well as the work.
It doesn't make sense for a production shop doing heavy welding, but for a
home hobbiest it is outstanding. 
Sure if you can find a used 300 amp cybertig for $500, you could weld
bigger things with greater control, but do you really want a winebago
sized machine parked in your basement or garage shop. 
For the money, size, and versatility it is a great deal.

Best of luck

@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From rbreitz@eclipse.net Sun May  5 13:57:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news2.digex.net!news1.digex.net!news.eclipse.net!usenet
From: Rich Reitz <rbreitz@eclipse.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 22:16:55 -0400
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3182D517.3FDD@eclipse.net>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
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vince49@usa.pipeline.com wrote:
> 
> In article <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com>, Lycanthrope writes:
> 
> >... these are my questions.
> >
> > I am in the market for a 10-14 inch metal working lathe. I have heard
> some
> >conflicting stories about Enco equipment ....
> 
> DON'T DO IT.
> 
> I bought an entire shop from  ENCO
> I would kill them if I could

An old piece of junk that you'd find on the side of the road
is better than ENCO..All their stuff is made by 5 cent an hour
labor in CHINA...All of it. Buy American or European made products if 
you can.  This stuff will last decades and will actually turn out 
cheaper to own in the long-run. It's the old saying "Buy Cheap-Get 
Cheap", and "You get what you pay for".. I called them two years ago,
to order a lathe.....they were so rude and obnoxious that I hung up.
Since then I've spoken to a lot of machinists about their equipment and
I am really glad they were rude and obnoxious or I would have wound up 
with a $4000. piece of garbage..


From esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk Sun May  5 13:57:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!warwick!not-for-mail
From: esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr J Brennan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Date: 28 Apr 1996 22:29:08 +0100
Organization: University of Warwick, Coventry, UK
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4m0nv4$6h5@crocus.csv.warwick.ac.uk>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:27492 rec.motorcycles:299040

In article <4lu6au$6k0@eve.speakeasy.org>,
	blackdog@speakeasy.org (David White) writes:
>Need a source for Whitworth and British Standard taps, dies
>and fasteners.  I've seen some ads in clasic motorcycle mags for fasteners
>but there all in England and don't advertize tools.  Any ideas?

Try Graham Engineering +44 121 525 3133 or fax +44 121 500 6453
They take vias and do mail order - it's just as easy as doing business
with the states. 

>
>
>
>David White
>Blackdog@speakeasy.org
>
>


-- 
John Brennan		Tel +44 1203 523973
University of Warwick,	Fax +44 1203 524144			
Coventry, CV4 7AL,UK	Email esrbz@warwick.ac.uk	
 


From billw@puli.cisco.com Sun May  5 13:57:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billw@puli.cisco.com (William )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: 28 Apr 1996 08:10:14 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Inc.
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <BILLW.96Apr28011014@puli.cisco.com>
References: <1996Apr26.130708.4443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
	<318152a2.5868077@news.northernnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: puli.cisco.com
In-reply-to: dwilkins@northernnet.com's message of Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:50:40 GMT

    >When you use silver nitrate solutions to silver an object, throw out the 
    >left over solution right away!  In about an hour, it will degrade into 
    >silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 
    >explode!

The criticisms seem a little harsh.  The ammonical silver nitrate solutions
CAN form an explosive compound that is usually referred to as "fulminating
silver", which is NOT the same thing as silver fulminate.  Silver fulminate
is pretty sensitive, but fulminating silver is worse...

BillW



From psh@islandnet.com Sun May  5 13:57:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tig Welder
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 06:55:45 -0700
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X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99d/16.182

"Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca> wrote:

>Just wondering if anyone has any comments or experience with the MILLER
>ECONOTIG welder. I have been hobby welding for a couple of years with a 
>MILLERMATIC 130 mig welder, and was thinking about adding a tig welder
>to the fun. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

I used to think that the EconoTig was something to have in the shop. I
have never owned or used one but after a demo at a local welding
supplies shop I decided that there just isn't enough power in one of
those units. In this demo, one of the employees of the shop was trying
to weld a small aluminum frame together. This was for a motorcycle
baggage rack and was 3/4" square tubular aluminum (don't know the wall
thickness). It was a very minor (in my opinion) job that should have
been done in 10 or 15 minutes. I left after about 15 minutes while the
chap was still working on the first weld (if I recall correctly). I
was totally surprised as to how much heat is needed for even small
jobs when working in aluminum and I decided that I would save my
dollars till I could afford something that would not be this limited.
Having said all this, if you keep the power limitations in mind and
are not likely to want to do aluminum work, I think it is a nice
machine (personal opinion, no experience to back that opinion)
Regards
Jens

PS: I own a Millermatic as well (250 model though) and it is working
nicely for me. I would have been OK with the 130 as far as power is
concerned as I rarely go above approx 1/2 power. I use the unit only
on mild steel though. If I was to do aluminum with it I think I would
need all the power it can dish out based on what I saw in the TIG
demo.


From jevelyn@mailserv.interhop.net Sun May  5 13:57:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!msunews!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!sunqbc.risq.net!pegasus.odyssee.net!news2.insinc.net!news.interhop.net!usenet
From: jevelyn@mailserv.interhop.net (J.Evelyn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Facts about converting AC welders to DC TIG machines
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 02:36:41 GMT
Organization: Interhop Network Service Ltd.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4lue78$i1r@news.interhop.net>
References: <27@emelec.win.net> <316AA36C.6B49@cdc.com><4kipvd$16c@nyx.cs.du.edu> <176@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <3172B064.7151@cdc.com><4kv9j7$t2n@news-e2c.gnn.com> <179@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) wrote:

> 
>In article <4kv9j7$t2n@news-e2c.gnn.com>, Richard Hager (RHager8881@gnn.com) writes:
>>David Jenkins wrote...

>...No I didn't!  Please get your attributions correct!

>;-)

>>
>>Okay, now I'm starting to get confused. Doesn't take 
>>much. I think...

><deletia>


>David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
>***********************************************************************
>* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
>* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *


What's this garbage



From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Sun May  5 13:57:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!esatst!charles
From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Message-ID: <DqKJz2.MqE@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 11:01:50 GMT
References: <4ku739$503@nntpa.cb.att.com> <4luhli$ck4@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 14

In article <4luhli$ck4@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Jhko <jhko@aol.com> wrote:
>
>By the way, I have a Enco-Mayer (different company, the guys in Austria)
>8" lathe and it has been great. More expensive, but not terribly pricey.
>The quality is excellent- really, really good. This company is  worth
>considering also.
>
That's why they are called EMCO (the "em" from Maier & Co.)

-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:57:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Message-ID: <1996Apr27.092047.3335@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <4lopsf$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <4jukqn$bbo@engnews1.eng.sun.com> <4k0bpq$3eq@zimmer.csufresno.edu> <4leq3e$la8@trib
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 09:20:47 GMT
Lines: 37



The electrical code in Canada, requires split duplex outlets for kitchen 
counters.


In a previous article, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) says:

>
>>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
>>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
>>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
>>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
>>nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
>>by breaking off the little ears.  Put black on top, red on bottom,
>>both to nuetral on the other side.  That gives me two 110 outlets that
>>are on different circuits.  
>
>This is called a split duplex outlet; it's common practice in Canada for
>"small appliance circuits" but doesn't seem to be used much in the US. If
>you're wiring in an environment that requires GFCI protection, you 
>need a tandem GFCI breaker on the circuit pair (expensive).
>
>It's also probably not a very good idea for motor circuits, since the 
>loading of each leg can be rather unbalanced, causing a lot of current
>flow through the neutral. 
>
>(I also hope you're wiring the ground and white separately, to frame ground 
>and neutral respectively - the paragraph above reads as if you're 
>wiring them together to frame ground, which is a no-no.)
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From andrewt@vcommons.com Sun May  5 13:57:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!news
From: Andrew Todd <andrewt@vcommons.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmithing Education
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 04:18:26 -0700
Organization: NETCOM Network Operations
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I)

Hello, writing from seattle. My girlfriend is an aspiring blacksmith. 
Does anyone have any ideas i.e. instructors, schools, ect.. Thanks. A.T.


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:57:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: 29 Apr 1996 00:46:30 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4m13h6$gdu@news.dwave.net>
References: <4lucp7$1k7m@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
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X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 999]

In message <4lucp7$1k7m@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> - VBTM10A@prodigy.com
(Dennis Wodtli)28 Apr 1996 00:05:59 GMT writes:
->
->I'm building a radius turning tool for my lathe and would like to know 
->how to set the radius of the tool bit.   This tool is a yoke with a 
->cresent shaped tool holder that is on a shaft with a handle you turn to 
->cut the radius.   It is a copy of the kind advertised in the catalogs for 
->about $500.
->
->Seems like some kind of jig to set the tool bit to zero radius would help.
->  Then move the tool bit to the radius you want by using the tailstock or 
->a lead screw handwheel.  Or is there a better way?
->
->Thanks in advance for any replies.

Couldn't you use a center in the tailstock to do -both-? First, close in on
the center til it just touches for a full sweep of the bit, (as far as
allowable anyway) Then, back off the tool until you measure the radius you
want from the point of the center to the tip of the tool.


pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:57:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 00:46:32 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4m13h8$gdu@news.dwave.net>
References: <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com><4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <318271bc.183528466@news.demon.co.uk>
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In message <318271bc.183528466@news.demon.co.uk> -
dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)Sun, 28 Apr 1996 01:03:36 GMT
writes:
->
->The moving finger of jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci) having written:
->
->>What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made.
->
->Depends what you mean by "hand". Steel framed buildings and shipyards
->use hand-carryable drills with magnetic clamp bases. They're just
->about liftable, but have to be clamped down in use. They have a rack
->action quill, like a bench drill. I've seen holes a few inches in
->diameter being drilled by these things.
->
->Bosch also make a 1500W _cordless_ demolition hammer that can drill
->16mm in concrete.
->

Well, not electric, but we use hand held air drills to drill up to 3" in
granite :)


->My biggest drill is an ex-army road breaker that drills concrete up to
->a couple of inches diameter. Only problem is that it needs 400V 400Hz
->3 phase AC to operate !  I have to drive it from a converted bus
->alternator and a petrol gen set.

Biggest electric I've seen is a 1" Milwaukee, a local farmer owns it, uses it
to 'crank up' his silo unloaders before filling the silos.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun May  5 13:57:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 06:49:53 -0700
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <31837781.41DE@dmauch.seanet.com>
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Yesterday a guy from Portland Or drove all the way up to Seattle to 
have me set up his Sherline milling Machine. He bought the stepper 
motors and stepper motor mounts from BILLG63745@aol.com and got the 
three axis controller from me. The extrusions that Bill provided we 
beautiful and the installation was quite simple and easy to accomplish.
I added the stepper motor controller and we ran the unit. It ran 
beautifully. This guy had mounted a homemade DRP using digital vernieer 
calibers. It was a joy to setup with the DRO. The bottom line is that I 
was very impressed with the Sherline Mill and with Bill Griffins stepper 
motors and mounts. If you have a Sherline or planning to buy one and you 
want to convert it to CNC drop Bill or me a line. We can help you get up 
and running.


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question about letter stamping
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 09:47:18 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <hNPuoSe.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <4l6826$186f@ns2.ryerson.ca> <4lbtbk$1om4@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Paul Pierce <UTJP04A@prodigy.com>

An "Old Timer" gave me a hint on letter stamping. Place a piece
of masking tape where you want the base of your letters to go,
and butt the bottom edge of the stamp to it before you strike
it with a hammer. This eliminates the up and down location
problems with stamping, and allows you to concentrate on
locating them horizontally!
Paul


From tenter@voicenet.com Sun May  5 13:57:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!news4.agis.net!agis!ns2.mainstreet.net!news.walltech.com!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!goodnews.voicenet.com!usenet
From: tenter@voicenet.com (Tom Enterline)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 11:58:34 GMT
Organization: Voicenet - Internet Access - (215)674-9290
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4lt220$d1f@goodnews.voicenet.com>
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palama@dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama') wrote:

>Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com) wrote:
>: Tig welding to build up the ways...

>: I seriously doubt this would work.  In the first place, you'd
>: be building up with steel (right?), not cast iron.  In the
>: second place you'd be introducing horendous stresses into the
>: bed because of the localized heating, and I strongly suspect
>: the bed would warp on you.  Since we're talking acceptable
>: tolerances here of much less than .001", it wouldn't have to
>: warp much to totally trash it.

>I agree that Tig welding would probably put too much themal stresses in the
>bed so that the bed woul be prone to warping, maybe even some years after
>the reconditioning job is complete.
>However, there are two other metal deposition techniques that could be worth
>trying: 
>- galvanic deposition of nickel or other machinable metal,
>- plasma spraying of an iron based alloy or other metals.
>Does anyone have experience with this techniques to advise us poor 
>reconditioners of _VERY_ worn lathe beds?

>Ciao, Antonio.
I know a guy who worked for a machine reconditioning shop.  Their
technique for building up worn ways was to machine down the ways, then
glue (epoxy, I think) in new steel strips.  Then they ground the ways
true.  I imagine the strips were hardened, don't know the thickness.

Tom Enterline
Metal and stone hobbyist, computer professional
Horsham, PA (near Philadelphia)



From goldstar@1stop.com Sun May  5 13:57:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!cuaa6
From: goldstar@1stop.com (Bob Bickers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sheldon Lathe
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 96 19:04:16 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

A friend of mine just bought a Sheldon 12X36 lathe Ser.#KRTQ2416. Can anyone 
point me in the right direction to obtain an owners/ operator manual. Also 
does Sheldon still exist, who bought them? Any good parts source, not that it 
needs anything as its seen little use. Thanks, Bob.


From az931@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun May  5 13:57:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet-news.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!az931
From: az931@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Elizabeth M. Phillips)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: handmade sterling photo earrings
Date: 27 Apr 1996 12:34:56 GMT
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Lines: 9
Sender: az931@freenet3.carleton.ca (Elizabeth M. Phillips)
Message-ID: <4lt49g$r9f@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
Reply-To: az931@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Elizabeth M. Phillips)
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.carleton.ca

Has anyone ever seen handmade sterling photo earrings, i.e. that you can
put photos in?  If so, where, and what should they cost?  Also, how would
you make those?  They should be very small and light weight, like a charm.

Please reply by e-mail because I don't always get a chance to scan the sig.

Thanks if you have any ideas....




From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.iag.net!news.worldpath.net!news.cic.net!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you calculate the strength of aluminum pipe?
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 10:12:45 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <hRKOosd.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <4lh7tb$ebf@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Alex Burmester <aburmest@ucsd.edu>

Alex Burmester <aburmest@ucsd.edu> writes:
 
>Will someone share the equation for the strength of aluminum tubing?
>
>Specifically, a short tube supported at both ends and loaded in the 
>middle by a rope slung over the tubing.
>
>Factors would be wall thickness, length and diameter.
 
Excerpt fromStructural Aluminum Design by Reynolds Aluminum:
A thube or pipe under external pressure tends to fail in the plastic range or
in the elastic range, depending on the wall/diameter ratio. In the plastic
range the collapsing pressure is the deciding factor.In the elastic range the
collapsing pressure is go
verned by the t/D ratio, the length of the tube and the modulus of elasticity.
In computing the failure of pressure of a tube both must be checked.:
 
[A                            let's try this again....
p=2 x t x f(compressive strength of material in PSI) over Outside Diameter,
where "t"= wall thickness and "p""=collapsing pressure. this calcuates plastic
range
elastic range:
If a certain D/t ratio is exceeded, the tube tends to collapse. if the length
of tube is: L (more than or equal to)2.45D (square root of)d/2t ...in.
 
Critical collapsing pressure:
p=2E/1-m2 (t/D)(to the 3rd)   Where L=length, E=Modulus of elasticity,
m=Poisson's ratio of .33  .
My apologies for the unformed formulae, but it's hard to get the notation
right. There are more if you find that this does not answer your question. An
actual tube size might help! Good Luck!
Paul


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.iag.net!news.worldpath.net!news.cic.net!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gasoline, solvents and TLAs
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 09:50:40 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <ptPvQ4Y.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <1996Apr9.020739.10815@bbxrbk.basis.com> <101260265@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Peter Brooks <brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>

SCORE:
Machinists  1
Technodweebs  0


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.iag.net!news.worldpath.net!news.cic.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ways to protect ways and screws from grit and swarf
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 10:20:19 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <pzDMQwb.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <4lruda$3al@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Wm. Congreve (Sr.) <congreve@ix.netcom.co>

Commercial "Boot" and Cover kits are sold by A & A Manuf. Co.
Inc., 2300 So. Calhoun Road, New Berlin WI, 53151. Tel (414)
786-1500, Fax (414) 786-3280. They sell a variety of vulcanized
rubber and tubular guarding products.
Paul


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:57:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 10:28:14 -0500
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Dennis Wodtli <VBTM10A@prodigy.com> writes:
 
>Seems like some kind of jig to set the tool bit to zero radius would help.
 
You will need to index the pivot point on which the yoke is turning. You
needent worry about the angle upon which this measurement is made. I suggest
somehow "indexing" on a small length of shaft hanging below and above the yoke
in the cutting area, using
a "v" block shaped length of material, with a flat spot of metalin the center
area, milled out to the centerline of the pivot rods. I'll try a drawing....
(  )_______-------_______)<add v block here & other end. Dots in center is
milled area.
 
Using this method, you can use gage blocks to set outsed radii, or rotate it
and use verniers to set inside radii.
Paul


From shockey@primenet.com Sun May  5 13:57:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvils and Other Blacksmithing Tools
Date: 28 Apr 1996 07:28:01 -0700
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In article <4l8f01$p5o@post.gsfc.nasa.gov> "Dr. Mark E. Williams" <williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov> writes:

>If you have access to a web browser, go to the ArtMetal home page and look at
>the suppliers list. There are many places listed that deal in used blacksmith
>tools. The ABANA home page has resources, too. 

>http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/arts/blacksmithing/ABANA

>http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html

[delete]


Dr. Mark,

Please update your URLs. They have a sneaky "edu" directory 
snuggled alongside the domain of the same name!  :-)

http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/blacksmithing/ABANA/

http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html
--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>
"The worse the society, the more law there will be.  In Hell, there will
be nothing but law, and due process will be meticulously observed."
	--Grant Gilmore, Yale Professor of Law


From t.c@admin.umass.edu Sun May  5 13:57:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 29 Apr 1996 01:54:33 GMT
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In article <4ltej2$1ds@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:

> There was an article in HSM, awhile back, about making a forge from a
> domestic oil burner. This intrigued me because it seemed kind of complete
> to start off with, fuel's relatively cheap and easy to come by, and I have
> one sitting in my cellar.
> 
> The one detail missing from the article was the temperature of the oil
> burner flame. This, I assume, is pretty much of a constant given the
> burner type, and size of nozzle.
> If I ever get around to making a forge, I think I'd like the capability to
> melt Iron, so the temperature is important.
> 
> Anyone out there build one of these melters?
> 
> Anyone knowledgeable about home heating oil burners? Mine's a Beckett with
> a 1 gal/hour nozzle. (I believe the nozzles are interchangeable and a
> larger capacity one could be substituted if that's a good thing)
> 
> I did ask the guy who came to clean the system, but he didn't know and
> didn't know anyone back at the shop who did, either. It's hot enough to
> heat the house, what else do you need to know ...
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 

Hi Ed,   I built a small furnace a few years ago,  It will melt 1/2-gal of Alu in 
1/2-hour with 1/2-gal of fuel oil.     And will melt 1/2gal of brass in 1-hour with 
1-gal of fuel oil.  Never did try it with grey cast iron but have read over the years 
that it will do it.     My first meltings, I used my shop vac for the forced air supply 
until I cast a housing and blade, driven by a variable speed electric motor.  



TC
t.c@admin.umass.edu



From PRoyse@InfoAve.Net Sun May  5 13:57:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news1.sunbelt.net!usenet
From: Perry Royse <PRoyse@InfoAve.Net>
Newsgroups: comp.sys.mac.scitech,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.machines.cnc
Subject: Re: Ashlar DrawingBoard: Any Hassles?
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 20:10:29 -0500
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Francis Knight wrote:
> 
> I faxed Ashlar an order for one copy of DrawingBoard, on 10 April. This
> hasn't shown up (normally, I get stuff from the West Coast in well under
> a week.) I've sent emails requesting some status feedback, but these
> haven't been acknowledged. This contrasts with my enquiries prior to
> ordering, which were promptly answered.
> 
> Today, my Bank tells me that my card account has been debited for _two_
> transactions by Ashlar, on 17 and 26 April.
> 
> I'd like to know if anyone else has had similar experience with Ashlar, or
> have I just suffered a glitch?
> 
> Cheers,
> Francis K.

My order took about 10 days to receive. Haven't seen the credit card 
charges yet. Very pleased with the program.

Perry


From wmcj@syix.com Sun May  5 13:57:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill McJunkin <wmcj@syix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Induction heating
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 19:36:41 -0700
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Most induction heating is done at Radio Frequency (RF)levels of ac.... 
Not something to mess about with unless you know the law and the science.
I wish I had something of that nature to play with myself
-- 
Bill


From elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us Sun May  5 13:57:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Eagan L Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Polishing/cleaning Stainless steel
Date: 28 Apr 1996 23:22:31 -0400
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My wife has a Reverware teapot (that has sentimental value).  This has a
polished stainless steel finish on the top and side (copper on the bottom).

After many years of use, it is quite discolored from the heating to
boiling that is typical on an electric range.  She would like some advice
on cleaning it up again, without marring the finish.

Any ideas?

-- 
Eagan

Address(es):    elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us  (preferred) or
                eagan.foster@ccscmh.org


From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: 28 Apr 1996 00:05:59 GMT
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I'm building a radius turning tool for my lathe and would like to know 
how to set the radius of the tool bit.   This tool is a yoke with a 
cresent shaped tool holder that is on a shaft with a handle you turn to 
cut the radius.   It is a copy of the kind advertised in the catalogs for 
about $500.

Seems like some kind of jig to set the tool bit to zero radius would help.
  Then move the tool bit to the radius you want by using the tailstock or 
a lead screw handwheel.  Or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance for any replies.


-
DENNIS WODTLI  VBTM10A@prodigy.com  Portland, OR, USA




From photog@worldnet.att.net Sun May  5 13:57:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Allan Tannenbaum <photog@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Date: 29 Apr 1996 02:37:32 GMT
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Try Classic Iron in Morgantown, WV. Call Gary at 304.292.7052. He ships 
UPS. Thanks.



From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 27 Apr 1996 11:30:42 -0400
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There was an article in HSM, awhile back, about making a forge from a
domestic oil burner. This intrigued me because it seemed kind of complete
to start off with, fuel's relatively cheap and easy to come by, and I have
one sitting in my cellar.

The one detail missing from the article was the temperature of the oil
burner flame. This, I assume, is pretty much of a constant given the
burner type, and size of nozzle.
If I ever get around to making a forge, I think I'd like the capability to
melt Iron, so the temperature is important.

Anyone out there build one of these melters?

Anyone knowledgeable about home heating oil burners? Mine's a Beckett with
a 1 gal/hour nozzle. (I believe the nozzles are interchangeable and a
larger capacity one could be substituted if that's a good thing)

I did ask the guy who came to clean the system, but he didn't know and
didn't know anyone back at the shop who did, either. It's hot enough to
heat the house, what else do you need to know ...

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: 27 Apr 1996 11:30:47 -0400
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In article <berry-2604961055130001@netnews.upenn.edu>,
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:

>If anyone is interested, I have a pretty good description of the
mirroring
>process I could post.

Yes, please.





From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Sun May  5 13:57:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
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edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:
>There was an article in HSM, awhile back, about making a forge from a
>domestic oil burner. This intrigued me because it seemed kind of complete
>to start off with, fuel's relatively cheap and easy to come by, and I have
>one sitting in my cellar.
>
>Ed Kingsley
>

Ed --

This 'might' be the article you are referring to:

        "An Assist from the Forge"
        HANCOCK, CLIFFORD
        HSM 88 J/A 50 (July/August 1988 issue of Home Shop Machinist???)

I got this citation from the index to "Home Shop Machinist" and "Projects in Metal" 
magazines that is at:

        ftp://plains.uwyo.edu/metal/hsmpimix.txt

The index covers covers 1982-1994.  

Give a look -- you might find it helpful. Enjoy!

                        Frank




From steamer@west.net Sun May  5 13:57:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY THE SAME ONE?
Date: 26 Apr 1996 08:41:33 -0700
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: Is the Harbor Freight lathe really
: poor quality, or is Enco's price too high?
	Yes.
	Bite the bullet, get a Myford: it will last a lifetime and you 
will have no regrets. Either that or look for a use South Bend or 
Clausing/Atlas...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Last Law of Product Design:
	COMING SOON		:	If you can't fix it, feature it.
	http://www.west.net~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Band Saw Blades
Date: 27 Apr 1996 11:30:54 -0400
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I have been unable to find a supplier of welded-to-size bandsaw blades for
a 15" Delta Metal Cutting Bandsaw (93 1/2")  - specifically in the
configuration:

         3/4" wide, and 6-10 TPI (variable tooth).

Plenty of 100' coils, but no single, sized blade in that size.
Any ideas? I've looked at a lot of catalogues.

A question - Is there any problem with using a positive tooth rake, with
Aluminum?
No rake is usually recommended for AL, while positive rake seems to be
associated with hard-to-machine materials like hard steels and alloys
which, presumably may workharden if the cutting is not aggressive enough.

I cut a fair bit of Acrylic, too, and I think maybe a positive rake would
*not* be a good idea there. (?)

------------------
Ed Kingsley





From chuckh@NetHeaven.com Sun May  5 13:57:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chuckh@netheaven.com (Chuck Holcomb)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 02:15:27 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.dolls:13382 rec.collecting.phonecards:4535 rec.collecting.postal-history:863 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:91506 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:59871 rec.collecting.sport.football:79295 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:45886 rec.collecting.sport.misc:6546 rec.collecting.stamps:27583 rec.collecting.villages:2776 rec.crafts.beads:7025 rec.crafts.brewing:87674 rec.crafts.dollhouses:1222 rec.crafts.glass:2044 rec.crafts.jewelry:11589 rec.crafts.marketplace:6913 rec.crafts.metalworking:27522 rec.crafts.misc:20670 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:5374 rec.crafts.pottery:1751

Hey Jay@ami.net, or whatever your *real" name is,...since you don't
have the 'nads to send e-mail to me with a *real* return
address....byte me!
-
Chuck Holcomb
chuckh@netheaven.com
++

A termite walks into a bar, and says, "Bartender?"

++



From nhayes4793@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: nhayes4793@aol.com (NHayes4793)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Best price on sherline in south Cal.
Date: 29 Apr 1996 00:54:17 -0400
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Well, my wife has finally caved in and decided it's easier to let me buy a
sherline lathe than listen to me dream about it.  So if things go well
I'll be buying one in the next couple of weeks.

I have contacted sherline for the price, and even though I live only an
hour or so from their plant it's cheaper for me to buy it from Blue Ridge
Machinery on the east coast.

I can understand that sherline doesn't want to undercut their
distributors, so now I'm hoping to find one with good pricing somewhere in
southern California.

Does anyone know of a distributor in the L.A area with good pricing.

Thanks for any help



From t.c@admin.umass.edu Sun May  5 13:57:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!caen!news.umass.edu!nic.umass.edu!usenet
From: t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What Books on C & I beam structural strength ???????
Date: 29 Apr 1996 02:10:58 GMT
Organization: Transit Services UMass
Lines: 6
Distribution: world
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X-Newsreader: News for Windows NT X1.0-89

Can anyone recommend a book or data info site ?
Thanks !

TC
t.c@admin.umass.edu



From kryan@infoave.net Sun May  5 13:57:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kryan@infoave.net (kevin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Art and Crafts SEARCH SITE update
Date: 27 Apr 1996 15:54:16 GMT
Organization: SunBelt.Net INTERNET Access
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.beads:7026 rec.crafts.jewelry:11593 rec.crafts.marketplace:6916 rec.crafts.metalworking:27525 rec.crafts.misc:20672 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:3845 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:58856 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:5379 rec.crafts.glass:2047 rec.crafts.pottery:1752

New ART and Crafts - - Search Site

Update 


New way to search for Art and Crafts on the internet. We have developed a very 
accurate search engine, and will be adding new catagories with the demand.
We plan to open officially on or about 5/1/96. We are waiting for our DNS 
entry,(it's taking longer than we thought) before opening offically. The site 
is up and running now, and we are accepting URL's.
	In order to keep the search as accurate as possible for the user, we 
accept a URL only once, for each approiate catagory! 

	As far as we know we are the only Art and Crafts specific search site 
on the internet, and expect to become popular very quickly.
	If you have a site you would like to add, or just want to check us out 
go to:      http://www.ro.com/artsearch  (temporary address)

Please Email us with your comments, we would like to here from you.

Kevin


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ways to protect ways and screws from grit and swarf
Date: 29 Apr 1996 04:23:13 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 23
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Wm. Congreve (Sr.) (congreve@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: In the "horiz. mill as surface grinder" thread the suggestion came up
: of using towelling to protect the machine.  I've always been scared of
: cloth rags in the shop wherever they could get caught in a spinning
: spindle or screw, and have used kitchen aluminum foil instead.  It
: doesn't have the virtue of the stuff clinging to it, but on the other
: hand no harm is done if it snags, and it is very easy to shape around
: whatever you're trying to protect from grit and swarf.

I got the Enco 'Milling Machine Way Cover' and am very satisfied with it.
The X axis table feed is pretty well covered by the table, so there is
no need to worry about that.  The Y axis is exposed front and back, and
the vertical slide for the knee is exposed mostly above the knee.  They
provide a wide rubber belt that hangs from just below the turret, and
attaches to the back of the saddle.  There is an accordion-pleated piece
that goes on the front of the saddle, and attaches just above the Y axis
handle.  It really keeps the ways clean!  I got it to keep flood coolant
out of the machine, but it works fine for keeping grinding dust out of the
ways, too.  I have been sharpening end mills with a cup wheel in the mill
spindle.

					Jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:57:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any Jet 9" BeltDrive Lathe Opinions?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 04:39:24 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 39
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Walter Black (wblack@mail.fgi.net) wrote:
<snip>
: Doug Harrison on the Live Steaming website seems to think that new
: Taiwanese or even Chinese metal lathes are better than used South Bend
: lathes.  He says "An old South Bend or LeBlond will cost more than a new
: Enco and they will be worn out"!  I thought that they have gibs that can
: be tightened, ways can be scraped or ground and bearings can be replaced.
: Or do lathes use non-standard bearings that can't be purchased from
: anyone but the lathe manufacturer?

I just called the nearest bearing house in St. Louis and asked for the
spindle bearings in my Atlas 10" lathe by Timken part number.  They didn't
even blink, and said that they "didn't have this size in stock, but could
have it for me tomorrow".  I was a little surprised, since these are REALLY
old bearings.  They seem to have the lathe serial number scribed on them,
so they must be original.  I didn't know that these had two part numbers
for the complete bearing, and so I think I just ordered the inner races with
the roller cage.  I will have to call them tomorrow and order the outer
race.  But the nose bearing was $15 and the rear bearing (smaller) was $10.
I thought that was quite reasonable!  I assume the outer races will add
something like $10 each to the price for the complete bearing set.

Some used lathes really ARE worn out, and in need of very substantial
maintenance.  It is definitely buyer beware!  But I have had SO MANY people
tell me that the old lathes were so much better built, that I think it must
be true.  I have used some old South Bends, and they did have a very solid
feel, and could cut smoothly and without vibration.  Certainly, some of the
real beauties of the WW-II era, Monarch and large South Bends are really
wonderful lathes.  My 10" Atlas certainly doesn't compare to a lathe like
that.  Most of the economy import lathes are built to a very light standard,
and are prone to some inaccuracies and vibrations, due to their lack of
stiffness.

So, if you find one of the well-built old lathes in good condition, it may
be a real bargain.  If, however, you get an old machine with severe wear,
then it can be a very expensive proposition to rebuild.  If you want a
'project' for your home shop, however, you may be able to pick up a worn
out lathe cheaply enough to make it very worthwhile.  But a professional
machinist doesn't want to spend 6 months rebuilding his machine.


From gary@cdsnet.net Sun May  5 13:57:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.cdsnet.net!usenet
From: gary@cdsnet.net (Gary Ingram)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lincoln Weld-pak 100, good or crap?
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 15:50:33 GMT
Organization: CDS Internet, Medford Oregon
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Message-ID: <4ltfo2$cge@news.cdsnet.net>
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Felice, I have a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 Plus and find that it is a fine
machine. I purchased it for light work (up to 16 ga. .060"). I have a
cracker box for anything thicker. The 100 is rated at 12ga. .105" for
one pass and up to 1/4" with multiple passes. For light work I find a
wire welder is better for me. I don't burn so many holes in the work .
Good Luck,  Gary

felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) wrote:

>I've been thinking of getting a lincoln weld pak 100. Is it a piece of crap, 
>or does it work well? Anyone have one and like it? Should I just get a cheap 
>arc welder instead?




From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:57:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FAQ's.  Where???
Message-ID: <1996Apr28.223614.22902@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 28 Apr 96 22:36:14 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4ls81t$s1c@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, XRKF89A@prodigy.com (Richard Hyde) writes:
|>I recall a group of FAQ's posted awhile back, one which contained an 
|>extensive listing of suppliers for metalworking parts and materials.  
|>Where can I find these FAQ's?  Is it archived anywhere.  If so, how do I 
|>get to it?

Anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal directory.  See also
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From blackdog@speakeasy.org Sun May  5 13:57:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blackdog@speakeasy.org (David White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Date: 27 Apr 1996 22:15:58 GMT
Organization: Speakeasy Cafe
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Need a source for Whitworth and British Standard taps, dies
and fasteners.  I've seen some ads in clasic motorcycle mags for fasteners
but there all in England and don't advertize tools.  Any ideas?



David White
Blackdog@speakeasy.org




From michael_moore@usa.pipeline.com Sun May  5 13:57:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.asu.edu!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: michael_moore@usa.pipeline.com(Michael A. Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tig Welder
Date: 27 Apr 1996 23:45:49 GMT
Organization: Pipeline USA
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I bought a Miller Gold Seal (an older  300 amp big blue TIG welder) from a
guy who bought several of them when Lockheed was closing down in the SF Bay
area.  I think after he made his profit I paid about $1200.  This included
the water pump and foot control.  You may not have all the latest trick
square wave etc, but there older machines out there at good prices that are
more than adequate for the home shop.   
 
With an 80 amp incoming circuit, I can weld on an aluminum cylinder head
(lots of heat) for about 20-30 minutes before the circuit breaker gets too
hot and trips.  It was less time, but I hooked up a little muffin fan to
blow air through the circuit breaker box, which extended the welding time
noticeably.  Now I just stop after about 20 minutes and go out for a breath
of fresh air to give the breaker time to cool.  I can weld as long as I can
stand it on steel, since it takes so much less power.   
 
Don't forget, that if you can throw the item in the oven and get it really
hot first, you'll need to put in less heat from the welder.  I use argon,
but a friend told me that if you use helium it "supercharges" the welding
process, I guess by keeping more heat in the welded part, so you don't have
to add as much from the torch. 
 
My motto is: always buy the maximum machine you can afford, as it delays
the day when something is to big to fit. 
 
Michael Moore 
SF, CA 
 
>"Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca> wrote: 
> 
>>Just wondering if anyone has any comments or experience with the MILLER 
>>ECONOTIG welder. I have been hobby welding for a couple of years with a  
>>MILLERMATIC 130 mig welder, and was thinking about adding a tig welder 
>>to the fun. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. 



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: 29 Apr 1996 04:22:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4m1g5o$aac@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Apr 28 11:22:16 PM CDT 1996

In <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca> John Bryant <bryant@sce.carleton.ca>
writes: 
>
>The 6" four-jaw chuck on my Standard Modern lathe is far too clumsy
for
>fine work, and for some time now I've been considering obtaining a
>smaller four-jaw chuck for gripping smaller parts.  Now I've seen what
>appears to be the answer - KBC is advertising a 3" four-jaw chuck (by
>Sherline) directly mounted on a Morse 4 taper (which matches my
>spindle).  Also it's currently on special at 10% off.  I'm a bit
>reluctant, however, to splash out $220 on a part that I've never seen
>and which may not turn out to be a good idea.
>
>Could anybody comment on the part itself (quality?) and whether using
>a taper mounted chuck is or is not a very good idea?  As an
alternative
>
>           Thanks - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)

John:

The Chuck that you are describing will knowck your eyes out when you
get it. The quality that Joe Martin ( The president of SHERLINE ) puts
into his tools is very impressive. It's no secret here that I am a
SHERLINE supporter ( so much so , that we recently became SHERLINE
dealers). I think that if you buy the chuck, you'll not let anyone pry
it from your hands!
By the way, and not to make this into a commercial, but if you send me
the part number that you are looking at ( remember, we're NEW SHERLINE
dealers!) I'll see if I can do better on the price for you ( That goes
for anyone else reading this group as well.)

Good luck on your project.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:57:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades
Date: 27 Apr 1996 13:43:11 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4lu0sv$ssp@crl2.crl.com>
References: <4leaim$q9a@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl2.crl.com

In article <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Edk4 <edk4@aol.com> wrote:
>I have been unable to find a supplier of welded-to-size bandsaw blades for
>a 15" Delta Metal Cutting Bandsaw (93 1/2")  - specifically in the
>configuration:
>
>         3/4" wide, and 6-10 TPI (variable tooth).
>
>Plenty of 100' coils, but no single, sized blade in that size.
>Any ideas? I've looked at a lot of catalogues.

The last batch of metal bandsaw blades I bought were ordered from Travers 
Tool (in the FAQ).  They had someone who would weld these to any length 
so long as the blade material was available.  I think there was a 10 
minimum per size at the time, which was no problem since they were 
cheaper than the common size I had available at my local tool store.

JerryK



>Ed Kingsley
>
>
>




From mheat@hookup.net Sun May  5 13:57:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mheat@hookup.net (Norbert Senf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repair crack in cast exhaust elbo ( MARINE) ?
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 19:31:12 GMT
Organization: Masonry Stove Builders
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <3180ecba.19781695@nnrp.ott.hookup.net>
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On Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:00:09 GMT, jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
wrote:

>reelcolors@aol.com (REELCOLORS) wrote:
>
>>You're correct, I'm wrong. Its the large cast elbo thats part of the
>>cooling system.
>>It leaks water.
>
>> It never gets hot enough to burn you. And since the cooling system is a
>>open system with no preshure I thought some epoxy would do the trick.
>
>> 
>
>>                                                   Thanks  
>
>>                                                     
>>Tom..................
>
>I have wekded several wet exhaust manifolds over the years with
>varying success. 
>
>The other posts are pretty accurate. Try heating the elbow in a bath
>of hot sand, 350-400 F. Use nickle rod.  Peen often. Cool very slow.
>
>Also Brazing has worked.
>
>The problem comes because the inner pipe restrains the weld from
>shrinking, thus causing cracks.
>
>Good luck, you'll need it.
>
I prefer GE silicone rubber(clear, smells like vinegar, available at
Costco) for those tricky situations where nothing else works. Its
advertised as good to 400F but is in fact good to 600F. Silicone isn't
crazy about petroleum solvents, but nothing else seems to bother it.
It remains permanently flexible. When I had to glue some epoxy
castings to an aluminum pattern, I tried everthing, and silicone was
the only thing that worked. The space shuttle has its tiles glued on
with it.
========================================================
Norbert Senf			email 	mheat@hookup.net
Masonry Stove Builders		fax 	819 647 6082
RR 5 Shawville Québec J0X 2Y0	voice 	819 647 5092
========================================================
>>> VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE AT http://mha-net.org/msb  <<<

========================================================


From rjm1060@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rjm1060@aol.com (RJM1060)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: THE GUILD - website
Date: 27 Apr 1996 19:20:36 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: rjm1060@aol.com (RJM1060)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Try THE GUILD's new website.  THE GUILD is a publisher of fine craft
sourcebooks, which include architectural metal, furniture, art for the
wall, accessories, and jewelry to the design profession.

http://www.guild.com


From wblack@mail.fgi.net Sun May  5 13:57:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.fgi.net!news
From: wblack@mail.fgi.net (Walter Black)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Any Jet 9" BeltDrive Lathe Opinions?
Date: 27 Apr 1996 22:28:11 GMT
Organization: FGInet
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Message-ID: <4lu71r$6ua@grail.fgi.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nb208.fgi.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.1

Does anyone on the group have any experience with the 9" Belt Drive Lathe
>from  Jet.  Are they still made in Taiwan or have they switched to China
like Grizzly?

I lokked at Jet woodworking tools today at a dealer near my house.  The
Jet woodworking tools seem to be well made, not junk like a lots of the
stuff I have seen from Taiwan.

Doug Harrison on the Live Steaming website seems to think that new
Taiwanese or even Chinese metal lathes are better than used South Bend
lathes.  He says "An old South Bend or LeBlond will cost more than a new
Enco and they will be worn out"!  I thought that they have gibs that can
be tightened, ways can be scraped or ground and bearings can be replaced.
Or do lathes use non-standard bearings that can't be purchased from
anyone but the lathe manufacturer?

Walt Black
wblack@mail.fgi.net



From bobp@halcyon.com Sun May  5 13:57:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bobp@halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: elec. wiring f/welder
Date: 27 Apr 1996 23:07:45 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 79
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The comment about requiring a 4-wire plug for 120-240V devices is correct,
but does not apply to welders.  Welders are 240V only and do not require
a neutral connection because they draw no current between hot and ground/
neutral.

The reason ranges and dryers have a different 3-prong plug for the same 
apparent voltage and current as welders is because they are 120-240V
devices and the welders are not.  The range/dryer plugs have a beefier
ground prong because it is actually carrying current, whereas the welder
plug is just a normal roung ground prong not a wide flat blade.  Seems to 
make sense.  

(With dryers, typically the only component that actually uses the 240V
is the heating element; the timers, maybe even the motor are 120V.  Likewise
with ranges the lights (ever see a 240V lightbulb?) and fans, at least,
are 120V.  With 240V welders everything runs off transformers that have 
240V primaries.)

There's no functional reason you couldn't use the cheaper plug and outlet
for the welder, but it would not meet code.  I suppose the outlet itself 
would meet code if it had the appropriate size current-carrying ground/neutral.



In article <4lmobp$26ko@news.doit.wisc.edu>, abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu says...
>
>In article <DqBy6B.xM@iglou.com>, rooster@iglou.iglou.com says...
>
>Rooster:
>
>I usually tap my brother-in-law electrician/electrical inspector for answers 
>to questions like this.  The following are his comments mixed with some of 
>mine:
>
>First of all, your welder may be unsafe for a number of reasons, but it 
>certainly won't be safe unless the frame or cabinet is adequately grounded.
>
>The National Electrical Code for most connections to a branch circuit requires 
>that the neutral and equipment ground wires be kept separate and carried as 
>separate wires back to the circuit breaker box where they then are connected 
>together.  Until January 1996 the code contained an exception (sec 250-60) for 
>120-240 volt, 3-wire branch circuits for electric ranges and electric clothes 
>dryers that allowed the neutral to be used for both neutral and frame ground 
>provided the grounded circuit conductor was not smaller than No.10 AWG.  The 
>NEMA 6-50 plug is a 4-wire, 50 amp plug that uses a separate connector for the 
>equipment ground, and, if my memory is correct, the 10-50 plug is a 3-wire, 50 
>amp plug that uses the white, neutral, conductor for both equipment ground and 
>the neutral conductor.  Since both plugs are rated at 50 amps, 240 volts, the 
>current rating is not a problem.  However, since the code only granted the 
>single wire exception for neutral and frame ground to ranges and dryers and 
>not welders, your use of a "range" outlet for your welder, strictly speaking, 
>would not meet the requirements of the code.
>
>Since January 1996 the National code has deleted the exception for ranges and 
>dryers and now at the national level requires separate ground and neutral 
>wires to be brought back to the circuit breaker box, i.e. a 6-50 plug with 
>four separate wires.  Since this is in a state of transition, the code 
>authorities in your location may or may not have changed to the new rules.
>
>Regards, Burr
>
>>My arc welder has a NEMA 6-50 plug, and uses (of course) the
>>corresponding receptacle.  The plug is about $13, the recept. about $10.
>>An electric range usually uses a 10-50 plug and recept., and these cost
>>about 1/3 of the 6-50's.
>>
>>Can I refit 10-50's to my stuff safely?  I'm never going to plug a range
>>into the arc welder outlets, not unless my wife puts a wheel kit on the
>>Amana.
>>
>>Thanks for any info.
>>---
>> þ OLX 2.1 TD þ my other car is a Deutz Allis 9190
>>                                                   
>>-- 
>>rooster
>>
>



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:57:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dacom.co.kr!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 01:03:36 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 23
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The moving finger of jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci) having written:

>What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made.

Depends what you mean by "hand". Steel framed buildings and shipyards
use hand-carryable drills with magnetic clamp bases. They're just
about liftable, but have to be clamped down in use. They have a rack
action quill, like a bench drill. I've seen holes a few inches in
diameter being drilled by these things.

Bosch also make a 1500W _cordless_ demolition hammer that can drill
16mm in concrete.

My biggest drill is an ex-army road breaker that drills concrete up to
a couple of inches diameter. Only problem is that it needs 400V 400Hz
3 phase AC to operate !  I have to drive it from a converted bus
alternator and a petrol gen set.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

"Cut the second act and the child's throat"
  - Noel Coward, on seeing the young Bonnie Langford on stage


From jhko@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.asu.edu!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 27 Apr 1996 21:29:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I've bought from Enco. Definitely cheap, low quality shop. I avoid them
now, the products are just not worth the hassles over the quality. I
prefer MSC or Rutland Tool. I've had good luck with the goods from both
those places. 

By the way, I have a Enco-Mayer (different company, the guys in Austria)
8" lathe and it has been great. More expensive, but not terribly pricey.
The quality is excellent- really, really good. This company is  worth
considering also.

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:57:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Line <marc@bosagate.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silver plating
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 07:32:56 +0100
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Hi all.

It seems that this thread is just about exhausted now so I'd like to say
a big thank you to all those who have offered their valuable advice and
knowledge.

I am impressed by the vivacity of this newsgroup which functions as a
newsgroup should, unlike some of the others to which I subscribe.

Thanks to you all and apologies to those to whom this does not apply.

Best regards

-- 
Marc Line


From rkiesl@cruzio.com Sun May  5 13:57:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rkiesl@cruzio.com
Subject: Re: question about letter stamping
Reply-To: rkiesl@cruzio.com
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 18:37:05 GMT
Message-ID: <DqL51t.MJx@cruzio.com>
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Sender: rkiesl@cruzio.com (Roy Kiesling)
Lines: 15


I also use the masking tape to align the bottom edge.
Another hint I got from an "Old Timer" is to stamp
the word in reverse order--from right to left, and
that seems to work for me. 

Maybe because you are not "spelling ahead" in your mind,
and concentrate harder on each letter, one at a time.
(Better have the word written out on a scrap of paper to
look at, though...)

-- 
Roy Kiesling         Wissen gleich Macht!       408-688-1569
502 Woodhaven Court                     KE6CRJ on 146.790-
APTOS CA 95003-5522                     rkiesl@cruzio.com


From klaas@uniface.nl Sun May  5 13:57:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!knoware.nl!usenet
From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 11:59:44 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:6418 rec.crafts.metalworking:27542 rec.crafts.jewelry:11602

As a hobby silversmith I have strong problems with the polishing of sterling
silver. This is due to the reddish firescale which is hard to remove.
So the alternative is another alloy. Pure silver is no option as it is too
soft.
Looking in the Degussa "Handbuch der Edelmetalle" (1967) (in German) I saw some
phase diagrams of which Ag-Si was the best (99% Ag, 1% Si) I made a sample
(pure Si alloy grade (99%) is hard to obtain) which turned out to be good:
easy to roll, etc. But the Si is hard to obtain.
Are there other elements suitable for alloying with silver ?
Tin is no option as it does not harden it. Zinc makes it too brittle and
oxidizes too easy.

Can somebody help me ?

Klaas



From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com!usenet
From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:00:25 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 36
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Hi. I have both a shaper (7" SouthBend) and a toolpost
grinder (Dumore 1/4hp).

The Dumore book (more marketing lit than anything) from
the 1940's/50's, shows their toolpost grinders being hung
>from  almost anything, including shapers. But note the
scale! The grinder they discussed was a 1/2hp model (model
5 I think) and the shaper clapper box was just about 1/2
the size of the motor! So we're talking serious shapers
here, like the big Cincinatti's. Several tons of shaper :-)

I thought for about 5 minutes of mounting the Dumore on
the shaper. It won't work. Too heavy. Even if you removed
the clapper box and mounted it directly to the ram vertical
slide it would be too heavy. Way too heavy.

Also note that the table (at least on mine, perhaps not
yours?) has no "scale" for the z axis so you would have
to use the vertical slide on the ram to adjust the thing.
And I don't think there's enough precision in it, again
given the weight of the Dumore, for it to work.

Finally, you'd HAVE to set the wheel such that it threw
the crap straight back at the operator! Otherwise it would
toss it all right into the machine. So you'd have to carefully
aim the shaper such that it would be a pain in the ass to
use it for anything other than grinding. If this makes 
sense.

Now, hanging the Dumore on a milling machine? Ah, I think
THAT might work fine!

My .02

/Charlie



From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!imci3!imci2!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com!usenet
From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:00:24 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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Hi. I have both a shaper (7" SouthBend) and a toolpost
grinder (Dumore 1/4hp).

The Dumore book (more marketing lit than anything) from
the 1940's/50's, shows their toolpost grinders being hung
>from  almost anything, including shapers. But note the
scale! The grinder they discussed was a 1/2hp model (model
5 I think) and the shaper clapper box was just about 1/2
the size of the motor! So we're talking serious shapers
here, like the big Cincinatti's. Several tons of shaper :-)

I thought for about 5 minutes of mounting the Dumore on
the shaper. It won't work. Too heavy. Even if you removed
the clapper box and mounted it directly to the ram vertical
slide it would be too heavy. Way too heavy.

Also note that the table (at least on mine, perhaps not
yours?) has no "scale" for the z axis so you would have
to use the vertical slide on the ram to adjust the thing.
And I don't think there's enough precision in it, again
given the weight of the Dumore, for it to work.

Finally, you'd HAVE to set the wheel such that it threw
the crap straight back at the operator! Otherwise it would
toss it all right into the machine. So you'd have to carefully
aim the shaper such that it would be a pain in the ass to
use it for anything other than grinding. If this makes 
sense.

Now, hanging the Dumore on a milling machine? Ah, I think
THAT might work fine!

My .02

/Charlie



From Postmaster@pjbma2.syntex.com Sun May  5 13:57:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Postmaster@pjbma2.syntex.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: backyard welding??
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 13:26:56 PDT
Organization: F. Hoffmann-La Roche
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In Article<postar-2404961101260001@philly214.voicenet.com>, 
<postar@voicenet.com> write:
> Path: 
rosebud.syntex.com!nntp-hub.barrnet.net!inet-nntp-gw-1.us.oracle.com!imci4!news
feed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.up
enn.edu!news.voicenet.com!goodnews.voicenet.com!philly214.voicenet.com!user
> From: postar@voicenet.com (Edward French)
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: backyard welding??
> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:01:26 -0500

> hello, this humble knownothin asks this question: can i use a welder (what
> type?) to weld together auto engine parts (cranks, axles...) in my
> backyard. this thing will be kept outside through extreme
> weather...?...thanks
> 

I doubt it.  You will need more controlled conditions to reliably weld thick, 
precise items like that.



From abburns@ingr.com Sun May  5 13:57:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ingr.com!b30news.b30.ingr.com!usenet
From: abburns@ingr.com (Ashley Burns)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: welding electrical conduit?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:29:23 GMT
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
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A project I am doing needs some round tubing. Electrical conduit is very 
cheap compared to other round tubing.  Can the conduit be welded? I think 
the conduit is galvanized.

Thanks..

Ashley Burns
abburns@ingr.com



From kish@browncow.com Sun May  5 13:57:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!netaxs.com!mhv.net!usenet
From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:44:35 GMT
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4m2djj$2g9@news.mhv.net>
References: <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com> <rgrauman.31.00707E14@compusmart.ab.ca>
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rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman) wrote:
>...My friend Bob the welder is welding up the frames for two, 
>(one for me, one for him) and I am machining the wheels.  
>...

 I recently had the opportunity to try out several types of wheeling
machines, both homemade and commercially manufactured. In both cases,
the best operation was obtained from machines with *really* rigid frames. 
One design that I saw repeated several times was to construct the frame
out of box section steel with braces, and then sheathe both sides of 
the frame in 1/4" steel plate cut to a "C" shape. Polish the wheels 
to a mirror shine! Are you putting the adjusting wheel on the top 
or bottom? I found a bottom (foot operated) adjustment much easier to use.


			-BK



From kish@browncow.com Sun May  5 13:57:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!netaxs.com!mhv.net!usenet
From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Low cost metal prep??
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:58:46 GMT
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m2ee6$2g9@news.mhv.net>
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I just came back from the paint store having spent $30 for two pints 
of DuPont 244S alcohol based metal prep. This stuff is nice because it 
can be sprayed on and left to evaporate without rinsing, so there is less 
chance that my newly de-rusted steel will need to be de-rusted again.

 I'm pretty certain that the chemicals in this plastic bottle should cost less 
then $15/pint if purchased seperately and mixed in the shop. I believe that 
coating left on the surface of the steel is zinc (?) phosphate, it has a bluish
tinge. My first guess for ingredients would include Isoprophyl alchohol, phosphoric
acid, some zinc compound...

 Has anyone duplicated this stuff? Any thoughts, recipies, etc?


			Thanks,

			  -BK



From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Sun May  5 13:57:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!vanbc!mfraser
From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: 29 Apr 1996 13:40:41 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <4m2gsp$6of@wolfe.wimsey.com>
References: <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca> <4m1g5o$aac@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

and I've seen them being made at the factory.  I agree, impressive!
/mark


J.A.Harvey (jhre@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: In <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca> John Bryant <bryant@sce.carleton.ca>
: writes: 
: >
: >The 6" four-jaw chuck on my Standard Modern lathe is far too clumsy
: for
: >fine work, and for some time now I've been considering obtaining a
: >smaller four-jaw chuck for gripping smaller parts.  Now I've seen what
: >appears to be the answer - KBC is advertising a 3" four-jaw chuck (by
: >Sherline) directly mounted on a Morse 4 taper (which matches my
: >spindle).  Also it's currently on special at 10% off.  I'm a bit
: >reluctant, however, to splash out $220 on a part that I've never seen
: >and which may not turn out to be a good idea.
: >
: >Could anybody comment on the part itself (quality?) and whether using
: >a taper mounted chuck is or is not a very good idea?  As an
: alternative
: >
: >           Thanks - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)

: John:

: The Chuck that you are describing will knowck your eyes out when you
: get it. The quality that Joe Martin ( The president of SHERLINE ) puts
: into his tools is very impressive. It's no secret here that I am a
: SHERLINE supporter ( so much so , that we recently became SHERLINE
: dealers). I think that if you buy the chuck, you'll not let anyone pry
: it from your hands!
: By the way, and not to make this into a commercial, but if you send me
: the part number that you are looking at ( remember, we're NEW SHERLINE
: dealers!) I'll see if I can do better on the price for you ( That goes
: for anyone else reading this group as well.)

: Good luck on your project.

: Jim Harvey
: jim@hre.com
: http://hre.com/


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:57:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 29 Apr 1996 17:01:55 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4m2sm3$go0@news1.svc>
References: <4lp118$8a@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <4lsbia$o2j@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4m2mhq$ifp@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Or you could purchase a quick-change tool holder
that would take care of all the problems in one
swell foop.

Only costs money.

M-heads are pretty good machines.  

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca Sun May  5 13:57:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca (Tim Nye)
Subject: Re: What Books on C & I beam structural strength ???????
Sender: news@novice.uwaterloo.ca (Mr. News)
Message-ID: <TJNYE.1622.3184C798@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 13:43:52 GMT
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Organization: University of Waterloo

In article <4m18fi$56e@nic.umass.edu> t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron) writes:

>Can anyone recommend a book or data info site ?

If what you're doing is not too complex, Machinery's Handbook is a good 
bet.  It contains tables of section properties for various structural shapes 
as well as formulas for stress and deflection for a number of beam loadings.

Good luck,

Tim



From randy@pulsar2.rdrc.rpi.edu Sun May  5 13:57:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randy@pulsar2.rdrc.rpi.edu (Randall Bradley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electrolytic Derusting?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:09:33 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY, USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m2pju$ae7@usenet.rpi.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: pulsar2.rdrc.rpi.edu

I'd make some phone calls before I dunked any coins in anything.

Try some museums, the Met in NYC, the Smithsonian in DC, or some
more local. Top line coin dealers will know the ins and out's too
(probably). I'd get several opinions from folks who have worked
with Roman coins in SPECIFIC, find some agreement, and then proceed
with a less valuable piece(s) first. Or, perhaps they'll even
do the job for you!


			_-_randy_-_

			BEAR Labs

			randy@rdrc.rpi.edu


"We make high-end audio stuff called BEAR, we don't test bears!"


From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator repair
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:40:37 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4m32f5$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <Pine.A32.3.93.960423111717.27216B-100000@blkdia> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960425143553.22484O-100000@reliant> <blake-2604960100220001@206.84.2.78>
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>I do try to stay away from this Jap stuff because of this kind of thing. 
>Why don't they just make it adjustable to begin with?  I guess some of the
>Fords are guilty of this kind of stuff too.
>Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<

Well, all "Jap stuff" is not created equal.  I've got a 12-year-old Toyota
4x4 pickup truck that has a pretty low-tech simple engine, all things 
considered.  It's been extremely reliable, and parts aren't that expensive.
Even the newer Toyota truck engines aren't too bad in that respect.

If I remember correctly, the MR-2 is a fairly sporty offering from Toyota.
One pays...and pays for stuff like that, no matter who makes it.




From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:43:30 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Your tool grinding technique (flat table, so the top of the toolbit
is some defined distance above the wheel centerline) is straight
out "The Design and Use of Cutting Tools," by Leo J. St.Clair.  It
works extremely well, as you've found.  Prof. Dennis Chaddock also
talks about it with regard to the Quorn, as I recall.




From rutherfordv@admin.gmcc.ab.ca Sun May  5 13:57:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Valerie Rutherford <rutherfordv@admin.gmcc.ab.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Arbors/mandrels
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 12:52:38 -0700
Organization: Grant MacEwan Community College
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I have been searching suppliers/manufacturers looking for the following, 
and have been unable to come up with anyone but resellers. If any one 
might no where to source these it would sure help me out:

Wanted mandrels to mount buffs on the end of an electric motor. Specs are 
one end with either a 5/8 or 1/2 in female hole/ the other with 1/2" 
thread either left or right hand. Sometimes referred to as a stub mandrel 
. 

Thanks


From lj95315@butch.lmsc Sun May  5 13:57:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lj95315@butch.lmsc (Glenn R. Decastro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q:Helium Gas for MIg Welding?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:03:03 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Martin M & S, Sunnyvale, CA
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Is it there a benefit using helium gas versus Argon-CO2?  Can the 
Argon-CO2 regulator be used for the substitution?
What metal used this be used for?

Thanks,
Glenn R. deCastro
decastro@lims.lockheed.com



From nimud@lasvegas-nexus.com Sun May  5 13:57:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nimud@lasvegas-nexus.com (Harris Lowenhaupt)
Newsgroups: alt.mining.recreational,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RFD: sci.engr.metallurgy.extractive
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:38:37 GMT
Organization: Cast Earth; Nickel Laterites
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <nimud-2904960938530001@d13.lasvegas-nexus.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.233.156.13
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:11608 rec.crafts.metalworking:27557

An RFD has been posted proposing the reorganization of existing
sci.engr.metallurgy into two groups; sci.engr.metallurgy.extractive and
sci.engr.metallurgy.physical.

It has been cross posted to:

news.announce.newgroups, news.groups
sci.engr.metallurgy, sci.engr.chem, sci.chem

The extractive aspect may impinge on the interests of subscribers to this
group.  Your comments should be posted to news.groups.  A Call for votes
should appear in about three weeks, in these same groups.

Thank you.

Harris Lowenhaupt
Cast Earth
Nickel Laterites
702-294-1132


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:57:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Message-ID: <1996Apr29.124739.22926@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 29 Apr 96 12:47:39 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4m1hb8$l80@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>, a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz) writes:
|>Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
|>supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
|>prices.

My favorite is MSC.  I've also heard good things about Rutland
(though they still haven't sent me a catalog :-(.

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.
 
   -  Rutland Tool & Supply
      16700 E. Gale Avenue
      City of Industry, CA.  91745-0587
      (800) 289-4787, (818) 961-7111, (800) 333-3787 (FAX)

      (courtesy of Jon Bork)

      Rutland is a general machine shop supply house, with a good selection
      of tools, machines and accessories.  They primarily deal with
      professionals, but I have dealt with them in person and by phone and
      they have always been helpful and quick.  They send out several
      catalogs yearly including a new safety equipment supply catalog.
      Their prices are reasonable and they stock both top of the line and
      "quality import" selections for most items.

      (Will Martin reports they ask for a company name before sending
      out a catalog)
 
Also, there is an extensive list of vendors at http://plains.uwyo/edu/~metal.

Jim


From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and other places to visit
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:54:10 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 3
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References: <4l5hdm$rqk@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <4liit1$p2b@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <960425185346@seashore.ftp.com>
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Auctioned off, sold to other museums, etc., I think.




From berry@a.chem.upenn.edu Sun May  5 13:57:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:21:38 -0400
Organization: Penn Chemistry
Lines: 61
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b6

Several folks asked me to post this description of how to silver glass
(i.e., make mirrors.)  Here it is.

BTW, I originally posted that Steve Raynor's original warning about silver
solutions was somewhat incorrect.  I hope I wasn't the "
interesting/insulting flame" Steve mentioned later.  My point was simply
that silver nitrate solutions are stable indefinitely; it's silver
solutions CONTAINING AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE that become unstable.   

Also, the silver films deposited by this method should probably be
protected from scratches and tarnish/oxidation with paint, laquer, etc.  

This is my first contribution after lurking here for a while and learning
quite a bit.  I hope people find this useful.

-Don Berry
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu

------
>From  old notes from a glass blowing class (similar to procedure I found in
an old CRC)

     Brasher Silvering Process

Prepare 3 solutions:

A.  50 g AgNO3 in 2 L distilled water
B.  90 g KOH  in 2 L distilled water
C.  7.8 g dextrose in 100 mL distilled water

Will also need concentrated NH4OH

The article to be silvered must be VERY CLEAN and completely
free of traces of organic materials (e.g. finger prints,
grease, etc.)  Avoid cleaning with dichromate; hot detergent
works well, but must be COMPLETELY rinsed off.

After the article has been cleaned and rinsed it should be kept
moist with distilled water

The silvering solution is prepared from the above solutions
in the following amounts:  16A + 8B + 1C.  Measure solution A
into a beaker and add conc. NH4OH dropwise until the ppt. which
forms just dissolves.  Avoid excess NH4OH.  Next add solution B
and a dark brown or black ppt should form.  If the ppt is light
brown or green, discard and start over again.  Add more NH4OH until
the ppt almost, but not entirely, re-disolves.  DO NOT LET THIS
SOLUTION STAND AROUND TOO LONG (it will become dangerously unstable
upon air oxidation; don't keep overnight.)  Finally add solution C
and immediately pour the mixture into (onto) the article to be
silvered.  Vigorous shaking of the mixture produces a better film than
allowing the solution to remain still.  It is sometimes advantageous
to wash the article in solution C, leaving the article wet prior to 
adding the silvering solution.

After silvering is completed, carefully rinse the excess silver ppt.
>from  the article several times with distilled water to prevent staining.
A final acetone rinse may be used to dry it.  A second coat of silver
can be applied if desired, in which case DO NOT dry with acetone between
coats.  While wet, the silver coat can be easily rubbed off, however,
when dry it becomes semi-permanent.


From jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com Sun May  5 13:57:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com!billy.mlb.semi.harris.com!jws
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welding electrical conduit?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 14:59:34 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne, Florida
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m2lgm$bga@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>
References: <4m2cn3$1ue@b30news.b30.ingr.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: billy.mlb.semi.harris.com

 EMT conduit can be welded; I did a large-ish awning frame using 3/4" 
EMT and a MIG welder. Grind off the galvanization 1" back from the weld
site (I used an angle grinder with coarse sandpaper wheel).

 If you want to make a good fit-up, use a hole saw of the same size
as the tubing to make any cuts that are Tee-fit. A hole saw in a
small drill press works well, and you just go center-to-center for
the right final cut.

 If you smell the zinc fumes you need better ventilation.

 The joints will be unprotected after welding and will want some 
sort of cold galv primer, etc.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FAQ's.  Where???
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:19:00 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 4
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Try
  http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html




From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:25:19 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 5
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To: steamer@west.net

Brownell's in Montezuma, Iowa, sells (or sold) a name etching
setup like you describe.





From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 29 Apr 1996 15:17:14 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
Lines: 6
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I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss an M-head Bridgeport.
B&S #7 or Morse #2 collets are readily available, and
you don't need very many anyway.  You could probably
get by with 3/16", 3/8", and 1/2".




From billg63475@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 29 Apr 1996 11:22:48 -0400
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>Just received more Sherline  retro-fit literature today. IMHO $5,000 for
a
>CNC Sherline mill is nothing  short of  obscene! I can buy the standard
>mill for  less than $500.  Can anyone tell me  why it must cost 900% more

>for the  retro-fit? With a profit margin like this I am in the wrong
>business. Just venting <G>.

>>>>Bill Rittner


So.... Just what are you getting for your $5000.00?? You should include a
little more information in your venting! I have a Converted Sherline that
I bought for something like $4700.00 and it has paid for itself several
times over! I guess it all depends on what your application is and how
much you like dealing with sub standard equipment! 

So what do you think is a reasonable price to pay for a fully converted 3
axis milling machine with Industry standard compatability? How many people
will you find to buy your machine?

Bill Griffin


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:57:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need tooling supplies
Date: 29 Apr 1996 04:42:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Apr 28 11:42:16 PM CDT 1996

Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
prices.

Thanks.

Alan


From eric@iptcorp.com Sun May  5 13:57:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eric@iptcorp.com (Eric Wilner)
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Message-ID: <DqLF0A.7wM@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <1996Apr26.130708.4443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 22:12:10 GMT
Lines: 19

ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:
: When you use silver nitrate solutions to silver an object, throw out the 
: left over solution right away!  In about an hour, it will degrade into 
: silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 

Actually, silver fulminate isn't all that unstable -- but the reaction
between some silver salts (notably the nitrate) and ammonia produces
a compound called fulminating silver, exact composition unknown last
I heard, which is just as nasty as you say.

+------------------- Hitchhiker on the Information Onramp --------------------+
|   Eric J. Wilner        (Silicon Gulch Gumby)          eric@iptcorp.com     |
|            Avian upper stage: Aratinga S. ("Tinga") Bird                    |
|   work:  415-494-7500    home:  408-744-1845      flames:  900-767-1111     |
+------------ DISCLAIMER -------------+------------- PROVERB -----------------+
|Federal law forbids transportation   |They'll take my book away from me when |
|if refilled. Batteries not included. |they pry my cold stiff fingers off the |
|Use only as directed. No step.       |binding.                               |
+------ The author is insane.  Any opinions are those of Great Cthulhu. ------+


From wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com Sun May  5 13:57:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: 30 Apr 1996 12:48:48 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - Marlboro, MA
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To: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com

The usual: look in the FAQ, the http: address of which is
in another note just a bit above yours.

The "biggie" is undoubtedly MSC, with their 3000+ page
catalog.  There's a couple hundred pages of nothing but
drills.  You would never believe there were so many kinds
of drills....  Service is fast and good.  I find they're also
honest in their descriptions.  If something isn't all that
great they'll say so.

I also like Travers Tool Co.  Their selection is smaller, 
but they sometimes have things MSC doesn't (hard as that
may be to believe!).  I've found their quality to be uniformly
good, no matter what I've ordered.  

Reid Tool Co. is smaller yet, but very pleasant to deal with.
Unlike MSC and Travers, Reid's has no minimum order.  I try
to give them a decent-sized order though, just so they don't
actually lose money on me.

But check out the FAQ.



From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Sun May  5 13:57:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ENCO Is NOT Sleazy :-)
Date: 30 Apr 1996 13:37:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T
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Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <4m552q$9df@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ihgp4.ih.att.com

I never have any problems with Enco, I just drive downtown
to Chicago and go right to their main warehouse. I walk up
to the counter with one hand stuck into my jacket in the
inside pocket. I tell them I'm a gunsmith. They always
seem very anxious to give me exactly what I ask for. (-;

                                    Larry Mayo


From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Sun May  5 13:57:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What's The Number for HARBOR FREIGHT ??
Date: 30 Apr 1996 13:31:41 GMT
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ihgp4.ih.att.com


I finally decided to break down and order the hobby lathe
fron Harbor Freight. For $400 bucks how can you go wrong?
Or can you?   

Anyway, My wife tossed their catalog and I need to have 
their ordering number. Thanks.

                               Larry Mayo


From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:57:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Welder and anvils available
Date: 30 Apr 1996 15:04:14 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 16
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My father - ex machinist, perfectionist, etc is cleaning out his garage.

He has the following available:

2 - Blacksmith's anvils, 175 lb Vulcan brand with angle iron stands
$350 each

Lincoln 250 Amp AC/DC Shop Welder, Single Phase on a heavy duty wheeled
cart. VGC - $300.00

Location:
Plymouth, MI  (Just west of Detroit)

Send me a e-mail and I can hook you up with my Dad if you're interested.

Dave 73744.2077@Compuserve.com


From romeug@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: sandblasting
Date: 29 Apr 1996 23:42:23 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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i am looking for a good tape resist to get a clean border around a 33x60
glass tabletop that is required for a commision i am working on.  most of
the tape i use is quickly disinigrated by the force of my pressure feed
blaster using quickblast fine sand.  i use this sand primarily because i
do not have a booth, doing it outside, and can only reclaim a limited
amount, therefore cost effective.  i have been saving a good portion of
the media and screening it, hopefully to expand on available textures as
the sand wears.  the resist i have been using is a transparent polyester
film which works well for the designs that i etch, but i would like to
expand my repetoire.  ive heard that silicone caulk works well. any other
methods or resources would be greatly appreciated.

also, is there any mailorder sandblast suppliers or in the philadelphia
area?

thank you
gabriel
romeu@aol.com


From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: 30 Apr 1996 03:54:58 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Distribution: world
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Dennis:
I see you have a reply.  Great.

In one of the Village Press books there was an article on making a radius 
turning tool.  Therein the author described a method of setting the 
desired radius.  I will look it up for you.

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From blake@ncweb.com Sun May  5 13:57:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 23:59:30 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 26
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-29.ncweb.com

In article <4m426v$6vc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG) wrote:

$ i am looking for a good tape resist to get a clean border around a 33x60
$ glass tabletop that is required for a commision i am working on.  most of
$ the tape i use is quickly disinigrated by the force of my pressure feed
$ blaster using quickblast fine sand.  i use this sand primarily because i
$ do not have a booth, doing it outside, and can only reclaim a limited
$ amount, therefore cost effective.  i have been saving a good portion of
$ the media and screening it, hopefully to expand on available textures as
$ the sand wears.  the resist i have been using is a transparent polyester
$ film which works well for the designs that i etch, but i would like to
$ expand my repetoire.  ive heard that silicone caulk works well. any other
$ methods or resources would be greatly appreciated.
$ 
$ also, is there any mailorder sandblast suppliers or in the philadelphia
$ area?
$ 
$ thank you
$ gabriel
$ romeu@aol.com

There is a rubber masking material that we use when sandblasting wood
signs.  This is about 1/16" thick and can even be computer cut.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:57:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 04:34:57 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4m459h$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
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In <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jcarducci@aol.com (JCarducci) writes:
>What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made. I thought 
>that perhaps for the ship building trade there may have been large 
>electric hand drills. I thought of this while I was moving a giant Black &
>Decker 3/4" 3/4hp drill I have. I'd like to know how much bigger they get.
>(I found my B & D at a scrap yard and rebuilt it!)
>
>Curious minds wanna know!
>jc  

As far as standard electric hand drills, Milwaukee makes a big drill that is
good for 1 1/4" in steel.  I've got one.  It has a #3 morse taper socket.
I use it for reaming out holes.  I would hate to get a 1 1/4" twist drill stuck
with this drill, it might spin me around!

Larger drills of this type are made, but bigger ones are usually air powered.

Magnetic base drills are a whole different story.

Dave


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Buying Band Saw Blades
Date: 30 Apr 1996 00:09:24 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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 wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser) writes:

>If you have a Starrett dealer around, Starrett will supply blades welded 
>to length.  I think you have to buy a minimum of 5, and it takes about a 
>week.

My thanks to those of you who responded to my quest for a source of band
saw blades.

The problem with the sources cited is that more than one blade must be
purchased at a time. For small, simple blades, that might not be a
problem, but for 3/4", Variable Tooth, bi-metal blades, at $23-30 each,
it's out of the question for me.

On a tip from Peter Drumm, I am checking out DoALL, and I will let you
know if I succeed. If anyone else knows of another  1-blade-at-a-time
source of good quality blades, please let me know.

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU Sun May  5 13:57:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Gaudio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you calculate the strength of aluminum pipe?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 03:58:41 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
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In article <4lh7tb$ebf@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>,
Alex Burmester <aburmest@ucsd.edu> wrote:
>Will someone share the equation for the strength of aluminum tubing?
>
>Specifically, a short tube supported at both ends and loaded in the 
>middle by a rope slung over the tubing.
>
>Factors would be wall thickness, length and diameter.
>
>Just a good estimate is all I need, nothing fancy and let's
>assume 6061-T6 aluminum.
>
>Thanks much,
>
>Alex.

how are you supporting the ends? (is bending supported? is there
	internal stress?)
what is the ratio of length to diameter? (is shear small?)
what is the ratio of thickness to avg diameter? (will it buckle?)

is the rope constrained to stay at the midpoint? if not, it may
move during service and lead to differing loading conditions.
if so, is the integrity of the aluminum at stake?

a blind application of stress = My/I can lead to incorrect answers.
it's just one component of the overall stress tensor which just will agree with
reality if the tube is fairly long, thick-walled and statically
determinate.


steve.





From abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu Sun May  5 13:57:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu (Burr Fontaine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: elec. wiring f/welder
Date: 30 Apr 1996 16:02:18 GMT
Organization: UW-Madison
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In article <4lu9c1$ket@news.halcyon.com>, bobp@halcyon.com says...
>
>There's no functional reason you couldn't use the cheaper plug and outlet
>for the welder, but it would not meet code.  I suppose the outlet itself 
>would meet code if it had the appropriate size current-carrying 
ground/neutral.
>
According to the pictures of plugs and receptacles in my Grainger catalog, a 
NEMA 6-50 is a 2-pole, 3-wire device and not the 4-wire device that I guessed 
it to be.  So, if that is what the manufacturer of your welder recommends, 
your welder is definitely a 250v unit and does not require 120v from the house 
service anywhere in its operation.

I agree with Bob that there is no functional reason you couldn't use either 
the 6-50 or the 10-50 plugs and receptacles with your welder, but if I were 
doing it, I'd want the receptacle that's permanently added to my house wiring 
to meet code.  In the 6-50 case this would mean using two #10 wires for the 
current conductors and the appropriate size ground wire for connection to the 
ground pin of the receptacle.  (10-2 romex with ground is not commonly 
available so if you buy 10-3 with ground the white wire is tapped up and not 
used.)

If you use the cheaper NEMA10-50 receptacle, it should be wired as a 50-amp 
range circuit, i.e. all three #10 wires are connected to the current carrying 
pins of the receptacle.  If the receptacle is mounted on a metal box, the 
ground wire is used to ground the box.

Burr



From rrice2@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Milling machine for sale
Date: 30 Apr 1996 10:32:17 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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It would be a great help if posts of for sale items mentioned the
location.

Even the state would help me decide whether I wanted to reply or not. In
this case, I am looking for a milling machine, but I can't travel a
thousand miles to check it out, much less haul it a couple of thousand
miles


From jhrisoulas@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for Tin sheet
Date: 30 Apr 1996 12:39:00 -0400
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Here's a hard one, and maybe someone out there could help.

I am looking for pure tin sheet, in 0.007" thickness. I have called all
over the US and no one seems to be able to tell me where I can get some. I
know it is available as I have a sheet right here...;

If anyone has any ideas, well I'd appreciate hearing from you.

Don't care if the supplier is in the US although I would prefer it if they
were for obvioius reasons..

THANK YOU!


Jim Hrisoulas


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:57:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe for air tank?
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 14:07:02 +0100
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In article <DqJwvq.9Gu@uicc.com>, Bob Neidorff <neidorff@uicc.com>
writes
>What do you think of the idea of using a long 4" or 6" diameter
>steel pipe as an air tank?  I was even thinking of an old lolly
>column or something.  You could weld a plate on the ends, or even
>better, thread the ends and screw on caps, then seal the caps with
>a weld bead.  This can't be an original thought.  There must be a
>major problem with this.
>
>Come to think of it, what is so special about commercial air 
>tanks, other than the fact that they are pressure tested?
>--
>Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
>7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
>Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564
Bob,

The tank on my compressor was far too small, but by connecting a long
length of underground poly water service pipe to feed my foundry at the
bottom of my garden with compressed air all was solved ! I've calculated
that the volume of the pipe is almost as much again as the tank.
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK 0181-466-5582

<-------------Happiness is a fully ticked off list------------->


From THDN60A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: THDN60A@prodigy.com (Lud Pietz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ISO Heller Bros Catalog
Date: 29 Apr 1996 23:11:18 GMT
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I'm seeking catalogs from Heller Bros. or Heller Tool Co.  Would 
especially like catalog 20D, dated 1894.  Reprints or reproductions (will 
pay copy costs and postage).
-
  LUD PIETZ  THDN60A@prodigy.com




From eliot@mit.edu Sun May  5 13:57:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eliot@mit.edu (Newton E Mack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Date: 30 Apr 1996 04:40:38 GMT
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
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Mike DeMetz (MDemetz@gnn.com) wrote:
: There is a book from England by a Mister Schreckling on building
: a turbine engine for R/C. A lot of hobbyist over there are building them.

Where is this book available--is there a reseller in the US or where is
it originally published in England?  If anyone can point me toward this
it would be highly appreciated . . 

Thanks,

Eliot


From EDCP78A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:57:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ashlar DrawingBoard: Any Hassles?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 12:04:00 GMT
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I had no problem with my order either.  I have had DrawingBoard for about 
2 months and find it really easy.  Hope you resolve your problem, must 
have been an office error of entering 2 orders for you.  Alex



From steven.robertson@gtri.gatech.edu Sun May  5 13:57:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Robertson <steven.robertson@gtri.gatech.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Touring in Berlin, Germany
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:39:00 -0400
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I will be in Berlin, Germany in mid-May.  If anyone knows of any 
"metalworking" sites there or within a hundred miles or so, I would 
appreciate it.  I suppose it is too late to visit a "Traubie" plant.

Thanks,

Steve Robertson


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:57:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Oil Burner Foundry
Date: 30 Apr 1996 00:06:09 -0400
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 t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron) writes:

>Hi Ed,   I built a small furnace a few years ago,  It will melt 1/2-gal
of Alu in 
>1/2-hour with 1/2-gal of fuel oil.     And will melt 1/2gal of brass in
>1-hour with 1-gal of fuel oil.  Never did try it with grey cast iron but
have read over
>the years that it will do it.     My first meltings, I used my shop vac
for the forced
>air supply until I cast a housing and blade, driven by a variable speed
electric motor.


Tom

Why did you need a source of  forced air? 

The (my) oil burner unit has it's own fan. Was yours missing/kaput, or was
the burner fan not strong enough for the job? What gal/hr was your burning
rate?

------------------
Ed Kingsley






From taylorz@primenet.com Sun May  5 13:57:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Scott Taylor <taylorz@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:17:02 -0700
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On 23 Apr 1996 vis_axm@shsu.edu wrote:

> In article <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net>, @ (ctv) writes:
> >MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
> >
> >Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
> >Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
> >about 10 minutes to do!

> >Sierra CTV
> >P.O. Box 1203
> >Secaucus, NJ
> >07096-1203
> >
> >
> >
> 
> I picked up a copy of Popular Science magazine the other day
> In the back of the magazine in the classified section 12 adds
> selling Test Modules, 1-800 numbers, taking visa, offering
> technical info. They must say in the add not for illegal use 
> for testing only. That is only a legal disclaimer.  They
> wont to sell as many as they can to anyone that wonts them
> Sounds good to me Looks pretty good to me.     
> 
Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable 
business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the modules 
or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and will 
ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable companies 
in the area where the products have been sent. This includes 
names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines alot of 
people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their meters, they 
can see alot more than you think.
                                           -----ST

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
taylorz                                
taylorz@primenet.com                   

                                       The Taylor Family                                          
                                         Marana, Arizona


-------------------------------------------------------------------------



From tc@execpc.com Sun May  5 13:57:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Anthony J. Cesarone" <tc@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Request for information
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 18:10:25 -0500
Organization: Exec-PC BBS - Milwaukee, WI
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Anthony J. Cesarone wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a used eletric oven for the purpose of
> heating metal parts to about 400 degrees F? Minimum internal dimensions
> are 24" X 24" X 24". Thanks for any info. Please reply to tc@execpc.com


Sorry, I guess I should have given more information on the use of the 
oven. The oven will be used to heat a aluminum engine block of about 90 
lbs. This makes using a home kitchen oven a little tough. The 
oven dimensions given in the original article is the "minimum" size. 
Many thanks to those who responded to my request. I'll try to be more 
specific next time.

TC


From bhurley@washington.xtn.net Sun May  5 13:57:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Hurley <bhurley@washington.xtn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rivet sources
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:40:25 -0400
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Can anyone help me find an economical source for rivits,
especially soft iron round head of 1/8 to 3/16 dia?

I'm trying to learn to build medieval armor.

Thanks,
Bob


From tabco@alpha.pulsar.net Sun May  5 13:57:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: TABco <tabco@alpha.pulsar.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cannon Plans (wanted)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 14:07:02 PDT
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Looking for plans for a cannon, any style.

TABco <tabco@alpha.pulsar.net>



From rcook@BIX.com Sun May  5 13:57:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique-ish bellows?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 14:43:00 GMT
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Michael L Barocas wrote:
>.However, we kinda want to 
>do it "the old-fashioned way" for the most part.  Does anyone have or 
>know where I can get an old bellows?

I think you're going to end up making one. Check out Alex Bealer's book on
blacksmithing for the basic principles.

--RC


From slbailey@bu.edu Sun May  5 13:57:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey)
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Followup-To: rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Date: 30 Apr 1996 15:21:53 GMT
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Please note this thread is being posted to about 20 newsgroups -- if you
follow up please edit your headers. (Or, better yet, drop it.)


From twalker@infosphere.com Sun May  5 13:57:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:12:14 -0600
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Scott Taylor wrote:
[deleted]
> Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable
> business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the modules
> or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and will
> ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable companies
> in the area where the products have been sent. This includes
> names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines alot of
> people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their meters, they
> can see alot more than you think.

so, uh, what's your point ? 

is it illegal to own one of these boxes ?

TimW


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:57:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ways to protect ways and screws from grit and swarf
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:43:32 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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If you want the aluminum foil to be 'sticky' to grit,
try spraying it with WD-40 or similar spray.  Probably
PAM from the kitchen would work too.

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com Sun May  5 13:57:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "j.battista" <jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What's The Number for HARBOR FREIGHT ??
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 11:19:21 -0400
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I ordered it and returned it about 1 week after it arrived.  they
advertise it as a 7x10 but with the live center in the tailstock,
it was about a 7x6, i thought it would be too limited.  I guess it
depends on what you are planning to do with it.

joe


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: 30 Apr 1996 11:30:54 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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 steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:

> have seen a technique that involves a sort of pad, probably 
>soaked in some sort of electrolyte, which is pressed (lightly) onto a 
>metal part, using a mask (I think) to etch letters or an image onto a 
>part. The questions: --What is this process generally referred to as? 
>--Who sells this kind of equipment?? 

I believe you're refering to the "Etch-O-Matic", and it's carried by MSC
(page 1527 of the latest catalog) Two kits are available, 1 amp and 10
amp, for $59.95 and $169.95 respectively.

I have one of the 1 amp kits. I haven't used it for years, but my
recollection is that it works quite well. It uses a stencil, which can be
typed or hand scribed, a pad containing the solution, a ground plate and a
transformer.

It actually etches into the metal, about .002" (for the 1 amp model, .003"
for the 10 amp model), according to the literature. Since it's not plated
onto the metal, I would imagine that anodizing wouldn't erase it.

It works on Aluminum, but the electrolyte solution for Aluminum is not
included with the kit. It's available separately for $8.95 (4 oz).

MSC's 800 number is 645-7270.
           Part numbers:
The 1 amp kit is ...    09021015
The AL solution is ..  09021064

The 10 amp is the 'production line' model; a little deeper and a bit
faster, but lots more expensive.

Hope this helps.

------------------
Ed Kingsley







From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:58:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:59:02 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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In a talk given by a used machine tool company owner,
we were told about the latest tools for reconditioning,
and indeed, building new, machine tool ways.

Forget the Turcite, guys, now you can pour your new
movable slides.

An example of rebuilding a lathe:

1. Have the ways ground at about $100- $150 per foot.
   Tell the grinding shop how much you want removed.
2. When the bed comes back you then coat it with
   mold release (evenly would be a good idea).
3. Jack up your headstock, carriage and tailstock
   by the same amount as was removed from the bed.
4. Inject a (sort of) Turcite-like epoxy called
   Moglich (made in Germany) under the three items
   and Voila!, you have a new, perfectly fit up
   lathe.
   Note:  This is not the full story but it is close to
   true.
   Cost:  Moglich (from Germany) costs about $125 per pint.
   Source: I have to find it yet.  But it exists.

   Cautions:  From the same source, we learned that
              bed grinding is a hit and miss business
              with a high probablility of problems.
              Of course the reputable shops will redo
              the job but first you have to detect a
              problem.  Not easy, I'd say.

My feeling is that there are a lot of other problems
contributing to lathe inacuracies that should be corrected
before looking to 'fix' the bed.  It takes a lot of way wear
before your lathe will no longer hold 0.001".

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus

P.S.  NAMES was simply marvelous darlinks!



From jesw@mitre.org Sun May  5 13:58:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: backyard welding??
Date: 30 Apr 1996 18:08:36 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <jesw-3004961409080001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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> hello, this humble knownothin asks this question: can i use a welder (what
> type?) to weld together auto engine parts (cranks, axles...) in my
> backyard. this thing will be kept outside through extreme
> weather...?...thanks
   Depends on whether you are doing serious structural repairs or making
scrap sculpture. 
   The artists I've known all used oxy-acetylene.  It doesn't glob extra
metal onto the joint and it is the only type of (cheap) welder that will
also cut up heavy steel.  
   There is an old guy living near me who cuts up scrap for a living, and
he just leaves his oxy-acetylene rig outdoors year-round.  The weather
doesn't seem to harm it.  However, the tanks are very dangerous if they
tip over and the valve gets broken off, or if kids can play with them.


From abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu Sun May  5 13:58:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu (Burr Fontaine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: elec. wiring f/welder
Date: 30 Apr 1996 16:31:59 GMT
Organization: UW-Madison
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In article <4m5dia$puo@news.doit.wisc.edu>, abfontai@facstaff.wisc.edu says...
>... In the 6-50 case this would mean using two #10 wires for the 
>current conductors ...

I also said a few non-repeatable things as I read the screen again after
pushing send, but it was too late!! 

    A 50-amp circuit requires #6 wire and not #10, sorry. Burr



From darylb@bnr.ca Sun May  5 13:58:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:26:11 +0000
Organization: bnr
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In article <nC518DC86@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>, mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
(Mick Collins) wrote:
>   And if they're also interested in automata, the Mechanical Music
> Museum is only a short walk up the road from the pumping station.
>   -- 
>      Cheers
> 
>   Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
>                                  the sound of hammering tin"

Do they have an on-line web page?

Daryl

-- 
A Prisoner of "BOTTOMLINE WORLD"

To those who followed Columbus and Cortez, the New World truly seemed incredible because of the natural endowments. The land often announced itself with a heavy scent miles out into the ocean. Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524 smelled the cedars of the East Coast a hundred leagues out. The men of Henry Hudson's Half Moon were temporarily disarmed by the fragrance of the New Jersey shore, while ships running farther up the coast occasionally swam through large beds of  flowers. Wherever they came inland they found a rich riot of color and sound, of game and luxuriant vegetation. Had they been other than who they were, they might have written a new mythology here. As it was, they took inventory.- Frederick Turner


From vivien@holonet.net Sun May  5 13:58:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!en.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!news4.agis.net!agis!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!usenet
From: Renee Vivien <vivien@holonet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 01:24:58 -0700
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There's nothing more rude than someone who cross-posts their ads or off 
topic twaddle to dozens of newsgroups.

The next worst thing is the follow-ups that are also cross-posted. I 
know it's so tempting to tell the originator how you feel about them, 
but you're contributing to the problem and legitimizing what they've 
done. In many cases, I'm sure the originators are delighted to see their 
ads re-posted over and over. And the crazies are always delighted when 
someone notices them. But you'll notice that many of them hide their 
e-mail address which means they know what they're doing is wrong and 
they don't want to dialog ... they want us as a captive audience.

As hard as it is, the best way to handle these rude people is to ignore 
them completely. If you can figure out their e-mail address, complain to 
their postmaster! That ALWAYS makes me feel better!

Renee Vivien
breaking her own rule about cross-posting by posting this....


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:58:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Date: 29 Apr 1996 20:37:34 GMT
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Name:        Metric and Multistandard Corporation
Phone:       (708) 655-9009 chicago

Despite the name, they also carry a wide variety of Whitworth,
BSP, BSF, and BA tools and hardware. The catalog is a wonder to behold.


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun May  5 13:58:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:32:25 +0000
Organization: bnr
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Sounds like you want electrical tape 3ft wide. I experimented with
electrical tape and it seamed to work but I ultimately wanted to try fancy
patterns and electrical tape precluded this

Daryl

In article <4m426v$6vc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG) wrote:

> i am looking for a good tape resist to get a clean border around a 33x60
> glass tabletop that is required for a commision i am working on.  most of

-- 
A Prisoner of "BOTTOMLINE WORLD"

To those who followed Columbus and Cortez, the New World truly seemed incredible because of the natural endowments. The land often announced itself with a heavy scent miles out into the ocean. Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524 smelled the cedars of the East Coast a hundred leagues out. The men of Henry Hudson's Half Moon were temporarily disarmed by the fragrance of the New Jersey shore, while ships running farther up the coast occasionally swam through large beds of  flowers. Wherever they came inland they found a rich riot of color and sound, of game and luxuriant vegetation. Had they been other than who they were, they might have written a new mythology here. As it was, they took inventory.- Frederick Turner


From billg63475@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 30 Apr 1996 12:21:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4m3pvu$325@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, writt@aol.com (WRitt)
writes:

>There are very good retrofits for the Sherline on the market for  $1200
to
>$1500.There is no need to pay $5000 just to fill the pockets of a greedy
>business.
>
>Bill Rittner

Do you have any telephone numbers and or addresses for these vendors. I
would be interested in seeing what they are offering.

One of the things that I failed to point out in my earlier message was
that I have 2 of these $5,000.00 retrofit kits and both are using the AhHa
software (CNC Pro) one of the controllers is also from AhHa the other was
custom built and is used on an older Light Machine TMC-1000 with ball
screws. I use BobCAD CAM to create tool paths from drawings created mostly
in Cad Key and Pro E. I have also found BobCAD to be a capable basic
drawing program as well.

I have to agree that that average hobbiest probably cant justify this cost
for a hobby but I am not aware of any lower priced retrofits that are
complete and professional.

I know that you can buy a 3 axis driver board from Dan Mauch at
Camtronics, Either have him build it or build it yourself and find a
suitable power supply and a cabinet to house it in. Use the Dan CAD CAm
Software which is basically free ($10.00 to $15.00). Surplus or new motors
and suitable motor mouns are also needed. I feel that you could get a
system like this up and runing for probably less than the cost of the
Sherline Deluxe Mill. I found the Dan Cad Cam stuff to be cumbersome and
not very user friendly but functional which would probably be fine for the
hobbiest. I have found that 50 Oz In motors will work on all 3 axis, but a
120 oz in motor on Z would be more desirable.

Bill Griffin


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Request for information
Date: 30 Apr 1996 19:21:53 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Anthony J. Cesarone (tc@execpc.com) wrote:
: heating metal parts to about 400 degrees F? Minimum internal dimensions 
: are 24" X 24" X 24". Thanks for any info. Please reply to tc@execpc.com

Have you tried the Salvation Army?  Your requirements are awfully close to
that of a conventional range.

Pete Brooks



From ernieleim@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q:Helium Gas for MIg Welding?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 00:36:30 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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> lj95315@butch.lmsc (Glenn R. Decastro) asked :

>Is it there a benefit using helium gas versus Argon-CO2?  Can the 
>Argon-CO2 regulator be used for the substitution?
>What metal used this be used for?


Helium has little benefit in MIG welding of steel, but for stainless it is
essential for clean oxide free welds, and for aluminum it helps blow
through oxides, dirt and also boosts the heat ( penetration ).
For stainless use a Helium tri-mix. This is a standard mix that most gas
suppliers carry. 
For aluminum I use a helium-argon mix. You can buy this as a premade mix
or do what I do , and mix it myself from a tank of each. 
Mixes for aluminum are available in several ratios. 
25% helium / 75% argon --- for generally cleaner welds
50% helium / 50% argon --- for greater penetration
75% helium / 25% argon --- for maximum penetration
All tri-mixes and argon/helium mixes are proprietary. 
This means that you can't own the tanks, and have to rent them.
That is why I use a manifold and mix it myself. I can own the tanks and
can adjust the mix according to my needs.

Hope this helps


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:58:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:09:09 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4m2ms8$jkb@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
BILLG63475 <billg63475@aol.com> wrote:
>>Just received more Sherline  retro-fit literature today. IMHO $5,000 for
>a
>>CNC Sherline mill is nothing  short of  obscene! I can buy the standard
>>mill for  less than $500.  Can anyone tell me  why it must cost 900% more
>
>>for the  retro-fit? With a profit margin like this I am in the wrong
>>business. Just venting <G>.
>
>>>>>Bill Rittner
>
>
>So.... Just what are you getting for your $5000.00?? You should include a
>little more information in your venting! I have a Converted Sherline that
>I bought for something like $4700.00 and it has paid for itself several
>times over! I guess it all depends on what your application is and how
>much you like dealing with sub standard equipment! 
>
>So what do you think is a reasonable price to pay for a fully converted 3
>axis milling machine with Industry standard compatability? How many people
>will you find to buy your machine?
>
>Bill Griffin

There is a guy in L.A. that advertises a new Mill-Drill CNC for $3850.  
It is a typical Mill-Drill, Enco, Jet, Rutland, whatever, that probably 
sells for around $1200, I'd say.  It is 3 axis and comes with software.  
I would say it does not have ball screws.

I don't know the bed size of a sherline, but the standard Mill-Drills 
are  about 8" x 28" table.

I would say 5000 for a retrofit is a lot for three stepper motors, a 
driver box, and some public software.  On the other hand, evidently 
Sherline can get the price and the retrofitters can get theirs from 
people who don't want to take the time to DIY.  After all, if you can 
write it off against taxes, who cares about the price?  If you are a home 
shop machinest/hobbiest, you do care.

JerryK



From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:58:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welding electrical conduit?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 04:51:06 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4m467q$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
References: <4m2cn3$1ue@b30news.b30.ingr.com>
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.03

In <4m2cn3$1ue@b30news.b30.ingr.com>, abburns@ingr.com (Ashley Burns) writes:
>A project I am doing needs some round tubing. Electrical conduit is very 
>cheap compared to other round tubing.  Can the conduit be welded? I think 
>the conduit is galvanized.
>
>Thanks..
>
>Ashley Burns
>abburns@ingr.com
>

Ashley,

Electrical Conduit is weldable.  I have used a mig welder to do it several times
for various projects.  There are a number of grades of electrical conduit, namely
EMT, Intermediate, and rigid.  EMT is the light stuff you can find everywhere, 
rigid looks like water pipe.  The problem with welding conduit is that it is galvanized,
so make sure you wear a really good carbon filter mask with plenty of ventilation 
besides that, or else you can easily damage your lungs from the welding fumes.

But it is cheap.

Dave



From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:58:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news.ac.net!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl13.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Best price on sherline in south Cal.
Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:17:26 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4m3im6$77m@crl13.crl.com>
References: <4m1i1p$car@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com

In article <4m1i1p$car@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
NHayes4793 <nhayes4793@aol.com> wrote:
>Well, my wife has finally caved in and decided it's easier to let me buy a
>sherline lathe than listen to me dream about it.  So if things go well
>I'll be buying one in the next couple of weeks.
>
>I have contacted sherline for the price, and even though I live only an
>hour or so from their plant it's cheaper for me to buy it from Blue Ridge
>Machinery on the east coast.
>
>I can understand that sherline doesn't want to undercut their
>distributors, so now I'm hoping to find one with good pricing somewhere in
>southern California.
>
>Does anyone know of a distributor in the L.A area with good pricing.
>
>Thanks for any help
>

Generally, shipping costs are less than the 8%+ sales tax in CA.  I'd look 
for someone in Arizona or Nevada, that is close.

JerryK


From maporter@sky.net Sun May  5 13:58:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!alpha.sky.net!news	
From: Mike Porter <maporter@sky.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 17:37:42 -0500
Organization: Dynamic Analysis
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <318544B6.181A@sky.net>
References: <4lh8s8$l2f@uruguay.it.earthlink.net> <4ljm6v$288@ghost.shsu.edu> <Pine.BSD.3.91.960429115704.3367A-100000@usr6.primenet.com> <31853EBE.D5@infosphere.com>
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T-Bone wrote:
> 
> Scott Taylor wrote:
> [deleted]
> > Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable
> > business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the modules
> > or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and will
> > ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable companies
> > in the area where the products have been sent. This includes
> > names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines alot of
> > people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their meters, they
> > can see alot more than you think.
> 
> so, uh, what's your point ?
> 
> is it illegal to own one of these boxes ?
> 

Own?  Probably not.  Use?  Probably. Using something, like cable service, without permission is 
often classified as theft.)


-- 
Mike Porter		Stress and Vibration Consulting Services
Dynamic Analysis	FEA Consulting and Training
(913) 341-3269


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:58:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!enews.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: 30 Apr 1996 18:08:26 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


I have never done it sandblasting, but I often use plasticene
(modeling clay) as a masking agent when painting. It just might work
for blasting glass; worth giving a try.


From MAWPARTY@ANV.NET Sun May  5 13:58:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MAWPARTY@ANV.NET (BOB SULLIVAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Subject: "Might As Well Party"
Date: 26 Apr 1996 19:41:12 GMT
Organization: MIGHT AS WELL PARTY
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Republican Party, Democratic Party,now,"Might As Well Party"
join us http://www.mawparty.com



From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Sun May  5 13:58:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!lf.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplntx!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Biggest hand electric drill?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 15:20:10 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 21
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

In article <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jcarducci@aol.com
(JCarducci) wrote:

> What is the biggest hand elecric drill made/ that was made. I thought 
> that perhaps for the ship building trade there may have been large 
> electric hand drills. I thought of this while I was moving a giant Black &
> Decker 3/4" 3/4hp drill I have. I'd like to know how much bigger they get.
> (I found my B & D at a scrap yard and rebuilt it!)
> 
> Curious minds wanna know!
> jc  

My Dad has a 1940's Chicago Pneumatic electric with a 3/4" Jacobs chuck
and an Ingersoll Rand air drill with a No. 5 (that's not a typo) Morse
taper socket. The latter monster requires two guys just to pick it up. As
I recall it needs something like 100 cfm at 100 psi. Don't ask me why he
bought it. Both drills have jack screws built into the top.

-- 
Rich Klopp
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun May  5 13:58:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!axis.mtholyoke.edu!not-for-mail
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades
Date: 29 Apr 1996 17:07:08 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4m2svs$jmr@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
References: <4leaim$q9a@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

Edk4 (edk4@aol.com) wrote:
> I have been unable to find a supplier of welded-to-size bandsaw blades for
> a 15" Delta Metal Cutting Bandsaw (93 1/2")  - specifically in the
> configuration:
> 

[ ... ]

If you have a Starrett dealer around, Starrett will supply blades welded 
to length.  I think you have to buy a minimum of 5, and it takes about a 
week.

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From rrice2@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.u.washington.edu!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!news.cyberstore.ca!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying Band Saw Blades
Date: 30 Apr 1996 11:44:10 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In Atlanta, Keen-Edge will make up one band saw blede to your length for a
reasonable price ( about $20 for a 10-14 variable pitch HSS blade).

I don't know if they do mail order (I suspect not)

Roy


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:58:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!news4.agis.net!agis!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: NAMES
Message-ID: <1996Apr30.021358.25676@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Sender: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 02:13:58 GMT
Lines: 77

Since I haven't seen anyone else that was at NAMES report of the show,
I'll write up my impressions and hope that they're simply crossing
other's posts.  I'll likely post this same article to other groups, so
if you're on modeleng-list, CIS and in rec.crafts.metalworking O
apologize in advance for the duplication.
 
First, let me say that everyone one I met in the area was friendly
almost to a fault, from the fellow who struck up a conversation with
me on my flight in from Chicago to Detroit, then went to the trouble
of taking me to the Ramada from the airport on his way home (with wife
and kids) to the young lady working for Ramada (gads, but she was a
cutie) who overheard my ordering a cab to the airport and mentioned
that she was heading out that way in just a few minutes nd would be
glad to take me to the terminal. Amazingly nice folks.
 
In the Ramada stayed several of the regulars, the Logans (of the Logan
Actuator Company and supplier of repair/replacement parts for Logan
lathes (and some Southbend parts as well, I guess), Dave Sobel of
Sobel Machinery, etc.  The motel was surprised to be full on Saturday
night and I'd guess that quite a bit was from the NAMES crowd.
 
I met quite a few folks I know by name, and a number of lurkers from
r.c.m and CIS.  Ron Ginger gave a talk on "Metalworking on the
Internet" while I kibitzed (sorry about that, Ron) that was well
received, with the Sunday session having quite a few newbies.  I have
the feeling that all the lists getting this message will be seeing
some new faces in the coming months.
 
I'm surprised that the entry fee for the NAMES ($4, or about 2.5 quid)
covers any significant amount of the cost.  I don't expect that the
vendor fees are significant, and know that the exhibitor's fees are
dang near non-existent.  Entry gained a nice button that would get you
access both days of the show and a 38 page booklet on the exhibition.
The booklet have photos from previous shows, adverts from vendors both
at the show and some not present.  Some 60 vendors are listed as being
present, and cover about 1/2 of the show floor space.  I understood
that vendors were turned away for a lack of table space.
 
Vendors included most of the larger companies selling castings of one
kind or another, and many selling completed engines.  Other vendors
were selling used equipment in one shape or another at various prices.
A couple of vendors were selling only new hardware.  A new (to me,
anyway) distributor for Cowells was present, so I finally got to play
with the Cowells hardware that I've seen so often in the pages of
Model Engineer.  Sherline was there as well, being sold be them
directly as well as by several of the vendors.  I was very impressed
by the quality in both vendor's booths and products.
 
Ah, but the models.  All over the place, on vendor's tables and on the
600 feet of display tables.  Everything you might even imagine.  Not a
lot of scale models as much as engines of all descriptions, from tin
can Stirling cycle engines to hit & miss to completed scale V8
engines.  No steam was provided, but instead compressed air at 40 lbs,
which was sufficient for most of the steam engines on display.  Great
fun walking down the displays, chatting with the modellers and talking
about the trials and tribulations of their efforts.  Everything was
there, from museum class work to early smithing, with everyone ready
to discuss what they'd done.
 
I found 2 examples of the Cretor's popcorn/peanut wagon engine on
display, and got to chat with the builders.  Unfortunately, their
castings had come from a different supplier than mine and so their
experience was not the same as mine will be, but the talk will help in
my work.
 
I managed to get away the first day w/o spending too much, just a few
books.  The second day found me with a couple of casting kits that
somehow hopped into my luggage.  Perhaps with enough effort I can get
both finished before the next show...
 
Anyway, lots of fun meeting folks I'd only talked to on the net or
on CIS, and I'm looking forward to the 1997 show already.
 
-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:58:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Westcott Chuck Company?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 20:26:40 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4m5t20$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


Anyone heard of this company? One of the chucks that came with
my 9" SB is a 5" 3-jaw universal made by these folks. I'm taking
it apart to clean out the swarf, and have a question: instead
of three adjusters, it has two... but there are three holes. The
third hole is filled with a metal plug that has a shallow hole
drilled into it and tapped for 1/4-20. 

This doesn't seem right, but before I knock myself out trying to 
remove it (and contemplate a project to make a new adjuster gear)
I thought I'd ask...


From steamer@west.net Sun May  5 13:58:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:30:30 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4m3qfm$l5q@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <31837781.41DE@dmauch.seanet.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

	--I think maybe what irks people about the prices of these 
retrofits is that some "scaling" would seem to be in order. I mean, you can 
get a Fanuc control for just 2x or 3x the price of the $5k Sherline price 
that would drive about 5 hp worth of stepper motors, i.e. you could do some 
serious hogging at that point... What's needed is something with a little 
more *oomph* than those mickey-mouse little motors for the $5k that 
they're socking you... Good value for money, in other words... 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Last Law of Product Design:
	COMING SOON		:	If you can't fix it, feature it.
	http://www.west.net~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From ejb@primenet.com Sun May  5 13:58:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ejb
From: Ed Bennett <ejb@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:25:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet (602)416-7000
Lines: 32
Sender: root@primenet.com
Message-ID: <4m3q5e$pi7@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG>
X-Posted-By: ejb@usr2.primenet.com

I've repaired everything I've purchased from Enco at least once.  The Mill
is less than four years old and I've already fixed the spindle brake
several times, replaced the quill return spring, replaced a gear in the
table feed ($50 and six months wait!) and have had the cheap depth gauge
fall apart several times during production runs.  The latest - the plastic
lens covering the led display on the dro fell off.  The glue just gave up. 
I understand from someone else in the newsgroup that has the same mill
that the lead screw in the table feed is metric, so the dial is not
accurate.  I never detected it because I always use the dro.  In fact, as
I recall, the drawbar was metric as well and I had to get a new one before
I could even use the darn thing.  The vise that I bought used a 1/2-12
thread on the screws that hold the jaws (not the standard 1/2-13). 

I bought the thing under their "six months same as cash" deal that they
used to run a few years ago.  What a sham.  There was a clause in the
contract that allowed them to change any or all of the terms of the
contract without my knowledge or concent.  I refused to sign without
crossing out that part.  I got a lot of static about it but when I offered
to bring it to the authorities, they gave in. 

There were some really nice people working in the Bay Area store.  I
always felt sorry for them having to put up with such a slimy company that
regularly screwed them without warning. 

I swore off Enco completely.  Their prices are always tempting but I can't
afford to save that kind of money. 

--
----------
Ed Bennett                 
ejb@primenet.com                         



From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:58:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!aanews.merit.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: AMMACO 7" Shaper price?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 04:55:23 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4m46fr$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
References: <31852793.1160@mail1.netreach.net>
Reply-To: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.03

In <31852793.1160@mail1.netreach.net>, Alan Reinhart <res@mail1.netreach.net> writes:
>Greetings!
>
>Saw an AMMACO (?) 7" shaper at a flea
>market. It looked used but in pretty good
>shape. They were asking $700 for it - wondering
>if this is a good price.
>
>Also - could any old-timers out there comment on
>what the working capacity of a 7" shaper would be?
>Can you do much usefull work, or is it too small.
>
>Regards -
>
>=Alan R.
>res@netreach.net

Alan,

I have a 7" Ammco shaper.  It is a fine little machine.  

My dad bought it for me a couple of years ago for about $150.00.   Shaper's 
not in high demand now.  However it is quite useful for small machining jobs.

I think $700 is very steep for that shaper.  For not to much more you can pick
up a rebuildable vertical mill.

Dave


From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:58:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anvils
Date: 30 Apr 1996 04:57:20 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
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Someone was looking for Anvils a while back.  I have a line on two 150 lb
Vulcans blacksmithing anvils if anyone is still interested.

Dave


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 29 Apr 1996 17:23:10 GMT
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I joined the Bay Area Engin Modeler's club a couple of weeks ago, and the
speaker was a used tool seller/reconditioner from Santa Cruz.  He mentioned
that there's a rather good way to build up really worn beds and ways..I think
the material is called Turksite, though with my second-hand hearing (bone
replacement implants in both ears), it could have been something that
sounded a bit like it.

If I got it, the stuff is (like?) an epoxy with a bunch of filler metal.
It's molded on about 15 thousandths thick, an then can be scraped in like
cast iron.  The guy said that some new machine tools are being made with
this technique, especially some of the *really* big mills--the kind that fill
a warehouse.

Mike Rehmus was there taking notes.  Perhaps he could elaborate on the 
technique.

Pete Brooks



From res@netreach.net Sun May  5 13:58:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Alan Reinhart <res@mail1.netreach.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:12:35 -0400
Organization: Reinhart Engineering Services
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <318522B3.6473@mail1.netreach.net>
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To: Jerry <docjfg@foto.infi.net>

Jerry wrote:
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Have been reading this newsgroup for a couple of weeks, and really
> enjoy clicking here! Nice to find folks with the same interests.
> 
> I'm sure the following is not an original idea, but would like some
> opinions:
>           I've read (and re-read and re-read) Connelly's book-just
>           fascinating! However, in reconditioning a metal lathe, why
>           not use Tig welding to build up the worn areas of the ways.
>           Just a small section at the time. The original, untouched
>           "ends" would be preserved and used as the reference for
>           grinding/scraping the built-up areas.
> 
>           This would seem to have some advantages, one being the
>           elimination of shafting realignments.
> 
>                        What do you think?

[snip]

NO WAY JOSE!  :-)   Don't weld it - grind it!  I have an old
10" Sheldon that had the kind of wear you mentioned - better than
.020 dip about 8" away from the headstock, where all the kids
(school lathe) did their turning. I stripped the machine down
to bare bone, took the bed, main carriage and tail stock base
to a machine rebuilding shop, and they did the following:

1. Ground the bed flat to .0001"

2. Milled out the V's in the carriage and tailstock base, the
epoxyed in a bearing material that looked like leather but
was some high-tech composite of teflon and other plastic.

Don't be put off by the term 'plastic' - this was VERY rugged
stuff. They called it "plating", and it was to take up the
amount they ground from the bed. Techically, this "plating"
was supposed to be scraped in, but freelance rebuilder told me
not to sweat it - it was MORE than adequate for hobby work.

That work cost $600 in 1984 or so. I also bought new half nuts
>from  Clausing (who now handles Sheldon parts), for $100!
Replaced all the needle bearings in the change gears, and had
a few teeth rebuilt in the bull gear. Stripped all the paint off
of it, then used Rust-Oleum primer and Hunter Green enamel to
refinish it. Looks pretty nice, and does work as good as I am
capable of doing...

I always wonder if I would have been better off just buying one
of those nice Grizzly 12" imports... but is was a lot of fun!

Regards -

Alan R.


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun May  5 13:58:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roman coin cleaning Q
Date: 30 Apr 1996 06:58:25 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 12
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If the crud is lime, vinegar (acetic acid) may be remove it.  Try one of 
the coins so you don't ruin the whole batch.

My wife's stepfather used a system of heating acrylic sheet in a little 
press with coins between the acrylic sheets.  It was a great way to 
produce slides of rare coins.  Some of the slides are probably in the 
Eastman Museum in Rochester NY.

Good luck.   "CC"





From t.c@admin.umass.edu Sun May  5 13:58:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oil Burner Foundry
Date: 30 Apr 1996 22:01:10 GMT
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In article <4m43jh$7is@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:


> Why did you need a source of  forced air? 
> 
> The (my) oil burner unit has it's own fan. Was yours missing/kaput, or was
> the burner fan not strong enough for the job? What gal/hr was your burning
> rate?
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley

Hi Ed,
    I used the nozzle and oil pump with its electric motor from the old burner 
assembly.  The nozzle is mounted in the bottom of the furnace.   The pump is 
connected via flex hose to the nozzle and pipe assembly.
I used variations of different furnaces,   "LI'L Bertha, David J. Gingery, Lindsay 
Publications",  I used examples of a modular furnace sections, to make it mobile.   
"The Charcoal Foundry, David J. Gingery", I used an example of air inlet in his 
charcoal furnace.   "The Gas Fired Furnace, Rod Jones",  used the blower design.   
One gas designed furnace uses a Venturi for mixing gas and air but instead of 
gas, I installed the oil burner nozzle.  With a variable speed on the blower and an 
adjustment on the oil pressure pump,  you can fine tune as you go.   I really don't 
know if the orginal fan would be strong enough.
I fire the furnace with a torch, let furnace warm up, turn on air, insert crucible.  
No seconday high voltage transformer used.  Do have to watch for flame out if 
oil supply is interrupted.  When I'm melting I set up outside in the sand.


TC
t.c@admin.umass.edu



From dlr13@psu.edu Sun May  5 13:58:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dlr13@psu.edu (Doug Ripka)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Needed: source of brass wire
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 19:13:00 GMT
Organization: CAC
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Hi all,

I need to find a source of .030 to .035" brass, phosphor bronze, or beryllium 
copper wire, for making small tapered coiled springs.  Any leads would be 
appreciated.  Email me directly, as I don't always get to read this group.

Thanks,

Doug Ripka (dlr13@psu.edu)


From 75672.3424@CompuServe.COM Sun May  5 13:58:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Walter C. Windsor <75672.3424@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thin disk blades
Date: 30 Apr 1996 11:32:30 GMT
Organization: Synectics Group International, Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m4toe$roq$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>

I have a requirement for thin disk blades:

	1.  22" blades in an 11 guage thickness.  These must have
	    a 1 1/4" round hole in the center have a smooth 
	    edge.

	2.  16" blades in 12,14 & 16 guage thickness with no 
	    hole.

I will need several 1,000 per month and would like a price per
1,000 fob your factory.  One sample of each type of disk must be
made available.

Please direct further questions to 816-433-5375, or e-mail 
75672,3424@Compuserve.com.

Walter C. Windsor
SGI


From dansem@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dansem@aol.com (DanSem)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ManSon,DuoLathe, MonoLathe & Master Lathes
Date: 29 Apr 1996 22:37:21 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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After WWII these miniature power fed metal turning lathes [overall length
9" & resemble a Monarch 10EE] were manufactured first by Small Machines,
Inc., 2010 South Sepulveda Blvd, Los Angeles and then MasterSon
Engineering Co. at 1416 Westwood Blvd. &1072 Gayley Avenue & 5266 Alhambra
Avenue all located in Los Angeles. I would like to hear from anyone who
worked for either manufacturing company or has any information about these
companies or owns one of these lathes or has any "paper" referring to
them.
                                                   Daniel Semel -
DanSem@aol.com


From bgreveme@etcv01.eld.ford.com Sun May  5 13:58:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bryce Grevemeyer <bgreveme@etcv01.eld.ford.com>
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Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 15:33:40 -0700
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Franz Hespenheide wrote:
> <snip>

>  This scheme is known as a Ponzi
> scheme, is probably illegal, 

<snip>

One minor error in the above post was including the
word "probably".  

Make a hard copy of the original, and have a little
chat with your local US Postal Inspector.  They are 
very nice people.  You may call it "Ponzi" they will
probably just call it "Postal Fraud"  Basically they 
take a very dim view of this scheme.  (Did you notice
that you have to send the money through the US Mail?)

They will look up the folks on the
mailing list, as well as the author and have a little 
chat with them.  Like I say, they are very nice 
friendly folks, with a very clear way of explaining
that such things are just not done. So clear in fact,
that even the morons who try and pull this stuff
are able to understand it.     :-)

Cheers
  Bryce

-- 
====================================================================
| Bryce Grevemeyer        | Phone:    (313) 845-5589               |
| Ford ETC C370           | FAX:      (313) 845 3799               |
| 17000 Rotunda Drive     | EMail:    BGREVEME@etcv01.eld.ford.com |
| Dearborn, MI 48121-6010 | Internal Ford PROFS: IBMMAIL(I1483006) |
====================================================================


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Sun May  5 13:58:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Compressor
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 19:32:37 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
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Has anyone ever made a compressor which they are happy with?

If so, how did you do it?

I am interested in making one, I think...  Thanks for any help! 

   Jeff Trites


From tmanning@tamu.edu Sun May  5 13:58:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tmanning@tamu.edu (Timothy Manning)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:15:07 -0600
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In article <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <
wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com> writes:

> Your tool grinding technique (flat table, so the top of the toolbit 
> is some defined distance above the wheel centerline) is straight out 
> "The Design and Use of Cutting Tools," by Leo J. St.Clair.  It 
> works extremely well, as you've found.  Prof. Dennis Chaddock also 
> talks about it with regard to the Quorn, as I recall. 
>  
>  

I've noticed the Quorn in Model Engineer magazine and pondered how I would go 
about sending a self-addressed-stamped envelope to England (don't have any 
British stamps handy).  Do you know if the Quorn is available in the U.S. or 
just directly from England?  Also, who is Professor Dennis Chaddock?
Tim Manning
College Station, TX






From res@netreach.net Sun May  5 13:58:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Alan Reinhart <res@mail1.netreach.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q: AMMACO 7" Shaper price?
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:33:23 -0400
Organization: Reinhart Engineering Services
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Greetings!

Saw an AMMACO (?) 7" shaper at a flea
market. It looked used but in pretty good
shape. They were asking $700 for it - wondering
if this is a good price.

Also - could any old-timers out there comment on
what the working capacity of a 7" shaper would be?
Can you do much usefull work, or is it too small.

Regards -

=Alan R.
res@netreach.net


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun May  5 13:58:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:44:59 -0700
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
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WRitt wrote:
> 
> In article <31837781.41DE@dmauch.seanet.com>, Dan Mauch
> <dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com> writes:
> 
> >Yesterday a guy from Portland Or drove all the way up to Seattle to
> >have me set up his Sherline milling Machine. He bought the stepper
> >motors and stepper motor mounts from BILLG63745@aol.com and got the
> >three axis controller from me. The extrusions that Bill provided we
> >beautiful and the installation was quite simple and easy to accomplish.
> >I added the stepper motor controller and we ran the unit. It ran
> >beautifully. This guy had mounted a homemade DRP using digital vernieer
> >calibers. It was a joy to setup with the DRO. The bottom line is that I
> >was very impressed with the Sherline Mill and with Bill Griffins stepper
> >motors and mounts. If you have a Sherline or planning to buy one and you
> >want to convert it to CNC drop Bill or me a line. We can help you get up
> >and running.
> 
> What kind of  speed did you get? How did Bill's motor mounts bolt on? Did
> this setup use thrust bearings? TIA.
> 
> Bill RittnerI did not measure the speed but it looked like it was at least 12" per 
minute. Faster than the Sherline can cut. The extrusion are square 
tubing that match up to mating flanges a really nice setup. I forwarded 
your post to bill to get a better explantion but yes it does have thrust 
bearings.
Dan


From jwcercis@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Peel-Coat Plastic Dip Coating
Date: 30 Apr 1996 19:55:12 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hot Melt Strippable Plastic Coating Material For Sale
Evans Peel-Coat Type 1
>from  Evans Mfg. Co., Troy, MI

This is the type of dip coating that comes on new or resharpened cutting
tools to protect them.  Rated melting temperature is 340-350 F.  I have
found that a small, inexpensive deep fryer works well for melting.  I use
the stuff  to protect infrequently used taps, reamers, milling cutters,
etc. during storage. For better or worse, I got a good deal on enough to
last me about three lifetimes!  I will share two 50 pound boxes for $35
each plus UPS or I will consider breaking it down into smaller quantities
at $1 per pound plus shipping.  For reference, there are about 8 pounds
per gallon.

Please reply to jwcercis@aol.com




From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Sun May  5 13:58:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Arbors/mandrels
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 01:32:56 GMT
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Valerie Rutherford <rutherfordv@admin.gmcc.ab.ca> wrote:
>I have been searching suppliers/manufacturers looking for the following, 
>and have been unable to come up with anyone but resellers. If any one 
>might no where to source these it would sure help me out:
>
>Wanted mandrels to mount buffs on the end of an electric motor. Specs are 
>one end with either a 5/8 or 1/2 in female hole/ the other with 1/2" 
>thread either left or right hand. Sometimes referred to as a stub mandrel 
>


Valerie --

You might try using the online Thomas Register for your search.  It seems to be the 
same data as their books, but 'also' usually includes a description of each 
company's products, plus their telephone numbers, fax numbers and zip codes (and you 
can copy/paste!).  Online Thomas requires that you initially register to use their 
service, but usage is free.

They're at:

        http://www.thomasregister.com/finder/gate1.html

I tried searching for "mandrels" in the online Thomas and got the following summary 
of search results:

     Mandrels (99 companies)  
     Mandrels: Carbide & Carbide Tipped (17 companies)  
     Mandrels: Coil (4 companies)
     Mandrels: Dental (2 companies)
     Mandrels: Expanding (42 companies)   
     Mandrels: Filament Winding (1 company)
     Mandrels: Jewelers' (10 companies)
     Mandrels: Lathe (12 companies)  
     Mandrels: Precision (25 companies)   
     Mandrels: Saw (8 companies)  
     Mandrels: Taper (12 companies)

Taper mandrels might be a good category for you -- I looked at the companies in this 
category and some of them had product descriptions that looked to be of interest.

Good luck!

                        Frank



From stover@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stover@ix.netcom.com(Mark Stover )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metalworking for personal or business purposes
Date: 29 Apr 1996 19:34:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4m35kp$4h0@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: whx-ca5-04.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Apr 29  2:34:49 PM CDT 1996

Visit our homepage at http://www.vpm.com/conquest/ to learn more about
machinery that you can use to make crafts, fishing lures, jewelry, etc.
for personal or business purposes.


Mark Stover
Conquest Industries


From ghendley@nmsu.edu Sun May  5 13:58:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ghendley@nmsu.edu (GREGORY SCOTT HENDLEY)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Novice: which machine?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 05:50:20 GMT
Organization: New Mexico State University, Las Cruces, NM
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The extent of my knowledge on metals comes from a high school class 10 
years ago, this news group, and a few books that I have picked up at used 
book stores.  I picked up a copy of Home shop machinest and promptly sent 
out a check for a subscription, but what I am curious about is what 
machine to buy.  Smithy, Shoptask, Sherline (the lathe and the mill),........
So far, my metalworking tools are a drill that has been bolted to a desk 
(my lathe) and a Dremel tool (my mill).  Needless to say, the quality of 
work that I can turn out is limited (not bad, just limited) by size and 
tolerances.
Any advice, opinions, and experiences are welcome. 

Thanks in advance
	Gregory.
		ghendley@nmsu.edu



From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:58:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polishing/cleaning Stainless steel
Date: 29 Apr 1996 15:51:21 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4m3h59$6po@crl13.crl.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com

In article <4m1cln$agd@acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us>,
Eagan L Foster <elfoster@freenet.columbus.oh.us> wrote:
>
>My wife has a Reverware teapot (that has sentimental value).  This has a
>polished stainless steel finish on the top and side (copper on the bottom).
>
>After many years of use, it is quite discolored from the heating to
>boiling that is typical on an electric range.  She would like some advice
>on cleaning it up again, without marring the finish.
>
>Any ideas?
>Eagan

It is likely that the whole pot is copper and that it has been plated 
with chrome.  If this is the case, I think the only solution is to 
dechrome and replate.  If, in fact, the bottom part is copper and is 
welded to a stainless upper somehow, then the stainless can be polished 
using jewelers rouge to get rid of the color.  If you don't want to do 
the polishing yourself, your local electroplater can do the polishing for 
you for a price that is probably beyond the value of the pot.

JerryK


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 29 Apr 1996 21:22:06 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 32
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In article <4m3i6l$74v@crl13.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
writes:

>I would say 5000 for a retrofit is a lot for three stepper motors, a 
>driver box, and some public software.  On the other hand, evidently 
>Sherline can get the price and the retrofitters can get theirs from 
>people who don't want to take the time to DIY.  After all, if you can 
>write it off against taxes, who cares about the price?  If you are a home

>shop machinest/hobbiest, you do care.
>
>

$5000 is a  lot  for a retrofit, however, as Bill Griffin stated his has
paid for  itself  many times over. Therein lies the rub. The manufacturer
knows that the buyer  will make money with his product so  he can charge
much more for it. As you say a hobbiest cannot. The hobbiest,though, must
be aware that in order  to bring the price into his  range some
compromises must be made. This  does not mean,  as Bill G. put  it that
the machine is sub standard. It may  not  move at  150 in/min, but that is
not important  for a hobbiest, nor is it good  for a Sherline. 

As far as industry standard goes there really is  no such thing. There are
differences in the G and M codes from manufacturer to  manufacturer, and
as a machinist I  can tell you that they  are boring and tedious program
with. Conversational language is much faster and  simpler.

There are very good retrofits for the Sherline on the market for  $1200 to
$1500.There is no need to pay $5000 just to fill the pockets of a greedy
business.

Bill Rittner


From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Sun May  5 13:58:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 19:22:56 mountain
Organization: SmartNet Internet Services
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <rgrauman.33.002E3578@compusmart.ab.ca>
References: <3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net> <4lnq84$1gf@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4m2sgm$go0@news1.svc>
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In article <4m2sgm$go0@news1.svc> Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> writes:
>From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
>Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
>Date: 29 Apr 1996 16:59:02 GMT

LARGE SNIP

>Best regards,

>Mike Rehmus

>P.S.  NAMES was simply marvelous darlinks!

So tell all us poor saps who couldn't make it to Wyandot all about NAMES!!!!

				RJG


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sun May  5 13:58:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: 29 Apr 1996 19:37:15 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 31
Sender: greg Lewis
Expires: 5/30/96
Message-ID: <4m3ucr$pqu@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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In article <4m1hb8$l80@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>,
Alan D. Bartz <a.bartz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
>supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
>prices.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Alan


Without question, MSC Industrial Supply Co.; 800-645-7270. Their
3469-page, 10-pound catalog has it all, they deliver to me in Calif.
>from  New York in 48 hours, with one exception everything I've asked
for has been in stock, and they actually want your business! Example:
I faxed them an order. Two hours later, a nice lady called to say that
a 65-cent item on the list wasn't available, and would I be able to
use the next grade up, at $1.25? How many other companies would call a
customer for something like that?

I've tried a half-dozen mail order suppliers as well as a local
company and have decided that MSC will be my first choice for all my
tooling and supply needs.

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From t.c@admin.umass.edu Sun May  5 13:58:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!caen!news.umass.edu!nic.umass.edu!usenet
From: t.c@admin.umass.edu (Tom Caron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lindsay Publications WEB Site?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 22:04:55 GMT
Organization: Transit Services UMass
Lines: 5
Distribution: world
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Is there a web site for Lindsay Publications ?

TC
t.c@admin.umass.edu



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sun May  5 13:58:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 17:21:46 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <ginger.447.01ACD2EF@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <1996Apr30.021358.25676@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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Ill have to add my $.02 as well.

It was indeed fun to see the faces behind some of these e-mail names we use. 

I enjoyed doing the Internet talk, and found a surprising interest in the net. 

There were registered exhibitors from 28 states, and at least one, Eric 
Whittle from England. Eric had his V-8 again, but didnt run it.

I talked to spectators form lots of states, so people are really traveling to 
see this show.

To me, the most amazing model this year was Ron Colonas 1/8 scale Bently BR2. 
Now the 1/4 scale is a masterpiece of work, but to cut that in half was 
amazing. Although he didnt run it at the show, his son told me he had only 
finished it days before the show, had run it a few times, but had some coil 
problems and didnt want to run it in public until he had it in great shape. 
This was an amazing piece of work.

Lee Root brought his Chevy V-8 again, and ran it frequently. a neat sound  
when he reved it up.

I went with 3 other fellows. We talked eninges for 13 hours driving out on 
Thursday, engines for 3 days of show, and another 13 hours driving home. You 
would think with 3 full days to look you would see everything, but as we 
talked it was frequently ' did you see the ....' and then realizing you had 
missed something great.

The only minor problem is that several exhibitors started to pack up and left 
just after noon on sunday.  I talked to several people who came by on Sunday 
to see the show and were dissappointed that some tables had been cleaned off 
before they got there. Not quite fair to the paying public.

NAMES 97 will be april 26,27. 
reserve that date NOW!

Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From blake@ncweb.com Sun May  5 13:58:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rivet sources
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 00:36:05 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <blake-0105960036520001@206.84.2.69>
References: <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-20.ncweb.com

In article <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net>, Bob Hurley
<bhurley@washington.xtn.net> wrote:

$ Can anyone help me find an economical source for rivits,
$ especially soft iron round head of 1/8 to 3/16 dia?
$ 
$ I'm trying to learn to build medieval armor.
$ 
$ Thanks,
$ Bob

Any farm store or tractor dealer will have them.  They are used to attach
the knife sections to a sicyle bar or haybine.  Very resonable too.
Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From jones@San-Jose.ate.slb.com Sun May  5 13:58:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.omnes.net!news.sinet.slb.com!news.San-Jose.ate.slb.com!jones
From: jones@San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Clark Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bed reconditioning
Date: 30 Apr 1996 00:39:25 GMT
Organization: Schlumberger ATE, Tempe, AZ
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4m3nft$m8j@k9.San-Jose.ate.slb.com>
References: <31750B90.67FD@bdc.cirrus.com> <4l66ph$cpj@news-e2c.gnn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elbert.san-jose.ate.slb.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

Sorry, folks, but I can't resist with a subject like "bed reconditioning":
The best "bed reconditioning" I've seen was a couple of years ago when
the judge granted my divorce!  :-)  :-)  :-)

						Clark

--
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed above are mine and not those of Schlumberger
because they are NOT covered by the patent agreement!

Phone: (602) 345-3638        		Internet: jones@San-Jose.ate.slb.com
Packet:(not currently available) RF: KI7TU   ICBM: 33 20' 44"N   111 53' 47"W
Snail: Clark Jones, Schlumberger Technologies, 7855 S. River Pkwy #116, Tempe,
       AZ  85284-1825


From jsp@u.washington.edu Sun May  5 13:58:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.u.washington.edu!saul7.u.washington.edu!jsp
From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 18:38:31 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960430183544.9891A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>
References: <4m0abm$mbm@acme.sb.west.net>
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Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
NNTP-Posting-User: jsp
To: Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>
In-Reply-To: <4m0abm$mbm@acme.sb.west.net>

You might try a rubber stamp and acid etch ink.  It isn't perfect, but it
is cheap.  Sorry I don't have any names, but if you are interested I can
get a manufacturer's name.
				Cheers,



From bsweeney@HiWAAY.net Sun May  5 13:58:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bsweeney@HiWAAY.net (Bob Sweeney)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 23:23:26 -0600
Organization: Bob's World
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Message-ID: <bsweeney-3004962323260001@max6-172.hiwaay.net>
References: <4lunb1$msk@csugrad.cs.vt.edu> <4lv3jd$i7c@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4m01bv$k1g@dfw-ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3185CE5A.46E5@holonet.net>
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In article <3185CE5A.46E5@holonet.net>, vivien@holonet.net wrote:

<There's nothing more rude than someone who cross-posts their ads or off 
<topic twaddle to dozens of newsgroups.
<
<The next worst thing is the follow-ups that are also cross-posted. I 
<know it's so tempting to tell the originator how you feel about them, 
<but you're contributing to the problem and legitimizing what they've 
<done. In many cases, I'm sure the originators are delighted to see their 
<ads re-posted over and over. And the crazies are always delighted when 
<someone notices them. But you'll notice that many of them hide their 
<e-mail address which means they know what they're doing is wrong and 
<they don't want to dialog ... they want us as a captive audience.
<
<As hard as it is, the best way to handle these rude people is to ignore 
<them completely. If you can figure out their e-mail address, complain to 
<their postmaster! That ALWAYS makes me feel better!
<
<Renee Vivien
<breaking her own rule about cross-posting by posting this....

Physician, euthanize thyself.

-- 
Bob Sweeney 
home--bsweeney@HiWAAY.net
office--bsweeney@unanov.una.edu

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves:  How much clean air do we 
need?" -- Lee Iacocca, on Detroit's resistance to tougher auto 
emission standards


From redbone1@popd.ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Kovar <redbone1@popd.ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 18:00:20 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <31856624.3C49@popd.ix.netcom.com>
References: <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; I)

John Bryant wrote:
> 
> The 6" four-jaw chuck on my Standard Modern lathe is far too clumsy for
> fine work, and for some time now I've been considering obtaining a
> smaller four-jaw chuck for gripping smaller parts.  Now I've seen what
> appears to be the answer - KBC is advertising a 3" four-jaw chuck (by
> Sherline) directly mounted on a Morse 4 taper (which matches my
> spindle).  Also it's currently on special at 10% off.  I'm a bit
> reluctant, however, to splash out $220 on a part that I've never seen
> and which may not turn out to be a good idea.
> 
> Could anybody comment on the part itself (quality?) and whether using
> a taper mounted chuck is or is not a very good idea?  As an alternative
> I could, of course, always mount a small four-jaw chuck on a backplate,
> but small four-jaw chucks seem hard to come by, and D1-3 back plates
> are not cheap.
> 
>            Thanks - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)  
   It would seem that doing any turning would loosen the chuck from the 
spindle unless held in by a draw bar. Of course, I could be mistaken. I 
like to have any kind of a taper mounting that I am putting side forces 
on to be held securely.
                          Jim


From jghasler@win.bright.net Sun May  5 13:58:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.bright.net!news.win.bright.net!hasler!usenet
From: jghasler@win.bright.net (John Hasler)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Followup-To: junk
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 20:33:20 GMT
Organization: Dancing Horse Hill
Lines: 14
Sender: root@hasler.gt.org
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	<4m01bv$k1g@dfw-ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3185CE5A.46E5@holonet.net>
Reply-To: jghasler@win.bright.net (John Hasler)
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In-Reply-To: Renee Vivien's message of Tue, 30 Apr 1996 01:24:58 -0700
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.backcountry:120908 rec.bicycles.marketplace:66113 rec.bicycles.misc:53957 rec.bicycles.racing:55508 rec.bicycles.rides:23215 rec.bicycles.soc:27926 rec.bicycles.tech:78631 rec.birds:36703 rec.boats:104146 rec.boats.paddle:45085 rec.climbing:81775 rec.collecting:80767 rec.crafts.brewing:87953 rec.crafts.metalworking:27649 rec.crafts.misc:20728 rec.equestrian:130871 rec.folk-dancing:19411 rec.food.cooking:241838 rec.food.drink:30755 rec.food.historic:7900

Renee Vivien writes:
> The next worst thing is the follow-ups that are also cross-posted.
> ...
> breaking her own rule about cross-posting by posting this....

Simple solution:
Followup-To: junk
-- 


John Hasler		   This posting is in the public domain.
jghasler@win.bright.net	   Do with it what you will.
Dancing Horse Hill	   Make money from it if you can; I don't mind.
Elmwood, Wisconsin


From neidorff@uicc.com Sun May  5 13:58:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!shore!mv!chillon!neidorff
From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Looking for chuck key - B&D 0.208" Pilot
Message-ID: <DqpEJ4.DyJ@uicc.com>
Sender: news@uicc.com (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: elbrus.uicc.com
Organization: Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 01:52:16 GMT
Lines: 16

I have two Black&Decker hand electric drills.  Neither has a chuck
key.  The catalogs I have don't list this size chuck key.  Do you
know where I can buy a chuck key with a pilot diameter of 0.209"?
This is definitely not a standard Jacobs size.

I saw this key in an older Wholesale Tool catalog, and ordered it.
However, they sent me a Jacobs key instead, and claimed that they 
never had any of the B&D.  That has been my experience with Wholesale
Tool on a few occasions (catalog or shipment errors), but not often 
enough to get me upset.

Thank you for your assistance!
--
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564


From mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu Sun May  5 13:58:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!mozz.unh.edu!hopper.unh.edu!mbarocas
From: mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu (Michael L Barocas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Antique-ish bellows?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 02:38:18 GMT
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Lines: 18
Sender: mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu
Message-ID: <4m3ueq$5jc@mozz.unh.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hopper.unh.edu



   'Allo dere...


  Umm..lesse.  A friend of mine and I were thinking about becoming 
amateur metalworkers just for the hell of it....However, we kinda want to 
do it "the old-fashioned way" for the most part.  Does anyone have or 
know where I can get an old bellows?


                              Thankya,

                                   Michael

                           mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu




From res@netreach.net Sun May  5 13:58:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news1.erols.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news3.agis.net!agis!newshost.cyberramp.net!news.cstone.net!news1.digex.net!tahiti.netreach.net!usenet
From: Alan Reinhart <res@mail1.netreach.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon Spare Parts
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:29:52 -0400
Organization: Reinhart Engineering Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <318526C0.1E03@mail1.netreach.net>
References: <4m01q7$f6j@kaleka.seanet.com>
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To: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>

Bob Bickers wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine just bought a Sheldon 12X36 lathe Ser.#KRTQ2416. Can anyone
> point me in the right direction to obtain an owners/ operator manual. Also
> does Sheldon still exist, who bought them? Any good parts source, not that it
> needs anything as its seen little use. Thanks, Bob.

Here is an address and telno from a few years back.
Have a 10" Sheldon. BE READY FOR STICKER SHOCK if 
you call for prices!  :-(  They wanted $400 (!!!) for a new bull
gear, and $150 for a lousy lighthouse type tool holder. I did
cough up $100 for new half nuts, the rest I did myself.

National Acme Co
Sheldon Machine Div
PO Box 949
Fremont, Ohio, 43420
419-334-8971

Regards and best luck

=Alan R.


From rogerm@fc.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplntx!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!rogerm
From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe for air tank?
Date: 29 Apr 1996 18:01:50 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4m306e$fqh@fcnews.fc.hp.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1.4]

Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com) wrote:
: What do you think of the idea of using a long 4" or 6" diameter
: steel pipe as an air tank?  

In making any pressure vessel always hydrostatic test it before using it.
Hydrostatic testing is no big mystery, just fill the container completely 
full of liquid, attach a gauge and hand hydraulic pump and apply at least
1.5 times the operating pressure. If it is going to fail. it will only spurt
a little liquid rather than spreading shrapnel all over the place. Water is
the most common liquid to test with, though oil has been known to be used in
certain applications also. When filling the container, it must be completely
full with no air space inside. Sometimes the test can be done without a
pump by heating the container after filling it with a small torch to 
increase the pressure by expanding the liquid thermaly. Care needs to be
used however so you don't get too carried away with the pressure as when
doing this the pressure can increase rapidly.
				
				Roger Mitchell
				VP and Master Mechanic
				Fort Collins Municipal Railway
				Fort Collins, Colorado



From jimd@cv.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplntx!hplabs!hp-pcd!hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com!jimd
From: jimd@cv.hp.com (Jim Donnelly)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES
Date: 30 Apr 1996 22:56:52 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Corvallis Site
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4m65rk$687@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com>
References: <1996Apr30.021358.25676@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Just to follow up a little - I'm a newbie, and found the show to be
inspirational.  The show was very well organized, and all the people I
met were wonderful.  It was nice to be able to ask beginner-level
questions and get a helpful answer without being made to feel stupid.
Perhaps the best part for me was a gentleman showing his engines who
spent about 45 minutes Sunday afternoon explaining different techniques.
He built a half-dozen of the designs from Elmer's Engines (a fine book),
and I came away inspired with the "now I can do that" feeling.

The range of models on display was mind-numbing - worth every effort to
see.  Favorites for me included an eight-day clock, radial aircraft
engines, and a tiny V-8 engine that roared like the real thing.

Several vendors mentioned surprise at the rate of sales - a good sign
for the hobby.  I brought home a very useful handful of brochures and
business cards (my town doesn't have a rich supply of super-tiny machine
screws).

Hats off to the organizers - a job well done.

Jim Donnelly
Hewlett-Packard
jimd@cv.hp.com


From janders@oro.net Sun May  5 13:58:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!lll-winken.llnl.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: 30 Apr 1996 20:20:36 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <4m5smk$jc@hg.oro.net>
References: <4m3ucr$pqu@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janders.oro.net
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

>   gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) writes:
>  In article <4m1hb8$l80@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>,
>  Alan D. Bartz <a.bartz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>  >Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
>  >supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
>  >prices.
>  >
>  >Thanks.
>  >
>  >Alan
>  
>  
>  Without question, MSC Industrial Supply Co.; 800-645-7270. Their
>  3469-page, 10-pound catalog has it all, they deliver to me in Calif.
>  from New York in 48 hours, with one exception everything I've asked
>  for has been in stock, and they actually want your business! Example:
>  I faxed them an order. Two hours later, a nice lady called to say that
>  a 65-cent item on the list wasn't available, and would I be able to
>  use the next grade up, at $1.25? How many other companies would call a
>  customer for something like that?
>  
>  I've tried a half-dozen mail order suppliers as well as a local
>  company and have decided that MSC will be my first choice for all my
>  tooling and supply needs.
>  
>  ___________________________________________________________________
>  Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>  Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
>  Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
>       and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
>  CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010
>  
>  
>>>>
Greg,

I can second your experience with MSC. I ordered a 1" die handle for work. 
I ordered the USA made, at nearly $14, over the $4 import. It came in looking
like a total piece of crap. Well machined, but the finish just looked terrible, more 
like Enco's bottom of the line. I filled out the customer satisfaction card and 
described my dissapointment.

Two days later, I get a call from MSC. They'd already called Greenfield, the mfg, 
to notify them of the complaint, and to ask if indeed, it really was made in the 
USA. (it was)  She offered to send a voucher to return it, but I'd already started
buffing it out. So, she offered us a discount on our next order.

I was told that each and every one of those Customer Response cards is 
personally read by the president of MSC.
A class outfit!

 Jon 



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:58:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades
Date: 1 May 1996 04:00:56 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4m6nlo$djb@news1.svc>
References: <4leaim$q9a@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Many tool suppliers will build blades to order.

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From janders@oro.net Sun May  5 13:58:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!news.sol.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon Spare Parts
Date: 30 Apr 1996 20:24:05 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Alan,

You want sticker shock? Try $1800 for a new crossfeed screw and bronze nut
for my DoAll 6x12 surface grinder!  I found an outfit that will one-off the screw
to .001/foot accuracy for $165, and I'm going to cast new threads in the old nut
with Moglice, a castable bearing polymer.

Nothing like sticker shock to get the creative juices flowing!

 Jon



From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Sun May  5 13:58:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!bert.compusmart.ab.ca!remote188.compusmart.ab.ca!rgrauman
From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 19:06:06 mountain
Organization: SmartNet Internet Services
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <rgrauman.32.001EDE55@compusmart.ab.ca>
References: <4ljh8q$afj@news.bellglobal.com> <rgrauman.31.00707E14@compusmart.ab.ca> <4m2djj$2g9@news.mhv.net>
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In article <4m2djj$2g9@news.mhv.net> Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com> writes:
>From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
>Subject: Re: forming sheet aluminum
>Date: 29 Apr 1996 12:44:35 GMT

>rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman) wrote:
>>...My friend Bob the welder is welding up the frames for two, 
>>(one for me, one for him) and I am machining the wheels.  
>>...

> I recently had the opportunity to try out several types of wheeling
>machines, both homemade and commercially manufactured. In both cases,
>the best operation was obtained from machines with *really* rigid frames. 
>One design that I saw repeated several times was to construct the frame
>out of box section steel with braces, and then sheathe both sides of 
>the frame in 1/4" steel plate cut to a "C" shape. Polish the wheels 
>to a mirror shine! Are you putting the adjusting wheel on the top 
>or bottom? I found a bottom (foot operated) adjustment much easier to use.


>                        -BK
We understand the requirement for a rigid frame.  The author of the plans we 
are using, has, we believe, designed a rigid frame.  We are adding material to 
make it stronger.  I have polished the wheels to a mirror finish.  Brings out 
the magpie in every one that looks at them, so I think they're polished 
enough.  The adjustment is on the bottom wheel, and we have made it with 
six spokes, and you could probably adjust it with you knee, I think, maybe.
Thanks for your remarks.  They are most helpful.

				RJG


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: 1 May 1996 00:45:21 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <3186A5FB.1E27@dmauch.seanet.com>, Dan Mauch
<dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com> writes:

>I did not measure the speed but it looked like it was at least 12" per 
>minute. Faster than the Sherline can cut. The extrusion are square 
>tubing that match up to mating flanges a really nice setup. I forwarded 
>your post to bill to get a better explantion but yes it does have thrust 
>bearings.
>Dan

Thanks Dan.
Bill


From cutler@email.oit.unc Sun May  5 13:58:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: Douglas Cutler <cutler@email.oit.unc>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 07:59:06 -0700
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <31877C3A.E24@email.oit.unc>
References: <4l8i4a$91a@news1.mtholyoke.edu> <4lm8fu$jet@news.inc.net> <nC518DC86@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk> <darylb-3004961326110001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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darylb wrote:
 
> Do they have an on-line web page?
> Yes:
   
    http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbs


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun May  5 13:58:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 1 May 1996 12:53:37 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4m7msh$dn3@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG> <4m3q5e$pi7@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
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>
>I swore off Enco completely.  Their prices are always tempting but I can't
>afford to save that kind of money. 
>

Reminds me of a sign I saw in a small gun shop once:  
 
         "Only rich people can afford poor quality."





From SLogan@gnn.com Sun May  5 13:58:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES
Date: 1 May 1996 11:40:11 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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In article <ginger.447.01ACD2EF@pcm.ultranet.com>, From 
ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger), the following was written:
> It was indeed fun to see the faces behind some of these e-mail names 
> we use.

I'll second that!  It was real great to finally meet you, Russ, and
several others who I feel like I've gotten to know over the last few
months.  I'm very sorry that I missed the seminar you put on, but just
wait till NAMES '97!

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 1 May 1996 02:05:45 -0400
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In article <4m5eln$hi9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, billg63475@aol.com
(BILLG63475) writes:

>Do you have any telephone numbers and or addresses for these vendors. I
>would be interested in seeing what they are offering.
>
I some very vague literature from one company, however I don't have it at
this location. They use a software application that I have not heard of.
It is called MINC. Are you familiar  with it?

>One of the things that I failed to point out in my earlier message was
>that I have 2 of these $5,000.00 retrofit kits and both are using the
AhHa
>software (CNC Pro) one of the controllers is also from AhHa the other was
>custom built and is used on an older Light Machine TMC-1000 with ball
>screws. I use BobCAD CAM to create tool paths from drawings created
mostly
>in Cad Key and Pro E. I have also found BobCAD to be a capable basic
>drawing program as well.

I'm  familiar with AhHa products. They  are excellent, but a bit overkill
for the Sherline. I have not used  BobCAD, but hear  very good things
about it. At $995 it is out of  the range of the average home shop
machinist. There  are many good  CAD pgms at much less. I just bought
AutoSketch for $99.
>
>I have to agree that that average hobbiest probably cant justify this
cost
>for a hobby but I am not aware of any lower priced retrofits that are
>complete and professional.
>
It  depends  on what you mean by professional.

>I know that you can buy a 3 axis driver board from Dan Mauch at
>Camtronics, Either have him build it or build it yourself and find a
>suitable power supply and a cabinet to house it in. Use the Dan CAD CAm
>Software which is basically free ($10.00 to $15.00). Surplus or new
motors
>and suitable motor mouns are also needed. I feel that you could get a
>system like this up and runing for probably less than the cost of the
>Sherline Deluxe Mill. I found the Dan Cad Cam stuff to be cumbersome and
>not very user friendly but functional which would probably be fine for
the
>hobbiest. I have found that 50 Oz In motors will work on all 3 axis, but
a
>120 oz in motor on Z would be more desirable.
>
>Bill Griffin
>
>

I've built Dan's R/L controller and have  the  board and  info for his
chopper drive.  your comments on DanCadCam are right on the money. The
advantage with this application for the hobbiest, besides  it's price, is
the ability to write part programs in ASCII on any word processor. I  have
found that most hobbiests just don't  want to deal with G-code
programming, I'm really sick of it myself. That is  why I'm looking  for a
conversational language software package. I used  to  run a Hurco milling
machine department and fell in  love  with that type of programming. It 
is much easier and faster. Do you know of  any frontend packages like
this?

Bill Rittner

P.S. I have  the  Light Machines catalog and  video.  Very impressive, but
again, the price is in  the range of some very good used CNC machines that
will do much more.


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CCMC Sherline Mill
Date: 1 May 1996 02:01:45 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4m3qfm$l5q@acme.sb.west.net>, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
writes:

>--I think maybe what irks people about the prices of these 
>retrofits is that some "scaling" would seem to be in order. I mean, you
can 
>get a Fanuc control for just 2x or 3x the price of the $5k Sherline price

>that would drive about 5 hp worth of stepper motors, i.e. you could do
some 
>serious hogging at that point... What's needed is something with a little

>more *oomph* than those mickey-mouse little motors for the $5k that 
>they're socking you... Good value for money, in other words... 

Exactly Ed. Instead of paying 5k for a  retrofitted Sherline (miniature)
why not go  for 6k and buy a used Boss Bridgeport. A lot  more bang  for
your  buck. You can retrofit a kneemill for  5k. Why buy a  little
Sherline?  I'm not  knocking the Sherline machine. I own 1 and am buying
another. They are great little machines for what they were designed for.
But, 5k  for a machine with an envelope of 9" X 5" X 6.5" is  ludicrous, 
even if you are working on miniature parts, when it can be done very
nicely for  less than half of that. Just my opinion based on 30+ years of
machining.

Bill Rittner


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Novice: which machine?
Date: 1 May 1996 02:04:22 -0400
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In article <4m49ms$m5a@bubba.NMSU.Edu>, ghendley@nmsu.edu (GREGORY SCOTT
HENDLEY) writes:

>The extent of my knowledge on metals comes from a high school class 10 
>years ago, this news group, and a few books that I have picked up at used

>book stores.  I picked up a copy of Home shop machinest and promptly sent

>out a check for a subscription, but what I am curious about is what 
>machine to buy.  Smithy, Shoptask, Sherline (the lathe and the
mill),........
>So far, my metalworking tools are a drill that has been bolted to a desk 
>(my lathe) and a Dremel tool (my mill).  Needless to say, the quality of 
>work that I can turn out is limited (not bad, just limited) by size and 
>tolerances.
>Any advice, opinions, and experiences are welcome. 
>
>Thanks in advance
>	Gregory.

What you buy depends on what size parts you want to machine.  You  can't
machine Harley Davidson  engine parts on a Sherline, and you don't want to
 machine 1/25 scale engine valve covers on a kneemill, believe me  you 
don't. Decide what you want to machine  and select a machine big enough to
do the job.

Bill Rittner


From klaas@uniface.nl Sun May  5 13:58:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: 1 May 1996 09:00:35 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Put 9 parts of fine silver with one part of a crushed small amorphous
solar panel of a broken solar penlite battery charger and melted it together
in an open flame using an oxypropane torch, heating it to 1450 C allowing the
Si to melt too. I melted it together on a piece of chamotte.
The flame should be *reducing* otherwise the Si oxidizes easily.
I diluted this brittle alloy with 9 parts of fine silver in a graphite
crucible in a propane-air furnace until 1000 C and I poured it into an L-shaped
iron bar.
The casting I rolled to sheet of 0.5 mm thich with three intermediate 
annealings. No cracks occurred during rolling or quenching and it's 
*firescale-free*.
When you have access to a vacuum of inert gas furnace which reaches 1450 C
you'ld rather use that, but I don't have such exotic and $$$ equipment.
Commercial alloys are normally made on that basis.

Klaas

BTW, aren't you nicknamed as a relative of Bill Gates (I am a software engineer
in daily life developing software for Bill's Windows too) ?



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun May  5 13:58:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stripped Gear Fix
Date: 29 Apr 1996 21:18:10 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
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Some years back a machinist friend described a quick, temporary fix for stripped 
gears, Yesterday, I was presented with a golden opportunity to try it out when I ran 
the carriage of my Atlas 12 inch into the headstock and stripped a tooth from one of 
the gears (yeah--it was a stupid mistake).

The fix is this: (1.) file the stump of the broken tooth flat; (2.) pick a screw 
size about as large in diameter as the tooth is wide at its base; (3.)along the line 
where the tooth was, drill and tap as many holes as needed to provide a good 
representation of the missing tooth (in my case only two holes were needed); (4.) 
thread set screws into the holes, loctite them in place, and then file them to an 
approximate profile of the tooth. This all goes quickly since the measurements are 
pretty much by eye.


I installed the repaired gear and went ahead with the lathe job. The gear worked 
fine. After about three hours of turning, I finished the job, inspected the gear and 
could see no problems. Although I consider this to be a temporary fix and have 
ordered a replacement, I will continue to use the lathe while waiting on the 
replacement.

Roger Weppelman



From cutler@email.oit.unc Sun May  5 13:58:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: Douglas Cutler <cutler@email.oit.unc>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Kew Bridge Museum
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 11:45:45 -0700
Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3187B159.40FF@email.oit.unc>
References: <4l8i4a$91a@news1.mtholyoke.edu> <4lm8fu$jet@news.inc.net> <nC518DC86@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk> <darylb-3004961326110001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <31877C3A.E24@email.oit.unc>
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Douglas Cutler wrote:
> 
> darylb wrote:
> 
> > Do they have an on-line web page?
> > Yes:
> 
>     http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbs

 Sorry the correct URL is:

      http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbsm/


From john@huncote.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:58:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John B <john@huncote.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 19:58:17 +0100
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In article <4m2avg$d9@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
writes
>As a hobby silversmith I have strong problems with the polishing of sterling
>silver. This is due to the reddish firescale which is hard to remove.
>So the alternative is another alloy. Pure silver is no option as it is too
>soft.
>Looking in the Degussa "Handbuch der Edelmetalle" (1967) (in German) I saw some
>phase diagrams of which Ag-Si was the best (99% Ag, 1% Si) I made a sample
>(pure Si alloy grade (99%) is hard to obtain) which turned out to be good:
>easy to roll, etc. But the Si is hard to obtain.
>Are there other elements suitable for alloying with silver ?
>Tin is no option as it does not harden it. Zinc makes it too brittle and
>oxidizes too easy.
>
>Can somebody help me ?
>
>Klaas
>
I am intrigued by the colour of your firescale. It is usually grey.
However. There are a number of ways to remove it or avoid it. You could
use Brittania grade silver which is of a higher quality than sterling
and does not oxidise so easily. Or pickle out the firestain with ten
percent sulfuric acid. 
-- 
John B


From brnzcast@sprynet.com Sun May  5 13:58:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Winston W. Harness" <brnzcast@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Webpage update
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:11:17 -0700
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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I just uploaded an update to my "metalcasting hobby-help" website.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
Mainly additions to the "Networking" list and the "Weblinks" list.

Winston
*****
Winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
BrnzCaster@aol.com (or) 73754.3177@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
*****


From jesw@mitre.org Sun May  5 13:58:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!world!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for chuck key - B&D 0.208" Pilot
Date: 1 May 1996 12:23:23 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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> I have two Black&Decker hand electric drills... Do you know where I can
buy a chuck key with a pilot diameter of 0.209"?

   I just checked MSC and McMaster-Carr -- no luck.  They no longer list
the pilot diameter.  
   0.209" is just a bit under 7/32".  Could you get the next smaller size
key to work by sleeving the pilot with hobby-store brass tubing?


From wwebster@nortel.ca Sun May  5 13:58:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Radiator stop-cock thread
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 08:55:17 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

We've been talking about all sorts of weird thread pitches, metric, unc,
unf, coke bottles, etc.

So here's a new one.

Why is the thread on a radiator stop-cock left handed?
Is it a standard thread pitch?

Anybody know the history on this one?

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From dzr10@eng.amdahl.com Sun May  5 13:58:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave Ruigh <dzr10@eng.amdahl.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
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Newton E Mack wrote:
> 
> Mike DeMetz (MDemetz@gnn.com) wrote:
> : There is a book from England by a Mister Schreckling on building
> : a turbine engine for R/C. A lot of hobbyist over there are building them.
> 
> Where is this book available--is there a reseller in the US or where is
> it originally published in England?  If anyone can point me toward this
> it would be highly appreciated . .
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Eliot

Traplet has a website: http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet.
They have ordering info on both the Schreckling and Kamps
turbine-building books. You may find them at some larger hobby
stores, though here in the SF bay area I checked virtually 
all the major hobby shops with no luck (2-3 months ago). 

Dave


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun May  5 13:58:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: 1 May 1996 13:53:02 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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In article <4m5smk$jc@hg.oro.net> janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson) writes:
[snip]
>>  I've tried a half-dozen mail order suppliers as well as a local
>>  company and have decided that MSC will be my first choice for all my
>>  tooling and supply needs.
>>  
>>  ___________________________________________________________________
>>  Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>Greg,
>
[snip]
>I was told that each and every one of those Customer Response cards is 
>personally read by the president of MSC.
>A class outfit!

I finally got around to calling MSC the other day to get their catalog.
I think I called them around 3 in the afternoon.  The NEXT DAY that
huge catalog landed on my door step (with a thud) and I spent most of 
my free time paging through it.  Truly amazing.

If you don't have their catalog, call for one.  It's not something to miss.


--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Sun May  5 13:58:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ed510
From: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 1 May 1996 14:05:28 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
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Message-ID: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Reply-To: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
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I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
acid?

Regards, Chet


From babydeer@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babydeer@ix.netcom.com(bambi)
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 1 May 1996 06:04:10 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <31853EBE.D5@infosphere.com> T-Bone <twalker@infosphere.com> writes:

>
>Scott Taylor wrote:
>[deleted]
>> Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable
>> business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the
modules
>> or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and
will
>> ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable
companies
>> in the area where the products have been sent. This includes
>> names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines alot
of
>> people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their
meters, they
>> can see alot more than you think.
>
>so, uh, what's your point ? 
>
>is it illegal to own one of these boxes ?
>
>TimW

to own it no.  to hook it up to receive free cable yes.  in some states
you can receive up to a 5,000.00 fine for theft of cable service. 
these guys are out to make a fast buck off people who want cable but
either can't afford it or don't want to pay for it.

remember rule 1:  if it sounds too good to be true it usually is.


From rfra@unirsvl.com Sun May  5 13:58:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!eanews1!rsvl_ns!unirsvl!news
From: Bob Frazier <rfra@unirsvl.com>
Subject: Barnes lathe advice needed
Sender: news@unirsvl.rsvl.unisys.com (News Administration)
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Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 16:46:31 GMT
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I have an opportunity to buy an antique lathe. I want to do some
basic gunsmithing and other things as they come up. This is the least
expensive real lathe I have found, about $400. It appears to have been
converted to electric from some other power, maybe steam or water? At any
rate it has a series of wood pulleys to adjust speed and an electric 
motor (110) to drive it. Patent date is 1887, and it comes with a steady 
rest, rocker tool post, and a small face plate. The name Barnes is not 
familiar to me, but then I'm not nearly as old as this machine! The ways
appear somewhat chipped and dinged up, as it has not been idle all this 
time. I'm not familiar with scraping or making new bearings, but this 
seems a good time to learn. Any thoughts about this would be 
appreciated! It would fit in with my Buffalo Forge drill press of the 
same vintage!


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:58:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Message-ID: <1996May1.091003.22969@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 1 May 96 09:10:03 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4ll7sg$998@nic.wat.hookup.net> <4lnvqo$duv@news-e2b.gnn.com>
 <4m45k6$5f6@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>
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In article <4m45k6$5f6@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>, eliot@mit.edu (Newton E Mack) writes:
|>Mike DeMetz (MDemetz@gnn.com) wrote:
|>: There is a book from England by a Mister Schreckling on building
|>: a turbine engine for R/C. A lot of hobbyist over there are building them.
|>
|>Where is this book available--is there a reseller in the US or where is
|>it originally published in England?  If anyone can point me toward this
|>it would be highly appreciated . . 

>From  previous posts --

"Gas Turbine Engines for Model Aircraft"
by Kurt Schreckling

Traplet Publications Ltd
Traplet House
Severn Drive
Upton-Upon-Severn
Worcestershire
WR8 0JL
England
E-Mail: Traplet@Dial.Pipex.Com
+44 1684 594505
Price: 14.96 UK pounds

TPL USA
P.O. Box 167
Florham Park, NJ 07932
(no known phone number)

SULPHUR SPRINGS STEAM MODELS LTD; P.O. BOX 6165; CHESTERFIELD, MO. 63006-6165.
You can see their ad in the Feb/Mar '96 issue of "Strictly I.C."


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:58:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Novice: which machine?
Message-ID: <1996May1.092239.22970@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 1 May 96 09:22:39 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4m49ms$m5a@bubba.NMSU.Edu>, ghendley@nmsu.edu (GREGORY SCOTT HENDLEY) writes:
|>The extent of my knowledge on metals comes from a high school class 10 
|>years ago, this news group, and a few books that I have picked up at used 
|>book stores.  I picked up a copy of Home shop machinest and promptly sent 
|>out a check for a subscription, but what I am curious about is what 
|>machine to buy.  Smithy, Shoptask, Sherline (the lathe and the mill),........
|>So far, my metalworking tools are a drill that has been bolted to a desk 
|>(my lathe) and a Dremel tool (my mill).  Needless to say, the quality of 
|>work that I can turn out is limited (not bad, just limited) by size and 
|>tolerances.
|>Any advice, opinions, and experiences are welcome. 


This of course depends on the size/type of work you want to do, but around
here there is almost universal praize for Sherline equipment.  You just
about can't go wrong.  However, do note a few things about accessories:

  1.  The lathe comes with enough accessories (chucks, toolholder, etc) to
      get started right out of the box.  The mill is "plain" and comes with
      no extras.
  2.  You will eventually want to get nearly every add-on they make
      (I speak from experience).

Also, get a decent drill press.

Read the FAQ for this newsgroup, about which I will be posting more,
later today.

Jim


From ece00@mfg.amdahl.com Sun May  5 13:58:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ece00@mfg.amdahl.com (Earl C Edgerton)
Subject: Re: Compressor
Message-ID: <DqqHrv.7B9@ccc.amdahl.com>
Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (Usenet Administration)
Reply-To: ece00@mfg.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA
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Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 15:59:55 GMT
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> Has anyone ever made a compressor which they are happy with?

> If so, how did you do it?

> I am interested in making one, I think...  Thanks for any help! 

>    Jeff Trites


While visiting a friend on his ranch and looking through the "boneyards" for 
antique car parts, I noticed couple of these types of compressors.  It was a 
Model A engine in which 2 of the cylinders were used to produce the compressed
air while it ran off the other 2 cylinders.  Simply plumb the lines using the 
spark plug holes.  What an idea! Of course, people back then had alot of creative 
ideas.

Earl



From billg63475@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 1 May 1996 12:38:16 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4m6uvp$5up@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, writt@aol.com (WRitt)
writes:

>At $995 it is out of  the range of the average home shop
>machinist.


Just for your information, they have just released a windows version that
looks quite a bit nicer than the dos ver 14 that I am using and the cost
is just $495.00 I believe that you can still but the dos version as the
windows version does not yet support lathe programming.


> There  are many good  CAD pgms at much less. I just bought
>AutoSketch for $99.

Those are just cad programs, and yes they are a dime a dozen! Bobcad CAM
is not only a drawing program but it will also create G-Code files
automatically.

>It is called MINC. Are you familiar  with it?

I have heard of it mentioned in this forum before, possibly by you, but I
do not know where you can find it!

I have to admit that there was a time when I thought I could put together
a Sherline machine and sell it for much less! I believe this to be true
only in the sense that I do not have a on going business venture where I
have much overhead and as such I can not  provide the level of service
that say AhHa can and does provide. If there were hundreds of customers
out there who wanted to but a CNC Sherline and they were all experienced
Machinists like yourself and needed very little support, a company might
be able to sell these machines much cheaper. 

Bill


From williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov Sun May  5 13:58:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!news.gmi.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!newsfeed.gsfc.nasa.gov!usenet
From: "Dr. Mark E. Williams" <williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique-ish bellows?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 12:58:29 GMT
Organization: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center -- Greenbelt, Maryland USA
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mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu (Michael L Barocas) wrote:
>
>
>   'Allo dere...
>
>
>  Umm..lesse.  A friend of mine and I were thinking about becoming 
>amateur metalworkers just for the hell of it....However, we kinda want to 
>do it "the old-fashioned way" for the most part.  Does anyone have or 
>know where I can get an old bellows?
>
>
>                              Thankya,
>
>                                   Michael
>
>                           mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu
>
>
You may want old bellows, but the only thing old bellows are good for is as a
pattern to make a new pair of bellows. The old leather on old bellows has a
tendency to crack when not used (and treated) regularly.
-- 
Dr. Mark E. Williams
Bldg N-159, Rm E-215
NASA/GSFC/WFF/EG&G
Wallops Island, VA 23337
804-824-1744
williams@color.wff.nasa.gov

I wouldn't want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.
Grouch Marx



From abrasha@abrasha.com Sun May  5 13:58:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hilbert.dnai.com!usenet
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Smithsonian bought a piece of my work.
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 10:26:10 -0700
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Today is a very special day for me.  I have reached a mile stone in my career that only
a few years ago, I didn't even dream about.  I feel as if I just received an Acadamy
Award!

The Renwick Gallery of the National Museum of American Art at the Smithsonian
Institution in Washington DC, has purchased a major piece of my work for their permanent
collection.

The piece they purchased, is a menorah that I was invited to make for the exhibition,
"Light Interpretations: A Hanukah Menorah Invitational" at The Jewish Museum San
Francisco in San Francisco, CA in 1995.

Take a look at http://www.abrasha.com


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun May  5 13:58:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 1 May 1996 17:18:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
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I've found muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to work very well for
cleaning copper, brass, stainless and normal steel prior to silver
soldering.  I use ~10% of full strength as supplied for pool ph
adjustment - you can buy this at most hardware stores.  I tend to use
it a little stronger if I'm working with steel, as it speeds up the
reaction somewhat as does warming the work piece slightly.

My current boiler project for the Otter (our 19' steam launch, see URL
below) has me silver soldering 55 copper coils into steel nipples
welded into a 8" diameter drum.  Using hydrochloric acid for cleaning
works like a charm.  I mechanically clean the steel nipple insides with
a small rotary wire brush and then apply acid with a small acid brush
until the surface is a uniform gray color.  I then flush the nipple
with water and immediately apply a silver brazing flux that contains
florides.  The copper tube is cleaned with fine steel wool and then
receives the same acid treatment.  The copper immediately gets that
really "bright" look, and is then rinsed in fresh water and gets it's
own thin layer of flux.  I then fit the coil into the nipples and use
45% or 55% (the latter seems to work a bit better) cadmium-free silver
solder to joint the parts.  Then it's on to the next coil.  (next time
I'm using a simpler design w/o so many pieces :-)).

One nice thing is that the hydrochloric acid seems to be much
easier on cotton clothes than sulfuric - when I used to use
sulfuric acid in Chem 101 (some 20 years ago - eek!) I often 
ended up with a hole or two in my jeans...

If you're set on using sulfuric acid, car batteries use this for
electrolyte.  Any large battery supplier should carry it.

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
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C++ Freak (klaas@uniface.nl) wrote:
: phase diagrams of which Ag-Si was the best (99% Ag, 1% Si) I made a sample
: (pure Si alloy grade (99%) is hard to obtain) which turned out to be good:
: easy to roll, etc. But the Si is hard to obtain.

Actually, if you can deal with very pure silicon, you might try to see
if a semiconductor manufacturer is around.  (Your address says "nl".  Perhaps
Phillips?)  Semiconductor manufacturerers use a *lot* of silicon wafers, but
a large percentage of those are used strictly for tests and monitors.  
We'll (yeah, I build them too) recycle them as much as possible, but after
a while they are too thin or are otherwise unusable.  At that point we
toss them.  Sometimes the surplus houses will get some wafers, but a lot of
them end up as landfill after a while.  Typically, at worst case, the wafers
should have an oxide and possibly aluminum on them.  The oxide would be a
dross.  I'd etch the aluminum away with phosphoric acid.  BTW, if you get
wafers with titanium/tungsten, the normal etchant is pure hydrogen peroxide.
You'd have a slow time using home-type peroxide, but it whould probably do
the job.

It's harder, but also possible to get reject product wafers.  The problem is
the additional junk that gets on a wafer--you could probably deal with the
silicon dioxide, but any metalization would make a bit of a mess.  The
fastest strip is by no means safe; I have a *lot* of respect for 
hydrofluoric acid, no matter what the concentration.  However, if there is
no 'passivation layer' (glass, or silicon nitride, or even a polyamide),
you could get rid of aluminum with a phosphoric acid dip and a bit of
patience.  The more exotic metals (like Ti, Tungstan, even Ni or Mo) 
probably wouldn't do too much.  They're very thin to begin with and tend
to be pretty refractory.

The doping impurities will be in really low concentrations.  Even at the 
surface, they don't get much above the ppm level, so I wouldn't be worried
about Arsenic.  By the time you got a whole wafer, you'd be in the ppb range
or lower.

Pete Brooks



From jesw@mitre.org Sun May  5 13:58:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!world!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Tin sheet
Date: 1 May 1996 16:22:35 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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> I am looking for pure tin sheet, in 0.007" thickness...

     How pure?  Just lead-free?  95/5 hard solder is 95% tin, 5%
antimony.  The only really pure tin I have seen was in a distilled water
condenser.  It was called "block tin."

     The people who make printed circuit boards plate thin layers of tin
on them.  Maybe you could get tin plated onto sheet aluminum and then
dissolve the aluminum with lye.  

     Low-melting metals can be cast into thin sheets in an ancient,
tricky, but low-tech way.  Check up on how organ pipes were made.  I've
tried it but didn't get it right, so I don't want to give bad
instructions.


From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Milling machine for sale
Date: 1 May 1996 18:26:12 GMT
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In article <4m589h$fs6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2) writes:
|> It would be a great help if posts of for sale items mentioned the
|> location.
|> 
|> Even the state would help me decide whether I wanted to reply or not. In
|> this case, I am looking for a milling machine, but I can't travel a
|> thousand miles to check it out, much less haul it a couple of thousand
|> miles

	So where was it that you didn't want to haul something ???




From mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu Sun May  5 13:58:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!mozz.unh.edu!hopper.unh.edu!mbarocas
From: mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu (Michael L Barocas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvils
Date: 1 May 1996 16:48:17 GMT
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4m84ki$h9e@mozz.unh.edu>
References: <4m46jg$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com>
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In article <4m46jg$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com> 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com writes:
>Someone was looking for Anvils a while back.  I have a line on two 150 lb
>Vulcans blacksmithing anvils if anyone is still interested.
>
>Dave


    I'll take one if the offer's still open...how much?

                                   Michael

                              mbarocas@hopper.unh.edu




From Paula.Trejo@ucop.edu Sun May  5 13:58:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!agate!will.ucop.edu!usenet
From: Paula Trejo <Paula.Trejo@ucop.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 2 May 1996 00:03:04 GMT
Organization: University of California Office of the President
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4m8u3o$14b2@will.ucop.edu>
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
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ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) wrote:
>
> 
> I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
> silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
> recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
> the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
> I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
> listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
> quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
> acid?
> 
> Regards, Chet


Hi Chet,
You may want to check into using a product called Sparex No.1 for 
ferrous metals or Sparex No.2 for non-ferrous metals.  Sparex No.2 
is a pickle used by jewelers to clean metal after soldering.  It is 
fairly safe and can be used cold or heated (not boiled!).  It can
be purchased from jewelry suppliers.

Goood Luck,
--Paula



From lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk Sun May  5 13:58:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!news.compulink.co.uk!cix.compulink.co.uk!usenet
From: lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Simon Lukic")
Subject: Revised plans for recuperative gas fired forge furnace.
Message-ID: <Dqqv40.3L6@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 20:48:00 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol
Lines: 12

I have an excellent set of plans for the above dated August 1991 and 
produced by the Sandia Nat. Lab., Alberquerque. These are for a third 
generation model and I wondered, whether any further developments have 
been made in the interim. If so, are plans available? I am about to build 
one of these fine beasts and would like to take advantage of any 
refinements made since 1991.
High praise is due to Robb Gunter, Karl W. Schuler & Ronald L. Ward whose 
names are attatched to the plans I have. 
While I am using up bandwidth, does anyone in the SE have a swage block 
or three phase grinder for sale at a post-industrial British price?
Thanks,
Simon


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:58:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 1 May 1996 20:39:50 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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	I took a part off a relatively new SouthBend and had the color matched
	using Dupont Centari. Use Dupont Variprime a a base primer. Then shoot
	Centari Clear Coat on top.

I went to my local auto paint store and talked paint
with them; the two suggestions I started with were DuPont Centari
with a hardener over DuPont Variprime primer, and DuPont Fulthane which
is a VOC-compliant "replacement" for Imron.


Unfortunately, I live in Santa Clara County, CA (part of the San Francisco
Bay Area) and it's no longer legal to sell Centari here (due to VOC
restrictions). There is now a reformulated Imron which *can* be sold
here, much to my surprise. But the guy behind the counter thought that
it was really overkill for a lathe (besides being fairly toxic stuff). 

He recommended, and I purchased, DuPont ChromaOne "High Solids Acrylic
Urethane Single-Stage", which I will catalyze and spray over PPG DP40 primer
(mainly because I have some left and really like its anti-corrosion 
properties). 

I chose DuPont's standard color DS020, which is a very close match to
the patch of original South Bend gray I found under the change gear table.
It's pretty dark, but that's fine with me. I expect that this paint will be
a lot glossier than the original! A quart of paint plus a pint of catalyst
cost about $60.

(This is fairly toxic stuff; I intend to spray it in a Tyvek bunny
suit with goggles and a good charcoal respirator, outside. The pros
spray this stuff with a forced air system.)

Now I'm trying to figure out if I have an oven big enough to bake some
of these pieces when I'm done.


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 17:32:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Message-ID: <101260275@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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/ hpcc01:rec.crafts.metalworking / tmanning@tamu.edu (Timothy Manning) /  8:15 am  Apr 30, 1996 /
In article <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <
wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com> writes:

>  

>I've noticed the Quorn in Model Engineer magazine and pondered how I would go 
>about sending a self-addressed-stamped envelope to England (don't have any 
>British stamps handy).  Do you know if the Quorn is available in the U.S. or 

There's a Web page for Hemingway, http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/index.html
nd Power Model supply sells the Quorn castings and the book.  I'm not sure
which is the better deal.  I think you can fax an order to Hemingway and
bill your credit card.  I have to admit, though that the last time I did
that it was several years ago and was $Cdn vs $US, but I've heard that the
major US cards are honored in the UK.

Pete Brooks
>----------
>


From lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk Sun May  5 13:58:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!news.compulink.co.uk!cix.compulink.co.uk!usenet
From: lukic@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Simon Lukic")
Subject: Revised plans for recuperative gas fired forge furnace.
Message-ID: <Dqqvov.6Cp@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 21:00:31 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol
Lines: 12

I have an excellent set of plans for the above dated August 1991 and 
produced by the Sandia Nat. Lab., Alberquerque. These are for a third 
generation model and I wondered, whether any further developments have 
been made in the interim. If so, are plans available? I am about to build 
one of these fine beasts and would like to take advantage of any 
refinements made since 1991.
High praise is due to Robb Gunter, Karl W. Schuler & Ronald L. Ward whose 
names are attatched to the plans I have. 
While I am using up bandwidth, does anyone in the SE have a swage block 
or three phase grinder for sale at a post-industrial British price?
Thanks,
Simon


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:58:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!DTNET43-137.dt.navy.mil!hanrahan
From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole size for metric taps
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 18:30:33 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <hanrahan.137.3187ADC9@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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In article <317E6BFF.77B3@northnet.org> Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org> writes:
   <Note: I hope I quoted this right - Jim>
> This formula gives a tap driil size for a 92% thread (using a UN thread
>form).  Most tap drill charts will give a drill size for 70% to 75% 
>thread.  In tool steel I use about a 60% thread, and for really narlly
>stuff I'll go down to 45% thread.  It really helps to figure out the size
>for yourself rather than use a chart.  This is the formula to do so for
>UN threads.

>O.D. - (lead * 1.732 * .625 * percent of thread)

>For an English thread divide the pitch into 1 for the lead.
>For example a 5/16 - 18 works out like this
>.3125 - ((1/18 * 1.732 * .625 * percent of thread)) = .2674

  That looks like 75% for UN (Unified National). I have started looking into 
this, and the same equation for American National (old form) from Machinery's 
Handbook is:

 O.D. - (lead * 1.732 * .750 * percent of thread)

I used a spread sheet to generate tables, an example for 5/16-18 is (I can 
post the full tables, or email, if requested):

Nominal Basic Major Threads  American Unified
Diameter Diameter   Per Inch National National Drill Size

   5/16  0.3125      18      49%     59%    0.2770    J
           0.3125      18      56%     67%    0.2720    I
           0.3125      18      64%     77%    0.2660    H
           0.3125      18      65%     78%    0.2656  17/64
           0.3125      18      71%     86%    0.2610    G
           0.3125      18      77%     92%    0.2570    F

So the "F" drill typically recommended in tables is based on the old AN thread 
form, and 77% thread. Remember, the "F" drill might make a hole slightly 
larger than 0.2570 and the percent thread would be less.

Does anyone have info on the strength of using 92% versus 77% UN?
The old rule of thumb (for AN?) was something like; For lengths of engagement 
of at least 1.5 times the nominal diameter, the strength of 65% (AN) is almost 
the same as 75% (and is much easier to tap). I have used 60-65% (calculated 
using the AN formula) for stainless steel and it made the tapping easier.

> Since the early 70's, we in the U.S. have been using
>the UN thread form and all of the standard bolts and machine screws
>that you buy are made to this form (metric included).  Thats why its
>good practice to figure out the tap drill size for yourself.

What percent thread do you recommend using UN?


--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From Kevin@Tritechnet.com Sun May  5 13:58:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.wwa.com!news
From: Kevin@Tritechnet.com (Kevin Coe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction heating
Date: 1 May 1996 21:31:57 GMT
Organization: Tritech Marketing
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In article <31842B39.6C07@syix.com>, wmcj@syix.com says...
>
>Most induction heating is done at Radio Frequency (RF)levels of ac.... 
>Not something to mess about with unless you know the law and the science.

If anyone is interested in applications of induction heating in the 
industrial or cap sealing industries, you should see -

http://www.Lepel.com

It's got a couple of interesting tid bits on applications of induction 
heating in there along with the ussual sales pitch.

Regards,
Kevin



From lindsay@keynet.net Sun May  5 13:58:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lindsay <lindsay@keynet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: pewter
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 12:06:03 -0500
Organization: CU-Online "Your one stop Internet Provider!"
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Dover has a reprint on working pewter which includes casting. It's an 
excellent book. Well illustrated. Inexpensive. I offered it in my 
catalog at one time. Will probably bring it back. May have copies on 
hand. I know I have the original.

Lindsay
as in lindsay publications inc


From freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com Sun May  5 13:58:31 EDT 1996
Article: 27700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cyanamid.com!news
From: Bruce Freeman <freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 1 May 1996 19:36:42 GMT
Organization: American Cyanamid
Lines: 113
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References: <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
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I'm no expert, but I have been playing with aluminum casting recently,
so I'll throw in my two cents:

dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us (Donald I. Baker) wrote:
>
> I do a fair amount of plastic work, using all kinds of epoxies and plastics to 
> make custom little parts.  Now I want to move up to casting of small (6" x 6" 
> x 6" max) aluminum parts.

A cube 6" on a side is not necessarily "small".  If these are just 
the limits of the dimensions, no problem.  The issue here is the 
quantity of metal you must melt and pour.  Obvously your pot or 
crucible must be large enough to contain it safely.  Your furnace 
must then be large enough to contain the pot or crucible.  And if 
things get too big you may need a helper to do the pour.

> 
> About 20 years ago in high school, we did a lot of small sand castings.  Hear 
> are the things I remember:
> 
> 1) Used scrap metal, old car rims, old alum soda cans, and many other true 
> scrap pieces;

Fine, as long as you're not fussy about strenght, and other properties.

> 
> 2) Melted in in a pretty small furnace in a pretty small metal "laddel 
> (spelling ?);

See above.  A ladle (which has a built-in handle) is not the pot of
choice.
> 
> 3) "cleaned-up" the metal goop by adding a flux and skimming the garbage;
> 
Flux is available in moderate quantity from vocational school supply 
houses.  Unfortunately I don't have the name on the tip of my tongue.
Email me privately and I'll look a couple up for you.

> 4) Packed wold in sand (wet) and beat it tight into a wood frame, split the 
> fram and removed the "mold or form item", inserted a metal spout (2 I think 1 
> in and 1 "out");

Ouch!  Don't think "wet".  There's clay (up to 25%) and water (up to
8%) in the sand, but it should not be "wet" as wet sand may tend to 
explode when hit by molten metal.   If you want the best results
with the least effort, I suggest buying Petro-Bond sand ($100 for
100#).  I'm still experimenting with "synthetic" clay-bonded sand, and
don't feel competent to recommend anything yet.

> 
> 5) BINGO, a metal part.

It's almost that easy - after a lot of work!

> 
> I amy also consider a "lost" mold process using wax or oter material that 
> burns out when aluminum is poured in.
> 
> Now what I don't know, and need help with:
> 
> Q1) Is this a special sand ?  Where do I get it ?  How wet should it be ?

You can buy the sand, but d****d if I know where.  Petro-bond sand
is available from the same school supply houses I mentioned, but that's
not to say you can't get it cheaper elsewhere.
> 
> Q2) What is the cheapest source for a smal "furnace" like I need ?

Build the furnace.  Spend $30 to $50 for an insulating castable
refractory.  (call A.P. Green in Mexico, MO, for a free catalog.  
Other brands will work as well.)  This stuff works like cement, and 
dries almost as hard.  GET GINGERY'S BOOK on building and using a
charcoal-fired furnace.  Available from Lindsay Publications.  There
are other books and other fuels.  C.W. Ammen wrote a number of books,
probably any of which will give a basic description of the furnace.
But Gingery's book gives explicit instructions.  Feel free to modify
the design to suit available hardware.
> 

> Q3) Where do I get the "flux" and what is it called (enough detail to go buy 
> it I hope)

See above. 

> Q4) How big a problem is fumes likely to be in a residential area ?

If you burn charcoal (briquettes will do), there's little problem. 
If you burn coal (I don't recommend it) you'll get coal fumes.
If you melt zinc, be very wary of the fumes - they're quite toxic.  
(This goes for brass or any bronze made with zinc, too.)
> 
> Q5) Am I better off using a lost wax type method for small parts ?  I will 
> only want course size and shape as I will finish the parts with Dremel tools 
> and die grinders, etc. ?

Sand casting can work very well, and is very easy (with Petro-bond
sand, anyway).  I suggest you try that first.  
> 
> Thanks for any help and comments.  Please feel free to repsond either to the 
> list or direct EMail.  Direct is probably better, but to the list may be of 
> much more interest to others.  If direct, I will forward copies to the list.
> 
> Thans again.
> 
> Don Baker
> dbaker@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us

I can't overemphasize the advantages of reading up on the methods 
before you start work.  If possible, visit a foundry, or someplace
where small scall casting is demonstrated.  (Hopewell Furnace in 
PA is the only place I know of right now.)

Bruce 


From James.Foster@cdc.com Sun May  5 13:58:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!usenet
From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 16:52:23 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 12
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> I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
> silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
> recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
> the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
> I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  

Try auto parts places. Sold for filling and topping off batteries.


                              
                      
x


From jghasler@win.bright.net Sun May  5 13:58:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jghasler@win.bright.net (John Hasler)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Followup-To: junk
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 20:47:49 GMT
Organization: Dancing Horse Hill
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Followups to junk.
-- 


John Hasler		   This posting is in the public domain.
jghasler@win.bright.net	   Do with it what you will.
Dancing Horse Hill	   Make money from it if you can; I don't mind.
Elmwood, Wisconsin


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun May  5 13:58:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 1 May 1996 23:01:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
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<post of exotic/toxic paints used to protect lathe deleted>

I've often used the local hardware store's (Orchard Supply Hardware)
machinery paint.  It's an alkyd enamel available in a bunch of colors;
I've always brushed it on but it is supposed to be sprayable.  I've
painted my mill table, trailer and steam launch engine with it; the 
only place I've had any trouble is the engine head which gets rather
hot (250 -> 300 F); the paint there lifted in spots.

Like most coating things, cleanliness is next to godliness; a really
thorough cleaning & surface prep is more important than just about 
anything else.

Another paint I've found useful is the one-part poly-ureathanes (sp);
I've used the Red-Devil stuff.  That's the green strip on the boat
you can see via my home page :-).

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:58:32 EDT 1996
Article: 27704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: UN versus AN threads. Was: hole size for metric taps
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 19:23:08 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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>From  my research (use at your own risk) :-)

The difference in thread form between the old American National (AN) and the 
current Unified National (UN), excluding tolerances and allowances is that the 
AN thread form is a complete "V" at the tip. The UN is based 
on a truncated "V" with the root (inside of a external thread) truncated by 
.25*H and the tip (outside of an external thread) truncated by .125*H. Where H 
is the height of a perfect 60 degree "V".

H = 0.5 * lead * 1.73205  Where 1.73205 is tangent of 60 degrees or SQRT(3).
The tangent of 60 degrees comes from doing the geometry, SQRT(3) happens to be 
the same and is often easier when using a calculator.

That is why the previously posted formulas for tap drills have
0.625 = 1-(0.125 + 0.25) for UN threads. Tip and root truncated.
0.750 = 1-(0.25) for AN threads. Only root truncated, ie hole not metal.

ie. the tap drill for UN is

O.D. - (lead * 0.625 * 1.73205 * percent thread)

and AN is

O.D. - (lead * 0.750 * 1.73205 * percent thread)

IMHO, The 12.5% (0.125*H) loss of the tip when using UN instead of AN 
bolts results in very little loss of strength. The hole drilled using the AN 
formula and 75% thread is about the same as the hole drilled using the UN
formula and 90% thread.

I guess my point is to use 92% (or less) with the UN formula, and
75% (or less) for the AN formula when selecting tap drill size.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From davide@rational.com Sun May  5 13:58:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!inet-nntp-gw-1.us.oracle.com!nntp-hub.barrnet.net!rational.com!davide
From: davide@rational.com (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco 4" Milling Vise/Keyless Drill Chuck
Date: 2 May 1996 03:52:34 GMT
Organization: Rational Software Corporation
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <4m9bi2$t7g@rational.rational.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: vortex.rational.com

Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned the 4" vise on sale at MSC
for $59.  I bought a pair of these, and they are nothing short of
fantastic for the price.  The jaws are about .001" out of plumb on
one and perfect on the other.  The movable jaw has an internal wedge
which pulls the jaw down as you tighten, and is adjustable at the
back end for clearance on the ways.

I did find some what I think are minor problems:

the vise needs to be completely dissassembled and cleaned and oiled.  There
was grit inside the spindle bearing, and the internal wedge has a half
ball bearing which needs some oil to do its wedging.

the setscrew at the back of the movable jaw would not stay put, and
the jaw kept losing its adjustment, so I replaced it with a bolt with
a locknut

the T bolts that attach the vise to the circular base are threaded
1/2"-12!!  Just try and find a replacement nut.

the spindle bearing has no thrust ball bearing, just a thrust flange
with no seal, so frequent cleanings and reoilings are a good idea.


--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Erickson    Technical Support Engineer    Rational Software Corporation
email: davide@rational.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:58:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl14.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 1 May 1996 15:49:13 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
Chester A. Roberts, Jr. <ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu> wrote:
>
>I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
>silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
>recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
>the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
>I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
>listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
>quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
>acid?
>
>Regards, Chet

Use automotive battery acid.  Look in a chemistry handbook to find out 
what strength it is to start with, then dilute by pouring it into the 
proper amount of water.  If you add some hydrogen peroxide, you can avoid 
the black smut that forms on the copper when you pickle it.

JerryK


From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:58:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Tin sheet
Date: 1 May 1996 15:59:39 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4m5fn4$hsr@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
JHrisoulas <jhrisoulas@aol.com> wrote:
>Here's a hard one, and maybe someone out there could help.
>
>I am looking for pure tin sheet, in 0.007" thickness. I have called all
>over the US and no one seems to be able to tell me where I can get some. I
>know it is available as I have a sheet right here...;
>
>If anyone has any ideas, well I'd appreciate hearing from you.
>
>Don't care if the supplier is in the US although I would prefer it if they
>were for obvioius reasons..
>
>THANK YOU!
>
>Jim Hrisoulas

Look in the Thomas Register (on-line, actually) using key-words such as 
strip, sheet or foil.  There you will find:

	HTF Products 1-800-840-9345
	Division Lead Ltd. Ptrs 1-800-457-5323
	Belmont Metals	1-718-342-4900
	B & S Aircraft Alloys 1-800-645-2401
	Nuclead, Inc    nuclead@world.std.com

Aldrich Chemical has pure tin sheet 1-800-558-9160.  A 100mm square sheet 
that is 0.25mm thick costs $60+.

Johnson Matthey 1-800-343-0660 has tin sheet that is 99.999% pure in .001, 
.002, .004, .005, .0098, .013, .020, etc., but not very cheap.  0.0098" 
costs $86.50 for 100mm sq.

It is not a problem finding this stuff or a whole bunch of other exotic 
metals.  The problem is the cost.

JerryK


From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:33 EDT 1996
Article: 27708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 1 May 1996 19:03:45 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4m841o$gsn@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, billg63475@aol.com
(BILLG63475) writes:

>I have to admit that there was a time when I thought I could put together
>a Sherline machine and sell it for much less! I believe this to be true
>only in the sense that I do not have a on going business venture where I
>have much overhead and as such I can not  provide the level of service
>that say AhHa can and does provide. If there were hundreds of customers
>out there who wanted to but a CNC Sherline and they were all experienced
>Machinists like yourself and needed very little support, a company might
>be able to sell these machines much cheaper. 
>
>

I'm not sure this can be done on a commercial basis, especially
considering the after sale support that  would be  required for
inexperienced hobbiests. The conclusions I have drawn are: (1) If  you
want a very reasonably priced Sherline retrofit you will have  to build it
yourself. I believe this is in part what Dan Mauch is trying to tell
people. (2) If you are going to spend $5000 for a CNC then go for a
retrofit on a mill/drill, or something larger than the  Sherline. As the
gentleman from AhHa stated in his post their retrofit package is overkill 
for  a Sherline. Even so it is a high quality package at substantially
less than $5k, and I  think it would be considered professional by
anyone's standards.

Even at $495 I think BobCAD is a bit out  of reach for the average
hobbiest. DanCad's ability to  read  ASCII files makes it more attractive
to them as they can use just about any  CAD program. The major drawback 
is the lack of cutter comp. I believe a large portion of  we are paying 
for in a CAD/CAM application is after sale support.  This support is very
expensive. The problem with this is that people who buy these packages
that are experienced enough not  to need all this  support are still
paying for it. I would  like to see  a  higher price offered including
support, and a  lower price requiring the  buyer to pay for any support.
This way the  buyer pays only for what he/she actually needs. Any comments
on this thought?

Bill

PS This thread is proving to  be far more enlightening than I  ever
imagined.


From jklessig@slip.net Sun May  5 13:58:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!su-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!news1.slip.net!news
From: jklessig@slip.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rivet sources
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 22:23:24 GMT
Organization: Slip.Net
Lines: 26
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>In article <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net>, Bob Hurley
><bhurley@washington.xtn.net> wrote:

>$ Can anyone help me find an economical source for rivits,
>$ especially soft iron round head of 1/8 to 3/16 dia?
>$ 
>$ I'm trying to learn to build medieval armor.
>$ 
>$ Thanks,
>$ Bob

R.J. Leahy Co  (im not positive of the spelling) in S.F. Ca, carries
all kinds of rivets, and will mail order. 

They carry, brass, iron, stainless in round head, and some in flat
head, including some that are like tinners rivets but have a different
name. All of which are suitable for armoring.

 I am sure that there are closer sources, for common rivets however. 

You should talk to other armourers close to you ( I presume you are in
AnTir, so there should be several) and find out where they get theirs.


jk



From Jay T Carrigan Sun May  5 13:58:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jtc@crosslink.net (Jay T Carrigan)
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Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 1 May 1996 23:27:49 GMT
Organization: crosslink.net
Lines: 40
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Please don't continue this spam by sending to all newsgroups!

In article <4m6usq$8fk@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>, 
babydeer@ix.netcom.co says...
>
>In <31853EBE.D5@infosphere.com> T-Bone <twalker@infosphere.com> 
writes:
>
>>
>>Scott Taylor wrote:
>>[deleted]
>>> Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable
>>> business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the
>modules
>>> or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and
>will
>>> ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable
>companies
>>> in the area where the products have been sent. This includes
>>> names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines 
alot
>of
>>> people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their
>meters, they
>>> can see alot more than you think.
>>
>>so, uh, what's your point ? 
>>
>>is it illegal to own one of these boxes ?
>>
>>TimW
>
>to own it no.  to hook it up to receive free cable yes.  in some 
states
>you can receive up to a 5,000.00 fine for theft of cable service. 
>these guys are out to make a fast buck off people who want cable but
>either can't afford it or don't want to pay for it.
>
>remember rule 1:  if it sounds too good to be true it usually is.



From pestus@mail.coos.or.us Sun May  5 13:58:34 EDT 1996
Article: 27711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.coos.or.us!joef@mail.coosesd.k12.or.us
From: pestus@mail.coos.or.us (D.J. Richards)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardening new reamer
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 22:11:48 GMT
Organization: South Coast Area Network
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rfra@ernie (Bob Frazier) wrote:

>	Greetings All, after painstakingly creating a chamber reamer for gun barrel 
>work, I attempted to harden the oil quench drill rod with a charcoal fire 
>followed by quenching in a cup of oil. I realize the temp of the steel is 
>important, but as I'm monetarily impaired, I thought I'd give it a try.
>I doused the reamer in caseinit to increase my chances of getting the rod
>hard. The hardness seems o.k., a file doesn't cut it. The problem is that the 
>narrow part of the reamer leading to a solid pilot warped like a crescent moon!
>	Maybe grinding this after heat treat would be the best solution.
>Any ideas?
>		Thanks, Bob Frazier	rfra@unirsvl.com

I doubt that you will ever get away from warpage. I work at an outfit
that produces chamber reamers. Even using a vacuum furnace, we get
warpage. We machine the reamer .015 - .025" oversize and grind the
reamer to size. If the warpage is too much to grind out, we have to
straighten it by suspending it between centers and using an
oxy-acetylene torch to heat it and hammer (gently) it back relatively
straight, then grind it to size. I hope this helps you some

D.J. Richards
pestus@mail.coos.or.us



From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Sun May  5 13:58:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lathe roller bearing adjustment
Date: 1 May 1996 20:37:31 GMT
Organization: SRI International
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

The bearings on my 12" Jet lathe heat up a lot with continuous use on the
higher speeds. The spindle is also stiff to start turning after sitting. I
have a hunch that the previous owner set the bearings too tight when he
installed a Royal lever collet closer attachment. Can someone tell me the
proper way to adjust the bearings? Do I go for a certain preload (measured
how?), a certain starting torque, or a certain fraction of a turn of the
nut after finger tight? I'm worried that if I keep running as is, I will
toast something.

-- 
Rich Klopp
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From tonylos@village.ios.com Sun May  5 13:58:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ios.com!usenet
From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Screws
Date: 1 May 1996 23:58:43 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4m8trj$nm1@news.ios.com>
References: <4ksqjk$gtn@acme.sb.west.net> <4kv878$sdi@news-e2c.gnn.com> <4l0gha$4c4@acme.sb.west.net>
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To: steamer@west.net


>	OK, a followup then: typically how accurate is yer typical Acme 
>screw like that originally supplied with the mill?? I mean, if the rolled 
>screws aren't any more accurate, what's the point? One supposes the 
>reduction of load is significant, which would be important in terms of 
>sizing a motor to drive the axis, but would I really gain *any* accuracy 
>in positioning with a rolled screw??

The reason roller screws are more accurate is because there is much less
backlash. A new Acme screw will wear enough in a short time to produce
a lot of backlash. Roller screws don't have that problem. The reduction
in load to produce movement isn't the point.



From abrasha@abrasha.com Sun May  5 13:58:35 EDT 1996
Article: 27714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hoho.quake.net!hilbert.dnai.com!usenet
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Smithsonian bought a piece of mine
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 20:59:27 -0700
Organization: Direct Network Access
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Today is a very special day for me.  I have reached a mile stone in my career that only
a few years ago, I didn't even dream about.  I feel as if I just received an Acadamy
Award!

The Renwick Gallery of the National Museum of American Art at the Smithsonian
Institution in Washington DC, has purchased a major piece of my work for their permanent
collection.

The piece they purchased, is a menorah that I was invited to make for the exhibition,
"Light Interpretations: A Hanukah Menorah Invitational" at The Jewish Museum San
Francisco in San Francisco, CA in 1995.

Take a look at http://www.abrasha.com


From keithcla@netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: alt.california,alt.horology,la.general,la,news,lathe.general,netcom.shell.www,rec.antiques,rec.antiques.marketplace,rec.collection,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,umich.www,unlv.www
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From: keithcla@netcom.com (Keith Clark)
Subject: Re: Clock & Watch FTP sites and Web pages
Message-ID: <keithclaDqr2A8.6B3@netcom.com>
Followup-To: alt.california,alt.horology,la.general,la,news,lathe.general,netcom.shell.www,rec.antiques,rec.antiques.marketplace,rec.collection,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,umich.www,unlv.www
Organization: World.Earth.Sol.3
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
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Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 23:22:56 GMT
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Sender: keithcla@netcom6.netcom.com
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Mike Murray (mikem@netcom.com) wrote:

   [...delete...]

: 	This Web site contains invaluable information about
: clocks and watches (horology).  There is information about
: alternate FTP's, mailing lists, newsgroups, quality
: organizations, repair tips, horological schools, alternate
: Web sites, and the locations of just about anything concerning
: clocks and watches.

: 	There are also other useful Web sites pages in the
: middle of my main Web page which are:

: 1)	AWI`s Unofficial Web Pages			(awi.html)
: 2) 	Business Reference, Internet File &
: 	Software Reference, Library Reference,	(referen.html)
: 	& U.S. Government Links
: 3)	Horological Links					(horology.html)
: 4)	The Yellow Pages Links			(yellow.html)
: 5)	A Practical Guide for Your Web Site	(website.html)
: 	Links
: 6)	Weird Clocks Links				(weird.html)

: 	You can access them directly;  I'll use awi as an example
: 	http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/awi.html

: 	Also, through this site you will be able to access my four
: FTP sites which contain all of the information mentioned above and
: much, much more.  So if you like to d/l (download) you'll love
: my FTPs.  At present I have over 60 files to d/l.  

: 	The Web address is http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/

: 	There are over 35 Web pages for you to explore.  Also, you
: can go directly to my main FTP site by using the following address:

   [...delete...]


   Now here is someone about whom one can safely say, with the least bit 
of sarcasm, that he has too much time on his hands. God I love odd Web 
sites like this that show more creativity than 1) pictures of someone & 
his buddies on a fishing trip; 2) still more porn; or 3) nothing at the 
Web page except a request for people to send its owner ideas for what to 
put there...

   BTW, did you know the His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, likes repairing 
watches -- and sometimes just takes them apart so he can put them back 
together again. Apparently he's become fairly good at it.

   May Kronos be with you...

-- 
keithcla@netcom.com
  "The old believe everything; the middle-aged suspect everything; the 
young know everything."
       -- Oscar Wilde


From robertp@online.dct.com Sun May  5 13:58:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!uwvax!tricia!news.atw.fullfeed.com!online.dct.com!usenet
From: robertp@online.dct.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Traplet Publications
Date: 2 May 1996 00:51:33 GMT
Organization: Green Bay Online
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4m90ul$sti@online.dct.com>
Reply-To: robertp@online.dct.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.29.185.124
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.03

These books are now available in the USA from R/C Modeler Magzine. PO Box
487 Sierra Madre, CA 91025. Phone orders 1-800-523-1736. 
Hope this helps out, Robert


From mikem@netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:36 EDT 1996
Article: 27717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: alt.california,alt.horology,la.general,la,news,lathe.general,netcom.shell.www,rec.antiques,rec.antiques.marketplace,rec.collection,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,umich.www,unlv.www
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From: mikem@netcom.com (Mike Murray)
Subject: Clock & Watch FTP sites and Web pages
Message-ID: <3187e173.885720@192.0.2.3>
Sender: mikem@netcom7.netcom.com
Organization: Mike's Clock Clinic
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Last updated May 01, 1996.  Copyright 1995-1996 Michael P. Murray

	This is a monthly announcement directed at the newer
hitchhikers on the super information highway.

	If you have a Web viewer (Cello, Microsoft's Internet
Browser, Mosaic, Netscape, OS/2 Web Explorer, Slipknot, etc.)
then please pay a visit to my site.  Web is short for the
World Wide Web.

	The Web address is: http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/

	This Web site contains invaluable information about
clocks and watches (horology).  There is information about
alternate FTP's, mailing lists, newsgroups, quality
organizations, repair tips, horological schools, alternate
Web sites, and the locations of just about anything concerning
clocks and watches.

	There are also other useful Web sites pages in the
middle of my main Web page which are:

1)	AWI`s Unofficial Web Pages			(awi.html)
2) 	Business Reference, Internet File &
	Software Reference, Library Reference,	(referen.html)
	& U.S. Government Links
3)	Horological Links					(horology.html)
4)	The Yellow Pages Links			(yellow.html)
5)	A Practical Guide for Your Web Site	(website.html)
	Links
6)	Weird Clocks Links				(weird.html)

	You can access them directly;  I'll use awi as an example
	http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/awi.html

	Also, through this site you will be able to access my four
FTP sites which contain all of the information mentioned above and
much, much more.  So if you like to d/l (download) you'll love
my FTPs.  At present I have over 60 files to d/l.  

	The Web address is http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/

	There are over 35 Web pages for you to explore.  Also, you
can go directly to my main FTP site by using the following address:

	ftp.netcom.com/pub/mi/mikem (My main site)

	Please enjoy and you can E-mail me from the Web site
or directly with any feedback.

        Thanks for reading.

        A service from,  E-mail address: z4murray@webcom.com
         Mike Murray          Listowner for Clockers      

A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.
In continuous service since 04/01/1982.

Mike's Clock Clinic  Memberships:  AWI # 17851; NAWCC # 074021
1326 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, California  USA  90404-2502
Fax: 310-828-7381

My Web site is located at http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/
Main FTP site is located at ftp.netcom.com/pub/mi/mikem

Clockers sign-up/off is now as automated as its going to
be at http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/mailing.html

Copyright 1995-1996 Michael P. Murray


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:58:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news1.best.com!news.aimnet.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: NAMES
Message-ID: <1996May2.004047.872@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <1996Apr30.021358.25676@bbxrbk.basis.com> <ginger.447.01ACD2EF@pcm.ultranet.com> <4m7iir$tr@news-e2d.gnn.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 00:40:47 GMT
Lines: 19

In article <4m7iir$tr@news-e2d.gnn.com>, Scott Logan <SLogan@gnn.com> wrote:
>In article <ginger.447.01ACD2EF@pcm.ultranet.com>, From 
>ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger), the following was written:
>> It was indeed fun to see the faces behind some of these e-mail names 
>> we use.
>
>I'll second that!  It was real great to finally meet you, Russ, and
>several others who I feel like I've gotten to know over the last few
>months.  I'm very sorry that I missed the seminar you put on, but just
>wait till NAMES '97!

Yes, I was sorry to have made it away without saying goodby to you and
your dad.  Glad we had the time to swap stories Friday.  (You should
have stayed for dinner Saturday).

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From brendant@perth.DIALix.oz.au Sun May  5 13:58:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!DIALix!not-for-mail
From: brendant@perth.DIALix.oz.au (Brendan Tibbs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chemical silvering
Date: 2 May 1996 11:30:18 +0800
Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Australia.
Lines: 25
Sender: brendant@perth.DIALix.oz.au
Message-ID: <4m9a8a$hfr$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au>
References: <1996Apr27.094330.3816@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <3182d290.0@isnt.mursuky.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: brendant@perth.dialix.oz.au

Terry McCreary (mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu) wrote:
: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
: 
: >I just recieved an interesting/insulting flame about my posting re: the 
: >formation of an explosive from chemical silvering chemicals.  It should 
: >be noted that I was refering to chemical deposition of silver, not 
: >electroplating.                                                                                                      
: 
: >Every book I have on the subject has this warning.  This includes the  
: >Amateur Telescope Making series by Scientific American.  
: 
: You are correct.  Chemical silvering solution does have the potential
: to form an explosive compound.  In the organic chemistry lab we teach
: the students to use the so-called "Tollens test".  A : 
: Incidentally, I've found the instructions on silvering given in "How
: to Make a Telescope", J. Texereau, to be the easiest to follow.
: 
: T. McCreary, Ph.D.
: Associate Professor of Chemistry
: "I don't need a disclaimer.  Everyone knows that I don't know what I'm
: talking about."
: 
any info on the silvering procedures would be very much appreciated by
many !!!   
           Brendan


From pops@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us Sun May  5 13:58:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.ksu.ksu.edu!news.mid.net!news.nde.state.ne.us!usenet
From: pdebrito <pops@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating and anodizing
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 07:57:10 -0700
Organization: Nebraska Dept. of Education
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31862A46.37D7@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
References: <4lr8oa$agj@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <blake-2704960109120001@206.84.2.82>
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Blake Malkamaki wrote:
> 
>.... I use powder coating all the time for my silhouette metal sign 
>brackets.....

Blake,

I heard the equipment for powder coating is expensive (special gun, 
electrostatic stuff too, recapturing system, special ovens!!!).  Is this 
true?  About what is the initial investment, and how much does the powder 
cost.

I've been really interested in purchasing the system for my little shop, 
but the stories of the cost of the equipment has kept me from seriously 
persuing it.


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:58:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 10:52:46 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <31881d2c.10083122@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <4ll7sg$998@nic.wat.hookup.net> <4lnvqo$duv@news-e2b.gnn.com> <4m45k6$5f6@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> <1996May1.091003.22969@roper.uwyo.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: codesmth.demon.co.uk
X-NNTP-Posting-Host: codesmth.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99c/16.141

According to some photos in one of the latest British model aircraft
mags, Schreckling has now built & flown the first gas turbine model
helicopter.



From janders@oro.net Sun May  5 13:58:37 EDT 1996
Article: 27722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!uniserve!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Moglice castable bearing resins; (was "Sheldon Spare Parts")
Date: 2 May 1996 05:24:28 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <4m9guc$i1b@hg.oro.net>
References: <4m5st5$jc@hg.oro.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janders.oro.net
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

Alan requested via Email that I post some details on Moglice, so here it is.

Moglice is a low friction castable bearing material. It comes in a thin injectable 
form, or a paste that can be troweled on. One side of a way must be restored 
to perfect condition. For a lathe, this means grinding the bed. The carraige would
then have it's ways machined or ground back approx 1/16 inch. Small shims of 
Moglice are glued to the freshly prepped ways, and are scrapped until the carraige
is in proper alignment. The carraige is removed, the ways coated with release agent,
Moglice is applied to the carraige way surfaces, and the carraige is placed back on 
the ways. The putty will flow until the previously scraped pads come into contact with
the ways. There it sits until the Moglice cures, at which time the carraige is again removed,
and any excess is chiseled, filed, machined off, and any needed oil holes and grooves 
are done. You now have a low friction, wear resistant bearing surface, with much 
better contact that can be obtained by most scrapers. 
I'll be using the injectable version to cast new threads in the crossfeed nut of a 
surface grinder I'm restoring. (I'll post something on how that turns out after I get
some time on it)

Moglice, and some interesting related products are carried by:

Devitt Machinery Co.
4009-G Market Street
Aston, PA  19014
610-494-2900
610-494-7541 fax

An example of costs: 100 grams of Moglice (injectable) costs $34.75,
and will fill approx 3 cubic inches. The release agent costs $24.25, and
is enough to do several Bridgeport class mills. Devitt has a video available
for loan that shows some real impressive applications.

This could be a neat, low cost method of building some high precision home
machinery.

 Jon



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Sun May  5 13:58:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!noc.nyx.net!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical silvering
Date: 2 May 1996 06:37:27 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4maaa7$d3p@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <1996Apr26.130708.4443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <DqLF0A.7wM@iptcorp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

>: silver fulminate, which is very unstable.  Even sunlight can cause it to 
>
>Actually, silver fulminate isn't all that unstable -- but the reaction
>between some silver salts (notably the nitrate) and ammonia produces
>a compound called fulminating silver, exact composition unknown last
>I heard, which is just as nasty as you say.

Is this coupound unstable when suspended or covered with water or only 
when dry as is the case with the compound formed by Iodine and Ammonia?

rhg



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun May  5 13:58:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.wildstar.net!news.sdsmt.edu!news.mid.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 30 Apr 1996 14:46:39 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4m594f$11k@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <4llt8k$aia@tin.monsanto.com> <4lmo4g$sm7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lr2l4$klm@tin.monsanto.com> <4m2b0o$b2t@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
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>I thought for about 5 minutes of mounting the Dumore on
>the shaper. It won't work. Too heavy. 

>
Charlie,
Clearly you have thought this one through and I appreciate your comments. I had 
underestimated the weight of tool post grinders. The lighest Thermac Grinder in the 
Enco catalog is listed at 22 lbs. If I had one, I would probably try it on my 7 inch 
Atlas but I would not be totally confident that the ram would behave ok with the 
extra weight.(I suspect that your Dumore grinder is even heavier).

>Finally, you'd HAVE to set the wheel such that it threw
>the crap straight back at the operator! Otherwise it would
>toss it all right into the machine. 

I am not sure that I understand this one. Couldn't you set it up so that the crap 
went straight out the front, which would miss the operator standing by the side of 
the machine ?


Roger Weppelman



From owen@davies.mv.com Sun May  5 13:58:38 EDT 1996
Article: 27725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!world!mv!usenet
From: owen@davies.mv.com
Subject: Welding instruction needed.  Where do I go?
Message-ID: <Dqs2Io.32A@mv.mv.com>
Organization: MV Communications, Inc.
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 12:25:36 GMT
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: davies.mv.com
Lines: 12

I'm tired of being a decent amateur and want professional-level
instruction in MIG, TIG, etc.  Last I knew, Hobart and Lincoln were
supposed to have the best schools around--but that's 20 years ago.
At this point, I can't even remember where to find them.  Can anyone
suggest where to go these days?  A comparable school in the North-
east would be really welcome, but I will relocate if necessary to get
the kind of instruction I want.

BTW, email would help a lot.  Our server seems kind of flaky, and
I don't get much chance to visit the newsgroups anyway.

Many thanks.


From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:58:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!copper.ucs.indiana.edu!jverburg
From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Needed: source of brass wire
Date: 2 May 1996 06:44:00 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4m9ljg$83n@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
References: <dlr13.54.3186663C@psu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: copper.ucs.indiana.edu
NNTP-Posting-User: jverburg
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Doug Ripka (dlr13@psu.edu) wrote:
: Hi all,

: I need to find a source of .030 to .035" brass, phosphor bronze, or beryllium 
: copper wire, for making small tapered coiled springs.  Any leads would be 
: appreciated.  Email me directly, as I don't always get to read this group.

: Thanks,

: Doug Ripka (dlr13@psu.edu)

   McMaster-Carr has both phosphorus-bronze and soft brass wire. I think 
the brass runs about $15 for a 1lb spool of 20Ga. and about $25 for a 1lb 
spool of the phosphorus-bronze. 

Hope this Helps.

John VerBurg


From abrasha@abrasha.com Sun May  5 13:58:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hoho.quake.net!hilbert.dnai.com!usenet
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sorry folks
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 21:10:54 -0700
Organization: Direct Network Access
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <318835CE.77AD@abrasha.com>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I)

My apologies to everyone for the multiple posts.  I was having trouble 
with my newsreader.

Abrasha


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:58:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Strength of Threads in Dissimilar Metals?
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 20:50:53 +0100
Organization: Home
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <82752CAdC8hxEwxc@abdab.demon.co.uk>
References: <4kbb6n$d05@news.tiac.net>
 <wwebster-0904960747420001@47.116.15.87> <RJmCUBAPvXbxEw3Z@abdab.demon.co.uk>
 <4lpcjf$1qma@mule1.mindspring.com>
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Michael John Hide writes
>Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>I have a old jag with a v12 aluminum [aluminium] engine they consistently use 
>un coarse in the aluminum and un fine in the ferrous applications
>

No I did not.
I have never written anything of the kind.

Please take more care with your editing.

Of course, if anyone would like to give me an old Jag ...
-- 
Charles


From marty.reynard@bbc.org Sun May  5 13:58:39 EDT 1996
Article: 27729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: marty.reynard@bbc.org (MARTY REYNARD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Epoxy recomendations
Message-ID: <8BFC4C0.03400019AF.uuout@bbc.org>
Date: Wed, 01 May 96 20:16:00 -0700
Distribution: world
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 MK> I always wanted to use whatever it is that's used to glue all that
 MK> strange stuff to the soda bottle that you see at the counter of the
 MK> hardware store.  I think they always have a bolt, a rubber bathtub
 MK> stopper, and a golf ball glued to an Orange Crush bottle.  I've never
 MK> used any glue that worked half that well, but seeing that bottle
 MK> inevitably renews my Adhesive Religious Convictions and gives me the
 MK> courage to buy another tube of whatever's new. 

        As a jewelry/metal artist with a like fetish for adhesives,
        Mark, I wonder if you have used JB Weld, which is likely a
        strong epoxy with fine steel powder embedded for strength.  I
        have had some good applications for this product (stocked at
        many hobby shops and automotive parts stores).  I liked the
        Orange Crush glue job, but it was awfully thick--an eyesore for
        my kind of work.

        Are there any other adhesives you have had success with for
        metal to metal joining?




___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12


From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:58:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Date: 2 May 1996 07:25:46 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Lines: 46
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Don Berry (berry@a.chem.upenn.edu) wrote:
: Several folks asked me to post this description of how to silver glass
: (i.e., make mirrors.)  Here it is.

[snip].

This is really  funny. I just got done make two quartz dewars using this 
process. In case some of you want the actual reference, The book is called:

"Scientific Glassblowing" by E.L. Wheeler. It's been around for quite 
awhile and should be available in any University library.

I just want to add some useful information based on my personal experience.


CLEANING: I used a 30 minute wash of cleaning solution (10g sodium 
dichromate in 200ml of concentrated sulfuric acid). at 60 C. Don't 
substitute potassium dichromate for the sodium dichromate. It's far less 
soluble.  Rinse 3x with distilled or deionized water. Then wash with 
concentrated nitric acid for 10 min. Rinse 3x with distilled water. Wash 
with concentrated ammonium hydroxide. WARNING. All of the above chemicals 
are EXTREMELY CORROSIVE, if you don't know already. The cleaning solution 
is corrosive, dehydrates the skin, and is carcinogenic.I would recommend 
woking in a fume hood along with goggles and gloves.
	 The mirrors I made using this preparation and the Brashear process
 came out beautifully. 

IN CASE YOU SCREW UP (removal of mirrored surface):

Make a 5% solution (wt/wt) of cupric chloride (CuCl2) and fill the 
silvered vessel. The mirror will turn a pinkish color. Wash 2x with 
distilled water. Prepare a 10% of sodium thiosulfate, also called sodium 
hyposulfite. Fill the vessel. The pink film should dissolve. If there is 
some left on the glass, repeat the process. Rinse 2x with distilled 
water. Wash with 10% sodium hydroxide to neutrillize the previous 
solution. Rinse 2x with distilled water. Now you can try silvering the 
surface again. 

John Verburg - Graduate Student 
Dept of Chemistry 
Indiana University
Bloomington, Indiana USA

DISCLAIMER: The above is for informational purposes only. I cannot be 
held responsible for any injury resulting from improper use of this 
information.


From andy@aluxpo.att.com Sun May  5 13:58:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: A_P_Sabol <andy@aluxpo.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardening new reamer
Date: 2 May 1996 13:22:58 GMT
Organization: Bell Laboratories, Reading, PA
Lines: 4
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Why not use air hardened drill rod. It should not warp.

 Andy



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sun May  5 13:58:40 EDT 1996
Article: 27732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 09:55:58 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <r.lee-0205960955580001@ppp14.nantucket.net>
References: <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <9604300915.AA07249@128.194.179.45>

In article <9604300915.AA07249@128.194.179.45>, tmanning@tamu.edu (Timothy
Manning) wrote:


> I've noticed the Quorn in Model Engineer magazine and pondered how I would go 
> about sending a self-addressed-stamped envelope to England (don't have any 
> British stamps handy).  Do you know if the Quorn is available in the U.S. or 
> just directly from England?  Also, who is Professor Dennis Chaddock?

Tim the Late Prof Chaddock was a highly respected teacher in Tech Colleges
in the UK and a major contributor to the ME press in the 60s, 70s and 80s.

Any outfit that asks for a SASA in the UK ME press will be very happy to
send you their stuff if you send them about 6 IRCs (International Reply
Coupons), you can get them at any post office. When I researched it and
got my castings about 5 years ago it was about 100 bucks cheaper to get
them direct from MES in the UK...(though    -  Power Model Supply
      13260 Summit Drive
      De Soto, MO  63020
      (314) 586-6466 had them here in the US)

 in the event I actualy picked them up at MES on a visit and saved a
further $80 in shipping by schleping them home in my bags... nice folks to
deal with.

~R


From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:58:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: 2 May 1996 07:52:12 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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Hi Everyone.

 I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely 
non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an 
8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet. I have tried 304 stainless 
and inconel and they are both still too magnetic for my purposes. I am 
considering titanium, but cannot find a supplier. If anyone can direct me 
to a supplier of titanium tubing or can suggest alternative alloys, I 
would appreciate it greatly. BTW, the dimensions for the tubing is .250" 
OD,  > .1875" ID x 12" long. If you have any laying around, I would be 
interested in purchasing it from you.


Thanks,

John VerBurg - Graduate Student
Dept of Chemistry
Indiana University
Bloomington, Indiana USA 


From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:58:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silcon Carbide castable ceramic?
Date: 2 May 1996 08:02:32 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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hello,

I am thinking about purchasing some castable silicon carbide and have a 
few questions about its properties. I am curious to know if it can be 
used to fabricate close tolerence pieces. I am also intererested in how its 
electrical, thermal and mechanical properties compare to single crystal 
silicon carbide. If anyone has experience with this material, I would 
like to hear about your experience with it. Also, I only need a small 
amount (200 grams). If anyone has any they would like to sell or knows of 
a distributor who sells in such quantities, I would much enjoy hearing 
>from  you.   Any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John VerBurg - Graduate Student 
Dept of Chemistry
Indiana University
Bloomington, Indiana USA



From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:58:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Date: 2 May 1996 07:39:42 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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Message-ID: <4m9oru$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
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Oh yeah,

In case any of you want the gory details on the whole process including 
the mistakes I've made, substitution of chemicals, and how to tell if 
your solution is ready, don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than 
willing to share my experience.

John VerBurg - Graduate Student
Dept of Chemistry
Indiana University
Bloomington, Indiana USA



From oldpap@gate.net Sun May  5 13:58:41 EDT 1996
Article: 27736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.corpcomm.net!news.gate.net!news
From: Robin Mitchell <oldpap@gate.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: stencil cutters
Date: 2 May 1996 14:40:46 GMT
Organization: Gibson the Dog Publishing Co.
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Seeking stencil-cutting dies to create letters/numerals 3/8- to 1/2-inch 
high. Must be able to cut through thin sheet brass.

I want to re-create personal equipment-marking stencils as would be used 
by soldiers during the 1860s.

Is there such a beast available on the market today or a process, a la 
photoetching, to make cost-effective one-ofs? 

Any assistance is appreciated.

Robin Mitchell
oldpap@gate.net




From rfra@unirsvl.com Sun May  5 13:58:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Frazier <rfra@unirsvl.com>
Subject: Re: Barnes lathe advice needed
Sender: news@unirsvl.rsvl.unisys.com (News Administration)
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Bob Frazier wrote:
> 
> I have an opportunity to buy an antique lathe. I want to do some
> basic gunsmithing and other things as they come up. This is the least
> expensive real lathe I have found, about $400. It appears to have been
> converted to electric from some other power, maybe steam or water? At any
> rate it has a series of wood pulleys to adjust speed and an electric
> motor (110) to drive it. Patent date is 1887, and it comes with a steady
> rest, rocker tool post, and a small face plate. The name Barnes is not
> familiar to me, but then I'm not nearly as old as this machine! The ways
> appear somewhat chipped and dinged up, as it has not been idle all this
> time. I'm not familiar with scraping or making new bearings, but this
> seems a good time to learn. Any thoughts about this would be
> appreciated! It would fit in with my Buffalo Forge drill press of the
> same vintage!	I looked over this lathe more carefully yesterday. The salesman said it was
converted from a treadle! I noticed a few problems. Some I have solutions for, others
have got me stumped.	
1. no chuck						apply money
2  back gear eccentric which engages gears loose	new bearing?
3  steady rest base missing				make one
4  some gears are here. obviously some missing.		find or make some
5  planetary gear not bolted(?) 			?
	This last one has got me stumped as I don't know what the planetary gear is
for or why someone would take the bolt out of one. It makes a noise inside as the
spindle is rotated. 
	The tailstock is a #1 morse taper so maybe one thing about this lathe will not 
be a custom proposition! The toolpost is wider than normal - salesman says this
means cheaper tools are available. Hmmm.
		I think I will make a low offer and see what happens!
	Bob Frazier	rfra@unirsvl.com


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun May  5 13:58:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: 2 May 1996 14:59:22 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg) writes:
>Hi Everyone.
>
> I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely 
>non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
>continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
>gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an 
>8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet. I have tried 304 stainless 
>and inconel and they are both still too magnetic for my purposes. I am 
>considering titanium, but cannot find a supplier. If anyone can direct me 
>to a supplier of titanium tubing or can suggest alternative alloys, I 
>would appreciate it greatly. BTW, the dimensions for the tubing is .250" 
>OD,  > .1875" ID x 12" long. If you have any laying around, I would be 
>interested in purchasing it from you.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>John VerBurg - Graduate Student

Try Uniform Tube (UTI Corp)
      Collegeville, PA
      (215) 539-0700

They might have a scrap piece in stock, or could draw a lot for you.
(you do have an infinite budget, right?)

Also consider sapphire or ceramic (alumina) tubing - does it *have*
to be bent?




===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Sun May  5 13:58:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radiator stop-cock thread
Date: 2 May 1996 17:40:23 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
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Bill Webster (wwebster@nortel.ca) wrote:
> 
> Why is the thread on a radiator stop-cock left handed?
> Is it a standard thread pitch?
> 
> Anybody know the history on this one?
> 

My guess about left handed is that we're used to tightening things by 
turning them clockwise, and counterclockwise to loosen them.  The 
stop-cock has a hollow stem that the water drains through, so it is 
tightened by being screwed outward, rather than inward.  A left handed 
thread screws out-clockwise and tightens the valve to shut off.

I had one of these from my furnace apart the other day to free it up.  It 
looked like about 1/4"- something, maybe 28 or 32.  Since my furnace is 
working again, I'm not going to take it off to see what the thread is.

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:42 EDT 1996
Article: 27740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 17:10:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Message-ID: <101260276@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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Oops, I noticed on reviewing the Hemingway web page that they don't sell
the Quorn castings.  Not sure who does in the UK.

Pete Brooks



From suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us Sun May  5 13:58:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "S. Russell Sutton" <suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us>
Subject: Leather drive belting
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I have a Browne and Sharpe #2 surface grinder which is driven by a 1 1/4" 
leather drive belt.  It is old and beginning to break more frequently.  
Soon I will not be able to piece it together.  Does any know of a 
replacement source and is a more permanent material available other than 
leather?

Thanks 

Russ Sutton
Custom Knifemaker (among other things)


From jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com Sun May  5 13:58:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: 2 May 1996 13:12:40 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:6492 rec.crafts.metalworking:27742 rec.crafts.jewelry:11693

 While processed wafers are a source of silicon, there's a question
that needs to be answered first - is silicon at all soluble in silver
at temperatures you can achieve? Si is pretty soluble in aluminum,
somewhat in iron, but if you're looking for appreciable precipitation
hardening then you need a lot of dissolved silicon I think. A good
metallurgy reference might have solubility curves and phase diagrams
for Ag-Si, or not.

 Automobile pistons are typically a eutectic Al-Si mixture. If you
don't mind some aluminum in there, you can melt these easily, well
below the melting point of pure silver. The silicon is not the major 
component but at least it's already dissolved.

 Another option is using finely divided hard materials (e.g. 
silica (glass), alumina, silicon carbide, etc.) and loading the
melt with these and then cooling such that you form an ingot of
well-distributed metal matrix composite material, in this case
a silver body with included high-hardness material. You can obtain
these fillers in plate, whisker or simple granule form (all 
microscopic) and they will impart varying degrees of hardness and
toughness to the material. Of course, you will then have a much
more difficult time working the material, and subsequent heat
treatments (like flame soldering) may do unexpected things like
causing the included particles to come out to the surface, changing
the properties of the material near the joint.

 Finally, there are other alloyable metals which might produce
interesting hardness effects. Iron, platinum, other silvery or
white metals of native hardness higher than silver should raise
the hardness of the composition. How about chromium? Again, you'll
probably have a hard time getting to melt temperature on some 
of these, so look to solubility diagrams to see if you can get any
alloying.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:43 EDT 1996
Article: 27743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: 2 May 1996 17:51:59 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4masnv$5t4@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <3183AF9B.4FF9@sce.carleton.ca> <31856624.3C49@popd.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Jim Kovar (redbone1@popd.ix.netcom.com) wrote:
:    It would seem that doing any turning would loosen the chuck from the 
: spindle unless held in by a draw bar. Of course, I could be mistaken. I 
: like to have any kind of a taper mounting that I am putting side forces 
: on to be held securely.
:                           Jim

Am I missing something here?  I thought a Morse taper will hold (almost)
anything, regardless of the side loads.  Granted, a Jacobs taper is
more likely to self release, but Machinery's Handbook classes the MT as
well within the self-holding range.

I'm considering doing a #3 MT to 3/4 x 16 adapter for my Taig chucks.  Since
the load is relatively constant (unless I'm roughing a square piece or 
whatever), I would expect to be able to skip the drawbar.

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q:Helium Gas for MIg Welding?
Date: 2 May 1996 17:59:32 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4mat64$5t4@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <4m308n$hl3@butch.lmsc.lockheed.com> <4m45ce$89l@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

ErnieLeim (ernieleim@aol.com) wrote:
: All tri-mixes and argon/helium mixes are proprietary. 
: This means that you can't own the tanks, and have to rent them.


Hmm, that doesn't seem to hold in San Jose.  When I bought my Miller 130,
they offered to either sell or rent the argon/helium tank.  I bought the tank
and they then charged me for the mix.  (75% argon, 25% helium).
If memory serves, I paid about $100 for the tank and, er, maybe $40 for the
gas.  It's been a while and I haven't had to refill.

BTW, this was Arc Welding Supply in SJ, one of the larger vendors.

: That is why I use a manifold and mix it myself. I can own the tanks and
: can adjust the mix according to my needs.

Granted, the manifold seems to be a great idea.


Pete Brooks




From lucasd@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: lucasd@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Richard C Lucas)
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 18:13:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Radiator stop-cock thread
Message-ID: <101260279@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!lucasd
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <wwebster-0105960855170001@47.116.15.87>
Lines: 15

Here's my guess....

The ones I'm familiar with are a hollow screw with a closed flange on the
inside end which seal by tightening this flange against a seat.  The hollow
screw has some holes in it near the flange which allow the coolant to come out.
The left hand thread allows you to open the stopcock by "unscrewing it."  
If you used a r.h. thread, it would open up as you tightened it.

Someone once described left-hand threads as "the more you tighten it, the
looser it gets."

By the way, my air compressor tank has this kind of drain on it.

Dick Lucas
dlucas@cdc.hp.com


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:44 EDT 1996
Article: 27746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 17:44:49 GMT
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Message-ID: <101260277@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Lines: 16

Well, you could try a few different sources:

There are scientific supply companies--  I believe that one of the largest is
Scientific Products.  I'd think you'd want to get that on a will-call, unless
the UPS hazardous material policy will actually let you ship it.

Automotive supply houses should sell sulfuric, since that's battery acid.

*Some* instant plumbing solutions are concentrated sulfuric acid, *and will
tell you*.  Beware of the others--you don't want to try sodium hydroxide.
I get mine (for drains...) from OSH, the oft-maligned super-hardware store
in San Jose.  They haven't gone to the 'twice as safe and 1/10 as effective
for only twice the price' junk completely here.  Yet.

Pete Brooks



From lucasd@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: lucasd@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Richard C Lucas)
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 18:04:29 GMT
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Message-ID: <101260278@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!lucasd
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Lines: 4

Check out pool supply stores.  Pool acid is either sulphuric or hydrochloric.
I've seen both types.  The hydrochloric sometimes is labelled as "Muriatic"

Dick Lucas


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:58:45 EDT 1996
Article: 27748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 2 May 1996 19:13:28 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4mb1go$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


	I've often used the local hardware store's (Orchard Supply Hardware)
	machinery paint.

Yah, using a DuPont paint designed for auto body work is clearly
overkill. But as my friend Ed says, I'm even crazier than he is
(I've talked to at least one dealer in used SBL parts who thinks
we're both nuts for even starting to restore a standard change lathe).

I will probably try the OSH paint on the steel bench that we're going
to make for this lathe; it's a big enough structure that spraying it 
will be difficult, and it's mostly not going to be exposed so it
will not be likely to get chipped. I may spray the top surface with
the same combination of DP40 and ChromaOne, since that *will* be
exposed and I've got the stuff.

Where do you get the one-part polyurethane paints around here (I'm
in Palo Alto)? They sound like a Good Thing.

The best paint I've found in a rattlecan is Zynolite; I used the gloss
black in mass quantities when rebuilding car parts. It's lasted
five years without a nick on the suspension of my daily driver.


From bajha@usit.net Sun May  5 13:58:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!usit.net!news
From: Donna Thompson <bajha@usit.net>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: 2 May 1996 19:20:33 GMT
Organization: US Internet
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4mb1u1$79q@news.usit.net>
References: <4lunb1$msk@csugrad.cs.vt.edu> <4lv3jd$i7c@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4m01bv$k1g@dfw-ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3185CE5A.46E5@holonet.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.backcountry:121164 rec.bicycles.marketplace:66339 rec.bicycles.misc:54048 rec.bicycles.racing:55609 rec.bicycles.rides:23275 rec.bicycles.soc:27974 rec.bicycles.tech:78838 rec.birds:36849 rec.boats:104346 rec.boats.paddle:45269 rec.climbing:82046 rec.collecting:81006 rec.crafts.brewing:88195 rec.crafts.metalworking:27749 rec.crafts.misc:20778 rec.equestrian:131217 rec.folk-dancing:19438 rec.food.cooking:242367 rec.food.drink:30780 rec.food.historic:7940

Take your get rich quick scam and put it where the sun doesn't
shine. We may be horse people but were are not dumb.



donna



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun May  5 13:58:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 2 May 1996 19:47:39 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4mb3gr$d3m@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <9604300915.AA07249@128.194.179.45>
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To: tmanning@tamu.edu

You can buy "International Reply Coupons" at some post offices
that you can enclose with a letter and the person at the other
end can cash them in at his post office for postage.  They ain't
cheap, but it's one way of doing an international SASE.

As far as actually *ordering* something from overseas, use a
charge card number.  It get charged in the local currency at 
their end, gets changed to your local currency by the credit 
card company (at a very good rate), and appears on your bill 
like any other charge.

There are some places in the U.S. (I assume you're U.S.) that
carry the Quorn kit.  I think Power Model Supply is one dealer.




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun May  5 13:58:46 EDT 1996
Article: 27751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: 2 May 1996 19:49:08 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4mb3jk$d3m@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4m32ki$4vo@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <9604300915.AA07249@128.194.179.45>
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To: tmanning@tamu.edu

Oh yeah - Prof. Chaddock is the person who designed the Quorn.




From peter.orban@nrc.ca Sun May  5 13:58:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!torn!nott!nrcnet0.nrc.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: peter.orban@nrc.ca (Peter Orban)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: IBM Selectric typewriter repair
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 10:34:38 -0400
Organization: NRC
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.246.72.31

I picked up an older IBM typewriter, I think it is a version of a
Selectric (no visible type number on it), with the ball head. When I
plugged it in, the head wiggled a couple of times and then the motor
stopped running. So how would I go about cleaning, repairing such a beast
myself? Any books or other pointers describing the innards of the machine?

Thanks for your help, Peter
-- 
Peter Orban
National Research Council of Canada
peter.orban@nrc.ca


From christ@lexis-nexis.com Sun May  5 13:58:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!lexis-nexis!christ
From: christ@lexis-nexis.com (Chris Tilton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: arc welding sheet metal.
Date: 2 May 1996 21:09:58 GMT
Organization: Lexis-Nexis, Dayton OH
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4mb8b6$nj@mailgate.lexis-nexis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kojak.lexis-nexis.com

Any pointers on arc welding sheet metal?  I am going to help
my son weld a new floorboard on his '64 pickup truck that
he is restoring.  I heard that there are special powdered
(as opposed to solid) welding rods that are less likely
to melt a hole in the sheet metal.  Is this accurate? 

Any other pointers, tips?  

-- 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
J. Chris Tilton               "Crossing his legs and frantically
Lackey & Software Engineer     looking for a rest area on the
Lexis-Nexis                    information superhighway..."
(A Reed/Elsevier company)      
                                 
513-865-6800 ext. 6042          
chris.tilton@lexis-nexis.com           
_________________________________________________________




From mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu Sun May  5 13:58:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!hermes.louisville.edu!news
From: mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu (Terry McCreary)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 17:17:45 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3188d1ab.0@isnt.mursuky.edu>
References: <berry-2904961021380001@netnews.upenn.edu>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) wrote:

>Several folks asked me to post this description of how to silver glass
>(i.e., make mirrors.)  Here it is.
 <snipped>

Regarding sources of chemicals for silvering:  check first with your
local high school chemistry teacher, and bring the silvering procedure
with you.  You might interest him/her enough to actually do the
procedure there!

Or see if the nearby university has a stockroom that will sell the
chemicals to you.  Again, bring the procedure along and explain what
you're trying to do.

If neither of these works, the back pages of Popular Science lists
chemical vendors that will sell to individuals.

Incidentally, an alternative procedure I mentioned before is the
Martin method.  It can be found in "How to Make a Telescope", J.
Texereau (either edition).  It's rather long and I prefer not to
violate copyright laws by posting it here, but the local library (if
large) should have a copy on hand.

Finally, vacuum aluminizing doesn't tarnish, lasts longer than silver,
and isn't that much more expensive for small mirrors.  If it's
feasable to aluminize the object, check "Astronomy" or "Sky and
Telescope" magazine for sources.

T. McCreary
"I don't need a disclaimer.  Everyone knows that I don't know what I'm
talking about."



From morton@interserv.com Sun May  5 13:58:47 EDT 1996
Article: 27755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!news1.sprynet.com!news
From: morton@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: We offer 20% discount on Sherline products
Date: 1 May 1996 06:14:03 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4m6vfb$4c2@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <4m1i1p$car@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ad09-045.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>   nhayes4793@aol.com (NHayes4793) writes:
>  Well, my wife has finally caved in and decided it's easier to let me buy a
>  sherline lathe than listen to me dream about it.  So if things go well
>  I'll be buying one in the next couple of weeks.
>  
>  I have contacted sherline for the price, and even though I live only an
>  hour or so from their plant it's cheaper for me to buy it from Blue Ridge
>  Machinery on the east coast.
>  
>  I can understand that sherline doesn't want to undercut their
>  distributors, so now I'm hoping to find one with good pricing somewhere in
>  southern California.
>  
>  Does anyone know of a distributor in the L.A area with good pricing.
>  
>  Thanks for any help
>  
>  
>>>>
Mr. Hayes,
   We are Sherline reps in Los Angeles, and offer a 20% discount from orders initiated from the web.  Sometime in the next thirty 
days I hope to have an order form at my website, with a built-in multiplier to discount 20% off the list price.  You can order by 
calling my office, faxing an order and sending one in.  Visit us at http://www.mortonmachinery.com  And if you want to avoid 
the shipping cost, then come pick it up in our offices.  In stock right now I have the deluxe lathe and mill.
  Thank you.
-- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Co., Inc., Los Angeles, California
Phone 213-627-2881 or  FAx 213-583-8693 or morton@interserv.com


From morton@interserv.com Sun May  5 13:58:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!news1.sprynet.com!news
From: morton@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Milling Machine Tables - Free download
Date: 1 May 1996 06:21:40 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4m6vtk$4c2@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <4lsbia$o2j@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ad09-045.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>   jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
>  brian stewart (kalish1@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>  
>  : Can anybody tell me what would be the perfect milling machine for
>  : making gun parts.  I am a licensed collector of curio and relic
>  : firearms and would like to be able to manufacture my own parts to
>  : repair obsolete rifles and pistols.  Also, should I purchase a used
>  : machine or buy one of the new ones.  I figure the biggest part would be
>  : twelve inches long and no more than four inches thick.  
>  
>  Well, with 12" parts, I think the Sherline-size machines are too small.
>  I have an Antique Bridgeport in my basement, and I really like it.  I
>  have an Enco 3-in-1 machine at work, and I DON'T like it!  I think a
>  knee-type machine is a real plus, but the bench machines with movable
>  head can be used, with some small disadvantages.  Most of them lose
>  the X (and a little bit of Y) position of the head when you have to elevate
>  it.  Anyway, if you have the room, an old Bridgeport or other small,
>  knee-type machine is a lot better built than some of the cheaper import
>  machines.  Beware that the old, Bridgeport M-series head usually comes
>  with the Brown & Sharpe #7 spindle taper, which is a lot less common than
>  the R-8 taper on the newer machines.
>  
Brian,
  I see a lot of questions about "what type of mill" advise.  So, I put together a spreadsheet of a number of builders of knee type 
vertical mills.  You can see it and download it for free from my home page http://www.mortonmachinery.com
  Hope you find it helpful.
  -- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Co., Inc. Los Angeles, Calif.

>  
>>>>



From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun May  5 13:58:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Paint
Date: 2 May 1996 21:33:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4mb9mq$e1o@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <4mb1go$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

> Where do you get the one-part polyurethane paints around here (I'm
> in Palo Alto)? They sound like a Good Thing.

I found them at Home Base (I think they're out of business).  I know 
West Marine (at typically marine prices, cough) has 'em in the catalog.

> The best paint I've found in a rattlecan is Zynolite; I used the gloss
> black in mass quantities when rebuilding car parts. It's lasted
> five years without a nick on the suspension of my daily driver.

Yup.  Zynolite is great stuff; we used this to paint a boat white many
years ago; the boat is now lying out in a pasture, a victim of delaminating
fiberglass.  The paint is a bit chaulky now, but still pretty servicable
many years of sun exposure later.

- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com Sun May  5 13:58:48 EDT 1996
Article: 27758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cyanamid.com!news
From: Bruce Freeman <freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 2 May 1996 22:06:23 GMT
Organization: American Cyanamid
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4mbbkv$l4g@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <4m86cv$325@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.173.56.33

barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders) wrote:
>
> One nice thing is that the hydrochloric acid seems to be much
> easier on cotton clothes than sulfuric - when I used to use
> sulfuric acid in Chem 101 (some 20 years ago - eek!) I often 
> ended up with a hole or two in my jeans...
> 

Just thought folks might want to know that the reason for the above
observation is that hydrochloric is volatile, where is sulfuric is
almost non-volatile.  (That makes hydrochloric more dangerous in terms
of fumes, but sulfuric is the stronger acid.)  Even dilute sulfuric 
dribbled on clothes will eat holes, as the water evaporates and leaves
concentrated sulfuric.

Bruce


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun May  5 13:58:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying Band Saw Blades
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 09:56:35 -0700
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <3188E943.226C@helix.shr.dec.com>
References: <4m2svs$jmr@news1.mtholyoke.edu> <4m43pk$7ll@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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To: Edk4 <edk4@aol.com>

Here's an idea for you: buy pre-made blade slightly
longer than you need, cut it to length, and silver
solder it back together yourself.  Properly done,
a silver soldered joint is plenty strong, a not too
difficult to do.

Quick summary of how to do it:

Make a jig of some kind to hold the ends of the blade
in proper alignment.  This can be made out of a piece
of angle iron, with a notch taken out of the middle of
it and a couple of tapped holes for clamps.  Arrange
so the blade sits inside the angle, up against the
corner, held by the clamps, with the two ends hanging
out in midair in the notch you made in the center section
of the length of angle iron.

Grind a taper on the ends of the blade so they overlap.
If you flip one end of the blade over you can grind both
ends at the same time and the angles will match even if
they're not exactly at 90 degrees.

Make sure tapers are scrupulously clean (no oily fingers!),
apply flux, clamp blade in the jig so the tapers overlap
and everything is aligned, heat with propane torch from
the bottom and touch some silver solder to the top of the
joint.  When it flows, remove heat, let cool, remove from
jig, file off any lumps, and you're set.


From randymshr@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: randymshr@aol.com (Randy Mshr)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find SS screen
Date: 1 May 1996 21:48:12 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 22
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4m948s$4a@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4m0bif$r2@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: randymshr@aol.com (Randy Mshr)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Regarding lauter plate material/ss screen. What you are looking for is
perforated sheet, rather than screen, so be sure to ask for it this way. 

It would be worth your while to check around the surplus and salvage shops
in your area, if there are any. Perf is not too common, but not too rare,
either. You could save yourself ten bucks a pound or more.

I managed to find some thin ss sheets that were intended to be used as
side panels for some electrical device, There was a 4" x 18" area of
narrow louver slots cut into each sheet. I just cut out the good bits and
riveted them together. It's been making great beer for six years now.

As far as material, it doesn't matter too much. If it's non-magnetic
stainless it will work just fine for a lauter screen. Probably the least
thermally and chemically stressed ss in the process!

Happy brewing,

--Randy Mosher

If you are in the Chicago are, send me a note and I'll tell you where to
look.


From James.Foster@cdc.com Sun May  5 13:58:49 EDT 1996
Article: 27761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!usenet
From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: IBM Selectric typewriter repair
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 12:18:44 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <3188EE74.42F8@cdc.com>
References: <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31>
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Peter Orban wrote:
> 
> I picked up an older IBM typewriter, I think it is a version of a
> Selectric (no visible type number on it), with the ball head. When I
> plugged it in, the head wiggled a couple of times and then the motor
> stopped running. So how would I go about cleaning, repairing such a beast
> myself?

I'm not sure I would. They seem pretty complicated to me. One thing you
might want to look at is the motor lubrication. I had a similar problem
on one I had that hadn't been used for a while. I turned it on an
nothing
happened. I popped the top and noticed that it appeared that the motor
was getting voltage but not turning. I used a light machine oil of some
kind (probably the wrong kind, but I didn't really use the thing anymore
and didn't care that much if it didn't work again) on the motor spindle.
I don't recall that it was possible to rotate anything by hand. I think
the motor just started after letting the oil penetrate for a while and
turning it on and off a few times. You might want to check this route
and
see if there are any fuses in the chassis that might have gone open.


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun May  5 13:58:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <182@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Wed, 01 May 1996 21:53:21 GMT
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Lines: 32

 
In article <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>, Chester A. Roberts, Jr. (ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) writes:
>
>I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
>silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
>recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
>the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
...

I was unhappy about having sulphuric acid in the house when my kids
were younger, so I chose to use citric acid.  This is commonly
available in chemists (drug stores) and commercial suppliers,
usually in powder/crystal form. Worth shopping around for a good
price, although you won't need so much.  I bought 3Kg in 1Kg tubs,
and I still have 1.5 tubs after four or five years of pickling
assorted stuff (including a largish boiler).

Even a saturated solution isn't especially dangerous, although I
wouldn't hesitate to rinse my skin if splashed, and wear rubber
gloves and eye protection when appropriate. 

It isn't quite as effective as sulphuric, but it does work - just
takes a little longer.  It's also easier to get rid of when you've
finished with it. It certainly doesn't have that nasty sharp
smell that sulphuric has!

It's certainly worth a try, if you can't get better.




 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From aspler@ganoksin.com Sun May  5 13:58:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nectec!usenet
From: aspler@ganoksin.com (Dr. E. Aspler (Hanuman))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ORCHID
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 14:50:49 GMT
Organization: Ganoksin Jewelry Co.Ltd.
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4malpb$568@senior.nectec.or.th>
Reply-To: aspler@ganoksin.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mozart.inet.co.th
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.46

ORCHID is comining soon

please follow up. A new era in the information of jewellery
manufacturing technique data on the web.

ORCHID is coming soon.

In the mean time use the Tips from the jeweler's bench search engine
at:

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm



From aspler@ganoksin.com Sun May  5 13:58:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nectec!usenet
From: aspler@ganoksin.com (Dr. E. Aspler (Hanuman))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: If you are a metalsmith You don't want to miss this info
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 14:51:16 GMT
Organization: Ganoksin Jewelry Co.Ltd.
Lines: 112
Message-ID: <4malq6$568@senior.nectec.or.th>
Reply-To: aspler@ganoksin.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mozart.inet.co.th
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.46

Read the following articles on line at the

"Tips from the jeweler's bench - search engine"


http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

(ORCHID is coming soon)

 Articles by Charles Lewton-Brain

   1.On Jewellery Career Options 
   2.An investing procedure for lost wax casting 
   3.Keum-Boo 
   4.Some thoughts on Fire scale 
   5.Cleaning Metal Surfaces 
   6.Brief Notes on Shakudo 
   7.Jewellery Repair 
   8.Files From the book "Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop" 
   9.Shop Machines About Anvils, Buffing Machines, Casting Machines,
Drill Press Machines, Flexible
     Shafts, Hydraulic Press Machines, Rolling Mills and more... 
  10.Notes on Gemstone Fluorescence 


Some recommended books for Self Education:

     Diamond Setting 
     Bead Setting Diamonds 
     Channel Setting Diamonds
     Source: 
     Robert Wooding,
     Dry Ridge Co,
     PO Box 18814, Erlanger,
     Kentucky, 41018, USA


     The Complete Metalsmith - Tim McCreight 
     Practical Casting - Tim McCreight 
     Jewellery Making Manual - Sylvia Wicks 
     Practical Jewelry Rendering - Tim McCreight 
     The Complete Metalsmith Video
     Source:
     Tim McCreight,
     Brynmorgen Press,
     33 Woodland Road,
     Cape Elizabeth, Maine,
     04101, USA


     Basic Wax Modelling 
     Practical Wax modelling by Hiroshi Tsuyuki and Yoko Ohba,
     Source:
     ASQ Corporation
     17356 West Twelve Mile Road
     Suite 200
     Southfield, MI , 48076, USA
     Tel: 313-557-3170


     Professional Goldsmithing
     Alan Revere, Van Nostrand Reinhold, NY
     ISBN 0-442-23898-3
     Source:
     Revere Academy,
     Suite 900, 
     760 Market Street,
     San Francisco, CA, 94102, USA

     Get the complete set of Alan Revere videos as they come out.
     Source:
     Rio Grande,
     6901 Washington NE,
     Albuquerque, NM 87109, USA
     Tel: 800-545-6566 

     Practical Goldsmith: Mounting, Settings 
     Practical Goldsmith: Modelling 
     Practical Goldsmith: Mounting 4, Joints, Electroplating
     Source:
     Ruhle-Diebener Verlag
     Postfach 70 04 50
     D-70574 Stuttgart, Germany 

     Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop
     Charles Lewton-Brain
     Source:
     Brain Press,
     Box 1624,
     Ste M, Calgary, Alberta, T2P 1N3 

     Designing Jewelry M. Galli, D. Riviere, Fanfan Li
     The Art of Jewelry Design M. Galli, D. Riviere, Fanfan Li
     (These are both books with numerous examples of traditional
jewelry renderings)
     Source:
     Schiffer Publishing Co,
     77 Lower Valley Road,
     Atglen, PA, 19310 

     For studying gemology:
     Gem Testing get the latest edition by Anderson (and Webster) 
     Handbook of Gem Identification (latest edition) by Richard
Liddicoat 
     Gemstones of the World by Walter Schumann.
     These three books offer a very good start on the field. 


Dr. Aspler
http://www.ganoksin.com/
aspler@ganoksin.com



From vince49@usa.pipeline.com Sun May  5 13:58:50 EDT 1996
Article: 27765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: vince49@usa.pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...
Date: 1 May 1996 11:20:18 GMT
Organization: PSINet/Pipeline USA
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4m7hdi$1hl@news2.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
References: <4m2ttu$fp9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.8.61.2

In article <4m2ttu$fp9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, Peter Brooks writes: 
 
 
>that there's a rather good way to build up really worn beds and ways..I
think 
>the material is called Turksite, though with my second-hand hearing (bone 
 
 
Please don't tease. where can we get it and how much is it ?  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Vinny Genovese ; I wish I had a clever quote.


From Firstname.Lastname@UCHSC.edu Sun May  5 13:58:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!tali.UCHSC.edu!chris
From: Firstname.Lastname@UCHSC.edu (Your Name)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 2 May 1996 20:38:51 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado Health Sciences Center
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4mb6gr$4g7@tali.UCHSC.edu>
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Three possibilities-
1- buy it at an automotive parts store (used in car batteries)
2- buy at a jewelry supply or welding supply
3- don't use sulfuric acid, but a safer 'cousin', sodium bisulfate, sold 
as a silver solder pickle under the name 'Sparex', at jewelry supply 
store, or cheaper at a pool and spa chemical supply store to adjust the 
pH of water.



In article <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>, 
ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu says...
>
>
>I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
>silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
>recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
>the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
>I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
>listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
>quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
>acid?
>
>Regards, Chet



From morton@interserv.com Sun May  5 13:58:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!news1.sprynet.com!news
From: morton@interserv.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sheldon Lathe Resource Material
Date: 1 May 1996 06:23:49 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4m701l$4c2@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <4m01q7$f6j@kaleka.seanet.com>
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)


Bob,
  If you call me in my office (800-275-1240), I can look up Sheldon and see if they show a rep or a factory phone number for 
you.  I am a used machinery dealer and have a shelf full of those type of resource guides.
  -- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Co , Los Angeles, Ca


From morton@interserv.com Sun May  5 13:58:51 EDT 1996
Article: 27768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!news1.sprynet.com!news
From: Mark Rogo <morton@interserv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Free Download of Vertical Mill Tables
Date: 1 May 1996 06:29:32 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4m70cc$4c2@juliana.sprynet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ad09-045.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

I"ve always noticed a lot of "what kind of mill" questions on this newsgroup.  So, I put together some research material and 
have tables (spreadsheets) of specs and prices of a number of different knee type vertical mill builders at my web site.  You can 
also download them individually if you like.  Hope this is helpful.  Next on the agenda is the same for small tool room lathes.

But let me caution people downloading this information.  The actual options available are far more extensive than what I listed.  
I tried to keep it simple.  It's only meant as a guideline.  But based on the specs and their comparison from one to another, it's 
not hard to determine the best mill for your application and the price you should be paying for it.

I would love to receive comments and suggestions after you view the site.  Point yourself to http://www.mortonmachinery.com 
and you'll find it linked directly from the home page.

Thank you.

-- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Co, Los Angeles, California


From mettlewk@cris.com Sun May  5 13:58:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news
From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding instruction needed.  Where do I go?
Date: 2 May 1996 22:24:41 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4mbcn9$oan@tribune.concentric.net>
References: <Dqs2Io.32A@mv.mv.com>
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Dunwoody Institute in Minneapolis has a consistantly high rating from 
everybody I've ever talked to. 

Good luck

Dunwoody Institute   (612) 374-5800
818 Dunwoody Blvd
Minneapolis, MN 55403

Gene
-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, 
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:58:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail
From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 2 May 1996 19:52:04 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4mbhr4INNbl4@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <4jukqn$bbo@engnews1.eng.sun.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960425151640.22484Q-100000@reliant>
Reply-To: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> writes:
>I used to and still do, use a wireing trick in my shop.  I use an
>appropriate three conductor wire with ground to all the outlet boxes.
>Then I connect the white and the copper to ground, the black to A phase
>and the red to B phase.  Now I have 110 from either red or black to the
>nuetral, and 220 from red to black.  For 110 outlets I split the outlet
Text cut short here to allow this short response to pass the response
longer than the original requirement.

How about going one more step in convenience and put two 110v *plugs*
on the 220v input cable to the appliance.  Then you would not have to
tear apart the boxes on the wall.  Also *anyone* seeing two plugs
hanging on the end of a single cable would know something is a little
different and should be careful.  Also you are doubeling up on the
neutral and ground contacts which should make their current carrying
capacity better.  The 110v plugs and sockets should of course be with
    grounding pins so that the plugs will only fit the sockets in
their correct orientation.  Interchanging the plugs from time to time
should make no diff.

This is definately a wierd idea but if we can consider running air in
PVC pipe we can consider the above in this group, can't we?

ken
bethesda, md


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:58:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Message-ID: <1996May2.221653.19167@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <1996Apr25.133922.11993@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4lpped$46h@news.dx.net>
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 22:16:53 GMT
Lines: 18

In article <4lpped$46h@news.dx.net>, James D. Szura <jds@cmaster.com> wrote:
>How about a bench grinder with a "green" silicon carbide wheel.
>
>Been using mine for ten + years, no problem. Total cost 50-60 bucks.

That works well for the initial shaping, but I'd like to get a better
finish on the tools.  As a "for-instance", you can use a grinder for
initial shaping of a scraper blade, but you'd better not use that
blade for finish scraping as the chips and jaggies on the edge will
ruin the work in a hurry.

So it's not the grinding of carbide that's the problem, it's the final
finish and angles I'd like to perfect.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Sun May  5 13:58:52 EDT 1996
Article: 27772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplntx!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: 2 May 1996 23:14:39 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <rich_klopp-0205961615450001@128.18.30.31>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <4maika$mbl@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

> > I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely 
> >non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
> >continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
> >gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an 
> >8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet.
> 
> Also consider sapphire or ceramic (alumina) tubing - does it *have*
> to be bent?
> 

If it's to be a heating element, it has to be conductive, which sapphire &
alumina (which is mostly polycrystalline sapphire) are not. Silicon
carbide ceramic is a nonmagnetic semiconductor, and titanium diboride
ceramic is a nonmagnetic condiuctor, though rather expensive. How about
graphite heating elements?

-- 
Rich Klopp                      Do your parents know you're in here?
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From jsp@u.washington.edu Sun May  5 13:58:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.u.washington.edu!saul3.u.washington.edu!jsp
From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 19:00:51 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960502185726.20649B-100000@saul3.u.washington.edu>
References: <1996Apr25.133922.11993@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4lpped$46h@news.dx.net> <1996May2.221653.19167@bbxrbk.basis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: saul3.u.washington.edu
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NNTP-Posting-User: jsp
To: Russ Kepler <russ@bbxrbk.basis.com>
In-Reply-To: <1996May2.221653.19167@bbxrbk.basis.com>

I often use silicon carbide wet and dry sandpaper to polish tool bits that
I have ground.  The 400 to 600 grit stuff does okay for this.  Worthless
for shaping.........
				Cheers,




From brainnet@cadvision.com Sun May  5 13:58:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!rex.cadvision.com!cadb54.cadvision.com!user
From: brainnet@cadvision.com (Charles Lewton-Brain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 19:46:41 -0600
Organization: Brain Press
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <brainnet-0205961946410001@cadb54.cadvision.com>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <4maika$mbl@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cadb54.cadvision.com

Consider Niobium, platinum (ouch$), as well.

For info on titanium try:

Bill Seeley
Reactive metals
800-876-3434

and

 http://www.titanium.com/tech.html 
Titanium industries reference site.

Good luck

Charles

-- 
Charles Lewton-Brain
Brain Press, Box 1624 Ste M
Calgary, Alberta, T2P 2L7, Canada
fax:403-283-9053
Email: brainnet@cadvision.com


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sun May  5 13:58:53 EDT 1996
Article: 27775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!amd!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clock & Watch FTP sites and Web pages
Message-ID: <1996May2.172731.883@flying-disk.com>
Date: 2 May 96 17:27:31 PDT
References: <3187e173.885720@192.0.2.3> <keithclaDqr2A8.6B3@netcom.com>
Followup-To: alt.california,alt.horology,la.general,la,news,lathe.general,netcom.shell.www,
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 20

In article <keithclaDqr2A8.6B3@netcom.com>, 
keithcla@netcom.com (Keith Clark) writes:

Posted to, and follow-ups trimmed to rec.crafts.metalworking only
(originally posted to 14 different newsgroups).

> BTW, did you know the His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, likes repairing 
> watches -- and sometimes just takes them apart so he can put them back 
> together again. Apparently he's become fairly good at it.

Just a random thought: Wouldn't it be neat if someone like Sherline
sent the Dalai Lama a lathe and a mill, along with a copy of the rules
for their NAMES contest?   Just think what someone with infinite
patience could do.   Just think of the publicity for them and the
hobby!

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From cwh@aloft.att.com Sun May  5 13:58:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntphub.cb.att.com!news
From: "Carl W. Hoffmeyer" <cwh@aloft.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum foundry - ala Gingery
Date: 2 May 1996 21:44:38 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Columbus, Ohio
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4mbac6$2vk@nntpa.cb.att.com>
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X-URL: news:rec.crafts.metalworking/25328-25427#4malpb$568@senior.nectec.or.th

I have a small shop and I'm about to take the next step - aluminum casting.

I've read Gingery and visited a local alum. foundry.  I came away with a few 
hundred pounds of material they were casting alum in.  It is a fine (the owner
said 90 grit), dark brown material and has a slight phenolic odor.  It doesn't
*look* like sand.  He also gave me a small can of "Southern Bentonite".

Ques: 1. What is this brown "sand"?  Presumably, after mixing with a *small*
amount of Bentonite and then tempering (dampening) it should serve for
casting.
2. What about constructing the furnace from this stuff?  If mixed with clay
and then tempered will it fire, i.e. vitrify correctly? Or am I going to have
to go looking for silca sand again?
3. I'm looking for sources of crucibles, tongs, etc. in the Allentown, PA area.

Thanks for any help,
Carl Hoffmeyer



From goldstar@1stop.com Sun May  5 13:58:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!cuaa9
From: goldstar@1stop.com (Bob Bickers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: Thu, 02 May 96 06:00:29 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4mbpol$gi1@kaleka.seanet.com>
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4l2k6h$f23@news1.h1.usa.pipeline.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG> <4m3q5e$pi7@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cuaa9.1stop.com
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

I have delt with Enco for about 10 yrs now and I shop [read examine] them very 
carefully, I'd never buy a machine tool from them but, thier 3 mikes for $30 
deal can't be beat. Sure I'd like to be able to afford Starret, but I can't, 
however there are times when nothing less will do. I feel it pays to look and 
go away and think about it, it took me 3 mos. to buy a 4jaw from them and for 
the $150 it cost it was a reasonable deal in the end. In short its the ol 
buyers beware. Bob
PS If its not in stock or they cant tell me where its at I usually dont buy.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:58:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!op.net!news.ironhorse.com!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: chemical silvering
Message-ID: <1996May2.210111.18705@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <1996Apr27.094330.3816@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <3182d290.0@isnt.mursuky.edu> <4m9a8a$hfr$1@perth.dialix.oz.au>
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 21:01:11 GMT
Lines: 14

In article <4m9a8a$hfr$1@perth.dialix.oz.au>,
Brendan Tibbs <brendant@perth.DIALix.oz.au> wrote:
>any info on the silvering procedures would be very much appreciated by
>many !!!   

Lindsey Publications has a small pamphlet on mirror silvering.  You
can reach Lindsey in Chicago using 815-935-5353.  The title is _How to
Make Mirrors_, and seems to be a 1930's reprint.  Sorry, I don't have
any additional identification.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:54 EDT 1996
Article: 27779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:39:31 GMT
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Message-ID: <101260272@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com>
Lines: 27

Hmm, I'd had pretty good luck with the San Jose store.  I've had orders that
haven't been shipped for a long time, *but* I didn't have to commit any
money until the shipment came in.

The store manager works the counter between 5PM and 5:30 (closing), which
is usually the timeframe that I can get there.  He's sometimes pretty busy, 
but he'll do his best to serve customers.  I've seen him send away a 
delivery trucker (who should have been there at 2PM), but customers get 
service.

BTW, not all the Enco stuff is Chinese.  A lot of the small tools are made
in India (whether this is an improvement is open for debate), and they do sell
some USA made stuff.

I'll go by quality price and service.  Enco has had a lot of my business 
(though 99% of it is from the San Jose store), but I have a Sherline mill 
and an Atlas shaper.  I just keep in mind that the Chinese stuff is "a kit 
of parts rather than a complete machine tool".  With that in mind, I 
haven't been burned.

I'll be checking out the Rutland outlet, but a lot of their stuff seems to
be rather pricy.  For my purposes, I may end up staying with a combination
of used and Enco gear, perhaps with the occasional Grizzley tool sent down
>from  Seattle.

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:43:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Message-ID: <101260273@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
Lines: 20

"Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com> /  7:14 pm  Apr 27, 1996 /
edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:


>This 'might' be the article you are referring to:
>
>        "An Assist from the Forge"
>        HANCOCK, CLIFFORD
>        HSM 88 J/A 50 (July/August 1988 issue of Home Shop Machinist???)
>

I'm afraid not--It's on how to do forging for various tools in the shop.  The
only burner plans I've seen in the books use a gas or propane burner made
out of pipe.  There's an article on it in the 'backyard foundry' series by
some author whose name I have a hard time pronouncing/remembering.  (Good
Polish name--not Gingery).

Pete Brooks
>----------
>


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:58:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:54:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Best price on sherline in south Cal.
Message-ID: <101260274@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Lines: 8

Actually, even though I live in San Jose, I ordered my Sherline Mill from
Eastern Tool and Supply in Manhattan.  It was actually shipped from San Marcos,
but it was at least 10% off list.  There was a package price, but I don't
remember the numbers.  Eastern advertises in HSM, or you can get the
number from Switchboard.

Pete Brooks



From quahog@netnet.net Sun May  5 13:58:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: quahog@netnet.net (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Iron Worker - model ???
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 03:29:07 GMT
Organization: Oak Orchard
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4mbteg$ssk@laslo.netnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.70.72.35
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Someone told me that they saw an Iron Worker (model number forgotten)
listed as for sale in this group.  If so, I can't find the posting.
Would someone please repost the item, or e-mail details to me.

Thanks,

Dave B.



From erikl@shore.net Sun May  5 13:58:55 EDT 1996
Article: 27783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: erikl@shore.net (Cryptical)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Barnes lathe advice needed
Date: 3 May 1996 04:06:46 GMT
Organization: North Shore Access
Lines: 61
Message-ID: <4mc0om$ngd@shore.shore.net>
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In article <3188E613.121F@unirsvl.com>, rfra@unirsvl.com says...
>
>Bob Frazier wrote:
>> 
>> I have an opportunity to buy an antique lathe. I want to do some
>> basic gunsmithing and other things as they come up. This is the least
>> expensive real lathe I have found, about $400. It appears to have been
>> converted to electric from some other power, maybe steam or water? At any
>> rate it has a series of wood pulleys to adjust speed and an electric
>> motor (110) to drive it. Patent date is 1887, and it comes with a steady
>> rest, rocker tool post, and a small face plate. The name Barnes is not
>> familiar to me, but then I'm not nearly as old as this machine! The ways
>> appear somewhat chipped and dinged up, as it has not been idle all this
>> time. I'm not familiar with scraping or making new bearings, but this
>> seems a good time to learn. Any thoughts about this would be
>> appreciated! It would fit in with my Buffalo Forge drill press of the
>> same vintage! I looked over this lathe more carefully yesterday. The salesman 
said it was
>converted from a treadle! I noticed a few problems. Some I have solutions for, 
others
>have got me stumped.    
>1. no chuck                                             apply money
>2  back gear eccentric which engages gears loose        new bearing?
>3  steady rest base missing                             make one
>4  some gears are here. obviously some missing.         find or make some
>5  planetary gear not bolted(?)                         ?
>        This last one has got me stumped as I don't know what the planetary gear 
is
>for or why someone would take the bolt out of one. It makes a noise inside as the
>spindle is rotated. 
>        The tailstock is a #1 morse taper so maybe one thing about this lathe 
will not 
>be a custom proposition! The toolpost is wider than normal - salesman says this
>means cheaper tools are available. Hmmm.
>                I think I will make a low offer and see what happens!
>        Bob Frazier     rfra@unirsvl.com


I just bought probably the exact same Lathe here in Massachussetes Last night. It 
is still in the back of my Van. It is in Very good shape and has all the gears and 
 a good amount of tooling including:
3Jaw chuck
2 face plates
Tool holders
Steady Rest
Tail Stock and Drill Chuck
Milling Attachment
Wrenches
Cutters ect.

I paid $125.00 for the entire thing.

I have a good metal Lathe and I will probably just set this old beauty up to turn 
wood. I would be interested in any information or literature you may find.


Thanks


Erik Larson



From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:58:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re:RADIUS TURNING TOOL QESTION
Date: 3 May 1996 04:22:18 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 30
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4mc1lq$pqo@usenetz1.news.prodigy.com>
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>Couldn't you use a center in the tailstock to do -both-? First, close in 
on
>the center til it just touches for a full sweep of the bit, (as far as
>allowable anyway) Then, back off the tool until you measure the radius 
you
>want from the point of the center to the tip of the tool.
>
>
>pdrumm@dwave.net
>Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
>Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
>All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
>

That sounds like a good idea; I will try that when it is finished.  
Should work for small radius.  Would be dificult for large radius because 
the tool bit must be short so it will clear the frame.  The short tool 
bit cannot be extended to the center of rotation without falling out.

The radius turning tool is an interesting tool with many challenges.  
This one has a set screw with a ball in it for a lower bearing.  I've 
just discovered that there is .020" clearance between the tool holder and 
the frame.  By adjusting the set screw, you raise or lower the cutting 
tool height by .010"
Cool.

-
DENNIS WODTLI  VBTM10A@prodigy.com  Portland, OR, USA




From BEZINQUE@pop3.CRIS.COM Sun May  5 13:58:56 EDT 1996
Article: 27785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Bezinque <BEZINQUE@pop3.CRIS.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: 3 May 1996 03:55:37 GMT
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NOTE:  This was created in Eudora Light with Word Wrap turned on.

Hi there!!!  I just read your post on Usenet and thought I would take a few 
moments to send you an email to tell you what I thought of it.  It's like this.  
Usenet newsgroups are used and read by *millions* of people around the world every 
day.  Sometime a new user makes a ligitimate mistake.  More rarely, an experienced 
user will make a ligitimate mistake.  Others dileberately abuse the system and 
waste the time of these *millions* of Usenet readers.  This can happen in one or 
more of several ways.

First, the poster may post to the wrong newsgroup.  The most common error is to 
post a "test".  The newsgroup, "alt.test" has been specifically set aside for this 
purpose so please post your tests there.  Secondly, the poster can post to a lot 
of newsgroups at the same time.  This kind of post, to many newsgroups is called a 
"spam" and the person who does it is called a "spammer".

Persons such as myself have a tendency to resent it when you do something like 
this.  We have several methods of retaliating.  The first is to email a "flame" to 
you, the poster.  A "flame" is a message that is hateful, sometimes contains rude 
or even obscene language, or goes on and on ranting and raving on some topic or at 
some person.  Another tactic is to write your postmaster and ask them to pull you 
account and kick you out.  Finally, we can send you a large nember of LONNNG and 
*irrelivant* email messages until you get the idea (After all, you sent us an 
*irrelivant* post).

In this particular instance, I have chosen to give you the benifit of a doubt and 
assume that you have made a legitimate error and responded by sending you this 
nice letter.  Perhaps the error was on my part and I failed to understand the 
point of your post.  In this circumstance I recomend that you rewrite and then 
*proof read* your post.  Finally, ask yourself the question "Is this appropriate 
to this Usenet newsgroup?".

On the other hand it may be that you are a spammer. In this case, I am directing 
the paragraph below to you specifically.

Over a period of time, spammers often suffer the punishment of the primative 
machine.  It is simply this.  "May your organs of gender become entangled in a 
large machine opperating at an excruciatingly low speed.  May you then discover 
that you are alone and that the stop button is just out of reach".

Copylefted April 29, 1996 by David Bezinque

BEZINQUE@pop3.cris.com



From rhager@millcomm.com Sun May  5 13:58:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Tin sheet
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 23:48:22 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <31898206.529A@millcomm.com>
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JHrisoulas wrote:
> 
> Here's a hard one, and maybe someone out there could help.
> 
> I am looking for pure tin sheet, in 0.007" thickness. I have called all
> over the US and no one seems to be able to tell me where I can get some. I> know it is available as I have a sheet right here...;
 
> THANK YOU! Jim Hrisoulas

-- 

Jim,

You might try Goodfellow.  Don't know if they have what you need, but they 
distribute all kinds of high-purity metals and compounds.  Be prepared to pay, 
though!  Their stuff is typically used for magnetron sputtering of thin films, 
etc..  High quality goods and prices to match.

In 1994 their phone was 1-800-821-2870 or 610-640-1612

Hope it works for you!

                       Richard Hager

-              Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.            +
-              Precision Affordable CNC              +
-   ahha@gdic.com  www.gdic.com/ahha   +
-      612-641-1797  Fax 612-641-8681      +
-      (For info,  please call ah-ha directly)     +


From BEZINQUE@pop3.CRIS.COM Sun May  5 13:58:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Bezinque <BEZINQUE@pop3.CRIS.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: 3 May 1996 04:02:05 GMT
Organization: The Bezinque Family
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NOTE:  This was created in Eudora Light with Word Wrap turned on.

Hi there!!!  I just read your post on Usenet and thought I would take a few moments to send you 
a reply to tell you what I thought of it.  It's like this.  Usenet newsgroups are used and read 
by *millions* of people around the world every day.  Sometime a new user makes a ligitimate 
mistake.  More rarely, an experienced user will make a ligitimate mistake.  Others dileberately 
abuse the system and waste the time of these *millions* of Usenet readers.  This can happen in 
one or more of several ways.

First, the poster may post to the wrong newsgroup.  The most common error is to post a "test". 
 The newsgroup, "alt.test" has been specifically set aside for this purpose so please post your 
tests there.  Secondly, a person can make an inappropriate post.  Finally, the poster can post 
to a lot of newsgroups at the same time.  This kind of post, to many newsgroups is called a 
"spam" and the person who does it is called a "spammer".

Persons such as myself have a tendency to resent it when you do something like this.  We have 
several methods of retaliating.  The first is to email a "flame" to you, the poster.  A "flame" 
is a message that is hateful, sometimes contains rude or even obscene language, or goes on and 
on ranting and raving on some topic or at some person.  Another tactic is to write your 
postmaster and ask them to pull you account and kick you out.  Finally, we can send you a large 
nember of LONNNG and *irrelivant* email messages until you get the idea (After all, you sent us 
an *irrelivant* post).

In this particular instance, I have chosen to give you the benifit of a doubt and assume that 
you have made a legitimate error and responded by sending you this nice letter.  Perhaps the 
error was on my part and I failed to understand the point of your post.  In this circumstance I 
recomend that you rewrite and then *proof read* your post.  Finally, ask yourself the question 
"Is this appropriate to this Usenet newsgroup?".

On the other hand it may be that you are a spammer. In this case, I am directing the paragraph 
below to you specifically.

Over a period of time, spammers often suffer the punishment of the primative machine.  It is 
simply this.  "May your organs of gender become entangled in a large machine opperating at an 
excruciatingly low speed.  May you then discover that you are alone and that the stop button is 
just out of reach".

Copylefted April 29, 1996 by David Bezinque  ><>

BEZINQUE@pop3.cris.com



From jsp@u.washington.edu Sun May  5 13:58:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 18:45:15 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960502184225.20649A-100000@saul3.u.washington.edu>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
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To: "John M. VerBurg" <jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu>
In-Reply-To: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>

A lot of titanium has enough iron impurities included that there is some
magnetic qualities.  Some Titanium from the xUSSR was non-magnetic (
possibly used for submarine construction ).
			Cheers,




From ernieleim@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:57 EDT 1996
Article: 27789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q:Helium Gas for MIg Welding?
Date: 3 May 1996 01:00:10 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 28
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4mc3sq$rfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Okay , after asking my local supplier, they sadi that you can own the
tanks for helium argon, but not for tri-mixes, or 98/2( argon / oxygen). 
They discourage owning them because there are very few ownership cylinders
in their system, so they can't garauntee that they can have one ready all
the time.

Another note about mixing manifolds:
It is very important to have back flow preventers on all the lines to
prevent the gases from mixing in the tanks, and screwing your gas supplier
by contaminating the tanks.
I also use quick-release connectors to allow my Helium/argon mix to be
hooked up to my Betamig 250 for aluminum welding.

Best of luck

@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From jhko@aol.com Sun May  5 13:58:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to make small brass plaques?
Date: 3 May 1996 01:56:36 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 19
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Reply-To: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Hi Fellow Metal Heads:

I've been wanting to make some small brass plaques (about 1x2") to label
model engines, etc. Any good ideas on how to make these? The text has to
be pretty small, so engraving doesn't seem to be a great solution.
Somehow, it seems that I should be able to output text on my laser printer
and use that to etch the plaques. Any easy techniques for this? Or how
about casting the little suckers? Anyone do this regularly? Any good
ideas? Again, the darn things have to be very fine grained, so in my head
I keep coming back to etching. 

I look forward to your immense wisdom on the subject,

Best Regards,

Joe Osborn
JOEO@JANDEL.COM
or 
JHKO@AOL.COM


From quartlow@netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: quartlow@netcom.com (Len Turnbow)
Subject: Re: IBM Selectric typewriter repair
Message-ID: <quartlowDqsMBv.50p@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31>
Date: Thu, 2 May 1996 19:33:31 GMT
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Sender: quartlow@netcom22.netcom.com

Peter Orban (peter.orban@nrc.ca) wrote:
: I picked up an older IBM typewriter, I think it is a version of a
: Selectric (no visible type number on it), with the ball head. When I
: plugged it in, the head wiggled a couple of times and then the motor
: stopped running. So how would I go about cleaning, repairing such a beast
: myself? Any books or other pointers describing the innards of the machine?

IBM Parts and Service (800) 426-7378.
A great source of repair manuals and parts!  They sold me a power switch for
my Selectric for $4.00, (from IBM!)  Works great now.

-- Len
-- 
                                             quartlow@netcom.com


From kmag@lex.infi.net Sun May  5 13:58:58 EDT 1996
Article: 27792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Maggard <kmag@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: arc welding sheet metal.
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 18:34:02 -0400
Organization: Maggard Technologies
Lines: 28
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Chris Tilton wrote:
> 
> Any pointers on arc welding sheet metal?  I am going to help
> my son weld a new floorboard on his '64 pickup truck that
> he is restoring.  I heard that there are special powdered
> (as opposed to solid) welding rods that are less likely
> to melt a hole in the sheet metal.  Is this accurate?
> 
> Any other pointers, tips?
> 
> --
> 
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> J. Chris Tilton               "Crossing his legs and frantically
> Lackey & Software Engineer     looking for a rest area on the
> Lexis-Nexis                    information superhighway..."
> (A Reed/Elsevier company)
> 
> 513-865-6800 ext. 6042
> chris.tilton@lexis-nexis.com
> _________________________________________________________


	I would recommend that you practice on some scrap first, sheet metal can distort a great 
deal from welding.  You will probably need to weld in short patches so that you do not 
concentrate too much heat in one place.  
	
		Kevin Maggard


From davidp@wolfenet.com Sun May  5 13:58:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!avalanche.ixa.net!ixa.net!news.aa.net!ratty.wolfe.net!usenet
From: davidp@wolfenet.com (David P. Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 15:02:42 GMT
Organization: Digital Designs
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4maesd$uds@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) wrote:


>I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
>silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
>recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
>the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
>I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
>listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
>quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
>acid?

>Regards, Chet

Photographic supply houses, mainly wholesalers, usually sell it by the
gallon (33% concentration), and there are some mail order
photochemical suppliers that will ship to individuals, but it has to
go UPS or truck as acids aren't legal to mail.  BTW don't use battery
acid,  it's full of impurities and you never know what color your
metal will end up.

Dave



From biko@primenet.com Sun May  5 13:58:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Joe Broderick <biko@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Repairing cast aluminum - Can it be done?
Date: 2 May 1996 22:54:02 -0700
Organization: Visual Stuctures, Ltd.
Lines: 26
Sender: root@primenet.com
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Hello,

I'm a first time visitor to this group.  I thought I might ask this group as I don't now where to start 
doing my research on the possibilities.  

I have a piece of cast aluminum on a movie camera that is broken off and I was wonder if it 
can be welded/brazed (please excuse my ignorance of the proper terminology) back 
together. 

The best way to describe it is that a barrel about the diameter and size of a roll of quaters is 
inserted into a hole in the cast aluminum piece.  The securing or lockdown finger with the 
tiedown screw is what is broken off .  It's kinda small but not terribly precision work.

My question is this : can this piece be reattached without warping the cast piece and/or still 
maintain the alinement of the screw so that it still will secure the piece that gets inserted?

Any comments are appreciated

Thanks

Joe Broderick


biko@primenet.com
--
http://www.primenet.com/~biko/


From kish@browncow.com Sun May  5 13:58:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rivet sources
Date: 2 May 1996 23:50:10 GMT
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4mbhni$bd6@news.mhv.net>
References: <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net>
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X-URL: news:31865089.445@washington.xtn.net

Try the Big Flats Rivet Co. 


		607-562-3501

		-BK



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:58:59 EDT 1996
Article: 27796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Date: 2 May 1996 19:34:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4mb2na$638@dfw-ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
References: <dbaker.301.00031153@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us> <4m8ega$a11@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
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This seems to be a pretty popular thread recently, so here is my input
on the subject.

You can of course build your own furnace, but if you don't ahve the
time or ability to do so, you might want to get in touch with PYRAMID
PRODUCTS. They manufacture a complete line of furnaces and accessories
for casting.

Our #16 furnace will do over 50 lbs of red brass in a pour. Thqat works
out to about 18lbs of aluminum. 
If you call them, ask for Merle ( the owner ) and he can give you all
the details of what you need as well as tips and techniques to make the
process more enjoyable.

They also have sand, flux, and a numbe of accessories that you will
need to complete your operation.

We just got into casting our own parts, and we have been very impressed
with the quality and service that PYRAMID has delivered.

Their phone number is 1-619-354-4265, you can tell them that I
recommended them, they'll treat you right.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From romeug@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: 3 May 1996 05:17:45 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 11
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4mcivp$2gd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

>Sounds like you want electrical tape 3ft wide. I experimented with
>electrical tape and it seamed to work but I ultimately wanted to try
fancy
>patterns and electrical tape precluded this

appreciate your response, electrical tape wwill probably work fine.  have
just tried multiple layers of contact paper, scored and trimmed it and it
worked well.  to do patterning, have had good success with cutting acetate
and spray contact adhesive.

gabriel


From romeug@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: 3 May 1996 05:17:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com


>I have never done it sandblasting, but I often use plasticene
>(modeling clay) as a masking agent when painting. It just might work
>for blasting glass; worth giving a try.

nice idea, probably be able to vary depth by building thickness, adhesion
might be a bit of a difficulty.  in the same vein, have had success using
silicone caulk for a painterly line.

gabriel 


From Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk Sun May  5 13:59:00 EDT 1996
Article: 27799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!warwick!bsmail!pc220
From: Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk (David E.Hockin)
Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades
Message-ID: <Dqtr1r.7x3@uns.bris.ac.uk>
Sender: usenet@uns.bris.ac.uk (Usenet news owner)
Nntp-Posting-Host: pc220.swd.bris.ac.uk
Organization: School for Policy Studies, University of Bristol
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References: <4leaim$q9a@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4lteje$1du@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4m6nlo$djb@news1.svc>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:12:58 GMT
Lines: 23

In article <4m6nlo$djb@news1.svc>,
   Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:

>Many tool suppliers will build blades to order.

Apart from that, its no great hassle to braze up your own, and if 
you get a coil of the stuff, a fair bit cheaper. The joints don't 
NEED to be welded. A brazed one is just as good for a saw 
blade. If the welded joint isn't annealed proerly, it will crack 
at each side! I've had several new shop-welded ones do that. You 
might as well get used to brazing, or in time you will end up 
with dozens of short lengths of blade, still sharp, but 
useless :) 

Dave.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk     | "my thoughts are mine alone, and not
			   |  those of the University"
G4UGT                      |
                           | But I wouldn't mind betting they've
                           | someone working on that already!
------------------------------------------------------------------


From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Sun May  5 13:59:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.xnet.com!corpsoft!lee.ward
From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Message-ID: <8BFD520.0229004265.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Thu, 02 May 96 21:52:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
References: <4m9oru$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
X-Newsreader: PCBoard Version 15.22
X-Mailer: PCBoard/UUOUT Version 1.20
Lines: 12

I saw the mirror process ob cable tv and you just Soak mirror in
Muriatic acid for 2days then wash off and rinse with water,THEN rinse
with DE-IONIZED water,then Spray the silver solution onto glass and when
dry Paint Backside of glass with latex paint! Voila! Now if i only knew
where to get the Silver solution and deionized water i could be a star!
                              Lee Ward

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:59:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!nntp.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Aluminum Casting at home.....
Message-ID: <1996May3.103305.27746@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <4ltej2$1ds@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <31811B9E.41C6@zk3.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:33:05 GMT
Lines: 39


The late Cliff Blackstaffe made a metal melting furnace using a small oil 
burner.  It worked just fine!


In a previous article, edk4@aol.com (Edk4) says:

>There was an article in HSM, awhile back, about making a forge from a
>domestic oil burner. This intrigued me because it seemed kind of complete
>to start off with, fuel's relatively cheap and easy to come by, and I have
>one sitting in my cellar.
>
>The one detail missing from the article was the temperature of the oil
>burner flame. This, I assume, is pretty much of a constant given the
>burner type, and size of nozzle.
>If I ever get around to making a forge, I think I'd like the capability to
>melt Iron, so the temperature is important.
>
>Anyone out there build one of these melters?
>
>Anyone knowledgeable about home heating oil burners? Mine's a Beckett with
>a 1 gal/hour nozzle. (I believe the nozzles are interchangeable and a
>larger capacity one could be substituted if that's a good thing)
>
>I did ask the guy who came to clean the system, but he didn't know and
>didn't know anyone back at the shop who did, either. It's hot enough to
>heat the house, what else do you need to know ...
>
>------------------
>Ed Kingsley
>
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:59:01 EDT 1996
Article: 27802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!nntp.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Message-ID: <1996May3.103824.27808@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <4lu6au$6k0@eve.speakeasy.org>  
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:38:24 GMT
Lines: 26


BS/Whitworth tools can be hard to impossible to get in Canada & the US.  
I wanted some professional quality wrenches ( Spanners ) for my Myford
a few years ago.  No luck at all here.  I bought some on a trip to England.



In a previous article, blackdog@speakeasy.org (David White) says:

>Need a source for Whitworth and British Standard taps, dies
>and fasteners.  I've seen some ads in clasic motorcycle mags for fasteners
>but there all in England and don't advertize tools.  Any ideas?
>
>
>
>David White
>Blackdog@speakeasy.org
>
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:59:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!nntp.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Message-ID: <1996May3.105220.28054@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <4m0nv4$6h5@crocus.csv.warwick.ac.uk> <4lu6au$6k0@eve.speakeasy.org>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:52:20 GMT
Lines: 44


Dealing with UK firms can be frustrating.  Most will not quote postage & 
packing.  When you do get it sorted out, a lot of time is wasted, and 
they often ship in flimsy packaging.  Every order I have placed with Reeves,
arrived months late, and repackaged by the post office.  To boot, they 
often don't seem to know what air parcel post is, and surface can take 
two to four months to western Canada!  Just for the record, I have 
recieved orders from Coles in less than a week.



In a previous article, esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr J Brennan) says:

>In article <4lu6au$6k0@eve.speakeasy.org>,
>	blackdog@speakeasy.org (David White) writes:
>>Need a source for Whitworth and British Standard taps, dies
>>and fasteners.  I've seen some ads in clasic motorcycle mags for fasteners
>>but there all in England and don't advertize tools.  Any ideas?
>
>Try Graham Engineering +44 121 525 3133 or fax +44 121 500 6453
>They take vias and do mail order - it's just as easy as doing business
>with the states. 
>
>>
>>
>>
>>David White
>>Blackdog@speakeasy.org
>>
>>
>
>
>-- 
>John Brennan		Tel +44 1203 523973
>University of Warwick,	Fax +44 1203 524144			
>Coventry, CV4 7AL,UK	Email esrbz@warwick.ac.uk	
> 
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From timtroyr@ionet.net Sun May  5 13:59:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ionews.ionet.net!camelot
From: timtroyr@ionet.net (Tim Robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 03 May 96 08:34:04 GMT
Organization: Me
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4mccrj$d3d@ionews.ionet.net>
References: <4lunb1$msk@csugrad.cs.vt.edu> <4lv3jd$i7c@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4m01bv$k1g@dfw-ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3185CE5A.46E5@holonet.net> <4mb1u1$79q@news.usit.net> <4mc03p$j6v@tribune.concentric.net>
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In article <4mc03p$j6v@tribune.concentric.net>,
   David Bezinque <BEZINQUE@pop3.CRIS.COM> wrote:
[nice response to spam removed]

David, yer to f***ing nice.  It's a Ponzi scheme; it's illegal; every ISP 
notifies their users of the consequences; only the damnably clueless and 
deliberately ignorant persist.

Forward to the jackass's postmaster and be done with it.

Note:  This wasn't a flame.  I have trouble with the notion of extending 
malice to someone who framed such a nice response... even to a jerk.


| Tim Robinson                   | Those who would give up essential |
| timtroyr@ionet.net             | liberty to purchase a little      |
| Excalibur BBS: 918-445-3091    | temporary safety, deserve neither |
| http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr | liberty nor safety.  Ben Franklin |


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun May  5 13:59:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!nntp.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Silvering
Message-ID: <1996May3.111636.28676@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 11:16:36 GMT
Lines: 17


Perhaps my chemical terminology may have been incorrect.  But I have heard
many tales of people going to lunch, only to return to a demolished lab, 
because they failed to safely dispose of the activated solution first.

As a note of interest, the old clock & watch dial makers in England used to
test the silver chloride solution by tasting it!  When there was no taste 
of salt or acid it was ready for use.  My great grandfather was a London 
watchmaker in the last century. My grandmother helped in the shop as a 
young girl.  She said the dial makers all had black tongues.  I don't know
how much truth there is to this, but I  believe the activated solution will 
blacken skin. 
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:59:02 EDT 1996
Article: 27806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Epoxy recomendations
Date: 3 May 1996 16:34:22 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4mdcie$j88@news1.svc>
References: <Dp2GMJ.3rw@boss.cs.ohiou.edu> <8BFC4C0.03400019AF.uuout@bbc.org>
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Whatever adhesive, epoxy or other sticky stuff you work
with, the overriding goal should be:

CLEAN
      CLEAN
           CLEAN

the two surfaces before gloping them with the
magic.  Then, with both surfaces at the recommended
temperature let them cure at the temperature
and time specified by the manufacturer.

Makes a big big difference.

Also, there is a book, "Adhesives & Glues" by 
Robert S. Miller and published by 
S&S Publishing, Box 192, New Ringgold, PA  17960

This was released in 1980 so it does not have the new
miracle epoxies, etc. but it does give you an the idea
that using hard epoxy to mend a shoe sole is a bad
application.   The chapter, Why Didn't It Stick? is
well worth reading.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sun May  5 13:59:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.serv.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp23.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinding
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 09:35:46 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <r.lee-0305960935460001@ppp23.nantucket.net>
References: <1996Apr25.133922.11993@bbxrbk.basis.com> <101260276@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>

In article <101260276@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com
(Peter Brooks) wrote:

> Oops, I noticed on reviewing the Hemingway web page that they don't sell
> the Quorn castings.  Not sure who does in the UK.


For some unknown reason the details of MES are not in the FAQ and I know I
have typed this info before....

Model Engineering Services
Pipworth Farm, Pipworth Lane
Eckington, Sheffield S31 9EY

Tel 011 44 1246 433218 (from the US... in the UK it is just 01246 433218)

The owner, Ivan Law, (the author of 2 very good books in the Nexus Press
Workshop Practice series "Measuring and Marking Metals" and "Gears and
Gear cutting") is a delight to talk and deal with and a charming host if
you drop by (they ask you to call first) Eckington is a small village
outside of the city of Sheffield and the farm is quite close to the main
village roundabout... easy to find just ask at the pub...

they also have kits for the Dore Westbury MkII vertical Milling machine
(20X6 or 16.5X5.5 table with 4.5" quill travel and speeds of 30 to
1900rpm): a nice linishing machine, the Kennet tool and cutter grinder
(much easyer to build and use than the Quorn but not as universal) and a
selection of dividing head, rotary table, vices, lathe steady kits are
also on offer... in the UK a SAS 9X4 envlope will get you the flyers on
all of their stuff and overseas I think 6 IRCs should do the trick.


From berry@a.chem.upenn.edu Sun May  5 13:59:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!berry
From: berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 10:19:56 -0400
Organization: Penn Chemistry
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <berry-0305961019560001@netnews.upenn.edu>
References: <1996May3.111636.28676@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: si.chem.upenn.edu
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b6

In article <1996May3.111636.28676@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
<snip>
>As a note of interest, the old clock & watch dial makers in England used to
>test the silver chloride solution by tasting it!  When there was no taste 
>of salt or acid it was ready for use.  My great grandfather was a London 
>watchmaker in the last century. My grandmother helped in the shop as a 
>young girl.  She said the dial makers all had black tongues.  I don't know
>how much truth there is to this, but I  believe the activated solution will 
>blacken skin. 

The unactivated silver solutions will blacken skin.  Silver nitrate gets
on/in your skin, gets reduced one way or another (not that hard) and you
get a silver colloid right there.  Think of it as skin as photographic
plate.  In undergraduate chem lab you can usually assign a "technique"
score for some labs after looking over the students' hands. :)
-Don Berry
-- 
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu


From goldstar@1stop.com Sun May  5 13:59:03 EDT 1996
Article: 27810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.seanet.com!cuaa9
From: goldstar@1stop.com (Bob Bickers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Divider heads advice
Date: Thu, 02 May 96 07:32:14 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4mbv4k$jpu@kaleka.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cuaa9.1stop.com
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

Just gor the sales flyer from MSC and they have a divider head  on pp3 for 
$246 reg for $328 and appears similar to Encos for $360. Anyone have an 
opinion on this unit, are they good, bad, or indiiferent? Been following the 
series in HSM on building a divider head and also have Dave Gingerys book on 
building one, is it better to build or buy? Bob.


From Josh@WolfeNET.com Sun May  5 13:59:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.serv.net!news.alt.net!news1.alt.net!news.aa.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 1 May 1996 21:32:54 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4m8la6$ot2@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Reply-To: Josh@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:

>I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
>silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
>recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
>the metal work after soldering.  But HOW do you buy this stuff?
>I've tried welding suppliers and drug stores.  Chemical suppliers
>listed in the business-to-business yellow pages only sell in bulk
>quantities.  So, to repeat the question, how DO you buy sulfuric
>acid?

Last time I needed any for cleaning purposes I just used battery
acid from the local auto parts store.

When I needed purer stuff for some electroplating I got it from a
local chem lab supply company -- chemistry labs often buy things
a quart at a time rather than in industrial quantities.

If you need something better than battery acid and can't find it
>from  a chem lab supplier, maybe some business that uses it would
sell you some of theirs, e.g. a plating shop or commercial
soldering/brazing outfit?

--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From jreakens@ingr.com Sun May  5 13:59:04 EDT 1996
Article: 27812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ingr.com!b10.b10.ingr.com!usenet
From: Bo Eakens <jreakens@ingr.com>
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.bicycles.rides,rec.bicycles.soc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.birds,rec.boats,rec.boats.paddle,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: NEED FAST CASH? READ AND TRY THIS!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 06:58:04 -0500
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL
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If anyone has the original post of this message please email it to me. I
have
contacted his system administrator and we may be able to get bsweeny's
account
closed with HIWAAY if we can find the original post. Thanks for any
help.


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun May  5 13:59:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: Thu, 2 May 96 22:41:27 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <hNFsArH.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <4m0abm$mbm@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1b.delphi.com
X-To: Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>

Edward Haas <steamer@west.net> writes:
 
>	--Hello, all. I'm making a little aluminum do-dad adn I'm trying 
>to find an economical way to mark the company name and the part 
>description on quantities of them. I have previously been using an 
 
I made a unit for about $30 in Radio Shack parts that was comparable with the
$400-600 commercial models of Acid Etch power supplies. I bought a 24 volt bell
transformer and some bannana plugs and coiled VOM test probes with alligator
clip ends. I also add
ed several different values of capacitors to help "Dig In" to tough marking
materials (Stainless). This unit worked flawlessly and I eventually sold it for
$150. Essentially you hook the capacitors in series with the 24V supply on
several lugs of a rotary
switch in succeive order of their MFD values.then run the output to the bananna
plug panel mounts on the front. Tie the black (-) lead to a plate of steel or
aluminum and use the positive lead to go to a pad of felt that is on the
outside of your stencil (
available at MSC along with the acid etchants appropriate for different
materials ) I was doing production marking of several hundred pieces at a time
in 2-3 seconds each. I bought my supplies from a company in RI, but cannot
remember the name. They also w
ould make up custom , nearly indestructable stamps that would give your product
a real professional look. That also eliminates the need for replacing the
perforated wax stencils every 200 pcs. or so. If you need more info, E-mail me
and I will try to help.
Paul


From sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!aanews.merit.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.flint.umich.edu!news.gmi.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!sab
From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rivet sources
Message-ID: <1996May2.122955.7345@tower>
Date: 2 May 96 12:29:55 -0500
References: <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net> <blake-0105960036520001@206.84.2.69>
Lines: 18

In article <blake-0105960036520001@206.84.2.69>, blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki) writes:
> In article <31865089.445@washington.xtn.net>, Bob Hurley
> <bhurley@washington.xtn.net> wrote:
> 
> $ Can anyone help me find an economical source for rivits,
> $ especially soft iron round head of 1/8 to 3/16 dia?
> $ 
  [deletia]
> 
> Any farm store or tractor dealer will have them.  They are used to attach
> the knife sections to a sicyle bar or haybine.  Very resonable too.
> Blake

Centaur Forge carries 3/16" roundtop soft steel rivets - address isn't
readily available from where I'm posting.  I'm sure someone out there
must be sitting within reach of a catalog.

Steve Bloom (IronFlower Forge)


From BrentVan@fn.net Sun May  5 13:59:05 EDT 1996
Article: 27815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.wildstar.net!news.sdsmt.edu!news.mid.net!wormer.fn.net!sysadmin@wormer.fn.net
From: BrentVan@fn.net (Brent H. Van Arsdell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Free (sort of) Stirling engine plans/kit.
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 03:44:27 GMT
Organization: Feist Connections
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <4mbsq4$8ap@wormer.fn.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mark319.fn.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.55

I have sold over 100 of my MM-1 coffee cup Stirling engine and have
now decided to publish a book with very detailed plans and instruction
on how to build this engine.

I need to find a couple of model builders to take the plans which I
will supply free, and the hard to find materials which I will also
supply free and build the engine.  You will need to carefully document
the process with good 35 mm photos (in focus with good lighting, but
nothing complex).  

You get plans and hard to find materials, and I get good photographs
and feedback from you on the quality of my instructions.  If that
sounds like a deal, then email me telling me about the other projects
you have built and what kind of camera you have.   This does require a
lathe capable of turning a 4" diameter part.	

The MM-1 Stirling engine sells complete and beautiful for $179.00 plus
$9.00 shipping.  The completed plans book will sell for $12 to $19, I
haven't yet decided.  The MM-1 will run on small temperature
differences.  Place the engine on a steaming coffee mug and it will
run clockwise.  Put it on a pile of ice chips and it will run counter
clockwise if the room is 72 degrees F. or warmer.

We are running a two week delivery time on engines, although sometimes
we can beat that time frame.

Brent H. Van Arsdell
Magic Motor Company.
http://www.stirlingcycle.com
Magic Motor Company  1-316-684-6235
Model Stirling engines that run on ice or hot water!
check out my home page at
http://www.fn.net/~brentvan/index.html



From Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk Sun May  5 13:59:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!warwick!bsmail!pc220
From: Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk (David E.Hockin)
Subject: Dalai Lama
Message-ID: <Dqtrqp.9Bv@uns.bris.ac.uk>
Sender: usenet@uns.bris.ac.uk (Usenet news owner)
Nntp-Posting-Host: pc220.swd.bris.ac.uk
Organization: School for Policy Studies, University of Bristol
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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:27:58 GMT
Lines: 23

I thought that I read recently, that the Dalai Lama died a few 
months ago, and that there is a tussle going on with the chinese, 
as to whose nominee will "get the job".

It doesn't seem much sense to involve an elderly gentleman in the 
speculation that has been included in the previous post, and if 
he IS now deceased, even less sense with regard to his successor, 
who will almost certainly be too young to be involved in 
engineering or watchmaking.

When I tried to follow up the article, my newsreader stated that 
the original was cross-posted to 14 groups! AND that nearly all 
of them are illegal. Is someone playing at silly buggers?

Dave.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk     | "my thoughts are mine alone, and not
			   |  those of the University"
G4UGT                      |
                           | But I wouldn't mind betting they've
                           | someone working on that already!
------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:59:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!netcom.net.uk!netcom.com!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Foundry equipment / Casting Suppliers
Date: 3 May 1996 13:49:09 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4md2sl$4dp@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny11-45.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri May 03  8:49:09 AM CDT 1996

    
I don't seem to be able to find the post I made regarding
furnace/foundry equipment, so if this is a duplicate post, my
apologies.

THe recent thread regarding sources for foundry equipment has been very
interesting to me. We just acquired a foundry setup from PYRAMID
PRODUCTS in California (Niland). I am VERY impressed with the quality
of the equipment and the knowledgable support and advice I recieved
>from  the owner Merle.

Pyramid carries all the accessories and equipment you need to begin
casting metal at home. Their prices are extremely reasonable ( our #16
furnace will melt over 50 lbs of bronze at a melt, and was less than
$1000.00 COMPLETE!). They have the sand, flasks, crucibles, tongs, in
short, they have it all.

If you are not predisposed to building your own, and want a quality
piece of equipment, give Merle a call at 1-619-354-4265. Tell him that
I recommended them highly ( Companies like to get referrals from happy
customers ).

Their address is;
 85357 American Canal Rd.
Niland, CA 92257

Good luck

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:59:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!news-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Message-ID: <1996May3.090729.23014@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 May 96 09:07:28 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
Distribution: world
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In article <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg) writes:
|>Hi Everyone.
|>
|> I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely 
|>non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
|>continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
|>gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an 
|>8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet. I have tried 304 stainless 
|>and inconel and they are both still too magnetic for my purposes. I am 
|>considering titanium, but cannot find a supplier. If anyone can direct me 
|>to a supplier of titanium tubing or can suggest alternative alloys, I 
|>would appreciate it greatly. BTW, the dimensions for the tubing is .250" 
|>OD,  > .1875" ID x 12" long. If you have any laying around, I would be


One of the more interesting questions of late!

The FAQ lists a few suppliers of titanium and/or titanium products.  In
no particular order:

   -  Premier Fastener Company
      495 E. Parr Blvd
      Reno, NV  89512
      (800) 654-6333

      March 4, 1995:  It was mentioned that these folks have titanium
      files.  Not cheap, but they "last like crazy".

   -  Reactive Metals Studio
      Box 890
      Clarkdale, AZ 86324
      (800) 876-3434, (520) 634-3434
      reactive@sedona.net

      Titanium, niobium, mokume-gane, shakudo and shibuichi metals.
      Supplies for anodizing reactive metals (this does NOT include
      aluminum).  Also an extensive line of findings, Sparkie welders
      and other supplies.  Free catalog.

   -  Robin Materials
      1951-T Colony St.
      Mountain View, CA 94843
      (415) 966-1533, (415) 966-1533 (FAX)
      http://www.rmat.com   or e-mail: info@rmat.com

      "Specialty metals since 1981"  "Rare alloys & non-standard sizes".
      For example, titanium, invar, inconel, and so on.

   -  Tico
      Michigan
      (810) 478-4700

      Mentioned in a post 7/20/95, as a source of Titanium tubing.
      Minimum order is $100.


You might also try a web indexer like Alta Vista, keyword "titanium"
and wade through the results!

As for other non-magnetic materials, I have no clue :-(.  Maybe a
conductive ceramic or other non-metal?

Jim


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:06 EDT 1996
Article: 27819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Divider heads advice
Date: 3 May 1996 19:14:56 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4mdlvg$lmb@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bob Bickers (goldstar@1stop.com) wrote:
: Just gor the sales flyer from MSC and they have a divider head  on pp3 for 
: $246 reg for $328 and appears similar to Encos for $360. Anyone have an 
: opinion on this unit, are they good, bad, or indiiferent? Been following the 
: series in HSM on building a divider head and also have Dave Gingerys book on 
: building one, is it better to build or buy? Bob.

Since I just replaced the babbit bearing headstock on my lathe with a
roller bearing one, I have a spare headstock.  I decided it would make a
great dividing head!  I already have all the tooling - centers, faceplate,
chucks, etc.  All I have to do is replace the bull gear with a worm gear,
and mount a worm to engage it, and voila - a dividing head!  Others might
want to think about going this route.  Old headstocks are fairly common,
and the bearings will last a long time at the rate they are rotated in
this use.



From wwebster@nortel.ca Sun May  5 13:59:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anodizing 7075 Al
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 07:40:09 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <wwebster-0305960740090001@47.116.15.87>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

A friend of mine took a piece of 7075 Aluminum to one of the local metal
shops to get it anodized.  The shop said you can't anodize 7075 (or least
they couldn't).

So, the question is, can 7075 aluminum be anodized or not?

If not, why not?

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun May  5 13:59:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cannon Plans (wanted)
Date: 3 May 1996 16:32:29 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4mdcet$28e@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <NEWTNews.830898507.9822.tabco@TABco.pulsar.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

TABco (tabco@alpha.pulsar.net) wrote:

: Looking for plans for a cannon, any style.

Village Press has a few scale model cannons in their books.  You might check
a shop that sells black poweder firearms.  Somebody (Navy Arms?) sells/sold
castings for three different cannons--a 2" naval cannon, a 2" Cohorn mortar,
and I think the last was a Napolean.  A friend build the naval cannon and
keeps it in his gunshop.  We've fired it at the local club range when the
range is ordinarily closed--it's pretty wicked at 100 yards.

I've borrowed a Civil war cannon book from the same guy.  There are
enough photos and drawings to scale out plans for virtually all of the
cannons used then.

There is/was an outfit that made a 'beer can' cannon--a replica of a WWII
vintage towable piece, with handwheels for range and elevation.  It also
had shoddy welding, so the only time I saw it in operation, it just missed
seriously injuring a bystander.  BTW, the load was a 12 ounce can of
cannon-black powder, with the shell a concrete-filled beer can.  No rifling
in the tube, and the poweder can had a window of flash paper that was ignited
by a .38 special 'blank'--a primed case.

With decent welding, the latter would be awesome.  The bad weld was on a 
strip that held the falling-block breech block in the frame.  A lot simpler
than a cannon breech, but not a good place to have poor penetration.

Pete Brooks




From mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu Sun May  5 13:59:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!pacifier!news.ac.net!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!hermes.louisville.edu!news
From: mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu (Terry McCreary)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering Process (mirrors)
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 16:55:48 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <318a1e00.0@isnt.mursuky.edu>
References: <4m9oru$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <8BFD520.0229004265.uuout@corpsoft.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) wrote:

>I saw the mirror process ob cable tv and you just Soak mirror in
>Muriatic acid for 2days then wash off and rinse with water,THEN rinse
>with DE-IONIZED water,then Spray the silver solution onto glass and when
>dry Paint Backside of glass with latex paint! Voila! Now if i only knew
>where to get the Silver solution and deionized water i could be a star!
>                              Lee Ward

Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, available at many home/hardware
stores; used for etching concrete.  Deionized water is water that has
been passed thru a special column that removes dissolved ions.  It's
usually a bit purer than distilled water, but good quality distilled
water is an acceptable substitute for this work.  Or pass distilled
water thru one of those little "purifiers" used to make "clean"  water
for filling the wife's iron.

Good luck,
T. McCreary
"I don't need a disclaimer.  Everyone knows that I don't know what I'm
talking about."



From rcd@cu.soltec.com Sun May  5 13:59:07 EDT 1996
Article: 27823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.cu.soltec.com!usenet
From: Robin <rcd@cu.soltec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rolling mill needed
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 08:01:04 -0700
Organization: Sol Tec, Inc.
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <318A1FB0.69F@cu.soltec.com>
References: <4lsd8m$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <rich_klopp-2904960821040001@128.18.30.31>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; U)

I am currently in need of a 100-120mm Rolling mill in good condition. 
Gear reduction is not important. Side rollers would be nice but not 
important. I do need a combination type(wire/flat) mill.If you hae 
anything close that is usable for gold or silver please E-mail me at 
rcd@soltec.com


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sun May  5 13:59:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: IBM Selectric typewriter repair
Message-ID: <1996May3.111759.886@flying-disk.com>
Date: 3 May 96 11:17:59 PDT
References: <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 56

In article <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31>, 
peter.orban@nrc.ca (Peter Orban) writes:

> I picked up an older IBM typewriter, I think it is a version of a
> Selectric (no visible type number on it), with the ball head. When I
> plugged it in, the head wiggled a couple of times and then the motor
> stopped running. So how would I go about cleaning, repairing such a beast
> myself? Any books or other pointers describing the innards of the machine?

Someone else posted IBM's telephone number, so you just have to
order IBM Form No. 241-5615-2 (or its replacement).   The cover reads:

    IBM Office Products Division
    Customer Engineering
    Service Manual
    "Selectric" Typewriter

This manual is about 230 pages long, with several illustrations
on every page.   Each part under discussion is printed in red,
along with arrows showing which direction(s) it is supposed to
move.   My copy is dated May, 1975, so it is likely that there
is a newer edition with an updated form number.   However, this
should give you a starting point.

In the late 1970's I restored a computer terminal version of
the Selectric for use on my home computer.   I bought every
available manual & parts catalog and studied them for days.
Once I understood what each part of the mechanism was for, it
was easy to get it working again.

One of the most important statements in the manual is found
in the "Lubrication" section:

    "The 'Selectric' Typewriter will not operate dependably and
    reliably if it is not thoroughly and properly lubricated."

If IBM cannot supply a copy of this manual, I would be willing
to make a copy of mine.   Unfortunately, the red parts of the
illustrations would be black.   Also, it would probably cost
over $60 to get it copied because it is glue bound and punched
for a 22-hole ring binder.   This means that even if it were
unbound, the copy machine automatic feeder would have *lots*
of trouble with it, so I would get charged for hand-placement
of every page.

This machine is a marvel of mechanical design and a well-working
specimen is a joy to type on.   The keyboard has no equals, which
is ironic considering how poor the IBM PC (and clone) keyboards
are.   Its only drawback, from my point of view, is that the
type balls only have 88 characters (later models have 96).   I
plan to keep mine running as long as I live.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com Sun May  5 13:59:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!newsmaster
From: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 3 May 1996 21:18:58 GMT
Organization: CompuServe Incorporated
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4mdt82$j6j@hil-news-svc-3.compuserve.com>
References: <4m5eln$hi9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4m6uvp$5up@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: 73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: dd28-212.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.03

In <4m6uvp$5up@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, writt@aol.com (WRitt) writes:
>In article <4m5eln$hi9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, billg63475@aol.com
>(BILLG63475) writes:

>>I know that you can buy a 3 axis driver board from Dan Mauch at
>>Camtronics, Either have him build it or build it yourself and find a
>>suitable power supply and a cabinet to house it in. Use the Dan CAD CAm
>>Software which is basically free ($10.00 to $15.00). Surplus or new
>motors
>>and suitable motor mouns are also needed. I feel that you could get a
>>system like this up and runing for probably less than the cost of the
>>Sherline Deluxe Mill. I found the Dan Cad Cam stuff to be cumbersome and
>>not very user friendly but functional which would probably be fine for
>the
>>hobbiest. I have found that 50 Oz In motors will work on all 3 axis, but
>a
>>120 oz in motor on Z would be more desirable.
>>
>>Bill Griffin
>>

Does anyone has information on Camtronics' whereabouts or phone number?

I would like to get information on low cost CNC controllers (or kits)
that either use G-code
or some type of translation software.

Stepper control is fine.

I already have info from Ah-ha!  And have found their prices too high for what I want to do,
which is to make a cnc controlled oxy-fuel cutting table.

Thanks,

Dave


From durelli@oasys.dt.navy.mil Sun May  5 13:59:08 EDT 1996
Article: 27826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail
From: durelli@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ernest Durelli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ENCO Hobby Lathe and Harbor Freight's ARE THEY TH
Date: 3 May 1996 17:27:22 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 9
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <4mdtnqINNhdc@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
Reply-To: durelli@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ernest Durelli)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

Is the ENCO (which I am not familiar with) the same as the Central machinery
brand featured in the H.F. catalog?  I am thinking about buying a Sherline
to build the Schreckling model gas turbine engine but the Sherline's
largest chuck (3.125 o.d.) would not be able to hold the largest Schreckling
part.  The Central Machinery brand looks like a good deal but I would
be worried about getting accessories, spare parts and not to mention
accuracy.  Any comments would be appreciated.

					    Ernie


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun May  5 13:59:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: 3 May 1996 20:02:25 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <4mdooh$hn3@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <4maika$mbl@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <rich_klopp-0205961615450001@128.18.30.31>
Reply-To: jrro@watson.ibm.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: moler.watson.ibm.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2

In <rich_klopp-0205961615450001@128.18.30.31>, rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp) writes:
>> > I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely 
>> >non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
>> >continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
>> >gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an 
>> >8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet.
>> 
>> Also consider sapphire or ceramic (alumina) tubing - does it *have*
>> to be bent?
>> 
>
>If it's to be a heating element, it has to be conductive, which sapphire &
>alumina (which is mostly polycrystalline sapphire) are not. Silicon
>carbide ceramic is a nonmagnetic semiconductor, and titanium diboride
>ceramic is a nonmagnetic condiuctor, though rather expensive. How about
>graphite heating elements?
>
>-- 
>Rich Klopp                      Do your parents know you're in here?
>rich_klopp@qm.sri.com

I guess the question was sort of unclear... my original response was
based on the idea that the tubing was only to *contain* the gas, and
there would be a heater wound around it.  

Sapphire tubing (available from Saphikon) has a pretty high thermal
conductivity.   The only problem with silicon carbide might be that it
is typically sintered with a cobalt binder (magnetic) - at least that's
what I've found in SiC tooling.

Perhaps the original poster could elaborate on his needs?

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:59:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!op.net!news.ironhorse.com!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: How to make small brass plaques?
Message-ID: <1996May3.190103.3018@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4mc76k$s2m@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 19:01:03 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <4mc76k$s2m@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Jhko <jhko@aol.com> wrote:
>about casting the little suckers? Anyone do this regularly? Any good
>ideas? Again, the darn things have to be very fine grained, so in my head
>I keep coming back to etching. 

Depending on what you need, you can either cast using the small
plastic lettering used temporary messages (room use in hotels, etc.)
or, in the alternative, you might consider laying out the letters
using a CAD and having them cut by someone with a CNC mill.  The first
reqires pretty good work with ramming up and all, and may require lost
wax work for small letters, but the seconds only requires some simple
cad software and a friend with a small CNC mill.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:59:09 EDT 1996
Article: 27829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Should this be brass? (9" SB Lathe part)
Date: 3 May 1996 17:48:40 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4mdgto$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


Finally got the compound on my 9" SB apart last night; apparently
there has been a change in the size standard for pin wrenches. What
you buy now for a 1" radius wrench comes with a 3/16" diameter pin;
the holes in the lathe are 5/32". Ed Richley came to the rescue by
providing a backup lathe and a four jaw chuck; we mounted the wrench
in a fixture and cut the pin to size. (We briefly contemplated drilling
the holes out to size, but this seemed like more fun. Now I'll probably
remove the finish on the wrench, fill in the cast '3/16' and repaint...)

Anyway, the compound was still hard to disassemble, because the compound
rest nut was held in the compound rest swivel very tightly. There isn't
enough clearance to drive it "in". There was a threaded hole, though,
that allowed it to be pulled "out", which we did.

I wondered how I was going to get this back in and aligned properly; it's
a press fit. Ed thinks that it should be loose, and is just gunked up; 
alignment is done by threading on the compound rest screw, and then kept
by tightening down the set screw.

That could be. As I proceeded to clean this part, I really had to wonder...
why is this brass? It's marked up enough and fits poorly enough that I
have started to think that it may be a replacement part - yes, it has
an Acme thread in it, but the ends are very poorly finished. Seems like
brass is a poor choice for this application because it will wear quickly.

Does anyone know, offhand, if this part should be brass? Maybe Dino (the
former owner of this lathe) made up a replacement from available stock,
instead of buying a proper cast iron replacement?

Thanks.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun May  5 13:59:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Westcott Chuck Company?
Date: 3 May 1996 17:51:07 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4mdh2b$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


I have a small three jaw chuck made by the Westcott Chuck company
(it's marked 935 W on the face). One of the pinions needs to be replaced.
It would be fun to try to make one, but just in case ... does anyone
know if this company still exists? They don't seem to be in the
Thomas Register. Perhaps someone copied their design and I can
buy a replacement pinion from them? Bison looks close, but not exact.
Buck is definitely not the same.

Thanks.


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun May  5 13:59:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Insulation for boiler firebox
Date: 3 May 1996 17:49:58 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4mdh06$l6s@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

As part of my new boiler for the Otter (our 19' steam launch), I need
to build a circular firebox.  The burner uses oil and the air/oil mist
is introduced tangentially into the 14" diameter firebox.  There's a
hole approx 11" in the top of the firebox; the resulting lip serves to
keep the flame front in the firebox under all but the most outrageous
firing rates :-).  The heat from a 3 gallon/hour fire is pretty amazing.

I made a prototype of the firebox using heavy firebrick which apparently
worked well, but I'm looking for something a lot less heavy.  FiberFrax
or Kaowool have been suggested, but these flexible blankets seem rather
subject to mechanical damage from the rather vigorous circular flame
front, loading paper/kindling for starting the fire,  and the occasional
introduction of a steam lance for tube cleaning.

Can anyone recommend a relatively thin stiff refractory board from
which I could construct such a firebox?  I'll use FiberFrax to provide
insulation around the material, so it doesn't need to be a good insulator.
In other words, the board would serve as a facing layer to protect the
FiberFrax from injury.  What is the modern equivelent of asbestos 
millboard?

Any advice to suitable material is appreciated, as are experiences indicating
I don't need to do this :-).  


Thanks -

- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:59:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Powder coating and anodizing
Date: 3 May 1996 10:48:54 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4mcoam$u6u@news.dwave.net>
References: <4lr8oa$agj@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <blake-2704960109120001@206.84.2.82><4lr8oa$agj@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <blake-2704960109120001@206.84.2.82> <31862A46.37D7@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: jetski.dwave.net
X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 999]

In message <31862A46.37D7@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us> - pdebrito
<pops@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>Tue, 30 Apr 1996 07:57:10 -0700 writes:
->
->Blake Malkamaki wrote:
->> 
->>.... I use powder coating all the time for my silhouette metal sign 
->>brackets.....
->
->Blake,
->
->I heard the equipment for powder coating is expensive (special gun, 
->electrostatic stuff too, recapturing system, special ovens!!!).  Is this 
->true?  About what is the initial investment, and how much does the powder 
->cost.
->

You heard right, it takes big bucks to get started. The powder (supposedly)
can run from $50 to $500 / lb., no idea as to how much a pound covers.

->I've been really interested in purchasing the system for my little shop, 
->but the stories of the cost of the equipment has kept me from seriously 
->persuing it.

It probably wouldn't be worth it unless you plan to do a LOT of coating.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:10 EDT 1996
Article: 27833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe roller bearing adjustment
Date: 3 May 1996 19:10:26 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4mdln2$lmb@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <rich_klopp-0105961338320001@128.18.30.31>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@lime.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Richard W. Klopp (rich_klopp@qm.sri.com) wrote:
: The bearings on my 12" Jet lathe heat up a lot with continuous use on the
: higher speeds. The spindle is also stiff to start turning after sitting. I
: have a hunch that the previous owner set the bearings too tight when he
: installed a Royal lever collet closer attachment. Can someone tell me the
: proper way to adjust the bearings? Do I go for a certain preload (measured
: how?), a certain starting torque, or a certain fraction of a turn of the
: nut after finger tight? I'm worried that if I keep running as is, I will
: toast something.

FIRST, what are you lubricating the bearings with?  Precision machine tool
spindle bearings are usually lubricated with a light oil.  My Atlas 10"
specifies SAE #10 oil.  My Bridgeport specifies something obscure, but I
think it is a similar weight.  If you are using grease, that is definitely
your problem!

On my Atlas, the preload procedure calls for heating the spindle by running
at a medium-high speed (sounds like 1000 RPM, maybe) for a half hour.  You
might have to loosen the bearing preload first.  This expands the spindle,
reducing preload on this arrangement.  Then, tighten the preload nut until
'slight drag' is felt.  (Ah, now that's a precision measurement.)  Then
tighten the preload nut two gear teeth further.  (on this lathe, the preload
nut is right next to the gear that drives the leadscrew gears.)

Now, that preload setting is obviously specific to that particular lathe,
but you get the general idea.

I still have a strong suspicion there is grease packing in your bearings!

				Jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!sgigate.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: IBM Selectric typewriter repair
Date: 3 May 1996 19:20:56 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4mdmao$lmb@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <peter.orban-0205961034380001@132.246.72.31> <quartlowDqsMBv.50p@netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@lime.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

: Peter Orban (peter.orban@nrc.ca) wrote:
: : I picked up an older IBM typewriter, I think it is a version of a
: : Selectric (no visible type number on it), with the ball head. When I
: : plugged it in, the head wiggled a couple of times and then the motor
: : stopped running. So how would I go about cleaning, repairing such a beast
: : myself? Any books or other pointers describing the innards of the machine?

Whew!  These things are a MECHANICAL NIGHTMARE!!!!!  I have broken bands on
them a few times.  In fact, if any of the tiny little levers (they make up
a mechanical digital to analog converter) jump to the wrong position, it will
break $10 - 15 worth of bands!  Everytime!  I just had a simple malfunction,
and I knew what the problem was, so I bought new bands and put them in, but
it was still a big job.  if the whole mechanism is gummed up and out of
whack, it will be a huge job for a non-expert to fix it without factory
training (which, of course, you can't get anymore).  In fact, you might not
even be able to get bands or other parts anymore.

If the machine you are working on has the really big ball (about 2" diam)
then it is a composer, not a typewriter (1" diam ball).  Those are even
harder to get parts for.


From whofer@access.ch Sun May  5 13:59:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!rain.fr!pacifica.access.ch!usenet
From: werner hofer <whofer@access.ch>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: METAL SPINNING : Who knows addresses of companies ??????
Date: 3 May 1996 19:37:56 GMT
Organization: Internet Access AG, Zuerich, Switzerland
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4mdnak$41o@pacifica.access.ch>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 194.235.2.18


hello,

can anybody help me ? I'm looking for addresses of companies 
in the specific metal sector "metal spinning".Not far away from
my home, there is such a companie. But i can not pay,because
the price is too much for me.

Can anybody help me ?????


                      Thanks vey much 

                          Werner Hofer  (whofer@access.ch)


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:11 EDT 1996
Article: 27836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Date: 3 May 1996 15:57:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 51
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4mdof2$f94@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4m7msh$dn3@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

I got quite a shock, yesterday. I received a notification, from Enco, that
something  I had ordered, which had been (what a surprise ...)
back-ordered, would be "just a bit longer in coming".  Enclosed was a form
which I 'had' to fill in and return. If they didn't hear from me by May
13th, they would 'assume that I no longer wanted it'. They enclosed an
SASE, too. Everything was hand written, including the envelope.
 
Amazing. I've been dealing with Enco for about two years, have never
placed an order without at least half of it being back-ordered, waited as
long as 14 months (for a 3/8 x 16 tap!), and this is the first time they
have shown any concern about my business.

No matter that I had been originally promised delivery the week of April
4th - Enco suddenly, really cares about me. 

Yeah, right. Maybe they caught wind of this thread and are trying
something new - 'service'. Come to think of it, isn't there a commerce
regulation that requires a dealer to notify a customer if a delivery will
be delayed a certain number of days and give them exactly this opportunity
to be patient or cancel the order?

It only takes one or two orders with Enco to realize what you can and
can't expect to be of reasonably acceptable quality. I go to the regional
store and look and feel first.
I bought a set of thin parallels without being able to see them first and
two pair were ground about 10 degrees out of square! They barely even
stood up, they leaned so much. To their credit, when I called Chicago and
complained, they told me not to bother sending them back and sent me out
another set. It had one set that leaned, but it was a different size from
the two leaners in the first set, so I ended up with one of each size that
was OK. Not great by any stretch of the imagination, but OK.

Not everything is made in Greater China or India, by the way. I've gotten
taps and milling cutters made in England, Canada and Israel. They were
pretty decent.

I could go on and on, but the bottom line is definitely 'caveat emptor',
which with Enco could mean either "Let the buyer beware" or "Abandon all
hope, ye who enter here".

To end on a positive note, I'll add my voice to the chorus of compliments
for MSC. They are nothing less than a joy to deal with and their sales
fliers offer some pretty amazing bargains. I have always received my
orders within 24 hours, unless I ordered on Saturday. And, I have *never*
had an item back-ordered.

------------------
Ed Kingsley





From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:59:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!op.net!news.ironhorse.com!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: To Enco or Not to Enco.?..
Message-ID: <1996May3.174837.2550@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <werewolf.34.028C21D3@neosoft.com> <4lhjfg$j2r@PEAK.ORG> <4m3q5e$pi7@nnrp1.news.primenet.com> <4mbpol$gi1@kaleka.seanet.com>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 17:48:37 GMT
Lines: 31

In article <4mbpol$gi1@kaleka.seanet.com>,
Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com> wrote:
>I have delt with Enco for about 10 yrs now and I shop [read examine] them very 
>carefully, I'd never buy a machine tool from them but, thier 3 mikes for $30 
>deal can't be beat. Sure I'd like to be able to afford Starret, but I can't, 
>however there are times when nothing less will do. I feel it pays to look and 
>go away and think about it, it took me 3 mos. to buy a 4jaw from them and for 
>the $150 it cost it was a reasonable deal in the end. In short its the ol 
>buyers beware. Bob

The problem is not only the initial problems (to use your micrometer
example you really would need to check the thread barrel accuracy,
anvil face flatness at 4 positions, etc. as well as accuracy) but the
quality of the materials used in the construction (continuing: the
hardness of the threaded barrel and nut, anvil hardness or carbide,
quality of frame (settling over time leading to non-matched anvils,
etc.).  I've got enough problems in the shop that I don't need to deal
with someone else's quality problems.

I'm a lot happier with my old tools (average 1960's manufacture, I
expect) of mixed but good manufacturers than a whole set of newly made
Enco tooling, and I'd bet the cost was actually less than I would have
paid for the Enco tooling.  Just be patient, get anything of good
value when it comes up, and let folks know what you have to trade or
sell.  Eventually you fill that Gerstner model 82 chest with something
you can be proud to own and pass on to your grandchildren.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From edk4@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 3 May 1996 16:09:32 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 21
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <4m594f$11k@tin.monsanto.com>
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In article <4m594f$11k@tin.monsanto.com>, Roger M Weppelman
<RMWEPP@ccmail.exe> quotes:

>>I thought for about 5 minutes of mounting the Dumore on
>>the shaper. It won't work. Too heavy. 
>>Charlie,

Might the powered headstock from a Unimat or Sherline lathe be attached to
the ram. They're light and run at fairly high speeds. I know they're not
terribly powerful, but for a one shot operation, it might be doable.

At least the shaper operation is mostly automatic. Add a little patience,
and voila.(?)
I hate to give up this without a fight. It's just too good an idea,
especially if you've got a shaper hanging around, looking for work.

-----------------
Ed Kingsley 





From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun May  5 13:59:12 EDT 1996
Article: 27839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Message-ID: <1996May3.143040.23025@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 May 96 14:30:39 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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 <31856624.3C49@popd.ix.netcom.com> <4masnv$5t4@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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In article <4masnv$5t4@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
|>Am I missing something here?  I thought a Morse taper will hold (almost)
|>anything, regardless of the side loads.  Granted, a Jacobs taper is
|>more likely to self release, but Machinery's Handbook classes the MT as
|>well within the self-holding range.

I always thought "self holding" simply meant the tapers would not
slide apart all by themselves, e.g. how an R8 taper is supposed to work
(but doesn't, always).  Obviously under *some* loads the taper will
separate, else it would be a permanent assembly method!  Typically a
taper-mounted object (e.g. dead/live centers, drill press chucks) is
subjected to mostly axial loads.  The FAQ warns that using a drill press
as a cheap mill can cause problems due to the side loads, and I've assumed
the information came from experience.

Certainly, a large taper and small side loads might be safe, especially
if coupled with some axial loading (such as from a tailstock center).
But from what I've heard heard, this sounds like a dangerous practice.
If a taper-mounted chuck *does* work loose, consider the impact (in more
ways than one).

Actual experience from others on this topic would help!

Jim


From wru@access4.digex.net Sun May  5 13:59:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wru@access4.digex.net (William A. Rutiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Divider heads advice
Date: 3 May 1996 18:45:54 -0400
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4me2b2$95k@access4.digex.net>
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Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
>Since I just replaced the babbit bearing headstock on my lathe with a
>roller bearing one, I have a spare headstock.  I decided it would make a
>

Please describe the headstock transplant. Where did you get the new one?
How expensive was it? Any special fitting problems?

I think my 10" Atlas was made about 1941. The book described its bearings
something like "thin shell". I believe they are similar to the bearings
then used for enginge crankshafts. Did your original heasdtock have poured
babbit bearings?

Thanks
Bill Rutiser





From mettlewk@cris.com Sun May  5 13:59:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing cast aluminum - Can it be done?
Date: 3 May 1996 23:25:07 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
Lines: 36
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Joe Broderick <biko@primenet.com> wrote:

>I have a piece of cast aluminum on a movie camera that is broken off and I was wonder if it 
>can be welded/brazed (please excuse my ignorance of the proper terminology) back 
>together. 
>
>The best way to describe it is that a barrel about the diameter and size of a roll of quaters is 
>inserted into a hole in the cast aluminum piece.  The securing or lockdown finger with the 
>tiedown screw is what is broken off .  It's kinda small but not terribly precision work.
>
>My question is this : can this piece be reattached without warping the cast piece and/or still 
>maintain the alinement of the screw so that it still will secure the piece that gets inserted?
>
>Any comments are appreciated

Obviously I haven't seen it but welding on a small aluminum ( if that is what it is, it might be pot 
metal)  part will almost certainly destroy the threads if they are within a quarter inch of the weld 
zone. I doubt it would warp the cast piece apprecialbly.

It Could be oven soldered with alloy solder from Harris filler metals, this will work wether the piece 
is pot metal or al.   Put yellow orchre into the threads and on the inside of the tube hole to prevent 
the solder from entering, clean the surfaces to bright surface, apply liberal flux (get it to match 
solder) cut tiny pieces of the filler metal and arrange all around the edge of the seam to be soldered 
and bring up to soldering temp about 500. (you MAY have to take your wife out to dinner, but it 
shouldn't stink unless ther is some strange paint to burn off)

Gene

-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From shermcue@iac.net Sun May  5 13:59:13 EDT 1996
Article: 27842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shermcue@iac.net (Sherm Adamson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need inserts made, from 7\16 brass threaded rod
Date: Fri, 03 May 96 21:56:00 PST
Organization: Sherm Custom Billiard Cues
Lines: 11
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I make custom billird cues. I am looking for bids to make brass inserts 
for the shaft connection. They need an O.D. of 7\16 X 14 T.P.I. They need 
to be 1 3\8" long. I.D. drilled 1\4" then tapped 5\16 X 12 (I'll loan the 
special tap) then drilled again 1" deep with a 5\16. This will end up 
with 3\8" of the I.D threaded with the 5\16 X 12TPI and 1" at 5\16 
unthreaded. Maybe it would be better to do both drilling operations 
before tapping. This will give me a quick connect joint. Anyone 
interested in bidding this or wants more info contact me by e-mail at 
shermcue@iac.net  ... I would probably be looking for about 500 of these 
inserts and dont have time to make them myself.



From mikehide@atl.mindspring.com Sun May  5 13:59:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mikehide@atl.mindspring.com (Michael John Hide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 03:47:55 GMT
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Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:

Gentlemen
I am a total amature,in all probability the re is a perfectly good
reason why manufacturers did not do this but,as the bed and ways
essentially determine the performance of the lathe why wasnt the bed
precision ground to accept hardened replacable ways . seems this way
the machine could be essentially returned to as new condition without
too much trouble.Or perhaps the original manufacturers never
envisioned these marvellous machines lasting so long .Anyhow thats 
what this idiot thinks.
   thanks for putting up with me  Mike



From bjc@nworks.com Sun May  5 13:59:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Fri, 3 May 96 20:37:22 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cannon Plans (wanted)
Message-ID: <tcpnntpd.16.5.3.20.37.22.2645935021.548120@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks Online Service
NNTP-Posting-Host: nworks.com
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-=> Quoting Int:tabco@alpha.pulsar.ne to ** All ** <=-

 In> Looking for plans for a cannon, any style.

 In> TABco <tabco@alpha.pulsar.net>

A tad ticked off at someone are we :-)

If I recall, one or two of the books thatLindsay sells have
machining projects, including a cannon or two. One could also
find drawings of various types of cannons, and draw plans from
them.

Regards,
Brad Chaucer

... I'm pleased to see that you're unafflicted with a sense of humour!

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:59:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl4.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Insulation for boiler firebox
Date: 3 May 1996 16:02:36 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4mdh06$l6s@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>,
Bart Smaalders <barts@Eng.Sun.COM> wrote:

snip

>I made a prototype of the firebox using heavy firebrick which apparently
>worked well, but I'm looking for something a lot less heavy.

>Can anyone recommend a relatively thin stiff refractory board from >which
I could construct such a firebox?  I'll use FiberFrax to provide
>insulation around the material, so it doesn't need to be a good
insulator. >In other words, the board would serve as a facing layer to
protect the >FiberFrax from injury.  What is the modern equivelent of
asbestos >millboard?

 >- Bart > 

How about castable refractory?  This stuff comes in various heat 
resistances and some is quite finely divided.  There are some pastes that 
come in 25 lb cans that are loosely called furnace cement also.  The 
blanket stuff is good on the outside, but inside the firebox the castable 
is about the best way to go.  We use it in refinery furnaces alongside 
firebrick and it seems to hold up OK.

JerryK


From mettlewk@cris.com Sun May  5 13:59:14 EDT 1996
Article: 27846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news
From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make small brass plaques?
Date: 3 May 1996 23:23:31 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
Lines: 17
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For one:
 AWARDCRAFT, 100900 Nesbitt Ave South, Bloominton MN   (612)948-0400

We used them for a number of etched plates. From tiny ones to glue onto 
premounted beveled brass escutcion plates to 18" x 24" 3/16 thick.

Gene

-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, 
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From macino@mail.fwi.com Sun May  5 13:59:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: macino@mail.fwi.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: 4 May 1996 01:14:47 GMT
Organization: Fort Wayne Internet
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In <4m5smk$jc@hg.oro.net>, janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson) writes:
>>   gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) writes:
>>  In article <4m1hb8$l80@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>,
>>  Alan D. Bartz <a.bartz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>  >Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
>>  >supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
>>  >prices.
>>  >
>>  >Thanks.
>>  >
>>  >Alan
>>  
>>  
>>  Without question, MSC Industrial Supply Co.; 800-645-7270. Their
>>  3469-page, 10-pound catalog has it all, they deliver to me in Calif.
>>  from New York in 48 hours, with one exception everything I've asked
>>  for has been in stock, and they actually want your business! Example:
>>  I faxed them an order. Two hours later, a nice lady called to say that
>>  a 65-cent item on the list wasn't available, and would I be able to
>>  use the next grade up, at $1.25? How many other companies would call a
>>  customer for something like that?
>>  
>>  I've tried a half-dozen mail order suppliers as well as a local
>>  company and have decided that MSC will be my first choice for all my
>>  tooling and supply needs.
>>  
>>  ___________________________________________________________________
>>  Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>>  Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
>>  Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
>>       and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
>>  CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010
>>  
>>  
>>>>>
>Greg,
>
>I can second your experience with MSC. I ordered a 1" die handle for work. 
>I ordered the USA made, at nearly $14, over the $4 import. It came in looking
>like a total piece of crap. Well machined, but the finish just looked terrible, more 
>like Enco's bottom of the line. I filled out the customer satisfaction card and 
>described my dissapointment.
>
>Two days later, I get a call from MSC. They'd already called Greenfield, the mfg, 
>to notify them of the complaint, and to ask if indeed, it really was made in the 
>USA. (it was)  She offered to send a voucher to return it, but I'd already started
>buffing it out. So, she offered us a discount on our next order.
>
>I was told that each and every one of those Customer Response cards is 
>personally read by the president of MSC.
>A class outfit!
>
> Jon 
>
 Hi all,
 I just read this post, ordered a catalog from MSC (very pleasant phone courtesy)
and told them they were 'hot stuff' on the net! 

                                                                 Jim


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: 4 May 1996 06:08:33 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) wrote:
: 	--Hello, all. I'm making a little aluminum do-dad adn I'm trying 
: to find an economical way to mark the company name and the part 
: description on quantities of them. I have previously been using an 
: ironworker, holding a raised-letter type of stamp, but this is not the 
: greatest. I have seen a technique that involves a sort of pad, probably 
: soaked in some sort of electrolyte, which is pressed (lightly) onto a 
: metal part, using a mask (I think) to etch letters or an image onto a 
: part. The questions: --What is this process generally referred to as? 
: --Who sells this kind of equipment?? --Will it work on an aluminum piece 
: which will later be anodized, without destroying the impression?? 

Ah, ha!  if you are anodizing the part, why not mask the letters on the part
with rubber stamp ink, toner-transfer paper for making printed circuit boards
with a laser printer, or dry film photo-resist?  The mask would protect the
metal where the letters were, and the rest of the metal surrounding the
letters would be anodized and colored!  it would look great, and almost all
the work would be done by the anodizing process you already intend to do!



From user@pacificrim.net Sun May  5 13:59:15 EDT 1996
Article: 27849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: user@pacificrim.net (Alan Heugh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to buy sulfuric acid?
Date: 3 May 1996 06:25:32 GMT
Organization: Pacific Rim Network, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <user-0205962226350001@whatcom-ppp12.pacificrim.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: whatcom-ppp12.pacificrim.net

In article <4m8pp9$iid@crl14.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) wrote:

> In article <4m7r38$a5b@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
> Chester A. Roberts, Jr. <ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu> wrote:
> >
> >I'm at a stage in my locomotive construction where I'll be doing
> >silver soldering.  Kozo, in his articles on silver soldering,
> >recommends using a 10% sulfuric acid pickling bath to clean up
> >the metal work after soldering.

  Avoid holes in your clothes - you don't need to handle concentrated
liquid sulphuric acid at all, in fact the commercial standard jewelry
chemical is "Sparex", available at any jewelry supply company. It's a dry
chemical salt that, when dissolved in warm water, produces mild sulphuric
acid. perfect for cleaning off flux and soldering residues. And, better
yet, the specific chemical is SODIUM BISULPHATE and it's available at
hardware stores and swimming pool supply companys (it's used to lower the
Ph - raise acidity). A small can of this "dry acid" may last years. Add a
few tablespoons to a quart of water, and heat it in a pyrex pot or even an
old crock pot. I keep a canning jar full and heat it in another pot of
water.

-- 
Alan Heugh   (360) 595 2563   aheugh@pacificrim.net
478 Rainbow Drive
Sedro Woolley, Wa. 98284

Rare skill. lost wax carving & jewelry designing - contemporary, antique, extremely naturalistic miniature sculptures: animals, flowers, attractive human faces & figures: email for example photos.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun May  5 13:59:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What type of Milling Machine
Date: 4 May 1996 06:02:39 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.enet.dec.com) wrote:
: I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss an M-head Bridgeport.
: B&S #7 or Morse #2 collets are readily available, and
: you don't need very many anyway.  You could probably
: get by with 3/16", 3/8", and 1/2".

Well, thats right - I have an M-head bridgeport, and it would probably do
fine for his work.  i occasionally am chagrined that I can't use 3/4" 
tooling, and a LOT more arbors and similar things are available in R-8
taper than B&S #7, but I can do a lot with it.  The J-head also has the back
gears to achieve really slow spindle speeds.  That would be nice.  I really
think the power quill feed could be a danger to a novice (like me).  I have
also found that some large diameter work doesn't go well with 1/2" straight
shank tools.  I have a boring head, and I have never gotten really clean
cuts without chatter or patterning on the holes.  I will eventually have to
make a B&S #7 arbor for the boring head.  The 9 x 32" table that goes with
the old M-head machines is mounted on a smaller pedestal and turret than
the newer dovetail-ram machines.  My machine is just barely taller than 6'.
A dovetail-ram J-head bridgeport is well over 6' tall, and with 
variable-speed drive, it is over 7' tall.  That is a limitation for basement
use of the newer machines.



From willis@wco.com Sun May  5 13:59:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Willis Eschenbach <willis@wco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Galvanized Metal Welding
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 23:26:08 -0700
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Well, you should grind off all of the galvanizing before you weld. The 
"smoke" is the zinc fumes from the zinc burning off the metal, and it 
is _very_ toxic.

Take care,

willis


From mettlewk@cris.com Sun May  5 13:59:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing cast aluminum - Can it be done?
Date: 3 May 1996 23:14:31 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
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Joe Broderick <biko@primenet.com> wrote:

>I have a piece of cast aluminum on a movie camera that is broken off and I was wonder if it 
>can be welded/brazed (please excuse my ignorance of the proper terminology) back 
>together. 
>
>The best way to describe it is that a barrel about the diameter and size of a roll of quaters is 
>inserted into a hole in the cast aluminum piece.  The securing or lockdown finger with the 
>tiedown screw is what is broken off .  It's kinda small but not terribly precision work.
>
>My question is this : can this piece be reattached without warping the cast piece and/or still 
>maintain the alinement of the screw so that it still will secure the piece that gets inserted?
>
>Any comments are appreciated

Obviously I haven't seen it but welding on a small aluminum ( if that is what it is, it might be pot 
metal)  part will almost certainly destroy the threads if they are within a quarter inch of the weld 
zone. I doubt it would warp the cast piece apprecialbly.

It Could be oven soldered with alloy solder from Harris filler metals, this will work wether the piece 
is pot metal or al.   Put yellow orchre into the threads and on the inside of the tube hole to prevent 
the solder from entering, clean the surfaces to bright surface, apply liberal flux (get it to match 
solder) cut tiny pieces of the filler metal and arrange all around the edge of the seam to be soldered 
and bring up to soldering temp about 500. (you MAY have to take your wife out to dinner, but it 
shouldn't stink unless ther is some strange paint to burn off)

Gene

-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From kimberln@crl.com Sun May  5 13:59:16 EDT 1996
Article: 27853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silvering
Date: 3 May 1996 15:54:14 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 34
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In article <1996May3.111636.28676@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
Steve Rayner <ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA> wrote:
>
>Perhaps my chemical terminology may have been incorrect.  But I have heard
>many tales of people going to lunch, only to return to a demolished lab, 
>because they failed to safely dispose of the activated solution first.

Some students used to make this stuff and inject it into door locks at 
the college dorm, or dribble it in the hallway.  The results were worthy 
of great mirth to some, but generally capable of injuring someone.

>As a note of interest, the old clock & watch dial makers in England used to
>test the silver chloride solution by tasting it!  When there was no taste 
>of salt or acid it was ready for use.  My great grandfather was a London 
>watchmaker in the last century. My grandmother helped in the shop as a 
>young girl.  She said the dial makers all had black tongues.  I don't know
>how much truth there is to this, but I  believe the activated solution will 
>blacken skin. 

Silver nitrate solution will turn your skin black, positively, no rumor.  
To get rid of it you have to daub on potassium permanganate solution.  
When you see the black turn to bluish red, you then put on sodium sulfite 
to get rid of the permanganate color.  We had a young girl in the lab at 
college that had dribbled silver nitrate on her hands.  There was a dance 
that night, so we did the permanganate thing.  She was nearly crying when 
she saw what the permanganate did to her hands.  After the sulfite, all 
was peachy again.

>************************************************************************
>     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
>************************************************************************


JerryK


From macino@mail.fwi.com Sun May  5 13:59:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: macino@mail.fwi.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Material Source Directory
Date: 4 May 1996 01:32:00 GMT
Organization: Fort Wayne Internet
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This is probably one of my more bizarre thoughts.....
 Has anyone given thought to putting together a 'directory' of places where a 
hobbyist can buy metal and machining 'stuff' at surplus, salvage, or a reasonably
good price? 
 I recently was told about a place in Peoria, Illinois that had 'carbide cutters by the
pound', bulk welding rod, etc. Drove over, only to find that the guy had ceased
operations. Places that sell Aluminum, Brass, sheet steel, in Hobbyist quantities
seem to be harder to find. I have an ftp location that I could keep a 'directory'
available at. Any interest in this idea? It would take some time to put together a
list but I'd do it if there is genuine interest.  A simple format could be: 
   Type of material: (stock, tooling, tools)
   State:
   Location:(maybe directions in some instances)
   Name: (some that I run into, don't even have a business name)
  
 That could at least be start.
 Thoughts?
                                       Jim



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun May  5 13:59:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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References: <4ll7sg$998@nic.wat.hookup.net> <4lnvqo$duv@news-e2b.gnn.com> <4m45k6$5f6@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> <1996May1.091003.22969@roper.uwyo.edu><31881d2c.10083122@news.demon.co.uk>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 19:38:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Gas Turbines
Lines: 33


I've seen the beast - it's EXCELLENT!  Unfortunately on the day I
saw it there was a high wind, and Herr Schreckling is only a
learner on rotary stuff.  The noise, however, was magnificent.

The design is a classic example of lateral thinking - a power
turbine on the hot side is difficult to build (due to the heat!)
and also runs too fast, requiring a lot of gearing to get down to
rotor speed.  He put a power turbine on the input side, with
ducting into the "suck" side of one of his standard turbine
engines. The shaft drives a standard i.c. engine rotor gearing
system at about i.c. engine r.p.m. No clutch is needed. He leant
against the rotor while the engine started, waited until everything
was right, then stood up. The rotor then started spinning.  He
managed a reasonable hover, but nature was against him that day. It
was in the air for a minute or two, then he landed it and shut down
the motor - and he started breathing again! 

As far as power goes, he reckoned it had far more than he needed -
about 1KW shaft power.  He also said that there was scope for
more, but the output turbine starts to get very hot.

I want one! Now!

:-)
 
In article <31881d2c.10083122@news.demon.co.uk>, Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) writes:
>According to some photos in one of the latest British model aircraft
>mags, Schreckling has now built & flown the first gas turbine model
>helicopter.
>
>
>

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From writt@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:17 EDT 1996
Article: 27856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obscene Retro-fit Prices
Date: 3 May 1996 22:00:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4mdt82$j6j@hil-news-svc-3.compuserve.com>,
73744,2077/GO:PPPCONNECT@compuserve.com writes:

>oes anyone has information on Camtronics' whereabouts or phone number?
>
>I would like to get information on low cost CNC controllers (or kits)
>that either use G-code
>or some type of translation software.
>
>Stepper control is fine.
>
>I already have info from Ah-ha!  And have found their prices too high for
>what I want to do,
>which is to make a cnc controlled oxy-fuel cutting table.
>
>

You  can  E-mail Dan Mauch at dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com. They also  have a
web page, but I  don't have  that info.

Bill Rittner


From tonylos@village.ios.com Sun May  5 13:59:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Insulation for boiler firebox
Date: 4 May 1996 01:54:54 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM


>
>Can anyone recommend a relatively thin stiff refractory board from
>which I could construct such a firebox?  I'll use FiberFrax to provide
>insulation around the material, so it doesn't need to be a good insulator.
>In other words, the board would serve as a facing layer to protect the
>FiberFrax from injury.  What is the modern equivelent of asbestos 
>millboard?
>
>Any advice to suitable material is appreciated, as are experiences 


Why don't you go to an oil burner/boiler/plumbing supply house
and get some refractory material. A popular brand is "TARGETWALL".
It is also possible you can get a pre-cast chamber that might fit.
They make generic chambers and are cheap.
Good luck.



From nperry3089@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nperry3089@aol.com (NPerry3089)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Galvanized Metal Welding
Date: 3 May 1996 21:48:14 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have done some welding on galvanized metal and have noticed it tends to
smoke.  Why?  What should I know about this distinctive difference? 
Thanks Brad

Joke ---    What did Mozart leave on his piano bench when he died?  His
last movement...


From shockey@primenet.com Sun May  5 13:59:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leather drive belting
Date: 4 May 1996 07:51:17 -0700
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In article <Pine.SCO.3.91.960502135357.9800A-100000@sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us> "S. Russell Sutton" <suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us> writes:

>I have a Browne and Sharpe #2 surface grinder which is driven by a 1 1/4" 
>leather drive belt.  It is old and beginning to break more frequently.  
>Soon I will not be able to piece it together.  Does any know of a 
>replacement source and is a more permanent material available other than 
>leather?

Look in the Yellow Pages under Power Transmission or 
Bearings. These "Bearing Houses" can usually fill this need 
for you. I have a number of flat belt drives, from 1 1/2" to 4". 
I use a belt (the name of which I naturally can't remember) 
which is a woven product, bonded with some type of synthetic 
material. It has virtually the same slippage characteristics as 
leather, is long lasting, and should be readily available to you.  
It's quite similar (and may be identical) to certain types of 
conveyor belting.

If you have any trouble finding it, let me know and I'll have 
my local supplier get in touch with you.


Good luck,


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sun May  5 13:59:18 EDT 1996
Article: 27860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: AMMACO 7" Shaper price?
Date: 3 May 1996 13:01:45 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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I have a 7" South Bend shaper and use it a lot.

A 7" machine is a good size for model making and
general homeshop I think.

I agree with previous though... $700 is a LOT of
money to pay for a shaper. They seem to be in
vogue right now but perhaps that won't last. I
paid $200 for mine in good shape with having to
do some work on it but not much. For what it's
worth....

Charlie



From xeno357@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:59:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xeno357@ix.netcom.com(Max ben-Aaron )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaper as a surface grinder?
Date: 4 May 1996 13:12:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
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References: <4m594f$11k@tin.monsanto.com> <4mdp5s$fjk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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High their:

In HSM of July/August 1994, on page 28, as part of a series on making a
rifle action by Walter B. Mueller, there is a photograph of a grinding
head he made for his South Bend shaper.

Mb-A

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+

In <4mdp5s$fjk@newsbf02.news.aol.com> edk4@aol.com (Edk4) writes: 
>
>In article <4m594f$11k@tin.monsanto.com>, Roger M Weppelman
><RMWEPP@ccmail.exe> quotes:
>
>>>I thought for about 5 minutes of mounting the Dumore on
>>>the shaper. It won't work. Too heavy. 
>>>Charlie,
>
>Might the powered headstock from a Unimat or Sherline lathe be
attached to
>the ram. They're light and run at fairly high speeds. I know they're
not
>terribly powerful, but for a one shot operation, it might be doable.
>
>At least the shaper operation is mostly automatic. Add a little
patience,
>and voila.(?)
>I hate to give up this without a fight. It's just too good an idea,
>especially if you've got a shaper hanging around, looking for work.
>
>-----------------
>Ed Kingsley 
>
>
>



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sun May  5 13:59:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should this be brass? (9" SB Lathe part)
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 22:31:14 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <r.lee-0305962231140001@ppp6.nantucket.net>
References: <4mdgto$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>

In article <4mdgto$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
(Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:

snip
> Anyway, the compound was still hard to disassemble, because the compound
> rest nut was held in the compound rest swivel very tightly. There isn't
> enough clearance to drive it "in". There was a threaded hole, though,
> that allowed it to be pulled "out", which we did.
snip
> That could be. As I proceeded to clean this part, I really had to wonder...
> why is this brass? It's marked up enough and fits poorly enough that I
> have started to think that it may be a replacement part - yes, it has
> an Acme thread in it, but the ends are very poorly finished. Seems like
> brass is a poor choice for this application because it will wear quickly.
snip


they are made of brass just so they will wear before the lead or X screws
do... it is much easyer and a lot cheaper to replace the nut than the
screw...

if abrasives are let in to the nut (via tool post grinding or the like or
even a lot of cast iron work)  then the nut will act as a lap... and lead
screw wear will result... but keep things clean and one screw on an engine
lathe can last through quite a few sets of nuts...

very high tol lathe (like a schaublin instrument makers lathe) builders
will not sell just the nut... you have to get a matched net and screw set
to hold the as built tol levels... (the instructions on resetting the
spindle bearings on a Schublin for example, require you to work to + or-
.001mm or about .00005 inch levels) 

~R


From davidlindq@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:19 EDT 1996
Article: 27863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com (Davidlindq)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need source for Whitworth/BS dies
Date: 4 May 1996 14:27:07 -0400
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KBC Tools and Machinery lists British Standard Whitworth taps and dies in
their 1996 catalogue. They take credit cards and their minimum order is
$20.00. They have four locations in the United States, in the metropolitan
areas of Detroit, Chicago, St. Louis and San Francisco. In the U.S.
1-800-521-1740 will connect you to the nearest outlet.

They also have three locations in Canada:

Mississauga, Ontario: 1-800-668-5616
Oldcastle, Ontario: 1-800-361-7070
Delta, B.C.: 1-800-561-6400

Home shop machinists in the San Francisco metropolitan area  may like to
know
that their local branch is at 2152 West Winton Ave., Hayward and is
conveniently open 8am to noon on Saturdays as well as 6am to 5pm on
weekdays. When I was in there earlier this week they had a big stack of
their current 665 page catalogue to give away.

While I share the general enthusiasm for MSC's service, rapid delivery and
encyclopedic catalogue, I think KBC is also a source worth knowing about.
They occasionally seem to have items (e.g. Whitworth taps and dies) that
the
other big mailorder places don't list.


David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun May  5 13:59:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leather drive belting
Date: 4 May 1996 16:04:37 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <4mfv6l$1eqe@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu> <4lmdcg$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>  <Pine.SCO.3.91.960502135357.9800A-100000@sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us>
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In <Pine.SCO.3.91.960502135357.9800A-100000@sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us>, "S. Russell Sutton" <suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us> writes:
>
>I have a Browne and Sharpe #2 surface grinder which is driven by a 1 1/4" 
>leather drive belt.  It is old and beginning to break more frequently.  
>Soon I will not be able to piece it together.  Does any know of a 
>replacement source and is a more permanent material available other than 
>leather?
>
>Thanks 
>
>Russ Sutton
>Custom Knifemaker (among other things)

I have replaced many leather belts on machines, and have been satisfied
with the results of the repairs.  As long as the leather is kept clean
and oil-free, it performs well for a non-industrial application.

McMaster-Carr [(908) 329-3200] mail-orders many types of flat
leather belting, and also belt cement.  I have used them as a source
for quite a while.  

You can find sombody to put clips on the belting, or buy a clip tool
but then you have to listen to the click-clack every time the clip
goes around the pulley.

I skive the ends of the belt by C-clamping it to a piece of aluminum
angle stock, and then mounting the aluminum in my milling machine
vise at the angle I wish to skive the belt at.  As long as the milling cutter
is pushing down on the belt, and is also putting it in tension, it cuts
well.

Then clamp the belt into place in your machine as a trial before 
applying cement and gluing it up.  Allow to sit overnight before 
using.

Hope this helps!

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Sun May  5 13:59:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!news.dacom.co.kr!vyzynz!xmission!newsfeed.direct.ca!op.net!news.ironhorse.com!news.unisys.com.br!rjo02.embratel.net.br!news
From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: prazi site?
Date: 28 Apr 1996 10:32:50 GMT
Organization: Inside Information Systems
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Can anyone tell me if the Prazi people have a www site?

I've looked at their brochure, but I need more info before deciding to buy their milling machine.

I think that if they would sell, separately, the user's manual...

I've looked at Sherline's but it too simple a machine to make some gears - you have to copy the gear's 
tooth profile! It won't take a mill cutter.

Many Thanks!


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun May  5 13:59:20 EDT 1996
Article: 27867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should this be brass? (9" SB Lathe part)
Date: 4 May 1996 16:15:19 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 61
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In <4mdgto$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>
>Finally got the compound on my 9" SB apart last night; apparently
>there has been a change in the size standard for pin wrenches. What
>you buy now for a 1" radius wrench comes with a 3/16" diameter pin;
>the holes in the lathe are 5/32". Ed Richley came to the rescue by
>providing a backup lathe and a four jaw chuck; we mounted the wrench
>in a fixture and cut the pin to size. (We briefly contemplated drilling
>the holes out to size, but this seemed like more fun. Now I'll probably
>remove the finish on the wrench, fill in the cast '3/16' and repaint...)
>
>Anyway, the compound was still hard to disassemble, because the compound
>rest nut was held in the compound rest swivel very tightly. There isn't
>enough clearance to drive it "in". There was a threaded hole, though,
>that allowed it to be pulled "out", which we did.
>
>I wondered how I was going to get this back in and aligned properly; it's
>a press fit. Ed thinks that it should be loose, and is just gunked up; 
>alignment is done by threading on the compound rest screw, and then kept
>by tightening down the set screw.
>
>That could be. As I proceeded to clean this part, I really had to wonder...
>why is this brass? It's marked up enough and fits poorly enough that I
>have started to think that it may be a replacement part - yes, it has
>an Acme thread in it, but the ends are very poorly finished. Seems like
>brass is a poor choice for this application because it will wear quickly.
>
>Does anyone know, offhand, if this part should be brass? Maybe Dino (the
>former owner of this lathe) made up a replacement from available stock,
>instead of buying a proper cast iron replacement?
>
>Thanks.

I suspect that the feed-screw nut you talk about is probably 
made of *bronze*, which is a much tougher material than brass.
I think SB used it because it has superior lubrication qualities than
steel or cast iron - that is, the mating part, being made of steel,
would rather run on a different material than steel.  Also, it
is cheaper to replace the nut rather then the feedscrew, so
a slightly softer material like bronze would be sacrificial in a sense.
The nut would wear faster than the steel feedscrew.

Although, I usually see that the wear in parts like this are a result
of lapping - that is, abrasive junk gets on the threads, and wears
both parts equally.

If the threads are *real* sloppy, you could make a new bronze nut.
I did that with my Hardinge milling machine table screw, and it
worked out pretty well.  The compound on a lathe is usually not
called on for repeatability or accuracy, though.  I would be more
concerned about the crossslide screw on the carriage.

Good luck on your project!

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun May  5 13:59:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leather drive belting
Date: 4 May 1996 16:25:03 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 13
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References: <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu> <4lmdcg$oa1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.SCO.3.91.960502135357.9800A-100000@sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us>
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Scott Logan was given a piece of flat plastic belting
to try when he was at NAMES.  It is the type that you
use a hot knife to form the joint.  Looked pretty good
and since it develops more friction than leather, it
might not have to be as wide (as the sample I saw was
about 1" wide).

Try your local bearing & belt supplier.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mheat@hookup.net Sun May  5 13:59:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mheat@hookup.net (Norbert Senf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Insulation for boiler firebox
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 11:26:09 GMT
Organization: Masonry Stove Builders
Lines: 37
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On 3 May 1996 17:49:58 GMT, barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders) wrote:

>As part of my new boiler for the Otter (our 19' steam launch), I need
>to build a circular firebox.  The burner uses oil and the air/oil mist
>is introduced tangentially into the 14" diameter firebox.  There's a
>hole approx 11" in the top of the firebox; the resulting lip serves to
>keep the flame front in the firebox under all but the most outrageous
>firing rates :-).  The heat from a 3 gallon/hour fire is pretty amazing.
>
>I made a prototype of the firebox using heavy firebrick which apparently
>worked well, but I'm looking for something a lot less heavy.  FiberFrax
>or Kaowool have been suggested, but these flexible blankets seem rather
>subject to mechanical damage from the rather vigorous circular flame
>front, loading paper/kindling for starting the fire,  and the occasional
>introduction of a steam lance for tube cleaning.
>
>Can anyone recommend a relatively thin stiff refractory board from
>which I could construct such a firebox?  I'll use FiberFrax to provide
>insulation around the material, so it doesn't need to be a good insulator.
>In other words, the board would serve as a facing layer to protect the
>FiberFrax from injury.  What is the modern equivelent of asbestos 
>millboard?
>
A.P. Green Refractories has a number of products:
Insblok 19  - a fairly rigid mineral fiber millboard 
Zirconium Rigidizer - a liquid that you paint onto ceramic fiber to
rigidize the surface - this is how glass melting furnaces are done.
Insulating firebrick - various grades. Basically they are foamed clay
- very light, rigid abrasion resistant surface.
========================================================
Norbert Senf			email 	mheat@hookup.net
Masonry Stove Builders		fax 	819 647 6082
RR 5 Shawville Québec J0X 2Y0	voice 	819 647 5092
========================================================
   Visit our website at http://mha-net.org/msb 




From bryant@sce.carleton.ca Sun May  5 13:59:21 EDT 1996
Article: 27870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Bryant <bryant@sce.carleton.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: GORTON O-16A Mill
Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 21:19:27 -0400
Organization: Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada
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Does anybody out there have an experience with the Gorton O-16A mill?  I
looked at one today as part of my continuing quest to find a quality
replacement for my current Taiwanese mill/drill, and basically it would
seem to be what I'm looking for.

One catch is that getting it into my basement could be a major problem.
Though it's not a large machine, it's VERY solidly built, and roughly
estimating the weight of the major casting gave a result of about 1000
pounds.  Another is that both the X and Y leadscrews are 8TPI, giving 
an awkward 0.125 per revolution (I can see this making co-ordinate 
drilling a real nightmare).  My biggest misgiving, however, is probably
the spindle, which is not R8 but instead takes what I understand to be a
proprietary type of collet.  These are generally similar in shape to R8
collets but rather smaller, with the straight portion having an outside
diameter of about 5/8 inch.  Also, in place of the usual groove, there
are three large flats on this portion of the collet, making it more
triangular than round.  Can anybody identify these collets and let me
know whether they can still be obtained?  Unfortunately the vendor only
has two collets and more would certainly be desirable.  Also one wonders
whether drill chuck and Morse taper adapters might be obtainable.  At
present it is impossible to use a taper shank drill on the machine, and
using a drill chuck is only possible by mounting one on a shaft which
can then be gripped using one of the two collets.

Some dimensions:  table 24" x 9"
                  travel 18.5" x 9"
                  quill travel 3"
                  footprint (excluding overhangs) 21" x 31"
                  floor to base of ram 48"

                    - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)


From rpmer@aol.com Sun May  5 13:59:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rpmer@aol.com (RPMer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 4 May 1996 15:55:17 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Greetings All,

I want to learn how to weld and do some home projects, mostly fairly small
and not much over a 1/4 to 3/8 inch steel. I'm thinking about getting an
oxy-acetylene outfit, either the little portable 10 cubic foot bottles or
the 40 cubic foot bottles. Transportation and storage room are limited. 

According to what I've read you can't have a withdrawal rate from the
acetylene tank over 1/7th the cylinder contents in an hour. Does that mean
you can't work with a tip that draws...say 10 cubic feet an hour with a
small bottle? Or just that you weld for a very short time with it and then
let the bottle rest for a while before drawing out any more gas?

Or should I forget gas altogether and get one of those little wire
welders.

Thanks for the help.
Rodger


From markpowl@airmail.net Sun May  5 13:59:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: markpowl@airmail.net (Mark Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: *New Machinist & Autocad Homepages! *
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 14:03:21 GMT
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Hello,
 I have just completed my first installment of my home page. I have
different pages set up for the Machinist, the Autocad enthusiast, and
the Hot Air Balloon enthusiast. Check it out at "
http://web2.airmail.net/markpowl/ " Let me know how you like it!



From wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk Sun May  5 13:59:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wayne weedon <wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should this be brass? (9" SB Lathe part)
Date: Sat, 04 May 96 09:19:28 GMT
Organization: Fdos Design
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In article <4mdgto$nuj@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
           cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com "Chris Kantarjiev" writes:

> That could be. As I proceeded to clean this part, I really had to wonder...
> why is this brass? It's marked up enough and fits poorly enough that I
> have started to think that it may be a replacement part - yes, it has
> an Acme thread in it, but the ends are very poorly finished. Seems like
> brass is a poor choice for this application because it will wear quickly.
> 
> Does anyone know, offhand, if this part should be brass? Maybe Dino (the
> former owner of this lathe) made up a replacement from available stock,
> instead of buying a proper cast iron replacement?

 It's probably Phospher Bronze which is the correct material for a
leadscrew nut, and can also look like brass.  Is there not backlash
adjustment for it?

-- 
wayne weedon


From lindy@bronze.coil.com Sun May  5 13:59:22 EDT 1996
Article: 27874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.concourse.com!usenet
From: Jeffrey Lindemuth <lindy@bronze.coil.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Question about 12L14 steel
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 07:53:19 -0400
Organization: LakeShore Cryotronics
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12L14 steel contains lead to make it free machining. Other than not 
chewing on the stuff, does anyone know if any precautions should be 
taken when machining it?

Jeff Lindemuth
lindy@coil.com


From mikma@sci.fi Sun May  5 13:59:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Matti Marttinen <mikma@sci.fi>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam engine timing
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:36:51 -0700
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I'm trying to draw plans for small (bore 50 mm) double-acting one-cylinder steam engine with 
Stephenson valve gear.

I think that for lowest possible steam consumption and smooth
running there must be four "cycles" in the process:
Steam inlet, steam expansion,steam exhaust and also some compression
before piston reaches T.D.C. Steam inlet must begin just before T.D.C.

Now the questions for the steam gurus:
What are the best values (in degrees crank-angle) for opening
/closing inlet and exhaust ports? How many degrees should the valve cam
be ahead of piston crank?

And the final question: Is there any simple formula for calculating
horsepower when main dimensions of the engine and steam pressure are known?

Thanks in advance

M.Marttinen
Finland


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:59:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Q: AMMACO 7" Shaper price?
Message-ID: <1996May4.213147.22059@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <31852793.1160@mail1.netreach.net> <4m46fr$3sn@arl-news-svc-2.compuserve.com> <4md03p$j14@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 21:31:47 GMT
Lines: 19

In article <4md03p$j14@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>,
Charlie Greenman  <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com> wrote:
>I agree with previous though... $700 is a LOT of
>money to pay for a shaper. They seem to be in
>vogue right now but perhaps that won't last. I
>paid $200 for mine in good shape with having to
>do some work on it but not much. For what it's
>worth....

I saw a listing for an Atlas 7" in "Machinery Supermart" asking for
$1050.  Kind of pricey if you ask me.  I paid $250 for mine less than
a year ago and all it's missing is the runner assembly, and seems to
be overkill for the size of work done on these little shapers.  I'll
make one up one of these days.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu Sun May  5 13:59:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu (John M. VerBurg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: 4 May 1996 23:46:09 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
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jrro@watson.ibm.com wrote:

: Perhaps the original poster could elaborate on his needs?


Since you asked:

I am trying to build a high tempeature apparatus to perform magnetic
resonance studies on lthium conducting glasses. The end result of my
research might be a recyclable glass battery which may replace less
environmentally friendly nickel cadmium or lead acid batteries.
 
  The requirements for the heater are: A completely non-magnetic heating
element with a continuous operating temperature of 1000 C. It will be used
to heat nitrogen gas. I believe I can negate the induced field created by
the electric current passing through the heater by running a DC current
through a series of heating element wire that alternaterly run parallel
and anti-parallel to the large static magnetic field. I have thought of
using platinum wire, but the surface area is too small to heat the volume
of gas I need to such a temperature. I want to avoid winding a coiled
resistence wire, b/c it would be much more difficult to negate the current
induced M.F. 
    I would like a cartridge type design, but none availble go to such
temperatures nor are non-magnetic. The heating element must also have the
current leads on only one end. 
    I have thought of using resistence wire imbedded in silicon carbide,
but I cannot machine SiC with the equipment I have available. I could
imbed it in SiC powder, but then I need sheathing material. I have though
about the castable SiC, but I do not have any experience with it.

  In summary, I need a heating element that has the following properties:

No net permanent magnetic moment, non-inductively wound, with any
resultant field orthogonal to the large static field, single ended leads,
large surface area, with a continuous operating temperature of 1000 C,
stable in an N2 or air atmosphere. The maximum dimension are: .250" O.D. x
13" long.  
  
To all who have responded: THANKS!

John VerBurg - Graduate Student 
Dept of Chemistry
Indiana University
Bloomington, Indiana USA


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun May  5 13:59:23 EDT 1996
Article: 27878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!usenet.etri.re.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!news.dacom.co.kr!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: sandblasting
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 18:25:05 +0000
Organization: bnr
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <darylb-0405961825050001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <darylb-3004961332250001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <4mcivp$2gd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4mcivp$2gd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, romeug@aol.com (ROMEUG) wrote:

> >Sounds like you want electrical tape 3ft wide. I experimented with
> >electrical tape and it seamed to work but I ultimately wanted to try
> fancy
> >patterns and electrical tape precluded this
> 
> appreciate your response, electrical tape wwill probably work fine.  have
> just tried multiple layers of contact paper, scored and trimmed it and it
> worked well.  to do patterning, have had good success with cutting acetate
> and spray contact adhesive.
> 
> gabriel

Just curious, how many CFM are you pushing? I was doing 185 CFM (which is
a lot) and the tape held fine. What spay adhesive were you using? My
experience with spray adhesives (which is NOT a lot) would have me picture
acetate flying over the horizon at 185CFM. What is contact paper? 
Please email directly at "darylb@bnr.ca" as I just had a kid and will be
off for a while.


From walter@walter.airtime.co.uk Sun May  5 13:59:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.airtime.co.uk!walter.airtime.co.uk!walter
From: walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (Walter Holmes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Quorn Grinders
Date: Sun, 5 May 1996 00:30:53
Organization: None Specified
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <walter.9.000083CA@walter.airtime.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: walter.airtime.co.uk
Keywords: Source
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Re enquiries location of Quorn Grinders.
The plans & Kits can be obtained at the following adress. S.A.E
Model Engineering Services.
Pipworth Farm.
Pipworth Lane.
Eckington.
Sheffield S31 9EV
Yorkshire 
England.
Pnone 01246 433218


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun May  5 13:59:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ossi.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
Message-ID: <1996May4.224015.22428@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <3179024B.7506@foto.infi.net> <4lnq84$1gf@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4m2sgm$go0@news1.svc> <4mek0g$11ro@mule1.mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 22:40:15 GMT
Lines: 33

In article <4mek0g$11ro@mule1.mindspring.com>,
Michael John Hide <mikehide@atl.mindspring.com> wrote:
>I am a total amature,in all probability the re is a perfectly good
>reason why manufacturers did not do this but,as the bed and ways
>essentially determine the performance of the lathe why wasnt the bed
>precision ground to accept hardened replacable ways . seems this way
>the machine could be essentially returned to as new condition without
>too much trouble.Or perhaps the original manufacturers never
>envisioned these marvellous machines lasting so long

The accuracy needed to add a replaceable bed to a lathe would likely
exceed the work needed to fit the lathe several times after reginding,
so that option would add unnecessary cost to a lathe's price.  In any
case, you'd still have to refit the carriage and possibly the
tailstock after replacing the worn parts of the bed.  The time and
work needed would be the same for regrinding the existing bed or
replacing the worn bed, so there's no real savings.

Your final sentence is the real reason, however.  We're looking at
refitting 30+ year old machines, some even older.  We're doing it
because the final product is better than a cheap import because we can
invest some "sweat equity" and gain some real value that way.  Most of
us couldn't afford to have a pro rebuild one of our machines, but we
can do it ourselves and only send out the hard stuff.

>   thanks for putting up with me  Mike

That's what news forums are for. 

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From ja7616@earthlink.net Sun May  5 13:59:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Jonathan Pratt <ja7616@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 18:04:07 -0700
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <318BFE87.11C8@earthlink.net>
References: <4mg6pu$i62@ecuador.it.earthlink.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting:81343 rec.collecting.cards.discuss:11325 rec.collecting.cards.non-sports:37047 rec.collecting.coins:24292 rec.collecting.dolls:13741 rec.collecting.phonecards:4670 rec.collecting.postal-history:894 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:93732 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:61295 rec.collecting.sport.football:80553 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:47199 rec.collecting.sport.misc:6731 rec.collecting.stamps:27884 rec.collecting.villages:2859 rec.crafts.beads:7155 rec.crafts.brewing:88433 rec.crafts.dollhouses:1267 rec.crafts.glass:2088 rec.crafts.jewelry:11742 rec.crafts.marketplace:7024 rec.crafts.metalworking:27881 rec.crafts.misc:20861 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:5513 rec.crafts.pottery:1811

Wectv wrote:
> 
> MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
> 
> Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
> Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
> about 10 minutes to do!
> 
> If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to
> four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
> (It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
> about ten to forty dollars!
> 
> Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's
> simple to install, and they descramble all channels
> on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!
> 
> For more information, and a complete list of companies
> that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
> $7.95 to:
> 
> Sierra CTV
> P.O. Box 1203
> Secaucus, NJ
> 07096-1203 
we may collect coins, but we are not pirates!!!!


From fabian@li.net Sun May  5 13:59:24 EDT 1996
Article: 27882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!li.net!usenet
From: Fabo <fabian@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: GORTON O-16A Mill
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 09:56:25 -0700
Organization: Islandia Software and Consulting Company
Lines: 62
Message-ID: <318B8C39.30B0@li.net>
References: <318AB09F.1F60@sce.carleton.ca>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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To: John Bryant <bryant@sce.carleton.ca>

John Bryant wrote:
> 
> Does anybody out there have an experience with the Gorton O-16A mill?  I
> looked at one today as part of my continuing quest to find a quality
> replacement for my current Taiwanese mill/drill, and basically it would
> seem to be what I'm looking for.
> 
> One catch is that getting it into my basement could be a major problem.
> Though it's not a large machine, it's VERY solidly built, and roughly
> estimating the weight of the major casting gave a result of about 1000
> pounds.  Another is that both the X and Y leadscrews are 8TPI, giving
> an awkward 0.125 per revolution (I can see this making co-ordinate
> drilling a real nightmare).  My biggest misgiving, however, is probably
> the spindle, which is not R8 but instead takes what I understand to be a
> proprietary type of collet.  These are generally similar in shape to R8
> collets but rather smaller, with the straight portion having an outside
> diameter of about 5/8 inch.  Also, in place of the usual groove, there
> are three large flats on this portion of the collet, making it more
> triangular than round.  Can anybody identify these collets and let me
> know whether they can still be obtained?  Unfortunately the vendor only
> has two collets and more would certainly be desirable.  Also one wonders
> whether drill chuck and Morse taper adapters might be obtainable.  At
> present it is impossible to use a taper shank drill on the machine, and
> using a drill chuck is only possible by mounting one on a shaft which
> can then be gripped using one of the two collets.
> 
> Some dimensions:  table 24" x 9"
>                   travel 18.5" x 9"
>                   quill travel 3"
>                   footprint (excluding overhangs) 21" x 31"
>                   floor to base of ram 48"
> 
>                     - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)AHHHHHHH

Gorton !
My Fist And trusty Mill !!!
Collets are Brown & SHarp, either #9 or #7 taper
They came in both sizes
I did my best work on that mill ( paid $300) for int back in 1990
Lots of shops were folding back then ( the piece dividend did not favor job shops)

Keep in mind:
you have autofeeds in BOTH the X and Y axii 
And no slouch of a drive unit either!
The friggen transmition box was the size of a friggen Volkswagon Tranny
( ok Im overdoing it a bit)

A curios thing to observe:
Sit, yes sit at the machine....
Comfortable huh?
This machine was designed for the MASTER Machinist.
and was desighned to use SITTING, yes SITTING at the machine
Notice that it is a sort of SHORT machine?
Look at the mechanism to tighten the pully....
Pretty friggin impresive huh?
Id like to see Bridgeport top THAT !!!
And take a look at the quill, it too has a great boring mechanism
Good Luck 
Take care of it !
Its a great machine, and over all, it is solid !
Fabo
fabian@li.net


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Sun May  5 13:59:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!torn!storm!m44
From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing cast aluminum - Can it be done?
Message-ID: <23729@storm.LakeheadU.Ca>
Date: 5 May 1996 03:23:30 GMT
References: <3189A039.3EDD@primenet.com>
Sender: news@storm.LakeheadU.Ca
Organization: Lakehead University
Lines: 12
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4


>I have a piece of cast aluminum on a movie camera that is broken off and I 
was wonder if it 

>My question is this : can this piece be reattached without warping the cast 
>piece and/or still maintain the alinement of the screw so that it still will 
>secure the piece that gets inserted?

simple job. Might cost a bit because of the time needed to ensure precise 
alignment, but any well equipped welding/fabricating shop would be able to fix 
the piece. Unless the part was bent when the breakage happened???



From jski@garden.WPI.EDU Sun May  5 13:59:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!bigboote.WPI.EDU!garden.WPI.EDU!jski
From: jski@garden.WPI.EDU (Joseph M. Krzeszewski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stud Removal
Date: 5 May 1996 02:51:43 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4mh53v$d9u@bigboote.WPI.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: garden.wpi.edu

Greetings all,

I need some advice on a project I am about to undertake.

Now that the New England weather has warmed up a bit I am doing all those
repairs on my car that I put off all winter. Among those repairs is
replacing the studs that hold the exhaust system to the cylinder heads of my
1972 air cooled VW. I broke one of them off in February, and they are all in
fairly bad shape. Given that all the studs are very rusty and banged up, I
am replacing them all. 

Now, here are the questions....

1) How should I remove the intact studs (steel studs - Al head)?
   a) brute force
   b) heat and brute force
   c) chemicals and brute force
   d) etc...

2) How should I go about removing the broken stud (broke flush with head)?

I may be way off base here, but could the fact that it was about 30 degrees
out when I was working on this last be responsible for shearing the stud?

BTW, in case anyone is interested, I took the broken stud down to the lab
and performed a microstructural analysis. Very poor materials. The stel had
been spheroidized to make cutting the threads easier, but not heat treated
after. I wonder if these are the original VW parts...

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski		Mechanical Engineering / Materials Science
N5LHF          			 Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
jski@wpi.wpi.edu   		-= CCC Shop Student Hardware Specialist =-


From slvrsmth@ids.net Sun May  5 13:59:25 EDT 1996
Article: 27885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.coast.net!news.sprintlink.net!paperboy.ids.net!usenet
From: "Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director" <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silversmiths' Society now on Web
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 10:08:26 -0700
Organization: Society of American Silversmiths
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <318B8F0A.412F@ids.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dyn029d.egr-ri.ids.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win16; I)

SAS now answers questions on silver Restoration and Conservation, and 
offers tips on Silver Care through its new Web site.   The on-line 
Artisan Referral Service assists in finding the right silversmith for any 
type of commission.  You'll find an International Silversmiths' Tool 
Exchange, Glossary of Silversmithing Terms, Society Exhibition Schedule, 
detailed Member Benefits, participants in our Technical and Design 
Support Service, and schedule of National Silversmithing & Related 
Workshops.  E-mail directly to SAS and its FREE consulting service with 
silver-related questions on silver care, restoration and conservation 
issues not found at the site, silversmithing techniques, and sourcing of 
hard-to-find tools, and supplies.  Visitors can also browse through the 
Artisan Silver Gallery, access a list of Schools with Degree-granting 
Silversmithing Programs, learn proper Slide & Photograph Labeling, and 
get technical information in Shop Talk.  Our Hard-to-Find Goods & 
Services page is a great resource to find obscure suppliers.
-- 
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From fabian@li.net Sun May  5 13:59:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!li.net!usenet
From: Fabo <fabian@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: GORTON O-16A Mill correction
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 09:58:54 -0700
Organization: Islandia Software and Consulting Company
Lines: 67
Message-ID: <318B8CCE.3D16@li.net>
References: <318AB09F.1F60@sce.carleton.ca> <318B8C39.30B0@li.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lisuser22.li.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; I)
To: Fabo <fabian@li.net>

Fabo wrote:
> 
> John Bryant wrote:
> >
> > Does anybody out there have an experience with the Gorton O-16A mill?  I
> > looked at one today as part of my continuing quest to find a quality
> > replacement for my current Taiwanese mill/drill, and basically it would
> > seem to be what I'm looking for.
> >
> > One catch is that getting it into my basement could be a major problem.
> > Though it's not a large machine, it's VERY solidly built, and roughly
> > estimating the weight of the major casting gave a result of about 1000
> > pounds.  Another is that both the X and Y leadscrews are 8TPI, giving
> > an awkward 0.125 per revolution (I can see this making co-ordinate
> > drilling a real nightmare).  My biggest misgiving, however, is probably
> > the spindle, which is not R8 but instead takes what I understand to be a
> > proprietary type of collet.  These are generally similar in shape to R8
> > collets but rather smaller, with the straight portion having an outside
> > diameter of about 5/8 inch.  Also, in place of the usual groove, there
> > are three large flats on this portion of the collet, making it more
> > triangular than round.  Can anybody identify these collets and let me
> > know whether they can still be obtained?  Unfortunately the vendor only
> > has two collets and more would certainly be desirable.  Also one wonders
> > whether drill chuck and Morse taper adapters might be obtainable.  At
> > present it is impossible to use a taper shank drill on the machine, and
> > using a drill chuck is only possible by mounting one on a shaft which
> > can then be gripped using one of the two collets.
> >
> > Some dimensions:  table 24" x 9"
> >                   travel 18.5" x 9"
> >                   quill travel 3"
> >                   footprint (excluding overhangs) 21" x 31"
> >                   floor to base of ram 48"
> >
> >                     - John Bryant (bryant@sce.carleton.ca)AHHHHHHH
> 
> Gorton !
> My Fist And trusty Mill !!!
> Collets are Brown & SHarp, either #9 or #7 taper
> They came in both sizes
> I did my best work on that mill ( paid $300) for int back in 1990
> Lots of shops were folding back then ( the piece dividend did not favor job shops)
> 
> Keep in mind:
> you have autofeeds in BOTH the X and Y axii
> And no slouch of a drive unit either!
> The friggen transmition box was the size of a friggen Volkswagon Tranny
> ( ok Im overdoing it a bit)
> 
> A curios thing to observe:
> Sit, yes sit at the machine....
> Comfortable huh?
> This machine was designed for the MASTER Machinist.
> and was desighned to use SITTING, yes SITTING at the machine
> Notice that it is a sort of SHORT machine?
> Look at the mechanism to tighten the pully....
> Pretty friggin impresive huh?
> Id like to see Bridgeport top THAT !!!
> And take a look at the quill, it too has a great boring mechanism
> Good Luck
> Take care of it !
> Its a great machine, and over all, it is solid !
> Fabo
> fabian@li.net

The collet you have is probably  the optional 
Warner Swazey # 3 collets


From slvrsmth@ids.net Sun May  5 13:59:26 EDT 1996
Article: 27887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.ems.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!paperboy.ids.net!usenet
From: "Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director" <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: METAL SPINNING : Who knows addresses of companies ??????
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 10:03:09 -0700
Organization: Society of American Silversmiths
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <318B8DCD.10C8@ids.net>
References: <4mdnak$41o@pacifica.access.ch>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win16; I)
To: werner hofer <whofer@access.ch>

Metal spinning companies can be found on the supplier page at the SAS 
site.
-- 
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From JTSMold@postoffice.pbinet.com Sun May  5 13:59:27 EDT 1996
Article: 27888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tech.cftnet.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!news.PBI.net!nntp.snfc21.pbi.net!usenet
From: "Jonathan T. Schmidt" <JTSMold@postoffice.pbinet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum Casting Supplies
Date: 5 May 1996 04:38:50 GMT
Organization: Performance Design
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4mhbcq$fsm@nntp.snfc21.pbi.net>
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Does anyone know of suppliers of sand casting equipment in southern CA or 
mail order? I need everything



From tedb@gil.com.au Sun May  5 13:59:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tedb@gil.com.au
Subject: Steel and Guilding metal
Sender: news@gil.com.au
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Date: Sun, 5 May 1996 06:41:14 GMT
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HI.. any one know how to Join Steel nails to Guilding metal using
Silver Solder???



Ted.....

"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*

   tedb@gil.com.au           PGP Public Key available

           http://www.gil.com.au/~tedb

 IRC: #sik #teds #bee        IRC Nicks: silk, mellon, satire

           I-Phone:Ted Buchan (mellon)

_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_,,..-~^*"*^~-..,,_


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:59:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question about 12L14 steel
Date: 4 May 1996 22:59:30 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 13
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References: <318B452F.434B@bronze.coil.com>
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In <318B452F.434B@bronze.coil.com> Jeffrey Lindemuth
<lindy@bronze.coil.com> writes: 
>
>12L14 steel contains lead to make it free machining. Other than not 
>chewing on the stuff, does anyone know if any precautions should be 
>taken when machining it?
>
>Jeff Lindemuth
>lindy@coil.com

Don't drop it on your foot

Dale


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sun May  5 13:59:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Marking: how??
Date: 4 May 1996 23:11:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4mes91$9rf@newsreader.wustl.edu> jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan
M. Elson) writes: 

>Ah, ha!  if you are anodizing the part, why not mask the letters on
the part
>with rubber stamp ink, toner-transfer paper for making printed circuit
boards
>with a laser printer, or dry film photo-resist?  The mask would
protect the
>metal where the letters were, and the rest of the metal surrounding
the
>letters would be anodized and colored!  it would look great, and
almost all
>the work would be done by the anodizing process you already intend to
do!
>

Or it could be anodized a 2nd. time with a different color

Dale



From meadow@dol.ru Sun May  5 13:59:28 EDT 1996
Article: 27892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Meadowcroft <meadow@dol.ru>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 14:02:38 -0700
Organization: Demos Online Service
Lines: 32
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Jonathan Pratt wrote:
> 
> Wectv wrote:
> >
> > MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
> >
> > Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
> > Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
> > about 10 minutes to do!
> >
> > If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to
> > four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
> > (It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
> > about ten to forty dollars!
> >
> > Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's
> > simple to install, and they descramble all channels
> > on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!
> >
> > For more information, and a complete list of companies
> > that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
> > $7.95 to:
> >
> > Sierra CTV
> > P.O. Box 1203
> > Secaucus, NJ
> > 07096-1203
> we may collect coins, but we are not pirates!!!!

But how do we stamp it out?

Michael M


From lindy@bronze.coil.com Sun May  5 13:59:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Lindemuth <lindy@bronze.coil.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 22:40:45 -0400
Organization: LakeShore Cryotronics
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <318C152D.4C18@bronze.coil.com>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <4maika$mbl@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <rich_klopp-0205961615450001@128.18.30.31>
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Richard W. Klopp wrote:
> 
> > > I am trying to find a high temperature alloy that is completely
> > >non-magnetic. I am trying to build a heating element that will have a
> > >continuous operating temperature of 1000 C.  It will be used to heat nitrogen
> > >gas. The metal must be completely non-magnetic as it will be placed in an
> > >8.46 Tesla (84,000 gauss) superconducting magnet.
> >
> > Also consider sapphire or ceramic (alumina) tubing - does it *have*
> > to be bent?
> >
> 
> If it's to be a heating element, it has to be conductive, which sapphire &
> alumina (which is mostly polycrystalline sapphire) are not. Silicon
> carbide ceramic is a nonmagnetic semiconductor, and titanium diboride
> ceramic is a nonmagnetic condiuctor, though rather expensive. How about
> graphite heating elements?
> 
>

If you are looking for a non-magnetic heater element, Nichrome 80/20 (80% Nickel 20% Chromium) is non- 
magnetic. It can be purchased in a wide variety of wire gauges and will operate to 1000 C. If you are 
looking for a non-magnetic material for the heater walls and inconel is not satisfactory then things get 
harder. Using ceramics becomes difficult since most likely the heating element will be in a vacuum space. 
The orginal posting also mentioned 304 SS. This material, although non-magnetic, will undergo a phase 
transition at about 700-800 C (I forget the exact temperature) and will become magnetic when cooled to 
room temperature.

Don't forget the current in the heater element will produce its own magnetic field, so typically the 
heater elements are wound with wire in a manner to minimize the magentic field from the heater current.

Jeff Lindemuth
lindy@bronze.coil.com


From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Sun May  5 13:59:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help on Mills
Date: 5 May 1996 16:12:42 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 22
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>Lastly what is the difference between ENCO and EMCO?
>

About $2,000.  The EMCO machinery is made in Austria per European 
technical standards and is very high quality.   This company is one of 
the few that makes good machinery for the hobby machinist.  Unfortunately,
 the cheap, no quality, Asain imports make the good machine tools look 
like they are vastly over priced.  Quality costs money and is very worth 
while.

In your case, I would recomend the Emco FB-2 mill.  It is a small gear 
head mill that does not require a lot of head room, has a stand and is 
easy to move around.  It is a quality machine and the right size for 
hobby work.  It costs about $3,000 to $4,000 depending on accessories, 
etc.  



-
DENNIS WODTLI  VBTM10A@prodigy.com  Portland, OR, USA




From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun May  5 13:59:29 EDT 1996
Article: 27895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reconditioning...Pour your way back to accuracy.
Date: 5 May 1996 11:07:52 GMT
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In message <4mek0g$11ro@mule1.mindspring.com> - mikehide@atl.mindspring.com
(Michael John Hide) writes:
->
->Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> wrote:
->
->Gentlemen
->I am a total amature,in all probability the re is a perfectly good
->reason why manufacturers did not do this but,as the bed and ways
->essentially determine the performance of the lathe why wasnt the bed
->precision ground to accept hardened replacable ways . seems this way
->the machine could be essentially returned to as new condition without
->too much trouble.Or perhaps the original manufacturers never
->envisioned these marvellous machines lasting so long .Anyhow thats 
->what this idiot thinks.
->   thanks for putting up with me  Mike
->

 Some newer lathes are made with replaceable way sections. Two people I know
have Summit lathes, they have  sections about 12" long which can be replaced
if damaged, -BUT-, when a section is replaced, the entire bed must be
reground to insure accuracy(they are too hard to scrape). This is simply
because no two machines are made _exactly_ the same, and no two sections are
_exactly_ the same.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From Bobfon@mich.com Sun May  5 13:59:30 EDT 1996
Article: 27896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob <Bobfon@mich.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help on Mills
Date: Sun, 05 May 1996 09:50:37 -0700
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I would like some advice on purchasing a mill for home shop use.  I am new to 
this newsgroup so please excuse me if this is an old and thououghly hashed 
out subject.

I have two basic decisions to make, to buy an old (perhaps very old) domestic 
mill, preferable a bridgeport as that is what I am familiar with or to buy a 
new imported machine.  I have about $2k to $3k to spend on the machine and 
tooling.

I'm pretty familiar with the perils of used machines and frankly I would 
prefer not to buy one unless I knew it's history and mechanical condition.

In terms of new imported machines,  I have heard a fair amount about ENCO 
ranging from "pretty good" to "be careful".  I got a strong recomemdation 
about JET from a guy with experience and no ax to grind.  I curious about 
GRIZZLY as they advertise a lot.  I live out in the pukklebrush and don't 
have the option of visiting a store to feel the metal for myself.

Mechanically my preferences are for either a bench mount or short floor 
mount.  A bridgeport would require ceiling modifications.  I would like a 
power table feed and a power quill feed though the table feed may be a 
retrofit later when finances permit. 

I would like to hear not only from satisfied owners but also the horror 
stories.  Just looking at pictures I suspect that a lot of the machines are 
built in the same factories and given different nameplates.  Also service is 
important to the extent that it is required.

Lastly what is the difference between ENCO and EMCO?

Thanks in advance.

Bob Foncannon
BOBFON@mich.com


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: --SUPERBIKE EXHAUST SYSTEMS Made of TITANIUM Anyboy Make Them?--
Date: 11 May 1996 06:16:12 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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-Mayo,H.H. (hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com) wrote:
: A friend of mine in Germany has a small business supplying fiberglass
: components to bike racers. He called me about getting some good quality
: exhaust systems from America. He asked me to inquire if anybody made
: them from titanium. So far, nobody seems to use this metal. Frankly,
: I'm not aware of any property of titanium that would make it more
: suitable for exhaust systems than any number of steels. 

: Is anybody aware of any company that fabricates these using titanium?
: I inquired on a couple of the bike groups, and evidently nobody is
: aware of any company that uses it for this application. What would 
: titanium add to a motorcycle exhaust system anyway other than cost?
: I can't imagine the weight savings would be that substantial.

On a car, the advantage would be light weight and rust (corrosion) 
resistance.  Titanium is a highly corrosion resistant, extremely heat
tolerant metal.  it is extremely difficult to work, however.  Nearly all
metal working methods are made difficult on this metal.  Many people
resort to electron-beam welding for Ti.  it is hard to drill, mill
and grind.  It will catch fire and burn like magnesium in air, and explode
violently if water is used in an attempt to extinguish a Ti fire.
The SR-71 aircraft, some fighter jets, etc. are made of Ti, and most of
the 'hot section' of jet engines are made of Ti.  The exhaust pipes of
jet engines are practically all made of Ti.

On a bike, the cost could come in line with reason in racing applications,
but the raw metal would likely cost several hundred dollars, and the process
of converting metal sheet into pipes and mufflers would likely run into
the thousands, due to the reasons cited above.  I don't know if motorbike
exhaust systems burn up at the same rate as car mufflers, but it is an
idea worth considering if they do.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Reconditioning book
Date: 11 May 1996 06:19:08 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 24
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Alan Frisbie (frisbie@flying-disk.com) wrote:
: For all those people who put off ordering a copy of
: "Machine Tool Reconditioning", get ready for sticker
: shock.   According to their advertisement in the May/June
: issue of The Home Shop Machinist (page 64), the price
: has jumped from $42.00 (plus $4 postage) to $72.95
: (plus $4 postage).   The address is still the same:

:      Machine Tool Publications
:      Suite 208, 1600 University Avenue W.
:      St. Paul, Minnesota 55104

: This price makes it worthwhile to check out the used book
: stores in your area.   About six months ago, a friend called
: to say that he had spotted a copy in perfect condition.
: Shortly after the store opened the next morning I was there
: to buy it -- for $20.00!

Yup, saw that new ad, too.  The new price is probably STILL worth
it, it is a really unique book, and a true treasurehouse of useful
info, but now you really have to have a rebuild in mind before
paying his price.  You got a real good deal!  I think I did OK, at
$46.00 - I know it has been worth it already!



From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 11 May 1996 00:01:21 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 15
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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 Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:

>ultimate and yield strengths are greatly dependent
>on temperature. 

Okay, but does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?

For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075, would 
have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room temperature?

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From vrzalfla@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vrzalfla@aol.com (Vrzal fla)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Delta 14" Bandsaw - Gear Box Question
Date: 11 May 1996 02:16:46 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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References: <hanrahan.141.318E7619@oasys.dt.navy.mil>

My applogies to the group for not clipping the original message with my
reply. 

Jim Vrzal

The original post is as follows:

>Subject:	Delta 14" Bandsaw - Gear Box Question
>From:	hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
>Date:	Mon, 6 May 1996 21:58:49 GMT
>
>I just bought a used Delta 14" Metal/Woodcutting bandsaw and have a
question 
>on the gear box.
>
>This is the older (circa 1950?) model that has a lever to
engage/disengage
>the 
>gear box (which is used for metal cutting speeds.) The newer models have
a 
>push/pull knob to switch from "direct drive" wood speeds to the geared 
>reduction for slower metal blade speeds. Mine has a four step pulley from
the
>
>motor to the gear box, I think the newer may be the same or 3 step.
>
>Question: On this older model, it seems to me that when the gearbox is in
>use, 
>the second belt from the motor to the direct drive (blade pulley) must be

>removed. The newer models allow having both belts on using some type of 
>planetary gear setup, which disengages the direct drive pulley as it
engages 
>the pulley input to the gear reduction.
>
>Is this conclusion correct?
>
>Any other tips or comments on this saw?
> 
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
>  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA
>
>
>



From bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Unitt <news@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cannon Plans (wanted)
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 08:50:36 +0100
Organization: Nowhere in particular...
Lines: 11
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <dV+PcFAMbElxEw3D@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
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Reply-To: Bob Unitt <bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
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In article <NEWTNews.830898507.9822.tabco@TABco.pulsar.net>, TABco
<tabco@alpha.pulsar.net> writes
>
>Looking for plans for a cannon, any style.

By sheer serendipity, 'Model Engineer' has just commenced a
constructional series on building a 9-pounder brass smoothbore.

It starts in the current issue - Vol 176, No 4016.
-- 
Bob Unitt


From blacksmith@rockford.com Thu May 23 14:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28210 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Olson <blacksmith@rockford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metalworking Plans
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 20:32:19 -0700
Organization: The DataXchange Network, Inc
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The best info available can be found at Winston Harness' recently 
updated site. Be sure to check out all of the menu items and save them 
for future reference. Mostly foundry (casting) info and many 
blacksmithing links. Best regards, John Olson, hobby blacksmith and metal 
caster wannabe.


From madmax@cdepot.net Thu May 23 14:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Max Elorza <madmax@cdepot.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source for KDK Toolholders
Date: 11 May 1996 12:12:48 GMT
Organization: Computer Depot, Jackson, CA. 209-223-5043
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I'm having trouble finding a source for KDK Toolholders.  Anybody know of 
a reasonable source?



From Charles.Gallo@worldnet.att.net Thu May 23 14:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28212 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Gallo <Charles.Gallo@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Divider heads advice
Date: 11 May 1996 01:38:36 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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References: <4mbv4k$jpu@kaleka.seanet.com> <4me2b2$95k@access4.digex.net> <4mhhou$hdl@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4mrpq5$iq@byatt.alaska.net> <1996May9.124526.18809@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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To: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) wrote:
>
>You can isolate the gears that make the noise by simply disengaging
>gearing starting at the quick change back to the spindle gear.  This
>will tell you which mesh or tooth profile is the worst and where your
>efforts will be most appreciated.  I found that 3/4 of the noise in my
>Atlas was removed on setting the mesh correctly.
>

Russ,
    Sort of like Programing, devide and conquer (Can't resist a Pun)

BTW You see I finally made into this News group - they have Rec.* blocked 
at work <g>



From Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com Thu May 23 14:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. Michael Thompson" <Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: descrambler
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 16:29:53 -0400
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John M. VerBurg wrote:
 
> Batman: "What's harder than trying to find a needle in a haystack?"
> Robin: "Trying to find a specific needle in a pile of other needles."

Old Persian proverb:

The best hiding places are these:
For a tree, a forest.
For a book, a library.
For a man, a city.

JMT


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Current Shop Rates?
Date: 9 May 1996 15:27:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <3191e36c.2373072@news.campus.mci.net> deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net 

>i have a shop here in kentucky an we sure can't get some of the rates
>i'm seeing here. i have a full shop from new lathes to auto surface
>grinders to radial drills heat treating an such . the most i ever
>charge is 25.00 an then the people think you've robbed them. i guess
>that just goes to show how different parts of the country are in fact
>different! oh that also includes some wire edm work.

Interesting point. I wonder what your rent is at your shop. This goes,
I think to the differences in cost of living, and doing business in
different parts of the country.

Here in New York, if you charged $25.00 an hour for machine work, you
would quickly be out of business. When you have employees who are
making that as an hourly wage, it makes it pretty difficult to charge
that as your labor rate! I would imagine that In the Major cities
around the country the situation is the same.

We spend time in other parts of the country with our racing, and I am
always amazed ( and not a little jealous ) at the cost of operating in
other states. Last year, while in Arizona, we saw a piece of property
with 14 acres, a 2500 sq foot shop, 2000 foot hangar, a paved runway
and a 4400 sq. ft. home for $300,000.00. That property, if here in New
york would easily run over 1.5 MILLION. I could do $25.00 an hour work
in a place like that!

I also believe that shop rates can't be carved in stone in this day and
age. If you have a normal shop rate of $50.00 per hour or $20.00 per
hour, you are going to run into situations that common sense ( and good
business sense ) will require you to modify your rate. If one of my
customers needs a hole drilled and tapped, we will often do it for
free. A guy coming in off the street might get turned away on such a
small job if we are very busy ( but we would send them to someone who
could do the job for them).

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From jhall@atcon.com Thu May 23 14:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stud Removal
Date: Sat, 11 May 96 14:17:51 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
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In article <4modkd$dqn@eos.eos.net>, gdgoen19@eos.eos.net (Glen Goens) wrote:
>Joseph M. Krzeszewski (jski@garden.WPI.EDU) wrote:
>: Greetings all,
>
>: I need some advice on a project I am about to undertake.
>
>: Now that the New England weather has warmed up a bit I am doing all those
>: repairs on my car that I put off all winter. Among those repairs is
>: replacing the studs that hold the exhaust system to the cylinder heads of 
my
>: 1972 air cooled VW. I broke one of them off in February, and they are all 
in
>: fairly bad shape. Given that all the studs are very rusty and banged up, I
>: am replacing them all. 
>
>Been there.  Done that. :-)
>
>I would recommend that you soak the intact studs liberally with a 
penetrating
>oil and then heat the flange with a heat gun or propane torch, clamp a pair
>of vise-grips on the stud and torque away.  For the broken stud you can try
>using a drill and an easy-out in combination with the above tactic.  If all
>else fails, drill the studs out and retap the holes for the next nearest 
>thread size, you can probably replace the metric studs with an SAE thread
>stud unless you're using a strange muffler setup.
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net
>
>P.S. Don't forget to use an anti-seize compound on the new studs.
>
>
I have newer had any luck with easy outs. I think its because to get one 
beefy enough to turn the stud, the drilled hole leaves such a thin wall of 
the stud that the easy out actually forces the stud tighter in the hole. 
	I've never done it but I remember hearing that VW engins come out in 
about twenty minutes, so I would do that, and set up the thing so I could 
drill the studs out on a press or mill and then chase out the holes. I 
shouldn't think a little mis alignment of the new studs would matter to the 
manifold. 
	If you were working on a cast iron block you could just blow the stud 
out with a cutting torch. That has always been the most successful technique 
for me. Brutal though it sounds it works like a charm 'cause the steel stud 
burns up and leaves the bare casting.

John


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Thu May 23 14:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lincoln Tigwave 175
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 23:59:18 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
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Has anyone used the Lincoln Tig Wave 175?

Any Comments? Thanks

  Jeff


From rickmizur@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rickmizur@aol.com (Rickmizur)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sheetmetal fab wanted
Date: 11 May 1996 10:24:44 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hello -
I'm a "midnight engineer" looking for a sheetmetal fab willing to do one
offs (prototypes with no guarantee of a pilot run).  The assembly will be
an electronic chassis (no, it's not available via catalog in the size or
price I'm interested in.  Thanks anyway).  No holes, no finishing.  Just
bare 16 ga. steel to get started.
Any leads in this direction would be much appreciated.  I'm located in the
Allentown - Bethlehem area of PA, although geographic location is not an
important factor right now.
You can reach me at:   email   rickmizur@aol.com     or
phone at 610-866-9232     fax   610-882-2056     or
mail at:   P.O. Box 1980   Bethlehem, PA 18016

Thanks  to all,
Rick


From adam@ihug.co.nz Thu May 23 14:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adam@ihug.co.nz (Brian Adam)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 18:33:26 GMT
Organization: ihug.co.nz
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:6714 rec.crafts.metalworking:28218 rec.crafts.jewelry:11883

On 2 May 1996 13:12:40 GMT, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W.
Swonger) said:

> While processed wafers are a source of silicon, there's a question
>that needs to be answered first - is silicon at all soluble in silver
>at temperatures you can achieve?

Sure. But get the silicon from a metals supplier. Like someone who
makes silicon bronze. A foundry. What's all this talk about melting
down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
exactly is in them!

I add silicon to silver when i'm casting high detail. Got to put in
the right amount. I guess it - about 0.5%. It's  brittle if I put in
too much. 

Tagline = virus

--
Brian Adam    - on RiscPC -     <adam@ihug.co.nz>



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 11 May 1996 00:20:30 GMT
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: I might have missed the part myself about splitting a 30A circuit--my example
: was based on a 20A split circuit, where 12ga wire is OK.  If it were a 30A
: circuit, the wire would need to be able to handle 30+40%, or 42A.  As I
: recall, 12ga THHN wire is good for 40A, so you probably would need 10ga
: wire.

Further clarification:  The NEC says that any given neutral wire must be
capable of carrying 140% of the circuit breaker rating.  For 20A cable,
that's 28A, and according to the ampacity table in the NEC, for THHN 
(conduit type wire), 12ga copper can handle 40A and is fine in a 20A
split circuit.

Pete Brooks



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: tapers and how to?
Date: 11 May 1996 21:08:33 GMT
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I have a taper attachment on my lathe but have never used it, so have been trying it out. 
Problem how does one pick up an existing taper, ie the one in my head stock? I've mounted a 
test indicator on the cross slide, adjusted taper att. to aproximate taper, but indicator will 
always encrease in value then sometimes decrease or encrease depending on how att. is set, as 
the indicator enters headstock. Should I insert indicator all the way in headstock and observe 
readings exiting or should I be reading it going in? Does anyone know the taper used by Logan, 
it's not Morse, nor Jarno, maybe 4 degress? Thanks Bob



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Dividerhead
Date: 11 May 1996 21:15:22 GMT
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Several people have nentioned they have bought the dividerhead from MSC and I an wondering if 
they plan on mounting a 3jaw chuck on it? 3" or 5" or? I've been looking at the 3" 3jaw from 
Enco [flames welcome] and comparing it to thier 5", the 5" is less money than the 3", anyone 
care to comment on relative quality of either, is either suitable for use on a dividerhead?
Any other suggestions for additions to didvider? Thanks Bob



From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Thu May 23 14:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Material Source Directory
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 00:44:49 GMT
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To: Josh@WolfeNET.com
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josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) wrote:
>In <4mec2g$opm@news.fwi.com> macino@mail.fwi.com writes:
>
>>This is probably one of my more bizarre thoughts.....
>> Has anyone given thought to putting together a 'directory' of places where a 
>>hobbyist can buy metal and machining 'stuff' at surplus, salvage, or a reasonably
>>good price? 
>
>It might be better to just add these as more source listings in
>the metalworking FAQ, since it's already maintained and widely
>distributed and has lots of other useful source info.
>
 Josh --

Sounds like a very good idea.

What needs to be done?

               Frank



From congreve@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: Congreve clock plans
Date: 11 May 1996 15:43:20 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat May 11 10:43:20 AM CDT 1996

In <pathal.169.3190DCC3@showme.missouri.edu> pathal@showme.missouri.edu
writes: 
>
>Does anyone have plans for the construction of the Congreve rolling
ball clock?
>Please reply by email.


Bill Smith in Tennessee (WRSmith2@aol.com) sells a book by John
Wilding, in England, which is a complete how to text on building a
congreve clock. Bill's phone number is (615) 947 9671.  He's a nice guy
and has written several how-to clock building books of his own, also.

                  --Alan Heldman


From rhager@millcomm.com Thu May 23 14:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: High-temp non-magnetic metal
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 11:42:38 -0500
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <3194C37E.1645@millcomm.com>
References: <4m9pjc$bdc@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <4maika$mbl@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <rich_klopp-0205961615450001@128.18.30.31> <4mdooh$hn3@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4mgq81$a7c@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>
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John M. VerBurg wrote:
 
>   The requirements for the heater are: A completely non-magnetic heating
> element with a continuous operating temperature of 1000 C. It will be used
> to heat nitrogen gas.

>   In summary, I need a heating element that has the following properties:
> 
> No net permanent magnetic moment, non-inductively wound, with any
> resultant field orthogonal to the large static field, single ended leads,
> large surface area, with a continuous operating temperature of 1000 C,
> stable in an N2 or air atmosphere. The maximum dimension are: .250" O.D. x
> 13" long.

-- 


Maybe I'm missing something here, but WHY heat the gas IN the magnetic field?

Why not just heat it right outside the field, and tube it a few inches into 
the experiment area?  In my experience, when a problem seems insoluble, it's 
usually because I'm trying to solve the wrong problem!

While the description given for the heater needs was very detailed, there 
wasn't any description of the overall apparatus itself, nor any explanation 
for why the gas -had- to be heated -within- the field.

In regards to field-cancelling windings, it's been my experience that you can 
'never' fully cancel the field.  There will always be a residual or an 
asymmetry.  I wouldn't count on the 'anti-parallel winding' method.

In large (utility) transformer design, one of the toughest design challenges 
is the physical support of the windings.  They are of course non-magnetic 
copper, but the flowing current produces thousands of pounds of shear forces.

My suggestion:  Go back to the top level and rethink the overall 
setup.  There's probably a much simpler and more cost-effective way to perform 
this experiment.

Let us know!


        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build stuff" So...     -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 11 May 1996 17:20:13 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4n2i8d$bqk@news1.svc>
References: <4milg9$8rd@tst.hk.super.net> <4mlpd5$1lk@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4mmae8$teh@news.tdl.com>
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The use of 7075 in all cases would seem to be a
no-brainer until you take a look at the strenth
vs temperature curves.  That is why 2024 is to
be preferred for cylinder heads, etc.

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From davidlindq@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com (Davidlindq)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Van Norman mill
Date: 11 May 1996 20:21:58 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 31
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Steve Welk (welk@bisco.kodak.com) wrote:

> Are there any sources for parts or documentation for a Van Norman
milling machine? (or words to that effect)

My copy of  -Serial Number Reference Book for Metal Working Machinery-
(11th
ed., 1994) cites the following as a source for parts for Van Norman
machines:

Repair Parts Inc.
314 Prairie Street
Rockford IL 61107
(815) 968-4499 (phone)
(815) 968-4694 (Fax)

According to the above reference, the trade name "Van Norman" was changed
to
"Atlantic" at some unspecified point in time. I think there may still be a
line of Van Norman machine tools made, all of which are specialized for
automotive repair, e.g. brake lathes. Maybe the old Van Norman line split
up
at some point in the past, with general machine tools going with one
company
under the name "Atlantic", and the automotive repair line going with a a
second company under the "Van Norman" name.

Does anyone know the Van Norman story for sure?

David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From xlch58@netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Divider heads advice
Message-ID: <xlch58Dr4AM2.BJL@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 02:51:37 GMT
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Sender: xlch58@netcom14.netcom.com

David Eiman (david@valleynet.com) wrote:
: I had my eye on one of those cheap dividing heads all last year when 
: they went on sale for $225.  Never bought one.  Finally in November I 
: decided I had to have one.  I called MSC and was told it wouldn't be on 
: sale again until after the first of the year.  The flyer came out and I 
: bought one in December for $246.  I had a project ready to make when it 
: came (two days later) but I had to spend a day taking it apart and 
: cleaning off the cosmoline coating and then reassembling it.  It is a 
: nice piece of tooling and perfectly adequate considering the price.  I 
: did call MSC and suggest that they mention the need for cleaning and 
: oiling the entire mechanism.  We agreed that it was better than having a 
: rusty piece and it is nice to know how a new item works (from the inside 
: out).  

: I am glad I finally broke down and bought it.  It fit right on my 
: mill/drill table and worked very well for the gear I had to make.


   Just got mine today.  Covered in cosmoline but the overal fit,finish 
and condition seems superior to what I have gotten from Enco and Harbor 
Frieght in  the past.  The angle scale on mine was buggered up though.  
the bits of fine cast iron between the degree marks were broken out on 
every other mark.  Has anyone else had this.  Hate to ship it back after 
just receiving it.  


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help on Mills
Date: 11 May 1996 17:24:40 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4n2igo$bqk@news1.svc>
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Actually, I think I have seen a 15" lathe and
a mill at least as large as a Bridgeport at
the machinery show here in Silicon Valley.

The EMCO lathe was absolutely beautiful with
the DRO readouts built into the carriage as
I remember.

The mill was built more like a shaper with the table
hung off the front of the machine.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More On NAMES Please
Date: 11 May 1996 18:15:53 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4n3e49$t0b@acme.sb.west.net>
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: Bob Bailey is offering (HSM, M/J96, Page 7) a tape on the 1995 NAMES show 
: for $24.95.
	*Sigh*! We West-coasters can only view and drool. Hey, Frisbie, 
when is SCHEMES going to get off the ground????
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Bagpipes grew like pumpkins??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From hannu.kandelberg@mbox200.swipnet.se Thu May 23 14:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hannu.kandelberg@mbox200.swipnet.se (hannu kandelberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q plasma cutters
Date: 11 May 1996 22:04:12 GMT
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help neded about how plasma cutters Works ,and the difference between gas 
(argon) and air plasma cutter.
Where to find information?.

hannu.kandelberg@mbox200.swipnet.se



From nanelcam@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nanelcam@ix.netcom.com (Edward J. MacLennan)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 12 May 1996 00:40:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4n3c14$dsi@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4mg6pu$i62@ecuador.it.earthlink.net>
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In <4mg6pu$i62@ecuador.it.earthlink.net> @ (ctv) writes: 
>
>MAKE YOUR OWN CABLE DESCRAMBLER - FAST & INEXPENSIVE!
>
>Making your own Cable Test Box is simple!
>Convert any cable box to a Cable Test Box, and it only takes
>about 10 minutes to do!
>
>If you've seen ads for converters that sell for up to 
>four hundred dollars, you know that this is a great deal.
>(It does the same thing.) All modules are priced from
>about ten to forty dollars!
>
>Once you know how to get the the correct module, it's 
>simple to install, and they descramble all channels
>on all systems. Don't be ripped off any more!
>
>For more information, and a complete list of companies
>that sell Test Modules, send Check or Money order for
>$7.95 to:
>
>Sierra CTV
>P.O. Box 1203
>Secaucus, NJ
>07096-1203
>
>
>

  Am I the only one who doesn't see what this has to do with crafts????
             Just a thought.  Nan
   



From blake@ncweb.com Thu May 23 14:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where to get copywrite stamp?
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 23:18:37 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-32.ncweb.com

Where can I get a metal stamp that had the copywrite logo (C in a circle)
to stamp my artwork?

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From service@ganoksin.com Thu May 23 14:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: service@ganoksin.com (Dr. E. Aspler (Hanuman))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The newest free forum for the gem and jewelry industry’s players.
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:56:06 GMT
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The newest free forum for the gem and jewelry industry’s players.

Orchid - the newest and most directed news group focusing on 
the technical information requirements of the gem and jewelry
industries;
is brought to you by Ganoksin Online.

                 http://www.ganoksin.com/index.htm

Should you wish to join Orchid, 

simply send a Email to:  orchid-request@ganoksin.com
The subject area of the Email should be left blank;
in the body of the Email, simply write - subscribe orchid. 
Be sure to disable any signatures.

                 or chech the Orchid's web page at:

               http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm

Orchid is an open and unmoderated forum for the exchange of 
technical information, ideas and concerns relevant to the 
industries.  Orchid's members are free to request information,
supply opinions, offer their professional services, place
offerings for sale, etc., without limitation through Orchid.

Orchid and Ganoksin Online are dedicated to providing the Web
community with 
resources, and supporting relationships through the 
establishment of a center for the gem and jewelry industry’s
players.

Membership with Orchid is free of charge - Orchid is here for
YOUR benefit.
---------------------------------
Ganoksin Online
Dr. E Aspler
Email: aspler@ganoksin.com
http://www.ganoksin.com/
-----------------------------------



From service@ganoksin.com Thu May 23 14:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: service@ganoksin.com (Dr. E. Aspler (Hanuman))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jeweler's new information center
Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 12:56:11 GMT
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Ganoksin Online invites all parties to contribute manufacturing 
tips, industry relevant information, and articles of interest
to the participants of the gem and jewelry industries for inclusion
in Ganoksin Online's search engine; 

            Tips from the jeweler's bench

     http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

All materials submitted will be credited to the material's source 
with a hyperlink back to the party who submitted the material unless 
otherwise requested.

Ganoksin Online also manages Orchid - a mailing list and open forum
that focuses primarily on technical information for the benefit of 
the gem and jewelry industry's participants.  We kindly invite you
to join Orchid's member list - free of charge.

Should you wish to join Orchid, 

simply send a Email to:  orchid-request@ganoksin.com
The subject area of the Email should be left blank;
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           subscribe orchid
      Be sure to disable any signatures.
---------------------------------
Ganoksin Online
Dr. E Aspler
Email: aspler@ganoksin.com
http://www.ganoksin.com/
-----------------------------------



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: descrambler
Date: 10 May 1996 21:09:16 GMT
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I push the "IGNORE" button for the senders of spam..

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From babydeer@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babydeer@ix.netcom.com(bambi)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 12 May 1996 01:03:42 GMT
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hey jerk, stop posting this garbage in all the news groups.  

YELL:  SPAM, SPAM, SPAM.
>
>
>



From welk@bisco.kodak.com Thu May 23 14:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28237 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!news.onramp.net!news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!frankensun.altair.com!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!newsserver.bisco.kodak.com!not-for-mail
From: welk@bisco.kodak.com (Steve Welk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Van Norman mill
Date: 10 May 1996 13:40:20 -0400
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4mvv24$dns@bissun.bisco.kodak.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bissun.bisco.kodak.com

Are there any sources for parts/documentation for Van Norman mills out there?
The unit in question is a model #22.  Any comments about this unit would be
welcome, as I've come across one at a pretty reasonable price & am thinking
about buying it.

Thanks,
Steve   


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Thu May 23 14:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28238 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!torn!storm!m44
From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Current Shop Rates?
Message-ID: <23767@storm.LakeheadU.Ca>
Date: 12 May 1996 02:04:24 GMT
References: <4mmbe6$9m0@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4mnrd6$b3p@acme.sb.west.net> <4mokqa$5g8@tribune.concentric.net> <3192425D.6149@millcomm.com>
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In article <3192425D.6149@millcomm.com>,
   rhager@millcomm.com (Richard Hager) wrote:

>> >       --Most shops in my area, doing subcontract work for The Big Guys
>> >here in Silicon Beach, charge around $60 to $80 per hour and most have
>> >1-hour minimums...

>> Gene Olson wrote:
>> Which is why the 35 - 50 charged in the midwest seems like such a
>> steel:-)

Hey, I charge $50 just to turn a welding machine on! And then I also charge 
for material... 

Have to do it because once that machine is on, the little dial on the hydro 
company meter is turning at faster than light speed.  {GRIN}

That's one of the reasons I "don't" encourage people to stand around watching 
me work. I know it's "their job" and they are paying for me to do it, but I 
can work a lot faster without having to worry about them burning out their 
eyeballs when I shut mine and zap a tack... and I don't have to stop and 
explain why I'm hitting their [insert your choice] with a large ballpeen.

Seriously, I once had an elderly couple giving me heck for hitting their oil 
pan so hard. They were afraid I'd damage it worse than it was! I was 
astonished, because they had their Honda in a friends shop to get the oil pan 
repaired AFTER they had ripped it open on a rock! I explained that "yes, I had 
to hit it hard because the rock had bent it already and I had to bend it back 
into shape before I fixed the hole!" 

Did I charge extra? No, but I laughed like hell for a few days...

I'll stop babbling now and go back to work...


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28239 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hp-pcd!hpbs2500.boi.hp.com!hpax!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: workshop layout
Date: 11 May 1996 22:03:24 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4n32rc$f2i@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <4leq3e$la8@tribune.concentric.net> <101260280@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <4mocsj$d19@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <318FC379.53AF@cdc.com> <4n05uc$dg4@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <4n0mge$kqv@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Peter Brooks (brooksp@corp.hp.com) wrote:
: Further clarification:  The NEC says that any given neutral wire must be
: capable of carrying 140% of the circuit breaker rating.  For 20A cable,
: that's 28A, and according to the ampacity table in the NEC, for THHN 


Oh damn; shouldn't have posted when I was tired.  That's for any *split-phase*
load, where the breakers handle X current, the neutral must be able to handle
X * 1.4 current.  The hots are sized normally.

Pete



From vanhecke@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28240 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 12 May 1996 05:38:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4n3th0$pfn@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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In <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
writes: 
>
>We have laid acetylene bottles down in welding trucks for years.  No
>problem!!!!!!!1  Maybe just lucky!!!!!!!!!
>
Cecil in OK,

What is supposed to happen if you lay an acetelene bottle down?  The
smaller bottles (M is our designation here) are transported laying down
every day.  Personally, I have laid the big bottles down with no ill
effect.  I would not recommend USING an acetelene bottle when it is
laying down.  The chance of the tank pressure pushing some of the
acetone through the gauges and torch is definately there.  We generally
do not use a BIG tank for an hour after moving it from a laying-down to
an upright condition.

--Art



From cbear81438@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28241 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I NEED TO BUY A METAL PRESS, AIR HAMMER, SWAGING PIPE ETC. -- EVEN SECOND...
Date: 12 May 1996 01:58:47 -0400
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How big a press do yooou need?

I have a 100 ton back geared one.

Cecil in OK


From eric@iptcorp.com Thu May 23 14:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28242 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!cobia.gulf.net!willis.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!hodes.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!iptcorp.com!eric
From: eric@iptcorp.com (Eric Wilner)
Subject: Re: Divider heads advice
Message-ID: <Dr9B32.1xu@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <4mso8n$j1j@bubbla.uri.edu>
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 19:49:50 GMT
Lines: 28

simoneau@oce.uri.edu (Larry Simoneau) writes:
: I just received my dividing head from MSC yesterday and spent last
: night cleaning and oiling and cursing.  But when done, the mechanism
: seems to work very well.  I think it is a very good deal.

In the immortal words of d00fUs@aol.com, "Me too!"

I ordered mine on Wednesday; it arrived Friday, and I spend a couple
of hours discombobulating & cleaning it.  It may not be as pretty
as the high-priced ones, but functionally it's great.  The cosmoline
(or whatever) wasn't too much of a nuisance to remove.

For $246, it's a heck of a deal.

Oh, yes: mine came with a threaded backplate for mounting a chuck;
I didn't see that in the ad.

This was my first order from MSC, and I guarantee it won't be the last.

+-------------------- And now for a word from our sponsor --------------------+
|   Eric J. Wilner        (Silicon Gulch Gumby)          eric@iptcorp.com     |
|            Avian upper stage: Aratinga S. ("Tinga") Bird                    |
|   work:  415-494-7500    home:  408-744-1845      flames:  900-767-1111     |
+------------ DISCLAIMER -------------+------------- PROVERB -----------------+
|Do not mix with bleach or other      |Time paradoxes will have given me a    |
|chemicals. Release shipping latch    |headache.                              |
|before operating. No step. ORM-D.    |                                       |
+------ The author is insane.  Any opinions are those of Great Cthulhu. ------+


From alanb@arvism.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28243 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!cnn.exu.ericsson.se!eua.ericsson.se!news.algonet.se!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!zetnet.co.uk!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!arvism.demon.co.uk
From: alanb@arvism.demon.co.uk (Alan Baldwin)
Newsgroups: alt.history.living,alt.magic,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.nude,rec.puzzles,rec.puzzles.crosswords,rec.roller-coaster,alt.sewing,alt.skate-board,alt.skate
Subject: Re: ***I BELIEVE TOO***REAL MONEY***  -  money [1/1]
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 03:37:20 GMT
Organization: ArVis MM
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <nCC6DE21A@arvism.demon.co.uk>
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I don't believie it  - the first person who sends me  $1000 dollars for free 
I'll believe it, love it,  when I get it - but I don't expect it for free! 

THE ORIGINSATION WHO MAILED THIS IS SCAMMING  - PLEASE IGNORE IT.

Yes, please support honest, intelligent, people who need jobs, not these
Email opportunists.

AlanB Manchester, England,














From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28244 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Exhaust systems for motorcycles etc.
Message-ID: <1996May12.112728.27598@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:27:28 GMT
Lines: 15


When I was a vintage car collector, many years ago, some of my friends 
had exhaust systems made from stainless steel.  A local shipyard ( Now 
shut down ) made them for about $400.00 Canadian.  Vintage cars tend to 
be stored, more than they are used, so acids can build up, and attack the 
metal.  

Yes, most UJM motorcycles go through mufflers faster than you can say 
" Jack Robinson "!  They cost $300.00 + Canadian here too.  Thats $12K
for a four muffler ( Brit.- Silencer ) machine!
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28245 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Stud Removal
Message-ID: <1996May12.113044.27697@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
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References: <4mvsia$3ug@goofy.BrandonU.CA> <4mh53v$d9u@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <4mklq6$eh3@argentina.it.earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:30:44 GMT
Lines: 46


In a previous article, palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca (Warren Palmer) says:

>u.ca!usenet
>From: Warren Palmer <palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Stud Removal
>Date: 10 May 1996 16:57:46 GMT
>Organization: Assiniboine Community College
>Lines: 15
>Message-ID: <4mvsia$3ug@goofy.BrandonU.CA>
>References: <4mh53v$d9u@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <4mklq6$eh3@argentina.it.earthlink.net>
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>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)
>

Unfortunately, I remember some cylinder heads with cast in studs.  These
must be drilled out.  A helicoil makes the job much stronger, as the heads
are soft cast aluminum.


>
>On many occasions I have been able to remove the stud by heating it with 
>a torch and then drilling it out (slightly under the tap drill size) 
>using a left-hand drill. Often the left-hand drill will unscrew the stud 
>as it drills.
>-- 
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Warren Palmer     
>Machine Shop Instructor
>Assiniboine Community College
>Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
>(palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca)
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From vanhecke@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28246 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leather drive belting
Date: 12 May 1996 05:12:42 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4n3s0a$6jd@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4ll0iq$fru@bingnet1.cc.binghamton.edu> <Pine.SCO.3.91.960502135357.9800A-100000@sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us> <4mfv6l$1eqe@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4mqk4a$ojf@news.parc.xerox.com> <1996May9.124210.18672@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun May 12 12:12:42 AM CDT 1996

In <1996May9.124210.18672@bbxrbk.basis.com> russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ
Kepler) writes: 
>>I got some leather from the "Tandy Leather Company" along with some
>>synthetic lacing cord (verrrrry strong) and followed the instructions
>>in "How to Ruin a Lathe" by South Bend. 
>            ^^^^
>After a year in High School Meatl Shop I thought that the talent was
>native, not taught.

Unfortunately, the student lacks the experience to see or hear when
something is going wrong, you have to foul-up to see and hear the
disaster.  Be that as it may, I have seen the South Bends take abuse no
one would ever give knowingly.  I bought 60 of them one time (when they
closed a couple of schools) and the most trouble I had with them was
moving them physically.  Suprisingly they had very little wear and no
real damage, It took me 3 weeks to find homes for them at a very nice
profit.

--Art



From brucep@postoffice.ptd.net Thu May 23 14:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28247 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ptd.net!news
From: brucep@postoffice.ptd.net (Bruce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Parts washer solvent
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 13:35:11 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Anyone out there have a good "recipe" for a parts washer solvent?

Thanks in advance

Bruce



From deharhay@worldnet.att.net Thu May 23 14:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28248 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: David E Harhay <deharhay@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Henrob 2000 torch
Date: 12 May 1996 14:06:06 GMT
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To: rec.crafts.metalworking

Has anyone actually used a Henrob?  It is intriguing me due to its claims 
and from what I have seen it do at the NAMES for 2 years now, but I don't 
know of anyone who actually bought one.  Can anyone fill me in, please?



From rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca Thu May 23 14:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28249 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!neonlights.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!agate!news.ossi.com!pagesat.net!supra.wbm.ca!usenet
From: Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 08:22:26 -0600
Organization: WBM Office Systems
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <3195F422.2340@eagle.wbm.ca>
References: <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it>
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To: Paolo Zini <P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it>
CC: rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca

Paolo Zini wrote:
> 
> I have a Mayford Ml7 lathe, when the chuck has been in place for
> some week it is very difficult to unscrew it.
> I have spent a lot of time to true the chuck and I do not like to
> use the hammer...
> I have solved the problem using the chain tool used for can shaped oil
> filters of cars; one on the bull gear another on the chuck.
> This avoids the risk of breaking one tooth of the gear and the risk of
> damaging or untrueing (correct?) the chuck; but ... question:
> It must exist one "standard metod" valid also if you must remove one
> backplate (perfectly round, no holes... etc)...
> Can someone explain the "correct" or "traditional" method to me?
> The chuck and the spindle are perfectly round, no holes, pins, special
> tool...and no
> 
> Paolo
> 
>                             _______
>                             TTTTTTT
>                             | | | |
>                           ===========
> Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
> CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
> Pisa ITALY               ===========
> P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
>                          | | | | |
>                         ===========
>                         TTTTTTTTT
>                         | | | | |
>                        ===========
> Had the same problem.  It was caused by the shoulder on the spindle of 
the lathe.  It had a "dent" which had raised some metal and caused the 
back plate to hang up.  I removed the chuck and took a very light face 
cut on the lathe spindle shoulder.  Never had trouble since.  BTW, I 
broke a tooth on the back gear while removing chuck.


From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28250 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 12 May 1996 11:31:13 -0400
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    ( I asked about an angle section of 2024 vs 6061 vs 7075 Aluminum)
    
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------
>> Does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?

>>For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
>>thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075, would 
>>have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room
temperature?

 Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> writes:

>The use of 7075 in all cases would seem to be a
>no-brainer until you take a look at the strenth
>vs temperature curves.  That is why 2024 is to
>be preferred for cylinder heads, etc.

 I'm not sure I understand your reply.
  
 Mike, is your answer that there *is* a direct correlation between
 stiffness and yield strength, and that yes, 7075 *is* more rigid than
 2024 or 6061, at normal temperatures?

 ------------------
  Ed Kingsley




From shermcue@iac.net Thu May 23 14:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28251 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shermcue@iac.net (Sherm Adamson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find small round belts
Date: Fri, 10 May 96 22:59:08 PST
Organization: Sherm Custom Billiard Cues
Lines: 16
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In article <4mtpq5$6cp@nuacht.iol.ie>, xavier@iol.ie says...
>
>Round plastic belting is extensively used in the printing industry for 
>conveyors etc,it is joined by heating and is availably in a wide range 
of 
>sizes at least from 1/16 to 3/8 . I have used it for a watchmakers lathe 
>with complete sucess.You may be near such a supplier. best of luck from 
>Ireland,xavier.
>
If you know anyone in the Vending industry, try the rubbers from pinball 
machines. I've been using them for years on a device with a sewing 
machine type motor.
Sherm Adamson
Sherm Custom Cues
shermcue@iac.net



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28252 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: repair of splines?
Date: 11 May 1996 06:05:44 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 29
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Walt Slominski (walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com) wrote:

: I am in the throws of an old outboard restoration. The end of the crankshaft
: mates to the driveshaft with a splined coupling. The splines are badly worn.

: Can the hole in the crank and the end of the shaft be built up with weld and
: the splines recut?

Very tricky to do right.

: How are the splines cut? How about some reference material? What tools are
: used?
To make the internal splines a shaper and a dividing head is used, although
you can cut splines with a formed tool in a lathe.  Put the tool in the 
compound rest, as usual, then use the index pin to lock the chuck into 
one of the positions you will be making the spline groove in.  Then using 
the handwheel on the carriage, run it back and forth, advancing the tool 
a few thousandths each pass.  A recent Home Shop Machinist or Projects in 
Metal had a lathe shaping attachment that clamps onto the carriage and 
runs the tool in and out with a lever.

(In large production, a broach is used.)

The external spline can be cut on a mill (horiz or vert) with a dividing
head and tailstock.  It could theoretically be made using the same lathe
technique as described above, but I've never heard of it being done that way.

: I have a lathe but no milling machine and my experience with these is very
: limited.


From williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov Thu May 23 14:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28253 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Dr. Mark E. Williams" <williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find small round belts
Date: 10 May 1996 15:26:40 GMT
Organization: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center -- Greenbelt, Maryland USA
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You could try Gohn Bros. who service the plain and Amish communities. They have
a round leather belt that goes on a treadle sewing machine. Their address is:

Gohn Bros.
Box 111
Middlebury, IN 46540-0111
219-825-2400

Good hunting!
>On Tue, 7 May 1996, Kay R. Fisher wrote:
>
>> I need a small round belt - maybe 10-16 inches long.
>> MSC seems to only list V-Belts.
>> If possible I would like some kind of kit where
>> I could cut it to fit and splice the ends together.
>> 
>> Anybody know where I might find such a thing.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Kay R. Fisher
>> 
>> 

-- 
Dr. Mark E. Williams
Bldg N-159, Rm E-215
NASA/GSFC/WFF/EG&G
Wallops Island, VA 23337
804-824-1744
williams@color.wff.nasa.gov

I wouldn't want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.
Grouch Marx



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28254 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Should this be brass? (9" SB Lathe part)
Date: 11 May 1996 05:50:28 GMT
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W. Kaiser (wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu) wrote:
: Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: > 
: > Oh NO!  Never use a cast iron part on cast iron or steel!  They make a 
: > terrible bearing.  

: I seem to remember reading somewhere that cast iron makes a fine bearing 
: for steel.  

This may be true - it depends on load, speed, number of revolutions of
life, etc.  A leadscrew nut is a WHOLE different ballgame than a low-speed
bearing under light load, however.

: I'll look for a bronze insert, but I think the bearing that holds up the 
: tail end of the lead screw of my South Bend is plain cast iron.

I think my Atlas uses a similar setup, but the bracket is most likely that
awful Zamak that most of the smaller pieces of the Atlas are made of.  It
IS a fine bearing material, however.


From mayfield@elite.net Thu May 23 14:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28255 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mayfield@elite.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SCA armor
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 00:24:28 -0800
Organization: elite.net
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In article <31911118.1DEC@washington.xtn.net>, Bob Hurley
<bhurley@washington.xtn.net> wrote:

> Are there any SCA armorers (or folks that wish to learn) on this group?

I am in the Kingdom of the West, and have made 5 different periods of
armour.  What's up?
Baron Tristan of Phoenix Hall


From n5kzw@eden.com Thu May 23 14:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28256 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edwin bailen <n5kzw@eden.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sliderules?
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:56:27 -0500
Organization: Adhesive Media, Inc.
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In-Reply-To: <318EBC9B.1CC4@gemmary.com> 



On Mon, 6 May 1996, R.C. Blankenhorn wrote:

> We sell antique sliderules.  If you're interested, you can take a 
> look at our web site (with photos) at:  http://www.gemmary.com/rcb/
> 
> See items 37-41 in our instrument catalog, and also in our additional 
> instruments.
> 
> R.C. Blankenhorn
> The Gemmary
> rcb@gemmary.com
> 
> 
How old does a slide rule have to be to be an antique?  I still use mine. 

Last budget cycle, we were told to reduce our proposed budget by taking 
15% out of each line item.  Since the budget items were only to 2 
significant figures, the slide rule was as fast if not faster than using 
a calculator.

The Director of Manufacturing spotted the slide rule and asked 
(incredulously) "What are you doing!?".  My response was "You said you 
wanted conservative figures!"  8=)

Regards,
Ed



From zdave@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28257 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: zdave@aol.com (Zdave)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery
Subject: Re: ****DESCRAMBLE CABLE****FAST & CHEAP!
Date: 10 May 1996 22:16:57 -0400
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>Scott Taylor wrote:
>[deleted]
>> Just to let anyone know who might be interested,(I was in the cable
>> business for ten years), any of these companies who advertise the
modules
>> or "hot boxes" can only sell them outside of their own state and will
>> ALWAYS send a complete list of all purchases made to the cable
companies
>> in the area where the products have been sent. This includes
>> names,addresses and credit card #'s. They have legal guidelines alot of
>> people are not aware of. Beware of the "cable cops" with their meters,
they
>> can see alot more than you think.

"and credit card #'s"?  That would be a violation of US credit laws.  NO
ONE can transfer your credit card # w/o your authorization.  Besides, I've
seen guys selling these modules out of their trunk.  I seriously doubt
they tell the cable companies.

Free the airways.  

Stop the spamming.

Sheese.


From mettlewk@cris.com Thu May 23 14:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28258 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Tube Wanted
Date: 12 May 1996 20:05:33 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
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If you need around 40# of it you can probably have somebody like TEMROC 
Metals in Minneapolis squeeze some for you.  I think they may have dies 
they could use on the shelf.

Gene

-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, 
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From jski@garden.WPI.EDU Thu May 23 14:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 28259 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jski@garden.WPI.EDU (Joseph M. Krzeszewski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stud Removal -- Update --
Date: 12 May 1996 20:10:08 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4n5gj0$hbi@bigboote.WPI.EDU>
References: <4mvsia$3ug@goofy.BrandonU.CA> <4mh53v$d9u@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <4mklq6$eh3@argentina.it.earthlink.net> <1996May12.113044.27697@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: garden.wpi.edu

First of all I would like to thank everyone who replied to my post. This
includes email replies as well. Thank you.

I got the engine out of the car and much to my surprise the stud in question
was not broken off flush with the head. There was about 1/4 inch of stud
hanging out. Vice Grips didn't move the stud, so off came the head.

I wandered down to the school shop and we tried heating the aluminum and
then turning the stud out. No good.

I ended up center punching the stud and drilling it out. I followed up with
a tap and put in a new stud.

In article <1996May12.113044.27697@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
Steve Rayner <ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA> wrote:
>
>
>Unfortunately, I remember some cylinder heads with cast in studs.  These
>must be drilled out.  A helicoil makes the job much stronger, as the heads
>are soft cast aluminum.
>
>
>

I must have one of these heads... I litterally cut threads across some of
the old threads that were still filled with steel from the stud... The steel
remained fused to the aluminum. I am going to assume that if the tap didn't
dislodge the stud, neither will normal use.

Now if I can just find someone to loan me a floor jack I can put the engine
back in to car....


-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski		Mechanical Engineering / Materials Science
N5LHF          			 Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet


From mettlewk@cris.com Thu May 23 14:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 28260 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get copywrite stamp?
Date: 12 May 1996 20:10:43 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
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Rio Grande 
 1-800-545-6566  usa
 1-800-253-9738  ca
95-800-253-9738  mx
 
Gene

-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, 
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From 70414.15@CompuServe.COM Thu May 23 14:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28261 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!homer.alpha.net!daily-planet.execpc.com!news.sol.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Mark Marks <70414.15@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 12 May 1996 22:17:39 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4n5o23$4os$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
References: <4n2vki$dfr@kaleka.seanet.com>

> Does anyone
>know the taper used by Logan, 
>it's not Morse, nor Jarno, maybe 4 degress? Thanks Bob
---
The spindle on the Logan 800 series is a #3 Morse.
The manual for the Logan 800 states:  "The nose is 1.5" diameter 
with 8-pitch National Form threads and has been turned internally 
to a No. 3 Morse Taper."

Mark Marks, Florida


From acar@vcd.hp.com Thu May 23 14:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28262 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!usenet.etri.re.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!news.dacom.co.kr!vyzynz!bofh.dot!newsfeed.concentric.net!news.texas.net!news1.best.com!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!news.vcd.hp.com!news
From: Arne Carlson <acar@vcd.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hole saw tubing notchers.. Anyone tried them?
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 11:37:25 -0700
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
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CC: acar

All,

This is my first posting to this group. I'm glad I found it! :-)

I've been thinking about replacing my Williams lowbuck tubing
notcher with one of the newer hole saw types. I like the idea
of being able to cut a nice notch up to 45 degrees. Has anyone
bought one, and if so, how do you like it?

Thanks in advance for any and all replies,

-- 
****************************************************************
* Arne Carlson                       acar@hpvcpmts.vcd.hp.com  *
*--------------------------------------------------------------*
* If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting *
* them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no   *
* good reason.                                                 *
*                          Jack Handey                         *
****************************************************************


From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28263 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Where to get copywrite stamp?
Date: 12 May 1996 22:25:17 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4n5ogd$kqp@news.dwave.net>
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X-Newsreader: NeoLogic News for OS/2 [version: 4.5 999]

In message <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81> - blake@ncweb.com (Blake
Malkamaki) writes:
->
->Where can I get a metal stamp that had the copywrite logo (C in a circle)
->to stamp my artwork?
->
->Blake
->Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
->>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
->http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake

Don't know where to get a stamp, but the word is copyRIGHT.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28264 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 12 May 1996 22:25:20 GMT
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In message <4n3th0$pfn@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> -
vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke) writes:
->
->In <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
->writes: 
->>
->>We have laid acetylene bottles down in welding trucks for years.  No
->>problem!!!!!!!1  Maybe just lucky!!!!!!!!!
->>
->Cecil in OK,
->
->What is supposed to happen if you lay an acetelene bottle down?  The
->smaller bottles (M is our designation here) are transported laying down
->every day.  Personally, I have laid the big bottles down with no ill
->effect.  I would not recommend USING an acetelene bottle when it is
->laying down.  The chance of the tank pressure pushing some of the
->acetone through the gauges and torch is definately there.  We generally
->do not use a BIG tank for an hour after moving it from a laying-down to
->an upright condition.
->
->--Art
->

I was told by the local welding supplier that the acetone(which holds the
acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when it's laid on it's
side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being jostled around(like
in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet cylinder has been
laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time equal to the time it
was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, it has to be set
upright for 4 hours before using it. 

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/IAK
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From jwcercis@aol.com Thu May 23 14:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28265 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Lathe Chucks
Date: 12 May 1996 22:25:52 -0400
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Three Jaw Chuck
Bergmans Steel Plain Back Chuck  #404  SER 26BE
7.5 Inch Chuck Diameter
Two Piece Jaws
Includes one set of Soft Jaws only; no Hard Jaws
Includes “funny looking” backing plate which can
   be faced off , bored, and threaded as desired.
No Chuck Wrench


Four Jaw Independent Chuck
The Sweetland Chuck
Mfg. By Hoggson & Pettis Mfg. Co.
New Haven, Conn.   USA
8 Inch   #52      (8 13/16 actual diameter) 
Shop made backing plate with 1.5-8 thread
Two Piece reversible Jaws
Includes one set of Hard Jaws and Chuck Wrench


These chucks have both seen plenty of use, but are in good, functional
condition. Since I have never had either mounted on a lathe I can’t
comment on their accuracy, but I see no reason they shouldn’t be OK for
general use.

$50 each plus UPS.

Please respond to   jwcercis@aol.com



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28266 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline taper mounted chucks
Date: 13 May 1996 01:30:45 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
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UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce) wrote:
>
>MSC offers, in their latest sale flyer, 3" chucks with 5C mounting.  
>Sounds slick for small work.  Use your 5C drawbar.
>UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce) wrote:
MSC IS 1-800-645-7270

ALSO

KSB (1-800-521-1740)  OFFERS ON PAGE 306, SEVERAL SHERLINE MOUNTED CHUCK 
OF 3" AND 4" BOTH 3 JAW AND 4 JAW WITH DIFFERENT SHANKS.

MARK ROGO (MORTON) HAD A POSTING A COUPLE OF DAYS AGO HERE OFFERING 
SHERLINE EQUIPMENT.


  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28267 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 13 May 1996 03:23:30 GMT
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I should have stated that I have a model 6560  14X40. Looking in the parts book Logan used 2 
and 3.75 degrees, mine is neither, futher testing today makes me 98% sure its 4degrees.



From yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr Thu May 23 14:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28268 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "moon soo,choi" <yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: used metal working machinery
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 11:26:06 -0700
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We buys and sells used metalworking machinery.
We stock both CNC and manual machines : lathes,milling,drilling,boring,
machining center,turning center,punch press,etc
<url>http://www.dacom.co.kr/~yesmc/


From psh@islandnet.com Thu May 23 14:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28269 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 19:43:26 -0700
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pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm) wrote:

>I was told by the local welding supplier that the acetone(which holds the
>acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when it's laid on it's
>side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being jostled around(like
>in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet cylinder has been
>laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time equal to the time it
>was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, it has to be set
>upright for 4 hours before using it. 

This seems a perfect example of why you should always collect a range
of opinions and then decide yourself - rather than taking some
'expert's' advise.
I would think that you must have talked to the hired (minimum wage)
bottle shuffler - lot's of brawn and little brain .....
Regards
Jens

PS.: sorry for the abruptness and language but I was knocked over by
the fact that somebody who should know better would come up with this
kind of 'advise'.


From tonylos@village.ios.com Thu May 23 14:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28270 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Needed a documented procedure for restoring and maintaining Plain Bearings
Date: 13 May 1996 02:36:30 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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To: erikl@shore.net

erikl@shore.net (Cryptical) wrote:
>I would like to ask of our online metalworking crowd if anybody has successful 
>experiences with reconditioning Plain Bearings and spindles. I am in the process 
>of rebuilding a Heavy 10L model South Bend and a C.F&J Barnes Rockford ILL lathe 
>from the turn of the century. I am the type of person who does not like to "blow 
>things away" due to inexperience and I would like to ask if there is any old 
>timers out there that really know the correct way of handling Plain Bearing 
>maintenance and restoration, and if they would be willing to type me out 

First, you must decide if your bearings need any "restoration".

Put a dial indicator on the spindle nose and put a 2 - 3 ' bar part
way into the spindle and pull. There should be upto .002" deflection
with a moderate force. 

As long as the oil cups are keep full with spindle oil (100 sec vis)
on the South Bend, there really should be no reason to restore the 
bearings. The oil film is known as a hydrostatic film that prevents
contact between the superfinished spindle and the bronze/brass sleeve.
No contact= no wear. Unless some nitwit ran the bearings dry, or decided
to put his cig. butts in the oil cups, or tried to straighten a shaft
by putting it between centers and pounding away.

If you feel that the bearings are gummed up or dirty try flushing them out
by squirting lots of kero or WD-40  into the oil cups. Then blow out and 
refill with spindle oil. BTW, I use Southbend's spindle oil, a little more
expensive but one quart has lasted over 10 years. The medium grade of
Mobil 10# spindle oil via MSC would probable be suitable.

If you want more info try reading up in the Machinery's Handbook in the 
bearing section, and Southbend's "How to Run A  Lathe" is helpful too.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------

S O U T H B E N D S     R U L E !!!!!!!!!!!

A L L  O T H E R S    D I E !!!!!!!!!!!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

o.k. now i feel better.......

tonylos.....



From vince@gw2kbbs.com Thu May 23 14:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28271 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Vince Kub <vince@gw2kbbs.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Heading To South Dakota
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 23:33:45 -0500
Organization: Avalon Networks Inc.
Lines: 43
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To: Edk4 <edk4@aol.com>
In-Reply-To: <4mums7$7tp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>


  Well, you could check out the Pathfinder reactor that was built near
Sioux Falls back when nuclear power was really, really new (they didn't
even have a proper containment building). It never did go online due to
some incident that was never made very clear (although I think it was
fueled). When they finally got around to properly decommissioning the
plant (only a few years ago) there was all sorts of interesting machinery
being taken apart there. 

  When you get out to the Black Hills you will be in serious hardrock
mining country. The Homestake mine (still the largest gold mine in
N.America, I think) based in Lead-Sturgis gives tours of certain parts of
their facility. There's a lot of other historical mining materials out
there - a good place to start would be the geological museum at the South
Dakota School of Mines and Technology in Rapid City. 

		- Vince 


On 10 May 1996, Edk4 wrote:

> I'm going to Sioux Falls, South Dakota, for a week,later this month.
> 
> I live in the Boston area, which is essentially bereft of decent hardware
> stores.
> Other than being the Citibank Credit Card Headquarters and the former
> 'Home Office' for David Letterman's - TOP 10 List, I know nothing about
> Sioux Falls, or that part of the country, for that matter.
> 
> If anyone knows of anything that might interest a machinist, in that
> particular part of the country or, say within 150 miles thereof, I'd be
> much obliged. I'll be going over to Mt. Rushmore, so anything along that
> path would be appreciated, also.
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



From janders@oro.net Thu May 23 14:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28272 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon Model 1710 NC Lathe for Sale
Date: 13 May 1996 04:35:13 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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>   Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com> writes:
>
>  For Sale:  Sheldon Model 1710 NC Lathe with Superior Slo-Syn Controller
>  for Sale.
-------------

I know someone with one of these lathes. It's a nice, heavy duty machine.

 Jon




From blake@ncweb.com Thu May 23 14:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28273 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Henrob 2000 torch
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 00:31:47 -0500
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
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In article <4n4r8e$cpq@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, David E Harhay
<deharhay@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

$ Has anyone actually used a Henrob?  It is intriguing me due to its claims 
$ and from what I have seen it do at the NAMES for 2 years now, but I don't 
$ know of anyone who actually bought one.  Can anyone fill me in, please?

I bought one last September and I really like it so far.  I have used it
for brazing, soldering, and welding, as well as just heating.  I have
welded some copper with it, but had much distortion due to the high heat. 
I will soon be welding  a tractor manifold using old rings- have not tried
this yet.  Have not done aluminum or stainless yet, or cut with it yet
either.  I have a plasma cutter and a mig, and it won't take their places.

The main reason I bought it was from a recommendation of a friend who has
a Dillon torch, which I guess is the same thing.  He loves it, especially
for welding cast iron.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From erikl@shore.net Thu May 23 14:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28274 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: erikl@shore.net (Cryptical)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Advise on Motor Hp and Speed for Antique Lathe.
Date: 13 May 1996 05:41:00 GMT
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Hi Guys.

I recently bought a pile of rusty lathe parts from a guys garage for $125.00. As 
we completely dissasembled,cleaned and reassembled each part from the rubble rose 
a mighty cool old Lathe. By pure chance the lathe was complete including 2 sets of 
change gears, tailstock, tool posts and tools,steady rest, face plates, lathe 
dogs, Belts, wrenches,milling attachment, and various other goodies.

The Lathe is a Barnes from Rockford Illinois. It has a 12" swing 5 foot bed and a 
pattent date of 1887. There is surprisingly little wear on this lathe. I have a 
feeling it was set up to do one thing on occation rather than being a general 
purpose job shop tool.

I did not however get a motor for the lathe.

It has an over the spindle frame with the upper pully set (wood) about 20 inches 
above the headstock of the lathe. This is where the motor mount plate is located.
The largest pully is about 10 or 11 inches in diameter.

Here are my questions:

1. What is the fastest speed I should run the spindle at. It has Bronze Bearings.
I can work the pully ratios back from the spindle to determine the actual Motor 
Rpm. I would like to obtain enough speed to do some wood turning and finishing.

2. How many Horsepower is recomended to run an old 12" metal lathe like this?

3. I am thinking of running a regular V belt from the motor to the upper pully set 
by nesting a cast V pully to the shaft assembly. How much do you think this will 
increase the performance Torque wise of the drive over the leather belt it used to 
have?? I will keep the leather belt of course running down to the spindle.

4. Is anybody out there a real lover of the flatbelt machines and systems? I am 
becoming very turned on by the antique machines and there function. I would love 
to get any leads to indivuals (Especialy in New England USA) who know of, own, or 
maintain such tools. I would like very much to visit such a shop.

5. Can anyone tell me more about this Lathe and its manufacturer.


I will in the next few weeks be putting my Machine tool restorations and Home shop 
development projects on line on in my web site. I will try to photograph it all 
and provide an interactive area for tips and tricks. I am building a library of 
technical books and have become very motivated to build a beautiful shop that I 
can make wierd shit in.


I need your help.

Visit my Website   http://www.dieco.com

I will set up a preliminary web page for the lathe project tomorow.

I will call it http://www.dieco.com/erik/shopnotes.html

I look forward to sharing my interests wth you all.


Thanks


Erik Larson








From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Thu May 23 14:17:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28275 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Sat, 11 May 1996 16:00:10 GMT
Message-ID: <Dr90GB.2Iw@cruzio.com>
To: lewy1@ix.netcom.com,brantley@telepath.com
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lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis) wrote:
In <4mre1s$qe2@zoom2.telepath.com> brantley@telepath.com (Damon
Brantley) writes: 
>
>I apologize ahead of time, if this is a little off topic.
>
>I have some small parts that I would like to try injection molding.
>I was thinking about trying to use a hot melt gun, but substituting 
>some half inch plastic rod for the hot melt sticks.
>
>Has anyone else tried this before or recommend a type of plastic that 
>I could try this idea out on. I have thought about casting resin, but 
>the resin is expensive and seems rather messy to work with.
>
>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Damon --

James I. Lewis said that there was an article in Home Shop Machinist about injection 
molding.

There is an index to "Home Shop Machinist" and "Projects in Metal" magazines  at:

        ftp://plains.uwyo.edu/metal/hsmpimix.txt

It covers 1982-1994.

I did a search there for "injection" and came across the following citations which 
might be of interest:

Plastic Injection Molding Machine Parts 1-4     
HANSON, RODNEY W.       
HSM 91 M/J 16 J/A 32 S/O 44 N/D 32

Plastics Forum, The Parts 1-3   
SELTER, PAUL E, Sr.     
HSM 86 M/A 44 J/A 42 N/D 36

Plastics Forum, The Parts 4-5   
SELTER, PAUL E., SR.    
HSM 87 J/F 48, M/A 34

Enjoy!

                        Frank




From bchapin@rahul.net Thu May 23 14:17:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28276 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Chapin <bchapin@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Atlas Lathe
Date: 13 May 1996 06:41:06 GMT
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Hi:

I have a 1937 Atlas lathe for sale. I inherited it from a close friend 
who passed away about 3 years ago. I planned to use it, but have not done 
so and now need the money more than the lathe.

I live in Santa Clara, CA. I will deliver the table and lathe within 
about 250 miles of home. I am asking $600 for it.

I am a retired Electrical Engineer, so I can't say I am all that familiar 
with lathe terminology, but the book describes it as a "10 inch 
Back-Geared model, having 16 speeds". If anyone is seriously interested, 
but can't make it here to look at it, I have a reasonably good 35mm Cannon 
camera with a zoom lens, so I can take some pictures of it and the 
accessories.

Best wishes,

Bob



From baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca Thu May 23 14:17:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28277 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Baggaley <baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 12 May 1996 15:45:21 GMT
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Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?
I have an old circular saw that seems unusually light for it's size and I'm
curious what it's made of. 

I know magnesium burns, but I'm not that curious.

Dave 



-- 
Dave Baggaley
Thunder Bay, Ontario
mailto:baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca



From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28278 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 23:55:56 +0100
Organization: Home
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David William Jenkins writes
> 
>In article <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini (P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it) 
>writes:
>>I have a Mayford Ml7 lathe, when the chuck has been in place for
>>some week it is very difficult to unscrew it.
>>I have spent a lot of time to true the chuck and I do not like to
>>use the hammer...
>
><snip>
>
>I was taught to put a piece of wood in the jaws of the chuck
>(sideways) to give a lever. Lock up the mandrel by any means at
>your disposal (I put mine into back gear AND leave the "direct"
>connection engaged).  Bang the end of the wood with a fist. 
>Usually works!
>
>The wood is about 25mm x 50mm, 500mm long - use something tough,
>like beech.
>
>
I agree.  This should be all that is necessary.  However, you must make
sure than the spindle nose and chuck bore are really clean, and you
should put a bit of light oil on the spindle before mounting the chuck.
You should not need to screw it on very tightly either.  Screw it gently
until it is almost home, undo it a quarter of a turn, and then screw it
back up sharply, gripping the chuck with both hands, so that the chuck
is seated firmly by its own inertia.    

-- 
Charles


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Thu May 23 14:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28279 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Message-ID: <1996May12.231819.23192@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 12 May 96 23:18:18 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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 <4mrn9d$401@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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|>Gee I don't have a HSM index handy but there was an artical a couple
|>years ago about a plastic injection machine.

Try http://plains/uwyo.edu/~metal for an index.

Searching for injection.
  
   Note: HSM=Home Shop Machinist, PiM=Projects in Metal,
   MN=Margin Notes in PiM, M&M=Metals & More in PiM.
  
Title:  Plastic Injection Molding Machine Parts 1-4
Author: HANSON, RODNEY W.
Issue:  HSM 91 M/J 16 J/A 32 S/O 44 N/D 32
  
End of search.


This is also in the Village Press book "Projects 5" --

Searching for injection.
  
   Note: ProX=Projects #X from HSM, MetX=Metalworking#X from Pim,
         WRX=The Shop Wisdom of Rudy Kouhoupt,
         WFM=The Shop Wisdom of Frank McLean,
         WPD=The Shop Wisdom of Phillip Duclos
  
Title:  Plastic Injection Molding Machine  Pt 1-4
Author: Hanson, Rodney W.
Issue:  Pro5;193;
  
End of search.


From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Thu May 23 14:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28280 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: 13 May 1996 09:19:48 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
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In article <flGV0BA8xmlxEwVe@abdab.demon.co.uk>, Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> says:
>
>David William Jenkins writes
>> 
>>In article <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini (P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it) 
>>writes:
>>>I have a Mayford Ml7 lathe, when the chuck has been in place for
>>>some week it is very difficult to unscrew it.
>>>I have spent a lot of time to true the chuck and I do not like to
>>>use the hammer...
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>I was taught to put a piece of wood in the jaws of the chuck
>>(sideways) to give a lever. Lock up the mandrel by any means at
>>your disposal (I put mine into back gear AND leave the "direct"
>>connection engaged).  Bang the end of the wood with a fist. 
>>Usually works!
>>
>>The wood is about 25mm x 50mm, 500mm long - use something tough,
>>like beech.
>>
>>
>I agree.  This should be all that is necessary.  However, you must make
>sure than the spindle nose and chuck bore are really clean, and you
>should put a bit of light oil on the spindle before mounting the chuck.
>You should not need to screw it on very tightly either.  Screw it gently
>until it is almost home, undo it a quarter of a turn, and then screw it
>back up sharply, gripping the chuck with both hands, so that the chuck
>is seated firmly by its own inertia.    
>
>-- 
>Charles

I think that my solution is still better: no risk of broken teeth on the
bull gear (I have broken one..), the chain tool are cheap (about 4$ each)
and distribute the stress all around the chuck and the gear then you
don't have uneven stress on chuck and jaws, the operation is smoot even
if the chuck is hardly loked and more you can gently remove a chuck
holding a partially machined piece without untrueing it.

Really this is the story:
I have got a russian 3 jaws 4" chuck for 70 $ (NEW!) and i was in the 
process of buildig the backplate for it, to true the mounting face of
the backplate it must be screwed on the spindle and turned and after 
unscrewed to make holes for bolts.
At this point the problem arises, the backplate was solidly locked and
perfectly round....
I have imagined the chain tool solution to solve this problem, but this 
works also for the chuck. 
After trueing work the final result is:

I have placed a ROUND bar in the chuck and it is true +- 0.01 mm or
+- 0.0005" near the jaws and +- 0.03 (+- 0.0015") four inch from jaws;
I think that is a good result for a RUSSIAN 70$ chuck......




                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From gdgoen19@eos.eos.net Thu May 23 14:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28281 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gdgoen19@eos.eos.net (Glen Goens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: 12 May 1996 23:18:47 -0400
Organization: Exodus
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Damon Brantley (brantley@telepath.com) wrote:
:        I apologize ahead of time, if this is a little off topic.
:         I have some small parts that I would like to try injection molding.
:         I was thinking about trying to use a hot melt gun, but substituting 
: some half inch plastic rod for the hot melt sticks.
:         Has anyone else tried this before or recommend a type of plastic that 
: I could try this idea out on. 
:         I have thought about casting resin, but the resin is expensive and 
: seems rather messy to work with.
:         Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I tried a few experiments along these lines once.  The biggest problem I
had was that the plastic melted slower than the glue sticks and had to be
forced through the gun with a pointed stick.  The plastic that I experimented
with was taken from the lids of plastic milk jugs, it's very similar to the
plastic that Mattel used in their toy injection molder back in the 60's.
For best results you should make a bracket to hold the glue gun and rig
a lever to help force the plastic through the gun.

If you want to experiment with casting resin, go to the local auto parts
shop and look for "clear resin for fiberglass".  This stuff should cost
about 8$ a can and comes with a small tube of hardener, it yields a hard
somewhat brittle piece.  If you need a softer, tougher piece, get a can
of body putty and mix it 50/50 with the clear resin and use the hardener
>from  the body putty.  The nice thing about this is that you can always
use the leftovers to patch the old Jalopy ;-).

Out of curiosity, how do you plan to make your molds for this project ??

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net




From SLogan@gnn.com Thu May 23 14:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28282 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 13 May 1996 12:04:44 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
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>> Does anyone know the taper used by Logan, it's not Morse, nor Jarno,
maybe 4 degress? <<
        ^^^^^^^

Bob,

You should learn to ask the source...

The Logan 11, 12, & 14" Lathes used a proprietary taper of 3 degrees, 35
minutes from center until serial number 52576 (approx. late 1949). 
After that, it was 2 degrees from center.

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28283 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Congreve clock plans
Message-ID: <1996May13.104042.22633@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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References: <4mvolj$3pb@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <pathal.169.3190DCC3@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:40:42 GMT
Lines: 38


It was first published in Model Engineer, and later made into a book.  A 
now deceased friend made one, fascinating to watch.



In a previous article, wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com (Steve Wellcome) says:

>!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
>From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Wanted: Congreve clock plans
>Date: 10 May 1996 15:51:15 GMT
>Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
>Lines: 7
>Message-ID: <4mvolj$3pb@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
>References: <pathal.169.3190DCC3@showme.missouri.edu>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: lbsc.shr.dec.com
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>X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)
>To: pathal@showme.missouri.edu
>
>John Wilding wrote a book, "How to Build a Congreve Clock" (or
>some equally obvious title).  I'm not sure of a source, but I
>bet TEE Publishing in England has it or could get it.  I've
>found TEE very easy to do business with; send them your credit
>card # and all the currency transactions happen automagically.
>
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28284 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: 13 May 1996 12:49:22 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it

First, if you are having a great deal of difficulty getting a
chuck to unscrew, you may want to see if you can find the cause.
THOROUGHLY clean the screw thread in the back of the chuck to
be sure there are no chips, and be sure there are no chips on
the spindle thread.

Then, when screwing on the chuck, do so gently.  Don't wind it
on so it bottoms out with a "thunk."

Typically, I find that I can unscrew my lathe chucks by putting
the lathe in back gear without pulling the bull gear pin (to 
lock the spindle), then putting the chuck key in a hole and
pulling on it.  If it takes more than a moderate tug, it generally
means there's a chip jammed in the screw thread that I neglected
to clean out before putting on the chuck.

In that case I've used a strap wrench, as you have.

One can also clamp a longish bar crosswise in the chuck jaws and
use is as a lever.

A last-distch-effort approach, suggested by Guy Lautard in one 
of his "Bedside Reader" books, is to start the lathe in slowest 
back gear, then slip a block of wood between the lathe bed and 
a chuck jaw as the jaw comes around.  



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:17:58 EDT 1996
Article: 28285 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Exhaust systems for motorcycles etc.
Message-ID: <1996May13.103428.22562@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <1996May12.112728.27598@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>  
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:34:28 GMT
Lines: 23


In a previous article, ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) says:

>

>Yes, most UJM motorcycles go through mufflers faster than you can say 
>" Jack Robinson "!  They cost $300.00 + Canadian here too.  Thats $12K
>for a four muffler ( Brit.- Silencer ) machine!              ^^^^^^^^^
>--                                                           ^^^^^^^^^^
                                                       Sorry, $1.2K


>************************************************************************
>     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
>************************************************************************
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Thu May 23 14:17:58 EDT 1996
Article: 28286 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!blackbush.xlink.net!rz.uni-karlsruhe.de!news.uni-kl.de!news.belwue.de!news.dfn.de!news.kfa-juelich.de!news
From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking For UNIMAT info
Date: 13 May 1996 14:18:01 GMT
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4n7gap$qoa@zam201.zam.kfa-juelich.de>
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In article <4mudbk$8f2@acme.sb.west.net>, steamer@west.net says...
>
>        --The manufacturer is Emco-Maier (NOT to be confused with those 
>weasels at Enco) and they are still in business, although their days of 
>making small lathes seem to be over... 
>-- 

They still make small lathes (at least up till the beginning of this 
year). Their current version of the Unimat is a CNC one.

Part of their Compact lathes (don't know about the other ones) are now 
being manufactured by the same Taiwanese company that also put the clones 
on the market. The precision parts (spindle, leadscrew, etc.) are still 
being made by Emco itself and send to Taiwan for assembly.
You can see if it's still one of the 'real' Emco's by its logo. For the 
new ones it says something like 'Emco, designed by...'

Honoré. 



From rmitchel@cftnet.com Thu May 23 14:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28287 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tech.cftnet.com!usenet
From: rmitchel@cftnet.com (Bob Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Artists wanted!
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:34:07 GMT
Organization: CFTnet
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Materials are now being accepted for the 1996 Metal Arts Source Book. 

Deadline is June 21st,1996. 

The CDROM will contain as many as 5,000 high resolution images of contemporary
metalsmiths and jewelers. Resumes and/or artists statements included. CDROM
will also have three very helpful directories of galleries, suppliers, and
contemporary hallmarks, as well as technical articles on platinum, casting
stones in place, over pressure casting, precious metal clay. Also there will
be additional articles on marketing, gallery relationship building, and
interviews with designers working with platinum. 

The completed cdrom will be sent free to 500 galleries as well as all
participating artists.  The cdrom will also be available commercially in
October. Foreign distribution is also anticipated.

For a prospectus, email us you mailing address, or request an image file of
same to be emailed to your mailbox.

Bob Mitchell Productions
5009 Londonderry Drive
Tampa, FL 33647

(813) 977-0124 week days.
(813) 977-8462 FAX anytime.
rmitchel@cftnet.com


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28288 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 13 May 1996 14:06:35 GMT
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It's been almost 30 years...but I think for "stiffness" you'd
be primarily interested in the modulus of elasticity, not the
yield point.  I don't think there is a noticable difference
among various aluminum alloys in that respect, they all have
a modulus of elasticity of somewhere around 10 x 10^6.  (Steel,
on the other hand, is about 3 times that at 30 x 10^6, more
or less.)  If stiffness is an important consideration, you'll
do about 3 times better with steel than with aluminum.







From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Thu May 23 14:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28289 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 08:47:16 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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While the yield strength (the stress at which a material plastically, or
permanently, deforms) and the ultimate strength (the stress at which a
piece of material fractures into two or more pieces) vary dramatically
with alloy content and heat treatment, the stiffness (amount of elastic
deformation given a certain load) of a metal is most dependent on the base
metal of the alloy - in this case aluminum.  The stiffnesses of 2024, 6061
and 7075 aluminum, characterized by the elastic modulus (or Young's
modulus), are essentially the same: 10 million pounds per square 
inch (Mpsi) (about 1/3 that of steel). 

Since you are only interested in elastic properties at room temperature,
you would see no difference in these three alloys.  Your choice then is
driven by other considerations like machinability, cost, availability,
what do you have in your scrap bin, etc. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 11 May 1996, Edk4 wrote:

>  Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
> 
> >ultimate and yield strengths are greatly dependent
> >on temperature. 
> 
> Okay, but does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?
> 
> For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
> thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075, would 
> have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room temperature?
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 
> 
> 
> 


From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28290 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: 13 May 1996 08:35:16 -0700
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Glen Goens (gdgoen19@eos.eos.net) wrote:
: plastic that Mattel used in their toy injection molder back in the 60's.
: For best results you should make a bracket to hold the glue gun and rig
: a lever to help force the plastic through the gun.
	--OBTW, if you can find one of the Mattel injection molders at a 
garage sale, hang on to it! That same basic unit is still sold, new, in 
an industrial version: I saw one at WESTEC this year, with a price tag of 
around $8,000 or so... With luck you might find an original for $20 at a 
flea market...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Bagpipes grew like vegetables??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28291 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Message-ID: <1996May13.104554.22697@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:45:54 GMT
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Even after some 26 years the 4 jaw chuck for my ML7 is tight on the spindle.
I lock it in back gear, and use a bronze bar as a lever, and just pull.  
This avoids shock damage to the gears.  Remember, lathe gears are ofen 
cast iron, or semi steel.



In a previous article, rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca (Roy Robinson) says:

>Paolo Zini wrote:
>> 
>> I have a Mayford Ml7 lathe, when the chuck has been in place for
>> some week it is very difficult to unscrew it.
>> I have spent a lot of time to true the chuck and I do not like to
>> use the hammer...
>> I have solved the problem using the chain tool used for can shaped oil
>> filters of cars; one on the bull gear another on the chuck.
>> This avoids the risk of breaking one tooth of the gear and the risk of
>> damaging or untrueing (correct?) the chuck; but ... question:
>> It must exist one "standard metod" valid also if you must remove one
>> backplate (perfectly round, no holes... etc)...
>> Can someone explain the "correct" or "traditional" method to me?
>> The chuck and the spindle are perfectly round, no holes, pins, special
>> tool...and no
>> 
>> Paolo
>> 
>>                             _______
>>                             TTTTTTT
>>                             | | | |
>>                           ===========
>> Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
>> CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
>> Pisa ITALY               ===========
>> P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
>>                          | | | | |
>>                         ===========
>>                         TTTTTTTTT
>>                         | | | | |
>>                        ===========
>> Had the same problem.  It was caused by the shoulder on the spindle of 
>the lathe.  It had a "dent" which had raised some metal and caused the 
>back plate to hang up.  I removed the chuck and took a very light face 
>cut on the lathe spindle shoulder.  Never had trouble since.  BTW, I 
>broke a tooth on the back gear while removing chuck.
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From BOBFON@mich.com Thu May 23 14:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28292 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BOBFON@mich.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Parts washer solvent
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:35:53 GMT
Organization: mich.com, Inc., Farmington, Michigan
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brucep@postoffice.ptd.net (Bruce) wrote:

>Anyone out there have a good "recipe" for a parts washer solvent?

>Thanks in advance

>Bruce
I use straight mineral spirits (read cheap paint thinner).  I bought a
30 gallon steel garbage can, soldered up the seams to make it
waterproof and put in 15 gallons of mineral spirits.  It works fine
and has been in use 20 years.  I changed the solvent once about 5
years ago.

Good Luck

Bob Foncannon




From vanhecke@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28293 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 13 May 1996 16:07:44 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4n7mog$o57@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
References: <B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com><B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4n3th0$pfn@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <4n5ogg$kqp@news.dwave.net>
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>
>I was told by the local welding supplier that the acetone(which holds
the
>acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when it's laid
on it's
>side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being jostled
around(like
>in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet cylinder has
been
>laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time equal to the
time it
>was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, it has to
be set
>upright for 4 hours before using it. 
>
Does this apply to the big cylinders only?  Like I said we transport
the M cylinders laying down all the time.  On the big cylinders, the
reason for the kapok or cement in cylinders is to provide more surface
area for the acetone to outgas the acetelene.  It also makes it easier
to fill the cylinders.  If you had the same amount of acetone in an
empty cylinder (if it has acetone it isn't empty) the surface area
would be much less than a Kapok filled cylinder and of course the
gas/liquid interface would be less (in area).  It is this increased
surface area that allows you to draw heavy flow from the cylinder.

Once the acetelene gas in in the acetone, it won't come out until the
vapor (acetelene) pressure is decreased by drawing the acetelene off
the cylinder.  I agree with the down/up wait time for large cylinders,
and we kind of do that.  I am going to check on the danger of laying
down a cylinder as I may be screwing-up in that area.

Thanks,

--Art
vanhecke@ix.netcom.com


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28294 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jacobs Spindle Chuck For Sale
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:22:09 GMT
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I have a nice Jacobs Spindle Nose collet chuck for sale it has a d1-4
camlock back full set of collets .062-1.375. I'm asking 375.00
including shipping.
Danny Lester
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28295 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jacobs collet chuck
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:22:16 GMT
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I have a Jacobs spindle nose collet chuck for sale it has a d1-4
backplate full set of collets 1/16-1 3/8 It's in very nice condition
having not been used for last 10 years i'm asking 400.00 including
shipping but will take offers as i no longer have a lathe that it will
fit.
Danny Lester
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From jamest@netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28296 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jimmy T." <jamest@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: --SUPERBIKE EXHAUST SYSTEMS Made of TITANIUM Anyboy Make Them?--
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-Mayo,H.H. wrote:
> 
> exhaust systems from America. He asked me to inquire if anybody made
> them from titanium. So far, nobody seems to use this metal. Frankly,
> I'm not aware of any property of titanium that would make it more
> suitable for exhaust systems than any number of steels.
> 
> Is anybody aware of any company that fabricates these using titanium?
> I inquired on a couple of the bike groups, and evidently nobody is
> aware of any company that uses it for this application. What would
> titanium add to a motorcycle exhaust system anyway other than cost?
> I can't imagine the weight savings would be that substantial.
> 
>                                        Larry Mayo

I know Yoshimura makes a titanium exhaust system for superbikes. They've
been making their "Duplex" system in titanium for almost 8 years now. I
may be wrong on the price but I believe it sells in the $1200 USD range.
For comparison, I paid approx $300 for the same system in steel for use
on my Supersport class race bike.

Vance and Hines probably makes a Ti exhaust for their Yamaha superbikes
(thought I'm not 100% sure of this).

The main reason for a Ti system is weight.  Even though it may seem that
the savings is slight, at the National or International level of 
competition every little bit counts.

Later,

James.


From rshipp@flash.net Thu May 23 14:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28297 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rshipp@flash.net (Randy Shipp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Learn Sheetmetal Skills
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 18:30:20 GMT
Organization: University of North Texas
Lines: 38
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rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) wrote:

>Bob Hurley wrote:
>>Can anyone direct me to a starting place to learn
>>
>>sheetmetal work?
>>I'd like to be able to make medieval armor.
>>

>Get a book on sheet metal work and another book on jewelry making with
>sections on raising and forming. If you have SCA contacts see if you can
>find "The Best of Hammer", a compendium of articles from the East Kingdom
>armorers guild put out in two of three volumes by Raymond's Quiet Press.
>Most of the stuff in there is very, very SCA oriented and not terribly
>authentic, but there's a lot of good material there was well.

>Get yourself a hammer, some sheet metal and go to it.

>There's a lot more to it, but that will start you.

>--RC

Where would one find the tools needed?  I suspect that a lot more than
a hammer and sheet metal are needed; how about anvil, stakes, dishes,
shears, bending brakes, punches, etc?  In order to be able to make
simple things (like a coat of plates, which requires only a shear,
punch, brake and grinder), how much could someone expect to pay?  Or
just for an anvil, hammers, stakes and dishes for simple raising,
dishing and rivetting?

Also, if offered an anvil, and you mostly want to make SCA armor, what
specifications or types of anvils should one consider?

Thanks.

Randy Shipp
rshipp@flash.net



From walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com Thu May 23 14:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28298 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Walt Slominski <walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com>
Subject: Shop work in SW ohio
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From hollen@vigra.com Thu May 23 14:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28299 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Delta 14" Bandsaw - Gear Box Question
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 16:42:23 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
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	<4n1bce$3je@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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>>>>> "Jim" == Vrzal fla <vrzalfla@aol.com> writes:

Jim> My applogies to the group for not clipping the original message
Jim> with my reply.

Jim> The original post is as follows:

>> I just bought a used Delta 14" Metal/Woodcutting bandsaw and have a
>> question on the gear box.  Question: On this older model, it seems
>> to me that when the gearbox is in use, the second belt from the
>> motor to the direct drive (blade pulley) must be removed.

Yes, when you are using the slow metal speeds with the gear box
engaged, the shorter belt will be between one set of two pulleys,
giving either 3 or 4 speeds by changing pulleys.

When the gear box is disengaged, a different longer belt must be
attached between the large diameter pulley and one of the pulleys on
the motor and the shorter slow speed belt must be removed.  One of
three or four high speeds can be chosen by where you position the
large high speed pulley on the shaft so it lines up with one of the
pulleys on the motor.  At least this is what is so on my Delta
(definitely a 1950's model).

dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28300 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 13 May 1996 13:59:12 GMT
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To: goldstar@1stop.com

Are you be careful to have the indicator lever set at center height
while you're trying to measure the taper?




From ganymede@charm.net Thu May 23 14:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28301 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ganymede@charm.net (Ganymede Press)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New Publication for Artists/Craftspeople
Date: 11 May 1996 22:00:31 GMT
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

New national publication called TOPIA focusing on people in all creative 
fields (at all levels). To recieve a free preview issue, e-mail 
ganymede@charm.net with your name and postal address.

Thank you.

--
--
 ganymede@charm.net       Ganymede Press
 1735 Maryland Ave., Baltimore, MD 21201


From fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28302 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 16:14:34 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3197982A.6200@gaas.enet.dec.com>
References: <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it>
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To: Paolo Zini <P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it>

...
> I have a Mayford Ml7 lathe, when the chuck has been in place for
> some week it is very difficult to unscrew it.
...
> Paolo
...

The chuck end is easy.  I keep an old broom handle around and just
open up the jaws and put the wood dowel(broom handle) in it and gently
pull - it usually doesn't take much of a tug.

The mandrel might be harder.  I have a Myford Super 7 and there
is a pin on the left rear of the lathe that you can set to freeze
the mandrel.  I guess the ML-7 doesn't have this.  Check to be sure.
If not what most folks due is engage the back gear without engaging
the spindle (hope I'm not butchering up the terminology too bad).

This locks the mandrel.  But if you really get on the chuck it would
be possible to break a gear!  If your worried about that you can
try just wacking the chuck with the broom handle and having only 
the enertia of the mandrel as resistance - same way as you would
take lug nuts off the front wheel of a car if it was already jacked up
and you had no helper to step on the break.

Clear?

Just looked in my manual (which also covers the ML-7).
To lock up the mandrel put in the back gear lock key to lock the
bull wheel to the cone pulley pinion AND lift up the lever on
the right side of the headstock to engage the back gear.

Bye
Kay R. Fisher


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28303 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:42:11 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960513153952.1677k-100000@reliant>
References: <4mvl69$qpe@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4n13eh$jm@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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All aluminum alloys will have approximately the same stiffness.  That
would be the Youngs modulus, which for all aluminum alloys is about
10,000,000.   The Youngs modulus for virtually all steels is about
three times that, or 30,000,000.  Tensile strength, and yield point
may vary between alloys but the stiffness, which is essentially the
slope of the stress/strain curve is, below yield, pretty linear and
is determined by the base metal which is the primary component in the
alloy.
John


On 11 May 1996, Edk4 wrote:

>  Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
> 
> >ultimate and yield strengths are greatly dependent
> >on temperature. 
> 
> Okay, but does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?
> 
> For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
> thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075, would 
> have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room temperature?
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 
> 
> 
> 


From mcarmel@oshadata.com Thu May 23 14:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28304 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!spasmolytic.openix.com!news
From: Matthew Carmel <mcarmel@oshadata.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source of silicon bronze for boatbuilding? Newsgroup FAQ?
Date: 13 May 1996 20:43:50 GMT
Organization: OSHA DATA http://www.oshadata.com
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A respondent to a thread on brass/bronze in the boatbuilding newsgroup 
suggested I post here. I am looking for a source of silcon bronze stock. I 
was told the FAQ for this group might list potential sources. Could 
someone be kind enough to email me the FAQ or tell me where to locate it?

Thank you in advance.

Matt Carmel



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Thu May 23 14:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28305 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!bofh.dot!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <187@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it> <186@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <flGV0BA8xmlxEwVe@abdab.demon.co.uk><4n6urk$gs6@serra.unipi.it>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 22:02:51 GMT
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Lines: 26

 
In article <4n6urk$gs6@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini (P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it) writes:

<good stuff deleted> 

Paolo,

I forgot to mention, when describing my method of inserting a piece
of wood and banging it, that the first thing you should do is try
pulling the end of the wood - the leverage may be enough to shift
it.

If you have to thump it, use no more than your fist - not very
hard.  No harder than thumping your hand on a desk to emphasise a
point!  The advantage is that you will stop before you break
anything on the lathe, because it hurts if you get too heavy handed.

DON'T USE ANY TOOLS TO HIT IT! EVER!

The other contributors' point about making sure that the mandrel
nose and chuck threads are as clean as possible is VERY true.  Also
helps to keep the work running true.

 



David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From kyoung@iptcorp.com Thu May 23 14:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28306 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!netcomsv!uu4news.netcom.com!iptcorp.com!kyoung
From: kyoung@iptcorp.com (Ken Young)
Subject: Re: new solder bonds any metal
Message-ID: <DrCzuu.4un@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <4mph0l$5a4@news1.ni.net>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 19:37:41 GMT
Lines: 15

gerald@gas.ni.net writes:
: Tinzink  new HI-TECH solder bonds any metal to any metal (execpt 
: titanium) 
: low temperature application 210 deg c
: lead free
: up to 5000 lbs. tensil strength
: acts as a dielectric between disimliar metals
: world's first
: one solder for all applications
: 
It seems that a purveyor of filled adhesive has an account . . . 

Ken Young
My opinions are my own and not my employers.



From lone@alumnae.caltech.edu Thu May 23 14:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28307 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hardinge Collets
Date: 13 May 1996 23:59:30 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Alumni Association
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4n8id2$87g@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alumnae.caltech.edu

Someone who picked up 2x72 hardinge 5C collets for about $500 is offering 
one set to me for about $250. The set comes with a stand/rack. Initially
I was excited, but now I see Rutland tool selling new 5C collets for about
the same price per collet in their largest set, which is either 36 or 72.
I wanted advice on what is the best choice and why? Old Hardinge collets
or new import quality ones? Both objective and subjective advice would be
helpful.

AA





From jrro@watson.ibm.com Thu May 23 14:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28308 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: 13 May 1996 22:37:43 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <4n8djn$rqf@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it> <4n7b4i$ahc@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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In <4n7b4i$ahc@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>First, if you are having a great deal of difficulty getting a
>chuck to unscrew, you may want to see if you can find the cause.
>THOROUGHLY clean the screw thread in the back of the chuck to
>be sure there are no chips, and be sure there are no chips on
>the spindle thread.
>
>Then, when screwing on the chuck, do so gently.  Don't wind it
>on so it bottoms out with a "thunk."

Perhaps the single *most* important advise given on this subject.
If the chuck is "snapped" onto the spindle, it will almost always
be a problem to undo.

>
>Typically, I find that I can unscrew my lathe chucks by putting
>the lathe in back gear without pulling the bull gear pin (to 
>lock the spindle), then putting the chuck key in a hole and
>pulling on it.  If it takes more than a moderate tug, it generally
>means there's a chip jammed in the screw thread that I neglected
>to clean out before putting on the chuck.
>
>In that case I've used a strap wrench, as you have.
>
>One can also clamp a longish bar crosswise in the chuck jaws and
>use is as a lever.

Or my occasional court of last resort:  my largest adjustable 
crescent wrench - placed on one of the jaws.  (gentle here!
don't want to spring the chuck!)

>
>A last-distch-effort approach, suggested by Guy Lautard in one 
>of his "Bedside Reader" books, is to start the lathe in slowest 
>back gear, then slip a block of wood between the lathe bed and 
>a chuck jaw as the jaw comes around.  
>

Hmm!  Sounds dangerous.

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Thu May 23 14:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28309 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!ginger!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 19:44:20 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <ginger.457.004EA3C1@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <4mvl69$qpe@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4n13eh$jm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4n7flb$lsf@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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In article <4n7flb$lsf@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
>Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
>Date: 13 May 1996 14:06:35 GMT

>It's been almost 30 years...but I think for "stiffness" you'd
>be primarily interested in the modulus of elasticity, not the
>yield point.  I don't think there is a noticable difference
>among various aluminum alloys in that respect, they all have
>a modulus of elasticity of somewhere around 10 x 10^6.  (Steel,
>on the other hand, is about 3 times that at 30 x 10^6, more
>or less.)  If stiffness is an important consideration, you'll
>do about 3 times better with steel than with aluminum.


A BIG caution on 7075-T6. although it has some nice numbers at ROOM 
TEMPERATURE its propertiees fall off at an amazing rate at only warm temp- for 
example its ultimate Tensile at room temp is 83,000psi, but at only 300 
degrees FARENHEIT it has fallen to 25,000.

under the same temps, 2024-T3 goes 70k to 55k and 6061-T6 goes 45k to 34k.

Henry Szostek wrote on this, with a detailed chart, in SIC Vol8, No45. 
June/July 95.





Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From lone@alumnae.caltech.edu Thu May 23 14:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28310 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!lone
From: lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hardinge Collets
Date: 13 May 1996 23:59:17 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Alumni Association
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4n8icl$875@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alumnae.caltech.edu

Someone who picked up 2x72 hardinge 5C collets for about $500 is offering 
one set to me for about $250. The set comes with a stand/rack. Initially
I was excited, but now I see Rutland tool selling new 5C collets for about
the same price per collet in their largest set, which is either 36 or 72.
I wanted advice on what is the best choice and why? Old Hardinge collets
or new import quality ones? Both objective and subjective advice would be
helpful.

AA





From lone@alumnae.caltech.edu Thu May 23 14:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28311 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!lone
From: lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hardinge Collets
Date: 13 May 1996 23:59:22 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Alumni Association
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4n8icq$877@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alumnae.caltech.edu

Someone who picked up 2x72 hardinge 5C collets for about $500 is offering 
one set to me for about $250. The set comes with a stand/rack. Initially
I was excited, but now I see Rutland tool selling new 5C collets for about
the same price per collet in their largest set, which is either 36 or 72.
I wanted advice on what is the best choice and why? Old Hardinge collets
or new import quality ones? Both objective and subjective advice would be
helpful.

AA





From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28312 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!dwave.net!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 13 May 1996 23:21:50 GMT
Organization: DataWave Technologies, Wausau Wisconsin
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <4n8g6e$7i@news.dwave.net>
References: <B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com><B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4n3th0$pfn@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <4n5ogg$kqp@news.dwave.net><B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com><B5LPBua.hayesp@delphi.com> <4mukto$6vl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4n3th0$pfn@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <4n5ogg$kqp@news.dwave.net> <31969e49.274613685@news.islandnet.com>
Reply-To: pdrumm@dwave.net
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In message <31969e49.274613685@news.islandnet.com> - psh@islandnet.com
(Jens)Sun, 12 May 1996 19:43:26 -0700 writes:
:->
:->pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm) wrote:
:->
:->>I was told by the local welding supplier that the acetone(which holds the
:->>acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when it's laid on it's
:->>side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being jostled around(like
:->>in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet cylinder has been
:->>laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time equal to the time it
:->>was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, it has to be set
:->>upright for 4 hours before using it. 
:->
:->This seems a perfect example of why you should always collect a range
:->of opinions and then decide yourself - rather than taking some
:->'expert's' advise.
:->I would think that you must have talked to the hired (minimum wage)
:->bottle shuffler - lot's of brawn and little brain .....
:->Regards
:->Jens
:->
:->PS.: sorry for the abruptness and language but I was knocked over by
:->the fact that somebody who should know better would come up with this
:->kind of 'advise'.

<also sent via e-mail>
Actually, the person that told me that is the owner/manager of the
business, he's been doing this work for 20+ years, so I tend to
believe him. I also have a very great respect for acetylene, ever
since a torch exploded in my hands(I've also seen a oxygen cylinder
turned into a rocket when the valve got broke off, lot's of
destruction).

You can do whatever you want with your cylinders, but I'm gonna treat
mine with TLC :)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W



From owen@davies.mv.com Thu May 23 14:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28313 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.lightlink.com!mv!usenet
From: owen@davies.mv.com
Subject: Re: Henrob 2000 torch
Message-ID: <DrDGqH.5wJ@mv.mv.com>
Organization: MV Communications, Inc.
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 01:42:17 GMT
References: <4n4r8e$cpq@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: davies.mv.com
Lines: 19

>   David E Harhay <deharhay@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>  Has anyone actually used a Henrob?  It is intriguing me due to its claims 
>  and from what I have seen it do at the NAMES for 2 years now, but I don't 
>  know of anyone who actually bought one.  Can anyone fill me in, please?
>  
I've put it a little time with one, mostly on thin-wall 4130 tubing.  For the purpose,
it's more or less equivalent to an ordinary torch, save that you use less gas.  Also,
0.035-wall tubing falls just between the size ranges of the smaller tips, so it helps
to buy an extra and bore it out with a #72 drill.

Other than that, there is a well-authenticated story that one year at Sun 'N Fun, 
an April gathering of airplane enthusiasts in Lakeland, FL, the Henrob dealer
welded up a cast-iron crank that someone had broken.  While it was still bright
red, he dropped it into a pail of water.  The weld held.

All in all, a neat little unit.  But you may not get your money's worth unless you
plan to do something out of the ordinary with it.

Hope that helps.


From ch.jung@t-online.de Thu May 23 14:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28314 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ch.jung@t-online.de (Dr. Christoph Jung)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roman coin cleaning Q
Date: 11 May 1996 15:44:54 GMT
Organization: Elma Hans Schmidbauer GmbH & Co KG
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4n2clm$keo@news00.btx.dtag.de>
References: <9DMAZAA$7odxEwzg@bosagate.demon.co.uk>	<4l8idi$6d4@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca> <nVpUJBAnppexEw4V@bosagate.demon.co.uk>	<4le9ov$3a9@tribune.concentric.net>	<3BtCVIA2zIfxEwjl@bosagate.demon.co.uk> <OHK.96Apr25105402@krakatitt.nta.no>
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To: ohk@krakatitt.nta.no



-- 
1¾
Re: Roman coin cleaning Q

Dear Marc Line,

I would recommend to you to clean the roman coin from limestone using a 
weakly acidic solution also, but the acid should be specified:

citric acid (its a solid comound to be soluted in tap water), evtl. mixed 
with acetic acid.

The pH-value, which measures the degree of acidity should be not below pH 
= 3 ( a value of 7 corresponds to a neutral, a value of 0 to a very 
strong acidic solution).
Otherwise you may destroy the surface of your coin.

There are some acidic cleaners of this type commercially available in 
supermarkets.
These cleaners you should dilute with tap water 1:50, the diluted 
solution then use in a simple ultrasonic cleaner.

Best regards
                    Christoph Jung



From anthem@hcsinc.com Thu May 23 14:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28315 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anthem@hcsinc.com (Anthem Industries)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Taig Lathe w/ accessories
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 02:40:54 GMT
Organization: Anthem Industies
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4n8vdr$i9g@homer.alpha.net>
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I have the following for sale:

Taig mini lathe.  It comes with the following:

1/8 HP 120v motor wired with switch and capacitor.
3 Jaw chuck attached
Milling Attachment
Several Cutting Tools for the lathe
Factory toolpost and tailstock.


All mounted on a sturdy board and ready to go.  

It is slightly used but in goodcondition.  

I'm selling it because I am looking to upgrade to
some bigger stuff.

Price:  $250 shipped UPS to you (you in the lower 48, that is)

Please reply via Email.  
Thanks.


From jrl@versaform.com Thu May 23 14:18:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28316 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: surface grinding on a whatever
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 03:38:02 GMT
Organization: Applied Software Technology
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Here's one that belongs in the "nothing new under the sun"
category. After following the "surface grinding on a
mill/shaper" threads, I was glancing through an old Popular
Mechanics (May, 1930, to be specific), and happened on an
article entitled "Surface Grinding on a Drill Press", by W.
Clyde Lammey.  Essentially he built a small platform of wood
that captured the work, and used what appeared to be a
sanding disk to do the grinding.   

The same issue had an article on a solar hot water heater
that could have been from the 1970s (minus the pieties about
the environment), a piece on using a portable router mounted
on a lathe to do spiral turning in wood, and one on
modifying a shaper to do milling.  "A good one (milling machine)
can be constructed very easily if you have built the shaper
described in the November, 1928 issue of Popular Mechanics".
Anybody got that issue?

There were men in those days.

--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From blake@ncweb.com Thu May 23 14:18:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28317 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor
Date: 14 May 1996 04:27:33 GMT
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <blake-1405960018370001@206.84.2.55>
References: <3186CD45.7644@mis.nb.ca> <DqqHrv.7B9@ccc.amdahl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-6.ncweb.com

In article <DqqHrv.7B9@ccc.amdahl.com>, ece00@mfg.amdahl.com wrote:

$ > Has anyone ever made a compressor which they are happy with?
$ 
$ > If so, how did you do it?
$ 
$ > I am interested in making one, I think...  Thanks for any help! 
$ 
$ >    Jeff Trites
$ 
$ 
$ While visiting a friend on his ranch and looking through the "boneyards" for 
$ antique car parts, I noticed couple of these types of compressors.  It was a 
$ Model A engine in which 2 of the cylinders were used to produce the compressed
$ air while it ran off the other 2 cylinders.  Simply plumb the lines using the 
$ spark plug holes.  What an idea! Of course, people back then had alot of
creative 
$ ideas.
$ 
$ Earl

This was most likely factory made.  I have seen many of them, most built
by Schramm, and many using Ford flat head V-8s.  They have special heads
and don't just use the engine heads.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From larry_matthess@qmail4.sp.trw.com Thu May 23 14:18:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28318 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Larry Matthess <larry_matthess@qmail4.sp.trw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: new solder bonds any metal
Date: 13 May 1996 15:31:03 GMT
Organization: TRW Engineering
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4n7kjn$2vt@alpha.nafb.trw.com>
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Subject: new solder bonds any metal
From: gerald

>up to 5000 lbs. tensil strength
>I will be happy to provide more information

Okay, please do.

`up to 5000 lbs tensile strength` for what size joint area?  What is
joint tensile strength per unit area?

  Larry



From brantley@telepath.com Thu May 23 14:18:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28319 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brantley@telepath.com (Damon Brantley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 07:10:00 GMT
Organization: Telepath
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        Thanks for all the responses so far. My news server is extremely slow  
at getting responses back so I have to look at Dejanews and AltaVista for 
responses. Thus I am answering questions in a nonthreaded manner that some 
have asked and some of my results so far.
        First, the type of hot melt gun I am using has is a trigger type 
instead of the thumb push type.However, since the plastic is harder than the 
glue, you can't get much of a grip with the trigger.However, I may be able to 
apply some type of liquid rubber material like Plasti Dip to the part the 
grips the plastic stick to get some traction.
       In the case of PVC, the glue gun does not get hot enough to melt the 
plastic. Also, need good ventilation as the PVC seems to emit some 
odor. Someone can probably tell me or warn me what it is.  I also noticed this 
when cutting PVC with the lathe. I am going to try and get some nylon to 
experiment with.
        To remedy the temperature problem I am going to cannibilize a 
soldering iron (25W Radio Shack hobbyist iron) and using it as the heating 
element. A quick and dirty test, just holding the iron against the glue 
(plastic) chamber yielded some melting, but I do not think I was making very 
good contact.  I will also have to machine an adapter so that the element will 
fit. (This is starting to turn into a project all its own now! : ) I hope I do 
not get the iron too hot or I may melt the handle!. Will also have to be 
careful not to get the plastic sticks too hot also. Will see what happens.
        One response I received, said that when in a melted state, plastic is 
still too viscous to force through the nozzle of a hot melt gun. I guess I 
will see for myself. Worst comes to worst, I can alway use my arbor press. 
(Oh boy, another adapter to make!)
        Another question was about how am I making the molds. I have never 
done this before. The simplest part is about 1 inch long with a diameter of .1 
inches for 1/2 inch and .25 for 1/2 inch. I hope to be able to just drill 
holes in some metal rod and fill the void with plastic.(More like casting 
here)  After the plastic is cooled, I will have a pin in the end to eject it. 
(Using either a hammer or arbor press) Whether I will get a plastic part back 
or a hole filled with plastic, I do not know. Depends on how well the plastic 
sticks to the metal. Hopefully, the shrinkage of the plastic as it cools will 
keep the part from sticking inside the mold. 
        If that does not work I will drill the holes and mill two halves for a 
split mold.
        The other part part is tubular. Depending how the above goes, witll 
determine how I do the tubular part. I will omit the details for now.
        I will also check into getting the book from village press that has 
the injection molding articles from HSM. Also broke down and finally ordered a 
subscription to HSM and PIM.
        Hopefully, this weekend I will get a chance to try all this. I will 
keep you all posted if there is interest.
        
       

        


From grant@cdac.com Thu May 23 14:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28320 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: grant@cdac.com (Grant Erwin)
Subject: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Message-ID: <1996May14.052956.27664@ole.cdac.com>
Sender: news@ole.cdac.com (Usenet News)
Organization: Cascade Design Automation, Bellevue, WA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 05:29:56 GMT
Lines: 33

I got a flyer from NSC today (that is not a typo and not MSC)
which has what looks like a really first-rate little boring
head, Swiss made, with 2MT shank that would plug right into
my tailstock, and fifty percent off. Off of what, you may
ask. Right. The list on this thing is almost a thousand dollars.

Now I don't mind spending a little more to get quality. But
I always thought a decent boring head ought to run a little
cheaper than that. I see the cheapos going all the time for
around $95. But on investigating, it seems that there is a
significant jump that happens, in price anyway, just above
that.

I have never done a lot of boring, and what I have done I've
just done with my old 10-way SB toolpost and a boring bar.
But I have this project, and now there's this deal, so maybe
it's time. 

Anyone who has been to this point and beyond and wants to
add anything, feel free. I simply don't have the skill to
make a good one, and I don't really know if a cheap one will
work. I have learned that really inexpensive tools sometimes
make things enough harder to do that for all intents and 
purposes they become impractical. And I don't know if a
boring head would be stable enough mounted in a tailstock 
taper.

Regards,

Grant Erwin                     | Senior Member, Technical Staff
Cascade Design Automation Corp. | Internet:  grant@cdac.com
3650 131st Ave SE, Suite 650    | TEL:       (206)-649-7613
Bellevue, WA  98006             | FAX:       (206)-649-7600


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28321 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bridgeport sine angle plate for sale
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:53:44 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
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I have a bridgeport brand sine angle plate for sale. perfect condition
the base is 61/2 x 7. it's hand scraped with t-slots on both angles.
there is a small sine bar made on the angle to get compound angles.
these are about 1200.00 new this one is for sale at 400.00
Danny
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: T-slot slide an tool turret for s.b.
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:00:33 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
Lines: 5
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I have a t-slot slide for a 9-10 inch South Bend lathe.  Mounted on it
is a South Bend 4 postion turret tool tost. It needs a gib and a
leadscrew nut, hence i'll let go for 100.00 including shipping
danny
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: 14 May 1996 12:20:38 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4n9tqm$7ug@news1.svc>
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HSM had an article on building a table-top injection molding machine.
They recommended strips of milk carton.  Didn't look too practical
but guess it can be done.

I don't have the issue(s) in which the project was published, just
one of the composite books that Joe Rice publishes from time-to-time.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From scoles@homebase.com.au Thu May 23 14:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: scoles@homebase.com.au (Simon Coles)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WWW metalwork resources
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 06:30:35 GMT
Organization: Homebase
Lines: 7
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I am interested in compiling a list of jewellery and metalwork related
WWW sites.  If anybody knows of some that you think I may be
interested in, please reply to this posting.  Thanks
Simon Coles	
P.S. My email isn't up and running yet, but should be in a few days.
My address is:	scoles@homebase.com.au



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 14 May 1996 12:17:24 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 22
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8I had just made the comment that 7075 suffers significant strength
reduction at eleveated temperatures.

Without taking the time to look up the tables in the metals book, I'd
say "no", to your question.

'Stiffness' is not directly related to, say, yield strength.  (I assume
you are referring to the amount of deflection of a beam held at one end
and from which a load is suspended on the other.)

In general (whoo boy, a generalization from a non-expert) I've found
that within the same metal type (aluminum or steel) the 'stiffness'
is for all practical purposes, the same.  That means that a boring
bar of mild steel will be about as stiff as one of tool steel.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus





From TABco@tabco.alpha.pulsar.net Thu May 23 14:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: TABco@tabco.alpha.pulsar.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Kevin Oliver
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 10:20:20 PDT
Organization: BridgenetLC - 305.374.3031 - 100 S. Biscayne Blvd, Miami 
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Kevin,
  Drop me a line, I lost your internet address.

Thomas
tabco@alpha.pulsar.net



From rharbach@csn.net Thu May 23 14:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rharbach@csn.net (Roy A. Harbach)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: METAL INDUSTRIES BEST OF THE BEST
Date: 13 May 1996 18:52:27 -0600
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4n8lgb$qhu@teal.csn.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22


Dear Metal Industry Professional,

My name is Keith Davis and I represent the METAL Machining and
Fabrication Web site, the ONLY Web site focused solely on the
metals industry.

Please take a moment and visit this outstanding internet resource.
You will find many world class businesses along with a wealth of
information.

The METAL M&F URL is:  http://www.mmf.com/metal/

When your business is ready to go online or if your business is
already online and you are not getting the "hits" you expected please
contact me.  I can make your internet business adventure painless
and profitable!

Sincerely,

Keith Davis
keith@denver.net
http://www.denver.net/~intellinet/

-- 
Keith Davis/Intellinet


From jimg@galt.com Thu May 23 14:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Gourgoutis <jimg@galt.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: disposable cylinders?
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 10:25:02 -0400
Organization: GALT Technologies, Inc.
Lines: 6
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what's the best way to dispose of the disposable mini-cylinders for 
small propane torches?
-- 
James Gourgoutis
GALT Technologies, Inc.
<jimg@galt.com>


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 1/7th rule and other
Date: 14 May 1996 13:33:47 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-col3-19.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Tue May 14  8:33:47 AM CDT 1996

"Modern Welding, complete coverage of the welding field in one easy to 
use volume" has many specifics concerning acetylene cylinders.  They 
state" The maximum safe rate for drawing acetlyene from a cylinder is 
1/7th of the cylinder's capacity per hour.  Thus, a single 250 cubic 
foot (7.08 cu meter) cylinder can supply acetylene at about 36 cubic 
feet (1.0 cu meters) per hour."

to further quote:"An oxyacetylene flame consuming some acetone will 
burn with a purple color.  Acetone in the flame is not desirable.  It 
lowers the flame temperature and increases gas consumption.  Moreover, 
the quality of the weld is affected."

"Acetelene cylinders should always be used in an upright position, 
otherwise, some of the acetone is likely to escape with the acetylene 
and contaminate the equipment and the flame.  Each time that an 
acetylene cylinder is refilled, the tare weight (weight without the 
acetylene gas) is checked and acetone is added if necessary."

I would highly recommend a complete novice or anyone not familiar with 
any type of welding process seek further education from text books and 
a class on welding safty and proceedures.  Many vocational schools 
offer evening welding classes to adults.  Its worth checking into.

Please contact your welding supplier for safty booklets.  They are 
usually available free of charge and provide many helpful hints.

Hope this helps.

Alan


From r.lee@windshadow.com Thu May 23 14:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Advise on Motor Hp and Speed for Antique Lathe.
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 22:39:41 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 18
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References: <4n6i1c$1un@shore.shore.net>

In article <4n6i1c$1un@shore.shore.net>, erikl@shore.net (Cryptical) wrote:


> Here are my questions:

> 
> 4. Is anybody out there a real lover of the flatbelt machines and
systems? I am 
> becoming very turned on by the antique machines and there function. I
would love 
> to get any leads to indivuals (Especialy in New England USA) who know
of, own, or 
> maintain such tools. I would like very much to visit such a shop.
> 

Try this Web site

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Precision_Museum/


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Thu May 23 14:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Injection Molding PVC
Date: 14 May 1996 13:36:25 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Don't know what the temperature is [should look in that new/old
copy of "materials Handbook"...] but PVC is Poly Vinyl Chloride
and when it's burned, it emits chlorine and maybe even 
Phosgene, nasty stuff.

The Chlorine, if combined with water, makes HydroChloric acid,
also not nice.

Telephone companies discover these things when they wire an exchange
with PVC insulated wire [used to be almost exclusively], have a fire
that the sprinklers try to attack, discover that the HCl released 
eats all the copper in the building.  Used to be real bad, what with
those old rotary switches...

Which explains why they went to Freon extinguishers....

/mark



From jmayhew@pop3.cris.com Thu May 23 14:18:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeff Mayhew <jmayhew@pop3.cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: help: household dies?
Date: 14 May 1996 15:08:53 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 17
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References: <4na3b2$bd3@ftp.iis.com.br>
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ehaddadf@iis.com.br wrote:
>In Briney's "Home Machinist;s handbook" he mentions a way to imitate aluminium anodozing.
>He say's  one must use a lye solution and then "a solution of household dye".
>
>Can anyone tell me what dies are these?
>Where I can purchase small quantities?

I suspect he is referring to "Rit" dyes, mainly used for dying clothes
and other household articles.  This is typically available at almost
any grocery store or department store (in the U.S., that is).  Back in
the 60s and 70s the fad of "tie-dying" T-shirts made these dyes pretty
popular.

Jeff Mayhew
jmayhew@cris.com




From au544@yfn.ysu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!au544
From: au544@yfn.ysu.edu (Roll Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTF: low temp brass substitute alloy
Date: 14 May 1996 19:53:24 GMT
Organization: Youngstown State/Youngstown Free-Net
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NNTP-Posting-Host: yfn2.ysu.edu


I have read the FAQ. I have called the standard sources.......No 
luck.

I'm looking for a low temperature (melting point under 1000 F - 
closer to 500 if possible) alloy that will give me a brass or 
near brass color. Isn't there some brass or bronze like alloy 
that will do this? Micro Mark even says that they used to have 
such a thing but don't handle it anymore.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers
Roll
au544@yfn.ysu.edu

-- 
   


From cwall@swri.edu Thu May 23 14:18:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home built Jet Turbines
Date: 14 May 1996 20:01:08 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
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Distribution: world
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In article <lGbYMIAeM7kxEwox@wrighta.demon.co.uk>, john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk says...

>I hope that this interests some out there.



   It definitely interests me!!!!!


   Craig Wall



From cwall@swri.edu Thu May 23 14:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: disposable cylinders?
Date: 14 May 1996 20:03:49 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
Lines: 12
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References: <319897BE.2F42@galt.com>
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In article <319897BE.2F42@galt.com>, jimg@galt.com says...
>
>what's the best way to dispose of the disposable mini-cylinders for 
>small propane torches?



   Turn them into mufflers.


   Craig Wall



From ig280@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Thu May 23 14:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ig280@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (C Morley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Curta calculator ...again
Date: 14 May 1996 15:23:33 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Lines: 17
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Reply-To: ig280@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (C Morley)
NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu


Hi all.....I just unearthed a Curta calculator I had for a few years.
It is a Type 1 , the smaller one serial #69718 with a plastic carrying case and
the original cardboard box !
the books with it are Computing Examples for the Curta calculating Machine, its
51 pages  and also a fold out sheet called your Curta calculator, which is 20
-pages- telling how to use it.
A couple of questions....are there any other books that came with the Curta ?
I am not in love with this anymore and would like to sell/ trade it for some
sheet metal fabrication equipment.
What is something like this worth ? I have seen the auction price
posted, was that the bid price and then the buyers premium added, or was it the
total price ?

Thanks for your help, I hate to get rid of it , but my interests have changed
into custom car fabrication
Chris 


From jtstull@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jtstull@aol.com (J T Stull)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tool Grinders
Date: 14 May 1996 11:19:00 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Has anyone built Lautards "Tinker" tool grinder?
How about any other too grinder.  The Quorn looks like a life long
project!  
What about the ones that have been published in the Brit. mag. "Model
Engineers Home Workshop?  Some of these look prety good.  I built some
time 
ago the one Rudy Kauhaupt published in HSM a few yeas ago using a small
piece of aluminum I cast for the head. It works well for tool bits and I
scribed some lines on it and now us it fo drill bits.
But I would like something with more capabilities.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Thu May 23 14:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get copywrite stamp?
Message-ID: <1996May14.090240.23212@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 14 May 96 09:02:40 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81>
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In article <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81>, blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki) writes:
|>Where can I get a metal stamp that had the copywrite logo (C in a circle)
|>to stamp my artwork?

Just to pick nits -- it's "copyright" not "copywrite".  The latter is
what advertisers and news writers do (write copy).

If you can't find one, perhaps you could stamp a "C" from a small stamp
set, and overstrike it with an "O" or "0" from a large set.

Jim


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Thu May 23 14:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lathe advice sought (again)
Date: 14 May 1996 14:06:20 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

I have to stop doing this.  I spent most of yesterday talking to a local
dealer about a used 15x40 Enterprise lathe.  Does anyone have any
experience with this brand?  This particular model is the Enterprise 1550.

This one is a 1980 removable gap lathe, 3 or 5hp 45-2000 rpm inch/metric
geared head model with D1-4 spindle and foot brake.  I believe it uses
SKF spindle bearings and Siemens electrics.

It was part of a high school shop and appears to be _very_ lightly used.  
Wear on the cross slides, screws, rack, etc is unnoticeable.  It's 
fairly hefty and weighs in at around 2600 pounds.

My understanding is that this is an Indian machine and is currently
imported by someone down in Texas.   I'm probably going to take a look at
it under power on Friday.  I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts
on what a reasonable price would be.





--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 14 May 1996 22:30:02 GMT
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Yes Very! Bob



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 14 May 1996 22:45:34 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:
>>> Does anyone know the taper used by Logan, it's not Morse, nor Jarno,
>maybe 4 degress? <<
>        ^^^^^^^
>
>Bob,
>
>You should learn to ask the source...
>
>The Logan 11, 12, & 14" Lathes used a proprietary taper of 3 degrees, 35
>minutes from center until serial number 52576 (approx. late 1949). 
>After that, it was 2 degrees from center.
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Thanks Scott, my lathe was built in '59, but 2 degrees doesn't work out. Unless, UNLESS the 
4degrees showing on the taper attachment means encluded angle. I'm using a test indicator on 
the cross slide and run it in the spindle using the taper att. adjusting it till I get no 
movement on the gauge [+ or - .0005"] in 2+" of travel. Then with this adjustment I place a 
mandrel between centers and read with a dial indicator the travel in 4" which should equal 
sine of angleX4 and I get an angle slightly less than 4degrees but not as small as 3degrees 
35min. Maybe my spindle has been modified?  Bob



From 71165.3406
Article: 28342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Robert A. Wise" <"71165.3406 "@ compuserve.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ultrasonic drill
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 17:42:21 -0700
Organization: The Blue Cat
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I recently bought an ultrasonic drill (lapidary), made by Imahashi mfg.
It was marketed as GemSonic Mini-Drill.  I found it in a catalog from the 
now defunct Geode Industries.  It sold for $706.00 in 1977 (with optional 
slurry pump).  I would truly love to find a copy of the manual for this 
tool. Barring this,  I would also like to talk to someone who would have 
perhaps used one, knows about available parts, tuning, etc.
Thanks,

Robert Wise


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Thu May 23 14:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 14 May 1996 22:36:07 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 32
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In <4naefq$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>
>Several of you will recognize me as having posted before about
>the 1943 9x48 SB lathe I bought a month ago. Several of you
>have been very helpful, sending drawings and parts and references.
>
>We still have many questions about it - in particular, the headstock 
>design is one that we can't find any photos of. 
>
>I've scanned in a bunch of photos of the lathe in its current 
>condition, and posted them at http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html;
>if you're curious to see it, or think you might have some answers,
>please take a look and send some mail.
>
>Thanks.

Sorry - Just saw the rest of the pics, and it is pretty clear to me
that this lathe must have been used as a second operation setup
at some time.  The hand-lever tailstock (seems to be custom)
and the hand lever collett closer imply this, as well as the lack
of crossfeed screw - unless you had the screw out for refurbishment.
Did it have a lever-acting crossfeed?  I have never seen a 9 inch
SB that was underneath motor drive - unusual!  


===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: 14 May 1996 23:08:09 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4nb3op$iiq@kaleka.seanet.com>
References: <4n9tfd$5tv@news.primeline.com>
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You don't say where you live, I buy these locally in Seattle at a steam supply house, you 
might check your yellow pages.

 Bob

Tom Alexander <tomstand@primeline.com> wrote:
> I realize this may not be the place to ask, but wonder if anyone knows where to 
>find the kind of brushes used to clean the long tubes in a full-sized steam boiler?
>I've got a running engine with 10-foot, 2"-diam. tubes that hasn't been cleaned in 
>years and haven't figured out how to do it.
>




From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 14 May 1996 23:11:24 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 21
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jlovallo@mixcom.com wrote:
>>   grant@cdac.com (Grant Erwin) writes:
>>  I got a flyer from NSC today (that is not a typo and not MSC)
>>  which has what looks like a really first-rate little boring
>>  head, Swiss made, with 2MT shank that would plug right into
>>  my tailstock, and fifty percent off. Off of what, you may
>>  ask. Right. The list on this thing is almost a thousand dollars.
>>  
>What you are probably looking at is an automatic boring head.  These
>will advance the tool automagically to to also do facing.  If you don't need
>that feature, buy one of the $100 variety.  The autofacing heads are
>really neat.  Interestingly, Metal Lathe Accessories sells a kit to build
>a really good one pretty cheap.  They advertise in HSM and also are
>listed in the FAQ.
>
>
>John Lovallo
>
MSC also has a 2" boring head for $33 this month, I bought one, not Swiss made but worth it. 
Cheers Bob



From dmauch@seanet.com Thu May 23 14:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CNC DREMEL DRILL PRESS
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 17:20:16 -0700
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; U)

I have been working on a new low cost CNC conversion of a Dremel Drill 
Press to CNC. Essentially, it is a 10X10 ball slides spot welded in an 
X-Y configuration. This is bolted to a tool stand and nema 17 stepper 
motors are connected to the X-Y axis via low cost roll cut leadscrews. 
The Dremel drill press  stand is bolted to a 10X10 aluminum plate that 
is screwed to the X-Y cross slides. The Quill is raised and lowered by a 
stepper motor mounted on a support bracket. The stepper motor drives the 
quill with a timing belt and timing  pulley arrangement. Using the three 
axis controller and a low cost software package I demonstrated at the 
Seattle Robotic Society  meeting  the machine drill 104 holes in under 4 
minutes. Yes this is not for heavy duty use but is great for drilling 
printed circuyit boards and other fine drilling applications. The Power 
head may be removed and a plotting pen inserted. The unit can be seen in 
my web page at
http://www.seanet.com/~dmauch.
Let me know what you think.
Dan


From jay@ftp.com Thu May 23 14:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fehlman Mill Drill (Swiss made)
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:06:58
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
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In reading one of my used machinery catalogs (an expensive thing to do when
you spot something you can't live without! :->  ),  I noted Scott Machinery
of Rancho Cordova (Sacramento area), California offered a Fehlman mill-drill
with a rotary table for $2500.  I've not heard of this make.  
I spoke with Wayne, one of the salesfolk there, who says it got sold
just a week ago.  He didn't recall many details aside from it being a bench
mill on its own stand and "very solid".

Do any of our European readers have one of these?  
Is Fehlman still in business?  Where were they located in Switzerland?
What is the table size, collet type, spindle range?


(I'm just curious, not looking to buy this item.)

TIA

Jay

Scott Machinery   tele  916-638-7718    fax 916-638-2450



From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu May 23 14:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Miter Gauge for Bandsaw
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:25:34 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:134994 rec.crafts.metalworking:28348

I am looking to buy a miter gauge for my Delta 14" bandsaw.

The table slot is 3/4 x 3/8 deep. I want a miter gauge with stops for at least 
the 90 degree (square cut) , and 45 degree angles. 

The Delta part new costs about $60. Jet sells one for $45; will it fit? Does 
anyone have one? A good used one at a reasonable price would be nice.

I am located in Annapolis, Maryland. But will entertain anywhere in the USA 
since it is small enough to ship UPS.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From jay@ftp.com Thu May 23 14:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Advise on Motor Hp and Speed for Antique Lathe.
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:07:01
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In article <4n6i1c$1un@shore.shore.net> erikl@shore.net (Cryptical) writes:
<snip>
>4. Is anybody out there a real lover of the flatbelt machines and systems?
> I am 
>becoming very turned on by the antique machines and there function. I would
> love 
>to get any leads to indivuals (Especialy in New England USA) who know of,
> own, or 
>maintain such tools. I would like very much to visit such a shop.

Erick,  
	I presume you are in New England...visit the New England Society
of Model Engineers which meets at the Charles River Museum of Industry,
154 Moody St, Waltham, MA 02154 the first Thursday of each Month; 7-9:30 PM.
Many flat belt machines are on display and in use in the museum workshop. 

NEMES members have flat belt equipment (myself included).  Visit the 
Precision Museum in Windsor, VT.  Visit the Starrett Museum in Athol, MA.  
The Greenfield Museum in Gfld, MA is still in formation, but will have 
several flat belt machines tools in a production environment. (I say this  
since I am the one doing it   :-)   and want to have the equipment under
power and actually being used to make "stuff"...actually small items which
we hope can be purchased by visitors.)  Any day real soon  :-)  maybe '97.

Brothers Machine in North Andover has an antique flat belt lathe on display.

Flat belt machines are fading into history...even the local scrapyards
don't seem to have any left (having already scrapped most of them).
Folks who have them don't use them for modern high-power applications.  They 
can do a good job of work within their capacity, using carbon and HSS 
tooling, but that translates in *slow* in the commercial shop.  For the
hobbyist, its great.  Actually, the built in slippage of a flat belt acts
as a clutch or shear pin for those times when you have a crack-up, resulting
in minor damage to machine/tool/workpiece.  With a 10 hp gearhead machine 
the same accident results in expensive damage!  Also, flat belts have a 
satisfying (IMHO) sound, a gentle flap-flap, whirr-whirr..but just don't 
get yourself caught in the moving belt.  The belt shifters are fun to look
at, and at a glance you can figure out the speed ratios.



Cheers
Jay




From hollen@vigra.com Thu May 23 14:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 16:12:04 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <nc4tpjnsiz.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
References: <4n9tfd$5tv@news.primeline.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: calvin.vigra.com
In-Reply-To: Tom Alexander's message of 14 May 1996 12:14:37 GMT
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1

>>>>> "Tom" == Tom Alexander <tomstand@primeline.com> writes:

Tom> I realize this may not be the place to ask, but wonder if anyone
Tom> knows where to find the kind of brushes used to clean the long
Tom> tubes in a full-sized steam boiler?  I've got a running engine
Tom> with 10-foot, 2"-diam. tubes that hasn't been cleaned in years
Tom> and haven't figured out how to do it.

You might get the following to work for you.  Homebrewer's have long
hoses that need to be brushed out.  One way to do that is to insert a
long wire from the opposite end and when it is completely through,
then attach an appropriate brush on it and pull it back through.  If
your tubes are open at both ends, then it should work.

dion
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From tuckwood@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tooth repair?
Date: 13 May 1996 23:10:13 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have been following the thread about removing a lathe chuck.
The possibility of breaking a gear tooth is very real.  I have!

Now, what is the best way to repair said broken tooth
without complete disassembly and replacement?
Is there an epoxy or something that can be used by making 
a mold of several good teeth and transferring the shape to the 
empty space?  

I would appreciate any suggestions or warnings you folks can 
offer.

Many thanks,

Jay Tuckwood

================================================================
Why does "EXPERIENCE" take so long and hurt so much?
Why does "EXERCISE"     take so long and hurt so much?
Why does "THE CURE"     take so long and hurt so much?
Why does "PROFIT"          take so long and hurt so much?
================================================================


From psh@islandnet.com Thu May 23 14:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trailer Advice/Plans
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 16:10:01 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 26
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EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey) wrote:


>I am considering building a utility trailer (recently learned to weld!) 
Unless you are a certified welder, I would not attempt to build
anything that is used on public roads. A negligence action against you
in case of an accident is almost a certainty. It is just not worth it.
Also, I don't know what hoops you would need to jump through in order
to get the trailer licensed but I would think (and hope) that a
certification from a welder would be a minimum. 
Oxy/Acet is not an appropriate choice for this kind of project - yes,
it's possible if you are really good and have the right equipment but
I myself would not tackle anything that size with the oxy/acet set.

>Is welding (ox/acy) Al too difficult for a beginner?  

Oh boy .... welding an aluminum trailer with Oxy/Acet ..... oh boy
... let me know before you go on the road with it so that I can make
sure I am nowhere around you.

Scary stuff ......

Regards
Jens

PS.: sorry for the wet blanket ...


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Thu May 23 14:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 14 May 1996 21:17:04 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 33
Distribution: usa
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

I bought a Taiwanese 2" boring head at J&L in San Jose for $49. The shank
was about another $10 as I recall. The thing is flawless as far as I can
tell. My boring bars pull out with a resounding "pop!", the fit is that
good. I don't know why you'd want to pay an order of magnitude more, nor
why you'd want to stick one in the tailstock. The whole idea of a boring
head is the turn the head and keep the work stationary. Otherwise, why not
use a boring bar in a toolpost and take advantage of the lathe carriage's
much better feeding mechanisms?

In article <1996May14.052956.27664@ole.cdac.com>, grant@cdac.com (Grant
Erwin) wrote:

> I got a flyer from NSC today (that is not a typo and not MSC)
> which has what looks like a really first-rate little boring
> head, Swiss made, with 2MT shank that would plug right into
> my tailstock, and fifty percent off. Off of what, you may
> ask. Right. The list on this thing is almost a thousand dollars.
> 
> Now I don't mind spending a little more to get quality. But
> I always thought a decent boring head ought to run a little
> cheaper than that. I see the cheapos going all the time for
> around $95. But on investigating, it seems that there is a
> significant jump that happens, in price anyway, just above
> that.
> 
.........
> ...purposes they become impractical. And I don't know if a
> boring head would be stable enough mounted in a tailstock 
> taper.

-- 
Rich Klopp                      Do your parents know you're in here?
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:46:29 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960514124344.2194X-100000@reliant>
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On 14 May 1996, Blake Malkamaki wrote:

> In article <DqqHrv.7B9@ccc.amdahl.com>, ece00@mfg.amdahl.com wrote:
> 
> $ > Has anyone ever made a compressor which they are happy with?
> $ 
> $ > If so, how did you do it?
> $ 
> $ > I am interested in making one, I think...  Thanks for any help! 
> $ 
> $ >    Jeff Trites
> $ 
> $ 
> $ While visiting a friend on his ranch and looking through the "boneyards" for 
> $ antique car parts, I noticed couple of these types of compressors.  It was a 
> $ Model A engine in which 2 of the cylinders were used to produce the compressed
> $ air while it ran off the other 2 cylinders.  Simply plumb the lines using the 
> $ spark plug holes.  What an idea! Of course, people back then had alot of
> creative 
> $ ideas.
> $ 
> $ Earl
> 
> This was most likely factory made.  I have seen many of them, most built
> by Schramm, and many using Ford flat head V-8s.  They have special heads
> and don't just use the engine heads.
> 
> Blake

Right.  There were a number of larger aircompressors on the market about
thirty or forty years ago made from Ford flatheads.  You pull the valves
>from  one bank and put on a special head that has inlet check valves and
outlet check valves to a delivery manifold.  You run it on the four 
cylinders on the other side.  You have to be sure you modify the intake
manifold to only put fuel mixture to the four cylinders that are running
as an engine.  Compressed fuel/air mixture could be quite explosive in 
your air tool!  
They delivered a LOT of air at about 90 psi.  Excellent for jackhammers 
and similiar tools.
JOhn



From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tooth repair?
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:50:18 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On 13 May 1996, TUCKWOOD wrote:

> I have been following the thread about removing a lathe chuck.
> The possibility of breaking a gear tooth is very real.  I have!
> 
> Now, what is the best way to repair said broken tooth
> without complete disassembly and replacement?
> Is there an epoxy or something that can be used by making 
> a mold of several good teeth and transferring the shape to the 
> empty space?  
> 
> I would appreciate any suggestions or warnings you folks can 
> offer.
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Jay Tuckwood
> 

The only way I have ever been able to replace broken gear teeth with
ANY kind of longevity was with a "partial plate."  I took a piece of
cold roll bar stock and cut a pie segment with gear teeth that matched
the teeth I had to replace.  Make sure the arc of the gear is correct
also.  Then mill a matching pie segment out of the gear and braze the
replacement into place.  It is probably cheaper to just send off to
Boston Gear unless your time is REALLY cheap.
JOhn



From slvrsmth@ids.net Thu May 23 14:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director" <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silver Workshops
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 07:28:12 -0700
Organization: Society of American Silversmiths
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Almost 60 silversmithing & related workshops around the United States can 
be found on the SAS site.
-- 
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 14 May 1996 23:24:59 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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	Sorry - Just saw the rest of the pics, and it is pretty clear to me
	that this lathe must have been used as a second operation setup
	at some time.  The hand-lever tailstock (seems to be custom)
	and the hand lever collett closer imply this, as well as the lack
	of crossfeed screw - unless you had the screw out for refurbishment.
	Did it have a lever-acting crossfeed?  I have never seen a 9 inch
	SB that was underneath motor drive - unusual!  

My apologies - I had the lathe fairly apart before it occurred to
me to take Polaroid photos to scan in - if you look closely, you'll
see that the spindle is out in a couple of shots. There certainly is
a normal (small diameter scale knob) cross feed and compound feed.

The hand-lever tailstock used to be a standard South Bend part;
I have drawings dating from 1965 that show it very clearly. But the
lever closer might be custom - the same drawings only show a handwheel closer.
Hard to say - the current SB accessories catalog will sell both
a handwheel and lever closer.


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Thu May 23 14:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Message-ID: <23796@storm.LakeheadU.Ca>
Date: 14 May 1996 20:21:20 GMT
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>I was told by the local welding supplier that the 
acetone(which holds the
>acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when 
it's laid on it's
>side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being 
jostled around(like
>in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet 
cylinder has been
>laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time 
equal to the time it
>was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, 
it has to be set
>upright for 4 hours before using it. 

Tanks I use weigh about 400 pounds and we transport them 
laying down. I've always just stood them up and waited 1 
hour before using them, never had any problem. Supplier said 
"absolute minimum is 30 min when tank warm"

Regards
Don


From n5kzw@eden.com Thu May 23 14:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edwin bailen <n5kzw@eden.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:44:42 -0500
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On 14 May 1996 hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com wrote:

> 
> I'm interested in turning some wheels for my son's pinewood derby 
> car. So, I'm wondering if there is any kind of setup for a hobby
> lathe to allow me to use small, narrow collets.
> 
> 
>                    ---
>                    |
>                    |--
>                    |--
>                    |
>                    ---
> 
> This, more or less, is a cross section of the wheel. I need to 
> chuck up on the center spindle of the wheel without interference
> from the outer rim. Is there any kind of small tooling that will
> let me do that?
> 
> 
>                                    Larry Mayo
> 
> 
A while back, a test was being circulated for people to check if they 
were geeks.  One of the questions I answered YES to was "Have you ever 
designed your son's pinewood derby car on AutoCAD?".  I never thought of 
truing the wheels on the lathe!

Can you mount a Jacobs chuck on the spindle, or on something that fits in 
your chuck?  That would let you clamp down on one of the mandrels they 
sell for truing the wheels.

Regards,
Ed


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
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: Sure. But get the silicon from a metals supplier. Like someone who
: makes silicon bronze. A foundry. What's all this talk about melting
: down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
: exactly is in them!

Well, a fair number of us....  The base is *very* pure silicon,
while the dopants (which make the transistors) are in the ppb to ppm
range.  With the topside stuff (the metals that make it look like a
chip), you'd get:  silicon dioxide, some silicon nitride (occasionally
some polyamide, which would burn out), and some metals.. at a rough 
estimate, there would be about 0.5% 'gunk' in place, most of which
would be silicon dioxide and aluminum.  (Roughly equal proportions.  BTW,
the exotic metals would show up as a trace.  Might be some Pt, some
Ta, W, Ti, etc, but this shouldn't be a factor.)

The raw silicon wafers are *extremely* pure, and unfortunately,
extremely expensive.  OTOH, the industry scraps a fair amount of wafers,
and if you can get hold of scraps without metal on it, you've got a good
source of pure silicon.

Pete Brooks



From jhall@atcon.com Thu May 23 14:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: Wed, 15 May 96 02:19:26 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
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In article <4n9tfd$5tv@news.primeline.com>,
   Tom Alexander <tomstand@primeline.com> wrote:
> I realize this may not be the place to ask, but wonder if anyone 
knows where to 
>find the kind of brushes used to clean the long tubes in a full-sized 
steam boiler?
>I've got a running engine with 10-foot, 2"-diam. tubes that hasn't 
been cleaned in 
>years and haven't figured out how to do it.
>
Why not pick up  some of the fibreglas rods chimney sweeps use and 
mount a brush on the end of those? The rods ought to be a hardware 
store item (maybe one of the bigger stores, admittedly). For a brush 
how about a wire cup intended for angle grinders? all you need is an 
adapter from the thread of one to the thread of the other.
Good luck!
John


From larry_matthess@qmail4.sp.trw.com Thu May 23 14:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Larry Matthess <larry_matthess@qmail4.sp.trw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Graziano SAG 12 Lathe
Date: 14 May 1996 20:02:10 GMT
Organization: TRW Engineering
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Am looking for a lathe, and may have an opportunity to buy a Graziano Sag
12 tool room lathe.  Having never heard of this machine, am wondering if
anyone who has could offer advise on it`s merits and value (or lack
thereof).

Thank You,

      Larry M.


From demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com Thu May 23 14:18:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com (Bob DeMers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: 14 May 1996 14:34:16 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
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In article <4na1id$aav@ssbunews.ih.att.com>, hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com
(-Mayo,H.H.) wrote:

> I'm interested in turning some wheels for my son's pinewood derby 
> car. So, I'm wondering if there is any kind of setup for a hobby
> lathe to allow me to use small, narrow collets.

Regardless if it is possible to do, it is more than likely against the
rules.  I know that turning the wheels down is a classic technique, but I
think that current rules forbid it.  You probably want to check on this
before risking disqualification.
-- 
Bob DeMers
Honeywell Technology Center
demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com


From blake@ncweb.com Thu May 23 14:18:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: 15 May 1996 03:41:10 GMT
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <blake-1405962332080001@206.84.2.80>
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$ You might get the following to work for you.  Homebrewer's have long
$ hoses that need to be brushed out.  One way to do that is to insert a
$ long wire from the opposite end and when it is completely through,
$ then attach an appropriate brush on it and pull it back through.  If
$ your tubes are open at both ends, then it should work.
$ 
This brush would probably fall apart after 3 flues.  I have had cheap flue
brushes that were no good.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From blake@ncweb.com Thu May 23 14:18:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: 15 May 1996 03:45:03 GMT
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 20
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References: <4n9tfd$5tv@news.primeline.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-31.ncweb.com

In article <4n9tfd$5tv@news.primeline.com>, Tom Alexander
<tomstand@primeline.com> wrote:

$  I realize this may not be the place to ask, but wonder if anyone knows
where to 
$ find the kind of brushes used to clean the long tubes in a full-sized
steam boiler?
$ I've got a running engine with 10-foot, 2"-diam. tubes that hasn't been
cleaned in 
$ years and haven't figured out how to do it.

A friend of mine, Rich Miller, has a factory that makes flue brushes.  You
can reach him at richis@ncweb.com.  What kind of engine do you have?  I
have a 20 horsepower Rumely steam traction engine.  Flue scrapers work
good too.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Thu May 23 14:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole Saw Clogging
Date: 15 May 1996 04:17:48 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
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Edk4 (edk4@aol.com) wrote:
: Does anyone have a solution to the problem of *chips clogging the groove*,

: when you're trying to cut a hole in metal or plastic with a large diameter
: hole saw?
: Once the saw cuts deeper than the gullets of its teeth, my troubles begin.

: Any saw, over about 1", begins to scream and overheat very quickly, even
: with
: lots of lubricant and slow SPM. The problem seems to be that there's no
: easy
: way to get the chips out of the groove. Simply lifting the saw and
: brushing off the
: teeth doesn't solve the problem. 

: Is there a way to modify the saw (maybe with slots to bring the chips up
: out 
: of the  groove) or is there a particular type of lubricant/coolant that
: will make 
: a difference?

: I've even tried cutting a 3" hole in a piece of 5/8" Aluminum plate, on
: the lathe,
: using back gears at the lowest speed (probably about 60 RPM)  But, despite
: frequently withdrawing the saw, cleaning off the teeth and applying as
: much
: AlumTap as possible, it was a *very* long, nasty, noisey and tedious job.

: ------------------
: Ed Kingsley 

When doing work in a drill press I have had good luck by simple drilling
a 1/2 inch or so hole tangent to the outside of the hole you need drilled.
(On the inside of the larger hole if the outside is the "good" part
or on the outside of the larger hole if what you really wanted was the
"donut" ).  I have used this in 3/4 inch AL plate in order to cut blanks
for gears or pulleys with good success with up to 2 1/2 inch holes (my 
largest hole saw).  I have found some of the softer AL is very hard to work 
with any tools as it always seems to bond to the tool no matter what
cutting fluid I use.  I have been able to get some indication of the
ease of cutting when selection the next bit of scrap AL by hitting the
part.  If it rings that seems to mean it is fairly hard and easy to
machine, if it has a dull thud then I usually leave in the pile at the
scrap yard.




From frisbie@flying-disk.com Thu May 23 14:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for KDK Toolholders
Message-ID: <1996May14.111610.898@flying-disk.com>
Date: 14 May 96 11:16:10 PDT
References: <4n2080$t03@pumpkin.cdepot.net>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 35

In article <4n2080$t03@pumpkin.cdepot.net>, 
Max Elorza <madmax@cdepot.net> writes:

> I'm having trouble finding a source for KDK Toolholders. 
> Anybody know of a reasonable source?

IPS carries them.   Ask them to FAX you pages 155 and 156
>from  their catalog #492.

    Industrial Pipe & Steel Co.
    9936 E. Rush Street
    South El Monte, CA 91733

    818-443-9467 (voice)
    818-579-4602 (FAX)
    800-423-4981 (voice)

I have gotten some good deals by calling the factory and
asking for "seconds".   If they have any, they will generally
give you a good discount.   However, smart local machinists
usually snap up the few flawed units, so don't expect to
find the one you want.

   KDK
   10654 Garfield Avenue
   P.O. Box 1096
   South Gate, CA 90280

   213-923-0951 (voice)
   213-923-8199

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Thu May 23 14:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get copywrite stamp?
Message-ID: <1996May14.113240.899@flying-disk.com>
Date: 14 May 96 11:32:40 PDT
References: <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 23

In article <blake-1105962318380001@206.84.2.81>, 
blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki) writes:

> Where can I get a metal stamp that had the copywrite logo
> (C in a circle) to stamp my artwork?

    M. E. Cunningham Co. (MECO)
    Rochester Road
    P.O. Box 307
    Ingomar, PA 15127

    412-369-9199 (voice)
    412-366-3048 (FAX)

Just call them and describe what you want.   The odds are
good that it is a stock item.   If not, they make custom
stamps at reasonable prices.   Trademark stamps are one
of their specialities.   Get their catalog for more information.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 15 May 1996 04:47:06 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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David Baggaley (baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca) wrote:
: Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?
: I have an old circular saw that seems unusually light for it's size and I'm
: curious what it's made of. 

: I know magnesium burns, but I'm not that curious.

Sure - that's how you test it.  File a tiny bit off a corner somewhere.
You don't need more than a few grains.  Light a propane torch, and sprinkle
the file dust into the flame.  If you see tiny but brilliant blue-white
sparkles flash in the flame, it is a flammable metal, ie. Mg or Ti.
Hmmm.. I wonder how safe it is to make power tools (with brush-type motors,
even!) with Magnesium housings.  A little short in the motor could be a
real experience.  I've seen a few VW microbuses light up, and it is
spectacular - like a 4th of July display when the firemen put it out.
I don't know whether it is the engine block or the transaxle that is Mg,
but one of them clearly is!


From rcook@BIX.com Thu May 23 14:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Learn Sheetmetal Skills
Date: 15 May 1996 04:00:37 GMT
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Randy Shipp wrote:
>Where would one find the tools needed?

You've got a ball-peen hammer, don't you? Find a patch of ground without a
lot of rocks and start practicing.

This is not as flip as it sounds. The problem is that armoring (other than
chain mail or fastening crudely formed plates to leather) requires a lot of
skills. You learn the skills by doing. Dishing metal is a basic skill and
starting with light sheet (galvanized for duct work) raising against the
ground is a fast, inexpensive way to start learning.

The books will show you things you can adapt. I say 'adapt' advisedly
because for armoring you're working heavier material than what is commonly
used. For example a lot of the techniques are basically the same as in auto
body work, but the tools should be heavier than the stakes and hammers 
used in body and fender work. Some of these things you can use, most you're
going to have to make or acquire from non-standard sources.

>  I suspect that a lot more than a hammer and sheet metal are needed; how
>about anvil, stakes, dishes, shears, bending brakes, punches, etc?

Eventually, yes. But that stuff is both expensive and somewhat specialized
depending on what you're  doing. Especially the various kinds of stakes and
hammers. Until you have some idea of what you're doing and what you want to
make, you can spend thousands of dollars to no good purpose.

However you can improvise. For example I used to make small stakes out of
railroad spikes for fluting and such. Common hammers can be annealed,
re-formed with the forge and grinder, etc. Two of the most useful tools for
raising and dishing metal were a metal wash basin full of sand (with
catproof cover) and a ball hitch.

But here again, you have to decide what you're trying to do and what
operations you need to perform it. That takes knowledge and you get
knowledge by working metal.

>  In order to be able to make
>simple things (like a coat of plates, which requires only a shear,
>punch, brake and grinder), how much could someone expect to pay?

Well, a good shear, (a Beverly shear) for a size that will work armor
thickness metal went for about $400 the last time I priced one. Not cheap,
but there are alternatives, depending on what you're doing.

>  Or just for an anvil, hammers, stakes and dishes for simple raising,
>dishing and rivetting?

Here you can go hog-wild. There is an enormous array of hammers and stakes
you can use and I know smiths with perhaps $20,000 $30,000 in hammers and
stakes alone. OTOH, you can do pretty good work with a sufficently heavy
ball-peen hammer and a lead block.

Jess Hawley, the man who taught me the rudiments of blacksmithing, had a
complete form cast for the skull of a pig-faced basinet so he could raise
the thing properly. I don't know how much that cost him, but Jess was a
perfectionist.

>Also, if offered an anvil, and you mostly want to make SCA armor, what
>specifications or types of anvils should one consider?

Depends on how much and what kind of anvil. My first real anvil was a small
(#50) model that was beat all to heck by a farrier. I did some pretty good
work on it. My current one is a 150 or 200 pounder. However I did a lot of
my work on a heavy bick that fits into a stake holder. More reach in tight
spots, among other things. I know a couple of people who do most of their
work on sections of railroad rail.

In general you take what you can get if you can get it at a reasonable
price and improvise the rest. Armoring, like blacksmithing, is a craft for
people who like to improvise. You sure do enough of it.

Pretty vague, I know. But if you look in the books you'll see what I mean.

--RC


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole Saw Clogging
Date: 15 May 1996 01:53:17 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
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In <4nb8qr$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com> edk4@aol.com (Edk4) writes: 
>
>Does anyone have a solution to the problem of *chips clogging the
groove*,
>
>when you're trying to cut a hole in metal or plastic with a large
diameter
>hole saw?
>Once the saw cuts deeper than the gullets of its teeth, my troubles
begin.
>
>Any saw, over about 1", begins to scream and overheat very quickly,
even
>with
>lots of lubricant and slow SPM. The problem seems to be that there's
no
>easy
>way to get the chips out of the groove. Simply lifting the saw and
>brushing off the
>teeth doesn't solve the problem. 
>
>Is there a way to modify the saw (maybe with slots to bring the chips
up
-snip-
>
>------------------
>Ed Kingsley 
>
>
Ed,
I usually drill a chip relief hole through the piece tangent to the
inside of the hole saw's path.  usually a 5/16" or so.  the chips
simply fall through the hole and don't accumulate to clog.  This also
works great when cutting hole in wood with a hole saw.

Hope this helps,

Alan


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?
Date: 15 May 1996 05:02:04 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 11
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Stephen Gaudio (gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU) wrote:
: Hey,

: I'm considering a design which may incorporate titanium sheet, about
: 1/8-1/4" thick. Does such an animal exist in or around the bay area?

You don't say how big a sheet of this material you need.  If it is more
than a few inches on a side, be prepared to bring your money in an armored
car. :)  Well, Titanium is not quite that expensive, but if you've never
bought it before, expect to be shocked!



From mbstudios@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mbstudios@aol.com (MBStudios)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection Molding PVC
Date: 15 May 1996 00:48:07 -0400
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And apart from all that, the molds have to be chrome plated, if not they
die REALY fast.


From klaas@uniface.nl Thu May 23 14:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 14 May 1996 11:06:20 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4n9pfc$ils@news.knoware.nl>
References: <4n512h$8lk@pollux.cmc.doe.ca>
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Determine the specific mass by weighing it and then obtaining the volume by
immersing it in water. Mg has a s.g. of 1.74 and Al of 2.7, most alloys 2.6.
Titanium (another light and strong metal) is 4.5.

Another way might be cutting off a *small* piece and set fire to it by a torch.
When it emits a bright white light, it's Mg. When it only melts at dull red
glow it is Al. Otherwise it is titanium or steel.
But a circular saw is unlikely to be magnesium or aluminum, it is probably
steel (s.g. 7.8).
The light weight is just because of its thinness.

Klaas



From gkjaer@pond.net Thu May 23 14:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Kjaer <gkjaer@pond.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Restoring Bronze Bell
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 22:23:31 -0700
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Our Old Bronze Door Bell (hand operated) fractured during vigorous 
ringing recently.  Actually the lever that held the bell broke at its 
weakest point. 

What is the simplest way to rejoin it?
	super glue did not work
	silver solder did not work
I would like to strengthen the lever at the point it broke.  If possible 
lay down more metal on the old cast part where it broke.

Appreciate any suggestions to this novice.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 14 May 1996 17:04:58 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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Several of you will recognize me as having posted before about
the 1943 9x48 SB lathe I bought a month ago. Several of you
have been very helpful, sending drawings and parts and references.

We still have many questions about it - in particular, the headstock 
design is one that we can't find any photos of. 

I've scanned in a bunch of photos of the lathe in its current 
condition, and posted them at http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html;
if you're curious to see it, or think you might have some answers,
please take a look and send some mail.

Thanks.


From ian_kirby@uow.edu.au Thu May 23 14:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ian_kirby@uow.edu.au (Ian Kirby)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: valve gear software: was stm engine timing
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 16:16:47 +1000
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The valve gear design software I mentioned in an earlier post is now
available for downloading from
http://www.demon.co.uk/livingsteam/wallace.htm
I have checked, and the site is there, and works for me.
If you do not have web access, the author of the software, Allan Wallace,
is on email at awallace@adelaide.on.net
Regards, Ian.
-- 
Ian Kirby.                          Ph: +61 42 213353
Dept of Mechanical Engineering,     Fax:+61 42 213101
University of Wollongong.           Email: i.kirby@uow.edu.au
Northfields Avenue,
Wollongong. 2522.
NSW Australia


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 15 May 1996 04:54:21 GMT
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Bob Bickers (goldstar@1stop.com) wrote:
: I have a taper attachment on my lathe but have never used it, so have been trying it out. 
: Problem how does one pick up an existing taper, ie the one in my head stock? I've mounted a 
: test indicator on the cross slide, adjusted taper att. to aproximate taper, but indicator will 
: always encrease in value then sometimes decrease or encrease depending on how att. is set, as 
: the indicator enters headstock. Should I insert indicator all the way in headstock and observe 
: readings exiting or should I be reading it going in? Does anyone know the taper used by Logan, 
: it's not Morse, nor Jarno, maybe 4 degress? Thanks Bob

The reason you get the varying readings inside the spindle taper is most 
likely wear inside the spindle.  This makes the taper really hard to pick up.
You might try visually inspecting the internal taper to see if you can
locate an area of minimum wear.  Pick up the taper from that area.
The usual way is to find out what taper you (are supposed to ) have, and then
set the taper attachment with gauge blocks, sine bars and calipers.  
Actually, if the taper attachment provides a reference surface for zero 
taper, then all you need is a sine block and a caliper (or the right gauge
blocks) to get the angle needed.  This will be a heck of a lot more accurate
than trying to pick up the taper from a worn spindle.

Machinery's handbook provides 3 methods for measuring and setting tapers.



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 14 May 1996 17:44:18 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
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>   grant@cdac.com (Grant Erwin) writes:
>  I got a flyer from NSC today (that is not a typo and not MSC)
>  which has what looks like a really first-rate little boring
>  head, Swiss made, with 2MT shank that would plug right into
>  my tailstock, and fifty percent off. Off of what, you may
>  ask. Right. The list on this thing is almost a thousand dollars.
>  
What you are probably looking at is an automatic boring head.  These
will advance the tool automagically to to also do facing.  If you don't need
that feature, buy one of the $100 variety.  The autofacing heads are
really neat.  Interestingly, Metal Lathe Accessories sells a kit to build
a really good one pretty cheap.  They advertise in HSM and also are
listed in the FAQ.


John Lovallo



From jmg@dorsai.org Thu May 23 14:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:18:52 GMT
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>In <4mre1s$qe2@zoom2.telepath.com> brantley@telepath.com (Damon
>Brantley) writes: 
>>
>>I apologize ahead of time, if this is a little off topic.
>>
>>I have some small parts that I would like to try injection molding.
>>I was thinking about trying to use a hot melt gun, but substituting 
>>some half inch plastic rod for the hot melt sticks.
>>
>>Has anyone else tried this before or recommend a type of plastic that 
>>I could try this idea out on. I have thought about casting resin, but 
>>the resin is expensive and seems rather messy to work with.
>>
>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

There are some excellent new urethane casting resins that I find
really terific for small parts. One is Synair's Pour a Cast 2, a 2
part low viscosity ivory colored resin that gels in 3 minutes and
demolds in 15. Its also measured by volume, 1:1. I believe the price
is $22 for a 2 quart kit. For extra strength I place glass mat or
strands in the mold before pouring. With products like these it hardly
pays to bother with the extra effort to make injectable molds even if
you have the equipment. Lots of industries are turning to these resins
for short runs and/or short time production.




From tomstand@primeline.com Thu May 23 14:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Alexander <tomstand@primeline.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: fire-tube brushes
Date: 14 May 1996 12:14:37 GMT
Organization: Primline Internet Services
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 I realize this may not be the place to ask, but wonder if anyone knows where to 
find the kind of brushes used to clean the long tubes in a full-sized steam boiler?
I've got a running engine with 10-foot, 2"-diam. tubes that hasn't been cleaned in 
years and haven't figured out how to do it.



From klaas@uniface.nl Thu May 23 14:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: [Q] How hot can an air-propane torch be ?
Date: 14 May 1996 11:18:03 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Is there any theoretical limit on the flame temperature of a
propane-air torch ? And any practical ?

C3H8 + 5 O2 -> 3 CO2 + 4 H2O + 2362 kJ/mol upper value

Subtract from it the heat required to heat the 20 moles of Nitrogen (drawn
with 5 M of O2) which is R [== 8.314 J/mol.K] * 20 * 1400  = 233 kJ/mol and the 
condensation heat of the H2O . Is there any theory about calculating
the flame temperature of any hydrocarbon fuel ?

Putting a Pt/PtRh10 thermocouple in the hottest part usually yields
1400-1500 degrees C.

Any other experiences ?

Klaas



From EDCP78A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Trailer Advice/Plans
Date: 14 May 1996 12:53:03 GMT
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I am considering building a utility trailer (recently learned to weld!) 
and am wondering if it would be feasable to build the frame out of 
aluminum.  I want a utility trailer that will haul up to 3500 lbs, have 
the capability of putting wood sides on it to haul dirt/mulch/etc, be 
able to carry a motorcycle, have 14" or 15" wheels, that sort of thing.  
I saw a plan book in the Northern catalog so I probably will be able to 
find a book locally.  I would appreciate any advise on this.  If I go Al, 
how do I determine the size since I suspect the plans I find will spec 
steel.  Is welding (ox/acy) Al too difficult for a beginner?  

Thanks!

Alex/VA




From JBOBER@IDA.ORG Thu May 23 14:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: JBOBER@IDA.ORG (James T. Bober)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Large/low pressure/high flow relief valves
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 10:06:53 -0500
Organization: IDA
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I'm trying to design a series of large pressure relief valves for air that
will "crack" at pressures between 1 and 10 PSI - user adjustable. Across
the spectrum of my applications, the volumes of air to be vented and the
response time requirements are such that I calculate a 0.5 to 1 square
foot vented area is necessary.  Furthermore, the valve will be subjected
to accelerations, making a spring-loaded poppet design unsuitable.

As a starting point, I'm thinking of a design which can be visualized as
follows: Take a short length of pipe (materials like PVC would be good),
having a diameter which meets my flow requirements. The inlet to the valve
is one end of the pipe; the other end of the pipe is plugged.  At the
plugged end, drill a large number of small holes circumferentially through
the pipe wall, such that the combined area of the holes equals the inlet
area.  The annular region at the plugged end of the pipe constitutes the
discharge area, i.e. air will be discharging radially. Cover the entire
pipe with an cylindrical elastic membrane - a broad elastic band, if you
will - and secure the membrane to the pipe at the valve inlet end.  At the
discharge end, the membrane remains free.  By appropriately selecting the
"fit" of the membrane, it should seal the discharge area until a critical
pressure is reached, above which the membrane stretches to unveil the
small holes beneath it, thereby venting the pressure.

Is this a sensible approach? All comments and suggestions are solicited.

Thanks,
Jim


From lewy1@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 15 May 1996 05:30:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 62
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References: <4mvl69$qpe@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4n13eh$jm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960513083551.9152A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
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In <Pine.OSF.3.91.960513083551.9152A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu> writes: 
>
>While the yield strength (the stress at which a material plastically,
or
>permanently, deforms) and the ultimate strength (the stress at which a
>piece of material fractures into two or more pieces) vary dramatically
>with alloy content and heat treatment, the stiffness (amount of
elastic
>deformation given a certain load) of a metal is most dependent on the
base
>metal of the alloy - in this case aluminum.  The stiffnesses of 2024,
6061
>and 7075 aluminum, characterized by the elastic modulus (or Young's
>modulus), are essentially the same: 10 million pounds per square 
>inch (Mpsi) (about 1/3 that of steel). 
>
>Since you are only interested in elastic properties at room
temperature,
>you would see no difference in these three alloys.  Your choice then
is
>driven by other considerations like machinability, cost, availability,
>what do you have in your scrap bin, etc. 
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
>Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
>Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
>Oakland University
>Rochester MI 48309-4401
>
>On 11 May 1996, Edk4 wrote:
>
>>  Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>> 
>> >ultimate and yield strengths are greatly dependent
>> >on temperature. 
>> 
>> Okay, but does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?
>> 
>> For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
>> thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075,
would 
>> have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room
temperature?
>> 
>> ------------------
>> Ed Kingsley
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
    Just to add to this 7075 thing. I've heard but have never tested
the probability that 7075 is notch senitive, more so than the other
structural aluminum alloys. ie I wouldn't use it in a rotor head
because of that caracteristic. However should work fine in landing
gear.


Jim

Just an opinion.


From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Thu May 23 14:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntphub.cb.att.com!ssbunews.ih.att.com!not-for-mail
From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: 14 May 1996 13:24:29 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 20
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <4na1id$aav@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ihgp4.ih.att.com


I'm interested in turning some wheels for my son's pinewood derby 
car. So, I'm wondering if there is any kind of setup for a hobby
lathe to allow me to use small, narrow collets.


                   ---
                   |
                   |--
                   |--
                   |
                   ---

This, more or less, is a cross section of the wheel. I need to 
chuck up on the center spindle of the wheel without interference
>from  the outer rim. Is there any kind of small tooling that will
let me do that?


                                   Larry Mayo


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Injection molding at home suggestions.
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 12:15:07 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
Lines: 57
Message-ID: <3199c914.1633387@news.campus.mci.net>
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On Tue, 14 May 96 07:10:00 GMT, brantley@telepath.com (Damon Brantley)
wrote:

>        Thanks for all the responses so far. My news server is extremely slow  
>at getting responses back so I have to look at Dejanews and AltaVista for 
>responses. Thus I am answering questions in a nonthreaded manner that some 
>have asked and some of my results so far.
>        First, the type of hot melt gun I am using has is a trigger type 
>instead of the thumb push type.However, since the plastic is harder than the 
>glue, you can't get much of a grip with the trigger.However, I may be able to 
>apply some type of liquid rubber material like Plasti Dip to the part the 
>grips the plastic stick to get some traction.
>       In the case of PVC, the glue gun does not get hot enough to melt the 
>plastic. Also, need good ventilation as the PVC seems to emit some 
>odor. Someone can probably tell me or warn me what it is.  I also noticed this 
>when cutting PVC with the lathe. I am going to try and get some nylon to 
>experiment with.
>        To remedy the temperature problem I am going to cannibilize a 
>soldering iron (25W Radio Shack hobbyist iron) and using it as the heating 
>element. A quick and dirty test, just holding the iron against the glue 
>(plastic) chamber yielded some melting, but I do not think I was making very 
>good contact.  I will also have to machine an adapter so that the element will 
>fit. (This is starting to turn into a project all its own now! : ) I hope I do 
>not get the iron too hot or I may melt the handle!. Will also have to be 
>careful not to get the plastic sticks too hot also. Will see what happens.
>        One response I received, said that when in a melted state, plastic is 
>still too viscous to force through the nozzle of a hot melt gun. I guess I 
>will see for myself. Worst comes to worst, I can alway use my arbor press. 
>(Oh boy, another adapter to make!)
>        Another question was about how am I making the molds. I have never 
>done this before. The simplest part is about 1 inch long with a diameter of .1 
>inches for 1/2 inch and .25 for 1/2 inch. I hope to be able to just drill 
>holes in some metal rod and fill the void with plastic.(More like casting 
>here)  After the plastic is cooled, I will have a pin in the end to eject it. 
>(Using either a hammer or arbor press) Whether I will get a plastic part back 
>or a hole filled with plastic, I do not know. Depends on how well the plastic 
>sticks to the metal. Hopefully, the shrinkage of the plastic as it cools will 
>keep the part from sticking inside the mold. 
>        If that does not work I will drill the holes and mill two halves for a 
>split mold.
>        The other part part is tubular. Depending how the above goes, witll 
>determine how I do the tubular part. I will omit the details for now.
>        I will also check into getting the book from village press that has 
>the injection molding articles from HSM. Also broke down and finally ordered a 
>subscription to HSM and PIM.
>        Hopefully, this weekend I will get a chance to try all this. I will 
>keep you all posted if there is interest.
>        
>       
>
>        
this bad stuff i work in a plant that uses 60 injection molding
machines. pvc along with some of the other plastics is very dangerous
if over heated. we've been told by health officials that one wiff of
it an it's goodbye! if you're going to play with it, be sure to vent
well as you may not be able to control temp. accurately enough.
thought i'd just throw my 2cents worth in.


From mreiney@hevanet.com Thu May 23 14:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!pacifier!rainrgnews0!hevanet.com!usenet
From: mreiney@hevanet.com (miker in Tigard, OR.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,pdx.forsale,pnw.forsale
Subject: Metal Lathe for sale, Portland Or.
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 18:04:59 GMT
Organization: Hevanet Communications
Lines: 14
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I have a small metal lathe for sale.  No brand name, but it looks like
an Atlas.  Atlas Threading gears fit.
6" swing over bed
22" between centers.
Has one threading gear for the power feed.  Can still get the Atlas
gears.
4" 3-jaw chuck
Have a motor, but it's never been hooked up.
No other tooling.
Best Offer, Pick up in Portland, Oregon.
Email will get you a jpg picture.
Possible trade for smalll motorcycle about 100cc, running or not.
miker



From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Thu May 23 14:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Russian chuck (was: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?)
Date: 15 May 1996 16:31:33 GMT
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4nd0t5$v5r@zam201.zam.kfa-juelich.de>
References: <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it> <186@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <flGV0BA8xmlxEwVe@abdab.demon.co.uk> <4n6urk$gs6@serra.unipi.it>
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In article <4n6urk$gs6@serra.unipi.it>, P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it says...
>

>Really this is the story:
>I have got a russian 3 jaws 4" chuck for 70 $ (NEW!) and i was in the 
>process of buildig the backplate for it, to true the mounting face of
>the backplate it must be screwed on the spindle and turned and after 
>unscrewed to make holes for bolts.
>At this point the problem arises, the backplate was solidly locked and
>perfectly round....
>I have imagined the chain tool solution to solve this problem, but this 
>works also for the chuck. 
>After trueing work the final result is:
>
>I have placed a ROUND bar in the chuck and it is true +- 0.01 mm or
>+- 0.0005" near the jaws and +- 0.03 (+- 0.0015") four inch from jaws;
>I think that is a good result for a RUSSIAN 70$ chuck......
>
Just being curious, but where did you get that russian chuck? Around here 
russian stuff is vented by polish people at fleamarkets. Do they make it 
to Italy too?
Regards, Honoré.



From BBeizer@gnn.com Thu May 23 14:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any more info on this lathe?
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 11:00:03
Organization: GNN
Lines: 35
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In article <5f7cc$e1c2d.391@petras> o.j.lombard wrote:
>Date:	Wed, 15 May 1996 14:28:45 GMT
>From:	"o.j.lombard" <math0007@ml.petech.ac.za>
>Newsgroups:	rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject:	Any more info on this lathe?
>
>I recently bought the following lathe and would like to know if
> anybody 
>has any information on it. All I can get from it is the following:
>CLAUSING MFG. CO., OTTUMWA, IOWA, U.S.A., with Model no: 102 and
> Serial 
>no:6669. It also has "Timken Bearing Equiped" written on its
> headstock. I 
>would appretiate any help.

Clausing was bought up by Atlas around 1950.  This is a "Clausing/Atlas" lathe as 
distinct from a Clausing/Clausing Lathe.  The two are often confused.
Look in the archives of this newsgroup.  We had a thread on this one about
a month ago.  I have serial # 2267.


Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After May 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com and bbeizer@aol.com
will not be active.  Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From nickhull@ Thu May 23 14:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nickhull@ (Nick Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need tooling supplies
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:07:02 +0000
Organization: United States Internet, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <nickhull-1505960907020001@bway-slip6.dynamic.usit.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bway-slip19.dynamic.usit.net


> >>  Alan D. Bartz <a.bartz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >>  >Can someone give me the name and address of some good tooling and
> >>  >supply companies that supply quality tooling and accessories at fair
> >>  >prices.
> >>  >
> >>  >Thanks.
> >>  >
> >>  >Alan
> >>  
> >>  
> >>  Without question, MSC Industrial Supply Co.; 800-645-7270. Their
> >>  3469-page, 10-pound catalog has it all, they deliver to me in Calif.


Just got the MSC catalog, it's big but the prices are HIGH.  I usually
deal with Wholesale Tool; smaller catalog but lower prices.  They often
have overstock items priced CHEAP!!  $25 minimum order, have had no
problems with them.

Nick


From au544@yfn.ysu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!au544
From: au544@yfn.ysu.edu (Roll Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTF: brass/bronze color solder
Date: 15 May 1996 18:41:39 GMT
Organization: Youngstown State/Youngstown Free-Net
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4nd8h3$hj0@news.ysu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: yfn2.ysu.edu


Any one know ehere to find solder that has a brass
or bronze sort of color?

thanks for any replies

cheers

Roll

-- 
   


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Thu May 23 14:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: help: household dies?
Date: 15 May 1996 08:38:03 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4ncmnr$m9q@moon.htc.honeywell.com>
References: <4na3b2$bd3@ftp.iis.com.br>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.4

In article <4na3b2$bd3@ftp.iis.com.br>, ehaddadf@iis.com.br says:
>
>Hi!
>
>In Briney's "Home Machinist;s handbook" he mentions a way to imitate 
aluminium anodozing.
>He say's  one must use a lye solution and then "a solution of household 
dye".
>
>Can anyone tell me what dies are these?
>Where I can purchase small quantities?
>I'm looking for a dull black and a britght white.
>
>Many Thanks!
>
>eduardo haddad filho
>ehaddadf@iis.com.br
>

The dyes most recommended for this are fabric dyes.  Some people have 
used food coloring dyes with so-so success.  The use particularly of 
aniline type fabric dyes is an old trick in ham radio.  The lye-converted 
surface goes way back in amateur electronics.

Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From reactive@sedona.net Thu May 23 14:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Seeley <reactive@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: --SUPERBIKE EXHAUST SYSTEMS Made of TITANIUM Anyboy Make Them?--
Date: 15 May 1996 06:36:37 GMT
Organization: Reactive Metals Studio, Inc.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4nbu1l$k50@vortex.sedona.net>
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Actually the weight savings of titanium over steel would be 40%.
That is pretty substanial. There might be another consideration: Heat 
travels very slowly in Ti. The system would not tend to pull any heat 
away from the exhaust port. BIll




From frisbie@flying-disk.com Thu May 23 14:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compound rest for 9-10 south bend for sale
Message-ID: <1996May15.124101.903@flying-disk.com>
Date: 15 May 96 12:41:01 PDT
References: <319875ef.1621123@news.campus.mci.net>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 29

In article <319875ef.1621123@news.campus.mci.net>, 
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net writes:

> I have a compound rest for a South Bend 9-10 lathe.  It is of the
> large dial style .200 per rev. satin dial. very good condition. will
> sell for 65.00 including shipping
> danny
> deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net

I tried to follow-up on this via e-mail, but it was bounced with
the following message:

       ----- Transcript of session follows -----
    ... while talking to som-uky-01.campus.mci.net.:
    >>> RCPT To:<deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net>
    <<< 550 <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net>... User unknown
    550 som-uky.campus.mci.net!deers... User unknown

If you read this, Danny, I would like to get in touch with
you and purchase this compound rest.   Please call me or
send me a working e-mail address.

Thanks,
Alan

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From felice@pioneer.net Thu May 23 14:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole Saw Clogging
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 20:18:41 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <felice.65.319A3C21@pioneer.net>
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I've cut holes in aluminum with cheap hole saws, and it's important to lift 
the head up as soon as it stops freely cutting, stop the drill press, and 
using a hook or dental tool take the chips out of the cut circle groove, and
the hole saw itself (a lot of chips get packed into the saw body) Also, flood
the cutting area with oil. A slit in the saw body would help I guess, as would
injecting coolant through the spindle.


In article <4nb8qr$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com> edk4@aol.com (Edk4) writes:
>From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
>Subject: Hole Saw Clogging
>Date: 14 May 1996 20:34:35 -0400

>Does anyone have a solution to the problem of *chips clogging the groove*,

>when you're trying to cut a hole in metal or plastic with a large diameter
>hole saw?
>Once the saw cuts deeper than the gullets of its teeth, my troubles begin.

>Any saw, over about 1", begins to scream and overheat very quickly, even
>with
>lots of lubricant and slow SPM. The problem seems to be that there's no
>easy
>way to get the chips out of the groove. Simply lifting the saw and
>brushing off the
>teeth doesn't solve the problem. 

>Is there a way to modify the saw (maybe with slots to bring the chips up
>out 
>of the  groove) or is there a particular type of lubricant/coolant that
>will make 
>a difference?

>I've even tried cutting a 3" hole in a piece of 5/8" Aluminum plate, on
>the lathe,
>using back gears at the lowest speed (probably about 60 RPM)  But, despite
>frequently withdrawing the saw, cleaning off the teeth and applying as
>much
>AlumTap as possible, it was a *very* long, nasty, noisey and tedious job.

>------------------
>Ed Kingsley 





From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Coloring Aluminum with household dyes
Date: 15 May 1996 17:09:21 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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>The dyes most recommended for this are fabric dyes. Some people 
>used food coloring dyes with so-so success.  The use particularly of 
>aniline type fabric dyes is an old trick in ham radio.  The lye-converted

>surface goes way back in amateur electronics.

>Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
>stauffer@htc.honeywell.com

This idea is extremely interesting. Can someone post the
specific lye solution 'formula'  and the process involved to
use fabric dyes to color Aluminum.

How 'fast' are the colors. I have an Aluminum blackening
agent which, unless I prepared the surface poorly, only put
on a thin powdery coating which rubbed of without much
difficulty. I believe it was 'Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black'.

I could definitely use an in-shop alternative to anodizing, even
if it's only half as good.

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Thu May 23 14:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Compound rest for 9-10 south bend for sale
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:04:47 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
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I have a compound rest for a South Bend 9-10 lathe.  It is of the
large dial style .200 per rev. satin dial. very good condition. will
sell for 65.00 including shipping
danny
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From drw129@email.psu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: drw129@psu.edu (Lugnut)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Seeking 3-axis vertical mill for University shop
Date: 15 May 1996 21:29:18 GMT
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
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	I am seeking information and leads on the purchase of a used 
vertical mill for use in the fabrication shop in the Agricultural Engineering 
department of Penn State University.  I'm not certain as to the costs 
involved, but there may be a tax break involved for the sale of this item to 
the University <DO NOT quote me on this!>  Any leads, please e-mail to me 
personally.

			- Dan Warner
			Penn State Agricultural Engineering



From lone@alumnae.caltech.edu Thu May 23 14:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardinge Collets
Date: 15 May 1996 21:40:36 GMT
Organization: Caltech Alumni Association
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I see that due to some problem with the news poster program, this was
posted more than once, and I apologize for this.

In article <4n8icl$875@gap.cco.caltech.edu>,
A. Abid <lone@alumnae.caltech.edu> wrote:
>Someone who picked up 2x72 hardinge 5C collets for about $500 is offering 
>one set to me for about $250. The set comes with a stand/rack. Initially
>I was excited, but now I see Rutland tool selling new 5C collets for about
>the same price per collet in their largest set, which is either 36 or 72.
>I wanted advice on what is the best choice and why? Old Hardinge collets
>or new import quality ones? Both objective and subjective advice would be
>helpful.
>
>AA
>
>
>




From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 15 May 1996 22:46:54 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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One of the things I need for this lathe is a new motor. The original
was apparently a special model made for South Bend by GE; the
capacitor was relocated from the standard place, and there
was a relay included (for some function that I haven't yet
determined). 

The GE model number was 5KC63AB494. Not surprisingly, no one
has a modern cross-reference for it.

The basic stats are: 1725 RPM, 1/2 HP, NEMA frame number 66, 
115VAC, 1 phase, capacitor start/instant reverse. Frame 66 is
"almost obsolete" now; Grainger doesn't list anything as small
as 1/2 HP in that frame size.

I can go larger; that's no problem, but it's expensive ($225 or more).
What I'd like to find is an old motor that's got the right specs.

Anyone have ideas on where to look? Thanks.


From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: AL Angle Stiffness
Date: 15 May 1996 13:43:00 -0400
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Thanks to all who entered this fray. I think I understand the difference
now
between stiffness and ultimate yield strength.

What I'm still puzzled about concerns the application. 

I have a 5C rotary indexer (similar to a Spin Index Fixture) which, as 
designed, can only be used in the horizontal position. I'd like to be able
to
use it in the vertical position, and that requires something like an 
angle 
plate. It would have to be about 4"x6"x4" to work on my mill.

I ran across a piece of 4"x6"x3/4" thick, 6061-T6 AL angle recently, and
my
questions regarding relative strenghs of alloys and stiffness vs tensile
strength
were directed at determining whether it would be suitable for the job.
I've always
considered that steel was the better material, but I don't have a source
of thick
steel angle, in small lengths.

I expect that the AL angle would be more than adequate. Any comments?

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From rdennett@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rdennett@aol.com (RDennett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to make castings for lathe
Date: 15 May 1996 19:55:48 -0400
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Hello,

I just purchased Dave Gingery's _Metal Lathe_ and I have several questions
about some of the casting terminology.  Here are some:

What is a draft?
What is green sand?
What does it mean to ram?
What does it mean to strike off?
What is a molding board?
What is a bottom board?
What is a roll (as in double-roll)?
What does it mean to rub in?
What is the parting face of a pattern?
What is a blank cope?
What is a false cope?

I think I know what many of these terms mean but I want to know.  Are
these these terms explained more thoroughly in _The Charcoal Foundry_? 
(As well as the casting process)  If not, could someone tell me where I
could find a book on metal casting for the beginner?

While we're at it, I don't really know anything about metal turning.  Can
anyone recommend a rudimentary book on this subject?  The bookstore
doesn't have _Lathe Work for Dummies_ <g>.

Thanks a lot,
Rob
Robert Dennett
email: rdennett@aol.com


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AL Angle Stiffness
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 15:03:38 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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Should work fine, Ed.  I will let you figure out how to scrape it to a
true 90 degrees!
John


On 15 May 1996, Edk4 wrote:

> Thanks to all who entered this fray. I think I understand the difference
> now
> between stiffness and ultimate yield strength.
> 
> What I'm still puzzled about concerns the application. 
> 
> I have a 5C rotary indexer (similar to a Spin Index Fixture) which, as 
> designed, can only be used in the horizontal position. I'd like to be able
> to
> use it in the vertical position, and that requires something like an 
> angle 
> plate. It would have to be about 4"x6"x4" to work on my mill.
> 
> I ran across a piece of 4"x6"x3/4" thick, 6061-T6 AL angle recently, and
> my
> questions regarding relative strenghs of alloys and stiffness vs tensile
> strength
> were directed at determining whether it would be suitable for the job.
> I've always
> considered that steel was the better material, but I don't have a source
> of thick
> steel angle, in small lengths.
> 
> I expect that the AL angle would be more than adequate. Any comments?
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 
> 
> 
> 


From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: 14 May 1996 07:13:42 -0400
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I recall seeing, I think in HS, several years ago, an article describing
what I 
think the author called a "Banjo Chuck Wrench", or something like that.

It was shaped like a ping-pong paddle, made of plywood, and had an
equalatteral
"Y" shaped cutout in the center of the paddle part.

The "Y" was shaped to fit snuggly over *all three jaws", so that when
torsion was
applied, all of the jaws shared the stress, more or less equally. He
reported that it
worked very well.

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Thu May 23 14:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tooth repair?
Date: 14 May 1996 13:14:10 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
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In article <4n8til$hhk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD) says:
>
>I have been following the thread about removing a lathe chuck.
>The possibility of breaking a gear tooth is very real.  I have!
>
>Now, what is the best way to repair said broken tooth
>without complete disassembly and replacement?

I did it making a "separator" using a refractory material and rebuilding
the lost tooth using MIG weld, after I have shaped the raw material
using a similar gear as reference.
It worked ... up the first stress. at the first stress the rebuilt tooth
is gone. Now I am ordering the spare part to Myford.
I know that someone has succesfully rebuilt teeth, but I have failed.

>Is there an epoxy or something that can be used by making 
>a mold of several good teeth and transferring the shape to the 
>empty space?  

I have used intesively epoxy resin (for hobby projects) in the past 
and my opinion is:
                    forget it.

>
>I would appreciate any suggestions or warnings you folks can 
>offer.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Jay Tuckwood
>
>================================================================
>Why does "EXPERIENCE" take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "EXERCISE"     take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "THE CURE"     take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "PROFIT"          take so long and hurt so much?
>================================================================

Hope this helps

Paolo Zini

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From guy@boi.hp.com Thu May 23 14:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: guy@boi.hp.com (Guy Burnham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What's in the bottom of the forge??
Date: 15 May 1996 15:41:10 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co.
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 I know this is a dumb question, but what goes in the bottom of a portable
 forge to keep the pan from burning through.  I bought an old Buffalo
 portable forge from an old gent last night. He though he bought it from
 the Sears catalog about '33 or so and never really got to use it much.
 It is a little (~20" dia.) farriers forge with a stamped metal pan,
 three metal legs that bolt together, and a small hand crank blower
 mounted to the rear. It has a little deflector shield on the back of
 the pan.  I know he didn't use it much because when we dumped the coal
 and dirt out of it, most of the original paper label was still intact,
 glued to the bottom of the pan. 

 Please email me direct cause I don't keep up with notes too well
 anymore. Thanks

 Guy  (guy@boi.hp.com)

-- 
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--
Guy Burnham, Color LaserJet and Consumables Div., Hewlett Packard Co. Inc.
guy@boi.hp.com     208(396-3355)

I WORK TO LIVE ... I LIVE FOR TRAINS, and OLD TRUCKS, and OLD TRACTORS and ..

Disclaimer: Don't you be the only one to take me seriously!  
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--


From guy@boi.hp.com Thu May 23 14:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: guy@boi.hp.com (Guy Burnham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What the heck is this tool?>
Date: 15 May 1996 15:47:09 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co.
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While looking over this guy's stuff last night, he showed me something
that I could not recognize. He did not know where it came from or what
it was.  It is hard to describe but I will try.  It consists of a
base which bolts to a bench or ??, a crank and gears, a wheel about 14"
in diameter that is turned very slowly by the crank and a sort of a
pliers arrangement mouned to the base at the rim of the wheel.  The
whell looks like it was made to have something clamped to it. The
"pliers" are actually fixed at the pivot to the base. One handle is
immoble and has a small roller wheel. The other handle has a flat chisel
blade that presses against the roller.  It looks like it was designed to
trim or form some round disk of metal or leather or ?? by clamping it to
the wheel and turning the crank while squeezing the handles together to
cut the edge.  Cant imagine what for though. 14" seems way big for pump
leathers 

What the heck is it??? Please reply directly by email as I can't check
notes very often. Thanks

Guy  guy@boi.hp.com

PS I figured it was worth $20 just for curiosity.  I think I'll hang it
on the wall and see if anybody can identify it. 


--
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--
Guy Burnham, Color LaserJet and Consumables Div., Hewlett Packard Co. Inc.
guy@boi.hp.com     208(396-3355)                  Boise, Idaho
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--


-- 
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--
Guy Burnham, Color LaserJet and Consumables Div., Hewlett Packard Co. Inc.
guy@boi.hp.com     208(396-3355)

I WORK TO LIVE ... I LIVE FOR TRAINS, and OLD TRUCKS, and OLD TRACTORS and ..

Disclaimer: Don't you be the only one to take me seriously!  
--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--|--


From wwebster@nortel.ca Thu May 23 14:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:16:52 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <wwebster-1505960916520001@47.116.15.87>
References: <4mvl69$qpe@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4n13eh$jm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960513083551.9152A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <4nbq5l$cqs@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

In article <4nbq5l$cqs@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>,
lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis) wrote:

>     Just to add to this 7075 thing. I've heard but have never tested
> the probability that 7075 is notch senitive,

For those who don't know (like me), what is notch sensitive?

Interesting following this thread.

For model airplane engines, we find that 7075 is used for connecting rods
and for the cylinder head which holds the glow plug.  I would expect the
rod stays at a resonable temperature since it is always getting a spray of
fuel on it.  The cyclinder head is definitely HOT!  Seems we measured this
once, and it was around 290-300F.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From owen@davies.mv.com Thu May 23 14:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: owen@davies.mv.com
Subject: Re: Compressor
Message-ID: <DrGIoE.7DK@mv.mv.com>
Organization: MV Communications, Inc.
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 17:17:02 GMT
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>   "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> writes:
>
>  (in response to other messages on this topic, here omitted)
>  
>  Right.  There were a number of larger aircompressors on the market about
>  thirty or forty years ago made from Ford flatheads.  You pull the valves
>  from one bank and put on a special head that has inlet check valves and
>  outlet check valves to a delivery manifold.  You run it on the four 
>  cylinders on the other side.  You have to be sure you modify the intake
>  manifold to only put fuel mixture to the four cylinders that are running
>  as an engine.  Compressed fuel/air mixture could be quite explosive in 
>  your air tool!  
>  They delivered a LOT of air at about 90 psi.  Excellent for jackhammers 
>  and similiar tools.
>
Twenty years or so ago, someone made up similar compressors out of
Volks engines.  They were supposed to have worked out pretty well.


From tenter@voicenet.com Thu May 23 14:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tenter@voicenet.com (Tom Enterline)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tooth repair?
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 03:51:53 GMT
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tuckwood@aol.com (TUCKWOOD) wrote:

>I have been following the thread about removing a lathe chuck.
>The possibility of breaking a gear tooth is very real.  I have!

>Now, what is the best way to repair said broken tooth
>without complete disassembly and replacement?
>Is there an epoxy or something that can be used by making 
>a mold of several good teeth and transferring the shape to the 
>empty space?  

>I would appreciate any suggestions or warnings you folks can 
>offer.

>Many thanks,

>Jay Tuckwood

>================================================================
>Why does "EXPERIENCE" take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "EXERCISE"     take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "THE CURE"     take so long and hurt so much?
>Why does "PROFIT"          take so long and hurt so much?
>================================================================
My father has built up many broken gear teeth on farm machinery by
stick welding and freehand grinding.  It usually worked, but was also
usually noisy since tooth form was imperfect.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 16 May 1996 05:25:18 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Grant Erwin (grant@cdac.com) wrote:
: I got a flyer from NSC today (that is not a typo and not MSC)
: which has what looks like a really first-rate little boring
: head, Swiss made, with 2MT shank that would plug right into
: my tailstock, and fifty percent off. Off of what, you may
: ask. Right. The list on this thing is almost a thousand dollars.

I got the $59 Enco 2" boring head some years ago.  Since I have an M-head
bridgeport with the B&S #7 spindle taper, I couldn't get a direct taper
arbor for the boring head.  So I got the 1/2" straight shank arbor, the
biggest you can get for B&S #7 collets.  I have never been able to get
smooth boring with this unit.  I use a set of 9 1/2" boring bars with
brazed carbide tips that is often sold with the head.  After some tinkering,
I have decided that the problem is the 1/2" straight shank is too flexible!
So, I thought that I might warn you that the #2 Morse Taper is not likely to
be much stiffer.  A project for a rainy weekend is to make a B&S #7 arbor
to fit the back of the boring head, and see if it does better.

Of course, I could be shooting up the wrong tree, and it is really the 
stiffness of the dovetail in the boring head that is the problem, but I
don't think so.


From rmorris@alaska.net Thu May 23 14:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net (Dick Morris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for machine screws smaller than 000?
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 07:15:47 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4n43gq$d5@byatt.alaska.net>
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lswilfin@cat.rpi.edu (Lee S Wilfinger) wrote:

>Folks,

>	I was wondering if anyone knew anything about machine screws
>smaller than 000. A project I'm considering would require screws
>about 2/3 the diameter of a 000.

Track down J.I. Morris (no connection to me). You should be able to
find their address in the Thomas Register. They may have what you
need. It's been a long time since I've seen their catalog but, as I
remember, #2 was their biggest screw size.

Dick Morris




From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Thu May 23 14:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: help: household dies?
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 22:52:05 mountain
Organization: SmartNet Internet Services
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In article <4na3b2$bd3@ftp.iis.com.br> ehaddadf@iis.com.br writes:
>From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
>Subject: help: household dies?
>Date: 14 May 1996 13:54:42 GMT

>Hi!

>In Briney's "Home Machinist;s handbook" he mentions a way to imitate aluminium
>anodozing.
>He say's  one must use a lye solution and then "a solution of household dye".

>Can anyone tell me what dies are these?
>Where I can purchase small quantities?
>I'm looking for a dull black and a britght white.

>Many Thanks!

>eduardo haddad filho
>ehaddadf@iis.com.br

I'm not familiar with the lye method of anodizing aluminum, but I use an
oxalic acid method for anodizing aluminum, using 15 to 25 volts, AC (not DC).
I use household dyes to colour the aluminum after the anodizing process.
The dye I use is the type used to dye cloth.  It is available here in the
local supermarkets and some drug stores.  One of the brand names is
RIT.  The instructions for most of the dyes used for cloth state that vinegar 
must be used as a "mordant".  I understand that the aluminum hydroxide acts 
as its own mordant or dye fixative, so I don't use vinegar.  I just boil the 
aluminum object fresh out of the anodizing bath in a strong solution of the 
dye in distilled water.  The colours are not brilliant, but rather subtle and 
kind of transparent.  I doubt if you will be able to get a bright white 
anodize, but don't be afraid to experiment on scraps of the same material as 
you will be using.  I am pleased with my yellows and reds.

				RJG


From bjc@nworks.com Thu May 23 14:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 00:01:58 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: tapers and how to?
Message-ID: <tcpnntpd.16.5.16.0.1.58.2645935021.563409@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks Online Service
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-=> Quoting Int:goldstar@1stop.com to ** All ** <=-

 In> I have a taper attachment on my lathe but have never used
 In> it, so have been trying it out.  Problem how does one pick
 In> up an existing taper, ie the one in my head stock? I've
 In> mounted a  test indicator on the cross slide, adjusted
 In> taper att. to aproximate taper, but indicator will always
 In> encrease in value then sometimes decrease or encrease
 In> depending on how att. is set, as  the indicator enters
 In> headstock. Should I insert indicator all the way in
 In> headstock and observe  readings exiting or should I be
 In> reading it going in? Does anyone know the taper used by
 In> Logan,  it's not Morse, nor Jarno, maybe 4 degress? Thanks
 In> Bob

The headstock taper on my 10 inch Logan is a #2 Morse. I thought
that all American Made lathes used Morse tapers.

Regards,
Brad Chaucer

... If nature abhors a vacuum, how do you explain Bill Clinton?

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From geoff@ihug.co.nz Thu May 23 14:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: geoff@ihug.co.nz (G Merryweather)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find small round belts
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 01:40:27 GMT
Organization: The Internet Group
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I have used round O-ring cord from a bearing and seals place for the
round belt on my treadle leather sewing machine. Works fine.
Geoff
Avant-Garde Engineering
Woodturning, general engineering and fabrication.
General Blacksmithing and power forging to 2cwt
Ph/ Fax 64-9-2669936



From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Thu May 23 14:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole Saw Clogging
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 23:11:30 mountain
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In article <4nb8qr$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com> edk4@aol.com (Edk4) writes:
>From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
>Subject: Hole Saw Clogging
>Date: 14 May 1996 20:34:35 -0400

>Does anyone have a solution to the problem of *chips clogging the groove*,

>when you're trying to cut a hole in metal or plastic with a large diameter
>hole saw?
>Once the saw cuts deeper than the gullets of its teeth, my troubles begin.

>Any saw, over about 1", begins to scream and overheat very quickly, even
>with
>lots of lubricant and slow SPM. The problem seems to be that there's no
>easy
>way to get the chips out of the groove. Simply lifting the saw and
>brushing off the
>teeth doesn't solve the problem. 

>Is there a way to modify the saw (maybe with slots to bring the chips up
>out 
>of the  groove) or is there a particular type of lubricant/coolant that
>will make 
>a difference?

>I've even tried cutting a 3" hole in a piece of 5/8" Aluminum plate, on
>the lathe,
>using back gears at the lowest speed (probably about 60 RPM)  But, despite
>frequently withdrawing the saw, cleaning off the teeth and applying as
>much
>AlumTap as possible, it was a *very* long, nasty, noisey and tedious job.

>------------------
>Ed Kingsley 

It sounds to me like you are doing everything right.  I just cut 24 2" holes 
in 1/2" steel plate.  I ran at 38 rpm on my (big) drill press, and used plenty 
of Rapid Tap.  The saw has to be cleared of chips very often.   A second too 
long in the hole will result in chips packing the teeth.  I use a stiff flux 
brush to clean the saw and apply the Rapid Tap.  I have found that decreasing 
the speed will invariably stop the squeeling, although sometimes increasing 
the feed pressure will quiet it down.  It is indeed a tedious job.

				RJG


From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Thu May 23 14:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: help: household dies?
Date: 14 May 1996 13:54:42 GMT
Organization: Inside Information Systems
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Hi!

In Briney's "Home Machinist;s handbook" he mentions a way to imitate aluminium anodozing.
He say's  one must use a lye solution and then "a solution of household dye".

Can anyone tell me what dies are these?
Where I can purchase small quantities?
I'm looking for a dull black and a britght white.

Many Thanks!

eduardo haddad filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Thu May 23 14:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More On NAMES Please
Message-ID: <1996May14.104702.897@flying-disk.com>
Date: 14 May 96 10:47:02 PDT
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In article <ginger.452.014A6639@pcm.ultranet.com>, 
ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) writes:

> Actually, Friday may be the best day of the show.   This year we
> went direct to  the show at 8:30 Friday, instead of our usual half
> day shopping tour of places like ProductionTool.  We picked our
> table and unloaded, then just talked all day.   We helped other guys
> unload their stuff, that gives you a chance to touch it legitimately.  :-)

The first year I went to NAMES was a spur-of-the-moment decision.
I took a red-eye flight to Detroit, arriving about 7:30 AM Friday.
A cab ride got me to Wyandotte about 8:00, where the first
exhibitors were just arriving.   I walked up to the first guy
I saw with a NAMES badge and said, "Hi, I would like to help.
Put me to work."   I worked my butt off all day long, but
enjoyed it so much that I did it again the next year.   This
is a great way to get to know other modelers.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 6" shaper (was surface grinding on a whatever)
Date: 15 May 1996 18:24:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Message-ID: <4nd7hq$9gr@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
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In <4n8v6q$tc_001@nntp.best.com> jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau) writes:

>
snip

> "A good one (milling machine)
>can be constructed very easily if you have built the shaper
>described in the November, 1928 issue of Popular Mechanics".
>Anybody got that issue?
>
>There were men in those days.
>
>--
>Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com

Joseph,
I called our main branch library and they looked up the Nov 1928 issue
and faxed the article on the 6" shaper to my local branch.  What a
great article.  I 4 pages they show the entire project, drawings,
casting process...  Wish I had more projects like this.

regards,

Alan


From janders@oro.net Thu May 23 14:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 15 May 1996 13:34:59 GMT
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Grant,

I bought a cheapo boring head some years back. It felt rough, so I 
tried to take it apart to see if I could clean it up a bit. The screw
seized before I could even get it apart. When I called to complain,
they didn't seem the least bit surprised. I ended up with a small
Criterion, which I am quite happy with.

 Jon



From alberic@access1.digex.net Thu May 23 14:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alberic@access1.digex.net (Brian Meek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 1A/3/3C collets for sale or trade, advice wanted
Date: 16 May 1996 02:26:56 -0400
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <alberic.832227445@access1>
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Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:

>Need for 32nds/64ths in collets:

>Very little!  If you have 1/16" to 1/2' by 16ths, that will
>cover nearly everything you're ever likely to do.  You might
>want to throw in 3/32, 5/32, and 7/32, but beyond that forget
>it.  If, in the next 20 years, you someday need a special 64th 
>size for some weird reason, buy it then.  But I bet you never 
>need to.  Or, if you do, you can get by some other way for
>that one-time application.

>In all probability you'll mostly use 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8, 
>and 1/2.

Greetings:
I unfortunately missed the original post in this thread, so all I have to
go on is the title.  To whoever started this: are you looking for 1A
collets? or do you have some to sell?  If you're selling, I'm interested.

Given the one response I've seen, it appears that you're looking for
advice on what sizes to concentrate on buying.  There was only one machine
that ever took a 1a collet: the 6" Ames instrument lathe.  I have one with
a full set of round collets. (I'm looking for hex, square, and
draw-on-chucks)  They only came in 1/32 divisions.  I find that I use them
all, but with emphasis on the 1/4 inch divisions, and the size below.
(Eg. 1/2 & 15/32, & etc.)

Hope this helps.

-Brian

PS--> If there's anyone else reading this who has a running Ames, drop me
a line, eh?  (I'm curious to know how many others are still out there.)

-- 
-----

--->  If 9000 monkeys pounding keyboards will eventually produce the  <---
-->  Complete Works of Shakespeare, why hasn't AOL produced a sonnet?  <--


From gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU Thu May 23 14:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Gaudio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?
Date: 16 May 1996 08:56:48 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Lines: 26
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In article <4nbogc$l39@newsreader.wustl.edu>,
Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
>Stephen Gaudio (gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU) wrote:
>: Hey,
>
>: I'm considering a design which may incorporate titanium sheet, about
>: 1/8-1/4" thick. Does such an animal exist in or around the bay area?
>
>You don't say how big a sheet of this material you need.  If it is more
>than a few inches on a side, be prepared to bring your money in an armored
>car. :)  Well, Titanium is not quite that expensive, but if you've never
>bought it before, expect to be shocked!

yeah, i guess that was a dumb omission. jeez, i just cost the net
hundreds if not thoudsands of dollars!

i'm probably going to need pieces a foot on a side. nothin huge.
below 1/8 is fine, too, down to .032 .



steve






From dobedave@usa.pipeline.com Thu May 23 14:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dobedave@usa.pipeline.com(Dobe Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardinge Collets
Date: 15 May 1996 21:27:45 GMT
Organization: Pipeline USA
Lines: 62
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On May 13, 1996 23:59:17 in article <Hardinge Collets>,
'lone@alumnae.caltech.edu (A. Abid)' wrote: 
 
 
>Someone who picked up 2x72 hardinge 5C collets for about $500 is offering 

>one set to me for about $250. The set comes with a stand/rack. Initially 
>I was excited, but now I see Rutland tool selling new 5C collets for about

>the same price per collet in their largest set, which is either 36 or 72. 
>I wanted advice on what is the best choice and why? Old Hardinge collets 
>or new import quality ones? Both objective and subjective advice would be 
>helpfull 
 
An "old Hardinge" collet "If not beat up" is worth 4 of the others. 
 
Has anyone noticed, when you buy a "no name, china, etc. collet" you have 
to drive a big screw driver in each slot for it to allow the size marked to
go in? 
-- 
Dobe Dave & the Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes) 
Doberman page (URL) http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/ 
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



From brucep@postoffice.ptd.net Thu May 23 14:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brucep@postoffice.ptd.net (Bruce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tool post grinder
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 22:41:14 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
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Anyone have plans for a small tool post grinder or know where I can
find info for on a small bed (18 to 20") lathe? I'm looking for one to
do small engine valve grinding and such. Gotta make more "power" for
my graden tractor puller :) Thanks in advance.

Bruce



From gmayner@access2.digex.net Thu May 23 14:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gmayner@access2.digex.net (G. Mayner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wire bender design
Date: 16 May 1996 00:16:05 -0400
Organization: Don't you wish you knew?
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NNTP-Posting-Host: access2.digex.net


I am looking for a plan for a with bender or the name of some firm that
sells them.  As I remember they have two pins that hold the wire on one
part of the tool.  The other half of the tool is hinged and has one pin to
bend the wire.


Suggestions?


Garry


From peterwrowe@aol.com Thu May 23 14:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peterwrowe@aol.com (PeterWRowe)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: 16 May 1996 01:37:35 -0400
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In article <4nb95u$i6b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter
Brooks) writes:

>
>: Sure. But get the silicon from a metals supplier. Like someone who
>: makes silicon bronze. A foundry. What's all this talk about melting
>: down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
>: exactly is in them!
>
>Well, a fair number of us....  The base is *very* pure silicon,
>while the dopants (which make the transistors) are in the ppb to ppm
>range.  With the topside stuff (the metals that make it look like a
>chip), you'd get:  silicon dioxide, some silicon nitride (occasionally
>some polyamide, which would burn out), and some metals.. at a rough 
>estimate, there would be about 0.5% 'gunk' in place, most of which
>would be silicon dioxide and aluminum.  (Roughly equal proportions.  BTW,
>the exotic metals would show up as a trace.  Might be some Pt, some
>Ta, W, Ti, etc, but this shouldn't be a factor.)
>
>The raw silicon wafers are *extremely* pure, and unfortunately,
>extremely expensive.  OTOH, the industry scraps a fair amount of wafers,
>and if you can get hold of scraps without metal on it, you've got a good
>source of pure silicon.
>
>Pete Brooks

And if the dopants and "junk" on top of the wafer bother you, then for
heavens sakes sand it off.  It's only a thin layer, and the material isn't
hard enough to bother a piece of wet/dry silicon carbide sanding paper. 
Just lay a sheet of perhaps 320 paper on a flat surface,  rub that chunk
of wafer across it a few times, and voila.  Your junked up surface is now
pretty cleared off...  Unlike the electronics boys, for adding silicon to
an alloy, you don't need a precision surface to the wafer...

       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
       Peter W. Rowe   M.F.A., G.G.
           Commercial and custom jeweler and metalsmith
                   Graduate Gemologist and Lapidary

Opinions expressed here are solely my own....... and subject to change    
according to my mood and the state of  my art ....

     No extra charge for smiles and friendship to those who return it
 'Cause life's too short and if we're not having fun, then why be here?
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    


From quahog@netnet.net Thu May 23 14:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: quahog@netnet.net (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic Induction Heat Treating Info
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 04:49:21 GMT
Organization: Oak Orchard
Lines: 21
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PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com> wrote:

>I have in the past paid ""big bucks" to get parts "induction
>hardened" per my customers specification. I ran them all the
>way from Southern NH to Hartfort CT, only to find the only New
>England company that specializes in this process uses the old
>fashioned "torch method" to do anything that is not high volume
>production (and is not worth winding a copper coil for). To add
>insult to injury, thay came back warped from uneven heating!
>Paul

Did you order 'induction hardening', or just hardening?  It would seem
to me that if you ordered induction hardening and weren't advised in
advance that they would 'tourch' the piece, then you should, at a
minimum, file a complaint with the state, if not the Better Business
Bureau.  Also, I would hold them responsible for correcting the
problem (that is if time and such are not a hinderence for you).


Dave B.



From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: 16 May 1996 12:53:23 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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I'd like to argue against the 1/4 turn "bump the chuck"
method. That's what will lock the sucker on tight from
jamming it. There is no reason to do this.

What has not been mentioned yet (I think anyway) is to
be sure the register on the chuck is good. You can use
Dykems blue, remove all oil from the spindle, put a VERY
light amount of blue on the chuck register, and lightly
screw the chuck home on the spindle. Unscrew the chuck
and see if there is evidence that the chuck register (the
rear of the chuck that sits against the spindle flat)
is touching the spindle all the way around. If it isn't,
then when you screw it down (and lord knows bump it),
you'll cock it a bit and make it harder to remove. And
of course throw the jaws out of concentricity with the
lathe spindle!

If the chuck register is good, and the spindle nose is
clean and the chuck threads are clean, and you lightly
oil the spindle, you should be able to (with 2 hands)
just screw it home, without bumping it. 

My .02

/Charlie



From jnaylor@southwind.net Thu May 23 14:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:37:27 -0600
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References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960514124344.2194X-100000@reliant> <DrGIoE.7DK@mv.mv.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960515145912.2847I-100000@reliant>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960515145912.2847I-100000@reliant>, "John R.
Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 15 May 1996 owen@davies.mv.com wrote:
> > Twenty years or so ago, someone made up similar compressors out of
> > Volks engines.  They were supposed to have worked out pretty well.
> > 
> I would think they would be particularly easy to convert.  Swept volume
> would be a little low for a jack hammer, but ok to most things.  Use 
> the older heads that didn't have the siamesed intake port and run it as
> an opposed twin with an opposed twin compressor.  Pull the exhaust
> pushrods for the compressor pair.  Break the intake manifold so the
> fuel mixture only goes to the running pair.  Screw a check valve into
> the spark plug hole and pipe it to your air tank.  

John and all,
This sounds like it would work, but only produce roughly half the
potential air and with half the efficiency of what you'd get with the
special head with checkvalves. If I've got your easy conversion figured
right, you'd get full pressure at the spark plug check valve on the
compression stroke alright, but without the "fire," you'd be pulling a
vacuum on the power stroke and relieving it on what would have been the
exhaust stroke (the lost potential compression stroke?).

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From math0007@ml.petech.ac.za Thu May 23 14:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "o.j.lombard" <math0007@ml.petech.ac.za>
Subject: Any more info on this lathe?
Message-ID: <5f7cc$e1c2d.391@petras>
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 14:28:45 GMT
Organization: P.E.Technikon
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I recently bought the following lathe and would like to know if anybody 
has any information on it. All I can get from it is the following:
CLAUSING MFG. CO., OTTUMWA, IOWA, U.S.A., with Model no: 102 and Serial 
no:6669. It also has "Timken Bearing Equiped" written on its headstock. I 
would appretiate any help.

Thanks
Ockert Lombard




From wmcj@syix.com Thu May 23 14:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill McJunkin <wmcj@syix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stud Removal
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:09:25 -0700
Organization: Sutter Yuba Internet Exchange
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <319AAA75.1C94@syix.com>
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Bill Webster wrote:
> 
> In article <4mmlb4$250@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
> (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
> 
> > Joseph M. Krzeszewski (jski@garden.WPI.EDU) wrote:
> >
> > : Now that the New England weather has warmed up a bit I am doing all those
> > : repairs on my car that I put off all winter. Among those repairs is
> > : replacing the studs that hold the exhaust system to the cylinder heads of my
> > : 1972 air cooled VW. I broke one of them off in February, and they are all in
> > : fairly bad shape. Given that all the studs are very rusty and banged up, I
> > : am replacing them all.
> >
> > Others have given some help in removing the studs.  But before you install
> > new studs, get a can of anti-seize.  It is a mixture of oil and metal
> > particles.  It looks like powdered aluminum and copper turned into goo.
> > But it works.  I use it on anything connected to exhaust systems, and
> > anything involving steel bolted into aluminum where heat or stress is
> > involved.  I use it on all manifolds, head bolts, spark plugs, etc.
> > I've never had a problem removing something after I used the anti-seize.
> 
> Anti-seize does work well, but, be sure to buy the type which isn't
> effected by heat.  This stuff is available in different heat ranges and
> for various chemical environments.
> 
> My neighbor put anti-seize on spark plugs and 2 out of the 6 seized!
> Turns out that there are different heat ranges for this stuff.  We talked
> to a couple of car mechanics and they said never put anti-seize on spark
> plugs.  There's simply too much heat and the anti-seize turns into a
> glue.  They said they do a fair amount of business removing plugs that
> have seized from anti-seize.
> 
> Well, I've never used the stuff on spark plugs, but I have used it on
> studs (other than those found on exhaust manifolds).  Works great.
> 
> Your mileage may vary.
> 
> regards.
> 
> --
> Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.caIf you want high temp protection and anti seize/anti galling protection 
use 'NEVER-SEEZ'.. it is (I think) the origional anti seize compound.  It 
is now made by the same company that makes LOCTITE.... It is good to 
2,000 F. It was first used to install pre-combustion chambers inside 
diesel cylinder heads (in the combustion chamber).  I have used it in 
steam, acids, lye and under water/mud etc, IT WORKS!   I use it on spark 
plugs and have never had a problem. Just remember to reduce the 
tightening torque by 10% so you don't break the stud or split a casting. 
  
-- 
Bill


From jandrews@singnet.com.sg Thu May 23 14:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jimmy D. Andrews" <jandrews@singnet.com.sg>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: disposable cylinders?
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 20:25:44 -0700
Organization: Singapore Telecom Internet Service
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <319AA038.6DD@singnet.com.sg>
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Craig Wall wrote:
> 
> In article <319897BE.2F42@galt.com>, jimg@galt.com says...
> >
> >what's the best way to dispose of the disposable mini-cylinders for
> >small propane torches?
> 
>    Turn them into mufflers.

That's what I did - I made one into a "glasspack muffler" for my Suzuki 
PE175 motorcyle to replace the existing muffler/spark arrester at the end 
of the expansion chamber.  It was much more powerfull and as quiet as 
before.  The spark arrester was not required where I was riding back 
home.

- Jimmy


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 16 May 1996 12:40:48 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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Message-ID: <4nf7og$ejt@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <1996May14.052956.27664@ole.cdac.com>
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To: grant@cdac.com

I've got one of the $100 variety I bought from Travers Tool Co.
several years ago. I assume the MSC offering is the same.
It works fine.  It may not be quite as good as the equivalent 
Criterion boring head, which is about $150 or so, but I'd be 
hard pressed to find much difference.

No way could I ever justify a $1000, or even a $500, boring
head.  If you want to be absolutely sure of the quality and/or
feel better if you buy made-in-USA, get a Criterion.  But
I think the $100 import from Travers or MSC would serve you 
just as well.


One thing about boring heads in general: I found that holding
a boring head by a straight shank in a collet does not work
very well.  It deflects too much. Get a taper shank to fit
your spindle.



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fire-tube brushes
Date: 16 May 1996 12:42:23 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: tomstand@primeline.com

I dont' have a catalog handy, but I'd check with McMaster-Carr.
It sounds like something they might carry; they've got nearly
everything else.




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: disposable cylinders?
Date: 16 May 1996 12:46:49 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: jimg@galt.com

Well, what I do is press down the valve until the
cylinder is totally empty, then poke a hole in it
with a nail.  Or it might be possible to unscrew
the relief valve or whatever it is, which might be
a safer way to guarantee it can't explode.




From gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU Thu May 23 14:18:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Gaudio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 16 May 1996 08:40:45 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Lines: 105
Message-ID: <4nepmd$mnr@agate.berkeley.edu>
References: <4n2i8d$bqk@news1.svc> <4n5081$6jh@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4n9tkk$7ug@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: euler.berkeley.edu

In article <4n9tkk$7ug@news1.svc>,
Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>
>8I had just made the comment that 7075 suffers significant strength
>reduction at eleveated temperatures.
>
>Without taking the time to look up the tables in the metals book, I'd
>say "no", to your question.
>
>'Stiffness' is not directly related to, say, yield strength.  (I assume
>you are referring to the amount of deflection of a beam held at one end
>and from which a load is suspended on the other.)
>
>In general (whoo boy, a generalization from a non-expert) I've found
>that within the same metal type (aluminum or steel) the 'stiffness'
>is for all practical purposes, the same.  That means that a boring
>bar of mild steel will be about as stiff as one of tool steel.

ah, the homemade boring bar. a workmate of mine made a boring bar of
some nice stainless, and he still got hella chatter. i had to laugh.
those cast iron boring bars possess enough (still very small) damping,
enough to fight the onset of regenerative chatter. (the damping comes
>from  the carbon (graphite) grains in the steel...they rub against each
other when deformed, thus dissipating energy instead of elastically
storing it)

if you need damping, just stick a lead weight on it with double-sided
foam tape. or whatever (you'll need a mass AND a damper!)

anyway, to stick to the thread, 7075 has way shitty fracture toughness.
this means that if you have a cracked piece of 7075, and you give it
some elastic energy (by straining it) it will think to itself: "hmm..i
think i'll release some of that energy by propagating this crack
(forming new surfaces + plastic deformation) instead of being in this
state of tension". something in the 2000 series would rather NOT form
the crack (not absolutely, of course, but this is a rough picture). this
is why we make pressure vessels out of 2000 Al...it would rather leak
than burst like a bubble.

also, this means 7075 has terrible fatigue resistance. fatigue is
nothing mysterious: it's just the microscopic propagation of a crack for
every cycle of strain.

as long as i'm here, let's talk about heat treatment: as you recall from
the FAQ, steel resists plastic deformation by holding back dislocation
propagation. grain boundaries do this (cold worked steel has higher
yield) as well as crystal structure (the hardened BCC resists plastic
deformation as opposed to the annealed FCC structure which is friendly
to dislocation propagation.)

(dislocation propagation is like a void in the otherwise perfect crystal
structure which deforms it globally the same way traffic slowly creeps
along by having one car at a time fill the gap)

now aluminum is a totally different animal. the alloying elements in
aluminum are in solution while in the melt, but would rather NOT be at
lower temperatures (like when it's solid!). this is like cold water
holding less sugar. very simple.

now when freshly poured, you can imagine aluminum thinking "wow, i
really want these dissolved elements to come out of solution"....like
crystals forming in syrup, except these are solid crystals in a solid
solution. but, as you know, life in a solid is kind of slow: crystals
don't just pop out of solution overnight (like them sugar crystals!).
so to speed the process, we heat up the aluminum and 'artificially age'
it. this jostles the atoms around enough so the solute atoms can come
together to form crystals. it's quite simple. nothing fancy: just one
solid diffusing through another. (actually, let me say that these aren't
pure crystals per se, but separate *phases*...certain preferred ratios
of mixtures....but you get the idea....)

now here's the fun part: the new phase has a slightly different 
crystal structure than the surrounding aluminum phase. for smaller
sized regions, the surrounding matrix deforms quite readily to
accommodate the ill-fit second phase. medium sized pockets induce a higher
stress, and tend to trap nearby dislocations, preventing their further
propagation and thus overall plastic deformation. finally, really large
phases tend to break away from the surrounding lattice. (this particular
phenomena is called incoherence, not unlike this article).

as you can expect, these incoherent phases are lovely birth sites for
void and cracks, and with every strain, there's a little more crack
growth. this is why aluminum lacks steel's famous 'endurance limit'.

anyway, (i hope i haven't lost you yet because here's where it gets
good), anyway, this heat treatment goes beyond the heating and quenching
of steel. you can't just heat aluminum and say "ok, that's
annealed....let's get coffee". what you've done is transformed the metal into
an incoherent mess (again, not unlike this article). sure, it's going to
have a lower yield, but not by the mechanism you are counting on! ("huh,
can't seem to get the hardness back!" <ahem> )

so there you have it. the story of aluminum.

one more thing: aluminum alloys don't work harden to any practical
degree. people shot peen machined goods and stuff to prevent fatigue
failure. what they're doing is impressing a compressive state of stress
at the surface (remember tempered glass?) which tends to *close* those
teeny-tiny cracks before they have a chance to get really brutal (or at
least, postpone them) 


steve.




From procraft@procrafter.com Thu May 23 14:18:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: procraft@procrafter.com (ProCrafter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Big Craft Show on the Internet
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:12:47 GMT
Organization: National Knowledge Network
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Hello!,
I am happy to announce the birth of the first "Real" market for
Crafters on the internet.  It's called CraftMark and will be fully
constructed by June 1st.   

CraftMark has committed to over $15,000 in consumer advertising to get
the Buyers to your WEB page at CraftMark.   We will have "KeyWord"
searches so Customers will be able to find your work by your name,
types of crafts you have, and what ever key words you choose.

It will truly be the Big Craft Show on the Internet.  Crafters can get
a WWW page at CraftMark for only $10 a month (min. 6 months).
No set up fees, programming charges or anything else.   The web page
can be so large that it prints out to three 8 1/2 x 11" business size
pages etc., and be in full color.   Most crafters can exhibit 4 to 6
products in this size Web page.  However for full details go to 

http://www.procrafter.com

and click on the CraftMark or $10/mo button.
CraftMark will soon be located at 
http://www.craftmark.com

Be sure to act soon so we will have time to build your WWW page before
the Advertising hits.
You can contact us directly at The Professional Crafter at:
817 221-1099

CraftMark
Box 799
Azle, Texas 76098-0799

Or Email - Procraft@procrafter.com

CraftMark is a Phillip Coomer company



From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Thu May 23 14:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: 16 May 1996 14:33:39 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 14
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <4nfec3$ih@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
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>
>> I'm interested in turning some wheels for my son's pinewood derby 
>> car. So, I'm wondering if there is any kind of setup for a hobby
>> lathe to allow me to use small, narrow collets.
>
>Regardless if it is possible to do, it is more than likely against the
>rules.  I know that turning the wheels down is a classic technique, but I
>think that current rules forbid it.  You probably want to check on this
>before risking disqualification.

We went to the district finals last week. All the winners had wheels 
turned down to nearly nothing. Nobody said, "Boo".

                                             Larry Mayo


From Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com Thu May 23 14:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trailer Advice/Plans
Date: 15 May 1996 14:45:21 GMT
Organization: Develcon Electronics Ltd.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4ncqm1$psa@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>
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In article <31990e58.157639198@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com says...
>
>EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey) wrote:
>
>
>>I am considering building a utility trailer (recently learned to weld!) 
>Unless you are a certified welder, I would not attempt to build
>anything that is used on public roads. A negligence action against you
>in case of an accident is almost a certainty. It is just not worth it.
>Also, I don't know what hoops you would need to jump through in order
>to get the trailer licensed but I would think (and hope) that a
>certification from a welder would be a minimum. 

You guys from BC :)

I wonder how many of the trailers in Saskatchewan (farm country) are home-
built (or should I say farm-built) ?  I know for a fact that all 4 we used
were not built at a factory.

BTW, the hoops to get the thing licensed are trivial here.  Your milage may
vary but I'd suggest checking it out with a real authority.

dave



From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:53:05 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 39
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That is exactly true, Jim.  That is why special heads are usually
used.  You could pull both pushrods on each "compressor" cylinder
and drill and tap another hole into the head for in "input" check
valve and almost double the air output.  I say almost because there
would be a fair amount of loss on the downstrokes because of the
throttleing in the check valve.
John


On Thu, 16 May 1996, Jim Naylor wrote:

> In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960515145912.2847I-100000@reliant>, "John R.
> Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:
> 
> > On Wed, 15 May 1996 owen@davies.mv.com wrote:
> > > Twenty years or so ago, someone made up similar compressors out of
> > > Volks engines.  They were supposed to have worked out pretty well.
> > > 
> > I would think they would be particularly easy to convert.  Swept volume
> > would be a little low for a jack hammer, but ok to most things.  Use 
> > the older heads that didn't have the siamesed intake port and run it as
> > an opposed twin with an opposed twin compressor.  Pull the exhaust
> > pushrods for the compressor pair.  Break the intake manifold so the
> > fuel mixture only goes to the running pair.  Screw a check valve into
> > the spark plug hole and pipe it to your air tank.  
> 
> John and all,
> This sounds like it would work, but only produce roughly half the
> potential air and with half the efficiency of what you'd get with the
> special head with checkvalves. If I've got your easy conversion figured
> right, you'd get full pressure at the spark plug check valve on the
> compression stroke alright, but without the "fire," you'd be pulling a
> vacuum on the power stroke and relieving it on what would have been the
> exhaust stroke (the lost potential compression stroke?).
> 
> -- 
> Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
> Wichita KS
> 


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Grinders
Date: 16 May 1996 12:58:25 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: jtstull@aol.com

Well, I'll have my Quorn done any year now.  ;-)

I wouldn't call it a lifelong project, but there is quite
a bit involved in making it even though most of
the steps are pretty straightforward and not all that
difficult. The only thing really finicky about it is 
making the spindle, and even that isn't too bad, i.e. 
it's do-able if you have even moderate machining skills.  

I wish I could tell you how it is to actually use, but
Life has intervened in a big way and I haven't had much
chance to work on it for quite a while.  I have gotten
it to the point that I can, with some kludginess, set
it up to grind square toolbits, and based on that 
experience it seems to have a lot of potential. I'm not
sure it's THE way to go for a tool grinder though; I
haven't been able to use it extensively enough yet to form
a good opinion of its capabilities.



From hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com Thu May 23 14:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: 16 May 1996 14:42:04 GMT
Organization: AT&T
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>>                    ---
>>                    |
>>                    |--
>>                    |--
>>                    |
>>                    ---
>> 
>> This, more or less, is a cross section of the wheel. I need to 
>> chuck up on the center spindle of the wheel without interference
>> from the outer rim. Is there any kind of small tooling that will
>> let me do that?
>> 
>> 

>Can you mount a Jacobs chuck on the spindle, or on something that fits in 
>your chuck?  That would let you clamp down on one of the mandrels they 
>sell for truing the wheels.
>
>Regards,
>Ed


I tried that. There is too much slop in a chuck to be reliable. Those
mandrels they sell are too small, and don't center the wheel properly.

                                                  Larry


From babcock@infi.net Thu May 23 14:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Ben)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Any experience with MAXNC
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:43:28 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
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I am trying to find out if anyone has experience with a company called MAXNC.  
Their advertisement is for a very low cost (<$400) kit to build a cnc milling 
machine.  They supply the motors, amps, software, lead screws, etc.  You 
supply some cross slide vices and an old computer to run the machine from the 
printer port.  The machine looks a bit crude and I wonder what accuracy could 
be obtained.  Any info would be appreciated. 
Please e-mail   babcock@infi.net

Thanks,  This is a great news group.


From nwinburn@awod.com Thu May 23 14:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Nancy Uy Winburn <nwinburn@awod.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: wet stone
Date: 16 May 1996 17:28:02 GMT
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Have large wet stone wheel, 36" dia X 5" wide
cast  iron frame and gear box with 3 ph motor
$300



From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 14:01:01 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:6789 rec.crafts.metalworking:28446 rec.crafts.jewelry:11990

On 16 May 1996, PeterWRowe wrote:

> >
> >The raw silicon wafers are *extremely* pure, and unfortunately,
> >extremely expensive.  OTOH, the industry scraps a fair amount of wafers,
> >and if you can get hold of scraps without metal on it, you've got a good
> >source of pure silicon.
> >
> >Pete Brooks
> 
> And if the dopants and "junk" on top of the wafer bother you, then for
> heavens sakes sand it off.  It's only a thin layer, and the material isn't
> hard enough to bother a piece of wet/dry silicon carbide sanding paper. 
> Just lay a sheet of perhaps 320 paper on a flat surface,  rub that chunk
> of wafer across it a few times, and voila.  Your junked up surface is now
> pretty cleared off...  Unlike the electronics boys, for adding silicon to
> an alloy, you don't need a precision surface to the wafer...
> 

For what it is worth, even the heavily doped silicon after the process is
complete and the chip is scrapped as flawed, is closer to pure silicon 
that it was possible to measure 50  years ago!  I would love to go back in
time to 1948 and give Albert Einstein a $3.00 solar pocket type credit 
card sized calculator.  He would go CRAZY because all that stuff is 
happening in a piece of PURE SAND!  It HAS to be MAGIC.
(Note: the standard Science Fiction definition of Magic is "Technology
we don't yet understand!"
John



From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Thu May 23 14:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Sure - that's how you test it.  File a tiny bit off a corner somewhere.
>You don't need more than a few grains.  Light a propane torch, and sprinkle
>the file dust into the flame.  If you see tiny but brilliant blue-white
>sparkles flash in the flame, it is a flammable metal, ie. Mg or Ti.
>Hmmm.. I wonder how safe it is to make power tools (with brush-type motors,
>even!) with Magnesium housings.  A little short in the motor could be a
>real experience.  I've seen a few VW microbuses light up, and it is
>spectacular - like a 4th of July display when the firemen put it out.
>I don't know whether it is the engine block or the transaxle that is >Mg, but one of them clearly is!

PortaCable recently (last 2 years ?) introduced a line of circular saws whose housing is made of magnesium . The ads point out how l=
ight these saws are.  Evidently PC feels this is a safe practice ?  I don't know about VW microbuses, but I do recall that the Porsc=
he 6 cylinder engine began as an aluminum casting (I am talking the main crankcase housing) then changed over to a magnesium casting=
 to save weight in the late sixties.  They changed back to aluminum after only a year or two as I recall because the cost to produce=
 the mag castings was higher and there was a durability or repair difficulty associated with the mag - I believe that the mag had a =
tendancy to exhibit dimensional instability so that round holes became ovals.  It was reported that once this metal movement occured=
, the crankcases could be remachined and would then be dimensional stable indefinately.

My Dad was a machinist and would bring home mag chips for us to play with.  Some were produced with cutting tools with a chip breake=
r (producing chips of mag) and some without a chip breaker (prducing long curling "strings" of mag up to about 2 feet in length.  Ha=
ving first hand experience with burning mag, I have quite a respect for machinists who are able to reliably and safely machine this =
stuff.

Roger



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 15 May 1996 22:29:39 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I wrote

	I've scanned in a bunch of photos of the lathe in its current 
	condition, and posted them at http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html;

This was a mistake, looking at the logs - the ; in the above line is
punctuation, not part of the URL. Point your web browser at

	http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html

*NOT*

	http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html;

Thanks to all of you who have looked and helped!


From rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us Thu May 23 14:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us (Richard Hal Buxton)
Subject: cnc mill retrofit
Message-ID: <DrIwv4.2LGC@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 00:18:39 GMT
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 8

After much thought, I am ordering a Bobcad retrofit kit for a
South Bend, Bridgeport style, milling machine.  I don't forsee
any problems mounting the stepper motors for X and Y, but I am
thinking about Z.  Should I drive the quill or the knee?  The
quill appears to be the easier route to go, but I am hoping
that there is someone out there that has been down this road
before and can save me from missing something.  Any thoughts?
Rick


From eedvab@eed.ericsson.se Thu May 23 14:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eedvab@eed.ericsson.se (Vjekoslav Balas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Coordinating motion of several motors
Date: 16 May 1996 15:46:00 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Eurolab Deutschland GmbH
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Hi,
I'd appreciate any hints on detailed steps/functions that software/hardware
needs to perform to produce coordinated motion of several motors 
eg. for 3 axis motion.

I presume that eg. for a move from (0,0,0) (X,Y,Z) -> (10,20,5),
the motor needing to move the greatest distance will need to move
fastest and speed of the other motors will be factored down
accordingly so all motors reach end point of their respective
travel at same time. What about coordination of motor ramping
as well as your experience with "look ahead" calculations
to avoid start/stop at each new point.

Could someone please give some details on this(I am going to start with software running PC parallel port but will move to dedicated uC'(s) for optimising 
motor motion capability later). All info is appreciated.

Best regards,
Vjeko

eedvab@aachen.ericsson.se





From krieder@buffnet.net Thu May 23 14:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
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PeterWRowe (peterwrowe@aol.com) wrote:
: In article <4nb95u$i6b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter
: Brooks) writes:
: >: Sure. But get the silicon from a metals supplier. Like someone who
: >: makes silicon bronze. A foundry. What's all this talk about melting
: >: down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
: >: exactly is in them!
: >The raw silicon wafers are *extremely* pure, and unfortunately,
: >extremely expensive.  OTOH, the industry scraps a fair amount of wafers,
: >and if you can get hold of scraps without metal on it, you've got a good
: >source of pure silicon.
: >Pete Brooks

: And if the dopants and "junk" on top of the wafer bother you, then for
: heavens sakes sand it off.  It's only a thin layer, and the material isn't
: hard enough to bother a piece of wet/dry silicon carbide sanding paper. 
: Just lay a sheet of perhaps 320 paper on a flat surface,  rub that chunk
: of wafer across it a few times, and voila.  Your junked up surface is now
: pretty cleared off...  Unlike the electronics boys, for adding silicon to
: an alloy, you don't need a precision surface to the wafer...

Nobody has yet said what this exotic silicon wafer scrap costs.  You should
be able to buy virgin silicon metal for well under $1 per lb.  Why fool with
expensive electronic scrap ?  The guy who was making the silver alloy is
only adding 1%... purity is not at all an issue.


From SLogan@gnn.com Thu May 23 14:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 16 May 1996 22:06:29 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 24
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References: <tcpnntpd.16.5.16.0.1.58.2645935021.563409@nworks.com>
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In article <tcpnntpd.16.5.16.0.1.58.2645935021. 563409@nworks.com>, From
 
<bjc@nworks.com>, the following was written:
> The headstock taper on my 10 inch Logan is a #2 Morse.

Brad,

I think you'll find that the taper in your headstock is actually a #3
Morse. The large end is 0.938" dia.  You might have an adapter stuck in
there.

Actually, many American machines do not use Morse tapers.  The larger
Logan's used a proprietary taper, and many South Bend's used a Jarno
Taper.  Many of these tapers are similar to a Morse, but slightly
different, so you need to be careful on what you get to go into the
spindle.

 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:18:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make castings for lathe
Date: 16 May 1996 20:31:23 GMT
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ROB:

ALSO GET GINGERY'S OTHER BOOKS...

"CHARCOAL FOUNDRY" WILL ANSWER A LOT OF YOUR QUESTIONS.

THEN, BY ALL MEANS, GO TO MR HARNESS'S WEB PAGE.  I DONT HAVE  THE 
ADDRESS HERE BUT IT IS LINKED INTO SCOTT LOGAN'S WEB PAGES.

  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct

WHEN YOU GET TO LOGAN THERE IS A LINK BUTTON TO HARNESS.
I'VE NOT READ IT ALL BUT THE FIRST COUPLE OF PAGES WERE REAL INTERESTING. 
 JUST WISH I HAD THE PLACE (I'M IN A MOBIL PARK) TO TRY SOME OF IT.  MY 
DAD DID SOME ALUMINUM CASTING 50 YEARS AGO.  I RECALL HIM SHOWING ME 
FLASKS, PARTING BAG, ETC...

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:18:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make castings for lathe
Date: 16 May 1996 20:34:53 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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SORRY ROB:

ALMOST FORGOT TO MENTION THAT YOU SHOULD ASK 

    LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS
    PO BOX 538
    BRADLEY IL  60915-0538

FOR A METALWORKING CATALOG - IT'S GREAT...


-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From EDCP78A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:18:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trailer Advice/Plans
Date: 16 May 1996 12:18:32 GMT
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Thanks to the several folks who responded both publicly and via email.  I 
now have several new aspects to consider.  I didn't go out and buy Al or 
anything else based on my first  night's welding class, so don't panic 
about my 'unsafe' trailer rolling around on the roads.  I am doing my 
research to check out the feasability of it as a project, in terms of 
metal and the regs for getting it licensed.  I still have a lot of 
practice to do, plus some smaller projects, and probably another class.  
Thanks for the feedback!

Alex



From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Thu May 23 14:18:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Coordinating motion of several motors
Date: 16 May 1996 21:30:18 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 41
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> I presume that eg. for a move from (0,0,0) (X,Y,Z) -> (10,20,5),
> the motor needing to move the greatest distance will need to move
> fastest and speed of the other motors will be factored down
> accordingly so all motors reach end point of their respective
> travel at same time. What about coordination of motor ramping
> as well as your experience with "look ahead" calculations
> to avoid start/stop at each new point.

You'll want to do a bit of path planning once you know the
desired trajectory.  You'll want to determine the limiting
acceleration so you can avoid loosing path following due
to current limits or stepper torque limits; that's what
determines max speed of the endpoint.

You'll end up with Bre.... (sp?) algorithm(same as used to draw lines
on pixeled display)  if you use either encoders+servos or steppers, 
since you want to avoid error accumulations in the path...

Your best bet w/ servos is to do a velocity loop in analog hardware
and drive that with a position error from the software...

And above all, don't forget the panic button and/or limit switches
to protect yourself and the hardware from those little programming
errors :-)... there's nothing like an suddenly open-loop servo
driving a robot in the wrong direction to make one
respect those sign and overflow bits...

been there, done that a long time (1981) ago w/ servos, encoders
and a lsi (pdp) 11-24 w/ RT11, Fortran and Macro...., A/D, D/A...


- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 13:53:44 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 25
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On 16 May 1996, Craig Wall wrote:

<snip>
> 
> 
>    Another method is to cut a shaving with a sharp pocket 
>    knife; aluminum will give a curled shaving, and magnesium
>    will give a bunch of chips. (It's far less ductile.)
> 
>    What *I* need, if anyone can help, is a quick method for
>    I.D.ing the aluminum alloy one has.  I need to be able to
>    identify 2024 and 6061, or at least distinguish these from
>    architectural alloys. 
> 
I agree Craig, I don't know any reasonable way to do that easily.
Since the alloy is over 90% aluminum it weighs the same, has the same
stiffness, and looks the same.  Actually, I have found that many so
called "architectural" alloys are 6061.  It extrudes nicely!  That is
the determining factor for most of the architectural extrusions.
That is why I don't use any aluminum for structural purposes in my 
airplane unless it has the alloy type printed all over it! :-)
Of course, my cockpit fairings on the Pietenpol can be made out of just
about anything I can obtain!
John



From david@hoskin.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:18:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:40:15 +0100
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Nobody seems to have mentioned yet the method I find simplest and
safest.
I have a piece (two pieces actually as I am always loosing one among the
swarf...) -anyway, as I was saying: I have a piece of hardwood about an
inch and a half square (old chair leg) and just long enough when stood
vertically on the rear slideway to allow one of the chuck jaws to rest
on top in a horizontal position. I then turn the mandrel in the reverse
direction by giving the drive belt a tug.  If backgear is selected the
mechanical advantage is such that only a gentle pull on the belt frees
the chuck in a completely controlled way. Often, if the chuck is not too
firmly wedged I don't find it necessary even to engage backgear.
I thought everyone did it that way! 
--                    
Regards,              **************************************************
David Hoskin          The business of finding fault is very easy: that
East Yorkshire, UK    of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
                      **************************************************


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make castings for lathe
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 14:26:41 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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Look at Green Sand Casting or Navy Foundry Manual from Lindsay Books 
to answer most of those questions.  The Charcoal Foundry answers some
of them.

Get the "Running a Lathe" book from Lindsay.  Either the South Bend book
or the alternate company book are good starters.  Also look for any good
school shop text.
John


On 15 May 1996, RDennett wrote:

> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased Dave Gingery's _Metal Lathe_ and I have several questions
> about some of the casting terminology.  Here are some:
> 
> What is a draft?
> What is green sand?
> What does it mean to ram?
> What does it mean to strike off?
> What is a molding board?
> What is a bottom board?
> What is a roll (as in double-roll)?
> What does it mean to rub in?
> What is the parting face of a pattern?
> What is a blank cope?
> What is a false cope?
> 
> I think I know what many of these terms mean but I want to know.  Are
> these these terms explained more thoroughly in _The Charcoal Foundry_? 
> (As well as the casting process)  If not, could someone tell me where I
> could find a book on metal casting for the beginner?
> 
> While we're at it, I don't really know anything about metal turning.  Can
> anyone recommend a rudimentary book on this subject?  The bookstore
> doesn't have _Lathe Work for Dummies_ <g>.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> Rob
> Robert Dennett
> email: rdennett@aol.com
> 
> 


From ama@marley.East.Sun.COM Thu May 23 14:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ama@marley.East.Sun.COM (Al Amaral - SunSoft PC Desktop Integration)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 16 May 1996 19:25:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
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In article <31969e49.274613685@news.islandnet.com> psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
>pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm) wrote:
>
>>I was told by the local welding supplier that the acetone(which holds the
>>acetylene) settles out of the foam inside the cylinder when it's laid on it's
>>side, and this has caused them to _explode_ just by being jostled around(like
>>in the back of a pickup). They also said that once a acet cylinder has been
>>laid on it's side, it _must_ be set upright for a time equal to the time it
>>was laid down before use, ie. if it's sideways for 4 hours, it has to be set
>>upright for 4 hours before using it. 
>
>This seems a perfect example of why you should always collect a range
>of opinions and then decide yourself - rather than taking some
>'expert's' advise.

I don't mean to flame you, but in this case your advice on safety issues seems 
equally dubious.

Collect a range of OPINIONS then DECIDE for YOURSELF?  I don't think that
it's wise to listen to ANYONE's __OPINION__ when it comes to whether they
THINK a tank of acetylene is going to blow your backside to kingdom come.
I also don't think that it's wise to DECIDE for YOURSELF...  What if you
DECIDE WRONG!  It's not like the acetylene is going to care what your
decision is...  It's going to do it's thing whether or not you and a hundred
other so called experts have DECIDED otherwise.

How about checking out the FACTS instead.  Call an acetylene manufacturer 
and ask to speak to a REAL expert on the subject.  The manufacturer will
know how to handle acetylene gas properly.

In the mean time it never hurts to err on the side of caution.

--Al Amaral--
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Al Amaral				  Al.Amaral@East.Sun.COM
"G'day, and welcome to All Things Delta.  If it's not Delta, IT'S CRAP!" 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From mettlewk@cris.com Thu May 23 14:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 17 May 1996 02:39:19 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
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Bunch of Pyromaniacs running  around.

Magnesium turns black when subjected to acid.

David Baggaley <baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca> wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?
>I have an old circular saw that seems unusually light for it's size and I'm
>curious what it's made of. 
>
>I know magnesium burns, but I'm not that curious.
>
>Dave 
>
>
>
>-- 
>Dave Baggaley
>Thunder Bay, Ontario
>mailto:baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca
>


-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone, 
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  mettlewk@cris.com    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From r.lee@windshadow.com Thu May 23 14:18:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news1.cle.ab.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp14.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:10:35 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <r.lee-1605961710350001@ppp14.nantucket.net>
References: <4naefq$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <4ndmsu$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com>

In article <4ndmsu$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
(Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:

> The GE model number was 5KC63AB494. Not surprisingly, no one
> has a modern cross-reference for it.
> 
> The basic stats are: 1725 RPM, 1/2 HP, NEMA frame number 66, 
> 115VAC, 1 phase, capacitor start/instant reverse. Frame 66 is
> "almost obsolete" now; Grainger doesn't list anything as small
> as 1/2 HP in that frame size.

before you do anything take the old motor to a good electric motor shop...
they made the 1955 Fairbanks-Morse pancake motor on my Bridgeport like new
for $80... it is amazing what a good shop can do with motors of this
vintage... where many that have been made in the last 10 years or so are
just junk when they 'burn out' the old stuff can be made to be like new
for a small fee...

Mine was done by 
New England Electric Motor service corp in Chelsea Mass 617-884-9200

but a look at the tom cat or a call to a local machine shop will find you
a good shop in your area...

~R


From bruce@intac.com Thu May 23 14:18:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bruce <bruce@intac.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: 15 May 1996 16:18:41 GMT
Organization: INTAC
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4nd051$8u@uucp.intac.com>
References: <4na1id$aav@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
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hhm@ihgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.) wrote:
>
>I'm interested in turning some wheels for my son's pinewood derby 
>car. So, I'm wondering if there is any kind of setup for a hobby
>lathe to allow me to use small, narrow collets.
SNIP
==================================================================

  I wonder how many millions of dollars and millions of hours have 
been spent by fathers trying to win this stupid race for their 
"sons". After going through this with my 2 boys for 5 years, I 
have seen and heard of the outrageous behavior of many fathers 
proving their "sons" cars are the best. I used to dread Januarys 
as my WIFE would hound me to "make them a winner". The best we 
ever did was fourth place overall. The other cars looked as if 
they came out of GM's model shop and very as finely tuned as a 
Rolex watch. It would amaze me as guys who were accountants, 
doctors, executives, would act as if their lives depended upon 
winning. It was rumored that one guy paid some professional model 
builder several hundred dollars to build his "son's" car, it 
certainly looked and performed like it. I know this guy could'nt 
nail two boards together and neither could his 9 year old. Also it 
was rumored that another guy lost a town council election because 
he was suspected of cheating in the Pinewood Derby. Thank god I 
don't have to go through this anymore. I wish they had a rule that 
the kids had to build their own cars without help from anyone.
Good luck anyway.

                                        Bruce <bruce@intac.com>



From keoliver@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: keoliver@ix.netcom.com(Kevin Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What the heck is this tool?>
Date: 17 May 1996 03:33:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4ngs2b$bsc@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4ncu9t$hf7@hpbs2500.boi.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dfw-tx9-24.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu May 16 10:33:31 PM CDT 1996

>From  the description, it sounds like an automatic watermelon peeler. 
<G>
-- 


The preceding was only a test of the usenet newsgroups system. 
Had this been an actual usenet posting, your computer 
screen would have been filled with interesting, useful  and
entertaining information from Kevin Oliver.
 
This was only a test.
_________________________________________________

Kevin E. Oliver
Primary Email: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com
Alternate Email: Koliver@cooper.usa.com

 PGP2.6 public key available



From john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:18:50 EDT 1996
Article: 28465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John G Wright <john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for machine screws smaller than 000?
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 21:49:17 +0100
Organization: none
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <Byd$gFANT5mxEw$J@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
References: <4codqv$5e5@usenet.rpi.edu> <4n43gq$d5@byatt.alaska.net>
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In article <4n43gq$d5@byatt.alaska.net>, Dick Morris
<rmorris@alaska.net> writes
>lswilfin@cat.rpi.edu (Lee S Wilfinger) wrote:
>
>>Folks,
>
>>      I was wondering if anyone knew anything about machine screws
>>smaller than 000. A project I'm considering would require screws
>>about 2/3 the diameter of a 000.
>
>Track down J.I. Morris (no connection to me). You should be able to
>find their address in the Thomas Register. They may have what you
>need. It's been a long time since I've seen their catalog but, as I
>remember, #2 was their biggest screw size.
>
>Dick Morris
>
>
In the UK the smaller sizes are measured in BA. 12 BA are readily
available and I use them in clock making . They have 0.0511" OD (1.40mm
clearance hole) and can be obtained in 1/2" length with cheese head from
Meadows and Passmore Ltd Phone 01892 662255 they have other larger sizes
available as well. Hope they are of help .

-- 
John G Wright


From rcook@BIX.com Thu May 23 14:18:50 EDT 1996
Article: 28466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!esiee.fr!sgigate.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What's in the bottom of the forge??
Date: 17 May 1996 07:13:34 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 19
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Guy Burnham wrote:
> I know this is a dumb question, but what goes in the bottom of a portable
> forge to keep the pan from burning through.  I bought an old Buffalo
> portable forge from an old gent last night. He though he bought it from
> the Sears catalog about '33 or so and never really got to use it much.
> It is a little (~20" dia.) farriers forge with a stamped metal pan,
> three metal legs that bolt together, and a small hand crank blower
> mounted to the rear. It has a little deflector shield on the back of
> the pan.  I know he didn't use it much because when we dumped the coal
> and dirt out of it, most of the original paper label was still intact,
> glued to the bottom of the pan. 
>
You can use a lot of things. I used to have one with the pan lined with
ordinary clay. A refractory material would work better.

These weren't high-ticket items and they weren't all that well designed.
However for most folks doing smithing these days they work pretty good.

--RC


From Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com Thu May 23 14:18:50 EDT 1996
Article: 28467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. Michael Thompson" <Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wire bender design
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:39:58 -0400
Organization: Nortel
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <319B848E.41FB@nt.com>
References: <4nea65$7a3@access2.digex.net>
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G. Mayner wrote:
> 
> I am looking for a plan for a with bender or the name of some firm that
> sells them.

Micro Mark sells a wire bender for wire up to 1/8 inch thick; page 59 of 
the Spring 1996 catalog.

Micro Mark
340 Snyder Avenue
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922-1595

800-225-1066

JMT


From vanhecke@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 17 May 1996 04:00:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4ngtkd$dct@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4naefq$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <4ndmsu$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu May 16 11:00:13 PM CDT 1996

>The basic stats are: 1725 RPM, 1/2 HP, NEMA frame number 66, 
>115VAC, 1 phase, capacitor start/instant reverse. Frame 66 is
>"almost obsolete" now; Grainger doesn't list anything as small
>as 1/2 HP in that frame size.
>
>I can go larger; that's no problem, but it's expensive ($225 or more).
>What I'd like to find is an old motor that's got the right specs.
>
>Anyone have ideas on where to look? Thanks.

Chris, Do you really need a new motor, or do you just need to fix the
one you have?  There should be a motor shop somewhere close and I can't
imagine it costing over $100 for a fill rewind.

--Art


From douglas@praxis.net Thu May 23 14:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: douglas@praxis.net (Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] How hot can an air-propane torch be ?
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 23:23:57 GMT
Organization: DOUGLAS - Custom Goldsmith
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4ndp1c$69b@news.pig.net>
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jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins) wrote:

>:In article <4n9q5b$ils@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:

>:> Is there any theoretical limit on the flame temperature of a
>:> propane-air torch ? And any practical ?
>:...
>:> Putting a Pt/PtRh10 thermocouple in the hottest part usually yields
>:> 1400-1500 degrees C.
>:> Any other experiences ?
>:> Klaas
>:The flame radiates a lot of heat to its surroundings unless it is in a hot
>:tube.  
>:In practice, my propane torch will barely melt a small bead of copper on
>:the end of a wire (conduction loss path).  
>:If the bead of molten copper falls into a can of water, it just sits on
>:the bottom glowing within a shiny steam bubble.  Wear serious protection
>:if you try this sort of thing.


I was looking at an air-propane torch a while back (I've used one for years).
The manf. claimed 2900 F.

Have not tested mine for temp, but I routinely melt 3 oz. of silver with it. 

Respectfully,

Douglas

Amulets, Talismans and Metaphysical Jewels

          http://galaxymall.com/shops/douglas.html



From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 28470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!news.ossi.com!pagesat.net!jump.net!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.magg.net!news
From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gingery casting definitions
Date: 17 May 1996 07:35:58 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
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To: rdennett@aol.com

Without responding to the request for definitions (I'm a newbie myself 
and others can do so far better), let me recommend the Green Sand Casting 
Video (Lindsay has it as well as the books).  I got the Gingery foundry 
books, the one on molding and casting by Bill Cannon and a couple of 
other things and didn't really understand what was being said until I saw 
the video.  For $30.00 or so, it's steep, but after seeing it I am now 
confident that if I can weld aluminum and rebuild engines, I can sure do 
this.  It really demystified the whole process, and it's fun to see who 
this weird Dave Gingery fellow is in person.  Kind of an enjoyable 
eccentric.

As an aside to all of you out there who have contributed to this site for 
a couple of years: Thanks!  After downloading and printing a few 
megabytes of past years (don't try this: I must have three dozen copies 
of the FAQ), I've learned more than in the six or seven metalworking 
books I bought from Lindsay's (which were pretty good).  Betcha never 
knew you were creating a mini-tutorial for posterity, but as a 
posterity, I'm grateful. Now I just need to do it.
We'll see if a rank beginner can cast aluminum and then machine 
geared-beltdrive pulleys on a cheap Chinese lathe/mill combo (why start 
small? a magnificent failure is so much more impressive!)



From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!news.ossi.com!pagesat.net!jump.net!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.magg.net!news
From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gingery casting definitions
Date: 17 May 1996 07:36:30 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
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To: rdennett@aol.com

Without responding to the request for definitions (I'm a newbie myself 
and others can do so far better), let me recommend the Green Sand Casting 
Video (Lindsay has it as well as the books).  I got the Gingery foundry 
books, the one on molding and casting by Bill Cannon and a couple of 
other things and didn't really understand what was being said until I saw 
the video.  For $30.00 or so, it's steep, but after seeing it I am now 
confident that if I can weld aluminum and rebuild engines, I can sure do 
this.  It really demystified the whole process, and it's fun to see who 
this weird Dave Gingery fellow is in person.  Kind of an enjoyable 
eccentric.

As an aside to all of you out there who have contributed to this site for 
a couple of years: Thanks!  After downloading and printing a few 
megabytes of past years (don't try this: I must have three dozen copies 
of the FAQ), I've learned more than in the six or seven metalworking 
books I bought from Lindsay's (which were pretty good).  Betcha never 
knew you were creating a mini-tutorial for posterity, but as a 
posterity, I'm grateful. Now I just need to do it.
We'll see if a rank beginner can cast aluminum and then machine 
geared-beltdrive pulleys on a cheap Chinese lathe/mill combo (why start 
small? a magnificent failure is so much more impressive!)



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hpbs2500.boi.hp.com!hpax!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 16 May 1996 18:15:31 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4nfrc3$ksr@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <4n512h$8lk@pollux.cmc.doe.ca>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

David Baggaley (baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca) wrote:
: Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?

: I know magnesium burns, but I'm not that curious.

That's the quick and easy test.  Take a small sliver off the metal and lay
a torch on it.  If it melts and balls up with no further ado, you probably
have an aluminum alloy.  If it starts to burn, it's magnesium.  Use a
*small* sliver for the least amount of drama.

Pete Brooks




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 28473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole Saw Clogging
Date: 17 May 1996 12:48:54 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4nhsjm$jg3@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Wot he said...drill a "drain hole" for the chips somewhere along
the cut.  It helps a lot.  Maybe use some lubricant stuff to keep
the chips from welding to the saw teeth, if they have a tendancy
to do that.



From pmr0811@tamu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pmr0811@tamu.edu (Patrick M. Riggs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: anodizing aluminum
Date: 17 May 1996 04:23:30 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
Lines: 135
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Summary: simple aluminum anodizing
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


A long time ago, I came to this newsgroup asking for answers on how to 
anodize aluminum, and nobody really had advice.  Since then, of course, 
I've seen lots of suggestions.  In any case, at that point I promised to 
post if I had any results, and never posted except to mention my 
success.  Well, while there are probably better methods out there, this 
is what worked for me, and has continued to work for me.  I hope this is 
helpful.  BTW, it has been a while, and Sandoz chemical is now called 
Clarion corp.  Their proprietary anodal ms-1 is basically a weak nickel 
acetate solution.  As to where to get sulphuric acid, I wouldn't know, 
since I work at a university where such things are readily available.

I hope this helps, and thanks to those who gave me advice along the way.

Oh yeah, and be careful . . . sulphuric acid is dangerous (I have "bad 
lab practice" reminders in more than one pair of shorts -- not that I 
recommend wearing shorts in the lab . . .) and eats an awful lot of 
otherwise sturdy materials.  Also, beware of the high currents.  I, of 
course, take no responsibility for anything (and that seems to be my 
problem in general).


Hard anodizing:

Sulfuric acid at 13% by volume, at a temperature of 3 degrees C.  Note 
that the temperature is nnot overly important, so long as it is close.  
The current density should be ~15 amps/square foot.  The aluminum piece 
should stay in the bath for at least 2 hours, with four hours being optimum.

As an alternative to hard anodization, leave all conditions the same 
except for the temperature, which should be 70-75 degrees C.  The 
difference in the two procedures is the thickness and quality of the 
anodic layer.  Hard anodization leave the material more absorptive.

The cathode, or negative lead, should be lead, with the anode to cathode 
proportion being about 1:1.

For dyeing the object, there are two options:


Rit dye:

Rit is a standard wool dye, which can be purchased at any grocery store.  
This method is both inexpensive and offers a wide variety of colors.  The 
drawbacks are that Rit, an organic dye, is not light fast, and will fade 
in direct sunlight.

With Rit, simply prepare a bath of about 50ml/litre at about 70 degrees 
celsius.  One hour minimum is required, with the preferable duration 
matching the anodization time.

Black MLW:

Black MLW can be purchased from Sandoz Chemical (my contact was Ron 
Rupple (214)423-1674, the sales rep for texas.  the company is based at 
(704)331-7000.)  The price is between $15/lb and $60/lb (don't have an 
exact quote, but this is the range of prices for all of their black 
dyes).  Small test quantities can be obtained.  

Black MLW is favorable because it is a) light fast in the visible (being 
inorganic), and b) a rather flat black.  It's drawbacks are expense
(a minimum order is 5 lbs, which is an awful lot of dye), and requires
special working procedures (the dust is hazardous to the lungs).

Black MLW is, however, simpler, and more convenient, to use.  The 
temperature should be between 51 and 60 degrees C.  The duration being 
5-10 minutes depending on quality of blackness desired.  The 
concentration (keep this in mind before ordering 5+ pounds) is 10 
grams/litre.

Sealing:

The sealing process hydrates the porous anodic layer, closing it, 
protecting it, and sealing in the dye.  For most applications, sealing is 
desirable.

Supposedly, this process can be done with boiling water, but I've only 
managed the following.

1)  Simply leave the piece in the dye bath, and boil the dye bath for one 
hour.  This will require removal of the excess dye afterwards and is not 
generally recommended.

2) 2% anodal MS-1 (again from sandoz chemical (though, nickel acetate 
should work as a substitute).  The temperature of the bath should be 
between 70 and 87 degrees C, with a duration of 5-20 minutes (depending 
on porosity and thickness of coating . . . longer never hurts).

Note that after each step, the object should be rinsed with deionized 
water to avoid contamination.  I did this all with distilled water, 
though deionized water should still work.

Important information about the piece.  The purity of the aluminum is 
important.  The higher the silicon content, the less likely the process 
is too work.  Also, the product should be newly machined (for a shinier, 
more professional finish) or sandblasted (for a flatter, though less 
even, finish).  All oil, dirt, glass beads, etc, must be removed prior to 
the anodization process.  This can be done by thorough cleaning with 
acetone and methonal (soap is dangerous, since phosphates in the solution 
tend to negate the anodization process).  For better cleaning, immerse 
the part in 1 tsp/200 litres NaOH (be careful).  For small parts this is 
undesirable, since the NaOH actually removes aluminum.  After this bath, 
a smutty brown finish is obtained.  To remove, rinse the part, and soak 
in a 10% nitric acid solution until a satin finish is obtained.

Copper anodization:

While aluminum anodization is typically clear (depending on the alloy and 
the process used (there are various other processes using different 
acids, the most common being chromic and oxalic), copper, at least via 
this process, anodizes black.

The desired voltage is 6 volts across the circuit.  The bath should be 
120 grams/ litre of NaOH.  The temperature MUST be between 82 and 99 
degrees C or the process will not even begin.  The duration of the 
anodization process is 30 seconds to 3 minutes, depending again on the 
quality of black desired . . . more time, flatter black.  The cathode is 
Steel in a 1:1 ratio.  Again the piece must be dirt/ grease free.

This process will also work for brass, though it is shinier.  Also, 
different colors may appear under the black, depending on the brass.

For both of these metals, remember that they oxidize quickly in air 
(which is not the same as the anodized layer . . . though in aluminum, 
this layer is also protective).  Therefore, they should be anodized as 
soon as possible after machining and preparing.

--
drip, drip, drip . . .
To master the ancient and mysterious art of scrying is to hold the power to
pierce your own veil of illusion, viewing your soul unbidden.

				submitted humbly,
				Patrick Riggs



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Tooth repair
Message-ID: <1996May17.101508.22377@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 10:15:08 GMT
Lines: 26


I learned to do this years ago, as a standard clock makers & machinery 
repair method.
First, file or mill a slot where the broken tooth was. Next, file, or 
mill, a dovetail to suit.  Now for the new tooth.  Make a male dovetail 
on the end of some bar, that is a light force fit in the female dovetail.
Press in the new tooth blank, with a little paste solder smeared on the 
mating surfaces. These days you could use locktite. If you use solder, 
heat the whole gear until it flows.
To shape the tooth, I make a special cutter from a pice of annealed file 
( Never throw out an old, worn one ).  Machine a disk, a bit wider than 
you need, and profile it to a tight fit in the space between two good teeth.
machine away half the profile.   Now , file it to a snail shape with one 
cutting edge, and heat treat.
You now have a half tooth cutter. Rub the cutting edge on a sharpening 
stone, followed by an oil stone.

Mount her up, and cut half the tooth profile, turn the gear around being 
careful to check your setup, and cut the other side.

The result is a very strong repair
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Thu May 23 14:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 28476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: How do you remove the chuck from lathe?
Message-ID: <1996May17.095334.22022@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <4n7b4i$ahc@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4mv0u9$16m4@serra.unipi.it>
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:53:34 GMT
Lines: 48


The information given below is good, if you have a large lathe with heavy 
chucks, and large keys.

With light lathes like a Myford, you could break the key for the 4 jaw chuck,
as it is quite small, and not up to the stress.  Due to the small size of 
some chucks, a piece of wood will break under moderate force, because you 
can't get a big enough piece between the jaws.  That's why I use a bronze 
bar.  The bar is also used to " Bif " out the morse tapers, no hammer, 
just the inertia of a sharp push on the bar.



In a previous article, wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com (Steve Wellcome) says:

>First, if you are having a great deal of difficulty getting a
>chuck to unscrew, you may want to see if you can find the cause.
>THOROUGHLY clean the screw thread in the back of the chuck to
>be sure there are no chips, and be sure there are no chips on
>the spindle thread.
>
>Then, when screwing on the chuck, do so gently.  Don't wind it
>on so it bottoms out with a "thunk."
>
>Typically, I find that I can unscrew my lathe chucks by putting
>the lathe in back gear without pulling the bull gear pin (to 
>lock the spindle), then putting the chuck key in a hole and
>pulling on it.  If it takes more than a moderate tug, it generally
>means there's a chip jammed in the screw thread that I neglected
>to clean out before putting on the chuck.
>
>In that case I've used a strap wrench, as you have.
>
>One can also clamp a longish bar crosswise in the chuck jaws and
>use is as a lever.
>
>A last-distch-effort approach, suggested by Guy Lautard in one 
>of his "Bedside Reader" books, is to start the lathe in slowest 
>back gear, then slip a block of wood between the lathe bed and 
>a chuck jaw as the jaw comes around.  
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From TBank@ccmhost.ddre.dla.mil Thu May 23 14:18:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Thomas R. Bank" <TBank@ccmhost.ddre.dla.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTF: brass/bronze color solder
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:02:12 -0700
Organization: Prentice Centre, University of Queensland
Lines: 17
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Roll Sullivan wrote:
> 
> Any one know ehere to find solder that has a brass
> or bronze sort of color?
> 
> thanks for any replies

I think jewelers use a product called plum or plumb solder on gold rings.
I don't know what the cost is.  I have considered getting some for 
several future projects.  Look for a jeweler's supply company in the 
nearest big city yellow pages or ask a local jeweler (not a chain store). 
Try to find one that claims to be a manufacturing jeweler.  If you come 
up with any other alternatives I'd be interested.

Good Luck

Tom


From psh@islandnet.com Thu May 23 14:18:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 03:26:56 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net> wrote:
>Anyone else with this packrat problem?

My big goal in life is to own an aicraft hangar or some such large
place to store all the junk I would like to collect. Currently space
is limited and it's a real gut-wrencher trying to decide what to keep
and what to chuck. And as always, the stuff you chuck is the stuff you
can use next week :).
Jens



From wilfred@tcp.co.uk Thu May 23 14:18:54 EDT 1996
Article: 28479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wilfred@tcp.co.uk (Bill Isbell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Case Hardening
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 18:04:42 GMT
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Many years ago I remember making a nail punch in my metalwork class.
The punch was case hardened using a material called "Kasenit", if my
memory from 50 years ago serves me correctly.   Does anyone know
whether this material can still be obtained in the UK, please.
--
Bill Isbell, Southampton, England
wilfred@tcp.co.uk



From vanhecke@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vanhecke@ix.netcom.com(Arthur A. Van Hecke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Oxy-acetylene1/7th Rule"??
Date: 17 May 1996 04:15:48 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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>
>How about checking out the FACTS instead.  Call an acetylene
manufacturer 
>and ask to speak to a REAL expert on the subject.  The manufacturer
will
>know how to handle acetylene gas properly.
>
Al, I am not flaming, but there aren't any acetelene "manufacturers";
acetelene gas is generated from calcium carbide and water (usually) in
an acetelene generator.  You really can't ship acetelene around in
anything except bottles, but you're right, call the supplier (like
Airco's main office or Linde) or call the local guy and see who fills
his bottles).

--Art


From lewy1@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 17 May 1996 04:25:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <4mvl69$qpe@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4n13eh$jm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960513083551.9152A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <4nbq5l$cqs@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> <wwebster-1505960916520001@47.116.15.87>
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In <wwebster-1505960916520001@47.116.15.87> wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill
Webster) writes: 
>
>In article <4nbq5l$cqs@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>,
>lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis) wrote:
>
>>     Just to add to this 7075 thing. I've heard but have never tested
>> the probability that 7075 is notch senitive,
>
>For those who don't know (like me), what is notch sensitive?
>
>Interesting following this thread.
>
>For model airplane engines, we find that 7075 is used for connecting
rods
>and for the cylinder head which holds the glow plug.  I would expect
the
>rod stays at a resonable temperature since it is always getting a
spray of
>fuel on it.  The cyclinder head is definitely HOT!  Seems we measured
this
>once, and it was around 290-300F.
>
>regards.
>
>-- 
>Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


By notch sensitive I mean if you scratch it it will be stressed in that
scratch and will likely propagate and seperate at the scratch.


Jim


From philjack@tribeca.ios.com Thu May 23 14:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: philjack <philjack@tribeca.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q- How to Knurl a radius???
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:35:23 -0500
Organization: Manhattan Custom Tackle Ltd.
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Does anyone here know how to knurl a radiused workpiece? Do I have to 
have a special knurl made, or are they available?
Thanks in Advance,
-- 
Phil Koenig
Manhattan Custom Tackle Ltd.
http://fishdoc.com./
"I'm the boss,so WHATEVER I say is OK"


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 28483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 17 May 1996 12:59:28 GMT
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To: wwebster@nortel.ca

Re: notch sensitive:

I don't have the details at hand and my memory may be faulty
on this one, but I think the standard way of measuring this
is called the "Iznod Notch Test" or something like that.  (I"m
not sure at all about that spelling!)

A notch of specified shape and size is cut in the side of a test 
sample of some standard dimensions.  One end of the sample is
clamped in a testing machine, then a swinging weight on an arm is 
raised up and released so it whallops the top of the sample.  The
resistance of the sample to fracture at the notch determines its
"notch sensitivity."  (I'm not sure that's the official term for
it, but basically it's measuring the resistance to crack 
propagation and fracture.)

Maybe somebody who's taken Strengh of Materials more recently
than 30 years ago can provide more accurate detail.




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make castings for lathe
Date: 17 May 1996 16:21:39 GMT
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To: rdennett@aol.com


Get thyself a copy of the Lindsay catalog and see what he has for
casting books.  I would expect (but don't know for sure) that
Gingery's "Charcoal Foundry" would cover the basic terminology.

A couple of good lathe books:  South Bend's "How To Run A Lathe,"
also available from Lindsay Publications, and "The Amateur's Lathe,"
by L.H. Sparey, a British book available from TEE Publishing in
England and some domestic sources.  (Try Coles', Saturated Steam,
Power Model Supply, etc.)

You might also check the FAQ for this newsgroup; I haven't looked
at it in a while, but some casting information is probably in there.
It at least has the names/addresses of the suppliers I mentioned.
Try:

http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From rogerm@fc.hp.com Thu May 23 14:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tooth repair
Date: 17 May 1996 14:56:55 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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I used a similar process to fix a gear for a neighbor of mine who
shelled out the transmission in his John Deer 1010 crawler loader.
There were 2 teeth broken out of the low gear. I ended up cutting
a Dovetail joint where the teeth were broken and made a new piece
to fit into the dovetail slot. I made a template and ground the
new teeth to shape after putting the piece back into the gear and
using nickel silver rod and a torch to fix it in place. After
the operation was done, I re-heat treated the gear and we put
the transmission back together again. It has been running fine now
for over 5 years.
				Roger Mitchell
				Vp and Master Mechanic
				Ft. Collins Municipal Railway



From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Thu May 23 14:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: disposable cylinders?
Date: 17 May 1996 16:54:01 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) wrote:
> Well, what I do is press down the valve until the
> cylinder is totally empty, then poke a hole in it
> with a nail.  Or it might be possible to unscrew
> the relief valve or whatever it is, which might be
> a safer way to guarantee it can't explode.

Both the valve and the relief valve can be unscrewed with a tool used to 
remove tire valve cores.

I have a bunche of these around because they look too useful to throw 
out, but I haven't found a use good for any yet, other than clanging them 
like a bell.  Has anyone else found a use for these?

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 28487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:22:39 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960517111645.3744Q-100000@reliant>
References: <4ms7q8$4r5@agate.berkeley.edu> <4nbogc$l39@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4neqkg$mtl@agate.berkeley.edu> <4nhc6p$joo@dopey.magg.net> <319c52ec.371800616@news.islandnet.com>
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I have noticed that people with this packrat tendency, and I am one,
should build a new barn every year or two to store their acquisitions
until they are needed.  My wife insists that I should burn down last
year's barn whenever I build a new one!  Of course I caught her out a
while ago.  She had been after me to throw away some of this junk.  
I was looking at a brass standoff guide that guided the rod on a 
toilet valve so that it lines up when the toilet flushes.  It had been
in the corner of the shop for 8 or 9 years without a need arising.
I compromised with her and, while she watched, threw that standoff into
the trash.  
Two hours later, she complained to me that the toilet in the upstairs
bathroom was running continuously and wasting water.  I went up to look
at it, and LO and BEHOLD, the brass standoff with the guide for the
rod on the flush valve had BROKEN.  This caused the valve to misalign
and leak after a flush.  I gleefully pointed out to her that we had
JUST thrown one of those away!  If she would go down and rummage through
the trash and find that little piece we had declared redundant I could
repair her toilet in no time!  
It is so nice to be proven right once in a while! :-)
John


On Fri, 17 May 1996, Jens wrote:

> Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net> wrote:
> >Anyone else with this packrat problem?
> 
> My big goal in life is to own an aicraft hangar or some such large
> place to store all the junk I would like to collect. Currently space
> is limited and it's a real gut-wrencher trying to decide what to keep
> and what to chuck. And as always, the stuff you chuck is the stuff you
> can use next week :).
> Jens
> 
> 
> 


From john@siu.edu Thu May 23 14:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tooth repair
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:25:59 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960517112401.3744R-100000@reliant>
References: <1996May17.101508.22377@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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In-Reply-To: <1996May17.101508.22377@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> 

Right Steve,  that is how you make a "partial plate" for a gear tooth!
It works well.  The only question is, is it worth while or can you just
order a replacement gear from Bosten Gear for less time and effort.  I
am the first to admit that sometimes you CANNOT and a fix like this is
the only reasonable way to restore a aged damaged gear.  If that is the
case, then this is the way to do it.
John


On Fri, 17 May 1996, Steve Rayner wrote:

> 
> I learned to do this years ago, as a standard clock makers & machinery 
> repair method.
> First, file or mill a slot where the broken tooth was. Next, file, or 
> mill, a dovetail to suit.  Now for the new tooth.  Make a male dovetail 
> on the end of some bar, that is a light force fit in the female dovetail.
> Press in the new tooth blank, with a little paste solder smeared on the 
> mating surfaces. These days you could use locktite. If you use solder, 
> heat the whole gear until it flows.
> To shape the tooth, I make a special cutter from a pice of annealed file 
> ( Never throw out an old, worn one ).  Machine a disk, a bit wider than 
> you need, and profile it to a tight fit in the space between two good teeth.
> machine away half the profile.   Now , file it to a snail shape with one 
> cutting edge, and heat treat.
> You now have a half tooth cutter. Rub the cutting edge on a sharpening 
> stone, followed by an oil stone.
> 
> Mount her up, and cut half the tooth profile, turn the gear around being 
> careful to check your setup, and cut the other side.
> 
> The result is a very strong repair
> -- 
> ************************************************************************
>      MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
> ************************************************************************
> 
> 
> 


From frank@newshost.dsea.com Thu May 23 14:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Brazing without acetelene questions
Date: 17 May 1996 09:27:39 -0700
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America, Inc.
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I have been wanting to do some brazing for quite an while, and
following the thread on the dangers of acetelene I have decided to try
NOT using it.  I followed up on notes from some of the posters here and
have decided to try to use one of the relatives of propane.

I have a Victor propane Turbo Torch.  A call to Victor confirmed 
that other related gases can be used.  Although it is possible
to do the brazing I want with propane, it takes WAY too long.  More
heat is needed. ( Although not perfect for brazing, this torch is 
GREAT for sweating copper pipe, and cheap to run.  )

Most of my local gas companies had no idea what alternate gases were,
or why anybody would want to use them.  ( And I am not far out of LA --
what do people do on the "sticks"? )  One place explained how MAPP was
a trademark and that similar gases were in common use.  The place said
that "No robotic cutting is done with acetelene any more, it is all
done with kimcane".  (The spelling could be much different, like
"chemkine", or "camcine", the guy was hard to understand.)

I bought a 5 lb propane cylinder and plan to get it filled with this
stuff next week.  My question is, can 1/8" stock be brazed with a Turbo
Torch ( I think the tip is #8, about as big across as my thumb, and
loud enough to require ear plugs ) and MAPP-like gas?  I have aquired a
pile of 1" * 4" channel rolled out of 1/8" sheet stock, and it would
make excellent benches, tables, shelves, etc.  Also, I'd like to be
able to braze some of the stack of nickle-plated 1" square tube I
recently got.  Does anybody out there have practical experience with a
similar setup and similar task?  Just how far can one go?  


-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From shockey@primenet.com Thu May 23 14:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 28490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!world1.bawave.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!bofh.dot!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip189.boi.primenet.com!shockey
From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 17 May 1996 07:30:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 15
Sender: root@primenet.com
Message-ID: <shockey.473.024DC218@primenet.com>
References: <4n512h$8lk@pollux.cmc.doe.ca> <4ngosn$a1l@tribune.concentric.net>
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In article <4ngosn$a1l@tribune.concentric.net> Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com> writes:

>Bunch of Pyromaniacs running  around.

You say that like it's a bad thing!?  <g>

>Magnesium turns black when subjected to acid.

I've never used this method. Is muriatic of sufficient 
strength to give a clear indication? 

Thanks,


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From cwall@swri.edu Thu May 23 14:18:58 EDT 1996
Article: 28491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 16 May 1996 18:02:38 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
Lines: 39
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4nfqjv$6qr@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
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In article <shockey.468.02359E2D@primenet.com>, shockey@primenet.com says...
>
>>David Baggaley <baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca> asks
>
>>>Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?
>>>I have an old circular saw that seems unusually light for it's size and I'm
>>>curious what it's made of.
>
>If you can touch it with an abrasive wheel, grinder, sander, 
>cutoff or whatever, aluminum should show no sparking while 
>magnesium should show a green spark. 
>
>Do NOT grind up a big pile of magnesium dust to try for a 
>big spark. Just a little touch will do.






   Another method is to cut a shaving with a sharp pocket 
   knife; aluminum will give a curled shaving, and magnesium
   will give a bunch of chips. (It's far less ductile.)

   What *I* need, if anyone can help, is a quick method for
   I.D.ing the aluminum alloy one has.  I need to be able to
   identify 2024 and 6061, or at least distinguish these from
   architectural alloys. 


   Craig Wall






.



From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Thu May 23 14:18:58 EDT 1996
Article: 28492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!winternet.com!n1ott.istar!n3ott.istar!istar.net!torn!kone!news.ccs.queensu.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 12:04:35 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 44
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1605961204350001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <1996May14.052956.27664@ole.cdac.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <1996May14.052956.27664@ole.cdac.com>, grant@cdac.com (Grant
Erwin) wrote:


> I have never done a lot of boring, and what I have done I've
> just done with my old 10-way SB toolpost and a boring bar.
> But I have this project, and now there's this deal, so maybe
> it's time. 
> 
> Anyone who has been to this point and beyond and wants to
> add anything, feel free. I simply don't have the skill to
> make a good one, and I don't really know if a cheap one will
> work. I have learned that really inexpensive tools sometimes
> make things enough harder to do that for all intents and 
> purposes they become impractical. And I don't know if a
> boring head would be stable enough mounted in a tailstock 
> taper.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Grant Erwin                     

Grant

Are the more expensive ones boring and FACING heads. This can add
considerably to the cost. 

Boring heads are meant to be used in a milling machine. You already own a
great one that will face and power feed (your lathe with a boring bar).
Are you sure you need to spend the money?

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Thu May 23 14:18:58 EDT 1996
Article: 28493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Message-ID: <1996May16.174723.2433@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov>
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Sure - that's how you test it.  File a tiny bit off a corner somewhere.
>You don't need more than a few grains.  Light a propane torch, and sprinkle
>the file dust into the flame.  If you see tiny but brilliant blue-white
>sparkles flash in the flame, it is a flammable metal, ie. Mg or Ti.
>Hmmm.. I wonder how safe it is to make power tools (with brush-type motors,
>even!) with Magnesium housings.  A little short in the motor could be a
>real experience.  I've seen a few VW microbuses light up, and it is
>spectacular - like a 4th of July display when the firemen put it out.
>I don't know whether it is the engine block or the transaxle that is >Mg, but one of them clearly is!

PortaCable recently (last 2 years ?) introduced a line of circular saws whose housing is made of magnesium . The ads point out how l=
ight these saws are.  Evidently PC feels this is a safe practice ?  I don't know about VW microbuses, but I do recall that the Porsc=
he 6 cylinder engine began as an aluminum casting (I am talking the main crankcase housing) then changed over to a magnesium casting=
 to save weight in the late sixties.  They changed back to aluminum after only a year or two as I recall because the cost to produce=
 the mag castings was higher and there was a durability or repair difficulty associated with the mag - I believe that the mag had a =
tendancy to exhibit dimensional instability so that round holes became ovals.  It was reported that once this metal movement occured=
, the crankcases could be remachined and would then be dimensional stable indefinately.

My Dad was a machinist and would bring home mag chips for us to play with.  Some were produced with cutting tools with a chip breake=
r (producing chips of mag) and some without a chip breaker (prducing long curling "strings" of mag up to about 2 feet in length.  Ha=
ving first hand experience with burning mag, I have quite a respect for machinists who are able to reliably and safely machine this =
stuff.

Roger



From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Thu May 23 14:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!nntp1.jpl.nasa.gov!llyene!news
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Message-ID: <1996May16.173832.2154@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov>
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Sure - that's how you test it.  File a tiny bit off a corner somewhere.
>You don't need more than a few grains.  Light a propane torch, and sprinkle
>the file dust into the flame.  If you see tiny but brilliant blue-white
>sparkles flash in the flame, it is a flammable metal, ie. Mg or Ti.
>Hmmm.. I wonder how safe it is to make power tools (with brush-type motors,
>even!) with Magnesium housings.  A little short in the motor could be a
>real experience.  I've seen a few VW microbuses light up, and it is
>spectacular - like a 4th of July display when the firemen put it out.
>I don't know whether it is the engine block or the transaxle that is >Mg, but one of them clearly is!

PortaCable recently (last 2 years ?) introduced a line of circular saws whose housing is made of magnesium . The ads point out how l=
ight these saws are.  Evidently PC feels this is a safe practice ?  I don't know about VW microbuses, but I do recall that the Porsc=
he 6 cylinder engine began as an aluminum casting (I am talking the main crankcase housing) then changed over to a magnesium casting=
 to save weight in the late sixties.  They changed back to aluminum after only a year or two as I recall because the cost to produce=
 the mag castings was higher and there was a durability or repair difficulty associated with the mag - I believe that the mag had a =
tendancy to exhibit dimensional instability so that round holes became ovals.  It was reported that once this metal movement occured=
, the crankcases could be remachined and would then be dimensional stable indefinately.

My Dad was a machinist and would bring home mag chips for us to play with.  Some were produced with cutting tools with a chip breake=
r (producing chips of mag) and some without a chip breaker (prducing long curling "strings" of mag up to about 2 feet in length.  Ha=
ving first hand experience with burning mag, I have quite a respect for machinists who are able to reliably and safely machine this =
stuff.

Roger



From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Thu May 23 14:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Distribution: world
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hole Saw Clogging
From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (Raymond Frye)
Message-ID: <6.20749.1453@spacebbs.com>
References: <4nb8qr$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:28:00 -0800
Organization: Space BBS - 15 node PCBoard - FTP/TELNET/GOPHER - (415-323-4193)
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References: <4nb8qr$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com> 

Ed Kingsly wrote:
EE> Does anyone have a solution to the problem of *chips clogging the
EE> groove*, when you're trying to cut a hole in metal or plastic with a
EE> large diameter hole saw?
<snip>
EE> Is there a way to modify the saw (maybe with slots to bring the
EE> chips up out..<snip>

EE> I've even tried cutting a 3" hole in a piece of 5/8" Aluminum plate,
<snip>
EE> it was a *very* long, nasty, noisey and tedious job.
--------

You might visit your local machine tool vendor and ask about boring
cutters (names like HoleHog, RotoBroach,...). They look a bit
like a shell reamer and cut leaving a center slug. The good news is no
centerdrill is required and interrupted cuts still come out clean. Bad
news is it costs more and is not a hand drill operation.

If you go the whole route and get a gear reduction mag drill set-up it's
easy to spend over $2k. But with that we can cut a precise  1 5/8" hole
in 2" thick 304 SST in under 20 minutes including set-up. The cut takes
about 2 minutes because we like a smooth cut. With a lathe or mill you
just need the cutter.

For our application we follow up with a disk of sandpaper on a stepped
mandrel to get a finish for an O-ring face seal then switch to a stepped
plate with 4 drill bushings that bolts in place for drilling holes to
tap for M6 screws. We end up with a NW40 port in under 2 hours anywhere
we can rig the mag drill. On a side note I was able to punch my Ford
truck bumper to 1" during a 1/2 hour lunch including clean-up.

Ray

To save mail: The mag drill is attached to mild steel rigged in place or
              rigged of a forklift to drill 304 SST.

 * RM 1.3 02229 * Save Skippy!


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help us solve the mysteries of this old lathe...
Date: 14 May 1996 23:04:54 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4nb3im$qd8@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com

[I wasn't able to respond to the mailing address in your header - 
jrro@watson.ibm.com comes back as "user unknown"]

        The 3/8-16 hole on the left-hand side of the headstock (between the
        boss for the spindle and the boss for the back-gear shaft) is the mounting
        point for a lever-acting collett closer. 

Far out! I have most of a handwheel closer, and am planning to use that. 
What goes into the hole, if anything, when there's no lever closer? Is
it left open or filled with a bolt? (It certainly shouldn't be filled with
oil, as mine was...) 

Thank you *very* much! (Any ideas about the holes on the bed under the
headstock? Motor control?)


From Wayne@hom.net Thu May 23 14:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 28497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Wayne@hom.net (Wayne Dixon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MISC. TOOLS
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:37:26 GMT
Organization: Homenet Communications, Inc
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24  IN.  VERNIER CALIPERS 
(SCHERR-TUMICO)  MODEL#16-0211 
1 SET LEFT UNUSED..........................................$160.00

0-1 IN. MICROMETERS 
(SCHERR-TUMICO)UNUSED............................$15.00

0-6 IN. DEPTH MICROMETERS
(UNUSED )(SCHERR-TUMICO).........................$50.00 

0-12 IN. DEPTH MICROMETER
(UNUSED)(SCHERR-TUMICO)...........................$80.00 

25 PC RADIUS GAGE SETS  STARRETT
1 SET LEFT UNUSED............................................$50.00

CHATILLON DIAL PUSH-PULL GAUGES 
MODEL # DPP
(USED) GOOD CONDITION.................................$40.00

ENERPAC HYDRAULIC CYCLINDERS
MODEL # RCH-202
GOOD CONDITION
1
UNUSED.............................................................$250..00
2
USED...................................................................$100..00




From hayesp@delphi.com Thu May 23 14:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver Solder
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 21:23:09 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <RfEPh-F.hayesp@delphi.com>
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John M. VerBurg <jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu> writes:
 
>Edk4 (edk4@aol.com) wrote:
>: My question is simple (the answer, probably not). How can I determine the
>: properties of the solder, eg., the composition, melting temperature and
>: type of flux required?
 
hello again Ed,
If you solder a copper pipe with it, and it has a copper tinge to the silver
itself it is a low-silver alloy. The 95% (expensive) stuff will be BRIGHT
silver!
paul


From hayesp@delphi.com Thu May 23 14:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic Induction Heat Treating Info
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 21:28:24 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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X-To: Kevin Coe <Kevin@Tritechnet.com>

I have in the past paid ""big bucks" to get parts "induction
hardened" per my customers specification. I ran them all the
way from Southern NH to Hartfort CT, only to find the only New
England company that specializes in this process uses the old
fashioned "torch method" to do anything that is not high volume
production (and is not worth winding a copper coil for). To add
insult to injury, thay came back warped from uneven heating!
Paul


From hayesp@delphi.com Thu May 23 14:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find small round belts
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 21:36:34 -0500
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X-To: "Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com>

"Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com> writes:
 
>I need a small round belt - maybe 10-16 inches long.
 
check with Bearings Inc.. Since I don't know where you are, the toll free
number in my area is 1-800-258-7378. They are a national company and probably
have an office near you. These belts are made to order in whatever length you
want.
Paul


From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 28501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make castings for lathe
Date: 17 May 1996 08:55:46 GMT
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To: rdennett@aol.com

Sorry; should have mentioned that Gingery's Charcoal Foudry book _does_ 
have 25 or 30 pages of basic sand casting instruction, and the lathe 
book assumes you've read it I guess.  Also the Bill Cannon book (more 
basic even, but covers bronze casting (not just aluminum) _and_ 
polyurethane molding (he's into auto restoration and edits a magazine: 
"Skinned Knuckles") is called "How to Cast Small Metal and Rubber Parts".
You have LIndsay info probably if you have the Gingery lathe book, but 
it's (815) 935-5353; p.o. box 538, Bradley, IL 60915.
Lindsay has a _ton_ of beginning lathe, milling machine and related 
books, including the 1942 edition of the South Bend "How to Run a Lathe" 
book and a dozen others, some more advanced.

I invested in their 750-page hardcover "METALWORKING: A Book of Tools, 
Materials and Processes for the Handyman" for $30 (1907 volume reprint) 
and found it mindboggling, covering everything from lathes (90+ pages) to 
steam and "petrol" engines, electroplating, spinning metal, _foundry_ 
(i.e. casting metals), sheet metal, tempering and hardening and  dozens 
of other things.

This book is the best thing I've bought in awhile, and if you can afford 
it, you shouldn't let the price deter you; it's like an encyclopedia on 
metal history and practice.
I have no connection with Lindsay, except as a somewhat bewildered (if 
you read  their catalog, you'll understand) but pleased customer.




From douglas@praxis.net Thu May 23 14:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: douglas@praxis.net (Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 23:18:29 GMT
Organization: DOUGLAS - Custom Goldsmith
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"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

>:On 14 May 1996, Blake Malkamaki wrote:

>:> In article <DqqHrv.7B9@ccc.amdahl.com>, ece00@mfg.amdahl.com wrote:
>:> 
>:> $ > Has anyone ever made a compressor which they are happy with?
>:> $ 
>:> $ > If so, how did you do it?
>:> $ 
>:> $ > I am interested in making one, I think...  Thanks for any help! 
>:> $ 
>:> $ >    Jeff Trites
>:> $ 
>:> $ 
>:> $ While visiting a friend on his ranch and looking through the "boneyards" for 
>:> $ antique car parts, I noticed couple of these types of compressors.  It was a 
>:> $ Model A engine in which 2 of the cylinders were used to produce the compressed
>:> $ air while it ran off the other 2 cylinders.  Simply plumb the lines using the 
>:> $ spark plug holes.  What an idea! Of course, people back then had alot of
>:> creative 
>:> $ ideas.
>:> $ 
>:> $ Earl
>:> 
>:> This was most likely factory made.  I have seen many of them, most built
>:> by Schramm, and many using Ford flat head V-8s.  They have special heads
>:> and don't just use the engine heads.
>:> 
>:> Blake

>:Right.  There were a number of larger aircompressors on the market about
>:thirty or forty years ago made from Ford flatheads.  You pull the valves
>:from one bank and put on a special head that has inlet check valves and
>:outlet check valves to a delivery manifold.  You run it on the four 
>:cylinders on the other side.  You have to be sure you modify the intake
>:manifold to only put fuel mixture to the four cylinders that are running
>:as an engine.  Compressed fuel/air mixture could be quite explosive in 
>:your air tool!  
>:They delivered a LOT of air at about 90 psi.  Excellent for jackhammers 
>:and similiar tools.
>:JOhn

Someone is now offering a cam that will allow the use of a VW engine for a
compresser. Fires on two, pumps on two.

If your interested I'll track down the info.


Respectfully,

Douglas

Amulets, Talismans and Metaphysical Jewels

          http://galaxymall.com/shops/douglas.html



From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?
Date: 17 May 1996 08:08:57 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
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To: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU

Well, it's not that bad...   Saw some sheet up to about .05" in sizes up 
to 36" by 36" at the big Sun & Fun airshow in Lakeland, FL last month, 
going for (as I recall) $30 or so a sheet.  Quite a variety, and probably
aviation-manufacturer surplus.  You West Coast guys have a lot more 
access to the aerospace industry, and I bet there's more.  It'll probably 
also  show up at the Partsmart (used airplane parts) at the OshKosh show 
in the summer.
Couldn't figure out what I'd possibly do with it, or how to work it, or 
I'd have bought a bunch.
On the other hand, I have this really neet DC-3 hydraulic actuator about 
3 ft. long, some "oil burner cans" (whatever they are) and bags of 
titanium nuts & bolts I'm sure I'll find a use for ... someday ...I mean 
it... and I have lots of space to store all this stuff, and I won't bring 
anything wlse home until I can use it .. I promise.
Anyone else with this packrat problem?



From edk4@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 28504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anodizing Aluminum with household dies?
Date: 17 May 1996 07:52:10 -0400
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rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman) writes:

>I'm not familiar with the lye method of anodizing aluminum, but I use an
>oxalic acid method for anodizing aluminum, using 15 to 25 volts, AC (not
DC).
>I use household dyes to colour the aluminum after the anodizing process.

Bob

Could you explain the oxalic acid process, please.

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From psh@islandnet.com Thu May 23 14:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: titanium *sheet* source?- packrat affliction
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 15:15:17 -0700
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"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

>I have noticed that people with this packrat tendency, and I am one,
>should build a new barn every year or two to store their acquisitions
>until they are needed. 

Yesssssss !!!!!

> If she would go down and rummage through
>the trash and find that little piece we had declared redundant I could
>repair her toilet in no time!  
>It is so nice to be proven right once in a while! :-)

Packrats - 1
Wifes - 0

Let's hear it for packrats !!!!

Sorry, couldn't resist
Jens




From madmax@cdepot.net Thu May 23 14:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Max Elorza <madmax@cdepot.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question - Lathe tool height
Date: 18 May 1996 00:54:56 GMT
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You might try a KDK tool holder.  It has a holder base with seperate  
holders for your different tool bits.  Each holder has a seperate height 
adjustment.  I recently bought a new lathe that came with a turret style 
tool post.  I am getting a KDK for my lathe.  It seems idiotic to me that 
the majority of tool holders do not have height adjustment.  You would 
think that with all the money you spend on a lathe, you would get a tool 
holder that doesn't require shimming.



From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Thu May 23 14:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: prazi machines - info
Date: 18 May 1996 00:45:33 GMT
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Hi!
Anyone here has some experience with the Prazi's milling machine?
I would like to by one, but info seems hard to find. I'm writing from Brazil and I have their catalog (a 
brochure, actually) and the machine's  user's handbook.

The handbook is not much help and German-English translation is awfull, and has very little info on what 
can be done. Their lathe's manuals have more info, but the translation...

I would like to exchange info about the accessories offered.

many thanks!

eduardo haddad filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br



From kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com Thu May 23 14:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kpinkert@eagle1.eaglenet.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 17:51:08 GMT
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On Sat, 18 May 1996 07:52:03 +0100, Bob Unitt
<news@bobunitt.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>In article <4nfqlu$ar0@zeus.tcp.co.uk>, Bill Isbell <wilfred@tcp.co.uk>
>writes
>>Many years ago I remember making a nail punch in my metalwork class.
>>The punch was case hardened using a material called "Kasenit", if my
>>memory from 50 years ago serves me correctly.   Does anyone know
>>whether this material can still be obtained in the UK, please.
>

Brownells Inc (gunsmithing supplies) sells Kasenit. Their number is
515-623-5401.

Kevin


From walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com Thu May 23 14:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 28509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Walt Slominski <walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com>
Subject: question - Lathe tool height
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I am new to metalworking - The Southbend book indicates that the tool point
should be at the center of the work that is being turned.
The four way tool post on my 9x20 Jet does not have a height adj. and the 1/2"
square tool is a little below center. Should I shim the tool to the correct
hieght?
Also the tool holder cannot be tilted - the book shows most cutters at an
angle to the work.

The tools I am using are 1/2" square carbide tipped (80 degree point and
square tip).

How about some recomended reading.

Thanks, Walt


From ierh2@agt.gmeds.com Thu May 23 14:19:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ierh2@agt.gmeds.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Van Norman mill
Date: 17 May 1996 08:33:14 -0700
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I also have a Van Norman 1/2 mill.  It was my father-in-law's.  I'm looking for
a manual (will pay for copying/shipping) and recommendations on sizing a 
replacement motor.  The current motor is 1725 rpm, 1 HP, single phase,
NEMA type 66, made by A.O. Smith (AO smith has no recollection of making such a
beast either).  I would think 1HP is enough -  thoughts?  

As Larry states below I also need to scrounge around for some 5V collects and I
probably need to replace the drawbar - internal threads are shot.

Is there a way to determine the age of the machine?  The only date I could find
was the patent date - 18xx.  One thing I found curious was that the small 
locking screws (gear/shaft) were 1/4-24 thread instead of 1/4-20 or 28.

Thanks,

Bob 


In article <4nf7re$nbp@bubbla.uri.edu>, Larry says...
>
>news:4mvv24$dns@bissun.bisco.kodak.com
>welk@bisco.kodak.com (Steve Welk) wrote:
>>Are there any sources for parts/documentation for Van Norman mills out there?
>>The unit in question is a model #22.  Any comments about this unit would be
>>welcome, as I've come across one at a pretty reasonable price & am thinking
>>about buying it.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Steve   
>Steve-
>
>I have a Van Normand 1/2 (no miss-print, it's really a one-half!) which
>dates from 1943.  It has three sets of flat belts and pulleys and 
>stands almost seven feet tall.  It goes clikety-clikety and looks like
>ancient history.  However, it also has turned out some surprising 
>work.  My unit is a "Universal" mill, the head can be rotated up to
>ninety degrees to perform vertical or horizontal work or anything in
>between and is equipped with power feed in one axis.  
>
>Most of the Van Normands I have seen use 5V collets which can be hard
>to come by.  I have been scrounging them for a couple of years and 
>have finally acquired enough to be useful.  So make sure you get all
>the collets you can from the seller.  If the model 22 is a universal
>machine make sure you get the horizonal arbor too.  
>
>I finally started making my own end mill holders and found it to be
>very simple and far superior to holding the end mill in a collet.
>
>One of the limitations of the 5V collet is that the maximum size 
>available is 5/8".  Since the body of the collet is only .850" in
>diameter it is not possible to hold a 3/4" straight shaft tool in
>a collet.  This limits the selection of cutting tools that can be
>used in the machine.
>
>I have been reading the comments on this newsgroup about only buying 
>mills that are equipped with an R8 spindle and I think that for many 
>people some of the older machines (like Van Normands) would actually 
>represent a better bargain and be a more useful machine since most
>of them are universal mills.
>
>I paid nothing for my machine, all I had to do was move it.  It broke
>down into component parts and was easily moved with my pickup truck.
>My machine is one of the smallest that Van Normand made and is perfect
>for model work (live steam locos, etc.).
>
>A friend of mine has a Van Normand model 12 which is also a universal
>mill and he is very happy with it.  
>
>Good luck!
>
>-Larry
>
>


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cnc mill retrofit
Date: 18 May 1996 05:32:36 GMT
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Dave Ruigh (dzr10@eng.amdahl.com) wrote:
: Richard Hal Buxton wrote:
: > 
: > After much thought, I am ordering a Bobcad retrofit kit for a
: > South Bend, Bridgeport style, milling machine.  I don't forsee
: > any problems mounting the stepper motors for X and Y, but I am
: > thinking about Z.  Should I drive the quill or the knee?  The
: > quill appears to be the easier route to go, but I am hoping
: > that there is someone out there that has been down this road
: > before and can save me from missing something.  Any thoughts?
: > Rick

: After just completing a "low budget" (actually free) retrofit
: of one of our shop's Bridgeports, I'll comment on this one.
: While it's possible to drive the knee on this type of machine,
: the torque requirments would be extreme, probably beyond what
: an affordable stepper/drive could deliver, unless you're 
: willing to tolerate very low z feedrates with a reduction drive.
: I built a simple quill drive using a 5/8" ballscrew and 110 oz/in
: dc servo with a 2:1 reduction drive (.375 pitch timing belt).
: I removed the original depth stop mechanism and fabricated a 
: block that mounts to the same 3/8-24 hole in the quill as the
: stop. This connects directly to the ballnut. I've been able
: to rapid at 120-150 in/min with no problems. The key is to get
: the leadscrew as close to the axis of the quill as possible
: to minimise bending moment of the link. I used aluminum for 
: this link, and there is noticeable flex when it's driving
: up and down, steel would be a much better choice. I've also
: heard of people driving the quill via the drive pinion for
: the original handle, eliminating the need for a ballscrew.
: My machine has rather a lot of slop in this gear, so it
: wasn't an option.

Yup - this is exactly the plan for my machine.  The problem with it is
that I often switch from a jacobs chuck to a small end mill and back
again during the work.  While changing the tool loses the Z reference
anyway, I end up using the knee motion a lot.  Maybe this is only because
the knee is calibrated (sort of) with the dial on the crank, while the
quill is uncalibrated for all practical purposes.
I think I am going to try to have BOTH axes on an NC drive.  Also, for
exotic work, you may want to tilt the head, so that the quill is no 
longer parallel to the knee motion.
Don't forget the rotary table or dividing head for a 5th axis.

: The whole thing is somewhat crude, I just plopped an XY table
: from a salvaged wire bonding machine on the Bridgeport's 
: table (actually handy, as I have 2 X and Y axes). The table
: is the weak point, not really being rigid enough for heavy
: cutting, but fine for most of the small fixtures we make.
: It's a far cry from our old CNC (sold during downsizing 3
: years ago), with its 40" X 28" X 18" travels, Fanuc control,
: and tenth repeatability, but it beats the hell out of 'crankin
: handles.

: Dave


From feng2921@altair.selu.edu Thu May 23 14:19:03 EDT 1996
Article: 28512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: feng2921@altair.selu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: brass or bronze pipe
Message-ID: <1996May18.002846.1976@altair.selu.edu>
Date: 18 May 96 00:28:46 -0600
Organization: Southeastern Louisiana University
Lines: 5

I need to buy a piece of bronze or brass pipe five inches in
diameter and ten and one-half inches long.  Anybody have a 
section close to this, or know of a source?

Tim


From writt@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Van Norman mill
Date: 18 May 1996 02:01:03 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4ni67q$j0d@doc.zippo.com>, ierh2@agt.gmeds.com writes:

> One thing I found curious was that the small 
>locking screws (gear/shaft) were 1/4-24 thread instead of 1/4-20 or 28.
>
>

Sorry I can't help you with your other questions, but the 1/4-24 thread 
was a standard at one time. I used  to build old Harleys and this was a
common size on them. I still have a 1/4-24 tap set.

Bill Rittner



From wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net Thu May 23 14:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Is KASENIT any good?
Date: 15 May 1996 23:26:33 GMT
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Is KASENIT any good? Will it work on 12L14?



From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: brass or bronze pipe
Date: 18 May 1996 22:10:28 GMT
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In message <1996May18.002846.1976@altair.selu.edu> -
feng2921@altair.selu.edu writes:
:->
:->I need to buy a piece of bronze or brass pipe five inches in
:->diameter and ten and one-half inches long.  Anybody have a 
:->section close to this, or know of a source?
:->
:->Tim

Not sure if this is what you want, but...
Most bearing suppliers should be able to get you bronze bearing
material in tubular form, standard length is 13 inches. The OD/ID
sizes are over/under size, to allow machining to the correct size. 

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From nwinburn@awod.com Thu May 23 14:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 28516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Nancy Uy Winburn <nwinburn@awod.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: large wet stone for sale
Date: 16 May 1996 11:32:24 GMT
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Wet stone aprox 36" dia and 5" wide, cast iron frame with gear box and 3 
ph motor....do not know if motor works (no 3 ph power to test) asking 
$300 located in Hartsville, SC



From shockey@primenet.com Thu May 23 14:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: 20 May 1996 07:10:01 -0700
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In article <19MAY199605081909@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu> v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER) writes:
>From: v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER)
>Subject: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
>Date: 19 May 1996 05:08 EST

> I have a brass nameplate that I want to mount to a flat laquered
>painted steel surface. I would like to use a thin strong 
>double sided adhesive film, since it eliminate much of the mess and
>can be cut to size. Any suggestions? 

>        Neil Gandler

Scotch (3M) used to have a double-sided tape that looked like 
a very thin cellophane tape with a backing. I always got the 
stuff at my local drafting supply house. (Way back in the pre-
historic days when we drew with a pencil instead of a rodent.) 
Anyway, the tape came on a roll like masking tape. I affixed 
data plates with it and it seemed to be fine, in the correct 
environment. ie: no steam, heavy degreasers, etc. 


Good luck,


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: identify this device
Date: 20 May 1996 15:36:33 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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I have had come in to my posession an unusual device- it appears to be for
calibrating pressure gauges. It consists of a brass balance arm, a large
horizontal brass lfywheel driven by a rubber wheel, a couple of stopcocks,
a 3" diameter brass cylinder with a a floating piston, and various adapters.
The maker's name escapes me- wrote it down and left it at home- but it
began with C, I think- and it was made in Boston.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Can you venture a guess as to its
age and value? Is it still a useful device?

--mike  mje@pass.wayne.edu


From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Thu May 23 14:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 20 May 1996 16:45:16 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <4nq7is$16t0@serra.unipi.it>
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In article <4nl4hi$7n9@acme.sb.west.net>, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) says:
>
>        Well, I just ordered a 24 in. shrink rule from Pattern Supply 
>for-- get this-- $122.-!!! Egads! for this price it should have been 
>supplied in a mink-lined mahogany case, with gold lettering, but it came 
>taped to a board...
>         Isn't there a cheaper place to buy this kind of thing??? 
>Fortunately it's about the only patternmaking item that 
>can't be fabricated at home, but an alternative supplier would be 
>appreciated.. Anyone got any favourite stores for this sort of thing??
>-- 
>        "Steamboat Ed" Haas     :       What would happen if.....
>        COMING SOON             :       Superman farted??
>        http://www.west.net/~steamer    
>                ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>  

question: 24" is the actual size of the rule or the scale to be written 
in?
I have a Myford lathe and it's bed is only 20" long, but if disregard this
problem my solution would be:
Taking into account the leadscrew pitch (mine is 8 TPI) and the requested
division, using a bit of math, I can find a set of gears to be mounted
on the lathe and to be used like a dividing head.
Once mounted the gears I can mount a strip of metal on the lathe and use
a tool has scriber.

Hope my idea is clear, my english do not help me to explain it....

But, if I can make a 0.5 mm screw (about 50 TPI..) on the lathe I can scribe
lines on a ruler and obtain one equivalent accuracy...

Paolo Zini      

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Thu May 23 14:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 28520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: 20 May 1996 16:58:52 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 52
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In article <319F461F.651E@lockheed.on.ca>, Doug Bryant <dbryant@lockheed.on.ca> says:
>
>I have an imported milling machine with sloppy lead screw nuts (over 15 
>thou backlash).  To fix the problem I designed and built a set of 
>anti-backlash nuts that automatically take up any backlash.  They work 
>very well as I can now do climb milling with no problems.  The only 
>backlash is about one thou most likely due to the space between thrust 
>bearings and the leadscrew handle.
>
>I expected I might run into a problem if the leadscrew pitch varied even 
>slightly or if the thread/root thickness varied.  Turns out there are 
>slight variations which causes some binding in certain areas.  I've tried 
>making the threads uniform by filing the flanks of the "thick" threads 
>but had no luck with this.
>
>Does anyone know of a good source for accurate lead screws?  I'm also 
>interested in outfitting the machine with a DRO. Anybody know where I can 
>get these and about how much the encoders (preferably linear) and DRO 
>would cost?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug

Can you describe better your anti-backlash nuts? 
It would be intersting for my lathe.

If you want to find shaft encoders, look at
http://www.usdigital.com/ 
You can find there several models of shaft encoders, proces under 50$
to have a readout, i tink that the simplest solution is to feed the 
pulses of shaft encoder to the PC and write a small program to display
the reading. If your leadscrew is worn-out, I tink that is possible to
tabulate the errors in the program and to automatically correct the 
reading according to the table.

Paolo


                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From speff@io.org Thu May 23 14:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What do you call this machine  ?
Date: 20 May 1996 16:53:50 GMT
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I bought a machine a few years ago at an auction that appears to perform 
a rather unusual function. It looks like a floor-standing press with a 
foot lever. The head has a place for a tool of some kind. When actuated, 
the tool presses down on the work, rotates and hammers. 

I think the purpose is to head over the ends of pins on contacts or 
whatever to retain them into a flat sheet. The manufacturer's name isn't 
visible 'cause the thing has been repainted so many times, but I could 
put paint remover to it and get to it. 

Anyone know what this machine is called, and (more importantly) where can 
I get tools for it? I would imagine they look like a chisel with a 
round shank. 

Thanks for any ideas!

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=










From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is KASENIT any good?
Date: 20 May 1996 17:09:15 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net

Yes, Kasenit is good when used as intended, but I think you'll 
have problems trying to case harden a leaded steel.  If you
need to case harden the part, use 1018 or something like that.





From SLogan@gnn.com Thu May 23 14:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 28523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Address
Date: 20 May 1996 18:35:47 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 14
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In article <4nq6sb$1k7@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>, From 
a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz), the following was written:
> I need to contact South Bend tool company.

South Bend Lathe Corp.
400 W. Sample St.
South Bend, IN  46601-2892
Tel (219) 289-7771

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Thu May 23 14:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinery prime and paint?
Date: 20 May 1996 18:47:01 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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	Anyone know how to do this right (well, as best I can in 
	my home garage without spray equipment)...

Without spray equipment, eh? Then you can't do it "right" ... but no
matter, you can do a really nice job.

The state of the art in painting metal comes from the auto industry.
Painting is easy - surface prep is what's hard, and the better
the surface prep, the better the final finish.

First you want to remove all the grease and dirt. I prefer a solution
of trisodium phosphate - buy the powder at a hardware store and
mix it up strong. (Be sure to get the real thing, not a lookalike
that's labelled "TPS".) If there are parts of the tool from
which you'd like to remove old paint, this is a good way to do it -
get a galvanized bucket big enough to hold the part and soak it,
preferably over a stove to heat the solution and speed the reaction.

Washing down with some sort of phosphoric acid solution is a good
idea; it will etch the steel to take the primer, it will neutralize
the microscopic rust that's in the steel's "pores", and it will leave
a thin iron phosphate layer that will resist surface rust while you
continue. Naval Jelly is good for removing rust, but needs to be
rinsed - you want something that will flash off. DuPont makes a product
called metalprep that is expensive but very good; find it at your
local auto paint store.

Just before I paint, I wipe down everything with lacquer thinner or
something like PrepSol to get any surface dust or finger grease off.

Get a primer that goes with your paint. Most automotive finishes aren't
meant to be brushed, so your auto paint store will be helpful here. I
*love* PPG DP40 - it's a very tough finish in its own right, etches
the surface a bit so it really hangs on. Follow the directions carefully,
especially regarding mixing and timing (DP40 wants to be painted over
in no more than 36 hours, for example, or you have to scuff it.) Most
auto paint stores will mix up paint or primer and load it into a rattle
can for you, for a price.

Good luck.


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Identifying aluminum vs. magnesium
Date: 20 May 1996 19:16:10 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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Message-ID: <4nqgdq$2oq@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
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Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: David Baggaley (baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca) wrote:
: : Can anyone recommend a quick and dirty method of distinguishing these metals?
: : I have an old circular saw that seems unusually light for it's size and I'm
: : curious what it's made of. 

: : I know magnesium burns, but I'm not that curious.

: Sure - that's how you test it.  File a tiny bit off a corner somewhere.
: You don't need more than a few grains.  Light a propane torch, and sprinkle
: the file dust into the flame.  If you see tiny but brilliant blue-white
: sparkles flash in the flame, it is a flammable metal, ie. Mg or Ti.

Aluminum burns quite well well finely divided, too. 



From rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us Thu May 23 14:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 28526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us (Richard Hal Buxton)
Subject: Re: cnc mill retrofit
Message-ID: <Drq846.1EGq@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:04:54 GMT
References: <4nl4tv$8el@acme.sb.west.net>
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 7

Many thanks to everyone who answered my call for help, either
here or by email.  It seems as though the quill is the most cost
effective way to go.  I do not see the drilling problem as one
I am going to have to deal with very often, even though it is a
very vaid point.
Thanks
Rick


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:19:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: 20 May 1996 20:33:05 GMT
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Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) wrote:

: Nobody has yet said what this exotic silicon wafer scrap costs.  You should
: be able to buy virgin silicon metal for well under $1 per lb.  Why fool with
: expensive electronic scrap ?  The guy who was making the silver alloy is
: only adding 1%... purity is not at all an issue.

Well, we ordinarily never sell our scrap--it goes to the dumpster.  If
you are willing to do a bit of dumpster-diving, *or* if you have some
friends in the industry, you should be able to beat $1 per pound, especially if
all you need is 1% of your silver stock.  

Note that in the local (silicon valley) area, some outfits tend to be
pretty testy about dumpster divers.  OTOH, if you know an engineer or
low level manager/supervisor type, you can probably get a small stash for
the asking.  However, *don't* ask for junk wafers by product type....

Pete Brooks



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:08 EDT 1996
Article: 28528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question - Lathe tool height
Date: 20 May 1996 21:26:18 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) wrote:
: Yes, you'll probably need to shim the height.  Get some .010",
: 005", and .002" feeler gauge stock and keep a few pieces of 
: each around; then you can easily build up any height without 
: much difficulty.  (In theory I suppose you might need some 
: 001" stock to get it within .001" of center, but I strongly
: suspect .002" is close enough!)

: You don't need the angled tool holders; the old "Armstrong"
: style tool holders have a built-in 10 degree angle, but in fact
: I think you're better off without it. If you need that angle on
: the toolbit, grind it.  In fact, there are some Armstrong tool
: holders designed for carbide that don't have that angle built
: into them.

The angle (positive rake) is desirable for aluminum.

: Incidently, I think you would be better off using high-speed
: steel for most things instead of carbide.  A small lathe simply
: isn't rigid enough to take advantage of carbide.  HSS is much
: more suitable, and works fine.

The lathe is often not the problem, it's that awful 'lantern' style
toolpost.  The cup washer, slider, (sometimes a shim) and tool holder
are a MASSIVELY flexible contraption.  Also, the armstrong-style holders
force you to keep the toolpost far away from the cutting edge, increasing
overhang and the moment arm on the compound.  This makes it very NON-rigid.
I changed from a lantern toolpost to an aloris copy some years ago, and
was astounded at the difference!  I have only had the lantern back on the
lathe twice in 5 years to use a specially formed tool bit.  Otherwise,
the quick-change stays on all the time.  Boring with a boring bar is 
difficult enough without adding any more flex to the lathe.




From fabian@li.net Thu May 23 14:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Fabo <fabian@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What do you call this machine  ?
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 05:49:06 -0700
Organization: Islandia Software and Consulting Company
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Spehro Pefhany wrote:
> 
> I bought a machine a few years ago at an auction that appears to perform
> a rather unusual function. It looks like a floor-standing press with a
> foot lever. The head has a place for a tool of some kind. When actuated,
> the tool presses down on the work, rotates and hammers.
> 
> I think the purpose is to head over the ends of pins on contacts or
> whatever to retain them into a flat sheet. The manufacturer's name isn't
> visible 'cause the thing has been repainted so many times, but I could
> put paint remover to it and get to it.
> 
> Anyone know what this machine is called, and (more importantly) where can
> I get tools for it? I would imagine they look like a chisel with a
> round shank.
> 
> Thanks for any ideas!
> 
> --
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=
> Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
> speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
> Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=


Hmm Sure its not a spot welder ?
Fabo
fabian@li.net


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu May 23 14:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Tool Grinders
Message-ID: <1996May20.210124.6287@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4na894$sku@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:01:24 GMT
Lines: 37

In article <4na894$sku@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
J T Stull <jtstull@aol.com> wrote:
>Has anyone built Lautards "Tinker" tool grinder?
>How about any other too grinder.  The Quorn looks like a life long
>project!  

I've looked at the Tinker, and rather like the design.  It seems to be
designed to handle most of what I need without all the additional
complexity of the Quorn.

>What about the ones that have been published in the Brit. mag. "Model
>Engineers Home Workshop?  Some of these look prety good.  I built some
>time 
>ago the one Rudy Kauhaupt published in HSM a few yeas ago using a small
>piece of aluminum I cast for the head. It works well for tool bits and I
>scribed some lines on it and now us it fo drill bits.

I'm not familiar with that you describe, but have found that for drill
grinding a drill grinder works best - it's got the cam movement built
in and usually does a better job than a flat face grind.  I flat face
grind the little bitty drills, but for 1/8" and above use a drill
grinder.

>But I would like something with more capabilities.

I'm considering building something like the Glendo unit.  I like their
design, but find the $1K price a turnoff.  I know at least one r.c.m
poster got one and seems to like it, but $1k just about kills me.  I
can't see that you get to $250 before the diamond wheels...  (A kit
>from  Hemingway for the Worden grinder, similar in design to the Glendo
unit but using a traditional cup grinding wheel would go for $300 or
so).

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinery prime and paint?
Date: 21 May 1996 00:00:49 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
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Message-ID: <4nr13h$irb@dopey.magg.net>
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I've been waiting for somebody to suggest this in response to a painting 
inquiry, but they haven't, so here goes.

If you want to primarily prevent corrosion, Zinc Chromate is one way to 
go (don't breathe it ... _really_ ... but it's available at 
marine/aviation outlets in spray cans).  Some of the Epoxy-chromate 
paints are probably harder, but you don't want to get into two-part 
paints for your project.  Zn Chromate is sort of soft, but _very_ 
effective against corrosion.  I use good old Rust-O-Leum spray right over 
it, with results at least as good as the factory gets on equipment.
ROL is a better paint than most people think, and given half a chance to 
harden up is pretty durable, too.  Discount store spray paint _is not 
Rust-O-Leum_.


     For a piece of shop equipment getting hard use, I'd personally use 
a paint something we use in auto restoration a lot (when you want to do 
something _once_ and never do it again, however long the blasted car 
lasts).  It's a moisture-cured urethane (not _poly_urethane; totally 
different) and is sold under several names, one of which is "POR-15" (by 
a company of the same name (800) 457 6715) another is "Miracle Paint" 
(Bill Hirsch Ent. (800) 828-2061) --  and it's advertised in J.C. Whitney 
Auto Parts (item 12FG1079R: Black; 12FG1080X: Silver; (312) 431-6102).

    This comes in three "colors" (if clear, black and silver are colors) 
for about $25 to 28 a _quart_).  Don't use clear for anything exposed to 
sunlight, since it will cloud a bit.

    This paint is kind of an open secret of auto restorers, and is 
impervious to everything.  You can paint an anvil, let it dry, whack it 
with a hammer -- repeatedly -- and just dent the anvil and the paint with 
it.  You can immerse it in salt water for months, with no result 
whatsoever.  It hardens even more with age and exposure to moisture, and 
you will never have to paint again., One trick is to use it on sheet 
metal that is almost rusted through, and the paint is so strong it 
restores the strength of the metal itself.  Candidly, I wouldn't bother 
using a primer, though I'd use a pre-treatment "etch" to be sure you get 
a good tooth to the metal (chemically-cleaned pitted metal is the best 
surface you can have for this)  A primer just IMHO wastes the awesome 
adhesion of this stuff.  It's sprayable like any other paint and is a 
one-part paint, though you may want to thin it a bit to spray (don't 
recall if it uses a special thinner, they'll tell you when you order).

    I've used this on a car frame which then sat for three years 
outside, in Florida.  The frame was almost rusted through where it 
_wasn't_ painted, but looked brand-new where it was.  I sprayed the 
silver on the 5/8" CDX plywood my utility (read: trash can) carts are 
made of, which have been out in the sun and rain for _eight years_ 
without even a splinter in the wood (all sides and edges heavily sprayed 
and permanently preserved).  They haven't absorbed a drop of moisture, 
even though the edges are exposed and unprotected except for the paint.

    I don't think this stuff is terribly toxic, as paints go, but _do not 
get it on you_, or if you do clean it _soon_ or you will wear it until 
the skin wears off.  No kidding: I sat on a newly-painted surface and 
didn't notice 'til it was too late.  I wore a stripe for a good month.

    Interestingly, though I've always sprayed it, I've seen this paint 
brushed on, and it's so slick and heavy-bodied, you can't see 
brushstrokes and it looks sprayed.  It also covers all pitting.  JUST 
DON'T USE IT ON ANYTHING YOU MIGHT EVER WANT TO STRIP AND REPAINT.  
Short of UV, I'm not sure anything will touch it.  A quart goes farther 
than you might think, by the way.

    Even if you don't want a silver or black drill press, if you have 
this stuff around you'll use it for something (put any left over in a 
smaller container and put a layer of plaastic wrap between the container 
and top.  You will never get it open again otherwise;  I've had to cut 
the top off of more than one partly-used can.)


    Again, I have no affiliation with any seller, and they wouldn't want 
my endorsement anyway.



From gwhite@tiac.net Thu May 23 14:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 28532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 02:04:03 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4nr8bn$jv2@news-central.tiac.net>
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In article <shockey.478.0A06EC23@primenet.com>,
   shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey) wrote:
<In article <19MAY199605081909@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu> 
v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER) writes:
<>From: v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER)
<>Subject: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
<>Date: 19 May 1996 05:08 EST
<
<> I have a brass nameplate that I want to mount to a flat laquered
<>painted steel surface. I would like to use a thin strong 
<>double sided adhesive film, since it eliminate much of the mess and
<>can be cut to size. Any suggestions? 
<
<>        Neil Gandler
<
<Scotch (3M) used to have a double-sided tape that looked like 
<a very thin cellophane tape with a backing. I always got the 
<stuff at my local drafting supply house. (Way back in the pre-
<historic days when we drew with a pencil instead of a rodent.) 
<Anyway, the tape came on a roll like masking tape. I affixed 
<data plates with it and it seemed to be fine, in the correct 
<environment. ie: no steam, heavy degreasers, etc. 
<
Actually, 3M also makes 'double sided tape' without the tape!  This is 
basically just adhesive (sort of like rubber cement) on a waxed backing 
paper.  You stick it to one object, and then peel off the backer.  The 
result is a thin film of adhesive, without the bulk of any stuctural 
'tape' layer.  I think it's called 'transfer adhesive'.  The really slick 
approach is to get a 'gun' dispenser.  This lays down adhesive, and 
automatically winds up the backing tape.  You can lay down a lot of 
sticky in a short amount of time.  I use it to stick stacks of sheet 
metal together when sawing multiple pieces, light clamping jobs, and 
attaching patterns.  I think I may have used it once or twice for 
nameplates.  It's very sticky and fairly strong, but you can remove 
things if you warm them up with a heat gun.  Residue can be removed with 
lighter fluid.

Doug White


From dbsolomon1@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dbsolomon1@aol.com (DBSolomon1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SAG 12 Graziano Lathe Manuals Needed
Date: 21 May 1996 02:24:39 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Does anyone have a SAG 12 Graziano CNC Lathe with a GE 1050 H controller?

I am in the process of acquiring one and the dealer does not have a a full
set of manuals.  Specifically, I need the MSD codes and electrical ladder
diagram.  
I am border line desperate any would appreciate any assistance if you have
manuals or know where to find them.  

Either e-mail me at DBSOLOMON1@alo.com or call me at 818-296-1051
extension 202.  


From pdrahn@pdrahn.seanet.com Thu May 23 14:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrahn@pdrahn.seanet.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: prazi machines - info
Date: 19 May 1996 04:12:07 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 22
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>   ehaddadf@iis.com.br writes:
>  Hi!
>  Anyone here has some experience with the Prazi's milling machine?
>  I would like to by one, but info seems hard to find. I'm writing from Brazil and I have their catalog (a 
>  brochure, actually) and the machine's  user's handbook.
>  
>  The handbook is not much help and German-English translation is awfull, and has very little info on what 
>  can be done. Their lathe's manuals have more info, but the translation...
>  
>  I would like to exchange info about the accessories offered.
>  
>  many thanks!
>  
>  eduardo haddad filho
>  ehaddadf@iis.com.br
>  
>  
>>>>
I have been using one of their lathes for a couple of years, now.  The quality of the equipment is
excellent.  I do not have the Mill, but will be happy to answer any lathe questions, if that helps.
EMAIL: pdrahn@pdrahn.seanet.com



From glbwelding@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 28535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glbwelding@aol.com (GLBWELDING)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Henrob 2000 torch
Date: 21 May 1996 02:55:05 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: glbwelding@aol.com (GLBWELDING)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

As a dealer for the Henrob torch as well as Harris I would suggest all
cast iron
be preheated and slowly cooled down.  U out cracks rather than "v" as
stress
build up from sharp grind configuration.  The cast iron rod is the best as
chemically the same as parent metal can easily be machined and expands
the same as parent metal. 1-800-258-0126


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question - Lathe tool height
Date: 19 May 1996 04:53:13 GMT
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Max Elorza (madmax@cdepot.net) wrote:
: You might try a KDK tool holder.  It has a holder base with seperate  
: holders for your different tool bits.  Each holder has a seperate height 
: adjustment.  I recently bought a new lathe that came with a turret style 
: tool post.  I am getting a KDK for my lathe.  It seems idiotic to me that 
: the majority of tool holders do not have height adjustment.  You would 
: think that with all the money you spend on a lathe, you would get a tool 
: holder that doesn't require shimming.

I have a Phase II dovetail-type toolpost, a knockoff of the Aloris.  It is
a bit expensive, but I'll never go back.  It has a thumbwheel for vertical
adjustment, with a jam nut to lock the thumbwheel once you have it set
the way you want.  You can set the various tool holders, and then switch
back and forth from, say, turning tool to cutoff tool to boring bar, and
each tool keeps its setting.  Really nice.  you can see these in nearly
any machinist's supply catalog, ie. Enco, MSC, etc.

I use a combination of brazed carbide bits and indexable carbide holders.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this "oil burner can thing?"
Date: 19 May 1996 05:02:37 GMT
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Anthony EPucillo (aep19@mail.magg.net) wrote:
:     Last month, I bought a couple of objects at an aviation event, for a 
: dollar or two each, labelled "burner cans.".  They are 12 or 15" long, 
: kind of cone-shaped with a rectangular opening at the small end maybe 3" 
: by 4", and maybe 6" by 9" opening at the other end.  In the big end, 
: there's what looks like a burner nozzle (round, a couple of tiers of 
: pinholes) with metal "fuel" lines running to it.  These lines pass out of 
: the  "horn" at about midpoint between big and small end and attach to 
: fuel-type pressure fittings outside the can.  
:      The whole thing is covered with soot, but seems to be a pot-metal or
: _maybe_ aluminum alloy.  I don't know whether this is a device to spew
: smoke from an aerobatic (or agri-spray?) airplane (the "big end" 
: obviously bolts up to something) or maybe  to spew smoke in an orange 
: grove on cold nights (bought them at Lakeland at the big Sun&Fun airshow, 
: so either is a real possibility).

These are combustion chambers from a jet engine.  they are most likely pure
titanium!  They are also probably worth a LOT more than what you spent for
them.  Pot metal or aluminum would melt in .1 second inside a jet engine.
Temperatures run from 600 degrees C in old engines to about 690 C in the
newer ones.

You could probably use them for a foundry - I don't know what temperature
you're trying to get to.  The Titanium is usually plated with something
to keep it from burning, and this may eventually wear off.  It also fatigues,
which is why the entire 'hot section' of a jet engine must be scrapped
after so many hours and starts.  The expensive titanium parts are usually
recycled, due to their intrinsic metal value.  the fuel nozzles are probably
WAY too big for your intended use.  You might be able to use them by plugging
some of the holes.  The airflow through these burners was way more than you
will want for your forge, so the fuel flow would probably be too much, too.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lubrication for lathe
Date: 19 May 1996 05:07:46 GMT
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M. Elorza (madmax@cdepot.net) wrote:
: I recently bought a lathe and in the owners manual it recommended Mobil 
: DTE Light oil for the headstock and feedbox and Mobil Vactra #2 for all 
: other applications.  I can't seem to find either of these oils.  Does 
: anyone have any suggestions?

Most smaller lathes use an SAE #10 oil for the headstock.  This is fine for
roller bearings, and fine for the higher speeds with journal bearings.  If
it has badly worn journal bearings, you may need to go to a higher viscosity
oil, such as SAE #30.  The Vactra #2 (if I remeber right) is an ISO #68
grade way oil, which has a tackiness property to help it stick to flat 
surfaces on the lather (or other machine).



From ernieleim@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 28539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum with Mig
Date: 19 May 1996 01:51:03 -0400
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 "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca> asked:

>I have a Millermatic 130 mig welder and I am interested in >welding
aluminum (1/8 inch sheet).
>Argon is required for this? Would Ar 75  CO2 25 work?
>Has anyone ever used a mig of this size for aluminum?

Miller makes an aluminum package for the 130 that includes a different
drive roller and a teflon liner . You will need these to run aluminum in
such a small machine.
You need to understand that it is pushing a small machine to it's limit to
weld aluminum. 
So here's a few things to do to make life easier.
1. Use a teflon liner in the gun.
2. Use a smooth drive roller.
3. Use only 5356 alloy wire . 
4. Use a helium / argon mix (at least 75% argon / 25% helium).
5. Each time you let go of the trigger, pull the wire out and snip it off
flush with the tip.
6. Clean the metal thoroughly.
7. V-grind all welds on materiel thicker than 1/16"
8. Let the machine cool down between welds.
9. Preheat the area to above 400 deg.F.

The teflon liner reduces friction, 
the smooth drive roller prevents birdnesting of the wire,
5356 wire is stiffer and won't be as prone to birdnest, helium/ argon
burns hotter and cleaner than straight argon, pullng it flush with the tip
creates a small delay before the wire touches the base metal thereby
allowing the gas to sheild the weld,
dirty aluminum is very hard to weld with a powerful machine let alone a
small one,
V-grinding the weld , and preheating the weld area aids penetration.

If you follow these guidelines you can get satisfactory welds on up to
1/8" aluminum with small MIG machines.

Best of luck



@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Thu May 23 14:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anodizing Aluminum with household dies?
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 22:56:58 mountain
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In article <4nhp9a$bqp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> edk4@aol.com (Edk4) writes:
>From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
>Subject: Anodizing Aluminum with household dies?
>Date: 17 May 1996 07:52:10 -0400

>rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman) writes:

>>I'm not familiar with the lye method of anodizing aluminum, but I use an
>>oxalic acid method for anodizing aluminum, using 15 to 25 volts, AC (not
>DC).
>>I use household dyes to colour the aluminum after the anodizing process.

>Bob

>Could you explain the oxalic acid process, please.

>------------------
>Ed Kingsley

I don't know if the oxalic method has any advantages over other methods
of anodizing aluminum.  It's just the method I learned and now use.
I use 10 ounces of Oxalic acid per (Imperial) gallon of distilled water.
To disolve the oxalic acid in the water, I boil about half of the water
and stir in the oxalic acid.  After it cools down, the rest of the water is 
added.  During anodizing, I try to keep the temperature at about 35
degrees C.  The objects to be anodized are cleaned in a strong
detergent solution and divided into two piles with more or less the
same surface area.  I suspend the parts from the bars in my plating
tank, using aluminum wire, (purchased from Radio Shack).  I  have
an old transformer I liberated from who knows where which puts out
25 Volts, AC at about 10 amps.  I use a Variac variable transformer
to control the voltage into my 25 volt transformer.  I apply 8 to 10
amps per square foot of material hanging on one of the bars.
I start at 15 to 16 volts, but the current will drop off, and the voltage
must be increased, eventually reaching 25 volts or more.  The
process is slow, and I have found that about ninety minutes is
required to get a good surface.  Go do something else in the shop
and check the bath every 20 minutes or so.

Some alloys will give a smutty appearance to the anodize.  I understand
that it is the presence of copper in the alloy that causes this.

Following the anodising process, the objects are immediately rinsed
in clear water and then boiled in the dye solution.  I use ordinary dye
for cloth (RIT) purchased at the supermarket.  The instructions that
come with the dye usually say that vinegar (acetic acid) is required
as a mordant.  The vinegar is not required for this process.  I usually
mix the dye a little stronger than specified.  Some colours are more
successful than others, and some experimentation is required.  I am
pleased with my reds and yellows.  I haven't been successful in getting
a nice deep black colour yet.

Hope this answers your question, Ed.

				RJG


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Thu May 23 14:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 18 May 1996 12:05:24 -0700
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In article <Bp76EAATOXnxEw32@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>,
Bob Unitt  <bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <4nfqlu$ar0@zeus.tcp.co.uk>, Bill Isbell <wilfred@tcp.co.uk>
>writes
>>Many years ago I remember making a nail punch in my metalwork class.
>>The punch was case hardened using a material called "Kasenit", if my
>>memory from 50 years ago serves me correctly.   Does anyone know
>>whether this material can still be obtained in the UK, please.
>
>Having been looking for some time myself, I was hoping you'd get a
>positive reply to this one...
>
>I've been talking to Reeves about this recently. The original maker
>stopped supplying Kasenit a couple of years ago, and they've been
>looking for an alternative source ever since. The only potential
>alternatives products they have been able to find are 'orribly
>poisonous, and there is an understandable reluctance to supply them for
>the home workshop. I know that they are still actively searching; we can
>only hope that they come up with something.
>
>In the meantime, perhaps you'd better start accumulating horse hoof-
>shavings, which is what (I believe) the old-time blacksmiths used.
>-- 
>Bob Unitt


Kasenit is still available and listed in the MSC catalog. The
description says it is non-poisonous, non-explosive and non flammable,
and will harden to a depth of .020. There are two types, one for fine
work, one for general. A 1 lb. can lists for $10.05.



___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010

Life is unpredictable. Eat dessert first.













From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Thu May 23 14:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 28542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 21:49:04 +0100
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In article <4nl4hi$7n9@acme.sb.west.net>, Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>
writes
>       Well, I just ordered a 24 in. shrink rule from Pattern Supply 
>for-- get this-- $122.-!!! Egads! for this price it should have been 
>supplied in a mink-lined mahogany case, with gold lettering, but it came 
>taped to a board...
>        Isn't there a cheaper place to buy this kind of thing??? 
>Fortunately it's about the only patternmaking item that 
>can't be fabricated at home, but an alternative supplier would be 
>appreciated.. Anyone got any favourite stores for this sort of thing??

Ed,

Why can you not draw the scale in Autocad or some other CAD package,
print onto acetate sheet, and phot0-lith onto a strip of suitable brass.

I never cease to be amazed how accurate the printed o/p from a basic
laser printer is.
Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK 0181-466-5582

<-------------Happiness is a fully ticked off list------------->


From rcook@BIX.com Thu May 23 14:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Heat treating steel
Date: 19 May 1996 07:20:50 GMT
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Alden  Hackmann wrote:
>First, how does someone like me (lacking a heat-treating oven or the
>resources to obtain one) do any heat treating at all?  I have a blowtorch,
>which seems fine for heating the piece to cherry red.  After quenching,
>attempts to heat the piece a little more gently have not been very
>successful.  What am I doing wrong (besides not buying an oven...)? 

Get yourself a plate of mild steel, fairly thick and big enough to set the
work on. Heat the plate and place the object on the plate. Note that this
only works if the object is of fairly uniform thickness or if you want to
only temper part of it (such as the edge of a blade.) For working edges of
tools, I usually just polish the part, heat the thicker portion and watch
the color run out to the working edge.

--RC


From dbryant@lockheed.on.ca Thu May 23 14:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Bryant <dbryant@lockheed.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 09:02:39 -0700
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I have an imported milling machine with sloppy lead screw nuts (over 15 
thou backlash).  To fix the problem I designed and built a set of 
anti-backlash nuts that automatically take up any backlash.  They work 
very well as I can now do climb milling with no problems.  The only 
backlash is about one thou most likely due to the space between thrust 
bearings and the leadscrew handle.

I expected I might run into a problem if the leadscrew pitch varied even 
slightly or if the thread/root thickness varied.  Turns out there are 
slight variations which causes some binding in certain areas.  I've tried 
making the threads uniform by filing the flanks of the "thick" threads 
but had no luck with this.

Does anyone know of a good source for accurate lead screws?  I'm also 
interested in outfitting the machine with a DRO. Anybody know where I can 
get these and about how much the encoders (preferably linear) and DRO 
would cost?

Thanks,
Doug


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Thu May 23 14:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 28545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 09:53:50 -0700
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To: Brad Meiners <meinersb@magpage.com>

Brad Meiners wrote:
> 
> Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
> 
> In the FAQ for this group it says:
> 
> -----------
> Grinder with Cutoff Wheel
>     With an angle grinder or a die grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel, you can cut ...
> flats.
>     ...
>     There are also cutoff wheels designed for use in circular saws.
> -----------
> 
> Where could I buy such a wheel for a circular saw?  A seach in my town and on the Net has
> yielded nothing.
> 
> I have some scrap lawn mower blades that I would like to cut into crude garden tools.  I have a
> old (and powerful) table saw and thought that with a couple of cuts it should be possible.
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> Brad

Have you tried your local hardware store? Around here they are easy to
find, I use them often on a home-made chopsaw. They are usually hanging
close to the concrete cut off wheels.

Good Luck

Jeff Trites


From cbear81438@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lubrication for lathe
Date: 19 May 1996 09:25:40 -0400
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When I bought an old machinists tools, Etc.   He had a barrel of Sliderite
66.   That was supposed to be way oil.   I use it for all areas on the
lathe mill and shaper.

Cecil


From cbear81438@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 19 May 1996 09:25:58 -0400
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In article <4nlepf$1cg@dopey.magg.net>, Anthony EPucillo
<aep19@mail.magg.net> writes:

>Do you suppose bone meal would work as well as horse hoofs?  I bought a 
>bunch of the stuff from the garden-supply department (they use it as a 
>soil additive (!) with the idea that it might work for that and other 
>purposes like an additive to casting sand (ground into flour).
>
>

Be cxareful using bone meal that has any nitrogen added to it.  If it
chars to produce carbon and the nitrates in it  at high temps , like in a
kiln, could cause an explosion (ingredients for gunpowder).

I do the old fashioned pack carburizing.   Mix pulverized charcoal with a
mixture of sodium carbonate, barium carbonate, calcium carbonate, with
water.  Mix thouroughly as a wet paste.   spread it out to dry.   Pack
material to be hardened in this mixture in an old flower pot.   Cover the
top with a flower pot base.   Place in kiln at 1500 deg for 4 hours. 
Remove and drop in a barrel of water.  For tools such as pullers, etc, I
don't do any other treatment.   The steel is harder than a file for about
1/8 " deep.

This is described in Guy Lautard's Machinist Bedside reader.  Don't
remember which version.   Buy all three, they are great reading for the
"throne room"

Cecil 


From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 14:25:50 GMT
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>
>BTW, one nit to pick.  If my math isn't completely messed up (a distinct
>possibility) you would need to use the tangent, not sine.  Tan A=a/b.
>A=angle from centerline, a=indicator reading, b=travel length (along
>bed, not along taper slide).
>
>What readings are you getting?  From my figures, you should have 0.1397"
>indicator travel in 4" bed travel for 2 degrees from center.  If 3 deg.
>35 min., it should be 0.2505".
> 
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Right you are Proffessor Logan, its tangent I need, can't trust 35 year old trig lessens, read 
"the brain that contains them", now all the numbers come out right.:) And yup its 2 degrees. 
>From  all this I've learned 1 when picking up a taper, ensert the test indicator as far into 
the spindle as possible and engage surface then withdraw indicator along taper, not to push 
indicater. 2, that my taper attachment reads encluded angle.
Thanks Scott   Bob




From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 28549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 14:26:49 GMT
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>
>BTW, one nit to pick.  If my math isn't completely messed up (a distinct
>possibility) you would need to use the tangent, not sine.  Tan A=a/b.
>A=angle from centerline, a=indicator reading, b=travel length (along
>bed, not along taper slide).
>
>What readings are you getting?  From my figures, you should have 0.1397"
>indicator travel in 4" bed travel for 2 degrees from center.  If 3 deg.
>35 min., it should be 0.2505".
> 
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Right you are Proffessor Logan, its tangent I need, can't trust 35 year old trig lessens, read 
"the brain that contains them", now all the numbers come out right.:) And yup its 2 degrees. 
>From  all this I've learned 1 when picking up a taper, ensert the test indicator as far into 
the spindle as possible and engage surface then withdraw indicator along taper, not to push 
indicater. 2, that my taper attachment reads encluded angle.
Thanks Scott   Bob




From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 14:27:44 GMT
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>
>BTW, one nit to pick.  If my math isn't completely messed up (a distinct
>possibility) you would need to use the tangent, not sine.  Tan A=a/b.
>A=angle from centerline, a=indicator reading, b=travel length (along
>bed, not along taper slide).
>
>What readings are you getting?  From my figures, you should have 0.1397"
>indicator travel in 4" bed travel for 2 degrees from center.  If 3 deg.
>35 min., it should be 0.2505".
> 
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Right you are Proffessor Logan, its tangent I need, can't trust 35 year old trig lessens, read 
"the brain that contains them", now all the numbers come out right.:) And yup its 2 degrees. 
>From  all this I've learned 1 when picking up a taper, ensert the test indicator as far into 
the spindle as possible and engage surface then withdraw indicator along taper, not to push 
indicater. 2, that my taper attachment reads encluded angle.
Thanks Scott   Bob




From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 14:28:01 GMT
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>
>BTW, one nit to pick.  If my math isn't completely messed up (a distinct
>possibility) you would need to use the tangent, not sine.  Tan A=a/b.
>A=angle from centerline, a=indicator reading, b=travel length (along
>bed, not along taper slide).
>
>What readings are you getting?  From my figures, you should have 0.1397"
>indicator travel in 4" bed travel for 2 degrees from center.  If 3 deg.
>35 min., it should be 0.2505".
> 
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Right you are Proffessor Logan, its tangent I need, can't trust 35 year old trig lessens, read 
"the brain that contains them", now all the numbers come out right.:) And yup its 2 degrees. 
>From  all this I've learned 1 when picking up a taper, ensert the test indicator as far into 
the spindle as possible and engage surface then withdraw indicator along taper, not to push 
indicater. 2, that my taper attachment reads encluded angle.
Thanks Scott   Bob




From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 28552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 14:38:48 GMT
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:
>
>BTW, one nit to pick.  If my math isn't completely messed up (a distinct
>possibility) you would need to use the tangent, not sine.  Tan A=a/b.
>A=angle from centerline, a=indicator reading, b=travel length (along
>bed, not along taper slide).
>
>What readings are you getting?  From my figures, you should have 0.1397"
>indicator travel in 4" bed travel for 2 degrees from center.  If 3 deg.
>35 min., it should be 0.2505".
> 
>
>--
>From Scott Logan,
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>
Ah, right you are Professor Logan, its tangent I need, never trust 35 year old trig lessons, 
read "the brains that contain them", and jup its 2 degrees. From all this I've concluded that 
the taper attachment reads the encluded angle, 4 degrees in this case and one should not push 
a test indicater but rather pull it along a surface to get an acurate reading. Thanks Scott, 
cheers. Bob



From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 19 May 1996 08:21:45 -0700
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Andrew Mawson (andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: Why can you not draw the scale in Autocad or some other CAD package,
: print onto acetate sheet, and phot0-lith onto a strip of suitable brass.
	--Hey, if I had the bucks to buy Autocad I wouldn't be bitchin' 
about $122.- ....
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From kish@browncow.com Thu May 23 14:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: Sheetmetal Bending Die Set
Date: 21 May 1996 12:44:58 GMT
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
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jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) wrote:
>Small “Press Brake” die set for bending sheetmetal
>Designed for use in an arbor press, but would probably work equally well
>in
>     a hydraulic press
>Four post die set; 6.25 by 4 inches; 4.125 wide between posts; spring lift
>Three hardened and ground 4.5 inch wide dies for bending 45, 90, and 135 
>      degree angles
>This came with a used arbor press I bought, but I have very limited use
>for it.
>Asking $35 plus UPS charge
>
>Please reply to jwcercis@aol.com

Hi,

 This sounds interesting to me, but I'm not familiar with this type of die set.
Can you tell me the max gauge of mild steel it is designed for? From your 
description I understand that max width of stock to be bent is 4.5", am I correct? 
Finally, can you tell me who manufactured the set? It does not sound like a Tiawan 
import! Also, what state are you in? (I'm in N.Y.)


			Thanks,

			 -Bill Kish



From jjette@sundial.net Thu May 23 14:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jjette@sundial.net (John Jeannette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 16:55:50 GMT
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On 18 May 1996 03:16:07 GMT, Brad Meiners <meinersb@magpage.com>
wrote:
>Where could I buy such a wheel for a circular saw?  A seach in my town and on the Net has 
>yielded nothing.
They are very common. Go back to the hardware store or building supply
store and ask the guy in the saw blade dept. for a abrasive saw blade
for metal. One kind is made for metal and the other is made for
masonry. While you are there also buy some wraparound safety glasses
or you are guaranteed to blind youself.
>I have some scrap lawn mower blades that I would like to cut into crude garden tools.  I have a 
>old (and powerful) table saw and thought that with a couple of cuts it should be possible.
This sounds like a bad idea. A radial arm saw or miterbox saw would be
OK. The work should be clamped in place and the saw moved over
it.Using  a handheld circular saw is OK but dangerous and slow for
thick metal.
-John
>Thanks for any help,
>Brad
>



From kish@browncow.com Thu May 23 14:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 28556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Recommend book on metal forming techniques?
Date: 21 May 1996 12:56:19 GMT
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
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Can anyone recommend a good text (preferably still in print) on industrial
metalforming techniques. I would like to get some ideas on how to reproduce 
brackets, etc. for antique cars, mostly lighter then 10ga steel. I don't have
the big presses, but I'm hoping to adapt the techniques to small scale.


			Thanks!


			   -Bill



From cthomas162@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cthomas162@aol.com (CThomas162)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB 8" Dial Calipers in good condition.
Date: 21 May 1996 09:07:29 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hi;

 Does anyone out there have an extra 8 inch caliper (brown & sharpe,
Mitotoyu
 etc) thats in good shape that they'd like to sell? If so, please email me
with details and price.



 Thanks;


 C.W. THomas

 Sig under construction...


From cthomas162@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cthomas162@aol.com (CThomas162)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB Machinists square with protractor and center finder.
Date: 21 May 1996 09:10:17 -0400
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Hi;

 After looking at the Enco catalog I thought I might ask if someone out
there might have an old but in good shape square with a centerfinder and a
protracter
 that they'ed like to sell. If so please email me with details and price.


 Thanks;


 C.W. Thomas

 Sig under construction...


From swensen@laminar.tdl.com Thu May 23 14:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: swensen@laminar.tdl.com (John Swensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wire bender design
Date: 19 May 1996 17:33:55 GMT
Organization: John A. Swensen
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References: <4nea65$7a3@access2.digex.net>
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To: gmayner@access2.digex.net (G. Mayner)

I have the K&S Mini Wire Bender (K&S) Engineering, 6917 West St.,
Chicago, IL 60638 (312) 586-8503. I bought mine from a (model-airplane-oriented)
hobby shop, and it works well.

It consits of two parts: the first is a 3/8" x 1" x 1.5" block of steel with two
pins, each .875" long, one .25" and the other .185" in diameter. The pins are
pressed into holes about .5" apart. This block with pins is clamped into a vise.

The other part is a 1/4" x 1/2" x 6" bar with a rubber handle on one end, a .25"
hole at the other end, and a .185" x .5" pin pressed into a hole centered about
.325 from the .25" hole, towards the rubber handle. This bar is used to bend the
wire.

Hope this helps.

John Swensen

In article <4nea65$7a3@access2.digex.net>, gmayner@access2.digex.net (G. Mayner) writes:
|> 
|> I am looking for a plan for a with bender or the name of some firm that
|> sells them.  As I remember they have two pins that hold the wire on one
|> part of the tool.  The other half of the tool is hinged and has one pin to
|> bend the wire.
|> 
|> 
|> Suggestions?
|> 
|> 
|> Garry


From dsa@socom.COM Thu May 23 14:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 28560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "D. St-Amand" <dsa@socom.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for "Spiral tube machine"
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 13:34:08 -0500
Organization: Socom
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** Urgent request for the following **

Spiral tube machine up to 8 feet diameter preferably those makes: "Lips" 
or "spirex". Must be in good condition, complete with all tooling and 
ready to work.

Please answer on both fax and email address.
Fax: 514 636 3221
Quebec, Canada.


From douglas@praxis.net Thu May 23 14:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: douglas@praxis.net (Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get copywrite stamp?
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 01:59:49 GMT
Organization: DOUGLAS - Custom Goldsmith
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blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki) wrote:

>:Where can I get a metal stamp that had the copywrite logo (C in a circle)
>:to stamp my artwork?

>:Blake
>:Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>:>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
>:http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake

I got mine from:

HARPER Manf. Co.
3050 Westwood Drive #B-5
Las Vegas, Nevada, 89109
1-800-776-8407

Hope this helps.



Respectfully,

Douglas

Amulets, Talismans and Metaphysical Jewels

          http://galaxymall.com/shops/douglas.html



From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Questions for Steamboaters
Date: 21 May 1996 07:39:49 -0700
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	Hi, gang! I'm trying to get some idea of typical stack sizes, 
i.e. what i.d. of stack for what length and for what hp of boiler. If you 
know these figures for your boat, please email me with the numbers. 
	TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From rogerpjr@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 28563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerpjr@ix.netcom.com(Roger V. Petrella Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: bench top sandblast cabinet
Date: 19 May 1996 19:01:27 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I want to build a small bench top snadblast cabinet for hobby use on
small items like train parts, etc.  The prices of these things are
atrocious.  Does anyone have an idea on where I can obtain the nozzle
section, preferably one with interchangeable tips for different grits
and materials.  I want to be able to use both glass and aluminum oxide.

Roger Petrella
Broomfield, CO

rogerpjr@ix.netcom.com


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Thu May 23 14:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brazing without acetelene questions
Message-ID: <23841@storm.LakeheadU.Ca>
Date: 19 May 1996 21:04:34 GMT
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>For cutting acetelene lacks the heat content the other 
>gasses and they are far less expensive in gas usage as well 
>as cutting much cleaner. 

Gordon, since that statement is contrary to what I've always 
thought, could you please elaborate on it?  I've been using 
acetylene for 20 years and have never had any problem with 
cutting until I start using it on plates over 4" thick. I 
can't seem to get my speed slow enough when going freehand 
and half the time there is simply no way to run a tracked 
cutter on the piece.

Post some of the gasses / temps that you are basing your 
statements on. I would like to try some of these fuels if I 
like what you post. Price would only be a problem if it's 
more than double acetylene.

Thanks 
Don


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: 21 May 1996 15:23:49 GMT
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To: dbryant@lockheed.on.ca

Backlash in leadscrews is normal; it's not necessarily
a problem.  Just always approach work from one direction
and, if you go too far, be sure to back up beyond the range
of the backlash and then approach the point from the
original direction.  This is standard operating procedure
with leadscrews.

For example, if you want to move 2.25" and you accidentally
go to 2.30", back up to 2.1" or whatever it takes to get 
beyond the backlash and then approach 2.25" from the original 
direction again.  You can't just back up from 2.30" to 2.25"
and have it come out right, unless you have zero-backlash
ball screws or something.  Or a DRO with separate linear
scales.  Both of those are big bucks though, and unnecessary
if you use proper technique as described above.




From mreiney@hevanet.com Thu May 23 14:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 28566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mreiney@hevanet.com (miker in Tigard, OR.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,pdx.forsale,pnw.forsale
Subject: WTB very small milling machine
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:07:47 GMT
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Wanted small milling machine.
Something like a Unimat or Sherline would do just fine.
A lathe/mill combination like a Smithy would also work.
Thanks, miker



From gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu Thu May 23 14:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu (COUGER GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brazing without acetelene questions
Date: 19 May 1996 22:42:04 GMT
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In article <23841@storm.lakeheadu.ca>,
Don Clarke <dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca> wrote:
>
>>For cutting acetelene lacks the heat content the other 
>>gasses and they are far less expensive in gas usage as well 
>>as cutting much cleaner. 
>
>Gordon, since that statement is contrary to what I've always 
>thought, could you please elaborate on it?  I've been using 
>acetylene for 20 years and have never had any problem with 
>cutting until I start using it on plates over 4" thick. I 
>can't seem to get my speed slow enough when going freehand 
>and half the time there is simply no way to run a tracked 
>cutter on the piece.
>
>Post some of the gasses / temps that you are basing your 
>statements on. I would like to try some of these fuels if I 
>like what you post. Price would only be a problem if it's 
>more than double acetylene.
>
Acetylene is much hotter than propane but does not put out as much
heat as propane. Heat and temperture are not the same thing. 

I too have used Acetylene for cutting but it is more expensive than propane
or mapp. Both propane and MAP leave a cleaner cut than Acetylene. Both of
them make the oxygen go farther than it will with acetylene. I think that
this is due to the chemistry of the flame. 

Acetylene on the other hand is much easier to control and much easier to
light than propane or MAP. It does a much better job brazing than LPG, again
I beleive it is due to the chemestry of the flame. LPG had been almost a 
total failure for weilding steel. Again due to the flame chemistry.

The only place I used LPG over acetylene was in production cutting with a
pattern torch. If I was doing it now I would use a plasma torch. 

On thick steel I think some of the LPG with additives will work much better
on the thick stuff. As I recall in ship yards they cut thick steel with an
oxygen lance. I think it was a peice of steel pipe running pure O2. They made
a puddle on the edge of the sheet and heated the end of the lance and turned
the O2 on and the preheat tourch off. I thing that the lance was consumed
as it cut. It's been a lot of years since I researched this. Maby some one
can help.

Gordon

Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu


From writt@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 19 May 1996 19:04:14 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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A short time ago  MSC had a 4" import vise on sale for  $54.??. If  anyone
remembers this can they please give me the catalog number? TIA.

Bill Rittner


From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 28569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool post grinder
Date: 19 May 1996 23:38:30 GMT
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Metal Lathe Accessories has plans and castings for a tool post grinder, if that ones too dear 
or involved try mounting a die grinder up in an oak block on your tool post. Bob



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Date: 19 May 1996 23:42:13 GMT
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The [my] capacity to screwup alway amazes me. Bob



From bharbour@teleport.com Thu May 23 14:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bharbour@teleport.com (Bob Harbour)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bench top sandblast cabinet
Date: 19 May 1996 23:43:27 GMT
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Roger V. Petrella Jr. (rogerpjr@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I want to build a small bench top snadblast cabinet for hobby use on
: small items like train parts, etc.  The prices of these things are
: atrocious.  Does anyone have an idea on where I can obtain the nozzle
: section, preferably one with interchangeable tips for different grits
: and materials.  I want to be able to use both glass and aluminum oxide.

Try a Home Depot or a Home Base. In with the other air tools, they usually 
have a sand blaster kit. The one I got cost about $20 and came with a gun, 
a dip tube and hose, and several nozzles. I have put a few hundred pounds
of screened playsand through mine and haven't needed to change a nozzle. I 
am using a 2 hp compressor, and it is a little marginal.
 
-- Bob Harbour
bharbour@teleport.com 


From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 19 May 1996 23:52:00 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
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So whats the "good" alloy to use in say motor mounts, 7075 looks good for strenth but is it in 
the long haul? Bob



From goldstar@1stop.com Thu May 23 14:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 28573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Bickers <goldstar@1stop.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bench top sandblast cabinet
Date: 20 May 1996 00:01:30 GMT
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I found both at local supplyer of sandblast suppies, check your yellow pages. Bob 



From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: 20 May 1996 00:07:58 GMT
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In message <319F461F.651E@lockheed.on.ca> - Doug Bryant
<dbryant@lockheed.on.ca>Sun, 19 May 1996 09:02:39 -0700 writes:
:->
:->I have an imported milling machine with sloppy lead screw nuts (over 15 
:->thou backlash).  To fix the problem I designed and built a set of 
:->anti-backlash nuts that automatically take up any backlash.  They work 
:->very well as I can now do climb milling with no problems.  The only 
:->backlash is about one thou most likely due to the space between thrust 
:->bearings and the leadscrew handle.

015 isn't that much, a friend of mine has a Bridgeport built in the
early '50s, it has about .040 backlash in the screws, and he has no
problems with it.

:->
:->I expected I might run into a problem if the leadscrew pitch varied even 
:->slightly or if the thread/root thickness varied.  Turns out there are 
:->slight variations which causes some binding in certain areas.  I've tried 
:->making the threads uniform by filing the flanks of the "thick" threads 
:->but had no luck with this.
:->
:->Does anyone know of a good source for accurate lead screws?  I'm also 
:->interested in outfitting the machine with a DRO. Anybody know where I can 
:->get these and about how much the encoders (preferably linear) and DRO 
:->would cost?

The same guy put DRO on the Bport last year(I installed it for him)
cost was about $us1200 for X + Y axis, no Z axis, it works great. He
especially like the 'bolt circle' function of it. (for the life of me
I can't think of what brand it is tho...) For better leadscrews, you
could possibly have some made, or go to ballscrews.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 20 May 1996 01:31:23 GMT
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BILL:

CALL 1-800-645-7270 (MSC)

ASK FOR EXTENSION 4126 (RICH)

WISH YOU LUCK.

-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From greghodge@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: greghodge@aol.com (GregHodge)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Coordinating motion of several motors
Date: 19 May 1996 21:54:17 -0400
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Breshenham line algorythm (sp?)


From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 28577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bench top sandblast cabinet
Date: 20 May 1996 01:47:47 GMT
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To: rogerpjr@ix.netcom.com

I've  tried what you are describing, and by the time I built a box the 
correct size, connected the hoses and gun and a clear acrylic window, I'd 
spent about 2/3 of what a cheap one from Harbor Freight cost, and it 
didn't work well (spewed sand and grit out the armholes, destroyed the 
acrylic window, and didn't drain the accumulated sand very well.

    Then I popped for the Harbor Freight benchtop unit with replaceable 
plastic shields (to protect the window) for about $90 on sale.  It does 
all of those things quite well.  (get the extra package of shields for  7 
or $8 (?)

    One hint, though:  almost all of these come with inexpensive 
"gravity" type sandblaster guns.  You will _never_ be satisfied with a 
gravity-feed system unless you are using very fine, very dry, virgin 
sand, using it about once and throwing it away. Even then, you will be 
stopping and fiddling with the sand-feed nozzle more than sandblasting.  
For another $150 you can get an inexpensive pressure-type sandblaster and 
if you have the compressor capacity, you can blast without stopping, but 
better yet you get done in a flash on any moderate job.  A frustrating 
1/2 hour ordeal with a gravity=type gun is about a five-minute breeze 
with even a small pressure-pot type.  You _do_ need at least a 3 hp 
compressor with a 20-gal+ tank to sandblast effectively, and more is 
better.

    I haven't yet found a difference between the inexpensive pressure-pot 
blasters for under $200 and the dimilar-sized units from the "retail" 
hobby outfits for $3-400.  Don't think there is any.

    And yes, there are different sized nozzles though I tend to use the 
same one and regulate airflow instead.  It will handle everything I've 
pushed through it and the ceramic tip is replaceable (wears out 
eventually).  A very effective home-made blaster I saw used plain 
galvanized pipe and a standard steel lever (90 degree on/off) -type valve 
with a small (3/8"?) nozzle, replaaceable by screwing in and out.

     A gratuitous observation: wear good arm protection.  The heavy 
gloves in these cabinets are necessary.  After blasting without them only 
once, I spent a couple of months with silica particles chronically 
resurfacing on my forearms, which looked like skin cancer or something 
and made me feel even stupider than I already did.



From rcook@BIX.com Thu May 23 14:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 6" shaper (was surface grinding on a whatever)
Date: 20 May 1996 02:04:18 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 13
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Alan D. Bartz wrote:
>
>Joseph,
>I called our main branch library and they looked up the Nov 1928 issue
>and faxed the article on the 6" shaper to my local branch.  What a
>great article.  I 4 pages they show the entire project, drawings,
>casting process...  Wish I had more projects like this.
>
>regards,
>
I don't suppose we could convince you to share the wealth? :-)

--RC


From dbryant@lockheed.on.ca Thu May 23 14:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Bryant <dbryant@lockheed.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:14:40 -0700
Organization: Lockheed Martin Canada Inc.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <319FFFC0.3A1C@lockheed.on.ca>
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Peter Drumm wrote:
> 015 isn't that much, a friend of mine has a Bridgeport built in the
> early '50s, it has about .040 backlash in the screws, and he has no
> problems with it.
> Unfortunately, I experienced catastophic results when climb milling at 
0.015 backlash.  I like the option of climb milling on occasion as it 
often leaves a better surface finish.  Also having only a thou or two 
backlash makes it much easier to re-establish a position as I don't have 
to remember to subtract or add backlash to my destination reading.

> The same guy put DRO on the Bport last year(I installed it for him)
> cost was about $us1200 for X + Y axis, no Z axis, it works great. He
> especially like the 'bolt circle' function of it. (for the life of me
> I can't think of what brand it is tho...) For better leadscrews, you
> could possibly have some made, or go to ballscrews.
> That's a bit rich for me.  Sort of like putting a $50 saddle on a $10 
horse!!  I've done a fair bit of digital electronics work before so I 
might try to make some of my own components.  I have found a place that 
sells the "raw" encoder i.e. it isn't packaged so I'd have to make a shop 
proof enclosure.

I don't think ball screws are an option as I want to maintain manual 
feed.  Ball screws usually have to be made with a fairly coarse lead so 
they tend to be non-locking.

Thanks for your help.  If you have any other thoughts on the above let me 
know.

Doug


From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 28580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this "oil burner can thing?"
Date: 20 May 1996 02:25:27 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4nol6n$9v4@dopey.magg.net>
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To: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu

     Well, whaddya know.  I knew they were too good a deal to pass up.  
As you say, this sounds like it would fire a blast furnace or a smelter 
rather than a small aluminum/bronze foundry.  I may yet give it a try, 
though.    I think I can block out a row or two of nozzle-orifices (kind 
of two rows inside a third, larger row.  It's worht doing, even if just 
to have the only jet-powered metal foundry in town.  I may try powering 
it with a small shop-vac.  

     Imagine what that's going to sound like!

     If all else fails, I'll think of something to do with all that 
titanium.  At $1 apiece (really -- I think that's what I paid; somebody's 
wife obviously told him not to bring them home again) they are such a 
great find that I have to use them or at least keep them until _I_ get an 
ultimatum.

     Now if I can just figure out what to do with that DC-3 gear actuator 
cylinder... lift my workshop door??



From v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu Thu May 23 14:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: 19 May 1996 05:08 EST
Organization: University at Buffalo
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 I have a brass nameplate that I want to mount to a flat laquered
painted steel surface. I would like to use a thin strong 
double sided adhesive film, since it eliminate much of the mess and
can be cut to size. Any suggestions? 

	Neil Gandler



From response@mail.winternet.com Thu May 23 14:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Allan Anderson <response@mail.winternet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machinery prime and paint?
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:12:43 -0700
Organization: Response Computing, Inc.
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I just bought a grimey, slightly rusty old Walker-Turner
2 head drill press (that works well enough). I'm cleaning
it up and want to paint it to prevent future rust.

I'd really appreciate some pointers about how to get a 
solid paint job. I've got some machinery gray Spray-on brand
Acrylic Enamel (for machinery) and I was thinking of getting some 
primer for automotive use. Someone suggested a cleaning with 
phosphoric acid to neutralize any active rust (news to me...)

Anyone know how to do this right (well, as best I can in 
my home garage without spray equipment)...

I'd appreciate your comments....

Thanks!

-------------------------------------------------
Allan Anderson
Response Computing, Inc.
3701 East Minnehaha Parkway
Minneapolis, MN 55417


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 28583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 6" shaper (was surface grinding on a whatever)
Date: 20 May 1996 04:53:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4nojv2$c5s@news2.delphi.com> rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes: 
>
>Alan D. Bartz wrote:
>>
>>Joseph,
>>I called our main branch library and they looked up the Nov 1928
issue
>>and faxed the article on the 6" shaper to my local branch.  What a
>>great article.  I 4 pages they show the entire project, drawings,
>>casting process...  Wish I had more projects like this.
>>
>>regards,
>>
>I don't suppose we could convince you to share the wealth? :-)
>
>--RC
Sure, RC,

Check with your local library.  The Columbus Metro Library only does
the over the phone service for their library card holders however.

Alan


From adam@ihug.co.nz Thu May 23 14:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adam@ihug.co.nz (Brian Adam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 05:05:40 GMT
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On 15 May 1996 00:40:30 GMT, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) said:

>:...What's all this talk about melting
>: down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
>: exactly is in them!

>Well, a fair number of us....  The base is *very* pure silicon,
>while the dopants (which make the transistors) are in the ppb to ppm
>range.  

Thanks. It's starting to make sense, then. Stiil, my source is a
foundry and the silicon I get from them is in chunk form, easily
broken up with a hammer to get small pieces. $14/kilo does me for a
while. I've saved the comments on this thread in case I ever need to
know. Thanks.
Brian


--
Brian Adam    - on RiscPC -     <adam@ihug.co.nz>



From clear@vnet.ibm.com Thu May 23 14:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clear@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Visiting NY Next Week
Date: 20 May 1996 06:47:23 GMT
Organization: The Bear's Lair
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Hi - a couple of days ago I found out that I'm going to be in New York next
weekend and would like to know if there's anything happening in the live
steam scene while I'm there.  Isn't the last Monday in May Memorial Day?

Anyone who knows anything about live steamers in New York or Poughkeepsie,
send me a note at:
        clear@vnet.ibm.com

Email preferred, I don't get the time to monitor the newsgroup these days...

Regards
  Charlie Lear
  Hutt Valley Model Engineering Soc, Wellington, New Zealand



From awallace@adelaide.on.net Thu May 23 14:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: awallace@adelaide.on.net (Allan Wallace)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Oscillating Steam Engine for Paddle Steamer
Date: 19 May 1996 13:19:57 GMT
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I'm looking for any designs for a double acting twin cylinder
oscillating steam engine suitable for driving a model
river boat (side wheeler as was commonly used on the
River Murray in Australia).


From klaas@uniface.nl Thu May 23 14:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 28587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: [Q] Wire-drawing: how to keep end tapered ?
Date: 20 May 1996 11:25:17 GMT
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During drawing wire (silver, gold or Cu-Ni alloys) one end (which should be
put through the drawplate) should be kept tapered to allow entering into the
drawplate. Each few holes I file it off to keep it tapered, but when it's
smaller than 1.0 mm (I am not familiar with gauges) diameter it is *very hard*
and refiling is necessary after *each* hole.
Can somebody help me with other ideas to keep it tapered ?

Klaas



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question - Lathe tool height
Date: 20 May 1996 12:37:03 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com

Yes, you'll probably need to shim the height.  Get some .010",
005", and .002" feeler gauge stock and keep a few pieces of 
each around; then you can easily build up any height without 
much difficulty.  (In theory I suppose you might need some 
001" stock to get it within .001" of center, but I strongly
suspect .002" is close enough!)

You don't need the angled tool holders; the old "Armstrong"
style tool holders have a built-in 10 degree angle, but in fact
I think you're better off without it. If you need that angle on
the toolbit, grind it.  In fact, there are some Armstrong tool
holders designed for carbide that don't have that angle built
into them.

Incidently, I think you would be better off using high-speed
steel for most things instead of carbide.  A small lathe simply
isn't rigid enough to take advantage of carbide.  HSS is much
more suitable, and works fine.

Recommended reading: you've got the South Bend book.  I also
like "The Amateur's Lathe," by L.H.Sparey.  It's a British book,
but available from many of the "usual" hobby suppliers.



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 20 May 1996 12:42:13 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: steamer@west.net

Well...thanks to the magic of CAD, it shouldn't be too hard to
fabricate a shrink rule at home.  Draw a ruler, then scale it
up by the appropriate factor, print it out, and glue the paper
scale to an old ruler with a coat of varnish over it to protect
it.  It ought to be plenty accurate.  I've tried measuring some
AutoCAD LT drawings printed out at allegedly 1:1 scale, and they
seem to be right on the money.



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 28590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AL Angle Stiffness
Date: 21 May 1996 19:20:15 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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As someone noted, a cast iron plate should do the job a lot better.  I have
an Enco special in about that size, and it seems reasonably well made, plus
with the extra material in the vee, it's pretty stiff.  Not sure of the
cost, but it's a whole lot less grief than adapting a chunk of structural
angle, whether steel or aluminum.

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Thu May 23 14:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 21 May 1996 19:28:22 GMT
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Anthony EPucillo (aep19@mail.magg.net) wrote:
: Do you suppose bone meal would work as well as horse hoofs?  I bought a 
: bunch of the stuff from the garden-supply department (they use it as a 
: soil additive (!) with the idea that it might work for that and other 
: purposes like an additive to casting sand (ground into flour).

Yes!

See Guy Lautard's 2nd and third Machinist's Bedside readers on how to do
pack (color) casehardening.  You can also use beans, nutshells, and
whatever to do the job.

BTW, both Power Model supplies and Coles sell Kasenite in the US.

Pete Brooks



From manmountaindense@knight-hub.com Thu May 23 14:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: manmountaindense@knight-hub.com (Bruce Holmgrain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Wire-drawing: how to keep end tapered ?
Date: 20 May 1996 13:41:00 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:12055 rec.crafts.metalworking:28592

 Each few holes I file it off to keep it tapered, but when it's
>smaller than 1.0 mm (I am not familiar with gauges) diameter it is *very hard*
>and refiling is necessary after *each* hole.
>Can somebody help me with other ideas to keep it tapered ?


I have a small, pair of flay pliers with teeth that I use at this point  
instaed of the drawtongs. The teeth on the drawtongs have a tendency to bend 
and crimp small wire.

-- 
========================================================================
http://www.knight-hub.com/manmtndense/bhh3.htm
e-mail: manmountaindense@knight-hub.com
snail mail: POB 7072, McLean, VA 22106-7972, U.S.A.



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any opinions on a quality small boring head?
Date: 20 May 1996 13:47:09 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu

>brazed carbide tips that is often sold with the head.  After some tinkering,
>I have decided that the problem is the 1/2" straight shank is too flexible!
>So, I thought that I might warn you that the #2 Morse Taper is not likely to
>be much stiffer.  A project for a rainy weekend is to make a B&S #7 arbor
>to fit the back of the boring head, and see if it does better.
>
>Of course, I could be shooting up the wrong tree, and it is really the 
>stiffness of the dovetail in the boring head that is the problem, but I
>don't think so.

No, you're right, or almost right, about the source of the problem...but the 
#2 Morse shank does in fact work considerably better than a 1/2" straight shank.  
A friend of mine went from a 1/2" shank to a #2 Morse shank and things improved, 
a lot.  I had similar problems with a 5/8" straight shank in an R8 collet, and
solved my flexing problems by going to an R8 shank.

I think the problem is the combination of straight shank + collet.  I think if
you make a B&S #7 shank for your boring head you'll be pleased by the results.



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu May 23 14:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 28594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: tapers and how to?
Message-ID: <1996May20.120434.3758@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4n2vki$dfr@kaleka.seanet.com> <4ncmb4$kuq@news-e2b.gnn.com> <4nnb5h$ndp@kaleka.seanet.com> <4nobkl$am1@kaleka.seanet.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 12:04:34 GMT
Lines: 11

In article <4nobkl$am1@kaleka.seanet.com>,
Bob Bickers  <goldstar@1stop.com> wrote:
>The [my] capacity to screwup alway amazes me. Bob

Hang around a while - some of us have the capacity to astonish you
with our ability to screw up.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From brucep@postoffice.ptd.net Thu May 23 14:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brucep@postoffice.ptd.net (Bruce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bench top sandblast cabinet
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 13:56:46 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
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Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net> wrote:


>    Then I popped for the Harbor Freight benchtop unit with replaceable 
>plastic shields (to protect the window) for about $90 on sale.  It does 
>all of those things quite well.  (get the extra package of shields for  7 
>or $8 (?)

One little hint here, I went down to the local hardware store and
bought something called flexipane its used for making windows, kinda
like mylar. I cut it the same size as my cabinet window and put it on
the inside now when I blast it etches the flexipane and not the glass
it sure  is alot cheaper buying that then saftey glass all the time I
find I get about 4hrs of blasting from one sheet. By the way I built
my own cabinet and dust collector from sheet metal if ya have a mig
welder and a friend that has a break this will save ya alot of money I
built mine for well under $200 its about 36w x 26d x 30 high next one
I am building is gonna be a tad bigger, and the dust collector is
getting an upgrade for more filter bags. Wish I had some plans for my
cabinet available but I haven't had time to sit down and finalize my
ideas. If anyone is interested in them drop me a line back via email
and maybe I'll get motivated to get them done. 

Bruce



From BBeizer@gnn.com Thu May 23 14:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wire-Drawing: how to keep ends tapered
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:06:17
Organization: GNN
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>To:	klaas@uniface.nl asks: 
 

>During drawing wire (silver, gold or Cu-Ni alloys) one end (which
>should be put through the drawplate) should be kept tapered to allow
>entering into the drawplate. Each few holes I file it off to keep it
>tapered, but when it's smaller than 1.0 mm (I am not familiar with
>gauges) diameter it is *very hard*and refiling is necessary after
>*each* hole.
>
>Can somebody help me with other ideas to keep it tapered ?

Here are prescriptions in decreasing probability order. 

1. Sounds like you're not annealing it after every few holes. 
  Usually, you can't go more than three or four holes (depends on the
  alloy) without reannealing the wire.  Depends on the alloy.  For
  white gold (e.g. Cu-Ni alloy), you might have to anneal every two
  holes or so.  The finer you get, the more often you have
  to anneal.  Also depends on the step size of your draw plate.  
  With silver you can usually go five or six holes; yellow gold is
  between.  Check the wire after every draw. If it has any springyness
  to it, time to > anneal.  

2. Are you lubricating the wire?  The typical (traditional)
  lubricant is beeswax.  After you anneal the wire (before you start
  the first draw) when it is still hot but not so hot you can't hold
  it, pull it through a beeswax cake (jewelry supply).
  Relubricate after every draw; the wire is usually hot enough
  after a fast draw to melt the beeswax. Also stuff a little beeswax
  plug into each hole from the wide end before you draw.    

3. Do not make your taper circular--keep it square.  The trick is
  to use a triangular file to make a tapered groove in your bench pin.
  You lay the wire in the groove (it acts as a cheap tapered v-block)
  and file a flat.  Turn it over, file flat, etc. Two flats are all you
  need.  Keep the taper square because your pliers have flat faces.
  When you try to draw a  circular cross-section your plier will just
  squeeze it flat anyhow and  harden it in the process.  Use a very
  fine file.  You want a smooth finish on the point.  

4. You may be trying to jerk it through the drawplate.  It takes a
  smooth pull.  This is difficult to do because the starting friction
  is much higher than the running friction.  When you get below 1mm or
  so, things **do** get dicey and indeed you may have to file a new
  point every two or so draws--especially if your draw plate
  is dull.  Make sure you have enough room behind you to complete
  the entire draw without ever stopping.  NEVER STOP, NEVER STOP.  Once
  you start drawing, go all the way in one smooth motion.  

5. Are you pulling straight on?  Your pull must be directly on to
  the axis of the hole.  Any slight upward, downward, sideway, off
  axis will drastically increase the force needed to draw and create
  big pressures on the point.  Keep your draw as perfectly aligned
  with the axis of the hole as you can.  Also see (8) below
  as a possible cause of tilt.   

6. Your drawplate could be worn out.  No repair possible.  Buy a
   new one. If it was rusty when you got it (at a flea market) it's
   totally worn and you'll have to live with reannealing and refiling
   the point frequently. 

7. What kind of pliers are you using?  The best is a special
   drawplate plier. It has a hook on the end that allows you to lock
   it with a piece of rope. Jaws are about 1 to 1.5" long and 1/2" to
   3/4" wide.  Handle is about 12-18".  That is best.  In any case, you
   should always use a flat-jaw, smooth-jaw (no serrations) plier. 
   Jaws are **soft*** steel.  Hard copper jaws are also good; some
   come with brass or bronze jaws (I like bronze jaws best for this
   job). 

8. Is your vice solid?   You need a big, solid, vice to hold the
   drawplate.  A small vice will tilt (even microscopically) and it
   means that you're not pulling directly in line with the hole.  I
   recommend nothing less than 50 pound vice with four inch or bigger
   jaws tied to a very, very solid workbench.

9. I assumed that you are pulling circular cross-section wire.  If
   square cross-section, it will be twice as difficult (possibly
   annealing after every hole for white gold), or if triangular,
   even worse.  
 
10. The drawplate numbering could be any of the following (most
    likely order)

   a. arbitrary "hole number" labeled from smallest to largest or
      the other way around.     
   b. douzieme gauge
   c. US standard wire gauge
   d. metric
   e. Any of a dozen obsolete American and/or European "wire gauges"
      not excluding some that go back to the 18th century.  

   Only sure thing is to draw wire of the same hardness (e.g., brass) 
through the holes, mike it up, and calibrate the plate.  You have to 
do that anyhow because the size of the wire after the draw will not be
the same as the hole size. For example, silver may be several thousands
under, gold over, etc.  The finished thickness of the wire can never
be judged by putting a drill blank, say, into the hole and miking that
up.  The finished thickness can be either under the hole size and more
important, ***over*** the hole size.  The finished thickness depends
on (among other things): the alloy, annealing state, speed of the draw 
(the faster the thinner), hole step size (bigger step, more under).
The point is that for soft wire you are not only drawing it through
the plate but stretching it as well (hence under).  The **over** is
caused by the metal bouncing back out after it's through the plate--
which is why you can never, never, never, pull a wire through the 
plate in the wrong direction.  

Boris
 

Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From r.lee@windshadow.com Thu May 23 14:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 28597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp23.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: EASTEC show this week
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:26:56 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <r.lee-2005961026570001@ppp23.nantucket.net>

I am off tomorow (tue May 21) am to the EASTEC show in Springfield MA 

If any of you will be at the show... let me know and perhaps we can grab a
drink... I Don't know where I am staying tue night yet... left booking a
room a bit late but I will be wandering the show Tue Aft and Wed until
about 1:30pm... 

as I am 6'3" 230lbs with a beard and waxed 'stash I am a touch easy to
spot in a crowd... I will be dressed in light grey suit and my name tag
will say

    L.Randolph Lee
        Boss
Windshadow Engineering
    Nantucket, MA

open to any thoughts on a meet with any from r.c.m that will attend. I
will check the r.c.m tue am befor I depart...


From dcrink@widomaker.com Thu May 23 14:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "David C. Rinker" <dcrink@widomaker.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Beginning Brass/Bronze casting
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:14:20 -0400 (EDT)
Organization: Widomaker Public Access Internet (804)221-8070
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I am interested in learning how to cast brass and bronze--specifically 
for model making.  I have been unable to find any leads on the net so
thought I'd try old USENET standby.  

Do any of you know of any comprehensive guides on the subject (either 
lost-wax or sand)?  I have absolutely no experience in this area and plan 
on spending several months (at least) in study before venturing any type of 
experimentation--I would rather have too many books than too few. 

If anybody out there does casting, what tips would you offer a novice? 

I apologize if this has been asked recently but my service provider is 
erratic in offering USENET access.

Thanks,

David 


From speff@io.org Thu May 23 14:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 20 May 1996 16:39:34 GMT
Organization: Internex Online (shell.io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4nq786$qii@news1.io.org>
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) wrote:
: Well...thanks to the magic of CAD, it shouldn't be too hard to
: fabricate a shrink rule at home.  Draw a ruler, then scale it
: up by the appropriate factor, print it out, and glue the paper
: scale to an old ruler with a coat of varnish over it to protect
: it.  It ought to be plenty accurate.  I've tried measuring some
: AutoCAD LT drawings printed out at allegedly 1:1 scale, and they
: seem to be right on the money.

If you really want to make an accurate rule, just do it in Acad,
(for example), shrink it, then use PSOUT to get a Postscript file,
take that to your local service bureau and get paper (or film, which
would be more accurate, but less convenient to use), and then work
with that- laminate it as Steve suggests. You can get several 
onto a letter size page, perhaps with different shrink factors or
whatever. The output costs around US$6-7 per page around here depending 
on whether you want film or paper etc. 

Do try it out on a Postscript laser printer before you waste time 
trucking it off, though, just in case. 

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=










From powers@brain.cis.ohio-state.edu Thu May 23 14:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 28600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: powers@brain.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 20 May 1996 13:09:10 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <4nq8vmINNik0@brain.cis.ohio-state.edu>
References: <4nlepf$1cg@dopey.magg.net> <4nn7h6$3ok@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: brain.cis.ohio-state.edu

>>Do you suppose bone meal would work as well as horse hoofs?  I bought a 
>>bunch of the stuff from the garden-supply department (they use it as a 
>>soil additive (!) with the idea that it might work for that and other 
>>purposes like an additive to casting sand (ground into flour).
>
>Be cxareful using bone meal that has any nitrogen added to it.  If it
>chars to produce carbon and the nitrates in it  at high temps , like in a
>kiln, could cause an explosion (ingredients for gunpowder).

I have had no problems using a mixture of bone meal, blood meal and powdered
charcoal----used a section of SS pipe for the "case" and a *large* bonfire
for the heat; of course I was working with wrought iron.....

>I do the old fashioned pack carburizing.
>>>>>method deleted<<<<   
>This is described in Guy Lautard's Machinist Bedside reader.  Don't
>remember which version.   Buy all three, they are great reading for the
>"throne room"

For a real *old* fashioned method of carburizing, Theophilus 
describes a method of carburizing that consists of greasing the piece
with lard, wrapping it in leather, covering the leather with clay,
and heating the whole shebang! (Divers Arts, circa 1122 AD, another great
"throne room read")

>Cecil 

Thomas;
Columbus, Ohio


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: South Bend Address
Date: 20 May 1996 16:33:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon May 20 11:33:15 AM CDT 1996

I need to contact South Bend tool company.  Could someone e-mail their
address to me.

Thanks

Alan



From JOSEPHM@AZSTARNET.COM Thu May 23 14:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: JOSEPHM@AZSTARNET.COM (J. P. Mucenski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking To BUY
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 21:26:33 GMT
Organization: Arizona Daily Star - AZSTARNET
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I'm looking for a 5" 3jaw (Buck type) Chuck), will take a GOOD 3 or 4
Jaw if approiate.  Will be used w/Dididing Head.
Please respond via Email.
Thanks 
Joe


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 28603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 20 May 1996 19:23:21 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4nqgr9$2oq@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
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CBear81438 (cbear81438@aol.com) wrote:
: In article <4nlepf$1cg@dopey.magg.net>, Anthony EPucillo
: <aep19@mail.magg.net> writes:

: >Do you suppose bone meal would work as well as horse hoofs?  I bought a 
: >bunch of the stuff from the garden-supply department (they use it as a 
: >soil additive (!) with the idea that it might work for that and other 
: >purposes like an additive to casting sand (ground into flour).
: >
: >

: Be cxareful using bone meal that has any nitrogen added to it.  If it
: chars to produce carbon and the nitrates in it  at high temps , like in a
: kiln, could cause an explosion (ingredients for gunpowder).

I don't think there's cause for worry here. It's not the nitrogen that
is a worry, but the oxygen that's found in nitrates. And making black
powder requires more than mixing carbon and nitrates. 

--mike


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: question - Lathe tool height
Date: 20 May 1996 19:26:18 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
Lines: 25
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Walt Slominski (walt.slominski@daytonoh.attgis.com) wrote:

: I am new to metalworking - The Southbend book indicates that the tool point
: should be at the center of the work that is being turned.
: The four way tool post on my 9x20 Jet does not have a height adj. and the 1/2"
: square tool is a little below center. Should I shim the tool to the correct
: hieght?

You can, yes.

: Also the tool holder cannot be tilted - the book shows most cutters at an
: angle to the work.

: The tools I am using are 1/2" square carbide tipped (80 degree point and
: square tip).

These tools are probably designed to run at 90 degrees to the work.

: How about some recomended reading.

South Bend's old "How To Run A Lathe" (reprints available from Lindsay;
originals available in every used bookstore I've ever been in!), plus
Guy Lautard's "Machinist's Bedside Reader", vol. 1,2 and 3.

--mike


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 28605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: 20 May 1996 19:33:49 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4nqhet$2oq@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
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John Jeannette (jjette@sundial.net) wrote:
: On 18 May 1996 03:16:07 GMT, Brad Meiners <meinersb@magpage.com>
: wrote:
: >Where could I buy such a wheel for a circular saw?  A seach in my town and on the Net has 
: >yielded nothing.
[snip]
: This sounds like a bad idea. A radial arm saw or miterbox saw would be
: OK. The work should be clamped in place and the saw moved over
: it.Using  a handheld circular saw is OK but dangerous and slow for
: thick metal.

Agreed. An abrasive cutoff wheel in a hand-held saw will very likely shatter
into a large number of pieces of high-speed shrapnel.

--mike


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Thu May 23 14:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <191@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <4nl4hi$7n9@acme.sb.west.net> <L8IgsGAAfjnxEwW4@br13jl.demon.co.uk><4nnea9$hp1@acme.sb.west.net>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 20:09:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Lines: 14

 
In article <4nnea9$hp1@acme.sb.west.net>, Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) writes:
>Andrew Mawson (andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk) wrote:
>: Why can you not draw the scale in Autocad or some other CAD package,
>: print onto acetate sheet, and phot0-lith onto a strip of suitable brass.
>       --Hey, if I had the bucks to buy Autocad I wouldn't be bitchin' 
>about $122.- ....
>-- 

..or how about a ruler, black ink, and letraset? Draw it to exact
size, or maybe twice the size and reduce it.  Then copy onto
acetate sheet, etc. Slow, but sure.

 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From knight@ka1dt.ultranet.com Thu May 23 14:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave Knight <knight@ka1dt.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: identify this device
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:03:38 -0400
Organization: UltraNet Communications, Inc.
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Michael Edelman wrote:
> a 3" diameter brass cylinder with a a floating piston, . . .

If it looks like you could attach a paper chart to the cylinder and
it has a pen or scriber that could mark the paper, it might be a steam
engine "indicator".

An indicator is used to graphically show the power curve of an engine
for calculating power/efficiency of an operating engine. . .

Dave.


From johnco1@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 28608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnco1@ix.netcom.com(John M Caro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Wire-drawing: how to keep end tapered ?
Date: 20 May 1996 23:44:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4npspc$fgj@news.cais.com> manmountaindense@knight-hub.com (Bruce
Holmgrain) writes: 
>
> Each few holes I file it off to keep it tapered, but when it's
>>smaller than 1.0 mm (I am not familiar with gauges) diameter it is
*very hard*
>>and refiling is necessary after *each* hole.
>>Can somebody help me with other ideas to keep it tapered ?
>
>
>I have a small, pair of flay pliers with teeth that I use at this
point  
>instaed of the drawtongs. The teeth on the drawtongs have a tendency
to bend 
>and crimp small wire.
>
>-- 
>======================================================================
=
>http://www.knight-hub.com/manmtndense/bhh3.htm
>e-mail: manmountaindense@knight-hub.com
>snail mail: POB 7072, McLean, VA 22106-7972, U.S.A.
>
  But you'll still have to keep filing every couple of holes 
Although it is easier with a draw plate with more holes with smaller
graduations.
 John Caro



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Thu May 23 14:19:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: 3D printing
Message-ID: <1996May20.214829.6555@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <319B3424.569F@media.mit.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:48:29 GMT
Lines: 42

In article <319B3424.569F@media.mit.edu>,
Matthew Brand  <brand@media.mit.edu> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with 3D printing in metal? (e.g., laser
>sintering of metal powders)  Does this produce extremely brittle
>objects?  I need to create some relatively flat but precisely looped
>wire structures, probably not more than 20cm x 10cm x 1cm bounding box,
>of course mostly empty space.  Any idea about cost, fab time, surface
>smoothness?

Since no one else has spoken up, I'll put in my $.02.  3D litho is
pretty common as long as you're looking at plastic litho.  Metal
powder litho is barely out of the prototype stage.  You might check with
some of the folks who do hot isostatic pressing and see if they are
getting into this process or know who does.

You might lookup a shop that can do the plastic litho and see if you
can't get a plastic that you with which you could do a more
traditional investment casting.  I suspect that this will be a 
more cost effective approach.

You might be interested in reading what appears to be an interesting 
introductory paper on this process on:

http://www.cadcam.kth.se/public/computer/fff/general_rp/lenaak/paper.html

I know that Sandia Labs has a lot going in this area as well, but
can't find anything available.

You might also consider calling 

	Fused Deposition Modeling
	Stratasys, Inc
	Eden Prairie, MN
	612-937-3000

They can do something with an iron-copper powder - perhaps that'll do
for what you want.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From kimberln@crl.com Thu May 23 14:19:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What do you call this machine  ?
Date: 20 May 1996 16:58:46 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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Message-ID: <4nr0vm$f7n@crl11.crl.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl11.crl.com

In article <4nq82u$qii@news1.io.org>, Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org> wrote:
>I bought a machine a few years ago at an auction that appears to perform 
>a rather unusual function. It looks like a floor-standing press with a 
>foot lever. The head has a place for a tool of some kind. When actuated, 
>the tool presses down on the work, rotates and hammers. 
>
>I think the purpose is to head over the ends of pins on contacts or 
>whatever to retain them into a flat sheet. The manufacturer's name isn't 
>visible 'cause the thing has been repainted so many times, but I could 
>put paint remover to it and get to it. 
>
>Anyone know what this machine is called, and (more importantly) where can 
>I get tools for it? I would imagine they look like a chisel with a 
>round shank. 
>
>Thanks for any ideas!
>
>--
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
>speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
>Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

The machine is a riveting machine.  The die that is on the top is formed 
to the shape of the intended rivet head.  The bottom die, if any, is 
shaped to fit the other rivet head. 

JerryK


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Thu May 23 14:19:33 EDT 1996
Article: 28611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: 22 May 1996 01:23:03 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 4
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References: <19MAY199605081909@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu>
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3M makes an adhesive with a backing that is about.004 in. thick  I have 
used it for metal, wood, paper (paper goes first).  I can't remember the 
number but I think that it was designed for the printing trade.  "CC"



From writt@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 20 May 1996 23:29:21 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4noi1b$ef0@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, UTJP04A@prodigy.com
(Paul Pierce) writes:

>CALL 1-800-645-7270 (MSC)
>
>ASK FOR EXTENSION 4126 (RICH)
>
>WISH YOU LUCK.
>
>

Why would  I  need luck?
Bill


From jwcercis@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Sheetmetal Bending Die Set
Date: 20 May 1996 23:32:09 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Small “Press Brake” die set for bending sheetmetal
Designed for use in an arbor press, but would probably work equally well
in
     a hydraulic press
Four post die set; 6.25 by 4 inches; 4.125 wide between posts; spring lift
Three hardened and ground 4.5 inch wide dies for bending 45, 90, and 135 
      degree angles
This came with a used arbor press I bought, but I have very limited use
for it.
Asking $35 plus UPS charge

Please reply to jwcercis@aol.com


From jsp@u.washington.edu Thu May 23 14:19:34 EDT 1996
Article: 28614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:36:02 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960520203416.2532A-100000@saul1.u.washington.edu>
References: <4nl4hi$7n9@acme.sb.west.net> <L8IgsGAAfjnxEwW4@br13jl.demon.co.uk> <4nnea9$hp1@acme.sb.west.net>
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To: Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>
In-Reply-To: <4nnea9$hp1@acme.sb.west.net>

How about just making a copy of a machinists ruler on a Xerox machine with
the right amount of zoom.........
				Cheers,

On 19 May 1996, Edward Haas wrote:

> Andrew Mawson (andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk) wrote:
> : Why can you not draw the scale in Autocad or some other CAD package,
> : print onto acetate sheet, and phot0-lith onto a strip of suitable brass.
> 	--Hey, if I had the bucks to buy Autocad I wouldn't be bitchin'
> about $122.- ....
> --
> 	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
> 	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
> 	http://www.west.net/~steamer
> 		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>
>
>



From nealwinters@cyberia.com Thu May 23 14:19:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nealwinters@cyberia.com (Neal E. Winters)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: [Q] Want silver alloy other than Ag-Cu : how to make ?
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 03:38:45 GMT
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References: <4m2avg$d9@news.knoware.nl> <4m85bv$3ec@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <4macc8$gd@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com> <4n2q09$5r9@newsource.ihug.co.nz> <4nb95u$i6b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <4np239$bd@newsource.ihug.co.nz>
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adam@ihug.co.nz (Brian Adam) wrote:

>On 15 May 1996 00:40:30 GMT, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) said:

>>:...What's all this talk about melting
>>: down computer silicon chips to alloy with silver! Who knows what
>>: exactly is in them!

>>Well, a fair number of us....  The base is *very* pure silicon,
>>while the dopants (which make the transistors) are in the ppb to ppm
>>range.  

>Thanks. It's starting to make sense, then. Stiil, my source is a
>foundry and the silicon I get from them is in chunk form, easily
>broken up with a hammer to get small pieces. $14/kilo does me for a
>while. I've saved the comments on this thread in case I ever need to
>know. Thanks.
>Brian


>--
>Brian Adam    - on RiscPC -     <adam@ihug.co.nz>




A Little Zinc  helps the flow and leeps it white.




From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Thu May 23 14:19:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!winternet.com!n1ott.istar!uniserve!van-bc!vanbc!mfraser
From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Milling Macnine
Date: 21 May 1996 04:12:05 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
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References: <31A1228B.5ADD@interramp.com>
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What's wrong with Sherline up in San Marcos?

/mark

Pardalis (pardalis@interramp.com) wrote:
: I'm looking to purchase a Shirline 5410 Milling machine.  Where is the 
: best place to buy this machine?  I live in San Diego.  Any help would be 
: appreciated.  thanks, Dna


From CREDITWEB@NEONT.COM Thu May 23 14:19:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: CREDITWEB@NEONT.COM
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting
Subject: Re: FIX YOUR OWN CREDIT...
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 05:52:22 GMT
Organization: CyberGate, Inc.
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creditweb@neont.com (CreditWeb) wrote:

>DON'T PAY ANYONE TO FIX YOUR CREDIT.  FIX IT YOURSELF.

COMMERCIAL POSTINGS ARE NOT ALLOWED!!!!!!!!!!!!
read the faqs CREDIT WEB!!!!!



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Thu May 23 14:19:35 EDT 1996
Article: 28618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 21 May 1996 04:30:36 GMT
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>>WISH YOU LUCK.
>>
>>
>
>Why would  I  need luck?
>Bill

EVERYBODY NEEDS SOME LUCK.


-
  PAUL PIERCE in AJ AZ
  UTJP04A@prodigy.com
  NRA Endowment Member



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:19:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: 22 May 1996 03:27:24 GMT
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Replacement leadscrews are available from companies who
specialize in these items.  Usually you can buy two
different grades of 'normal' leadscrews and two grades
of ballscrew parts.  In both cases, the higher quality
units are ground.

You might look into Aha Engineering's DRO package for
your mill.  Components for two axis are $345 . . . you
supply the computer.  A 286 will suffice.  

I have a friend who has their setup on his mill.  Seems
to work very well. 

Their approach is to use rotary encoders but to drive the
encoders with aircraft cable wound around the encoder shaft
with both ends fastened to the table.  Much like the old
daisy wheel printer drives in the days before gearbelts.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:19:36 EDT 1996
Article: 28620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 22 May 1996 03:30:54 GMT
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Motor mounts for what application?

7075 suffers from fatigue-related failure (however, I have
no idea how much fatigue is too much for it).

In a model airplane I wouldn't worry too much.  In a full-
size vehicle, I'd be concerned.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 21 May 1996 07:50:30 -0700
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	OBTW, if you *do* buy an import vise, here's a trick: measure the 
distance between the two threaded holes for the jaw inserts and stamp the 
number on the top of the vise where you can always refer to it. It will 
be some off-the-wall number, even in metric (mine is...). When you go to 
make soft jaws, the hole spacing will be right and they will slip right 
on without binding...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where did this DRO go?
Date: 21 May 1996 07:55:18 -0700
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	Maybe a year or two back, maybe in Model Engineer's Workshop, 
there was an announcement of a very neat DRO that used a braided steel 
cable and a reel, rather than an etched glass scale. The idea was that it 
could fit in some tight places and it could also be moved to another 
machine (relatively) quickly. I would like a name, an address and any 
comments from users, if possible.
	TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 21 May 1996 08:04:09 -0700
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Jeffrey Prothero (jsp@u.washington.edu) wrote:
: How about just making a copy of a machinists ruler on a Xerox machine with
: the right amount of zoom.........
	--The trouble with using a copier to expand the image is that the 
scribed lines grow fatter, yielding less accuracy. The parts I am working 
on are greater than the length of the standard 14in. page, too, so I'd 
have to do it twice and splice two pages together, yielding more 
inaccuracies. 
	--I bit the bullet and bought the damned thing, but if someone sees 
one at a swapmeet cheap, remember yer old pal: I'd like to acquire a 
complete set of shrink rules some day, but preferably on the cheap ;-)
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From rhock@mcn.org Thu May 23 14:19:37 EDT 1996
Article: 28624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rhock@mcn.org (Ron Hock)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Heat treating steel
Date: 21 May 1996 15:50:42 GMT
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>To judge "cherry red" on drill rod, I heat until it becomes non-magnetic, 
>then get it a "tad" hotter.  The trick part is holding this temperature 
>for at least 5 minutes (for small pieces); 20 minutes is better..

The amount of time required at critical temp (1450-1500F for O-1) depends on
the thickness of the stock. Since the carbon is "as if in solution" at the critical temp,
it can and will migrate to the surface and be seduced away by  all those fast and 
loose oxygen sluts. Therefore, we want to hold the metal at that temp no longer than 
needed to ensure the transformation to austenite, loosing as little carbon as possible. 

In my experience, once the 
steel ceases to be magnetic, it's ready. Do allow it to go slightly above that temp to
be sure that you have enough time to reach the quench tank before it drops below
critical.

>I think the crayons work better in an oven (which I don't have, either.)

I tried the crayons, too. I hated them for the same reason you do and never used
them again. If you're tempering in the ktichen oven, you can use a little pile of the 
crayon crumbs as an indicator for the low-temp draw. With O-1 for  Rc62, go to 325F.
Of course, you'll need a 325F crayon...
Good luck.

Ron Hock (rhock@mcn.org)
Hock Handmade Knives
http://www.mcn.org/a/rhock/hockhome.htm


From cknowlto@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cknowlto@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane forge
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 06:55:04 GMT
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dmacdonald@dataflux.bc.ca (Doug MacDonald) wrote:


>I've been using a "pile of bricks" variety of propane forge for a few
>years now.  I can't quite get it up to welding heat.  So I am looking
>for plans or guidelines on building something a little more
>substantial.

>Can anyone point me in a good direction for plans (or share their
>experiences) re building a better forge--I only do small work so it
>doesn't have to be big.

>Thanks in advance!

>Doug

Doug, 

I am not sure that this is your idea of easy, but I built a coal forge
for around 30.00 that will burn steel into vapor.  I used a brake drum
>from  a tractor trailer for the body,

> I only do small work so it doesn't have to be big.

I used cast Iron pipe and fittings for air flow and went to a dump to
get a 1/2 in thick sheet of steel for the firebed (this was the
expensive piece believe it or not)  I use (don't tell anyone) a hair
dryer on low heat/low speed for air and I get fairly spectacular
results.  You should check with your town government about the legal
issues of burning coal, but I think that this should get you heated up
pretty good!

Christopher F. Knowlton
The Prince of Hearth Home Castle
Ring of Steel Armory




From cknowlto@ix.netcom.com Thu May 23 14:19:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cknowlto@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for Anvil
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 06:59:49 GMT
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I am in the DC/Baltimore area and I am trying to find a 125-200 lb
anvil. (used but in great shape)   I have looked in several antique
shops, as well as a couple of farmers barns (with permission of
course) and have not found anyone willing to part with a one!  I found
a fully cast iron 75 lb anvil in an antique shop, but I can't use such
a thing for the kind of work that I do (knifemaking).  Please e-mail
me if you can help out.

Christopher F. Knowlton
The Prince of Hearth Home Castle
Ring of Steel Armory




From writt@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:38 EDT 1996
Article: 28627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
Date: 21 May 1996 01:11:21 -0400
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In article <319FFFC0.3A1C@lockheed.on.ca>, Doug Bryant
<dbryant@lockheed.on.ca> writes:

>> Unfortunately, I experienced catastophic results when climb milling at 
>0.015 backlash.  I like the option of climb milling on occasion as it 
>often leaves a better surface finish.  Also having only a thou or two 
>backlash makes it much easier to re-establish a position as I don't have 
>to remember to subtract or add backlash to my destination reading.
>
Try snugging your table binders when climb milling, this has always worked
well for me. You are not going to do  much better than .003" backlash. If
you are going to a DRO you need not be concerned with your screws. If you 
have  problems  remembering which way the backlash goes mark the surface
above the dial with an arrow. Red magic markers work fine.

Bill  Rittner


From felice@pioneer.net Thu May 23 14:19:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 16:40:40 GMT
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I just built a power hacksaw like the one described
by john dean in PM a while ago. slow, but it works well,
doesn't stink or get hot and I can drink coffee while it works
cost me the price of scrap to build (plus the welder)


In article <1996May20.173146.11620@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov> Roger Gibbs 
<rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov> writes:>From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
>Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
>Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 17:31:46 GMT


>>Where could I buy such a wheel for a circular saw?  snip 
>> I have a old (and powerful) table saw and thought that
>> with a couple of cuts it should be possible.
>>

>Although you could mount an abrasive cut-off wheel on your table saw,
>you might want to give that some carefull thought first - they 
>distribute nasty abrasive dust all over the place.  This dust may
>well find its way into the TS arbor or motor bearings.  I destroyed
>a sleeve bearing on an inexpensive Sears circular saw using an 
>abrasive cut-off wheel.

>The wheels are not hard to find, most hardware stores or Home Depot
>type places stock them.

>-Roger





From jay@ftp.com Thu May 23 14:19:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fehlman Mill Drill (Swiss made)
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 14:49:08
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In article <4ncndp$mpm@hg.oro.net> janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson) writes:
>Jay,
>I saw the unit, but my memory is just a bit hazy. I seem to recall that the rotary table was
>removable, but rather integral. That is, removing it didn't leave much to work with. Perhaps 
>there are other accessories to take the place of the rotab. It was there for quite some time, really,
>and I kept looking it over to see if it had some potential, however for the typical hobbyist, I'd say
>Stay Away unless it's REAL cheap, or you are good at adapting things.

At $2500, it wasn't cheap.  I was curious about the mfgr and model of this,
as it is one I wasn't aware of.  (Anyway, it was sold when I called :-> )
Are any of our European readers of r.c.m. knowledgeable about this mill?

The saleguy told me they have a super-duper Taiwanese mill-drill which was
>from  the same foundry as all the others, but it is "precision ground and
carefully set up", etc.,etc.  I guess these imports are actually getting past
the "painted casting kit roughly assembled" level.

>BTW, I'd reccomend not buying anything from Scotts without giving it a good look over first.
>I've heard lots of stuff second hand, but do have one first hand experience. My previous employer 
>purchased a Hardinge HLVH from Scotts. It had a -fresh- coat of paint, and we initially thought we'd 
>gotten a nice machine. However, we quickly noticed the oiler wasn't working. I dug into it and found

<snipage about the machine coming from a *fire*>

>it didn't get hot enough to melt wiring, the way lube coked, and that takes some serious heat.
>No mention of this was made to my boss. It was just cleaned up, painted, and passed on.

Its amazing what bosses aren't told!   :-)  :-)   :-)

My browsing through many used machinery dealer's places seems an awful lot
like shopping for a used car.  The sales-droids will tell you anything just
to make a sale...as you would expect!  I am very wary of the new paint and
brightly scrubbed table look on machines, since you *know* they weren't that
way when they came in.  I've had some good deals from dealers (though they
are consistently a bit pricey, and most will give a kind of guarantee and 
perhaps fix or replace small items as part of general goodwill)
and good deals from swap meets and private sales (with zero guarantee).
Caveat Emptor, always.  The few junkers I bought were my own bad judgement
and rush to get running the machine, then finding cracked castings or
partly stripped half-nuts, etc.  Part of the learning curve.
Of course, used machines *are* worn, by definition, so a lot of your
decision is what you can tolerate and live with, or if you can do your
own refitting (shades of Connelly's book), or just say "No Thanks".

>I have bought stuff there that was in decent to good condition. Just wouldn't recommend anyone buy
>sight unseen.

Yeah...that's why I like to actually get ahold of machines before plunking
down the $$$ for them.....I actually close my eyes when cranking the handles
to feel for rough/scratchy/worn/sloppy spots.....the "wonderfullness" of
seeing this possible new toy can override problems, problems of mechanical
slop that you can feel, unless you use the braille test.  :-)
Run the machine under power, if possible.

Thanks for your post.



From packrat@PEAK.ORG Thu May 23 14:19:39 EDT 1996
Article: 28630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: packrat@PEAK.ORG (Jon Winlund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 20 May 1996 21:35:25 -0700
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In article <L8IgsGAAfjnxEwW4@br13jl.demon.co.uk>,
Andrew Mawson  <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <4nl4hi$7n9@acme.sb.west.net>, Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>
>writes
>>       Well, I just ordered a 24 in. shrink rule from Pattern Supply 
>>for-- get this-- $122.-!!! Egads! for this price it should have been 
>>supplied in a mink-lined mahogany case, with gold lettering, but it came 
>>taped to a board...
>>        Isn't there a cheaper place to buy this kind of thing??? 
>>Fortunately it's about the only patternmaking item that 
>>can't be fabricated at home, but an alternative supplier would be 
>>appreciated.. Anyone got any favourite stores for this sort of thing??
>
>Ed,

Try a photo lithographers. Scale a common ruler with film, tape it to a 
piece of metal, and there you are!



From DMusgrave@swri.edu Thu May 23 14:19:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DMusgrave@swri.edu (Dave Musgrave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: 4130 tubing
Date: 21 May 1996 19:25:19 GMT
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Looking for some 4130 tubing to slip-fit inside aluminum tubes
that are 0.930 ID.  Ideal would be 0.035 wall, about 0.925 OD.

Anyone got a source for such an animal?  Alternate plan B is to 
Buy one inch, 0.063 wall and turn it down, but what a pain!

TIA!
-- 
Dave Musgrave 



From dbryant@lockheed.on.ca Thu May 23 14:19:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Bryant <dbryant@lockheed.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Lead Screws & Encoders
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> Can you describe better your anti-backlash nuts?
> It would be intersting for my lathe.
> 
> If you want to find shaft encoders, look at
> http://www.usdigital.com/
> You can find there several models of shaft encoders, proces under 50$
> to have a readout, i tink that the simplest solution is to feed the
> pulses of shaft encoder to the PC and write a small program to display
> the reading. If your leadscrew is worn-out, I tink that is possible to
> tabulate the errors in the program and to automatically correct the
> reading according to the table.
> 
> Paolo
> 
>                             _______
>                             TTTTTTT
>                             | | | |
>                           ===========
> Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
> CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
> Pisa ITALY               ===========
> P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
>                          | | | | |
>                         ===========
>                         TTTTTTTTT
>                         | | | | |
>                        ===========

Paolo,

Thanks for you advice on encoders.  Here's a brief description of the anti-backlash nuts 
 I made for my milling machine.  Note that ball nuts would be a better choice for 
machines with high speed lead screws.

Backlash can be taken up in a couple of ways.  One way is to split the nut 
longitudinally (i.e. along the length of the lead screw) and then change the position of 
one half of the nut relative to the other half.  This forces the thread flanks of each 
half of the nut to be in contact with opposite thread flanks on the lead screw.

The trick is how to adjust the spacing of the two halves of the nut without introducing 
additional backlash.  This could be done by fixing one half of the nut to a mounting 
body and moving the floating half with a screw mechanism such as a bolt that passes 
through the body of the nut.  To lock the nut in place after a manual adjustment, a 
second bolt on the other side could be tighened.  There are numerous other ways of 
achieving relative movement between the two halves of the nut, but I found it difficult 
to design it as an automatic adjustment without adding backlash through the adjustment 
mechanism.  Besides, in my case I didn't have enough room for this design.

A second method splits the nut laterally (i.e. perpendicular to the length of the lead 
screw).  The best way to describe this is to imagine a bolt with two nuts on it.  If the 
nuts could be pressed apart then you would have the thread flanks of one nut (the 
floating nut) in contact with one side of the bolt threads and the flanks of the other 
nut (the fixed nut) in contact with the other side of the bolt threads. 

Once again the trick is how to apply this pressure without introducing additional 
backlash.  Some designs use a heavy spring to push the nuts apart, but I didn't feel 
that would work on a milling machine which puts substantial forces on the nuts.  
Instead, I threaded the outside of the floating nut and put another nut over it which 
was seated against the mounting block holding the fixed nut.  By rotating this external 
or backlash adjustment nut I can force the leadscrew nuts apart and take up any 
backlash.  

To keep the floating nut from turning, it is mounted on a plate which has two reamed 
holes in it in the corners.  Accurately turned rods extending from the mounting block 
pass through these holes allowing the floating nut to move only along the length of the 
leadscrew.  An O-ring anchored at one end to one of the rods and connected at the other 
end of the backlash adjustment nut provide the torque needed to screw the floating nut 
away from the fixed nut located in the mounting block.  Note that very little torque is 
needed and in fact you don't want a lot of pressure pushing the two nuts away from each 
other as that will cause unneccessay wear.

This arrangement is very sturdy as the floating and fixed nuts basically press against 
each other via an external nut -- all metal to metal contact with no backlash in the 
adjustment mechanism (as long the rods mentioned above have a very close fit to their 
holes).

Space was a major consideration as I didn't want to have to machine the bottom of the 
milling machine table to make room for a bulky design.  Instead I exploited that fact 
that I had a fair bit of room to use along the length of the leadscrew.  The nuts I made 
for my milling machine are about 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" by about 2 1/4" long and fit on the 
existing mounting holes.

The problem with any automatic take up is that it requires very accurately machined lead 
screws otherwise it will tend to bind.  I am currently considering modifying the design 
to make it a manual adjustment or purchasing better lead screws.


From bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu Thu May 23 14:19:40 EDT 1996
Article: 28633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where can I get a drawing for a dental implant?
Date: 22 May 1996 10:45:58 GMT
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Greetings all:
Can you suggest where I should try to get a blue print or drawing for a 
dental implant? I hope this information is adequate for you. If not ask 
questions & I shall attempt to find answers. TIA.
Ashoke Nijhowne.


From bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu Thu May 23 14:19:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bb05282@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What is the surface cutting speed for...
Date: 22 May 1996 10:52:40 GMT
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What is the cutting speed for glass epoxy, also known as G-10? I should 
also like the same information for phenolic, please. I shall be using an 
end mill & a fly cutter to machine both these products. I understand that 
these materials are abrasive & both have to be cut with carbide cutting 
tools? TIA
Ashoke Nijhowne.


From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Thu May 23 14:19:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
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>Where could I buy such a wheel for a circular saw?  snip 
> I have a old (and powerful) table saw and thought that
> with a couple of cuts it should be possible.
>

Although you could mount an abrasive cut-off wheel on your table saw,
you might want to give that some carefull thought first - they 
distribute nasty abrasive dust all over the place.  This dust may
well find its way into the TS arbor or motor bearings.  I destroyed
a sleeve bearing on an inexpensive Sears circular saw using an 
abrasive cut-off wheel.

The wheels are not hard to find, most hardware stores or Home Depot
type places stock them.

-Roger




From klaas@uniface.nl Thu May 23 14:19:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane forge
Date: 22 May 1996 11:12:34 GMT
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I have a description of a propane forge without forced air draft:

http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/TOC/proces/cast/ag_cast.html

Klaas



From ppm@getnet.com Thu May 23 14:19:41 EDT 1996
Article: 28637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Hans <ppm@getnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Assembly Automation
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 08:07:28 -0700
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We realized an automatic assembly line for electronic products with
the MainFrame Aluminum Extrusion at low cost and far under budget.

http://gn2.getnet.com/~mframe/


From klaas@uniface.nl Thu May 23 14:19:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: casting complicated shapes
Date: 22 May 1996 11:33:01 GMT
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Do not cast at all, but use wire and sheet and solder them together with
*hard* solder. Only irregular objects (birds, etc.) can  better be cast.
Casting of such thin objects may lead easily to casting errors like
incomplete cavity fillings, unless you have a vacuum casting machine based on
the lost-wax method.

Klaas



From carlgrin@scott.net Thu May 23 14:19:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carlgrin@scott.net (Carl Grinnell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to disassemble a Jacobs chuck?
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 08:45:34 GMT
Organization: Scott Network Services, Inc.
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user@pacificrim.net (Alan Heugh) wrote:

>In article <316C06C9.667D@popcorn.llnl.gov>, Roger Van Maren
><vanmaren2@popcorn.llnl.gov> wrote:

>> I've got a Jacobs chuck that feels like the grease
>> in it has dried up. This makes it slightly
>> difficult to spin down on a bit. I know these
>> things can be disassembled because I've seen
>> replacement jaws in a catalog. For the life of me I
>> can't figure out how. Any ideas?


   The part of the Jacobs chuck that you grab when tightening it by
hand is a press fit on the main barrel of the chuck.

   Your best bet for removing it it to bore out a piece of pipe to fit
over the shank of the chuck and up against the narrow shoulder of the
ring.  Open the chuck as far as it will go,  set it in the end of the
piece of pipe, and using a rod that will fit into the chuck, Drive the
main part of the chuck down into the pipe.  The ring will be pushed
off.

   If you can't bore a piece of pipe then you can try to do it with a
vice but be careful!  The ring is usually hardened and it WILL break
if it's stressed too much.

  An alternative is to let the chuck soak in solvent to remove the old
grease then relubricate with a heavy oil.  Oil is not as good as a
good high pressure grease, like wheel bearing grease, but it will work
as long as you rember to relubricate the chuck regularly.

   BTW, wheel bearing grease should be readily available at your local
auto parts house.


                                                      Carl Grinnell



From darkstar@u.washington.edu Thu May 23 14:19:42 EDT 1996
Article: 28640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darkstar@u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How should I cut this slot?
Date: 21 May 1996 20:42:08 GMT
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This is a woodworking problem, but it's wierd enough that I thought I'd 
ask here too: 

I am looking for great ideas on how to cut a hole in a somewhat sticky
spot:  I want to cut a slot about 1/2" wide and about 1/16-1/8" high at
the bottom of a piece of wood 1/4" thick and about 3" tall (a keybox side)
which is glued at right angles to another piece of wood (the soundboard). 
The slot needs to go all the way through the keybox side.  To complicate
matters, the existing pieces are already finished, and so they must remain
unmarred in the process.  (A little local marring is OK, as it will
covered.)  To further complicate things, there is another keybox side 2"
behind the first, so the access from the back is restricted. 

end view
                     +--+                +--+
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
                     |  |                |  |
         slot here =>++++                |  |
---------------------+--+----------------+--+-----
--------------------------------------------------



Your help is appreciated.  


Alden and Cali Hackmann
Olympic Instruments - makers of fine hurdy-gurdies
PO Box 166, Indianola WA 98342, 360-297-7234
darkstar@u.washington.edu,  hurdy@olympic.net
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/HGhome.html
"Beati illi qui in circulum circumeunt, fient enim magnae rotae."



-- 
Alden F.M. Hackmann                        darkstar@u.washington.edu
Web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~darkstar/    
"Beati illi qui in circulum circumeunt, fient enim magnae rotae."


From dmauch@seanet.com Thu May 23 14:19:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tailstock Lathe Turret
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 17:10:59 -0700
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Grissly is selling a turret that fits the #2 taper of a lathe tailstock. 
Has anyone tried one of them. F or $50 it seems like a great deal 
but..... do they work?


From dmacdonald@dataflux.bc.ca Thu May 23 14:19:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dmacdonald@dataflux.bc.ca (Doug MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Propane forge
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 22:48:43 GMT
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I've been using a "pile of bricks" variety of propane forge for a few
years now.  I can't quite get it up to welding heat.  So I am looking
for plans or guidelines on building something a little more
substantial.

Can anyone point me in a good direction for plans (or share their
experiences) re building a better forge--I only do small work so it
doesn't have to be big.

Thanks in advance!

Doug



From jmcmun@digital-cafe.com Thu May 23 14:19:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: the tap drill rule...
Date: 22 May 1996 00:00:30 GMT
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to determine the tap drill size for any tap, subtract the pitch
>from  the o.d.  example: m6x1, 6-1=5, so use a 5mm for an m6x1.
works for everything, try it.

Jay, North Idaho


From aep19@mail.magg.net Thu May 23 14:19:43 EDT 1996
Article: 28644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anthony EPucillo <aep19@mail.magg.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: 22 May 1996 00:43:13 GMT
Organization: M.A.G. Information Services (MAGG.NET)
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>: This sounds like a bad idea. A radial arm saw or miterbox saw would be
>: OK. The work should be clamped in place and the saw moved over
>: it.Using  a handheld circular saw is OK but dangerous and slow for
>: thick metal.
>
>Agreed. An abrasive cutoff wheel in a hand-held saw will very likely shatter
>into a large number of pieces of high-speed shrapnel.

   Having once managed to cut about 250 feet of corrugated sheet metal 
roofing precisely this way, I can attest that it is _noisy_, throws 
sparks in every direction, is slow and wears out wheels rapidly.  Never, 
however, did I have a wheel come apart or even crack.  I think the issue 
is what the wheel is made of and whether it is designed for a _saw_ or a 
bench grinder (believe it or not, there are some intended for one but 
used for the other and some intended for either).  The ones I've used for 
a saw had a good, embedded matrix of some kind of fiber and didn't seem 
terribly inclined to break even with some abuse.

    Either way, _do_ stabilize the metal.  A short cut in a mower blade 
shouldn't be too bad, but these things will kick back harder than you 
expect when they get pinched in a shifting metal cut. Holding a 90 degree 
angle is important.

    However, as a possible solution, I think the handheld saw is 
realistic.  I assume if the writer had more elaborate equipment 
he wouldn't be asking.

    P.S.  I've used an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel (not 
"cut-off" -- abrasive as in grinding, only thinner than a bench-grinder, 
without embedded matrix) to sharpen my blades for years without removing 
them from the mower.  About 15 seconds and done.  I feel confident I 
could cut one off just as easily in about a minute.  My experience in 
that they aren't very hard metal and even the Florida Bahia grass wears 
them away.



From tonylos@village.ios.com Thu May 23 14:19:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is KASENIT any good?
Date: 22 May 1996 01:10:21 GMT
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To: wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com

Kasenit works really good when properly used. The trick is to maintain
the part to be case hardened to a red heat for at least 1/2 hour. I have
kept parts "cooking" for upto 1 hour for a deep case. The part must
be completely buried in the compound for otherwise the exposed areas
will be soft.

According to my heat-treating practices book 12L14 is well suited
for case hardening.



From hpeach@pop.uky.edu Thu May 23 14:19:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hpeach@pop.uky.edu (Harold G. Peach, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anodizing Copper
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 20:48:08 GMT
Organization: University of Kentucky Chandler Medical Center
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Several years ago in an amateur radio magazine I read an article about
how to build a copper antenna.  The article recommended that the
antenna be anodized after it was completed to protect it from
corrosion.  Does anyone know the process?  I have lost the article.

I recall that it involved bathing the copper in a solution that turned
it green, then wiping it off with another solution to turn it back to
a copper color that would not corrode in the weather.  It seems to me
vinegar was one of the solutions.

Any help would be appreciated.

Harold
hpeach@pop.uky.edu
---
Harold
hpeach@pop.uky.edu



From pdrumm@dwave.net Thu May 23 14:19:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: 21 May 1996 10:51:40 GMT
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In message <19MAY199605081909@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu> -
v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER)19 May 1996 05:08 EST
writes:
:->
:-> I have a brass nameplate that I want to mount to a flat laquered
:->painted steel surface. I would like to use a thin strong 
:->double sided adhesive film, since it eliminate much of the mess and
:->can be cut to size. Any suggestions? 

Try a dab of silicone bathtub caulk, you don't even have to cut it :)
just wipe off the excess.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From rhager@millcomm.com Thu May 23 14:19:44 EDT 1996
Article: 28648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flypress tooling
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:41:03 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 39
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Mike Diack wrote:
> 
> I have this 4 ton flypress (local manufacture) which i would like to
> get some *rectangular* punches and dies for (for electronic components).
> The Radiospares & Farnell catalogs list a number of such items by an OEM
> supplier called Manuform (it doesnt matter if they dont fit - the local
> machine shop makes great adaptors). Does anyone know how to contact
> Manuform, or any similar supplier of non-circular tooling (the local
> toolmakers want $400 for an inch square punch & die !!!).
> cheers
> Mike.

-- 

Mike,

We've had good luck with Roper-Whitney (in Illinois I believe).  They 
generally have a distributor in most large cities.  Over the years 
they've bought many of the familiar names in sheet metal equipment, like 
Pexto, etc..

I'd guess a 1" square would be about $200.  They've made small custom 
punches and dies for us too.  The price was reasonable and delivery was 
about 3 weeks.  This was several years ago.

If you can't get their number from directory, try Thomas Register at a 
library or on the Web.

Good luck,

        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build stuff" So...     -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Thu May 23 14:19:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: 21 May 1996 19:06:15 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
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In rec.crafts.metalworking, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) writes:
>In article <4n7flb$lsf@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.d
>ec.com> writes:
>>From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
>>Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
>>Date: 13 May 1996 14:06:35 GMT
>
>A BIG caution on 7075-T6. although it has some nice numbers at ROOM
>TEMPERATURE its propertiees fall off at an amazing rate at only warm temp- for
>example its ultimate Tensile at room temp is 83,000psi, but at only 300
>degrees FARENHEIT it has fallen to 25,000.
>
This is very iinteresting since it was suggested to me that 7075
would be a good choice to make internal combustion engine conn-
ecting rods.  Maybe it would not be for the reason you have mentioned.

Perhaps 6061 would be the best if its chemical inertness transposes
into a higher resistance to stress-corrosion failure which micht be
a factor in repeated loading in the crnkcase environment.

A feature I found about machining 7075 is that the chips come off
hot enough to burn your arms liek steel chips do if you are turning
it.  Sorry for the typos, the editor interferes with going back
to correct them.  It is impressive stuff in the strength dept tho.

ken
bethesda, md


From rhager@millcomm.com Thu May 23 14:19:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Read Out (was L-screws & Encoders)
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 13:13:47 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 62
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Paolo Zini wrote:

 i tink that the simplest solution is to feed the
> pulses of shaft encoder to the PC and write a small program to display
> the reading. If your leadscrew is worn-out, I tink that is possible to
> tabulate the errors in the program and to automatically correct the
> reading according to the table.
> 
> Paolo

-- 

Hello to Paolo and others interested in DRO's, in hopes of saving you a pain of 
a programming job!...


For a number of years, Ah-ha! had a deluxe DRO program that ran on any 286 or 
better PC.  This was actually the product which launched the company way back 
when.

Although we dropped this product from our catalog a year ago, in seeing the 
amount of interest here in low cost DRO's, we'll make it available to members 
of this group with the understanding that we cannot offer extensive phone 
support for it as we do for our CNC software.

It is quite simple to setup and use, handles 3 axes, and accepts standard TTL  
quadrature encoders (either rotary or linear).  The cost is $149 US.  It runs 
under DOS, NOT windows.  While DRO is running, no other software can be 
running.

DRO contains a number of nice features including: radius/diam switching for 
lathes, a 'beep when close to zero' function, two sets of counters for absolute 
and relative, ability to handle any resolution in counts/inch, and backlash 
compensation.

I believe it's switchable to metric also, but don't hold me to that!  As I 
recall, it also had a 'tach' input, to display spindle RPM on-screen.  Another 
nice feature is that the readouts are large 1" high numbers that you can see 
>from  6 feet away.

Once again, phone support would not be available and documentation is minimal 
(8 pages plus wiring diagram if I remember right).  If you have some knowledge 
of PC's and the ability to read a schematic, it will be intuitive and self 
explanatory.  If you don't have the knowledge, you should probably buy a 
commercial unit.

If you'd like to get this software, please call the main number.  I'm totally 
swamped right now and will be unable to answer any email about it.

Whether you get this software or roll your own, good luck with it!  A DRO is a 
wonderful addition to any machine and well worth the effort.


        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build stuff" So...     -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu Thu May 23 14:19:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thin adhesive film for nameplate mounting on metal?
Date: 21 May 1996 12:04:34 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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Peter Drumm (pdrumm@dwave.net) wrote:
: In message <19MAY199605081909@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu> -
: v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL GANDLER)19 May 1996 05:08 EST
: writes:
: :->
: :-> I have a brass nameplate that I want to mount to a flat laquered
: :->painted steel surface. I would like to use a thin strong 
: :->double sided adhesive film, since it eliminate much of the mess and
: :->can be cut to size. Any suggestions? 

: Try a dab of silicone bathtub caulk, you don't even have to cut it :)
: just wipe off the excess.

Better than silicone caulk is Polyseamseal. Much more tenacious, better
tack, and better long-term stability. 

--mike


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Thu May 23 14:19:45 EDT 1996
Article: 28652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 22 May 1996 11:40:32 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
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Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 6/30/96
Message-ID: <4nvn30$lhc@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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In article <4nsm19$9cb@acme.sb.west.net>, Edward Haas <steamer@west.net> wrote:
>Jeffrey Prothero (jsp@u.washington.edu) wrote:
>: How about just making a copy of a machinists ruler on a Xerox machine with
>: the right amount of zoom.........
>	--The trouble with using a copier to expand the image is that the 
>scribed lines grow fatter, yielding less accuracy. The parts I am working 
>on are greater than the length of the standard 14in. page, too, so I'd 
>have to do it twice and splice two pages together, yielding more 
>inaccuracies. 
[snip]


Blueprint shops have copy machines that can make nearly any size from
nearly any size. I reduced a 6-foot-long drawing to three feet, and a
4-foot one to 11 inches this way. Accuracy of the copy is as good as
one would need for sand casting. Precison die casting is another
matter.


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Thu May 23 14:19:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shrink rule prices: Yikes!!!
Date: 21 May 1996 12:22:24 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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Full AutoCAD is pretty pricey, but I've seen AutoCAD LT advertised 
for around $390 or less, new, and I was fortunate enough to get a 
used, licensed copy for $100.  Deals can be had, if one looks.

AutoCAD LT doesn't have Lisp programming capability and it has very 
limited 3D capability, but its 2D support is equivalent, or nearly 
so, to full AutoCAD.  It certainly does everything I'm going to want
to do, for quite a while.



From johng@ari.net Thu May 23 14:19:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Guenther <johng@ari.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Milling Macnine
Date: 22 May 1996 01:01:38 GMT
Organization: Southern Sense
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To: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com

You can get it directly from Sherline (Check out their web page at 
www.sherline.com), I got mine direcly and am very pleased.



From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Thu May 23 14:19:46 EDT 1996
Article: 28655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oscillating Steam Engine for Paddle Steamer
Date: 22 May 1996 03:23:07 GMT
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In article <4nn75t$608@ventus.adelaide.on.net>
awallace@adelaide.on.net (Allan Wallace) writes:

> I'm looking for any designs for a double acting twin cylinder
> oscillating steam engine suitable for driving a model
> river boat (side wheeler as was commonly used on the
> River Murray in Australia).

Don't know if it is still available, but try to find a copy of:

"Model Stationary and Marine Steam Engines", by K. N. Harris; published
1958 (revised in 1964 & 1969) by Models and Allied Publishers, England
(they also publish Model Engineer).  THis includes plans for several
oscillating engines, including a 2-cylinder paddle-wheel engine (and
feathering paddle wheels too).  Good luck.

JK


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Thu May 23 14:19:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Case Hardening
Date: 22 May 1996 03:37:16 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 14
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I do seem to remember someone taking Guy to task
for publishing the hardening formula without
cautioning everyone how dangerous the stuff is.

I think the person supplied a reformulated list
that was not too dangerous.  This is probably what
Cecil is quoting.

Cecil?

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From ernieleim@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: 4130 tubing
Date: 21 May 1996 23:36:52 -0400
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DMusgrave@swri.edu (Dave Musgrave) asked :

>Looking for some 4130 tubing to slip-fit inside aluminum >tubes
>that are 0.930 ID.  Ideal would be 0.035 wall, about 0.925 OD.
>
>Anyone got a source for such an animal?  Alternate plan B is >to 
>Buy one inch, 0.063 wall and turn it down, but what a pain!

Give these guys a try.
They are a bit out of your region, but they carry every size of
chrome/moly tubing made.

Marmon Keystone Tubing
Auburn, Washington
(206) 941-1151
@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Thu May 23 14:19:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can I get a cut off wheel for a circular saw?
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 23:51:50 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <31A2B986.5010@mis.nb.ca>
References: <4njfhj$9aj@tofu.alt.net> <319f4e7c.5751620@news.sundial.net> <4nqhet$2oq@cwis-20.wayne.edu> <31A14C48.36F0@mail.cloudnet.com>
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Bill Rudolph wrote:
> 
> I did it a couple of year ago and the grit thrown off while cutting
> ground the bearings out of my saw in short order. A couple of months
> later I had major maintenance problems on my saw.
> Bill

I have also heard of this, but two years ago made a chopsaw from a
Makita which had a broken guard. It works great, have used it on metal
1/4" and smaller. Never had a problem.

Jeff Trites


From johnd@islandnet.com Thu May 23 14:19:47 EDT 1996
Article: 28659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: identify this device
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 03:57:16 GMT
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mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) wrote:

>I have had come in to my posession an unusual device- it appears to be for
>calibrating pressure gauges. It consists of a brass balance arm, a large
>horizontal brass lfywheel driven by a rubber wheel, a couple of stopcocks,
>a 3" diameter brass cylinder with a a floating piston, and various adapters.
>The maker's name escapes me- wrote it down and left it at home- but it
>began with C, I think- and it was made in Boston.

Sounds a bit like a primary pressure standard.  If you have a cylinder
of known dimension filled with light oil and a piston that fits if
precisely then placing a mass on the piston will produce a pressure
out a tube connected to the cylinder. Trouble is the ugly co-efficient
of static friction rears its ugly little head.  Remember?  Takes more
force to get something moving then to keep it moving so adding mass to
the piston will appear to not have any effect until you overcome the
static friction forces between the wall of the cylinder and the
piston.  This means that the reading will always be suspect.

The solution is to spin the piston by driving it with the rubber
wheel.  Now,  given a known mass placed on the turntable you can
generate a pressure independant of static friction because the mass is
already moving.  These are normally very expensive devices.

Cool eh?

John.

>Does this sound familiar to anyone? Can you venture a guess as to its
>age and value? Is it still a useful device?

>--mike  mje@pass.wayne.edu




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stuck Bridgeport Quill
Date: 22 May 1996 19:28:38 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 23
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I just bought a used Bridgeport J-series milling machine head.  I checked
quite a few things on it before buying, and found a few things that need
attention.  When I got it home and started disassembling it to move it to
the basement, I was horrified to discover that the quill is stuck in the
full up position.  Well, I finally got it unfrozen, and the quill is
badly scarred by grinding grit up between the quill and the housing.

Does anyone have comments on how bad this is?  My old M-head has very few
marks on the quill.

My M-head allows me to get 4250 RPM.  The J-head only goes to ~2200 rpm.
Does anyone have any suggestions for getting a higher speed from the J-head
without extreme effort?  Are there other cone pulley sets to get other
speed ranges?  How about making a new cone pulley set with 5 grooves, and
using a belt one size narrower?  (It looks like the motor pulley could easily
accomodate a smaller pulley diameter than its current smallest.)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
						Jon






From steamer@west.net Thu May 23 14:19:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tailstock Lathe Turret
Date: 21 May 1996 21:55:14 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	Yes; it's a piece of sh*t. 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	What would happen if.....
	COMING SOON		:	Superman farted??
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Thu May 23 14:19:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where did this DRO go?
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 17:22:34 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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In article <4nslgm$88b@acme.sb.west.net> steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:
>From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
>Subject: Where did this DRO go?
>Date: 21 May 1996 07:55:18 -0700

>        Maybe a year or two back, maybe in Model Engineer's Workshop, 
>there was an announcement of a very neat DRO that used a braided steel 
>cable and a reel, rather than an etched glass scale. The idea was that it 
>could fit in some tight places and it could also be moved to another 
>machine (relatively) quickly. I would like a name, an address and any 
>comments from users, if possible.
>        TIA,

There was a vendor at this years Model Enigneer show in London showing a 
system like this. They had just a demo device setup at the show and were 
taking orders. Our group looked at it and we concluded we didint like it, to 
many ways the cable can sag or stretch or ride over a chip and distort the 
readings. But better than schemes tha rely on encoders on the lead screws.

At this years NAMES show a new vendor was showing a DRO, based on an 
accurately machined rack and pinion. He pointed out it was just like a dial 
caliper. We all know how nice it is when you get a little chip in the rack of 
your dial. He did have an actractive package, a reasonable price, and the 
electronics semed OK. He was also showing a demo model and taking orders, to 
ship 'real soon now'. He has started advertising in HSM and Projects in Metal. 
I dont recall the company name, but he uses a cartoon caracter with big eyes 
looking at dials and DROs.

I am still looking for the 'right' DRO for home shop use. I would not accept 
any scheme based onlead screw encoding- they cant account for table backlash 
and movement. I dont like cables and drums - to many stretch, sag problems.

I really want a nice glass scale for about $250. Dont think Ill get it.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From writt@aol.com Thu May 23 14:19:48 EDT 1996
Article: 28663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q MSC 4" Vise Sale
Date: 22 May 1996 01:47:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4nrgtc$1qc4@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, UTJP04A@prodigy.com
(Paul Pierce) writes:

>EVERYBODY NEEDS SOME LUCK.

You're absolutely right,  and I had none this time. It seems I can't find
out if MSC has anymore of these vises unless I can find the stock number.
I've made 4 calls so far.

Bill


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Thu May 23 14:19:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] How hot can an air-propane torch be ?
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 06:30:11 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 27
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In article <4ndp1c$69b@news.pig.net> douglas@praxis.net (Douglas) writes:

>>:> Is there any theoretical limit on the flame temperature of a
>>:> propane-air torch ? And any practical ?
>>:...
>>:> Putting a Pt/PtRh10 thermocouple in the hottest part usually yields
>>:> 1400-1500 degrees C.
>>:> Any other experiences ?
>>:> Klaas
>>:The flame radiates a lot of heat to its surroundings unless it is in a hot
>>:tube.  
>>:In practice, my propane torch will barely melt a small bead of copper on
>>:the end of a wire (conduction loss path).  
>>:If the bead of molten copper falls into a can of water, it just sits on
>>:the bottom glowing within a shiny steam bubble.  Wear serious protection
>>:if you try this sort of thing.


>I was looking at an air-propane torch a while back (I've used one for years).
>The manf. claimed 2900 F.

>Have not tested mine for temp, but I routinely melt 3 oz. of silver with it. 

I haved a torch head sold by Canadian Tire that has some kind of vortex gizmo 
in it, it'll braze & silver solder (real silver solder) bicycle bits onto the 
frame tubes, but doesn't quite have enough heat to join the tubes together.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Thu May 23 14:19:49 EDT 1996
Article: 28665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB 8" Dial Calipers in good condition.
Date: 22 May 1996 20:22:34 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 12
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CThomas162 (cthomas162@aol.com) wrote:

:  Does anyone out there have an extra 8 inch caliper (brown & sharpe,
: Mitotoyu
:  etc) thats in good shape that they'd like to sell? If so, please email me
: with details and price.

These are getting very cheap, now that most machinists have gone over to 
electronic calipers.  I've seen 8" calipers in the $30 - 40 range.  A brand
new caliper from a dealer is probably safer (and may be more accurate, too)
than a used one of unknown history.



From rcook@BIX.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tube drilling (was Gun Barrel drilling)
Date: 5 Jun 1996 04:11:14 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 12
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Reg H. Beardsley wrote:
>BTW Barrels have been drilled for a VERY long time by exactly the method
>described.  While it is true that barrels have been made by forge welding
>a tube, drilling was still necessary to achieve a uniform bore.
>
Oh yes. But until another poster provided the information I wasn't aware
that rifle/musket barrels had been drilled from solid. (Cannon, I knew
about.) You're quite right that a forge-welded barrel has to be cleaned by
drilling. It's just that that involves
a lot less stock removal.

--RC


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 5 Jun 1996 06:40:59 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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bikerbil (bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net) wrote:


: I have an old 750 Virago motorcycle in real bad shape but runs well
: that I want to turn into an air compressor for my shop. Mainly for
: sand blasting, though it would be nice to have a couple of air tools
: too.

: The engine is a 750 V twin, I was thinking of removing 1 carburetor
: and installing some kinda air filter in its place, and taking the
: shimms out of the exhaust cam so it wont open.And installing a check
: valve in place of the spark plug for the output. Then just running the
: engine off the remaining cylinder.

<snip>
: But how do I figure out what the output would be ? I know that the
: compression is better that 100 psi. But I have no idea if it will put
: out enough cfm to run a sandblaster.. or actually fill the tanks in
: reasonable amount of time.

Well, each cylinder is 375 cc, but it has a large volume trapped above the
piston, so you get some losses from that.  Lets assume you get 300 cc
delivered per stroke. You will still be running the compressor on a
4-stroke cycle, so you lose every other up stroke on the piston.
Lets assume you run this at 3600 RPM (the spark plug hole is pretty small
for the air to escape from, so we should keep the RPMs down).

3600 RPM = 60 strokes/sec / 2 (for 4 stroke) = 30 strokes/sec x 60 sec/min
	= 1800 strokes / min

1800 strokes / min x 300 cc / stroke = 540000 cc/min

540000 cc/min / 1000 cc/L = 540 L/min x .0353 L/ft ^3 = 19 ft ^3/min
					or 19 CFM

Not too bad for one little cylinder.
Now - the bad news.  I'm not an expert on thermodynamics, and especially
the thermodynamics of choked-up air compressors (I'm referring to the
restriction at the spark plug hole).  But air compressors heat air by
(mostly) adiabatic compression.  Some of this heat is transferred to the
cylinder, head, etc.  If the compressor has a choke point at the outlet,
it will run hotter, because the peak cylinder pressure is a lot more than
the storage tank pressure.  This is an air cooled (I think) engine, which
has somewhat of a problem with heat removal anyway.  You may need a large
cooling blower to keep the compressor cylinder from overheating.  I'm
thinking that a large part of the energy output of the engine cylinder
will be dissipated in the compressor cylinder, and only some of that
energy will leave as hot air - some of it will stay there.  But maybe I'm
overestimating this problem.

Good luck with it.
						Jon



From johnd@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 06:58:28 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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babcock@infi.net (quark) wrote:

>I'm told tha a car magazine like "Hot Rod"? had an article a couple of years 
>ago about how to fine tune a pinewood derby car.  I think one of the tricks 
>was to have only 3 of 4 wheels touching the track.  Also many cars run faster 
>backwards because a higher back end gets them rolling off the line first as 
>the starting gate folds down into the track.
> 

Maybe that is why the Hot Tamale is so fast.  The front end curves
upwards so it has a slight edge at the start.  The bottom in between
the wheels is also carved away so there is more ground clearance.
finally I have been trying for a while to get that darn 4th wheel to
also sit on the ground on a flat surface.  Maybe I shouldn't 8-)

one other point.  I was wandering through a hobby store today and
found 'Pinewood' cars. Now I get it!  Brand name like Xeroxing instead
of copying.

Seriously most of the cars the kids build don't look anything like the
'pinewood' but they sure do enjoy the racing.  Hardest thing do do is
to get them to draw designs in three dimensions.

John.




From lee.ward@corpsoft.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Message-ID: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 96 17:49:00 -0600
Distribution: world
Organization: CorpSoft BBS - Romeoville, IL - 815-886-9388 - 28.8 USR
Reply-To: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD)
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I found 2 Oxygen Tanks that are 4x17 and were used apparently for
medical reasons,,My question is do these tanks have any useful value in
Welding or Metalwork somehow??
                              Thanks!
                                    Lee Ward
                                          We salvage an recycle
anything!!

-----------------------------------------------------------------
CorpSoft BBS, Romeoville IL : (815)886-9388 v.34 33600 (ringdown)
         20 Gig's : 21 CDROM's : RIME/FIDO/I-net/Intelec
-----------------------------------------------------------------



From vrbass@edge.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vrbass@edge.net (Vance Bass)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Model Boiler!
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 03:27:30 GMT
Organization: The Edge
Lines: 20
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mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins) wrote:

>eq48@cityscape.co.uk (Hemel Hempstead School) wrote:

>>  Any info on reference books that I can get in the UK would be
>> appreciated.

>  Model Boilers and Boilermaking by K N Harris is probably still
>available from Nexus -  in Hemel Hempstead!

My opinion of Harris' book (as a beginning machinist/boilermaker) is
that is is probably a very useful book AFTER you know how to make
boilers.  For starters, I would recommend one of Kozo Hiraoka's books
-- he has made the most difficult and arcane procedures understandable
and feasable.

His books are available through Live Steam magazine -- they should be
reachable by phone, and if you have a charge card they can charge you
the price in dollars and the bank will do the conversion to Sterling.



From tlipton@ccnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ?How to cut a grantite surface plate?
Date: 5 Jun 1996 00:35:21 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
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jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn) wrote:
>
> I was just given a granite surface plate, 12" x 18", because it was 
> damaged in shipment and replaced but "do not return" etc.  Does 
> anyone have a suggestion on cutting it off clean and neat?  Do


  Jay I recently contacted a Monument maker that had a diamond wire saw.
This is the method that is used to quarry large chunks of marble and granite. 
 In talking with this fellow he told me that they prefer to use their large
diamond bladed circular saw. He could handle up to eight inches thick with the circular
saw. He had to use the diamond wire saw for my job because of the greater depth of cut.



 Good luck  TML


From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 5 Jun 1996 13:04:56 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
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Boris Beizer (BBeizer@gnn.com) wrote:


: >Has anyone had any experience machining Teflon?

: Indeed,
: >
: >If so, how does it cut?  

: Lovely.  Use really flat tools with extreme bottom rake angles.  About 15 Degrees
: top rake and about a 30 degree angle on the bottom (e.g., 60 bottom rake). Almost
: like a woodworking bit.  Really fine polish.  Use a fine grindstone, very fine, 
: then hand hone with India and/or black arkansas stone.  Lapped mirror finish is
: best.    

: >would also like to know recommended feeds
: >and speeds for turning a small teflon part on a CNC lathe.

: Almost doesn't matter.  It is self-lubricating and will cut at almost any feed
: and speed you want.  The trouble is getting precision.  At high speeds, you get
: wobblies on the surface.  It is very soft, distorts easily, and bounces back.
: You have to take that into account.  Sort of trying to get precision machining in
: American Cheese.   


     I agree, you want to radius the front edge of the cutting tool.  I have
found that HSS works better then carbide cutting tools.  The previous post
about lapped mirror finish is exactly right, the smoother you get your reliefs
the less distortion you will have in your finished parts.  Machine it 
at speed similar to aluminum or faster if your lathe can handle it.  
Do not smoke when machining telfon.  Burning telfons contain florines,
very bad for you.  The main key to machining telfon, very sharp 
cutting tools with a radius at the tip.

Best of luck

Mike J.

: >
: >Any replies by e-mail would be much appreciated.  Thanks.
: Boris Beizer

: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
: Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
: 1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
: Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
: TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

: Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
: Please update your directories and use the above address
: (bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From jhock@pullman.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhock@pullman.com (Jim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Riveting Info Wanted
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 06:44:08 -0800
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Where can I find a good explanation of various riveting techniques? Books
and magazines always seem to assume that the reader already knows how to
set a rivet properly. I don't!

Any help appreciated.

Jim Hockenhull
-------------------------------
microcar site: http://www.wsu.edu:8080/~jhock/
-------------------------------


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29330 rec.autos.tech:172482 rec.autos.4x4:46336

Shortly after I got married, I purchased a bunch of Sears power tools.
The self chucking drill would consistently drop bits, and died completely 
just after the 1 year warantee.  The circular saw shot sparks and died 
also after 1 year. The bench grinder's rests are as useful as thin sheet
metal rests can be.  The sabor saw lost a few parts, and now cuts pretty
much randomly.  And last but not least, when I went to build jigs for the
table saw, I found out that the slots were not parallel to each other.

My preference now is for commercial grade tools, and have sworn off of 
Sears power tools.


On Tue, 4 Jun 1996, Roger Gibbs wrote:

> The price/performance of the unit actually seemed pretty good.  I don't
> know how durable they will be. As of lately I have been avoiding Sears
> tools and "false advertising" wrt to hp ratings certainly does nothing
> to change my opinion.
 


From BBeizer@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 10:40:45
Organization: GNN
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In article <4p40lo$1cs@crcnis3.unl.edu> michael jensen wrote:

>     I agree, you want to radius the front edge of the cutting tool.  

Oh yes, I forgot to mention that.  

>I have found that HSS works better then carbide cutting tools.

I concur.  Forgot to mention that also.  Carbides need high pressure to cut
nicely and there's no way to get that kind of pressure cutting teflon.

> The previous postabout lapped mirror finish is exactly right, the smoother
> you get your reliefs the less distortion you will have in your finished parts.

Many years ago (1955), working as a technician in a hospital, I spent two days
making a set of cutting tools for teflon.  It took some fiddling to get it right 
and there was no guidance in the literature because teflon was so new at the time. 
Those lapped bits were so pretty that I put them in a nice box with molded in
foam.  So this MD, who needed to do a quick job on the lathe for an experiment
of his, not knowing how to sharpen tool bits, took my bits and used them on 
stainless.  What he didn't break, he burned.  Lesson: those bits are hard work
to get right.  Keep them under lock and key--they are a temptation because they
do look nice.   

> Machine it 
>at speed similar to aluminum or faster if your lathe can handle it. 

Cautionary note on that. If it's a big diameter and you run too fast, you
get standing waves (wobblies) formed on the work--okay, so maybe my lathe 
isn't tied down well enough and I have some vibrations here and there.
Generally, I found that for rough cuts, aluminum speeds
are great, but for finish cuts to precision I slow way down. 
 
Boris
Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From klaas@uniface.nl Tue Jun 18 10:29:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: [Q] which resistance wire for electric furnace ?
Date: 6 Jun 1996 13:14:26 GMT
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I got Kanthal wire from a friend of about 1 mm thickness with
3.7 Ohms/meter.
When using 15 meters at 230 Volts power it will drag 4 Amps and thus
yield 900 W (60W/m). When using 7.5 meters it's 8 Amps and 1800 W (240 W/m).
Using the blackbody radiation formula, the theoretical wire temperature 
is 760 K *above the ambient temp* in the first case (thus 790 C)
and 1077 K in (thus about 1100 C) in the second case.
Are these values useful in practice ?
And until how much temp can Kanthal withstand (in air) ?

Klaas



From jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "j.battista" <jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Central Machinery Mini-Lathe
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 11:18:28 -0400
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If its the 7x10 i bought one about 6 months ago on sale for 499.
I sent it back because with a live center in the tailstock it looked
like you could only turn about stock about 6 inches long and i
thought that would be too limiting. with a dead center it may be 7x71/2
but i could not see any way you could turn somting 10 inches long.

joe


From vince@gw2kbbs.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Vince Kub <vince@gw2kbbs.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:51:37 -0500
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Lines: 49
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To: Bruce Conner <bconner@cybercom.net>
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On 3 Jun 1996, Bruce Conner wrote:

> 
> > 
> > (And on barrel drilling for blackpowder -- I'm with a previous poster. Go
> > to Dixie Gunworks and buy a barrel. Either that or start small and work up,
> > learning as you go.
> > 
> > Historically I don't think black powder rifle barrels were ever bored out
> > of solid stock.)
> 
> 
> Starting small is always good! :')  
> 
> My info about barrels drilled from solid stock comes from a book by Ned
> Roberts, "The Muzzle-loading Cap Lock Rifle" 3rd edition 1952.  He tells
> about barrel blanks made with a hole in them (from a short thick blank
> with a hole punched in it, then forged to a long barrel with a small hole
> in it.)  He then goes on to state that the makers of the most accurate
> guns didn't like these and used solid stock, drilled out, instead.
> 
> Just wanted you to know I wasn't talking through my hat! :')
> 
> 
> Bruce Conner
> bconner@cybercom.net
> 
> 

Bruce, 


   As I recall, one of the Foxfire books (#4 or #6, I think) deals with
metalworking and gunsmithing. It makes for interesting reading and it
turns out that even in the 18th century most rifle barrels were imported
>from  Britian (the major industrialized nation of the time), although not
neccessarily as anything more than blanks the 'smith had to rifle himself.
I believe there is one gentleman in Colonial Williamsburg that has the
skill to forge a barrel from pig iron, but he had to work out the process
>from  historical research as there was no-one alive at the time to show the
way. It's apparently a tremendous undertaking, although like most things
it can be done with the investment of sufficient sweat equity.  


		- Vince 




From alpha10@digital.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Peter Trapp <alpha10@digital.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 12:30:47 -0700
Organization: Disorganized
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To: Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com>

Tom kane wrote:
> 
> Can anyone give my the names on some good welding books?

I'm sure there are many good books out there. I use 
"Modern Welding" by Althouse Turnquist Bowditch Bowditch
published by Goodheart-Willcox Co. South Holland, Ill
because it covers the basics, and does not get lost in 
advanced theory.
--
Peter


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bridgeport spindle removal
Date: 5 Jun 1996 16:48:44 GMT
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This is in answer to Jon's questions on removing a Bridgeport spindle.

Be careful of the set screw(s) that hold the big nut (that
holds in the cartridge) from rotating .  The set screws bear 
on the threads and if you turn the nut without removing them, 
you have a real problem.

The spindle cartridge should pull out.  It is a hand-press fit into the
spindle housing.

There are three bearings in a normal Bridgeport spindle . . . two on
the bottom are class 7 bearings (207's he thinks) and one on the top
which is a 6206 and can be an off the shelf or class 5 bearing depending
on your preferences.



Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 21:13:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Lines: 34
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29337 rec.autos.tech:172515 rec.autos.4x4:46368

 
In article <4p28k7$dkj@news.inc.net>, Jerry Fields (Fieldsj@uwwvax.uww.edu) writes:
>
>Sad to say, Sears is not alone on inflating HP ratings. The figures are 
>not measured, they are calculated using current and the electromagnetic 
>strength generated by the motor's windings. I have found the name-plate 
>figures much more honest about the motor's true HP...which is about 1/2 
>the advertised 'peak' hp. So, a 3hp (advertised) motor puts out about 
>1.5hp measured. If no plate is available, calculate the wattatge consumed 
>(amps times volts, say 10a @ 115v =1150 watts) and convert it to hp by 
>dividing by 746. (746 watts=1hp) In this example, the engine would be 
>rated at 1.54 hp.
>
>I suspect the 'peak' hp calculation also includes a capacitive discharge 
>from any starting or run capacitors the motor may have installed. 
>
>Check around and you will find that Sears is not the only retailer 
>playing games with hp ratings.
>
>-- 

And there's the other "con" - many moons ago in the UK, electric
motors used to be rated as _shaft_ power, i.e. what you actually
got at the pulley.  Now they're rated according to the calculation
shown above, using Watts consumed.  The actual power output varies
according to the build quality, rotor-to-field-winding gaps, etc.
On some cheap far-East motors I've seen, many Watts of input energy
goes into heating the windings and casing, so reducing output
power. 

My lathe motor is plated as 1/3HP, but doing the electrical
calculations gives a figure about 10 - 20% higher.  It was made
about 30 - 40 years ago when, perhaps, manufacturers played the
game fairly. 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:24:49 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On 3 Jun 1996, Paolo Zini wrote:
<massive snip of all kinds of junk >

> I am absolutely not interested in rifles, but barrel drilling is one
> interesting machining problem.
> One example: I was tinking to make a modification to my lathe and to do
> this, a new, different spindle is required.
> The spindle is simple, no great problem to make one, but the hole?
> how to machine one LONG ROUND and CENTERED hole in a round stock?
> Believe me: I am not interested in rifles and similar, but i have
> abandoned the project because of the hole....
> 
Paolo,
Make the spindle.  Install it in the lathe!  Then put a drill, a "gun"
drill preferably into the tailstock.  Set it up close to the spindle.
Start the lathe and advance the drill into the spindle with the tailstock
This is the basic method.  Rotate the stock while drilling the hole with
a stationary drill and the forces involved will center the hole and keep
it there.  
After you get it drilled, then get a taper reamer and ream it to the
desired spindle taper.  
John



From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] which resistance wire for electric furnace ?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 12:11:04 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
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In article <4p045v$mbf@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu
(John M. VerBurg) wrote:

>...there are a few interested, I could post them.
> 
Please do!  Thanks.

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chop saw or horizontal band saw?
Date: 5 Jun 1996 18:00:18 GMT
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I've found an odd side-benefit to the cheap bandsaws:  I normally use it to cut
metal, but with a fairly coarse blade and a fair amount of patience, it will
act as a wood-cutting bandsaw for fairly small stock.

I've got the tools to do kitchen-cabinet grade woodworking, but never messed
with anything that wanted a bandsaw.  That changed when I agreed to do
The Rocking Horse From Hell, which for various reasons was important, but
needed a fair amount of bandsaw work.  Lacking both the wood cutting bandsaw a
and the desire to own one, I pressed my Enco into the task.  Cleaned the
oil off the guide bearings and cut away.  I used the little auxiliary
table, but didn't mount the bracef.f  Considering that the pieces were
about 6" x 8", this was fine.

As a result of the Enco, it let me finish the RHFH, and gave my S.O.'s mother
the impression that I'm a really nice guy.  Sometimes, my S.O. even agrees....

I've used cutoff saws, but generally prefer the pneumatic handheld ones
that use a 3" diameter wheel.  Under extreme circumstances, I've used
my 100mm Makita grinder as a sort-of chop saw, generally when the tiny
saw wouldn't fit into the area to cut.

Pete Brooks



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where does one find info on plastics?
Date: 5 Jun 1996 18:22:38 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 6
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In the early days of mouse use (before mouse pads were so widely
available) we used a material that was intended for drafting
tables - it came in wide rolls, was self healing and adhesive-backed.

This was years ago, but I bet an art supply store would have it.


From jfaith@nwlink.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jfaith@nwlink.com (John Faith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Telsa Bladeless Turbine Plans...
Date: 5 Jun 1996 11:19:01 -0700
Organization: me - Seattle, Washington
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The Tesla Engine Builders Association has plans for a Tesla bladeless 
turbine, and also have a newsletter covering members' work and progress 
on building said machines.  Their address (send SASE) is:

5464 N. Port Washington Rd.
Suite 293
Milwaukee, WI 53217

They also had a hand in producing the book "Tesla's Engine," which has 
many articles/interviews (early 1900's) on the turbine.

,
John Faith





From jay@ftp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling..and primative equipment
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 14:57:03
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
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In article <bconner-0506960037140001@dial4-30.cybercom.net> bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) writes:
<snip>
>Reaming it with a square reamer and doing the rifling the old fashioned
>way should be amusing.  Plenty of tinkering to take my mind off things. 
>The references I have found so far make it clear that this can be done
>with "primative" tools.  Fun Fun Fun!

--------------------------------------------------------
In recent issues, Model Engineer magazine has had articles on early (1850's)
machines for gunstock manufacturing.  These are wood framed, bolted together.
Cutters are small, forged, case hardened.  You could make one of these with
blacksmith equipment and lumber and patience.  ME also had articles on the 
early mass production of blocks (for block and tackle). There was a great
deal accomplished in the last century with the tools that we today would 
have in our DIY or "basic around the house repair kits".  
Good reading to inspire you.   
Build your own wooden ship navy and amaze the neighbours!  :-)
Cheers
Jay



From wblack@templar.fgi.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wblack@mail.fgi.net (Walter Black)
Subject: unknown lathe identification
Message-ID: <657cc$ee11.261@ntnews.fgi.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 20:14:17 GMT
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Anyone heard of a KBC lathe?  It has a square head, back gears and
 is 8" swing by 16" between centers.  It is cast iron (steel?) with no
sheet metal parts and is painted a grayish tan.  It only has a company
logo on the quick change gear chart.  The logo is red print representation
of a gear with an H in the center with an L through the crossbar of the H.

The backgear that drives the bull gear is stripped and I would like to find
a part before exploring how much it would cost to have one made!

Scott Logan thought that it may have been imported by KBC tools.  Has
anyone heard of KBC tools?

Walt Black
wblack@templar.fgi.net




From kward@sr.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kward@sr.hp.com (Kelley Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: ATS-34 ? even in Canada?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Date: 5 Jun 1996 19:49:53 GMT
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Nickolay V Golego (ngolego@uoguelph.ca) wrote:

: Dear metal netters,

:   I'm looking for a source of ATS-34 steel (or 440C, G-2) for khife 
: making.  Surprisingly, there aren't many places selling these types of 
: steel in Canada, at least to my phone book knowledge.  

:   If you know of a place which sells strip ATS-34 steel, wherever it be, 
: I would be very happy to hear your advice.  Or alternatively, if you know
: about a good knife steel which is readily available -- please spare your
: experience. 

:   Looking forward to your comments,


:                                              Nick
:                                  <golego@chembio.uoguelph.ca>


I use the following suppliers as a source for steel.  Jantz carries 440C
but not ATS-34 (at least last time I checked)

Knife supplies:

  Jantz                        1-800-351-8900
  Sheffields Knife SUpplies    1-800-874-7007
  Texas Knife Supplies         1-713-461-8632
  K&G finishing supplies       1-800-972-1192


Regards,
Kelley Ward


From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where does one find info on plastics?
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:07:00 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 28
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Go to your local Drafting Supplies Store and ask them for a D size
drawing board pad.  They probably have a roll of self healing plastic
drafting pad in 4 foot width cut to length.  If not, the D size table
is about 4 x 6 foot.  It heals itself after puching it full of holes and
things with drafting instruments.  Great stuff.  I have been using it on
my drawing boards since about 1955!
John


On Tue, 4 Jun 1996, John Hunt wrote:

> My girlfriend is taking up sewing and they have these cutters which are 
> like wickedly sharp pizza cutters.  [Yes, I can personally attest to the 
> sharpness! :(  ]  Anyway, they need to be used on a soft plastic surface, 
> and the little pads they sell in the yardage store seem rediculously high 
> priced.  $45 for 25"x35"!  
> 
> So, I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find info on a type of
> plastic I can use to replace this.  I want to build my girlfirend a
> cutting table measuring 4'x6' so the cost of this plastic surface has 
> become a major issue. 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> -John-
> 
> 


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:12:10 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <31b61e39.175245145@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) having written:

>I found 2 Oxygen Tanks that are 4x17 and were used apparently for
>medical reasons,,My question is do these tanks have any useful value 

Pressure vessels need all sorts of certification. You _could_ get
these re-tested as necessary and put back into service, but I doubt if
it's worth it - it's almost always simpler to use new cylinders, with
the manufacturer's paperwork.

We have a stack of CO2 cylinders around here (beer pressurisation)
which we buy cheaply and half empty, use the gas for mig welding, then
discard empty. Some have been cut on the bandsaw as a supply of heavy
gauge tube. One is a 50psi air reservoir to power the kitchen
pneumatic system (yes, really), with a fridge compressor supplying the
rest. Half of one is a door stop.  They're handy if you need heavy
gauge tubing, but they're not a great find.

If you read the book "Great Mambo Chicken", you might get some ideas
for crossing the Grand Canyon with a steam rocket built out of O2
cylinders   8-)




From soule@maine.maine.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: you@somehost.somedomain (Your Name Here)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sears lathes, 109. series
Date: 5 Jun 1996 21:31:40 GMT
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Clausing Service Center was recommended to another inquirer about
 a 109. series Sears lathe. Clausing's phone is (219) 533-0371, but 
the address is Goshen, Indiana.  They told me that the 109. 
lathes were all made by AA Mfg. and AA is out of business, so
 no spare parts are available.  That leaves me looking for a headstock
spindle - apparently 14mm in dia, but threaded US 1/2 inch for the 
3-jaw chuck and faceplates I picked up with the lathe (mine is
109.21270).  I happened on some 14mm stock - a shaft in a scrapped 
computer printer, of all things, installed a length of it, and cut 
the thread as well as I could.  Not very well, apparently, as the 
chuck runs out grossly.  I can do some rough turning between centers
but I haven't brought the machine up to any kind of precision.  It's 
been fun tinkering, and the price was right!
             Bill Soule  aka    RRx - The Train Doctor - RRx


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Coachbolts : was Apologies . and an appropriate question
Date: 6 Jun 1996 00:08:40 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Peter Wiley wrote:
>Unless you've got special reasons, buy, don't make. Threaded rod is
>available in standard sizes, in lengths up to 12' long. If you do need
>something with a head on it, definitely buy. Even with a couple metal
>lathes at my disposal, I'd never make anything like this if I could buy it.
>
Making bolts is more a matter of forge work than lathe work. I've made a
fair number in a blacksmith shop. Not at all difficult once you're set up, and
really kinda fun, especially if you're still learning basic smithing
skills. But
it does take a while to get set up since you'll probably have to fabricate a
heading die -- forming by upsetting and shaping with a hammer is a pain.

Oh yeah, I was _not_ using galvanized rod. We used a baked linseed oil finish
instead.

--RC


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:12:08 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 10
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The moving finger of cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias) having written:

>I want to cast a large number, about 170, of small aluminum parts.  Is
>there any possibility of re-using a plaster mold for this?  

I'd approach this by making a slightly flexible positive master in
catalyst-cure polyurethane, with maybe half-a dozen links on it, and
all the sprues. From this I'd cast as many plaster moulds as I needed,
then cast all my metal in one pouring.



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears Compressors
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 17:36:48 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
Lines: 86
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<76257.3632@compuserve.com> wrote:

>      Obviously, the unit was never designed for serious or strenuous use, though 3 HP should have been
>adequate for the limited hobby-type use I was making.

If it was _really _ 3 HP that is.

Caveat Emptor:
Air compressor manufacturers seem to be following the lead of vacuum
cleaner manufacturers and re-defining the horsepower.

For example :
I have a " rating: 4" ( granted it doesn't actually say  " 4
horsepower") Campbell Hausfeld unit which draws 15 A at 115VAC.  CH
got Emerson to lable the HP field of the motor  placard "SPL".
_nowhere_ on the unit, or in the manual that came with it is there
_any_ horsepower rating. 

Now 15A x 115V gets  1.73kVA.  If I assume  a .9 power factor
(probably generous for single phase motor, even with  a run capacitor)
thats just 1.55 k W...assuming 90% effiency (again, probably generous)
thats  1.4 kW mechanical, or just  1.87 HP!!.  Even a "perfect" 15A
motor could only make 2.3 HP at 115V!!

That being said,  It does seem to pump the rated 6.6 SCFM @ 90 psi, as
it keeps up with a 5.9 cfm rated sander just fine.   It is also the
biggest machine I could run on "common" 115VAC. I run it on 230 in my
shop, but made up some "quick change " cords (attaching cord re-wires
motor) so I can run it on 115V when a remote job demands it.

I bought this about 4 years ago, and now see even more rediculous
power ratings on machines for sale.    They  now actually have the
nerve to say "horsepower" Also, those blasted oiless designs seem to
be supplanting the beltdriven machines, which I think is a shame.

>    After that experience, I gave up on the "home-shop" type units, picked up a low-time 80-gal 5hp/ two-stage type unit
>from a small auto shop going out of business for $500.   Now I can't even begin to use all the air pressure and volume
>I get.  don't remember the brand, but it's a "major" make, about $1300 new, retail (Quincy, maybe?).

Running the electrical numbers on the "industrial" type machines lands
in the right ballpark (I still have to "guess" at effiency and power
factor).  I suppose these markets know what kind of service to expect
>from  a 5 or 7.5 HP machine, and won't tolerate the kind of nonsense
going on in the "consumer" marketplace.

> I wouldn't touch on of the new home-shop  type Sears/Craftsman units again.  Having looked them
>over since, they all seem to have the same "direct-drive",  undersized compressor-head. 

I have never been impressed with the oiless direct drive pumps.  I
inherited a  Monkey Ward (built by CH) 1 HP (honest)  unit which dad
ran for probably 15 years. I ran it for a couple more, and then traded
it for a Jet mill-drill ( straight across....best deal I ever made!).
The new owner probably runs it 2-3 times/week., and it is still going
strong. That CH 2 cyl cast iron pump with the belt drive is a pretty
solid unit.  Think they still make it...at least they look the same.

> If I couldn't 
>pop for the $500 a terrific used one like mine would cost, I'd probably build one with one of the 5 hp
>motors I have laying around and a compressor head (3-5 hp rated) from Harbor Freight.  The tank is no real trick,
>since you're only looking at 150psi in practice.  I've accumulated a couple and they're around, cheap.

I agree with this, unless you are wanting a portable unit  of around 2
HP tops.   Then go for a belt driven model with a run capacitor (two
lumps on motor) and a startup unloader. (small air line running to
pressure switch housing from tank inlet)

I think CH sells those cast iron pumps....The HF thing is an aluminum
product of china, isn't it?  Actually, the recent HSM article on using
an automotive AC compressor got may attention.

I haven't seen any lies on the electrical current ratings.  To get an
idea of "true" horsepower, multiply volts times amps, then divide by
1000 for capacitor run motor, or 1200 for  capacitor start motor.
Betcha come up with maybe 1/2 the claimed power.  Truth hurts!

Motors vary a little in effiency, and power factor, but those figures
will get you  in the infield, not just the ballpark.

Dividing by 748 would give you the power of a "perfect" (100%
effiecient & unity power factor) motor...If they are claiming more (or
even equal) then you are being lied to, plain and simple.

Check the oil, and drain the tank  regularly.

ciao, Kevin



From tabco@alpha.pulsar.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tabco@alpha.pulsar.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bridgeport spindle preload ?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 19:15:50 PDT
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> If anyone knows what the procedure is to remove the spindle and
> bearings, I'd sure appreciate it.  Thanks,
>                                             Jon
> 
  I run my Bridgeport for extended periods at high speeds, so bearing 
replacement is needed about twice per year.  We also do surface milling with 
index cutters on this machine, and the worn bearings will leave waves in the 
surface of a machined part, so we change them a lot, despite the high cost.  
Aftermarket bearings are about $200 for the set, and not as good as 
Bridgeports.  Last set for my 2J head were just over $400.
   The spindle is removed by removing the drawbar, collet, and nose ring and 
dropping the inner spindle out of the quill.  You do not have to remove the 
quill.  This is a splined setup, since the normal quill travel never uses the 
top of the spline, sometimes you have to inset a brass rod in the drawbar 
hole, and give it a slight tap.  Mine will fall out when the nose is removed, 
as I have had it apart about 10 times.  Bearings are installed in opposition 
to each other.  They are marked, and come with instructions.  Use the propper 
bearingsand orientation.  Don't replace the bottom two with ordinary bearings. 
 These are a loaded bearing.  Any questions, feel free to E-Mail me.

Thomas

tabco@alpha.pulsar.net
http://www.pulsar.net/~tabco/





From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Tue Jun 18 10:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: 5 Jun 1996 13:55:06 -0700
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There was a long thread here about a year ago on compressors and I
recall one piece of advice: before you buy, go to an industrial
supplier and check for used commercial units. They don't play *Sears
math* and the units may be better built. Your Yellow Pages should list
local firms that deal in quality air equipment. As a general rule, I
have found that most tools and equipment sold in retail stores do not
equal the genuine pro stuff, but those suppliers may be harder to
find. In my area, these companies are usually listed (but no ads) in
the Yellow Pages but are found only on side streets in the industrial
parts of town. Prices may be high, but if quality is available, it is there.
___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu 	 	 They don't Photojournalism
sequence 	 	 Call this place Department of Mass
Communication 	 An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 15:40:57 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 72
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David William Jenkins wrote:
> 
> 
> In article <4p28k7$dkj@news.inc.net>, Jerry Fields (Fieldsj@uwwvax.uww.edu) writes:
> >
> >Sad to say, Sears is not alone on inflating HP ratings. The figures are
> >not measured, they are calculated using current and the electromagnetic
> >strength generated by the motor's windings. I have found the name-plate
> >figures much more honest about the motor's true HP...which is about 1/2
> >the advertised 'peak' hp. So, a 3hp (advertised) motor puts out about
> >1.5hp measured. If no plate is available, calculate the wattatge consumed
> >(amps times volts, say 10a @ 115v =1150 watts) and convert it to hp by
> >dividing by 746. (746 watts=1hp) In this example, the engine would be
> >rated at 1.54 hp.

presuming the subject  motor is operated on alternating current:

115 Volt X 10 Amps = 1150 volt-amperes (not watts)

assuming a power factor of .8, 
the input would be  1150 va X .8 = 920 watts

assuming an efficiency of .8,  
the output would be 920 (watts in) x .8 (eff) = 736 watts

The output hp would be 736/746 = .9+ hp

Of course breakdown torque, etc. may limit hp ratings.

At one time in the 1960s a given machine was marketed as a great 1/4hp, 
good 1/3hp, lousy (but passable) 1/2 hp.  Only the nameplate was changed 
(to protect the innocent?).  I believe the 1/2 hp under full load probably,
glowed in the dark

> >
> >I suspect the 'peak' hp calculation also includes a capacitive discharge
> >from any starting or run capacitors the motor may have installed.
> >

Probably for a limited time also... Read the fine print on electric welders...


> >Check around and you will find that Sears is not the only retailer
> >playing games with hp ratings.
> >
> >--
> 
> And there's the other "con" - many moons ago in the UK, electric
> motors used to be rated as _shaft_ power, i.e. what you actually
> got at the pulley.  Now they're rated according to the calculation
> shown above, using Watts consumed.  The actual power output varies
> according to the build quality, rotor-to-field-winding gaps, etc.
> On some cheap far-East motors I've seen, many Watts of input energy
> goes into heating the windings and casing, so reducing output
> power.

Scratch out the "far East", above.  I recall oil burner motors that were about 60% 
efficient.  No one cared since PRICE was the golden calf...  The homeowner paid the 
price eventually in his electric bill.
> 
> My lathe motor is plated as 1/3HP, but doing the electrical
> calculations gives a figure about 10 - 20% higher.  It was made
> about 30 - 40 years ago when, perhaps, manufacturers played the
> game fairly.
> 

See above

> David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
> ***********************************************************************
> * All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
> * superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 16:52:12 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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Your Name Here wrote:
> 
> Clausing Service Center was recommended to another inquirer about
>  a 109. series Sears lathe. Clausing's phone is (219) 533-0371, but
> the address is Goshen, Indiana.  They told me that the 109.
> lathes were all made by AA Mfg. and AA is out of business, so
>  no spare parts are available.  That leaves me looking for a headstock
> spindle - apparently 14mm in dia, but threaded US 1/2 inch for the
> 3-jaw chuck and faceplates I picked up with the lathe (mine is
> 109.21270).  I happened on some 14mm stock - a shaft in a scrapped
> computer printer, of all things, installed a length of it, and cut
> the thread as well as I could.  Not very well, apparently, as the
> chuck runs out grossly.  I can do some rough turning between centers
> but I haven't brought the machine up to any kind of precision.  It's
> been fun tinkering, and the price was right!
>              Bill Soule  aka    RRx - The Train Doctor - RRx

Read Frank McLean's (Village Press, "The Best of Frank McLean" Pg 27) article on 
registers, shoulders, etc.  After reading that you will realize that chucks do not 
center on threads.  Think about a short mandrel.  The threads hold the chuck on,
the register centers, while the spindle shoulder keeps things square.  He also
describes how to cure some problems.  I had a faceplate giving me problems.
I was alway told I could remove a faceplate with work on it, and put it back keeping my 
center.  I miked the register are and found it to be 1.533 in.  The register area of 
the spindle was righton at 1.500...  

Have fun with your lathe.  I'm sure enjoying mine...


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:34:03 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <blake-0606960034500001@206.84.2.63>
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$ We have a stack of CO2 cylinders around here (beer pressurisation)
$ which we buy cheaply and half empty, use the gas for mig welding, then
$ discard empty. Some have been cut on the bandsaw as a supply of heavy
$ gauge tube. One is a 50psi air reservoir to power the kitchen
$ pneumatic system (yes, really), with a fridge compressor supplying the
$ rest. Half of one is a door stop.  They're handy if you need heavy
$ gauge tubing, but they're not a great find.

They also make nice low-tone bells if cut right.  I've seen them at craft shows.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From lmcgee@sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee McGee <lmcgee@sgi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 20:36:54 -0700
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
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> Tom kane wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone give my the names on some good welding books?

EAA's (Experimental Aircraft Association) "Aircraft Welding" has lots
of good articles on oxy-acetylene welding, with information on
jigging and notching tubing, and a lot of information about problem
weldment designs, and how to correct them.

Check out "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch and Tom Monroe, which
I picked up at an auto supply store of all places!  This has some
really good overview information on MIG & TIG, A/C Arc,
D/C arc, spot welding, gas welding and cutting, brazing and soldering.
A very nice book indeed!  Publisher is "HPBooks".

-- 
    Lee McGee   lmcgee@corp.sgi.com
                leemcgee@well.com                      |                  
    (415)390-2403   FAX (415)961-9584     GRUMMAN     _|_   
    http:/reality.sgi.com/lmcgee_corp/    AA-5B  ____/___\____ 
    "When I fly, I feel an isolation      ___________[=o=]___________
     extreme and radiant"                 TIGER   e/   o   \e
        - Peter Garrison


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this material from soldering iron.
Date: 6 Jun 1996 06:09:21 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4p5smh$ao6@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <4ohnr4$g3a@news1.io.org>, Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org> wrote:
>Damon Brantley (brantley@telepath.com) wrote:
>
>Probably mica sheet, it is used in a lot of heaters that have to operate 
>fairly hot.

I've taken apart several Wellers, and I'm pretty sure that the material
is Mica[

>Where to get it in small quantities, I don't have any idea.
>Vaccum tubes used (use?) little stamped pieces of mica to hold the wires 
>in position. 

I think the US government has an *enormous* stockpile of it, or at
least they did as of a few years ago.  All the result of a shortage
of it in WW2, where it was an important insulator in high-quality
RF capacitors and (as you note) tubes.  The stockpile was one of
the targets of ridicule by some senator or congressperson who was
trying to find waste in the government and military several years
ago, I think.  (Any actually useful material will be greatly mocked
by politicians if it's used in the construction of anything as
"obsolete" as high-voltage tubes and radio equipment.)

Flat pieces of mica are readily available as heat-sink insulators
for semiconductors.  The mica HS insulators that I'm familiar with are
rather brittle and not easily bent tightly, but you might give
the stuff a try.  Radio Shack almost certainly sells both TO-220
and TO-3 heat sink insulators in small quantities.  The lat time
I bought such insulators at Radio Shack they appeared to be mica.

Tim. (shoppa@krl.caltech.edu)


From cn2983@coastalnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cn2983@coastalnet.com (Kurt Hesse)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this material from soldering iron.
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 04:02:59 GMT
Organization: Global Information Exchange Corp.
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brantley@telepath.com (Damon Brantley) wrote:

>        I dissected a soldering iron (out of curiosity) and noticed that some 
>type of non electrical conducting sheet to insulate the heater wire from the 

Snip...

>        Does anyone have any idea what this material might be and where I 
>might be able to purchase some.
>        Thanks.

Definitely sounds like mica.  The stuff used to be very commonly used
to insulate power semiconductors from heatsinks (good thermal
conductivity and dielectric strength).  You might try a heatsink
manufacturer such as Aavid (sp?), Thermalloy, or Wakefield (EG&G).
These will sell you pieces cut for TO-3, TO-220, TO-247 etc.
semiconductor packages.  You could also try Electrical Insulation
Suppliers (EIS) Fabrico division.  I don't know if they handle mica or
not, but they do have things such as kapton and nomex, which both have
excellent high temperature characteristics (though not quite like mica
does).

Kurt


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 21:34:15 -0700
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References: <31AFCA81.D7F@mis.nb.ca> <4ooc4v$sj2@mars.hyperk.com> <jnaylor-0106961001550001@192.0.2.1> <31B1AC33.1F31@worldnet.att.net> <jnaylor-0206961515220001@192.0.2.1> <1996Jun4.153756.11779@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov><4p28k7$dkj@news.inc.net> <195@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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As a matter of curiosity, I had a look at the name plate of the Baldor
motor on my lathe ... It is rated at 7.8 amps at 115 volts, it has a
claimed efficiency of 63% and a rated horsepower of 0.5.

The moral of the story - you get what you pay for .... it is probably
quite expensive for a 1/2 hp motor (I didn't buy it myself) but if you
compare it against a 2hp motor of dubious origin it's probably not so
bad.

Jens


From grind@earthlink.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bob engnath <grind@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: ATS-34 ? even in Canada?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 22:30:24 -0700
Organization: self
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31B66CF0.2C7F@earthlink.net>
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To: Dean Denter <ddenter@magi.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29362 rec.knives:8959

Dean Denter wrote:
> 
> In article <4oquot$a5d@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>,
>    ngolego@uoguelph.ca (Nickolay V Golego) wrote:
> >
> >Dear metal netters,
> >
> >  I'm looking for a source of ATS-34 steel (or 440C, G-2) for khife
> >making.  Surprisingly, there aren't many places selling these types of
> >steel in Canada, at least to my phone book knowledge.
> >
> >  If you know of a place which sells strip ATS-34 steel, wherever it be,
> >I would be very happy to hear your advice.  Or alternatively, if you know
> >about a good knife steel which is readily available -- please spare your
> >experience.
> >
> >  Looking forward to your comments,
> >
> 
> don't know of any sources for new stock, but last time I built knives,
> a couple of friends and I went down to a sawmill and bought one of
> their worn out or broken bandsaw blades.  This blade was a band 15-20'
> long and about 9" wide with 1.5" teeth cut in one side (ie around 7"
> of useable material), it was around 1/16" thick.  Great stuff to build
> knives with.  I'd imagine that the round blades would do just as well,
> maybe a little thicker though.
> 
> regards,
> Dean.
> ddenter@magi.com

  The saw blade stuff is L-6, not ATS 34.
bob grind@earthlink.net


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:21:43 -0400
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In article <Pine.A32.3.91.960605100009.79910B-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>,
David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> wrote:

$ Shortly after I got married, I purchased a bunch of Sears power tools.
$ The self chucking drill would consistently drop bits, and died completely 
$ just after the 1 year warantee.  The circular saw shot sparks and died 
$ also after 1 year. The bench grinder's rests are as useful as thin sheet
$ metal rests can be.  The sabor saw lost a few parts, and now cuts pretty
$ much randomly.  And last but not least, when I went to build jigs for the
$ table saw, I found out that the slots were not parallel to each other.
$ 
$ My preference now is for commercial grade tools, and have sworn off of 
$ Sears power tools.

I believe the old Sears and Craftsman power tools (>20 years) were real
good.  Now I would not buy their power tools- Craftsman hand tools yes,
power tools no.

As far as compressors go-- if you want a good one that will last most of a
lifetime, get a Champion, a Curtis, or a Quincy, and be sure to verify
that it's 100% American.  Many compressors out there with American
sounding names have Chinese (or worse) pumps.  The tanks are almost all
made here as the other country's welding won't pass code.  Also seams the
slower the pump's rpms, the better and the quieter.

I just bought a 5 hp Champion two stage and I'm very happy with it.  It's
made in Illinois and has a 5 hp Baldor 1750 rpm motor and magnetic
starter.  Also an inter-cooler and 80 gallon tank.  It's great.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From sherrick@slonet.org Tue Jun 18 10:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 01:54:18 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.93.960606015010.28606B-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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To: Jim Shockey <shockey@primenet.com>
In-Reply-To: <shockey.516.04CC5747@primenet.com>

Try the used book store. Audel puts out a couple on welding that are
so-so, Lincoln puts out the Proceedure Handbook of arc welding good book
for the price, Modern welding is good. The american welding society's
handbook are excelent but technically oriented. 

Also try the local school bookstore. If they have a welding program they
will have welding books. that way when you have a problem, you can take
the class with only a minimum investment unless they change the book ;-)

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On 4 Jun 1996, Jim Shockey wrote:

> In article <31B37B59.5EC8@Litronic.com> Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com> writes:
> >From: Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com>
> >Subject: Books on Welding
> >Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 16:55:05 -0700
> 
> >Can anyone give my the names on some good welding books?
> 
> 
> http://www.amweld.org/books.html
> 
> 
> 
> --jim			<shockey@primenet.com>
> 
> 



From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: UNF?? Thead Form Question
Date: 6 Jun 1996 12:31:03 GMT
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Lines: 13
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5/16-32 is NEF (Extra-file-thread series)

Basic pitch diameter is 0.2922
      minor diameter is 0.2719
Helix angle at basic pitch diameter is 1o 57'

This is from ASA B1.1-1949

(actually from Tool Engineers Handbook, 1949, first
edition. Truly a GREAT book.)

Charlie



From speff@io.org Tue Jun 18 10:29:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this material from soldering iron.
Date: 6 Jun 1996 14:37:04 GMT
Organization: Internex Online (shell.io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Lines: 23
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Kurt Hesse (cn2983@coastalnet.com) wrote:
[..]
: semiconductor packages.  You could also try Electrical Insulation
: Suppliers (EIS) Fabrico division.  I don't know if they handle mica or

Or just rip apart a toaster.. there are usually a few good sized  sheets 
of mica in there with nichrome ribbon wrapped around them. I'll bet it 
would cost less than the minimum order from most industrial sources. 

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=










From jfisch@soho.ios.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jerry Fischman <jfisch@soho.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Detailed description of precision metal casting pocesses.
Date: 6 Jun 1996 15:17:40 GMT
Organization: Internet Online Services
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Visit our web site at http://soho.ios.com/~jfisch to see a detailed 
description of the precision ceramic casting process, the investment 
casting process, and the various methods for manufacturing precision 
ceramic cores and other ceramic articles. 




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: old lathe gears
Date: 6 Jun 1996 16:46:29 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4p7215$c7o@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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For anybody in the SF bay area, there are a few Atlas lathe parts available
at Triangle Machine Tool in San Jose.  It's a tiny selection, but if you
really need one or two gears (or reverse toggle, etc), it's worth a
phone call.

BTW, I suspect the prices are high.  Not really familiar with Atlas parts,
but that's my take.

Pete Brooks

Gordon French (Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net) wrote:
: I have a 6" Atlas without change gears.  Are they still available.  I'll 
: pay you AND the postage.
:      Gordon French
:  gordon.french@worldnet.att.net



From fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Central Machinery Mini-Lathe
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 10:40:36 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31B6EDE4.65E8@gaas.enet.dec.com>
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To: Doug Palmer <ecad81@email.mot.com>

...
> Harbor Freight tools sells alot of machines made by Central Machinery. I
> think it is a Chinese company.
> In particular, I was interested in the mini-lathe they have for $750.
> 
> I have never used a lathe before, so I wanted to know if this is a
> decent machine to start out with.
> 
> I'm mainly interested in using the lathe to make knurled screws and
> nuts. I collect old telegraph equipment, and items I find are frequently
> missing these parts.
> 
> The lathe must be pretty popular, as it is currently on back-order.
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks

I don't know about Central Machinery but I have a 7x10 Mini-lathe that
Harbor Freight and ENCO sell.  ENCO's price is $939.00 and Harbor Freights
price is $489.99  As far as I can tell they are exactly the same.
Mine is for sale for $400.00 but I'm in Massachusetts and really don't
want to ship it.

I think it would be very good for making knurled screws and nuts because
even tho small it is good and solid (all steel not aluminum like a sherline)
and the variable speed DC motor can slow up nicely for screw cutting.
Of course if you were going to truly spend a lot of time making screws
of various pitch then you would want a lathe with a quick change gear box
but we're also talking more money here.

Bye
Kay R. Fisher


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Date: 6 Jun 1996 17:01:31 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29370 rec.autos.tech:172720 rec.autos.4x4:46477

I'll pitch in my two cents, here.  I got a belt drive Craftsman a few
years ago, but back when a 3hp compressor actually had an honest 3hp
motor.  I run it off its own 220V circuit in my garage (what joy to have
a 100A service panel in a detached garage!) and it's been troublefree
>from  day 1.

Unless I'm running cutoff tools at 100psi, the compressor has little
trouble keeping up.  I just hung two 4 x 8 sheets of 1/2" ply in my 
garage, and since I couldn't find the 10d adapter for my Senco, I
put them in with 16 d nails.  After several bouts of tendinitis, many
caused by swinging a hammer, such a tool has a well-regarded place in
my shop.

I'm mildly embarrased to admit that I haven't checked the oil in the
compressor for quite a long time.  However, I drain the tank every time
I use the beast (it'll frequently go for weeks without being used--I don't
like air guns around my machine tools) to get the water out, and the thing
is working fine.

As far as general shop use goes, I'd recommmend the honest 3hp belt drive
system.  If you go with less power, you will eventually run out of cfm and
it's a royal pain to have to wait for the compressor to catch up.  If you
are debating between two power levels, I'd say to go with the bigger
compressor unless your current needs are *well* below the lesser machine.  I
got lucky; the Senco air nailer was one of the reasons I bought the
compressor, though I would not have regretted getting a 5hp.

(If all you want to do is air brush models, I'd skip the 5hp Ingersol Rand,
but I don't see any trouble with putting an airbrush downstream of an
oil filter on my Sears.)

Pete Brooks



From bobfa@comm.mot.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
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From: bobfa@comm.mot.com (Bob Fairbairn)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Organization: Motorola LMPS
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 10:13:29 -0600
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In article <4p28k7$dkj@news.inc.net>, Jerry Fields
<Fieldsj@uwwvax.uww.edu> wrote:

> Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov> wrote:
> >jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor) wrote:
> >
> >>>I certainly remember the 115v 4.5 HP shop-vac!
> 
> <snip>
> >
> >The price/performance of the unit actually seemed pretty good.  I don't
> >know how durable they will be. As of lately I have been avoiding Sears
> >tools and "false advertising" wrt to hp ratings certainly does nothing
> >to change my opinion.
> >
> 
> Sad to say, Sears is not alone on inflating HP ratings.
> -- 
> Jerry Fields
> UW Whitewater, Whitewater, WI USA
> DoD #1697
> 
> "I'm a great believer in luck. The harder I work, 
>  the more I have of it." -- Thomas Jefferson
Snip...

I am seeing the inflated horsepower in shop vacs, Sears "stuff" and the
Cambell H???? stuff.  Where is Ralph Nader when you need him.  Take a look
a the name plate ratings on the motor, if it says "SP" or "Special"  you
will need to estimate the real HP.  Also it is interesting to see 16 AWG
wire on a  "5HP" motor; I know the wire is the fuse!

As as a side note household vacumm cleaners are now rated in amps.  Gee,
how big of a resistor can I put it there to draw 11amps!!!

Bob Fairbairn
Disbelieving Consumer
Sears Su??? Craftsman is a lie, Bob Villa sold out, and so did Norm!

-- 
"The meek shall inherit the Earth.  The rest of us                  will go to the stars." -- Heinlein? 


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Apologies .... and an appropriate question
Date: 6 Jun 1996 11:47:56 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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>
>I want to make coach bolts (for gates rather than coaches, but never
>mind) out of ten millimeter round stock.  I have 10mm taps & dies, but
>I have never used either a tap or a die.  I'd rather not bugger up a
>tool by doing something stupid with it: are there tricks to using
>these things beyond "Go slow, lubricate, and clear them often"?  And
>what does one lubricate them with anyway??  I assume that sump oil is
>not the stuff.
>
>Cheers,
>	Randall.

Randall,
     Most hardware or plumbing supply shops will have cutting oil.  I've 
heard it described as "lard oil".  The older version is also described as 
"sulfur based".  Newer products such as that sold under the Tap-Matic 
brand name are probably better in a production setting but on mild steel 
with small numbers of parts, the old stuff is probably as good as any.  I 
think any of the thread cutting oils on steel will be better than motor 
oil but in a pinch, even WD-40 is better than dry.

rhg



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re:what is this material from soldering iron
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 16:29:42 GMT
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I bought some 10x10 approx. sheets of mica from the Defense Logistics
Agency surplus sale in Tucson this last february. Seems the government
doesn't need it's stockpile anymore.


From BBeizer@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 14:15:27
Organization: GNN
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References: <4p1rp9$n6o@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> <4p23mj$7hr@news-e2b.gnn.com> <31b702dd.1828727@news.fix.net>
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In article <31b702dd.1828727@news.fix.net> Ron Yost wrote:

>I've had trouble with little threads of Teflon wrapping themselves around the
>stock and clogging the cut - have to stop now and again to clean it all out. I'd
>thought it was caused by static electricity making the threads cling to the rod,
>but I suppose my bits aren't ground properly. Same thing happens with Nylon.
>
>Thanks a lot for the bit grinding and lapping info - I'm sure that's my problem!

That **is** yet another problem I forgot to mention.  If those are really thin
little threads (as it seems) then they are probably caused by the rough grinding
of your bit.  The swarf should come off just like for metal.
   For what it's worth, it's not static.  It's mechanical. Following your lead,
on a hunch, I just tried to see if lubricating with an anti-static spray did any good.
Other than the miminal cutting improvement due to lubrication, it didn't affect the
plastic's tendency to wrap around.  Tried it with lexan, teflon, nylon, and acrylic.
They all wrap and the softer the plastic the worse the wrap.  Lowered speed and 
coarser feed seemed to help.
   I never thought about this annoying little problem.  Any ideas out there?
How about trying something like a chip-breaker notch? Or maybe we need some
side rake?  Obviously, the ideal tool wouldn't have these problems.  Must be
a ***real*** soft-plastic machinist out there with the definitive answer.

Boris
  
Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 6 Jun 1996 12:26:14 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4p77s6$4l0@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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>>I found 2 Oxygen Tanks that are 4x17 and were used apparently for
>>medical reasons,,My question is do these tanks have any useful value 
>
>Pressure vessels need all sorts of certification. You _could_ get
>these re-tested as necessary and put back into service, but I doubt if
>it's worth it - it's almost always simpler to use new cylinders, with
>the manufacturer's paperwork.


I don't know about 4 x 17 cylinders but... I own my own welding 
cylinders.  Last time I had to have one recertified, I left it at the gas 
suppliers, paid a fee and when I picked it up it was full and 
recertifed.  I didn't have to provide any proof of ownership or 
manufacturer's paperwork.  I'd check it out before dismissing the idea, 
depending on what need you have for them in the first place.

rhg




From BBeizer@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Soft Material Machining (Was Teflon machining)
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 14:37:45
Organization: GNN
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Back when I was working in the hospital lab (1954-56) I had
to machine a big (10" diameter x 20" high) container made out
of lead.  Walls only 1" thick.  Had to be one piece (except
the cover) to prevent any kind of radioactive material 
leakage.  Had to be very accurate (for lead, that is) +-3 thou.
Again to minimize radioactive leakage.   I had a 24" x 120 lathe 
at my disposal for the job.  I spent a lot more time remelting and
recasting the swarf to start over again than I did machining.  30
years later, in the (MUST BE ON YOUR BOOKSHELF--DOVER PUBLICATIONS)
classical book by Holtzapfel (1810 or thereabout) I read his
recommendations to use sour milk as a lubricant--but if that turned
you off, try dirty water!!!  Holtzapfel, I have learned, besides
being the father of almost all our modern machine tools, is never
wrong.  I immediately tried the dirty water.  Didn't have that
much lead around nor a big enough lathe, but I turned a 3" d x 6"
long bored-out cylinder in a few hours with an inner tolerance of
+-2 thou. Holtzapfel wins again.  
    I couldn't stand the sour milk or wait around for it cure, but I 
tried and found that thinned out yogurt works just as well.  His
explanation for this marvelous lubrication technique is that the 
trouble with lead is that it resolders itself.  The dirty water and/or
sour milk promotes an instant oxidation that prevents the metal from
resoldering.
    Something like that might be going on with soft plastics.  Surely
this is a phenomenon that affects all low-melting temperature
stock.  Instead of lapped bits, it might be just a question of finding
the right lubricant. Fiberglass mold release?  Sour WD-40? 

Boris
   
Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From rfra@rsvl.unisys.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Frazier <rfra@rsvl.unisys.com>
Subject: Re: Soft Material Machining (Was Teflon machining)
Sender: news@rsvl.unisys.com (News Admin)
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Boris Beizer wrote:
> 
> Back when I was working in the hospital lab (1954-56) I had
> to machine a big (10" diameter x 20" high) container made out
> of lead.  snip
>     Something like that might be going on with soft plastics.  Surely
> this is a phenomenon that affects all low-melting temperature
> stock.  Instead of lapped bits, it might be just a question of finding
> the right lubricant. Fiberglass mold release?  Sour WD-40?
> 
> Boris
> 
> Boris Beizer
> 
> 	How about lead bullet lube from a gun store? Alox & beeswax?
Without lube lead bullets "lead" or solder up a bore at high velocities.
	Bob


From cwthomas@pop.erols.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 16:10:24 -0700
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Hi;

 Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set 
 and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please 
explain to me how they work?

 The centerfinder (dual use point on one end flat on the other.) is a 
steel cylinder with a point on one end and a small drum on the other
 connected thru the center with a spring.  The thing is polished so that
 the ends fit smoothly.  

 Also I bought a wiggler set Which is composed of a holder ( kind of like
 a drill chuck but designed with a socket to accept the ball on the end 
of the wiggler? ( it came with one holder and 4 different things that
 have balls to fit into the socket thing which I assume fits into the 
 mill or drill press chuck.


 Thanks;


 C. W. Thomas


From Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gordon French <Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Central Machinery Mini-Lathe
Date: 6 Jun 1996 20:48:25 GMT
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I use this little lathe for steam fitings, for which it seems ideally 
suited.  Another friend has one and can't get the tailstock to line up 
with the headstock.  Yet another friend has one and he likes his too.  
The biggest single disadvantage that I see is that when doing interruped 
cuts, the electronic control begins to hunt.  While non-destructive, it 
it very disconcerting.



From mschech@som.syr.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mschech@som.syr.edu (Mike Schechter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why are welding machines so expensive?
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 17:11:33 -0400
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In article <4ovink$h83@epx.cis.umn.edu>, phil@ (Phil Roban) wrote:
> Why do welding machines (TIG, MIG) cost so much durn money?
> Coming to welding from electronics, even the largest of
> these machines seem to be power supplies with certain characteristics,
> e.g. constant current or voltage, arc starter.
> Perhaps the time has come for the NetWelder
> Cheers.
> Phil Roban
Well, Stick welders which are basically as you describe ARE cheap.
my little wonderfulness gave me a lincoln 225 amp one for xmas.
It was only $213
Not a whole lot. Go and price large multi-tap transformers.
MIG & TIG are more complex.... I think (in TIG anyway) the
arc restrikes at 100's of Hz per second
Huge amounts of dv/dt at large amperages.
I don't know how they build 'em.


From jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "j.battista" <jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Riveting Info Wanted
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 16:18:14 -0400
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try a book on airframe maintenance for riveting info.

joe


From jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "j.battista" <jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Riveting Info Wanted
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 16:18:26 -0400
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try a book on airframe maintenance for riveting info.

joe


From jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "j.battista" <jgb2@jgbhp.ho.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Riveting Info Wanted
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 16:59:33 -0400
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try a book on airframe maintenance for riveting info.

joe


From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 6 Jun 1996 21:29:22 GMT
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Most of what we manufacture is from 303 stainless steel, and polished by 
hand.

Has anyone put together an electropolishing setup, what is involved in 
doing this process.

Lionel Titchener



From mschech@som.syr.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mschech@som.syr.edu (Mike Schechter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 17:18:04 -0400
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In article <4p069h$k3j@tofu.alt.net>, cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias) wrote:

> I want to cast a large number, about 170, of small aluminum parts.  Is
> there any possibility of re-using a plaster mold for this?  The parts
> are scale tank track links, about 3"x1"x1/4", and should have good
> parting angles.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions re: how to do this
Use 2/3 plaster, 1/3 pure silica sand.
Used for bronze casting, and can be pre-heated to 1300F
before breakdown of the material. so it should last
for quite a few aluminum castings.
Also, don't forget to do multiple parts/cast if possible.
Also (ain't i great)- consider making a master mold, that you
can pour wax or lead into, then take apart to get wax/lead parts out of,
use several of these to build up a tree of parts, then
make a master of THIS, with 10-20 parts on it.
Then use this new master to make a wax or lead  with 20 of 'em onit.
then pour plaster waste molds around this 20-masters.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: [Q] which resistance wire for electric furnace ?
Date: 7 Jun 1996 16:56:58 GMT
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John M. VerBurg (jverburg@ucs.indiana.edu) wrote:

:    Now that I think about it, What about Titanium wire. Aldrich also sells
: it relatively cheap. I think the m.p. is about 1800C. I've never heard of
: anyone using it though. Does any know why this might be?   

Probably because Ti will oxidize very quickly.  We build integrated circuits
at work here, and some of them use a Ti film for (mumble, mumble) reasons.
When we run the wafers through the aluminum alloy/anneal process, we have to
make sure that the circa 500C tube is not contaminated by O2.  When it is,
I've seen the thin Ti film oxidize away completely.

Pete Brooks



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Message-ID: <1996Jun6.090953.23563@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 6 Jun 96 09:09:53 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4p4ubs$oq6@sol.caps.maine.edu>, you@somehost.somedomain (Your Name Here) writes:
|>Clausing Service Center was recommended to another inquirer about
|> a 109. series Sears lathe. Clausing's phone is (219) 533-0371, but 
|>the address is Goshen, Indiana.  They told me that the 109. 
|>lathes were all made by AA Mfg. and AA is out of business, so
|> no spare parts are available.

>From  the FAQ:

   -  Jim Anderson
      1642 Hillridge
      Ann Arbor MI 48103

      There were a few Craftsman lathes that were apparently *not* made by
      Clausing or their predecessors, called AA Products.  Jim has a
      catalog of sorts; send an 8 1/2 x 11 self-addressed-stamped-envelope
      with 2 stamps.   Include the model number in the request and he will
      send a copy of the manual, a list of customers, and a list of parts
      sources.


From  Tue Jun 18 10:29:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLOMIW <>
Subject: Drafting Board in W. NY
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My folks have a drafting board they would like to get rid of. The table must
be 6'x4' and it has a machine and stool with it. It's like new. If your
interested - email me at walt.slominski@daytonoh.ncr.com

it is located in Dunkirk, N.Y.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardinge model N questions
Date: 6 Jun 1996 22:31:08 GMT
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Doug Ripka (dlr13@psu.edu) wrote:
: drawbar.  Some questions:
[one answer...]

: 5) There is a small (~7/16") hole at the left front edge of the
: tailstock.  It opens upwards.  What is it for?
Back in the days of dead centers, that held the red lead to lube the 
tail center.

Pete Brooks


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 17:22:38 -0700
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cw thomas wrote:
> 
> Hi;
> 
>  Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set
>  and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please
> explain to me how they work?.......
>  ..Also I bought a wiggler set Which is composed of a holder ( kind of like
>  a drill chuck but designed with a socket to accept the ball on the end
> of the wiggler? ( it came with one holder and 4 different things that
>  have balls to fit into the socket thing which I assume fits into the
>  mill or drill press chuck.
> 
>  Thanks;
> 
>  C. W. Thomas

I know the feeling....  Then I took a semester at a community college (night) which 
really helped.  But the best was just a couple of weeks ago when I spent the afternoon 
playing with both the wiggler and the centerfinder.  I'm still not sure of the conical 
end of the c/f.

In class the instructor was telling us how the c/f would jump about 1/32" when it was 
at the edge (less the radius of the c/f.  Problem I was looking the wrong direction- 
you must look perpendicular to the work edge...  Finally it dawned on me...

The wiggler uses either the ball end or the small disk to find the edge.  Get it 
running nearly true and approach the work.  I didn't have to guess.

The little point attachment must be running true.  DON'T use a thumbnail!!!  I usually 
use a 6" rule.  Look down your layout marks and/or centerpunch mark.  Not too hard to 
get located.

Playing with those gadgets made for a real satisfying experience.  Found that I could 
get pretty close repeatability

Also cigarette papers...  They are .001 thick.  Held against the work while approaching 
with a milling cutter, you will get the indication of the edge as the paper is snatched 
out of your finger.  One of the Village Press authors suggests a wax crayon mark on the 
work, approach the mark carefully, when the cutter touches the wax you're there.

Have fun - I am...

Paul in AJ AZ


From xlch58@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Small oven for painting metal objects?
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Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmiths.com) wrote:
: : The moving finger of jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
: : having written:

: : >The primer may now be outlawed due to the Chromium, but there should be
: : >a replacement. 
: <snip>
: : BTW - I painted my monitor case with ZnCr "chrome yellow" paint. I
: : hate that bland office beige colour.

: Funny thing - I was familiar with that bright yellow chromate, I've seen
: lots of it on aircraft parts for years.  But the stuff supplied to me as
: Chromate Wash primer was rust red/brown. Maybe it was already reformulated
: to do without chromium, and the only chromium left is in the name.  This
: was about 1987 or so, I guess.

  God, that brings back memories.  I remember spending hours painting the 
insides of all my model airplanes with "zinc chromate green" 



From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: E-Z off mill grease?
Date: 3 Jun 96 19:37:13 GMT
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You said "easy" and didn't say anything about "un-messy", so
the answer is kerosene or mineral spirits and rags.

Greg
gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From gray@ml.csiro.au Tue Jun 18 10:29:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Randall Gray <gray@ml.csiro.au>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
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	<blake-0606960034500001@206.84.2.63>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 22:34:23 GMT


	<Discussions of what to do with old CO2 O2 bottles snipped>

How safe is it to cut O2 bottles?  What precautions should be taken?

-- Randall



From zippy@cs.brandeis.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: zippy@cs.brandeis.edu (Patrick Tufts)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: 7 Jun 1996 00:03:56 GMT
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Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov> writes:
[...]
>I was in Sears last night to pick up something for my in-laws and
>decided to drop by the tools and looked at the air compressors.
>They had a "6 hp" compressor whose motor name plate rating was
>240 v - 14 amp.  By my rule of thumb (120v/10 amp, 240/5 amp = 1 hp)
>this would be about a 3 hp motor, by the above formula this would
>be about a 4.5 hp motor.  In any case, certainly not a 6 hp unit.
[...]

Sears does this with their vacuums, too.  A salesperson tried to sell
me a 4hp (120V, 15amp plug) vacuum.  

Incidentally, isn't it 120v * 6.2 amp ~= 746 watts = 1hp? 

--Pat "darn, where'd I put that 25 amp outlet?"





From jwcercis@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: DC Motors
Date: 6 Jun 1996 20:58:08 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 23
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DC Shunt Wound Motors
Use with inexpensive (relatively) controller for 50:1  or greater speed
range.
Good  to excellent condition.


GE  1.5 Horsepower Open Dripproof construction
1750 RPM      180 Volt Armature
Nema 182 Frame; Footed Motor with 4.5    C-Face 
Similar to Grainger Stock Number 4M717
Shipping Weight About 110 Lbs
Asking $195 plus Shipping


GE  3 Horsepower Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled construction
1750 RPM      180 Volt Armature
Nema 1412 Frame; Footed Motor with 4.5    C-Face 
Similar to Grainger Stock Number 6Z553
Shipping Weight About 110 Lbs
Asking $195 plus Shipping


Please respond to:  jwcercis@aol.com


From wirdweird1@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wirdweird1@aol.com (Wirdweird1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cracks in 309 SS welds
Date: 6 Jun 1996 21:41:50 -0400
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We are experiencing cracking of welds in .060" 309 SS after roll
planishing the welds.  We are using 309 filler rod with argon purge and
backfill on an automatic seam welder. The parts are aerospace and the
cracks, very small, are unacceptable.  Can anybody help. 


From browen@aoc.nrao.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: browen@aoc.nrao.edu (Bruce Rowen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this material from soldering iron.
Date: 6 Jun 1996 15:35:50 GMT
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
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In article <4p6qeg$dlc@news1.io.org>, speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany) writes:
>Kurt Hesse (cn2983@coastalnet.com) wrote:
>[..]
>: semiconductor packages.  You could also try Electrical Insulation
>: Suppliers (EIS) Fabrico division.  I don't know if they handle mica or
>
>Or just rip apart a toaster.. there are usually a few good sized  sheets 
>of mica in there with nichrome ribbon wrapped around them. I'll bet it 
>would cost less than the minimum order from most industrial sources. 

I missed the topic of this thread, but it appears someone is looking
for sheet mica?

I've obtained free samples from a supplier (5) 8-1/2 x 11 sheets of
various thicknesses.

Just think of an application and ask for evaluation samples.




>
>--
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
>speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
>Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Rowen 				National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Scientific Programmer				Array Operations Center
browen@aoc.nrao.edu			  P.O. Box O  Socorro, NM   87801
(505)835-7329					     (505)835-7000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Message-ID: <1996Jun7.012452.23967@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4p4ubs$oq6@sol.caps.maine.edu>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 01:24:52 GMT
Lines: 22

In article <4p4ubs$oq6@sol.caps.maine.edu>,
Your Name Here <soule@maine.maine.edu> wrote:
>Clausing Service Center was recommended to another inquirer about
> a 109. series Sears lathe. Clausing's phone is (219) 533-0371, but 
>the address is Goshen, Indiana.  They told me that the 109. 
>lathes were all made by AA Mfg. and AA is out of business, so
> no spare parts are available.

>From  the FAQ:

Jim Anderson
1642 Hillridge
Ann Arbor, MI  48103

Send an 8 1/2 x 11 self addressed, stamped envelope and 2 stamps and
he'll send you a copy of the manual, a list of customers and a list of
parts sources.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From rabarker@shore.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rabarker@shore.net (robert a barker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: 7 Jun 1996 03:04:37 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <4p8685$bj8@shore.shore.net>
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In article <31B76560.4537@pop.erols.com>, cwthomas@pop.erols.com says...
>
>Hi;
>
> Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set 
> and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please 
>explain to me how they work?
>
> The centerfinder (dual use point on one end flat on the other.) is a 
>steel cylinder with a point on one end and a small drum on the other
> connected thru the center with a spring.  The thing is polished so that
> the ends fit smoothly.  
>
> Also I bought a wiggler set Which is composed of a holder ( kind of 
like
> a drill chuck but designed with a socket to accept the ball on the end 
>of the wiggler? ( it came with one holder and 4 different things that
> have balls to fit into the socket thing which I assume fits into the 
> mill or drill press chuck.
>
>
> Thanks;
>
>
> C. W. Thomas

 The edge finder is put into the spindle collett or chuck with the small
dia shaft hanging down.Usually the small dia is .200 " in dia.When the 
spindle is running,the smaller dia can be pushed or tapped and it will
run eccentrically.If you then dial the machine so the workpiece touches 
the smaller dia,it will cause it to run true.Dialing *very slowly* and 
watching closely,you will suddenly see the end jump to one side.at that 
instant,the center of your spindle is exactly one half of the dia (.100")
away from the work.

  The wiggler works on th same principle.

  Hope this helps.

  Bob Barker



From kvacek@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kvacek@aol.com (KVacek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: 7 Jun 1996 05:43:46 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <4p06gd$944@tribune.concentric.net>, danf@cris.com writes:

>>I am going to buy an air compressor and have been looking at a couple
>>of different types. 
>
>>The first is a Cambell Hausfeld 5hp with a belt driving the motor. The
>>second is a Craftsman 6hp with a direct drive motor.
>
>>I am not sure which motor is better, or the atvantages or
dissatvantages.
>
>>I am leaning towards the Craftsman, but had heard bad things about the
>>direct drive motors, but that may have been a small 1hp.
>
>>If anyone has any experience or knowledge to share, I am willing to
>>listen.


If you want a compressor to last beyond a year or two, try a real
industrial quality compressor.  The Taiwanese tool companies are no better
than Sears and Campbell-Hausfeld (who I had assumed made Sears
compressors).  W.W>Grainger has a wide range of models, and their
Speedaire line includes some moderately-priced units with die-cast
compressors that stand up well.  I have several, the oldest one since 1970
and the second-oldest since 1976; both are still going strong in weekly
(not daily) use with virtually no maintenance.

Good Luck
-Karl


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 7 Jun 1996 11:03:06 GMT
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:->   I never thought about this annoying little problem.  Any ideas out there?
:->How about trying something like a chip-breaker notch? Or maybe we need some
:->side rake?  Obviously, the ideal tool wouldn't have these problems.  Must be
:->a ***real*** soft-plastic machinist out there with the definitive answer.

I saw plans for a tool for turning plastics in some magazine years
ago. It was a short piece of drill rod, drilled thru the center to
leave a ~1/16" wall tube. The top end was then countersunk with a 60d
c/sink to make the cutting edge, hardened and placed in a holder at
~15d back rake. The chip, or string, was supposed to go thru the hole,
and end up in the chip pan. I never did try this, maybe someday...


pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pstrauss@serv01.net-link.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Megan K Strauss <pstrauss@serv01.net-link.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Clearing the old messages
Date: 7 Jun 1996 03:42:59 GMT
Organization: NetLink Systems, LLC.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: p3-25.net-link.net

Who clears out all the OLD messages?

I have to scroll thorugh a zillion messages to get to the new 
and active ones.
 Can I push a switch and wipe off the Ancient Ones?

The one posting that I had on lasted only two days!!!!





From lughaid@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@aol.com (Lughaid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Date: 7 Jun 1996 07:43:37 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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I was able to find another spindle, head, cross slide, etc, from:
(from the FAQ)
-  J. C. Boegeman
      1464 S. Warner Dr.
      Apache Junction, AZ  85220
      (602) 982-8436

      Discontinued parts for Atlas, Craftsman, Clausing lathes.
      Quadrants, reverse gear boxes, lead screws, half-nuts,
      spindles, steady rests, and so on.  No catalog, so call.
When I was out there earlier this year, he had lots of parts available. Mr
Boegeman was very helpful. 

Michael Horgan  Lughaid@aol.com   ah491@lafn.org


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 19:25:50 -0700
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References: <31AFCA81.D7F@mis.nb.ca> <4ooc4v$sj2@mars.hyperk.com> <jnaylor-0106961001550001@192.0.2.1> <31B1AC33.1F31@worldnet.att.net> <jnaylor-0206961515220001@192.0.2.1> <1996Jun4.153756.11779@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov> <4p7rlc$2ct@new-news.cc.brandeis.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29405 rec.autos.tech:172873 rec.autos.4x4:46564

Patrick Tufts wrote:
> 
> Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov> writes:
> [...]
> >I was in Sears last night to pick up something for my in-laws and
> >decided to drop by the tools and looked at the air compressors.
> >They had a "6 hp" compressor whose motor name plate rating was
> >240 v - 14 amp.  By my rule of thumb (120v/10 amp, 240/5 amp = 1 hp)
> >this would be about a 3 hp motor, by the above formula this would
> >be about a 4.5 hp motor.  In any case, certainly not a 6 hp unit.
> [...]
> 
> Sears does this with their vacuums, too.  A salesperson tried to sell
> me a 4hp (120V, 15amp plug) vacuum.
> 
> Incidentally, isn't it 120v * 6.2 amp ~= 746 watts = 1hp?
> 
> --Pat "darn, where'd I put that 25 amp outlet?"

for an ac motor
120v X 6.2a = 746 volt amperes input.
assuming a power factor of .8, that would be 595 watts input.
assuming an efficiency of .8 there would be 476 watts output.
that would be about .64 hp.

so much for a 4 hp vacuum.

They would like to rewrite the book.  Sad...

Paul in AJ AZ


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clearing the old messages
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 08:52:35 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <ginger.474.00170906@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <4p88g3$idc@leol.net-link.net>
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X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <4p88g3$idc@leol.net-link.net> Megan K Strauss <pstrauss@serv01.net-link.net> writes:
>From: Megan K Strauss <pstrauss@serv01.net-link.net>
>Subject: Clearing the old messages
>Date: 7 Jun 1996 03:42:59 GMT

>Who clears out all the OLD messages?

>I have to scroll thorugh a zillion messages to get to the new 
>and active ones.
> Can I push a switch and wipe off the Ancient Ones?

>The one posting that I had on lasted only two days!!!!

Has this been added to the FAQ yet? we seem to get a question about how news 
works every couple weeks, and there have been a few very good and detailed 
replies.

The short answer, is you have control over this by the news reader program you 
use. And remember, it NEWS- like old newspapers, once you have read it you 
throw it away, so your positng didnt dissapear in 2 days, it dropped off YOUR 
list when you read it.

It dropped off every newsserver in the world whenever that server 
administrator decided it should.




Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From writt@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FYI-DRO SALE
Date: 7 Jun 1996 09:01:50 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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J&L Industrial Supply ( a division of Kennametal) has a Mitutoyo 13"  X 
30" DRO on sale for $799. They also include the Mitutoyo DRO quill kit.
This is the digital caliper type. A friend of mine has had one of the
quill kits for several months and loves it. The price is good  'til 6/30.
Phone 800-525-6817. They also take most major cards.

I have no affiliation with this company. I am only a customer.

Bill Rittner


From davidlindq@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com (Davidlindq)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 7 Jun 1996 07:50:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In the past there has been some interest here in the Knight Foundry
located in Sutter Creek, California. It is probably the last water powered
machine shop and foundry in the United States. Much of the following I
found out during the annual meeting of the Society for Industrial
Archeology, May 30-June 2, 1996. Most came from Carl Borgh, owner of
Knight Foundry and from Ed Arata of Friends of Knight Foundry.

Knight Foundry is currently in operation. It is _not_ open to visitors or
tours or doing workshops. They are  working on a job casting parts for 4
railroad turntables for 4 customers including the Orange Empire Railway
Museum. They had started this work by the end of April  (I spoke to Russ
Johnson at the Foundry at that time. Russ had also been with Historic
Knight & Co., Ltd and is now handling this job for Carl Borgh). Carl told
us they have about another 6 weeks to go. They may also do some machining
of the parts, this is as yet undecided. He does not know what will happen
after this job is completed.

Ed Arata told us their basic problem was lack of money. Historic Knight &
Co., Ltd., the entity which had leased the foundry from Carl Borgh and was
operating it was doing O.K. until about last summer when their business
fell off drastically. By the end of 1995 they could no longer sustain
their losses and had no prospects of funding to carry them through to
possible better times and so had to cease their operating arrangement with
Carl and dissolve Historic Knight & Co. Friends of Knight Foundry, which
was seeking money to acquire the site _and_ stabilize _and_ improve it has
not been able to come anywhere close to raising the estimated $750,000 to
$1,000,000 needed to do all this. Ed said that barring a miracle, Friends
of Knight Foundry will probably also be dissolved. He further said they
got "a lot of ink", Penton Publication's Foundry Magazine did a cover
story on them and we got a copy of the article in the current issue of
Historic Preservation. While he encountered a lot of interest over the
last few years of trying to raise funds from both the public and private
sector, the money itself was not forth coming in sufficient amounts. He
said the site will probably make the National Trust for Historic
Preservation's "endangered list". This may or may not cause a miracle to
happen. He echoed Carl Borgh's uncertainty about what will happen once the
current job is done. At the end of this session, Walter Gray, head of the
California State Railroad Museum said he's always saying to his staff "The
only thing that stands between us and our dreams is millions of dollars."

I wish I had better news.

David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From cpearls@athena.mit.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpearls@athena.mit.edu (Craig P. Earls)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: 7 Jun 1996 13:24:50 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
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NNTP-Posting-Host: sloop.mit.edu


The web page at www.teleport.com/~shelton/cmm/proj4of5.html pictures a
model of a SEAL IL-4 engine with castings produced by "Woking
Precision Models" (could be "Working Precision Models"?).  The owner
of the web page has no information about the company that produced the
castings, other than that they are in England.  This engine looks like
an interesting project and appears sized well for the Sherline
Equipment I have.  Can anyone out there point to this company or the
current owners of drawings/castings?

Thanks 
Craig Earls


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cracks in 309 SS welds
Date: 7 Jun 1996 10:11:10 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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> wirdweird1@aol.com (Wirdweird1) posted:


>We are experiencing cracking of welds in .060" 309 SS after >roll
>planishing the welds.  We are using 309 filler rod with argon >purge and
>backfill on an automatic seam welder. The parts are >aerospace and the
>cracks, very small, are unacceptable.  Can anybody help. 


Have you tried running an argon/ helium mix?
It's all I use anymore for all stainless TIG work, since it burns hotter
and cleaner. The cracking is usually caused by carbide formation in the
welds. They are too hard to deform when you roll planish the welds.
Argon/helium might help, but you might try sending samples of your base
metal and filler to a metallurgist for testing to make sure you got a good
batch of metal. Mills do make mistakes. Even the tiniest impurity in the
filler metal will make clean welds impossible. Also make sure you didn't
get a contaminated batch of Argon. I had a bad incident last year with a
series of argon tanks that were all contaminated. I found out a couple of
months later that 45 tanks were returned in a matter of weeks because of
bad weld performance.

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From rhock@mcn.org Tue Jun 18 10:29:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rhock@mcn.org (Ron Hock)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: W-1 or O-1 ... Wish I knew
Date: 7 Jun 1996 15:52:48 GMT
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In article <4p1s6r$3c7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, edk4@aol.com says...
>
>I was hoping there might be a common denominator for tool steel 
>quenching. Like: "if in doubt, quench it in oil", or something....

Hope is a wonderful thing ;).

>
>Surely, other than having a known sample to compare it to, either water
>or oil quenching ought to work "universally", except maybe for A-1.

There are dozens of tool steels each with unique hardening specifications. 
Do not assume any degree of universality.

>
>So, if I quenched A-1 in oil, what would happen? If I quenched W-1 in
>oil, what would happen? I'm assuming here that, if in doubt 'slower is
>better '. Does that make sense?  

Not if you want it to work.

>Air cooling must be slower than 
>either liquid, but is oil a slower coolant than water?
>

If there were a common denominator we wouldn't need so many different types 
of tool steel. Much of the differentiation in alloys is there to make the 
steel perform differently in different heat treating methods and to thereby 
eliminate various problems such as warpage and distortion. The faster the 
quench rate the more stressful to the steel. (I've had pieces shatter when 
water-quenching.)

With water hardening steel, it is common for it to surface harden only, 
leaving a soft, ductile core (can be desirable with, say, chisels) because 
the quench rate necessary for complete hardening is difficult to achieve 
and the heat can't escape the center of the piece quickly enough. So certain 
alloying elements are added that slow the hardening rate (in the case of 
O-1, it is primarily manganese that is added for this purpose) such that oil 
(slower at removing heat) could be used and more thorough hardening achieved 
with less distortion. By adding even more stuff(a variety of exotic 
elements are used), air can be used as the quenchant with still less 
distortion, etc. If you quenched A-2 (I've never heard of A-1) in oil, it 
would harden quite well but you  would risk warpage and possible breakage by 
subjecting it to such stress. W-1 quenched in oil might not harden 
completely.

So if you don't know the alloy, you are SOL for confident hardening. You 
might win you might not. If you have a lot of it (leaf springs or 
lumber-mill saw blades or such) you can just start trying it out. Or you can 
spark it and compare to known metals to try and determine the alloy.

One of the best sources for tool steel info and heat-treat ins and outs is 
David Boye's book _Step by Step Knifemaking_ (Rodale). 
-- 
Ron Hock (rhock@mcn.org)
Hock Handmade Knives
http://www.mcn.org/a/rhock/hockhome.htm



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Soft Material Machining (Was Teflon machining)
Date: 7 Jun 1996 09:46:09 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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>    Something like that might be going on with soft plastics.  Surely
>this is a phenomenon that affects all low-melting temperature
>stock.  Instead of lapped bits, it might be just a question of finding
>the right lubricant. Fiberglass mold release?  Sour WD-40? 

Melting is a big problem with poly(methyl methacrylate) but not with 
Teflon.  Even though swarf can wrap around and mess up your cut, it 
doesn't tend to weld back to the parent metal.  I've never found any 
libricant necessary or helpful.  My Teflon turning has been limited to 
2-3" dia. stuff at aluminum speeds with HSS tools.

rhg


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 7 Jun 1996 10:07:29 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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>: The engine is a 750 V twin, I was thinking of removing 1 carburetor
>: and installing some kinda air filter in its place, and taking the
>: shimms out of the exhaust cam so it wont open.And installing a check
>: valve in place of the spark plug for the output. Then just running the
>: engine off the remaining cylinder.
>

I'd remove the original head and make a substitute.  You want no dead space 
i.e. the combustion chamber and any extra volume leading up to your 
valves.  I'd look for a slab of aluminum and probably mill some cooling 
fins into it in the process.  I'd also try to find some replacement 
catridge type ball valves for a commercial compressor to adapt into my 
ersatz head.  If that fails, you could machine your own or try to adapt 
check valves.  Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at 
least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a 
multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How 
about one bank of a V8?

rhg 



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 7 Jun 1996 10:19:20 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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>Has anyone put together an electropolishing setup, what is involved in 
>doing this process.
>
>Lionel Titchener
>

I've done a little electropolishing, mostly of chrome-cobalt alloys but 
some SS.  I think for different alloys the pro's use different modifiers 
in the electrolyte.  I used pure, concentrated phosphoric acid.  I don't 
think there's a significant minimum current density, the rate of action 
just goes down with the density, within reason.  I used a battery charger 
as a DC current source and SS for the cathode.  You make the work the 
anode as I'm sure you already know.  

You didn't mention the size of piece you'd want to polish or the number.  
If I were you, I'd get some phosphoric acid,  (Insert usual precautionary 
statements regarding acid, it's pretty tame stuff), grab an available DC 
power supply and experiment.  If you're going to do it as a production 
process you might eventually want to check out the equipment from a 
plating supply outfit.

rhg

BTW, the acid rapidly turns from water clear to green.  The green doesn't 
reduce the effectiveness.  The stuff remains effective for a long time.  
Also, phosphoric acid has low vapor pressure so it doesn't dry out 
rapidly or corrode everything in the shop.


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Date: 7 Jun 1996 16:32:22 GMT
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Bill,

AA never heard of metric when they made that one.

The spindle is very prone to bending which is 
probably why yours went missing.

I seem to remember (I rebuilt my father's AA
last year) that the spindle is indeed 1/2" but
that there is a shoulder on the spindle nose
that is much larger than that.  So you have
to start with a piece of steel larger than
1/2"... perhaps as large as 1".

If you screw-cut the threads on the spindle nose
and you have the shoulder, the chuck should not
wobble.  But you do need both the shoulder and the
thread to be true to the spindle's longitudinal
axis.

Best regards,




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: unknown lathe identification
Date: 7 Jun 1996 16:44:38 GMT
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KBC Tools and Machinery

1-800-521-1740

Best regards,


Mike Rehmus



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: 7 Jun 1996 17:09:14 GMT
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Nick Irias (cabago@netcom.com) wrote:
: I want to cast a large number, about 170, of small aluminum parts.  Is
: there any possibility of re-using a plaster mold for this?  The parts

While my foundry knowledge is from a couple of books and the net (haven't 
built my melter yet), it sounds as if you'd like to make a bunch of cores.

I'd think about making a single core (or possibly two core halves) and casting
up a bunch in whatever is cheap and easy to work with.  I'd guess plaster
would be OK if you could protect it, perhaps with an epoxy to toughen the
surface.

Mount about 10 sets of the cores on a match plate any you would only have
17 melts, assuming you can melt that much metal in one shot.  Adjust the
numbers to suit your needs.

I'd guess there's no real reason you couldn't make core sets from aluminum,
though you'd have two increments of shrinkage to deal with.

Any *real* casters care to chime in?  I'd like to learn, myself.

Pete Brooks




From cabago@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: South Bend Model 36-C
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 17:30:09 GMT
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My friend has a South Bend Model 36-C lathe, which was part of his
grandfather's all belt driven shop.  It has a 13" swing over the bed,
which is 6' long.

Does anyone have any idea when this lathe may have been manufactured
and what it is worth today?  The lathe is in very good condition.

thanks for any info you might have on this unit



From James.Foster@cdc.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "Best" way to fix broken cast iron
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 12:17:49 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
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I don't have many references in this area (my Metals Handbook is missing
the Welding/Forging volumn B^( anyone have an older copy for sale
cheap?), so I wanted to try to get a discussion
going about cast iron repair. Kind of a "if this were you, how'd you do
it?"  These are based
on a couple of real life jobs that I want to try.

Two scenarios: A larger casting, part of it cracked off cleanly, another
part that
is missing a small piece (it's a big machinists vise). Neither are high
stress areas.

Second, a smaller, more delicate casting (a woodworking hand plane
body). One broken off
and rather poorly rebrazed. Another with a partial crack that I'd like
to stabilize. Also
consider a clean break with no brazing.

What are the limitation for tools/techniques? Well, first assume you
have anything you need
to do the "ideal" job and make suggestions for that. Second, to bring it
down to a more
home shop level, assume you have oxy/acetylene, AC Arc, AC TIG, oh, all
right assume DC on
the TIG though I don't have the DC converter done yet! B^)


I'll start the ball rolling with what I've come up with: 
   
     1. Back up the missing area with carbon blocks. Preheat to dull
red. Fill in
        with cast iron rod with AC welder. Deep vee grind the cracked
area. Preheat to
        dull red. Weld with oxy/acetylene and cast iron filler rod.

     2. Cut/grind off brazed on section to be able to better align the
parts. Preheat and
        rebraze. How much preheat do you need here? Drill the end of the
partial crack to
        help stabilize it. Vee grind crack, preheat, and oxy/acetylene
weld. If it were a 
        clean break then I'd basically do the same. 

Since I've got pretty good references on how to do the oxy/acetylene
work I lean toward that.
But TIG might be a better alternative though I have no references.

One thing I wanted opinions on was the degree of preheat. Dull red using
an improvised oven from
firebrick and asbestos, fired with charcoal, followed by slow cooldown
in lime or ashes is what
I've read. Can I get away with less temp, or is this about the minimum
I'll need?

TIA!


From mail11073@pop.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mail11073@pop.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Prazzi Lathes
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 17:30:15 GMT
Organization: JD
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Does anyone have experience with Prazzi lathes ?  I am new to the
hobby and would like something small to aid me in the restoration of a
60's Chevy auto.  I want to machine small items such as engine
brackets etc.  The lathe I am considering is (I think) a Prazzi model
300.  It is a 5" x 12" unit which is a little small but should
suffice.  Are replacement parts available easily ?  The unit is "like
new"  in the crate with manuals and all accessories including a
horizontal milling attachment.  The seller is asking $500.00     Any
ideas, suggestions, or comments would be really appreciated.  Thanks



From sml@plato.ds.boeing.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sml@plato.ds.boeing.com (Stuart Lewis)
Subject: [Q]: Gas powered air compressor
Message-ID: <Dsn0E6.G2p@plato.ds.boeing.com>
Organization: Boeing Defense & Space Group
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 15:58:53 GMT
Lines: 19

A tap of the collective wisdom...

I have the opportunity to purchase a used, 12 horse Kohler powered,
2 stage, Campbell-Hausfeld compressor.  The price is right but I
have a couple questions that, perhaps, can get answered here.

The only thing that keeps me from buying it immediately is that it
is only a 30 gallon tank.  While the rated cfm is really high, what
I want to know is can I run a pressure sand blaster, da sander, etc,
etc, without encountering a high cycle rate (even though it's gas
powered, I think it has a 75% duty cycle do to cylinder heating).
Otherwise, the solution would be to purchase a 60 or 80 gallon tank
>from  say Grainger, and re-fit the powerhead and compressor to that
- then it's not so good a buy.

Thanks in advance,

Stuart Lewis
sml@plato.ds.boeing.com


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: And Home ElectroPLATING?
Date: 7 Jun 1996 18:12:13 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4p9rdt$aut@wolfe.wimsey.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vanbc.wimsey.com
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I picked up a used copy of a Lindsay reprint on metal polishing and 
plating...  Original 1904 or so... Cyanide, HF, HCl, H2SO4, mixing,
gassing, boiling, etc..  enough to give me the creeps.  all I wanna
do is the odd clock dial or other small part, in silver and / or 
Brass etc.  

[I asked a week or so back, but here goes again...] is there an
improved [safer!] set of processes besides Silver Nitrate that one
can use these days?  I won't touch the procedures in the book...

thanks / mark



From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: DC Motors
Date: 7 Jun 1996 18:37:53 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Lines: 34
Distribution: world
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It would be good of you to indicate from what location you want someone
to pay shipping charges for 110lbs!

Bill



In article <4p7ur0$fhg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) writes:
|> DC Shunt Wound Motors
|> Use with inexpensive (relatively) controller for 50:1  or greater speed
|> range.
|> Good  to excellent condition.
|> 
|> 
|> GE  1.5 Horsepower Open Dripproof construction
|> 1750 RPM      180 Volt Armature
|> Nema 182 Frame; Footed Motor with 4.5    C-Face 
|> Similar to Grainger Stock Number 4M717
|> Shipping Weight About 110 Lbs
|> Asking $195 plus Shipping
|> 
|> 
|> GE  3 Horsepower Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled construction
|> 1750 RPM      180 Volt Armature
|> Nema 1412 Frame; Footed Motor with 4.5    C-Face 
|> Similar to Grainger Stock Number 6Z553
|> Shipping Weight About 110 Lbs
|> Asking $195 plus Shipping
|> 
|> 
|> Please respond to:  jwcercis@aol.com


From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Riveting Info Wanted
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:19:00 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960607141749.7711G-100000@reliant>
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Recommend AC 43-13 which is available for about $15 or $20 from the GPO and
other third party publishers.  Titled "Guide to Aircraft Maintenance, 
Alteration, and Repair."
John


On Thu, 6 Jun 1996, j.battista wrote:

> try a book on airframe maintenance for riveting info.
> 
> joe
> 
> 


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: 7 Jun 1996 19:48:39 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I believe DeVilbiss makes the Craftsman compressors.


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Canadian DRO at NAMES ?
Date: 7 Jun 1996 20:14:38 GMT
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I lost the name and address of the Canadian dealer that had a DRO system 
on display at the NAMES, can anyone provide the name and address and or 
phone number of this dealer?  Thanks,  Bob L.
-
  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com




From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Tue Jun 18 10:29:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Re: Air Compressor
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>As a matter of curiosity, I had a look at the name plate of the Baldor
>motor on my lathe ... It is rated at 7.8 amps at 115 volts, it has a
>claimed efficiency of 63% and a rated horsepower of 0.5.
snip
>Jens
I checked two motors I feel to be quality motors:
1. an older GE motor rated 1/2 hp, 8.4 amps, 115 v
2. a middle aged Leeson motor rated 1.5 hp, 17.4 amps, 115 v

As I recall, motors tend to draw as much (or as little) current as
required to maintain RPM.  So a 1/4 hp motor or a 1.5 hp motor which
is running against a light load will tend to draw the same current,
and these same motors driving a large load will attempt to draw the
same current also. (I dimmly recall that a large load results in a 
lower back emf which means that for a heavily loaded motor, the winding
resistance becomes the current limiting factor).

What this means of course is that a motor rated at 1/4 hp can draw
the necessary current to provide an output power of 3/4 hp or 1 hp
or more .... for a while. How long ? Well that depends on the wire
size used in the windings, the insulation qualities, air flow over
the windings, etc.  Eventually (or maybe vrey quickly) motors which
are used beyond their physical limitations will develop winding
shorts.

Buyer beware.

-Roger




From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steptoe Shaper
Date: 7 Jun 1996 20:48:52 GMT
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I found some info on the steptoe shaper, for that interested party, E-
Mail me.
-
  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com




From Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. Michael Thompson" <Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stockpiles (Was: What is this material from soldering iron.)
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 15:12:37 -0400
Organization: Nortel
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Tim Shoppa wrote:
 
> I think the US government has an *enormous* stockpile of it <mica>, or at
> least they did as of a few years ago.  All the result of a shortage
> of it in WW2, where it was an important insulator in high-quality
> RF capacitors and (as you note) tubes.  The stockpile was one of
> the targets of ridicule by some senator or congressperson who was
> trying to find waste in the government and military several years
> ago, I think.  (Any actually useful material will be greatly mocked
> by politicians if it's used in the construction of anything as
> "obsolete" as high-voltage tubes and radio equipment.)

You are (unfortunately) quite correct. Now they are after the Helium stockpile. 
They want to take the world's only commercial-scale source of this very useful 
material and just vent it to the atmosphere. Why? Because it makes a great 
sound bite to say: "We aren't going to fight any more wars with zeppelins."

JMT


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Tue Jun 18 10:29:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Best" way to fix broken cast iron
Date: 7 Jun 1996 21:04:07 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 20
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I had good luck fixing a Renault flywheel w/ a piece broken out & missing
using a oxy-acetylene torch and brazing rod... I heated the flywheel to 
black heat all over and then built up the missing area with brass.  After
slow cooling in air (surrounded by whatever firebrick was around) I 
machined the section smooth.  One of the bolts holding the clutch cover on 
was in the broken section; I drilled that anew (into the cast iron) and
used a long bolt in that hole....

Ran just fine, though it was probably rather out of balance....

- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Clearing the old messages
Message-ID: <1996Jun7.093421.23583@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 7 Jun 96 09:34:21 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4p88g3$idc@leol.net-link.net>, Megan K Strauss <pstrauss@serv01.net-link.net> writes:
|>Who clears out all the OLD messages?
|>
|>I have to scroll thorugh a zillion messages to get to the new 
|>and active ones.
|> Can I push a switch and wipe off the Ancient Ones?
|>
|>The one posting that I had on lasted only two days!!!!

This is something that each server system does on their own, according
to their own rules.  For example, on my system (we have our own
server at UW), we keep articles for 3-4 days then throw them away.
Exception: an article can request longer/shorter retention via the
Expires: header, though server systems are not required to obey the
request (we do; most don't).

In your case, your service provider (net-link) probably does this,
and you should contact them for their specific policies.

And if you have a half-way decent news reader it should keep track
of which articles you've already read, and not show them to you again.
(note that many web browsers can read news, but are *terrible* compared
to a "real" news reader package).

I'd suggest you send these questions to your service provider.  If
you don't get an answer, switch providers and tell them both why.

Jim


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Coachbolts : was Apologies . and an appropriate question
Date: 7 Jun 1996 21:58:37 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 17
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4pa8md$n4v@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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One thought on cutting oils:  I've bought plumber's cutting oil at the local
(huge) hardware store.  A 1-qt bottle of Nu-clear (cute name, eh?  Didn't
think so either) cost a few bucks, and it's lasted several threads.

In the US, one of the major plumbing tool manufacturers (Ridgid, or however
they spell their name) sells a cutting oil available in large quantities.

Back in the stone age, I worked at a hardware store that cut and threaded
pipe to order, and we used the junk by the gallon.  (Well, the threading
machine reservoir was good for a couple of gallons.  Consumed quantities
were quite low.)  That particular goop was heavily sulfured, with a distinct
stink.  Worked damned well, however.  We'd have a bunch of high school
kids cutting and threading, and we never destroyed any die heads while
I was there.  (Yeah, I was one of the kids.)  We broke a lot of things
at that store, but never any plumbing tools.  That goop was a great lubricant!

Pete Brooks


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 23:24:33 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <31b82818.308863438@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of Randall Gray <gray@ml.csiro.au> having written:

>How safe is it to cut O2 bottles?  What precautions should be taken?

Make sure they're empty !

If you unscrew the valve from the cylinder you can make absolutely
sure they're empty. Naturally you should check the valve is open (and
clear of gunge) before you try unscrewing it. A full welding cylinder
has enough pressure in it to create a sizable blast if you open the
valve with no regulator in place. There's a hazard of skin (or eye)
penetration from the gas jet, and the cylinder itself may start
moving. If you insist on checking that a delivered cylinder is full by
cracking the valve open, chain the cylinder into your stand first,
have the valve pointing upwards and do it outdoors.

As far as the sawing goes, use a powered saw. You'll not want to go
through one by hand...



From jkassis@leland.Stanford.EDU Tue Jun 18 10:29:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeremy Kassis <jkassis@leland.Stanford.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Auto welding . . .
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 16:18:42 -0700
Organization: Stanford University
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What's the minimum amperage you recommend for MIG welding work on an auto?


======================================================================
Jeremy Kassis                                      Stanford University
jkassis@leland.stanford.edu                        P.O. Box 2631
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jkassis            Stanford, CA  94309
======================================================================



From Your_Email_Address Tue Jun 18 10:29:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Your_Email_Address (Your_Login)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: bridgeport mmill for sale
Date: 7 Jun 1996 19:48:06 GMT
Organization: Sky Web Inc.
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Bridgeport mill with 1 horspower j-head for sale.Is under power and can 
be seen in central jersey.$2000 firm. Reply by e-mail to 
alan8@pluto.com.



From Your_Email_Address Tue Jun 18 10:29:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.skyweb.net!usenet
From: Your_Email_Address (Your_Login)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: lathe for sale
Date: 7 Jun 1996 19:51:15 GMT
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Monarch 10ee toolroom lathe for sale with some tooling.Asking $3600 or 
best offer.Can be seen in Lakewood NJ.For mor info reply by e-mail to 
alan8@pluto.com.



From Your_Email_Address Tue Jun 18 10:29:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Your_Email_Address (Your_Login)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: brown&sharpe turret drill for sale
Date: 7 Jun 1996 19:54:43 GMT
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browne&sharpe 6 spindle turret drill and tapping machine for sale. 
Priced at $3800 or best offer.Is under power and is in new jersey. For 
more info e-mail reply to alan8@pluto.com.



From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 7 Jun 1996 17:09:37 -0700
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In article <4p952t$se4@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
Davidlindq <davidlindq@aol.com> wrote:
>In the past there has been some interest here in the Knight Foundry
>located in Sutter Creek, California. It is probably the last water powered
>machine shop and foundry in the United States. Much of the following I
>found out during the annual meeting of the Society for Industrial
>Archeology, May 30-June 2, 1996. Most came from Carl Borgh, owner of
>Knight Foundry and from Ed Arata of Friends of Knight Foundry.
>
snip

>not been able to come anywhere close to raising the estimated $750,000 to
>$1,000,000 needed to do all this. Ed said that barring a miracle, Friends


I guess I don't understand why the Knight Foundry Property would cost 
$750,000.  IMHO it is worth about $300K max given the buildings, the land, 
the potential, and the environmental cleanup that would be required to 
use the property for much of anything else.  It is a wretched place, full 
of old unkempt machinery, dirt, roof leaks, dust, crud, and totally 
lovely for people like us, but hardly worth $750-1M to a practical person 
who has not won the lottery and able to be charitable to afficianados.

Maybe I am being cynical but whoever the property owner actually is may 
be trying to milk the *history* for whatever he can suck out 
of some afficianado or other sucker, with no thought to the historical 
significance.

Has anyone thought about getting a group together to start a trust 
partnership to buy the place?  Just as a historic place in which one 
could work and not have to produce to pay a mortgage?  Where you could 
give tours if you wanted to and if anyone was there to act as a guide?  
Are there 10 of us here on the net that can contribute, say $50,000 each, to 
make an offer?

David thanks for the update, but I still remain sad about Knight 
Foundry.  Please continue this thread and lets see what net-wisdom can 
come up with in ideas.

JerryK


From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (bikerbil)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 01:46:02 GMT
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On 7 Jun 1996 10:07:29 -0600, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
wrote:

>>: The engine is a 750 V twin, I was thinking of removing 1 carburetor
>>: and installing some kinda air filter in its place, and taking the
>>: shimms out of the exhaust cam so it wont open.And installing a check
>>: valve in place of the spark plug for the output. Then just running the
>>: engine off the remaining cylinder.
>>
>
>I'd remove the original head and make a substitute.  You want no dead space 
>i.e. the combustion chamber and any extra volume leading up to your 
>valves.  I'd look for a slab of aluminum and probably mill some cooling 
>fins into it in the process. 

I like this idea better than my origanal. This way if it dosent work
out I can still salvage the engine for some other project. (Grin)



 I'd also try to find some replacement 
>catridge type ball valves for a commercial compressor to adapt into my 
>ersatz head.  If that fails, you could machine your own or try to adapt 
>check valves.

What exactly are cartridge type ball valve, I guessing that  the check
valves I have are the same thing,  Small cylinder with a ball and
spring .... The ones I have are only 3/8 inch, from the sound of the
last responce that will be too small. How big should I try to makem 




 Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at 
>least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a 
>multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How 
>about one bank of a V8?

If its true that more is better than the V8 should be just about
right, but a 12 cycl Jaguar would be perfect. hehehe
>
>rhg 
>



From kmag@lex.infi.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Maggard <kmag@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Prazzi Lathes
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 22:20:37 -0400
Organization: Maggard Technologies
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JD wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have experience with Prazzi lathes ?  I am new to the
> hobby and would like something small to aid me in the restoration of a
> 60's Chevy auto.  I want to machine small items such as engine
> brackets etc.  The lathe I am considering is (I think) a Prazzi model
> 300.  It is a 5" x 12" unit which is a little small but should
> suffice.  Are replacement parts available easily ?  The unit is "like
> new"  in the crate with manuals and all accessories including a
> horizontal milling attachment.  The seller is asking $500.00     Any
> ideas, suggestions, or comments would be really appreciated.  Thanks

That price is a steal!!!!   But while that machine is very nice it will be too small to do most 
of the work that you want to do.  I would like to buy it if you don't( already own one but would 
buy another at that price), but you would also need a larger machine for car restoration work.


From brucer@interport.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Canadian DRO at NAMES ?
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 22:53:50 -0400
Organization: Interport Communications Corp.
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Robert Lorenz wrote:
> 
> I lost the name and address of the Canadian dealer that had a DRO system
> on display at the NAMES, can anyone provide the name and address and or
> phone number of this dealer?  Thanks,  Bob L.
> -
>   ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com

Shooting Star Technology
52023 Yale Rd.
Rosedale, B.C. Canada VOX 1X0
604-794-3364
fax: 604-794-3139


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Canadian DRO at NAMES ?
Date: 8 Jun 1996 02:23:09 GMT
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The brochure I picked up at NAMES says:

Shooting Star Technology
52023 Yale Rd., Rosedale, B.C., Canada v0x 1X0

Ph. 604-794-3364

Hope this helps..

Regards,

Chuck



From jim111@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jim111@ix.netcom.com(James M Sehr)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BravoCad...anyone ever use it???
Date: 8 Jun 1996 02:43:36 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4otj46$1lue@useneta1.news.prodigy.com> PWZT87A@prodigy.com (Joseph
Knowlden) writes: 
>
>Anyone ever used or know anything about BravoCad?  Is the cam software

>worth the money?  What are the pros and cons of this software?  Are
there 
>better programs available?   Is it better to program CNC lathes
manually 
>or use a cam program such as BravoCad?  Any and all advise would be 
>appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
>
Joe I don't know about BRAVOCAD but I know BOBCAD as I have been using
it for a few years and don't think you can beat it for the price.
best of all you can get a working demo for $15 and try it out. You can
draw the part and program will put the G codes in for you sure makes
it faster then doing all the math. 
                                      jim111@ix.netcom.com


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 8 Jun 1996 00:49:14 -0400
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In article <31b8d894.688429@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(bikerbil) writes:

>Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at 
>>least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a 
>>multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How 
>>about one bank of a V8?
>
>

Smith compressors make a compressor out of a 429 ford and use one bank
forr running and the other for compression.   They still make these.  They
will run a 120 # Jackhammer all day and never get hot.   There is a co
that used to supply a plan for converting a 429 into a compressor.

Cecil in OK


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 01:36:24 -0400
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In article <4p9k41$377@nyx.cs.du.edu>, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert
Galloway) wrote:

$ >: The engine is a 750 V twin, I was thinking of removing 1 carburetor
$ >: and installing some kinda air filter in its place, and taking the
$ >: shimms out of the exhaust cam so it wont open.And installing a check
$ >: valve in place of the spark plug for the output. Then just running the
$ >: engine off the remaining cylinder.
$ >
$ 
$ I'd remove the original head and make a substitute.  You want no dead space 
$ i.e. the combustion chamber and any extra volume leading up to your 
$ valves.  I'd look for a slab of aluminum and probably mill some cooling 
$ fins into it in the process.  I'd also try to find some replacement 
$ catridge type ball valves for a commercial compressor to adapt into my 
$ ersatz head.  If that fails, you could machine your own or try to adapt 
$ check valves.  Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at 
$ least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a 
$ multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How 
$ about one bank of a V8?
$ 
$ rhg 
Schramm built many air compressors from 4 cylinders of a Ford flat head
V8.  Not one bank, but two on each side.  They also built them from Model
A 4 cylinders and Domestic hit and miss engines.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 21:48:30 -0700
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Peter Brooks wrote:
> 
> Nick Irias (cabago@netcom.com) wrote:
> : I want to cast a large number, about 170, of small aluminum parts.  Is
> : there any possibility of re-using a plaster mold for this?  The parts
> 
> While my foundry knowledge is from a couple of books and the net (haven't
> built my melter yet), it sounds as if you'd like to make a bunch of cores.
> SNIP...
> Any *real* casters care to chime in?  I'd like to learn, myself.
> 
> Pete Brooks

Try http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster.

Paul in AJ AZ
A wannabe caster
probably never tho'



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: 8 Jun 1996 06:28:02 GMT
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I have found that "Welding" by Althouse/Turnquist/Bowditch gives a good 
overview of all types of metal joining/fusing.  This is one field where 
there is NO substitute for practice.   "CC"



From ece00@mfg.amdahl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ece00@mfg.amdahl.com (Earl C Edgerton)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
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OK now that we know that the advertised HP is not necessarily the true HP that we
get when we plug it into the wall, but what about the CFM ratings that they claim
the compressor will put out (at 40psi, 90psi).  Are these acurate?  It seems that
when buying a compressor, this would be more of a concern than the HP.  Yes of 
course you need the HP to maintain the psi, but shouldn't a person be more concerned
with the CFM ratings for the tools he plans to use.  Just curious....I am also
looking at buying a compressor

Earl




From jds@cmaster.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question on Lathe tolerances
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 07:18:05 GMT
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
><snip>
>: As is, I chucked up a piece of pipe to turn it down as a test cut and
>: I was quite horrified as to the finish. It is basically one continuous
>: strip of tiny gouge marks - the cut was a very light cut only.
>: Any thoughts anybody ?  I don't want to change the tool post just to
>: find out the flex is normal or is generated in the compound slide.

My experience with pipe is that  it is a difficult material to produce
a good finish on. Before you panic, check your tool angles and
clearances. Use a good cutting oil. Increasing the RPM will sometimes
produce a better finish.

Orca



From tp@iap.net.au Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tp@iap.net.au (Tony Phillips)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WindChimes - my kids want to build HELP
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 09:40:25 GMT
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WindChimes
Can anyone help me. My sons saw some of those aluminium wind chimes in
a shop, and want to build some. These are made of differing lengths of
tubing, and have a wooden striker. There are various sizes, and
therefore tones. 

Can anyone help me with respect to design/plans for these things?
I know my kids would really appreciate it.
Me too :-))
Tony
tp@iap.net.au
Tony Phillips
email tp@iap.net.au



From fsgmg@aurora.alaska.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gary Grata <fsgmg@aurora.alaska.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shoptask owners
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 00:29:40 -0700
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Are there any Shoptask owners out there who'd care to endorse their 
machines one way or another? I'm considering buying a machine and would 
appreciate any feedback from folks who have had experience with these 
machines or dealing with the Company. Thanks......Gary Grata


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
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Subject: Re: Question on Lathe tolerances
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In <4pb9b0$3on@news.dx.net> jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura) writes: 

>My experience with pipe is that  it is a difficult material to produce
>a good finish on. Before you panic, check your tool angles and
>clearances. Use a good cutting oil. Increasing the RPM will sometimes
>produce a better finish.
>
>Orca
>

I'll second the comment on pipe machining finishes.  If the suggestions
given above don't help, and nothing else seems to work either, that's
normal.  My limited (and frustrating) experience with machining pipe
suggests that the problem is that the material of which pipe is made
tends to rub on the cutting tool which sets up a vibration in the pipe.
I would think that there should be some optimum set of tool angles that
would minimize this but I've never been able to determine what those
might be.

Regards,
Dale


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: 8 Jun 1996 12:05:25 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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The catalog published by Power Model Supply lists casting kits for 
the Seal (5/8 bore) and the Seal Major (13/16 bore).

Give them a call at 314-586-6466.  Hours are M - F 9:00 to 3:00.
Power Model Supply is located south of St. Louis, MO.



Best Regards,

Chuck 



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 13:41:01 GMT
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Lines: 29

 
In article <CPEARLS.96Jun7092449@sloop.mit.edu>, Craig P. Earls (cpearls@athena.mit.edu) writes:
>
>The web page at www.teleport.com/~shelton/cmm/proj4of5.html pictures a
>model of a SEAL IL-4 engine with castings produced by "Woking
>Precision Models" (could be "Working Precision Models"?).  The owner
>of the web page has no information about the company that produced the
>castings, other than that they are in England.  This engine looks like
>an interesting project and appears sized well for the Sherline
>Equipment I have.  Can anyone out there point to this company or the
>current owners of drawings/castings?
>

They can be found at:

        Woking Precision Models
        10 New Street
        Oundle
        Peterborough
        PE8 4EA

        tel (+44) 1832 272868
        fax (+44) 1832 272760

At least that's where they were a couple of years ago, when I last
got a calogue.

Lots of nice kits for multi-cylinder i.c. engines, small workshop
tools, etc.  Good quality, but a bit expensive. 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question on Lathe tolerances
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 06:36:18 -0700
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Dale A. Keltie wrote:
> 
> In <4pb9b0$3on@news.dx.net> jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura) writes:
> 
> >My experience with pipe is that  it is a difficult material to produce
> >a good finish on. Before you panic, check your tool angles and.....

> I'll second the comment on pipe machining finishes.  If the suggestions
> given above don't help, and nothing else seems to work either,....
> which sets up a vibration in the pipe.
> I would think that there should be some optimum set of tool angles that
> would minimize this but I've never been able to determine what those
> might be.
> 
> Regards,
> Dale

How about using your follower rest?  Or at least a large center... 

Paul in AJ AZ



From peterl@scruznet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Peter Lawrence <peterl@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: welder questions
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 06:50:04 -0700
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  I have a few questions regarding welders, answers to any and all will 
be welcome. Thanks in advance.

  I have been watching the newspaper classifieds for TIG welders and all
I see are MIG. Is there any difference other than the torch tip. Can a
MIG be used as a TIG just be leaving out the wire spool and putting on a
TIG tip (do they make such tips for MIGs?). Does the welder have to be
able to do both + and - polarities (doesn't TIG use - on the tip to keep
the tungsten from melting, and MIG us + on the tip to help melt the wire?).
Do MIGs generally have High Frequency start, or if not can they generally 
be adapted or is this very manufacturer make/model specific.  What else 
would or could be incompatible.

  I have heard that for thin sheet metal a larger unit (more amps) is
preferable, because even though you wont use the amps on thin metal you
will benefit from a more stable arc with a larger transformer. Is the
same true of the solid-state (inverter) type welders. What are peoples
experience and opinions on this.

  Is there a big difference between a plasma cutter and a TIG/MIG unit
other than the torch tip, are there tips available for TIG/MIG units for
doing cutting?

Thanks,
Peter Lawrence (peterl@scruznet.com)



From Billwat@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Billwat@ix.netcom.com (Bill Watson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Power hacksaws
Date: 8 Jun 1996 15:30:50 GMT
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I am tired of using a hand saw for my occasional metal projects.  Any one have 
any feed back on the grizzly 4x6 saw for $199 or any reccomendations? It will 
be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.

Bill Watson


From davidlindq@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com (Davidlindq)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 8 Jun 1996 14:24:38 -0400
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J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:

"I guess I don't understand why the Knight Foundry Property would cost
$750,000. IMHO it is worth about $300K max..."

What I wrote previously was:

"Friends of Knight Foundry, which was seeking money to acquire the site
_and_ stabilize _and_ improve it has not come anywhere close to raising
the estimated $750,000 to $1,000,000 needed to do all this."

This money is the amount that Ed Arata said was needed not simply to buy
the property from the owner, Carl Borgh, but also to do the necessary work
to stabilize the site and to make needed improvements. It does not
represent the asking price or the perceived fair market value of the
property.



David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: index or rotary table first
Date: 8 Jun 1996 18:31:36 GMT
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what would be the best to buy first, a index table or a rotary table? i'm 
building my first hit and miss engine and can't aford to buy both at this 
time, but plan to buy both in the future.



From wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: index or rotary table first
Date: 8 Jun 1996 18:32:00 GMT
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what would be the best to buy first, a index table or a rotary table? i'm 
building my first hit and miss engine and can't aford to buy both at this 
time, but plan to buy both in the future.



From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What does AISI 440A contain?
Date: 8 Jun 1996 14:32:45 -0400
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     Per my Tool and Manufacturing Engineers Handbook (SME 1976 
third edition) page 1-73 AISI 440A contains, in % by weight  (nominal
composition) :
     C    0.60 - 0.75
     Cr 16.0 - 18.0
      Ni    0
      Mn  1.0 max
      Mo   0.75 max
 
     "Limits on sulfur, phosphorus and silicon can be obtained from other
AISI specifications."

Cliff Huprich
CAE/CAD/CAM Applications Engineer/Programmer


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Red Loc-Tite
Date: 8 Jun 1996 14:33:24 -0400
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    Of course you could always use a center punch between on the 
area between the hole & the setscrew --- the resultant "peen" would
prevent the screw from turning.
Cliff Huprich


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 8 Jun 1996 20:30:03 GMT
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I am also building my first hit & miss engine.  I have used my index head 
to cut the gears but have not used the rotary table.  They are both 
handy tools, but I don't anticipate using the rotary table on this 
engine.

Guess, I'd vote for the indexing head.  Mine is an import from MSC and it 
seems to work just fine.

Which engine are you building?

Best regards,

Chuck




From congreve@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 8 Jun 1996 21:01:26 GMT
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In <4pcgv0$smg@cletus.bright.net> william tietz
<wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net> writes: 
>
>what would be the best to buy first, a index table or a rotary table?
i'm 
>building my first hit and miss engine and can't aford to buy both at
this 
>time, but plan to buy both in the future.
>

I'm not sure that I see it as a dilemma.  Palmgren, and others, make
tables which you can turn continuously with a crank but which also come
with index plates and a detent assembly so that you can index.

              Alan Heldman



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:08:02 -0700
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Bill Watson wrote:
> 
> I am tired of using a hand saw for my occasional metal projects.  Any one have
> any feed back on the grizzly 4x6 saw for $199 or any reccomendations? It will
> be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.
> 
> Bill Watson

I got one of the many 4 X 6 bandsaws being offered (Enco) and sure wouldn't be without 
it...  I had heard that the 4x6 saws were rickety and read an article where someone 
beefed up the legs w/plywood.  I hadn't felt that to be necessary.  Broke a few 
blades-due no doubt to my adjusting it...  Write out the check, get out the VISA,
or whatever.  Everyday you wait is one less day you'll have to use it..

Paul in AJ AZ


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:22:48 -0700
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CC: C, Kuhn, &, W, Tietz

kuhncw wrote:
> 
> I am also building my first hit & miss engine.  

Which engine are you building Chuck?

>I have used my index head
> to cut the gears

Did you buy gear cutters or grind your own???

>but have not used the rotary table.  They are both
> handy tools, but I don't anticipate using the rotary table on this
> engine.

Aren"t you rounding any rod ends, etc.?  I tho't that was real neat.  Guess that could 
be done w/the dividing head though.
> 
> Guess, I'd vote for the indexing head.  Mine is an import from MSC and it
> seems to work just fine.

I must have gotten the same one.  It came Wednesday-faxed the order on Monday.  That 
MSC is really something.  The did the samething when I ordered the catalog.
They have a web page  http://www.industry.net/mrop/msd  (Sorry I don't know how to
highlight that and get you right there)

> 
> Which engine are you building?
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Chuck

Paul in AJ AZ



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question on Lathe tolerances
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 14:03:02 -0700
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Thanks to all the people making suggestions on my lathe finish
problems. I have pretty much solved my problems and thought the group
might be interested in the outcome.
My problem has three causes:

1) I was trying to cut way too deep for the kind of lathe that this is
(1/2 hp) . Thanks to Steve Rayner for pointing this out. He also
pointed out that finishing cuts should be in the 0.001 or so range. I
was trying to cut too deep in both roughing and finishing cuts.

2)This being the first time for me running a lathe, I really didn't
know what I was doing with the tool shape. I was so far out that I
consider myself lucky to just have had chatter. Thanks to John
Dammeyer for giving me lessons on tool design and for all his help in
getting things going.

3) The motor produces a vibration that can be seen on the work piece
as a harmonic pattern. This will eventually be eliminated once I
isolate the motor mounting a bit better. Again, thanks to John
Dammeyer for helping to sort that out.

Thanks to all the other suggestions from people out there in net land.

Jens


From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 8 Jun 1996 15:20:28 -0700
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In article <4pcgh6$4pv@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
Davidlindq <davidlindq@aol.com> wrote:
>J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:
>
>"I guess I don't understand why the Knight Foundry Property would cost
>$750,000. IMHO it is worth about $300K max..."
>
>What I wrote previously was:
>
>"Friends of Knight Foundry, which was seeking money to acquire the site
>_and_ stabilize _and_ improve it has not come anywhere close to raising
>the estimated $750,000 to $1,000,000 needed to do all this."
>
>This money is the amount that Ed Arata said was needed not simply to buy
>the property from the owner, Carl Borgh, but also to do the necessary work
>to stabilize the site and to make needed improvements. It does not
>represent the asking price or the perceived fair market value of the
>property.
>
>David Lindquist
>Davidlindq@aol.com

David, thanks for the clarification.  I wonder now what the asking price 
is?  As I suggested before, should some people get together in a trust 
partnership and buy the place?  Maybe Ed Arata has a prospectus listing 
the repairs and improvements he has envisioned and the costs he 
attributes to these items.  It would be interesting to explore this.

JerryK


From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Spindle
Date: 8 Jun 1996 15:25:58 -0700
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Does anyone know of or recommend a brush DC motorized spindle about 3" OD 
and 6-8" long with a 1/2" drill chuck attached.  Common ones for multiple 
drill head drill presses are usually air driven.  But I am looking for 
one that is DC driven for a CNC drill press.  Is there anyone I can 
contact that would have a rebuilt or used unit?

JerryK


From bernien@rahul.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bernie New <bernien@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mystery metal
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 15:50:31 -0800
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Can anyone out there help me identify the piece of metal that I'm 
holding up to my monitor?

For those of you with failing eyesight (:-), it's a bar of round 
"bronze" that I bought at a local scrap yard. In trying to identify it 
myself, I estimated its specific gravity at 7.4, less than I would 
expect. A similar estimate on a piece of brass gave 8.6, which agrees 
with the table in the Machinery Handbook. The MH only lists bearing 
bronze, however, which is slightly denser than brass.

The outer surface of the bar has what appears to be a smooth brown oxide 
scale from when it was manufactured. The ends are a brownish-gold color 
consistent with bronze, but I cannot see the true color since the ends 
have probably darkened somewhat due to oxidation. (I don't want to cut 
into it with a file until I can rule out noxious things like beryllium.) 
It looks a little lighter in color at the bottom of a center hole in one 
end.

I know this would be a difficult question even if you could see it, but 
does anybody have any ideas? Is its density consistent with aluminum 
bronze, for instance?

Thanks,

Bernie.


From fabnet@mail.cei.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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subscribe


From walter@walter.airtime.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (walter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re Gun Barrel Drilling
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 00:44:12
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Gun Barrels are bored with a D bit, unlike twist drills they dont wander off 
center. Damascus Steel Barrels are made from thin strips of alternating 
wrought Iron and Mild Steel forge welded together hammered out and folded 
several times, then hammered into a 1/4 inch strip, then twisted and hammered 
square again, then forge welded around a mandrel undersize, then bored out 
with a D bit, rifled if needed. The outside is then turned to sixe and the 
etched with acid to highlight the Damascene, and then browned NOT BLUED.

Walter


From Your_Email_Address Tue Jun 18 10:29:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Your_Email_Address (Your_Login)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 8 Jun 1996 21:16:39 GMT
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Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?



From twagner@island.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Wagner <twagner@island.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto welding . . .
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 18:31:00 -0700
Organization: Websurfer, Wagner Woodcraft Workshop
Lines: 20
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Jeremy Kassis wrote:
> 
> What's the minimum amperage you recommend for MIG welding work on an auto?
> 
> ======================================================================
> Jeremy Kassis                                      Stanford University
> jkassis@leland.stanford.edu                        P.O. Box 2631
> http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jkassis            Stanford, CA  94309
> ======================================================================Recommendation in "Lincoln Proceedure Handbook" is .030 wire, 17 volts 35 
amps.  I use the lowest current on my Lincoln (which unfortuntely is not 
calibarated) .024 and a mixture of 75% Argon 25% CO2.  I try to stitch or 
weld in pre-punched holes much like spot welding.  It is an aquired art 
totally dependant on the metal.  Metal must be extremely clean, most 
trouble occurs when folk try to use MIG on dirty, rusty metal.
-- 

     <<<Tom Wagner, Guru Of Old Stuff and Consumate Collector>>>>
     email twagner@island.net URL http://www.island.net/~twagner/
      Home of old British Cars n' Stuff that most folk throw out.
          IF LUCAS ELECTRIC MADE GUNS, WARS WOULDN'T START


From twagner@island.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Wagner <twagner@island.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 18:34:17 -0700
Organization: Websurfer, Wagner Woodcraft Workshop
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Clarence Noyer wrote:
> 
> I have found that "Welding" by Althouse/Turnquist/Bowditch gives a good
> overview of all types of metal joining/fusing.  This is one field where
> there is NO substitute for practice.   "CC"

Lincoln Electric has published the 100 anniversary handbook "The 
Proceedure Handbook of Electric Arc Welding"  It is a good sized hard 
covered book, and I find it invaluable.  It even gives the history of 
welding.  At 15 bucks it is a bargain...
-- 

     <<<Tom Wagner, Guru Of Old Stuff and Consumate Collector>>>>
     email twagner@island.net URL http://www.island.net/~twagner/
      Home of old British Cars n' Stuff that most folk throw out.
          IF LUCAS ELECTRIC MADE GUNS, WARS WOULDN'T START


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Tue Jun 18 10:29:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto welding . . .
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 22:37:04 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
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To: Jeremy Kassis <jkassis@leland.Stanford.EDU>

Jeremy Kassis wrote:
> 
> What's the minimum amperage you recommend for MIG welding work on an auto?
> 
> ======================================================================
> Jeremy Kassis                                      Stanford University
> jkassis@leland.stanford.edu                        P.O. Box 2631
> http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jkassis            Stanford, CA  94309
> ======================================================================

I have a Millermatic 130 and use it for automotive welding. The gas wire
is great for sheet metal but I need flux core wire to work on the frame
of a full frame vehicle. The flux core is kind of a pain, you have to
scrape the flux off, but it is a better alternative than a bigger
machine for my purposes.

The 130 runs on 115 volts and has four heat settings, which I did not 
think was enough control for welding sheet metal. After a little advice
and a lot of practice I would recommend this welder to anyone.

Hope this helps, Jeff Trites


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 23:58:02 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <blake-0806962358490001@206.84.2.50>
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In article <Dsn0HF.A3F@ccc.amdahl.com>, ece00@mfg.amdahl.com wrote:

$ OK now that we know that the advertised HP is not necessarily the true
HP that we
$ get when we plug it into the wall, but what about the CFM ratings that
they claim
$ the compressor will put out (at 40psi, 90psi).  Are these acurate?  It
seems that
$ when buying a compressor, this would be more of a concern than the HP. 
Yes of 
$ course you need the HP to maintain the psi, but shouldn't a person be
more concerned
$ with the CFM ratings for the tools he plans to use.  Just curious....I am also
$ looking at buying a compressor
$ 
$ Earl
Make sure the CFM is rated at the pressure you need to run.  A good
compressor's CFM should be rated at150 psi or 175 psi.  Not 40 or 90 psi. 
My 5 hp Champion is rated at 16.5 CFM @ 175 psi or 19.1 CFM @ 125 psi.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From sherrick@slonet.org Tue Jun 18 10:29:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cracks in 309 SS welds
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 21:12:08 -0700
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You might try a different 309 alloy. I might suspect a carbide
precipitation problem. To eliminate use a 309 L (L standing for low
carbon) filler and base material.

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On 6 Jun 1996, Wirdweird1 wrote:

> We are experiencing cracking of welds in .060" 309 SS after roll
> planishing the welds.  We are using 309 filler rod with argon purge and
> backfill on an automatic seam welder. The parts are aerospace and the
> cracks, very small, are unacceptable.  Can anybody help. 
> 
> 



From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Spray Mist woes
Date: 8 Jun 1996 20:43:07 -0700
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	Well, I've dismanteled the whole thing, cleaned it in the 
ultrasonic cleaner and put it all back together and still the problem 
persists: the soluble oil mostly dribbles out in spite of ok (not great) 
air flow. Inside the main housing is what looks to be a tire inflator 
valve whose opening is controlled by a brass pin which is screwed down on 
top of the valve's smaller pin with a small knurled threaded brass knob. 
Has anyone else had any similar problems with one of these systems?? 
What's the secret to getting it working right??
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Zathras is way cool...
	COMING SOON		:	
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From bill.fernihough@bchydro.bc.ca Tue Jun 18 10:29:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bill.fernihough@bchydro.bc.ca (bill fernihough)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stainless Steel Nails
Date: 9 Jun 1996 05:24:14 GMT
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Can anyone identify a supplier or maker of Stainless Steel Nails which we
would like to use in wet locations rather than galvanized nails.  Many
thanks.

-- 
honey is sweeter than wine


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: And Home ElectroPLATING?
Message-ID: <1996Jun8.165507.23610@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 8 Jun 96 16:55:06 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4p9rdt$aut@wolfe.wimsey.com>, mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser) writes:
|>I picked up a used copy of a Lindsay reprint on metal polishing and 
|>plating...  Original 1904 or so... Cyanide, HF, HCl, H2SO4, mixing,
|>gassing, boiling, etc..  enough to give me the creeps.  all I wanna
|>do is the odd clock dial or other small part, in silver and / or 
|>Brass etc.  
|>
|>[I asked a week or so back, but here goes again...] is there an
|>improved [safer!] set of processes besides Silver Nitrate that one
|>can use these days?  I won't touch the procedures in the book...

You might go read the FAQ, which has a section on anodizing which
in turn has several references to electroplating.  The vendor section
has a few pointers to electroplating suppliers (e.g. Caswell) and
a few books on electroplating (Electroplating for the Amateur, by L.
Warburton, and The Electroplater's Handbook, by C.W. Ammen, and
Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory).

See also:

       http://www.finishing.com
       http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html

The FAQ is available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal
directory, and much of it is also at
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Boing Surplus directions PLEASE
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 21:34:37 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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It looks like I might have a chance to drop by Boing Surplus next
week. Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced my flier that I picked up
last time down there showing how to get there and hours of operation. 
Could some kind soul please EMAIL (!!!!) me instructions on how to get
there assuming I am going south on I5 from Canada.

They used to be closed Mondays - is that still the case?
What are hours for Tuesday and Wednesday?

PLEASE email your response as usenet will probably take too long to
get your posting to me. 

Thanks in advance.

Jens


From bfairey@hookup.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 7075 Aluminum
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 08:59:27 GMT
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edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:

> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:

>>ultimate and yield strengths are greatly dependent
>>on temperature. 

>Okay, but does yield strength correlate with/to stiffness?

>For instance, for a given piece of Aluminum angle of the same size, 
>thickness and profile, which of the 3 alloys, 2024, 6061 or 7075, would 
>have the greater stiffness, in the sense of rigidity, at room temperature?

>------------------
>Ed Kingsley

2024 because it mod of el is 10.6 x10/6
7075 is 10.4 and deflection is a function of the above.
Brian




From robmccoy@chattanooga.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: robmccoy@chattanooga.net (Rob McCoy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Interested in metalworking...where do I go first??
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 08:02:15 GMT
Organization: Chattanooga Online!
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I am very interested in pursuing metalworking as a hobby/art.  I am
especially interested in casting metals and my wife enjoys
cutting/soldering to make small pieces.  Are there any definitive
books or catalogs on the subject or locations on the Net I should
check out?



From bfairey@hookup.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: #35 sprockets, source
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 08:52:12 GMT
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I am looking for a source of #35 chain sprockets in sizes from 35-62
teeth ( yes for karts). Most catalogs list these sizes to special
order but I bet somewhere in North America these sizes are sitting on
a shelf gathering dust. But where.
Thanx.
Brian.
bfairey@hookup.net



From ulfbe@ikp.liu.se Tue Jun 18 10:29:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ulf Bengtsson <ulfbe@ikp.liu.se>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The Model Engineer
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 12:07:46 +0000
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I have been trying to locate the address of the Model Engineer - the journal in which G.H. 
Thomas published most of his work. 

Can any of you on this news group help me with the address?

Ulf B


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Canadian DRO at NAMES ?
Date: 9 Jun 1996 12:38:41 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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One response I received stated there is some start up problems with this 
company.  Does anyone have one of these DRO systems, if so would you be 
willing to give us a report on it.   Thanks, Bob



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Message-ID: <1996Jun9.123222.16743@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4pcqjn$o38@news.skyweb.net>
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In article <4pcqjn$o38@news.skyweb.net>, Your_Login <Your_Email_Address> wrote:
>Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
>instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
>other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?

A HSS tap will outlast a carbon steel tap above 8-1 in abrasive
materials such as cast iron and high silicon aluminum.  For some small
classes of tapping you can expect about the same life, but for a small
shop operator the advantages of HSS over carbon steel are pretty clear.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From slvrsmth@ids.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director" <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.antiques,rec.arts.fine,alt.artcom
Subject: Books on Silver
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 22:00:07 -0700
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:12391 rec.crafts.misc:21656 rec.crafts.metalworking:29489 rec.antiques:39959 rec.arts.fine:27395 alt.artcom:14943

Looking for recommendations for books on silver?  Check out Jeffrey 
Herman's collection, many with reviews, on "The Library" page of the SAS 
site.
-- 
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interested in metalworking...where do I go first??
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 06:46:59 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: robmccoy@chattanooga.net

Rob McCoy wrote:
>  Are there any definitive
> books or catalogs on the subject or locations on the Net I should
> check out?

By all means check out  

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster

Mr. harness has some interesting pages.

Then get on the E-mail to Lindsay Publications

qbca53a@Prodigy.com

ask for their metalworking catalog.  They are republishers of many books,
v-e-r-y  interesting, reasonably priced.  They sell a series by David Gingery
on casting aluminum, starting with making a small foundry utilizing common 
charcoal, making wood patterns, etc.  The other 5 in the series deal with
making a small lathe, a milling machine, drill press, shaper (saw one of
 those in action the other day at an engine show), and some accessories.
Lindsay also sells videos of the casting operation.

A posting, just prior to yours, from James Kirkpatrick gives the address
of the FAQ for this subject.  That could keep you busy for a while.

Get into this and you could put a serious dent in the used beercan
population.  Maybe go around at night stealing screendoors and siding
for casting stock  :)

Have fun

Paul in AJ AZ
NRA Life Member


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Model Engineer
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 06:50:20 -0700
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Ulf Bengtsson wrote:
> 
> I have been trying to locate the address of the Model Engineer - the journal in which G.H.
> Thomas published most of his work.
> 
> Can any of you on this news group help me with the address?
> 
> Ulf B

See the posting by James Kirkpatrick just prior to yours.
He gives the link to the FAQ.  Then add it to you Bookmarks.

Paul in AJ AZ



From Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gordon French <Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: 9 Jun 1996 13:58:40 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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     If anybody in the San Francisco Bay Area is interested in the 
construction and running of this type of engine should note that there is 
a group called the Bay Area Model Engine Modelers that meets once a month 
in Hayward.  For more information Email me: 
gordon.french@worldnet.att.net

Gordon French



From rnichols@interaccess.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!interaccess!omega-3.null.org!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ??Sort of STUPID Question About Machining PINEWOOD DERBY WHEELS??
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 03:38:45 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <DsprGL.Ev5.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <4na1id$aav@ssbunews.ih.att.com> <4p0on4$jhf@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <babcock.1.0013A624@infi.net> <4p3b1m$936@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d134.w.interaccess.com

In article <4p3b1m$936@sanjuan.islandnet.com>,
John Dammeyer <johnd@islandnet.com> wrote:
:
:Maybe that is why the Hot Tamale is so fast.  The front end curves
:upwards so it has a slight edge at the start.

The two tricks I know of are:

 a) Keep the point of the nose high so that the car gets an early start.

 b) Concentrate the weight toward the rear of the car, so that it starts
    out higher on the ramp and gives you a longer push.

Also, spray furniture wax (such as Pledge®) works even better than
Teflon® as a lubricant.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From shockey@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 9 Jun 1996 08:21:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
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In article <4pcubc$p2o@crl10.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
>From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
>Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
>Date: 8 Jun 1996 15:20:28 -0700

>In article <4pcgh6$4pv@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
>Davidlindq <davidlindq@aol.com> wrote:
>>J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:
>>
>>"I guess I don't understand why the Knight Foundry Property would cost
>>$750,000. IMHO it is worth about $300K max..."
>>
>>What I wrote previously was:
>>
>>"Friends of Knight Foundry, which was seeking money to acquire the site
>>_and_ stabilize _and_ improve it has not come anywhere close to raising
>>the estimated $750,000 to $1,000,000 needed to do all this."
>>
>>This money is the amount that Ed Arata said was needed not simply to buy
>>the property from the owner, Carl Borgh, but also to do the necessary work
>>to stabilize the site and to make needed improvements. It does not
>>represent the asking price or the perceived fair market value of the
>>property.
>>
>>David Lindquist
>>Davidlindq@aol.com

>David, thanks for the clarification.  I wonder now what the asking price 
>is?  As I suggested before, should some people get together in a trust 
>partnership and buy the place?  Maybe Ed Arata has a prospectus listing 
>the repairs and improvements he has envisioned and the costs he 
>attributes to these items.  It would be interesting to explore this.

>JerryK


While I haven't visited this site, I have followed this thread 
for the past few days. It occurs to me that, if the description 
I've seen of the physical condition is at all accurate, you might 
well need to budget that 1M before you get the papers signed. 
Since no one in his right mind would buy a piece of property 
anymore without, at least, a Level One Enviro. Survey, I'm 
sure you are aware of how quickly the price of an old industrial 
site can soar, once the cleanup starts. It may well be that  "repairs 
and improvements" are the least of the costs associated with 
owning this parcel. 

Good luck, 


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From mss@teletech.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mss@teletech.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling? -Reply
Date: 5 Jun 1996 07:19:07 -0400
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     The forging and drilling and rifling of a gun barrel are covered in the
book "Foxfire 5."  As for buying barrels several good commercial barrels
can be bought through several different different catalogs, Dixie gun
works, Mountain state muzzleloading, Log cabin gun shop.  You can also
pick up several different gun barrels at the National muzzleloading rifle
association spring shoot in Friendship, In. this weekend June 8, 1996. 
The only question after you decide what caliber is what type of barrel
are you looking for?  The outside of the barrel can be straight octagon,
tapered octagon, swamped octogon, octagon to round, round.  Every
thing you need to build a rifle modern to antique firearms can be bought
at Friendship, In.

>>> russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) 06/03/96 12:25pm >>>
In article <bconner-3105961708200001@dial1-29.cybercom.net>,
Bruce Conner <bconner@cybercom.net> wrote:
>So, anybody know in detail how to do this job?  I know about gun drills
>but there have to be a lot of tricks and kinks to using them and getting
>everything to go smoothly.

Gun drilling is usually done horizontally with oil or other lube under
pressure through the drill bit.  The drill bit is an oddly shaped bit
and is stationary with the material being turned.

Drilling, however is only the first stage.  You then have to ream or
otherwise polish to the land diameter, or a diameter slightly below
depending on how you're planning of rifling the barrel.

Rifling is done either by using the traditional "hook" cutter or
through button rifling.  A hook cutter is a cutter shaped somewhat
like a hook mounted on a bore filling plug.  The cutter take off as
little as .0001" per pass, the cutter being indexed through the number
of grooves before being adjusted to the next cut depth.  While the
cutter is being drawn through the blank it is given the proper
rotation to form the desired twist.

In button rifling a carbide button is formed with grooves for the
lands it will form and lands for the grooves it will form.  It is then
slightly oversize for the bore, forming the lands and grooves while
being drawn through the barrel under hydraulic power.

So gundrilling is just the start of the process, and really not that
much of the total effort.  I'd just buy a barrel from a reputable
maker myself.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers




From psh@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boing Surplus directions PLEASE
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 09:04:49 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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I now have directions courtesy of  Ernie Leimkuhle.
Thanks to everybody.
Jens


From xlch58@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Message-ID: <xlch58DsovoD.MtD@netcom.com>
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bikerbil (bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net) wrote:

:  Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at 
: >least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a 
: >multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How 
: >about one bank of a V8?

: If its true that more is better than the V8 should be just about
: right, but a 12 cycl Jaguar would be perfect. hehehe
: >
: >rhg 
: >

Its not the number of jugs, its the displacement (or more probably total 
swept volume) I believe the Jag is only a 305cid or so.    


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 9 Jun 1996 18:07:12 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4pf3sg$oij@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) wrote:
>>Has anyone put together an electropolishing setup, what is involved in 
>>doing this process.
>>
>>Lionel Titchener
>>
>
>I've done a little electropolishing, mostly of chrome-cobalt alloys but 
>some SS.  I think for different alloys the pro's use different modifiers 
>in the electrolyte.  I used pure, concentrated phosphoric acid.  I don't 
>think there's a significant minimum current density, the rate of action 
>just goes down with the density, within reason.  I used a battery charger 
>as a DC current source and SS for the cathode.  You make the work the 
>anode as I'm sure you already know.  
>
>You didn't mention the size of piece you'd want to polish or the number.  
>If I were you, I'd get some phosphoric acid,  (Insert usual precautionary 
>statements regarding acid, it's pretty tame stuff), grab an available DC 
>power supply and experiment.  If you're going to do it as a production 
>process you might eventually want to check out the equipment from a 
>plating supply outfit.
>
>rhg
>
How well does this polish, really bright, matte, will "as cast" surfaces polish up or does one 
smooth the surface out first? How big a battery charger? How close do you place the anode to 
the cathode? Will this work in aluminum? I suppose we should come up with a standard object so 
we all talk about the same thing. Say 2"X2" X2" Is there a recommended amp/sq. in.? How about 
suggested reading? Thanks Bob




From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boing Surplus directions PLEASE
Date: 9 Jun 1996 14:03:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Okay directions to Boeing Salvage:

Heading south on I-5 go through Seattle, and take the turnoff for I-405
north. take exit-2, heading south on State road 167.
Take 167 to the second exit , 212th Street South. At the end of the ramp
turn right. At the first intersection turn right. 
You will be going north on East Valley Highway. Go about 2 blocks and it
will be on your left. Big gate , hard to miss.

Their hours are 11 am - 5 pm , Tuesday - Friday, and 9 am - 4 pm, on
Saturday. They are still closed on Mondays.
Large items are loaded into vehicles till 4:30 pm on weekdays and 3:30 pm
on saturdays.

The most new stuff is put out on Tuesday morning.

The guy who runs the toolroom is Park and he's a really nice guy who can
be very helpful, so be nice to him.

Best of luck and happy hunting.



@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q]: Gas powered air compressor
Date: 9 Jun 1996 18:13:54 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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sml@plato.ds.boeing.com (Stuart Lewis) wrote:
>A tap of the collective wisdom...
>
>I have the opportunity to purchase a used, 12 horse Kohler powered,
>2 stage, Campbell-Hausfeld compressor.  The price is right but I
>have a couple questions that, perhaps, can get answered here.
>
>The only thing that keeps me from buying it immediately is that it
>is only a 30 gallon tank.  While the rated cfm is really high, what
>I want to know is can I run a pressure sand blaster, da sander, etc,
>etc, without encountering a high cycle rate (even though it's gas
>powered, I think it has a 75% duty cycle do to cylinder heating).
>Otherwise, the solution would be to purchase a 60 or 80 gallon tank
>from say Grainger, and re-fit the powerhead and compressor to that
>- then it's not so good a buy.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Stuart Lewis
>sml@plato.ds.boeing.com
Sense the motors running all the time anyway I feel a high duty cycle is OK and if the CFM is 
suficient for your needs go for it, usual caveats apply. 
PS if do don't buy it will you e-mail me the particulars as I might be enterested. Thanks Bob




From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 9 Jun 1996 14:04:59 -0400
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High speed Taps vs. carbon steel taps ?

Carbon steel taps are more likely to shatter in the hole and will tend to
dull faster. 

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welder questions
Date: 9 Jun 1996 14:05:57 -0400
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My best recommendation is to go down to your local library and check out a
welding textbook. Give it a read and you will find the answers to all of
your questions.

Best of luck
@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From phil@ Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phil@ (Phil Roban)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Nails
Date: 9 Jun 1996 18:50:35 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Society of Physics Students
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bill fernihough <bill.fernihough@bchydro.bc.ca> asks:

>Can anyone identify a supplier or maker of Stainless Steel Nails which we
>would like to use in wet locations rather than galvanized nails.  Many
>thanks.

I hadn't ever seen these until a couple of days ago at a local
mega-building center, Menards. Theirs were from a certain "Swan Fasteners"
who I cannot find in N America.


Call your lumberyard or try Thomas Register
http://www.thomasregister.com


Good luck
Phil Roban n0etx



From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 9 Jun 1996 20:04:32 GMT
Organization: Tattoo Club of Great Britain
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rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) wrote:

(snip)
>I've done a little electropolishing, mostly of chrome-cobalt alloys but 
>some SS.  I think for different alloys the pro's use different modifiers 
>in the electrolyte.  I used pure, concentrated phosphoric acid.  I don't 
>think there's a significant minimum current density, the rate of action 
>just goes down with the density, within reason.  I used a battery charger 
>as a DC current source and SS for the cathode.  You make the work the 
>anode as I'm sure you already know.  
>
>You didn't mention the size of piece you'd want to polish or the number. 

(snip)



The parts are made from 8mm diameter 303 stainless steel. Turned to a cone 
on one end,with a 1.5 mm hole. Then drilled 6mm diameter the other end  
about 45mm deep. Made in batches of 200/300 at a time and barrelled in 
ceramic media for final deburring. Polishing at present is done by hand 
with felt wheels and stainless steel polishing compound. (Hyfin from 
Cannings)

Electropolishing is being considered to to save the time and mess of hand 
polishing.

I am interested to hear experience of others with electropolishing, and 
costs involved to purchase the equipment to carry this out.

Lionel Titchener





From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knight Foundry Update
Date: 9 Jun 1996 12:23:40 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <4pf8bs$3el@crl13.crl.com>
References: <4pagc1$kk@crl2.crl.com> <4pcgh6$4pv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4pcubc$p2o@crl10.crl.com> <shockey.525.0833B270@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com

In article <shockey.525.0833B270@primenet.com>,
Jim Shockey <shockey@primenet.com> wrote:

snip...
>
>While I haven't visited this site, I have followed this thread 
>for the past few days. It occurs to me that, if the description 
>I've seen of the physical condition is at all accurate, you might 
>well need to budget that 1M before you get the papers signed. 
>Since no one in his right mind would buy a piece of property 
>anymore without, at least, a Level One Enviro. Survey, I'm 
>sure you are aware of how quickly the price of an old industrial 
>site can soar, once the cleanup starts. It may well be that  "repairs 
>and improvements" are the least of the costs associated with 
>owning this parcel. 
>
>Good luck, 
>--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>

Jim, good comment.  It is doubtful that any contamination other than iron 
and associated metals exist at Knight Foundry.  I don't think they made a 
business of lead, tin, zinc, and other RCRA metals.  While I can't 
predict what may be there without sampling and analysis, at face value 
the dirt and cobwebs, falling paint etc. may be the worst of it.  I would 
think the buildings have lead paint, however, and that may have to be 
removed.  As an historic place, perhaps a waiver can be granted for some 
types of contamination.

JerryK


From Chiparooo@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chip Olson <Chiparooo@aol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bridgeport spindle preload ?
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 15:42:56 -0700
Organization: University of Missouri - St. Louis	
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> I am just finishing rebuilding a VERY used bridgeport 1-HP J-head.
> Somebody replaced the spindle bearing set and then stopped work.  It
> appears that the brand-new bearings have never been run.  After some
> substantial work on other areas, I got a collet set and discovered
> about .005" radial play in the spindle, at the collet end.

  
Some rebuilders as well as OEM use grade 5 ABEC bearings instead of the 
industry standard grade 7 ABEC. With the lower quality bearings intalled, 
an internal grinding set-up is used to true the spindle taper to the 
bearings to assure axial as well as radial concentricity.While this will 
provide .0001 TIR runout when complete, this process must be repeated if 
the bearings are ever replaced.
	
		Chip Olson


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Last Word Radius Dresser?
Date: 9 Jun 1996 21:56:39 GMT
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I was given a Last Word Radius Dresser, and I was given one very quick 
lesson on how to use the dresser.  I would like to know if anybody has 
any written instructions on how to use this dresser or where I should 
look to find instuctions, I have already looked through the Machinery 
Handbook.  Thanks Bob.
-
  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com




From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: heat treater for small quantity
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 22:08:38 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
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Ted Toth <tedx@mpd.tandem.com> wrote:

>I looking for a heat treater who'll do small quantities. Thank.

>Ted

I use Mil-spec Heat treating.  They are in Hungtington Beach, CA.  

When my business was starting, we would deliver a bundle of parts to
them, and could generally pick them up in a day or two.  We would only
drop off a group every two months or so, but the service was still
good.  Now as the business has grown, they have been able to keep up
with our demands.  They are a good shop. 

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee




From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 5 Jun 96 20:03:24 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
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lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) writes:

>I found 2 Oxygen Tanks that are 4x17 and were used apparently for
>medical reasons,,My question is do these tanks have any useful value in
>Welding or Metalwork somehow??
>                              Thanks!
>                                    Lee Ward
>                                          We salvage an recycle
>anything!!


I use such a medical cylinder with an MC acetylene cylinder for a portable
welding/brazing/(very brief) cutting setup.

I had the welding supply house replace the medical style valve with a conventional
style and of course they hydro tested it before filling.  I told 'em I wanted
welding grade O2.  When I went to pick it up, they had filled it with medical
grade, and wanted to charge me medical prices.  When I objected, they emptied
the medical O2 and refilled it with welding O2.  Pretty sillly, huh?

Greg
gdermer@ichips.intel.com


From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Sears Compressors
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 22:37:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29510 rec.autos.tech:173282 rec.autos.4x4:46778

<76257.3632@compuserve.com> wrote:


> I wouldn't touch on of the new home-shop  type Sears/Craftsman units again.  Having looked them
>over since, they all seem to have the same "direct-drive",  undersized compressor-head.  If I couldn't 
>pop for the $500 a terrific used one like mine would cost, I'd probably build one with one of the 5 hp
>motors I have laying around and a compressor head (3-5 hp rated) from Harbor Freight.  The tank is no real trick,
>since you're only looking at 150psi in practice.  I've accumulated a couple and they're around, cheap.


For anyone who hasn't noticed, we live in a world where quality seems
to be second to price in determining the viability of a manufacturer.
That is the reason that all of the low quality imports from China and
other places are successful.  At the same time, American suppliers
have often been faced with cost reduction or extinction.  This is
especially true for entry level equipment.  

Now I am as big a capitalist as anyone.   I am glad that we have the
variety of machines available today.  I think that there is a market
for low end machinery, and it is just the ticket for some people.  

I can sympathize with the poster of this original article.  But, not
all Sears compressors should be indicted.  I have had a Sears
Commercial 2 HP 220 V Belt drive compressor for years.  Any real 2 HP
motor should be run on 220 V or more.  The compressor has run
faithfully for years.  I bought it used for $150 about ten years ago.
The original owner used it to make a racing boat, so it has seen
plenty of usage before I got it.    

 I run air tools all of the time in my shop.  There are times that I
have to wait for the compressor to catch up with the consumption from
a sand blaster or die grinder, but if fits the bill for better than
95% of my usage.  For that other five percent, I can wait a little
longer.  Now, I have been tempted to replace the unit with a bigger
compressor from time to time, but I would have to justify it based on
that five percent need.  Consequently, the old reliable 2 HP Sears
unit gets worked pretty hard on occasion.  

There are a few rules that I use when buying equipment.  

--Buy the machine that meets at least ninety percent of your needs.  

--Avoid wasting money on machinery that exceeds 100% of your needs.  

--Learn what makes a good tool or machine.  Apply that knowledge when
you selecting used or new equipment.  

--Buy the best tooling and machines that you can afford.  If you
cannot afford what you need, then wait, or implement a temporary
solution to your needs and save your money for the final solution. 

--And finally, as with many situations, if the price seems too good to
be true, it probably is.  

I do not claim that any or all of these ideas are mine alone, but
these processes have worked for me for many years.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welder questions
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 23:06:08 GMT
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Peter Lawrence <peterl@scruznet.com> wrote:

>I  have been watching the newspaper classifieds for TIG welders and all
>I see are MIG. Is there any difference other than the torch tip. 

TIG welders generally use a constant current power supply, while MIG
uses constant voltage power.  Basically, the open circuit voltage on
the TIG will go very high to say... 50 to 90 V.  As the arc is
established, the voltage goes lower and maintains a constant current
flow.  MIG welder hold the voltage under control, and allow whatever
current is necessary to flow to melt the wire.  In addition, TIG
generally uses the negative terminal connected to the electrode, while
the MIG uses the positive terminal connected to the electrode.  There
are exceptions to this last statement.  


>Can a
>MIG be used as a TIG just be leaving out the wire spool and putting on a
>TIG tip (do they make such tips for MIGs?). Does the welder have to be
>able to do both + and - polarities (doesn't TIG use - on the tip to keep
>the tungsten from melting, and MIG us + on the tip to help melt the wire?).

I have used constant voltage supplies with TIG, and it will work.  The
reason that it works is probably due to the fact that the MIG supplies
have some constant current characteristics, and are not perfect
constant voltage sources.  Never try to use a constant current source
with MIG however.  The wire will not burn back precisely, and the wire
will be welded to the contact tip.  

You are generally correct about the polarity, but there are
exceptions.

>Do MIGs generally have High Frequency start, or if not can they generally 
>be adapted or is this very manufacturer make/model specific.  What else 
>would or could be incompatible.

MIG machines do not use a high frequency start.  It is basic to the
MIG (short circuit) theory that the arc is started with contact
between the wire and weldment.  It is also basic that the arc voltage
is limited, which controls how far the arc can burn the wire back from
the point of contact. 

You would find it hard to start an arc with a TIG torch used on a MIG
supply.  The open circuit voltage is not high enough to enable easy
arcing.  However, once an arc is established, then you could probably
maintain it with a TIG torch on most MIG supplies.  Adding high
frequency would help with arc starting, but is not usable with MIG.  


>  I have heard that for thin sheet metal a larger unit (more amps) is
>preferable, because even though you wont use the amps on thin metal you
>will benefit from a more stable arc with a larger transformer. Is the
>same true of the solid-state (inverter) type welders. What are peoples
>experience and opinions on this.

I have a Lincoln SP 100 and a Powcon Inverter with a wire feeder.  The
Lincoln SP 100 works better on really thin stuff.  The Powcon works
much better on heavier material.  The Powcon has a tendency to burn
through very light metal in the 20 ga range.  But it can supply enough
current to handle heavy wire, and spray arc techniques.  


>  Is there a big difference between a plasma cutter and a TIG/MIG unit
>other than the torch tip, are there tips available for TIG/MIG units for
>doing cutting?

Plasma cutting uses high frequency high voltage power.  The open
circuit voltage will be several hundred volts.  

My Powcon inverter power supply has switches on the front panel to
change modes.  It will provide constant current power for TIG and
stick welding.  It will also provide constant voltage power for MIG.
You have to change torches as you switch modes.  The power supply also
has a third setting for plasma cutting and has a plasma torch attached
to the supply at all times.  

There are rods that are for cutting metal.  There are also carbon arc
gouging torches that will cut metal.  Both of these can be used on a
TIG Constant Current supply.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 23:21:15 GMT
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Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk> wrote:

(snip)


>The parts are made from 8mm diameter 303 stainless steel. Turned to a cone 
>on one end,with a 1.5 mm hole. Then drilled 6mm diameter the other end  
>about 45mm deep. Made in batches of 200/300 at a time and barrelled in 
>ceramic media for final deburring. Polishing at present is done by hand 
>with felt wheels and stainless steel polishing compound. (Hyfin from 
>Cannings)

>Electropolishing is being considered to to save the time and mess of hand 
>polishing.

On these parts use about two amperes at around 12VDC.  Positive is
connected to the work.  The electropolishing will remove burrs and
generally make the parts very shiny.  It will also passivate the
surface when the polishing is done.  Parts can be electropolished in
parallel, but leave a couple of part diameters between adjacent parts.


>I am interested to hear experience of others with electropolishing, and 
>costs involved to purchase the equipment to carry this out.

You can use any DC power supply.  Constant current control is best,
but any supply will work.  The cost is related to the power.  

For what you describe, a small 12 VDC supply from Radio Shack would
work for single parts, but for multiple parts and continuous duty,
more rugged power supplies are required.  I have built
electropolishing supplies for some of my customers for special
applications.  I have made supplies that will provide 30 A to 100 A
continuously 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, but they are expensive.  

McMaster Carr has some 15 Amp supplies that look like they would work.
Get a DC supply with adjustable voltage.  For typical applications,
you can use about one ampere per square inch of surface.  Lower and
higher currents can work with experimentation.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q]: Gas powered air compressor
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 23:34:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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sml@plato.ds.boeing.com (Stuart Lewis) wrote:

>The only thing that keeps me from buying it immediately is that it
>is only a 30 gallon tank.  While the rated cfm is really high, what
>I want to know is can I run a pressure sand blaster, da sander, etc,
>etc, without encountering a high cycle rate (even though it's gas
>powered, I think it has a 75% duty cycle do to cylinder heating).

You only buy yourself a couple of minutes of extra capacity with the
large tank.  Overall, the capacity of the compressor must match or
exceed the usage, or you will run into problems.  A simple equation
rules:

Inflow = Outflow + Accumulation

If the outflow exceeds the inflow, then the Accumulation can only
supply the difference for a short period of time.  In general:

Inflow => Outflow 

for a satisfactory setup.  The reservoir evens out the pressure
fluctuations, and does allow for some peak flow events.


>Otherwise, the solution would be to purchase a 60 or 80 gallon tank
>from say Grainger, and re-fit the powerhead and compressor to that
>- then it's not so good a buy.

You do not have to put the tank directly attached to the compressor.
The additional reservoir can be anywhere in the plumbing system.
There is even some benefit to placing a reservoir near the usage point
to even out pressure drops from piping flow losses.  

The bottom line is that if the compressor matches your outflow needs,
then it will work for you.  Worry about the tank if pressure
fluctuations or short term high peak flows are a problem. 

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Prazzi Lathes
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 23:39:07 GMT
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mail11073@pop.net (JD) wrote:

>Does anyone have experience with Prazzi lathes ?  I am new to the
>hobby and would like something small to aid me in the restoration of a
>60's Chevy auto. 

The Prazi is a good lathe, but is a little cumbersome to setup and
adjust.  I have one at my business.  $500 is a steal.  

This lathe is too small for your application.  I do not think that you
will be satisfied with it.  The one at my business works on parts that
are under 1/8 inch.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee






From bconner@cybercom.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re Gun Barrel Drilling
Date: 10 Jun 1996 00:06:31 GMT
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In article <walter.10.0000BCA3@walter.airtime.co.uk>,
walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (walter) wrote:

> Gun Barrels are bored with a D bit, unlike twist drills they dont wander off 
> center. Damascus Steel Barrels are made from thin strips of alternating 
> wrought Iron and Mild Steel forge welded together hammered out and folded 
> several times, then hammered into a 1/4 inch strip, then twisted and hammered 
> square again, then forge welded around a mandrel undersize, then bored out 
> with a D bit, rifled if needed. The outside is then turned to sixe and the 
> etched with acid to highlight the Damascene, and then browned NOT BLUED.
> 
> Walter

Good stuff on the Damascus process. :')  Do you happen to know if there is
a book or other source that describes the various ways to fold the
laminate to get the various types of patterns?  I have seen some amazing
looking patterns which were obviously not there by accident, the nicest
one being something that looked like square spirals with an occasional
band of something else going around the barrel.  Beautiful stuff, it would
be a pity if the secrets to this were lost.


Bruce Conner
bconner@cybercom.net


From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 9" SB FS or trade.  SanFran area only
Date: 9 Jun 1996 17:19:24 -0700
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I tried to sell this lathe last year with no takers.  Trying once again.  
Located in Richmond, CA near the San Rafael bridge.

It is a South Bend 9" lathe, narrow bed, 18" between centers.  No 
crossfeed or QC gearbox.  Change gears, chucks, standard tool post.  Also 
includes a lever action cross slide and 6 position bed turret for 
repetitive work.  Reversing switch, motor and homebuilt sturdy stand.

The price is $850.00.  I would trade up for a 6 x 12 surface grinder with 
mag chuck, or a 24" shear capable of cutting 1/4" steel, or down for a 24" 
finger brake.  I would also consider a 5hp air compressor 220vac single 
phase, Ingersol-Rand, Gardner-Denver, or Quincy brands only.

Lathe is in excellent condition, good bedways and good headstock 
bearings.  Can be used as is with no cleanup, rebuild, etc.

JerryK


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: #35 sprockets, source
Date: 10 Jun 1996 00:26:27 GMT
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In message <4pcevk$fe5@nic.wat.hookup.net> - bfairey@hookup.net (Brian
Fairey)Sat, 08 Jun 1996 08:52:12 GMT writes:
:->
:->I am looking for a source of #35 chain sprockets in sizes from 35-62
:->teeth ( yes for karts). Most catalogs list these sizes to special
:->order but I bet somewhere in North America these sizes are sitting on
:->a shelf gathering dust. But where.
:->Thanx.
:->Brian.
:->bfairey@hookup.net
:->

Any bearing supply house should have these available. You may have to
wait 1-2 days, but that's not too much, is it? :)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 10 Jun 1996 00:26:31 GMT
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In message <4pcqjn$o38@news.skyweb.net> - Your_Email_Address
(Your_Login)8 Jun 1996 21:16:39 GMT writes:
:->
:->Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
:->instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
:->other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?
:->

HSS taps will stay sharp a -lot- longer than carbon, and IME, don't
break nearly as easily.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From klaas@uniface.nl Tue Jun 18 10:29:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 10 Jun 1996 07:22:40 GMT
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I tried an electric arc using carbon rods from a 4.5 Volts battery (1/4" diameter)
which I put into holes in a chamotte brick with a hole in the center where the
arc would take place. The electrodes are put horizontally.
The purpose is melting metals with high melting point (> 1500 C).
I put the arc in series with a 1500 W electric heater as a ballast on the
220 V 50 Hz (default in Europe) mains. I had to be very aware of the live wires
and used well-insulated screwdrivers to move the electrodes.
Starting when they just touch each other resulted in a bright white light.
Then I *slowly* put them apart until 2 cm (3/4") after half a minute and the humming
noise got louder but the heater got lower. The arc was fairly stable, but putting
a nail in the arc disrupted it. Then I had to switch off power, 
and redo the whole ritual such as putting electrodes close etc.
But it got *very hot* and melted the chamotte easily.
Viewing with my spectroscope, it showed a rather continuous
spectrum with several emission lines superseded on it. When the arc got a little
unstable (made more noise and got brighter) the lines got stronger.
Looking directly into the arc was only possible with *two* pairs of goggles
over each other used normally for an oxyacetelene torch.

I have three questions:

- How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it melts ?
- Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance ballast
  like an electric heater ? Gas-discharge (based on the same principle) 
  lamps do use them.
- Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?
  
Thanks in advance.

Klaas



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: [Q] which resistance wire for electric furnace ?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem,sci.engr.metallurgy
Date: 10 Jun 1996 17:41:44 GMT
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C++ Freak (klaas@uniface.nl) wrote:
: I got Kanthal wire from a friend of about 1 mm thickness with
: 3.7 Ohms/meter.
: When using 15 meters at 230 Volts power it will drag 4 Amps and thus
: yield 900 W (60W/m). When using 7.5 meters it's 8 Amps and 1800 W (240 W/m).


I'm incredibly rusty on the blackbody formulae, but you do need to find out
what the temperature coefficient of resistance is for Kanthal.  It's incredibly
unlikely that your wire will still be at 3.7 ohms/meter at 1100C.  Note that
many ovens have to deal with this--one term is inrush current, which will
be a lot higher than the current at design temp.  Not too far removed from
what you have to deal with in motors, except for the fact that the physics
are completely different.  :-)

Pete Brooks



From cwsmart@digital.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles W Smart <cwsmart@digital.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where does one find info on plastics?
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 20:53:25 +0000
Organization: FLORIDA ONLINE, Florida's Premier Internet Provider
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John Hunt wrote:
> 
> My girlfriend is taking up sewing and they have these cutters which are
> like wickedly sharp pizza cutters.  [Yes, I can personally attest to the
> sharpness! :(  ]  Anyway, they need to be used on a soft plastic surface,
> and the little pads they sell in the yardage store seem rediculously high
> priced.  $45 for 25"x35"!
> 
> So, I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find info on a type of
> plastic I can use to replace this.  I want to build my girlfirend a
> cutting table measuring 4'x6' so the cost of this plastic surface has
> become a major issue.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> -John-
You might look into vinyl drawing board covers. Comes in rolls about 36" 
width. Available at stationery stores or drafting supply outlets

-- 
Have a nice day !!!!		    |	
		           Charles  |    "Jesus Christ is LORD!"  
		                    |   "He IS COMING very soon...
____<-----////-------\\\\----->____ | Are you ready to GREET Him? or 
http://digital.net/~cwsmart/        |    will you hide from HIM?"
email: cwsmart@digital.net	    |


From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Tue Jun 18 10:29:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
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C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>I tried an electric arc using carbon rods from a 4.5 Volts battery (1/4" diameter)
snip
>Looking directly into the arc was only possible with *two* pairs of goggles
>over each other used normally for an oxyacetelene torch.
snip
>- Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?
>  
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Klaas

1. If it were me, I would not use filters intended for oxyacetylene
welding to view an electric arc.  Gas welding produces relatively
low levels of UV compared to arc welding.  I do not know, but I
suspect, that the filtering characteristics of arc welding filters
are such that a single arc welding lens will filter more of the UV
than two gas lens.  Again, unless I had specific knowledge 
regarding the filtering characteristics, I would not take the chance.

2. Regarding iron electrodes not sustaining an arc: arc welding rods
are coated for at least 3 reasons: 
     1. As the heat melts the coating, a relatively inert gas in 
					formed which shields the molten/hat metals
     2. The coating condenses to form a protective slag over the weld
     3. The vaporized coating releases ions which support the flow
     of electrons and play a major role in sustaining the arc.
I am guessing that carbon ions are released into the arc plasma and
sustain the arc when you use carbon electrodes.  Iron, by itself,
 does not do this well.

-Roger




From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto welding . . .
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 23:44:26 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Jeremy Kassis <jkassis@leland.Stanford.EDU> wrote:

>What's the minimum amperage you recommend for MIG welding work on an auto?

A 100 to 120 amp machine would be the minimum that I would recommend.


I use a Lincoln SP 100 with good results.  It does well with 0.024
wire.  I mix gases, but generally use 25% CO2 in Argon.  This works
well on body sheetmetal.  

I also have a larger power supply and wire feeder that I use for frame
welding.  

J. M. Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee



From rstowell@news.hk.super.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rstowell@news.hk.super.net (Mr Richard Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: And Home ElectroPLATING?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 01:35:55 GMT
Organization: Hong Kong Supernet
Lines: 11
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Mark Fraser (mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com) wrote:

: [I asked a week or so back, but here goes again...] is there an
: improved [safer!] set of processes besides Silver Nitrate that one
: can use these days?  I won't touch the procedures in the book...

Check the WEB site:
WWW.VIVANET.COM/~CASWELL/

This is a NY company that specializes in kits for home electroplating.



From Dmills@abcde.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mills <Dmills@abcde.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 19:22:00 GMT
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In article <4pgig0$ojg@news.knoware.nl> klaas@uniface.nl "C++ Freak" writes:

[Chop]

>
>I have three questions:
>
>- How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it melts

Try using the metal as one side of the arc, I would suggest making the arc 
vertical with the electrode lowered onto the metal. 

>- Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance ballast>  like an electric heater ? Gas-discharge (based on the same principle) 
>  lamps do use them.

Yes, but the power factor will be very poor. The carbons normally used in 
arc lamps are copper clad to reduce the voltage drop. I would suggest trying 
to get some of these. I also think that you really need more current to get 
this to work, If you can find one a old penthouse rectifier would work well,
these were used to power the carbon arc lamphouses in film projection until
the advent of xenon lighting. 

>- Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?

The carbon is consumed by the arc so as to form a conductive plasma.

-- 
********************************************************
* And on the first day the lord said...... *           *
*......Lx1, Go! and there was light!       * Dan Mills *
********************************************************
DMX-512 FAQ : ftp.webcom.com/pub1/lightsrc/ftp/dmx512fq.txt


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where does one find info on plastics?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 02:08:26 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <31BB39C4.1647@digital.net> Charles W Smart <cwsmart@digital.net>
writes: 

<in reply to John Hunt query>
> -John-
>You might look into vinyl drawing board covers. Comes in rolls about
>36" width. Available at stationery stores or drafting supply outlets
<snip>

Vinyl drawing board cover is, as you suggest, a good material for the
application.  Much of it is "self-healing" and it will tolerate quite a
bit of the abuse to which service as a cutting board cover would
subject it.  The last time I bought any of the stuff, however, it was
darn near as expensive as the stuff Mr. Hunt mentioned.  A material
which might work almost as well is plain (i.e., unembossed) vinyl floor
covering.  Mr. Hunt could purchase a small piece of this and have his
lady friend test it before committing to a larger piece.

What's a drawing board?

Regards to all,
Dale
 


From jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net (Mike Fallopian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Nails
Date: 10 Jun 1996 02:54:03 GMT
Organization: Yoyodyne
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In article <bill.fernihough-0806962238220001@line256.nwm.mindlink.net>, 
bill.fernihough@bchydro.bc.ca says...
>
>Can anyone identify a supplier or maker of Stainless Steel Nails which we
>would like to use in wet locations rather than galvanized nails.  Many
>thanks.
>
>-- 
>honey is sweeter than wine

These nails (in common & finish style) can be purchased through the mail from
   McFeely's
   1620 Wythe Rd. PO Box 11169
   Lynchburg, VA 24506-1169
   1-800-443-7937



From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Tue Jun 18 10:29:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 02:49:19 GMT
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In article <4pfmfk$gnr@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com> jmstuart@ix.netcom.com writes:

>J. M. Stuart

>Engineer / Inventor / Patentee

You've been patented?  


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re Gun Barrel Drilling
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 19:24:43 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
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Bruce Conner wrote:
> 
> In article <walter.10.0000BCA3@walter.airtime.co.uk>,  Beautiful stuff, it would
> be a pity if the secrets to this were lost.
> 
> Bruce Conner
> bconner@cybercom.net

Bruce try Lindsay Publications

qbca53a@prodigy.com

I don't think that Lindsay fields questions by E-mail, but you might 
give him you snailmail and request a catalog.

Paul


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: 9 Jun 1996 20:14:00 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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: Mount about 10 sets of the cores on a match plate any you would only have
: 17 melts, assuming you can melt that much metal in one shot.  Adjust the
: numbers to suit your needs.
	--If you arrange them like a tree and do investment casting, you 
gain the third dimension and can cast many more. I did this for bronze 
casting of some tricly stanchions and I got all I needed in one pour...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:29:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Any way to re-use plaster molds
Date: 9 Jun 1996 20:27:54 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) wrote:
: casting of some tricly stanchions and I got all I needed in one pour...
	          ^^^^^^ 
	That word is "tricky" as in they were wax pieces, affixed to a 
central "tree" of wax, then put in investment for burning out prior to 
casting in bronze... The use of the "lost wax" process is simple and 
allows one to make many copies of the original in a relatively short span 
of time and to incorporate unusual geometries, without the problem of 
"coping down" to a parting line, since there is none...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Followup-To: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 11 Jun 1996 06:19:08 GMT
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C++ Freak (klaas@uniface.nl) wrote:
: I tried an electric arc using carbon rods from a 4.5 Volts battery (1/4" diameter)
<snip>
: I have three questions:

: - How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it
:  melts ?

Probably you need to pre-heat the metal.  Try keeping the carbons closer
than the max distance.  Then introduce the metal rod very slowly at first,
so the radiant and convective heat transfer can pre-heat the rod.  then,
feed the rod into the arc.

: - Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance
:   ballast like an electric heater ? Gas-discharge (based on the same
:   principle) lamps do use them.

Yes, this should work, but as others have said, it will kill the power
factor.  Also, this will require a HUGE inductor, something like 30+
Kilos of Iron!  Someone also commented about getting a rectifier.  If you
run the lamp on DC, then the inductor must be before the rectifier.  On
DC, the + and - carbons need to be a different size.  The + carbon
receives electrons, and so runs hotter.  You use a larger carbon there
to absorb and dissipate the heat better.  Note that the crater in the
+ carbon is cradling a 20,000+ K plasma, and the UV is catastrophically
dangerous.  One quick peek without adequate protection, and your retina
is fried!

: - Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?

You should be able to make an iron/carbon arc lamp work.  You could
probably make an iron/iron lamp work, too, if you could get it started.
A welder does this, by the way.  The trick is to have a huge inductor
built into the welder unit, to provide a massive stabilizing effect on
arc current.  The Carbon is in powdered form, and is a poor heat conductor
in that form.  Therefore, it boils off a bit when the ends touch, and
easily starts the plasma.  If you could make the iron electrodes have a
similar low thermal conductivity, you could make an iron arc lamp start
as easily as a carbon arc.


From desuint@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: desuint@aol.com (DESUINT)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New Jepson Cut-off saw
Date: 10 Jun 1996 02:22:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Has anyone out there used the new Jepson cut-off saw with the metal blade?
 I am thinking of purchasing one and would like to know if it is faster,
more accurate, and can handle heavier material than an abrasive cut-off
saw.  Any information would be appreciated.

D. Scott


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:29:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 09:17:36 BST
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C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:

> - Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?
 
  I'll have a stab at that one :-  (all figs VERY approx)

          1500w @ 220v = 1500/220 = 6.8amps 
 
           6.8a @ 220v = 220/6.8 = 32ohms (resistance of ballast)

 BEMF across an arc = 40v, leaving 220 - 40 = 180v across ballast

           180/32 = 5.6amps (current through arc)

           40 x 5.6 = 225watts (power or heat in arc)            

 Carbon is a poor conductor of heat and this wattage concentrated
in the small volume of the arc raises the temperature enough to
keep the carbon vapourised.
 Iron is a comparatively good conductor and heat flows away too
fast to allow the temperature to get anywhere near high enough to
vapourise iron.  It needs far more than 225 watts to maintain an
arc with iron - note typical ratings of arc welders and multiply 
by 40 to get some idea of how many.
  -- 
     Cheers

  Mick  S.M.E.E.           "From the inventors shop came
                                 the sound of hammering tin"
  


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:29:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 11 Jun 1996 06:29:33 -0600
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In article <4pgig0$ojg@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak  <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>I tried an electric arc using carbon rods from a 4.5 Volts battery (1/4" diameter)
>which I put into holes in a chamotte brick with a hole in the center where the
>arc would take place. 
>noise got louder but the heater got lower. The arc was fairly stable, but putting
>a nail in the arc disrupted it. 

The voltage drop accross an arc is proportional to it's length.  
Additional applied voltage will increase the current flow without much 
increase in voltage drop accross the arc.  The principle is the same as 
that in the old gas voltage regulator tubes.

Then I had to switch off power, 
>and redo the whole ritual such as putting electrodes close etc.
>But it got *very hot* and melted the chamotte easily.
>Viewing with my spectroscope, it showed a rather continuous
>spectrum with several emission lines superseded on it. When the arc got a little
>unstable (made more noise and got brighter) the lines got stronger.
>Looking directly into the arc was only possible with *two* pairs of goggles
>over each other used normally for an oxyacetelene torch.
>
I'd recommend against that.  Get a lens specifically for viewing the 
electric arc.  A cheap arc weldor's helmet would be the simple solution.



>I have three questions:
>
>- How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it melts ?

I wouldn't try to feed it into the arc.  Depending on what quantity of 
metal you want to melt, you could angle the carbons so the arc is 
directed towards the metal as a flame or strike the arc between the 
carbons and the metal to be melted.  A carbon to carbon arc is easier to 
strike and maintain but an arc between the metal and a carbon will work 
and is commonly used.

>- Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance ballast
>  like an electric heater ? 

An inductive ballast will work very well.

>- Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?

Don't know.  I suspect it has to do with the amount and conductivity of 
vapor put off by the metal versus that from carbon.

>  
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Klaas
>
I tried the same thing in 1958 with two non-coated welding carbons, four 
500W light bulbs in parallel on a piece of concrete.  The superintendant 
of schools and principal saw it and thought it was neat and asked me to 
demo it up in the new science lab.  I was too lazy to carry the piece of 
concrete so we dug up a bunch of Transite (asbestos and portland cement) 
board and built up a stack about 3/4".  The demo was melting and boiling 
glass.  After about half a minute, a burning smell tipped me off we were 
in trouble.  The molten glass had gone right through the transite and 
through the surface of the lab bench.  And *I* caught all the hell. 8-)

rhg




From dide@dgsys.com Tue Jun 18 10:29:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 30 May 1996 00:51:45 GMT
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     Can any of you tell me how to find the leak in a
     vacuum chamber?   It could be the various fittings,
     or it could be my welding.....                    
                                         David Ide


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:00 EDT 1996
Article: 29537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 15:31:56 -0400
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    For HSS or cast alloy tools or carbide, single point turning :
back rake angle : 0 deg
side rake angle : 0 deg
end relief angle : 20-30 deg
side relief angle : 15-20 deg 
side & end cutting edge angle : 10 deg
 
DOC is depth of cut
SFM is Surface Feet per Minute
IPR is inches per revoloution

   For .150" depth of cut (HSS) :
250-350 SFM
.010 IPR
  For .025" depth of cut (HSS M2 or M3) :
300-400 SFM
.002 IPR
  For .150" depth of cut (carbide) :
400-450 SFM
.010 IPR
  For .025" depth of cut (carbide) :
450-500 SFM
.002 IPR

  If the teflon is filled all the above is off -- I'm assuming unfilled
teflon.

  The above data is from the Machining Data Handbook, 2nd edition, 
1972, published by the Machinability Data Center, a DoD Information
Analysis Center, Cincinnati, OH

  From the 3rd edition, 1980, (now published by Metcut Research Associates
Inc.,  3980 Rosslyn Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45209 :

  For .300" depth of cut (HSS M2 or M3) :
300 SFM
.010 IPR
  For .150" depth of cut (HSS M2 or M3) :
350 SFM
.008 IPR
  For .040" depth of cut (HSS M2 or M3) :
400 SFM
.005 IPR
  For .300" depth of cut (carbide C2) :
500 SFM
.012 IPR
  For .150" depth of cut (carbide C2) :
550 SFM
.010 IPR
  For .025" depth of cut (carbide C2) :
600 SFM
.005 IPR

  For diamond tools :

DOC=.005-.015; SFM=1000-2500; IPR=.003-.006 
DOC=.015-.050; SFM=500-1000; IPR=.006-.012 
DOC=.050-.125; SFM=300-500; IPR=.012-.020

  Metcut was purchased/aquired by the Institute of Advanced Manufacturing
Sciences, Inc. 1111 Edison Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45216-2265  TEL. (513)
948-2048 FAX: (513) 948-2109

  The data is now available as a computer program --- and is being
integrated into some higher end CAD/CAM systems. If the hardcopy manuals
are still available they are well worth their cost. The above data
is only for one material and type of material removal process.

  I am not affiliated with any of the above companys --

Cliff Huprich
CAE/CAD/CAM Systems & Applications Engineer/Programmer 


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:00 EDT 1996
Article: 29538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: DC Motors
Date: 10 Jun 1996 20:23:22 GMT
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Erie Pensylvania

I bought my bandsaw from "jwcercis" and would rate it as EXCELLENT. I
would not hesitate to buy from him again!
I am in no way related just very happy with my bandsaw.

Cheers
Daryl

 In article <4p9su1$gsa@news.sdd.hp.com>, wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William
Martin (Temp)) wrote:

> It would be good of you to indicate from what location you want someone
> to pay shipping charges for 110lbs!
> 
> Bill


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:00 EDT 1996
Article: 29539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Best" way to fix broken cast iron
Date: 10 Jun 1996 15:32:18 -0400
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  Large castings are often repaired with thermite.
Cliff Huprich


From johnd@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 16:50:38 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) wrote:

>     Can any of you tell me how to find the leak in a
>     vacuum chamber?   It could be the various fittings,
>     or it could be my welding.....                    
>                                         David Ide

Usually ultrasonics are generated when something leaks.  A company
called UE Systems makes an instrument that shifts the Ultrasonics down
to an audible level.  

Actually,  Most better automotive repair shops will have the same
thing for detecting a leak in the miriad of hoses under the hood.

Principle is just like the IF stage in a radio.  Microphone picks up
ultrasonic, mixed with another frequency, the result is audible which
is amplified and sent to headphones or even just detected  with a
diode and sent to a meter.

John.




From johnd@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spindle
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 16:50:43 GMT
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kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) wrote:

>Does anyone know of or recommend a brush DC motorized spindle about 3" OD 
>and 6-8" long with a 1/2" drill chuck attached.  Common ones for multiple 
>drill head drill presses are usually air driven.  But I am looking for 
>one that is DC driven for a CNC drill press.  Is there anyone I can 
>contact that would have a rebuilt or used unit?

Jerry,
As far as I know most portable electric drills use Universal Motors
which means they can also run off DC.  But that involves a high
voltage power supply.

Even easier are the whole range of battery drills.  The smaller
Makita's use 6 or 7.2 volts and fit your size criteria, come with 3/8"
chuck, thermal overload and could be run off of a battery charger.
Best of all, on sale they run under $50.00.

John.




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: 10 Jun 1996 17:02:25 GMT
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I have to disagree on the statement that the Wiggler works 
the same as an Edge Finder.

The Edge Finder is a dynamic indicator of the location of
an edge, the Wiggler is a pointer on the centerline of the 
longitudinal axis of the spindle to which is attached.

It is a correct statement that the Edge Finder will 'kick'
sideways when it contacts the edge of the work.

A few more tips:

1. Do not chuck the Edge Finder with excessive pressure.  It
   is hollow and can be crushed.

2. You should run the Edge Finder at about 1000 rpm.

3. The spindle should be down so that when you see the 'kick',
   you can retract the spindle and remove the Edge Finder
   from the workpiece.  This saves wear and tear on the
   lapped surfaces of the Edge Finder.

4. View the workpiece/Edge Finder contact by aligning your eye
   behind the Edge Finder and at 90 degrees to the workpiece for
   maximum visibility of the 'kick'.

5. Oil the Edge Finder maybe once a year if you only use it occasionally.
   You may have to pull the pieces just slightly apart to get the oil
   in between them.  Be careful.  If you distort the spring holding the
   pieces together, you will need a new Edge Finder.

6. Make certain there are no burrs on the workpiece or you will get a 
   false edge indication.  The same goes for excessive oil on the
   workpiece.
7. Cheap Edge Finders are probably not worth the effort to take them
   home.  A Starrett does not cost a lot of money and the difference in
   accuracy and ‘action’ between a cheap unit and a Starrett is noticeable.


Wigglers.

Wigglers are used to indicate the axis of the spindle to which they are 
temporarily attached.  In practice, with the spindle turning at about 
1000 rpm, the probe is centered (described later) and then the user 
visually centers the workpiece under the spindle (or the reverse).  
By carefully observing the relationship of the probe and the workpiece, 
the user can center the workpiece within one or two thousandths of an inch.
Wigglers usually come in a small kit with a body and four or five probes, 
each of which have a ball on one end that fits into a socket on the body.  
The socket has a means of tightening the socket/ball fit so that the tool 
will work properly.  One of the probes is bent, with relatively large 
balls on each end.  This probe is to hold a dial indicator.

To use, pick a probe with an end appropriate to the indication required.  
If you want to pick up a scribed center mark on the workpiece, you would 
use the pointed probe.  If you needed to locate the center of a hole, you 
would use a probe with a larger end.

Once you have the probe snapped into the body, tighten the socket until 
a fair amount of friction is felt.  Do not lock the probe in the body.
Next mount the body in the spindle and center the probe with your fingers.
  
Then start the spindle at about 1000 rpm with your hands away from the 
business end of the Wiggler.  You will  probably observe that the probe 
is now spun out to near horizontal (the socket is too loose) or it is 
spinning in a near-perfect and small circle along the spindle axis.
  
Using an object like a pencil (ideal), press the object on the side 
of the probe down near the business end.  Press in towards the spindle 
axis and you will observe several phenomena.

1.  The probe will move to absolute center.
2.  It is hard to move the probe off center with the pencil.
or
3.  If the socket was too loose, the probe is now trying to become 
    a helicopter blade.  If so, stop the spindle and tighten the
    socket some more, reset the probe in the vertical position and 
    start the spindle again.

Now that the probe is running in alignment with the spindle, you can 
use it to align the workpiece or spindle to the proper location.

In practice, when aligning a center point, I find it useful to observe 
the sharp probe/workpiece relationship with a magnifying glass and from 
at least two locations 90 degrees apart.  Sometimes I try to look at 
the relationship every 45 degrees or so.  Done carefully, you can 
achieve an alignment within one or two thousandths of an inch.

When using the Wiggler to find the center of an existing hole, 
I use a probe with a size near that of the hole.  Then, after going 
through the probe alignment procedure, I lower the ball-end of the 
probe into the hole by half of  its diameter.  Then it is a simple 
matter to look at the space between the probe ball and the wall 
of the hole and adjust the workpiece or the spindle position until 
the space is even all around.

When using the bent probe to hold an indicator, the socket has to 
be locked rigid.

Hope this helps.

Mike Rehmus




From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stockpiles (Was: What is this material from soldering iron.)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 11:54:15 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On Fri, 7 Jun 1996, J. Michael Thompson wrote:
<snip>
> You are (unfortunately) quite correct. Now they are after the Helium stockpile. 
> They want to take the world's only commercial-scale source of this very useful 
> material and just vent it to the atmosphere. Why? Because it makes a great 
> sound bite to say: "We aren't going to fight any more wars with zeppelins."
> 

Of course, they probably neither realize nor care, that venting Helium to
the atmosphere tends to vent it to space!  Helium is so hard to retain in
our gravity well that all the helium we have was found trapped below ground.
John


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: 10 Jun 1996 12:37:10 GMT
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It may be cheaper to order directly from England rather than through Power
Model Supply.  I looked at the "Kiwi" engine castings a couple of years ago,
and as I recall the PMS prices were about 2X Woking's prices.  Of course, if
you order directly you have to pay freight on cast iron from England (!), 
which may be considerable, but I imagine it would still end up being cheaper
overall.

I've ordered a few things directly from England (though never from Woking)
and had uniformly good luck.  Give them your credit card number, they charge 
in pounds on their end, you get billed in dollars on your end, and it all 
just works.




From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 15:32:30 -0400
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  Per the Machining Data Handbook for 300 series stainless:
Phosphoric Acid, 100 amps/sq. ft., 122 degrees F for the bath.
  Material removal rates of .0005-.0015"/min ---

Cliff Huprich


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: 10 Jun 1996 16:36:22 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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It's Woking Precision Models
10 New Street, Oundle, Peterborough, PE8 4EA

(in England)

Tel 0832-272868
FAX 0832-272760

I have done business with them (twice). They are honest.

The engine you describe was designed by the late
Edgar T. Westbury, easily the finest designer of
stationary gas and steam engines for model engineering.

It is probably designed to be built on an ML7 Myford
lathe, which is 7" swing.

Regards,
Charlie



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: 10 Jun 1996 12:41:26 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: Billwat@ix.netcom.com

As long as you view it as a "semi-finished kit of parts", you
should be satisfied with it.  I have one (not a Grizzly, but
similar) and after reworking the vise and cleaning up some other
details it does pretty well.  It certainly meets all my needs.




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 10 Jun 1996 12:44:46 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net

I'd go for the rotary table.  See if you can get a horizontal/vertical
model.  Also get the largest size you can reasonably handle.  When you
start needing space for clamps, etc., the table fills up pretty fast.

An indexing/dividing head is pretty specialized.  You may want one
someday, but a rotary table will be more generally useful to you.





From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re Gun Barrel Drilling
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 15:34:44 -0700
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darylb wrote:
> 
> In article <bconner-0906962014490001@dial4-1
> If anybody doesn't know what pattern welding looks like check out;
> 
> http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/guild/
> 
> Then scroll down the page. Well, it blew me away
> 
> Cheers
> Daryl

WOW-did it ever...  What a knife..

Paul in AJ AZ


From jsp@u.washington.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 16:41:52 -0700
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This is not something that I have tried, but I have seen references to
using a magnet to blow the arc into a crusible....As I remember it was in
"Procedures in experimental Physics" available as a reprint from Linsay.

On 11 Jun 1996, Jonathan M. Elson wrote:

> C++ Freak (klaas@uniface.nl) wrote:
> : I tried an electric arc using carbon rods from a 4.5 Volts battery (1/4" diameter)
> <snip>
> : I have three questions:
>
> : - How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it
> :  melts ?
>
> Probably you need to pre-heat the metal.  Try keeping the carbons closer
> than the max distance.  Then introduce the metal rod very slowly at first,
> so the radiant and convective heat transfer can pre-heat the rod.  then,
> feed the rod into the arc.
>
> : - Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance
> :   ballast like an electric heater ? Gas-discharge (based on the same
> :   principle) lamps do use them.
>
> Yes, this should work, but as others have said, it will kill the power
> factor.  Also, this will require a HUGE inductor, something like 30+
> Kilos of Iron!  Someone also commented about getting a rectifier.  If you
> run the lamp on DC, then the inductor must be before the rectifier.  On
> DC, the + and - carbons need to be a different size.  The + carbon
> receives electrons, and so runs hotter.  You use a larger carbon there
> to absorb and dissipate the heat better.  Note that the crater in the
> + carbon is cradling a 20,000+ K plasma, and the UV is catastrophically
> dangerous.  One quick peek without adequate protection, and your retina
> is fried!
>
> : - Why do iron electrodes not work (it only sparks slightly) ?
>
> You should be able to make an iron/carbon arc lamp work.  You could
> probably make an iron/iron lamp work, too, if you could get it started.
> A welder does this, by the way.  The trick is to have a huge inductor
> built into the welder unit, to provide a massive stabilizing effect on
> arc current.  The Carbon is in powdered form, and is a poor heat conductor
> in that form.  Therefore, it boils off a bit when the ends touch, and
> easily starts the plasma.  If you could make the iron electrodes have a
> similar low thermal conductivity, you could make an iron arc lamp start
> as easily as a carbon arc.
>
>



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New Jepson Cut-off saw
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 04:42:52 -0700
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desuint@aol.com (DESUINT) wrote:

>Has anyone out there used the new Jepson cut-off saw with the metal blade?
> I am thinking of purchasing one and would like to know if it is faster,
>more accurate, and can handle heavier material than an abrasive cut-off
>saw.  Any information would be appreciated.

I am not sure if this is what I have or not. I started out with a
standard abrasive saw but got really frustrated with the lack of
accuracy. The dry cutoff saw (using a carbide tipped blade) was a nice
compromise between the chop saw and a more expensive cold cut saw.
(hope I have all these terms right). 
Yes, it is faster. I wouldn't put the main advantage as speed though.
I would use it for the accuracy.
It could probably handle heavier material although I haven't tried it.
Since the carbide teeth are the only parts in contact with the
material, there is nowhere near the frictional resistance in deeper
cuts. Also the blade is driven by a 2:1 reduction gear giving more
uumph.

Here is the catch .... watch what you do when you use it !!!!!!!!!!
I had a piece of 3/16 rod turn on me from insufficient clamping (talk
about careless oversight). The result was a virtually destroyed saw
blade. Considering the cost of the blade, that hurts big time !

Hope this helps

Jens 


From cabago@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 00:01:04 GMT
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C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:


>I have three questions:

>- How can I feed metal into the arc without disrupting the arc so that it melts ?

Use the copper clad carbon rods at about a 60 degree angle to one
another.  They will project an arc past the intersection point of
their centerlines.  It looks almost like a torch flame.  I dont know
exactly why this works, I've just used an adjustable carbon arc torch
before and played with the angles.

>- Can I use an inductive ballast rather than a energy-wasting resistance ballast
>  like an electric heater ? Gas-discharge (based on the same principle) 
>  lamps do use them.

The most efficient power supply, if you want to use the carbon arc for
heating or torching, is to power it with a 100% duty cycle welder.
I've only done this with a cheap AC welder.  A DC welder would
probably work also.





From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Why instant reversing?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 21:52:44 GMT
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In "How to Run a Lathe", South Bend has this to say about choosing a motor:

"Capacitor Motors for single phase alternating current are made in
instant reversing, and start-stop reversing types. The instant reversing
type is preferable but the start-stop reversing type is less expensive
and may be used satisfactorily on certain classes of lathe work. This
type of motor has a fairly high starting toque and constant speed. It has
a starting switch but has no commutator to cause radio interference."

Can someone tell me what class of lathe work *needs* an instant
reversing motor? I'm not completely inexperienced in this area, and I
have yet to come up with a situation where I needed to turn the motor
around *RIGHT NOW* instead of, say, disengaging the feed, stopping the
motor and reversing it.

(Besides, just how instant can instant be?)


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling? -Reply
Date: 10 Jun 1996 20:44:08 GMT
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In article <350EB33181610600@gateway.teletech.com>, mss@teletech.com wrote:
...snip The outside of the barrel can be straight octagon,
> tapered octagon, swamped octogon, octagon to round, round.  Every
> thing you need to build a rifle modern to antique firearms can be bought
> at Friendship, In.

If you forge weld up your barrel around the mandrel then how do you get
the octagon exterior without causing your rough barrel "bore" to close up
(become solid)? If it does, whats the point of forge welding it in the
first place?

Now confused
Daryl


From nykwish@msn.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: nykwish@msn.com (T Wish)
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: 12 Jun 96 04:51:13 -0700
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I'd like to know too!  There are some pastes available for stainless 
steel made by a Company called Avesta.  There are also chemical 
formulas (HF, HNO3, Water, and maybe HCl) alluded to in the ASM 
Metals Handbook on Cleaning and Finishing.  Most chemicals supplied 
by vendors are proprietary.  Chemical constituents as those mentioned 
above need ventilation, nuetralizers and plenty of air!  HF of course 
will eat through your skin and has its own precautions.

Tom


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
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Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
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:->   I never thought about this annoying little problem.  Any ideas out there?
:->How about trying something like a chip-breaker notch? Or maybe we need some
:->side rake?  Obviously, the ideal tool wouldn't have these problems.  Must be
:->a ***real*** soft-plastic machinist out there with the definitive answer.

I'm not a plastics machinist, but I've had much the same problem when turning
Delrin rod stock.  The best answer at the time was to rig the shop vac nozzle
as close to the cutting tool as I dared.  With the vac at full suck, the swarf
never got a chance to wrap around.

Pete Brooks



From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.autos.4x4,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Auto Painting
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 23:06:14 -0700
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Thanks for the advice on the compressors, I have tried out the Sears 6HP
direct drive and Cambell Hausfeld 4HP belt drive and decided to buy the
Cambell.

I am now interested in comments on paint guns. There is a 'regular' paint
gun and a HVLP (high volume low pressure) paint gun. The hvlp is more
efficient and more money where I have priced them. I will only do a
minimal amount of painting (I think, maybe a couple of cars a year) and
do not have any idea of what type of paint gun I will need.

The compressor will provide 8.1 cfm @ 40psi, and 6.4 cfm @ 90 psi.

There are different styles like the gravity fed and regular suction paint
guns, as well as touch up, etc.

I am looking for a decent quality, and will appreciate the pros and cons
of any guns you have used or are familiar with.

Thanks, Jeff Trites


From klaas@uniface.nl Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 12 Jun 1996 06:57:11 GMT
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Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>This is not something that I have tried, but I have seen references to
>using a magnet to blow the arc into a crusible....As I remember it was in
>"Procedures in experimental Physics" available as a reprint from Linsay.
I will try to and moreover use an electric welder up to 150 amps.
The latter for safety (you don't have to worry about touching live parts) and
the availability of an inductive ballast. 
I don't know whether a welder provides DC or AC .
I want to attach a graphite crucible on one electrode and a carbon rod as the
other which arcs on the metal to be melted.
Is this a better approach ?

Klaas



From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Any way to re-use plaster
From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (Raymond Frye)
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References: <4p069h$k3j@tofu.alt.net> 
Nick Irias writes:
NI> I want to cast a large number, about 170, of small aluminum parts.
NI> Is there any possibility of re-using a plaster mold for this?  The
NI> parts are scale tank track links, about 3"x1"x1/4", and should have
NI> good parting angles.

-----------
The volume / weight of your pour is small so it's best to have all your
molds made and preheated for one melt.

Gang your parts. It would be better to make 17 molds of 10 parts each or
10 molds of 17...

The quantity is such that either a rubber molds can be used to make
parts that assemble into the molds or wax parts to be assembled prior
to coating with investment. Arrange the parts to make best use of your
equipment.

Since this is scale tank track you may want to add details that allow
casting urethane rubber pads onto each track. This can be done with
reusable molds but a reusable mold/pattern to make all the molds for
all the parts. You only mix one batch that way.

Ray

Oh, and keep us informed on how the project is coming along. Not just
castings but road wheels, drive train, M4, M60, T34....


 * RM 1.3 02229 * It's metal, it moves.....Fun Stuff!


From daveb@iinet.net.au Tue Jun 18 10:30:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: daveb@iinet.net.au (Dave)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:29:17 GMT
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
[snip]
> If you
>run the lamp on DC, then the inductor must be before the rectifier.  On
>DC, the + and - carbons need to be a different size.  The + carbon
>receives electrons, and so runs hotter.  You use a larger carbon there
>to absorb and dissipate the heat better.  Note that the crater in the
>+ carbon is cradling a 20,000+ K plasma, and the UV is catastrophically
>dangerous.  One quick peek without adequate protection, and your retina
>is fried!

 At least one World War II searchlight used a DC carbon arc. The
carbons were the same diameter, but the negative was solid carbon,
while the positive had an iron-powder core.


--  Dave Brooks <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key: finger  daveb@opera.iinet.net.au
                servers daveb@iinet.net.au
    fingerprint 20 8F 95 22 96 D6 1C 0B  3D 4D C3 D4 50 A1 C4 34



From nuke@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nuke@netcom.com (Bill of Lading)
Subject: Turning grooves in faces
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Hello All:

I am currently in the process of turning some brass disks to use as
the ends of some cylindrical RF cavity filters.  The disks are 1/4"
brass, 4" across.  The plans call for a  groove to be turned into one
side of the disk, with an outside diameter of 1 3/8"  and a cross
section of 1/8" square. A friend of mine with some machining
experience made  a tool for me, basically a 1/8" wide flat bit, with
sufficient relief on the bottom to clear the cut groove.  No matter
what I try, however, I get a large amount of chatter and the tool
keeps catching in the work and gouging itself in. The top of the tool
is flat (correct for brass, right?) and the front has about 15 degrees
relief. 

I see such grooves all the time in vacuum equipment and such, so there
must be a good way to do this cut. Am I on the right track?

Other factors: The brass is quite a hard brass. It was cut on a band
saw, but only with a great amount of pressure on the blade. This same
band saw went through steel like butter both before and after we had
cut the brass. We cut the brass into octagons, drilled a hole in the
center and mounted it in the 3-jaw chuck with a little home-made
mandrel comprising two pieces of steel rod with holes in them and a
nut, washer and bolt. Turining down the outer diameter of the disks
proceeded smoothly, even given the irregular starting shape. 

If someone could provide some insight, this rank amateur (obviously,
right?) would most appreciate it. 

Thanks,
Bill


-- 
   (The above information is NOT TRUE; it is merely a harmless joke).
                      "It's VMS! Soylent NT is VMS!"
nuke@netcom.com                                           bmocweN lliB


From jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Jones <jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Sender: news@cf.ac.uk (USENET News System)
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 12:41:47 GMT
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cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com> wrote:


>
> Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set 
> and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please 
>explain to me how they work?

You can see a video of how to use a centerfinder at the MIT machine tools 
site. It's always helpful to *see* someone actually use one.


Sorry I don't know how to make it a proper clickable url.

http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/mill/intro.html

Mike Jones




From shockey@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 20:17:01 -0700
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In article <4pkits$hqu@gazette.engr.sgi.com> cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
>Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
>Date: 11 Jun 1996 19:54:36 GMT


>Ah, but wait ... won't the backlash in the drive train
>completely alter the tool's position? That's what I didn't understand
>the first time through. Backlash.


With any luck, it'll all get gathered up and come together at 
the same time both coming and going. Tapped a lot of holes, 
both blind and otherwise, and tons of slack and lash have never 
broken a tap, yet. I have managed to figger out plenty of other 
ways to break taps, thank you. 

I haven't had the pleasure of running a Hardinge Chucker; but, 
if Ed would like me to come on down to So. Calif., I can show 
him how to break taps on it, too. <g> 



--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>
"Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. 
Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read anyway."	
		--Groucho Marx


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 11:05:40 GMT
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In message <4pi5fc$4ld@gazette.engr.sgi.com> -
cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)10 Jun 1996 21:52:44 GMT
writes:
:->Can someone tell me what class of lathe work *needs* an instant
:->reversing motor? I'm not completely inexperienced in this area, and I
:->have yet to come up with a situation where I needed to turn the motor
:->around *RIGHT NOW* instead of, say, disengaging the feed, stopping the
:->motor and reversing it.
:->

Possibly threading, with either a die or a tap held by the tailstock.

:->(Besides, just how instant can instant be?)

I don't have any exact figures, but it's darn fast, less than 1 second
I'd say.  The garage I used to work at had a carwash with 3' dia x 4'
high side brushes, run by 5HP instant reverse gearmotors. When they
changed direction, the 'snap' of the brush would throw water about 100
feet!

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 09:38:46 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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Bruce Conner wrote:
> 
> You have me pegged.  Yes, the whole point is not so much to have the
> finished product as to MAKE the thing.  Price is a minor consideration.

Sort of thought that was what we were here (hobby) for...

> "Money is no object.  I have no money!"

I know the feeling... 

> I have a copy of the Howe volumes available to me through a library and
> they should be here in a few days.  I actually found them in a bookstore
> last fall and didn't buy them and when I went back they were gone!  Arrg!

Sure glad you found them...  Kee[p your eyes ope for your own copies.
 
> Reaming it with a square reamer and doing the rifling the old fashioned
> way should be amusing.  Plenty of tinkering to take my mind off things.
> The references I have found so far make it clear that this can be done
> with "primative" tools.  Fun Fun Fun!

Just got an email from a man who agreed andd was rifling his own 
barrels.  He started with shotout machinegun barrels.  Hope he contacts 
you...

> 
> Good to see there is someone else out there who does things for the love
> of it.  No money in it, but that's not why I'm doing it.

If it was for money, I sure as heck wouldn't have bought the lathe, 
mill/drill, etc....  That's my tobacco, whiskey, and wild women money!!!
I don't have a pickup, bass boat, or what-have-you...

I think that I wish to build an engine(s).  I've started a Stuart 10H 
(3/4" bore).

Have fun and good luck with your barrel(s)


> 
> Bruce Conner
> bconner@cybercom.net


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 11 Jun 1996 04:52:10 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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>If you unscrew the valve from the cylinder you can make absolutely
>sure they're empty. Naturally you should check the valve is open (and
>clear of gunge) before you try unscrewing it. 

I was taught always to crack the valve on the cylinder to blow out just 
such grunge before attaching the regulator.
rhg


>cracking the valve open, chain the cylinder into your stand first,
>have the valve pointing upwards and do it outdoors.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB a 4", 3-jaw lathe chuck
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:03:45 -0700
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I'd like to buy a 4", 3-jaw and/or a 4" 4-jaw lathe chuck.
1.5"-8tpi preferred.  Others welcome, I'll make an adapter.

Paul in AJ AZ


From cabago@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Spring pin and dowel pin tolerances
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 20:18:35 GMT
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I need to pin a joint with a small (1/16" to 3/32") pin.  My plan is
to have one piece bored so that it has a loose fit on the pin and can
rotate freely.  The other piece needs to be a tight enough fit that
the pin doesnt come loose.	

Is there a rule of thumb regarding how much a hole should be
undersized for spring pins vs dowel pins?  Also, is lock-tite required
with dowel pins or are they typically just a friction fit?

thanks in advance for any info



From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to find: Structural analysis/design program?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 15:31:48 -0400
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     Try COSMIC at the university of Georgia in Atlanta. Last phone
I had for them was 404/542-3265 (much of area code 404 is now 770).
      Request their software catalog  -- over 1000 programs from NASA --
(of course some may need to be ported to your environment) -- something
may be ideal for your needs.
      Otherwise you really want a top end CAD/CAM system with FEA
capabilities.

Cliff Huprich
CAE/CAD/CAM Systems & Applications Engineer/Programmer


From rabarker@shore.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rabarker@shore.net (robert a barker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spring pin and dowel pin tolerances
Date: 11 Jun 1996 21:33:10 GMT
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In article <4phvu2$66h@tofu.alt.net>, cabago@netcom.com says...
>
>I need to pin a joint with a small (1/16" to 3/32") pin.  My plan is
>to have one piece bored so that it has a loose fit on the pin and can
>rotate freely.  The other piece needs to be a tight enough fit that
>the pin doesnt come loose.      
>
>Is there a rule of thumb regarding how much a hole should be
>undersized for spring pins vs dowel pins?  Also, is lock-tite required
>with dowel pins or are they typically just a friction fit?
>
>thanks in advance for any info
>
I would think a dowell pin would be preferable if one part is to rotate.
The fit of the dowell pin depends somewhat on the material of the 
part.But for the size of pin you want to use,I would have a .0005 to .001
interference for *most* steels and .0015 to .002 for *most* non-ferrous.
I would not use loctite under the conditions I have specified.

Hope this helps.

Bob Barker



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re Gun Barrel Drilling
Date: 10 Jun 1996 20:37:21 GMT
Organization: bnr
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In article <bconner-0906962014490001@dial4-17.cybercom.net>,
bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) wrote:

> In article <walter.10.0000BCA3@walter.airtime.co.uk>,
> walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (walter) wrote:
> 
> > Gun Barrels are bored with a D bit, unlike twist drills they dont
wander off 
> > center. Damascus Steel Barrels are made from thin strips of alternating 
> > wrought Iron and Mild Steel forge welded together hammered out and folded 
> > several times, then hammered into a 1/4 inch strip, then twisted and
hammered 
> > square again, then forge welded around a mandrel undersize, then bored out 
> > with a D bit, rifled if needed. The outside is then turned to sixe and the 
> > etched with acid to highlight the Damascene, and then browned NOT BLUED.
> > 
> > Walter
> 
> Good stuff on the Damascus process. :')  Do you happen to know if there is
> a book or other source that describes the various ways to fold the
> laminate to get the various types of patterns?  I have seen some amazing
> looking patterns which were obviously not there by accident, the nicest
> one being something that looked like square spirals with an occasional
> band of something else going around the barrel.  Beautiful stuff, it would
> be a pity if the secrets to this were lost.
> 

If anybody doesn't know what pattern welding looks like check out;

http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/guild/

Then scroll down the page. Well, it blew me away

Cheers
Daryl


From bellas@tti.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pete Bellas <bellas@tti.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
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Robert Galloway wrote:
>  Breaths there a machinist with soul so dead he hasn't at
> least ruminated about converting some of the cylinders of a
> multi-cylinder engine for use as a self powered air compressor?  How
> about one bank of a V8?

Actually this is fairly standard. Take a look in the box of any of the 
trailer portable rigs and you will find most likely a small or big 
block v8 with one bank converted to pump air. Dodge 318s seem to be 
particularly popular.

			-Pete-


From cabago@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears Compressors
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 20:38:03 GMT
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kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B) wrote:



>Now 15A x 115V gets  1.73kVA.  If I assume  a .9 power factor
>(probably generous for single phase motor, even with  a run capacitor)
>thats just 1.55 k W...assuming 90% effiency (again, probably generous)
>thats  1.4 kW mechanical, or just  1.87 HP!!.  Even a "perfect" 15A
>motor could only make 2.3 HP at 115V!!

The fine print usually says "peak horsepower".  I think by peak, they
mean the power produced during the 10 seconds between the time the
motor is overloaded and the circuit breaker trips.  During that time,
the motor is drawing somewhere around 30 amps and may even be
producing the 3 HP.

Technically, they arent lying, since the motor can put out a 3HP burst
of power for a few seconds.  Of course you can't use a 9 second burst
of power with an air compressor - the compressor motor has a longer on
cycle.  But the tool manufacturers only said you had a motor capable
of 3HP peak.  They never said you could actually use the horsepower.

Too bad you cant buy these tools with confederate dollars.  Its real
money, you just cant spend it.



From shockey@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: 4 Jun 1996 14:44:01 -0700
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In article <31B37B59.5EC8@Litronic.com> Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com> writes:
>From: Tom kane <Tom.Kane@Litronic.com>
>Subject: Books on Welding
>Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 16:55:05 -0700

>Can anyone give my the names on some good welding books?


http://www.amweld.org/books.html



--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From walter@physics7.berkeley.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walter@physics7.berkeley.edu (Walter K. Stockwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 21:00:32 GMT
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If it's a big leak, you can use "Snoop" (basically soapy water.)  The idea
is you *pressurize* your vacuum system to a few psi, then dab the snoop over
all the likely places, like your joints and welds.  Then look for bubbles
to form.  

-- 
That bird was my bird --	__
	or some vile copy.     {^^}              Walter Stockwell
				\ \              walter@physics.berkeley.edu
				{  -}


From friendr@freenet.macatawa Tue Jun 18 10:30:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bowen <friendr@freenet.macatawa>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Manual Aluminum Molding
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 11:29:28 -0700
Organization: Hope College
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I need advice and info. to design tooling and hand mold an Aluminum prop
spinner for a RC model.  My idea is to cut an outside mold into a
1 1/2 inch steel dowell for the outside shape and cut a plunger for 
the inside shape.  The spinner would be thin at the nose and thicker at 
the base which can be machined after molding to accept a base part as 
required.  That is if it stays in the mold on seperation.  This could be
assured by a thick washer attached to the mold with neg. draft to
hold it on initial separation,followed by removal of the washer item.

QUESTIONS:
A.   which alloy?        B.   what mold release?

C.  What temp?  (intend to soak total setup incl Al to 300 or so)

D.  Can pressing of this small setup be done in a vice>

E.   I plan to polish the mold to mirrow finish!  Good or Bad?

F.   What about diferences in coef. of expansion?

 G.   Am i nuts thinking it can be done?  If so, why not wheel rims,
  car frames etc,etc.  The big guys do it, why cain't we amateurs.
It sure presents some interesting machine work.
All replies welcome.  Post or e-Mail me at friendr@freenet.macatawa.org



From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 20:49:01 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Lines: 30
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John Dammeyer (johnd@islandnet.com) wrote:
: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) wrote:

: >     Can any of you tell me how to find the leak in a
: >     vacuum chamber?   It could be the various fittings,
: >     or it could be my welding.....                    
: >                                         David Ide

     The best leak testing that I know of for finding a leak is using
a helium leak detector.  You connect up the leak detector which is 
pumped down using a roughing pump and then a diffusion pump.  Attached
to these is a small mass spectrometer that is tuned for helium.  You 
then get a tank of helium and using a little hose test your fitting 
and welds.  Our leak detector make a humming sound when it detects 
helium.  This works very good for high and ultra-high systems.  For a 
system that is only going to 10^-3 Torr attach a roughing pump with a 
therocouple gauge and using acetone squirt a little on the fittings 
and see if the vacuum pressure rises.

     That is the problem. Is it the fittings or the welding that is 
leaking.  Some time both can be a real pain to find. Best of luck.

     Mike J. 


--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From wlsmith@sandia.gov Tue Jun 18 10:30:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "W. L. Smith" <wlsmith@sandia.gov>
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
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It depends a lot on what vacuum range you are working in.  If you are 
below 1 x 10E-07 torr range you can use a Residual Gas Analyzer (RGA) in 
the chamber which is set to detect helium gas which you spray on the 
outside of the chamber at joints and fittings (very expensive).  If you 
are in the 1 x 10E-06 torr to 10E-01 torr range and you are using a 
thermocouple gauge to read the pressure, you can squirt alcohol or 
acetone on the joints and fittings (one at a time) and watch for a rise 
on the gauge as the high vapor pressure expands through the leak.  If 
you cannot use either of these methods, you can sometimes put a slight 
(<2 psi) overpressure in the chamber and squirt a soapy water mixture 
around the joints and fittings to look for bubbles.  Last option - make 
the room quiet and listen very carefully.

Good luck ... Will  




From 74106.35@compuserve.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 74106.35@compuserve.com (Ed Chejlava)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Prazzi Lathes
Date: 10 Jun 1996 22:42:00 GMT
Organization: Cirrus Logic
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In message <4pfnh3$d8h@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> - jmstuart@ix.netcom.com writes:

:>
:>mail11073@pop.net (JD) wrote:
:>
:>>Does anyone have experience with Prazzi lathes ?  I am new to the
:>>hobby and would like something small to aid me in the restoration of a
:>>60's Chevy auto. 
:>
:>The Prazi is a good lathe, but is a little cumbersome to setup and
:>adjust.  I have one at my business.  $500 is a steal.  
:>
:>This lathe is too small for your application.  I do not think that you
:>will be satisfied with it.  The one at my business works on parts that
:>are under 1/8 inch.  
:>
:>J. M. Stuart
:>
:>Engineer / Inventor / Patentee
:>
:>
:>
:>
I have a Prazi 5x12" lathe... haven't used it for much since I've gotten it, 
but I think I agree that it will be too small for car-stuff.   

I also have the milling head attachment and haven't been very satisfied with 
that since the block that conencts the milling head to the lathe is aluminum 
with several adjustments in it...ends ub being way too flexible for any 
serious cutting (i.e. I end up taking LOTS of 10 thousands passes since 
anything thicker makes the whole setup shimmy alot.)  Currently am debating 
whether I should plunk down the 1200 for the Prazi milling table or should I 
just 'store' the milling head and buy a 'lower precision' milling/drilling 
machine such as the Jet?  

(One other annoyance with the Prazi is that the lead screw is metric while 
the cross slides and the milling head travel are in english...???)

Ed C.

When I grow up, I want to be an HVAC guy.  

..Any job where duct tape is the CORRECT tool has to be great.



From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 11:45:31 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 12
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References: <4pi5fc$4ld@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev), the following was
written:
> Can someone tell me what class of lathe work *needs* an instant
> reversing motor?

Tapping or chasing threads with a Die.

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu (COUGER GORDON)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 12 Jun 1996 13:28:33 GMT
Organization: Oklahoma State University
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In article <4plpo7$g51@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak  <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>>This is not something that I have tried, but I have seen references to
>>using a magnet to blow the arc into a crusible....As I remember it was in
>>"Procedures in experimental Physics" available as a reprint from Linsay.

I recall drawings of arc furnaces that only used one carbon electrode and the
melt material for the other. The electode came in from the top and the arc was
formed by plunging it into the metal and with drawing it slightly.

A good welder would be a good source of power.

Gordon

Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu


From sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sab@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Message-ID: <1996Jun10.090234.7371@tower>
Date: 10 Jun 96 09:02:34 -0500
References: <4pc6ba$iie@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
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In article <4pc6ba$iie@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>, Billwat@ix.netcom.com (Bill Watson) writes:
> I am tired of using a hand saw for my occasional metal projects.  Any one have 
> any feed back on the grizzly 4x6 saw for $199 or any reccomendations? It will 
> be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.
> 
> Bill Watson

I invested in the < $200 Harbor Freight (uses 64.5" x 0.5" blades).  Once
I added a shelf to stiffen the legs, I've been reasonably pleased.  I've
had it for 4 years without problems, it cuts reasonably accurately, and
will (given enough time), slice thru 4" x 6" blocks of steel (the bases
for the dies on my power hammer).  Frankly, I don't see how I ran my
shop before I had it (but then I feel the same way about the Bader, the
50lb Little Giant, the swage blocks.... (g) ).

Steve Bloom (IronFlower Forge)


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 11 Jun 1996 16:31:43 GMT
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By index table I assume you mean an indexing fixture.

Why not purchase a rotary table with the indexing add-ons?
They are not too much more than just the table alone.  The
only fault with them is that all of the indexing heads
are set up for a 40:1 gear ratio and most of the
rotary tables are 90:1. This means that the published tables
for indexing are not of much use.

If I could only have one, it would be the rotary table
so I could cut arcs in the mill.

Much of your indexing can probably be done with either
the square/hex blocks that hold C-5 collets or a 'spin-index'
fixture which holds C-5 collets and can be indexed as fine as
one degree.  Both are much less expensive than an indexing head

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 09:32:45 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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CC: KEVIN CLOVER I/N <kaclover@ix.netcom.com>,
	MR RICHARD B HYDE <XRKF89A@prodigy.com>

Michael Jones wrote:
> 
> cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set
> > and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please
> >explain to me how they work?
> 
> You can see a video of how to use a centerfinder at the MIT machine tools
> site. It's always helpful to *see* someone actually use one.
> 
> Sorry I don't know how to make it a proper clickable url.
> 
> http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/mill/intro.html
> 
> Mike Jones

Mike it came out clickable...  Looked like it could be a real
fantastic net page.  I couldn't view the video.  Netscape says
I need a plugin viewing software.  I'll try one of these days.

Thanks for the address...

Paul in AJ AZ


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: 11 Jun 1996 16:44:49 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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The 4X6" horizontal bandsaw can be purchased from many
sources.  I'd elect to purchase one from the vendor
with the lowest price (including shipping).

Then, before I used the saw, I would open the gearbox
and remove all of the lube and all of the grit and
iron filings you will find inside.  Really clean it 
out as this will affect the life of the saw.

Replace the lubricant with one of the synthetic
lubes meant for worm gears / automotive rearends.
I actually use Red Line's MTF (Manual Transmission
Fluid) which is thin but works really well in this
application.  What I mean by that is that I no longer
find metal shavings in the lube and the saw still works
after quite a bit of use.  I am not a lubrication expert
however.

Then, for your first cutting task, slice up four pieces
of 2" angle iron to just fit around the bottom of the 
sheet metal legs.  Weld them into a frame, add two wheels
to the back corners and then bolt the frame onto the bottom
of the saw legs.  This will prevent the legs from collapsing
when you attempt to move it on the supplied and grossly inadequate 
plastic wheels and then run into a small crack in the shop floor.

Next, go down to the hardware store and purchase a barn door
handle and bolt it to the front saw leg in place of the bent
barstock handle that will bend the front legs the first time
you get the handle out of position.

The only caveat is that the saw is very top heavy so you want
to hold on to the new handle with a firm grip and hold onto
the top of the saw frame with your other hand whenever you
move it.  Never attempt to move the saw with the frame in the
upright position.  Unless you work on a soft rubber floor.

Hope this helps,

Mike Rehmus



From rparker7@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rparker7@ix.netcom.com (Roy Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling? -Reply
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 01:04:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <31bcc57c.1802034@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
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On 10 Jun 1996 20:44:08 GMT, darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) wrote:

>In article <350EB33181610600@gateway.teletech.com>, mss@teletech.com wrote:
>...snip The outside of the barrel can be straight octagon,
>> tapered octagon, swamped octogon, octagon to round, round.  Every
>> thing you need to build a rifle modern to antique firearms can be bought
>> at Friendship, In.
>
>If you forge weld up your barrel around the mandrel then how do you get
>the octagon exterior without causing your rough barrel "bore" to close up
>(become solid)? If it does, whats the point of forge welding it in the
>first place?

The flats are filed onto the barrel.  You have a (semi) round barrel,
and just file away everything that is not octagon.  Kinda like making
a statue, you start with a block of stone, and chip away everything
but the statue.  Truth!  That's how they made them.  Most of the
barrel makers straightened the barrels (via bending or hammer blows)
after the bore was reamed, but before rifling.

Check out the various Books of Buckskinning for more info.

Roy

Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto welding . . .
Date: 11 Jun 1996 16:53:43 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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There is no 'correct answer to that one because the
thickness of the metal more or less determines the
amount of heat you need.

BTW, if you are thinking of using MIG to weld the
automotive skin, make certain you try before you buy.

MIG welds tend to be too hard and the welds crack
when you attempt to surface finish them.  The minimum
strength wire I have been able to find is 60,000 psi
and what you really need is something around 30,000-35,000
psi and little or no silicon content.  That's why
old coat hangers and a torch make such a good hammer welding
setup.

On the other hand, if you are going to weld structural
parts or make welds that can be completely covered by
other material or are on the backside of a structure
like a doorskin welded to a door frame, then a MIG is
a good tool.

I use a 90 amp max rig for body metal and normally
have to turn down the heat to prevent burn-through.
If you have the $, get a unit that has an automatic
spot weld and stitch weld facility built in.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From cwthomas@pop.erols.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB USED WORKING MIG WELDER.
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 21:31:04 -0700
Organization: Erols Internet Services
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HI;

 Does anyone have a used MIG welder theye'd like to sell? ID so please 
email me with price and details.


 Thanks;

 C.W. Thomas


From xeno357@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xeno357@ix.netcom.com(Max ben-Aaron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 03:46:44 GMT
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High their:

How about turning the problem on its head: Try pressurising the system
with air and looking for leaks with the old soapy water trick (looking
for bubbles)?

Would this work?

Max ben-Aaron

====================================================================

In <4oirf1$lv8@news.dgsys.com> dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) writes: 
>
>     Can any of you tell me how to find the leak in a
>     vacuum chamber?   It could be the various fittings,
>     or it could be my welding.....                    
>                                         David Ide



From bd932@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bd932@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Anita Albert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Air Compressors for sale - 500 item garage sale
Date: 11 Jun 1996 00:23:42 GMT
Organization: National Capital Freenet, Ottawa, Canada
Lines: 11
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500 item sale - 167 Brodeur Street, Hull, Quebec, 15 Jun (Sat), 
9-4 pm.  Call Fred at 824-8126 for infor.

CBS, scanners, mechanic tools, grinders, snow blower and much
much more.
Also mechanics chest of drawers.  Tool names are makita, crafts-
man, snap-on-tools.  Welding equipment, workbench, miter saw,
and much morre.
--
Craft crazy


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 13:41:15 -0400
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   P.S. -- use an air blast on the cutting area to break up & remove the
chips. 
Cliff Huprich


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 11 Jun 1996 13:42:02 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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  Carbon steel has one problem -- it rusts. Sharp edges of course are
most prone to rust & corrosion. Taps that hence become dull develop
higher cutting forces, break, and/or produce a bad thread. There is also
a possible chemical reaction between the material being tapped and
the tool which is less with HSS.

Cliff Huprich


From andrew_forte@mc.xerox.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
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From: andrew_forte@mc.xerox.com (Andrew B. Forte)
Subject: Re: Sears Compressors
Message-ID: <1996Jun10.170737.4031@news.wrc.xerox.com>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 17:14:02 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29593 rec.autos.tech:173597 rec.autos.4x4:46974

I have a 5 year old Sears compressor that is doing beautifully.  It is
5hp, 30 gal.  It has sand-blasted and painted two station wagons.  It
regularly gets used for an air pump and sheet metal shears.

I have only had one complaint, it needs "more power".  (grunt, grunt,
grunt)  I can not get the necessary psi and cfm out of it to run a
1/2" drive Ingersol Rand air gun.  It can't get enough air to take
lugnuts off a car.

I would only trade it for a bigger Craftsman compressor.

					Andrew
disclaimer:
	These views are mine and not my employers.

<76257.3632@compuserve.com> wrote:


>     I had a 3 h.p. 20 (or was it 30) gal. Sears Compressor.  Cost: $300 or so on sale.  It committed suicide
>aafter only a few sessions of reasonably hard work followd by an afternoon or two of sand-
>blasting.  (This was not _abuse_ -- the sand wasn't allowed to get into the compressor, all filters were good, etc.;
>it was just a rather wimpy compressor-head, typical of a 2 hp or so unit, with a somewhat larger
>motor.)

>      Obviously, the unit was never designed for serious or strenuous use, though 3 HP should have been
>adequate for the limited hobby-type use I was making.

>    After that experience, I gave up on the "home-shop" type units, picked up a low-time 80-gal 5hp/ two-stage type unit
>from a small auto shop going out of business for $500.   Now I can't even begin to use all the air pressure and volume
>I get.  don't remember the brand, but it's a "major" make, about $1300 new, retail (Quincy, maybe?).


> I wouldn't touch on of the new home-shop  type Sears/Craftsman units again.  Having looked them
>over since, they all seem to have the same "direct-drive",  undersized compressor-head.  If I couldn't 
>pop for the $500 a terrific used one like mine would cost, I'd probably build one with one of the 5 hp
>motors I have laying around and a compressor head (3-5 hp rated) from Harbor Freight.  The tank is no real trick,
>since you're only looking at 150psi in practice.  I've accumulated a couple and they're around, cheap.


>   Hope this helps.




From dpuch@magicnet.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 04:43:51 GMT
Organization: MagicNet, Inc.
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Message-ID: <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm8-21.magicnet.net

I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range.  Anyone out
there have any information.  Thanks.


Dale Puch   e-mail dpuch@magicnet.net   
            HTTP://www.magicnet.net/~dpuch
In Cyberspace NO ONE can hear you SCREEEEAAAAAMMMMMMM



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 11 Jun 1996 06:02:06 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4pjn7u$5s9@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <31b4a25b.797071@news.ptd.net> <4p9k41$377@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31b8d894.688429@news.ptd.net> <xlch58DsovoD.MtD@netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

>
>: If its true that more is better than the V8 should be just about
>: right, but a 12 cycl Jaguar would be perfect. hehehe
>: >
>: >rhg 
>: >
>
>Its not the number of jugs, its the displacement (or more probably total 
>swept volume) I believe the Jag is only a 305cid or so.    

I don't think he was thinking about the capacity 8-)

rhg


From iann@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ian Novinger <iann@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.autos.4x4,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Painting
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 23:50:13 -0400
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To: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.autos.4x4:46979 rec.crafts.metalworking:29596

Jeffrey R. Trites wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the advice on the compressors, I have tried out the Sears 6HP
> direct drive and Cambell Hausfeld 4HP belt drive and decided to buy the
> Cambell.
> 
I just got the Cambell myself, I love it so far the only things it dosen't keep up 
with too well so far is a sand blaster, and my cut off wheel.

> I am now interested in comments on paint guns. There is a 'regular' paint
> gun and a HVLP (high volume low pressure) paint gun. The hvlp is more
> efficient and more money where I have priced them. I will only do a
> minimal amount of painting (I think, maybe a couple of cars a year) and
> do not have any idea of what type of paint gun I will need.
I just got a gravity feed one to replace my siphion on, and WOW what a difference. 
 I was talkin with the guy at the body shop supply store, and he said the reason 
the gravithy feed ones work better with home type compressors is that most of them 
don't have enough umph (sp) to get the siphion going.  BTW I paid 105$ for it. If 
you want the brand let me know and I will look out in the shop.
> 
> The compressor will provide 8.1 cfm @ 40psi, and 6.4 cfm @ 90 psi.
> 
> There are different styles like the gravity fed and regular suction paint
> guns, as well as touch up, etc.
See above
> 
> I am looking for a decent quality, and will appreciate the pros and cons
> of any guns you have used or are familiar with.
> 
> Thanks, Jeff Trites

Talk to ya later
Ian
-- 
If it were not for time its self, I would not have any

Be sure to check this one out
http://www.netcom.com/~iann


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 17:02:24 GMT
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The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are happy
with theirs. Also, if I do get one, is the 5400 model with the extra y axis
travel worth the extra $125? Call me paranoid, but I just don't trust
the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill
for about $500 in the Willamette valley of Oregon, I would probably want that 
instead.
Thanks


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 10 Jun 1996 22:26:45 -0700
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Chris Kantarjiev (cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com) wrote:
: Can someone tell me what class of lathe work *needs* an instant
: reversing motor? I'm not completely inexperienced in this area, and I
	(SNIP)
	--Well, my Hardinge Chucker has that feature and it's damned 
handy when I have to tap a whole bunch of identical parts. I just put on 
the flood lubricant, put it in a low speed range, feed in with the right 
hand and reverse direction instantly at the correct moment with the left 
hand on the reversing lever. Cost-effective, it is...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From quartlow@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: quartlow@netcom.com (Len Turnbow)
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Message-ID: <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line (408 261-4700 guest)
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Greg Dermer (gdermer@ichips.intel.com) wrote:
: lee.ward@corpsoft.com (LEE WARD) writes:

: >I found 2 Oxygen Tanks that are 4x17 and were used apparently for
: >medical reasons,,My question is do these tanks have any useful value in
: >Welding or Metalwork somehow??
: >                              Thanks!
: >                                    Lee Ward
: >                                          We salvage an recycle
: >anything!!


: I use such a medical cylinder with an MC acetylene cylinder for a portable
: welding/brazing/(very brief) cutting setup.

: I had the welding supply house replace the medical style valve with a 
: conventional
: style and of course they hydro tested it before filling.  
: I told 'em I wanted
: welding grade O2.  When I went to pick it up, they had filled it with 
: medical
: grade, and wanted to charge me medical prices. 

(Snip)

O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
-- 
                                             quartlow@netcom.com


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.physics
Subject: Re: Helium Stockpiles (Was: What is this material from soldering iron.)
Date: 13 Jun 1996 00:04:26 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
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References: <4og9v9$eve@zoom2.telepath.com> <4ohnr4$g3a@news1.io.org> <4p5smh$ao6@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <31B87F25.45C8@nt.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:29600 sci.physics:177440

In article <31B87F25.45C8@nt.com>,
J. Michael Thompson <Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com> wrote:
>You are (unfortunately) quite correct. Now they are after the Helium stockpile. 
>They want to take the world's only commercial-scale source of this very useful 
>material and just vent it to the atmosphere. Why? Because it makes a great 
>sound bite to say: "We aren't going to fight any more wars with zeppelins."

Here's some more information from the 8 Dec 95 issue of
Bob Park's "What's New" (http://www.aps.org/WN/wn120895.html)

1. APS CALLS FOR HELIUM CONSERVATION! HOT AIR IS NO SUBSTITUTE.

   At its 19 Nov 1995 meeting, the elected Council of the American
   Physical Society adopted a strongly worded statement calling for
   measures to "conserve and enhance the nation's helium reserves." The
   action was prompted by pending legislation that would require the
   nation's helium reserves to be sold off by 2015. In the rush to
   downsize government, the helium program has become a metaphor for
   "boondoggle" among politicians who associate it with blimps and party
   balloons. There is scant awareness of helium's growing cryogenic uses
   -- or its rapid depletion. It's a constituent of natural gas from a
   few "helium-rich" fields in the US. Less than half of the helium is
   needed to meet current demand; the rest is wasted. These fields are
   expected to be depleted in 20 years -- or about when the selloff of
   the federal reserve is completed.

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)



From Dmills@abcde.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mills <Dmills@abcde.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 96 19:59:21 GMT
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In article <4pl2u0$iud@opera.iinet.net.au> daveb@iinet.net.au "Dave" writes:

>
> At least one World War II searchlight used a DC carbon arc. The
>carbons were the same diameter, but the negative was solid carbon,
>while the positive had an iron-powder core.

All carbon arc lamphouses for cine projectors used DC as the flicker would 
have mixed with the second harmonic of the 48hz shutter frequency to give
100 - 96hz = 4hz. This would have been quite visible.
The DC was (and sometimes still is) produced by a saturatable reactor 
driving a copper oxide rectifier and a huge bank of capacitors.
The reason for the different diamerers of the electrodes is that a pit
forms in the positive one and it is from here (not from the arc) that most
of the light is emmitted.
-- 
********************************************************
* And on the first day the lord said...... *           *
*......Lx1, Go! and there was light!       * Dan Mills *
********************************************************
DMX-512 FAQ : ftp.webcom.com/pub1/lightsrc/ftp/dmx512fq.txt


From stpowel@ibm.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stpowel@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Bandsaw
Date: 11 Jun 1996 18:40:37 GMT
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I need a bandsaw with the ability to cut metal and wood, and would appreciate
any advice on what brand to buy, which blade to use, etc...  Also, if anyone is
interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.


From david@hoskin.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 07:07:33 +0100
Organization: Home
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Not strictly engineering, but many of us use computers to prepare
drawings...
Recently I bought a used HP 7475A -but without any documentation.  I am
assured that it works, but so far not for me!
I am probably doing something daft, but it doesn't help when you don't
know what all the buttons are for.  Can anyone tell me what the DIP
switch settings are?  What state the machine should be in when info is
sent to it? (I have discovered for example that the buttons P1 and P2
move the pen to opposite corners of the page -but which is the 'normal'
one?).  I'm using it with Windows 3.11.  I'm fairly sure the cable is
OK.  Print Manager shows that the data has been sent successfully, but
the plotter just sits there blinking the orange error light at me.  It
looks as if its either waiting for something else, or can't make sense
of the data because the RS232 protocol settings are wrong.  Can anyone
help?
BTW I've tried using both the driver the comes with Windows and the one
supplied as part of the AutoSketch programme, but with similar results.
--                    
Regards,              **************************************************
David Hoskin          The business of finding fault is very easy: that
East Yorkshire, UK    of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
                      **************************************************


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 17:26:36 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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Aha. I am enlightened. Thanks, all.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rockwell vertical mills?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 17:30:42 GMT
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I've been searching, off and on, for a small mill for my new shop. 
Much as I'd love to have one, I can't fit a full-sized Bridgeport. I've
been looking for something like a Clausing 8520 or 8530. There
seem to be lots of them on the east coast, but none out in California.

Someone just pointed me at a Rockwell 21-200 that might well do the
job; the size and weight are about right, and the price of $1250
is in the ballpark (though I haven't yet found out what tooling
is included). It's even in California, albeit in SoCal - 500 miles
is a lot easier to deal with than 3000. 

I don't know anything about these machines - anyone got experience
with them they'd care to relate?

Thanks a lot.


From avalon8@use.pipeline.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: avalon8@usa.pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sears lathes, 109. series
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 04:20:01 GMT
Organization: Avalon Ironworkes
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you@somehost.somedomain (Your Name Here) wrote:

>Clausing Service Center was recommended to another inquirer about
> a 109. series Sears lathe. Clausing's phone is (219) 533-0371, but 
>the address is Goshen, Indiana.  They told me that the 109. 
>lathes were all made by AA Mfg. and AA is out of business, so
> no spare parts are available.  That leaves me looking for a headstock
>spindle - apparently 14mm in dia, but threaded US 1/2 inch for the 
>3-jaw chuck and faceplates I picked up with the lathe (mine is
>109.21270).  I happened on some 14mm stock - a shaft in a scrapped 
>computer printer, of all things, installed a length of it, and cut 
>the thread as well as I could.  Not very well, apparently, as the 
>chuck runs out grossly.  I can do some rough turning between centers
>but I haven't brought the machine up to any kind of precision.  It's 
>been fun tinkering, and the price was right!
>             Bill Soule  aka    RRx - The Train Doctor - RRx

Buy 5/8" stock for your 14mm spindle stock. C.R.S. (Cold Roll Steel).
It is customary to use prussian blue on the threads and test fit the
chuck on and off the spindle until the threads are cutting evenly. The
only way you can cut the threads small enough to make the chuck fit
loosly is to hog out too much at a time.  Besides, the fit of the
chuck usually depends upon the parralellism of the back of the chuck
to the flat of the headstock spindle, and not the fit of the threads.
It does not depend on the accuracy of the lathe, but the skill of the
operator. It's a craftsmanship thing, not a equipment thing.



From avalon8@use.pipeline.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: avalon8@usa.pipeline.com (Bill Wyant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 04:40:49 GMT
Organization: Avalon Ironworkes
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


>In "How to Run a Lathe", South Bend has this to say about choosing a motor:

>"Capacitor Motors for single phase alternating current are made in
>instant reversing, and start-stop reversing types. The instant reversing
>type is preferable but the start-stop reversing type is less expensive
>and may be used satisfactorily on certain classes of lathe work. This
>type of motor has a fairly high starting toque and constant speed. It has
>a starting switch but has no commutator to cause radio interference."

>Can someone tell me what class of lathe work *needs* an instant
>reversing motor? I'm not completely inexperienced in this area, and I
>have yet to come up with a situation where I needed to turn the motor
>around *RIGHT NOW* instead of, say, disengaging the feed, stopping the
>motor and reversing it.

>(Besides, just how instant can instant be?)

When you turn a screw thread that is an oddball thread, i.e. 11.5
threads per inch, you cannot use the screw thread gauge on the lathe
to mark where to engage the threading lever for sucessive cuts. In
this case, the only thing you can do is back up the threading tool by
putting the lathe into reverse and backing the tool out of the cut.
That is why you reverse the motor without disengaging the thread feed.




From avalon8@use.pipeline.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: avalon8@usa.pipeline.com (Bill Wyant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 04:48:41 GMT
Organization: Avalon Ironworkes
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Your_Email_Address (Your_Login) wrote:

>Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
>instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
>other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?

Yes.
The high speed steel taps last much longer than regular carbon steel
taps. They will cut a more consistent hole than carbon steel taps as
they don't lose material as readily during use. 



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 19:54:36 GMT
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Ah, but wait ... won't the backlash in the drive train
completely alter the tool's position? That's what I didn't understand
the first time through. Backlash.


From fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:59:14 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 18
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To: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>

william tietz wrote:
> 
> what would be the best to buy first, a index table or a rotary table? i'm
> building my first hit and miss engine and can't aford to buy both at this
> time, but plan to buy both in the future.

I just faced the same problem.  I purchased a rotary table with index plates.
ENCO had one for just under $200 (8 inch).  

But - warning...  I picked mine up in person and had to pass on one because 
it was damaged in shipment.  Even at that I had the better part of one evening
cleaning it up and getting it ready to work.

If I had to do it over again I would get the 6 inch Grizzly with dividing
plates.  Price is about the same.

Bye
Kay R. Fisher


From tlipton@ccnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cracks in 309 SS welds
Date: 11 Jun 1996 02:29:02 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
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wirdweird1@aol.com (Wirdweird1) wrote:
>
> We are experiencing cracking of welds in .060" 309 SS after roll
> planishing the welds.  We are using 309 filler rod with argon purge and
> backfill on an automatic seam welder. The parts are aerospace and the
> cracks, very small, are unacceptable.  Can anybody help. 


  You didn't say what your base materials were. Typically type 309 
filler material is used for joining steels to stainless steels.
If this is the case and you are joining dissimilair materials I would
closely examine the steel. As my friend Hrolthgar says in the following post
you can also go to a low carbon 309 alloy. These are identified with the suffix letter L.
In my career I have seldom had problems with cracks in stainless. the culprit
is usually the culprit is the steel.

    Good luck   TML 



From tlipton@ccnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Template paper
Date: 11 Jun 1996 02:44:19 GMT
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I am looking for a source for commercial template paper.
This paper is used for developing patterns for sheetmetal work. I purchased 
my last roll from a company in Los Angeles. I tried their number and they
seem to be out of business or moved. The company name was
   
   Replica Associates
   6655 East 26th st
   Los angeles Ca 90040
   (213) 685-6248

The paper I need is .030 thick and came on a roll 42 inches wide by approximatly
18 inches in diameter. The color was a buff green, but I have seen it in 
a buff scarlet. The important thing is the thickness and width. Wider is 
okay but narrower is not much good. My need is for one or two rolls depending
on the price. I am okay up to about 250.00 per roll but thats about it. 
  If anyone has information on this company, or works somewhere where they 
use this kind of paper I would appreciate any information I could get.
  Just to save people some time, yes, I have used the Thomas register and talked with
at least 20 paper mfg without sucsess. Drafting and art supply stores were a wash also.


       Thanks in advance  TML 


From xlch58@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: 640,000 Btu's per hour enough for brass and iron?
Message-ID: <xlch58DsrqK7.F5n@netcom.com>
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A friend just aquired a cast iron industrial premix unit(centrifugal 
blower and gas mix unit) with regulator, safety shutoff and burner tip 
The unit was built in the late fifties but looks brand new.  It is a 
Maxon premix #2 unit.  It says it is capable of prodcing 640k Btu's per 
hour.  My friend thinks he wants to sell it to me for $50.  It looks like 
a deal, just add castable refractory and a 55 gallon drum and I've got a 
crucible furnace. I would like to be able to do cast iron though and am 
wondering if this would be sufficient for small melts of cast iron.  I 
assume that it will handle brass since I found notes with the unit that 
indicated it was used to hold temps of 2000F.  Exact notes say it will 
produce 640k btu's per hour when operating with .05"w.c. positive combustion 
chamber pressure and supplied with 1000 btu natural gas at a plant supply 
pressure of 8 to 16 oz.  Are these reasonable numbers for a shop in a 
residential area?  Thanks for any guidance.  He also picked up two 2000f 
thermocouples (BlueM) and a Blue M electric muffle furnace with a cubic 
foot or more internal space for $100.  Some days you get lucky.  I got 
his old 1850F furnace(good for small knives) for $20 though, so it trickles 
down I guess.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bridgeport Spindle
Date: 12 Jun 1996 05:34:06 GMT
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Well, I've gotten that bridgeport J head mounted on my old round-ram
turret mill base.  Still a few problems.

I'vew decided to wait on any more tinkering with the spindle taper runout
until I can figure out whether the bearings are going to blow up or not.
They still feel silky smooth, but I was doing some milling and drilling
at 1750 RPM, and after a half hour, the quill got so hot it was starting
to bind in the housing (it is extremely tight anyway).  The 'nose piece'
which clamps the lower bearing was running about 110 F.  That seems really
hot, but if these are new bearings, do they need to be run-in first?

On the other hand, there was a really different 'feel' with this head as
compared to my old M head.  The M head has a badly worn spline, and tends
to chatter, but the difference seemed to be more than that - a lot more.
I was taking .050" deep cuts with a 1/2" end mill in Aluminum.  This was
about the limit of my M head, before it started vibrating and showing
surface roughness.  The J head took it like it was cutting wax.  I
definitely LIKE it!

Does anyone know if the quill is considered interchangable, or if the
quill is finished to be a matched part to the entire housing?  Why I'm
wondering is that the quill is the most badly butchered part in this
head.  Maybe I should just get a new quill, install my bearings and
spindle in it, and put it into the housing.

This model of the 1 Hp J head has a maximum speed of 2720 RPM.  If I make
up new step pulleys, with a maximum speed of 4250 RPM, say, should I
expect any problems with the spindle bearings?  (I note that variable-speed
J heads go that high.)

What is this thing called?  Is a 1 Hp J head called a 1-J?  Is the 2-J
called that because it has a 2 Hp motor, or are there other differences?

Thanks so much for the information this group has already provided.  It
has been enormously helpful in rebuilding this unit.  If it hadn't been
butchered by the worst idiots I've ever seen the butchery of, it would be
in beautiful working order now.

						Jon



From gtaylor@wincom.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gtaylor@wincom.net (Gord Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Van norman milling machine
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 01:58:33 GMT
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Information on Van norman Duplex milling machines mdl. #20
manufactured around 1920 would be appreciated.
gtaylor@wincom.net



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 11 Jun 1996 05:53:42 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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References: <31b4a25b.797071@news.ptd.net> <4p3a5s$dgv@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4p9k41$377@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31b8d894.688429@news.ptd.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

> I'd also try to find some replacement 
>>catridge type ball valves for a commercial compressor to adapt into my 
>>ersatz head.  If that fails, you could machine your own or try to adapt 
>>check valves.
>
>What exactly are cartridge type ball valve, I guessing that  the check
>valves I have are the same thing,  Small cylinder with a ball and
>spring .... The ones I have are only 3/8 inch, from the sound of the
>last responce that will be too small. How big should I try to makem 
>
>
Some of the better compressors have replacement valves that have the ball 
and the seat in a cartidge with holes just above the ball letting the air 
out to the side.  I think I've seen some with a disk instead of a ball on 
this same design.  The cartridge has two "O" rings on it to seal at the 
level of the seat and at the level of the top of the head.  The air 
passage surounds the center part of the cartidge.  One advantage over an 
unmodified checkvalve is that the valve seat is as close as possible to 
the chamber, minimizing dead space.  The top of the cartidge is a big hex 
to drive with a wrench and the threads directly under the hex secure it 
to the head.  Some have a separate cap with threads and no cap or threads 
on the cartridge.

I hope this gives you something to work on.

rhg



From xlch58@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Message-ID: <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <gdermer.834005004@ichips.intel.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 15:00:05 GMT
Lines: 10
Sender: xlch58@netcom9.netcom.com

Len Turnbow (quartlow@netcom.com) wrote:

: O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
: between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
: Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
: -- 
:                                              quartlow@netcom.com

  Different purities.  Same as gold,  14k is more expensive than 10k.
Welding O2 would have more impurities I suppose than medical.


From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 640,000 Btu's per hour enough for brass and iron?
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 07:52:04 +0100
Organization: Mawson Megadoodle
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In article <xlch58DsrqK7.F5n@netcom.com>, xlch58@netcom.com writes
>A friend just aquired a cast iron industrial premix unit(centrifugal 
>blower and gas mix unit) with regulator, safety shutoff and burner tip 
>The unit was built in the late fifties but looks brand new.  It is a 
>Maxon premix #2 unit.  It says it is capable of prodcing 640k Btu's per 
>hour.  My friend thinks he wants to sell it to me for $50.  It looks like 
>a deal, just add castable refractory and a 55 gallon drum and I've got a 
>crucible furnace. I would like to be able to do cast iron though and am 
>wondering if this would be sufficient for small melts of cast iron.  I 
>assume that it will handle brass since I found notes with the unit that 
>indicated it was used to hold temps of 2000F.  Exact notes say it will 
>produce 640k btu's per hour when operating with .05"w.c. positive combustion 
>chamber pressure and supplied with 1000 btu natural gas at a plant supply 
>pressure of 8 to 16 oz.  Are these reasonable numbers for a shop in a 
>residential area?  Thanks for any guidance.  He also picked up two 2000f 
>thermocouples (BlueM) and a Blue M electric muffle furnace with a cubic 
>foot or more internal space for $100.  Some days you get lucky.  I got 
>his old 1850F furnace(good for small knives) for $20 though, so it trickles 
>down I guess.

Hi,

As a guide, I once had an oil fired iron melting crucible furnace
(Morgan No 5) that would melt 112 lbs of iron at a time. It fuel input
was 330 Kw (5.5 gallons of diesel per hour)

Used to reckon that gliders would circle over it to get the updraught !

Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK 0181-466-5582

<-------------Happiness is a fully ticked off list------------->


From miked@syscon-intl.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike DeMetz <miked@syscon-intl.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 22:47:46 -0700
Organization: syscon-intl
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Check out http://hre.com for their review. I have never heard any 
complaints about the Sherline.


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: 11 Jun 1996 05:59:54 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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Message-ID: <4pjn3q$5q4@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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>Smith compressors make a compressor out of a 429 ford and use one bank
>forr running and the other for compression.   They still make these.  They
>will run a 120 # Jackhammer all day and never get hot.   There is a co
>that used to supply a plan for converting a 429 into a compressor.
>
>Cecil in OK

It seems like such an attractive idea, I'm glad to know that it actually 
works.  A question: Does it matter if the firing order alternates from 
bank to bank?  I looked at the firing order on a number of V8's back in 
the late 50's and found that some alternated banks in the fining 
order and some had sequential cylinders in the same bank firing.  I 
figured the thing would run smoother if every power pulse was 
interspersed with compressor stroke.

rhg



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 11:14:58 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
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"W. L. Smith" <wlsmith@sandia.gov> wrote:

>  Last option - make 
>the room quiet and listen very carefully.

A piece of PVC tubing stuck in your ear (don't tell your mother you
heard it from me!) makes an effective stethiscope here.  Much easier
than getting your head down under the pump plate!  Beware of "seashell
effect" when probing any cavity.

Even water flowing through a cold trap can make enogh noise to mask
sound of a leak.  Hopefully you can pull enough vacuum to find leak
without turning on diffusion pump.

-KF- 






From eisenber@lamar.ColoState.EDU Tue Jun 18 10:30:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eisenber@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Steven Eisenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 11 Jun 1996 14:45:36 -0600
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523
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I am also interested in this kind of information on model jet engines.  
Please forward any help to me as well.  Thanks in advance.

Steve Eisenberg

In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net> dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch) writes:
>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range.  Anyone out
>there have any information.  Thanks.
>
>
>Dale Puch   e-mail dpuch@magicnet.net   
>            HTTP://www.magicnet.net/~dpuch
>In Cyberspace NO ONE can hear you SCREEEEAAAAAMMMMMMM
>




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WindChimes - my kids want to build HELP
Date: 11 Jun 1996 12:33:10 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: tp@iap.net.au

Well, I "designed" the wind chimes I built by measuring a commercial
set.  Both the location of the suspension holes and the length of the
tubes are important.  I made mine out of that cheap hardware store
1" diameter aluminum tubing.  It doesn't sound as good as the 
commercial wind chimes, which use better tubing, but it's okay.  I
also made a set out of 3/4" copper tubing, which sounds better.




From L.Kviz@syd.dwt.CSIRO.AU Tue Jun 18 10:30:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: L.Kviz@syd.dwt.CSIRO.AU (Ladge Kviz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 96 04:43:11 GMT
Organization: CSIRO
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In article <4pi2dg$2pr@agate.berkeley.edu>,
   walter@physics7.berkeley.edu (Walter K. Stockwell) wrote:
>If it's a big leak, you can use "Snoop" (basically soapy water.)  The idea
>is you *pressurize* your vacuum system to a few psi, then dab the snoop over
>all the likely places, like your joints and welds.  Then look for bubbles
>to form.  
>
If its a small leak and you have a vacuum guage connected, you can squirt 
metho (alcohol) onto the suspect joints and welds while watching the vacuum
guage, as you spray onto the leak the alcohol will get into the vacuum and
rapidly evaporate causing  sudden drop on the vacuum guage. of course your
leak has to be small enough to allow the vacuum pump to pull enough vacuum to 
get a
reading on the vacuum guage for this to work.

Happy hunting.

Ladge 


From buddy@space.mit.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Buddy Randolph <buddy@space.mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Books on Welding
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 18:12:06 -0400
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
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Sorry I missed the original post.  After getting a Millermatic 130 for 
Christmas I scoured the planet for welding books.  Finch's book is 
good and readily available, and Miller publishes an excellent 
technical series on MIG (maybe others).  But the ***Best Deal*** came 
>from  the Lincoln Arc Welding Foundation, which sells a long list of 
titles at or near **cost**.  I got the aforementioned Procedures book 
(the welder's "bible") and also about 6 other titles for less than 
US$40!  Most of these are hardback books that average about $5 each!  
Many are directed toward "stick" welding and show some age but are 
well worth the price.  I also got a couple of project books compiled 
>from  vocational school submissions that are fascinating, as well as a 
guide to replacing cast parts with weldments for industrial 
applications.  I'm on a temporary job assignment and don't have the 
number with me but you can call Lincoln and go from there...


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: 12 Jun 1996 15:08:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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   In general these tanks have a coating on the inside to resist rust --
you
may wish to inspect the inside of yours.

Cliff Huprich


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 11 Jun 1996 15:34:28 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: Your_Email_Address

Your_Email_Address (Your_Login) wrote:
>Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
>instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
>other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?
>

Not particularly.  Carbon steel is just as hard, or harder, than HSS.
Carbon steel taps have one distinct advantage over HSS; if you break
one off, you can heat it up (assuming what you broke it off in can
stand to be heated up), anneal it, and drill it out, which you can't
do with a HSS tap.

Some types of HSS may be more abrasion-resistant than carbon steel, so
the taps may last a bit longer.  But, basically, for home shop use I
don't know of any compelling reason to use HSS taps over carbon steel
taps, given equivalent quality in manufacture.  These days it may be
easier to get high-quality HSS taps, just because industry tends to
favor them for production work, but if you can get high-quality carbon
steel taps I think they'd serve just as well for hand tapping.

There's a really good book about tool steel selection, published by
Carpenter Steel Co.  It is, of course, heavily weighted toward the
proper selection of Carpenter tool steels :-) but the brand really doesn't
matter. It goes through and lists properties of various types of tool
steels, including plain water-hardening carbon steel.  In summary, 
there's no reason to use anything other than carbon steel (as made by 
Carpenter Steel Co, of course!) unless you need the particular properties 
of another steel, like resistance to heat, or resistance to warping, or 
superior abrasion resistance, or whatever.  Plain carbon steel is 
actually pretty good.




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 11 Jun 1996 15:34:42 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 32
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Your_Email_Address (Your_Login) wrote:
>Is there an advantage in using high speed steel taps for hand tapping 
>instead of carbon steel? Are there any other advantages in using hss 
>other than its ability to tolerate moree heat than carbon steel?
>

Not particularly.  Carbon steel is just as hard, or harder, than HSS.
Carbon steel taps have one distinct advantage over HSS; if you break
one off, you can heat it up (assuming what you broke it off in can
stand to be heated up), anneal it, and drill it out, which you can't
do with a HSS tap.

Some types of HSS may be more abrasion-resistant than carbon steel, so
the taps may last a bit longer.  But, basically, for home shop use I
don't know of any compelling reason to use HSS taps over carbon steel
taps, given equivalent quality in manufacture.  These days it may be
easier to get high-quality HSS taps, just because industry tends to
favor them for production work, but if you can get high-quality carbon
steel taps I think they'd serve just as well for hand tapping.

There's a really good book about tool steel selection, published by
Carpenter Steel Co.  It is, of course, heavily weighted toward the
proper selection of Carpenter tool steels :-) but the brand really doesn't
matter. It goes through and lists properties of various types of tool
steels, including plain water-hardening carbon steel.  In summary, 
there's no reason to use anything other than carbon steel (as made by 
Carpenter Steel Co, of course!) unless you need the particular properties 
of another steel, like resistance to heat, or resistance to warping, or 
superior abrasion resistance, or whatever.  Plain carbon steel is 
actually pretty good.




From mailhost.primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mailhost.primenet.com (srb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 11 Jun 1996 08:53:01 -0700
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In article <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk>, David W Hoskin
<david@hoskin.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>Not strictly engineering, but many of us use computers to prepare
>drawings...
>Recently I bought a used HP 7475A -but without any documentation.  I am
>assured that it works, but so far not for me!
>I am probably doing something daft, but it doesn't help when you don't
>know what all the buttons are for.  Can anyone tell me what the DIP
>switch settings are?  What state the machine should be in when info is
>sent to it? (I have discovered for example that the buttons P1 and P2
>move the pen to opposite corners of the page -but which is the 'normal'
>one?).  I'm using it with Windows 3.11.  I'm fairly sure the cable is
>OK.  Print Manager shows that the data has been sent successfully, but
>the plotter just sits there blinking the orange error light at me.  It
>looks as if its either waiting for something else, or can't make sense
>of the data because the RS232 protocol settings are wrong.  Can anyone
>help?
>BTW I've tried using both the driver the comes with Windows and the one
>supplied as part of the AutoSketch programme, but with similar results.
>--                    
>Regards,              **************************************************
>David Hoskin          The business of finding fault is very easy: that
>East Yorkshire, UK    of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
>                      **************************************************

You can order the manual from HP the part # is 07475-90002
You'll really need it to configure your system.
steve


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 00:58:39 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 28
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In article <4pkr9g$jdj@crocus.csv.warwick.ac.uk>, esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk
(Mr J Brennan) wrote:

}Hi,
}I was wondering if anyone could confirm a suspicion I have about
}leaving air compressors for extended periods full. I have feeling
}that it is not reccommended because of accelerated corrosion due
}to increased partial pressures of Oxygen - can someone give me an
}idea if this is the case, and if so is it a major safety risk or
}not. I don't have a fixed power supply to my compressor and tend to
}leave it full to charge up tyres etc.
}
}Thanks John
}
}-- 
}John Brennan            Tel +44 1203 523973
}University of Warwick,  Fax +44 1203 524144                     
}Coventry, CV4 7AL,UK    Email esrbz@warwick.ac.uk       
} 

I feel that with most compressors there is enough oil leakage by the rings
that it tend to coat the inside of the tank with a mist of oil.  There is
also considerable water that condenses inside the tank and goes to the
bottom.  I think the condensation would be more of a concern for corrosion
than the oxygen in the air.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Speaking of air compressors
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 10:53:18 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960611105214.10763J-100000@reliant>
References: <31b8d894.688429@news.ptd.net> <4pb0oa$mla@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4pjn3q$5q4@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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Actually, if you modify the head to allow intake and exhause check valves
and disable the intake and exhause valves in the engine, you will get four
compressor strokes for each two fireing strokes.  It pumps a lot of air!
John


On 11 Jun 1996, Robert Galloway wrote:

> >Smith compressors make a compressor out of a 429 ford and use one bank
> >forr running and the other for compression.   They still make these.  They
> >will run a 120 # Jackhammer all day and never get hot.   There is a co
> >that used to supply a plan for converting a 429 into a compressor.
> >
> >Cecil in OK
> 
> It seems like such an attractive idea, I'm glad to know that it actually 
> works.  A question: Does it matter if the firing order alternates from 
> bank to bank?  I looked at the firing order on a number of V8's back in 
> the late 50's and found that some alternated banks in the fining 
> order and some had sequential cylinders in the same bank firing.  I 
> figured the thing would run smoother if every power pulse was 
> interspersed with compressor stroke.
> 
> rhg
> 
> 
> 


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:16:06 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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The moving finger of xlch58@netcom.com having written:

>Welding O2 would have more impurities I suppose than medical.

Is there anything deliberate in welding oxygen ?  I know that motor
racing nitrous oxide has a noxious additive (sulphur dioxide) added to
prevent people sniffing it as laughing gas.



From osan@netlabs.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help needed saving a business
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:20:34 -0400
Organization: Eventide Forge
Lines: 62
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Hi folks,

I need some help and I think this may be the place to get it.

I have a friend, Stefan, that has a machine shop.  He's a very
capable machinist and does very good work, so much so that he's
unable to do all the work people want of him.

Most folks would think that this would be an enviable position
to be in and under "normal" circumstances I'd agree, but in 
Stefan's case it's not so good.

This guy's busting his hump to the point where everyone around him
is seriously afraid he's going to drop dead or worse, become 
extremely ill some day soon from all the stress.

I've known quite a few good machinists over the course of my life
and in fact I grew up with the finest instrument maker to have ever
walked this earth and the one thing they've all told me that in this
business you have to be doing something VERY wrong to not make very
good money.

Well Stefan, despite his endless volume of jobs, must be doing
something WAY wrong because he's barely paying his bills to the
point that for FY 1995 he had to pay his federal taxes from loans
off credit cards, which I'm sure you'll all agree is a way bad thing.

My suspicion is that he is grossly undercharginh for his work but I'm 
not absolutely certain.  Therefore I'd like to ask those experienced 
folks out there how might I determine the precise nature of the problem.
Also, do any of you know of any fairly well defined methods for pricing
out jobs?  I suspect he just eyeballs the parts and spits out numbers
off the top of his head without giving the prospect its due 
consideration.

Also, Stefan does nothing but special short runs (a job shop if you 
will) and I strongly feel he needs to start considering CNC capabilities
(he gets approached all the time for CNC jobs abd has to turn them down
because he doesn't have the equipment).  I've suggested he do a middle
man routine by handing CNC jobs off to his CNC buddies and adding a few 
percent premium to the price of the job but he seems reticent (saidhe's 
afraid of chasing things like this, leaving his machines idle).  Any
ideas on how this might be done effectively?  Also, anyone know any good
sources for leasing CNC equipment, perhaps used?  Any opinions on what
might be a good choice for, say, screw machine type jobs?  Any insights
are welcome.

Stefan is technically very adept but he is not a businessman of any
reasonable caliber.  He does very good work but is missing something
in his way of doing business.  Someone with his experience should,
AFAIK, be making a very comfortable living rather than working themself
to death, barely keeping his nose above water.

Any help you folks can afford is be greatly appreciated.  You'd be
helping save what I believe to be an essentially sound business and
quite possibly someone's life.  I'd really hate to see it all go up
in chapter 11 flames but I think it's getting close; it would be a real 
sad shame.

Thanks again.

	-Andy V.


From sherrick@slonet.org Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 20:41:43 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 23
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To: xlch58@netcom.com, quartlow@netcom.com, xlch58@netcom.com
In-Reply-To: <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com>

O2 is not O2. The difference is in a minicule amount of purity
(sometimes), but most importantly certification. The med O2 has to be
certified as safe for Human consumption, which bumps up the price
considerably, due to the testing, and extra insurance....

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On Mon, 10 Jun 1996 xlch58@netcom.com wrote:

> Len Turnbow (quartlow@netcom.com) wrote:
> 
> : O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
> : between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
> : Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
> : -- 
> :                                              quartlow@netcom.com
> 
>   Different purities.  Same as gold,  14k is more expensive than 10k.
> Welding O2 would have more impurities I suppose than medical.
> 
> 



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:40:58 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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In article <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net> felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) writes:
>From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
>Subject: Sherline Mill Opinions?
>Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 17:02:24 GMT

>The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
>mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are happy
>with theirs. Also, if I do get one, is the 5400 model with the extra y axis
>travel worth the extra $125? Call me paranoid, but I just don't trust
>the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
>negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill
>for about $500 in the Willamette valley of Oregon, I would probably want that 
>instead.
>Thanks

I think Sherline is a fine tool FOR ITS SIZE. If you are also looking for a 
mill/drill, you are not looking at two tools of the same size.  If you expect 
to do BIG work on the Sherline, forget it, get a mill/drill.

If you want to do work that fits on the Sherline, and for a mill Id say thats 
a part no larger than about 3"x4"  then get a Sherline. 

Im not convinced the larger Sherline is worth it. I have the samll one, a 
friend has the larger one. I havent seen the job suitable to a big one that 
wont also be suitable for the small one. But then, I have a much bigger 
Clausing Mill, so I can put a job where it belings.

If you need a pickup truck, buying a Honda civic because they are cheaper is 
not a good solution.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 12 Jun 1996 06:40:53 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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Message-ID: <4pmdsl$aq1@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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>O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
>between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
>Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
>-- 
>                                             quartlow@netcom.com

When I used to buy "medical grade" O2 (1968-1976) there was no 
difference.  Today it might be the degree of certification of purity.  
There have been a couple of cases of the wrong gas in cylinders delivered 
to hospitals and patients have died.  They have really gotten sticky 
about the certification of contents.  This is only a guess.

rhg


From bob@bobunitt.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Unitt <news@bobunitt.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spring pin and dowel pin tolerances
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 21:42:59 +0100
Organization: Nowhere in particular...
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In article <4phvu2$66h@tofu.alt.net>, Nick Irias <cabago@netcom.com>
writes
>I need to pin a joint with a small (1/16" to 3/32") pin.  My plan is
>to have one piece bored so that it has a loose fit on the pin and can
>rotate freely.  The other piece needs to be a tight enough fit that
>the pin doesnt come loose.     
>
>Is there a rule of thumb regarding how much a hole should be
>undersized for spring pins vs dowel pins?  Also, is lock-tite required
>with dowel pins or are they typically just a friction fit?

Why not use a taper pin ?

-- 
Bob Unitt


From bgg@eden.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bgg@eden.com (The Book Garden Gallery)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Seeking Artists!!
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:28:36 GMT
Organization: Adhesive Media, Inc.
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The Book Garden Gallery is looking for artists
>from  all genres and mediums to submit their work.

Please come by for a visit at...

http://www.eden.com/~bgg

Or kindly email us for details.  All queries answered.

Thank you.



*****************************************************************
Used and Rare Books, Art Gallery, Solid Cedar Design, 
Children's Stories, Green Goat Imports.  

Coming Soon:  Cool Culture Media!  8-tracks, vinyl,
collectibles and kitsch.
*****************************************************************



From simoneau@oce.uri.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Larry Simoneau <simoneau@oce.uri.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ATLAS/Craftsman Lathe For Sale
Date: 12 Jun 1996 13:20:28 GMT
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ATLAS Craftsman 12" Standard change gear lathe with toolholder,
boring bar holder, 3 jaw chuck, follower rest and change gears.
New cross-feed nut and half-nuts.

Lathe is in good condition but missing the side cover over the
change gears.

Located in Rhode Island.   

$350.00


email to: simoneau@oce.uri.edu





From Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gordon French <Gordon.French@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving
Date: 12 Jun 1996 13:49:40 GMT
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I don't know prices or quality but I did get a flyer from:

     Danville Engineering Inc.
     115-A Railroad Avenue
     Danville, CA  94526
     (800) 827-7940

They have a product called "Airgraver" & "Microetcher" which is a sand-
blasting gun.  The flyer illustrates these tools as being about the size
of an air brush.

Gordon



From esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr J Brennan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Air Compressor Safety
Date: 11 Jun 1996 23:17:20 +0100
Organization: University of Warwick, Coventry, UK
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Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could confirm a suspicion I have about
leaving air compressors for extended periods full. I have feeling
that it is not reccommended because of accelerated corrosion due
to increased partial pressures of Oxygen - can someone give me an
idea if this is the case, and if so is it a major safety risk or
not. I don't have a fixed power supply to my compressor and tend to
leave it full to charge up tyres etc.

Thanks John

-- 
John Brennan		Tel +44 1203 523973
University of Warwick,	Fax +44 1203 524144			
Coventry, CV4 7AL,UK	Email esrbz@warwick.ac.uk	
 


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 21:58:16 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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In article <mailhost.primenet.com-1106960852230001@news.primenet.com>,
   mailhost.primenet.com (srb) wrote:
<In article <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk>, David W Hoskin
<<david@hoskin.demon.co.uk> wrote:
<
<>Not strictly engineering, but many of us use computers to prepare
<>drawings...
<>Recently I bought a used HP 7475A -but without any documentation.  I am
<>assured that it works, but so far not for me!
<>I am probably doing something daft, but it doesn't help when you don't
<>know what all the buttons are for.  Can anyone tell me what the DIP
<>switch settings are?  What state the machine should be in when info is
<>sent to it? (I have discovered for example that the buttons P1 and P2
<>move the pen to opposite corners of the page -but which is the 'normal'
<>one?).  I'm using it with Windows 3.11.  I'm fairly sure the cable is
<>OK.  Print Manager shows that the data has been sent successfully, but
<>the plotter just sits there blinking the orange error light at me.  It
<>looks as if its either waiting for something else, or can't make sense
<>of the data because the RS232 protocol settings are wrong.  Can anyone
<>help?
<>BTW I've tried using both the driver the comes with Windows and the one
<>supplied as part of the AutoSketch programme, but with similar results.
<>--                    
<>Regards,              
<
<You can order the manual from HP the part # is 07475-90002
<You'll really need it to configure your system.
<steve

You also have to make sure your cable is correct.  HP plotters require a 
slightly oddball serial cable, or a special null-modem.  This should be 
covered in the manual as well.  I think some of the other DIP switches 
control baud rate, parity etc.

Doug


From airioch@telalink.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: airioch@telalink.net (Airioch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 16:55:28 -0600
Organization: AiriCom
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In article <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk>, David W Hoskin
<david@hoskin.demon.co.uk> wrote:


> Recently I bought a used HP 7475A -but without any documentation.  I am
> assured that it works, but so far not for me!

> BTW I've tried using both the driver the comes with Windows and the one
> supplied as part of the AutoSketch programme, but with similar results.
> --                    
Try HPs web site. They have all sorts of technical notes, drivers as 
well as configuration information. http://www.hp.com/


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 18:36:38 -0400
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   Another method of chip control, if the part & tool geometry allow it,
is
to stop the lathe, advance the tool into the work at the tailstock end,
and then move the tool towards the headstock, thus scoring the stock.
   The chips may then break at the score as you cut -- of course this
cycle must be repeated for each pass but works well for the finish cut
on some materials.
   Do not score deeper than the final pass cuts --

Cliff Huprich


From bharbour@teleport.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bharbour@teleport.com (Bob Harbour)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 00:03:46 GMT
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David W Hoskin (david@hoskin.demon.co.uk) wrote:
>  Can anyone tell me what the DIP switch settings are?
suggest you set the switches on the rear panel to: B3,B1 closed, 
B4,B2 closed for 9600 bd, one stop bit. S1 off for no parity. D/Y switch 
for D (closed), US/MET for your choice US or Metric. 

  What state the machine should be in when info is sent to it?
: the plotter just sits there blinking the orange error light at me. It
: looks as if its either waiting for something else, or can't make sense
: of the data because the RS232 protocol settings are wrong.  

push the paper load lever to paper load, put a piece of paper in the tray, 
on the pinch rollers and move the load lever back toward you. Should have 
the pen carousel in place with a pen in the #1 position at least.
It should take data now and plot. The flashing error light could be an 
RS232 protocol error or a data error.
To run the self test, put pens in all the carousel locations, put paper in 
as described. Turn machine off. Hold the P1 and P2 buttons down and switch 
on the power. Wait until the machine makes a tapping sound, and release 
the buttons. The plotter should draw a demo/selftest plot with no external 
data source. This will tell you if the machine mostly works.

Good Luck

--
Bob Harbour
bharbour@teleport.com 


From lisaclisac@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lisaclisac@aol.com (Lisaclisac)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WHO...
Date: 11 Jun 1996 20:12:38 -0400
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Looking for someone who has the capabilities to mill cavities into
aluminum plates or most likely maple plywood die board. Maximum plate size
would be around 12" square. An simple example is: 3/4" x 10" x 10" maple
die board with 10 rows of 8 holes .400" diameter x .250" deep. Holes would
be .600" on centers. Must be accurate. We would provide CAD drawings and
willing to provide materials.
Any interested parties e-mail us at:
lisaclisac@aol.com 

Lisac Ltd.
email:  lisaclisac@aol.com


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:25:31 -0600
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>
> At least one World War II searchlight used a DC carbon arc. The
>carbons were the same diameter, but the negative was solid carbon,
>while the positive had an iron-powder core.
>
I think you'll find that the main advantage to two sizes of carbons for a 
DC carbon arc is where a clockwork feed is used.  The positive carbon is 
consumed faster than the negative.  If they are sized right you can feed 
the two different sized carbons at the same rate and they stay even.

rhg



From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 08:23:36 -0700
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	--A spray-mist unit helps blow the chip (not "chips": there will 
only be one big one and some dust ;-) ) off of a milling setup. For the 
lathe, a vacuum is good, although I like to supplement with one of those 
bamboo barbecue scewers, to hook the stuff out of the way of the chuck, 
etc. For a CNC setup, I would recommend programming in some pauses, to 
get a chip out in sections, so that it doesn't all run together and foul 
up the workpiece.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:30 EDT 1996
Article: 29650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 08:32:45 -0700
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Jim Shockey (shockey@primenet.com) wrote:
: >Ah, but wait ... won't the backlash in the drive train
: >completely alter the tool's position? That's what I didn't understand
: >the first time through. Backlash.
	--Not a problem because the tool is being fed by hand (a light touch: a 
tap  will mostly feed itself), not being driven by a leadscrew... Just turn the
 feed-handle the other way at the right moment; the reversing chuck will let 
you "feel" what's needed.
: I haven't had the pleasure of running a Hardinge Chucker; but, 
: if Ed would like me to come on down to So. Calif., I can show 
: him how to break taps on it, too. <g> 
	--Hey, I'm *in* So. Cal. Come on up! 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:33:53 -0700
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X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Jun 12 10:33:12 AM CDT 1996
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To: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>

Mike Rehmus wrote:
> 
> The 4X6" horizontal bandsaw can be purchased from many
> sources.  I'd elect to purchase one from the vendor
> with the lowest price (including shipping).
> 
> Then, before I used the saw, I would open the gearbox
> and remove all of the lube and all of the grit and
> iron filings you will find inside.  Really clean it
> out as this will affect the life of the saw.
> 
> Replace the lubricant with one of the synthetic
> lubes meant for worm gears / automotive rearends.
> I actually use Red Line's MTF (Manual Transmission
> Fluid) which is thin but works really well in this
> application.  What I mean by that is that I no longer
> find metal shavings in the lube and the saw still works
> after quite a bit of use.  I am not a lubrication expert
> however.
> 
> Then, for your first cutting task, slice up four pieces
> of 2" angle iron to just fit around the bottom of the
> sheet metal legs.  Weld them into a frame, add two wheels
> to the back corners and then bolt the frame onto the bottom
> of the saw legs.  This will prevent the legs from collapsing
> when you attempt to move it on the supplied and grossly inadequate
> plastic wheels and then run into a small crack in the shop floor.
> 
> Next, go down to the hardware store and purchase a barn door
> handle and bolt it to the front saw leg in place of the bent
> barstock handle that will bend the front legs the first time
> you get the handle out of position.
> 
> The only caveat is that the saw is very top heavy so you want
> to hold on to the new handle with a firm grip and hold onto
> the top of the saw frame with your other hand whenever you
> move it.  Never attempt to move the saw with the frame in the
> upright position.  Unless you work on a soft rubber floor.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> Mike Rehmus

Nicely put Mike.

I really like my little ENCO bandsaw.  I wasn't too impressed with the wheel and will 
probably modify they per your method.  Appreciate
your comments on this and other subjects.

Paul in AJ AZ


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spring pin and dowel pin tolerances
Date: 12 Jun 1996 08:35:32 -0700
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	--and if the design permits, don't fergit a little bitty hole 
through to the other side, so you can drive the damned things out again, 
if needed, f'rinstance if you want to get a part anodized or if you 
(gulp) do something that needs un-doing...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Message-ID: <1996Jun11.143110.23642@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 11 Jun 96 14:31:09 MDT
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In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch) writes:
|>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
|>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range...

The most frequently-mentioned engine seems to be the Schreckling.
>From  the FAQ:

   -  Traplet Publications Ltd.
      Traplet House
      Severn Drive
      Upton-Upon-Severn
      Worcestershire
      WR8 0JL
      England
      http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet
      E-Mail: Traplet@Dial.Pipex.Com
      +44 1684 594505

      Traplet Distribution USA
      144 W Sierra Madre Blvd
      Sierra Madre, CA 91024-2435
      U.S.A.
      All U.S. queries should be addressed to Marianne or Kathy.
      Tel. (800) 523-1736, Intl +1 818 836 6931
      Fax. Intl. +1 818 836 6941

      Primary source for "Gas Turbine Engines for Model Aircraft" by Kurt
      Schreckling, and another book by Kamps.  Some model stores may also
      carry the book(s), such as Sulphur Springs Steam Models Ltd, Box 6165,
      Chesterfield MO 63006-6165 (per an ad in Feb/Mar '96 "Strictly I.C.").
      See Traplet's web pages, under "Books" for price and ordering info.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 09:06:40 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Michael Jones <jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk>

Michael Jones wrote:
> 
> cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Thanks for reading this. I bought a center finder  and a wiggler set
> > and found that it didn't come with instrucions. Can sombody please
> >explain to me how they work?
> 
> You can see a video of how to use a centerfinder at the MIT machine tools
> site. It's always helpful to *see* someone actually use one.
> 
> Sorry I don't know how to make it a proper clickable url.
> 
> http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/mill/intro.html
> 
> Mike Jones

Mike:

I made a previous reply but note that it only went to the newsgroup
and not to you personally...

You sure did make that web page clickable.  I guess that the newsgroup 
recognizes web pages.  That looks like a fantastic page but I'dd like
to know what to use as a viewer.  Netscape does not read videos and
says I need a viewer but although they offer several I know not what
is required.

Does MIT also have a lathe page, etc..?

Thanks again for your input.

Paul in AJ AZ


From sybok@athena.mit.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline Mill -- Will it work on small areas of large objects
Date: 13 Jun 1996 06:36:19 GMT
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Is it possible to work on small areas of larger objects (like
a shotgun) with the Sherline?  I.e., the travel in each dimension will 
be small once the work is clamped to the bed, but the work itself is a
couple feet long.






From jelkil@interaccess.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jelkil@interaccess.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: Bandsaw
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:52:14 GMT
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On 11 Jun 1996 18:40:37 GMT, stpowel@ibm.net wrote:

>I need a bandsaw with the ability to cut metal and wood, and would appreciate
>any advice on what brand to buy, which blade to use, etc...  Also, if anyone is
>interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.

For sale: 20" Delta bandsaw for wood and non ferrous metals, new
110/220v 1.5 hp motor, saw is mounted on casters. Includes extra
blades.  Will deliver and set up 50 mi radius from Chicago. $1100.00.
Also Emmert #82 turtleback patternmakers vise, huge capacity, swivels
in every direction. $1500.00 delivered. 

 Will consider using these as partial trades plus cash  for your
Bridgeport mill, 8x24 + metal lathe, 3hp wood shaper,  delta portable
benchtop planer, 6" jointer, Williams and Hussey molder,or  Wilton C-2
vise.  

Email Jelkil@interaccess.com



From thmac@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thmac@ix.netcom.com (Tony)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: needed,Jecto stacking cones
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:58:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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where can my company get 200 jecto stacking cones,,

we need them ASAP 

thanks for any help    tony
---------------------------------------------------------
tony                           tkmac@ix.nrtcom.com
When I had made an end to these labors,it was four o'clock
still dark as midnight.



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 13 Jun 1996 20:34:58 GMT
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References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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In article <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu>, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert
Galloway) wrote:

> >
> >Is there anything deliberate in welding oxygen ?  I know that motor
> >racing nitrous oxide has a noxious additive (sulphur dioxide) added to
> >prevent people sniffing it as laughing gas.
> >
> 
> No.  O2 doesn't have any abuse potential.  I suspect and I emphasize, I 
> don't know this for certain, but I suspect that the Medical O2 and the 
> welding O2 may be transported around the country as one material.  We get 
> O2 at the MEDCEN as LOX.  The truck that delivers is doesn't say anything 
> about Medical on it.  I think the cost has more to do with the liability 
> associated with medical use than it does with the relative purity of the 
> product.  Anybody here have any definitive knowledge here?  You're just 
> paying the guy for sticking his neck out and certifying the purity.
> 
> rhg

As a diver and welder I can state the O2 required for welding can have
lots of little impurities in it (like minute amounts of compressor oil
etc), O2 for breathing is likely purified to a much greater degree due to
the body absorbing any present impurities. At least at dive pressures its
a great concern and they make a big deal about it with the compressed air.

My $0.02
Daryl


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: Bandsaw
Date: 13 Jun 1996 20:20:04 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 56
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In article <4pkej5$3g4s@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net>, stpowel@ibm.net wrote:

> I need a bandsaw with the ability to cut metal and wood, and would appreciate
> any advice on what brand to buy, which blade to use, etc...  Also, if
anyone is
> interested in selling a bandsaw, let me know.

I would just keep your eyes open and eventually serendipity will pay off.
That's what happen to me. I ended up getting an old Oliver 15.

I don't know if you are familiar with OLIVER's but they are old, huge and
heavy (2500lbs est). Looks sort of like a giant C clamp with a wheel at
each end of the C - well sort of. The saw has two 38" (wagon size) wheels
(36" cut depth) 21" resaw capability (I can't use the full 21" since the
adjustment arm hits the roof at 14"). 20ft blades are nominal but again at
19ft-9" my wheel JUST misses the roof however it can accept down to about
17ft blades.  I am buying blades by the 100ft roll and welding them up to
suit. Unfortunately I found out about the length issue after welding up a
bunch of 20ft'ers at work on Friday for a weekends work only to find
Friday night that they all had to be shortened 3" (Monday). The shear
length of the blade causes them to run very cool.

The motor is a 5hp DC with speed control. It also has another motor/blower
for cooling the DC motor at low speeds when the DC motor's rotors arn't
turning fast enough to cool itself. It (blower) comes on when you plug  in
the machine. These things were originally flat belt driven so you could
rig up dam near anything but I can't recommend the DC drive enough. They
are wonderful!! Full torque at low speed. At 5HP I have basically
unlimited power on tap. I could compete with a small sawmill.

I have cut maple (9" thick) at about 1"/sec (3TPI 3/4" blade) and 3" bar
(14TPI 1/2" blade) over a couple of minutes. I was cutting my forge top
1/8" sheet with the 14TPI blade and it broke (too thin for 14TPI) so I
ordered a roll of 24TPI wavey (hacksaw) and it now cuts steel as thin as
you want. I have yet to try any thin blades (like 1/8") but I also have a
scroll saw and frankly a 20ft 1/8" blade might just be a bugger to mount
without twists but likely this saw could do it. would have to be carefull
on tension though.

This is my first season using it as I got it just before Christmas. It was
a bugger to move (I even had to rent a huge crane to unload it), takes up
a fair amount of floor space but now that it's in place I JUST LOVE IT.

It is the DC motor (variable speed) which allows me to also use it for
metalwork too. In fact I doubt there is anything this saw can't cut given
the right blade and speed. Just install a blade, plug it in, blower
starts, put my work on the 36" x 40" table (this part tilts there is
another table 20"x20" approx next to the arm that doesn't tilt), press
start, wagon wheels start turning, dial in the speed and CUT. All
adjustments (table tilt, blade tension, blade tracking) are by handwheels.
For blade tension the upper wheel moves on dovetail slide. Every time I
use it I just walk away beaming. I got this one for US$950 not counting
moving expenses and sorry, it is not for sale.

Happy hunting
Daryl


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 16:05:22 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <4pi1nt$bf3@crcnis3.unl.edu>, mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen) writes:
>John Dammeyer (johnd@islandnet.com) wrote:
>: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) wrote:
>
>: >     Can any of you tell me how to find the leak in a
>: >     vacuum chamber?   It could be the various fittings,
>: >     or it could be my welding.....                    
>: >                                         David Ide
>
>     The best leak testing that I know of for finding a leak is using
>a helium leak detector.  You connect up the leak detector which is 
>pumped down using a roughing pump and then a diffusion pump.  Attached
>to these is a small mass spectrometer that is tuned for helium.  You 
>then get a tank of helium and using a little hose test your fitting 
>and welds.  Our leak detector make a humming sound when it detects 
>helium.  This works very good for high and ultra-high systems.  For a 
>system that is only going to 10^-3 Torr attach a roughing pump with a 
>therocouple gauge and using acetone squirt a little on the fittings 
>and see if the vacuum pressure rises.
>
>     That is the problem. Is it the fittings or the welding that is 
>leaking.  Some time both can be a real pain to find. Best of luck.
>
>     Mike J. 
>
>
>--
>Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 

Trust Mike.  The *only* way to find leaks (large or small) in a real
vacuum system is using a mass spec helium leak checker.  

You can fool around with squirting acetone on the system, and 
watching the pressure on a TC gage, or watching for a color
change in glass tube in the forepump line excited with a sparker
coil, but that is all mostly useless in the end.

If it is a real piece of vacuum aparatus (final pressure to be less
than 100 microns or so) then you will need to be able to leak
check with a helium leak checker, so try to borrow one, and learn
to use it.  

Veeco, Leybold, Varian, &tc all make some types which have 
differences, but are basically the same - a U-tube magnetic
analyzer to measure helium concentration and some sort of 
vacuum system to pump with.

If it is a UHV system, then the RGA (residual gas analyzer) is the
way to go - a dedicated mass spec unit that bolts onto your chamber.
Way expensive.

Best bet - find somebody with a leak checker, ask them to show 
you how to run it.  

Best of luck!


===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From cabago@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 16:16:04 GMT
Organization: AltNet - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
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felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) wrote:

>The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
>mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are happy
>with theirs. Also, if I do get one, is the 5400 model with the extra y axis
>travel worth the extra $125? Call me paranoid, but I just don't trust
>the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
>negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill
>for about $500 in the Willamette valley of Oregon, I would probably want that 
>instead.
>Thanks

The Sherline is a good mill if your work will fit on it and if you
dont want to cut a lot of stainless steel.  It cuts aluminum and soft
steel just fine.  I can usually cut within .001" and a skilled
machinist can probably get better accuracy out of the Sherline.   

I have a 10 year old Sherline, and it could use some additional y axis
travel.  But what it could use even more is a shield for the y axis
ways and feed screw.  These parts are exposed, and cuttings on the
feed screw and ways  jam up the works.  And if you dont keep the feed
screw threads clean enough, the anti-backlash nut sticks to the feed
screw and breaks free of its retainer.  I usually try to set things up
so that most movement is with the  the x axis feed, and I leave a
piece of folded card stock over the y axis feed and ways  to shield
them. 

I dont know how much extra y axis travel you get for your $125 so I
dont know if its a good deal.  I would definitely pay $125 for a
shielded y axis feed mechanism. 

Despite my  complaints about the y axis, I still think the Sherline is
a great machine for the money.



From johnd@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 07:27:03 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Michael Jones wrote:
>> 
>> cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com> wrote:
[snip]
>> 
>> You can see a video of how to use a centerfinder at the MIT machine tools
>> site. It's always helpful to *see* someone actually use one.
>> 
>> Sorry I don't know how to make it a proper clickable url.
>> 
>> http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/mill/intro.html
>> 
>> Mike Jones

>Mike it came out clickable...  Looked like it could be a real
>fantastic net page.  I couldn't view the video.  Netscape says
>I need a plugin viewing software.  I'll try one of these days.

>Thanks for the address...

>Paul in AJ AZ

Super video.  I always wondered how they work.  Now I've seen it.

BTW.  Just above the /mill/ directory they have the rest of the
machine shop videos.  Some are a bit short but overall the quality is
excellent.

John.




From janders@oro.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: used steel drawer cabinets, blade shear
Date: 13 Jun 1996 03:08:21 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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I'm looking for companies between Reno, NV and the SF bay area that
deal in used business furniture, cabinets and such in particular.
What I want are steel drawer cabinets that would readily lend themselves
to being used for drill-tap-end mill indexes. I can find plenty of this stuff new,
and with the annual volumne these outfits have, there just has to be somewhere
to get the stuff used. Sources outside this area would be OK if they do catalog sales.

Also looking for a band saw blade shear. Yeah, I could make one, but I'm just
swamped. I had a blade welder given to me to use as long as I need. I just
hate buying welded blades when I have this welding sitting here.

Jon Anderson
Prototype & Design



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TOOL GRINDER
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:40:18 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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HI:

YOU HAD PURCHASED A TOOL GRINDER AT THE EASTEC SHOW FROM TRAVERS TOOL.
HAVE YOU RECEIVED IT?
DOES IT DO WHAT YOU HAD HOPED?

I FAXED A CATALOG REQUEST TO TRAVERS TOOL ON MAY 26 BUT AS OF THIS
DATE (6/13) HAVE NOT HEARD FROM THEM.

I FAXED MSC FOR A CATALOG ON A MONDAY AND RECEIVED IT ON WEDNESDAY!!!

PAUL IN AJ AZ


From ian.grey@dial.pipex.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fa34@dial.pipex.com (Ian Grey)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:17:20 GMT
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>I think you'll find that the main advantage to two sizes of carbons for a 
>DC carbon arc is where a clockwork feed is used.  The positive carbon is 
>consumed faster than the negative.  If they are sized right you can feed 
>the two different sized carbons at the same rate and they stay even.

I remember my local Cinema from 25 years ago, it had Italian Victoria 8s
running at 120 Amps (It was a big house!)They ran 6000ft spools (60
minutes), the positive carbon was about 2'6" long with the crater
focussed onto a large dichroic mirror. The negative was about 1' long
passing through a central hole in the mirror. Although the negative
diameter was slightly smaller than the positive, the negative lasted 3
spools whilst the positive had to be replaced every change-over. they
were cored and copper coated and powered via limiting resistors from a 4
bottle mercury arc rectifier suite. They were motorised but had to be
trimmed by hand if it was windy!.

They also had two Stelmar spots, they used non-coated carbons with hand
gearing. I can't remember much about changing rods as I only operated
them a few times but the positive was about 1" diameter and we couldn't
get much more than an hour and a quarter out of them which meant losing
one then the other for a long show. (It wasn't realistic to douse them
between numbers as striking them up burnt off as much as we had saved).
 _____________________________________________________________________
|Ian Grey Voice (0113) 252 0662 Fax (0113) 252 4205 Mobile 0973 176785|
|e-mail ian.grey@dial.pipex.com url:http://ds.dial.pipex.com/ian.grey/|
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From willis@wco.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Willis Eschenbach <willis@wco.com>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:20:33 -0700
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As a kid, I worked for an old blueprint shop. An enormous ancient 
blueprint machine used carbon arcs to make the prints.

I was fascinated by the machine. When I traced out the regulation of the 
feeding of the rods, I was amazed by its simplicity. 

The power to the arc first ran through a mondo sized solenoid. One rod 
was attached to the moving part of the solenoid. A spring kept the rods 
touching when the machine was off.

When the switch was turned on, the solenoid received full current, so it 
pulled the rods apart (against the spring). The further it pulled, the 
less current ran through it, so it stopped before the arc was 
extinguished. At that point it was perfectly balanced. It would even 
restart automatically if for some reason it lost the arc ...

I thought ... wow ...


willis


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spray Mist woes
Date: 12 Jun 1996 17:16:21 GMT
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I'd be surprised if soluble oil would spray from 
a mist system.  I know my setup certainly wouldn't
spray anything more viscous than water.

The coolants made expressly for mist cooling/lube
are mixed with water and do not seem to increase
the viscosity in any meaningful manner.  Unless
I let it sit in the bucket too long in a hot garage.
But then that is another story.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:16:44 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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I would strongly recommend he just start raising his prices until the
volume of work he has to do, is doable without undue stress.  That 
should also considerably increase his income while relieveing his
workload and stress level.  
John


On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Demon Buddha wrote:

> Hi folks,
> 
> I need some help and I think this may be the place to get it.
> 
> I have a friend, Stefan, that has a machine shop.  He's a very
> capable machinist and does very good work, so much so that he's
> unable to do all the work people want of him.
> 
> Most folks would think that this would be an enviable position
> to be in and under "normal" circumstances I'd agree, but in 
> Stefan's case it's not so good.
> 
> This guy's busting his hump to the point where everyone around him
> is seriously afraid he's going to drop dead or worse, become 
> extremely ill some day soon from all the stress.
> 
> I've known quite a few good machinists over the course of my life
> and in fact I grew up with the finest instrument maker to have ever
> walked this earth and the one thing they've all told me that in this
> business you have to be doing something VERY wrong to not make very
> good money.
> 
> Well Stefan, despite his endless volume of jobs, must be doing
> something WAY wrong because he's barely paying his bills to the
> point that for FY 1995 he had to pay his federal taxes from loans
> off credit cards, which I'm sure you'll all agree is a way bad thing.
> 
> My suspicion is that he is grossly undercharginh for his work but I'm 
> not absolutely certain.  Therefore I'd like to ask those experienced 
> folks out there how might I determine the precise nature of the problem.
> Also, do any of you know of any fairly well defined methods for pricing
> out jobs?  I suspect he just eyeballs the parts and spits out numbers
> off the top of his head without giving the prospect its due 
> consideration.
> 
> Also, Stefan does nothing but special short runs (a job shop if you 
> will) and I strongly feel he needs to start considering CNC capabilities
> (he gets approached all the time for CNC jobs abd has to turn them down
> because he doesn't have the equipment).  I've suggested he do a middle
> man routine by handing CNC jobs off to his CNC buddies and adding a few 
> percent premium to the price of the job but he seems reticent (saidhe's 
> afraid of chasing things like this, leaving his machines idle).  Any
> ideas on how this might be done effectively?  Also, anyone know any good
> sources for leasing CNC equipment, perhaps used?  Any opinions on what
> might be a good choice for, say, screw machine type jobs?  Any insights
> are welcome.
> 
> Stefan is technically very adept but he is not a businessman of any
> reasonable caliber.  He does very good work but is missing something
> in his way of doing business.  Someone with his experience should,
> AFAIK, be making a very comfortable living rather than working themself
> to death, barely keeping his nose above water.
> 
> Any help you folks can afford is be greatly appreciated.  You'd be
> helping save what I believe to be an essentially sound business and
> quite possibly someone's life.  I'd really hate to see it all go up
> in chapter 11 flames but I think it's getting close; it would be a real 
> sad shame.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 	-Andy V.
> 
> 


From levie@hiwaay.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: levie@hiwaay.net (James K. Levie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:59:08 GMT
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esrbz@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr J Brennan) wrote:

>Hi,
>I was wondering if anyone could confirm a suspicion I have about
>leaving air compressors for extended periods full. I have feeling
>that it is not reccommended because of accelerated corrosion due
>to increased partial pressures of Oxygen - can someone give me an
>idea if this is the case, and if so is it a major safety risk or
>not. I don't have a fixed power supply to my compressor and tend to
>leave it full to charge up tyres etc.
>
While I have no "scientific evidence" as back up, I intuitively feel that,
at the pressures involved, there isn't any significant acceleration of the
corrosion process. Most, if not all, commercial and industrial installations
have hard-wired power to the compressor and the units are on 24x7. As far as
I know there aren't any special precautions taken concerning accelerated
corrosion.
> 


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
 Jim Levie                                      email: levie@hiwaay.net
 The opinions expressed above are just that...  Ph:    (205) 534-1087




From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:23:06 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 54
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In-Reply-To: <4pk7q1$icd@news1.svc> 

Mike, the only thing I could add to your nice summary of 
required initial setup would be to take the blade/blades
that came with it and dispose of them safely.  Then install
a standard industrial quality blade.  You will have much
better luck cutting by the time you get to the fourth piece
of 2 inch angle. :-)
John


On 11 Jun 1996, Mike Rehmus wrote:

> The 4X6" horizontal bandsaw can be purchased from many
> sources.  I'd elect to purchase one from the vendor
> with the lowest price (including shipping).
> 
> Then, before I used the saw, I would open the gearbox
> and remove all of the lube and all of the grit and
> iron filings you will find inside.  Really clean it 
> out as this will affect the life of the saw.
> 
> Replace the lubricant with one of the synthetic
> lubes meant for worm gears / automotive rearends.
> I actually use Red Line's MTF (Manual Transmission
> Fluid) which is thin but works really well in this
> application.  What I mean by that is that I no longer
> find metal shavings in the lube and the saw still works
> after quite a bit of use.  I am not a lubrication expert
> however.
> 
> Then, for your first cutting task, slice up four pieces
> of 2" angle iron to just fit around the bottom of the 
> sheet metal legs.  Weld them into a frame, add two wheels
> to the back corners and then bolt the frame onto the bottom
> of the saw legs.  This will prevent the legs from collapsing
> when you attempt to move it on the supplied and grossly inadequate 
> plastic wheels and then run into a small crack in the shop floor.
> 
> Next, go down to the hardware store and purchase a barn door
> handle and bolt it to the front saw leg in place of the bent
> barstock handle that will bend the front legs the first time
> you get the handle out of position.
> 
> The only caveat is that the saw is very top heavy so you want
> to hold on to the new handle with a firm grip and hold onto
> the top of the saw frame with your other hand whenever you
> move it.  Never attempt to move the saw with the frame in the
> upright position.  Unless you work on a soft rubber floor.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> 
> Mike Rehmus
> 
> 
> 


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Turning grooves in faces
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.170325.13341@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:03:25 GMT
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In article <nukeDsv4LG.9uI@netcom.com>, Bill of Lading <nuke@netcom.com> wrote:
>If someone could provide some insight, this rank amateur (obviously,
>right?) would most appreciate it. 

You might need to work on the rigidity of the lathe to get a clean
cut.  Sometimes you might need to speed up the lathe or to slow it
down - I usually start at about 1/2 the turning speed.  Try different
feedrates as well, often if you *increase* the infeed the chatter
stops.  Make sure that the bit is on center, you'll really chatter if
it's even a little bit above center.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. Michael Thompson" <Michael_Thompson-rich@nt.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stockpiles (Was: What is this material from soldering iron.)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:30:24 -0400
Organization: Nortel
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John R. Johnson wrote:
 
> Of course, they probably neither realize nor care, that venting Helium to
> the atmosphere tends to vent it to space!  Helium is so hard to retain in
> our gravity well that all the helium we have was found trapped below ground.

Which is probably just as well, since otherwise we would all sound like Tiny 
Tim. :-)

JMT


From ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu (DEMPSEY)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ISO source for used/discount Miller
Date: 12 Jun 1996 14:23:17 -0400
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Hello, everyone.
     I'm looking for a source for used or discount Miller welding equipment,
specifically the Maxstar series stuff.  If anyone has any leads (no pun
intended) or ideas, I would appreciate the help.
                               Thanks in advance,
                                   -Brian
-- 
DEMPSEY,BRIAN DAVID
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ch89abe
Internet: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu


From dean@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paige Dean <dean@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: glazing over sandblasted surface?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 13:10:17 GMT
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I have searched via deja-news for info but finally deciced to post, I am 
a regular on rec.woodworking but this is my 2nd time here so I hope I'm 
not posting this question for the 314th time this week...

I restore old (40's-50's) woodworking equipment- planers, etc. I am not 
satisfied with my finish of blasted parts. The castings are sprayed at 
time of manufacture with some kind of building primer and when I blast 
the parts I am down to the raw casting. I use Sherwin Wms Acrylic Enamel 
and Jet-Seal primer. Sometimes I use glazing putty but that is a real 
pain. The autobody supply house said I could use an epoxy primer but I 
would have a lot of sanding. The guy who blasts my stuff is a propane 
outfit so he uses coarse sand and a lot of pressure. I am thinking of 
finding someone who uses corn cobs, pecan shells, etc. I have used a 
tumbler bead blaster at an automotive machine shop but still have the 
rough as-cast surface. Also, some of these parts are cast aluminum. 

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

PD



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:48:31 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
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The fact that he is overflowing with work, but barely afloat suggests
that he is working too cheap.

If he is winning a lot more than 50% of the jobs he bids, then he is
probably working below market value.  He at least needs to raise his
rates to the point where he is not overflowing with work.  In
addition, he is going to occasionally screw up and really underbid a
job now and then....this needs to average out with some gravy jobs now
and then.  Make damned sure he charges extra for "rush" jobs etc.

The suggestion of hiring a clerical assistant to work at billing and
tax related work  is excellent.  I have never met a good craftsman who
was worth a damn at that stuff.   If he can make $30/hour  turning
handles, then paying somebody $12/hour to free up some handle turning
time is a good deal.   There are plenty of CPAs become housewives who
would welcome a part time job.   One more thing that such help can
bring is the ability to actually "see" how well he is bidding his
jobs...yes, he has a "gut feeling" now, but some hard numbers would do
a lot to improve those instincts over time.

In addition, The fact that he is working alone can serve to RAISE his
overhead...hows that?  Well do you really want your A#1 tool and die
maker spending even 15 min. sweeping the floor? how about 2 hours
calling around looking for cadmium sheeting?  

Minimum wage help can cut stock, de-burr parts, sweep floors, deliver
finished work, call around looking for oddball stock, answer the
damned phone, make the coffee, take a deposit to the bank etc.  If he
is truly working alone, then the top paid guy in the company is doing
all that stuff now.  Yes, dealing with personnel issues takes time,
but all told , he is probably spending a TON of time on mindless,
knuckle dragger tasks now.

The fact is, even, a lot of machining jobs are pretty
mindless....don't be suprised if the kid hired to clean toilets is
soon doing some simple lathe work.....This gives the boss more time to
work on the tight tolerance, high dollar jobs.

The one place he can't cut corners if he hires help is
insurance...somebdy could get a helluva cut, just cleaning swarf off a
lathe. and we all know that the per capita number of digits in a
machine shop is a number less than 10.

-KF-



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blue Ridge number needed
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:01:38 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Doug Palmer <ecad81@email.mot.com>

Doug Palmer wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if anyone out there knows the phone #/address of
> Blue Ridge. They sell lots of tools, including lathe tools. That's all I
> know about them.
> 
> Doug

1-304-562-3538

Paul in AJ AZ


From appel@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: appel@primenet.com (Steve Appel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interested in metalworking...where do I go first??
Date: 13 Jun 1996 20:53:04 -0700
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In article <4pdmp3$8j@news.chattanooga.net>, robmccoy@chattanooga.net wrote:

> I am very interested in pursuing metalworking as a hobby/art.  I am
> especially interested in casting metals and my wife enjoys
> cutting/soldering to make small pieces.  Are there any definitive
> books or catalogs on the subject or locations on the Net I should
> check out?

i would ck out a jr. college or adult education, they may have a cheap
class you could take.  they will teach you the safety involved in
metalworking even a sculpture class.   steve


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Nails
Date: 12 Jun 1996 19:16:56 GMT
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You might want to take a look at Fine Homebuilding adverts.  Some time in
the past, I've seen some suppliers advertising SS nails (these were 
ring-shank) for some corrosive environment.

If no current supplier is advertising, another bet would be to give a call
or a letter to the folks at Taunton Press.  

Pete Brooks



From Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk (David E.Hockin)
Subject: Re: Anyone machined Teflon?
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 09:45:55 GMT
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Take care not to let the teflon get hot - it gives off toxic 
fumes if you do.

Dave.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk     | "my thoughts are mine alone, and not
			   |  those of the University"
G4UGT                      |
                           | But I wouldn't mind betting they've
                           | someone working on that already!
------------------------------------------------------------------


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 01:00:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Thought I'd mention, all you need to get a 7475a plotter to work on your
Mac is an Imagewriter 1 cable and Macplot Pro. It works great. I've handed
off about 16 of them from Boeing salvage to freinds and family. To use a
7550a you need a gender switcher on the end of the cable. Don't try to
connect it to the one that looks right, but instead you need to connect it
to the other one using the afor mentioned gender switcher. I have one of
the few 7550 + 's that has shown up down there, and it runs great. To get
Macplot Pro check with a local drafting supply shop that offers a plotting
service. Some of them give it away to allow you to generate Plot files for
them to print for you.
It just happens that it is a fully function, if older, version.
New Macplot costs about $400, so use the free one.

I still have four 7475a's from their last price drop, and I have yet to
find homes for them. 

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 14 Jun 1996 00:59:57 -0400
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Looking for other smiths ?

There's always one hiding somewhere in here.


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:41:09 GMT
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bir-al2-16.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Jun 12  3:41:09 PM CDT 1996

In <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome
<wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes: 
>
>Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out that
>it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate the 
>degree settings required to get any number of divisions.  Then you
>don't need index plates for the rotary table.
>
I really have to disagree at least from the perspective of a
clockmaker.  It would be totally impractical to read off degrees
directly from the rim of a rotary table with sufficient accuracy, and
certainly impossible to interpolate the arcminutes.  In clockmaking,
and gearmaking generally, there has to be accuracy to a few arcminutes
or better.  In the old days it wasn't done with worm gear 40:1 or 60:1
ratios but was done with large index plates with rows and rows of holes
(e.g. a circular row with 120 holes, a circular row with 150 holes,
etc), and the making of these plates was rather excruciating work. 
Today such plates (mostly about 6" diameter) can be bought from
specialist clockmaker tool suppliers, rather expensively, and some
people do index directly with them.  Personally I can't imagine getting
by without my worm gear table, with its own (smaller) index circle
plates coupled to the worm gear. 

                --Alan Heldman



From appel@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-11.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip193.prc.primenet.com!user
From: appel@primenet.com (Steve Appel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why are welding machines so expensive?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 20:56:02 -0700
Organization: Appel's Bolt People
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <appel-1306962101300001@ip193.prc.primenet.com>
References: <4ovink$h83@epx.cis.umn.edu> <mschech-0606961711330001@syru55-213.syr.edu>
X-Posted-By: ip193.prc.primenet.com

In article <mschech-0606961711330001@syru55-213.syr.edu>,
mschech@som.syr.edu (Mike Schechter) wrote:

> In article <4ovink$h83@epx.cis.umn.edu>, phil@ (Phil Roban) wrote:
> > Why do welding machines (TIG, MIG) cost so much durn money?
> > Coming to welding from electronics, even the largest of
> > these machines seem to be power supplies with certain characteristics,
> > e.g. constant current or voltage, arc starter.
> > Perhaps the time has come for the NetWelder
> > Cheers.
> > Phil Roban
> Well, Stick welders which are basically as you describe ARE cheap.
> my little wonderfulness gave me a lincoln 225 amp one for xmas.
> It was only $213
> Not a whole lot. Go and price large multi-tap transformers.
> MIG & TIG are more complex.... I think (in TIG anyway) the
> arc restrikes at 100's of Hz per second
> Huge amounts of dv/dt at large amperages.
> I don't know how they build 'em.

i bought a used machine for stck and tig, got the torch, water pump and guages,
and machine for under $1000.00  a co. called price club has units for
under $200.00


From xcprhb@oryx.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.eng.convex.com!news.oryx.com!xcprhb
From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Grizzly G4000 & G4003 lathes
Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:29:49 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 27
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4pn9bt$8fv@lm1.oryx.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

Does anyone have any experience w/ these?  I contacted Grizzly for 
detailed specs and got back a sheet giving only the most general
information.  On top of that, the bottom of the sheet stated

"All specifications are deemed accurate, but not guaranteed"

If they won't guarantee the specification of swing, center distance
etc.  What does that say about the accuracy of the machine?

Of course, the real howler was the thickness planer spec that claimed
13,500 cuts per minute from 3 blades spinning at 5000 rpm.  I guess
some of the blades only work part time ;-)  In this case, the bottom 
of the page asserted:

"All specifcations are accurate, but subject to change without notice."

Thanks,

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

                       Consultant/Programmer 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jrl@versaform.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!EU.net!Norway.EU.net!nntp.uio.no!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!news1.best.com!nntp1.best.com!jrl
From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Diamond" toolholder?
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 06:06:33 GMT
Organization: Applied Software Technology
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4pqvh9$2l8_001@nntp.best.com>
References: <4pp019$ocr@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jrl.vip.best.com
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4pp019$ocr@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>,
   congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:
>                    
>(Posting for John Haddy, who seems to be receiving this newsgroup but
>is temporarily unable to post to it): Any opinions and comments on the
>Diamond Toolholder, a tangential tool bit holder for lathes? I gather
>from the ad that only a single face needs to be ground on the bit, with
>the toolholder itself holding the bit so that all reliefs are ok.  Am I
>correct in assuming that the support of the bit assures that there is
>more mechanical strength and less chatter?  (I would be using it on a
>Myford 7).
>
I read the articles in HSM about the tangential etc., but I didn't understand 
it.  Seems to me that from the point of view of the work, the cutting edge 
looks just like that of a standard bit.  The neat way of grinding on the 
end would economize on bits, but it would take quite a few bits to come out 
even against nearly $100 for the toolholder.

incidentally, there was an article once (in ME?) about "tangential cutting of 
tapers" that featured a cutting tool like a knife blade, set with the long 
axis parallel to the lathe axis, but at an angle to the horizontal, so that it 
contacted the work at only one point.  tangential like peeling an apple.  



--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!news.nstn.ca!ott.istar!istar.net!winternet.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 12 Jun 1996 10:51:35 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4pm7fn$ag9@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <gdermer.834005004@ichips.intel.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com><8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <gdermer.834005004@ichips.intel.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com>
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In message <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> - xlch58@netcom.comMon, 10
Jun 1996 15:00:05 GMT writes:
:->
:->Len Turnbow (quartlow@netcom.com) wrote:
:->
:->: O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
:->: between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
:->: Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
:->: -- 
:->:                                              quartlow@netcom.com
:->
:->  Different purities.  Same as gold,  14k is more expensive than 10k.
:->Welding O2 would have more impurities I suppose than medical.

That's what a person would think, but welding oxygen is pure O2,
medical Oxy is a mix of O2 and nitrogen. The reason is that pure
oxygen used for medical purposes is dangerous, anything flammable in
the area could burn violently,  and  pure oxygen would hyperventilate
the person it's being used on. (This info from a paramedic)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From ama@marley.East.Sun.COM Tue Jun 18 10:30:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!laslo.netnet.net!en.com!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!samba.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!eastnews1.East.Sun.COM!walters.East.Sun.COM!marley!ama
From: ama@marley.East.Sun.COM (Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is this material from soldering iron.
Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:38:45 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4pn9sl$sed@walters.East.Sun.COM>
References: <4og9v9$eve@zoom2.telepath.com> <4ohnr4$g3a@news1.io.org> <4p5smh$ao6@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: marley.east.sun.com

>In article <4ohnr4$g3a@news1.io.org>, Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org> wrote:
>>Damon Brantley (brantley@telepath.com) wrote:
>>
>>Probably mica sheet, it is used in a lot of heaters that have to operate 
>>fairly hot.
>
>I've taken apart several Wellers, and I'm pretty sure that the material
>is Mica

Most likely.  As an aside, if you look at the label on that "sparkle" 
toothpaste your 5 year old uses you'll notice that the sparkles are made 
>from  mica...

Strange, but true.  BTW, My kids no longer use sparkle toothpaste...

--Al Amaral--
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Al Amaral				  Al.Amaral@East.Sun.COM
"G'day, and welcome to All Things Delta.  If it's not Delta, IT'S CRAP!" 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rabarker@shore.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tezcat.com!news.ner.bbnplanet.net!news3.near.net!shore!news
From: rabarker@shore.net (robert a barker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 12 Jun 1996 22:33:03 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
Lines: 75
Message-ID: <4pngiv$m1f@shore.shore.net>
References: <31BE3782.7897@netlabs.net>
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In article <31BE3782.7897@netlabs.net>, osan@netlabs.net says...
>
>Hi folks,
>
>I need some help and I think this may be the place to get it.
>
>I have a friend, Stefan, that has a machine shop.  He's a very
>capable machinist and does very good work, so much so that he's
>unable to do all the work people want of him.
>
>Most folks would think that this would be an enviable position
>to be in and under "normal" circumstances I'd agree, but in 
>Stefan's case it's not so good.
>
>This guy's busting his hump to the point where everyone around him
>is seriously afraid he's going to drop dead or worse, become 
>extremely ill some day soon from all the stress.
>
>I've known quite a few good machinists over the course of my life
>and in fact I grew up with the finest instrument maker to have ever
>walked this earth and the one thing they've all told me that in this
>business you have to be doing something VERY wrong to not make very
>good money.
>
>Well Stefan, despite his endless volume of jobs, must be doing
>something WAY wrong because he's barely paying his bills to the
>point that for FY 1995 he had to pay his federal taxes from loans
>off credit cards, which I'm sure you'll all agree is a way bad thing.
>
>My suspicion is that he is grossly undercharginh for his work but I'm 
>not absolutely certain.  Therefore I'd like to ask those experienced 
>folks out there how might I determine the precise nature of the problem.
>Also, do any of you know of any fairly well defined methods for pricing
>out jobs?  I suspect he just eyeballs the parts and spits out numbers
>off the top of his head without giving the prospect its due 
>consideration.
>
>Also, Stefan does nothing but special short runs (a job shop if you 
>will) and I strongly feel he needs to start considering CNC capabilities
>(he gets approached all the time for CNC jobs abd has to turn them down
>because he doesn't have the equipment).  I've suggested he do a middle
>man routine by handing CNC jobs off to his CNC buddies and adding a few 
>percent premium to the price of the job but he seems reticent (saidhe's 
>afraid of chasing things like this, leaving his machines idle).  Any
>ideas on how this might be done effectively?  Also, anyone know any good
>sources for leasing CNC equipment, perhaps used?  Any opinions on what
>might be a good choice for, say, screw machine type jobs?  Any insights
>are welcome.
>
>Stefan is technically very adept but he is not a businessman of any
>reasonable caliber.  He does very good work but is missing something
>in his way of doing business.  Someone with his experience should,
>AFAIK, be making a very comfortable living rather than working themself
>to death, barely keeping his nose above water.
>
>Any help you folks can afford is be greatly appreciated.  You'd be
>helping save what I believe to be an essentially sound business and
>quite possibly someone's life.  I'd really hate to see it all go up
>in chapter 11 flames but I think it's getting close; it would be a real 
>sad shame.
>
>Thanks again.
>
>        -Andy V.

  I have owned and run a small machine shop for the last 13 years.This is 
my second shop.I owned and operated the first one from 1950 to 1955 when 
I sold it.

   I may be able to help?????

   Please E Mail me with more details if interested.

 Bob Barker   rabarker@shore.net (robert a. barker)



From rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!ulowell.uml.edu!aspen!rondeauda1
From: rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: BridgePort Series 1 = cnc ?
Date: 12 Jun 96 16:22:55 -0500
Organization: Univ. of Massachusetts-Lowell
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.162255.1@aspen>
NNTP-Posting-Host: aspen.uml.edu



	Does anyone know of a company that retrofits BridgePort Series 1
	millers to have cnc capabilities?  Good/bad points to consider?



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.214211.14773@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960612075711.19171A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:42:11 GMT
Lines: 14

In article <Pine.OSF.3.91.960612075711.19171A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>,
Michael Latcha  <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu> wrote:
>Having heard no bad things about any Sherline equipment, and being
>perfectly happy with all of mine (lathe, milling column, almost all of the
>accessories), the tone of your post seems strangely negative. 

I failed to see any of the faults that you did in the post - I saw
it as an honest "tell me about the warts" sort of request.  Nothing 
wrong with this request at all.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From liming@meridiantc.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!bcm.tmc.edu!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!meridiantc.com!usenet
From: Gary Liming <liming@meridiantc.com>
Subject: Engraving
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Could someone give me some advice as to how to get started in engraving brass, 
nickel, and silver with respect to gunsmithing?  I have seen some engravers at 
shows (I think they were driven by compressed air) and I have seen one advertised 
that uses a flexible shaft motor.  Is there a good entry way of doing this for 
less than a few hundred?  I know that a simple hammer was what they used, but I 
plan to do a lot of this, and I would like to be able to do it while I can still 
see.  The hand way looks like it would take longer than I have.  IF there is a 
"getting started" FAQ for this, I would like to know.  Thanks.


From ole.steen@login.eunet.no Tue Jun 18 10:30:41 EDT 1996
Article: 29692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!mr.net!winternet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!nntp.uio.no!Norway.EU.net!usenet
From: "Ole Steen" <ole.steen@login.eunet.no>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:43:36 +0200
Organization: Private
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <01bb5899.d24fb420$040f47c1@pcs42p>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1085

Your friend has probably struggled for ages to make ends meet. It has 
been obvious to him that increasing his prices would save his business,
but never the less he continues as always. This is not resolved with a
simple advice, but is more deep rooted in your friend's personality.I
suspect that he lacks the courage and self respect it takes to ask a fair
price for his work. He may be unreasonably strict towards himself, maybe
feeling that his performance must be perfect, and charging himself instead
of the customer for any little delay or unforseen expence.

Ole

 


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 08:04:09 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 31
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In-Reply-To: <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net> 

Felice:

Having heard no bad things about any Sherline equipment, and being
perfectly happy with all of mine (lathe, milling column, almost all of the
accessories), the tone of your post seems strangely negative.  If you
really don't want a Sherline mill, for whatever reason, then don't buy
one.  You will never be happy with it if you really didn't want it or
thought you could trust Sherline, or their equipment, in the first place. 
If what you really want is a mill/drill, then look hard for a used one
that you can afford or try to talk the money fairy into a grant. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Felice Luftschein wrote:

> The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
> mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are happy
> with theirs. Also, if I do get one, is the 5400 model with the extra y axis
> travel worth the extra $125? Call me paranoid, but I just don't trust
> the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
> negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill
> for about $500 in the Willamette valley of Oregon, I would probably want that 
> instead.
> Thanks
> 
> 


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:08:27 +0100
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Chris Kantarjiev writes
>
>Ah, but wait ... won't the backlash in the drive train
>completely alter the tool's position? That's what I didn't understand
>the first time through. Backlash.

Back the tool out for running back.  Wind it in again before next cut.

You still don't *need* instant reverse for this, it just may be a bit
quicker.
-- 
Charles



From fbngraph@indy.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fbngraph@indy.net (Walter Daniels)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:35:45 GMT
Organization: IndyNet - Indys Internet Gateway
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In article <4ou0pv$lqc@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) wrote:
>Randall Gray wrote:
>>#rant on
 < Some irrelevancies snipped here.>
>
>Historically I don't think black powder rifle barrels were ever bored out
>of solid stock.)

  Don't ask me the name, as it was in 1977-79 time period, but I watched a 
movie on rifle making at Colonial Williamsburg. IIRC, the maker forged an iron 
barrel as basically round stock. That means it started as approxciamtely round 
and had flats filed onto it. It was then drilled in some cases, in others 
forged around a mandrel. Again, IIRC, it was usually drilled and then rifled ( 
a most interesting process). While the mandrel process was better, it required 
resources not always available to settlers.
>
>--RC


%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 Walter Daniels  FBN Graphics - The place where your mug says what YOU want!
 Custom orders cheerfully done on quality coffee mugs, with no minimum order.
 You can order quantites of 1 to 100 for use by individuals, club, etc.
 For info contact:  fbngraph@indy.net    http://www.digiserve.com/fbngraphics/
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 18 10:30:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:53:36 GMT
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>Bill Watson wrote:
>> 
>> I am tired of using a hand saw for my occasional metal projects.  Any one have
>> any feed back on the grizzly 4x6 saw for $199 or any reccomendations? It will
>> be used for the occasional home project cutting 1.5" angle and pipe.
>> 
>> Bill Watson

In article <31B9EBB2.44D@ix.netcom.com> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>I got one of the many 4 X 6 bandsaws being offered (Enco) and sure wouldn't be without 
>it...  I had heard that the 4x6 saws were rickety and read an article where someone 
>beefed up the legs w/plywood.  I hadn't felt that to be necessary.  Broke a few 
>blades-due no doubt to my adjusting it...  Write out the check, get out the VISA,
>or whatever.  Everyday you wait is one less day you'll have to use it..

I agree with Paul Pierce. Although they are cheap, they are effective, low 
cost and everyone I know makes good use of it. I have one and also a 14" 
vertical, but the 4 x 6 horizontal does a lot of routine cut off work. I wish 
someone had convinced me to buy one on day one, for $200 you get your money's 
worth. Buy a good quality blade (like Starrett) for it. I use 120 FPM for mild 
steel and structural angle, pipe etc.


--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 18 10:30:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 19:29:22 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 33
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In rec.crafts.metalworking, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes:
>Bruce Conner wrote:
>>My info about barrels drilled from solid stock comes from a book by Ned
<things snipped here>
Ya know, It just occurred to me that I've heard something on this
gun barrel subject somewhere before which is what I was going to
say here then it occurred once more to me, "Where did I hear what
I was about to say".  Actually I think I heard it here.  Is there
a big mirror out in the sky that bounces these subjects back to earth
so that they get repeated every now and then on this media?

Anyway, what I was going to say is I had heard there was a tour
through some high quality British sporting rifle company where
they come to point and a company representative take a brand new
hand made rifle out of a rack and bends the barrel (how I don't
know, maybe in a press).  He hands it over to one of their
expert barrel straighteners and this guy puts it back in as-
good-as-new straightness.  The expert straightener just uses
his eyeball and looks through the barrel and does it on an
intuitive basis (maybe using a press again).

Don't ask me if its true.  I know I didn't dream it (or did
I?). I heard it somewhere and I dont read any gun magazines
so I probably heard it here.  Who told this story?  Are you
listening?

What this must mean is when you get through pounding and
drilling then you got to start looking and bending.  Got
to read the rest of the articles and go home before it gets
too late.

later,
ken, bethesda, md


From looselid@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: looselid@aol.com (Loose Lid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Parts Source For TOYO Lathe
Date: 14 Jun 1996 03:39:45 -0400
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I'm trying to find a parts source for a Japanese lathe called a TOYO
ML-360. It has a 6 in. swing and is about 14 in. between centers. It
appears to be well made with a nice three jaw chuck. It is similar in
appearance to an EMCO 5. It came to me with the owners manual and parts
list with an extensive list of options. I have been unable to find a
dealer or anyone who has heard of it. Any info you can give me on this
lathe, especially a source for those parts, will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 18:33:54 -0400
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  If you want to find them so you can fix them why not just paint all
suspect
areas with a two component epoxy paint? This may be a bad idea if
you are using really low preasures (possible outgassing) or high temps.  
  There used to be an "arts & recipies" section in the old (30 years ago)
Handbook of Chemistry and Physics that covered such things.

Cliff Huprich


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 18:35:46 -0400
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In article <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein) writes:

>if people out there are happy
>with theirs.

I have both the 3" and 5" mills. I have been extremely happy with them. I
have a CNC conversion on the larger machine and I feel that the extra
travel is definetly worht the extra money in my application. I use the CNC
machine almost daily in a commercial application have cut all sorts of
materials from chrome vanadium to soap. The most important thing to
remember is that the Sherlines are SMALLmachines and they make SMALL
chips. I cut mainly aluminum and plastics, but have on occasion used the
machines for operations they were not really designed for. I have replaced
the X and Y leadscrew nuts and backlash nuts with custom pieces that I
designed and manufactured on the Sherline lathe. This modification has
really slowed down the wear and the number of adjustments that I had to
make to keep the machine operating without excessive backlash. We use the
machine to perform modifications mainly, but have used it to produce
prototype parts as well. recently we ran about 2300 pcs of  glass filled
polycarbonate parts using a high speed (29K) spindle (also custom) and a
Sumitomo Tin coated Solid Carbide end mill to perform a modification. 

I give the highest recomendations for the Sherline machines, accessories,
and their service.  But if the machine is not of the proper size for the
parts you want to make, no sense in beating a dead horse. 

Bill



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 12 Jun 1996 12:14:35 GMT
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Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out that
it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate the 
degree settings required to get any number of divisions.  Then you
don't need index plates for the rotary table.




From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 12 Jun 1996 21:02:04 GMT
Organization: bnr
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In article <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome
<wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote:

> Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out > that
it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate > the degree
settings required to get any number of divisions.  > Then you don't need
index plates for the rotary table.

Great! I have a universal indexing head and can't figure out how to divide
383 (without making a 20T gear).

I can just see the screw-up following a table that long. And you wonder
why the sector was invented. 8^)

Daryl


From msda+@andrew.cmu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael D Sohn <msda+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Sherling lathe
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:25:17 -0400
Organization: Doctoral student, Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
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I'm interested in buying a used Sherline Lathe with the 24'' long bed. 
I live in Pittsburgh.

thanks,
Mike


From walter@physics7.berkeley.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walter@physics7.berkeley.edu (Walter K. Stockwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 13 Jun 1996 00:23:40 GMT
Organization: UC Berkeley
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NNTP-Posting-Host: physics7.berkeley.edu

Two thoughts.

"If you've got too much business, then you're either too cheap,
or too good. And no one's too good."  Make him raise his prices
until he has the amount of work he wants.

Sounds like he wants a *job* not a business.  If he doesn't like
handling business things, he should either hire someone to do it,
or go work for a company.  He'd probably work less, and get benefits
if he signed on with a company.  :)


-- 
That bird was my bird --	__
	or some vile copy.     {^^}              Walter Stockwell
				\ \              walter@physics.berkeley.edu
				{  -}


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning grooves in faces
Date: 13 Jun 1996 05:05:03 GMT
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Bill of Lading (nuke@netcom.com) wrote:
: brass, 4" across.  The plans call for a  groove to be turned into one
: side of the disk, with an outside diameter of 1 3/8"  and a cross
: section of 1/8" square. A friend of mine with some machining
: experience made  a tool for me, basically a 1/8" wide flat bit, with
: sufficient relief on the bottom to clear the cut groove.  No matter
: what I try, however, I get a large amount of chatter and the tool
: keeps catching in the work and gouging itself in. The top of the tool

Ah, yes.  This sounds all too familiar.  On a heavy 16" lathe, using a
tool like that would work just fine.  I have a 10" Atlas, a light lathe
even for 10".  I couldn't do any better than you are doing with that tool.
I would have to use a narrower tool, and work it in a little, say .050"
deep on one side of the groove, then move over a little and go .050" deep
on the other side.  Repeat until near the desired depth.  Make the two
sides total less than the .125" finished width of the groove.  When you
are near the full depth, then make a final pass - down one side, across
the bottom, and up the other side.  The tool should have a profile that
has a little relief on the side cutting edges, too.  Brass definitely has
that 'grabbing' tendency - something to do with instant work hardening
as the cut begins to gouge.  Aluminum can do this, too, but with much
less dramatic results.

I have made some changes to improve the rigidity of my lathe.  I adjusted
the babbit bearings to minimize free play in the spindle.  I changed the
sloppy lantern-style tool post to an Aloris knockoff by Phase-II, which
made the most difference.  I located a butchering job on the guides on the
bottom of the saddle, that permitted the saddle to lift up off the bed if
pressure was applied in the right direction.  This caused occasional
mayhem during cutoff work or other work involving heavy infeed pressure.
I re-shimmed the guides to prevent the saddle from lifting.

Using whatever is necessary, be sure narrow tools are well supported,
and either put another tool blank under small tools or minimize tool
overhang from the toolpost.  This grooving operation is similar to the
conditions present with a cutoff tool, ie. a flat-front tool cutting a
wide chip deep in a groove.  This used to give me fits.  A slow speed,
consistent infeed, minimum tool overhang and LOTS of LUBE seem to be
the secrets, as told by many contributors in this group when the subject
came up about 6 months ago.  Using that collected wisdom, I have had the
best results doing cutoff work on my Atlas.  I have also been fixing
problems in the lathe, so I don't know which avenue has led to the
improvement, but I think it applies to your problem.

In doing cutoff work, the recommendations were: slowest non-back gear
speed.  Since your groove is 1 3/8" diameter, you might want to use a
back gear speed.  I think the lots of lube advice helped more to clear
the rolled-up chip that forms on the cutoff tool in steel, but you should
at least try it.  I have always observed that any turning which
creates a wide chip is prone to vibration.  You can cut a fairly DEEP chip
without vibration, but the very thin, wide chip will vibrate severly!
This builds up once started, as the wavy surface the vibration caused 
comes around under the tool for the second (third...) time.  I'm pretty
sure that the natural frequency of the lathe structure is involved,
because whether I'm turning really fast (over 1000 RPM) or in back gear,
the frequency of the sound the lathe makes during vibration always seems
to be about the same.  Once when using a long boring bar, mounted at its
center, I was getting a high frequency vibration.  Noting the different
frequency, I stuck a large turning tool in the open position on the
OTHER END of the boring bar, and the vibration stopped!  A very
interesting discovery!  The free end of the boring bar was ringing like a
one-armed tuning fork.  (Just a little anecdote to get you thinking about
causes of vibration.)


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: highspeed steel vs.carbon steel
Date: 12 Jun 1996 12:14:56 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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I think there might well be two questions being asked
here, rather than the one.

1) Is "carbon steel" (whatever the hell that is. I mean
   there are entire (and fairly large) books with
   desriptions of different "carbon steels". In fact
   of course, high speed steel is carbon steel. It is
   a particular carbon steel but most importantly a carbon
   steel with a particular heat treatment. And there are a       
   number of different HSS.) or HSS better for taps?

2) Are the taps that I am likely to find that are made out
   of "carbon steel" (see above) better or worse than the
   taps made of HSS?

I would submit, and every book I've seen on the subject
agrees (and that's why I would submit) that if you are tapping
holes by hand (nonproduction) than the correct "carbon steel"
is better than HSS for taps or dies. It's tougher, stronger,
and harder than HSS, if it is the CORRECT "carbon steel",
so long as you don't get any part of it up over about what,
400F? So, the answer to question 1 is, "Carbon steel is
better for nonproduction tapping." BUT......

For a lot of reasons that (I think anyway) mostly have to
do with marketing and production savings from only having
to do one kind of heat treatment, "carbon steel" taps tend
to be cheaply made and not as good as HSS taps. But this is
not always the case.... you can buy Greenfield carbon steel 
dies, for example, that are atleast as expensive as
imported HSS dies and will outlast the HSS dies (in 
nonproduction environment) many times over.

You might look at Leo StClair's, The Design and Use of
Cutting Tools, or Tool Steel Simplified by Carpenter Steel 
(mentioned previously) for more information. But in general,
the ONLY thing that HSS gives you over a different carbon
steel is red hardness. And you don't care about that with
a tap or a die, if used by hand.

IMHO of course :-)

/Charlie
for example, that are 



From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 13 Jun 1996 13:51:52 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4pp6do$pba@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <31BDB3F2.175B@gaas.enet.dec.com> <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4pna15$sbo@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <4pna15$sbo@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com> congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:
>In <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome
><wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes: 
>>
>>Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out that
>>it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate the 
>>degree settings required to get any number of divisions.  Then you
>>don't need index plates for the rotary table.
>>
>I really have to disagree at least from the perspective of a
>clockmaker.  It would be totally impractical to read off degrees
>directly from the rim of a rotary table with sufficient accuracy, and
>certainly impossible to interpolate the arcminutes.  In clockmaking,
>and gearmaking generally, there has to be accuracy to a few arcminutes
>or better. 
>

I've seen a couple of articles on making index plates for dividing
heads.  You can use a rotary table or spin index fixture to place 
the holes on the plate.  If I've done the math correct (no guarantees 
this morning), if you can get the holes to within 1/2 degree of where 
they're supposed to be, the worm reduction will reduct the error to 
.015 degree (that's close to 1 arc minute, isn't it?) on the dividing 
head which is something like .0015 inch on a 6 inch radius.

I'd get the rotary table and build the dividing head (or buy one of
the MSC sale ones) when I really needed it.  Unless you have a really
big angle plate (well, even if you do), get a rotary table that can be 
mounted either horizontally or vertically as other folks have pointed
out.  It will make life easier.

--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From osan@netlabs.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:42:17 -0400
Organization: Eventide Forge
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <31C01AB9.32D5@netlabs.net>
References: <4pnn2c$qrs@agate.berkeley.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dyn39.netlabs.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win95; I)

Walter K. Stockwell wrote:
> 
> Two thoughts.
> 
> "If you've got too much business, then you're either too cheap,
> or too good. And no one's too good."  Make him raise his prices
> until he has the amount of work he wants.
> 	Trying.

> Sounds like he wants a *job* not a business.  If he doesn't like
> handling business things, he should either hire someone to do it,
> or go work for a company.  He'd probably work less, and get benefits
> if he signed on with a company.  :)

	He WANTS a business but is better at having a JOB.  He's
	not going to give up the business until either it kills
	him or he goe under, so telling him to get a job is like
	telling the same to a 2X4.  So the only thing to do is make
	the business work as it should.

	There's got to be a way and I will find it.

	-Andy V.


From dobedave@usa.pipeline.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dobedave@usa.pipeline.com(Dobe Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell vertical mills?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 10:13:44 GMT
Organization: Pipeline USA
Lines: 62
Message-ID: <4pm58o$9kp@news2.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
References: <4pkag2$hqu@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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X-Newsreader: Pipeline v3.5.0

On Jun 11, 1996 17:30:42 in article <Rockwell vertical mills?>,
'cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)' wrote: 
 
 
 
>Someone just pointed me at a Rockwell 21-200 that might well do the 
>job; the size and weight are about right, and the price of $1250 
>is in the ballpark (though I haven't yet found out what tooling 
>is included). It's even in California, albeit in SoCal - 500 miles 
>is a lot easier to deal with than 3000.  
> 
>I don't know anything about these machines - anyone got experience 
>with them they'd care to relate? 
 
I have the Rockwell mill & I have used it for 20 yrs. It's a very good 
small mill. it uses R8 collets, unlike the other. 
It's just like a bridgport but smaller. 
 
 
-- 
Dobe Dave & the Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes) 
Doberman page (URL) http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/ 
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Jun 18 10:30:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.campus.mci.net!news.uky.edu!lamarck.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!DTNET43-137.dt.navy.mil!hanrahan
From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: UNF?? Thead Form Question
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:49:01 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <hanrahan.163.31BF3B4D@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <4ovas9$p70@katana.legend.co.uk> <4p0hr1$bes@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4p1aar$s4s@news-e2b.gnn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dtnet43-137.dt.navy.mil
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Someone wrote:

>>> All UNxx thread forms are 60 degree, non-truncated forms.  Both the
>male and female threads are cut with a 60 degree tool, that comes to a
>full point. <<

In article <4p1aar$s4s@news-e2b.gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:

>Sorry, but I think you may be mistaken.  UN series threads ARE
>truncated.  According to Machinery' Handbook, the crest of an external
>UN thread is truncated by a height of .125H, the root by .1667H.  An
>internal thread is truncated .25H on the minor diameter and .125H on the
>major diameter. H=cos30*pitch

I agree with Scott. The full "V" thread was the old American National thread 
form which has been superceded by the Unified National.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 13 Jun 1996 05:22:05 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Demon Buddha (osan@netlabs.net) wrote:
: Well Stefan, despite his endless volume of jobs, must be doing
: something WAY wrong because he's barely paying his bills to the
: point that for FY 1995 he had to pay his federal taxes from loans
: off credit cards, which I'm sure you'll all agree is a way bad thing.

: My suspicion is that he is grossly undercharging for his work but I'm 
: not absolutely certain.  Therefore I'd like to ask those experienced 
: folks out there how might I determine the precise nature of the problem.
: Also, do any of you know of any fairly well defined methods for pricing
: out jobs?  I suspect he just eyeballs the parts and spits out numbers
: off the top of his head without giving the prospect its due 
: consideration.

Well, if he's alone there, his overhead should be within reason.  But
he's probably not charging his customers for the WHOLE job.  He should
charge for :
1:	talking to the customer about the job
2:	calling around to get material and any special tools, ie. cutters
3:	setup of job, making fixtures, etc.
4:	I'm sure he is charging for the actual cutting of metal, etc.
5:	clean up and checking of parts
6:	tear-down of setup and clean up of machine
7:	billing, packing and shipping time

I am new to this end of the business, as well.  I do electronic systems,
and have often just given my customers drawings of the cabinets, panels,
etc.  Recently a customer had a backlog at their shop, and so I needed
to cost out the metal work for that.  I underbid it by a mile!  I figured
out the time involved in the metal cutting, but just completely ignored
all the other items above - and they added up to MUCH MORE than the actual
cutting time.  Of course, I did a really high-class job, and the parts fit
together vastly better that what my other customers had been doing, but
the time estimate (and consequently, the pricing) was WAY low.

I can't imagine how one guy could do all the things that need to be done
to keep a regular machine shop going.  You need to keep track of material
and tool orders, to make sure you have the stuff when you need it.  You
need to bill your customers, and MAKE SURE they PAY!  You may also have to
fish for work, although that doesn't seem to be the problem here.  And
you have to do all that DAMN paperwork for the state and federal tax
people.  In my work, I can work for 2-3 months on one job, so the clerical
stuff doesn't really eat into my time too much.  But the clerical end of
things could amount to a whole lot, if he is doing 2 or 3 separate pieces
a day. That could be 15 separate invoices generated a week, or 60 a month.
That can easily occupy a full-time assistant!

My guess is that your friend isn't getting paid for half or more of his
work, because there is no time to do the paperwork and check records for
what hasn't been paid (or even billed for).


From strollo@ycc.kodak.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!dnaco.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!newsserver.rdcs.Kodak.COM!newsserver.rdcs.kodak.com!strollo
From: strollo@ycc.kodak.com (Larry Strollo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 16:47:52 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company
Lines: 231
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <STROLLO.96Jun12124752@ruby.ycc.kodak.com>
References: <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ruby.ycc.kodak.com
In-reply-to: David W Hoskin's message of Tue, 11 Jun 1996 07:07:33 +0100


David;

Here's some info I got from the HP web page when I was trying to get a
7575a and a 7550a working with my mac.

Also see http://www.hp.com

Larry Strollo


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Cable Pin-Outs for Hewlett-Packard Plotters

 The following RS-232 Cable Pin-Outs are for IBM PC Compatibles and the
 Hewlett-Packard Desktop and Large Format Plotters.



 9 Pin
 Hewlett-Packard part-numbers HP 24542G Female to Male
                              HP 24542H Female to Female*
                              *(Use with the 7550 Plotters)
 Plotter                                  Computer
 ===================================================================
 Request to Send        4 ----------- 1   Rec'd Line Signal Detect
 Transmit Data          2 ----------- 2   Receive Data
 Receive Data           3 ----------- 3   Transmit Data
 Clear to Send          5 ---|------- 4   Data Terminal Ready
 Data Set Ready         6 ---|
 Signal Ground          7 ----------- 5   Clear to Send
 Data Terminal Ready   20 -------|--- 6   Clear to Send
                                 |--- 8   Data Set Ready
 Data Carrier Detect    8 ----------- 7   Request to Send



 25 Pin
 Hewlett-Packard part-numbers HP 17255D Female to Male
                              HP 17255F Female to Female*
                              *(Use with the 7550 Plotters)
 Plotter                                  Computer
 ====================================================================
 Signal Ground          1 ----------- 1   Signal Ground
 Transmit Data          2 ----------- 3   Receive Data
 Receive Data           3 ----------- 2   Transmit Data
 Signal Ground          7 ----------- 7   Signal Ground
 Data Terminal Ready   20 -------|--- 5   Clear to Send
                                 |--- 6   Data Set Ready
 Clear to Send          5 -------|---20   Data Terminal Ready
 Data Set Ready         6 -------|



            Copyright  Hewlett-Packard Co. 1993
   The information contained herein is subject to change
                      without notice.
   Hewlett-Packard shall not be liable for incidental or
  consequential damages in connection with the use of this
                         material.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DESKTOP PLOTTER INTERFACE CONVERSIONS

The interface on desktop plotters can be changed between Serial (RS-232),
Centronic (Parallel) and HP-IB by replacing the main PCA.  The following
table lists the parts required to make the interface conversion.

 |-----------------------------------------------------------------------|
 |                HP ColorPro      HP p/n        HP p/n     HP 7550 PLUS |
 |  Convert to: | (p/n 7440A) |    7470A    |    7475A    |    7550B     |
 |--------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|
 | Serial       |             |             |             |              |
 |==============|             |             |             |              |
 |     Main PCA | 07440-68101 | 07470-60121 | 07475-68101 |              |
 |   Rear Panel | 07440-00101 |  7121-2495  | 07475-00011 |              |
 | Standoff (2) |  0570-1316  |  1251-7828  |  1251-7828  |              |
 |              |             |             |             |              |
 |--------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|
 | HP-IB        |             |             |             |              |
 |==============|             |             |             |              |
 |     Main PCA | 07440-68102 | 07470-60122 | 07475-68102 |              |
 |   Rear Panel | 07440-00102 |  7121-2497  | 07475-00012 |              |
 | Standoff (2) |  0380-0644  |  0380-0644  |  0380-0644  |              |
 |   Washer (2) |  2190-0034  |  2190-0034  |  2190-0034  |              |
 |              |             |             |             |              |
 |--------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|
 | HP-IB/Serial |             |             |             |              |
 |==============|             |             |             |              |
 |     Main PCA |             |             |             | 07550-68240  |
 |   Rear Panel |             |             |             | 07550-00031  |
 | Standoff (2) |             |             |             |  1252-0699   |
 |   Washer (2) |             |             |             |  2190-0577   |
 |              |             |             |             |              |
 |--------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|
 | Centronics / |             |             |             |              |
 | Serial       |             |             |             |              |
 |==============|             |             |             |              |
 |     Main PCA |             |             |             | 07550-68241  |
 |   Rear Panel |             |             |             | 07550-00032  |
 | Standoff (2) |             |             |             |  2190-0577   |
 |   Washer (2) |             |             |             |  1252-0699   |
 |              |             |             |             |              |
 |--------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|

The parts above may be ordered by calling HP Support Materials Organization
at 800-227-8164.  It is recommended that the installation be performed by
HP service-authorized technicians.  To find an authorized service dealer in
your area call 800-752-0900.            



            Copyright  Hewlett-Packard Co. 1993
   The information contained herein is subject to change
                      without notice.
   Hewlett-Packard shall not be liable for incidental or
  consequential damages in connection with the use of this
                         material.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Dip Switch Settings for the HP 7440, 7470 and 7475 Plotters
-----------------------------------------------------------

Set Dip Switches as defined below for a particular setting

Parity Selections:

  Desired Setting   Switch Setting
  ===============   ==============
     No Parity         S1=0 S2=0
     Odd Parity        S1=1 S2=1
     Even Parity       S1=1 S2=0

Paper Size:

  Desired Setting           Switch Setting
  ===============           ==============
  English 8.5 x 11 in       US/MET=1 A3/A4=0
  Metric 210 x 297 mm (A4)  US/MET=0 A3/A4=0

Baud Rates:

  Baud Rate        One Stop Bit         Two Stop Bits
 ==============|=========================================
  Dip Switches |    B4  B3  B2  B1       B4  B3  B2  B1
 --------------------------------------------------------
  External     |    --  --  --  --        0   0   0   0
     75        |    --  --  --  --        0   0   0   1
    110        |    --  --  --  --        0   0   1   0
    150        |     0   0   1   1       --  --  --  --
    200        |     0   1   0   0       --  --  --  --
    300        |     0   1   0   1        1   0   1   1
    600        |     0   1   1   0        1   1   0   0
   1200        |     0   1   1   1        1   1   0   1
   2400        |     1   0   0   0        1   1   1   0
   4800        |     1   0   0   1        1   1   1   1
   9600        |     1   0   1   0       --  --  --  --
               |
  =============|=========================================

The configurations below set the plotters for the following settings:

  Baud   = 9600
  Parity = None
  Paper Size = U.S. 8.5 x 11 inches
  Operating Environment = Direct (For 7475 and 7470 only)


Color Pro
7440 Dip Switch Settings           7470 Dip Switch Settings

 S2 = 0                             S2 = 0
 S1 = 0                             S1 = 0
 US = 1                             Y  = 0
 B4 = 1                             US = 1
 B3 = 0                             B4 = 1
 B2 = 1                             B3 = 0
 B1 = 0                             B2 = 1
                                    B1 = 0


7475 Dip Switch Settings

 S2 = 0
 S1 = 0
 Y  = 0
 US = 1
 A3 = 0
 B4 = 1
 B3 = 0
 B2 = 1
 B1 = 0

Self-test instructions

7440   -   Press the Enter and Paper Load keys while turning on
           the plotter

7470       Press the Pen-Up key while turning on the plotter.
           The self-test will repeat itself approximately every 4
           minutes until the power is turned off and back on
           after running the initial self-test.

7475       Press the P1 and P2 keys simultaneously while turning
           on the plotter. (The plotter will make a slight
           grinding noise, which is normal.)
            
            
            
            
            Copyright  Hewlett-Packard Co. 1993
   The information contained herein is subject to change
                      without notice.
   Hewlett-Packard shall not be liable for incidental or
  consequential damages in connection with the use of this
                         material.


--

LMS

==========================================================================
Larry Strollo          Digital & Applied Imaging     Eastman Kodak Company 
lms@kodak.com                                     Rochester, NY 14653-5400
==========================================================================


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Engraving
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.210408.14401@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <31BE0A13.7B12@meridiantc.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:04:08 GMT
Lines: 16

In article <31BE0A13.7B12@meridiantc.com>,
Gary Liming  <liming@meridiantc.com> wrote:
>Could someone give me some advice as to how to get started in engraving brass, 
>nickel, and silver with respect to gunsmithing?

Your best bet would be to get a catalog from Brownell's (address/phone
in the FAQ) and to look over their offerings in the area of engraving
tools and books.  That should let you know the costs and capabilities
involved.  I don't think that you'd want to start with a power tool
for engraving anymore than you want to start with a power checkering
tool for stockwork.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.211420.14507@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4pcgu8$sli@cletus.bright.net> <31BDB3F2.175B@gaas.enet.dec.com> <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:14:20 GMT
Lines: 22

In article <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com>,
Steve Wellcome  <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote:
>Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out that
>it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate the 
>degree settings required to get any number of divisions.  Then you
>don't need index plates for the rotary table.

In general, though, the precision for that would be less than that
available from a 40 turn dividing head (comparing dividing heads with
rotary tables not using index plates).  The difference might not
matter for bolt hole patters or low speed gears, but above that I
believe that it might well matter.

I prefer a DH for the reason that mine takes a 5C collet and has 3 and
4 jaw chucks.  A table is better for large radius stuff and rounding
the ends of material, but I can fake the last using a pin in my table
vise.  It's hard to use a rotary table for gear making.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:12:40 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4pp0jo$ef2@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4pi5fc$4ld@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lbsc.shr.dec.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)
To: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com

With a 3-phase motor, "instant" can be pretty instantaneous.

For industry (with real 3-phase power), people quite often
push reverse/off to stop the motor, so the machine will stop
quickly.  After all, time is money and all that.

In a home shop...who cares?




From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:52:56 -0500
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On 13 Jun 1996, Paul Amaranth wrote:
<snip>
> 
> I've seen a couple of articles on making index plates for dividing
> heads.  You can use a rotary table or spin index fixture to place 
> the holes on the plate.  If I've done the math correct (no guarantees 
> this morning), if you can get the holes to within 1/2 degree of where 
> they're supposed to be, the worm reduction will reduct the error to 
> .015 degree (that's close to 1 arc minute, isn't it?) on the dividing 
> head which is something like .0015 inch on a 6 inch radius.
> 
> I'd get the rotary table and build the dividing head (or buy one of
> the MSC sale ones) when I really needed it.  Unless you have a really
> big angle plate (well, even if you do), get a rotary table that can be 
> mounted either horizontally or vertically as other folks have pointed
> out.  It will make life easier.
> 
Right Paul.  And if you still need more accuracy from your dividing plates,
use the first set to make a second set.  Then your accuracy will start to
be a function of the clearances in the dividing head and the quality of
your tools.

John



From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Tue Jun 18 10:30:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 06:46:36 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
Lines: 16
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xlch58@netcom.com wrote:
> 
> Len Turnbow (quartlow@netcom.com) wrote:
> 
> : O2 is O2, right?  I don't understand the difference
> : between 'medical grade' and 'welding grade'
> : Would someone please enlighten me?   Thanks.  -- Len
> : --
> :                                              quartlow@netcom.com
> 
>   Different purities.  Same as gold,  14k is more expensive than 10k.
> Welding O2 would have more impurities I suppose than medical.

At least one outfit here buys only the medical grade, and sells for the
regular price unless specified medical(then you pay more). They say it
is more economical and less hassle than needing two setups.


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 12 Jun 1996 23:09:32 GMT
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If your friend doen't want the hassel of charging more for his work maybe he should consider 
hiring someone to do the billing and work orders, a business manager. Cheers Bob



From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning grooves in faces
Date: 12 Jun 1996 23:26:12 GMT
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In message <nukeDsv4LG.9uI@netcom.com> - nuke@netcom.com (Bill of
Lading) writes:
:->
:->Hello All:
:->
:->I am currently in the process of turning some brass disks to use as
:->the ends of some cylindrical RF cavity filters.  The disks are 1/4"
:->brass, 4" across.  The plans call for a  groove to be turned into one
:->side of the disk, with an outside diameter of 1 3/8"  and a cross
:->section of 1/8" square. A friend of mine with some machining
:->experience made  a tool for me, basically a 1/8" wide flat bit, with
:->sufficient relief on the bottom to clear the cut groove.  No matter
:->what I try, however, I get a large amount of chatter and the tool
:->keeps catching in the work and gouging itself in. The top of the tool
:->is flat (correct for brass, right?) and the front has about 15 degrees
:->relief. 
:->
:->I see such grooves all the time in vacuum equipment and such, so there
:->must be a good way to do this cut. Am I on the right track?

Try a negative rake on the tool, ~7-10 degrees, and turn the piece as
slow as possible(my lathe goes down to 39 RPM, which is still too fast
sometimes). Make sure you hold the bit as close as possible to the
cutting end, to eliminate flexing.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:24:23 -0700
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Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
> 
> In article <4pp0jo$ef2@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
> > With a 3-phase motor, "instant" can be pretty instantaneous.
> >
> > For industry (with real 3-phase power), people quite often
> > push reverse/off to stop the motor, so the machine will stop
> > quickly.  After all, time is money and all that.
> >
> > In a home shop...who cares?
> >
> >
> 
> Well, that's what I'm trying to figure out. Given that the use of instant
> reversing feature is to stop tapping, it might matter a lot!
> 
> The real question is whether I need to spring the extra money for
> an instant reversing motor (which I'll likely have to buy new) or
> will be happy with a good used cap-start motor.

With a threaded spindle and a large workpiece I don't think an instant
reverse is smart.  I heard of a fellow who almost lost a foot when a
large workpiece and chuck fell on him.  What's a few seconds?  
I'm sure a camlock would not present that problem however.

Paul in AJ AZ


From carlgrin@scott.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carlgrin@scott.net (Carl Grinnell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WindChimes - my kids want to build HELP
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:49:40 GMT
Organization: Scott Network Services, Inc.
Lines: 33
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   The best sounding windchime I ever heard was made out of EMT
(electrical metalic tubing), which is a lightwieght version of
electrical conduit.   EMT has a zinc coating which weathers to a dull
gray so this wasn't the prettiest chime I have ever seen but it sure
sounded good.

  I would suppose the key to a good sounding chime is having each
chime exactly the right length to make the proper tone.

   The chimes I am referring to were supported by heavy monofilament
passed through two holes drilled about 1/4" to 3/8" from one end of
each chime.  By being that close to the end of the chime, the support
strings probably had very little effect on the tone of the chimes.

   If I can find more specific directions I will Email you and post to
this group.


                                                        Carl  Grinnell


Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote:

>Well, I "designed" the wind chimes I built by measuring a commercial
>set.  Both the location of the suspension holes and the length of the
>tubes are important.  I made mine out of that cheap hardware store
>1" diameter aluminum tubing.  It doesn't sound as good as the 
>commercial wind chimes, which use better tubing, but it's okay.  I
>also made a set out of 3/4" copper tubing, which sounds better.






From jwcercis@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Small X-Y Fixture
Date: 13 Jun 1996 14:33:06 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Small X-Y Fixture
Dovetail Slides with Adjustable Gibs
Cast Iron Construction

Base is 4 X 4.5 Inches.
Height is 3 Inches plus a raised section on the top surface which
    could be milled off flat.
Weight is about 16 Pounds.

Y Axis Travel about 1 Inch
18 TPI Feed Screw with Knob on End

X Axis Travel about 2 Inches
8 TPI Square Thread Feed Screw with Brass Nut
Feed Screw Driven Through Right Angle Gears .  Hand Crank is located 
    next to Y Axis knob.


I have always been going to use it to make a fixture on a pedistal grinder
for sharpening woodworking tools (plane irons), but have never gotton
around to doing so.

Asking $35 plus UPS.

Please Respond to jwcercis@aol.com


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:30:40 -0600
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>I don't know whether a welder provides DC or AC .

They come both ways.  Transformer AC - DC welders are fairly common 
anymore.  Why didn't you tell us you had access to a welder? 8-)

rhg

>I want to attach a graphite crucible on one electrode and a carbon rod as the
>other which arcs on the metal to be melted.
>Is this a better approach ?
>
>Klaas
>




From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:34:19 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4ppmvb$r85@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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I think your paramedic is wrong.  I use oxygen for general anesthesia and 
it is certified and tested by everbody from the vendor to me at the time 
of use as 100% O2.  The anesthesia machine has an O2 tester built into 
it.  

rhg



>
>That's what a person would think, but welding oxygen is pure O2,
>medical Oxy is a mix of O2 and nitrogen. The reason is that pure
>oxygen used for medical purposes is dangerous, anything flammable in
>the area could burn violently,  and  pure oxygen would hyperventilate
>the person it's being used on. (This info from a paramedic)
>
>pdrumm@dwave.net
>Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
>Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
>All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
>




From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:41:41 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
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References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

>
>Is there anything deliberate in welding oxygen ?  I know that motor
>racing nitrous oxide has a noxious additive (sulphur dioxide) added to
>prevent people sniffing it as laughing gas.
>

No.  O2 doesn't have any abuse potential.  I suspect and I emphasize, I 
don't know this for certain, but I suspect that the Medical O2 and the 
welding O2 may be transported around the country as one material.  We get 
O2 at the MEDCEN as LOX.  The truck that delivers is doesn't say anything 
about Medical on it.  I think the cost has more to do with the liability 
associated with medical use than it does with the relative purity of the 
product.  Anybody here have any definitive knowledge here?  You're just 
paying the guy for sticking his neck out and certifying the purity.

rhg


From blake@ncweb.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.4x4
Subject: Re: Sears Compressors
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:53:43 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 24
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In article <1996Jun10.170737.4031@news.wrc.xerox.com>,
andrew_forte@mc.xerox.com (Andrew B. Forte) wrote:

}I have a 5 year old Sears compressor that is doing beautifully.  It is
}5hp, 30 gal.  It has sand-blasted and painted two station wagons.  It
}regularly gets used for an air pump and sheet metal shears.
}
}I have only had one complaint, it needs "more power".  (grunt, grunt,
}grunt)  I can not get the necessary psi and cfm out of it to run a
}1/2" drive Ingersol Rand air gun.  It can't get enough air to take
}lugnuts off a car.
}
}I would only trade it for a bigger Craftsman compressor.
}

Why would you only trade for a bigger Craftsman?  These compressors are
"home-owner" quality and are not built as good as more industrial,
American-made machines.  I know a Craftsman will probably do what the
better machines will do- but for a much less amount of time.  And probably
with less dry and less oil free air, because they work too hard and get
too hot.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From sld@nikodyne.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: how to id a P&W jig borer
Date: 13 Jun 1996 05:11:31 GMT
Organization: nikodyne technologies
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i'm interested in an older pratt&whitney jig bore but cannot find
any markings other than the name.  does anyone know what to look
for to identify this machine?

-- 
_________________________________________________________________
Steve Davis <sld@nikodyne.com>**Nikodyne Technologies**Atlanta GA
pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BridgePort Series 1 = cnc ?
Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:23:53 -0400
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Check with the good people at AhHa, They have been very helpful to me over
the past couple of years.  I have several machines running on their
software and hardware as well as a couple of machines using different
hardware. 

I believe that they also offer ballscrew kits for Bridgeports as well.

Their phone number is: 612-641-1797

Bill


From rparker7@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rparker7@ix.netcom.com (Roy Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:02:11 GMT
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On 12 Jun 1996 20:35:45 GMT, fbngraph@indy.net (Walter Daniels) wrote:

>In article <4ou0pv$lqc@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) wrote:
>>Randall Gray wrote:
>>>#rant on
> < Some irrelevancies snipped here.>
>>
>>Historically I don't think black powder rifle barrels were ever bored out
>>of solid stock.)
>
>  Don't ask me the name, as it was in 1977-79 time period, but I watched a 
>movie on rifle making at Colonial Williamsburg. IIRC, the maker forged an iron 
>barrel as basically round stock. That means it started as approxciamtely round 
>and had flats filed onto it. It was then drilled in some cases, in others 
>forged around a mandrel. Again, IIRC, it was usually drilled and then rifled ( 
>a most interesting process). While the mandrel process was better, it required 
>resources not always available to settlers.
>>
The barrel also required straightening, which was done (from the docs
I have) by eye.  They would ream the bore, rifle and polish it.  Then,
by sighting down the bore, see where the crooks were, and either bend
it or hammer it until it was straight.  This was apparently done by
eye.    I've never done it, but have to admit I've tried my hand at
several similar old timey skills.  I'm convinced that the skilled old
timers could do excellent work by eye and experience that we today can
only do with very expensive machine tools.  

They had the capability, but it was awfully expensive since every part
had to be made by hand.

Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power hacksaws
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:07:44 GMT
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Actually, the blade that came with the saw lasted
for quite a few square inches of steel.  I've 
actually been a bit disappointed with the Starrett
blades I bought from a professional supplier.

Probably a fluke.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From ecad81@email.mot.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Palmer <ecad81@email.mot.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blue Ridge number needed
Date: 13 Jun 1996 03:35:14 GMT
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I was wondering if anyone out there knows the phone #/address of 
Blue Ridge. They sell lots of tools, including lathe tools. That's all I 
know about them. 

Doug




From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lathe spart parts for sale or trade
Date: 14 Jun 1996 18:26:49 GMT
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Along with my 9" SB came several bits and pieces that clearly
don't belong and unfortunately don't fit. I'm ready to trade
them to a commercial outfit, but they'll give me less than
I might get by selling to someone who wants them (and
ultimately charge that person more than I would).

I've got a face plate, follower rest and steady rest, and some
change gears. They're in generally good shape, painted a 
grayish light blue. There's some guess that they might be from
a Logan (the seller had also had and sold a Logan and thought
these were left over from that). They're all in very good condition.

The details:

Face plate: 8.5" diameter, threaded 1 1/2-8. 8 slots with
ribbed back. Has "9-365" cast into it.
(This fits my spindle, but the edge of the plate interferes
with a foot at the end of the headstock; I contemplated milling
off the edge, but it seems like sacrilege.)

Follower rest: Plain jaws (one missing) with bolt adjusters.
Cast ID is "S209". Sorry, I didn't measure the mounting holes. 

Steady rest: Bolt adjusters, no jaws. Cast ID is "L3-326". 
Space between the ways is 3"; the forward way is flat, and the
rear looks to be a small half-round (this *should* identify it;
I can't imagine that there are many lathes with round ways).

Change gears: random sampling up to 72 teeth, 12 pitch, 5/8 bore with key.

All reasonable offers considered.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 17:41:16 GMT
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In article <4pp0jo$ef2@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
> With a 3-phase motor, "instant" can be pretty instantaneous.
> 
> For industry (with real 3-phase power), people quite often
> push reverse/off to stop the motor, so the machine will stop
> quickly.  After all, time is money and all that.
> 
> In a home shop...who cares?
> 
> 

Well, that's what I'm trying to figure out. Given that the use of instant
reversing feature is to stop tapping, it might matter a lot!

The real question is whether I need to spring the extra money for
an instant reversing motor (which I'll likely have to buy new) or
will be happy with a good used cap-start motor.


From david@hoskin.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:30:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:57:52 +0100
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Hi Everyone,

Very many thanks to all of you who sent e-mails or who posted here.  As
a result of your generous help I am now up and running.  Even when I had
everything configured correctly it still didn't budge until I checked
the "Fast printing direct to port" box in WindowsFWG 3.11 printer setup.
Its clearly an elderly plotter, but the results are spot on.  Thanks
again. 
--                    
Regards,              **************************************************
David Hoskin          The business of finding fault is very easy: that
East Yorkshire, UK    of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
                      **************************************************


From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: coloring pewter
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 14:20:04 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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Try casting one set in pewter and one in aluminum.  Or perhaps one in
brass and one in aluminum.  Cast both in aluminum and anodize!
Paint them like pewter toy soldiers.  

Just some possibilities.


John


On Fri, 14 Jun 1996, Larry Ludwick wrote:

> I am a complete novice to metal work and I am playing with casting
> pewter.  I am interested in making a chess set, but am not satisfied
> with simply having different colored bases for the pieces.
> 
> I was wondering if it's possible to color pewter to make it look like 
> bronze.  Or, if not bronze, then a noticeably different shade.
> 
> Any comments, hints, or suggestions appreciated,
> 
> Larry
> 
> 


From john@siu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: glazing over sandblasted surface?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:49:46 -0500
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Spend a few hundred bucks for a bench-top bead blaster cabinet and bead
blast the parts.  You might try using automotive primer/surfacer.  It is
a much heavier product that is designed to fill small surface imperfections.
It can then be smoothed with sandpaper and sprayed to get a first class
finish.  

John


On 13 Jun 1996, Paige Dean wrote:

> I have searched via deja-news for info but finally deciced to post, I am 
> a regular on rec.woodworking but this is my 2nd time here so I hope I'm 
> not posting this question for the 314th time this week...
> 
> I restore old (40's-50's) woodworking equipment- planers, etc. I am not 
> satisfied with my finish of blasted parts. The castings are sprayed at 
> time of manufacture with some kind of building primer and when I blast 
> the parts I am down to the raw casting. I use Sherwin Wms Acrylic Enamel 
> and Jet-Seal primer. Sometimes I use glazing putty but that is a real 
> pain. The autobody supply house said I could use an epoxy primer but I 
> would have a lot of sanding. The guy who blasts my stuff is a propane 
> outfit so he uses coarse sand and a lot of pressure. I am thinking of 
> finding someone who uses corn cobs, pecan shells, etc. I have used a 
> tumbler bead blaster at an automotive machine shop but still have the 
> rough as-cast surface. Also, some of these parts are cast aluminum. 
> 
> Any advice will be greatly appreciated!!
> 
> PD
> 
> 
> 


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:30:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WindChimes - my kids want to build HELP
Message-ID: <1996Jun14.082926.23675@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 14 Jun 96 08:29:26 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4ppkbf$khk@news.scott.net>, carlgrin@scott.net (Carl Grinnell) writes:
|>   The best sounding windchime I ever heard was made out of EMT
|>(electrical metalic tubing), which is a lightwieght version of
|>electrical conduit.   EMT has a zinc coating which weathers to a dull
|>gray so this wasn't the prettiest chime I have ever seen but it sure
|>sounded good.
|>
|>  I would suppose the key to a good sounding chime is having each
|>chime exactly the right length to make the proper tone.
|>
|>   The chimes I am referring to were supported by heavy monofilament
|>passed through two holes drilled about 1/4" to 3/8" from one end of
|>each chime.  By being that close to the end of the chime, the support
|>strings probably had very little effect on the tone of the chimes.
|>
|>   If I can find more specific directions I will Email you and post to
|>this group.


Please note there is a section on this in the FAQ.  For example, the
"proper" placement of the support holes is not at the very end of the
chimes.

The FAQ is available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal
directory (question 39, in part 8).  Or, indirectly via
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From bharbour@teleport.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bharbour@teleport.com (Bob Harbour)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 00:48:31 GMT
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Bob Harbour (bharbour@teleport.com) wrote:
: David W Hoskin (david@hoskin.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: >  Can anyone tell me what the DIP switch settings are?
: suggest you set the switches on the rear panel to: B3,B1 closed, 
: B4,B2 closed for 9600 bd, one stop bit.

That should be B3,B1 closed, B4,B2 open. yesterday was a REAL long day.
Sorry.

currently dining on crow,
--
Bob Harbour
bharbour@teleport.com 


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Diamond" toolholder?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:58:12 -0700
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To: "Wm. Congreve (Sr.)" <congreve@ix.netcom.com>

Wm. Congreve (Sr.) wrote:
> 
> 
> (Posting for John Haddy, who seems to be receiving this newsgroup but
> is temporarily unable to post to it): Any opinions and comments on the
> Diamond Toolholder, a tangential tool bit holder for lathes? I gather
> from the ad that only a single face needs to be ground on the bit, with
> the toolholder itself holding the bit so that all reliefs are ok.  Am I
> correct in assuming that the support of the bit assures that there is
> more mechanical strength and less chatter?  (I would be using it on a
> Myford 7).

Two writeups on the Diamond Toolholder in latest HSM.

Interesting...

Paul in AJ AZ


From bobfa@comm.mot.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bobfa@comm.mot.com (Bob Fairbairn)
Subject: Auto Darking welding helmets
Organization: Motorola LMPS
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:35:42 -0600
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I am interested to know if you can use the autodarking welding helmets
when welding with oxyactelyn torch?  Do the helmets "grey out" or do they
switch to arc welding dark?  What are the good brands?

Bob Fairbairn

-- 
"The meek shall inherit the Earth.  The rest of us                  will go to the stars." -- Heinlein? 


From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:30:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 00:30:04 -0600
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In article <4pn4jc$l30@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, clhuprich@aol.com
(Clhuprich) wrote:

>    In general these tanks have a coating on the inside to resist rust --
> you
> may wish to inspect the inside of yours.
> 
> Cliff Huprich

Umm, Cliff--I'm having a little trouble getting the light down inside
there. Got any hints please?

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From clhuprich@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: N/C programmer needed in France
Date: 13 Jun 1996 13:57:05 -0400
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  An N/C programmer is wanted for a contract assignment in France.
Unigraphics-II and fluent French language skills are required. If
interested
call Scott at Volt Technical Services, Salem, NH 800/852-8658 for more
information.

Cliff Huprich


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HSS grades of toolbits, lathe
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:05:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Jun 13  5:05:51 AM PDT 1996

(Again, posting for John Haddy, who is receiving this newsgroup but is
temporarily unable to post to it):

I would like to solicit opinions on the best composition of lathe tool
bits for general home use.  Given a random mixture of mild steel,
silver steel, brass and aluminium as run-of-the-mill stock, I'd like to
settle on one composition of toolbit, so all I''ll have to do is grind
correct reliefs for the mateial at hand.

I have the following tool bit options readily available from local
stockists:

M2 Tungsten-Molybdenum HSS
M42 Tungsten-Molybdenum-Cobalt HSS
M100A Molybdenum-Cobalt-Vanadium HSS

         Thanks
 


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "Diamond" toolholder?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 12:02:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Jun 13  5:02:49 AM PDT 1996

                    
(Posting for John Haddy, who seems to be receiving this newsgroup but
is temporarily unable to post to it): Any opinions and comments on the
Diamond Toolholder, a tangential tool bit holder for lathes? I gather
>from  the ad that only a single face needs to be ground on the bit, with
the toolholder itself holding the bit so that all reliefs are ok.  Am I
correct in assuming that the support of the bit assures that there is
more mechanical strength and less chatter?  (I would be using it on a
Myford 7).




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:26:30 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <31C04F46.4C0@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4pnn2c$qrs@agate.berkeley.edu> <31C01AB9.32D5@netlabs.net> <4ppd59$3e0@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
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To: Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B <kferguson@aquilagroup.com>

Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B wrote:
> 
> The fact that he is overflowing with work, but barely afloat suggests
> that he is working too cheap.
> ....

He could work at a job for $15/hour and be ahead of himself working 
selfemployed for $30/hour!  I went that route.  Noone paid me for 
holidays, vacation, sweeping my floor,etc.  I had to supply equipment
(Stefan has to own a lathe, mill, etc., etc....), pay the employers share of social 
Security, insurance, etc...  When I had a job all I supplied was my lunch bucket and 
some hand tools...


> ........time is a good deal.   There are plenty of CPAs become housewives 
>who would welcome a part time job.   

My dad was a one man shop and his books were a mess...  I was looking at
them one night  and saw that one customer hadn't pail him for 3 years and
Dad was still working on jobs for that customer.  Turned out that Dad had
not sent the customer a bill in all that time!!!  Customer was NOT happy
when he got the bill.

We hired Charley to come in for 4 hours once a week, things immediately
turned around.  Dad's invoices were sent out, bills were paid promptly,
and everyone was happier.

>One more thing that such help can
> bring is the ability to actually "see" how well he is bidding his
> jobs...yes, he has a "gut feeling" now, but some hard numbers would do
> a lot to improve those instincts over time.
> 
> -KF-

Paul in AJ AZ


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:32:13 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 40
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John Dammeyer wrote:
> 
> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
> >Michael Jones wrote:
> >>
> >> cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com> wrote:
> [snip]
> >>
> >> You can see a video of how to use a centerfinder at the MIT machine tools
> >> site. It's always helpful to *see* someone actually use one.
> >>
> >> Sorry I don't know how to make it a proper clickable url.
> >>
> >> http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/mill/intro.html
> >>
> >> Mike Jones
> 
> >Mike it came out clickable...  Looked like it could be a real
> >fantastic net page.  I couldn't view the video.  Netscape says
> >I need a plugin viewing software.  I'll try one of these days.
> 
> >Thanks for the address...
> 
> >Paul in AJ AZ
> 
> Super video.  I always wondered how they work.  Now I've seen it.
> 
> BTW.  Just above the /mill/ directory they have the rest of the
> machine shop videos.  Some are a bit short but overall the quality is
> excellent.
> 
> John.

John::  Mike: Someone:

What viewer should I get to view the videos on this...
Netscape does not work without a plug-in.  But what plugh-in?

Paul in AJ AZ


From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:30:59 EDT 1996
Article: 29747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blue Ridge number needed
Date: 13 Jun 1996 11:54:14 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
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References: <4po29i$qmi@brokaw.comm.mot.com>
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Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools Inc.
PO Box 536
Hurricane, WV  25526

Tel (800) 872-6500  or  (304) 562-3538
Fax (304) 562-5311

Tell them Logan Actuator sent you (they are one of our customers).  They
are real good folks to deal with.

 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From carlgrin@scott.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:00 EDT 1996
Article: 29748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carlgrin@scott.net (Carl Grinnell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning grooves in faces
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 18:05:39 GMT
Organization: Scott Network Services, Inc.
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   From your description it sounds like the disk is flexing and this
is the cause of your chatter.

    There are many ways to mount a disk so that it won't chatter.

Use double sided carpet tape to mount the disk to a heavier plate.
Solder it to a plate.
Loctite might work??
Make a presser, a disk with a center drilled hole in it that can
press the disk against a backup plate mounted in the lathe chuck.
The presser will be just smaller than the groove that you have to cut
and the presser and backup plate can have a dowel pin to align them
and the brass disk.

                    Carl Grinnell


nuke@netcom.com (Bill of Lading) wrote:

>Hello All:

>I am currently in the process of turning some brass disks to use as
>the ends of some cylindrical RF cavity filters.  The disks are 1/4"
>brass, 4" across.  The plans call for a  groove to be turned into one
>side of the disk, with an outside diameter of 1 3/8"  and a cross
>section of 1/8" square. A friend of mine with some machining
>experience made  a tool for me, basically a 1/8" wide flat bit, with
>sufficient relief on the bottom to clear the cut groove.  No matter
>what I try, however, I get a large amount of chatter and the tool
>keeps catching in the work and gouging itself in. The top of the tool
>is flat (correct for brass, right?) and the front has about 15 degrees
>relief. 


>Thanks,
>Bill






From jwcercis@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: DC Welder Parts
Date: 13 Jun 1996 14:23:16 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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A while back, there were several postings about building a rectifier to
convert AC arc welders for DC  welding applications.  I got interested and
started scrounging parts to build a rectifier for my AC shop welder. 
Before I got too far, however, I found a good deal on a used AC-DC-TIG
welder.  I now have the following components available for someone else
interested in experimenting with making a DC arc welder:

-Inductor salvaged from a  burned out  three phase welder.  Dimensions are
about 6 X 7 X 5 inches.  Weight is about 22 pounds.   I do not know the
inductance or the current capacity, but it looks  heavy duty. 

-Laminated steel core for making inductor.  4.5 X 7 inch window opening --
Plenty of room for multiple turns of welding cable.   Magnetic section is
about 1.625 inches square.  Weight is about 25 pounds.  This steel core
was salvaged from a 2000 amp power current transformer.

-Two large capacitors.  27,000 microfared, 250 volt DC each.  Weight for
two about 5 pounds.  One posting said that capacitors would not help
filter current for a welding application, but I thought it would be
interesting to experiment.  

-Diodes and SCRs (which can be used as diodes)
    GE 1N3295 152  Diode
    GE ZJ34 FN 108  Diode 
    GE 104X125DA020 526   SCR
    Two Westinghouse 209H 325LL   SCRs
I did not get as far as finding specs, but they look like they are good
for 150+ amps. 

$50 plus shipping for the lot or best offer.

Please respond to jwcercis @aol.com



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 18:23:01 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 29
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: Usually ultrasonics are generated when something leaks.  A company
: called UE Systems makes an instrument that shifts the Ultrasonics down
: to an audible level.  

Might work pretty well near atmospheric pressure.  if you are measuring
your vacuum in inches of mercury, go for it.

The following is for high vacuum systems:

The usual way in the electronics industry is to hang a gas sensor in
the vacuum lines (generally optimized for helium) and then to rig up a
tank/regulator of He to a wand.  Set the He flow to 'low' and put the
business end near any suspect locations.  When your gas sensor goes 
*boing!* you probably found one of the leaks.

In this application, He is preferred since it'll tend to make its way through
the smallest leaks with ease.

Note that this is best for a *high vacuum* system, running at 10e-3 torr or
less.  I'd doubt that a He sensor would work at pressures much above
that.  (If dim memories of vacuum work still hold, you can use an ion gauge
as a so-so gas detector.  Since He will get through, your pressure will start
going up when you're near the leak.)

Pete Brooks






From rparker7@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:01 EDT 1996
Article: 29751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rparker7@ix.netcom.com (Roy Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmithing
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 00:48:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Any blacksmiths following this group?  Been out of touch here for
about 6 months, but used to see posts in this area back then.  Not
seeing much now.  Is there a special newsgroup I don't know about
dedicated to blacksmithing????


Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 13 Jun 1996 19:45:35 GMT
Organization: bnr
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

There is a bitnet (email) newsgroup called the forge to subscribe just
send email to;

"listproc@wugate.wustl.edu" 

in the body  (and subject?) state

"Subscribe theforge ________ " <--your name here

then you get the confirmation reply and your in and the mail piles up. 8^)

Happy hammerin
Daryl





In article <31bf650c.411113@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, rparker7@ix.netcom.com
(Roy Parker) wrote:

> Any blacksmiths following this group?  Been out of touch here for
> about 6 months, but used to see posts in this area back then.  Not
> seeing much now.  Is there a special newsgroup I don't know about
> dedicated to blacksmithing????
> 
> 
> Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
> Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
> rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 13 Jun 1996 19:09:54 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <4ppp22$3p2@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4pnn2c$qrs@agate.berkeley.edu> <31C01AB9.32D5@netlabs.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <31C01AB9.32D5@netlabs.net> Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net> writes:
>Walter K. Stockwell wrote:
>> 
>> Two thoughts.
>> 
>> "If you've got too much business, then you're either too cheap,
>> or too good. And no one's too good."  Make him raise his prices
>> until he has the amount of work he wants.
>> 	Trying.
>
>> Sounds like he wants a *job* not a business.  If he doesn't like
>> handling business things, he should either hire someone to do it,
>> or go work for a company.  He'd probably work less, and get benefits
>> if he signed on with a company.  :)
>
>	He WANTS a business but is better at having a JOB.  He's
>	not going to give up the business until either it kills
>	him or he goe under, so telling him to get a job is like
>	telling the same to a 2X4.  So the only thing to do is make
>	the business work as it should.
>
>	There's got to be a way and I will find it.
>
>	-Andy V.


I ran across an interesting article called 'Blacksmithing as a Business'
while looking for info for my horse.  Although directed at a related
occupation, I think his points hold true for any similar business.  The
URL is 

      http://www.anvilmag.com/pages/marbus.html

It's particularly interesting to see how he calculates the hourly rate
and, for that matter, the number of hours he can actually expect to
put in during a year.
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:02 EDT 1996
Article: 29754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: used steel drawer cabinets, blade shear
Date: 13 Jun 1996 22:36:23 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
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Jon Anderson (janders@oro.net) wrote:
: I'm looking for companies between Reno, NV and the SF bay area that
: deal in used business furniture, cabinets and such in particular.
: What I want are steel drawer cabinets that would readily lend themselves
: to being used for drill-tap-end mill indexes. I can find plenty of this stuff new,
: and with the annual volumne these outfits have, there just has to be somewhere
: to get the stuff used. Sources outside this area would be OK if they do catalog sales.

I was just at an auction at McDonnell-Douglas.  They had a room full of
beautiful Lista steel tool cabinets, mostly the 11-drawer style.  They
went for $800 - $1000 each, except for one that had been dropped and was
really trashed.  It went for $500!

Make sure you are sitting down when you call around for this type of gear!



From ckj@millennianet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Koll Jewellers <ckj@millennianet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bearing Races
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:59:52 -0700
Organization: Charles Koll Jewellers
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What tool does one use to cut bearing races.  Both linear and circular.  
Ball burrs don't seem to be perfectly round and I assume that the races 
need to follow the same radius as the ball bearing.  Thanks in advance 
for your help.  Dave Armstrong


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <197@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <CPEARLS.96Jun7092449@sloop.mit.edu> <196@lathyrus.win-uk.net><4ph4tm$u4@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 20:21:33 GMT
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Lines: 20

 
In article <4ph4tm$u4@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) writes:
>
>It may be cheaper to order directly from England rather than through Power
>Model Supply.  I looked at the "Kiwi" engine castings a couple of years ago,
>and as I recall the PMS prices were about 2X Woking's prices.  Of course, if
>you order directly you have to pay freight on cast iron from England (!), 
>which may be considerable, but I imagine it would still end up being cheaper
>overall.
>

I doubt that it would be that expensive - it's partly alumin(i)um,
and the whole thing is small enough be held in one hand. 

...Pause while old catalogue examined...

No dimensions for the Seal, but its 30cc big brother (Sealion) is
only 8" long, 6" high, 3.5" wide.   Everything is Al except for the
cylinder liners and maybe the flywheel.
 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:03 EDT 1996
Article: 29757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SEAL IL-4 Model
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 15:47:33 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
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References: <CPEARLS.96Jun7092449@sloop.mit.edu> <196@lathyrus.win-uk.net><4ph4tm$u4@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <197@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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To: David William Jenkins <djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net>

David William Jenkins wrote:
> 
> 
> In article <4ph4tm$u4@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) writes:
> >
> >It may be cheaper to order directly from England rather than through Power
> >Model Supply.  I looked at the "Kiwi" engine castings a couple of years ago,
> >and as I recall the PMS prices were about 2X Woking's prices.  Of course, if

Don't worry about a few bucks, more or less.  If you think you can build it,
buy one and find out....  I saw one running at an engine show in Jerome AZ.
The purrrrr of that litte 4 cylinder was fantastic...  I'm still trying
to complete a Stuart 10H steam engine.  I should live so long...  I took 5 
tries to get what seems to be a passable connecting rod...  I'm having fun though.

Paul in AJ AZ


From art@ME.uvic.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: art@ME.uvic.ca (AM 3780)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTD: Anodizing Dyes
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 17:06:16 -0800
Organization: Univ. of Victoria
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I am looking for Black (MLW), or other colors anodizing dyes. Clarion
(Sandoz) sells them only in minimum quantities of 5 kg, while I need less
than a kilo. Would anyone have an idea where I could buy lesser
quantities.

Thanks

Art

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Art Makosinski, Department of Mechanical Engineering, EOW 553
University of Victoria, Victoria, B.C., Canada, V8W 3P6
Tel:(604)721-6041, art@ME.UVic.CA,  http://www-engr.uvic.ca/~art/


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 22:15:29 GMT
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I use instant reversing when I am tapping holes 
in the lathe under power.  Or in the mill.

I think there are classes of tools/toolholders
designed for turrets where reversing the rotation
of the workpiece triggers another type of cutting
action.  I am not too clear on this.

Of course instant reversing is always great when
you get your tie caught in the chuck!

Also can unwind a thread-on chuck very nicely.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to find vacuum leaks?
Date: 13 Jun 1996 22:24:23 GMT
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Perhaps you could use the ultrasonic
leak detector that is used in Air Conditioning
service.  Basically it is just a sensitive
microphone with frequency-specific amplification.

I have no idea how expensive one might be but
if you have an AC repair shop around, they might
have one they'd rent or loan.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:04 EDT 1996
Article: 29761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Davis <Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BridgePort Series 1 = cnc ?
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:14:43 -0700
Organization: Intel Corp.
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> Check with the good people at AhHa, They have been very helpful to me over
> the past couple of years.  I have several machines running on their
> software and hardware as well as a couple of machines using different
> hardware.
> 

Do you have one of thair mill conversions?  How well does it work?  Do you find the open loop 
system they use to be a problem?  What about the backlash compinsation?

Thanks Marc


From cwthomas@pop.erols.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cw thomas <cwthomas@pop.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Blower For Iron Melting Furnace.
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:20:57 -0700
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HI;

 I'm trying to make a cupola type furnace to melt cast iron. I need a 
decent blower. If you have one youd like to sell, please email me with 
price and details. 


 Thanks;

 C.W. Thomas


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:05 EDT 1996
Article: 29763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: 13 Jun 1996 22:19:20 GMT
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Probably not a major safety issue.

Commercial applications have air compressors
in operation and the tanks under pressure
for years at a time.

Also, consider the really high pressure air
applications . . . diving tanks, submarine
air storage, Oxygen cylinders, etc.  They
do not seem to have much of a problem in
this regard.

I would drain the tank of any moisture after
each run of the compressor, however.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From babcock@infi.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (quark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly G4000 & G4003 lathes
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:19:13 +1000
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I've had a G4000 for about 6 years.   When I got it home, there was about 
0.010 run out on the three jaw chuck.  They sent me a new one with no 
problems.  The 4 jaw is a joke.  It is the same one I saw on a wood lathe in 
Sears.  I run the machine pretty hard with few complaints other than the drive 
belt set up.  Last year the pulley came off the motor.  The screw that holds 
it to the shaft must have vibrated loose and destroyed the threads in the 
shaft.  Every once in a while the motor woll not start.  I think the contacts 
for the start winding are dirty.  It looks like it has a better motor now, is 
$250 CHEAPER, and comes with the 4-way tool post that I had to pay extra for.  
I'm considering getting a G4003 as soon as I get over this broken leg.

Happy turning,  Tom



In article <4pn9bt$8fv@lm1.oryx.com> xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley) writes:
>From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
>Subject: Grizzly G4000 & G4003 lathes
>Date: 12 Jun 1996 20:29:49 GMT

>Does anyone have any experience w/ these?  I contacted Grizzly for 
>detailed specs and got back a sheet giving only the most general
>information.  On top of that, the bottom of the sheet stated

>"All specifications are deemed accurate, but not guaranteed"

>If they won't guarantee the specification of swing, center distance
>etc.  What does that say about the accuracy of the machine?

>Of course, the real howler was the thickness planer spec that claimed
>13,500 cuts per minute from 3 blades spinning at 5000 rpm.  I guess
>some of the blades only work part time ;-)  In this case, the bottom 
>of the page asserted:

>"All specifcations are accurate, but subject to change without notice."

>Thanks,

>-- 

>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>               I am solely responsible for the contents...

>Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

>                       Consultant/Programmer 
>------------------------------------------------------------------------



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill -- Will it work on small areas of large objects
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:27:27 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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In article <4poct3$2on@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman) writes:
>From: sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman)
>Subject: Sherline Mill -- Will it work on small areas of large objects
>Date: 13 Jun 1996 06:36:19 GMT

>Is it possible to work on small areas of larger objects (like
>a shotgun) with the Sherline?  I.e., the travel in each dimension will 
>be small once the work is clamped to the bed, but the work itself is a
>couple feet long.


maybe. if you want to work on the center of the long item it might work. but 
if you intend to clamp a rifle to the table with 3 or 4 feet hanging off the 
end - no way.

its a simple matter of ridgity. 




Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:06 EDT 1996
Article: 29766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Parts Source For TOYO Lathe
Date: 14 Jun 1996 13:36:38 GMT
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Busy Bee Machine Tool in Canada used to handle these.  Try area 604 
and 905 and 416.

/mark

Loose Lid (looselid@aol.com) wrote:
: I'm trying to find a parts source for a Japanese lathe called a TOYO
: ML-360. It has a 6 in. swing and is about 14 in. between centers. It
: appears to be well made with a nice three jaw chuck. It is similar in
: appearance to an EMCO 5. It came to me with the owners manual and parts
: list with an extensive list of options. I have been unable to find a
: dealer or anyone who has heard of it. Any info you can give me on this
: lathe, especially a source for those parts, will be greatly appreciated.

: Thanks.


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 13 Jun 1996 22:31:16 GMT
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You are correct in that the Basic program can
certainly calculate the settings.

However, about the tenth time around the circle,
I can be depended upon to forget some little element
of the process.

Index plates with their adjustable arms remove much
of the short-term memory requirements from the
index process.

Now, how about a stepper motor drive on the table or
dividing head, driven by the same Basic program.  
Then we won't have to worry about any short-term memory problems.

Anyone out there want to step up to that one?  I'd think
a 6"-8" rotary table would not take too much torque so
maybe an inexpensive set of electronics would do the
necessary?  Maybe even drive the power-end with a standard
lead-acid car battery?

Oh, don't forget a solenoid for the table lock.  Guess that's
just one flip-flop?

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus.



From ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com (Clay Timmons)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 14:09:30 GMT
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I'm a metalworker wannabe and yesterday I had a
little oops.  I was tapping a 8-32 hole in some
aluminum and I broke the tap off.  It broke off
nearly flush with the surface so it is not possible
to grip it with pliers to remove it.  I thought
of drilling a smaller hole in the broken off
tap and using a screw extractor.  So far that
has not worked since the tap is made of metal
much to hard to drill easily.
 


Any ideas on how to remove a broken off tap? 


Any suggestions to avoid this problem in the future?



Thanks,

Clay Timmons   ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com














From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interested in metalworking...where do I go first??
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 07:30:34 -0700
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Steve Appel wrote:
> 
> In article <4pdmp3$8j@news.chattanooga.net>, robmccoy@chattanooga.net wrote:
> 
> > I am very interested in pursuing metalworking as a hobby/art.  I am
> > especially interested in casting metals and my wife enjoys
> > cutting/soldering to make small pieces.  Are there any definitive
> > books or catalogs on the subject or locations on the Net I should
> > check out?
> 
> i would ck out a jr. college or adult education, they may have a cheap
> class you could take.  they will teach you the safety involved in
> metalworking even a sculpture class.   steve

Get a catalog from Lindsay  QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

Paul in AJ AZ


From wechtaluk_mr@corning.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wechtaluk_mr@corning.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Message-ID: <1996Jun12.130031.1493@corning.com>
Date: 12 Jun 96 13:00:31 -0500
References: <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk> <4pl1h2$7si@nadine.teleport.com>
Distribution: world
Organization: Corning Incorporated
Lines: 51

In article <4pl1h2$7si@nadine.teleport.com>, bharbour@teleport.com (Bob Harbour) writes:
> David W Hoskin (david@hoskin.demon.co.uk) wrote:
>>  Can anyone tell me what the DIP switch settings are?

I second the notion that you should get the manuals from HP! However, until
they arrive, here is some info:

Here's what the HP-7475 switches do:

S1  1 = parity  0 = no parity
S2  1 = odd     0 = even
D/Y D = direct connect Y = use an eavesdrop cable ("Y" cable)
                           between the computer and a remote computer
US/MET determines if you use US(ANSI) or European(ISO) paper sizes

The last 4 switches control baud rate and stop bits:
 
         | One Stop Bit   | Two Stop Bits |
Baud     ----------------------------------
Rate     | B4  B3  B2  B1 | B4  B3  B2  B1|
-------------------------------------------
External   --  --  --  -- |  0   0   0   0
75         --  --  --  -- |  0   0   0   1
110        --  --  --  -- |  0   0   1   0
150         0   0   1   1 | --  --  --  --
200         0   1   0   0 | --  --  --  --
300         0   1   0   1 |  1   0   1   1
600         0   1   1   0 |  1   1   0   0
1200        0   1   1   1 |  1   1   0   1
2400        1   0   0   0 |  1   1   1   0
4800        1   0   0   1 |  1   1   1   1
9600        1   0   1   0 | --  --  --  --

Recommended (by HP) settings for an IBM-PC:
  
S2 S1 D/Y US/MET A3 B4 B3 B2 B1
0  0   0    1    0  1  0  1  0

HP recommends a HP cable of course, but here are the connections assuming a 25
pin connector on the computer:

pins 2, and 3 cross connect
pin 20 on the plotter end is conected to 5, and 6 on the computer end.

Hope this helps!

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Wechtaluk       INET:  wechtaluk_mr@corning.com
Corning Incorporated    Phone: (607) 974-6569
Any opinions are my own, and do not reflect those of my employer.


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 08:11:49 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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Clay Timmons (ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com) wrote:
: little oops.  I was tapping a 8-32 hole in some
: aluminum and I broke the tap off.  It broke off
	(SNIP) Lucky you: dissimilar metals means that there are 
chemical methods that will eat out the steel and leave the al. behind. 
Not clear on details, but others here will know...
: Any suggestions to avoid this problem in the future?
	--Yes: what kind of lubricant were you using and how deep were you 
tapping??
	--Also, just how far along in the machining process was this 
piece?? Remember: sometimes it's easier to toss the whole thing and start 
over, rather than wasting the little free time we have to salvage the part...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Another proud member of 	
	COMING SOON		:	The Anti-Virus Vigilanties
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From gabriele@rand.org Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gabriele@rand.org (Mark Gabriele)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:46:53 -0700
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In article <4pm7fn$ag9@blackice.winternet.com>, pdrumm@dwave.net wrote:

> That's what a person would think, but welding oxygen is pure O2,
> medical Oxy is a mix of O2 and nitrogen. The reason is that pure
> oxygen used for medical purposes is dangerous, anything flammable in
> the area could burn violently,  and  pure oxygen would hyperventilate
> the person it's being used on. (This info from a paramedic)

Nope.  The O2 you weld with is the same stuff hospitals get, prepared via
the same method (liquefaction of air).  Medical Oxygen is 100% pure O2 (or
awfully close). The difference is in the certification.  In point of fact,
the shop that filled the tank and then "unfilled" it was probably
violating a standard by putting pristine medical O2 into a relatively
grungy welding tank and then back into the Med. O2 pool.  

 I suspect that your paramedic friend was talking about the breathing
aparatus that is carried by firemen into burning buildings.  Those tanks
contain compressed air, which isof course basically O2 / N2 + whatever (a
bit of Argon, a whiff of C02, etc.)

(This info from a physician, a fireman, and synthesized by an engineer.)

-- 
=Mark Gabriele   (PGP public key available upon request)
gabriele@rand.org

"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..."
- last words of Gen. John Sedgwick, at the Battle of Spotsylvania


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How dey do dat?  (Straighten gun barrels)
Date: 14 Jun 1996 08:00:55 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4prran$flj@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <bconner-0306961726570001@dial2-1.cybercom.net> <4p0vfa$k88@news2.delphi.com> <4pnjsiINN54l@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

>good-as-new straightness.  The expert straightener just uses
>his eyeball and looks through the barrel and does it on an
>intuitive basis (maybe using a press again).
>
>Don't ask me if its true.  I know I didn't dream it (or did
>I?). I heard it somewhere and I dont read any gun magazines
>so I probably heard it here.  Who told this story?  Are you
>listening?
>
>What this must mean is when you get through pounding and
>drilling then you got to start looking and bending.  Got
>to read the rest of the articles and go home before it gets
>too late.


Back in the early days of "Guns and Ammo" magazine they had a regular 
column by a gunsmith located out in Utah.  He seemed to know what he was 
talking about on every topic I did know something about so I trust him on 
this.  He said he straightened (I believe he said all) match rifle 
barrels after machining.  There were pictures of him sighting down the 
bore and then placing the barrel in a big manual screw type press and 
tweeking it a bit.  Anybody remember the guys name?

rhg


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.autos.4x4,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Painting
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:01:08 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.autos.4x4:47378 rec.crafts.metalworking:29774

If Canadian Air Resources Management follows the same path
as California's CARB did a few years ago, you might as well
purchase the HVLP gun.  

I purchased a production gun about 6 months before CARB made
their ruling.  Now I cannot legally use it anywhere in 
the San Francisco Bay Area.  Also, it is now illegal to spray
cars (and most other things) at home.  Fortunately one can
rent a legal spray booth for about $50-$75 per day so it isn't
too bad.  Except transporting the preped car to the boot location.

Course you cannot purchase easy to use paint here either.

Best regards,





From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 22:09:03 mountain
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In article <4p01if$lbq@news.pig.net> douglas@praxis.net (Douglas) writes:
>From: douglas@praxis.net (Douglas)
>Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling?
>Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 01:51:44 GMT

>bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) wrote:

>>I'm interested in building a black-powder rifle from scratch.  The only
>>thing I'm not able to find a lot of info on is the drilling of the solid
>>barstock for the barrel.  Yes, I know that they made welded tubes and also
>>had bars with holes forged from a doughnut shaped block, but the best
>>rifles were made from solid bar and drilled.

>>So, anybody know in detail how to do this job?  I know about gun drills
>>but there have to be a lot of tricks and kinks to using them and getting
>>everything to go smoothly.

>>I look forward to hearing from the group.


>>Bruce Conner
>>bconner@cybercom.net

>Hello.

>Look at *FOXFIRE 5*. It has a write up on flintlocks and the old ways
>of making them.
>Respectfully,

>Douglas

>                http://galaxymall.com/shops/douglas.html

A couple of years ago, I purchased a copy of "Quest for the Indian
Trade Gun", by Robert M. Heath.  I think I bought it from Lindsay.
Mr. Heath is an amateur archeologist.  He obtained about 17
samples of gun barrels from archeological sites, and analysed
the metal used the barrels, and their method of construction.
He believes that he can identify whether the barrel was French
made, English made, or Spanish made by the metal and the
method of construction of the barrel.

He states that an aquantance of his has made some sample
14" long barrels, using one of the methods he believes was
used to make the trade guns.  The method used was to fold
a bar of steel into a "U" shape, form it into a tube, and
blacksmith weld the joint.  He states "It is suprisingly
easy to forge an adequate gun barrel but most difficult to
drill the bore.  The short lengths attempted so far took
approximately two hours to forge and four hours to bore
out and straighten.".

Although the author is definitely not a profesional (author
or scientist), it was a good read.  I saved it for the Christmas
holidays I spent with my in laws in a small town.

				RJG


From rogerm@fc.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 18:20:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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Nitric Acid will disolve the tap without doing in the aluminum. It would
take about a day to do it however. You might also be able to drill it using
a solid tungsten carbide drill bit and take out the pieces.

			Roger Mitchell
			Vice President and Master Mechanic
			Fort Collins Municipal Railway 
			http://www.fortnet.org/CITY/Trolley/



From demirj@husc.harvard.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:07 EDT 1996
Article: 29777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demirj <demirj@husc.harvard.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS. Comparator &
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 13:47:07 -0400
Organization: Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts
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Subject: FS.Wilder Comparator.
 12"Wilder comparator with surface illuminator (1942 Mil. spec)$750.

 Christen  05-10 drill grinding machine capacity 
 .016 to .375 Swiss made $600.

 Bench model 2 ton power press in excellent condition,
rebuilt recently $130.









From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTD: Anodizing Dyes
Message-ID: <1996Jun14.085243.23677@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 14 Jun 96 08:52:43 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <art-1306961706160001@gb20.me.uvic.ca>, art@ME.uvic.ca (AM 3780) writes:
|>I am looking for Black (MLW), or other colors anodizing dyes. Clarion
|>(Sandoz) sells them only in minimum quantities of 5 kg, while I need less
|>than a kilo. Would anyone have an idea where I could buy lesser

Just a quick check:  did you check the FAQ? --

      (Steve Rayner reports that telescope builders like a black
      anodizing dye called Nigrosin Biological Stain, which is water
      soluble and mixed 1 teaspoon full to a quart of water;  his
      bottle is labeled Aldrich 19,828-5 and cost around $35.00 Canadian,
      for 25 grams).
 

   -  Caswell Electroplating in Miniature
      (315) 597-5140

      Reportedly has all kinds of small to medium plating supplies and is
      very helpful.

   -  Dalmar
      (941) 275-6540, (941) 275-1731 (FAX)
      http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html
      dalmar@peganet.com

      Manufacturer of electroplating equipment.

I've included Caswell and Dalmar on the assumption that an electroplating
firm might have some anodizing supplies (let me know, if you find out).

Maybe you could get 5kg minimum and split it with others?  :-)

Jim


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: TOOL GRINDER
Message-ID: <1996Jun14.232606.22703@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960614094647.142895A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> <31C17330.2139@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 23:26:06 GMT
Lines: 13

In article <31C17330.2139@ix.netcom.com>,
PPIERCE  <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Orders seem to be shipped just as fast.  Their top management
>apparently has a mission, instead of just a position.
>You may need a coaster wagon to haul that catalog around!

The only complaint I've ever had of MSC is that the catalog is really
too unweildy to take into the porcelain throne room for browsing...

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:08 EDT 1996
Article: 29780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Message-ID: <1996Jun14.152250.23693@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 14 Jun 96 15:22:49 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com>, ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com (Clay Timmons) writes:
|>I'm a metalworker wannabe and yesterday I had a
|>little oops.  I was tapping a 8-32 hole in some
|>aluminum and I broke the tap off.  It broke off
|>nearly flush with the surface so it is not possible
|>to grip it with pliers to remove it.  I thought
|>of drilling a smaller hole in the broken off
|>tap and using a screw extractor.  So far that
|>has not worked since the tap is made of metal
|>much to hard to drill easily.


Well, this is actually covered in the FAQ, available via anonymous ftp
to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal directory, and indirectly via
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal.

41.  Removing Broken Taps

     No matter how careful you are, some day you'll break a tap and wonder
     how to rescue your workpiece.  There are several solutions that have
     come up in the past.

     a.  One way is Electric Discharge Machining, discussed elsewhere.
         If you have an EDM system, you're in luck.  Alternatively try
         to find a machine shop in your area that has one and will do this
         sort of work.  The basic idea is to spark erode away most of the tap
         (if small) or at least one part of it, so the rest can be removed
         by just picking out the remaining pieces.

     b.  There are commercial tap removers that have fingers which slip
         between the flutes, so you can grip the tap and remove it.  This
         may not work well on small taps, and you have to buy the remover.
         It may be possible to build one but it might not work as well.

     c.  If the workpiece is non-ferrous (and has no other ferrous pieces
         attached or embedded), you can mix up a saturated solution of
         aluminum Sulfate at 120 degrees F, and soak the workpiece in it.
         This should dissolve the tap in a few hours (or a few days at
         room temperature).  A plastic tray such as Tupperware is best.

     d.  Another person suggested nitric acid, if the workpiece is aluminum.
         Test it on chips to be sure it won't eat the workpiece.  If the hole
         is blind, you may need to force some circulation by pouring out the
         "spent" acid and re-immersing from time to time.  Note this is
         dangerous, nitric acid is nasty stuff; this might be best done
         outdoors to avoid damage to tools from fumes.

     d.  If size permits, grind out part of the tap with a Dremel tool
         or equivalent, with a suitable grinding bit.

     e.  In some cases, you can try to simply drill out the tap.  This will
         depend on how hard the tap is (mainly the core), and how good a
         drill you have.  It may be difficult to get a good start if the
         break is irregular or slanted.  You may end up breaking the drill.

     f.  Throw away the work piece and start over.

     g.  Of course the easiest solution is to not break the tap in the
         first place.  Use proper technique, lubrication, etcetera.
         Keeping them sharp has been suggested; Darex makes a tap sharpener,
         though it may be expensive for the home shop machinist.


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 14 Jun 1996 22:02:44 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 38
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In <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu>, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) writes:
>>
>>Is there anything deliberate in welding oxygen ?  I know that motor
>>racing nitrous oxide has a noxious additive (sulphur dioxide) added to
>>prevent people sniffing it as laughing gas.
>>
>
>No.  O2 doesn't have any abuse potential.  I suspect and I emphasize, I 
>don't know this for certain, but I suspect that the Medical O2 and the 
>welding O2 may be transported around the country as one material.  We get 
>O2 at the MEDCEN as LOX.  The truck that delivers is doesn't say anything 
>about Medical on it.  I think the cost has more to do with the liability 
>associated with medical use than it does with the relative purity of the 
>product.  Anybody here have any definitive knowledge here?  You're just 
>paying the guy for sticking his neck out and certifying the purity.
>
>rhg

One impurity to be avoided with breathing mixtures is *oil* vapor.
This will give the breather oil pneumonia, which is where the insides
of the lung is coated with a film of oil, which basically suffocates the
individual.

Possibly the extra expense on "medical" grade O2 is compressing and
transporting it so it is still oil-free at the point of use.  Most compressors
add considerable oil vapor to the gas.

Another reason why LOX is good way for hospitals to store oxygen - 
boil-off gas from liquid is guaranteed to be oil-free.  Our clean N2 
supply at the lab is obtained this way.

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From hayesp@delphi.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: To the guy who was looking for special washers...
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 18:55:33 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <5NCPkSN.hayesp@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com

I just received a catalog from a company that makes an
incrediible assortment of washers, to order. Their average
minimum is 100 pcs, but they claim they can sometimes make
adjustments to that their name is:
Bokers Inc., 3104 Snelling Ave., Minneapolis MN 55406
Tel 9612-729-9365  fax (612) 729-8910
 
They list a great variety of materials, and as an example, over
150 kinds of .500 od washers to choose from!
Hope you find this!
Paul


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:09 EDT 1996
Article: 29783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Movie Viewer Help (was How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder?)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 07:06:17 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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References: <31B76560.4537@pop.erols.com> <Dsu5xo.1Ez@cf.ac.uk> <31BD9FAD.F31@ix.netcom.com> <4poflk$il5@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <31C0509D.5DB6@ix.netcom.com> <DszH7s.FHy@cf.ac.uk>
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To: Michael Jones <jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk>

Michael Jones wrote:
> 
> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
> snip...
> >
> >John::  Mike: Someone:
> >
> >What viewer should I get to view the videos on this...
> >Netscape does not work without a plug-in.  But what plugh-in?
> >
> >Paul in AJ AZ
> 
> Actually, this is a question I'd like to know the answer to. The
> university here provides us with only the the barest minimum of network
> tools, including Netscape.  But their movie viewer doesn't work on my
> university provided Pentium, so I download movie files and view them on
> my Mac. With my Mac I use either Sparkle or view them with Movie Player.
> 
> I'd love to see the all the metal working videos at the MIT site, but
> some are too big to fit on a 1.4Mb floppy...sigh.
> 
> Mike

Frustrating isn't it???

Paul in AJ AZ


From xlch58@netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: TOOL GRINDER
Message-ID: <xlch58Dt1oLz.B6E@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960614094647.142895A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> <31C17330.2139@ix.netcom.com> <1996Jun14.232606.22703@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 14:08:23 GMT
Lines: 16
Sender: xlch58@netcom17.netcom.com

Russ Kepler (russ@bbxrbk.basis.com) wrote:
: In article <31C17330.2139@ix.netcom.com>,
: PPIERCE  <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
: >Orders seem to be shipped just as fast.  Their top management
: >apparently has a mission, instead of just a position.
: >You may need a coaster wagon to haul that catalog around!

: The only complaint I've ever had of MSC is that the catalog is really
: too unweildy to take into the porcelain throne room for browsing...

: -- 
: Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

:                       Please don't feed the Engineers

I built a stand for it at an appropriate height 


From johnd@islandnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: How do you use a centerfinder/ edge finder.
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 14:46:59 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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Message-ID: <4pui5e$qtl@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
References: <31B76560.4537@pop.erols.com> <Dsu5xo.1Ez@cf.ac.uk> <31BD9FAD.F31@ix.netcom.com> <4poflk$il5@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <31C0509D.5DB6@ix.netcom.com>
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PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>What viewer should I get to view the videos on this...
>Netscape does not work without a plug-in.  But what plugh-in?

>Paul in AJ AZ

Depends on the computer and OS you are using.
If a MAC - who know???

If a PC running WINDOWS 3.11 or Windows 95 VMPEGWIN.EXE works nicely.

If you are using WIN-NT 3.51 then there is the likelyhood of a General
Protection Fault. Why? Well the program is doing something that it's
not supposed to and WIN-NT is the only OS that catches it.  This is
why WIN3.1 needs to be periodically rebooted - software like this
makes it unstable.

I don't recall where I found it but a search of the web using Yahoo
should turn it up.
John.

PS. So I still use NT for everything except mpg videos and then I just
run them on my kids Packard Bell running WIN-95.  With all the various
games they run their machine is rebooted daily anyway. My NT systems
goes for months without being turned off or rebooted.



From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:10 EDT 1996
Article: 29786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: One of those days (long)
Date: 15 Jun 1996 08:05:04 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	OK, here's the problem: I've been using a stepper motor to drive 
the X-axis leadscrew on my Bridgeport, but it finally up and died. It 
looks like one of the reasons might have been a creeping misalignment 
which, transmitted through a funky U-joint coupling, caused an 
intermittent side load that nuked the motor. The solution: replace funky 
coupling with something nice like a helical coupling.
	 OK, I go to the bin and find one, but it's got a bore that's 
undersized by .062in. So-- how to hold it to drill it out accurately? 
It's kinda floppy, so it can't be just chucked in the lathe and turned. 
	I decided to slip it in to a closely-bored piece of pipe, hold it 
in place with setscrews and put the pipe in the lathe chuck (jaws only 
stick out about 3/4in.; the pipe sticks out 4in. to hold all of coupling) 
and then bore. Well, the pipe is under-sized by about .010in. and I 
realized that Idon't have a boring bar holder that will fit the Omni-Post 
on my Myford, so first I had to make a boring bar holder. 
	I grab the barstock to make the holder, turn on the saw and realize 
that it's been so long since I cleaned it that the filter is plugged and the 
pump hose is cracked with age. It was Sunday so I had to wait a day to get a 
$.50 piece of hose. Cleaning the saw and getting it working right took 
a day, doing it in 2-minute increments (the part-changing rate of a CNC 
job I was running at the time...). 
	Got the part cut, layed out and started whittling. One feature of 
the holder is a big hole in the back, where it mounts on the Omni-post. 
It took 4 hours of rummaging to find the boring head (in 2-minute 
increments).
	Got the part bored, drilled and tapped the clamping bolt hole, 
then sawed the split and got all clamped onto the lathe, where I intended 
to mount a center-drill in the chuck, then creep up on it with the 
toolholder mounted on the compound, in order to spot the center of the 
hole to be made for the boring bar. I flip the drum switch and smoke 
comes out: it's dead. $77.- for a new switch that had 3 poles to a side: 
the only one available in town, that the guy at the counter said would 
work fine; sorry no refunds (the old one had 4 poles to a side). 
	Couldn't figure out how to wire the thing up, so took motor off 
of lathe and down to electrician with new switch, to get all wired up 
correctly: the electrician had left for the day, since there wasn't 
enough work. Next day, after dropping another $81.- for the wiring, I took 
all back to the shop, but getting the motor bolted to the swinging mounting 
plate as a 4-handed job. Waited to sweetie got back from the market and 
had her pry up with a 4-ft. long 1x2 wedged underneath the motor while I 
tightened the bolts. Got all aligned and back together in only 2 days.   
	Spotted the hole and got the boring bar hole bored just right. 
Put all together and mounted the pipe, ready for boring last night.
	The moral of the story: routine maintenance is a good thing and 
knowing where everything is helps a bit, too: I'm setting up a table in 
Word that has the name of all of my tooling and their *exact* location 
indicated. Hope I remember to update the data... *Maybe* I'll get that 
$158.50 hole drilled tonight... Still, I wish I'd bought the correct 
coupling to begin with...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	When fortune proves elusive, 	
	COMING SOON		:	Concentrate on fame...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: 15 Jun 1996 15:05:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4pujgm$459@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 15 10:05:58 AM CDT 1996

In <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net> felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein) writes: 
>
>The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
>mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are
happy
>with theirs. Also, if I do get one, is the 5400 model with the extra y
axis
>travel worth the extra $125? Call me paranoid, but I just don't trust
>the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
>negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill
>for about $500 in the Willamette valley of Oregon, I would probably
want that 
>instead.
>Thanks

It all depends on what you plan on machining. If your work will entail
small parts with a need for high precision, the SHERLINE mill will suit
you just fine. If, however, you plan on taking a slab of stainless and
hoggin our some pockets and Islands, I think you will be very
disappointed. When used for the work it was designed for, the SHERLINE
is an outstanding piece of equipment. I ahve been using them in my shop
for some time now, and I liked them so much that I became a dealer.

I think that if you ask anyone who owns one how they like it they will
answer in the affirmative. Well made, good price. It is NOT a Mill
Drill by any means and to compare the two is pointless.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/



From tartis@world.std.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tartis@world.std.com (Tad B Artis)
Subject: Stepper for Personal CNC Sherline
Message-ID: <Dt1rFE.A1u@world.std.com>
Keywords: Sherline Stepper Personal
Organization: The World, Public Access Internet, Brookline, MA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:09:14 GMT
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I am looking for a replacement stepping motor for a "Personal CNC" 
conversion of a Sherline.  Personal CNC is no longer in business so...

Who did the electronics for Personal CNC or

Who is the actual manufacturer of the motor that has the reseller's
name Mycom model PS466-01B?


From PDJJ22C@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:11 EDT 1996
Article: 29789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PDJJ22C@prodigy.com (David Mathews)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: White Metal Casting (lead,  pewter)
Date: 14 Jun 1996 07:29:42 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Help! I would like to speak with someone who has done (or does) white 
metal casting with spincasting equipment using round molds. I have some 
questions I would like to ask.
Thanks
"Bo"




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: glazing over sandblasted surface?
Date: 15 Jun 1996 18:25:28 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Find youself a guy who blasts car bodies using plastic
or chemical media.  He can control the blast to take
off the top coat and leave the primer.  Frequently
this is used on plastic-bodied cars so it does work.

You should probably not attempt to take everything down
to bare metal unless there is a lot of rust involved.
If so, consider glass beads or walnut shells.

If you do a lot of this, you might want to get into the
blasting businss yourself.  At least you can then pick
the media, pressure and angle at which the abrasive
stream hits the work.

I've sandblasted several autombiles in my driveway with
good success.  I use low pressure, #30 sand, and shallow
angles.  Of course portions of my driveway border look
very much like the Sahara!

Have you considered one of the spot blasters that are used
for automotive work?  They don't leave much mess and are
very controllable.

If you do blast, make certain you observe the safety and
health precautions.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:24:26 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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Message-ID: <ginger.483.0012BB51@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <4pcgu8$sli@cletus.bright.net> <31BDB3F2.175B@gaas.enet.dec.com> <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <1996Jun12.211420.14507@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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In article <1996Jun12.211420.14507@bbxrbk.basis.com> russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) writes:
>From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
>Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
>Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:14:20 GMT


>In general, though, the precision for that would be less than that
>available from a 40 turn dividing head (comparing dividing heads with
>rotary tables not using index plates).  The difference might not
>matter for bolt hole patters or low speed gears, but above that I
>believe that it might well matter.

But, rotary tables also have 40:1 ratio drives, and mine has a dial calibrated 
with min and sec, so all I have to do is stop the crank at positions 
equivalent to the hole pattern of a division plate. tedious but hardly 
impossible.

and surely as accurate as a dividing head.

Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:12 EDT 1996
Article: 29792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu (COUGER GORDON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How dey do dat?  (Straighten gun barrels)
Date: 14 Jun 1996 14:27:56 GMT
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4prstc$c4t@news.cis.okstate.edu>
References: <bconner-0306961726570001@dial2-1.cybercom.net> <4p0vfa$k88@news2.delphi.com> <4pnjsiINN54l@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <4prran$flj@nyx.cs.du.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu

In article <4prran$flj@nyx.cs.du.edu>,
Robert Galloway <rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu> wrote:
>>good-as-new straightness.  The expert straightener just uses
>>his eyeball and looks through the barrel and does it on an
>>intuitive basis (maybe using a press again).
>>
>
>Back in the early days of "Guns and Ammo" magazine they had a regular 
>column by a gunsmith located out in Utah.  He seemed to know what he was 
>talking about on every topic I did know something about so I trust him on 
>this.  He said he straightened (I believe he said all) match rifle 
>barrels after machining.  There were pictures of him sighting down the 
>bore and then placing the barrel in a big manual screw type press and 
>tweeking it a bit.  Anybody remember the guys name?
>
I beleive you are talking about Parker Ackley.

As I recall production shops had a screw press at eye level. You put the barrel
in the press and looked through it at a line a good distance away. Once you 
found the bend and got it aligned in the press you bent it a little more than
the bend to allow for spring back.

I have not done gun barrels but I have straightened about every thing else. It 
is not as difficlult as it sounds unless it has a kink in it. You pick up the
eye pretty quickly. 

If you try straighting stuff in a hydrolic press make sure it is securly in the
press. Until  you have had a curved 1X2 peice of tempered steel come flying out
of a 50 ton press you don't understand the danger of a press.

Good luck
gordon


Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu


From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:15:42 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4psvbe$69a@crl4.crl.com>
References: <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4ps4p7$gas@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com> <4psahr$qpc@fcnews.fc.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl4.crl.com

In article <4psahr$qpc@fcnews.fc.hp.com>,
Roger Mitchell <rogerm@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>Nitric Acid will disolve the tap without doing in the aluminum. It would
>take about a day to do it however. You might also be able to drill it using
>a solid tungsten carbide drill bit and take out the pieces.
>
>			Roger Mitchell
>			Vice President and Master Mechanic
>			Fort Collins Municipal Railway 
>			http://www.fortnet.org/CITY/Trolley/
>


Cole's catalogue has said for years and years and years that the way to 
get taps out of aluminum is to soak the part in a concentrated solution 
of aluminum sulfate.  Isn't this in the FAQ Jim?  This works for all 
non-ferrous metals.  Just place in a plastic or glass pan and pour in the 
solution.  If you can't keep it at 120 deg F, just let it sit there for a 
week or so and the tap will be gone.

If I wanted to admit to being a Klutz, I'd tell you how many times I've 
done this successfully.

JerryK


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bridgeport Spindle
Date: 15 Jun 1996 19:38:58 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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>I've decided to wait on any more tinkering with the spindle taper runout
>until I can figure out whether the bearings are going to blow up or not.

They would have been gone by now it they were going to go.

>They still feel silky smooth, but I was doing some milling and drilling
>at 1750 RPM, and after a half hour, the quill got so hot it was starting
>to bind in the housing (it is extremely tight anyway).  The 'nose piece'
>which clamps the lower bearing was running about 110 F.  That seems really
>hot, but if these are new bearings, do they need to be run-in first?

No, they don't need to be run in.  Do they have lube?  On my 2J head, 
there is an oil cup on the right side of the cast iron portion of the
head.  I don't recall where it is on a J HEAD. The cup feeds into a 
felt filter that then allows the oil to drip down into the lower bearings.

110 F. does not seem too hot after that period of running.  But I am not
an expert on Bridgeport bearing temperatures.

Tight quill.  There should be only about 0.0005" clearance for the
quill in the head, otherwise you get very interesting surface finishes 
and you can see the oil squeeze out as the quill moves in the head.

The four bolts that hold the head to the ram need to be torqued evenly
to 50 ft. lbs.  Stage each to 25 ft. lbs. first and then move up to
50 ft. lbs.  Bridgeport claims that quill movement can be affected by
this if it is too tight or too uneven.  I ignored this at first and
experienced several problems.  One of which was the head would untram 
itself at every opportunity.

Is the quill clamp loose and not falling tight.  A common problem with
Bridgeports and one easily taken care of with a few rubber bands or
the little $7.00 goodie sold to hold the dumb design in the loose position.

>
>On the other hand, there was a really different 'feel' with this head as
>compared to my old M head.  The M head has a badly worn spline, and tends
>to chatter, but the difference seemed to be more than that - a lot more.
>I was taking .050" deep cuts with a 1/2" end mill in Aluminum.  This was
>about the limit of my M head, before it started vibrating and showing
>surface roughness.  The J head took it like it was cutting wax.  I
>definitely LIKE it!
>
>Does anyone know if the quill is considered interchangable, or if the
>quill is finished to be a matched part to the entire housing?  Why I'm
>wondering is that the quill is the most badly butchered part in this
>head.  Maybe I should just get a new quill, install my bearings and
>spindle in it, and put it into the housing.

They are sort of matched at least to the extent that when a friend of
mine had his spindle rechromed, he had the spindle ground and the head
honed.  Course this is a guy that has a brilliant metalic gray finish
on his mill and just had all of the rotating parts and the motor in
his lathe dynamically balanced.  Still, they have to fit rather well.
>

>What is this thing called?  Is a 1 Hp J head called a 1-J?  Is the 2-J
>called that because it has a 2 Hp motor, or are there other differences?

According to my April 1981 Bridgeport manual, there are at least 
5 HEADS for Bridgeports if we ignore the Model II's and others:

M HEAD                     0.5 hp.       275 - 4550 rpm in six steps
J HEAD                     1.0 hp.        80 - 2720 rpm in eight steps
J HEAD Hi Speed            1.5 hp.       160 - 5440 rpm in eight steps
2J HEAD (before 1977)      1.0 hp.        60 - 4200 rpm variable
2J HEAD (after 1977        2.0 hp.        60 - 4200 rpm variable

Obviously there is a 3hp. 2J head as well.

Best regards,
Mike Rehmus
Mike Rehmus




From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:13 EDT 1996
Article: 29795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:07:16 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4psurk$660@crl4.crl.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl4.crl.com

In article <jnaylor-1306960030040001@192.0.2.1>,
Jim Naylor <jnaylor@southwind.net> wrote:
>In article <4pn4jc$l30@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, clhuprich@aol.com
>(Clhuprich) wrote:
>
>>    In general these tanks have a coating on the inside to resist rust --
>> you
>> may wish to inspect the inside of yours.
>> 
>> Cliff Huprich
>
>Umm, Cliff--I'm having a little trouble getting the light down inside
>there. Got any hints please?
>
>-- 
>Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
>Wichita KS

If you are really serious about inspecting the inside of your tank, pull 
out the water drain cock and use a bore-scope to look around in there.

JerryK


From davidsmith1@delphi.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Smith <davidsmith1@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 21:15:56 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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X-To: Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net>

A good accountant is a start.  Compairing his priceing to other shops is
another step, but I would tend to fall back to the oldest improvement of all -
Raise prices


From demirj@husc.harvard.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:14 EDT 1996
Article: 29797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demirj <demirj@husc.harvard.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS.Comparator
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 21:39:52 -0400
Organization: Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lines: 14
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Subject: FS.Wilder Comparator.
 12"Wilder comparator with surface illuminator (1942 Mil. spec)$750.

 Christen  05-10 drill grinding machine capacity 
 .016 to .375 Swiss made $600.

 Bench model 2 ton power press in excellent condition,
rebuilt recently $130.








From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 11:50:09 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
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RE: the "oddball" threads and having to keep the half-nuts
locked.... I'm pretty sure you only have to do that with
metric threads and an inch leadscrew. With any "threads
per inch" and an inch leadscrew, the thread will repeat
for all threads if you use the same point on the indicator.
So for any thread if you always pickup on say "2", you'll
be fine. (Obviously you wouldn't want to do this unless it
was necessary!)

This information came with the User Guide for my Logan 920
lathe (right Scott? :-)...  which I got from Logan.

/Charlie



From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Decorative Turning Lathe for sale - Oxford
Date: 14 Jun 1996 20:58:36 GMT
Organization: Tattoo Club of Great Britain
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I have a small decorative turning lathe for sale, weighs about 60 kilo.

This was made to decorate small buttons. I bought it off watchmaker who 
used it to decorate watch cases.  Never had the time to experiment with 
it, must go as space needed, bought more machinery and moved this out of 
the workshoop to make more space.

Must go as everyone trips over it coming in the back door! asking £500.

Can be reached on Oxford 01865 716877 or fax 775610

Thanks, Lionel



From jmcmun@digital-cafe.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole size for metric taps
Date: 14 Jun 1996 04:57:07 GMT
Organization: Jamun Industries
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the tap drill rule: o.d. minus the pitch = tap drill size.

example:M6 x 1, 5mm tap drill.


From craigtc@communique.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:15 EDT 1996
Article: 29801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: craigtc@communique.net (Craig C.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 22:32:16 GMT
Organization: Communique Inc., New Orleans
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steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:

>Clay Timmons (ctimmons@asic.sc.ti.com) wrote:
>: little oops.  I was tapping a 8-32 hole in some
>: aluminum and I broke the tap off.  It broke off

We used to have this problem fairly often in the instrument shop that
I used to work in. We averaged about 4 times a month having to remove
a broken tap from a work piece. For taps smaller than 10-32, we just
tossed the part in our home-made EDM machine and burned them out. For
the larger taps, one of the guys could usually find a way to remove
it. 

If the part is not too far along to scrap, then that is probably the
easiest thing to do. If it was nearly finished, then look up a local
machine shop and see if they have EDM and will take on burning the tap
out, or you might be able to work the tap out using some very small
picks and  scribes. If you can get it to move a little, take the part
and heat it in the oven for a half hour or so and try to back the tap
out while the part is hot. Last option is to get copies of Home Shop
Machinist and build the neat little EDM machine that was the subject
of a series of construction articles. I think Popular Mechanics has
done one also sometime back...

Frustrating isn't it? Best of luck whatever route you take...


Craig



From skeeve@henge.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: skeeve@henge.com (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSS grades of toolbits, lathe
Date: 15 Jun 1996 19:52:44 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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In article <4pp06v$jj7@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>, congreve@ix.netcom.co 
says...
>
>(Again, posting for John Haddy, who is receiving this newsgroup but is
>temporarily unable to post to it):
>
>I would like to solicit opinions on the best composition of lathe tool
>bits for general home use.  Given a random mixture of mild steel,
>silver steel, brass and aluminium as run-of-the-mill stock, I'd like to
>settle on one composition of toolbit, so all I''ll have to do is grind
>correct reliefs for the mateial at hand.
>
>I have the following tool bit options readily available from local
>stockists:
>
>M2 Tungsten-Molybdenum HSS
>M42 Tungsten-Molybdenum-Cobalt HSS
>M100A Molybdenum-Cobalt-Vanadium HSS
>
>         Thanks


For general home shop use, M2 tool steel tools would be the best way to 
go, imho. The cobalt tool steels are better for high heat operation, such 
as with a higher horsepower lathes and mills, turning high rpms, in a 
production set up. 

M2 tool steel bits will cost far less money, and do a very nice job for 
you, I suspect. For general turning of mild steel and such, I find that M2 
is hard to beat. The only other suggestion that I have, is to make sure to 
quench the tool in water often, while you are grinding it, as it is easy 
to "burn" the cutting edge. 

Best wishes!



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bridgeport Spindle
Date: 14 Jun 1996 05:42:44 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:

: Well, I've gotten that bridgeport J head mounted on my old round-ram
: turret mill base.  Still a few problems.

: I've decided to wait on any more tinkering with the spindle taper runout
: until I can figure out whether the bearings are going to blow up or not.
: They still feel silky smooth, but I was doing some milling and drilling
: at 1750 RPM, and after a half hour, the quill got so hot it was starting
: to bind in the housing (it is extremely tight anyway).  The 'nose piece'
: which clamps the lower bearing was running about 110 F.  That seems really
: hot, but if these are new bearings, do they need to be run-in first?

Oh, it just keeps getting more interesting!  I was really worried about
the bearings running hot a few days ago.  Well, I did nothing about it
except worry.  I decided to sharpen a batch of end mills on the mill,
which I have worked out a procedure to do.  I ran the mill continuously
for about 2 hours at 1750 RPM, and only at the very end was the spindle
even warm!  Very strange!  I had been filling the oil drip cup for the
spindle bearings (big oil cup, lower one) every day or two.  Finally some
oil started leaking out around the nose cap, so I know the #10 oil has
made it to the bottom.  I think there was some assembly lube on the
bearings since they were made, and the #10 finally slid down the spindle
and washed that thick assembly lube off the bearings.  Now maybe I'll
tackle the runout, being a little more confident that the bearings will
last.



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:16 EDT 1996
Article: 29804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill Opinions?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 22:58:33 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 47
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References: <felice.92.31BDA6A0@pioneer.net>
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Felice Luftschein (felice@pioneer.net) wrote:
: The money fairy has seen fit to enable the purchase of a sherline
: mill. I need to know if they are rigid, and if people out there are happy

[deleted]
: the endorsements in the sherline catalog. Please I especially want
: negative, critical comments. Finally if anyone has a used mill/drill

I might have to disappoint you, there.  I'm pretty happy with mine, although
it *always& seems you can use a little more space.  (I suppose I could have
one of the factory sized mills and run into the same problem.....)

I got the standard mill, but if I had to do it over again, I would get the
delux mill.  Not only does the extra Y axis travel help, but the resettable
wheels make it a bit easier to handle large/wierd sized traverses.  I've had
a few times where I had to move over 1.0625" and forgot where I started
from.  I finally got to the point of writing it down or keying it into a
calculator...

Ok, you want negatives?  Here are a few:  If you do a lot of X axis 
traversing, the gib plastic will end up wedging it self tight after a while.  
This will make the end of your travel less than fun.  Lube often and check
the gibs.

You will end up spending about as much on accessories as you paid for the
mill.  You will want that rotary table a lot sooner than you think.  (The
table does not come with a resettable wheel, either.  Dunno if it can be
retrofitted.)

"Daylight" is at a premium.  Try to keep your setups low.  It's hard to mount
a center-finding indicator.  I thought about designing one to hold a
DTI horizontally to save space.

I'm not completely thrilled with the Sherline vise.  When I've had to reset
it, it occasionally gets hung up between the detents and the table.  I've
since gone to a 4" toolmaker's vise (about 10 pounds, but works pretty well)
for most work.


See the Morton Machinery web page for ordering information.  They give 20%
off to web-heads, and that's better than Eastern Tool & Supply for the
deluxe mill.  The stuff will be shipped from Sherline's plant in San Marcos, 
CA, for what it's worth.  Good luck at finding used.  They don't seem to
get sold.  :-)

Pete Brooks



From babcock@infi.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stepper for Personal CNC Sherline
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 19:50:38 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 21
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Personal CNC still has a web site at:
http://www.lainet.com/pcmotion/

So it looks like they are in business?

Good luck, Tom

In article <Dt1rFE.A1u@world.std.com> tartis@world.std.com (Tad B Artis) 
writes:>From: tartis@world.std.com (Tad B Artis)
>Subject: Stepper for Personal CNC Sherline
>Keywords: Sherline Stepper Personal
>Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:09:14 GMT

>I am looking for a replacement stepping motor for a "Personal CNC" 
>conversion of a Sherline.  Personal CNC is no longer in business so...

>Who did the electronics for Personal CNC or

>Who is the actual manufacturer of the motor that has the reseller's
>name Mycom model PS466-01B?



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:17 EDT 1996
Article: 29806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:31:09 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 26
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4ps7kt$8bv@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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Our 7475 plotter is semi-retired, and works with the IEEE-488 (HPIB)
interface.  I don't know about any RS-232 version, but here goes:

The dip switch is used to set the HPIB address.  I believe your driver
should tell you, but 5 was common at one time.  The other switches are for
US (A == 8.5 x 11", B == 11 x 17") vs ISO (with a selector for A3 vs A4)
for paper sizes.

If you really have an RS-232 version, I'd put put money on the Dip switch
covering baud rate, and possibly some protocol stuff.  It should be
pretty clearly marked.  (It's possible that the switch is unused, but that's
fairly unlikely.)

The P1 and P2 buttons are used to set the corner limits.

Hit P1, and it will go to what it thinks is P1.  Move the pen with the buttons,
then press 'enter', and some light should blink til you hit P1 again.
Then, you've set P1.  The same thing goes for P2.

You can get error conditions fairly easily, especially if you've not set the
paper quite right.  I think if you get P1 and P2 backwards, it doesn't
know what to do.  However, the defaults (assuming you are on paper) should be
OK.

Pete Brooks



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help needed saving a business
Date: 14 Jun 1996 16:20:29 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4ps3gd$ir3@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Yep.  If he's winning *every* bid he makes, he's bidding too low.

And if he's really that good, people will pay more anyway.




From jworman@206.206.161.10 Tue Jun 18 10:31:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jworman@206.206.161.10
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How dey do dat?  (Straighten gun barrels)
Date: 16 Jun 1996 01:55:08 GMT
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In <4prran$flj@nyx.cs.du.edu>, rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) writes:
>>good-as-new straightness.  The expert straightener just uses
>>his eyeball and looks through the barrel and does it on an
>>intuitive basis (maybe using a press again).
>>
>>Don't ask me if its true.  I know I didn't dream it (or did
>>I?). I heard it somewhere and I dont read any gun magazines
>>so I probably heard it here.  Who told this story?  Are you
>>listening?
>>
>>What this must mean is when you get through pounding and
>>drilling then you got to start looking and bending.  Got
>>to read the rest of the articles and go home before it gets
>>too late.
>
>
>Back in the early days of "Guns and Ammo" magazine they had a regular 
>column by a gunsmith located out in Utah.  He seemed to know what he was 
>talking about on every topic I did know something about so I trust him on 
>this.  He said he straightened (I believe he said all) match rifle 
>barrels after machining.  There were pictures of him sighting down the 
>bore and then placing the barrel in a big manual screw type press and 
>tweeking it a bit.  Anybody remember the guys name?
>
>rhg
I bet it was P. O. Ackley


From mss@teletech.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:18 EDT 1996
Article: 29809 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!iglou!bubba.emanon.com!teletech.com!mss
From: mss@teletech.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing -Reply
Date: 14 Jun 1996 16:20:10 -0400
Organization: emanon.com
Lines: 34
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     I am still learning how to do a little blacksmith jobs, knives, cooking
utensils, and other small pieces.  I hope to someday try to forge a gun
barrel out of flat stock.  Blacksmithing  is and enjoyable job, one that
doesn't get awhole lot of respect because not everyone seen it being
done and never tried it themselves.  I went to Colonial Williamsburg last
year and spent almost a whole day watch the blacksmiths work, and
really enjoyed seeing their tools and finished products.  

                                                           Mike Steele
                                                           "sounds like a blacksmith"


>>> ernielei@aol.com (ErnieLeim) {MHS:ernieleim@aol.com} 06/14/96
12:59am >>>
Looking for other smiths ?

There's always one hiding somewhere in here.


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@




From wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Can quick change gears be adapted to MODEL 200 LOGAN LATHE
Date: 16 Jun 1996 02:46:21 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
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I own a model 200 Logan lathe and I'm wondering if a quick change can be 
adapted to it? If so where could a person find one? 



From kimberln@crl.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: carbon electrodes
Date: 14 Jun 1996 17:34:05 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4pt0dt$6es@crl4.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl4.crl.com

The recent thread on electric arcs and electric arc furnaces got me to 
thinking that I have some carbons in my garage that I would just as soon 
get rid of.  These are #20 cored electrodes by Atlas Electric Divices 
Company, Chicago according to the label.  Also the label says 
Weather-ometer and Fade-ometer.  Are these machines using the electrodes 
for something?

In any case the carbons are 0.510" OD and 12" long with a 1/8" keyway 
about 1 1/2" long in one end.  I've been using these to lay brass and 
other stuff on while silver soldering just to get them up off my brazing 
hearth.  But I'll get rid of the carbon rods if anyone wants them.

I must have close to 80 rods as the box held 100 to start with.  
I'll sell them for FREE if someone pays the freight.  Anyone want to 
support UPS for about 15 lbs (estimate) from Richmond, CA?

JerryK


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:19 EDT 1996
Article: 29812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TOOL GRINDER
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 17:02:34 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <31C1FD9A.55DB@ix.netcom.com>
References: <31C0A6E2.13B@ix.netcom.com> <r.lee-1406961055500001@ppp24.nantucket.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jun 14  7:01:49 PM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Randolph Lee <r.lee@windshadow.com>

Randolph Lee wrote:
> 
> In article <31C0A6E2.13B@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> 
> > YOU HAD PURCHASED A TOOL GRINDER AT THE EASTEC SHOW FROM TRAVERS TOOL.
> > HAVE YOU RECEIVED IT?
> > DOES IT DO WHAT YOU HAD HOPED?
> 
> No need to shout Paul Im' here
> Sorry thats how I learned to type.. G.I. Typewriters didn't have lower case
on them in 1953...  I try-when in a hurry I slip back to the old days...

> Re the catalog... give em a voice call on that to the 800 number...
>

The abstract sheet showed up in todays mail (requested it 5/26/96).
Really a rough drawing (sketch)...
 
> the RomerIII is working well but the documentation is the pits... written
> by the inventor who assumes that every one who buys the unit (which is not
> a grinder itself but rather a micro adjustable jig that works with your
> existing grinder) is a veteran tool maker... I have enough of a background
> in making my own tools to use it but even I had to scratch my head and sit
> through a beer or three to figure out how to cut a concave radius to make
> a rounding over bit...

Gosh - the Dr. turned me into a teetotaler, not beer, along with 
no sugar and lo-fat - UGH!!!

I would assume that a narrow wheel is required for that concave radius
(I'not a tool grinder) in the rounding over bit.

> I was able to convert a trashed 3/4 endmill into a
> ball end mill in less than 10 min though... that use was quite obvious...
> as is using the micro adjust protractor as a replacement for the standard
> on on the carbide grinder for normal brazed carbide or HSS lathe bits ...
> 
> the tool is well made and I think worth the $200 promo price...(you might
> still talk them into the promo price if you took the "I saw it at the show
> and realy liked it" aproach) at $250 I would insist on a good set of
> instructions though... Travers says they are aware of the problem and have
> assigned inhouse people to a rewrite of the manual.

They should also assign someone to handle catalog requests.

> 
> ~R
> Windshadow Engineering

Paul in AJ AZ
\


From gsmith2@fox.nstn.ns.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ott.istar!istar.net!news.nstn.ca!news
From: gsmith2@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Glen Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: #35 sprockets, source
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 06:28:35 GMT
Organization: Nova Scotia Technology Network
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4pt80i$8rq@news.nstn.ca>
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bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey) wrote:

>I am looking for a source of #35 chain sprockets in sizes from 35-62
>teeth ( yes for karts). Most catalogs list these sizes to special
>order but I bet somewhere in North America these sizes are sitting on
>a shelf gathering dust. But where.
>Thanx.
>Brian.
>bfairey@hookup.net

Check your yellow pages for industrial distributors or power
transmission houses. #35, although not as common as #40, 60 or 80, is
usually stocked.

Glen Smith
Port Morien, NS
Canada



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: tool grinder
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 17:29:48 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: R.LEE@WINDSHADOW.COM

Mr. Lee:

Guess I didn't have the good sense to thank you for all
of your input, efforts, etc.

I should offer a pizza and a beer (Diet Pepsi (UGH) for me).

I hope to get to a community college and possibly learn 
something about grinding tool, etc.  I took two semesters
of shop practice-really enjoyed it.

Paul in AJ AZ


From kbrown@aquadyne.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!taurus!news
From: Ken Brown <kbrown@aquadyne.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where does one find info on plastics?
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 17:42:06 -0700
Organization: Aquadyne Computer Corp.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <31C206DE.1C15@aquadyne.com>
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John Hunt wrote:
>
> My girlfriend is taking up sewing and they have these cutters which are
> like wickedly sharp pizza cutters.  [Yes, I can personally attest to the
> sharpness! :(  ]  Anyway, they need to be used on a soft plastic surface,
> and the little pads they sell in the yardage store seem rediculously high
> priced.  $45 for 25"x35"!
>
> So, I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find info on a type of
> plastic I can use to replace this.  I want to build my girlfirend a
> cutting table measuring 4'x6' so the cost of this plastic surface has
> become a major issue.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> -John-

My wife also uses this pizza cutter type cutter for her quilt making.  It is
my understanding that the cutting mat is 'self healing' meaning it doesn't
show all of the cuts that she has made in the two years she has used it.

Still looks brand new.  I have no idea what it is made of, but can be purchased
at various fabric stores.  That is probably why it costs so much.


Ken

kbrown@aquadyne.com


From tabco@alpha.pulsar.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tabco@alpha.pulsar.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Teflon Machining with razor-blades
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 22:25:45 PDT
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Well, we make teflon washers for needle valve packing nuts.  They vary in 
sizes (1/4 to over 1")  and wall thinkness (up to 1/4") and we drill the rod, 
and part them with razor blades.   Cuts clean and pretty much burr free.  Best 
advice is to hone your turning tools to a super keen edge, to avoid pushing a 
burr.  Drills rarely have a problem if properly sharpened.   Turning speeds 
and feeds can be very high, as this stuff will not generate too much heat.  
Cut everything dry.

Thomas




From lughaid@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lughaid@aol.com (Lughaid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Diamond" toolholder?
Date: 16 Jun 1996 22:37:52 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4pp019$ocr@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>, congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm.
Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:

>(Posting for John Haddy, who seems to be receiving this newsgroup but
>is temporarily unable to post to it): Any opinions and comments on the
>Diamond Toolholder, a tangential tool bit holder for lathes? I gather
>from the ad that only a single face needs to be ground on the bit, with
>the toolholder itself holding the bit so that all reliefs are ok.  Am I
>correct in assuming that the support of the bit assures that there is
>more mechanical strength and less chatter?  (I would be using it on a
>Myford 7).
>
>
>

That seems to be correct, according to articles in the May/June 1996 Home
Shop Machinist.  According to the tool's designer, however, the holder
_is_ designed to slip the bit in case of a catch, rather than hogging in.


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: coloring pewter
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 03:40:10 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <31c36a4e.2992847@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <01bb5a0e.00f4b620$0c61fbce@lludwick.gte.net> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960614141849.11801v-100000@reliant> <01bb5ac6.47c5f240$1f61fbce@lludwick.gte.net>
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>Well, like I said, I am a complete novice.  

I'm no better, but how about finishing one set as polished and one set
as bead-blasted matt ?  It should be easy enough to do.


PS - How _do_ you bead blast pewter ?  The same glass beads as for
aluminium, or should you move down a grade to walnut/almond shells or
plastic beads ?




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!netserv.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: WTB - Lathe and Milling Machine - Texas
Message-ID: <1996Jun16.032303.11919@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <4ps7po$3m9@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 03:23:03 GMT
Lines: 20

In article <4ps7po$3m9@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>,
Marty Jones <mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com> wrote:
> Alternatively, what do you think of the "universal Taiwanese tools"
> that seem to be sold under several labels such as Jet, Enco, Central
> Machinery, etc?  The prices seem pretty fair for new equipment, but do
> real machinists consider them to be junk?

I'd say that the quality of the Jet equipment is well above that of
the Enco or Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) lines.  In fact, I did
buy one of the Harbor Freight horizontal bandsaws at $200 including
shipping, and after comparing it with a local $280 Jet in the same
size I'd buy the Jet.

A friend has a Jet lathe and it's pretty nice, well above the Encos
I've seen, about the same quality as the MSC import lathes.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!netserv.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: How dey do dat?  (Straighten gun barrels)
Message-ID: <1996Jun16.033213.12032@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <bconner-0306961726570001@dial2-1.cybercom.net> <4pnjsiINN54l@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <4prran$flj@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4pvphs$1kg@hume.nmia.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 03:32:13 GMT
Lines: 10

In article <4pvphs$1kg@hume.nmia.com>,  <jworman@206.206.161.10> wrote:
>I bet it was P. O. Ackley

Ackley lived in Cimmaron New Mexico and later Trinidad Colorado.  He
left behind a very good gunsmithing school in Trinidad.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!mr.net!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!nntp.portal.ca!news.bc.net!unixg.ubc.ca!alph02.triumf.ca!shoppa
From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 17 Jun 1996 03:32:59 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4q2jlb$o6c@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
References: <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca> <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <4q2fpm$b33@news.istar.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <4q2fpm$b33@news.istar.ca>, Dean Denter <ddenter@magi.com> wrote:
>
>There are several studies that say that aluminum is bad for you,

There was one study which linked aluminum with Alzheimer's disease,
which was then withdrawn by the authors because the study was faulty.
Other studies have found no health risks with the use of aluminum cookware,
the use of deoderants containing aluminum, or exposure to aluminum
in the workplace (to get back to the topic of rec.crafts.metalworking
here).  I have a list of references on the topic that I'll be happy
to e-mail to anyone who requests them.

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From alpha10@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Peter Trapp <alpha10@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10mm x 26 tap and die source?
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 22:52:16 -0700
Organization: Disorganized
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <31C4F290.1F9@worldnet.att.net>
References: <pevans.282.31C4BA7D@mindlink.bc.ca>
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To: philip evans <pevans@mindlink.bc.ca>

philip evans wrote:
> 
> Bicycle tool catalogue quotes $68 tot for the pair, this hurts as I also want
> 9mm x 26.

Normal metric thread description is dia X thread pitch. ie 10mm x 1.00
= 10mm basic diameter with 1 thread each mm 

Are you saying you need a 10mm tap and die with a 26mm pitch?
I don't think so, nor am I aware of any metric english/combo threads ie 
10mm 26tpi.

But if you measured 25.4 tpi you would have a 10mm x 1.00 thread.
Taps usually avaliable in auto parts stores, dies not as common.
best bet mail order from tool supply should be a lot less than $68. 

regards
--
Peter


From jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ix.net!usenet
From: jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net (Mike Fallopian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blue Ridge number needed
Date: 15 Jun 1996 03:22:19 GMT
Organization: Yoyodyne
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4pta9b$rpu@news.ix.net>
References: <4po29i$qmi@brokaw.comm.mot.com>
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In article <4po29i$qmi@brokaw.comm.mot.com>, ecad81@email.mot.com says...
>
>I was wondering if anyone out there knows the phone #/address of 
>Blue Ridge. They sell lots of tools, including lathe tools. That's all I 
>know about them. 
>
>Doug
>
>

>From  the  metalworking FAQ (http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/)

 Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc.
     PO Box 536
     2806 Putnam Avenue
     Hurricane, WV 25516
     800-872-6500, (304) 562-3538 in WV, (304) 562-5311 (fax)
     Credit cards, COD's up to $200
     M,W,F 9-5 EST, Tu,Th 9-9 EST 

     Lathes, milling machines, presses, brakes, from puny to industrial. 
Accessories and parts for popular machines from
     Myford, South Bend, Atlas, Sherline, Emco-Maier, etc. Hand tools and 
books of interest to hobbyists and
     professionals. Woodworking power tools Steel, brass, aluminum, tool steel 
in small quantities. 




From jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:20 EDT 1996
Article: 29824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ix.net!usenet
From: jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net (Mike Fallopian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTD: Anodizing Dyes
Date: 15 Jun 1996 03:31:12 GMT
Organization: Yoyodyne
Lines: 39
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4ptaq0$rpu@news.ix.net>
References: <art-1306961706160001@gb20.me.uvic.ca> <1996Jun14.085243.23677@roper.uwyo.edu>
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In article <1996Jun14.085243.23677@roper.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@uwyo.edu says...
>
>In article <art-1306961706160001@gb20.me.uvic.ca>, art@ME.uvic.ca (AM 3780) 
writes:
>|>I am looking for Black (MLW), or other colors anodizing dyes. Clarion
>|>(Sandoz) sells them only in minimum quantities of 5 kg, while I need less
>|>than a kilo. Would anyone have an idea where I could buy lesser
>
>Just a quick check:  did you check the FAQ? --
>
>      (Steve Rayner reports that telescope builders like a black
>      anodizing dye called Nigrosin Biological Stain, which is water
[snip]
>I've included Caswell and Dalmar on the assumption that an electroplating
>firm might have some anodizing supplies (let me know, if you find out).
>
>Maybe you could get 5kg minimum and split it with others?  :-)
>
>Jim


Small Parts also carries a few type of metal coloring liquids (by Birchwood 
Casey) as of the fall '93 catalog: blue/black ferrous metals, black for Al & 
brass, plum brown for iron & steel.  3 fl oz for under $10.00 ea (1993).

>From  the FAQ:

 Small Parts, Inc.
     13980 N.W. 58th Court
     P.O. Box 4650
     Miami Lakes, FL. 33014
     (800) 220-4242, (305) 557-8222; (800) 423-9009 (FAX), (305) 558-0509 
(international FAX) 

     Nicest line of supplies and hardware for prototype builders. Specifically 
targeted for small quantities. Catalog includes
     prices. More fun than the Sears catalog used to be. 




From acarmich@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:21 EDT 1996
Article: 29825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim & Tina Carmichael <acarmich@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 22:45:34 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
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To: david allen <allend@pt.cyanamic.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.rec.camping:4027 misc.forsale.non-computer:37149 rec.crafts.metalworking:29825 rec.outdoors.rv-travel:12278 sci.energy:51227

david allen wrote:
> 
> does anyone know of a source for a small diesel engine (1 to 3 hp)?  I want to
> put it on a small generator to provide a continuous, constant power source
> (1000 watts max).
> 
> thanks
> 
> da


China Diesel Imports (CDI) of Jamul, CA (near San Diego).  They 
advertise in Mother Earth News, and sell small diesel motor and 
generator combinations.


From sherrick@slonet.org Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.callamer.com!spork.callamer.com!sherrick
From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 20:21:05 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.93.960614201815.13328A-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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To: ErnieLeim <ernieleim@aol.com>
In-Reply-To: <4pqrkd$5qi@newsbf02.news.aol.com>

I'm a modern smith ie welder during the week, but I preserve history and
pound iron on the ocational weekend for California renaissance fairs,
civil war reenactments, native american powwows, mountain man camps etc.
Let me know if you know of any places that are willing to pay expensese,
and I'm will to stand in the hot sun and forge :-)

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On 14 Jun 1996, ErnieLeim wrote:

> Looking for other smiths ?
> 
> There's always one hiding somewhere in here.
> 
> 
> @}---------------------------------------------------{@
>                     Ernie Leimkuhler                                      
> 
>                   Stagesmith Productions                                  
>                                           
>                  Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
>                
> *    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
>                         Renton, WA                                        
>    
> *    "Death is like being on holiday with
>           a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
> @}------------------------------------------------------{@
> 
> 
> 



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bridgeport Spindle
Date: 17 Jun 1996 06:15:35 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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alan anganes (al@chelmsford.com) wrote:
: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
: >  I decided to sharpen a batch of end mills on the mill,
: >which I have worked out a procedure to do.  

:  I know that this has nothing to do with what you where discussing, but 
: please elaborate on the above mentioned procedure you have worked out to 
: sharpen end mills on the mill. 

:  I would love to hear what you have come up with. I'm sure others here 
: would as well. Thanks, 

I really ought to do an article or two for home shop machinist.  I'll
give some rough description, but I don't think I can really describe it
so that you could do it without pictures.  In fact, the setup is tricky
enough that I have to look at my own pictures to set it up right.
The tool is held in a 5C collet in a fixture I got from ENCO for #38.99.
(Perhaps I got it for a little less on sale.)  This is on P 151 of the
95/96 full-line catalog, as #287-6840 'End Mill Grinding Fixture'.
The little picture in the 2 x 3 box on this tool is all the help you'll
get from Enco in using this - there was no paper at all in the box.
They show it on a standard surface grinder, I think.  The grinder shaft
is horizontal, but as long as the grinding is really done by horizontal
traverse of the table, all surfaces will be flat, and so the plane of
rotation shouldn't matter, I thought.  So, if I put a cup wheel in the
spindle of my mill, i should be able to grind the top of a surface, too.
Of course, it gets a little more complicated when you do serious
sharpening of mills that are badly worn or have a corner chipped off.
then you have to regrind the relief and gashing, too.  if the mill is
just slightly worn, however, just the primary relief can be done, in
under 5 minutes.

Anyway, this fixture holds the cutter in two possible positions.
When set on its flat base, it holds the cutter at about 15 degrees in
one plane, and at about 5 degrees in the other.  this is the position
you use for the primary relief, and it sharpens the cutting edge.
it also applys about 5 degrees tilt, so the point of the cutter is
just a few thousandths farther out than the center.  I never knew end
mills were ground this way - the tilt is apparently much less on a
factory-ground mill - but they work just fine this way.

So, the trick here is to have the fixture mounted on the table with
the 30 degree miter in the base facing the back, the wide part of the
base clamped flat to the table (or in a vise).  The end mill should be
set so that the hub is in a detent, and the cutting facets are lying
parallel to the X axis.  (If a 4 flute mill, then either pair lying
parallel to the X axis.)  Position the table so the rightmost cutting edge
can be fed into the front left quadrant of the wheel.  Try adjusting the
Y position so that when the wheel edge approaches the center of the mill,
it approximates the angle of the gashing that separates the two cutting
edges at the center.  After making a grinding pass, then rotate the hub
180 degrees, and make a pass on this facet to the same point on the
X position.  Examine with jeweler's loupe  (Super 8 mm projection lenses
make FANTASTIC jeweler's loupes - although they won't stay in your eye
socket) to see that the grinding goes all the way to the center.  Advance
the X a little more and check again.  When you've got it, then do all
facets until the cutting edges are all sharp all the way across the edge.

Step 2 is to grind the second relief, if needed.  Now, tip the fixture
onto the 30 degree facet, with the 30 degree facet to the left.  Hold
in a vise or clamp to the table.  To make clamping easier, I cut a flat
in the top of the fixture's bottom plate which is level when the fixture
is on the 30 degree facet.  I can place a clamp on that flat.
Now, with the end mill approaching the same quadrant of the wheel, bring
the tool slowly into the wheel from the front, with the Y feed.  Adjust
X position until the tapered side of the cup wheel clears the cutting
edges while grinding down the secondary reliefs.  This is particularly
tricky on 4-flute mills.  This work is not as critical as the primary
relief, which is actually part of the cutting edge.  The secondary relief
just provides room for chips to escape.

Gashing is used to make the center of a center-cutting end mill somewhat
like the point of a drill bit.
Gashing is necessary for major repair to an end mill, when .050" or so
has to be ground off the length.  This is done with the fixture set up
as for the second relief, but the table is moved so that the end mill
approaches the wheel from the FRONT side.  Turn the hub a few notches
counter-clockwise, one notch less than 90 degrees. (Should be 5 detents.)
This has the 2 cutting edges almost parallel to the X axis, but the left
edge is a little back, the right edge a little toward the front.
Now, pass the mill back and forth with the X axis, while slowly stepping
the table back with the Y axis.  Observe the wheel cutting closer and
closer to the right cutting edge.  Stop before you cut into the right
cutting edge, but get slose enough to eliminate the large flat land at
the center of the mill.  Look at a new 2-flute mill to see what you are
trying to achieve.  What you want is this :

        xxxxxxxxxxxx
        xxxxxxxxxxxxx gash here
        xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
            gash here xxxxxxxxxxxxx
                       xxxxxxxxxxxx

This is the trickiest part by far!  I have made several messes, had to
repeat the first part after bad gashing attempts, etc.  But I also have
made a few end mills look just like they were absolutely new!  I wish
I had video taped those grinding attempts, so that I could see how I
did it!  But, I am getting better, and I can now routinely make end mills
that will plunge properly.

I suggest getting a book on end mill sharpening from a good library if
you can.  I would have never figured all this out without a good
illustrated text.  Try the library of a university with a mechanical
engineering department, a tech school, or high school with a vocational
depertment.  These books will show how to do it with a cutter grinder,
almost always with a cup-type diamond wheel.  I am using a 'flaring
cup' type wheel of alumina (Aluminum Oxide) abrasive.  This is actually
similar to what is frequently used on a cutter grinder, and so makes
translating the pictures on the book a little easier.  The Cup-type
wheel is essential for gashing.  That side relief makes it possible to
get UNDER one cutting edge to gash the other one.  I am using a wheel
similar to Enco's # 391-1153.  These are fine grain, hard abrasive,
which seemed to be the right material.  I take a swipe across the bottom
of the wheel with a diamond dressing point before starting.  Hold the
diamond in a vise, or possibly in the collet of the fixture, and use the
table feed to pass it under the wheel.  Take off just a thousandth or so
each pass, and the diamond will not show any visible wear.

Start with really blitzed end mills, of which we all probably have a few.
Keep the nearly good ones for last, so you can look at them
and follow their contour.

As I say, it would be a lot easier to describe this with pictures!
If you want to try this and need clarification, let me know.

						Jon





From allend@pt.cyanamic.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cyanamid.com!PTR033
From: allend@pt.cyanamic.com (david allen)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 96 15:22:48 GMT
Organization: cyanamid
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.173.54.33
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.rec.camping:4028 misc.forsale.non-computer:37161 rec.crafts.metalworking:29828 rec.outdoors.rv-travel:12279 sci.energy:51240

does anyone know of a source for a small diesel engine (1 to 3 hp)?  I want to 
put it on a small generator to provide a continuous, constant power source 
(1000 watts max).  


thanks

da


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:22 EDT 1996
Article: 29829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Shop Machinist magazine ????
Message-ID: <1996Jun16.231331.23711@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 16 Jun 96 23:13:31 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4q27ds$20eo@useneta1.news.prodigy.com>, PWZT87A@prodigy.com (Joseph Knowlden) writes:
|>Where do I get info on the magazine "Home Shop Machinist".  Looking to 
|>subscribe or a least check it out.


Try the FAQ for this newsgroup.  Anon ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the
metal directory, or http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Also, some of the larger bookstores might carry it (Hastings, B. Dalton),
and a few large libraries might carry it.

>From  the FAQ:

6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?


    - The Home Shop Machinist (HSM), "dedicated to precision metalworking"
      Published 6/year by Village Press (see addresses section), $24.50/year.
      Note that many back issues are not available, though most of the
      projects are available in the "Projects" book series.  Mostly
      techniques, no steam, some gasoline engine projects, many tooling
      projects.  Probably the best of the US magazines.  Some projects
      will span several issues.

    - Projects In Metal (PIM).
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $19.
      Mostly projects, few advertisements.  Each project is complete in one
      issue.  A "weak sister" to HSM, apparently started in part to handle
      overflow projects from HSM.  Earlier back-issues have been combined
      into a new book series called "Metalworking".

   -  Village Press
      P.O. Box 1810
      2779 Aero Park Drive
      Traverse City, MI  49685
      (800) 447-7367, (616) 946-3712, (616) 946-3289 (FAX)
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/steambook/ls.htm
      VPshop@aol.com, Steambook@aol.com

      Publishers of Home Shop Machinist, Projects in Metal, and
      Live Steam.  Some back issues available; older ones are
      available as parts of several book series.  See the individual
      entries in the "magazines" question.  They also publish other
      books such as "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive."


From gdermer@ichips.intel.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hp-cv!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!news.ssd.intel.com!news.jf.intel.com!ichips.intel.com!gdermer
From: gdermer@ichips.intel.com (Greg Dermer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: index or rotary table first
Date: 12 Jun 96 23:31:12 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <gdermer.834622272@ichips.intel.com>
References: <4pcgu8$sli@cletus.bright.net> <31BDB3F2.175B@gaas.enet.dec.com> <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4pna15$sbo@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dtt026.jf.intel.com

congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) writes:

>In <4pmcbb$nch@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome
><wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes: 
>>
>>Since we're computer literate (maybe!), I'd like to point out that
>>it's no big deal to write a program in BASIC to calculate the 
>>degree settings required to get any number of divisions.  Then you
>>don't need index plates for the rotary table.
>>
>I really have to disagree at least from the perspective of a
>clockmaker.  It would be totally impractical to read off degrees
>directly from the rim of a rotary table with sufficient accuracy, and
>certainly impossible to interpolate the arcminutes.  In clockmaking,
>...

>                --Alan Heldman

I think what he meant was to calculate the degree settings of the *worm*
not the rim of the table.  If one could set the worm with an resolution of
2 degrees, and with a 90:1 reduction the resolution at the work would be 
2/90 degree = 1.3 minutes.  One would might have to have a vernier on the
worm to get this close.Frankly, I have enough trouble keeping my act
sufficiently togther to count the holes in my dividing plate 
(even with the sector fingers) so I wouldn't want to try doing without.
But it doesn't seem to be "totally impractical".

Greg
gdermer@ichips.intel.com

Not speaking for Intel.



From dkulha@wco.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dkulha@wco.com (Donald Kulha)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Followup-To: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Date: 16 Jun 1996 17:35:00 GMT
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david allen (allend@pt.cyanamic.com) wrote:
: does anyone know of a source for a small diesel engine (1 to 3 hp)?  I want to 
: put it on a small generator to provide a continuous, constant power source 
: (1000 watts max).  

     A small, smelly, noisy, expensive and obnoxious generator you're
likely to discover friend. You would likely tire of it before long. Better
to run a larger one less time to charge a battery, then use an inverter
(turns low voltage DC power to 117 VAC) to turn it into the flavor of
power you want. I use solar panels to do this and bypass having to live
with the generator (except for rare occasions when a generator is needed
due to lack of sunlight).
     I believe you can find small 5hp diesels for marine power generation
but I'm not sure where (check in rec.boats). Volvo-Penta makes some small
diesel powered generators but they're pretty pricey.

DCK



From tomfool@usa.pipeline.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:23 EDT 1996
Article: 29832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: tomfool@usa.pipeline.com(Christoffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 17 Jun 1996 06:40:08 GMT
Organization: Pipeline
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4q2uk8$ppg@news1.t1.usa.pipeline.com>
References: <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
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X-PipeGCOS: (Christoffer)
X-Newsreader: Pipeline v3.5.0

On Jun 16, 1996 20:52:13 in article <Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question>,
'shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)' wrote: 
 
 
>In article <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>, 
>Shawn T Johnson <tsjohnso@uoguelph.ca> wrote: 
>>I found this "silver" coloured very very lightweight bowl in the dollar  
>>store... bought for a buck beleive it or not :) 
>>It reminds me very much of aluminum foil, but it's thicker.  I can dent  
>>by pressing my finger on it a bit. 
>>My question is, would this be made of aluminum.  And if so, should it  
>>have had an appropriate warning about foodstuffs.  Or was it perhaps  
> 
>What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum 
>bowls? 
> 
>I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't 
>know about some public health law here that bans putting food in 
>aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any 
>event? 
> 
>Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca) 
  
Several years ago I read of a possible relationship between 
aluminum levels and the onset of Alzheimers.  However, I 
don't think any causal relationship has been proven. 
 
Christoffer


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: One of those days (long)
Date: 17 Jun 1996 00:29:21 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <4q1ibq$236@acme.sb.west.net> steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:

<snip>

We have 4 to 5 Mondays per week in our shop too.

Regards,
Dale



From Quahog@netnet.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:24 EDT 1996
Article: 29834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!laslo.netnet.net!news
From: Quahog@netnet.net (D)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 23:13:21 GMT
Organization: Maine State Governtment
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4q222m$463@laslo.netnet.net>
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mouser@zercom.net (Martin-Gilles Lavoie) wrote:

>In article <31bf650c.411113@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, rparker7@ix.netcom.com
>(Roy Parker) wrote:

>> Any blacksmiths following this group?  Been out of touch here for
>> about 6 months, but used to see posts in this area back then.  Not
>> seeing much now.  Is there a special newsgroup I don't know about
>> dedicated to blacksmithing????
>> 
>> 
>> Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
>> Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
>> rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com

>I'm also looking for similar groups.  If you have any list of such groups
>or web sites, I'd appreciate a copy.

>-- 
>Martin-Gilles Lavoie

>[CYRNFR QB ABG ZVK BE BGUREJVFR NYGRE GUR OVGF VA GUVF ZRFFNTR.]

Start browseing the web at:
http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/blacksmithing/ABANA

follow your nose to the Other Fine Places To Visit area, and then let
you fingers do the selecting.  There are a dozen or so sites, and two
mirror groups  theforge (ABANA) and ArtMetal.


D.



From klaas@uniface.nl Tue Jun 18 10:31:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.lighting,sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Carbon-arc questions after experiment
Date: 17 Jun 1996 09:44:07 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4q39d7$icj@news.knoware.nl>
References: <4pgig0$ojg@news.knoware.nl> <4pj34s$ejn@newsreader.wustl.edu> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960611163906.10791A-100000@saul1.u.washington.edu> <4plpo7$g51@news.knoware.nl> <4ppmog$r08@nyx.cs.du.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.lighting:5403 sci.engr.metallurgy:7288 rec.crafts.metalworking:29835

rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway) wrote:
>>I don't know whether a welder provides DC or AC .
>
>They come both ways.  Transformer AC - DC welders are fairly common 
>anymore.  Why didn't you tell us you had access to a welder? 8-)
>
>rhg

I tried my newly bought welder and put it to 50 Amps (max possible 150 A)
and it worked much better.
But keeping the arc sustained is still a problem and putting a rectifier
between
it makes things even worse.
Using a crucible (1 " inner diameter) works too, but heating occurred only 
locally, but, anyway, it melts a few grams of iron in seconds. But it
leaves pits in the crucible wall on the location of the arc.
Using a piece of charcoal with a carbon battery rod heats quicker.

Klaas



From rcook@BIX.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!world1.bawave.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Date: 16 Jun 1996 10:34:49 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4q0o09$d08@news2.delphi.com>
References: <4q074t$ns0@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>
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X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.2

The Rifleman wrote:
>Is there any secret to cutting an even, flat surface in mild steel with
>a file?  (Aside from proceeding slowly and carefully... :-)
>
Practice, practice, practice.
Good stance helps.

This used to be one of the tests of an apprentice. Also, Lindsay has, or
had, a book on hand-filing technique. Not very expensive as I recall and it
might provide some guidance.

However don't expect to get it right the first time. Or  the second.

--RC


From shockey@primenet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:25 EDT 1996
Article: 29837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip185.boi.primenet.com!shockey
From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: One of those days (long)
Date: 17 Jun 1996 07:54:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <shockey.535.007698DD@primenet.com>
References: <4pujf0$u2@acme.sb.west.net> <31C444BE.5C1@ix.netcom.com>
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In article <31C444BE.5C1@ix.netcom.com> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>Edward Haas wrote:
>> 
>>         OK, here's the problem: I've been using a stepper motor to drive
>> the X-axis leadscrew on my Bridgeport, but it finally up and died. It

[delete recounting of typical 35 minute shop maintenance task.)

>> $158.50 hole drilled tonight... Still, I wish I'd bought the correct
>> coupling to begin with...


>We probably all have a day like that occasionally, Ed.
>I'm not laughing...!



Yes, we probably all have a day like that occasionally, Ed 
and Paul. But, I'm laughing...! Sometimes it's the only way 
to keep from crying. (In two-minute increments.)


Take care,


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>

"Knowledge is power."
	-- Francis Bacon

"B-B-B-Bacon is b-b-b-bad for you."
	--Porky Pig


From writt@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how to id a P&W jig borer
Date: 17 Jun 1996 05:45:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4po7u3$8gb@news0-alterdial.uu.net>, sld@nikodyne.com (Steve
Davis) writes:

>i'm interested in an older pratt&whitney jig bore but cannot find
>any markings other than the name.  does anyone know what to look
>for to identify this machine?

I've run many different P&W jig bores. Tell me more about the machine. Is
it an endmeasure machine or does it have graduated dials? What is the
model number? etc.

Bill  Rittner


From dave@avicom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dave@avicom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 14:38:43 GMT
Organization: NETConnect
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Can someone please explain to me the differences in the hardness
ratings of steel.  

The difference between 440 steel and 420 steel and also the Rockwell
scale.

Any help would be appreciated

dave



From writt@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:26 EDT 1996
Article: 29840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mill -- Will it work on small areas of large objects
Date: 17 Jun 1996 06:11:31 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <4poct3$2on@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>, sybok@athena.mit.edu
(The Rifleman) writes:

>Is it possible to work on small areas of larger objects (like
>a shotgun) with the Sherline?  I.e., the travel in each dimension will 
>be small once the work is clamped to the bed, but the work itself is a
>couple feet long.
>
>

I would tend to say yes as long as there is clearance for the long
workpiece. My  only concern would be the weight.

Bill Rittner



From hacker@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:27 EDT 1996
Article: 29841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: hacker@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam engines in NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 10:34:12 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4q3c8v$sas@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 51.middletown-62.va.dial-access.att.net

allend@pt.cyanamic.com (david allen) wrote:

>are there any groups or individuals in the NJ area where I can learn about 
>making steam engines?  


>thanks

>da

David,
  I tried to Email you but it Bounced,  I am a member of the New
Jersey Live Steamers.  I don't have the info infront of me, however if
you send me some email I will get some info together for you

Ron Bach




From rcook@BIX.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:28 EDT 1996
Article: 29842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Date: 17 Jun 1996 10:35:20 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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PAUL wrote:
> 
>Back in the days of antique machinery this was done with 2 semi flat plates
>and
>some Hi-Spot blueing. rub the 2 blued plates together and then file the
>not-blue spots until the plate touches all over.
>
Or use a flat plate as a reference. Hand filing isn't an easy skill to
master, but with practice I think anyone can do quite a good job of it.

--RC



From janders@oro.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: used steel drawer cabinets, blade shear
Date: 17 Jun 1996 02:09:58 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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Thanks for the punch card cabinet idea. That gives me something to ask for.
I've been using a inventory cabinet, about 6" wide and only about 5/8 deep (per drawer).
They work pretty well for small stuff, but I'd like to get everything into one area.

Jon




From PWZT87A@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:29 EDT 1996
Article: 29844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PWZT87A@prodigy.com (Joseph Knowlden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Home Shop Machinist magazine ????
Date: 17 Jun 1996 00:04:12 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 4
Distribution: world
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.168.253.46

Where do I get info on the magazine "Home Shop Machinist".  Looking to 
subscribe or a least check it out.




From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cinncinati-Milacron VMC Problems
Date: 17 Jun 1996 00:25:49 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4q28md$4ur@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4eab7p$8td@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4emn1d$kb6@argentina.it.earthlink.net> <4q1hec$bk@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ren-nv2-12.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 16  7:25:49 PM CDT 1996

For some reason, I am unable to find Mr. Dye's original article via
Netcom (I also checked in sci.engr.manufacturing, as Mr. Dye posts to
that newsgroup as well).  Would someone please re-post the original
article?  We've been considering purchase of a Cinncinati-Milicron VMC
(an Arrow 500) and would be interested in any first-hand information
relative to that machine's performance and/or reliability.  Actually,
it doesn't have to be first-hand information, we'll even listen to
rumors.

Thanks, and regards to all,
Dale



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:31 EDT 1996
Article: 29846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silicon bronze ingot needed in Nova Scotia
Date: 16 Jun 1996 16:21:10 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4q1c9m$qj1@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4pvc8e$2fb@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 16 11:21:10 AM CDT 1996

In <4pvc8e$2fb@freenet-news.carleton.ca> ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA
(John P.Beckley) writes: 
>
>
>Starting small casting operation in Nova Scotia and need foundry
supplies..
>Metal, crucibles, sand etc.......
>
>Who should I turn to.....???????? 
>
>
>Thank you....
>
>    John

Get in touch with Pyramid Products in Niland California. Talk to Merle
( the owner ) and tell him that I sent you, he is a real gentleman and
will be able to help you out. I got my furnace and all foundry supplies
>from  him and he is a real pleasure to deal with.

Their Address is ;
Pyramid Products
85357 American Canal Rd.
Niland, CA 92257
Phone: 1-619-354-4265

I will be writing a review of the equipment in the Near Future that
will be accessable at my web site;
http://hre.com/

I can tell you that I am no metal caster by any stretch of the
imagination, but the Pyramid equipment enables me to produce extremely
good castings and I am thoroughly satisfied with my results.

Good luck

Jim Harvey



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:32 EDT 1996
Article: 29847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com (J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Date: 16 Jun 1996 16:26:48 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4q1ck8$j9r@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4q074t$ns0@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 16 11:26:48 AM CDT 1996

In <4q074t$ns0@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> sybok@athena.mit.edu (The
Rifleman) writes: 
>
>Is there any secret to cutting an even, flat surface in mild steel
with
>a file?  (Aside from proceeding slowly and carefully... :-)
>
>
You might want to use a little Dykem dye on the piece and vary your
filing 90 degrees every so often so you can see the high spots.
Other than that you just have to file a lot of metal and eventually
your get the hang of it, or you'll get so annoyed that you'll spring
for a surface grinder.

Good Luck

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From al@chelmsford.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bridgeport Spindle
Date: 16 Jun 1996 16:31:26 GMT
Organization: Chelmsford On-Line Services	
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4q1csu$ebu@server1.chelmsford.com>
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
>  I decided to sharpen a batch of end mills on the mill,
>which I have worked out a procedure to do.  

 I know that this has nothing to do with what you where discussing, but 
please elaborate on the above mentioned procedure you have worked out to 
sharpen end mills on the mill. 

 I would love to hear what you have come up with. I'm sure others here 
would as well. Thanks, 
                       AL



From billg63475@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BridgePort Series 1 = cnc ?
Date: 17 Jun 1996 08:14:27 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <31C084C3.30E@ccm.jf.intel.com>, Marc Davis
<Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com> writes:

>
>Do you have one of thair mill conversions?  

Yes, I have several of their software packages and a couple of the
hardware systems.

>How well does it work? 

I have been making parts for over 2 years now, and have recomended the
system to several people who are using their machines for various
operations from drilling holes in circuit boards to making molds. I am not
a machinist, but have made some fairly complex parts. The next catalog
>from  AhHa will have some pictures of some of the parts that I have made.


> Do you find the open loop system they use to be a problem?  

I cant remember the last time that I stalled a motor, or lost any steps. I
recently checked on the cost of a servo retrofit package, it was about 4
times more expensive than the top of the line AhHa system and their cost
to install and tune up the system was over $5000.00. More than my
pocketbook can afford. 

I think that one of AhHa's slogans is 80% of functionality for 20% of the
cost


>What about the backlash compinsation?

A very simple entry in the softwares cnc setup menu enables backlash
compensation. 


Note:

Their software is easily configurable to drive most any Stepper driver
system that uses step and direction input signals. Even the most basic
package has more features than I could possibly describe here. 

I believe that they have demo disks available that gives you a real good
idea of how the software looks and operates.

Bill



From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can quick change gears be adapted to MODEL 200 LOGAN LATHE
Date: 17 Jun 1996 12:26:05 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 12
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>> I own a model 200 Logan lathe and I'm wondering if a quick change can
be adapted to it? If so where could a person find one? <<

We can provide a new one.  E-Mail or call for more info.  See my sig for
a pointer to our Web page with complete mailing and fax info.
 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bearing Races
Date: 17 Jun 1996 12:26:07 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
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References: <31C03AF8.601A@millennianet.com> <1996Jun15.152114.9216@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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In article <1996Jun15.152114.9216@bbxrbk.ba sis.com>, From 
russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler), the following was written:
>  Most bearing races are made from a hardened 5160,
> and that stuff is plently hard.

Russ,

You're right about them being hard, but I think the material is usually
52100 Steel - Even harder than 5160. (This according to
Torrington/Fafnir catalog)
 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe spart parts for sale or trade
Date: 17 Jun 1996 12:26:09 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 12
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Chris,

FWIW, those are not Logan Parts.  Or at least they weren't made by
either Logan Engineering or Logan Actuator.  The numbers you listed are
all wrong, and none of the Logan Lathes used 12DP change gears.
 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From SLogan@gnn.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why instant reversing?
Date: 17 Jun 1996 12:26:12 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 33
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In article <4prjlh$bd@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.co m>, From Charlie Greenman 
<greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>, the following was written:
> So for any thread if you always pickup on say "2", you'll
> be fine.

Actually, it's not even that complicated.  There are some tricks that
are not often known about threading.

#1    If you have an 8TPI lead screw and are cutting any multiple of
8TPI (ie 8, 16, 24, 32, 40 etc.), you don't need ANY thread dial.  You
can pick up the thread anywhere.

#2    This applies to Logan Lathes (and should work with any other lathe
where the thread dial makes 1 revolutions per 2 inches of carriage
travel):  When cutting ODD number threads (5, 7, 9, 11 etc.), engage the
half nut on one of the 2 numbered marks an the dial.  When cutting EVEN
number threads, engage the half nut at any of the 4 marks on the dial. 
When cutting half-numbered threads (4½, 5½, 11½ etc.) engage the half
nut at the SAME mark on the dial.

#3    For other pitches (metric, ¼ pitch, special etc.) you will
probably have to keep the half nut engaged, and reverse the spindle to
bring the tool back to the starting point.

#4    MEASURE TWICE - CUT ONCE!  And start with a piece of scrap
material if you not too sure.
 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From billg63475@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:33 EDT 1996
Article: 29854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell vertical mills?
Date: 17 Jun 1996 08:39:12 -0400
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In the Los Angeles Recycler there is an add for a Clausing Micro Mill and
a baby Bridgeport.

The number is:

310-941-7610

Good Luck


From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:22:27 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
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In article <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com>, Jim & Tina Carmichael
<acarmich@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> david allen wrote:
> > 
> > does anyone know of a source for a small diesel engine (1 to 3 hp)?  I
want to
> > put it on a small generator to provide a continuous, constant power source
> > (1000 watts max).
> > 
> > thanks
> > 
> > da
> 
> 
> China Diesel Imports (CDI) of Jamul, CA (near San Diego).  They 
> advertise in Mother Earth News, and sell small diesel motor and 
> generator combinations.

Has anyone used these? One of my pipe dreams is to build a residential
co-generation system (5-8kw) and wonder if one of these might be a
candidate.

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From onm010@uni-essen.de Tue Jun 18 10:31:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: onm010@uni-essen.de (Dr. Stefan P. Mueller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 14:40:43 +0200
Organization: Nuklearmedizin Uniklinik Essen
Lines: 17
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In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
wrote:

> I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
> turbine engine...

Recently I stumbled avross a web page mentioning a small jet engine:

     http://itrinews.itri.org.tw/english/today/rd/to-3-07b.htm

I never thought anybody would try to build one, even less what it might cost.

Stefan

-- 
Dr. Stefan P. Mueller, Nuklearmedizin, Universitaetsklinikum, Essen,
 e-mail: onm010@uni-essen.de, phone: <49> 201/ 723-4179, FAX: -5964


From ddenter@magi.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ddenter@magi.com (Dean Denter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 17 Jun 1996 02:24:29 GMT
Organization: iSTAR internet inc.
Lines: 41
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In article <4q1qrd$stu@news.ix.net>,
   jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net (Mike Fallopian) wrote:
>Have you considered that it might be plastic?
>
>

not if its like the ones I have...

>In article <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>, tsjohnso@uoguelph.ca says...
>>
>>Hey there...
>>
>>I found this "silver" coloured very very lightweight bowl in the dollar 
>>store... bought for a buck beleive it or not :)
>>
>>It reminds me very much of aluminum foil, but it's thicker.  I can dent 
>>by pressing my finger on it a bit.
>>
>>My question is, would this be made of aluminum.  And if so, should it 
>>have had an appropriate warning about foodstuffs.  Or was it perhaps 
>>some other kinds of metal.  It's not foil by any stretch, because it's 
>>the thickness of your basic kitchen stainless steel bowls ... but it's 
>>softer and very light.
>>
>>I picked it up, because I thought it would be perfect for simple and 
>>quick repousse or chasing work.  Has anyone who has done this sort of 
>>work with aluminum have any suggestions?
>>
>>-T. Shawn...
>

I have some, they're a very thing steel (I think) maybe even a type of
stainless.  The ones I have are not aluminum.  I bought them for hiking
and camping, so their light weight is very desirable.  

Just be aware that they are extremely easy to puncture (I've put a fork
through one, and I cut through another with a dull knife).

later,
Dean.
--


From ddenter@magi.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:34 EDT 1996
Article: 29858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ddenter@magi.com (Dean Denter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 17 Jun 1996 02:27:02 GMT
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In article <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>,
   shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa) wrote:
>In article <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>,
>Shawn T Johnson <tsjohnso@uoguelph.ca> wrote:
>>I found this "silver" coloured very very lightweight bowl in the dollar 
>>store... bought for a buck beleive it or not :)
>>It reminds me very much of aluminum foil, but it's thicker.  I can dent 
>>by pressing my finger on it a bit.
>>My question is, would this be made of aluminum.  And if so, should it 
>>have had an appropriate warning about foodstuffs.  Or was it perhaps 
>
>What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum
>bowls?
>
>I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't
>know about some public health law here that bans putting food in
>aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any
>event?
>

There are several studies that say that aluminum is bad for you,
and many doctors that recomend that you not use aluminum for cooking.
I still see lots of aluminum pans in the stores here in Ottawa, and
I have yet to see one of the warnings referred to above.

later,
Dean.
--


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: One of those days (long)
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 10:30:38 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>
CC: utjp04a@Prodigy.com

Edward Haas wrote:
> 
>         OK, here's the problem: I've been using a stepper motor to drive
> the X-axis leadscrew on my Bridgeport, but it finally up and died. It
> looks like one of the reasons might have been a creeping misalignment
> which, transmitted through a funky U-joint coupling, caused an
> intermittent side load that nuked the motor. The solution: replace funky
> coupling with something nice like a helical coupling.
>          OK, I go to the bin and find one, but it's got a bore that's
> undersized by .062in. So-- how to hold it to drill it out accurately?
> It's kinda floppy, so it can't be just chucked in the lathe and turned.
>         I decided to slip it in to a closely-bored piece of pipe, hold it
> in place with setscrews and put the pipe in the lathe chuck (jaws only
> stick out about 3/4in.; the pipe sticks out 4in. to hold all of coupling)
> and then bore. Well, the pipe is under-sized by about .010in. and I
> realized that Idon't have a boring bar holder that will fit the Omni-Post
> on my Myford, so first I had to make a boring bar holder.
>         I grab the barstock to make the holder, turn on the saw and realize
> that it's been so long since I cleaned it that the filter is plugged and the
> pump hose is cracked with age. It was Sunday so I had to wait a day to get a
> $.50 piece of hose. Cleaning the saw and getting it working right took
> a day, doing it in 2-minute increments (the part-changing rate of a CNC
> job I was running at the time...).
>         Got the part cut, layed out and started whittling. One feature of
> the holder is a big hole in the back, where it mounts on the Omni-post.
> It took 4 hours of rummaging to find the boring head (in 2-minute
> increments).
>         Got the part bored, drilled and tapped the clamping bolt hole,
> then sawed the split and got all clamped onto the lathe, where I intended
> to mount a center-drill in the chuck, then creep up on it with the
> toolholder mounted on the compound, in order to spot the center of the
> hole to be made for the boring bar. I flip the drum switch and smoke
> comes out: it's dead. $77.- for a new switch that had 3 poles to a side:
> the only one available in town, that the guy at the counter said would
> work fine; sorry no refunds (the old one had 4 poles to a side).
>         Couldn't figure out how to wire the thing up, so took motor off
> of lathe and down to electrician with new switch, to get all wired up
> correctly: the electrician had left for the day, since there wasn't
> enough work. Next day, after dropping another $81.- for the wiring, I took
> all back to the shop, but getting the motor bolted to the swinging mounting
> plate as a 4-handed job. Waited to sweetie got back from the market and
> had her pry up with a 4-ft. long 1x2 wedged underneath the motor while I
> tightened the bolts. Got all aligned and back together in only 2 days.
>         Spotted the hole and got the boring bar hole bored just right.
> Put all together and mounted the pipe, ready for boring last night.
>         The moral of the story: routine maintenance is a good thing and
> knowing where everything is helps a bit, too: I'm setting up a table in
> Word that has the name of all of my tooling and their *exact* location
> indicated. Hope I remember to update the data... *Maybe* I'll get that
> $158.50 hole drilled tonight... Still, I wish I'd bought the correct
> coupling to begin with...
> --
>         "Steamboat Ed" Haas     :       When fortune proves elusive,
>         COMING SOON             :       Concentrate on fame...
>         http://www.west.net/~steamer
>                 ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
> 

We probably all have a day like that occasionally, Ed.
I'm not laughing...!

Paul in AJ AZ


From steamer@west.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:35 EDT 1996
Article: 29860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cinncinati-Milacron VMC Problems
Date: 16 Jun 1996 10:49:00 -0700
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Leonard Dye (xltool@earthlink.net) wrote:
: >post responses.  We are specifically looking for problems with
: >underpowered servos and tracking error.
	--Well I haven't got one of those, but my CNC had similar 
problems until it was determined that the way lube was too gummy down at 
the bottom of the sump. Cleaned it out and switched to a lighter grade 
and the problems went away...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	When fortune proves elusive, 	
	COMING SOON		:	Concentrate on fame...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From clica@delphi.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: clica@delphi.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can Electropolishing be easily done in Home Workshop?
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 96 20:58:09 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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X-To: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>

Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk> writes:
 
>Has anyone put together an electropolishing setup, what is involved in 
>doing this process.
>
 
Try adding some glycerine to the phosphoric acid that some one else mentioned.
The glycerol will make the surface have a shiny finish. Try variuos current
densities to get the right kind of finish and penetration into holes or
crevices. Does not take mush experimentation to get it right,


From barronr@mail.erols.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.erols.com!newsmaster@erols.com
From: Reginald Barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blue Ridge number needed
Date: 17 Jun 1996 01:05:44 GMT
Organization: Home
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PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Doug Palmer wrote:
>> 
>> I was wondering if anyone out there knows the phone #/address of
>> Blue Ridge. They sell lots of tools, including lathe tools. That's all I
>> know about them.
>> 
>> Doug
>
>1-304-562-3538
>
>Paul in AJ AZ


Or 800-872-6500

Address 2905 Putnam Ave Hurricane WV 25526



From mouser@zercom.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:36 EDT 1996
Article: 29863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mouser@zercom.net (Martin-Gilles Lavoie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Damascus info requr.
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 10:12:50 -0500
Organization: Groupimage, inc.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.191.6.170

Friends and I have recently bought an old (100 years+) forge which we will
be moving to another location so that we can start experimenting with the
art of blacksmithing.  (We do realise it'll take a couple of years to get
something usefull done out of it.)

While this forge is setup properly, I have found a suplier of Damascus
steel--a steel that evolved from Indian Wootz, which the japanese used for
their swords.

I'd like to know if anybody out there had been using Damascus steel, and
what sorts of hints/techniques/tips/ideas they can suggest so that we can
get started.

-- 
Martin-Gilles Lavoie



From sidd@pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!not-for-mail
From: sidd@pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu (Siddhartha Mukherjee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: 16 Jun 1996 16:33:36 -0400
Organization: Ohio State University Physics Dept.
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4q1r30$ebp@pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu>
References: <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk> <4ps7kt$8bv@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu

i .. i didnt see the original article but i have the original manulas f
for 7475 plotters bot rs232 and GPIB(ieee-488)..

if the original poster still needs , please email me and i can email
or post..

i also have an rs232 cable for it that i can get the pinouts for 
since i made it meself about 7 yeears ago .....
.



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:37 EDT 1996
Article: 29865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re: broke tap ... now what
Date: 17 Jun 1996 14:06:47 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4q3opn$4f5@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4ptgq1$qrk@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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On tap guides:

Yes!  Makes a world of difference.  I highly recommend the Walton
piloted spindle tap wrench.  It comes in two sizes, one for taps
up to about 1/4" and the other for taps up to about 1/2". They're
basically a T-handle tap wrench with a round spindle about 1"
long coming out the top.  The routine is to drill the tap hole,
take the drill out of the chuck, put the spindle of the tap wrench
*loosely* into the drill chuck so it can turn, and use the drill
chuck to hole the tap wrench straight while you turn it by hand.

The Walton brand of these is expensive, but worth it, IMO.  There
is an import knock-off that is cheaper, but totally useless. The
jaws don't hold the tap concentrically.



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSS grades of toolbits, lathe
Date: 17 Jun 1996 14:20:12 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4q3pis$4f5@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4pp06v$jj7@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
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To: congreve@ix.netcom.com

I've had really good luck with Cleveland Twist Drill's "Mo-Max Cobalt"
toolbits.  




From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:38 EDT 1996
Article: 29867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!alph02.triumf.ca!shoppa
From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 16 Jun 1996 20:52:13 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
References: <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>,
Shawn T Johnson <tsjohnso@uoguelph.ca> wrote:
>I found this "silver" coloured very very lightweight bowl in the dollar 
>store... bought for a buck beleive it or not :)
>It reminds me very much of aluminum foil, but it's thicker.  I can dent 
>by pressing my finger on it a bit.
>My question is, would this be made of aluminum.  And if so, should it 
>have had an appropriate warning about foodstuffs.  Or was it perhaps 

What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum
bowls?

I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't
know about some public health law here that bans putting food in
aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any
event?

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From sjoseph@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: sjoseph@ix.netcom.com(Steven Lepine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: AIR COMPRESSOR QUESTION?
Date: 15 Jun 1996 22:30:54 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4pvdiu$2aj@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nor-la2-11.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 15  5:30:54 PM CDT 1996

Hi,

I am interested in buying an air compressor with enough capability to
secure and remove lug-nuts on automobile wheels.  

I do not need it to operate for long periods of time...

Suggestions on ratings, hp, cfm, psi, volume, etc. are welcome.

Thanks 
Steven  


From sdr@sdr.com.au Tue Jun 18 10:31:39 EDT 1996
Article: 29869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.mel.connect.com.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!news.cs.su.oz.au!tmx!news.tmx.com.au!NewsWatcher!user
From: sdr@sdr.com.au (Roger Lainson)
Subject: Re: "Diamond" toolholder?
Message-ID: <sdr-1406961624330001@192.168.0.2>
Nntp-Posting-Host: gateway.sdr.com.au
Sender: news@online.tmx.com.au (System Administrator)
Organization: SDR
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 06:24:33 GMT
References: <4pp019$ocr@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>
X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+
Lines: 35

In article <4pp019$ocr@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>, congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm.
Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:

>                     
> (Posting for John Haddy, who seems to be receiving this newsgroup but
> is temporarily unable to post to it): Any opinions and comments on the
> Diamond Toolholder, a tangential tool bit holder for lathes? I gather
> from the ad that only a single face needs to be ground on the bit, with
> the toolholder itself holding the bit so that all reliefs are ok.  Am I
> correct in assuming that the support of the bit assures that there is
> more mechanical strength and less chatter?  (I would be using it on a
> Myford 7).

I use mine almost all the time (except for parting off and infrequent LH
facing) mostly because it's really easy to whip out, sharpen and set back
at centre height. I'm lousy at offhand grinding so with other tools I
always grind off heaps too much trying to get the edge at the right angle,
or something. 

The Diamond comes with a neat little jig to hold it on the grinding rest
at the correct angle; really easy. It's also convenient to have a single
length of HSS with both ends sharpened but with different corner radii.
Provided you get the holder size appropriate for your lathe, it's also
very rigid.

The same people also make a conventional but neat parting tool holder. 
I've no connection with the manufacturer - just a very satisfied user!

Roger Lainson.

-------------------------SDR Clinical Technology------------------------
          213 Eastern Valley Way, Middle Cove, NSW 2068, Australia
Voice: +61-2-9958-2688     Fax: +61-2-9958-2655    email: sdr@sdr.com.au
           World Wide Web: http://www.sdr.com.au/sdr/index.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:40 EDT 1996
Article: 29870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 10:17:55 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <jnaylor-1506961017550001@192.0.2.1>
References: <31bf03f5.191733217@news.hiwaay.net> <4pn4jc$l30@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <jnaylor-1306960030040001@192.0.2.1> <4psurk$660@crl4.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

In article <4psurk$660@crl4.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) wrote:

> In article <jnaylor-1306960030040001@192.0.2.1>,
> Jim Naylor <jnaylor@southwind.net> wrote:
> >In article <4pn4jc$l30@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, clhuprich@aol.com
> >(Clhuprich) wrote:
> >
> >>    In general these tanks have a coating on the inside to resist rust --
> >> you
> >> may wish to inspect the inside of yours.
> >> 
> >> Cliff Huprich
> >
> >Umm, Cliff--I'm having a little trouble getting the light down inside
> >there. Got any hints please?

> If you are really serious about inspecting the inside of your tank, pull 
> out the water drain cock and use a bore-scope to look around in there.
> 
Thanks Jerry, but my tongue was firmly planted, cheekwise. Not being the
proud owner of a bore scope or any other suitable optical device (nor
knowing anyone to mooch, er borrow one from), I simply rely on keeping it
well drained, with emphasis on *often*. Before I ever hooked it up, I
replaced the drain plug with an easy to reach valve.

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:42 EDT 1996
Article: 29871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!news.mindlink.net!line053.nwm.mindlink.net!pevans
From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 10mm x 26 tap and die source?
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 01:53:02 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <pevans.282.31C4BA7D@mindlink.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: line053.nwm.mindlink.net
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

Bicycle tool catalogue quotes $68 tot for the pair, this hurts as I also want 
9mm x 26.  


From brettj@connectnet.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:43 EDT 1996
Article: 29872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.connectnet.com!usenet
From: brettj@connectnet.com (Brett Jungblut)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Darking welding helmets
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 16:19:32 GMT
Organization: CONNECTnet Internet Network Services (service provider)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4punpa$h2v@news.connectnet.com>
References: <bobfa-1306961535420001@dd381.comm.mot.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm-1-1.tm.connectnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

bobfa@comm.mot.com (Bob Fairbairn) wrote:

>I am interested to know if you can use the autodarking welding helmets
>when welding with oxyactelyn torch?  Do the helmets "grey out" or do they
>switch to arc welding dark?  What are the good brands?

L-Tec makes an excellent helmet that you can adjust the shade from (I
believe) 5 to 18.  Most others you have to change the entire lens for
shade levels.  
	..brett..




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:44 EDT 1996
Article: 29873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam engines in NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 06:59:23 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <31C564BB.6FD8@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4q18jq$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <4q3c8v$sas@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Jun 17  6:58:33 AM PDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: hacker@worldnet.att.net

hacker@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> 
> allend@pt.cyanamic.com (david allen) wrote:
> 
> >are there any groups

> David,
>   I tried to Email you but it Bounced, 
> Ron Bach

Ron:

I thought I was the only one who got bounced when replying to David.
I'm still trying to get used to Netscape.

My bounced message said that there was no such server.

Paul in AJ AZ


From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!bt!NewsWatcher!user
From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question on Lathe tolerances
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:41:19 +0100
Organization: BTL
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <ncliffe-1706961541190001@132.146.65.223>
References: <31b21591.765571618@news.islandnet.com> <4ovbb1$nnt@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4pb9b0$3on@news.dx.net>
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In article <4pb9b0$3on@news.dx.net>, jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura) wrote:

> jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
> 
> >Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
> ><snip>
> >: As is, I chucked up a piece of pipe to turn it down as a test cut and
> >: I was quite horrified as to the finish. It is basically one continuous
> >: strip of tiny gouge marks - the cut was a very light cut only.
> >: Any thoughts anybody ?  I don't want to change the tool post just to
> >: find out the flex is normal or is generated in the compound slide.
 
> My experience with pipe is that  it is a difficult material to produce
> a good finish on. Before you panic, check your tool angles and
> clearances. Use a good cutting oil. Increasing the RPM will sometimes
> produce a better finish.
 
I'd also worry about the material. I don't know what your pipe is made
from, but I have a piece of 20mm steel bar which is impossible to turn to
a good finish, instead I get ridges as you describe. 
I think it is because the composition is wrong for turning. Where possible
I make sure I get stock materials to good free-cutting standards. With the
right material, and a good tool edge superb results are easy.


- Nigel.

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: 17 Jun 1996 14:26:59 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4q3pvj$o1j@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <4pkr9g$jdj@crocus.csv.warwick.ac.uk> <31bf03f5.191733217@news.hiwaay.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com

James K. Levie (levie@hiwaay.net) wrote:
: >
: While I have no "scientific evidence" as back up, I intuitively feel that,
: at the pressures involved, there isn't any significant acceleration of the
: corrosion process. Most, if not all, commercial and industrial installations

Hmm, remind me not to visit your garage.....

I live in the south SF bay area, and while not as dry as, say, Phoenix, it's
not all that damp.  Still, after a hard day's run, there's a *bunch* of
water that comes out of my tank when I drain it.  

I don't know if the pressure of O2 would increase corrosion, but oxegenated
water's alway's done a fine job for me.  Short of a dry air intake, I'd drain
the tank daily and if I had any distribution pipes, I'd either put a water
trap in, or drain them daily, too.  12 gallons of air tank at 125 PSI makes
for a respectable bomb, in my book.

Pete Brooks




From rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!marge.eaglequest.com!news.tacom.army.mil!ulowell.uml.edu!aspen!rondeauda1
From: rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for EMCO phone/address
Date: 17 Jun 96 11:59:20 -0500
Organization: Univ. of Massachusetts-Lowell
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <1996Jun17.115920.1@aspen>
NNTP-Posting-Host: aspen.uml.edu



	Does anyone have the address or phone number for EMCO?
	Looking to upgrade cnc millers and lathes that we have.

	Thanks,
	Dave


From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:45 EDT 1996
Article: 29877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dacom.co.kr!bofh.dot!usenet.seri.re.kr!bofh.dot!xpat.com!bofh.dot!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-11.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 11:28:10 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <jnaylor-1706961128100001@192.0.2.1>
References: <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca> <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

In article <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>, shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim
Shoppa) wrote:
> 
> What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum
> bowls?
> 
> I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't
> know about some public health law here that bans putting food in
> aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any
> event?

Excellent question. The "appropriate" warning might be "Danger--eat too
much of this stuff and you might get fat."

Seriously, I think there is concern in some quarters that aluminum has
some sort of link with Alzheimer's disease. I've never seen anything
suggesting actual evidence of where the link is, but conjecture points
fingers at everything from food containers to underarm deodorant. I've yet
to see anyone try to cast suspicion on riding in airplanes, but perhaps
that's because no one's thought of it yet (oops--what have I done?  Please
forgive me, Mr. Boeing.).

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From James.Foster@cdc.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!cdshub.cdc.com!usenet
From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Damascus info requr.
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 11:35:37 -0500
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <31C58959.2278@cdc.com>
References: <mouser-1706961012500001@204.191.6.170>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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> Friends and I have recently bought an old (100 years+) forge which we will
> be moving to another location so that we can start experimenting with the
> art of blacksmithing.  (We do realise it'll take a couple of years to get
> something usefull done out of it.)
> 
> While this forge is setup properly, I have found a suplier of Damascus
> steel--a steel that evolved from Indian Wootz, which the japanese used for
> their swords.
> 
> I'd like to know if anybody out there had been using Damascus steel, and
> what sorts of hints/techniques/tips/ideas they can suggest so that we can
> get started.

Well, you don't say what you're actually going to do with the Damascus,
but one starting place might be the books by Jim Hrisoulas (The Complete
Bladesmith, The Master Bladsmith, and The Pattern Welded Blade). I only
have the first one, but they seem to be a good series on pattern
welded/Damascus
steel for the purpose of making knives.                                  
                                                                       
                                                                                
                                                                       
                                                                             
x


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.comm.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 17 Jun 1996 16:24:31 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> jrro@watson.ibm.com writes:

>One impurity to be avoided with breathing mixtures is *oil* vapor.
>This will give the breather oil pneumonia, which is where the insides
>of the lung is coated with a film of oil, which basically suffocates the
>individual.

>Possibly the extra expense on "medical" grade O2 is compressing and
>transporting it so it is still oil-free at the point of use.  Most compressors
>add considerable oil vapor to the gas.

I know oil is a major concern in compressed *air* for breathing,
e.g. SCUBA, but wouldn't it be a non-factor in pure O2, for the
same reason you have to be careful to keep O2 fittings oil free
in the shop -- spontaneous oxidation?  

--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!world1.bawave.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Bearing Races
Message-ID: <1996Jun15.152114.9216@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organi[sz]ation
References: <31C03AF8.601A@millennianet.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:21:14 GMT
Lines: 16

In article <31C03AF8.601A@millennianet.com>,
Charles Koll Jewellers  <ckj@millennianet.com> wrote:
>What tool does one use to cut bearing races.  Both linear and circular.  
>Ball burrs don't seem to be perfectly round and I assume that the races 
>need to follow the same radius as the ball bearing.  Thanks in advance 
>for your help.  Dave Armstrong

Unless I'm misunderstanding you don't "cut" bearing races except in a
roughing operation.  Most bearing races are made from a hardened 5160,
and that stuff is plently hard.  Most bearing races are roughed in,
hardened and gound to final size.

-- 
Russ Kepler posting from home  russ@bbxrbk.basis.com

                      Please don't feed the Engineers


From jnaylor@southwind.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news.frontiernet.net!NEWS!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Safety
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:14:50 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <jnaylor-1706961214500001@192.0.2.1>
References: <jnaylor-1306960030040001@192.0.2.1> <4q20ja$bnu@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

In article <4q20ja$bnu@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, clhuprich@aol.com
(Clhuprich) wrote:

> In article <jnaylor-1306960030040001@192.0.2.1>, jnaylor@southwind.net
> (Jim Naylor) writes:
> 
> >>    In general these tanks have a coating on the inside to resist rust
> --
> >> you
> >> may wish to inspect the inside of yours.
> >> 
> >> Cliff Huprich
> >
> >Umm, Cliff--I'm having a little trouble getting the light down inside
> >there. Got any hints please?
> >
> >
> Jim,
>     You should be able to remove a pipe fitting from the tank and insert
> a small inspection mirror. Using a pen sized flashlight with the
> inspection
> mirror in a dark room should allow you to inspect the interior of the
> tank.

Thanks Cliff. Sorry I forgot to put the wink in my response.   ;) 

It was a tongue-in-cheek wisecrack, but now that I've thought about it a
little, I wonder what I could tell from the inspection. Even if I saw some
rust or scale (remember, the context is safety), what would that tell me?
Even if there were massive amounts of scale visible, would there really be
a safety concern? Picture putting the plug back in and starting up the
compressor on a rust perforated tank. As the pressure slowly rises and
failure occurs, wouldn't it just result in an increasingly loud hissing
sound as the pinhole enlarges under pressure, forming a self produced
relief opening?

I have two compressors--one a 5 hp on 80 gal vertical tank I use for
sandblasting, etc. I installed an easy to reach valve in its drain before
I ever pressurized it for the first time. Needless to say, I drain it
often. The other one is a 3/4 horse Sears on a portable 15 gal? horizontal
tank with the drain plug in the center of the end bulge (not easy to
drain). It has rusted through repeatedly, but I just braze it up and go on
using it. Methinks that even if a *catastrophic* failure occurred, the
worst that would happen would be a patch of thin rusted metal held
together mostly by paint and brass would be thrown down to the driveway
(or more likely just folded over) with a sound not unlike
quick-disconnecting the hose from the tank. Am I totally naive about this?
Courting disaster? In danger of launching my whole rig down my neighbor's
chimney? Ideas and opinions are welcome, but there's no hurry, I brazed
the first hole over twelve years ago.

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS



From Ulf.Tollefsen@post.skolesjefen.oslo.no Tue Jun 18 10:31:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!nntp.uio.no!ifi.uio.no!usenet
From: Ulf.Tollefsen@post.skolesjefen.oslo.no (Nils Henrik Tollefsen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: coloring pewter
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:39:38 GMT
Organization: Institute of Informatics, University of Oslo
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <4q457h$s0a@glitnir.ifi.uio.no>
References: <01bb5a0e.00f4b620$0c61fbce@lludwick.gte.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp12.larris.ifi.uio.no
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

"Larry Ludwick" <lludwick@gte.net> wrote:

>I am a complete novice to metal work and I am playing with casting
>pewter.  I am interested in making a chess set, but am not satisfied
>with simply having different colored bases for the pieces.

>I was wondering if it's possible to color pewter to make it look like 
>bronze.  Or, if not bronze, then a noticeably different shade.

>Any comments, hints, or suggestions appreciated,

>Larry

Have you considered trying to electroplate the pieces with copper?
I am trying to achieve the same thing, but I have just come to
making the moulds. 

You can read about electroplating in your encyclopedia.

Nils Henrik Tollefsen



From babcock@infi.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!pa16dsp18.orf.infi.net!babcock
From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Used Sherline mill wanted, VA
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:49:45 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <babcock.7.0004030D@infi.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pa16dsp18.orf.infi.net
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B]

I'm looking for a used Sherline milling machine.  I'm in the Tidewater area of 
Virginia.  If anyone has a lead on one, please let me know.

Thanks,  Tom
babcock@infi.net


From phil@ Tue Jun 18 10:31:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.sojourn.com!news.eecs.umich.edu!newshub.tc.umn.edu!newsstand.tc.umn.edu!!phil
From: phil@ (Phil Roban)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: 18 Jun 1996 00:13:58 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Society of Physics Students
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4q4sc6$5e3@epx.cis.umn.edu>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.rec.camping:4034 misc.forsale.non-computer:37241 rec.crafts.metalworking:29884 rec.outdoors.rv-travel:12349 sci.energy:51286

For that matter, what sort of generator would
one want to use here? 
The idea of energy-sucking field coils annoys me--does
anyone know how large an alternator/generator can be had
with permanent magnets?

Phil Roban
phil@calhoun.spa.umn.edu



From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hookup!news.nstn.ca!ott.istar!istar.net!winternet.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: #35 sprockets, source
Date: 16 Jun 1996 00:15:21 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4pvjmp$rql@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <4pcevk$fe5@nic.wat.hookup.net><4pcevk$fe5@nic.wat.hookup.net> <4pt80i$8rq@news.nstn.ca>
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In message <4pt80i$8rq@news.nstn.ca> - gsmith2@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Glen
Smith)Sat, 15 Jun 1996 06:28:35 GMT writes:
:->
:->bfairey@hookup.net (Brian Fairey) wrote:
:->
:->>I am looking for a source of #35 chain sprockets in sizes from 35-62
:->>teeth ( yes for karts). Most catalogs list these sizes to special
:->>order but I bet somewhere in North America these sizes are sitting on
:->>a shelf gathering dust. But where.
:->>Thanx.
:->>Brian.
:->>bfairey@hookup.net
:->
:->Check your yellow pages for industrial distributors or power
:->transmission houses. #35, although not as common as #40, 60 or 80, is
:->usually stocked.
:->
:->Glen Smith
:->Port Morien, NS
:->Canada
:->

I posted much the same reply, Glen. Brian is looking for odd sizes(
56, 57,58,59T, etc) which are only made to order. (of course, that's
not -exactly- what he posted, I wish people would be more specific in
their posts<g>) 

pdrumm@dwave.net
Using Warp/Neologic News/PMMail/iLink2/WebEx
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Tue Jun 18 10:31:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!torn!nott!cunews!freenet-news.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ch270
From: ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John P.Beckley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silicon bronze ingot needed in Nova Scotia
Date: 15 Jun 1996 22:08:14 GMT
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Lines: 10
Sender: ch270@freenet2.carleton.ca (John P.Beckley)
Message-ID: <4pvc8e$2fb@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
Reply-To: ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John P.Beckley)
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.carleton.ca


Starting small casting operation in Nova Scotia and need foundry supplies..
Metal, crucibles, sand etc.......

Who should I turn to.....???????? 


Thank you....

    John


From larrye@onramp.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:46 EDT 1996
Article: 29887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-11.sprintlink.net!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: Larry Edington <larrye@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Whick welding rod was it??
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:09:21 -0500
Organization: On-Ramp; Individual Internet Connections; Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 11
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I seem to remember an arc welding rod exists that a complete novice welder could use.

If they could simply strike an arc, lay the rod on the metal
at a 45 degree angle and the bead would move along unassisted.

Was I dreaming or what was the number on this rod?

I need to get some of these for a person that just can't get the hang of
a 6013 or a 7014 ( my two favorites ).

Thanks.


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:47 EDT 1996
Article: 29888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10mm x 26 tap and die source?
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:29:32 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <pevans.285.31C5A40B@mindlink.bc.ca>
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In article <31C4F290.1F9@worldnet.att.net> Peter Trapp <alpha10@worldnet.att.net> writes:


>philip evans wrote:
>> 
>> Bicycle tool catalogue quotes $68 tot for the pair, this hurts as I also want
>> 9mm x 26.

>Normal metric thread description is dia X thread pitch. ie 10mm x 1.00
>= 10mm basic diameter with 1 thread each mm 

Yup, I know that.

>Are you saying you need a 10mm tap and die with a 26mm pitch?
>I don't think so, nor am I aware of any metric english/combo threads ie 
>10mm 26tpi.

Campagnolo axles are 9 and 10mm x 26 tpi.  The story I heard was that after 
the war they had metric stock and imperial tools.

Got any firm(er) leads?


From xcprhb@oryx.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:48 EDT 1996
Article: 29889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.eng.convex.com!news.oryx.com!xcprhb
From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Kirksite composition?
Date: 17 Jun 1996 17:49:19 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4q45qv$afa@lm1.oryx.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

Does anyone know the composition of Kirksite?  I know it's a zinc-lead
alloy, but none of the books I have give the proportions.  Even better
would be a diagram showing the compressive & tensile strength of the
lead-zinc solid solution series.

I'm interested in making some press dies for some low volume aluminum
stampings,  so pointers to references that specifically deal w/ making
dies of Kirksite would also be welcome.

Thanks.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

                       Consultant/Programmer 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:49 EDT 1996
Article: 29890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!wrighta.demon.co.uk!john1
From: John G Wright <john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 20:04:29 +0100
Organization: none
Lines: 67
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <r03HYDA9waxxEwT6@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
References: <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>
 <onm010-1706961440430001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de>
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In article <onm010-1706961440430001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-
essen.de>, "Dr. Stefan P. Mueller" <onm010@uni-essen.de> writes
>In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
>wrote:
>
>> I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
>> turbine engine...
>
>Recently I stumbled avross a web page mentioning a small jet engine:
>
>     http://itrinews.itri.org.tw/english/today/rd/to-3-07b.htm
>
>I never thought anybody would try to build one, even less what it might cost.
>
>Stefan
I put the following note in Internet which has generated interest
I expect that you missed it.:-

I have been asked for help with info on making model jet turbines. They
can be made from published designs and will work. The hobby is in its
infancy and the designs are evolving. I hope others will find this info
helpful.

There are 2 books available both written by Germans and recently
translated into English the first is by Kurt Schrekling and called Gas
Tubine Engines for Model Aircraft. The second is Jet Engines by Thomas
Kamps.Both books are available from Traplet Publications and they have a
good web site at http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet the books can be
ordered on the internet and there are pictures of both front covers.  

I have made Kurt's engine and have like all involved found it an
absorbing hobby. The actual making of the parts is reasonably
straigtforward but it is not easy to make changes because there are so
many variables. The engines all tend to run hot (red hot!) and the only
succesful one is the one that runs at about 500 centigrade. I have had
results similar to those Kurt claims for the design 4.5Lbs thrust at 600
centigrade and 72,000 rpm. I have seen an engine with a revised
combustion chamber run at 6.5Lbs thrust at higher revs and still be at
less than 500 centigrade, so I know that it is possible to get good
results.

When Thomas ran his engine he was getting about 8Lbs thrust at low
temperatures but the engine is heavier than Kurt's. I have not heard of
any that have made Thomas's design yet.

Several are flying with these engines. The power to weight ratio is 1:2
so they will power an 11-12 lb model. I have only seen the videos which
look really spectacular. The sound is really like a jet with a whistle
and a roar. The noise levels are apparently lower than piston engines ,
but I still wear ear defenders when running mine on the bench!

The materials are aluminium and 310 or 316 stainless for the parts that
get hot.The compressor on Kurts engine is made of plywood! and the one
on Thomas's is a car turbocharger compressor. The welding is TIG welding
which I had the local shop do for me.
>

I hope that this note gives you enough to whet your appetite.
Incidentally the AMA has just banned the flying of home built turbines
in the US. I do not know why! Thankfully we seem to be more sensible in
the UK and are eager to learn ande develop safely.

John
>

-- 
John G Wright


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.net.uk!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:54:14 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <31c569bc.3906560@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <4q074t$ns0@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>
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The moving finger of sybok@athena.mit.edu (The Rifleman) having
written:

>Is there any secret to cutting an even, flat surface in mild steel with
>a file?  (Aside from proceeding slowly and carefully... :-)

Generally you don't. _Edges_ are hand filed, but finishing a _surface_
by hand is such an unpleasant and difficult task that you really ought
to find some piece of machinery to do it.

LTC Rolt's book "Tools For The Job" has some notes on the development
of the shaper machine as a response to the high cost of finishing good
quality surfaces by hand (chiefly steam engine valve faces).

As others have said, you'll need a surface plate and some marking
blue. Personally I'd use a slightly curved half-round hand scraper.


If you are filing an edge, then don't cut too much with the file
between checks against the square or straight-edge, held up to the
light. Use a file with the right size of teeth and make sure you don't
rock the file as you pass it over the metal.




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: glazing over sandblasted surface?
Date: 15 Jun 1996 18:27:16 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4puva4$gto@news1.svc>
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By the way,

You cut most of the excess body putty off with one of 
the cheese-grater tools before it completely hardens.
Never let the putty completely harden before you rough
shape it.

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca Tue Jun 18 10:31:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!world1.bawave.com!news.clark.net!mr.net!winternet.com!n1ott.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!news.nstn.ca!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!news.brandonu.ca!usenet
From: Warren Palmer <palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for EMCO phone/address
Date: 17 Jun 1996 21:10:29 GMT
Organization: Assiniboine Community College
Lines: 20
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Corporate Center  
Columbus, OH
1-800-841-0626


Western Office
Cerritos, CA
1-800-227-EMCO

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Warren Palmer     
Machine Shop Instructor
Assiniboine Community College
Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
(palmerw@accnet.assiniboinec.mb.ca)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:50 EDT 1996
Article: 29894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 640,000 Btu's per hour enough for brass and iron?
Date: 15 Jun 1996 18:30:17 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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I cannot answer your question but would like to point
out that pottery craft suppliers frequently carry
cast iron gas mixing nozzles that are real bargains.

Claymaker, a local supplier here in San Jose, will
sell the complete unit (minus the safety features
you mentioned) for about $25.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From rmm20@eng.amdahl.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!esiee.fr!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!insync!uuneo.neosoft.com!news2.amd.com!amd!amdahl.com!ogma.ccc.amdahl.com!netnews
From: rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Message-ID: <Dt62wA.GwC@ccc.amdahl.com>
Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (Usenet Administration)
Reply-To: rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA USA
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Lines: 25

In <4q3cd8$ba3@news2.delphi.com>, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) writes:
>PAUL wrote:
>> 
>>Back in the days of antique machinery this was done with 2 semi flat plates
>>and
>>some Hi-Spot blueing. rub the 2 blued plates together and then file the
>>not-blue spots until the plate touches all over.
>>
>Or use a flat plate as a reference. Hand filing isn't an easy skill to
>master, but with practice I think anyone can do quite a good job of it.
>
>--RC
>
I am surprised no one mentioned the type of file.
Use a smooth file (not a bastard), and make sure it is in good condition.

If you ever work with brass, keep a separate set of files for brass.
Using them on steel will ruin them for brass.

Do not drag the file on the back stroke...

 - Robert Mitchell - rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
                     robert@mithril.cupertino.ca.us




From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting an even, flat surface with a file
Date: 17 Jun 1996 17:44:01 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

To cut an even flat surface with a hand file takes a lot of practice and a
few tricks.
Use only a single cut file. This prevents chatter.
Keep it very clean with a file-card.
Make sure the workpiece is held firmly.
Never file while sitting.
Brace your feet and get your whole body into each stroke.
Light strokes are near useless.
Never apply force on the backstroke since it can dull the file by chipping
teeth.
Drawfiling will remove the most materiel.
To draw file, hold the file across the materiel, gripping one end of the
file in each hand. Pull the file torwards you while applying enormous
force. If you use a long-angle lathe file, you can really hog away the
metal. To prevent the file from clogging, keep the file teeth filled with
chalk, beeswax, or cutting wax.

The main thing to learn is keeping the file level to the floor.
Try not to flex your wrist.

It just takes practice.
I learned form an old gunsmith who could handfile a perfect 1" cube by
eye. He was amazing, and taught me an undying respect  for handfiles.

Best of luck.


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:51 EDT 1996
Article: 29897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Darking welding helmets
Date: 17 Jun 1996 17:44:03 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 32
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4q4jj3$psi@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <bobfa-1306961535420001@dd381.comm.mot.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

 bobfa@comm.mot.com (Bob Fairbairn) asked:

>I am interested to know if you can use the autodarking >welding helmets
>when welding with oxyactelyn torch?  Do the helmets "grey >out" or do
they
>switch to arc welding dark?  What are the good brands?


My Speedglass lens is a #6 lens when it is off, a #4 when on, but not
triggered, and a shade #9 -#13 when triggered by a welding arc.
To use it for oxy-acet I just leave it off.
The shade darkness is set by a button that steps it between the shades.

The best brand on the market is Hornell- Speedglass, but they are also the
most expensive. My XL lens costs $375.

Best of lucks


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From jhrisoulas@aol.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Japanese and Wootz? Huh???!
Date: 17 Jun 1996 18:04:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 31
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

As far as I can tell, the Japanese use and manufacture of tahama gane iron
and the tradiotnal Indo-Persian wootz manufactruring techniques are not
anywhere close.

Tahama gane results are very similar to the European bloomery iron as the
techniques are very similar, in the fact that the iron ore is not reduced
to full liquidus....This results in a sponge like mass of ferric material
that need to be worked considerably...Very similar to the traditional
wrought iron masses produced in the Western culture until the advent of
the Bessemer process late in the 19th Century..

Wootz, on the other had uses bloom iron, along with various organic and
inorganic carbon souces as a "raw" material and then this is placed into a
crucible, sealed and then brought to full liquidus for a determined
ammount of time and then slowly cooled, resulting the material that is
common known as Wootz (Sorry about the condensed version of this but I
could [maybe I will] write a book on this subject alone)....

There is no similarity between the Japanese, western European and other
cultural techniques of pattern welded materials (what is so commonly
called "Damascus") and the Wootz process.  These materials don't even look
anything like each other.

Having made a considerable ammount of both steels, believe me, they are
very different in terms of manufacture, forging, heat treating and in
visual appearences....  I would suggest that if I were in your position, I
would most certainly check my sources again, I feel that they may be less
than reliable on this....

Dr James P. Hrisoulas
Metallographer, Author, Lecturer....


From jay@ftp.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!lard.ftp.com!seashore.ftp.com!jay
From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: One of those days (long)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 18:40:24
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <960617184024@seashore.ftp.com>
References: <4pujf0$u2@acme.sb.west.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: seashore.ftp.com
NNTP-Software: PC/TCP NNTP

In article <4pujf0$u2@acme.sb.west.net> steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:
<snip>
>indicated. Hope I remember to update the data... *Maybe* I'll get that 
>$158.50 hole drilled tonight... Still, I wish I'd bought the correct 
>coupling to begin with...



Great saga...how true....yup, the actual part making time is 13.9 minutes
and the associated looking/checking/finding/setup is 47.2 minutes!
Thanks for your post.

You know you are getting old when
1.	you can't find the thing within 10 seconds
2.	halfway through your search you find something else and promptly
		forget what you were first looking for!

:-)    :-)   :-)



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:52 EDT 1996
Article: 29900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ycc.yale.edu!yale!gumby!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: used steel drawer cabinets, blade shear
Date: 17 Jun 1996 22:34:01 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4q4mgp$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <4po0n5$sum@li.oro.net> <4pq557$3cm@newsreader.wustl.edu> <xlch58Dszs9M.M9M@netcom.com>
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xlch58@netcom.com wrote:
: I bought and see old punch card drawers all the time for $25 to $50.  They 	
: usually have 20-22 drawers 3" high and 8" wide approximately.  They 
: usually have double slide drawers and each pair of drawers comes out on a 
: tray.  Each drawer will then lift out and can be carried to the work area. 
: I see these sold a lot at Utility company and telephone company auctions.
: They are almost always bought as parts cabinits since they don't fit much 
: anything else useful.  You can also find index card cabinets that will 
: work as well but they are more expensive and usually have a lot of 
: cutouts that make them a poor choice for small loose items. 

Yes, we have quite a few of these around here, too.  They are not much
good for what the original requestor wanted.  They are narrow and shallow.
I think he wanted drawers for mills, drills, etc.  I think you need
drawers with something like 5 - 7" height, and a width of at least 12"
to be able to utilize the space.  For storing screws and similar hardware,
these would be more useful.  We use them to store 8 mm data tapes, and
they are perfect for that.  The Lista cabinets I saw had 11 drawers,
10 of them something like 6" high, and one 10-12" high, 36" deep and
48" wide.  You can put a lot of tooling in a cabinet like that!  And these
cabinets were built of very heavy gauge steel, so you could put many
hundreds of pounds of tools in it without any strain at all.


From sbowen@osf1.gmu.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!portal.gmu.edu!osf1.gmu.edu!sbowen
From: sbowen@osf1.gmu.edu (SUSAN K. BOWEN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Request for Hand-tooling Metal Techniques
Date: 17 Jun 1996 22:54:50 GMT
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, Virginia, USA
Lines: 20
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Hello!

This is a request for information, such as books, on how to work metal
by hand without a forge or welding set-up.

I am partial to hand-filing but need to learn more. Especially how to bend the 
end of metal rods to make hooks.

Someone in another post mentioned Lindsay. Are there other authors, too?

Thank you for the time and patience.

If I get enough techniques from on-line sources, I will repost them in a
summary.

Sue



"Change the tools and you change the rules."


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: 17 Jun 1996 22:50:16 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@lime.wustl.edu
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Joshua_Putnam (josh@WOLFENET.COM) wrote:
: In <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> jrro@watson.ibm.com writes:

: >One impurity to be avoided with breathing mixtures is *oil* vapor.
: >This will give the breather oil pneumonia, which is where the insides
: >of the lung is coated with a film of oil, which basically suffocates the
: >individual.

: >Possibly the extra expense on "medical" grade O2 is compressing and
: >transporting it so it is still oil-free at the point of use.  Most compressors
: >add considerable oil vapor to the gas.

: I know oil is a major concern in compressed *air* for breathing,
: e.g. SCUBA, but wouldn't it be a non-factor in pure O2, for the
: same reason you have to be careful to keep O2 fittings oil free
: in the shop -- spontaneous oxidation?  

You BET!  The only oil-like material that won't blow sky high in the
presence of compressed O2 is some silicone oils.  Any ordinary oil
will cause a disaster if it was in a gas bottle with 2000 PSI O2.
Oil on the outside of the tank in the presence of a small leak will
do the same!  I know.  When I went to work for NASA, the radio/CCTV
building looked awful new.  I wndered how come they just got a new
building.  A week later, I found out.  They used to have a big (200 CF?)
tank of O2 in the shop, and the people who put up antennas and camera
mounts had a couple portable Oxy-Acetylene torches with 20 CuF tanks.
They refilled the little tanks from the big tank.  One time, somebody got
some greasy stuff on the outside of the big tank.  Some time later,
somebody was refilling a small tank, and the fittings didn't seal
properly, causing a tiny leak at the valve.  The Oxygen gas, just cold
after expanding, slid down the outside of the tank as a gas film.
It lit the greasy stuff, which someone immediately put out.  But then
he noticed the tank was getting hot at that spot, and ran out of the
building yelling "the Oxygen tank's going to blow!!!!" and pulling the
fire alarm.  Everybody ran out, including some people who dove out
windows rather than run down the hall PAST the room where the tanks were.
They barely got to the bunker (this WAS a rocket-launch site, remember)
before the building went up!  It literally rained mobile radios and
TV monitors that day!  It took nearly a week to clean up the wreckage,
which was distributed over a couple-block area.

I noted that there were NO oxy-acetylene rigs, portable, fixed or anything
anywhere in the new radio/CCTV building.  When something needed welding,
they got someone from the machine shop to go out and weld it.


From KXMN09A@prodigy.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:53 EDT 1996
Article: 29903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KXMN09A@prodigy.com (William Conklin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam locomotive boiler tools
Date: 17 Jun 1996 22:58:22 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4q4nue$1eq0@useneta1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.168.253.46
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2


  Looking for tools unique to steam locomotive boiler repair:

   Hot rivet tools and bucks
   boiler flue prossers/reamers/rolls
   superheater tools
   
   leads on the above greatly appreciated!

    Replies via E-mail
    Bill Conklin 




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TOOL GRINDER
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 07:12:00 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <31C17330.2139@ix.netcom.com>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960614094647.142895A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az8-06.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jun 14  9:11:22 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>

David Einhorn wrote:
> 
> Do you have the fax number for catalog requests for MSC handy?
> Thank you very much.
> 

Phone:  1-800-645-7270
Fax:    1-800-255-5067

Orders seem to be shipped just as fast.  Their top management
apparently has a mission, instead of just a position.
You may need a coaster wagon to haul that catalog around!

> On Thu, 13 Jun 1996, PPIERCE wrote:
> 
> > I FAXED MSC FOR A CATALOG ON A MONDAY AND RECEIVED IT ON WEDNESDAY!!!
> >
> > PAUL IN AJ AZ
> >
> >

Paul in AJ AZ


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:54 EDT 1996
Article: 29905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp24.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TOOL GRINDER
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:55:50 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <r.lee-1406961055500001@ppp24.nantucket.net>
References: <31C0A6E2.13B@ix.netcom.com>

In article <31C0A6E2.13B@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:


> YOU HAD PURCHASED A TOOL GRINDER AT THE EASTEC SHOW FROM TRAVERS TOOL.
> HAVE YOU RECEIVED IT?
> DOES IT DO WHAT YOU HAD HOPED?

No need to shout Paul Im' here

Re the catalog... give em a voice call on that to the 800 number...

the RomerIII is working well but the documentation is the pits... written
by the inventor who assumes that every one who buys the unit (which is not
a grinder itself but rather a micro adjustable jig that works with your
existing grinder) is a veteran tool maker... I have enough of a background
in making my own tools to use it but even I had to scratch my head and sit
through a beer or three to figure out how to cut a concave radius to make
a rounding over bit... I was able to convert a trashed 3/4 endmill into a
ball end mill in less than 10 min though... that use was quite obvious...
as is using the micro adjust protractor as a replacement for the standard
on on the carbide grinder for normal brazed carbide or HSS lathe bits ...

the tool is well made and I think worth the $200 promo price...(you might
still talk them into the promo price if you took the "I saw it at the show
and realy liked it" aproach) at $250 I would insist on a good set of
instructions though... Travers says they are aware of the problem and have
assigned inhouse people to a rewrite of the manual.

~R
Windshadow Engineering


From nykwish@msn.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: nykwish@msn.com (T Wish)
Subject: RE: Whick welding rod was it??
Date: 17 Jun 96 23:40:48 -0700
References: <31C59F51.3C70@onramp.net>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+00002c39@msn.com>
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cyberspace.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.msn.com!msn.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 4

Try 7024, or 7018.  E7018 is a little trickier, but more versatile 
for all position welding.  Also, E7018 can be used with AC or DCEP 
power sources.  E7024 is mean't more for downhand welding and higher 
production rates.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Jun 18 10:31:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!tin.monsanto.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!lime!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTD: Anodizing Dyes
Date: 18 Jun 1996 04:37:48 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 9
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AM 3780 (art@ME.uvic.ca) wrote:
: I am looking for Black (MLW), or other colors anodizing dyes. Clarion
: (Sandoz) sells them only in minimum quantities of 5 kg, while I need less
: than a kilo. Would anyone have an idea where I could buy lesser
: quantities.

Kepro in Fenton, MO sells black aluminum anodizing dye for their aluminum
anodized nameplate kit.  They sell it in small quantities.  The phone # is
800-325-3878 or 314-343-1630.


From walter@walter.airtime.co.uk Tue Jun 18 10:31:55 EDT 1996
Article: 29908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (walter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: regunbarrel drilling
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 00:46:39
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Barrels are bored with a D bit, barrel straightening is done in a special vice 
the interior is viewed towards a cross painted on a window this causes a 
shadow to appear in the barrel, which shows the barrel straightener which way 
the barrel is bent and how much to correct with the vice.

Walter 


From mettlewk@cris.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: coloring pewter
Date: 18 Jun 1996 00:11:01 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
Lines: 23
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Have it brass plated and put some thinned down gun blueing on the brass.

"Larry Ludwick" <lludwick@gte.net> wrote:
>I am a complete novice to metal work and I am playing with casting
>pewter.  I am interested in making a chess set, but am not satisfied
>with simply having different colored bases for the pieces.
>
>I was wondering if it's possible to color pewter to make it look like 
>bronze.  Or, if not bronze, then a noticeably different shade.
>
>Any comments, hints, or suggestions appreciated,
>
>Larry


-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson  Metals, Stone, Mixed Media
  8600 NE O'DEAN AVE, ELK RIVER, MN 55330
  URL: http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/




From wwd@netheaven.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:56 EDT 1996
Article: 29910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwd@netheaven.com (Vacuo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Model Boiler!
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 12:09:10 GMT
Organization: Carbon-dating
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <31c69beb.1300315@news.netheaven.com>
References: <833111588.14920.0@ciseq48.demon.co.uk> <nD4D63A39@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk> <4p2us0$1gu@excalibur.edge.net>
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vrbass@edge.net (Vance Bass) wrote:

>mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins) wrote:
>
>>eq48@cityscape.co.uk (Hemel Hempstead School) wrote:
>
>>>  Any info on reference books that I can get in the UK would be
>>> appreciated.
>
>>  Model Boilers and Boilermaking by K N Harris is probably still
>>available from Nexus -  in Hemel Hempstead!
>
>My opinion of Harris' book (as a beginning machinist/boilermaker) is
>that is is probably a very useful book AFTER you know how to make
>boilers.  For starters, I would recommend one of Kozo Hiraoka's books
>-- he has made the most difficult and arcane procedures understandable
>and feasable.
>
>His books are available through Live Steam magazine -- they should be
>reachable by phone, and if you have a charge card they can charge you
>the price in dollars and the bank will do the conversion to Sterling.
>
Could someone give the listings referred to here.
Thanx,
Vacuo  (newbie)


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Tue Jun 18 10:31:57 EDT 1996
Article: 29911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silicone Rubber Mold Making
Date: 18 Jun 1996 07:50:10 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 30
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In article <31C61281.7A4B@gte.net>, Larry Ludwick <lludwick@gte.net> 
says:
>
>Does anyone on the group have experience making molds suitable
>for low temperature metals such as tin, lead, and pewter.  I 
>was steered toward Dow Corning's Silastic -- only to find there
>are about twenty different types of silastic.
>
>I am looking for a relatively simple, room temperature vulcanizing,
>silicon rubber material for making molds for pewter items.
>
>Any help appreciated,
>
>Larry

I use silicone materials sold to the model building community.  It is 
repackaged so it does not necessarily have the original manufacturer's 
type number on it.  I have used two sources; Ace Resin (don't have their 
address handy) and BareMetal. The later has a web site, do a search on 
the name.

I have used the Ace compound extensively.  It pours with very high 
viscosity, but settles well.  Also has limited shelf life.  I have just 
bought the new stuff from BareMetal.  It is supposed to have low 
viscosity.  Hope to try it this coming weekend.

Also, I have used Plaster of Paris for parts which do not have extensive 
fine detail, and no undercutting.
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From mouser@zercom.net Tue Jun 18 10:31:58 EDT 1996
Article: 29912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.mel.connect.com.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!rcogate.rco.qc.ca!neon.mlink.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: mouser@zercom.net (Martin-Gilles Lavoie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Damascus info requr.
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:06:51 -0500
Organization: Groupimage, inc.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <mouser-1806960906510001@204.191.6.170>
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In article <31C58959.2278@cdc.com>, James Foster x2912
<James.Foster@cdc.com> wrote:

> > Friends and I have recently bought an old (100 years+) forge which we will
> > be moving to another location so that we can start experimenting with the
> > art of blacksmithing.  (We do realise it'll take a couple of years to get
> > something usefull done out of it.)
> > 
> > While this forge is setup properly, I have found a suplier of Damascus
> > steel--a steel that evolved from Indian Wootz, which the japanese used for
> > their swords.
> > 
> > I'd like to know if anybody out there had been using Damascus steel, and
> > what sorts of hints/techniques/tips/ideas they can suggest so that we can
> > get started.
> 
> Well, you don't say what you're actually going to do with the Damascus,
> but one starting place might be the books by Jim Hrisoulas (The Complete
> Bladesmith, The Master Bladsmith, and The Pattern Welded Blade). I only
> have the first one, but they seem to be a good series on pattern
> welded/Damascus
> steel for the purpose of making knives.                                  
>                                                                        

Swords.  Quite frankly.  Big medieval swords.

-- 
Martin-Gilles Lavoie

[CYRNFR QB ABG ZVK BE BGUREJVFR NYGRE GUR OVGF VA GUVF ZRFFNTR.]


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding with power supplies?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 04:50:28 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
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Frank Evan Perdicaro (frank@newshost.dsea.com) wrote:

: I have the chance to pick up a few very nice DC power supplies.
: These are Lambda 120A 5V supplies for DEC big iron of years ago.

: I should be able to put together a complete unit with iosolation
: transformer, circuit breakers and cooling fans, all in a roll-
: around box, for $0.

: Would this 240A, 5V power supply make a good welder of any sort?
: If so, how?  What voltage is DC welding typically done at, anyway?

The open-circuit voltage of a stick welder is often somewhere between
50 and 70 volts.  The O.C. voltage of a MIG or TIG welder is around
30 volts.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 25 Jun 1996 04:46:56 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Richard W. Klopp (rich_klopp@qm.sri.com) wrote:
: Be careful. You don't want to cut open sodium-filled valves. These have
: hollow stems filled with sodium metal that melts at running temperature.
: The liquid sodium sloshes up and down and helps to transfer heat away from
: the valve head. Sodium burns violently on contact with air. I don't know
: whether they're still used, but I know that Dodge used them in a 271 CI
: flathead 6 that was in my dad's '63 WM-300 Power Wagon pickup. (An Army
: truck derivative--what I'd give to have one of those again! On the other
: hand, what a piece of junk! A real lemon from the day it came home from
: the dealer.) There are probably visual clues to indicate whether you're
: dealing with a sodium-filled valve or not, but I don't know them.

I don't know about visual clues, except that the stem may be larger in
diameter.  Almost all commercial diesel engines have sodium filled valves,
and most turbocharged engines, automotive engine-conversion boat engines,
and aircraft engines have sodium cooled valves.  Some truck engines also
have sodium cooled valves.  Definitely don't want to set one of these on
fire.  Grind into it, it gets hot, dip it in water, and BOOM!  Or use a
welding torch and ignote the sodium in air!  Definitely a bad move.  But,
ordinary car valves from non-supercharged, gasoline engines are not likely
to have sodium.  Otherwise, they are a very hard, heat tolerant steel,
capable of taking a high finish.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gold plating kit?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 04:54:15 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Michael P. Gangemi (tubestuff@qnet.com) wrote:
: Can someone please direct me to the correct news gropup or hardware store?
: I need to gold plate a couple of small parts (aluminum) on my vintage
: guitar, and I would like to do it myself
: unless the process does not lend itself to "at home" proceedures.

Edmund Scientific sells a kit by Hunter Products for gold plating.  It is
expensive!  Hunter also has much cheaper kits for other metals.  To plate
gold onto aluminum, you will probably have to plate the aluminum with some
other metals first, following the 'electrochemical sequence' from Al to
Au.  To plate gold on copper, for example, you plate the copper first with
nickel, then the gold.


From nykwish@msn.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: nykwish@msn.com (T Wish)
Subject: RE: Need brazing pointers
Date: 25 Jun 96 02:38:27 -0700
References: <4qktsq$r45@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
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Before starting you might consider reinforcing the cracked tubing 
with a sleeve that encircles the crack area, or a piece of bar stock 
(maybe even bare carbon steel bolt material).  Practice on some other 
steel parts, perhaps other bare carbon steel bolt material, etc.)

Welding supply stores will sell a couple of brass brazing rods and 
flux.  From there, remove loose scale and dirt from adjoining parts, 
heat end of rod for a few seconds, heat area evenly using a slight 
circular motion until the metal appears cherry red color (of course 
you'll be wearing goggles that will turn everything green),  dip hot 
end in flux, rest the dipped rod on the joint then watch the braze 
alloy flow through the joint. Repeat heating the rod and dipping in 
flux as the rod is consumed into the joint, and continue the process 
until the joint is filled by the brazing material.

I hope this helps.  Books describe this in a few short pages.


From dkulha@wco.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dkulha@wco.com (Donald Kulha)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Followup-To: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Date: 25 Jun 1996 07:48:58 GMT
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Jim Naylor (jnaylor@southwind.net) wrote:
: 
: Let me repeat the question: has anyone used or known anyone who has used
: the China Diesel engines? Are they durable, quiet, cheap to operate, run
: on anything from JP4 to left over pepperoni pizza? Or not?
: 
Hi Jim, Think we've chatted before....

I've heard from several folks (some of which owned one of these) that they
are very poorly made and ultimatly unreliable. They come with a spare
parts kit for a reason...they always need it. A fellow who wrote some
articles for Backwoods Home mag really likes his and the mag also offers
his book about them. He claims it's reliable. My friends, including
Richard at Home Power mag pan them pretty bad. Wouldn't touch one myself.
Richard has a 6.5kw Honda. I understand the biggest problem with the China
diesels are poor metalurgy and very poor machine work/tolerances.

DCK



From bconner@cybercom.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cybercom.net!mfd-dial2-28.cybercom.net!user
From: bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mail-order source for spring steel?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 07:26:25 GMT
Organization: Cyber Access Internet Services (617) 396-0491
Lines: 7
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NNTP-Posting-Host: mfd-dial2-28.cybercom.net
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b4

Does anyone have a good mail order source for small quantities of spring
steel?  I'll want several thicknesses, up to 1/4 inch or so.  (yes, I've
considered using old car springs, but I want other options too!)


Bruce Conner
bconner@cybercom.net


From felice@pioneer.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3-Jaw Chuck in DrillPress
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 05:53:27 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <felice.103.31CF7ED7@pioneer.net>
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Press the sleeve off the chuck with a piece of pipe in an arbor press,
take the jaws out, clean all in solvent, re assemble.


In article <4qn3hv$e7d@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> ruoouoo55@ix.netcom.com (tony) 
writes:>From: ruoouoo55@ix.netcom.com (tony)
>Subject: Re: 3-Jaw Chuck in DrillPress
>Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 00:05:18 GMT

>moore@spk.hp.com (Bill Moore) wrote:


>>I am not getting consistant clamping action when chucking drill
>>bits into the 3-jaw chuck. 


>I would try WD 40
>but I bet you will need a new chuck or a rebuild kit.






From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10" Southbend thrust washers
Date: 25 Jun 1996 12:02:54 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <09960525065548.OUI79.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <4qnin5$pf6@news.ios.com>, From tonylos 
<tonylos@village.ios.com>, the following was written:
> Does anyone know where Southbend gets its flat ball bearing thrust 
> bearings that go on the cross feed screw by the taper attachement?

If you can give me the dimensions, I can see if we can provide them for
you.  We stock one for the Logan Lathes, with a 3/8" ID for $12.00.  I
have heard South Bends prices are rather high.  

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 11:53:56 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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A lathe.




From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
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From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.063729.9645@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net> <4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu> <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com> <31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <31c81c44.996490324@news.islandnet.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 06:37:29 GMT
Lines: 108
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30343 sci.engr.chem:16052

psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:

>>Jens wrote:
>>> 
>>> All this talk about tanks blowing up has me a little worried since I
>>> keep my oxy/acet rig in my garage which is part of my house. SO.....
>>> somebody please explain to me why oxygen causes instantaneous
>>> combustion with oil (after all, we have O2 in the atmosphere but my
>>> grease gun hasn't exploded recently). 


>Ok, I got a number of emails telling me how the flashpoint of
>materials drop in the presence of pure O2. A lot of people also
>pointed out that materials like steel burn with O2 (cutting torch).
>All this is nice and dandy and I am aware of these items. (But thank
>you for pointing them out anyhow)  I certainly would not attempt to
>oil an oxygen tank valve as the risk of doing anything to 2000 PSI of
>substance is best left to those people that know what they are doing. 
>What had me baffled though was the general talk that oxygen in general
>spells trouble no matter what (this isn't quite what I was trying to
>say but the proper words seem to escape me this morning). I was
>starting to get seriously concerned about having oxygen in my garage.
>Anyway, to make a long story short, I did some experiments .....
>Take acetone, highly flammable, and blow pure O2 on it - nothing
>happens. Take that same acetone and put a spark lighter to it - it
>starts to burn. Now blow O2 on it and not surprisingly it burns
>better. As it happens I used an old paint can lid to hold the acetone
>in the test and there was some residual (dry) paint on it. Blowing the
>O2 on the burning acetone and (non burning) paint caused the
>combustion temperature to rise sufficiently to start the paint
>burning. Even with the lid getting very hot, the steel of the lid
>never started to burn or melt or whatever (obviously the steel needs
>to be red hot before it will react with the O2).
>The next experiment involved Kerosene and the same combination of O2,
>sparks etc. I could not start a fire no matter what. Yes, I know that
>Kerosene is used to run jet planes and space heaters etc .... but in
>the combination of a normal shop environment where Kerosene might be
>used in a parts cleaning washer, the accidental introduction of pure
>O2 or a spark doesn't seem to be too catastrophic (mind you I didn't
>try this experiment with the gas in a contained area - I used a flat
>lid with kerosene on it - so that might be another story) 
>So, in my mind, the conclusion is as follows:
>1) Never mess with anything that is under heavy pressure (such as a
>tank of O2) unless you know what you are doing.
>2) Oxygen by itself is not pure evil despite what people say. Yes, it
>will accelerate a fire but pure O2 at atmospheric pressure seems
>pretty harmless by itself unless you combine it with fire.
>3) It never hurts to be extra careful when dealing with flammables.

>my $0.02 worth ... contradicting opinions welcomed.
>Jens

The tank of O2 is probably more dangerous as a projectile than as
a source of oxydizer.  When I was learning SCUBA, (my instructor
was Navy UDT -- tells you how long ago that was --) we had all taken
the time to build our own tanks from perloined USAF fire extinguisher
bottles.  Understand, we could get them cheap, the military would clean
them for us to aircraft O2 specs and then they were hydrostated to 
twice normal fill pressures.  We had a single 72 sitting near the side
of the pool and someone or something knocked it over.  The valve hit
the deck and sheared off.  The tank was airborn for about 15 meters and
then hit the water.  It proceeded the rest of the 25 meter pool, through
the side with about 6" still out of the pool wall.  We quietly moved our
classes to another pool on the base but a water level dropping 3' over-
night was a dead give-away....
So, keep the bottles well chained to the frame and take care not to
drop them when moving them.  After that, normal safety precautions work
well.





































-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!news.cerf.net!farallon.farallon.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.064949.10299@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <4q1mst$lc1@ccshst05.uoguelph.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 06:49:49 GMT
Lines: 29

tsjohnso@uoguelph.ca (Shawn T Johnson) writes:

>Hey there...

>I found this "silver" coloured very very lightweight bowl in the dollar 
>store... bought for a buck beleive it or not :)

>It reminds me very much of aluminum foil, but it's thicker.  I can dent 
>by pressing my finger on it a bit.

>My question is, would this be made of aluminum.  And if so, should it 
>have had an appropriate warning about foodstuffs.  Or was it perhaps 
>some other kinds of metal.  It's not foil by any stretch, because it's 
>the thickness of your basic kitchen stainless steel bowls ... but it's 
>softer and very light.

>I picked it up, because I thought it would be perfect for simple and 
>quick repousse or chasing work.  Has anyone who has done this sort of 
>work with aluminum have any suggestions?

>-T. Shawn...

recent studies indicate that boxite not aluminum is the real culprit
where food contamination is concerned.  Aluminum food and beverage
containers are plasti-coated inside and out eliminating the problem
there.  It may be that this bowl is aluminum with a plastic coating.
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!news.cerf.net!farallon.farallon.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.065725.10601@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <jnaylor-1706961128100001@192.0.2.1> <4q4dcn$5rt@news1.t1.usa.pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 06:57:25 GMT
Lines: 42

tomfool@usa.pipeline.com(Christoffer) writes:

>On Jun 17, 1996 11:28:10 in article <Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question>,
>'jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)' wrote: 
>> 
>>Seriously, I think there is concern in some quarters that aluminum has 
>>some sort of link with Alzheimer's disease. I've never seen anything 
>>suggesting actual evidence of where the link is, but conjecture points 
>>fingers at everything from food containers to underarm deodorant. I've yet

>>to see anyone try to cast suspicion on riding in airplanes, but perhaps 
>>that's because no one's thought of it yet (oops--what have I done?  Please

>>forgive me, Mr. Boeing.). 
>> 
>I believe I understand the sentiment expressed here.  It 
>would be foolish to panic at every suggestion of 
>possible environmental health hazard.  However, asbestos, 
>lead paints and leaded gasoline were once ubiquitous. 
>The dangers they posed were also denied by the 
>producers and concerned consumers were thought of by 
>many to be Chicken Littles.  I, for one, am glad the 
>dangers were exposed and the products banned. 
> 
>Christoffer 

As far as the asbestos danger -- read a very interesting study on the
problem.  It seems that asbestosis is caused by the asbestos fibers
imbedding themselves in the lung walls.  The lungs are unable to clean
these fibers out because they have a sprial almost corkscrew-like twist
to them.  This is especially true for European origin asbestos.  The
mineral found in the USA also called asbestos has long straight fibers.
These fibers can be expectorated from the lung passageways through the
normal mucus membrane action.  If you wish, get some asbestos -- most
of us can find some small source somewhere -- and look at it under
a microscope.  Look for a bluish color and differentiate that from
the white varity.
The real kicker is that the synthetic fibers now being used to replace
asbestos peal off in short, sprial, almost corkscrew-like fibers...
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!news.cerf.net!farallon.farallon.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Silicone Rubber Mold Making
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.071411.11042@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <31C61281.7A4B@gte.net> <4q56bk$bfm@acme.sb.west.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 07:14:11 GMT
Lines: 38

steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:


>	--Go to a jewelry supply house and get some stuff called "grey 
>tuffy"; they usually want you to bring your own containters, too. There 
>is a white goo and a transparent goo that have to be mixed in some ration 
>or other, not too hard to figure out, and it cures in 12 hours or so. The 
>trick to getting good quality moulds out of this stuff is to put it in a 
>bell jar and draw a good vacuum on the stuff, after you have mixed it, 
>before you pour it onto the form to be copied; this removes many bubbles 
>and reduces the possibility of a void forming at the boundary between goo 
>and part.
>-- 
>	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	When fortune proves elusive, 	
>	COMING SOON		:	Concentrate on fame...
>	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
>		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>	

(Uh, hi, Ed.  How's the new firebox comming?)
In my youthful existance, I sold jewelry supplies for Bourget Bros.
In Santa Monica, CA.  At that time there was a silicon RTV system 
available.  It came in two quart cans with a molding frame and
all.  It was designed for making wax injection molds for jewelry,
of course.  The nice part about it was it was a clear RTV stuff so
you could see if you had any bubbles in the mold before it cured.
Curing time was in the 4 to 8 hour range as I recall and we could
get the bubbles out on a vibrating table.

The bell jar and vacuum is a good method to debubblize most things
however, you usually end up with a lot of goop on the inside of the
bell jar and they ain't cheap.  We used to use old (and I mean old)
reefer compressors to pull the vacuum -- if you come across an old
('50s) fridge that is being disposed of, pull the compressor -- it's
worth the time.
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!news.cerf.net!farallon.farallon.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Used Sherline mill wanted, VA
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.072527.11346@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <babcock.7.0004030D@infi.net> <4qc9o7$ovo@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 07:25:27 GMT
Lines: 19

brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:

>Tom (babcock@infi.net) wrote:
>: I'm looking for a used Sherline milling machine.  I'm in the Tidewater area of 
>I'd wish you good luck.  I seldom see Sherline equipment offered for sale 
>in this group, at least partially because it's so useful, that a bigger
>mill does *not* obsolete the Sherline.

>You can get the basic mill for about $500 and all the tooling you'll need
>(including the small rotary table) for about another $500.  Try Morton
>Machinery's web pages for the best discount.

>Pete Brooks

Uh, I think Blueridge tools sells the Sherline line and they'd be kinda
local to Tidewater VA ...
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Darking welding helmets
Date: 25 Jun 1996 14:05:11 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4qormn$8qj@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <blake-2106960011200001@206.84.2.69> <31cb0c99.61137216@santaclara01.news.internex.net> <blake-2406962153460001@206.84.2.119>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

I have an L-Tek (or is that L-Tec?) helmet. It's adjustable for 11-13 for 
arc welding and 5-7 for gas.  It's powered by a solar cell so there are no
batteries to replace.  The only complaint I have is the internal
LCD display that specifies the selected shade has pretty poor
contrast and is difficult to read.  I have to double check to make sure
I pressed the right button, but	I've never misread it yet.

At the time I bought it, it was a little cheaper than the Hornell and
my local welding supplier was pushing it.  I've been very happy with
it and wouldn't be without it.

--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From jhrisoulas@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 25 Jun 1996 09:29:06 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4qopj2$8jc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4qn63m$55l@lori.albany.net>
Reply-To: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I wouldn't put any hope in the Society for Creative Anachronism as a
source for blacksmithing info...From what I have seen coming out of their
so called "Master Smiths", well I personally wouldn't want to let most of
it out of the studio...Be that as it may.......

You would be much better off contacting A.B.A.N.A. and seeing about
getting in touch with one of the local A.B.A.N.A. chapters in your area...
 Most of the A.B.A.N.A. people are more than generous with infor....

If I can be of any help, by all means feel free to contact me directly....


JP Hrisoulas


From r.lee@windshadow.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.serv.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp30.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 09:48:00 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <r.lee-2506960948000001@ppp30.nantucket.net>
References: <raybre-2406961803160001@slgos1p23.ozemail.com.au>

In article <raybre-2406961803160001@slgos1p23.ozemail.com.au>,
raybre@ozemail.com.au (Ray Breakwell) wrote:

   
> Found a bucket of car engine exhaust and intake valves at the scrap yard.
> Too good to waste, eh? Great steel!
> 
> What IS this steel that valves are made ?
> 
> How does it handle forging/annealing/re-hardening/re-tempering/ machining?
> 
> As I said above, too good to waste.  So what have some of you used engine
> valves for?
> 
> ANY comments on the above will be welcomed....either in this group or by
email.


You might want to be a touch careful.... I know that the exhaust valves in
the race engines by dad used in the late 50s early 60s were filled with
Na... thats right pure sodium metal... this was for improved heat transfer
I think... but I don't like to think about cutting into one with a hot
lathe bit... perhaps Mr. Harvey or someone else with more recient
knowledge can let us know if the use of  Na in valves ever became common
and how to tell from outside marks if a valve is of that type....

I have used large valves from big deisels as bases for things like home
made scribers... and a lathe tool hight gauge...

~R


From hbedu014@csun.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!csun.edu!hbedu014
From: hbedu014@csun.edu (lynn vavra)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Leather artisans -- Where to find them?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 04:52:25 GMT
Organization: California State University, Northridge
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4qnra9$49h@dewey.csun.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: huey.csun.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


I'm looking for people who work in leather.  Where would I find them?

Thanks

George (email please)


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 07:56:02 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <31CFFE02.15AA@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4qf36s$6ih@ftp.iis.com.br> <4qf9vv$og4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <felice.98.31CB802A@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az8-05.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Jun 25  9:55:03 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)

Felice Luftschein wrote:
> 
> In article <4qf9vv$og4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> writt@aol.com (WRitt) writes:
> >From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
> >Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
> >Date: 21 Jun 1996 19:07:43 -0400
> 
> >In article <4qf36s$6ih@ftp.iis.com.br>, ehaddadf@iis.com.br writes:
> 
> >>I haven't got an answer to this, even from files' manufacturers:
> >>
> >>Why is it that they always sell files without the handles?
> >>

Like file handles or not - Use them or not...  

Guess they are like motorcycle helmets.  Some love em, some hate em...

If you hate em - thanks for reading so far...

If you like em - read "Metalworking One", page 206, (Village Press)
by Bill Patrick.

Mr. Patrick goes into measuring your hand to make a customfit handle.
Sort of like Herrett pistol grips when I was seriously shooting.

If nothing else they are beautiful to look at!!!

Paul in AJ AZ


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 13:53:14 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4qor0a$s9n@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <31CDF588.41C6@sgi.com> <4qok0k$j8q@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.aviation.homebuilt:34738 rec.crafts.metalworking:30353

Opps - back up.  I notice you're planning to start off with stock
of the required thickness.  I would (probably) use a lathe, and
part off the pieces from round bar of the proper diameter or,
depending on how good the finish needed to be, alternate between
drilling a center hole on the lathe and then sawing off a bunch
on the horizontal bandsaw until I ran out of hole.

If you start with sheet stock with the idea of cutting them with
a hole saw, assuming you can get a hole saw of the proper size
with a center pilot drill of the proper size...that ought to
work pretty well too.  You'll want stock narrow enough so you can
clamp it down on the drill press table.  

A lot depends on how accurate to size they need to be and how
good a finish you want.




From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ta Ying Engine Lathe - Information Please
Date: 25 Jun 1996 15:03:13 GMT
Organization: TI
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4qov3h$mvr@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
Reply-To: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: cna0128981.dseg.ti.com
X-Newsreader: News Version 5.0 from Hummingbird Communications Ltd.

I have been looking for some time to purchase a lathe and milling machine.  Someone
at work now has for sale a Ta Ying TY23 (I think this means 23") with 3- and 4-jaw 
chucks for $800.

Has anyone ever heard of this lathe, and what sort of reputation does it have?  All hints
appreciated.  I'm going to look at it tomorrow night.

Best Regards,

Marty Jones


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shooting Star Digital Readouts
Date: 25 Jun 1996 15:13:37 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4qovn1$1erk@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.168.254.52
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

I talked to to owner of Shooting Star cbx digital positon readout, this 
morning and he said that he only has a few more parts to make up and then 
he should have about 100 units ready to ship. He said that he expects to 
have them ready to ship in about two weeks.  He also stated that he would 
honor the lower intoduction price through out the summer.  He seems like 
a very nice gentleman and like any new business, startup is taking a bit 
longer than he thought.  
  For those who could not get to the NAMES in Michigan Shooting Star had 
a nice Digital 2 axis readout for a reasonable price $599.00 US.  He also 
said that he would try to get on this newsgroup and perhaps make his own 
web site particulary to show the different ways of mounting his readouts. 
 I hope we see him here.  
 
Just for further info  Shooting Star Technology  (604) 794-3364   

My only interest is that it looked like a good product
-
  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com




From mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David Munday)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 25 Jun 96 14:12:59 -0500
Organization: Miami University
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <1996Jun25.141259@miavx1>
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In article <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net>, bills@ttgwest.com (Bill Strahan) writes:
> Lee McGee <lmcgee@sgi.com> wrote:
>>--
>>I need to make a bunch of round washer-shaped parts (one inch,
>>7/8 inch diameter) out of .090 and .063 4130N.  These have holes
>>in the center, either 3/16 or 1/4".  They'll be used as weld-in
>>reinforcements where bolts go through control sticks, etc...
> 
> Something I used to do when making wooden washers for airgun silencers
> (don't ask) was to mark the pattern on the material and center the
> hole then drill the hole and cut the washer roughly to shape.  Once I
> had several cut out, I'd put them all onto a bolt the same size as the
> hole and tighten a nut onto them.   Then I would put this in a drill
> and spin them against sandpaper.  I'm sure you could do the same
> against the side of a grinder.  This way they are all the exact same
> size and are perfectly round.
> 
That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the elongated gear 
attach fittings on the chapter champ.

The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.

-- 
Dave Munday  -  mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu  -  munday@nku.edu
Web Page:  http://ourworld.compuserve.com:80/homepages/munday
PP-ASEL  -  Tandem Flybaby Builder  -  EAA-284 (Waynesville, OH)
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who do not.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10" Southbend thrust washers
Date: 25 Jun 1996 18:16:37 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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tonylos (tonylos@village.ios.com) wrote:
: Does anyone know where Southbend gets its flat ball bearing thrust 
: bearings that go on the cross feed screw by the taper attachement?
: These washer-like thrust bearings are about the size of a nickel coin,
: the cage is made of brass, and the ball bearings are staked in place.

Winifred M. Berg has a good selection of sizes of these type bearings.
Their prices are a bit better, but you won't get them for $5.00, believe
me!




From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 17:51:10 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
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:  If you learn>to hold a  file properly a handle is a not needed. I have used 
: them on>spinning workpieces in a lathe countless times with no scars. The
: >"oldtimer" that I was fortunate enough to work with as an apprentice
: >taught me to use a file and said "file handles are for amateurs". I mean
: >no insult to anyone who uses a file handle. I don't use them and  I  don't
: >know any machinists in this area who do.>Bill Rittner

     I don't know any toolmakers who don't use file handles.  To me 
not using a file handle is like not using safty glasses.  You might 
not ever need them but if you do you are glad you had them on.  The 
only exception that I could think of would be doing bench work with 
jewelery files, you have better control with those small files without
handles.  
     For cleaning a file I always use a file card.  If that doesn't 
work I use a piece of brass to clean the chips out of the file.  It 
seems that aluminum chips are the ones that stick the most.

--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Calamari
Date: 25 Jun 1996 09:53:48 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4qp5is$bd6@acme.sb.west.net>
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Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmiths.com) wrote:
: I have some photos of the Caerphilly castle replica siege engines -
: must put them on the Web some time (Keep an eye on
: http://www.codesmiths.com/siege.htm )
	--This i gotta see! My "mini" will foing half of a large 
milk-bone about 20 to 25 paces, enough to make the dog work for it ;-)
: >pieces of polyethylene tubing, 
: Where do these fit into the Trebuchet scheme of things ?
	--Low-tech shaft collars: you slide them onto PVC pipe, using a 
little vaseline to lubricate. Once in place, they sort of settle down and 
keep PVC "axles" froim falling out...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Learning to say NO is harder 	
	COMING SOON		:	than learning to say YES...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Followup-To: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 25 Jun 1996 09:58:05 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--Getcher self a Whitney punch, or something similar. The 
distinguishing characteristic of these is that the punches have a little 
pip in the center. Punch the o.d. first, then go back, center in the 
depression made by the pip in the first operation and punch the i.d. 
Clean up the burrs on a belt sander (fun if they get away!) or a bit of 
sandpaper.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Learning to say NO is harder 	
	COMING SOON		:	than learning to say YES...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!inet-nntp-gw-1.us.oracle.com!nntp-hub.barrnet.net!iserver.spacebbs.com!spacebbs!raymond.frye
Distribution: world
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Welding Aluminum with Sti
From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (Raymond Frye)
Message-ID: <6.22078.1453@spacebbs.com>
References: <4qmdf8$kms@matterhorn.pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 10:58:00 -0800
Organization: Space BBS - 15 node PCBoard - FTP/TELNET/GOPHER - (415-323-4193)
Lines: 47

References: <4qmdf8$kms@matterhorn.pinn.net> 
James Cain writes:
JC> At my local home warehouse store I spottted something I'd never seen
JC> before...welding rods for Al made for an arc welder!!
(snip)
JC> Does anyone know if these Aluminum welding sticks work??  And if so,
JC> how well?
(snip)

----------------------------
Cons:

The fumes are as bad as they come. This is an outside with a fan and a
ventilated hood operation.

>From  my experiences the weld edges are rough and the joint weaker than
parent metal. 

High shrinkage.

The edges weld in porous material tend to foam a bit (tig does also).

The weld machines poorly (soft aluminum).

Plus side:

Cast aluminum can be repaired.

Heavy parts can be welded.

That cracked gearcase can be patched in place without disassembly.


Example:
 My last emergency repair was the front housing of a Ford automatic.
 The crack went into the pump and would spray fluid while driving.
 The area was cleaned with solvent a stainless brush and welded.
 The transmission and surrounding components were still on the car.
   (there was barely clearance to reach with the rod)

Comments:
   I consider this a patch not a fix.
   Four rods are as many as you might use in a few years time.

Ray

 * RM 1.3 02229 * a somnambulist in the information trafic jam


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how do you clean components for oxygen service?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 18:29:36 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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JIMMY ARAKAKI:INDUSTRIAL DESIGN/VISUALIZATION SM2-SFO (james_a@verifone.com) wrote:
: can anyone tell me how to clean hoses, fittings, valves etc for gaseous oxygen
: service?

: I realize that this is potentially dangerous. Folks at welding supply shops
: will not talk about it for fear of lawyers.

: my specific application requires handling oxygen at about 125 PSI.

I am no expert on this, but I am pretty sure the process is done using
a solvent such as acetone.  You wash 3 times in acetone, blowing dry with
filtered air each time.  The 2nd and 3rd wash are with a fresh batch of
acetone, of high purity grade.  The blowing dry is to blow off the last
drops of solvent, so that any dissolved oils don't remain as the solvent
evaporates.  If the material is compatible with oxygen service, ie
stainless steel, then a tiny bit of remaining oil will not cause a massive
explosion, but may ruin the part.  If a tiny bit of oil is on a material
not compatible with oxygen service (ie a metal that can burn more easily)
then you may set a line or regulator on fire, which can be pretty
spectacular.  That is why the double precaution of material and
cleanliness is taken.  Note that some O rings may be porous enough to
absorb oils deeply, so that the quick cleaning bath will not remove the
oils.  These rings may be of a material type approved for oxygen, but if
they are contaminated by oil once, they can never be used with oxygen.
Many oxygen systems now use a lot of teflon seals, which are supposed to
avoid this problem.



From onm010@uni-essen.de Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!fu-berlin.de!zrz.TU-Berlin.DE!zib-berlin.de!uni-duisburg.de!sun3.hrz.uni-essen.de!mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de!user
From: onm010@uni-essen.de (Dr. Stefan P. Mueller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 21:13:51 +0200
Organization: Nuklearmedizin Uniklinik Essen
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NNTP-Posting-Host: mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de

In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
writes:
|>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
|>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range...

This thread got me interested and I found the folowing URL on the web:

   http://www.worldway.com/mall/savoy.html

It looks like SAVOY SCIENTIFIC,  P.O. Box 1398, Dept. I,  SANTA MONICA, CA
90406 is selling plans for a jet engine for 15$

Stefan

-- 
Dr. Stefan P. Mueller, Nuklearmedizin, Universitaetsklinikum, Essen,
 e-mail: onm010@uni-essen.de, phone: <49> 201/ 723-4179, FAX: -5964


From gwhite@tiac.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Turning Tungsten
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 18:52:51 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
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In article <4qmqae$akp@news.cis.okstate.edu>,
   gcouger@tacoma.ceatlabs.okstate.edu (COUGER GORDON) wrote:
<In article <alberic.835642483@access1>,
<Brian Meek <alberic@access1.digex.net> wrote:
<>Greetings all:
<>
<>I'm looking for info on turning tungsten.  Not Carbide, but just 
straight
<>tungsten.  I presume Carbide will cut it?  (if not, then how about 
TiNi,
<>or CBN?)
<>I have access to several lathes, all in pretty good shape.
<>The idea here is that every so often, I make something just for myself, 
to
<>keep from going crazy from the production stuff.
<>I have *large* hands, and I like to play darts.  I have trouble finding
<>darts that are (A) heavy enough for me, and (B) of large enough OD for 
me.
<>Thus the idea was born to turn myself a set of solid tungsten dart 
bodies.
<>
<>I'm relatively sure I can turn it, but drilling/tapping for the tips 
and
<>feather guides has me worried.  Can HSS drills/taps cut it, even on a 
one
<>or two shot basis?  (Can nitrided HSS do so?)
<>
<We get some tungstun that is for machining. The machinest says it works 
fair
<if you don't get it hot and work harden it. Normal tools and high speed 
<steel bit work fine. He compaired it to stainless steel in working 
qualities.
<Not nice but doable.
<
One source for this type of Tungsten is the Kulite Corp. (NJ?).  They 
alloy a small amount of copper into the Tungsten to make is 'easy' to 
machine.  The stuff does work harden quickly.  When you are drilling, 
just muster your courage, and DRILL.  If you hesitate just a little, you 
are in trouble.  I've never tried tapping it, but I would think that a 
spiral point tap run on a tapping head would work OK.

Doug White


From cas@digital.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@digital.net (Carroll Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum leak location
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 18:39:37 GMT
Organization: FLORIDA ONLINE, Florida's Premier Internet Provider
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On 19 Jun 1996 08:02:26 GMT, <76257.3632@compuserve.com> wrote:

>
>     The safe way to do this is to pressurize the vessel with a gas that will be
>detected by a FREON detector (any auto shop will have one).  FREON is not the 
>only gas these detect.  There are others, less politically incorrect -- basically anything
>halogen-based, I suspect, but I've never had to use a substitute (I'm usually chasing
>an actual Coolant leak.  I suspect the non-harmful substitutes would detect 
>just as easily, and related relatively-harmless gases like the ones used in
>boat-horn disposable canisters (any marine store will know what I mean).
>
Another way is to pull a vacuum (low as possible), valve it off with a
gauge showing the internal pressure, and trickle acetone around
suspected leak points. A sharp drop in vacuum reveals that liquid
acetone has seeped int o the vessel and evaporated. Not terribly
sensitive but works for many leaks.


From cas@digital.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@digital.net (Carroll Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question re lost wax materials
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 18:39:39 GMT
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On Thu, 20 Jun 1996 15:47:22 GMT, cabago@netcom.com (Nick Irias)
wrote:

>I am going to try lost wax casting of aluminum and have a few
>questions for which I have not found answers in FAQs or casting books.
>
>
>1)  From what I have read, ceramic is breathable and does not require
>air entrainment or special venting.  But for plaster molds, the wax
>pattern ideally includes a vent riser, or the plaster (of Paris) is
>mixed with an air entrainment add-mixture to provide a degree of
>porosity.  Can anyone recommend  specific ceramic and plaster mixes
>and a supplier?
>
>2) I have not found a spec for the wax that is used.   Is it just
>candle wax or is there a special grade of wax?
>
>3) The wax is supposed to be removed from the mold by heating the mold
>in a kiln at 1000 to 1200 degrees F for a couple hours.  I dont have a
>kiln, but the self clean cycle on my electric oven (the one in the
>kitchen) is supposed to run at 900 degrees.  Can the wax be vaporized
>in a regular oven and if so, does it mess up the oven or smoke up the
>house?
>

This is too complex to do online. Try finding a local jeweler's supply
house and ask for an instruction book on lost wax casting. Principles
are the same for machine parts. A home oven is unsuitable for this
purpose IMHO.

carroll smith


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Picking a MIG Welder, and Aluminum
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 16:51:58 GMT
Organization: InterNex Information Services 1-800-595-3333
Lines: 26
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On Mon, 24 Jun 1996 18:52:34 -0400, Kevin Maggard <kmag@lex.infi.net>
wrote:

>The Miller Econotig sells for about $1300.  It comes with everything except the welding hood and the gas 
>bottles (you will need some filler rod and electrodes also).  Gas regulator, torch, foot current control and 
>some collets and nozzles.  Works pretty good on 1/16".  It does not have a lot of bells and whistles that come 
>in handy for Al but works quite well.  The next step up in capabilities is about 3 times as much.
>
Econotig not often recommended for Alum. In fact someone who had one
for sale dis-recommended it when I told him I might like to do up to
1/4" plate, so the doable limit is somewhere around the 1/16" you
mentioned.

Also, about the price, not 3X up if you consider the next step up
might be a Hypertherm PowerMax 800, which I just bought for a wee bit
over $2K (I think it was $2130 after the haggling settled). It's way
above the Econotig in capacity and has good reputation for clean
cutting, due I suppose to the latest generation of torch design. BTW,
the Miller Econotig uses a torch made by Hypertherm for Miller. Is
that a clue?

Nicemost thing about the Econotig besides its price is that is really
will run off 110v. Amazing, huh? Several others on this group have one
and like them. Question really revolves around capacity.

Garfield


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Shaper Questions
Date: 25 Jun 1996 20:56:14 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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: Can anyone give me anymore information on this machine?  Date of 
: manufacture, etc.  I would also like to find a resource for a manual 
: and/or a copy of the manual.  I will be glad to pay for the copying 
: costs, mailing costs, etc.


George, I don't know the manufacture date, but my Atlas 7" appears to
be made in the WW2 era, at least according to the manual, such as it
is.

Like someone said about another Atlas tool, the manual is rather abbreviated;
perhaps 16 pages, and that includes the parts breakout.  I also got the
indexing jig (with 2 page manual) and the rotary table.  I also have a
1950s vintage parts listing for *everything* that Atlas made.

Perhaps the main benefit for a manual would be to see the myriad of oiling
points.  One gets the idea that Atlas didn't do a lot of business with
ball/roller bearing suppliers.....  BTW, I generated a little Word document
that will get posted by my shaper (Real Soon Now) to help remind me on
the oiling.  If there's any interest, I'll post it and/or send it to
the FAQ.  (Jim, is there any call for this?)  No pictures; no scanner.

If you can't find a manual locally, send me email and I can get a
copy of the manual to you.

Pete Brooks



From 73607.1430@compuserve.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: washers
Date: 25 Jun 1996 23:16:15 GMT
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 how many of these do you need ?  the best way is on a metal lathe.


From rnichols@interaccess.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tolerances for brass extrusions?
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 18:30:53 GMT
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Would anyone out there happen to know typical production tolerances for
brass extrusions?  This would be for an extrusion with a cross section
measuring 1.5" x 0.5" overall, minimum material thickness of .085",
maximum thickness mostly below .100" but approaching .200" in one area.
There are no isolated voids.

(No, I am not planning on producing extrusions in my basement.  I just
want to know if I'm in the right ballpark before contacting
manufacturers.)

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com (Kurt Schaefer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 22:33:04 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
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References: <felice.98.31CB802A@pioneer.net> <4qhui9$qef@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <ddiamond.263.000B5C64@TRL.OZ.AU> <4qp8ue$ana@crcnis3.unl.edu>
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Just as a side note.  I had a number of files without handles
sitting around in my shop, so one afternoon I decided to make 
handles for them from segments cut from a scrap piece of 3/4" 
dowel.  It was cheap, easy, and you don't even need a lath.  
(they're not THE most lovely handles, but they work well.)

   -Kurt 


From stover@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stover@ix.netcom.com(Mark Stover )
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing,alt.fishing,alt.business,rec.crafts.jewelry,pdaxs.ads.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Conquest Industries (equipment and training for craft manufacturing)
Date: 25 Jun 1996 23:12:36 GMT
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Point your Web browser at http://www.vpm.com/conquest/ to look at the
Conquest Industries Homepage.  We will help you manufacture all sorts
of fishing lures, jewelry, crafts, and many other kinds of metal or
plastic items.


From jnaylor@southwind.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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[snip]
> I understand the biggest problem with the China
> diesels are poor metalurgy and very poor machine work/tolerances.
> 
Thanks for the good response Donald. It's just what I was looking for.
Methinks I'll shift my attention to the Intelligen system that Steve
Wellcome recommended.

-- 
Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
Wichita KS


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:16:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How much do I lube these babies?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 22:31:55 GMT
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Now that I roped you, any rule of thumb on how much gear oil to add to a
case of gears in the absence of any other info? My guess is to get the
lower gears wet and let the top ones get splashed.  I have a 90deg
(helical gear) drive unit from the 50's that I have just rebuilt with no
manual etc. Comments, theories etc welcome;

Hopefully they have something to do with gear oil 8^)
Daryl


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:16:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 00:45:41 GMT
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The moving finger of kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) having written:

>Let's get our chemistry correct here.  

A good idea !

>Sodium will not burn in air.  

You _sure_ about this ?   If it doesn't, then it does a pretty good
approximation of it !  Admittedly it doesn't spontaneously ignite in
air, but if you get it hot (spark from a grinding wheel will do it)
then it _will_ burn in air.

>Sodium reacts with water to form sodium hydroxide (lye) and hydrogen.  

Yes, it's a good idea not to get sodium anywhere near water.

>If you cut them open, do it under oil (slush pump on the lathe, maybe) 

Aargh !!   What's in your suds tank ?  A water-based emulsion by any
chance ?  Dump sodium into that and your lathe is going to be a warm
sticky mess on the floor.

>(not likely these days, IMHO).  

Sodium valves disappeared in the '60s as stellite facings became more
long-lived, but they returned in the '80s with turbocharged &
supercharged engines. A number of Lancia Deltas and various high
performance Japanese cars use them.


I can't see any convenient way of re-using sodium valves. If I wanted
sodium I'd buy it.  In extremis, I'd use a guillotine in an oil bath
to cut them in half, then melt out the sodium under oil.



From clhuprich@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 21:27:48 -0400
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   File handles come in a variety of sizes as do files and are sold
as a seperate item -- a file handle should outlast many files -- get the
size that best fit's your hand. Using a file handle can save a lot of
hand fatigue in many cases and the handle may be removed for file
storage if needed.

Cliff Huprich
CAE/CAD/CAM Systems & Applications Engineer/Programmer


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 16:58:03 -0700
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To: michael jensen <mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu>

michael jensen wrote:
> 
> :  If you learn>to hold a  file properly a handle is a not needed.

>      For cleaning a file I always use a file card.  If that doesn't
> work I use a piece of brass to clean the chips out of the file.  It
> seems that aluminum chips are the ones that stick the most.
> 
> --
> Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU)
> Chemistry Instrument Shop
> University of Nebraska - Lincoln
> (402) 472-3542

I read somewhere  that copper pipe made a good file cleaner (the secret 
of originality is to forget where you read it).  Tried it recently
using  junk 3/4" Cu about 3" long, flattened on one end.  Of course one
could put a handle on it :).  Pushing with the cut of the file got out
some really stuck stuff.  I was real happy.

Paul in AJ AZ


From clhuprich@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clhuprich@aol.com (Clhuprich)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Calamari
Date: 25 Jun 1996 21:19:21 -0400
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   Either fill with water & freeze or insert 1" dowl or rod. Then use a
tubing cutter such as is used for steel tubing. This should produce a
square burr-free cut.

Cliff Huprich
CAE/CAD/CAM Systems & Applications Engineer/Programmer


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.rec.camping:4131 misc.forsale.non-computer:37758 rec.crafts.metalworking:30379 rec.outdoors.rv-travel:13003 sci.energy:51570

Jim Naylor wrote:
> 
> [snip]
> > I understand the biggest problem with
>
> system that Steve Wellcome recommended.
> 

You probably won't go far wrong listening to him..

Paul in AJ AZ


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:46 EDT 1996
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 20:11:21 -0700
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Jim Naylor wrote:
> 
> [snip]
> > I understand the biggest problem with the China
> > diesels are poor metalurgy and very poor machine work/tolerances.
> >
> Thanks for the good response Donald. It's just what I was looking for.
> Methinks I'll shift my attention to the Intelligen system that Steve
> Wellcome recommended.
> 
> --
> Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
> Wichita KS

You probably won't go wrong listening to him..

Paul in AJ AZ


From erich10983@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: erich10983@aol.com (ERich10983)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: 25 Jun 1996 22:08:56 -0400
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For a quick and easy file "handle", I use electrical twist-on wire
connectors.  The sizes are color coded, with the largest easily available
being blue.  For small files, I use orange or yellow.  Red and blue being
the next larger sizes.  And yes, I have had the experience of seeing a
file protruding from my hand (once).
Earle


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: taper attachment
Date: 26 Jun 1996 03:01:39 GMT
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A friend told me today that he saw a new, American made taper attachment for sale at Boeing 
Surplus for $75, not a bad buy if you need one and are in the area. Cheers Bob



From cjfred@netnet.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cjfred@netnet.net (C.J. Frederick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding Aluminum with Stick Welder??
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 03:15:34 GMT
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In article <4qmdf8$kms@matterhorn.pinn.net>,
   cain@pinn.net (James Cain) wrote:
>Path: 
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nk.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.net66.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news
sprintlink.net!matterhorn.pinn.net!everest!cain
>From: cain@pinn.net (James Cain)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Welding Aluminum with Stick Welder??
>Date: 24 Jun 1996 15:50:00 GMT
>Organization: Pinnacle Online - Internet access for Hampton Roads, 
Virginia - 490-4509
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>Status: N
>
>At my local home warehouse store I spottted something I'd never seen
>before...welding rods for Al made for an arc welder!!
>
>It was a sealed package of what felt like 4 rods (roughly a buck each).
>The package warned to practice first to get used to the way they work
>and to preheat first to around 500F.
>
>I've always considered converting my buzz box to MIG but could never
>justify it with access to a MIG welder within 5 miles.
>
>Does anyone know if these Aluminum welding sticks work??  And if so,
>how well?

I have experimented with them many years ago and they work OK, butI would 
not use them for critical or big welding jobs.  The toughest part is not 
being able to see what your doing.  The flux must blanket the weld 
completely to eliminate oxidation of the molten pool.  The travel speed 
must be experimented with because you can't see the actual bead through 
the flux.  Remember aluminum does not go through a color change when it 
turns molten.  Also it takes practice as the rods melt very fast.  Remember 
aluminum melts at half the temperature that steel does and conducts 
electricity much better than steel.  with practice the beads were sized 
correctly but very rough on the surface.

c. J. Frederick AWS CWI/CWE





From ulfbe@ikp.liu.se Sun Jul  7 15:16:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ulf Bengtsson <ulfbe@ikp.liu.se>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 06:03:26 +0000
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I am currently working on a Universal Pillar Tool - the famous design by mr. G.H. 
Thomas. The more I see from his designs the more impressed I get.

Does anybody on the net have any information on mr Thomas? 
Who was he? 
What was his background?

Ulf B


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 26 Jun 1996 05:38:53 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:
: Let's get our chemistry correct here.  Sodium will not burn in air.  
: Sodium reacts with water to form sodium hydroxide (lye) and hydrogen.  It 
: is the hydrogen that burns....If you cut them open, do it under oil 
: (slush pump on the lathe, maybe) and you will see any sodium, if there 
: (not likely these days, IMHO).  On the other hand, if it is not very 
: humid where you are, you don't need the oil.  If you find sodium valves 
: and still want them, or the sodium for some reason, put the valves in hot 
: oil (look up the melting point in a handbook) and let it melt out.  The 
: sodium will collect up in a ball at the bottom of your oil and when cool, 
: just keep it under oil.

Yes, let's!  Sodium WILL most definitely burn in air.  It will not self-
ignite in air, but if started with a torch, hot cutting tool, etc., it
will sustain a mean fire in plain air!  This is one of the metals which
can cause the dreaded 'heavy metal fire'.  It does take a bit of heat,
however to start it, but cutting tools can make very fine dust of a metal
on occasion, and that dust can ignite very easily.  The melting point of
Sodium is 97 degrees C.

As for what goes on when sodium burns in combination with water, the
reaction is extremely exothermic.  The burning hydrogen (in air) is
a minor byproduct of the reaction.  In fact, I think you will smell
ammonia, if you are fool enough to try this.  I had a friend who
experimented with magnesium.  While burning powdered magnesium, he had
a small (2 cm) ball of glowing powdered Mg, with unburned Mg on the inside
protected by the ash on the outside.  he then poured a glass of water on
it.  It was spectacular!  There was a large blue-white flash, a huge
puff of smoke, white-hot streamers shot all over the room, and the smell
of ammonia was unmistakable.  the hot, free Hydrogen wanted to combine
with anything available, and after the Oxygen in the immediate area was
consumed, it grabbed the Nitrogen in the air to make ammonia.

This is similar to the Sodium reaction, except that the sodium will start
the reaction without any heat being applied, and the flash will be
orange-tinted instead of blue-white.  

As for cutting valves open with a tool with flood coolant, most coolants
contain WATER!!!!  If you try this, definitely make sure there is NO water
in your coolant!  And also make sure it is a coolant that is rated to be
used on magnesium - many aren't, and I think that applies to sodium, too.
They don't even mention it, because few people machine sodium - thank God!


From vrzalfla@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!esiee.fr!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: vrzalfla@aol.com (Vrzal fla)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding with power supplies?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 01:52:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4qmhdd$3sc@server.eng.dsea.com>, frank@newshost.dsea.com
(Frank Evan Perdicaro) writes:

>I have the chance to pick up a few very nice DC power supplies.
>These are Lambda 120A 5V supplies for DEC big iron of years ago.
>
>I should be able to put together a complete unit with iosolation
>transformer, circuit breakers and cooling fans, all in a roll-
>around box, for $0.
>
>Would this 240A, 5V power supply make a good welder of any sort?
>If so, how?  What voltage is DC welding typically done at, anyway?

The main problem would be getting the two supplies to track current and
voltage to support the same load. With a couple of amps thats not a big
problem. When your talking 200 amps the problem changes to voltage drop
over the cables from the supplies to the work, and cable heating. When I
worked as a test floor technician we ran supplies like that with 2/0
welding cables and still had to kick the voltage up to 6-7 volts at the
supply to get 4.80v at the load. The cables got real warm and every once
in the while one supply would short out and take the other with it.
Lambda's also don't like open circuits. You'll need to keep a load of at
least 20% to keep the regulator from toasting itself.
     IMHO if your getting the supplies for free, try the setup using one
supply. If it works be happy and keep the other around as a spare. Another
idea might be to use it as supply for EDM (Electic discharge machining).
Several articles (HSM) have described the process and construction of the
unit. A 120 amp would make one big spark.

Jim Vrzal


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 26 Jun 1996 05:42:20 GMT
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Blake Malkamaki (blake@ncweb.com) wrote:
: Old valves make great tent stakes.  People won't trip over them!  Don't
: hammer on sodium filled valves!!  I doubt if any moder automotive valves
: would have sodium.  Industrial or big truck diesel valves might, but only
: in the exhaust valves.  If they are just run-of-mill car valves, I would
: not worry.  Just use them.

Right, only exhaust valves would have sodium in it.  but turebocharged
cars almost ALL have sodium cooled valves.  With a turbo, the exhaust
temperatures get really high.

If you can build a turbocharged diesel and make it run more than an hour
on the highway powering a truck without sodium in the valves, there are
plenty of people who would like to talk to you about it.


From lewy1@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 06:30:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4qqle5$7ub@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.aviation.homebuilt:34813 rec.crafts.metalworking:30388

In <4qok0k$j8q@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome
<wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes: 
>
>A lathe.
>
>
If just for reinforcement, why not AN-970 fender washers (4130)? Just
use your belt sander to remove the plating where the weld will go.

Of course I'm lazy.

Jim


From tsh@walrus.megabaud.fi Sun Jul  7 15:16:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tsh@walrus.megabaud.fi (Timo Hyvonen)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.manufacturing,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Replacing the paper tape readers
Date: 26 Jun 1996 09:34:45 +0300
Organization: Megabaud Oy,Helsinki,Finland
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Summary: A Perfect Solution to modernisize old machine tools
Keywords: paper tape & parallel communication
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.manufacturing:12730 rec.crafts.metalworking:30389

Hello there,

we have developed a new device to connect old machine tools to a PC DNC
system. Although it's cold&dark up here in Finland I think that we have
made a very good solution for this purpose.

We call this product the DNC Port. Basically it's an ordinary parallel to
serial converter, but there are a few major advantages compared to those
on market right now (and believe it, we went through the available options
on market quite thoroughly).

- The DNC Port is programmable to meet all the different handshake &
timing signals there are. No special hardware or software is needed for
programming the device, an ordinary terminal program does the job.
- The device can be used both ways, to replace the paper tape reader as
well as to replace the paper tape puncher (of course you'll need one for
each device you want to replace).
- With two devices it is possible to connect an old machine tool to one
ordinary serial line on a computer for two way serial communication. We
provide also the connecting cable between the two DNC Ports and the
optical isolator DNC Opto.
- The package contains a PROPER optical isolator DNC Opto with power
sources. This way the isolator really works - the ordinary ones do not
work properly with all the machine tools due to lack of power from the
machine tool serial ports.
- With the DNC Port it is possible (in most cases) to run the programs
directly from the PC, i.e. "drip feeding" of the long programs is
possible.


We have connected a very big number of these old parallel port machine
tools and so added their life span with 10-15 years - the old ones really
have the proper build. If you want to have more information about this
product and our main product, the BOX-NET DNC, check the URL

http://www.manusoft.fi/



Timo



-- 
I				     I Timo Hyvonen, tsh@iki.fi            I
I  "Mr. Worf, scan that ship."       	I Savilankatu 1bA24 FIN-00250 Hki  I
I  "Aye, Captain... 300 DPI?" 	           I Phone +358-40-5526031 	   I
I					     I http://www.iki.fi/tsh       I


From lewy1@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lewy1@ix.netcom.com(James I. Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 06:36:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <4qqlon$6st@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>
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In <1996Jun25.141259@miavx1> mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David
Munday) writes: 
>
>In article <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net>, bills@ttgwest.com (Bill
Strahan) writes:
>> Lee McGee <lmcgee@sgi.com> wrote:
>>>--
>>>I need to make a bunch of round washer-shaped parts (one inch,
>>>7/8 inch diameter) out of .090 and .063 4130N.  These have holes
>>>in the center, either 3/16 or 1/4".  They'll be used as weld-in
>>>reinforcements where bolts go through control sticks, etc...
>> 
>> Something I used to do when making wooden washers for airgun
silencers
>> (don't ask) was to mark the pattern on the material and center the
>> hole then drill the hole and cut the washer roughly to shape.  Once
I
>> had several cut out, I'd put them all onto a bolt the same size as
the
>> hole and tighten a nut onto them.   Then I would put this in a drill
>> and spin them against sandpaper.  I'm sure you could do the same
>> against the side of a grinder.  This way they are all the exact same
>> size and are perfectly round.
>> 
>That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the
elongated gear 
>attach fittings on the chapter champ.
>
>The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.
>
>-- 
>Dave Munday  -  mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu  -  munday@nku.edu
>Web Page:  http://ourworld.compuserve.com:80/homepages/munday
>PP-ASEL  -  Tandem Flybaby Builder  -  EAA-284 (Waynesville, OH)
>Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who do
not.


This is a good suggestion. I've done this before but I have a lathe and
and was able to machine the outside diameter. Sans a lathe the sander
should work well.


Just an opinion mindya.


Jim


From rcook@BIX.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 26 Jun 1996 07:05:49 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Max ben-Aaron wrote:
>I don't know for sure but I think that some valves are hollow and are
>filled with something noxious under pressure, so it behoves you to be
>careful.

Sodium and definitely bad news.

Some blacksmiths use valves for making small tools.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: gun barrel drilling? -Reply
Date: 26 Jun 1996 07:05:51 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 25
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Robert Galloway wrote:
>Sounds like beginning urban legend to me.
>
>rhg
>
>>I wouldn't go that far, but a friend did have a horse run up a $200 vet
>>bill this week by holding his breath until  he passed out and fell on
>>something sharp. Seems the friend didn't know enough to knee the horse
>when
>>trying to cinch on a saddle and simply waited for the horse to exhale.
>>Stubborn critter wouldn't exhale and passed out instead.
>>
>>>Fortunately, they do have one single redeeming feature.  They barbeque
>nicely.
>>
>>Only with long slow cooking and a rich marinade. Tongans prefer a
>mayonaise
>>base. :-)
>>
>>--RC
Perhaps, but the bit about barbequeing with mayonaise came from the Wall
Street Journal. They had an article a few years ago on the Tongan community
in Salt Lake City.

--RC


From klaas@uniface.nl Sun Jul  7 15:16:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!EU.net!sun4nl!sun4nl!knoware.nl!usenet
From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Does a carbon arc damage an electric welder ?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 07:43:57 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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A friend of mine told that making carbon arcs may damage an electric welder.
It's a 150 Amps one with 48 Volts AC secondary with a thermal circuitbreaker
(when the windings get too hot it will shut down).
I don't agree with him, but am not sure.
When I weld with it I make an arc using iron electrodes (the work and the
welding rod) and when I make an arc the "work" is the graphite crucible
attached
to the work clamp and the "welding rod" is the carbon stick attached via a 
6 sq mm copper wire to the handpiece with which you normally weld. 
He told me that the longer arc in the latter case makes the difference. 
Any opinion or advice on this ?

Thanks.



From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.campus.mci.net!not-for-mail
From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jacobs collet chuck
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 13:00:36 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
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I have a Jacobs spindle nose collet chuck for sale it has a d1-4
backplate full set of collets 1/16-1 3/8 It's in very nice condition
having not been used for last 10 years i'm asking 400.00 including
shipping but will take offers as i no longer have a lathe that it will
fit.
Danny Lester
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 14:00:33 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne, Florida
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4qrfq1$stt@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>
References: <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com> <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: billy.mlb.semi.harris.com

In article <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>,
Dave Keith <Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com> wrote:
>In article <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com says...
>>
>> ...of the 6 or so (taps) I've broken off this week...
>
>WOW,  what ARE you doing ?  How many holes did you thread this week ?
>
>dave
>

 Project was the construction of steel double doors for a business, made
of 1/8" wall, 1" box stock and 1/16" sheet, and a full perimeter 
frame consisting of 3"x1/2" plus 1" box (for the jamb) verticals and
3"x1/4" horizontal members, welded up so that they could knock down 
and reassemble on site. The frame has to support the two 100lb (approx)
apiece doors from one side, one hung off the other. It's a pretty 
impressive weldment, which took me over 80 hours to fabricate.  

 Hinges alone were 48 tapped holes, inset burglar bars for the large
center windows another 28, handle/lock/bolt/misc hardware another 35 or 
so. I seem to get anywhere from 0 to maybe 10 before I break the tap;
moving toward the latter as technique and discipline improve. The
taps just don't seem to stay sharp much beyond that, and this is 
generic mild steel stock.

 

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: LeBlond Regal
Date: 26 Jun 1996 16:00:52 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4qrmrk$hkg@news1.svc>
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According to a machine repairman friend of mine, the
Regal versions of the LeBlond had some fragile
gears in the headstock.  He mumbled something about
them being positioned at the top rear of the headstock.

One does not normally resurface LeBlond ways, they are
replaceable.  However, once replaced, alignment has
to be performed.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 26 Jun 1996 14:24:14 GMT
Organization: TI
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>In article <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>, shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim
>Shoppa) writes:
>
>>What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum
>>bowls?
>>
>>I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't
>>know about some public health law here that bans putting food in
>>aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any
>>event?
>>
>>
>
>There is no appropriate warning about foodstuff in aluminum as far as I
>know. However, it is advised not  to store food in aluminum as  tha acids
>may eat through the container. I once had this happen to a pot of my
>homemade chili.
>
>Bill Rittner

I'd be concerned about where the aluminum went that was "eaten".  Probably
now exists as aluminum compounds in the food.  Might be harmful.

Marty Jones


From PGiordani@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Patrick Giordani <PGiordani@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Photoetching
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 09:20:50 -0700
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Greetings,

I am interested in trying my hand at photoetching for jewelry 
fabrication, but have absoluely no idea how to go about doing it or how 
to make the equiptment. If anybody has some suggestions, please email me 
at lddemi@aol.com.

Thank you 

Patrick Giordani


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 10:08:58 -0700
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Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) wrote:
: 	--Getcher self a Whitney punch, or something similar. The 
	--Whoops! This device would have a problem with material as thick 
as .090in. It's really suited to thin brass, etc. Sorry about that...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Learning to say NO is harder 	
	COMING SOON		:	than learning to say YES...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Picking a MIG Welder, and Aluminum
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 16:08:44 GMT
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On Tue, 25 Jun 1996 16:51:58 GMT, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
wrote:

>Also, about the price, not 3X up if you consider the next step up
>might be a Hypertherm PowerMax 800

<stuff about EconoTig & Hypertherm Plasma Cutter snipped>

Yes, I guess I really have Alzheimers or just need a brain implant!. I
started to comment on the Miller EconoTig and then waxed verbose about
my new plasma cutter as a GREAT ALTERNATIVE. Well, only if you want to
cut with your welder! Sheesh, I read the "Miller" and being so fixated
with my new toy, thought for sure all the time that the post was about
Miller's cool little 110v plasma cutter, to which my comments applied.

Certifiably on dim,

Garfield


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun Jul  7 15:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Shaper Questions
Date: 26 Jun 1996 13:42:36 GMT
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George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net> wrote:
>I recently acquired an Atlas Shaper.  
>Can anyone give me anymore information on this machine?  I would also like to find a resource for a manual 
>and/or a copy of the manual.  



Clausing (219-533-0371) is the successor to Atlas and they have manuals available 
for about $5.00 plus shipping (or at least they did earlier this year). As was 
pointed out elsewhere, the manual is a couple of pages of "how to" plus lubrication 
points and a parts list. Clausing can supply some parts and will provide a print if 
they no longer have the part. I have dealt with them many times over the past 10 
years for both my lathe and shaper and have found them to be a very good company.

Good luck with your new shaper

Roger Weppelman  



From Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com Sun Jul  7 15:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 18:20:04 GMT
Organization: Develcon Electronics Ltd.
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References: <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com> <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca> <4qrfq1$stt@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>
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In article <4qrfq1$stt@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com says...
>
>In article <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>,
>Dave Keith <Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com> wrote:
>>In article <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.c
>om says...
>>>
>>> ...of the 6 or so (taps) I've broken off this week...
>>
>>WOW,  what ARE you doing ?  How many holes did you thread this week ?
>>
>>dave
>>
>
> Project was the construction of steel double doors for a business, made
>of 1/8" wall, 1" box stock and 1/16" sheet, and a full perimeter 
>frame consisting of 3"x1/2" plus 1" box (for the jamb) verticals and
>3"x1/4" horizontal members, welded up so that they could knock down 
>and reassemble on site. The frame has to support the two 100lb (approx)
>apiece doors from one side, one hung off the other. It's a pretty 
>impressive weldment, which took me over 80 hours to fabricate.  
>
> Hinges alone were 48 tapped holes, inset burglar bars for the large
>center windows another 28, handle/lock/bolt/misc hardware another 35 or 
>so. I seem to get anywhere from 0 to maybe 10 before I break the tap;
>moving toward the latter as technique and discipline improve. The
>taps just don't seem to stay sharp much beyond that, and this is 
>generic mild steel stock.

Thanks for satisfying my curiousity.  Sounds like impressive structure.
Having tapped in thin stock I know how dificult it is to keep the tap
square as you go.  Your comment about technique probably answers you own
question. It's the old adage "practice practice practice'.  It is anoying
when the practice becomes expansive though isn't it.

Thanks again,

dave



From Wayne@hom.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!homenet.hom.net!nnadmin@hom.net
From: Wayne@hom.net (Wayne Dixon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 0 - 6 IN. DEPTH MICROMETERS (S & T) $45.00 "LIMITED SUPPLY"
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 02:46:08 GMT
Organization: Homenet Communications, Inc
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I will be selling a LIMITED number of the following
6 IN. DEPTH MICROMETERS
(UNUSED )(SCHERR-TUMICO) 
for $45.00 + $5.00 s/h
"These are NOT CHEAP sets, but HIGH  QUALITY GAUGES"
You'll be glad you checked into them.
Many happy customers
Thanks
Wayne



From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tolerances for brass extrusions?
Date: 26 Jun 1996 18:47:53 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <DtKJFH.IA.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> rnichols@interaccess.com
(Robert Nichols) writes: 
>
>Would anyone out there happen to know typical production tolerances
for
>brass extrusions?  This would be for an extrusion with a cross section
>measuring 1.5" x 0.5" overall, minimum material thickness of .085",
>maximum thickness mostly below .100" but approaching .200" in one
area.
>There are no isolated voids.
>
>(No, I am not planning on producing extrusions in my basement.  I just
>want to know if I'm in the right ballpark before contacting
>manufacturers.)
>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


Bob -

While there may well be some folks following this newsgroup that can
help, I would suggest posting the same question to the newsgroup
sci.engr.manufacturing as well.  

Regards,
Dale



From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 26 Jun 1996 20:31:41 GMT
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In article <4qq96j$suo@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> writes:
|> A friend told me today that he saw a new, American made taper attachment for sale at Boeing 
|> Surplus for $75, not a bad buy if you need one and are in the area. Cheers Bob
|> 

	What does it attach to?

Bill



From buffalo@cencom.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Dennis J. Brown" <buffalo@cencom.net>
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:16:28 -0700
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David Munday wrote:
> 
> In article <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net>, bills@ttgwest.com (Bill Strahan) writes:
> > Lee McGee <lmcgee@sgi.com> wrote:
> >>--
> >>I need to make a bunch of round washer-shaped parts (one inch,
> >>7/8 inch diameter) out of .090 and .063 4130N.  These have holes
> >>in the center, either 3/16 or 1/4".  They'll be used as weld-in
> >>reinforcements where bolts go through control sticks, etc...
> >
> > Something I used to do when making wooden washers for airgun silencers
> > (don't ask) was to mark the pattern on the material and center the
> > hole then drill the hole and cut the washer roughly to shape.  Once I
> > had several cut out, I'd put them all onto a bolt the same size as the
> > hole and tighten a nut onto them.   Then I would put this in a drill
> > and spin them against sandpaper.  I'm sure you could do the same
> > against the side of a grinder.  This way they are all the exact same
> > size and are perfectly round.
> >
> That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the elongated gear
> attach fittings on the chapter champ.
> 
> The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.
> 
> --
> Dave Munday  -  mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu  -  munday@nku.edu
> Web Page:  http://ourworld.compuserve.com:80/homepages/munday
> PP-ASEL  -  Tandem Flybaby Builder  -  EAA-284 (Waynesville, OH)
> Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who do not.
The best way is to take bar stock, turn to the right diameter and 
then drill a hole of the proper size. Next with a cutoff tool cut 
them off at the right length. I do this all the time have made small 
brass washers down to about .005 in thickness


From cwh@aloft.att.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!cbgw3.att.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!news
From: Carl Hoffmeyer <cwh@aloft.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: files, no handles - why?
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 15:59:43 -0700
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Columbus, Ohio
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I had the privilege of growing up in my father's machine shop.

As a lad of ten or so I picked up a file one day and my father said:
"Son, where's the handle for that file?"  I ran off, got the handle,
and put it on.  Then I asked the ten-year-old's question:  "Can I use
the file without a handle?"

I'll never forget his response: "In my shop, son, just once."

Don't get me wrong - I'm not a purist (on this one :-).  I'll use a file
"barefoot" at the bench, for some light, quick hand filing, but I
like to put distance and something round between me and 
horsepower.

Thought you might enjoy the story too ;-)

Cheers,
Carl Hoffmeyer


From callanne@aztec.asu.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: callanne@aztec.asu.edu (ANNE B. WATSON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 03:16:03 GMT
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>
>Get a table of tapping drill sizes - but NOT an industrial one. 
>Industrial users have the technology to make clean threads in tight
>holes (i.e. machines, tapping jigs, etc.). They often aim to get
>up to 80% thread engagement.

Funny, I just jumped in here looking for a WWW source for tapping drill
sizes and this was the first message.

I tried a search on Yahoo,  nada   guess there are not any engineers with
web sites.

Guess I will just keep looking and if nothing shows up  will try the second 
most valuable resource site    the public library.
Anne
-- 


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 26 Jun 1996 16:43:10 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl4.crl.com

In article <4qqidd$ks4@newsreader.wustl.edu>,
Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
>J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:
>: Let's get our chemistry correct here.  Sodium will not burn in air.  
>: Sodium reacts with water to form sodium hydroxide (lye) and hydrogen.  It 
>: is the hydrogen that burns....If you cut them open, do it under oil 
>: (slush pump on the lathe, maybe) and you will see any sodium, if there 
>: (not likely these days, IMHO).  On the other hand, if it is not very 
>: humid where you are, you don't need the oil.  If you find sodium valves 
>: and still want them, or the sodium for some reason, put the valves in hot 
>: oil (look up the melting point in a handbook) and let it melt out.  The 
>: sodium will collect up in a ball at the bottom of your oil and when cool, 
>: just keep it under oil.
>
>Yes, let's!  Sodium WILL most definitely burn in air.  It will not self-
>ignite in air, but if started with a torch, hot cutting tool, etc., it
>will sustain a mean fire in plain air!  This is one of the metals which
>can cause the dreaded 'heavy metal fire'.  It does take a bit of heat,
>however to start it, but cutting tools can make very fine dust of a metal
>on occasion, and that dust can ignite very easily.  The melting point of
>Sodium is 97 degrees C.

Sodium is like putty, it doesn't make dust.

You are causing yourself to be right by setting your parameters where you 
want them.  I did not say to light the sodium with a torch.  Nor did I 
say to melt it.  In an ordinary, ambient temperature, water free, mixture 
of gases such as those found in air, sodium will not self-ignite, and 
will not burn.

>As for what goes on when sodium burns in combination with water, the
>reaction is extremely exothermic.  The burning hydrogen (in air) is
>a minor byproduct of the reaction.  In fact, I think you will smell
>ammonia, if you are fool enough to try this.  I had a friend who
>experimented with magnesium.  While burning powdered magnesium, he had
>a small (2 cm) ball of glowing powdered Mg, with unburned Mg on the inside
>protected by the ash on the outside.  he then poured a glass of water on
>it.

This is called bait and switch.  Mg is not Na.  The only product of the 
reaction between Na and H20 is NaOH and H2, the H2 burns with oxygen in 
the air to form H2O, otherwise known as water.

  It was spectacular!  There was a large blue-white flash, a huge
>puff of smoke, white-hot streamers shot all over the room, and the smell
>of ammonia was unmistakable.  the hot, free Hydrogen wanted to combine
>with anything available, and after the Oxygen in the immediate area was
>consumed, it grabbed the Nitrogen in the air to make ammonia.
>
>This is similar to the Sodium reaction, except that the sodium will start
>the reaction without any heat being applied, and the flash will be
>orange-tinted instead of blue-white.  

I guess I don't follow your argument, what's the point?

>As for cutting valves open with a tool with flood coolant, most coolants
>contain WATER!!!!  If you try this, definitely make sure there is NO water
>in your coolant!  And also make sure it is a coolant that is rated to be
>used on magnesium - many aren't, and I think that applies to sodium, too.
>They don't even mention it, because few people machine sodium - thank God!

If you are in a shop and don't know what is in your cutting fluid, then I 
guess you shouldn't be in the shop.  I specifically said that sodium 
reacts with water.  That should be a clue to any decent machinist that a 
soluble oil suds should not be used.  There are plenty of plain cutting 
oil systems around.

There are many metals that will burn.  Magnesium and Aluminum are among 
the most common.  Mg is used for flash powder and in fireworks.  Al is 
used in thermit welding.  Virtually any metal that can be finely powdered 
and blown in the air can be lit off at its melting point.

JerryK



From al@chelmsford.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10" Southbend thrust washers
Date: 26 Jun 1996 23:32:17 GMT
Organization: Chelmsford On-Line Services	
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tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com> wrote:
>Does anyone know where Southbend gets its flat ball bearing thrust 
>bearings that go on the cross feed screw by the taper attachement?
>These washer-like thrust bearings are about the size of a nickel coin,
>the cage is made of brass, and the ball bearings are staked in place.
>
>I called Southbend the other day and they wanted $37.00 each! It looks to
>me like its a $5 item that they buy from some bearing manufacturer off the
>shelf.
>
>I checked the Thomas Register but there is about 100 thrust bearing
>manufacturers and probably only a handful make this item. It would
>be easier if someone knew a source of supply.
>
>Thanx....
>
>

   I bought some of these for an old South Bend vertical mill I rebuilt a 
while back. I ordered from a company called STOCK DRIVE PRODUCTS. They 
are in New York or New Jersey, I think. Real easy people to deal with. I 
just ordered over the phone, and they sent them COD. If you need, email 
me and I can get thier phone number from work. Ask for thier catalogs, a 
nice little boxed set of 4 books with all sorts of good info on bearings, 
belts, gears and things. They sell these thrust bearings in lots of 
sizes. I think they cost me less than 10 bucks.

  Hope that helps, 
                AL



From greenest@monpo.sw2.k12.wy.us Sun Jul  7 15:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!cbgw3.att.com!cbgw1.att.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!Tristan.sw2.k12.wy.us!news
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Uploads
Message-ID: <31D19535.6231@monpo.sw2.k12.wy.us>
From: greenest <greenest@monpo.sw2.k12.wy.us>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 14:53:25 -0500
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sorry for the waste of bandwidth,  Just testing message uploading on a
new server


From al@chelmsford.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!li.net!cam-news-feed5.bbnplanet.com!terra.net!server1.chelmsford.com!usenet
From: alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 26 Jun 1996 23:51:45 GMT
Organization: Chelmsford On-Line Services	
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  Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking 
that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm 
gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 30:1 
ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or 
chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, I 
should end up with a servicable dividing head. 

  What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to come 
up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a 
standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of 
need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one. 

  How about some thoughts!!

                             Tahnks, AL



From frsias@ces.clemson.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ingr.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!info.uah.edu!hubcap.clemson.edu!usenet
From: Fred Sias <frsias@ces.clemson.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor oil?
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 11:04:50 -0700
Organization: Clemson University
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <31D17BC2.40A9@ces.clemson.edu>
References: <4qmpl9$pvu@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <4qn49k$j8b@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <4qni83$pf6@news.ios.com>
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The manufacturer of my old vacuum pump told me to just get
some SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil and use that.  
Fred

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------Fred R. Sias, Jr., Clemson University, Clemson, South Carolina 29634-0915
Office: (803)656-5903 Fax:  (803)656-5910  Email: frsias@ces.clemson.edu
Home:	120 Holly Avenue
	Clemson, South Carolina 29631          Home phone: (803)654-6833
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


From hively@nosc.mil Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!info.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.nosc.mil!news
From: "Thomas A. Hively" <hively@nosc.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding with power supplies?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 00:38:06 GMT
Organization: NCCOSC RDT&E Div, code 824
Lines: 14
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Stick welders have open circuit voltages of around 80 volts and droop to 
about 25 Volts when the arc is lit. The large open circuit voltage is 
needed to help strike the arc and keep it stable. Also the stick welding 
supply is a " constant current" supply not a "constant woltage" supply 
like you have.

MIG welder use a "constant voltage" supply but they are adjustable from 
about 18 to 30 volts.

I guess your next hobby will be metal plating; just kidding!

tom




From gwhite@tiac.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!cbgw3.att.com!cbgw1.att.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news-in.tiac.net!news-central.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 00:44:26 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <4qslfo$q67@news-central.tiac.net>
References: <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com> <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca> <4qrfq1$stt@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com> <4qrv0k$2vj@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4qrv0k$2vj@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>,
   Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith) wrote:
<In article <4qrfq1$stt@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>, 
jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com says...
<>
<>In article <4q9m9l$f5a@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>,
<>Dave Keith <Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com> wrote:
<>>In article <4q8rtq$qo7@hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com>, 
jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.c
<>om says...
<>>>
<>>> ...of the 6 or so (taps) I've broken off this week...
<>>
<>>WOW,  what ARE you doing ?  How many holes did you thread this week ?
<>>
<>>dave
<>>
<>
<> Project was the construction of steel double doors for a business, 
made
<>of 1/8" wall, 1" box stock and 1/16" sheet, and a full perimeter 
<>frame consisting of 3"x1/2" plus 1" box (for the jamb) verticals and
<>3"x1/4" horizontal members, welded up so that they could knock down 
<>and reassemble on site. The frame has to support the two 100lb (approx)
<>apiece doors from one side, one hung off the other. It's a pretty 
<>impressive weldment, which took me over 80 hours to fabricate.  
<>
<> Hinges alone were 48 tapped holes, inset burglar bars for the large
<>center windows another 28, handle/lock/bolt/misc hardware another 35 or 
<>so. I seem to get anywhere from 0 to maybe 10 before I break the tap;
<>moving toward the latter as technique and discipline improve. The
<>taps just don't seem to stay sharp much beyond that, and this is 
<>generic mild steel stock.
<
<Thanks for satisfying my curiousity.  Sounds like impressive structure.
<Having tapped in thin stock I know how dificult it is to keep the tap
<square as you go.  Your comment about technique probably answers you own
<question. It's the old adage "practice practice practice'.  It is 
anoying
<when the practice becomes expansive though isn't it.
<
I don't know if this will help, but Brownell's (the gunsmith supplier, 
address is in FAQ) sells a very nice tapping guide for around $30.  It 
doesn't take too many busted taps to pay for it, and I think I've only  
broken one tap in 15 years since I bought it.  It's a small block with a 
set of interchangeable sleeves to fit different tap sizes.  You can get 
it into places you can't get at using any of the larger tapping gadgets. 
 The one time I busted a tap, it was a 6-32, and I simply over-torqued 
it.  I've also found that two-flute spiral-point 'gun' taps are much 
easier to work with on through-holes than the regular variety.  They have 
more 'meat' to them, and are therefore more break-resistant.

Doug White


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10" Southbend thrust washers
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 17:42:22 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <31D1D8EE.6A24@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4qnin5$pf6@news.ios.com> <4qsha1$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
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To: alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------401A1F715D62
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alan anganes wrote:
> 
> tonylos <tonylos@village.ios.com> wrote:
> >Does anyone know where Southbend gets its flat ball bearing thrust
> >bearings that go on the cross feed screw by the taper attachement?
> >These washer-like thrust bearings are about the size of a nickel coin,
> >the cage is made of brass, and the ball bearings are staked in place.
> >
> >I called Southbend the other day and they wanted $37.00 each! It looks to
> >me like its a $5 item that they buy from some bearing manufacturer off the
> >shelf.
> >
> >I checked the Thomas Register but there is about 100 thrust bearing
> >manufacturers and probably only a handful make this item. It would
> >be easier if someone knew a source of supply.
> >
> >Thanx....
> >
> >
> 
>    I bought some of these for an old South Bend vertical mill I rebuilt a
> while back. I ordered from a company called STOCK DRIVE PRODUCTS. They
> are in New York or New Jersey, I think. Real easy people to deal with. I
> just ordered over the phone, and they sent them COD. If you need, email
> me and I can get thier phone number from work. Ask for thier catalogs, a
> nice little boxed set of 4 books with all sorts of good info on bearings,
> belts, gears and things. They sell these thrust bearings in lots of
> sizes. I think they cost me less than 10 bucks.
> 
>   Hope that helps,
>                 AL


SDP has a web page - don't have it handy.
I have attached the address for the FAQ.
You should be able to get it from there..

Paul in AJ AZ

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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
--------------401A1F715D62--



From wcottr@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: William Cottrell <wcottr@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Engraving tools & supplies
Date: 27 Jun 1996 00:34:11 GMT
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Engraving tools and supplies wanted. Gravers, handles, chase hammers, 
vise, art books, gun books, GRS equipment, etc. What do you have? E-mail 
list & prices.



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:16:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 17:53:03 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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alan anganes wrote:
> 
>   Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking
> that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm
> gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 30:1
> ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or
> chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, I
> should end up with a servicable dividing head.
> 
>   What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to come
> up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a
> standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of
> need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one.
> 
>   How about some thoughts!!
> 
>                              Tahnks, AL


Dave Gingery authored a book (order from Lindsay) on the construction of a
dividing head.  I've never looked ito it but suppose that 40 works out well 
as to the number of holes needed in the index plates.

In "The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos" (Village Press) on page two is a
construction article to make a dividing head, plates, sector arms, etc.  
Near the end of the article is a brief rundown of the math involved.

On page 10 of "Metalworking Two" Steve Wellcome has an article on the
mathematics of the dividing head.

Good Luck

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------8CE715B3F0F
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VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------8CE715B3F0F
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Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------8CE715B3F0F--



From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Sun Jul  7 15:16:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ptd.net!news
From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (bikerbil)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bolts VS Rivets
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 02:26:43 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
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I am building a frame for a motor and pulleys out of angle iron.

Since I dont have a welder I gotta bolt it together, however I was
thinkin that maybe rivets might be stronger. I remember using them on
something back in high school. It was just a matter of beating them in
place of a nut and bolt.

Are they in fact stronger than bolting it together? How do I tell the
difference between the rivets that you use with a hammer and ones that
use a riveter (I dont know what the tool is called, Ive just seen them
on TV)

Thanks...


From yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr Sun Jul  7 15:16:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!netnews.nwnet.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.dacom.co.kr!usenet
From: "moon soo,choi" <yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for machine
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:56:11 -0700
Organization: DACOM Internet
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Dear sir,
We are looking for following machine urgently.

NAME OF MACHINE REQUIRED : USED CNC DRILLING MACHINE TO MAKE     
                               HOLES ON P C B 
SPECIFICATION               : ABOVE 700 X 700MM
ORIGIN                       : JAPAN (EX: MISBISHI..)
PRICE CONDITION             : C&F KOREA
QUANTITY REGUIRED         : 4 SETS

You are kindly requested if you will find above machines,please quote us
by urgent  fax enabling us to proceed further business with our customers.
For your reference, We are one of the well-known Used(100% reconditioned)
machinery and plants exporters in Seoul Korea.
Looking forward to hearing reply from you soon.
Yours faithfully,
Yes international co.,ltd
Phon No : 82-2-478-0995
Fax  No : 82-478-0994
E-mail   : yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr
URL    : http://www.dacom.co.kr/~yesmc



From greg@indiana.edu Sun Jul  7 15:16:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: greg@indiana.edu (Gregory Travis)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 27 Jun 96 01:23:02 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <greg.835838582@gtravis>
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mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David Munday) writes:

>In article <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net>, bills@ttgwest.com (Bill Strahan) writes:
>> 
>> Something I used to do when making wooden washers for airgun silencers
>> (don't ask) was to mark the pattern on the material and center the
>> hole then drill the hole and cut the washer roughly to shape.  Once I
>> had several cut out, I'd put them all onto a bolt the same size as the
>> hole and tighten a nut onto them.   Then I would put this in a drill
>> and spin them against sandpaper.  I'm sure you could do the same
>> against the side of a grinder.  This way they are all the exact same
>> size and are perfectly round.
>> 
>That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the elongated gear 
>attach fittings on the chapter champ.

>The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.

Doesn't the heat of sanding tend to ruin the temper of the steel?

"or are you just REALLY patient?" greg
--

greg		greg@indiana.edu	http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/


From elop9@netvision.net.il Sun Jul  7 15:16:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-penn.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.NetVision.net.il!news
From: elop9@netvision.net.il
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for magnesium casting
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 08:41:20 PDT
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I am looking for companies that are producing 
magnesium investment casting .

thanks 

shlomo levin 

mechanical engineer
elop .



From daveb@iinet.net.au Sun Jul  7 15:16:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: daveb@iinet.net.au (Dave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: How are steel bottles made?
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 23:34:51 GMT
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TJNYE@MANSCI.watstar.uwaterloo.ca (Tim Nye) wrote:

>In article <4qa53r$4so@opera.iinet.net.au> daveb@iinet.net.au (Dave) writes:

>>Something I have often wondered, is how such things as oxygen
>>cylinders are made? I understand they can't simply be cast: they have
>>to be forged. But how to forge a hollow object with such a small neck?
>>They don't seem to be made in 2 halves & welded up, either.

>There are two stages.  First is 'backwards extrusion'.  A short cylindrical 
>chunk or red hot steel is placed in the bottom of a die which has a 
>cylindrical cavity the same OD as the finished bottle.

>Then a long, cylindrical punch with the same diameter as the ID comes down 
>into the work.  As it decends, the only place for the hot steel to go is up 
>through the gap between the punch and die, and you end up with a tall cup.

>For the second stage, the top of the bottle is heated red hot again, and a 
>machine called a 'swager' which has opposing hammers pounds the sides closed 
>to form the neck of the bottle.  The hammers are shaped to provide the nice 
>contours, and they rotate around the bottle as the process continues.

>There, confused yet? ;-)

>Tim

 Many thanks, Tim. I admit to amazement that the hammering process
(done only from the outside) can give the accurate form it does.
Methinks I won't try this at home...

 Thanks also to everyone else who responded.

--  Dave Brooks <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key: finger  daveb@opera.iinet.net.au
                servers daveb@iinet.net.au
    fingerprint 20 8F 95 22 96 D6 1C 0B  3D 4D C3 D4 50 A1 C4 34



From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: 27 Jun 1996 02:32:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4qsrrn$q7b@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <31D0D2AE.1531@ikp.liu.se>
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I can't say much about who George Thomas was other than he was a very 
respected model engineer in the UK, who published articles in Model 
Engineer.  He wrote two (that I know of) very fine books which I 
recommend to anyone interested in machine work.

  Dividing and Graduating    A wealth of knowlege on the subject         
              and construction of dividing equipment.

         
 The Model Engineers Workshop Manual

             300 pages of text, photos, and drawings covering many       
             aspects of tooling used by the model builder or hobby       
             machinist.


Both books are published by Tee Publishing, Leicestershire, England

Perhaps others can tell us more about Mr. Thomas.


Best regards,

Chuck






From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!legba.synergy.net!news.scruz.net!usenet
From: "Lee B. Marshall" <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CNC upgrade?
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 17:00:11 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 11
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I've the opportunity to purchase a Gorton #230  ball screw vertical mill 
with hand cranks and  Tru-Trace hydraulic tracer on all 3 axis for 
$1500. It is is pretty good shape except for the tracer valve which is 
going to be inordinately expensive to repair. Knowing a little about 
chasing a hydraulic problem down to it's last leak, it seems to me that 
I might have a likely candidate for CNC conversion.
The lead screws are driven by hydraulic motors and timing belts. Not 
having servo motors to begin with may blow this project out of the 
water. Any comments?

Thanks to all


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 27 Jun 1996 03:02:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4qstje$r9n@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <4qq96j$suo@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <4qs6nd$nl3@news.sdd.hp.com>
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wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp)) wrote:
>In article <4qq96j$suo@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>|> A friend told me today that he saw a new, American made taper attachment for sale at Boeing 
>|> Surplus for $75, not a bad buy if you need one and are in the area. Cheers Bob
>|> 
>
>	What does it attach to?
>
>Bill
>
Bill, I haven't seen it, it's for a lathe, suspect a large one as my friend was thinking of it 
for his LeBlond 18", then desided he really didn;t need it. Cheers Bob



From yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr Sun Jul  7 15:17:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.dacom.co.kr!usenet
From: "moon soo,choi" <yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: LOOKING FOR BUSINESS PARTNERS!
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:51:21 -0700
Organization: DACOM Internet
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31D2D829.3FC4@bora.dacom.co.kr>
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="PARTNER.TXT"

LOOKING FOR BUSINESS PARTNERS!!

Dear sir,
As one of the reputable and reliable dealers of Used Machinery 
and Plants in Seoul Korea,We are looking for reliable foreign partners
who can supply used (or reconditioned) machinery as D/A Base.
For your reference,We have more than 300 dealers in our domestic
market through our long experiences in this field for last 9 years.
We are assuring you that we can make good market in CNC Machine
and punch press espcially.
If you are interested, please feel free contact us by internet soon.
Your faithfully.
E mail: yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr
URL : http://www.dacom.co.kr/~yesmc     



From yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr Sun Jul  7 15:17:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.dacom.co.kr!usenet
From: "moon soo,choi" <yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for business partners!
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:53:45 -0700
Organization: DACOM Internet
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31D2D8B9.42A3@bora.dacom.co.kr>
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="PARTNER.TXT"

LOOKING FOR BUSINESS PARTNERS!!

Dear sir,
As one of the reputable and reliable dealers of Used Machinery 
and Plants in Seoul Korea,We are looking for reliable foreign partners
who can supply used (or reconditioned) machinery as D/A Base.
For your reference,We have more than 300 dealers in our domestic
market through our long experiences in this field for last 9 years.
We are assuring you that we can make good market in CNC Machine
and punch press espcially.
If you are interested, please feel free contact us by internet soon.
Your faithfully.
E mail: yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr
URL : http://www.dacom.co.kr/~yesmc     



From yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr Sun Jul  7 15:17:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.dacom.co.kr!usenet
From: "moon soo,choi" <yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for PCB drill machine
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:06:34 -0700
Organization: DACOM Internet
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <31D2DBBA.41F6@bora.dacom.co.kr>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bora.dacom.co.kr
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="PCBDRILL.TXT"

Dear sir,
We are looking for following machine urgently.

NAME OF MACHINE REQUIRED : USED CNC DRILLING MACHINE TO MAKE     
                               HOLES ON P C B 
SPECIFICATION               : ABOVE 700 X 700MM
ORIGIN                       : JAPAN (EX: MISBISHI..)
PRICE CONDITION             : C&F KOREA
QUANTITY REGUIRED         : 4 SETS

You are kindly requested if you will find above machines,please quote us
by urgent  fax enabling us to proceed further business with our customers.
For your reference, We are one of the well-known Used(100% reconditioned)
machinery and plants exporters in Seoul Korea.
Looking forward to hearing reply from you soon.
Yours faithfully,
Yes international co.,ltd
Phon No : 82-2-478-0995
Fax  No : 82-478-0994
E-mail   : yesmc@bora.dacom.co.kr
URL    : http://www.dacom.co.kr/~yesmc



From glbwelding@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: glbwelding@aol.com (GLBWELDING)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Take a welding class!!
Date: 27 Jun 1996 00:05:10 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4qt19m$dhk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: glbwelding@aol.com (GLBWELDING)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

We teach oxyacetylene welding in the Atlanta Ga. area and also with
another
company across the country. call 1-800-258-0126 for more info and
schedules.


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!aux.stedwards.edu!admin.stedwards.edu!rays
From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 27 Jun 1996 03:53:18 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
Lines: 27
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References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
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alan anganes (al@chelmsford.com) wrote:
:   Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking 
: that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm 
: gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 30:1 
: ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or 
: chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, I 
: should end up with a servicable dividing head. 

:   What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to come 
: up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a 
: standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of 
: need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one. 

:   How about some thoughts!!

:                              Tahnks, AL

I built one using a 60 to 1 worm gear.  The body was two 4 x 6 x 1.5 plates
and the "spindle" was turned to match my lathe spindle so that it would
accecpt my chuck or face plate.  It was a fun exercise and I have used it
extensively as both a dividing head and a rotary table.  If you have a 
milling machine, lathe, and time, and not much money go for it.
Get the book mentioned in other posts to get some ideas, but remember
that you don't have to cast anything as long as you have solid material
and enough time.




From kitto@hughes.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.hughes.net!usenet
From: kitto@hughes.net (William Kitto)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: metric alumina cut burrs
Date: 27 Jun 1996 04:12:09 GMT
Organization: Hughes Internet Access Systems
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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Does anyone know where I can obtain a 10mm 8 or fewer flute alumina cut 
burr with a 6mm shaft? 



From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 12:02:40 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <09960527065712.OUI29.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
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In article <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>, From callanne@aztec.asu.edu (ANNE 
B. WATSON), the following was written:
> I tried a search on Yahoo,  nada   guess there are not any engineers 
> with web sites.

Anne,

I'll bet there are!  First of all, try a better search engine, Alta
Vista

http://www.altavista.digital.com

With this, you can search not only Web sites, but also Usenet messages.

In the meantime, can I help you find a tap drill size?
 

--
>From  Scott Logan,
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: 27 Jun 1996 12:20:01 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4qtu9h$hov@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qc39l$rmg@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31CCE1BB.1A3B@hsr.no> <4qj88s$aaf@wilma.widomaker.com> <jnaylor-2306961441390001@192.0.2.1> <4qo5la$efd@news.wco.com> <jnaylor-2506961953120001@192.0.2.1> <31D0AA59.3D9A@ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30434 sci.energy:51610

Good grief.  You really know how to lead people down the garden
path, don't you, Paul?


There's a bit of information about Intelligen Energy Systems available
on the web.  I just did an AltaVista search ( http://altavista.digital.com/ )
on "Intelligen Energy" and got a few matches.  One of the most promising
was http://www.nahb.com/research/homebase/newslttr/OILFILED.html




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: 27 Jun 1996 13:02:34 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4qu0pa$la0@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qc39l$rmg@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31CCE1BB.1A3B@hsr.no> <4qj88s$aaf@wilma.widomaker.com> <jnaylor-2306961441390001@192.0.2.1> <4qo5la$efd@news.wco.com> <jnaylor-2506961953120001@192.0.2.1> <31D0AA59.3D9A@ix.netcom.com> <4qtu9h$hov@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30435 sci.energy:51611

Opps...that should be http://www.nahb.com/research/homebase/newslttr/OILFIRED.html




From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:17:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!news.cerf.net!news.lainet.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Hula Hula engine.
Message-ID: <1996Jun27.074939.23457@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <31C9B356.481D@email.unc.edu>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 07:49:39 GMT
Lines: 13

Douglas Cutler <cutler@email.unc.edu> writes:

>Can anybody tell me where I can get the drawings for the "Hula-Hula" 
>engine.
>Thanks,

Full set with instructions are available from Village Press
in their book, "Steam and Sterling Engines You Can Build"
vol II.  The book costs about $35 and has some very good designs
in it (Also has some turkeys)
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From ulfbe@ikp.liu.se Sun Jul  7 15:17:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.cais.net!nntp.uio.no!solace!news.ifm.liu.se!usenet
From: Ulf Bengtsson <ulfbe@ikp.liu.se>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photoetching
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:55:47 +0000
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <31D268B3.5BCC@ikp.liu.se>
References: <31D16362.40F7@worldnet.att.net>
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To: Patrick Giordani <PGiordani@worldnet.att.net>

Patrick Giordani wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I am interested in trying my hand at photoetching for jewelry
> fabrication, but have absoluely no idea how to go about doing it or how
> to make the equiptment. If anybody has some suggestions, please email me
> at lddemi@aol.com.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Patrick Giordani

If you plan using brass have a look at

http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html

Ulf B


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 27 Jun 1996 08:00:11 CDT
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <4qu0kr$cl9@moon.htc.honeywell.com>
References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dons.htc.honeywell.com
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.4

In article <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>, alan anganes 
<al@chelmsford.com> says:
>
>  Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking 
>that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm 
>gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 
30:1 
>ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or 
>chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, 
I 
>should end up with a servicable dividing head. 
>
>  What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to 
come 
>up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a 
>standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of 
>need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one. 
>
>  How about some thoughts!!
>
>                             Tahnks, AL
>
I wanted something very small for my Sherline.  So commercial ones other 
than Sherline's own were out.  The combination of price, plus some lack 
of features I wanted, caused my to try to make my own.  I bought a 40:1 
worm and gear and designed it around that.

I am early in the construction, so cannot claim much about its success.  
But I do have the drawings, which are done in Autosketch, which can 
export DXF.

One thing I did unusual was the case material.  I had intended to make 
Delrin bushings, since I had a lot of scrap Delrin, and it makes good 
bearings.  Then it dawned on me- why machine an aluminum case and a 
Delrin bushing, when I can make the whole case out of the delrin.  I 
found I had a piece large enough to act as case, and another to act as 
cover, so that is what I am doing.  Of course, it will not be super 
strong, and may not be super accurate, but for my modeling activities 
these are not as important.

Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stauffer@htc.honeywell.com


From samg@col.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Followup-To: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Date: 22 Jun 1996 16:12:23 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
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References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qc39l$rmg@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31C9BEA1.4D3C@ballard.ca.boeing.com>
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Richard K. Downer (rkd7949@ballard.ca.boeing.com) wrote:
: Robert Galloway wrote:
: > 
: > >Has anyone used these? One of my pipe dreams is to build a residential
: > >co-generation system (5-8kw) and wonder if one of these might be a
: > >candidate.
: > >
: > >--
: > >Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
: > >Wichita KS
: > 
: > If you have residential natural gas you might want to think in terms of a
: > gas engine rather than a diesel
: > 
: > rhg

: Good idea! I live where we lose power maybe once every other year, but when we
: do it's for three or four days. We have a generator, but we have to stop it to
: re-fill the gasoline tank. We also have propane. How difficult would it be to
: convert a small gasoline engine to propane? Who would I contact about that? The
: generator people or the propane company?
: -- 
: Rick Downer
: rkd7949@ballard.ca.boeing.com
: 6-6D91       965-1947

: These opinions are not mine, they're Boeing's. Boeing paid me while I 
: opined them, so Boeing owns them. But Boeing might not agree with them.

I'd start with your local propane distributor.  They probably won't be able
to do it, but might be able to recomment someone, or where to look.

samg

a.k.a Sam Gaylord (samg@cs.itc.hp.com)
Hewlett Packard/Colorado Springs


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 07:03:55 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <31D294CB.3E36@ix.netcom.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Jun 27  9:02:53 AM CDT 1996
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To: "ANNE B. WATSON" <callanne@aztec.asu.edu>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------7F7837374D44
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

ANNE B. WATSON wrote:
> 
> >
> >Get a table of tapping drill sizes - but NOT an industrial one.
> >Industrial users have the technology to make clean threads in tight
> >holes (i.e. machines, tapping jigs, etc.). They often aim to get
> >up to 80% thread engagement.
> 
> Funny, I just jumped in here looking for a WWW source for tapping drill
> sizes and this was the first message.
> 
> I tried a search on Yahoo,  nada   guess there are not any engineers with
> web sites.
> 
> Guess I will just keep looking and if nothing shows up  will try the second
> most valuable resource site    the public library.
> Anne
> --

I think I got a table with some tool or a drill set at Sears.  
Maybe a drill sharpening gadget.  Sometimes there is a table in a
drill index (box).

Paul in AJ AZ

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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
--------------7F7837374D44--



From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Sun Jul  7 15:17:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!in2p3.fr!swidir.switch.ch!serra.unipi.it!news
From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 27 Jun 1996 14:36:20 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <4qu694$r3k@serra.unipi.it>
References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>, alan anganes <al@chelmsford.com> says:
>
>  Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking 
>that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm 
>gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 30:1 
>ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or 
>chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, I 
>should end up with a servicable dividing head. 

A friend of mine has done some similar, him has followed one rotating head approach
in place of a dividing head. I mean that him has placed one graduated disk in place
of indexing plate.
I tink that the true problems are:
1) backlash. The my friend has used a fairly good new unit and the play is limited.
2) indexing plates, You can buy it but....

>
>  What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to come 
>up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a 
>standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of 
>need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one. 

40:1 and 60:1 have nothing magical, have only a large number of prime number.
40 is 2*2*2*5 then any number that is a combination of those numbers can be
easy produced.
60 is 2*2*3*5 and has one more number.
if you want to produce any multiple of 3 on one 40:1 dividing head you must use one
plate that has a circle of holes that is one multiple of 3.
Obviously the larger the ratio more are reduced the plate errors.
If you have a 30:1 reduction unit the errors of the plate are divided by 30
if the unit is 60:1 are divided by 60.
I hope that all this is clear, is difficult for me to explain in english, but
no problem, i would find problem also to explain it in italian :-)

>
>  How about some thoughts!!
>
>                             Tahnks, AL
>

Ciao


Paolo

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: William Cottrell <wcottr@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Engraving tools and supplies
Date: 27 Jun 1996 15:07:00 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Engraving tools & supplies wanted. Gravers, hankles, chasing hammers, 
vise, art books, gun books, GRS equipment etc.. What do you have? E-mail 
list & prices.



From jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!hearye.mlb.semi.harris.com!billy.mlb.semi.harris.com!jws
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding with power supplies?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 15:03:20 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne, Florida
Lines: 7
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References: <4qmhdd$3sc@server.eng.dsea.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: billy.mlb.semi.harris.com

 Might make a decent spot welder. Too low a voltage for arc work. I 
guess you could control them with about anything, on the primary side.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#


From john@siu.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:56:43 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960627105607.17841T-100000@reliant>
References: <31CDF588.41C6@sgi.com> <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net> <1996Jun25.141259@miavx1> <greg.835838582@gtravis>
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On 27 Jun 1996, Gregory Travis wrote:

> mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David Munday) writes:
> 
> >In article <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net>, bills@ttgwest.com (Bill Strahan) writes:
> >> 
> >> Something I used to do when making wooden washers for airgun silencers
> >> (don't ask) was to mark the pattern on the material and center the
> >> hole then drill the hole and cut the washer roughly to shape.  Once I
> >> had several cut out, I'd put them all onto a bolt the same size as the
> >> hole and tighten a nut onto them.   Then I would put this in a drill
> >> and spin them against sandpaper.  I'm sure you could do the same
> >> against the side of a grinder.  This way they are all the exact same
> >> size and are perfectly round.
> >> 
> >That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the elongated gear 
> >attach fittings on the chapter champ.
> 
> >The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.
> 
> Doesn't the heat of sanding tend to ruin the temper of the steel?
> 
> "or are you just REALLY patient?" greg
> --

I chuck them up in the lathe and use a file.  4130 files nicely.
John



From redrok@pclink.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!mr.net!news.mr.net!news.protocom.com!news.pclink.com!not-for-mail
From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Message-ID: <31CD653B.3DDD@pclink.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 08:39:39 -0700
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qc39l$rmg@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31C9BEA1.4D3C@ballard.ca.boeing.com> <4qh617$eua@nonews.col.hp.com>
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Sam Gaylord wrote:
> 
> Richard K. Downer (rkd7949@ballard.ca.boeing.com) wrote:
> : Robert Galloway wrote:
> : >
> : > >Has anyone used these? One of my pipe dreams is to build a residential
> : > >co-generation system (5-8kw) and wonder if one of these might be a
> : > >candidate.
> : > >
> : > >--
> : > >Jim Naylor                             jnaylor@southwind.net
> : > >Wichita KS
> : >
> : > If you have residential natural gas you might want to think in terms of a
> : > gas engine rather than a diesel
> : >
> : > rhg
> 
> : Good idea! I live where we lose power maybe once every other year, but when we
> : do it's for three or four days. We have a generator, but we have to stop it to
> : re-fill the gasoline tank. We also have propane. How difficult would it be to
> : convert a small gasoline engine to propane? Who would I contact about that? The
> : generator people or the propane company?
> : --
> : Rick Downer
> : rkd7949@ballard.ca.boeing.com
> : 6-6D91       965-1947
> 
> : These opinions are not mine, they're Boeing's. Boeing paid me while I
> : opined them, so Boeing owns them. But Boeing might not agree with them.
> 
> I'd start with your local propane distributor.  They probably won't be able
> to do it, but might be able to recomment someone, or where to look.
> 
> samg
> 
> a.k.a Sam Gaylord (samg@cs.itc.hp.com)
> Hewlett Packard/Colorado Springs

This is just an overview on how it is done. I did it once to a VW engine.
 
Note I will refere to a gas as gas and gasoline as gasoline.

All carburators have venturies. This is a narrow portion in the flow of air as it passes 
through a pipe. When flowing through the venturie the pressure goes down. If constructed 
correctly this pressure will be less than the pressure around the carburator. In the 
case of the gasoline carburator this lowered pressure will suck fuel into the air 
stream. 

How can we do this with propane or natural gas?

The principal is the same. Use a gas pressure regulator set to a pressure below 
atmospheric pressure. When the engine is not running there will be no gas flowing as the 
pressure is not low enough. Start the engine and the pressure will be lowered and suck 
gas from the regulator. 

As with gasoline there needs to be the correct mixture of fuel to air. In the gas 
carburator make this adjustment by changing the regulator pressure and sive of the 
oriface in the venturie.

Gernerally the pressure regulators used in appliances are set to a positive pressure to 
allow gas to flow when the electric solonoid is activated. These regulators generally 
are easily adjusted to a lower negative pressure.

The carburature I made was constructed from copper water tubing components that were 
soldered togather. I used reducers to make the venturie. A hole was drilled in the side 
of the venturie to admit a smaller tube for the introduction of the gas. The end of this 
tube was cut at an angle. This angle is another way of adjusting the flow.

You need to size the components for your particular application and power requirements. 
Make the size of the tubing components you use similar to that of the gasoline versions. 
The gas tube, as a guess on my part, should be about 1/4 the diameter of the venturie.

This carburatur is so cheap to build that if any parts need to be changed one can start 
over with a new one. Nearly everything can be obtained at a well equiped hardware or 
plumbing store.


                                         | Air in from   |
                                         |  air cleaner  |
                                         |               |
            ||                            \             /
           /  \                            \           /
          /    \  Gas regulator             |         |
         |      |                           |         |
         |      |              ___          |         |
         |      |_______________|___________|_____    |
         |      |_______________X________________/    |
         |      |             Valve         |         |
         |      |                           |         |
         |      |                          /           \
          \    /                          /             \
           \  /                          | Fuel/Air to   |
            ||                           |  Engine       |
                                         |               |

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From Teresa.Keating@telos.org Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cdc2.cdc.net!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!winternet.com!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!telos1.telos.ca!express!org!telos!teresa.keating
From: Teresa.Keating@telos.org (Teresa Keating)
Date: 26 Jun 96 22:52:35 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plans
Message-ID: <657_9606262258@express.telos.org>
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 10

I'm looking for some information.  My husband used to run a metal manufacturing
business in Ontario, Canada.  Having been out of the business for several
years, the plans, dimensions, jigs, etc.  are all still here, ready to go.

Does this information/tools have any commercial value?  If so, where does one
start.

Any help would be appreciated.

TAK


From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!DHOLLY
From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to remove quill from Index mill?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 17:14:29 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
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Reply-To: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
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I have an old Index vertical mill (don't know the model number,
unless it's contained within the serial number 55 8246). I am
trying to remove the quill and can't figure out how to get it
out.

To remove the quill I have to remove the gear that meshes with
the quill's rack. Looks like to remove this gear I have to drive
out its shaft, but I can't figure out how to do this. I have
removed the power quill feed stuff on the left side. On the
right side is a lever feed mechanism which contains a deadly-
looking "clock spring"; I have this mechanism loose but haven't
been able to pull it completely off the casting that holds the quill.

The gear that drives the quill is about 1 3/8 inch wide and appears
to be made of two pieces joined face-to-face; one piece is about
1 inch wide and the other piece is about 3/8 inch wide. 

Any suggestions on how to get this thing apart?

                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From frank@newshost.dsea.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: More on diesel generators
Date: 27 Jun 1996 09:56:45 -0700
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America, Inc.
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A quick note on generators.  

I have looked into this for a while.  A diesel generator is the way to
go for long-term power and low maintenance.  When I buy a generator, it
will be a low-power diesel. Gasoline and fuel gas are harder to deal with
than heating oil.  The combination of a diesel generator and an oil-fired
hot-air furnace gives light, hot air and electricity.  Add a water pump
and small electric water heater and you have a very flexable setup that
takes up about 20 sqft of floor space and vents out one pipe.

There are two easy solutions.  Northern Hydraulics has just gotten into
the decent-quality diesel generator business.  Take a look.

Also, McMaster-Carr has very similar units, or perhaps it is just kits,
right in the catalog.  There is a bit of info there, and McMaster
generally does not sell junk.

-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From frank@newshost.dsea.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: More on welding with power supplies
Date: 27 Jun 1996 09:57:22 -0700
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America, Inc.
Lines: 22
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OK, it is clear that my Lamda power supplies are not what is needed for
MIG, TIG, arc, etc.

But, in addition to these power supplies, I do have about 1 ton of
isolation transformers.  These are very nice ones, with about 12 tap
points, and can do a 4:1 voltage reduction.  They weigh about 150 lbs
each.  And they are free.

Plus, I have a huge, very nice auto transformer, also for free.

Say I feed 220 into the autotrans, then step down 4:1.  Do I have an
adjustable-power AC arc welder?

I understand some of the safety concerns.  This is on my mind. But
this stuff is just sitting around......

-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!nobody
From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: welding stainless steel(s)
Date: 27 Jun 1996 18:53:21 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
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Hi,
	Anyone have any info on gas welding stainless steel? Is there a 
particular type stainless that is best to use, or a particular flux/rod
combination that is required?

Thanks,
Bill



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:37:33 GMT
Subject: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Lines: 38

Perhaps someone can help...

My son's bike is cracking at the ends of the front forks, where the
axle sits in the U-shaped slots - they are propagating from the
top of the "U". Before going off and buying a new set of forks (if I
can find any to fit, that is), I thought I'd have a go at TIG
welding the cracks.  If it works, fine, otherwise nothing is lost
by trying - and don't worry, they won't go on the road until I'm
REALLY sure that the welds are good! The forks are made of mild
steel tube, flattened and shaped in this area. 

My problem is, the cracks are dirty due to the oil and dirt from
the axle. In their current state there is no way that the weld will
be good, if it flows at all.  I don't want to "cut off and refit"
as there's quite a bit of metal remaining that will add to the
strength of the work if left alone.  It will also mean that I
won't need to do any special clamping to hold the surfaces together.

Can anyone suggest a way of cleaning out the crack sufficiently
well for TIG welding, using commonly available domestic materials.
By "domestic" I mean stuff found in a house or garage. For example,
I have methylated spirits (denatured alcohol with offensive
flavouring added), cellulose paint thinners, white spirit. Also
citric acid (used to "pickle" when silver-soldering brass and
copper) and boric acid (for removing rust). All the other things
you would expect to find!

Whatever process is suggested would have to involve dipping the
parts in jars, or similar - I have no access to exotic machinery
or industrial cleaning plant.



 





David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor oil?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:51:19 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <31d26f14.176078875@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <4qmpl9$pvu@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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The moving finger of gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) having
written:

>Thought I'd change the oil in my compressor, 

Compressor oil is cheaper than engine oil, as it doesn't need the
detergent & additive package.

Be careful where you buy it though. Like most oils, it's cheaper to
buy it in a gallon can from a commercial supplier than in a pint can
>from  a domestic retail shop. I get mine from the same motor factor
where I buy my fan belts and head gaskets.



From ece00@mfg.amdahl.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!decwrl!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!ogma.ccc.amdahl.com!netnews
From: ece00@mfg.amdahl.com (Earl C Edgerton)
Subject: Superchargers
Message-ID: <Dto1wL.6LJ@ccc.amdahl.com>
Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (Usenet Administration)
Reply-To: ece00@mfg.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:02:45 GMT
Lines: 12

Does anyone know if there are any plans available to build a supercharger (blower)
for automotive engines.  I have a Ford Flathead V8 and I would like to try 
fabricating a blower for it, similar in style to the ones that were built in the 
50's.  Maybe some of the "ol timers" (no offense) here had some experience during 
those "nostalgic" days.  I've seen some pictures of different blowers and they
look relatively simple in design (but so does a modern 6-71), but they want
an arm & a leg for one....I would appreciate any help.

Earl





From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need brazing pointers--A second question...
Message-ID: <1996Jun27.084915.23860@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 27 Jun 96 08:49:09 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4qmmni$5v6@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
 <4qnjpj$o22@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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In article <4qnjpj$o22@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, bernielama@aol.com (Bernielama) writes:
|>Thanks for the advice! Now, since I want to gain more knowledge about
|>metalworking in general, I have another question. What is the difference
|>between brazing and welding (and soldering, for that matter)? Is brazing
|>more of a surface joint and welding a deeper structural fusion?


You might consider getting the FAQ for this newsgroup and reading it.
It's available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal
directory, or via http://plains.uwyo.edu/~jimkirk

For example, question 21 (in section 4) says, in part --

     There sometimes seems a fine line between soldering (several types,
     at that), brazing, and welding.  Here we try to shed some light on
     soldering and brazing.

     The following was contributed by Tim Kirby around 3/3/93 when the
     newsgroup was discussing the "true meaning" of silver soldering and
     the distinction between hard and soft solder.

     : Can anyone remember the "official" difference between
     : Hard & Soft solders ?

     While browsing for something else entirely, I found my copy of

     'Model Locomotive and Marine Boilers'
     [Argus Press, 1988, ISBN 0-85242-923-1]
      by Martin Evans (well known in the Model Engineering field, at least in
     the UK) from which I have gratuitously (and without prejudice) stolen the
     following extract for your contemplation.  As an aside, this is a useful
     book for those interested in designing and building boilers.

     Chapter 3, page 55: Silver Soldering and Brazing

     Soldering and brazing are processes which involve the joining of metals
     by the addition of molten filler metal of substantially different
     composition, at temperatures well below their melting point.  An important
     difference between silver-soldering and brazing or welding is that the
     brazing alloy or filler material must be drawn by capillary forces right
     through the mating joint surfaces, and not merely deposited at the edges.

     Soft Solders are generally accepted as including the alloys of low melting
     point up to about 400 deg. C.  They are usually based on Tin or Lead with
     small additions of antimony and sometimes silver.

     Hard solders, or silver-solders, are those alloys suitable for soldering
     which have melting points from 400 deg. C. up to about 800 deg. C. (see
     BSI 1845/1964)
    [for those who don't understand that reference, BSI is the British
     Standards Institute, similar in function to (for example) ANSI.
     BSI 1845 probably details this stuff in excruciating detail ;-) ... Tim.]

     Brazing alloys are alloys suitable for brazing (sic) which have melting
     points from about 800 deg. C. up to about 1000 deg. C.

     It should however be understood that there is no definite line of
     demarcation between silver-solders and brazing alloys.  The former always
     contain a proportion of silver, while the brazing alloys generally contain
     copper, zinc and sometimes tin.  Brazing alloys containing copper and
     phosphorus are also available but these are not recommended for boiler
     work.

In contrast, I believe welding implies melting the edges being joined as well
as introducing filler material.

Jim


From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!wave.news.pipex.net!pipex!soap.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet
From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Putting a Thread on Sterling Silver Road
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:11:21 GMT
Organization: Tattoo Club of Great Britain
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Out of curiosity, shortly having to put a thread about 30mm long on some 
3mm & 4mm dia sterling silver, which would be best, to a cut thread or to 
roll the thread?

I am considering using a capstan lathe with a self releasing diehead.

Thanks      Lionel





From soule@maine.maine.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soule@gauss.umemat.maine.edu (Bill Soule)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Black Liquor
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:27:19 GMT
Organization: UMaine
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4qunan$1dnu@sol.caps.maine.edu>
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Re query from a Mr. Hall - Your e-mail address didn't work for me. 
 There  is a lot of study of black liquor at UMaine.  Contact 
Dr. Jos. Genco at genco@maine.maine.edu  
 
                      Bill Soule aka RRx - The Train Doctor - RRx


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:45:30 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <darylb-2706961549080001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com> <31D1DB6F.3B10@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <31D1DB6F.3B10@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> Dave Gingery authored a book (order from Lindsay) on the construction of a
> dividing head.  I've never looked ito it but suppose that 40 works out well 
> as to the number of holes needed in the index plates.
snip....

I think the 40:1 ratio was for the pitch of the leadscrew when doing
spirals (I could be wrong).
1/4" per turn of the leadscrew tied in with the 40. I think it made the
math easier. But most people never use a dividing head for this and so you
could use any ratio. If you use a standard ratio plates could be bought &
existing dividing tables used.

Are you making a universal head or just a semi universal?


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:21:34 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


If you don't care about the paint, let the fork end sit in a
boiling solution of trisodium phosphate (from your hardware store)
in water, for about 20 minutes.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <Dto9sM.4FG@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:53:10 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>,
alan anganes  <al@chelmsford.com> wrote:
>  What are the flaws in this brilliant idea? I can't be the first to come 
>up with this. Is there something magical about the 40:1 ratio used in a 
>standard head? I don't see why any other ratio would not work. I sort of 
>need a dividing head and am too poor/cheap to buy a real one. 

Lots of DH kits out there, everything from Gingery's book on making
a DH from plate stock and parts to Geo. Thomas' "Versatile Dividing
Head" design.

As to ratio - all a high ratio does is to improve the chances that
you'll get a match between a plate and the number of divisions that
you want.  Even a small ratio such as the 4:1 on my Hardinge DH can
do most divisions up to 360 with a reasonable selection of plates (of
course the 75 hole plate look more like air than a indexing plate).



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:02:14 GMT
Lines: 10

In article <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>,
ANNE B. WATSON <callanne@aztec.asu.edu> wrote:
>Guess I will just keep looking and if nothing shows up  will try the second 
>most valuable resource site    the public library.

What sort of thread form?  I believe that there's about 25 pages of 
this sort of information in _Machinery's Handbook_ covering most all
of the thread forms.  Metric is easiest to calculate, others a lot
harder.



From glenn@jetlink.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <31D2BC04.EAC@jetlink.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:51:16 +0000
From: Bill Marvel <glenn@jetlink.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net> <4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu> <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com> <31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <31c81c44.996490324@news.islandnet.com> <4qm9oo$8bj@crcnis3.unl.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30461 sci.engr.chem:16109

WILLIAM DAILEY wrote:
> 
> : So, in my mind, the conclusion is as follows:
> : 1) Never mess with anything that is under heavy pressure (such as a
> : tank of O2) unless you know what you are doing.
> : 2) Oxygen by itself is not pure evil despite what people say. Yes, it
> : will accelerate a fire but pure O2 at atmospheric pressure seems
> : pretty harmless by itself unless you combine it with fire.
> : 3) It never hurts to be extra careful when dealing with flammables.
> 
> : my $0.02 worth ... contradicting opinions welcomed.
> : Jens
> 
>      I must take exception to #2.  Pure oxygen at atmospheric pressure
> is essentially pure evil.  I have worked as an oxygen clean worker for
> several years...repairing oxygen generation (cryogenic &
> electrolytic), storage and distribution systems.  While in training i
> saw a film portraying a man that
> stepped into a pan of oxygen vapor (at atmospheric pressure) and only
> spots of blood were left.  He also caused 1/2 inch steel bulkheads to
> bow on this carrier.  I have routinely done maintenance on oxygen
> systems and it is a fact (not an opinion) that oxygen concentrations
> approaching 90% are extremely hazardous (cinderblock can autoignite).
> This is especially true in the prescence of organics.  I don't think
> using an oxy rig in the manner described in your message provides evidence
> to voice the points that you are making and i also think the
> conclusions are irresponsible.  Real experimental work has been done
> and it directly contradicts the amiable nature of a pure oxygen
> environment that you have eluded to.
> 
> willyAlso don't get oils around oxygen, It will ignite vialintly.


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:51:21 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 25
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-2706961554590001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4qq96j$suo@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <4qs6nd$nl3@news.sdd.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4qs6nd$nl3@news.sdd.hp.com>, wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William
Martin (Temp)) wrote:

> In article <4qq96j$suo@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert
Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> |> A friend told me today that he saw a new, American made taper
attachment for sale at Boeing 
> |> Surplus for $75, not a bad buy if you need one and are in the area.
Cheers Bob
> |> 
> 
>         What does it attach to?
> 
> Bill

The lathe!

Seriously, it attaches to the bed and has a dovetail slide which can be
pivoted to any taper angle. The cross slide is released from it's thread
and fixed to a slider on the taper attachments dovetail slide so that as
you move the carriage left and right the crossslide automatically follows
(in/out) the taper angle.

Cheers
Daryl


From frank@dsea.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.fibr.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!la-news1.digilink.net!newshost.dsea.com!usenet
From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill grinding
Date: 27 Jun 1996 23:12:50 GMT
Organization: dsea.com
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4qv4hi$3ja@server.eng.dsea.com>
References: <31d2f3ff.333840744@newsource.ihug.co.nz>
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To: geoff@ihug.co.nz
X-URL: news:31d2f3ff.333840744@newsource.ihug.co.nz


I've been working on a drill grinder gizmo.

I use a Jacobs 1/2" hand-tightening chuck from Northern Hydraulics, 
some 1/2" thick aluminum plate, two 1/2" oillite bushings from Home 
Depot, and a piece of 1/2 rod.  Total cost is low.

I've tried a few times, but have not yet been able to make
perfect or good-enough threading on the rod.  I get too much runout, 
but all my work has been by hand. I'll try again soon.

OTOH, I might just give up and buy a large, hard 1/2-Fine bolt and 
cut it so it fits.  This would also be cheap.

When I get it right, I'll post a few plans, as others have
requested.




From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!inn
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:51:21 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4qv0gt$ace@news.sdd.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdlge8.sdd.hp.com


<snip>


|> >         What does it attach to?
|> > 
|> > Bill
|> 
|> The lathe!
|> 
|> Seriously, it attaches to the bed and has a dovetail slide which can be
|> pivoted to any taper angle. The cross slide is released from it's thread
|> and fixed to a slider on the taper attachments dovetail slide so that as
|> you move the carriage left and right the crossslide automatically follows
|> (in/out) the taper angle.
|> 
|> Cheers
|> Daryl

Argh! I should have been a little clearer myself...what I "meant" to ask
was: to what "kind" of a lathe does it attach?

Bill



From stas@best.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!nntp1.best.com!shellx.best.com!not-for-mail
From: stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: [Q] nickel precipitate-hardening steels
Date: 27 Jun 1996 13:18:49 -0700
Organization: Best Internet Communications
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4quqb9$8mu@shellx.best.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: shellx.best.com


Hi folks,

I've recently read in a book (published in 1984) that maraging steels, while
exhibiting excellent strength and ductility (given the strength), performed
poorly when subjected to revesing load directions.

Has this problem been solved?  What's the current state of the art?

Thanks,
Stan


From frank@dsea.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!la-news1.digilink.net!newshost.dsea.com!usenet
From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Putting a Thread on Sterling Silver Road
Date: 27 Jun 1996 19:59:40 GMT
Organization: dsea.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4qup7c$1n5@server.eng.dsea.com>
References: <4qumcp$1fv@soap.news.pipex.net>
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My grandfather used to do so some sterling silver machining for
USN submarine parts.  Perhaps you are doing the same!

Anyway, all his sub parts were done on a lathe with a single
point cutting tool.




From geoff@ihug.co.nz Sun Jul  7 15:17:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!venus.sun.com!ames!waikato!newsource.ihug.co.nz!usenet
From: geoff@ihug.co.nz (G Merryweather)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: drill grinding
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:51:02 GMT
Organization: The Internet Group
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <31d2f3ff.333840744@newsource.ihug.co.nz>
Reply-To: geoff@ihug.co.nz
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-777.ihug.co.nz
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

anyone got some good plans or ideas for a cheap drill grinder or
attachment - something in the order of 10's of dollars rather than
hundreds...
Geoff


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need brazing pointers--A second question...
Message-ID: <1996Jun27.140150.23863@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 27 Jun 96 14:01:50 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4qmmni$5v6@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
 <1996Jun27.084915.23860@roper.uwyo.edu>
Distribution: world
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Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
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In article <1996Jun27.084915.23860@roper.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) writes:
|>You might consider getting the FAQ for this newsgroup and reading it.
|>It's available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal
|>directory, or via http://plains.uwyo.edu/~jimkirk
                                           ^^^^^^^^

I apparently typed without engaging brain; make that ~metal

Jim


From dougvg@sedona.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news
From: Doug Von Gausig <dougvg@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Joining two compressors
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:35:40 -0700
Organization: Bananas! Gifts, Inc.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <31D336EC.6447@sedona.net>
Reply-To: Doug Von Gausig <dougvg@sedona.net>
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Is it a good idea, and is there anything to be gained by joining two 5hp 
60-gallon compressors together?

If it does make sense, what should I be careful about in joining them?

Doug


From Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com Sun Jul  7 15:17:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!mongol.sasknet.sk.ca!news@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca
From: Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 27 Jun 1996 22:18:25 GMT
Organization: Develcon Electronics Ltd.
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <4qv1bh$ldc@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <31D294CB.3E36@ix.netcom.com>
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In article <31D294CB.3E36@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com says...
>
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>--------------7F7837374D44
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>ANNE B. WATSON wrote:
>> 
>> >
>> >Get a table of tapping drill sizes - but NOT an industrial one.
>> >Industrial users have the technology to make clean threads in tight
>> >holes (i.e. machines, tapping jigs, etc.). They often aim to get
>> >up to 80% thread engagement.
>> 
>> Funny, I just jumped in here looking for a WWW source for tapping drill
>> sizes and this was the first message.
>> 
>> I tried a search on Yahoo,  nada   guess there are not any engineers with
>> web sites.
>> 
>> Guess I will just keep looking and if nothing shows up  will try the second
>> most valuable resource site    the public library.
>> Anne
>> --
>
>I think I got a table with some tool or a drill set at Sears.  
>Maybe a drill sharpening gadget.  Sometimes there is a table in a
>drill index (box).

I seem to get tap drill info all the time.  In the back of the MSC catalog
for example.  I have several tables with columns for :

	decimal inch
	fractional inch
	millimeter
	number/letter drill sizes
	thread size

Since I only have fractional inch drills I just go to the next size up. This
has produced reasonable threads for #10 and 1/4" screws,  but they are less
than the 75% (?) thread that tap drills aim for.

dave



From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp034-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:42:25 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <alshinn-2706961842250001@ppp034-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>, callanne@aztec.asu.edu (ANNE B.
WATSON) wrote:

> >
> >Get a table of tapping drill sizes - but NOT an industrial one. 
> >Industrial users have the technology to make clean threads in tight
> >holes (i.e. machines, tapping jigs, etc.). They often aim to get
> >up to 80% thread engagement.
> 
> Funny, I just jumped in here looking for a WWW source for tapping drill
> sizes and this was the first message.
> 
> I tried a search on Yahoo,  nada   guess there are not any engineers with
> web sites.
> 
> Guess I will just keep looking and if nothing shows up  will try the second 
> most valuable resource site    the public library.
> Anne
> -- 

Anne:
When you find it, let us know ---I need (and can't find) the tap drill for
a 4-32.


From billg63475@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC upgrade?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 05:01:15 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 35
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

Sounds like a pretty good candidate to me! I guess that the first question
would be concerning the amount of monet that you want to spend on this
project. If money is  no object, then there are several CNC retrofit
packages available to drive servos starting at about $11,000.00 for the
control plus motors, encoders and installation.

But if you are like most of the rest of us, MONEY is probably one of your
biggest concerns.  You should give the guys at AhHa a call, they have a
CNC retrofit kit that is open loop stepper based, and they have a model
capable of driving large stepper motors (>2300 oz in) at 12 amps per
phase.You can buy everything from them, or just the control if you can
find some used motors somewhere as new motors are quite expensive.

I have several machines that are using there software and I also have a
couple of there hardware packages.

I just recently purchased a Wells Index CNC 700 seriec CNC machine and
have scrapped out the original control and have replaced it with a 12 amp
AhHa microstepping package. I have yet to get the garage fully organized
to take delivery of the machine and the wife is getting tired of looking
at that black box THING on the living room floor! But the garage project
is nearing completion and I am anxious to get this heavy IRON up and
running. It will definitely take some getting used to, the largest machine
I have thus far only weights about 250#.


The phone number for the folks at AhHa is:

612-641-1797



Bill Griffin
 



From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp034-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB small milling mach.
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:55:06 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 2
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp034-sf2.sirius.com
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

I am in need of a not too expecsive, small vertical milling machine (used)
in Northern California.


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!bolt.Lakeheadu.Ca!m44
From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does a carbon arc damage an electric welder ?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 23:06:04 GMT
Organization: Lakehead University
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4qv433$493@bolt.Lakeheadu.Ca>
References: <4qqpnt$fq3@news.knoware.nl>
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4qqpnt$fq3@news.knoware.nl>,
   C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>A friend of mine told that making carbon arcs may damage an 
>electric welder. It's a 150 Amps one with 48 Volts AC 
>secondary with a thermal circuitbreaker

>Any opinion or advice on this ?

Your friend has been reading Grim's fables.

An arc is an arc. If it's the arc you expect between the + 
and the - terminals, it won't do any damage to the machine. 
After all, the machine is made to make arcs... and as long 
as the machine is protected by the thermal overload switch 
there is no problem.

When I arc-air, I use 400 amp machines. 550V three phase 
power. If carbon arcs damaged machines, I'd have a long 
trail of $5,000.00 machines behind me, eh?


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!nntp.portal.ca!newsfeed.direct.ca!op.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Superchargers
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 23:32:46 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <blake-2706962333320001@206.84.2.72>
References: <Dto1wL.6LJ@ccc.amdahl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-23.ncweb.com

In article <Dto1wL.6LJ@ccc.amdahl.com>, ece00@mfg.amdahl.com wrote:

}Does anyone know if there are any plans available to build a supercharger
(blower)
}for automotive engines.  I have a Ford Flathead V8 and I would like to try 
}fabricating a blower for it, similar in style to the ones that were built
in the 
}50's.  Maybe some of the "ol timers" (no offense) here had some
experience during 
}those "nostalgic" days.  I've seen some pictures of different blowers and they
}look relatively simple in design (but so does a modern 6-71), but they want
}an arm & a leg for one....I would appreciate any help.
}
}Earl

Didn't they use a lot of Paxton centrifugal blowers?  I believe they are
still available.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From jim111@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:07:14 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31D34C62.3B31@ix.netcom.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <alshinn-2706961842250001@ppp034-sf2.sirius.com>
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Alan Shinn wrote:
> 
> In article <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu>, callanne@aztec.asu.edu (ANNE B.

 When you find it, let us know ---I need (and can't find) the tap drill 
for
> a 4-32.
outside dia. .1120
pitch dia..0917
root dia..0714
TAP DRILL #45 .082 dia. 75%thd

                           jim111@ix.netcom.com
                           Broken Tap extraction
                           Downey Ca.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cbgw2.att.com!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill grinding
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:32:45 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <31D3525D.5A9A@ix.netcom.com>
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To: geoff@ihug.co.nz
CC: utjp04a@Prodigy.com

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------7A2A64651629
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

G Merryweather wrote:
> 
> anyone got some good plans or ideas for a cheap drill grinder or
> attachment - something in the order of 10's of dollars rather than
> hundreds...
> Geoff


Many folks sell a drill grinding attachment, Sears, General, Travers,
many others also.  Price runs about $15-20 I think...

They can be difficult to adjust properly.  Several magazin articles
have offered adjustment solutions.  Frank McLean, in "The Shop Wisdom
of Frank McLean" (Village Press), page 14, has a dandy.

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------7A2A64651629
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="VILLAGE PRESS.txt"

VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------7A2A64651629--



From 102563.13@CompuServe.COM Sun Jul  7 15:17:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Paul Marucci <102563.13@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking For: 12" Logan Tailstock
Date: 28 Jun 1996 03:32:05 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4qvjnl$q3l$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
References: <31CEA601.183@iac.net>

Contact Scott Logan at Logan Actuator Co. in Chicago at 
312-736-7500. They have all the Logan replacement/upgrade parts 
you would ever want, and  are great to  do business with.
Good hunting.
Paul

-- 
PM


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welding stainless steel(s)
Date: 28 Jun 1996 01:38:33 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 34
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <4qulb1$8ht@news.sdd.hp.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp)) asked about welding Stainless
Steel with a gas torch :

I used to use a lot of stainless rod to weld steel with Oxy-acet. All I
ever used was a carburizing flame. Old-timers I talked to, said there used
to be a flux available for gas welding stainless. I found a flux that was
supposed to prevent nickle oxide buildup, but it never seemed to do much.
I liked using stainless filler rod gas welding steel for the same reason
that I use stainless and inconnel filler when TIG welding steel.
The nickle melts at a lower temp than the steel so it flows almost like
brazing.
You should be careful not to keep the weld at red heat for too long or it
will become brittle, also remeber to use either 308L or 316L . The L means
low carbon and helps to prevent the formation of carbides in the weld.
308LSS filler is used on 304SS base metal.
316LSS filler is used on 316SS base metal.
316 has a little better corrosion resistance, and 304 is more maleable.

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From ulfbe@ikp.liu.se Sun Jul  7 15:17:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!nntp.uio.no!news.kth.se!news.ifm.liu.se!usenet
From: Ulf Bengtsson <ulfbe@ikp.liu.se>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 06:50:26 +0000
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <31D380B2.6233@ikp.liu.se>
References: <31D0D2AE.1531@ikp.liu.se> <4qsrrn$q7b@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
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To: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>

Thanks for the information Chuck. 

For those of you who are not familiar with the designs of Mr. Thomas have a look at 
http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/hemingway/

Here you can find another book by Mr. Thomas: Boring Tools 

Ulf B


From dotto@micron.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news1.best.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.micron.net!news
From: dotto <dotto@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC upgrade?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 06:20:07 GMT
Organization: Micron Internet Services
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"Lee B. Marshall" <lmarshal@scruznet.com> wrote:
>
> I've the opportunity to purchase a Gorton #230  ball screw vertical mill 
> with hand cranks and  Tru-Trace hydraulic tracer on all 3 axis for 
> $1500. It is is pretty good shape except for the tracer valve which is 
> going to be inordinately expensive to repair. Knowing a little about 
> chasing a hydraulic problem down to it's last leak, it seems to me that 
> I might have a likely candidate for CNC conversion.
> The lead screws are driven by hydraulic motors and timing belts. Not 
> having servo motors to begin with may blow this project out of the 
> water. Any comments?
> 
> Thanks to all


You can give the guys a AhHa Design Group a call for information
on steper motor systems.
I just did a 2 axis conv. on my Bridgeport clone mill and am having
a blast with it. Now I'm spending my time trying to get a handle
on the Bob Cad/Cam software.

Regards: Dave Otto


From soltherm@cdsnet.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soltherm@cdsnet.net (Douglas S. Gonder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sterling Question
Date: 28 Jun 1996 06:09:37 GMT
Organization: International Solar Collectors , Inc.
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Does anybody know if a Sterling runs purely on the temperature
difference between the hot and cold sides?. Would a steam jacket
around same at a lower temperature but with a constant flow (<BTU's?)
have the same effect.

sneak preview: http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm



From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: 28 Jun 1996 03:37:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) asked about how to
prep a crack in a bike frame before TIG welding :

Try a super solvent, like Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I know it is really nasty
stuff, but it will disolve any dirt and grease.
On a safer note you could try one of the new citrus cleasers.
I use the ZEP citrus cleaner. It is incredibly powerful, and safe.

On a related note, I would recommend using either Inconnel or Stainless
steel as filler for the TIG weld. I almost never use regular steel filler
anymore. I use Inconnel 82 and 316L SS for most of my mild steel welds.
They also work pretty well for cast iron to steel welds. They are both
stronger and more corosion resistant. They are also less prone to cracking
>from  contamination. Since they melt at a lower temp than steel , it is
almost akin to brazing.

Also try washing it with a propane torch after cleaning to burn off any
traces.

Best of luck

@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Jul  7 15:17:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!news.cerf.net!farallon.farallon.com!nntp2.cerf.net!pelican.com!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Message-ID: <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 07:06:26 GMT
Lines: 28

onm010@uni-essen.de (Dr. Stefan P. Mueller) writes:

>In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
>writes:
>|>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
>|>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range...

>This thread got me interested and I found the folowing URL on the web:

>   http://www.worldway.com/mall/savoy.html

>It looks like SAVOY SCIENTIFIC,  P.O. Box 1398, Dept. I,  SANTA MONICA, CA
>90406 is selling plans for a jet engine for 15$

>Stefan

>-- 
>Dr. Stefan P. Mueller, Nuklearmedizin, Universitaetsklinikum, Essen,
> e-mail: onm010@uni-essen.de, phone: <49> 201/ 723-4179, FAX: -5964


and they have been doing so since my high school days (in Santa
Monica, class of '63)

I have second hand information of one being built...
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill grinding
Date: 28 Jun 1996 11:38:46 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <09960528063753.OUI08.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <31d2f3ff.333840744@newsource.ihug.co.nz> <4qv4hi$3ja@server.eng.dsea.com>
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In article <4qv4hi$3ja@server.eng.dsea.com>, From frank 
<frank@dsea.com>, the following was written:
> OTOH, I might just give up and buy a large, hard 1/2-Fine bolt and 
> cut it so it fits.  This would also be cheap.

Why not get some 1/2-20 threaded rod?  This is readily available from
many sources, including Metal Buyers Mart, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc.  

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From myzr@ldl.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: Jack <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 17:14:18 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <31D1D25A.565A@ldl.net>
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Max ben-Aaron wrote:
> 
> High their:
> 
> I have used one to make a chuck stop for my lathe.  The steel was
> harder than the hobs of hell.
> 
> I don't know for sure but I think that some valves are hollow and are
> filled with something noxious under pressure, so it behoves you to be
> careful.
> 
> Max ben-Aaron
> ....Yep, Uhuh, and Yessir!  Ford truck valves as used in the 330-370-391 
engines are sodium-filled; this stuff is *highly* unstable, 
unpredictable, dangerous; all that good stuff....
> =======================================================================
> 
> In <raybre-2406961803160001@slgos1p23.ozemail.com.au>
> raybre@ozemail.com.au (Ray Breakwell) writes:
> >
> >
> >G'day....
> >
> >Found a bucket of car engine exhaust and intake valves at the scrap
> yard.
> >Too good to waste, eh? Great steel!
> >
> >What IS this steel that valves are made ?
> >
> >How does it handle forging/annealing/re-hardening/re-tempering/
> machining?
> >
> >As I said above, too good to waste.  So what have some of you used
> engine
> >valves for?
> >
> >ANY comments on the above will be welcomed....either in this group or
> by email.
> >
> >
> >....-Ray.  <  raybre@ozemail.com.au  >
> >
> >--
> >" ...Perfect speed..is being there. " ...... Chiang.
> >
> >"..The gull sees farthest who flies highest." ....... Sully.



From wwebster@nortel.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 07:45:47 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

In article <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>,
barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) wrote:

> onm010@uni-essen.de (Dr. Stefan P. Mueller) writes:
> 
> >In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
> >writes:
> >|>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
> >|>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range...
> 
> >This thread got me interested and I found the folowing URL on the web:
> 
> >   http://www.worldway.com/mall/savoy.html
> 
> >It looks like SAVOY SCIENTIFIC,  P.O. Box 1398, Dept. I,  SANTA MONICA, CA
> >90406 is selling plans for a jet engine for 15$
> 
> and they have been doing so since my high school days (in Santa
> Monica, class of '63)
> 

Yup.  And I bought those plans 25 years ago for $10.  It was advertised
back then just about the same way as now.  The ad said it could be built
for under $100.  Yeah, right!  The cost of the specified nuts and bolts
would cost over $100 at that time.  Not to mention the body tube!  I've
yet to find anybody who could build one and get it working properly.  As
the saying goes, "you get what you pay for".

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!latcha
From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:45:22 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960628083828.16604A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4qvsv1$9r@news.chatlink.com>
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In-Reply-To: <4qvsv1$9r@news.chatlink.com> 

Yes, a Stirling (correct spelling...) engine works due the temperature
difference between the hot and cold sections of the engine.  The heat can
be supplied any way you want - direct flame, steam, solar heat, etc. or
even removed by cooling the cold end.  It is not clear to me where your
steam jacket would go, but as long as there is a hot end and a cold end,
the engine should work.  How well it runs and how much power is available
is a function of many variables, the most important being the temperature
difference between the two extremes and the efficiency of the heat
transfer into and out of the working fluid... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 28 Jun 1996, Douglas S. Gonder wrote:

> Does anybody know if a Sterling runs purely on the temperature
> difference between the hot and cold sides?. Would a steam jacket
> around same at a lower temperature but with a constant flow (<BTU's?)
> have the same effect.
> 
> sneak preview: http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm
> 
> 
> 


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 13:32:00 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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r
>What sort of thread form?  I believe that there's about 25 pages of 
>this sort of information in _Machinery's Handbook_ covering most all
>of the thread forms.  Metric is easiest to calculate, others a lot
>harder.
>


I have always assumed that for 100 percent engagement, the tap drill is equal to the 
minor diameter; for zero percent engagement, it is equal to the major diameter, and 
every other percent engagement it is in between and directly proportional to the 
difference in major and minor diamters: e,g, for 50 % engagement, the tap drill is 
minor diameter plus 50% percent of the difference between the major and minor 
diameters. Is it more complicated that this?

Roger Weppelman



From jlovallo@mixcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What is a muller?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 13:57:10 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
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Message-ID: <4r0obm$pmu@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial43-4.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

I am just getting into aluminum castings and maybe brass.  I bought some Petrobond
binder for the foundry sand and see that they say you should mix it in a "muller".  How
do they work and is there any work-around ? (obviously, I don't have one)!

John Lovallo



From cwall@swri.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 28 Jun 1996 14:47:45 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87>
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In article <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87>, wwebster@nortel.ca says...

>Yup.  And I bought those plans 25 years ago for $10.  It was advertised
>back then just about the same way as now.  The ad said it could be built
>for under $100.  Yeah, right!  The cost of the specified nuts and bolts
>would cost over $100 at that time.  Not to mention the body tube!  I've
>yet to find anybody who could build one and get it working properly.  As
>the saying goes, "you get what you pay for".



    I also have purchased the Savoy jet engine plans (a couple of times, 
    in fact- the first time was about 1965) and haven't moved on it- though
    I did hear about a kid that built a *1/3* sized version for a science
    fair project!  I think it required some additives to the kerosene to get
    it to run, but supposedly it did.

    I think the engine would be most attractive if it was used as a fanjet 
    core, since the engine apparently splits it's effective output between 
    exhaust thrust and spindle torque.  I believe the original engine was 
    actually flown as a turboprop; a good front fan and duct arrangement 
    might well get you a couple hundred pounds of static thrust.

    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells; 
    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....

    I think the engine has merit.  I'd love to build a jet homebuilt aircraft,
    but the only engines I see that are remotely suitable are the Gluhareff
    propane pressure jets (*DON"T* confuse these with ramjets or pulsejets),
    which have excellent performance but require a pressurized propane tank
    (and *NO*, they will not work with any other fuel).  The Savoy engine
    would let you fuel up at any airport that services jets, and it would be
    a true advance if these engines were made available in a decent form.


    Craig Wall  



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:11:48 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com>
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To: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------2F5711B8577
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Roger M Weppelman wrote:
> 
> r
> >What sort of thread form?  I believe that there's about 25 pages of
> >this sort of information in _Machinery's Handbook_ covering most all
> >of the thread forms.  Metric is easiest to calculate, others a lot
> >harder.
> >
> 
> I have always assumed that for 100 percent engagement, the tap drill is equal to the
> minor diameter; for zero percent engagement, it is equal to the major diameter, and
> every other percent engagement it is in between and directly proportional to the
> difference in major and minor diamters: e,g, for 50 % engagement, the tap drill is
> minor diameter plus 50% percent of the difference between the major and minor
> diameters. Is it more complicated that this?
> 
> Roger Weppelman

Sounds pretty reasonable to me.
Frank McLean gives a formula in his writings.
Also how diameter and machine screw sizes corelate.

Paul in AJ AZ

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Tap Drill calculations
Per Frank McLean
The Shop Wisdom of Frank McLean (Village Press)

TD  = Tap drill diameter
SD  = Screw diameter
TPI = Threads per inch

TD = SD - 1/TPI

	Ex.  #6 screw diameter = .138 = (major diameter)
		where TPI = 32 

		.138 - 1/32   =
	      = .138 - .031   =
	      = .107
		
		#36 is .1065" dia

To find screw diameter (major diameter) of a machine screw
multiply the machine screw number by .013.  Add the product
to .060".

	Ex.	(#6 X .013) + .06 =
		= .078 + .06  = 
		= 0.138" (major diameter)

Easier to get a table.

Paul in AJ AZ





--------------2F5711B8577
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="VILLAGE PRESS.txt"

VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------2F5711B8577--



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:32:09 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Douglas S. Gonder wrote:
> 
> Does anybody know if a Sterling runs purely on the temperature
> difference between the hot and cold sides?. Would a steam jacket
> around same at a lower temperature but with a constant flow (<BTU's?)
> have the same effect.
> 
> sneak preview: http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm

Village Press has a  couple of books on Stirling Engines (See attached).
Also Bailey has books and videos onStirling and hot air engines.

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------35767B202D52
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BAILEY.txt"

Metalworking Books and Videos

BAILEY CRAFTSMAN SUPPLY

How to videos - Lathe - Mill- Casting (Gingery)
	Stirling Engines
		(Not Hollywood quality but interesting - PP)

Books - Gingery's Charcoal Foundry and others.
	(Great series)

Listing $1 (refundable w/order - stick a buck in an envelope)
	


Phone:  1-314-642-5998
FAX:    1-314-642-2936


--------------35767B202D52
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="VILLAGE PRESS.txt"

VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------35767B202D52
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="LINDSAY.txt"

Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------35767B202D52--



From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!uunet!inXS.uu.net!noc.nyx.net!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: 28 Jun 1996 09:29:33 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4r0tot$brd@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

>djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) asked about how to
>prep a crack in a bike frame before TIG welding :
>
>Try a super solvent, like Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I know it is really nasty
>stuff, but it will disolve any dirt and grease.
>On a safer note you could try one of the new citrus cleasers.
>I use the ZEP citrus cleaner. It is incredibly powerful, and safe.


Have you given any consideration to opening up the crack with a hacksaw?  
Not seing the crack, I can't get a feel for whether this would be 
practical/desireable but I often find that "V"ing out or opening up 
allows better cleaning and 100% penetration although I doubt penetration 
will be a problem on a bicycle.

rhg


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!uunet!inXS.uu.net!noc.nyx.net!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does a carbon arc damage an electric welder ?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 09:33:39 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4r0u0j$c0n@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <4qqpnt$fq3@news.knoware.nl> <4qv433$493@bolt.Lakeheadu.Ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

An arc is an arc.  Where you can get into trouble is on the duty cycle.  
In stick welding, setup and rod changes will usually keep you within the 
duty cycle without paying any direct attention to it.  With a twin carbon 
arc it's pretty easy to go way beyond the duty cycle on a light duty 
welder.  You should pay attention to how long you let the arc run and 
then let the welder rest.

rhg

A $5,000 machine would be likely to have a 100% duty cycle.

>>A friend of mine told that making carbon arcs may damage an 
>>electric welder. It's a 150 Amps one with 48 Volts AC 
>>secondary with a thermal circuitbreaker
>
>>Any opinion or advice on this ?
>
>Your friend has been reading Grim's fables.
>
>An arc is an arc. If it's the arc you expect between the + 
>and the - terminals, it won't do any damage to the machine. 
>After all, the machine is made to make arcs... and as long 
>as the machine is protected by the thermal overload switch 
>there is no problem.
>
>When I arc-air, I use 400 amp machines. 550V three phase 
>power. If carbon arcs damaged machines, I'd have a long 
>trail of $5,000.00 machines behind me, eh?




From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmiths.com (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does a carbon arc damage an electric welder ?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 14:16:04 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <31d3e35a.9762144@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <4qqpnt$fq3@news.knoware.nl>
Reply-To: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
NNTP-Posting-Host: codesmth.demon.co.uk
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X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

The moving finger of C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> having written:

>A friend of mine told that making carbon arcs may damage an electric welder.

This has been a problem in the past, but it's not a biggie.

Many smaller arc welders are only rated for intermittent use. If
you're stick welding, you'll naturally tend to work in a rather
intermittent style. If you're using a carbon arc torch for brazing or
metal-bashing work, you might have the arc struck for a longer
continuous period and thus exceed the limits of the welder.

It used to be a problem with the first "domestic" arc welders in the
'70s, particularly that little round one on the UK market (whose brand
name I've forgotten). Nowadays they're better made and generally well
protected with thermal cutouts.

I'd not use a welder without some fan cooling. Surplus computer fans
are cheap & easily available - bolt a couple on the side and get some
cold air moving.



From lairb@coastalta.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uuneo.neosoft.com!news.uh.edu!lurch.sccsi.com!news.sccsi.com!lairb
From: lairb@coastalta.com (Bill Laird)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Smithy????
Date: 28 Jun 1996 18:39:19 GMT
Organization: Houston Supernet& Tulsa Supernet
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4r18sn$aev@lurch.sccsi.com>
References: <cjohnson.15.00925D26@qco.qco.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hstnta4.coastalta.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Carl Johnson (cjohnson@qco.qco.com) wrote:
: Can anyone offer any opinions on the Smithy 3-in-1 tool. It looks like a good 
: tool for small projects but I dont know of anyone who has one.  

<remainder of post deleted>

I too am looking for opinions on the Smithy.  I recently wrote for their
sales literature and they responded promptly.  They sent several pieces of
literature including some good color pictures of the overall machine and
close ups of mill, drill, and turn operations.  From the photos the machine
looks to be of higher quality than the Harbor Freight variety, although
they state Smithy is made in China.  Their literature indicates a strong
customer service department.

Anyone with any experiences with Smithy, I would be very interested in
comments regarding both the machine and the company.

TIA

Bill Laird
Houston, Texas



From lairb@coastalta.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uuneo.neosoft.com!news.uh.edu!lurch.sccsi.com!news.sccsi.com!lairb
From: lairb@coastalta.com (Bill Laird)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where's the FAQ?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 18:42:08 GMT
Organization: Houston Supernet& Tulsa Supernet
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4r1920$aev@lurch.sccsi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hstnta4.coastalta.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I am new to this newsgroup and would like to know if there is a FAQ.
If in fact a FAQ exists, where could I find it?

TIA

Bill Laird
Houston, TX



From fabnet@mail.cei.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!realtime.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!ren.cei.net!usenet
From: FabNet <fabnet@mail.cei.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 09:01:38 -0500
Organization: fabnet
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <31D3E5C2.5BF3@mail.cei.net>
References: <657_9606262258@express.telos.org>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01Gold (Win95; I)

First try to protect yourself. There are alot of people who would take advantage
of your situation.
If there are alot of machines left then you should have them appraised by reputable
machine dealer. If all you have is blue prints, drawings and jigs, you will have to find 
someone with that specific need. What type of manufacturing was he doing? What type of
parts was he making? Who was he making them for? Maybe they can help, or maybe they 
will purchase what is left.
I hope this helped.
If you need more help just post another reply or e-mail me, I will be glad to help.
Although I don't have any purchasing power I can give some good pointers.

c ya
andy


Teresa Keating wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for some information.  My husband used to run a metal manufacturing
> business in Ontario, Canada.  Having been out of the business for several
> years, the plans, dimensions, jigs, etc.  are all still here, ready to go.
> 
> Does this information/tools have any commercial value?  If so, where does one
> start.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> TAK


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!noc.nyx.net!nyx.cs.du.edu!not-for-mail
From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: 28 Jun 1996 09:10:53 -0600
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 76
Message-ID: <4r0slt$b43@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C9BEA1.4D3C@ballard.ca.boeing.com> <4qh617$eua@nonews.col.hp.com> <31CD653B.3DDD@pclink.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.rec.camping:4167 misc.forsale.non-computer:37925 rec.crafts.metalworking:30500 rec.outdoors.rv-travel:13181 sci.energy:51642

Beautiful.  Thanks very much for sharing this info.  

rhg


>This is just an overview on how it is done. I did it once to a VW engine.
> 
>Note I will refere to a gas as gas and gasoline as gasoline.
>
>All carburators have venturies. This is a narrow portion in the flow of air as it passes 
>through a pipe. When flowing through the venturie the pressure goes down. If constructed 
>correctly this pressure will be less than the pressure around the carburator. In the 
>case of the gasoline carburator this lowered pressure will suck fuel into the air 
>stream. 
>
>How can we do this with propane or natural gas?
>
>The principal is the same. Use a gas pressure regulator set to a pressure below 
>atmospheric pressure. When the engine is not running there will be no gas flowing as the 
>pressure is not low enough. Start the engine and the pressure will be lowered and suck 
>gas from the regulator. 
>
>As with gasoline there needs to be the correct mixture of fuel to air. In the gas 
>carburator make this adjustment by changing the regulator pressure and sive of the 
>oriface in the venturie.
>
>Gernerally the pressure regulators used in appliances are set to a positive pressure to 
>allow gas to flow when the electric solonoid is activated. These regulators generally 
>are easily adjusted to a lower negative pressure.
>
>The carburature I made was constructed from copper water tubing components that were 
>soldered togather. I used reducers to make the venturie. A hole was drilled in the side 
>of the venturie to admit a smaller tube for the introduction of the gas. The end of this 
>tube was cut at an angle. This angle is another way of adjusting the flow.
>
>You need to size the components for your particular application and power requirements. 
>Make the size of the tubing components you use similar to that of the gasoline versions. 
>The gas tube, as a guess on my part, should be about 1/4 the diameter of the venturie.
>
>This carburatur is so cheap to build that if any parts need to be changed one can start 
>over with a new one. Nearly everything can be obtained at a well equiped hardware or 
>plumbing store.
>
>
>                                         | Air in from   |
>                                         |  air cleaner  |
>                                         |               |
>            ||                            \             /
>           /  \                            \           /
>          /    \  Gas regulator             |         |
>         |      |                           |         |
>         |      |              ___          |         |
>         |      |_______________|___________|_____    |
>         |      |_______________X________________/    |
>         |      |             Valve         |         |
>         |      |                           |         |
>         |      |                          /           \
>          \    /                          /             \
>           \  /                          | Fuel/Air to   |
>            ||                           |  Engine       |
>                                         |               |
>
>-- 
>CUL8ER
>
>Duane C. Johnson
>WA0VBE
>Red Rock Energy
>1825 Florence St.
>White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
>redrok@pclink.com
>dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/
>




From billg63475@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB small milling mach.
Date: 28 Jun 1996 11:08:49 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 19
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4r0si1$sbh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <alshinn-2706961855060001@ppp034-sf2.sirius.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

In article <alshinn-2706961855060001@ppp034-sf2.sirius.com>,
alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) writes:

>I am in need of a not too expecsive, small vertical milling machine
(used)
>in Northern California.
>
>

In the Los Angeles Recycler there is an add for a Clausing Micro Mill and
a baby Bridgeport.

The number is:

310-941-7610

Good Luck

Bill


From lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu!lesiak
From: lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 15:20:49 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu

I am having difficulty locating a tap and die for cutting acme threads.
I realize that most acme threads are cut on the lathe, but I find it hard to
believe that some specialty supplier does not sell a tap and die for
them.  Anyone have any pointers?

A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?

Chris Lesiak
lesiak@anisette.age.uiuc.edu


From ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.mindspring.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.island.net!vertex.tor.hookup.net!apollo.isisnet.com!ccn.cs.dal.ca!ac258
From: ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source of thin spring steel
Date: 27 Jun 1996 20:52:12 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4qus9s$2nb@apollo.isisnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccn.cs.dal.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I am looking for a source of small diameter spring steel similar to what 
would be in the thing they use for fencing which I think is called a foil.

What I want this for is as a probe to push down into wet sand several 
feet to try and locate a shipwreck.  In another news group I received the 
information that a "fleurette" would be a useful way to probe.  It turns 
out that this is that long slim but springy piece of steel.  I have been 
using a 1/2" dia. steel rod with a manual drop hammer on the shaft.  It 
works but the smaller the diameter the easier to penetrate.

I only need two pieces about five feet long.  Does anyone know where to 
obtain such steel.  I would appreciate an e-mail message to the address 
below.

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 08:49:13 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4r0utp$8vg@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <4r0obm$pmu@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]



	--All the foundries I've been in (one) have used cement mixers...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Words are nothing 	
	COMING SOON		:	Actions are everything...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for magnesium casting
Date: 28 Jun 1996 08:46:56 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4r0upg$8dd@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <NEWTNews.835890415.13537.elop9@dialup.netvision.net.il>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]



	--Look in the ThomCat: there's a section for that.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Words are nothing 	
	COMING SOON		:	Actions are everything...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:43:26 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 70
Message-ID: <31D3FD9E.121@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4r0obm$pmu@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az5-19.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------77F145D13C47"
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jun 28 10:42:22 AM CDT 1996
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To: jlovallo@mixcom.com

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------77F145D13C47
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jlovallo@mixcom.com wrote:
> 
> I am just getting into aluminum castings and maybe brass.  I bought some Petrobond
> binder for the foundry sand and see that they say you should mix it in a "muller".  How
> do they work and is there any work-around ? (obviously, I don't have one)!
> 
> John Lovallo

Check out one of Scott Logans postings.  Get on his Web pages and look for a
link to Mr. Winston Harness.  Put Harness's page in your bookmark-real nice
pages...

Of course you should look into Dave Gingery's series.  Get a book catalog
>from  Bailey and one from Lindsay (Lindsay is online).

Good Luck

Paul ion AJ AZ

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Metalworking Books and Videos

BAILEY CRAFTSMAN SUPPLY

How to videos - Lathe - Mill- Casting (Gingery)
	Stirling Engines
		(Not Hollywood quality but interesting - PP)

Books - Gingery's Charcoal Foundry and others.
	(Great series)

Listing $1 (refundable w/order - stick a buck in an envelope)
	


Phone:  1-314-642-5998
FAX:    1-314-642-2936


--------------77F145D13C47
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Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------77F145D13C47--



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where's the FAQ?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:45:15 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Bill Laird <lairb@coastalta.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Bill Laird wrote:
> 
> I am new to this newsgroup and would like to know if there is a FAQ.
> If in fact a FAQ exists, where could I find it?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Bill Laird
> Houston, TX

Here's the FAQ.

Village Press puts out some great literature..

Paul in AJ AZ

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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
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VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------7E6A7A197A2E--



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:49:43 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 55
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To: Chris Lesiak <lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu>

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Chris Lesiak wrote:
> 
> I am having difficulty locating a tap and die for cutting acme threads.
> I realize that most acme threads are cut on the lathe, but I find it hard to
> believe that some specialty supplier does not sell a tap and die for
> them.  Anyone have any pointers?
> 
> A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
> on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?
> 
> Chris Lesiak
> lesiak@anisette.age.uiuc.edu

Try calling MSC

Also check the FAQ

Paul in AJ AZ

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Supplies, tools, etc.

MSC Industrial Supply Co.
Phone: 1-800-645-7270
FAX:   1-800-255-5067

Fantastic Service and Delivery

I ordered on Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!
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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
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From BBeizer@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!BBeizer
From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 11:48:08
Organization: GNN
Lines: 86
Message-ID: <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
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In article <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> Craig Wall wrote:
>Date:	28 Jun 1996 14:47:45 GMT
>From:	cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
>Newsgroups:	rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject:	Re: Small model jet turbine engines

Have to put my two cents in, having in a former lifetime worked with real 
turbojet engines. 

>    I think the engine would be most attractive if it was used as a fanjet 
>    core, since the engine apparently splits it's effective output between 
>    exhaust thrust and spindle torque.  I believe the original engine was 
>    actually flown as a turboprop; a good front fan and duct arrangement 
>    might well get you a couple hundred pounds of static thrust.

I doubt that.  Not without breaking a few laws of thermodynamics.  It's 
very hard, on a small scale, to get a 1:1 or better thrust to weight ratio, no 
matter how you couple the engine's output to the air (e.g., direct, fan, 
turboprop).  Fans, direct, or turboprops are just alternate ways of coupling
the power to the medium.  A "couple of hundred pounds of static thrust" engine
will probably way 300+ pounds--hardly what I would call "small" or model scale.
    Efficiency goes down, sharply down, with smaller scale.  Internal drag,
blade loss, boundary layer effects (and associated losses) are all 
proportionately higher at smaller scales because such losses are related
to the linear dimensions or the square of linear dimensions while the thrust
is proportional to the cube of linear dimensions.  

>    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
>    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells; 
>    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....

I would assume that both centrifugal compressors and turbines are in mind. I
can't see possibly building and balancing a bladed turbine or compressor. 
And frankly, considering the very high temperatures, thermal distortions,
thermal stress, coolant management (inside the buckets -- the blades are 
called "buckets" BTW), I don't think I'd want to be around when such a home
built was fired up.  Also, note that the buckets are often filled with 
liquid sodium or other nasties--has to be centrifugal/centrifugal to even 
have a possibility of being home built.

>    I think the engine has merit.  I'd love to build a jet homebuilt aircraft,

Model builders who want to build RC jet aircraft use an ordinary reciprocating
high-performance model aircraft engine with an attached fan.  Seems to work
real well.  Such engine/fan combinations are commercially available for a 
couple of hundred bucks.  I don't follow this, though. 

>*DON"T* confuse these with ramjets

Certainly not.  A ramjet engine won't work worth a damn unless you've got
the airspeed up to Mach 2+.  In a ramjet, all the compression is done by
the inlet instead of the bladed compressor.  Compression ratios have to about
5:1 or better to get any kind of positive thrust.  Furthermore, the inlet 
must be variable geometry, as well as the exhaust nozzle.  No blades or such
but really complicated as hell.  And again the inevitable scaling problems.
Note that every ramjet project (and there were hundreds of them all over the
world from 1935 on) eventually petered out without producing a viable engine.
Sorry to throw buckets of water on this one, but the ramjet has yet to make
it in the full-scale world.  And there's that little problem of getting up
to mach 2.

> or pulsejets), which have excellent performance but require a pressurized
> propane tank

Various brands of model pulsejets have been available for model aircraft
builders since about 1947.  They ran on various fuels, often kerosene,
gasolene, propane, what not.  Except for the air intake valve, which is built
out of something nasty like berrylium-copper (it is a flat, multi-lobed, leaf
spring) the rest is well within the scope of an avid home machinist who has
access to a stout concrete bunker for testing.

Boris
Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:02:05 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <darylb-2806961305450001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4qv0gt$ace@news.sdd.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4qv0gt$ace@news.sdd.hp.com>, darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) wrote:

> <snip>
> 
> 
> |> >         What does it attach to?
> |> > 
> |> > Bill
> |> 
> |> The lathe!
> |> 
> |> Seriously, it attaches to the bed and has a dovetail slide which can be
> |> pivoted to any taper angle. The cross slide is released from it's thread
> |> and fixed to a slider on the taper attachments dovetail slide so that as
> |> you move the carriage left and right the crossslide automatically follows
> |> (in/out) the taper angle.
> |> 
> |> Cheers
> |> Daryl
> 
> Argh! I should have been a little clearer myself...what I "meant" to ask
> was: to what "kind" of a lathe does it attach?
> 
> Bill

BTW how are you posting with my ID?

The real darylb


From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on welding with power supplies
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:04:53 GMT
Organization: TI
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4r13bl$29c@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
References: <4quehi$smj@server.eng.dsea.com>
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X-Newsreader: News Version 5.0 from Hummingbird Communications Ltd.

>
>OK, it is clear that my Lamda power supplies are not what is needed for
>MIG, TIG, arc, etc.
>
>But, in addition to these power supplies, I do have about 1 ton of
>isolation transformers.  These are very nice ones, with about 12 tap
>points, and can do a 4:1 voltage reduction.  They weigh about 150 lbs
>each.  And they are free.
>
>Plus, I have a huge, very nice auto transformer, also for free.
>
>Say I feed 220 into the autotrans, then step down 4:1.  Do I have an
>adjustable-power AC arc welder?
>
>I understand some of the safety concerns.  This is on my mind. But
>this stuff is just sitting around......
>

Man, I wish I had a supply of free stuff like that!!  I haven't done what you're asking,
but it seems that your transformers are at least as hefty as the ones in most
of the 200-amp "crackerbox" welders I have seen.

I'd also be tempted to take it a step further - buy some of the 300-amp rectifiers from
Surplus Sales in Lincoln, Nebraska, and parallel them with enough series impedance
(use equal lengths of wire as ballast resistors) to get a rectifier bridge that will handle 
the surge current.  Voila - DC welder as well.  Since they're free, you could also use
one of the big transformers as a super arc stabilizer - just wire the secondary in series
with the DC like a big inductor.  

Marty Jones

mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com

>Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
> Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
>  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
>   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: taper attachment
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:00:41 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <darylb-2806961304210001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4qv0gt$ace@news.sdd.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4qv0gt$ace@news.sdd.hp.com>, darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) wrote:

> <snip>
> 
> 
> |> >         What does it attach to?
> |> > 
> |> > Bill
> |> 
> |> The lathe!
> |> 
> |> Seriously, it attaches to the bed and has a dovetail slide which can be
> |> pivoted to any taper angle. The cross slide is released from it's thread
> |> and fixed to a slider on the taper attachments dovetail slide so that as
> |> you move the carriage left and right the crossslide automatically follows
> |> (in/out) the taper angle.
> |> 
> |> Cheers
> |> Daryl
> 
> Argh! I should have been a little clearer myself...what I "meant" to ask
> was: to what "kind" of a lathe does it attach?
> 
> Bill

Most likely a metal lathe 8^)

Daryl


From jay@ftp.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!lard.ftp.com!seashore.ftp.com!jay
From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Shaper Questions
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:48:34
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <960628124834@seashore.ftp.com>
References: <31CB621F.6C7@onramp.net> <4qpjpe$91@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
Reply-To: jay@ftp.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: seashore.ftp.com
NNTP-Software: PC/TCP NNTP

In article <4qpjpe$91@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>that will get posted by my shaper (Real Soon Now) to help remind me on
>the oiling.  If there's any interest, I'll post it and/or send it to
>the FAQ.  (Jim, is there any call for this?)  No pictures; no scanner.
--------------------------------=-=--=-------------------------
YUP....please post.... and add it to the FAQ under SHAPERS.  
I've got a 7" Atlas and probably am missing an oil point or two, so 
at least your oil point list will help me double check things and
will get attached to the wall next to my shaper. 
BTW, I put such documents inside a plastic wrap before stapling to the wall.
 Thanks for doing it. 
Jay                                    



From frank@dsea.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill grinding
Date: 28 Jun 1996 16:16:55 GMT
Organization: dsea.com
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4r10hn$e9c@server.eng.dsea.com>
References: <31d2f3ff.333840744@newsource.ihug.co.nz> <4qv4hi$3ja@server.eng.dsea.com> <09960528063753.OUI08.SLogan@gnn.com>
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WRT "why not hard, find threaded rod"...

I thought the design was somewhat obvious from what I explained
earlier, but perhaps not.

The idea is to make a correctly-shaped U out of Al pieces, 
and put oillite bearings in the sides of the U.  Then slip
the bolt/rod through the bearings.  Threaded rod does not do
well as a bearing surface, but a hard bolt or partially
threaded rod would work well.  The chuck is then put on the 
bolt/rod and secured with a jamb nut.

This assembly has single-axis slide plus rotation -- nearly
exactly what is needed for a drill grinder.  Add a door hinge
to the bottom of the U and you have angle adjustment -- get
a plastic protractor from Kmart for a readout.

I have looked at and bought a few of the cheap sharpeners.  Most
are junk and are both too flexable and have too high friction
when rotating.  This results in imprecise cuts.  If I wanted 
imprecision, I'd sharpen drills by hand!




From dzr10@eng.amdahl.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!ogma.ccc.amdahl.com!netnews
From: Dave Ruigh <dzr10@eng.amdahl.com>
Subject: Re: Superchargers (long)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Lines: 63

Earl C Edgerton wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know if there are any plans available to build a supercharger (blower)
> for automotive engines.  I have a Ford Flathead V8 and I would like to try
> fabricating a blower for it, similar in style to the ones that were built in the
> 50's.  Maybe some of the "ol timers" (no offense) here had some experience during
> those "nostalgic" days.  I've seen some pictures of different blowers and they
> look relatively simple in design (but so does a modern 6-71), but they want
> an arm & a leg for one....I would appreciate any help.
> 
> Earl

I've been a bit busy lately to spend much time with the newsgroups, but 
I can't resist, this has to be one of my all-time favorite "lifetime 
projects" (building a supercharger).

B&M, Eaton, and others do build Roots-type (the GM 6-71 style) blowers
for automotive applications, though they are in the $2k - $3k+ range.
I don't know of any specific plans available, though I've seen data
in mechanical engineering texts on the various blower types. (Check the
library for "Marks Mechanical Engineer's Handbook" & books on air compressor 
design.

In principle, the Roots blower is quite simple, the rotor's basic form
is an epicycloid, a circle rolling on a circle. There are different
flavors, straight rotors, helical rotors, 2 lobe, 3 lobe, 4 lobe etc.,
as well as variations like the Lysholm (used in many large air compressors
and refrigeration systems). Newer designs use Teflon or other polymer
resin coatings on the rotors, which are typicaly aluminum.

I have an old 3-53 GM blower (off a small tractor or stationary engine)
that would probably work well with the swept volume of your flathead
motor. It has 2 lobed straight rotors 4.5" dia X 6.5" long. The rotor
axes are 3" apart and drive with helical gears. Unfortunately, this blower 
saw hard use on a VW dragster, and would not be usefull for high levels of
boost due to excessive rotor clearance. My original plan was to machine 
new rotors and use this case... that was in 1978. 

The cheif problem when contemplating machining the rotors is accuracy,
the rotors must run very close (.002" - .006" or so) without touching,
and this clearance must be constant throughout the pumping "cycle".
Obviously CNC would be able to handle this easily, I machined a test
piece out of delrin with the proper shape by just cutting the 2d 
cross section. For the final rotor shape I was going to use the 4th
axis, since it'd be nearly impossible to machine the 6.5" long
part from the end, and make multiple passes with a ball end mill.
You could get darn close with a manual machine using an acurate template.
Set up the work between centers, or in some type of fixture that allows
you to position it repeatably it about it's (the rotor's) axis. Rough the 
shape out with a regular 2 flute end mill by eyballing it, then when 
you're ready for the finish passes, touch off on the template (attached
to the end of the workpiece) with the ball end cutter, spacing your
cuts for minimum scallop. A straight 2 lober could probably be done in 2 
setups at 180 degrees, since you can get to half the shape in each. Use
a ball just under the minimum curvature of the template. This is just
one idea, there are many ways this could be done, grind a form cutter(s)
to develop the shape in one pass, use a cam following arrangement with
the quill (like a tracer), etc. Not a project I would take lightly, 
but certainly possible with the right equipment (at least a mill).

Good luck if you decide to take on this project!

Dave


From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Sherline mill wanted, VA
Date: 28 Jun 1996 16:53:21 GMT
Organization: TI
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4r12m1$29c@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
References: <babcock.7.0004030D@infi.net> <4qc9o7$ovo@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <1996Jun25.072527.11346@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Reply-To: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com
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X-Newsreader: News Version 5.0 from Hummingbird Communications Ltd.

>brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>
>>Tom (babcock@infi.net) wrote:
>>: I'm looking for a used Sherline milling machine.  I'm in the Tidewater area of 
>>I'd wish you good luck.  I seldom see Sherline equipment offered for sale 
>>in this group, at least partially because it's so useful, that a bigger
>>mill does *not* obsolete the Sherline.
>
>>You can get the basic mill for about $500 and all the tooling you'll need
>>(including the small rotary table) for about another $500.  Try Morton
>>Machinery's web pages for the best discount.

Can someone tell me how to locate the Morton Machinery web page?  I too am
interested in buying and would like to see what they have.

Marty Jones
mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com
>
>>Pete Brooks
>
>Uh, I think Blueridge tools sells the Sherline line and they'd be kinda
>local to Tidewater VA ...
>-- 
>    - Barry Workman 
>


From user@ns.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.ns.net!ppp3.ns.net!user
From: user@ns.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Unimat 1--anyone actually seen something made w/ one?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:16:39 GMT
Organization: NextGen Systems Internet Services
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <user-2806960922500001@ppp3.ns.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp3.ns.net

Has anyone out there had any positive experiences w/ the little
'design-award' winning Unimat _1_?  (the one w/ the plastic collets and
3-jaw. . .)

(asender@ns.net)


From user@ns.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.ns.net!ppp3.ns.net!user
From: user@ns.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: $? for used sherlines and unimats
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:14:35 GMT
Organization: NextGen Systems Internet Services
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <user-2806960920470001@ppp3.ns.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp3.ns.net

How much do small hobbyist-type machines such as the Unimat 3 and Sherline
lathes go for used, and where does one find them?


From mill0440@gold.tc.umn.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cyberstore.ca!skypoint.com!newshub.tc.umn.edu!newsstand.tc.umn.edu!gold.tc.umn.edu!mill0440
From: mill0440@gold.tc.umn.edu (Henry W Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Joining two compressors
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:14:19 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4r13tb$cfc@epx.cis.umn.edu>
References: <31D336EC.6447@sedona.net>
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Doug Von Gausig (dougvg@sedona.net) wrote:
: Is it a good idea, and is there anything to be gained by joining two 5hp 
: 60-gallon compressors together?

: If it does make sense, what should I be careful about in joining them?

What you gain is increased flow rate.  If one compressor often isn't enough
(with a 5 hp compresser that is a lot of air) flow, the second can kick in.

What to watch for is it is difficult to syncronise 2 compressers to start at
the sane time.  this could be a problem, one compresser will do all the work,
most of the time, and will wear more.  Of course if you know that one 
is mroe efficent then the other, you may want to set the more efficent one to
start 5 pounds above the less efficent one, and stop a little above.  Then for
most work the efficent one will do the work, and when you need high air flow
the second one will kick in and make up teh extra.  This may also help the
noise level in your shop.

IF you rarely need the extra airflow, but you have a sudden peak demand,
perhaps you should just invest in another tank.   I don't know if your
air compresser will have any problmes with the setup you propose, and a second
tank will not have a problem.  



From cwall@swri.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sun2.ccf.swri.edu!usenet
From: cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:59:59 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
Lines: 161
Message-ID: <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.4

In article <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com>, BBeizer@gnn.com says...
>
>
>In article <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> Craig Wall wrote:
>>Date:  28 Jun 1996 14:47:45 GMT
>>From:  cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
>>Newsgroups:    rec.crafts.metalworking
>>Subject:       Re: Small model jet turbine engines
>
>Have to put my two cents in, having in a former lifetime worked with real 
>turbojet engines. 



   Sorry, Boris- I was predicating my remarks on using this engine for 
   a homebuilt aircraft, not a model airplane.  

   Apparently you are not familiar with the Savoy "Screamin' Demon" engine;
   this is not a model-sized engine, unless it is a very LARGE model. The
   prototype produced the equivalent of a 30hp motor when coupled to a 
   gearbox and propellor. 


>
>>    I think the engine would be most attractive if it was used as a fanjet 
>>    core, since the engine apparently splits it's effective output between 
>>    exhaust thrust and spindle torque.  I believe the original engine was 
>>    actually flown as a turboprop; a good front fan and duct arrangement 
>>    might well get you a couple hundred pounds of static thrust.


>I doubt that.  Not without breaking a few laws of thermodynamics.  It's 
>very hard, on a small scale, to get a 1:1 or better thrust to weight ratio, no 
>matter how you couple the engine's output to the air (e.g., direct, fan, 
>turboprop).  Fans, direct, or turboprops are just alternate ways of coupling
>the power to the medium.  A "couple of hundred pounds of static thrust" engine
>will probably way 300+ pounds--hardly what I would call "small" or model scale.

    
     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about 60 lbs or
     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.  I doubt very
     seriously this would break any physical laws, since engines with similar
     performance are currently being flown in ships like the Caproni and the 
     BD-5J.    


>    Efficiency goes down, sharply down, with smaller scale.  Internal drag,
>blade loss, boundary layer effects (and associated losses) are all 
>proportionately higher at smaller scales because such losses are related
>to the linear dimensions or the square of linear dimensions while the thrust
>is proportional to the cube of linear dimensions.  


     Yes, you are quite correct. The fuel consumption will be through the roof;
     but if I could have one I'd still use it- freely admiting that it was 
     *in no way* a "practical" engine.


>>    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
>>    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells; 
>>    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....
>
>I would assume that both centrifugal compressors and turbines are in mind. I
>can't see possibly building and balancing a bladed turbine or compressor. 

      Quite right again; these are simple centrifugal flow engines with impulse
      turbines, which of course can be balanced by a *careful* amateur. The 
      plans describe knife edges and a 60hz vibrator setup; a bladed wheel with
      "christmas tree" assembly is far beyond an amateur.

>And frankly, considering the very high temperatures, thermal distortions,
>thermal stress, coolant management (inside the buckets -- the blades are 
>called "buckets" BTW), I don't think I'd want to be around when such a home
>built was fired up.  Also, note that the buckets are often filled with 
>liquid sodium or other nasties--has to be centrifugal/centrifugal to even 
>have a possibility of being home built.


     Well, these turbines (you haven't seen them, remember) are hacked out of
     a solid chunk of stainless and have a blade thickness of 1/8th" and a
     diameter of 4 or 5".  IOW's, they're pretty "meaty".  They are crude, I 
     admit- but I do believe they would work, as they have a 90 degree bucket
     and the nozzle feeding them is at a 45 degree angle.


>>    I think the engine has merit.  I'd love to build a jet homebuilt aircraft,

>
>Model builders who want to build RC jet aircraft use an ordinary reciprocating
>high-performance model aircraft engine with an attached fan.  Seems to work
>real well.  Such engine/fan combinations are commercially available for a 
>couple of hundred bucks.  I don't follow this, though. 

     Yeah; I think they sorta suck. Jets that sound like weedeaters just sort 
     of *annoy* me, but to each his own. Again, though, I'm talking about a 
     single seat full-sized airplane, NOT models.


>>*DON"T* confuse these with ramjets
>
>Certainly not.  A ramjet engine won't work worth a damn unless you've got
>the airspeed up to Mach 2+.  In a ramjet, all the compression is done by
>the inlet instead of the bladed compressor.  Compression ratios have to about
>5:1 or better to get any kind of positive thrust.  Furthermore, the inlet 
>must be variable geometry, as well as the exhaust nozzle.  No blades or such
>but really complicated as hell.  And again the inevitable scaling problems.
>Note that every ramjet project (and there were hundreds of them all over the
>world from 1935 on) eventually petered out without producing a viable engine.
>Sorry to throw buckets of water on this one, but the ramjet has yet to make
>it in the full-scale world.  And there's that little problem of getting up
>to mach 2.


     You missed me with that bucket of water.  I'm way ahead of you here.


>> or pulsejets), which have excellent performance but require a pressurized
>> propane tank
>
>Various brands of model pulsejets have been available for model aircraft
>builders since about 1947.  They ran on various fuels, often kerosene,
>gasolene, propane, what not.  Except for the air intake valve, which is built
>out of something nasty like berrylium-copper (it is a flat, multi-lobed, leaf
>spring) the rest is well within the scope of an avid home machinist who has
>access to a stout concrete bunker for testing.


    You missed again, Boris- and while your editing makes it look like I was
    saying pulsejets have excellent performance, it was *pressure* jets I was
    refering to.

    Pressure jets, as designed by Eugene M. Gluhareff, run *only* on propane,
    have no moving parts, and have both the best thrust to weight ratio and 
    the best specific fuel consumption of *any* jet engine short of a full-
    sized turbofanjet.


    Craig Wall


















.




From hollen@vigra.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ionews.ionet.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help in mechanical design
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 17:29:20 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 69
Message-ID: <nchgrvon0v.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: calvin.vigra.com
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1




Here is a Stainless Steel stand I want to build.  I would like to make
it out of square tubing, maybe 3/4".  The square tubing will be easier
to cut and weld than round.  The two sides of the stand will each hold
a container weighing approximately 150 lbs.  The two sides of the
stand will share a common center set of legs.  On the bottom of each
leg will be a leveler foot.


Side View

  -------------------------------
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  -------------------------------
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |


End View

  ---------------
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |
  ---------------
  |             |
  |             |
  |             |


Top View

  -------------------------------
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  |             |               |
  -------------------------------


Approximate dimenions are 24" high, 36" wide and 20" deep.


My question is, how do I calculate what tubing size including wall
thickness will be appropriate and will hold the weight it is destined
to take plus an adequate safety margin?

I know the compressive load on a single 2x4 is close to a ton, but I
have no idea of how to calculate this for metal.

thanks,
dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 28 Jun 1996 17:36:31 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
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X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5

In article <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, From 
lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak), the following was written:
> I am having difficulty locating a tap and die for cutting acme 
> threads. I realize that most acme threads are cut on the lathe, but I 
> find it hard to believe that some specialty supplier does not sell a 
> tap and die for them.  Anyone have any pointers?

SOME Acme sizes are available from the usual suppliers, MSC, J&L, etc. 
For others, you may need to order one special-made.  Ask at the same
places.

> A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
> on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?

With a tap.  I've heard of some folks making a very small internal
threading tool, but it's not economical if you figure what your time is
worth.  

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From BBeizer@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!BBeizer
From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 15:58:06
Organization: GNN
Lines: 84
Message-ID: <4r1dem$9ln@news-e2b.gnn.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
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X-Mailer: GNNmessenger 1.3

>   Sorry, Boris- I was predicating my remarks on using this engine for 
>   a homebuilt aircraft, not a model airplane.  

I guess we all have different concepts of "small"

>   Apparently you are not familiar with the Savoy "Screamin' Demon" engine;
>   this is not a model-sized engine, unless it is a very LARGE model. The
>   prototype produced the equivalent of a 30hp motor when coupled to a 
>   gearbox and propellor.

I was not familiar with it.  Hardly a model-size.   

>     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
>     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about  60 lbs or
>     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
>     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.  I doubt very
>     seriously this would break any physical laws, since engines with similar
>     performance are currently being flown in ships like the Caproni and the 
>     BD-5J.    

Again, scale issues.  At 60 lbs, 100 lbs thrust should be reasonable, and
200 not out of sight at all--at least theoretically.  

>>I would assume that both centrifugal compressors and turbines are in mind. I
>>can't see possibly building and balancing a bladed turbine or compressor. 
>
>      Quite right again; these are simple centrifugal flow engines with impulse
>      turbines, which of course can be balanced by a *careful* amateur. The 
>      plans describe knife edges and a 60hz vibrator setup; a bladed wheel with
>      "christmas tree" assembly is far beyond an amateur.

I think that even a centrifugal flow engine at 60 pounds would be one
hell-of an amateur challenge. 

>     Well, these turbines (you haven't seen them, remember) are hacked out of
>     a solid chunk of stainless and have a blade thickness of 1/8th" and a
>     diameter of 4 or 5".  IOW's, they're pretty "meaty".  They are crude, I 
>     admit- but I do believe they would work, as they have a 90 degree bucket
>     and the nozzle feeding them is at a 45 degree angle.

Probably not cruder than the prototype centrifugal jet engines built in the
30's and 40's, and probably better material. 

>     Yeah; I think they sorta suck. Jets that sound like weedeaters just sort 
>     of *annoy* me, but to each his own. Again, though, I'm talking about a 
>     single seat full-sized airplane, NOT models.

Different worlds. I cam in late on the thread and falsely assumed that you guys
were talking about model-sized turbos, not light aircraft jets.   

>     You missed me with that bucket of water.  I'm way ahead of you here.

>    saying pulsejets have excellent performance, it was *pressure* jets I was
>    refering to.
>    Pressure jets, as designed by Eugene M. Gluhareff, run *only* on propane,
>    have no moving parts, and have both the best thrust to weight ratio and 
>    the best specific fuel consumption of *any* jet engine short of a full-
>    sized turbofanjet.

What's a "pressure jet."  Educate us.  Never heard of that kind of engine. 
It's not a pulse jet, as you said.  And obviously not a ramjet.  If it has
no moving parts, what does the compression?  Or does this run at atmospheric
pressures?  I assume that when you say "runs only on propane" you mean as a 
fuel and presumably the oxygen comes from air.  So where's the compressor?
Without a compressor of some kind (moving parts or no) it will have to violate
some laws of physics to get decent thrust--or as Scotty say's "I can nae break
the Laws of Physics, Cap'n."

Boris


Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com

Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
Please update your directories and use the above address
(bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!blixen.aquilagroup.com!news
From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4r19ed$kfg@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: thoreau.aquilagroup.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.38

I can never locate the tables, but I can usually find my calculator:

Inches:

Drill dia = Major diameter -  .7( 1 / pitch)

This is for 70% thread engagement.  Change the .7 to whatever you
want.

Metric:

Working in millimeters:
Drill dia = Major diameter - .7(pitch)

Same deal with that .7

Now all you need is a table that tells what diameter a #6 screw is.

What is the formula for converting these # sizes to inches?

-KF-



From rnichols@interaccess.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!interaccess!omega-3.null.org!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 19:53:23 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <Dtq78z.8Cv.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <4q7i8t$kd9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4qrh6e$43m@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d48.w.interaccess.com

In article <4qrh6e$43m@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>,
Marty Jones <mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com> wrote:
:
:I'd be concerned about where the aluminum went that was "eaten".  Probably
:now exists as aluminum compounds in the food.  Might be harmful.

Then I'm sure you are horrified at the thought that many over-the-
counter antacids sold in drugstores contain aluminum hydroxide as
one-half of their active ingredients.  Even occasional use of such
antacids is a far bigger source of dietary aluminum than is routine use
of aluminum cookware.

Followups redirected to alt.sex.aluminum.baseball.bat.

(Not really.)

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Sherline mill wanted, VA
Message-ID: <1996Jun28.154201.23872@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 28 Jun 96 15:42:01 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <babcock.7.0004030D@infi.net> <4qc9o7$ovo@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
 <4r12m1$29c@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
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In article <4r12m1$29c@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>, mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones) writes:
|>Can someone tell me how to locate the Morton Machinery web page?  I too am
                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|>interested in buying and would like to see what they have.

Fundamental web-browsing 101:  Find a good search service.  My favorite
is Digital's Alta Vista:

   http://www.altavista.digital.com/

and enter "Morton Machinery" as the query.  The very first answer is
Morton's web page, http://www.mortonmachinery.com

Jim


From john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!wrighta.demon.co.uk!john1
From: John G Wright <john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:46:00 +0100
Organization: none
Lines: 80
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ZBYvLBAISE1xEwXp@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de>
 <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
 <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
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In article <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>, Craig Wall <cwall@swri.edu>
writes
>In article <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87>, wwebster@nortel.ca says...
>
>>Yup.  And I bought those plans 25 years ago for $10.  It was advertised
>>back then just about the same way as now.  The ad said it could be built
>>for under $100.  Yeah, right!  The cost of the specified nuts and bolts
>>would cost over $100 at that time.  Not to mention the body tube!  I've
>>yet to find anybody who could build one and get it working properly.  As
>>the saying goes, "you get what you pay for".
>
>
>
>    I also have purchased the Savoy jet engine plans (a couple of times, 
>    in fact- the first time was about 1965) and haven't moved on it- though
>    I did hear about a kid that built a *1/3* sized version for a science
>    fair project!  I think it required some additives to the kerosene to get
>    it to run, but supposedly it did.
>
>    I think the engine would be most attractive if it was used as a fanjet 
>    core, since the engine apparently splits it's effective output between 
>    exhaust thrust and spindle torque.  I believe the original engine was 
>    actually flown as a turboprop; a good front fan and duct arrangement 
>    might well get you a couple hundred pounds of static thrust.
>
>    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
>    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells; 
>    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....
>
>    I think the engine has merit.  I'd love to build a jet homebuilt aircraft,
>    but the only engines I see that are remotely suitable are the Gluhareff
>    propane pressure jets (*DON"T* confuse these with ramjets or pulsejets),
>    which have excellent performance but require a pressurized propane tank
>    (and *NO*, they will not work with any other fuel).  The Savoy engine
>    would let you fuel up at any airport that services jets, and it would be
>    a true advance if these engines were made available in a decent form.
>
>
>    Craig Wall  
>
You are asking for help with info on making model jet turbines. They
can be made from published designs and will work. The hobby is in its
infancy and the designs are evolving. I hope others will find this info
helpful.

There are 2 books available both written by Germans and recently
translated into English the first is by Kurt Schrekling and called Gas
Tubine Engines for Model Aircraft. The second is Jet Engines by Thomas
Kamps.Both books are available from Traplet Publications and they have a
good web site at http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet the books can be
ordered on the internet and there are pictures of both front covers.  

I have made Kurt's engine and have like all involved found it an
absorbing hobby. The actual making of the parts is reasonably
straigtforward but it is not easy to make changes because there are so
many variables. The engines all tend to run hot (red hot!) and the only
succesful one is the one that runs at about 500 centigrade. I have had
results similar to those Kurt claims for the design 4.5Lbs thrust at 600
centigrade and 72,000 rpm. I have seen an engine with a revised
combustion chamber run at 6.5Lbs thrust at higher revs and still be at
less than 500 centigrade, so I know that it is possible to get good
results.

When Thomas ran his engine he was getting about 8Lbs thrust at low
temperatures but the engine is heavier than Kurt's. I have not heard of
any that have made Thomas's design yet.

Several are flying with these engines. The power to weight ratio is 1:2
so they will power an 11-12 lb model. I have only seen the videos which
look really spectacular. The sound is really like a jet with a whistle
and a roar. The noise levels are apparently lower than piston engines ,
but I still wear ear defenders when running mine on the bench!

The materials are aluminium and 310 or 316 stainless for the parts that
get hot.The compressor on Kurts engine is made of plywood! and the one
on Thomas's is a car turbocharger compressor. The welding is TIG welding
which I had the local shop do for me.
John
-- 
John G Wright


From rnichols@interaccess.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on welding with power supplies
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:20:06 GMT
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In article <4quehi$smj@server.eng.dsea.com>,
Frank Evan Perdicaro <frank@newshost.dsea.com> wrote:
:
:OK, it is clear that my Lamda power supplies are not what is needed for
:MIG, TIG, arc, etc.
:
:But, in addition to these power supplies, I do have about 1 ton of
:isolation transformers.  These are very nice ones, with about 12 tap
:points, and can do a 4:1 voltage reduction.  They weigh about 150 lbs
:each.  And they are free.
:
:Plus, I have a huge, very nice auto transformer, also for free.
:
:Say I feed 220 into the autotrans, then step down 4:1.  Do I have an
:adjustable-power AC arc welder?

No, you won't.  That setup lacks any sort of series impedance for
controlling the current.  The transformer in a common AC arc welder is
constructed with an adjustable element that allows the magnetic flux
produced by the primary winding to bypass the secondary.  That variable
flux bypass shows up in the equivalent circuit as a series inductance
that is the primary element for controlling the current flow.  Without
some sort of series element in the circuit, the only thing
you can control is the voltage, and that's an extremely poor way to
control current in a welder.

Yes, you can do the job with a conventional transformer and an external
inductor, but the inductor needs to be almost as large as the
transformer, so there is a big advantage to building that function into
the transformer itself.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From rcook@BIX.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolts VS Rivets
Date: 28 Jun 1996 22:22:04 GMT
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bikerbil wrote:
>Are they in fact stronger than bolting it together? How do I tell the
>difference between the rivets that you use with a hammer and ones that
>use a riveter (I dont know what the tool is called, Ive just seen them
>on TV)
>
You're probably better off with nuts and bolts and a design that doesn't
let the fasteners work as hinge pivots.

--RC


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Joining two compressors
Date: 28 Jun 1996 23:18:30 GMT
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In message <31D336EC.6447@sedona.net> - Doug Von Gausig
<dougvg@sedona.net>Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:35:40 -0700 writes:
:->
:->Is it a good idea, and is there anything to be gained by joining two 5hp 
:->60-gallon compressors together?
:->
:->If it does make sense, what should I be careful about in joining them?
:->
:->Doug

If you need the extra capacity, it works fine. At work we have 2
100HP/500CFM compressors connected to the same air system. For
'normal' use, we only run 1 at a time(to save electric costs),  but
for the big drills we run both together. One is set ~5PSI lower than
the other, to 'take up the slack' when the pressure drops. After 4-5
years there have been no ill effects.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From dzr10@eng.amdahl.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave Ruigh <dzr10@eng.amdahl.com>
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
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Boris Beizer wrote:
> 
> In article <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> Craig Wall wrote:
> >Date:  28 Jun 1996 14:47:45 GMT
> >From:  cwall@swri.edu (Craig Wall)
> >Newsgroups:    rec.crafts.metalworking
> >Subject:       Re: Small model jet turbine engines
> 
> Have to put my two cents in, having in a former lifetime worked with real
> turbojet engines.
> 
> >    I think the engine would be most attractive if it was used as a fanjet
> >    core, since the engine apparently splits it's effective output between
> >    exhaust thrust and spindle torque.  I believe the original engine was
> >    actually flown as a turboprop; a good front fan and duct arrangement
> >    might well get you a couple hundred pounds of static thrust.
> 
> I doubt that.  Not without breaking a few laws of thermodynamics.  It's
> very hard, on a small scale, to get a 1:1 or better thrust to weight ratio, no
> matter how you couple the engine's output to the air (e.g., direct, fan,
> turboprop).  Fans, direct, or turboprops are just alternate ways of coupling
> the power to the medium.  A "couple of hundred pounds of static thrust" engine
> will probably way 300+ pounds--hardly what I would call "small" or model scale.
>     Efficiency goes down, sharply down, with smaller scale.  Internal drag,
> blade loss, boundary layer effects (and associated losses) are all
> proportionately higher at smaller scales because such losses are related
> to the linear dimensions or the square of linear dimensions while the thrust
> is proportional to the cube of linear dimensions.


Your points about effeciency and relative unimportance of the coupling
method are well taken. Small turbines for model aircraft, both
homebuilt and commercial, have existed though for several years. The Schreckling
and Kamps designs have been succesfully built and flown by amateur 
machinists. Schneider-Sanchez/GWM, JPX, AMT, SWB, Turbomin, and several 
other new manufacturers are selling model turbines in the 6-30lbf thrust range.
Kurt Schreckling has adapted one of his designs to shaft power, and has 
used it in a model helicopter. As you predict, fuel consumption is an order of
magnitude higher than full-sized turbines.

> 
> >    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
> >    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells;
> >    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....
> 
> I would assume that both centrifugal compressors and turbines are in mind. I
> can't see possibly building and balancing a bladed turbine or compressor.
> And frankly, considering the very high temperatures, thermal distortions,
> thermal stress, coolant management (inside the buckets -- the blades are
> called "buckets" BTW), I don't think I'd want to be around when such a home
> built was fired up.  Also, note that the buckets are often filled with
> liquid sodium or other nasties--has to be centrifugal/centrifugal to even
> have a possibility of being home built.

Most of the commercial units use axial (bladed) turbines coupled with
turbocharger style radial outflow (centifugal) compressors. These designs
are less optimised for thrust in the interest of keeping turbine
inlet temps in the 500-700C range. No internal blade cooling is
used in any of the commercial units I've heard about. Amateur 
built turbine wheels have been made from 300 series stainless 
steel, most commercial units use 713c or other high temperature
nickel alloys. Turbomin uses a radial compressor and turbine,
and most all employ a bladed diffuser. The Shreckling FD3 uses a 
radial compressor partly made of wood! (reinforced with carbon
fiber). With speeds in the 65,00-110,000 RPM range, and standard
radial ball-bearings, balance is critical, but presents no special 
problems.

> 
> >    I think the engine has merit.  I'd love to build a jet homebuilt aircraft,
> 
> Model builders who want to build RC jet aircraft use an ordinary reciprocating
> high-performance model aircraft engine with an attached fan.  Seems to work
> real well.  Such engine/fan combinations are commercially available for a
> couple of hundred bucks.  I don't follow this, though.

Ducted fan systems are, of course the practical way to enjoy the model jet
"experience", though some are willing to invest the thousands of dollars
on "real" turbojets which have recently become available, and the home
builder with paitence can acheive nearly the same performance for very 
much less. Although full-sized homebuilt turbojets have been discussed
in the rec.aviation newsgroups, I haven't actually heard of one being
built, but the same scale effect applies, and larger engines should 
actually be easier to build than model-sized ones. I would expect
far more problems getting the FAA to sign off on any hombrew turbine
(perhaps with good reason).

Dave
> 
<<<other interesting stuff about ram and pulsejets snipped>>>
> Boris
> Boris Beizer
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Dr. Boris Beizer                                  Seminars and Consulting on
> 1232  Glenbrook Road                       Software Testing & QA
> Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006 USA
> TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com
> 
> Note:  After July 1, 1996, bbeizer@mcimail.com will not be active.
> Please update your directories and use the above address
> (bbeizer@gnn.com) in the future.   Thank You.
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From wfiles@ozemail.com.au Sun Jul  7 15:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!OzEmail!OzEmail-In!news
From: wfiles@ozemail.com.au (william files)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cratex whereabouts
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:16:49 GMT
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I need to find  Cratex Co .Our supplies have dried up in Australia.
Where did they go to .  HELP
Thanks in advance
Bill Files



From tenter@voicenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tenter@voicenet.com (Tom Enterline)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 03:27:06 GMT
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wdailey@herbie.unl.edu (WILLIAM DAILEY) wrote:

>: So, in my mind, the conclusion is as follows:
>: 1) Never mess with anything that is under heavy pressure (such as a
>: tank of O2) unless you know what you are doing.
>: 2) Oxygen by itself is not pure evil despite what people say. Yes, it
>: will accelerate a fire but pure O2 at atmospheric pressure seems
>: pretty harmless by itself unless you combine it with fire.
>: 3) It never hurts to be extra careful when dealing with flammables.

>: my $0.02 worth ... contradicting opinions welcomed.
>: Jens

>     I must take exception to #2.  Pure oxygen at atmospheric pressure
>is essentially pure evil.  I have worked as an oxygen clean worker for
>several years...repairing oxygen generation (cryogenic & 
>electrolytic), storage and distribution systems.  While in training i
>saw a film portraying a man that 
>stepped into a pan of oxygen vapor (at atmospheric pressure) and only 
>spots of blood were left.  He also caused 1/2 inch steel bulkheads to 
>bow on this carrier.  I have routinely done maintenance on oxygen 
>systems and it is a fact (not an opinion) that oxygen concentrations 
>approaching 90% are extremely hazardous (cinderblock can autoignite). 
>This is especially true in the prescence of organics.  I don't think 
>using an oxy rig in the manner described in your message provides evidence 
>to voice the points that you are making and i also think the 
>conclusions are irresponsible.  Real experimental work has been done 
>and it directly contradicts the amiable nature of a pure oxygen 
>environment that you have eluded to.

>willy

Also worth remembering the Apollo rocket that burned on the launch
pad.  IIRC the capsule was filled with almost pure O2 at atmospheric
pressure.  Even NASA didn't do enough flammability testing (the
testing was done at the in-flight environment of 3-4 psi absolute, not
14.7 psi).



From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp036-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on welding with power supplies
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:22:31 -0800
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In article <4quehi$smj@server.eng.dsea.com>, frank@newshost.dsea.com
(Frank Evan Perdicaro) wrote:

> OK, it is clear that my Lamda power supplies are not what is needed for
> MIG, TIG, arc, etc.
> 
> But, in addition to these power supplies, I do have about 1 ton of
> isolation transformers.  These are very nice ones, with about 12 tap
> points, and can do a 4:1 voltage reduction.  They weigh about 150 lbs
> each.  And they are free.
> 
> Plus, I have a huge, very nice auto transformer, also for free.
> 
> Say I feed 220 into the autotrans, then step down 4:1.  Do I have an
> adjustable-power AC arc welder?
> 
> I understand some of the safety concerns.  This is on my mind. But
> this stuff is just sitting around......
> 
> -- 
> Frank Evan Perdicaro                    Dainippon Screen Engineering of
America
>  Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.    3700 Segerstrom Ave
>   inhouse: frank@server, x258                 Santa Ana CA
>    outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258    92704       DoD:1097

4/1 with 220 gives 55V - about right - then think about useing the
autotransformer as a variable inductor in series with the transformer and
the load to set the current.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:54:48 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com> <4r19ed$kfg@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
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To: Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B <kferguson@aquilagroup.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------400857E0389C
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B wrote:
> 
> I can never locate the tables, but I can usually find my calculator:
> 
> Inches:
> 
> Drill dia = Major diameter -  .7( 1 / pitch)
> 
> This is for 70% thread engagement.  Change the .7 to whatever you
> want.
> 
> Metric:
> 
> Working in millimeters:
> Drill dia = Major diameter - .7(pitch)
> 
> Same deal with that .7
> 
> Now all you need is a table that tells what diameter a #6 screw is.
> 
> What is the formula for converting these # sizes to inches?
> 
> -KF-


Here it is  - posted last night.

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------400857E0389C
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Tap Drill calculations
Per Frank McLean
The Shop Wisdom of Frank McLean (Village Press)

TD  = Tap drill diameter
SD  = Screw diameter
TPI = Threads per inch

TD = SD - 1/TPI

	Ex.  #6 screw diameter = .138 = (major diameter)
		where TPI = 32 

		.138 - 1/32   =
	      = .138 - .031   =
	      = .107
		
		#36 is .1065" dia

To find screw diameter (major diameter) of a machine screw
multiply the machine screw number by .013.  Add the product
to .060".

	Ex.	(#6 X .013) + .06 =
		= .078 + .06  = 
		= 0.138" (major diameter)

Easier to get a table.

Paul in AJ AZ





--------------400857E0389C--



From gwhite@ll.mit.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@ll.mit.edu (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Small Stirling Engines? [Was:Sterling Question]
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 20:22:09 GMT
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In article <4qvsv1$9r@news.chatlink.com>,
   soltherm@cdsnet.net (Douglas S. Gonder) wrote:
<Does anybody know if a Sterling runs purely on the temperature
<difference between the hot and cold sides?. Would a steam jacket
<around same at a lower temperature but with a constant flow (<BTU's?)
<have the same effect.
<
I'm not sure I understand your question, but as long as we are 
discussing Striling engines, I thought I'd throw out a query of my own.

Does anyone know if there are any particular problems in scaling a 
Stirling engine down in size?  I was thinking of building something on 
the order of a Cox .010 model airplane engine, but based on a Stirling 
cycle.

I have heard of people at the big model engineering show exhibiting 
really tiny, high-speed Stirling engines, and Stirling engines that 
would run off the heat of your hand.  Does anyone know of any magazine 
articles describing such designs?

I've checked out a variety of Stirling related Web sites, but none of 
them describe anything particularly small.

Thanks!

Doug White


From scott.tudor@analog.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Scott C Tudor <scott.tudor@analog.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:48:26 -0700
Organization: analog.com
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <31D4370A.15FC@analog.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
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Traplet publishing sells a couple of good books on building jet engines.

You can email them at:

     traplet@dial.pipex.com

The STB - Gas Turbine Engines for model aircraft book is $24
The MJE - Model Jet Engines book is $24

Goodluck!



Barry Workman wrote:
> 
> onm010@uni-essen.de (Dr. Stefan P. Mueller) writes:
> 
> >In article <4pitmh$8bv@comet.magicnet.net>, dpuch@magicnet.net (Dale Puch)
> >writes:
> >|>I am looking for plans and/or information on making a small model jet
> >|>turbine engine.  Say about 6-10 lbs. of thrust range...
> 
> >This thread got me interested and I found the folowing URL on the web:
> 
> >   http://www.worldway.com/mall/savoy.html
> 
> >It looks like SAVOY SCIENTIFIC,  P.O. Box 1398, Dept. I,  SANTA MONICA, CA
> >90406 is selling plans for a jet engine for 15$
> 
> >Stefan
> 
> >--
> >Dr. Stefan P. Mueller, Nuklearmedizin, Universitaetsklinikum, Essen,
> > e-mail: onm010@uni-essen.de, phone: <49> 201/ 723-4179, FAX: -5964
> 
> and they have been doing so since my high school days (in Santa
> Monica, class of '63)
> 
> I have second hand information of one being built...
> --
>     - Barry Workman


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 19:40:13 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <31D4978D.1BA3@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com>
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Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> In article <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, From
> lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak), the following was written:
> > I am having difficulty locating a tap and die for cutting acme
> > threads. I realize that most acme threads are cut on the lathe, but I
> > find it hard to believe that some specialty supplier does not sell a
> > tap and die for them.  Anyone have any pointers?
> 
> SOME Acme sizes are available from the usual suppliers, MSC, J&L, etc.
> For others, you may need to order one special-made.  Ask at the same
> places.
> 

Just got the MSC sale book.  Page 31 has tandem (rough and finish on one shank) 
acme thread taps (rh or lh).

Maybe their BIG book has dies...

> > A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
> > on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?
> 
> With a tap.  I've heard of some folks making a very small internal
> threading tool, but it's not economical if you figure what your time is
> worth.
> 
> --
>   ---------------------------------------------------
>   From Scott Logan,
>   http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>   Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
> 

Paul in AJ AZ


From bernien@rahul.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bernie New <bernien@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:01:20 -0800
Organization: a2i network
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References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com> <4r19ed$kfg@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <31D48CE8.375E@ix.netcom.com>
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PPIERCE wrote:
> 
> To find screw diameter (major diameter) of a machine screw
> multiply the machine screw number by .013.  Add the product
> to .060".
> 
>         Ex.     (#6 X .013) + .06 =
>                 = .078 + .06  =
>                 = 0.138" (major diameter)
> 
> Easier to get a table.
> 
> Paul in AJ AZ

____________________

It seems like you would get a pretty good approximation to this by 
adding 5 to the machine screw size, and then dividing by 80. To divide 
by 80, first divide by 8 which at worst will leave eighths in the 
result. Convert this to decimal (I'm sure most of us know eighths by 
heart), and then divide by 10, by shifting the decimal over one place.

This works pretty well for a #6, but I haven't looked at how well it 
works for very large or very small sizes.

For a #6:

   6 + 5 = 11

   11 / 8 = 1-3/8 = 1.375

   1.375 / 10 = 0.138"

BTW: For those of you who followed the recent thread, I was taught these 
sort of approximation techniques back when I was using a slide rule.

Bernie.


From anderson@darex.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anderson <anderson@darex.com>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,sci.engr.manufacturing,alt.industrial,sci.engr.mech,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr,alt.manufacturing.misc,misc.industry.quality,rec.woodworking,alt.home.repair
Subject: THE NEW DRILL DOCTOR® PRECISION DRILL BIT SHARPENER by Darex
Date: 29 Jun 1996 07:11:25 GMT
Organization: InfoStructure - Ashland, OR
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Hi-
Many of you have asked about a good but inexpensive drill bit 
sharpener...here it is:
THE NEW DRILL DOCTOR® PRECISION DRILL BIT SHARPENER by Darex
Industrial quality at a home shop price.  http://www.drilldr.com
Internet Preview...To be debuted at the 1996 National Hardware/Builder
Show. Ask your favorite hardware store or builder supply if they'll 
be carrying the Drill Doctor®. 
Thanks,
Curt Anderson



From phabib@netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phabib@netcom.com (Philippe Habib)
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Message-ID: <phabibDtIIMv.LG8@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qc39l$rmg@nyx.cs.du.edu> <31C9BEA1.4D3C@ballard.ca.boeing.com> <4qh617$eua@nonews.col.hp.com>
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samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) writes:
>: convert a small gasoline engine to propane? Who would I contact about that? The

Call Garretson (817)924-1698.  They make kits to convert engines from
gasoline to either propane or natural gas.  They also make a version that
still lets you run from gasoline if you want.  Cost is about $200.



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <204@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com><4r0tot$brd@nyx.cs.du.edu>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:46:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Lines: 17

 
In article <4r0tot$brd@nyx.cs.du.edu>, Robert Galloway (rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu) writes:
>
>Have you given any consideration to opening up the crack with a hacksaw?  
>Not seing the crack, I can't get a feel for whether this would be 
>practical/desireable but I often find that "V"ing out or opening up 
>allows better cleaning and 100% penetration although I doubt penetration 
>will be a problem on a bicycle.
>
>rhg
>

This is a possibility - I was considering "Dremelling" a channel
along the crack, but I want to minimise the loss of material.  Of
course, if I save material but make a poor weld instead...

 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *





From brnzcast@sprynet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcast@sprynet.com (Winston W. Harness)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Date: 29 Jun 1996 12:54:43 GMT
Organization: Metal Casting Services
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <09960529075130.OUI81.brnzcast@sprynet.com>
References: <4r0obm$pmu@homer.alpha.net> <31D3FD9E.121@ix.netcom.com>
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When working with "oil-bonded" casting sands, a muller of some sort is
ABSOLUTELY necessary. This is due to the nature of the bonding agents.
Most commercial sand mullers are "loaded wheel" type mixer/mullers that
give a good grinding action during the cycle. For small batch operations
(like the hobby caster would need), an old cement mixer with some iron
weights added to the charge works OK but is slow. Mortar mixers also are
an option for small batches. Simple "shovel mulling" is NOT enough for
oil-bonded sands. I use a commercial Simpson wheel muller with 90 pound
wheels ... it will make batch or recycle sand in about 4 minutes. With
tumble or blade mixers, expect the cycle to take 20 to 30 minutes to
condition the sand. Don't add too much oil.

--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--



From nuke@netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nuke@netcom.com (Bill of Lading)
Subject: Turning grooves in faces CONCLUSION
Message-ID: <nukeDtL1D0.375@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 00:58:12 GMT
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Sender: nuke@netcom23.netcom.com

Thanks to all who emailed and posted advce about my project to turn a
small square-cross-section groove in a brass plate. The two
suggestions that were most helpful were to stiffen the tool position
as much as possible and to use lube. I used a tool holder that is
basically a solid block with a 1/2" groove and a coupla allen screws
on each side, and shimmed the tiny 3/8" tool to the right height with
a little piece of Al plate. This gave the tool a LOT of structural
rigidity, and I could tell from the start that it would work better
than the holder I had been using, the kind with a crescent-shaped
insert under the bit.

I accomplished the lubrication by filling an acid brush with 3-in-1
and holding it in the groove in the work about 90 degrees ahead of the
tool. This worked really well, and kept oil on the cut at all times,
without slopping it all over the place. I also used this method to
lubricate a parting cut, again with no problems whatsoever.

Thanks again to all who responded.

-B.
--
-- 
   (The above information is NOT TRUE; it is merely a harmless joke).
                      "It's VMS! Soylent NT is VMS!"
nuke@netcom.com                                           bmocweN lliB


From tlipton@ccnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help in mechanical design
Date: 29 Jun 1996 01:46:10 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
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> Here is a Stainless Steel stand I want to build.  I would like to make
> it out of square tubing, maybe 3/4".  The square tubing will be easier
> to cut and weld than round.  The two sides of the stand will each hold
> a container weighing approximately 150 lbs.  The two sides of the
> stand will share a common center set of legs.  On the bottom of each
> leg will be a leveler foot.
> Approximate dimenions are 24" high, 36" wide and 20" deep.
> 
> 
> My question is, how do I calculate what tubing size including wall
> thickness will be appropriate and will hold the weight it is destined
> to take plus an adequate safety margin?

  Their are many considerations is the analysis of a frame frame. 
The stand you have described in your post would easily support the load,
but in my opinion would be a little wobbly with three hundred pounds on it.
For your money go with the largest section size. If I was asked to design a similair stand
I would not even consider anything less than one and a half inches square for the tube. 
You can go with a light wall thickness like .06 and be okay. The compressive and bending loads on the stand
pale in comparison to the stability issue.
  The cost diffrence in the material is not bad to get a sturdy stand.


       Goood luck  TML



From jim35@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jim35@ix.netcom.com(JAMES R. DUNCAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:41:44 GMT
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 29 10:41:44 AM CDT 1996

I am working on a project that specifies using silver steel.  Does any
one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
substitute some other metal?
Jim Duncan......jim35@ix.netcom.com



From ben_arye@netvision.net.il Sun Jul  7 15:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ben_arye@netvision.net.il
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Dan Ben-Arya my next body of work
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 96 18:40:33 PDT
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Please visit my URL for the exhibition 
   

           "local heroes"

 http://aai.business.israel.net/dan2



From 70414.15@CompuServe.COM Sun Jul  7 15:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Mark Marks <70414.15@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 29 Jun 1996 16:35:13 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4r3m01$7b7$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de>

>It looks like SAVOY SCIENTIFIC,  P.O. Box 1398, Dept. I,  SANTA
>MONICA, CA
>90406 is selling plans for a jet engine for 15$
>Stefan
-----
Save your money and do *not* order the plans from Savoy 
Scientific.  That ad has been running in Popular Science Magazine 
since the 1950s.  About six months ago I posted inquiries on 
several online services about Savoy and found that nobody had been 
able to construct an engine from their plans.

I've seen postings on this forum from someone who has completed 
the Schreckling turbine -- it's your best bet.  

Mark Marks, Florida
1950s.  About six months ago I posted inquiries on several online 
services about Savoy and found that nobody had been able to 
construct an engine from the plans.

I've seen postings on this forum from someone who has completed 
the Schreckling turbine -- it's your best bet.  

Mark Marks, Florida


From davida05@sprynet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <davida05@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What is a MULLER?
Date: 29 Jun 1996 16:29:50 GMT
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a <MULLER> is a machine used in commerical foundries to process molding sand -= in other words, to mix the sand, water, and bonding material (usually clay). The typical mullere consists of two heavy steel rollers with flat edges that rotate in a circular path inside a heavy steel pan.  I would love to have a small one to use in my backyard foundry, but I've never seen a small one. My only technique is to prep the sand by hand using a garden hoe.  Getting the moisture content exactly right is crucial to good greensand molding.  Good luck! Dave


From ranson@infoave.Net Sun Jul  7 15:17:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ranson@infoave.Net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace
Subject: Call For Entries   New Categories
Date: 29 Jun 1996 16:56:04 GMT
Organization: SunBelt.Net INTERNET Access
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Call For Entries . . . Artsearch

Add your URL to our search site. The ArtSearch site is rapidly becoming a 
very popular search engine for Art and Crafts on the net.
We have just opened up NEW CATEGORIES by popular demand. The new categories 
are:
	Galleries
	Books
	Magazine
	Shows and Fairs
	Visual and performing Arts

If you would like to add your URL:   http://www.ro.com/artsearch/

We welcome your questions and comments.

ArtSearch Home Page   http://www.artsearch.net/artsearch

We have designed a new home page and would like to rotate artists work on the 
page. Send us a photo of you work and we will display it on our home page with 
credits and a link to your page. The images must be 75x75 pix, so an excellent 
photo is a must. We can scan the image for you if need be.

Ranson Johnson
artsrch@ro.com


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Putting a Thread on Sterling Silver Road
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 17:31:57 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <pevans.324.31D5688C@mindlink.bc.ca>
References: <4qumcp$1fv@soap.news.pipex.net>
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In article <4qumcp$1fv@soap.news.pipex.net> Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk> writes:


>Out of curiosity, shortly having to put a thread about 30mm long on some 
>3mm & 4mm dia sterling silver, which would be best, to a cut thread or to 
>roll the thread?

I'd say roll it - try taking it to a good bicycle store; they should have a 
hand-powered gadget for rolling spoke threads, and 4mm may not be too large.  
Rolling may be better 'cause silver work hardens.




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Broke tap off in hole - now what?
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 11:02:29 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <31D56FB5.64F6@ix.netcom.com>
References: <199@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4prrqq$6b0@spock.asic.sc.ti.com> <4qsudj$d6u@news.asu.edu> <DtoA7r.4HG@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4r0msg$434@tin.monsanto.com> <4r19ed$kfg@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <31D48CE8.375E@ix.netcom.com> <31D4B8A0.1444@rahul.net>
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To: Bernie New <bernien@rahul.net>

Bernie New wrote:
> 
> PPIERCE wrote:
> >
> > To find screw diameter (major diameter) of a machine screw
> >
> > Easier to get a table.
> >
> > Paul in AJ AZ
>  I was taught these
> sort of approximation techniques back when I was using a slide rule.
> 
> Bernie.

That was the nice thing about sliderules and Simpson VOMs.  You could 
see where you were going or had come from.

I hung up my Pickett (it was a yellow one) over 20 years ago when the first calculator 
with builtin trig tables came out for $17...

Have a $12 Casio on my workbench and one here at my computer desk.

Still use a VOM (analog - not digital).

Paul in AJ AZ


From mcovingt@ai.uga.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcovingt@ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.electronics.manufacture.circuitboard
Subject: Microlux drill press
Date: 29 Jun 1996 19:33:17 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
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Does anybody know anything about a miniature drill press made by Microlux
and sold by Techni-Tool for about $163?

It looks like just the thing for drilling printed circuit boards, as it will
do up to 6200 rpm.

The main question is whether it is precise and free from play or runout.
Has anyone used one?

--
Michael A. Covington                http://www.ai.uga.edu/faculty/covington/
Artificial Intelligence Center                                           <><
The University of Georgia                Unless specifically indicated, I am
Athens, GA 30602-7415 U.S.A.                not speaking for the University.


From raybre@ozemail.com.au Sun Jul  7 15:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: raybre@ozemail.com.au (Ray Breakwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 06:04:25 +1000
Organization: Bit of a shamble
Lines: 35
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In article <raybre-2406961803160001@slgos1p23.ozemail.com.au>,
raybre@ozemail.com.au (Ray Breakwell) wrote:

> G'day....
>    
> Found a bucket of car engine exhaust and intake valves at the scrap yard.
> Too good to waste, eh? Great steel!
> 
> What IS this steel that valves are made ?
> 
> How does it handle forging/annealing/re-hardening/re-tempering/ machining?
> 
> As I said above, too good to waste.  So what have some of you used engine
> valves for?
> 
> ANY comments on the above will be welcomed....either in this group or by
email.
> 
> 
> ....-Ray.  <  raybre@ozemail.com.au  >


And didn't I get some information! Thank you all those who replied in
email ( I answered all) and those who replied here......I _will_ take care
carving into potentially sodium filled valves. (never heard of 'em till
now!)

Catch you around.....

......-Ray.

-- 
" ...Perfect speed..is being there. " ...... Chiang.

"..The gull sees farthest who flies highest." ....... Sully.


From Postmaster@pjbma2.syntex.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Postmaster@pjbma2.syntex.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Japanese and Wootz? Huh???!
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 08:16:13 PDT
Organization: F. Hoffmann-La Roche
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> You seem to know quite alot about wootz, Damascus and Tahama (which I
> haven't heard of before).  Can you share a bit of this knowlege??
> 

Get the good doctor's books, available from many places - centaur forge, 
Lindsey, Norm Larson books.  He has 3:  "The Complete Bladesmith", "The Master 
Bladesmith", and "Pattern Welded Steel".  There is (obviously) some overlap 
between them but all are excellent sources for folks interested in blade 
making and related skills.

Joe



From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl14.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 29 Jun 1996 16:15:36 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4r4deo$eaq@crl14.crl.com>
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In article <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>,
JAMES R. DUNCAN <jim35@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I am working on a project that specifies using silver steel.  Does any
>one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
>substitute some other metal?
>Jim Duncan......jim35@ix.netcom.com
>

Drill rod.  Or precision ground flat stock.  Avalable at any industrial 
tool distributor - Travers, MSC, etc.  Comes in water, oil, and air 
hardening.  It is basically higher carbon steel that can be hardened.

JerryK


From davidc@intcomm.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidc@intcomm.net (David C. Herbert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: A place to find welding machinery parts and apparatus
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 23:30:27 GMT
Organization: Electro-Machinery & Electronics
Lines: 4
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See http://www.win.net/~emelec for a wide range of welding machinery
parts, apparatus, machinery and services.  Check into WMN to locate
even more goodies. 



From barronr@mail.erols.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!newsmaster@erols.com
From: Reginald Barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat 1--anyone actually seen something made w/ one?
Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:14:04 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4r3h7s$728@news10.erols.com>
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user@ns.net wrote:
>Has anyone out there had any positive experiences w/ the little
>'design-award' winning Unimat _1_?  (the one w/ the plastic collets and
>3-jaw. . .)
>
>(asender@ns.net)

No, but I would like to see one or hear about it also.
I have a couple of old Unimat SLs and they work fine 
for small stuff.  I wonder if any of the attachments
 on the new machine are compatible?

Reg Barron




From barronr@mail.erols.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.erols.com!newsmaster@erols.com
From: Reginald Barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: $? for used sherlines and unimats
Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:22:02 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 12
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user@ns.net wrote:
>How much do small hobbyist-type machines such as the Unimat 3 and Sherline
>lathes go for used, and where does one find them?

I haven't seen very many of those for sale, but once in a while
you may latch on to a Unimat SL for between $125 to maybe $200 with
the basic attachments.  A bit more (maybe $400) if it has a fair amount of 
extras.

Reg Barron




From drewid@lanminds.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC upgrade?
Date: 30 Jun 1996 00:58:03 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4r4jer$s0g@lanshark.lanminds.com>
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To: billg63475@aol.com
X-URL: news://news.lanminds.com/4r070r$lrs@newsbf02.news.aol.com

billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475) wrote:
 If money is  no object, then there are several CNC retrofit
>packages available to drive servos starting at about $11,000.00 for the
>control plus motors, encoders and installation.
>
>But if you are like most of the rest of us, MONEY is probably one of your
>biggest concerns.  You should give the guys at AhHa a call, they have a
>CNC retrofit kit that is open loop stepper based, and they have a model
>capable of driving large stepper motors (>2300 oz in) at 12 amps per
>phase.You can buy everything from them, or just the control if you can
>find some used motors somewhere as new motors are quite expensive.

[So, since money is a concern, how much does the AhHa kit cost, with and
 without the stepper motors? Does it include software capable of 
generating a tool-path from CAD data? Will it drive any 3-axis milling 
machine, or only certain models?]

>

Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!winternet.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 30 Jun 1996 00:29:46 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4r4hpq$6nv@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com><4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com> <31D4978D.1BA3@ix.netcom.com>
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In message <31D4978D.1BA3@ix.netcom.com> - PPIERCE
<PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:
:->
:->Scott Logan wrote:
:->> 
:->> In article <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, From
:->> lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak), the following was written:
:->> > I am having difficulty locating a tap and die for cutting acme
:->> > threads. I realize that most acme threads are cut on the lathe, but I
:->> > find it hard to believe that some specialty supplier does not sell a
:->> > tap and die for them.  Anyone have any pointers?
:->> 
:->> SOME Acme sizes are available from the usual suppliers, MSC, J&L, etc.
:->> For others, you may need to order one special-made.  Ask at the same
:->> places.
:->> 
:->
:->Just got the MSC sale book.  Page 31 has tandem (rough and finish on one shank) 
:->acme thread taps (rh or lh).
:->
:->Maybe their BIG book has dies...
:->
:->> > A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
:->> > on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?
:->> 
:->> With a tap.  I've heard of some folks making a very small internal
:->> threading tool, but it's not economical if you figure what your time is
:->> worth.

Many places have Acme taps, (J&L, MSC, DoAll, Production Tool, etc.)
and they ain't cheap, but I've never seen a die for Acme threads. All
the xternal Acme I've seen is either rolled thread, or cut on a lathe.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From zeke@connectnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.connectnet.com!usenet
From: zeke@connectnet.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cutting stock
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 01:11:08 GMT
Organization: CONNECTnet Internet Network Services (service provider)
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Hi,

I';ve been reading the Home Shop Machinists Handbook and thinking
about buying a Sherline lathe.  There are a series of projects at the
back of the book that go from basic to more difficult.  The fist
project is a pair of punches made out of 1/4" high-carbon hex stock.

Two questions...

1. Where do I find this material?

2. How do I cut it to 4.o6 inches as they recommend?  Is a hacksaw go

     enough?

The first operation is to face the end.  The .06 inches is left for
cleanup cuts, facing etc. 

Any help will be greatly appreciated...

Lou



From falkiner@interlog.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.interlog.com!news
From: Bob Falkiner <falkiner@interlog.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 21:01:33 -0400
Organization: RJF Home
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <31D5D1ED.63A4@interlog.com>
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net> <4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu> <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com> <31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <31c81c44.996490324@news.islandnet.com> <1996Jun25.063729.9645@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30563 sci.engr.chem:16147

Barry Workman wrote:
> 
> psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
> 
> >>Jens wrote:
> >>>
> >>> All this talk about tanks blowing up has me a little worried since I
> >>> keep my oxy/acet rig in my garage which is part of my house. SO.....
> >>> somebody please explain to me why oxygen causes instantaneous
> >>> combustion with oil (after all, we have O2 in the atmosphere but my
> >>> grease gun hasn't exploded recently).....snip...

The temperature at which things react with oxygen is highly dependent on the oxygen concentration, which is 
directly related to pressure.  It gets worse if there is any physical effect, transient or otherwize where a 
localized piece of equipment gets hotter, such as compressing a line up from room temp to 2500 psi suddenly.  
The outside steel surface doesn't get very hot, but the gas that got compressed inside of the tubing sure did!
do a quick calc and you'll be satisfied that you can reach temperatures that melt glass real easy. Not a 
problem if no combustables present, as the line fills are small mass and the energy will get dissipated easily. 

bottom line:  oxygen and anything that even remotely looks like a grease, hydrocarbon etc is really bad news
at 2500 psi. 

PS someone mentioned CO in scuba tanks.....this is also related as if not enough combustable present to go to 
CO2, then it will go to CO.

NO SHIT WARNING:  if you put combustables in an oxygen first stage regulator, you may find the regulator 
                  spindle embeded in the opposite wall of the lab, or in bodies along the flight path.


From rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us Sun Jul  7 15:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!uunet!inXS.uu.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!pen.k12.va.us!rbuxton
From: rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us (Richard Hal Buxton)
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Message-ID: <DtsDy4.v73@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 00:13:16 GMT
References: <09960529075130.OUI81.brnzcast@sprynet.com>
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 24

I have seen a small muller made for a high school shop that was
easy to make and worked like a charm.  I will try to explain
how it worked.  It consisted of a motor, shafting, pillow
blocks, and four round wire brushes the type usually mounted on
a grinder.  The brushes were mounted on the shafting which was
supported by pillow blocks.  The shaft was driven by the
motor.  A box was constructed around the wire brushes and there
was an opening at the top of the box and the bottom.  The
opening at the top was above the brushes and a side wall.  At
this point the rotation of the brushes was such that it drove
the sand downward out the bottom hole.  The sand had to go
between the brushes and the wall.  There was little space here,
as I recall the brushes touched the wall so the sand had to be
broken up by the brushes.  The sand had to be shoveled through
only once or twice because it was so "mulled" by the brushes.
As I said it was used in a school shop that was using Petro
Bond.  It worked great for breaking up the blackend sand and
mixing everything together.  It did an excellent job of mixing
in any additional oil that was added as well.  I am not sure
that it would do the job for water based sand where you needed
to equalize moisture throughout the pile, but it is great for
conditioning PetroBond.
For what it is worth!
Rick Buxton


From ncc@alaska.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!calvino.alaska.net!nntp.alaska.net!usenet
From: "Rex L." <ncc@alaska.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plastic Coating or ??
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 15:59:32 -0700
Organization: NCC
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My control yokes are badly cracked and have big chips in the plastic
coating.  They are metal based. I have some questions and would 
appreciate some advice.

Can the old plastic coating be removed and how should this be done?

Is there a way to put a new coating on the cleaned metal yokes such as 
plastic or some type of resin, or? and how should this be done?

Thanks,  Rex Lantz


From smega@en.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cloud9.net!newsfeed.direct.ca!op.net!en.com!usenet
From: Ed Smega <smega@en.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Smithy????
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 22:24:08 -0700
Organization: Exchange Network Services
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <31D60F78.13CB@en.com>
References: <cjohnson.15.00925D26@qco.qco.com> <4r18sn$aev@lurch.sccsi.com>
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> : Can anyone offer any opinions on the Smithy 3-in-1 tool. 

I bought a Smithy last fall and have mixed emotions about it.  Firstly, I 
must acknowledge they have an excellent customer service department.  
They have a hotline and can handle machining type questions from novices. 
 I have ordered spare parts and received them in a matter of days.  They 
seem to be an excellent outfit to do business with.

I am a novice at machining.  I do not want to fall into the trap of 
blaming the tool for my shortcomings.  I took a machining class at the 
local vocational high school and after having my hands on a bridgeport, 
even old beat up ones, it is hard to face the Smithy.  However you must 
keep the cost in mind.  Overall, I suppose it is a good value.  It is 
substantially less expensive than some lathes that are smaller and do not 
have a milling capability. 

My specific complaints would be that it is basically a metric machine so 
the index markings on the dials are not accurate to thousandths.  The 
milling head has very course down feed that is very clumsy to adjust and 
the table movements can not be locked in one axis if you are only moving 
it on the other axis.  The dial seems to be in milimeters.  I suppose to 
net it out, the lathe is ok, but if I had it to do over I would buy a 
mill separate from the lathe. 

I am certain that with time, one could learn to compensate and probably 
turn out fine work with this machine.

Ed Smega


From billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.fibr.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!news.tufts.edu!cam-news-feed5.bbnplanet.com!boffin.com!usenet
From: bfunk@bmn.net (Bill and Cindy Funk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 30 Jun 1996 03:54:49 GMT
Organization: Boffin Ltd. Burnsville, MN
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4r4tq9$2mt@iron.boffin.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47. <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
Reply-To: billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: cis1-d1.nas.boffin.com
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+


>    Is anybody interested in a consortium to build these?  I mean one group
>    doing turbine nozzles and turbines; another doing casings and shells; 
>    another doing impellors and spindles; etc....
>
>    
>
I'm interested in a consortium to build a turbine engine. 
I am planning on using it in a hybrid electric vehicle.
I am currently leaning toward a Tesla turbine due to 
it's simplicity.

I have access to solid modeling and rapid prototype casting, but 
the cost for a conventional (Savoy) turbine would be at least $200
in 20 pc lots.  I've also got a couple of old turbochargers and 
someone told me that you can use them to make a gas turbine engine.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: $? for used sherlines and unimats
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 21:38:14 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <31D604B6.163C@ix.netcom.com>
References: <user-2806960920470001@ppp3.ns.net> <4r3hmq$728@news10.erols.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Reginald Barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>

Reginald Barron wrote:
> 
> user@ns.net wrote:
> >How much do small hobbyist-type machines such as the Unimat 3 and Sherline

Look up Morton Machinery and/or Jim Harvey on the Web Pages.  They both
visit this group.

Paul in AJ AZ


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting stock
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 21:49:58 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 111
Message-ID: <31D60776.774B@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4r4k6l$o6f@news.connectnet.com>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 29 11:48:54 PM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: zeke@connectnet.com

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------68FC4A2A3700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

zeke@connectnet.com wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I';ve been reading the Home Shop Machinists Handbook and thinking
> about buying a Sherline lathe.  There are a series of projects at the
> back of the book that go from basic to more difficult.  The fist
> project is a pair of punches made out of 1/4" high-carbon hex stock.
> 
> Two questions...
> 
> 1. Where do I find this material?
> 
> 2. How do I cut it to 4.o6 inches as they recommend?  Is a hacksaw go
> 
>      enough?
> 
> The first operation is to face the end.  The .06 inches is left for
> cleanup cuts, facing etc.
> 
> Any help will be greatly appreciated...
> 
> Lou

1.  Try one of the suppliers who advertise in HSM.

2.  4.06 inches is probably 4-1/16.  Just rounded to two decimal points.  You could
    cut it to 5" if you want some facing practice. 

3.  I understand that Sherline puts out a nice book.

4.  Check out the Web Pages for Morton Machinery and/or Jim Harvey Racing Engines.
    They are both Sherline dealers.

5.  Subscribe to HSM and others...

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------68FC4A2A3700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
--------------68FC4A2A3700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="VILLAGE PRESS.txt"

VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------68FC4A2A3700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Content-Disposition: inline; filename="LINDSAY.txt"

Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------68FC4A2A3700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="MSC.txt"


Supplies, tools, etc.

MSC Industrial Supply Co.
Phone: 1-800-645-7270
FAX:   1-800-255-5067

Fantastic Service and Delivery

I ordered on Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!
--------------68FC4A2A3700--



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Auto Darking welding helmets
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 05:20:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <4r531c$ghh@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <31c6ceb2.39929024@santaclara01.news.internex.net> <4qb0hk$844@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <blake-2106960011200001@206.84.2.69> <31cb0c99.61137216@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 29 10:23:56 PM PDT 1996
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:

 The
>Hornell APC-V I have says it's equiv. to a #3 filter when lightened
>(i.e. the lense is ON, but not darkened by arc), a #5 when the lense
>is OFF, power is off), 

I have a Hornell unit too!  I have been very happy with it.  The unit
that I have does not have the side lenses, but I still like it just
fine.  When I bought it, the units with the side lenses had just been
introduced, and were not widely available.  As mentioned by the
original poster, the Hornell unit only has minimal shading when it is
turned on.  It is worth every penny.  




>and from 9-13 adjustible when darkened, of
>course, just like yours. There is a noticeable difference between #3 &
>#5 when in a poorly lighted area. This is another thing I like about
>the Hornells, that they lighten up further when you turn them ON. So
>they have 3 states, Lightened (when power is ON-#3), Normal (when
>power is OFF-#5), and Darkened (when power is ON and arc is struck
>#9-13). The book says that you can use either the ON or Normal state
>with torch welding. In all states, the UV & IR shield is working. If
>the Jackson lense doesn't get lighter when you power it on, maybe you
>want to try out a Hornell side by side.

>BTW, I got the Hornell hood that has the side lenses on it (not for
>weld viewing) which gives an added help in low light level since you
>get peripheral vision of your surroundings.





From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!esiee.fr!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Followup to Picking a MIG Welder, and Aluminum
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 05:29:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4r53i6$ghh@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4ql3s7$b1e@news2.h1.usa.pipeline.com>
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clyde9@usa.pipeline.com(clyde9) wrote:

>In the original post, I didn't ask for people to send email DIRECTLY to me,
>rather than here. But I prefer this, cuz my news reader is too hard to use,
>and I have to hunt and peck to find replies. Thanks again. 
> 
>clyde9

Get Free Agent from Forte.  It used to be free for download at
Forte.com.  I haven't checked recently.  This is one of the best news
readers around.  Commercial version is $45 or so.  

JMS



From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: need help tempering a spring
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 05:52:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 61
Message-ID: <4r54tk$13r@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4qm7bf$cjc@andromeda.rutgers.edu>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 30 12:56:04 AM CDT 1996
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clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu (Charles L. Rowe) wrote:

>         I have to duplicate a small helical compression spring.
>      So far, I have formed it to the proper shape, but how
>      do I temper it?  I have the usual home shop equipment
>      at my disposal - a propane torch and some quenching oil 8*) 
>       

There are many ways to answer this question.  There is a lot of open
territory since you have not specified what steel you used or much of
any thing else.  

Assuming that you have a high carbon steel, you should heat the steel
until it cannot be easily picked up by an electro-magnet.  This is
sometimes referred to cherry red heat, but it is much harder to
determine where cherry red is than it is to detect loss of magnetic
properties.  Be quick about this, because with a propane torch, you
will not eliminate oxygen and will start to cause black scale on the
wire.  

When the steel becomes non-magnetic, it has changed crystal structure
to one that is similar to 304 SS (non-magnetic stainless).  Make sure
that the whole piece looks the same color.  At this point you are now
ready to quench the steel.  I generally use water for this, but with
some steels that is too violent a quench.  The chart below lists
quench from least to most severe,

air		Least Severe
hot oil
oil
water
brine		
cold brine	Most Severe

There are any number of other solutions that you could quench in, but
water is one of the easiest to use.  If the quench is too severe, the
steel may fracture or shatter during quenching.  Test it first.  

After the quenching, we are now ready for tempering.  The steel is
very delicate after quenching, and can break like glass.  Tempering
lowers the peak hardness but adds toughness that is very important
with steel.  While the temperature is a little low, a common household
oven can temper the spring at >500F.  Higher temperatures are better.
The general range is 600F to 900F.  There are other ways to temper.

-  Observing the color of a polished section of the metal.
-  or  Drawing the part out of the quench bath before completely
chilling the part.
-  or  Placing the quenched spring in flaming oil ( >800 F).  

These last techniques are not easy to master on large parts or with
thin sections.  Nothing beats experience here.  If you have lots of
the metal, by all means, experiment.  If you have one piece and cannot
easily duplicate it, have a professional help you.  

J M Stuart

Engineer / Inventor / Patentee





From andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.net.uk!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!br13jl.demon.co.uk!andrewm
From: Andrew Mawson <andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 22:08:52 +0100
Organization: Mawson Megadoodle
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <IwzMSAAktZ1xEwnB@br13jl.demon.co.uk>
References: <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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In article <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>, jim35@ix.netcom.com
writes
>I am working on a project that specifies using silver steel.  Does any
>one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
>substitute some other metal?
>Jim Duncan......jim35@ix.netcom.com
>

Silver Steel is English for Drill Rod which is American for Silver Steel
! ! ! ! !

Andrew Mawson ------> andrewm@br13jl.demon.co.uk
Bromley, Kent, UK 0181-466-5582

<-------------Happiness is a fully ticked off list------------->


From shri@cs.umass.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!caen!umass.edu!kernighan.cs.umass.edu!shri
From: shri@cs.umass.edu (H.Shrikumar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 30 Jun 1996 02:49:17 GMT
Organization: CMPSCI Dept, UMass Amherst
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: eternity.cs.umass.edu


Hi,

I need to fabricate a home-brew version of a Porsche Special Tool to
support the weight of an engine block. (Porsche wants $850 for what is
but a bar and an eye bolt and a hex-nut!). I could use some pointers to
on a couple of questions that should be a real easy cookie to you
frequent fabricators.

The jig is basically a cantilever that rests on the fenders/wheel-well
on the two ends on wood blocks, and hangs the engine-block by its
lifting hook in the middle.

        20in                    32in
  ----------------+------------------------------
  ####            O                          ####
  ####          350lb                        ####
  ####                                       ####
wood block,    eye-bolt in angle-iron bar, wood-block


1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
engine block up safely?

2. How much would the beam flex under load? (I need to able to correct
for that by tightening the hex-nut on the eyebolt).

Thanx in advance for an answer, or any pointers to a formula, or a good
handbook that might have tables or formulae that I can apply quickly?

3. What is the best way to orient the L-section ?

I am guessing this would be the strongest, given that the load is going
to hang at about 10 degrees off the vertical slanting down towards the
left in this cross section (side) view (with 1/2in hole for the
eye-bolt):

               +-- | ---
               |
               |
               |

Or is my qualitative reasoning very much in need of sobering up ?

Thanx very much in advance !!


--//Shrikumar

'82 924 - "EA 425 Fahrvergnuegen"
shri@cs.umass.edu



From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp028-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 00:36:58 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <alshinn-3006960036580001@ppp028-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47. <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r4tq9$2mt@iron.boffin.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp028-sf2.sirius.com
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <4r4tq9$2mt@iron.boffin.com>, billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com wrote:


> I'm interested in a consortium to build a turbine engine. 
> I am planning on using it in a hybrid electric vehicle.
> I am currently leaning toward a Tesla turbine due to 
> it's simplicity.
> 
> I have access to solid modeling and rapid prototype casting, but 
> the cost for a conventional (Savoy) turbine would be at least $200
> in 20 pc lots.  I've also got a couple of old turbochargers and 
> someone told me that you can use them to make a gas turbine engine.

Those are both interesting subjects! I thought that a tesla turbine was
steam driven. Do you have other ideas? What would you use for a combustion
chamber/ plenum for the turbocharger engine?


From jamo@voyager.co.nz Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!insync!news.azstarnet.com!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!OzEmail!OzEmail-In!news
From: jamo@voyager.co.nz (James Craig)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Test, please disregard
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 10:46:49 GMT
Organization: OzEmail Pty Ltd - Australia
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <4r5pec$c2j@reader1.reader.news.ozemail.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 203.21.28.74
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Test, please disregard
jamo@voyager.co.nz



From ernielein@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!en.com!laslo.netnet.net!ppp-oneida-7
From: cjfred@netnet.net (C.J. Frederick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 96 15:56:12 GMT
Organization: NetNet, Inc.
Lines: 82
Message-ID: <4r3jms$b5s_001@ppp-oneida-7.netnet.net>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: ernielein@aol.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.70.69.9
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
   ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) wrote:
->Path: 
laslo.netnet.net!en.com!news.erinet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!un
iserve!
news.sol.net!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!sw
rinde!h
owland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf0
2.news.
aol.com!not-for-mail
->From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
->Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
->Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
->Date: 28 Jun 1996 03:37:56 -0400
->Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
->Lines: 34
->Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
->Message-ID: <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
->References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
->Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
->NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
->Status: N
->
->djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) asked about 
how to
->prep a crack in a bike frame before TIG welding :
->
->Try a super solvent, like Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I know it is really 
nasty
->stuff, but it will disolve any dirt and grease.
->On a safer note you could try one of the new citrus cleasers.
->I use the ZEP citrus cleaner. It is incredibly powerful, and safe.

Plain acetone works well.  It is one of the few solvents that 
doesn't 
leave a residue during welding.  The process I use to repair cracks 
is:

1. Clean surfaces on and around crack of paint, mill scale (with an 
abrasive if present), dirt and anythink else that could find its way 
into 
the weld area when heat is applied.  The weld joint and surounding 
area 
should be clean enough to lick.

2. Flush the cleaned area with acetone one last time and wipe down 
with a 
clean lint free cloth.  If heat will not upset any metalurgical 
properties, 
heat the area with a propane torch or the TIG torch set at low 
amperage.  
This will drive off the acetone from inside the crack and show if 
any 
contaminants remain.  This is especially a problem where lubricants 
are 
present.

3. Grind out the crack.  Even on thin materials, take the edge of a 
cut-off 
wheel or router and grind out the crack as best as you can.  You 
don't 
necessarily have to grind through to create an "open" joint.  This 
may be 
undesireable, but by removing the crack face, complete penetration 
is 
insured and contaminants in the weld crack are removed.  "Vee" out 
heavy materials.  Grind past the end of the visual crack to make 
sure it is 
all removed.

4. Place a few tack weld along long cracks.  This will maintain 
allighnment 
and reduce distortion.  Weld slightly past the end of you joint prep 
to 
make sure all the crack was fused.  Don't be suprized if crud boils 
out of 
the crack ahead of your weld.  Guess what?  More cleaning and prep 
required.  Fill all weld creaters.

5. Congradulate yourself on a professional repair.




From ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!hookup!vertex.tor.hookup.net!apollo.isisnet.com!ccn.cs.dal.ca!ac258
From: ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pewter repair
Date: 30 Jun 1996 10:17:11 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4r5k77$lec@apollo.isisnet.com>
References: <4qgdbg$8ll@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccn.cs.dal.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

TAREX (tarex@aol.com) wrote:
: Have a fine German pewter mug.  Bottom (pewter, not one of those glass
: ones) started to leak.  Took it to a local jeweler for repair, but they
: somewhat botched the job (may have even used lead solder...).  Worse yet,
: it still leaks.

: Any suggestions regarding repair.  I am damned near dehydration, as that
: mug was coffee in the morning and ice-cold rum and Coke in the evening.

: Regards,

: TAREX@aol.com

I would go looking for a place that was in the business of making pewter 
items and would be doing pewter soldering as a matter of course. Strange 
that the jeweller would not have tested his repair before he gave it back 
to you.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From davidp@wolfenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!usenet
From: davidp@wolfenet.com (David P. Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 15:23:56 GMT
Organization: Digital Designs
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4r62gb$vum@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
Reply-To: davidp@wolfenet.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: sea-ts1-p04.wolfenet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) wrote:


>Whatever process is suggested would have to involve dipping the
>parts in jars, or similar - I have no access to exotic machinery
>or industrial cleaning plant.

	The suggestion for acetone, or MEK is probably your best bet, a good
blowing out with compressed air after cleaning will usually evaporate
the solvent, and show you where the crack actually ends.  The one
thing no one seemed to mention that we commonly do with cracks on
tooling in aerospace is stop drilling the crack, just drill a small
hole (somewhere between .125 and .250 dia. ) where the crack ends, and
then fill it with weld when you weld the crack. Otherwise, even if
your weld holds up, the crack will continue to grow above it!

Dave





>David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
>***********************************************************************
>* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
>* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *






From Rivendell@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.fibr.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.asu.edu!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dacom.co.kr!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: PAUL CAREW <Rivendell@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need conversion/drilling chart for taps
Date: 30 Jun 1996 14:49:22 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4r645i$4g3@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.newark-2.nj.dial-access.att.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.22ATT (Windows; U; 16bit)

 Hi, I have just purchased about three pounds of assorted taps at a flea 
market, and they did not come with a chart for drilling hole sizes or 
conversion to metric or standard measurements.  They say things like 10-32 
on them; I have never used this format.  If someone could tell me where I 
could find a chart for this system, possibly on line, I would be very 
thankful and much in debt to them.  Also please respond via e-mail for I 
rarely get to check my newsgroups.

Thank you again,

Paul Carew



From writt@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microlux drill press
Date: 30 Jun 1996 10:36:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 19
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4r63d6$ngg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <4r40dt$rh8@hobbes.cc.uga.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <4r40dt$rh8@hobbes.cc.uga.edu>, mcovingt@ai.uga.edu (Michael
Covington) writes:

>Does anybody know anything about a miniature drill press made by Microlux
>and sold by Techni-Tool for about $163?
>
>It looks like just the thing for drilling printed circuit boards, as it
will
>do up to 6200 rpm.
>
>The main question is whether it is precise and free from play or runout.
>Has anyone used one?
>
>

I have not personally used this drill press, but, I'm told that it is very
precise. Micro-Mark has it on sale for $139.95 until Sept. 15.

Bill Rittner


From hollen@vigra.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 15:11:31 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <ncg27dnx7g.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
References: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: calvin.vigra.com
In-Reply-To: shri@cs.umass.edu's message of 30 Jun 1996 02:49:17 GMT
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1

>>>>> "H" == H Shrikumar <shri@cs.umass.edu> writes:

H> I need to fabricate a home-brew version of a Porsche Special Tool to
H> support the weight of an engine block. (Porsche wants $850 for what is
H> but a bar and an eye bolt and a hex-nut!). 

H> 1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
H> (from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
H> engine block up safely?

I suspect that you will do some welding on this??  If so, do NOT get
galvanized.  First, it is VERY hard to weld on, and second it emits
large quantities of very toxic smoke when heated to welding
temperatures.  Sorry I don't know anything about the strength.

dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From plumpe@innova.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!peach!plumpe
From: plumpe@innova.net (Dave & Ellen Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Stirling Engines? [Was:Sterling Question]
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 96 17:03:34 GMT
Organization: America.Net, P.O. Box 1222, Alpharetta, GA 30239-1222
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4r6c13$s1g@peach.america.net>
References: <4qvsv1$9r@news.chatlink.com> <4r1eth$frg_003@FUNGUS.LLAN>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm3-2.innova.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.0 Beta #0
Keyword: Stirling

In article <4r1eth$frg_003@FUNGUS.LLAN>, gwhite@ll.mit.edu (Doug White) wrote:

>Does anyone know if there are any particular problems in scaling a 
>Stirling engine down in size?  I was thinking of building something on 
>the order of a Cox .010 model airplane engine, but based on a Stirling 
>cycle.
>
>I have heard of people at the big model engineering show exhibiting 
>really tiny, high-speed Stirling engines, and Stirling engines that 
>would run off the heat of your hand.  Does anyone know of any magazine 
>articles describing such designs?
>
        I'd think it'd be extremely difficult to build a successful small 
bore, low temp Stirling engine.  Power piston pressures are very low at low 
temps.  Low pressures & small bore mean very low forces, so friction has to be 
vanishingly small.
        I have plans & some materials for Jerry Howell's "Miser" low-temp 
Stirling engine, which he says will run over 90rpm when hand-held.  Power 
piston is 5/8" bore and made of graphite for low friction.  Displacer piston 
is approx 6"dia.  C'shaft is supported on ball bearings.  The smallest 
Stirling engine listed in his catalog is the "Mini Stirling Fan" with 0.4" 
bore.  Says it runs 900rpm on alcohol lamp.

-Dave P.


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Calamari
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 05:21:20 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <31d0bc7e.9559095@news.value.net>
References: <4qeg72$6p3@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: k71.value.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

On 21 Jun 1996 08:47:46 -0700, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:

>	Hello gang! I've embarked on a little manufacturing scheme to 
>make some mini-Trebuchets. Some of the essential components include short
>pieces of polyethylene tubing, measuring 1in. i.d., about 1in. long, with 
>a 1/8in. wall (this is the transparent hose sold by the foot in hardware 
>stores). It's too thick to cut with snips and too floppy to cut with a 
>radial arm saw. I'd like to get some recommendations on how to cut it 
>square, with a minimum of swarf. Suggestions??
>	TIA,
>-- 
>	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Learning to say NO is harder 	
>	COMING SOON		:	than learning to say YES...
>	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
>		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>	
Tube on 1" dia spud in six jaw or 1- 1/4 collet. Part off one each in
lathe with 1/32 wide parting tool blade... good hook...very
sharp...very fast....use six inch with drill guage as stop...or second
opp other end for precision length. Or have your local butcher cut
them up in his radial knife... good to about 1" long.   ;{)   ...just
kidding.
Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for EMCO phone/address
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 03:40:08 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <31d0afda.6323201@news.value.net>
References: <1996Jun17.115920.1@aspen> <Dt9oM5.MHA@cruzio.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: k78.value.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

On Wed, 19 Jun 1996 21:49:17 GMT, "Frank J. Mihm"
<fmihm@mail.cruzio.com> wrote:

>rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu wrote:
>>	Does anyone have the address or phone number for EMCO?
>>	Looking to upgrade cnc millers and lathes that we have.
>>	Dave
>
>Dave --
>
>I don't have their number, but here are three good sources for finding names, 
>addresses and phone numbers:
>
>1) InfoSpace -- they have 110 million listings of business and residential phone 
>numbers, fax numbers, 800-numbers, government phone and fax numbers, etc.  They 
>expect to add email addresses 'real soon now'.
>
>        http://www.infospaceinc.com/
>
>2) Switchboard -- they have 90 Million residential and business phone listings.
>
>        http://www.switchboard.com/
>
>3) Thomas Register -- the online version of the wonderful reference source that 
>lists manufacturers and their products.  You can search by company name or product 
>class.  The data includes the phone numbers, fax numbers and zip codes (better than 
>the printed book!) and you can copy/paste!
>
>You must 'register' initially, but usage is free.
>
>        http://www.thomasregister.com/finder/gate1.html
>
>Good luck in your search.
>
>                        Frank
>
>
Rathlesberger and Associates 
Distributors for  EMCO MAIER manual machine tools:

230 Ridgeway Road
 Woodside, CA 94062

PHN 415-367-1296
FAX 415-369-4788

Howard Rathlesberger is the man...

Tell him I sent you...

VTY
Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From johnd@islandnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Linear encoders.
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 18:07:38 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4r6fgu$4k5@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i1-39.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Some of the DROs for milling machines in the various catalogues are
listed as having a resolution of 0.00015"/12".  Given that standard
slotted opto devices have a slot about 0.020" wide,  how do these more
accurate linear scales work?

I can fathom that a strip of glass has been metalized,  then a mill or
a shaper type machine scratches marks every 0.0004, in two rows to
give the biphase - quadrature output but does that mean the slot on
the sensor is also only 0.0004" wide.  Does it let any light in?  Is
the LED transmitting the signal really really bright.  What about
defraction in such a narrow slit?

Anyone had one apart to see how it works?

Thanks,

John.

Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From megavolt@io.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.io.com!dialup-01-199.austin.io.com!user
From: megavolt@io.com (John Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 30 Jun 1996 20:46:54 GMT
Organization: Mega Volt Neon, Inc.  Austin, TX
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <megavolt-3006961555050001@dialup-01-199.austin.io.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-01-199.austin.io.com

I use lots of .040 pre-finished aluminum.  It comes in 4x10' sheets, and
I've been trying to reduce my reliance on outside metal shops simply to
cut pieces to size.

I've got a panel saw in which I've put a rather fine-tooted circular saw
blade (7 1/4").  It makes an acceptable cut on one side, but a horrible on
on the other side (a continuous, ugly "burr").  Don't really have a
precise method to check, but alignment seems good.

My question is if there is a way to get a good cut with a circular saw
blade on sheet aluminum.  The blade I'm using is an inexpensive one -
carbon steel with probably 10-11 tpi.  It's the only thing I've seen sold
for aluminum cutting.  I have the blad set to penetrate the material about
1/4 inch.  If there's something better for this application I'd love to
know about it.

Thanks for any help.

   -John Anderson


From zzsbtafe@mailbox.uq.edu.au Sun Jul  7 15:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au!mailbox
From: zzsbtafe@mailbox.uq.edu.au (Russell Horswood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Good brands of small taps and dies
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 03:21:41 GMT
Organization: University of Queensland
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4r89jm$pcd@hobyah.cc.uq.oz.au>
Reply-To: zzsbtafe@mailbox.uq.edu.au (Russell Horswood)
NNTP-Posting-Host: zzsbtafe.slip.cc.uq.oz.au

I'm coming to the U.S.A. later in the year and I need to find out which 
are good brands of small taps and dies. The sizes needed are 0-12 in 
U.N.F. and U.N.C. As I'm from Australia I don't know which are America's 
best brands. Any advice will be appeciated.  Thanks in advance. 
Russ.Horswood


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 30 Jun 1996 21:29:40 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4r6rk4$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <raybre-2406961803160001@slgos1p23.ozemail.com.au> <rich_klopp-2406960836230001@128.18.30.31> <4qn95j$32t@crl2.crl.com> <4qqidd$ks4@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4qshue$199@crl4.crl.com>
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Wasn't kerosene the fluid of choice for storing sodium in the chem lab in 
highschool 55 years ago?

"CC"



From rpcoyle@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rpcoyle@ix.netcom.com(Bob Coyle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Substitute for Cyanide in Metal Plating?????
Date: 30 Jun 1996 20:42:42 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4r6os2$he5@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: scz-ca5-12.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 30  1:42:42 PM PDT 1996

I have beeen doing some simple copper and nickel Electroplating.
I would like to do some brass plating also but all of the formulas
I find include some form of cyanide.

I tried a couple of plating solutions using tartaric acid or oxalic
acid as a complexing agent but the results were not good.

Does anyone know of a good substitute for cyanide that would give me a
nice even plate ????


Bob Coyle 




From ernielein@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!laslo.netnet.net!ppp-oneida2-16
From: cjfred@netnet.net (C.J. Frederick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 96 21:03:26 GMT
Organization: NetNet, Inc.
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Message-ID: <4r6q2u$b5s_001@ppp-oneida2-16.netnet.net>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: ernielein@aol.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.70.69.39
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
   ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) wrote:
->Path: 
laslo.netnet.net!en.com!news.erinet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!un
iserve!
news.sol.net!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!sw
rinde!h
owland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf0
2.news.
aol.com!not-for-mail
->From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
->Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
->Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
->Date: 28 Jun 1996 03:37:56 -0400
->Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
->Lines: 34
->Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
->Message-ID: <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
->References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
->Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
->NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
->Status: N
->
->djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) asked about 
how to
->prep a crack in a bike frame before TIG welding :
->
->Try a super solvent, like Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I know it is really 
nasty
->stuff, but it will disolve any dirt and grease.
->On a safer note you could try one of the new citrus cleasers.
->I use the ZEP citrus cleaner. It is incredibly powerful, and safe.

Plain acetone works well.  It is one of the few solvents that 
doesn't 
leave a residue during welding.  The process I use to repair cracks 
is:

1. Clean surfaces on and around crack of paint, mill scale (with an 
abrasive if present), dirt and anythink else that could find its way 
into 
the weld area when heat is applied.  The weld joint and surounding 
area 
should be clean enough to lick.

2. Flush the cleaned area with acetone one last time and wipe down 
with a 
clean lint free cloth.  If heat will not upset any metalurgical 
properties, 
heat the area with a propane torch or the TIG torch set at low 
amperage.  
This will drive off the acetone from inside the crack and show if 
any 
contaminants remain.  This is especially a problem where lubricants 
are 
present.

3. Grind out the crack.  Even on thin materials, take the edge of a 
cut-off 
wheel or router and grind out the crack as best as you can.  You 
don't 
necessarily have to grind through to create an "open" joint.  This 
may be 
undesireable, but by removing the crack face, complete penetration 
is 
insured and contaminants in the weld crack are removed.  "Vee" out 
heavy materials.  Grind past the end of the visual crack to make 
sure it is 
all removed.

4. Place a few tack weld along long cracks.  This will maintain 
allighnment 
and reduce distortion.  Weld slightly past the end of you joint prep 
to 
make sure all the crack was fused.  Don't be suprized if crud boils 
out of 
the crack ahead of your weld.  Guess what?  More cleaning and prep 
required.  Fill all weld creaters.

5. Congradulate yourself on a professional repair.




From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-5.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source of thin spring steel
Date: 30 Jun 1996 22:05:08 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4r6tmk$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <4qus9s$2nb@apollo.isisnet.com>
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Harvey Freeman asked about spring steel rod---

First choice--spring steel mobile antenna
Second choice--Nolan Supply Corp. in Syracuse (800-736-2204) has flat 
spring steel and presumably could suppy rod

I got 5/8th by .060" flat stock for loco springs on my 2 1/2"/ft. 
projects.

"CC"



From mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!malgudi.oar.net!news.muohio.edu!miavx1.muohio.edu!mundayde
From: mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David Munday)
Newsgroups: rec.aviation.homebuilt,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do YOU make round washer-shaped 4130 parts?
Date: 30 Jun 96 18:30:00 -0500
Organization: Miami University
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <1996Jun30.183000@miavx1>
References: <31CDF588.41C6@sgi.com> <4qn36g$9n1@news2.texas.net> <1996Jun25.141259@miavx1> <greg.835838582@gtravis>
NNTP-Posting-Host: miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.aviation.homebuilt:35189 rec.crafts.metalworking:30593

In article <greg.835838582@gtravis>, greg@indiana.edu (Gregory Travis) writes:
> mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (David Munday) writes:
> 
>>That's more or less what we did to make washers to reinforce the elongated gear 
>>attach fittings on the chapter champ.
> 
>>The bolt was chucked up in a lathe though.
> 
> Doesn't the heat of sanding tend to ruin the temper of the steel?
> 
> "or are you just REALLY patient?" greg

And welding it on won't?  Actually we didn't sand it we cut it.

-- 
Dave Munday  -  mundayde@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu  -  munday@nku.edu
Web Page:  http://ourworld.compuserve.com:80/homepages/munday
PP-ASEL  -  Tandem Flybaby Builder  -  EAA-284 (Waynesville, OH)
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who do not.


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 30 Jun 1996 22:39:29 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4r6vn1$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
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I think that if you and a couple of buddies were to stand on the loading 
point ofsuch a bar, you would not feel safe.

Go see an engineering instructor at your institution for some design 
information.  There is good information in the Machinerys Handbook and in 
any steel manual but if you are starting from scratch, it easier to ask 
someone already there.

If you can see one of these crutches, you could get some idea of the 
parts sizes.

Good luck.

"CC"



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 30 Jun 1996 22:44:13 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4r6vvt$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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Silver steel is the British term for high carbon steel--drill rod and 
various other like O-1 and O-2 etc.  Probably anything over 1045 would be 
fine.  These are all temperable steels

"CC"



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Date: 30 Jun 1996 22:48:42 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4r708a$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <4r0obm$pmu@homer.alpha.net> <31D3FD9E.121@ix.netcom.com> <09960529075130.OUI81.brnzcast@sprynet.com>
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Shucks, I thought thata muller was used to make an Old Fashioned.  Same 
operation except on sugar!  :-)

"CC"



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Linear encoders.
Date: 30 Jun 1996 22:52:12 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4r70es$buv@news.whidbey.com>
References: <4r6fgu$4k5@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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How about a diffraction grating with optical diodes readin the 
interferometer patern?

"CC"



From ghayden@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!not-for-mail
From: Greg Hayden <ghayden@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need conversion/drilling chart for taps
Date: 30 Jun 1996 17:14:04 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <318FE7DF.4D76@primenet.com>
References: <4r645i$4g3@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
X-Posted-By: ip202.ocn.primenet.com
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To: PAUL CAREW <Rivendell@worldnet.att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

PAUL CAREW wrote:
> 
>  Hi, I have just purchased about three pounds of assorted taps at a flea
> market, and they did not come with a chart for drilling hole sizes or
> conversion to metric or standard measurements.  They say things like 10-32
> on them; I have never used this format.  If someone could tell me where I
> could find a chart for this system, possibly on line, I would be very
> thankful and much in debt to them.  Also please respond via e-mail for I
> rarely get to check my newsgroups.
> 
> Thank you again,
> 
> Paul Carew
I keyed " tap drill sizes" into Alta Vista and found this site:

http://www.widell.com/drillsiz.html

Looks to me like this will suit your needs.
-- 
Greg Hayden
Another Merchant Marine Page
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/1965/


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: source for polishing compound needed
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 17:31:42 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I am polishing carbon steel and need a source for an aggresive compound 
and a buffing wheel, preferably in Seattle. E-mail response's please. 
Thanks ---------- Bill


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ott.istar!istar.net!van.istar!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!alph02.triumf.ca!shoppa
From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 1 Jul 1996 00:28:15 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4r762v$kms@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
References: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>,
H.Shrikumar <shri@cs.umass.edu> wrote:
>1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
>(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
>engine block up safely?

Maybe, but I wouldn't count on it.  I just walked over to a 1/8" x 1.5"
x 1.5" x 72" CRS angle I have lying here, and found that if I support it at
the ends and press down at the center with 50 pounds or so of force
that it droops about 1/2".  If this piece didn't buckle under
the 350lb load, it would almost certainly be drooping considerably at
the center (probably with a twist, too.)  

I would *highly* recommend that
you find a section of I-beam for this application.  Take a look
at some engine hoists to get an idea of the size you'd need.  Even
better, think about renting an engine hoist for the few days you'll
need it.  If you look at typical engine hoists, they are *far* beefier
than the design you are proposing.

If you do decide to roll your own, don't risk your safety with ordinary
Grade 2 hardware.  Spend the few extra cents to get Grade 8.  If
the hardware isn't marked, it's Grade 2, and shouldn't be considered
at all for any dangerous loads.  (Just out of principle I no longer
use any Grade 2 hardware for anything!)

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From daveb@iinet.net.au Sun Jul  7 15:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.uoregon.edu!disco.iinet.net.au!opera.iinet.net.au!news
From: daveb@iinet.net.au (David R Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:07:11 GMT
Organization: iiNet Technologies
Lines: 60
Message-ID: <4r74ds$rqq@opera.iinet.net.au>
References: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grunge228.nv.iinet.net.au
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

shri@cs.umass.edu (H.Shrikumar) wrote:


>Hi,

>I need to fabricate a home-brew version of a Porsche Special Tool to
>support the weight of an engine block. (Porsche wants $850 for what is
>but a bar and an eye bolt and a hex-nut!). I could use some pointers to
>on a couple of questions that should be a real easy cookie to you
>frequent fabricators.

>The jig is basically a cantilever that rests on the fenders/wheel-well
>on the two ends on wood blocks, and hangs the engine-block by its
>lifting hook in the middle.

>        20in                    32in
>  ----------------+------------------------------
>  ####            O                          ####
>  ####          350lb                        ####
>  ####                                       ####
>wood block,    eye-bolt in angle-iron bar, wood-block


>1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
>(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
>engine block up safely?

>2. How much would the beam flex under load? (I need to able to correct
>for that by tightening the hex-nut on the eyebolt).

>Thanx in advance for an answer, or any pointers to a formula, or a good
>handbook that might have tables or formulae that I can apply quickly?

>3. What is the best way to orient the L-section ?

>I am guessing this would be the strongest, given that the load is going
>to hang at about 10 degrees off the vertical slanting down towards the
>left in this cross section (side) view (with 1/2in hole for the
>eye-bolt):

>               +-- | ---
>               |
>               |
>               |

>Or is my qualitative reasoning very much in need of sobering up ?

IMHO, an L-section, no matter how oriented, would be far too weak. Per
your drawing, even were the ends solidly clamped (not just resting on
the blocks), the bar will twist, and almost certainly buckle under the
load you mention. 
 Most applications of this sort would use an I-section beam, so that
the upper & lower webs are in compression & tension. I must leave it
to those more knowledgeable to determine the correct size (there are
indeed standard tables, but I don't have them).
 You won't need to weld it: just drill 2 holes in the lower web (1
each side of the central "fin"), and put in a U-bolt. Put the load
accurately under that central fin.




From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!DHOLLY
From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Linear encoders.
Date: 1 Jul 1996 02:29:02 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <4r7d5e$j00@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <4r6fgu$4k5@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
Reply-To: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pslc.psl.wisc.edu

In article <4r6fgu$4k5@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer) writes:
>Some of the DROs for milling machines in the various catalogues are
>listed as having a resolution of 0.00015"/12".  Given that standard
>slotted opto devices have a slot about 0.020" wide,  how do these more
>accurate linear scales work?
>
>I can fathom that a strip of glass has been metalized,  then a mill or
>a shaper type machine scratches marks every 0.0004, in two rows to
>give the biphase - quadrature output but does that mean the slot on
>the sensor is also only 0.0004" wide.  Does it let any light in?  Is
>the LED transmitting the signal really really bright.  What about
>defraction in such a narrow slit?
>

The typical glass scale encoder indeed may have stripes that are on the
order of 0.0004 inches wide. The slits are photoetched in the metal,
which is typically chrome on glass. The reason that the light through
the slit is not vanishingly small is that many slits are used in
parallel. The LED light source is collimated by a lens so that it
puts out a parallel beam which is much wider than the slit spacing.
After passing through the scale rulings, it passes through another
set of "analyzer" rulings, then to the photosensor. Like passing
the fingers of two hands in front of each other. As the scale
moves a distance equal to the ruling spacing, the sensor light signal
goes from maximum to minimum and back to maximum, even though
the sensor picks up light from a large area. This not only allows
lot of light through, it also averages over any irregularities
in individual slits.

A second set of analyzer rulings is offset 1/4 of the slit spacing,
as you suggest, to give the quadrature signal. This is usually
photoetched on the same piece of glass as the other analyzer rulings,
so no special alignment is needed. Actually, four sets of rulings
are sometimes used in the analyzer, along with four photosensors,
to make the processing easier.

If the rulings are well-made, the photosensor outputs are sinusoidal
as the encoder scale is moved. This makes it possible to interpolate
electronically and get resolution about 100 times finer than the
ruling spacing.


                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From fayguyma@execpc.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!daily-planet.execpc.com!usenet
From: Guy Fay <fayguyma@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique Engine show ?
Date: 1 Jul 1996 02:48:54 GMT
Organization: Exec-PC BBS - Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4r7eam$t5c@daily-planet.execpc.com>
References: <4q9668$53k@news.sanders.lockheed.com> <DtCsI8.ApJ@cruzio.com> <4qmk61$kh6@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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For others, and for future reference, Stemgas Publishing puts out the 
Steam and Gas Show Directory.  They have I web page, but I don't have the 
adress handy.  Search on Stemgas.  



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Linear encoders.
Date: 1 Jul 1996 03:13:00 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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John Dammeyer (johnd@islandnet.com) wrote:
: Some of the DROs for milling machines in the various catalogues are
: listed as having a resolution of 0.00015"/12".  Given that standard
: slotted opto devices have a slot about 0.020" wide,  how do these more
: accurate linear scales work?

: I can fathom that a strip of glass has been metalized,  then a mill or
: a shaper type machine scratches marks every 0.0004, in two rows to
: give the biphase - quadrature output but does that mean the slot on
: the sensor is also only 0.0004" wide.  Does it let any light in?  Is
: the LED transmitting the signal really really bright.  What about
: defraction in such a narrow slit?

The linear encoders use a glass scale, nickel plated in a vacuum coating
machine, and then photoetched with a fine series of lines.  Since a
quadrature encoder produces 4 edges/ cycle, the .0005" encoder has line
spacing of .002" (500 lines/inch), and the .0001" scale has 2500
lines/inch.  The readout has two identical gratings, one offset by 1/4
of the scale pitch from the other.  These receive light in varying
amounts, depending on how the reader grating aligns with the scale.  You
get two sine waves, 90 degrees out of phase form the sensors behind the
gratings.  These are read by 2 comparators, to give 2 square waves 90
degrees out of phase.  Using a grating with many tiny slits that are either
in phase or out of phase with the scale makes it work.  As you suspected,
making a single slit would not work.


From steveobg@pulsenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!dns.pulsenet.com!news
From: steveobg@pulsenet.com (Steve-o)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plans wanted
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 03:24:03 GMT
Organization: PulseNET
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NNTP-Posting-Host: pm1_p5.pulsenet.com
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Evening all,

 I am wondering if anyone could send me a copy of the "gearless hit or
miss engine" -parts 2 & 4. I would be glad to reimburse copying and
postage expences. 

e-mail to: steveobg@pulsenet.com

This was in "the Home Shop Machinist" starting with the may/june 1993
issue.
I fed the engineer, then I ran!



From klaas@uniface.nl Sun Jul  7 15:17:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.bright.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!sun4nl!knoware.nl!usenet
From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: [Q] Look for simple high temp (1800 C) rated refractory
Date: 1 Jul 1996 13:01:18 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Currently I use YTONG (air-spaced gypsum inner wall blocks, normally
not designed to be used as refractory, but it works excellent) as
refractory for a furnace holding a crucible for melting metals like
copper, silver, etc. It works well until 1350 C. I just carve out a block
which is the space where the torch heats the crucible.
But heating it up till 1450 C (melting cast-iron) or higher (using
carbon arc instead of propane torch) the inner wall melts down to a white hot
slurry of molten CaSO4 with dissolved CaO (and silica ?) which is very
sticky and attacks Hessian (alumina) crucibles.
Chamotte is no option, as it is *very heat-soaking*. It 'costs' about
200 degrees in maximum temperature.
I look for a 'refractory' like 'YTONG' which is *very* insulating but which
can withstand 1600-1800 C without sticking to the crucible. Or can one make
it yourself by mixing crushed/powdered gypsum with magnesia and then
're' baking it ?
Even lining the inner walls of a carved YTONG block (which I use now) 
with this 'refractory suffices.

Any help would be appreciated.

Klaas



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique Engine show ?
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 08:55:39 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <31D7F4FB.21F3@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4q9668$53k@news.sanders.lockheed.com> <DtCsI8.ApJ@cruzio.com> <4qmk61$kh6@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4r7eam$t5c@daily-planet.execpc.com>
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To: Guy Fay <fayguyma@execpc.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------3F68306B437F
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Guy Fay wrote:
> 
> For others, and for future reference, Stemgas Publishing puts out the
> Steam and Gas Show Directory.  They have I web page, but I don't have the
> adress handy.  Search on Stemgas.

--------------3F68306B437F
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Stemgas.txt"



Stemgas Publishing Co.

Gas Engine Magazine  (GEM)
Stemgas Directory of Engine Shows, etc.  (was $6, ppd)
Other fine books, etc.

P.O. BOX 328
Lancaster PA 17608-0328

Phone: 1-717-392-0733
FAX:   1-717-392-1341

http://www.xmission.com:80/~lancpa/stemgas/


--------------3F68306B437F--



From hillsden@direct.ca Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!van-bc!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: Ron Hillsden <hillsden@direct.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Flux for cerro alloys?
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:20:49 -0700
Organization: Ron in Victoria
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Can anyone suggest a flux for cerro-bend or cerro-true low temp 
alloys? We are pouring it into silicon rubber molds, it doesn't seem to 
like that very much!


From fmihm@mail.cruzio.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!legba.synergy.net!news.scruz.net!cruzio.com!news
From: "Frank J. Mihm" <fmihm@mail.cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Cratex whereabouts
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 21:01:02 GMT
Message-ID: <Dts51q.9Jw@cruzio.com>
To: wfiles@ozemail.com.au
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wfiles@ozemail.com.au (william files) wrote:
>I need to find  Cratex Co .Our supplies have dried up in Australia.
>Where did they go to .  HELP
>Thanks in advance

Bill --

Here are three good sources for finding names, addresses and phone numbers:

1) InfoSpace -- they have 110 million listings of business and residential phone 
numbers, fax numbers, 800-numbers, government phone and fax numbers, etc.  They 
expect to add email addresses 'real soon now'.

        http://www.infospaceinc.com/

2) Switchboard -- they have 90 Million residential and business phone listings.

        http://www.switchboard.com/

3) Thomas Register -- the online version of the wonderful reference source that 
lists manufacturers and their products.  You can search by company name or product 
class.  The data includes the phone numbers, fax numbers and zip codes (better than 
the printed book!) and you can copy/paste!

You must 'register' initially, but usage is free.

        http://www.thomasregister.com/finder/gate1.html


Using InfoSpace, I found the following:
---------------------------------------
Cratex Corp
4288 Ridge Trail N; Bridgeton, MO 63045
314-291-7777

Cratex Manufacturing Co Inc
7754 Arjons Dr; San Diego, CA 92126-4391
619-566-4511


I hope this is a help.  Good luck in your search.

                        Frank





From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SHERLINE Tools page
Date: 1 Jul 1996 06:19:22 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4r7qla$ql1@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny12-61.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jun 30 11:19:22 PM PDT 1996

I am in the process of constructing our SHERLINE Tools page at our web
site; http://hre.com/
Please feel free to come and visit ( yes it is a commercial site, but I
will be happy to answer any technical questions about the SHERLINE
tools).
Input from members of this group is greatly appreciated. If there is a
particular item that you would like reviewed, please let me know. (I
will be making the reviews that we have already done available on the
page shortly )

Thanks again

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From glavin@rmplc.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!newsgate.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!yama.mcc.ac.uk!rmplc!news
From: glavin@mail.rmplc.co.uk (Garry Lavin)
Newsgroups: alt.america.online,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.heraldry,rec.travel.europe,rec.travel.marketplace,soc.culture.british,soc.history.medieval,swnet.svenska,triangle.arts,uk.events,uk.rec.crafts
Subject: APPLIED ART DIRECTION--British Safaris
Date: 1 Jul 1996 22:03:31 GMT
Organization: A.A.D.Safari
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If you like travelling;  experiencing new things; and doing all sorts of 
things---then maybe check my pages--and then perhaps a comment etc.;-
http://www.hopwood.ac.uk/business/aadsafari/
http://www.hopwood.ac.uk/business/aadactive/



From daleh@skypoint.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cyberstore.ca!skypoint.com!usenet
From: daleh@skypoint.com (Dale A. Hagert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Software
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 11:40:17 GMT
Organization: SkyPoint Communications, Inc.
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial385.skypoint.net
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I am looking for the site were I can get Mr Machinist.  I would like
to order a copy.  If anyone can offer assistance, I would apprecite
it.  Also, if the is any shareware out there, I would be interested.

Thanks
Dale Hagert at daleh@skypoint.com



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 1 Jul 1996 12:11:34 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4r8f9m$lch@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4qsieh$q4v@server1.chelmsford.com>
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To: al@chelmsford.com

The only thing magical about 40:1 that I know of is that it has 
some nice factors so you don't need as many index plates to get 
a given number of divisions.  Other good ones would be, say, 
48:1 and 60:1.  Either 20;1 or 30:1 would be okay too.  You can
crank through the math, if you're so inclined, and figure out
the possibilities for each one.  In brief: 
  1. Decide which divisions you want to do.  Since you don't
     know in advance, for sure, you have to make an assumption.
     When I ran through it I assumed I wanted all divisions 2-50,
     all even divisions 52-100, 125, 200, and 360.
  2. For a given gear ratio, figure out what index plates you need 
     to do those divisions.  For instance, with a 30:1 ratio, to
     get 52 divisions you need to turn the crank 30/52, or 15/26,
     of a turn.  So you need a 26-hole index plate.
  3. When you have the list of all possible index plates, go through
     the list and knock out plates that are factors of others.
     You'll have a lot of cases where you need 1/2 a turn, probably,
     but you don't need a 2-hole index plate because we've already
     established that you need a 26-hole index plate and you can get
     1/2 a turn by doing every 13 holes.  Same for 1/3, 1/4, etc.
  4. You will end up with the minimum set of index plates you need
     *for the set of possible divisions you chose.*  Then you may want
     to go through and see if it makes sense to combine some.  You
     will probably end up needing a 6-hole and a 9-hole index plate,
     but it might make sense to combine those into a single 18-hole
     index plate, if you don't already need one.  Or a 36-hole plate.

Anyway, you can run through all that for 20:1 and 30:1, and it may
become apparent *for the set of possible divisions you chose* that one
ratio is better than the other.





From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 1 Jul 1996 12:23:26 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: jim35@ix.netcom.com

"Silver steel" is the British equivalent of American "drill rod."




From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Good brands of small taps and dies
Date: 1 Jul 1996 12:35:56 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <09960601072814.OUI15.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <4r89jm$pcd@hobyah.cc.uq.oz.au>
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In article <4r89jm$pcd@hobyah.cc.uq.oz.au>, From 
zzsbtafe@mailbox.uq.edu.au (Russell Horswood), the following was
written: > I'm coming to the U.S.A. later in the year and I need to find
out  > which are good brands of small taps and dies.

There are MANY manufacturers of quality taps.  One that we have used
with success, especially for special size taps (such as Acme) is Widell.

http://www.widell.com

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From demirj@husc.harvard.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demirj <demirj@husc.harvard.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS. Comparator.
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 23:23:50 -0400
Organization: Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.960629232235.6338F-100000@husc7.HARVARD.EDU>
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 12"Wilder comparator with surface illuminator (1942 Mil. spec)$750.

 Christen  05-10 drill grinding machine capacity 
 .016 to .375 Swiss made $600.








From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 1 Jul 1996 13:29:33 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 71
Message-ID: <4r8jrt$a60@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <4r762v$kms@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa) writes:
>In article <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>,
>H.Shrikumar <shri@cs.umass.edu> wrote:
>>1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
>>(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
>>engine block up safely?
>
>Maybe, but I wouldn't count on it.  I just walked over to a 1/8" x 1.5"
>x 1.5" x 72" CRS angle I have lying here, and found that if I support it at
>the ends and press down at the center with 50 pounds or so of force
>that it droops about 1/2".  If this piece didn't buckle under
>the 350lb load, it would almost certainly be drooping considerably at
>the center (probably with a twist, too.)  
>
>I would *highly* recommend that
>you find a section of I-beam for this application.  Take a look
>at some engine hoists to get an idea of the size you'd need.  Even
>better, think about renting an engine hoist for the few days you'll
>need it.  If you look at typical engine hoists, they are *far* beefier
>than the design you are proposing.
>

I suspect this is not a replacement for an engine hoist, but a necessary
tool required to support the engine while doing something else.  I had
to fabricate something similar for my TR8 the other year when I rebuilt
the front suspension (the suspension is bolted to a subframe that also
supports the engine - If you take the subframe off, there's nothing
to hold up the engine thus requiring a tool such as described).  I used
a piece of 1x2 steel tubing with a 1/8 wall that I had lying around.
It was adequate, but the load was distributed at two points with chains
and not concentrated at a single point.  I don't think I would have used
it if I had a single point load to contend with.

Another point to consider is that you're not supporting the entire
engine weight, since the rear motor mount is still connected (at least
in my case, I don't know about your situation).

All in all, though, I wouldn't use 1/8 angle.  You can bend that stuff
with your bare hands.  I'd probably use a piece of 2x2x1/4 angle.  You'd
like something that you could stand on the end of a 6' piece cantalevered
>from  one end and not worry about it collapsing under you (to put it in
subjective terms).  Get it from your local steel dealer, rather than a
hardware store.  It will be cheaper (particularly if you can get a piece
>from  their cutoff pile) and you'll have a better idea of it's composition.

The other thing to worry about is the eyebolt.  Cheap hardware WILL
fail; the threads will pull right out under load.  This is not fun.
(this is also why a lot of lifting hardware you buy at the cheap hardware
stores has warnings about using it to lift people or loads - they want
to avoid the liability if you do something stupid).  350 lbs isn't that
much, but you should do the calculations to determine the correct size
and number of threads needed and then use good quality hardware of known
composition.   I think either grade 5 or 8 would work for this application
if it was sized correctly, but I'd stay away from the unmarked crap.

Now you know why they charge so much for a piece of steel with an eyebolt
in it.

Disclaimer:  I am not a structural engineer and my opinions are worth what
you payed for them.  Don't do anything without advice from a certified
profesional.  I am not liable for anything you do.  If I were to tell you
to do anything, it would be to take it to a Dealer and let them worry
about it.




--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From U496B@wvnvm.wvnet.edu Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!wvnvms!wvnvm!u496b
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HENROB 2000 torch any good? It sure LOOKS nice.
Message-ID: <96183.081521U496B@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: Ben Groover <U496B@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 08:15:21 EDT
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com><quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> 
 <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com><31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> 
 <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu><4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> 
 <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net><4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu> 
 <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com><31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <4qnjpd$lap@news.hal-pc.org>
Lines: 12

I was at a car show recently and saw a HENROB 2000 torch demonstrated.
Looking for anyone who has one or knows if they are realy as good as
they look.  It's a torch with a pistol grip that kind of remind me a
a big soldering gun only with flame.  They did some realy impressive
cutting with this thing on tin and 1/2 steel!  It only removed an 1/8
inch of metal or LESS when he cut the 1/2 steel into two puzzle pieces
that fit as good as some of my kids wooden puzzles do!  Also did
some welding with it that was nice but that's not my intended purpose.

thanks for your help,
ben
u496b@wvnvm.wvnet.edu


From janders@oro.net Sun Jul  7 15:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Craftsman lathe
Date: 1 Jul 1996 14:02:10 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <4r8lp2$f1c@li.oro.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janders.oro.net
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

I'm selling my Craftsman 12"x24" lathe.

It has the following:

Change gears
3 Jaw
4 Jaw
2 face plates
Royal collet closer, nose piece, 3 collets
Milling attachment
Steady rest w/ball bearings
Morse taper 3/8 end mill holder and drawbar 
2 Jacobs drill chucks
2 live centers, dead centers
Rocker tool post
4 position indexing tool post
3/8 boring bar holder
Taper attachment
Federal indicator for carraige travel

MODS:
Bevel gears for carraige powerfeed replaced with steel gears
Crossfeed nut replaced with Hardinge nut, double the engagement
Crossfeed and Compound dials 2" diameter, and patterned after Hardinge
2nd tailstock, from Southbend 10K, converted to lever acting. Needs riser fabricated.

I'm asking $1500. Lathe is in good condition, and is in Grass Valley, California. 
Due to workload, I cannot deliver.

Also for sale:
6" Buck Adjust-Tru 3 jaw chuck w/ 2 sets of jaws. 1-1/2-8 mounts (fits Craftsman) $300
1-1/2-8 tap, $40

Respond via Email, or call Jon @ (916)477-1526
You can also call (916) 265-5191 and ask for Tim or Tom. These are
used machinery guys, and have offered to help me out by taking
calls for me during the day. This is my lathe however, and is at my home.
I'm not giving them free advertising for thier stuff.

Jon Anderson



From clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!andromeda.rutgers.edu!not-for-mail
From: clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu (Charles L. Rowe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: need help tempering a spring
Date: 1 Jul 1996 10:05:34 -0400
Organization: Rutgers University
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4r8lve$pec@andromeda.rutgers.edu>
References: <4qm7bf$cjc@andromeda.rutgers.edu> <4r54tk$13r@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: andromeda.rutgers.edu

    Thanks for the well detailed response.  The material I'm using came from
    MSC and they don't specify the exact steel type, they call it oil-
    tempered round spring wire, there's no other data on the pack .
   ( It's on p. 1088 of the current catalog)
	
                 Got 6 dozen pieces, lots to practice on!
					Charlie


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!news.PBI.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:32:23 GMT
Lines: 19

In article <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com>,
Scott Logan <SLogan@gnn.com> wrote:
>In article <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, From 
>lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak), the following was written:
>> A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
>> on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?
>
>With a tap.  I've heard of some folks making a very small internal
>threading tool, but it's not economical if you figure what your time is
>worth.  

I cut a lot of internal threads using taps, but also have cause to
single point cut threads when it's not practical to use a tap, such
as a 1.5"x8tpi thread for my lathe spindle.  Lots of time a modeler
has more time than money, so something like this is an easy call.

Now if inside threading inserts and holders were just a bit
cheaper...  



From ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.eff.org!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ed510
From: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 1 Jul 1996 15:04:54 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Reply-To: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
NNTP-Posting-Host: eeyore.ins.cwru.edu


Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?
I've tried the following to clean the spots:
   1) Shaklee Basic-H: nothing.
   2) Hand cleaner: slight lightening.
   3) Lighter fluid: nothing.
   4) Kerosene: nothing.
   5) Bleach mixed with baking soda (DiDi 7 substitute): nothing
   6) Lacquer thinner: nothing.
   7) Full wash cycle: nothing.
Can these spots ever be cleaned?
   Thank you...Chet Roberts (ed510@cleveland.freenet.edu)
P.S.: Yes, I know it was stupid...but I've done even dumber
stuff.... ; )


From brondeau@delphi.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: Ben <brondeau@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone use a HP 7475A Plotter?
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 11:19:36 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <xPKudE4.brondeau@delphi.com>
References: <fBcaKBAl0QvxEwHJ@hoskin.demon.co.uk> <4ps7ru$8bv@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <4qemi0$2mq@star.epix.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com
X-To: Garry Foster <gmfoster@epix.net>

Don't know where this started....but....
 
Get yourself a GPIB card and cable, forget the RS232. The HP plotters are set up
to work best under GPIB. And, like someone else mentioned, get the _HP_ driver,
don't use the Micro$oft one....
 
(We used to use HP plotters all the time....until laser printers got cheap, and
software gave us better printer graphics.....)
 
Ben Rondeau
 
 
 
--
Ben Rondeau              |    WWW      AA      WWW
QACA Site Administrator  |     WWW    AAAA    WWW
Wyeth-Ayerst Labs        |      WWW  AAAAAA  WWW   WYETH-
Rouses Point, NY         |       WWWAAA  AAAWWW    AYERST
rondeab@labs.wyeth.com   |         AAA    AAA      LABORATORIES
brondeau@delphi.com      |
 
*** Views expressed are not the views of Wyeth-Ayerst Labs or
      American Home Products ***


From Parsek@cris.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!Parsek
From: Parsek@cris.com (PARSEK)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 1 Jul 1996 15:36:42 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: galileo.cris.com

In article <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>, Craig Wall <cwall@swri.edu> wrote:

>     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
>     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about 60 lbs or
>     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
>     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.

At least some cruise missiles use small turbojets engineered from truck
engine superchargers.  Check rec.aviation.military & rec.flying.homebuilt.
Even if you managed to acquire such an engine, the FAA probably wouldn't
let you fly it.  


From peter.carss@bbs.ccai.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!van.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!n2ott.istar!news.magmacom.com!usenet
From: Peter Carss <peter.carss@bbs.ccai.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: B-A hardware
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 08:50:19 -0700
Organization: Magma Communications Ltd., Ottawa, Ont., Canada
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <31D7F3BB.9DE@bbs.ccai.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.134.37.18
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win95; I; 16bit)

Does anyone have a source for British B-A thread form hardware? I'm 
restoring a Myford ML-7 and am missing a few small screws. I suppose I 
could tap them out for SAE hardware, but I'd rather keep it original

Thanks!


From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!insync!uuneo.neosoft.com!news.sesqui.net!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Date: 1 Jul 1996 16:07:11 GMT
Organization: TI
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4r8t3f$2kf@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
References: <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <4q7i8t$kd9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4qrh6e$43m@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com> <Dtq78z.8Cv.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
Reply-To: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: cna0128981.dseg.ti.com
X-Newsreader: News Version 5.0 from Hummingbird Communications Ltd.

>In article <4qrh6e$43m@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>,
>Marty Jones <mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com> wrote:
>:
>:I'd be concerned about where the aluminum went that was "eaten".  Probably
>:now exists as aluminum compounds in the food.  Might be harmful.
>
>Then I'm sure you are horrified at the thought that many over-the-
>counter antacids sold in drugstores contain aluminum hydroxide as
>one-half of their active ingredients.  Even occasional use of such
>antacids is a far bigger source of dietary aluminum than is routine use
>of aluminum cookware.
>

No, I wouldn't be horrified at that - obviously these particular compounds were specifically
intended for consumption.  And you probably shouldn't be concerned about routine
use of cookware, either.  But I draw the line at storage for a sufficient time that the
container is noticeably "eaten", as the original poster noted.  That implies a significant
influx of aluminum compounds whose composition is pretty much out of our control.

If you opened a can of soup, and noted that it had dissolved a significant portion of
the can's interior, would you still eat it?  I wouldn't, despite the fact that iron compounds
are a constituent of over-the-counter vitamins.

By the way, I do use aluminum cookware - occasionally - I think - now what was I talking
about?

Best Regards,

Marty Jones
>Followups redirected to alt.sex.aluminum.baseball.bat.
>
>(Not really.)
>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!news.mindlink.net!line037.nwm.mindlink.net!pevans
From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 16:44:27 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <pevans.331.31D8006A@mindlink.bc.ca>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net>
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X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net> Parsek@cris.com (PARSEK) writes:


>In article <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>, Craig Wall <cwall@swri.edu> wrote:

>>     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
>>     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about 60 lbs or
>>     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
>>     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.

>At least some cruise missiles use small turbojets engineered from truck
>engine superchargers.  Check rec.aviation.military & rec.flying.homebuilt.
>Even if you managed to acquire such an engine, the FAA probably wouldn't
>let you fly it.  

What if you got a cruise missle that presumably already has FAA cert, strap on 
a saddle and your goggles, and stow a twofour where the nuke is supposed to go?

Um, just kidding.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans wanted
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 09:30:32 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <31D7FD28.291E@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4r7ged$ond@dns.pulsenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az7-19.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------1DD43E484BEB"
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Jul 01 11:29:23 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Steve-o <steveobg@pulsenet.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------1DD43E484BEB
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Steve-o wrote:
> 
> Evening all,
> 
>  I am wondering if anyone could send me a copy of the "gearless hit or
> miss engine" -parts 2 & 4. I would be glad to reimburse copying and
> postage expences.
> 
> e-mail to: steveobg@pulsenet.com
> 
> This was in "the Home Shop Machinist" starting with the may/june 1993
> issue.
> I fed the engineer, then I ran!

Village Press sells back issues - assuming they are in stock.

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------1DD43E484BEB
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="VILLAGE PRESS.txt"

VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

1-800-447-7367
--------------1DD43E484BEB--



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 09:24:05 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31D7FBA5.30D6@ix.netcom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Jul 01 11:22:57 AM CDT 1996
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To: Paul Amaranth <amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu>

Paul Amaranth wrote:
> 
> In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
> >
> >Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
> >mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. .......
> ........for me is to rub in some of the
> heavy-duty waterless handcleaner (right now, I have some of the citrus
> stuff in an orange container).  Work it in, then wash it out with soap
> and rinse.  Get out most of the water and repeat until clean.  Then throw
> it in the wash with Wisk.  Pre-treating and letting it soak a while may
> be necessary.

We use ERA.  Does pretty good.  Probably about the same as WISK.
Actually with everything that was tried the spots are probably pretty
well set.  I also use the orange flavored hand cleaner, FAST ORANGE,
made by Permatex (L293-2 no pumice).  

> 
> Initially, it will spread the spot out, but as long as most of the gunk
> stays suspended in the cleaner, it should come out.  I picked up a wonderful
> grease streak on a good pair of jeans walking through a shop the other week
> (not my fault, grease jumps out at me when it see's me coming :-) and
> this worked pretty well.
> 
> The pumice in the handcleaner might be a bit rough on finer fabrics, though.
> 
> --
> Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
>                (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu
>                URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth

Paul in AJ AZ


From Joanne.Rice@dartmouth.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Joanne.Rice@dartmouth.edu (Joanne Rice)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: trying to contact O. Evan Lewis
Date: 1 Jul 1996 16:28:16 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
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Does anyone have an address (or phone number) for O. Evan Lewis?  He
did metal sculptures for the movie Twister.

Thanks.

Joanne.Rice@Hitchcock.Org


From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolts VS Rivets
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 11:21:21 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
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There was some research done many years ago at U Ill. Urbana-Chapagne,
that found Bolts were stronger than rivets in the case of bridge
structures.

This went against conventional wistom, which indicated that solid
rivit should be stronger than threaded fastener.

Rivets must be somwhat ductile in order to be set w/o fracturing, It
is also difficult to preload the fastener.

Bolts may be tempered to whatever condition will be optimal for the
application, and may be accuratly torqued at installation.  These
advantages more than offset the greater cross section of the rivet.

-KF-



From bgreveme@etcv01.eld.ford.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bryce Grevemeyer <bgreveme@etcv01.eld.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 13:51:03 -0700
Organization: Ford Motor Company
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ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
>
>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?
>I've tried the following to clean the spots:

 

I use the waterless hand cleaner that does not contain pumice.
There is one kind that comes in a red and white can, and another
brand that comes in a blue can.

The stuff is a combination of Lanolin, a water soluble oil,
and mineral spirits.  It works for most oil based stains, including
ball point pen.

Rub it in, let set a while and launder.  You may have to launder 
twice to get rid of the mineral spirit smell.

One end of the lanolin molecule grabs the oil based stain.  
Water can then grab the other end of the lanolin molecule and
float the whole mess away.

If it has resisted the list of stuff that you have used, it is
probably graphite based, and solvents will not remove it.

Sorry.
-- 
====================================================================
| Bryce Grevemeyer        | Phone:    (313) 845-5589               |
| Ford ETC C370           | FAX:      (313) 845 3799               |
| 17000 Rotunda Drive     | EMail:    BGREVEME@etcv01.eld.ford.com |
| Dearborn, MI 48121-6010 | Internal Ford PROFS: IBMMAIL(I1483006) |
====================================================================


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas Shaper Questions
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:04:31 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 7
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OK, I'll post an ascii version of the oiling list, *but* first I have to
get the !@#$%^ dialback system to work for me.  (One of these days I ought
to get a real internet provider instead of trying to use the secure-but-
frequently-useless work system.)  So far I'm 0 for 3, but I'll keep fiddling.

Pete Brooks



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun Jul  7 15:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rotary Table Question
Date: 1 Jul 1996 14:36:42 GMT
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When using a rotary table on a milling machine, the first step is mounting the 
workpiece so that the center of the arc to be cut or the circle to be inletted is 
located at the table's axis of rotation. What's the easiest way of doing this?

Up to this point, I have been centering the rotary table to the milling machine 
spindle with an indicator, locking the table, and then placing the work piece on the 
table and centering it to the spindle with a wiggler. But there has be be a better 
way. In particular, is there any way of directly centering the work piece to the 
table's axis of rotation without centering both to the spindle?  All suggestions 
appreciated.

Roger Weppelman



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: B-A hardware
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:03:52 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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	Does anyone have a source for British B-A thread form hardware? 

I'm pretty sure I posted this info recently, maybe it belongs in the FAQ?

Name:        Metric and Multistandard Corporation
Phone:       (708) 655-9009 chicago

Despite the name, have a broad supply of British fasteners and tooling
and a glorious catalog. 

British Tools and Fasteners
Phillip Brown
2030 Andre Avenue
Los Osos, CA 93402 USA
(805) 528-0418
FAX: (805) 528-0358
boltnut@ix.netcom.com
http://www.majon.com/www/british.html

Online order form for tools & fasteners in BA, BSF, BSW (Whitworth)
and BS CYCLE sizes.  Also have TAPS and DIES in sets and singularly in 
M.E. SIZES.  Catalog $2.

British Cycle Supply Company
Box 119
Wolfville, NS B0P 1X0
CANADA
Phone (902) 542-7478 (3 lines)
Fax (902) 542-7479

Although this company specialises in parts and accessories
for British bikes, not cars, they have been supplying customers for 
over 18 years, and have a number of items which would be of interest
to British car owners, primarily Whitworth tools and hardware.

They are direct importers, and supply retail and wholesale.

While a copy of their 176 pg. pricguide/catalogue is available for
$5.00 postpaid (prepaid or by calling with a credit card number) best
bet is to phone them any weekday. They have warehouses in both the USA and
Canada, and accept all credit cards. - Wayne Swift <britcycl@fox.nstn.ca>



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:16:28 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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One more variable in Stirling engines is the average pressure of the
working fluid.  To get the gory details, dig up a book like Colin West's
book on general stirlings (not the liquid piston book), or possibly a
primer like James Senft's book (you can get it from places like Coles
or Power Model supply.  I special ordered the West book.  There was also
a single copy in the San Jose public library system.

During the early '80s, there was a lot of research on using a stirling
to power a car.  The typical engines ran at pressures of 2000psi or so....

However, you can do pretty well at lower pressures.  Andy Ross got
about a half HP on a self-pressurizing engine.  I believe it was a
90cc that ran at about 2.7atm.  Also, low power applications like
cordless fans can run at atmosphere.

(wish I had a few of those fans handy right now.  The shop's too
hot to work in when it's 100F outside.....) 

Pete Brooks



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 1 Jul 1996 17:52:32 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I often have luck soaking in TriSodiumPhosphate solution - or throw some in
to the washer with the load.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 4 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160257.23907@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:57 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 4
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:57 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 685

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 4 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

19.  Which MIG welder should I buy?

     We frequently see "What should I buy" questions; one example
     is "What MIG welder should I buy?"  There is no definite answer,
     and the prospective buyer should read the other entries in this
     FAQ regarding welding.  What follows is an example of such a
     question and the answers received (June, 1993).  We claim no
     responsibility for correctness or liability for your money!

     Keith King asked:

      I'm looking at the purchase of a MIG welder for auto body repair and
      other light welding jobs around the homestead and I don't have much 
      background on this type of equipment.  

      The models I'm looking at are the Lincoln SP-100 and the Miller 130.
      Both models are 110v portables.  The Miller has a higher rating but
      I'm not sure if that's critical for my applications.  The Lincoln has
      the advantage of having infinitely variable power output vs. stepped
      output for the Miller and the salesman said the gun on the Lincoln
      was a "Tweako?" whatever that means.  Both units are similarly
      priced/warranted etc.

      Century has a bunch of lower priced, shorter warranty, cheaper looking, 
      MIG welders.

      Does anyone have any experience/opinions on these welders or other MIGs
      to help me make a more informed purchase.

     Jim Narem answered/asked:

      I'm also interested in MIG welders for sheet metal and roll bar
      work.  I've used the Italian made SIP 110V MIG unit.  It works; it was
      worth $100 (purchased at some close-out sale) but not the $350 that
      places want retail.  It's tough to get parts; even the tips have to be
      ordered.  The wire feed mechanism sucks.

      I've seen some new Lincoln's on the market; both are wire feed
      welders with optional MIG kits as opposed to the SP-100 and SP-130
      which are purpose build MIG units.

      Lincoln Weld-Pak 100, 88 amp, 18V @ 20% duty, 110V, $354 w/MIG kit.
      Lincoln Weld-Pak 125, 130 amp, 20v @ 30% duty, 220V, $556 w/MIG kit.
      (Prices are Connecticut Home Depot, tax bandit not included)

      The MIG kits are about $80 each, they have a gas flow regulator,
      solenoid and (I think) a different gun.

      Does anyone have any experience with these welders?  They seem cost
      effective compared to the SP-100 and SP-130 but I'm nervous since
      Lincoln seems to be releasing some home/consumer grade equipment (like
      their new AC arc welder with the cheezy variable amperage control).

      There are also several Century MIG units commonly available at large
      home improvement shops (yup, WELD on that new addition).  I've used
      their AC/DC arc welder and was impressed with its cost/performance.
      Has anyone used any of the Century MIGs?

     Ken Clarke answered:

      I took an evening welding class at a technical high school (10 weeks)
      and got to try various types of welding (stick, MIG, TIG, and
      oxy/acetylene.  Also got some good tips on safety, and on how to by a
      MIG welder.

      The instructor spoke of the "big three" in the welding business
      (Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart). He was a confirmed "Miller" man, but
      we used Lincoln (and Airco) welders in the tech. school. I now think
      that it makes sense to buy whatever you decide to buy at your
      favorite welding supply store. The guys there have lots of good
      advice and if you go with one of the big three, you will not have any
      problem getting parts and consumables for your welder.

      I looked around for a while and compared the 110v portable welders by
      Lincoln and Miller and Hobart. My favorite welding supply house was
      having a "package deal" that included the Hobart Handler 120.
      Included in the package was the welder, a 2 lb. spool of .024 wire, a
      Jackson welders mask with the 4x5 face plate (get a number 10 shade),
      a *good* pair of welders gloves, a 55 cu. ft. tank of shielding gas
      (C25 which is 25 percent CO2 and 75 percent Argon), a dual-gauge
      regulator and connecting hose. This was about 1.5 years ago and I
      believe I paid $625 for the package.

      The Hobart has been great. It works fine on auto body panels and I
      have also done work on exhaust systems, mailbox posts, minibike
      mufflers, lawnmower parts, and am finishing up a trailer axle for a
      friend this weekend.

      So, I guess I'm advocating the Hobart, but if you can get a good deal
      on the Miller or the Lincoln, those would probably be fine, too.

      A few of the features on the Hobart that I liked were:

      1. A "purge" feature, that allows you to set the flow rate on the
         shielding gas without spooling out wire.

      2. The wire feed mechanism that lets you set the tension on the drive
         wheel but also lets you change wire spools without moving the
         setting.

      3. The ergonomics of the unit, the way the wire spool goes in, the
         way the lid hinges down (not up like the others).

      4. Five year warranty on power diodes and SCRs, three years on major
         components and one year on parts and labor.

      I would stay away from the Century welder. I don't think it has the
      quality of the "big three". I think you would have trouble getting
      parts, probably would have to order them. All parts for the big three
      can be had at local welding supply houses, in-stock. Also, the
      "Tweeko" comment is referring to the gun end of the welder. I hear
      that it's supposed to be a very common industry-standard type of part.
      Parts for the Tweeko handle/gun should be available at any welding
      supply house.

     Jim Swonger answered:

      "Tweako" is actually Tweco, a manufacturer of MIG and TIG handpieces
      and such.  What this means is that parts are pretty readily available;
      they're everywhere.

      For sheet metal welding you'll run nowhere near the maximum heat setting
      on any machine.  On my 160 I'm down on "2" for heat.  The higher current
      machines of some of the cheaper brands need to be looked at carefully;
      some of them have -very- low duty cycles, leading me to believe that the
      critical parts are not much, if any, better than the cheaper models.

      The "purge" feature is good to have; however if you do not find a machine
      with it you can add it pretty simply. An auxiliary control switch for the
      solenoid valve is all it takes, in parallel with the relay that runs off
      the gun trigger.

      For serious sheet metal work spot and stitch modes are very nice
      amenities, allowing you to tack up a large piece with spaced short
      beads, minimizing distortion and allowing a fast, even hand motion.
      You can get by without it, but if it comes free or cheap...

     Quite a while later (26-Sep-1993), mrehmus@ix.netcom.com wrote --

      I've owned a Century 90 amp MIG welder for 4 or 5 years now.  Never a
      problem with the unit and I've put three large reels of 0.024" wire
      through it.  The one time I thought I had a problem the people at
      Century were very helpful.  Century may not be one of the "big three"
      but they have been around for a very long time (mainly they make many
      of the professional battery chargers sold in this country, so I'm told).

     ------------
     Other comments that have come up from various sources,
     especially Ken Clarke:

     Arc welders are often rated for a particular duty cycle, such as 30%.
     This means you can weld for about 3 minutes at full power, then you
     have to let the welder cool off for 7 minutes.  The cheap units are
     typically low duty cycle, where the professional units have a high
     duty cycle.  Also, units are often rated at a certain lower amperage
     where they can safely be operated at a higher percentage; for example,
     a 200 amp unit might be rated at 50 amps @ 100%, 100 amps at @ 60%,
     and 200 amps at 30%.  Look for some sort of automatic cutoff to
     protect your investment in case you get carried away.

     DC systems are nicer than AC systems, especially if you can reverse
     polarity.  AC systems splatter a bit more.  DC doesn't as much, and
     makes a nicer weld as a result.  Reversing polarity apparently can
     direct heat away from, or to, the workpiece; directing it away from
     a sheet metal weld can reduce warpage.

     Inverter models run off DC, or rectified line current.  Their
     portability is the main selling point, for field welding where 220V
     isn't available.  For the home or small shop, they are probably
     overkill.

     Large spools of wire, or other welding supplies, may corrode before
     they get used up in a hobby environment.  Dry storage is important
     to preserve them.

     In late 1995 (10/1), Ernie Leimkuhler (ernieleim@aol.com) wrote:

     The best of all the baby migs are the Lincoln SP-125, Miller 130, and
     Hobart Handler 120.  All 3 are gas MIGs that can also run flux-core (but
     why would you want to if you don't have to ?).  I own a Handler 120 and
     have loved it for the last 3 years.  I've welded stainless, aluminum and
     steel with it without a hitch, although the aluminum capability of all the
     baby migs is pretty limited.  For regular steel I use a 75% argon / 25%
     CO2 mix, but if I need to do a bunch of stainless I swap my 75/25 bottle
     in for a bottle of Helium-tri-mix. This gives hotter, cleaner welds on
     stainless and as long as you own your tank it doesn't cost much to swap
     out for a specific job and then swap back.  Eventually I suppose I'll buy
     another tank, but for now it doesn't seem worth it.

     Flux-core is only recomended where a sheilding gas is likely to get blown
     away, such as in-the-field repairs.  It is considerably nastier and means
     a lot of cleanup.

     BTW instead of buying 10 lb. ($50 - $60) spools of stainless, I buy the
     little 1.1 lb ($6 - $7 )spools made for spooler guns.  This saves a bit of
     money for small jobs, but if you are doing a lot of stainless, it is
     cheaper per pound to buy the 10 lb spools.

     Remeber to match you filler metal on stainless, other wise you can get
     some funky welds.  308L SS filler wire is used for 304 SS.  316L SS filler
     wire is used for 316 SS.
     (The "L" stands for elevated temperature stable).

     The Hobart, Lincoln , and Miller machines all run close to $500 for a
     package.

     I would stay away from the cheesier brands on principle  allthough some
     members of this newsgroup have bought them and been quite satisfied.
     The problem is that the low end companies tend to have probems with
     warranty repairs and replacment parts, whereas the larger companies have
     certified repair stations all over the country.

     All these machines have similar max output amps and tend to max out on 1/4
     inch plate steel. For thick sections just preheat to above 400 deg F.

     -- to which Jim Campbell (campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US) replied:

     The Chicago Electric systems also have a clever marketing scheme that
     uses non-standard wire diameters that may commit you to using their
     systems and materials only.  That's probably why their machines are
     priced rock-bottom, especially through Harbour Freight.

     For those asking Mig theory questions, are you getting enough info
     in your operator's manual (When all else fails)?  A good little book
     on Mig is ESAB's "Mig Welding Handbook" revised in 1994.  Only $7.50
     and evaluation copies FREE for students/educators/advisors to schools,
     or whatever.  ESAB was once Union Carbide/Linde.  They may sell a 
     small Mig unit too, but I am not familiar with theirs.  ESAB's snail
     mail is:  PO Box 100545  Florence, SC  29501-0545  and voice is
     (803) 669-4411.  (I do not work for them, but use their mechanized stuff).

20.  Books on welding.  Courtesy of kenm@daffy.cac.washington.edu
     Here's a source of good and inexpensive welding books.
     A catalog is available from:

         Lincoln Arc Welding Foundation
         PO Box 17035
         Cleveland, OH 44117

     They list a couple of dozen titles. Here are nutshell reviews of
     the ones I've seen:

     Metals and How to Weld Them, 400 pg, $5.00

        A great book on the metallurgy of welding.  It's not a how-to-weld
        book, but instead answered the Why? type questions I've had for years.

     Principles of Industrial Welding, 384 pg, $6.50

        Your run-of-the-mill textbook.

     Design of Weldments, 464 pg, $7.00

        A text on the design of welded machinery etc.  There is a different
        book on welded structures.  Well worth it it you are designing
        your own projects.

     New Lessons in Arc Welding, 528 pg, $5.00

        Hard to describe - kind of a lab manual for a welding tips. 
        Certainly worth the $5.

     Arc Welded Projects Vol 2, 272 pg, $5.00
     Arc Welded Projects Vol 3, 170 pg, $4.50

        Full of short (couple of page) descriptions of all kinds of
        rather ambitious projects - a tractor snowblower, log splitter,
        chariot, sailboat, woodstove, ....

     These are good books at any price, and great books at these prices.

     -----------

     According to Jim Campbell (campbellj@fdtc.flo.TEC.SC.US):

     For those asking Mig theory questions, are you getting enough info
     in your operator's manual (When all else fails)?  A good little book
     on Mig is ESAB's "Mig Welding Handbook" revised in 1994.  Only $7.50
     and evaluation copies FREE for students/educators/advisors to schools,
     or whatever.  ESAB was once Union Carbide/Linde.  They may sell a
     small Mig unit too, but I am not familiar with theirs.  ESAB's snail
     mail is:  PO Box 100545  Florence, SC  29501-0545  and voice is
     (803) 669-4411.  (I do not work for them, but use their mechanized stuff).

21.  Soldering/brazing topics.

     There sometimes seems a fine line between soldering (several types,
     at that), brazing, and welding.  Here we try to shed some light on
     soldering and brazing.

     The following was contributed by Tim Kirby around 3/3/93 when the
     newsgroup was discussing the "true meaning" of silver soldering and
     the distinction between hard and soft solder.

     : Can anyone remember the "official" difference between
     : Hard & Soft solders ?

     While browsing for something else entirely, I found my copy of

     'Model Locomotive and Marine Boilers'
     [Argus Press, 1988, ISBN 0-85242-923-1]

     by Martin Evans (well known in the Model Engineering field, at least in
     the UK) from which I have gratuitously (and without prejudice) stolen the
     following extract for your contemplation.  As an aside, this is a useful
     book for those interested in designing and building boilers.

     Chapter 3, page 55: Silver Soldering and Brazing

     Soldering and brazing are processes which involve the joining of metals
     by the addition of molten filler metal of substantially different
     composition, at temperatures well below their melting point.  An important
     difference between silver-soldering and brazing or welding is that the
     brazing alloy or filler material must be drawn by capillary forces right
     through the mating joint surfaces, and not merely deposited at the edges.

     Soft Solders are generally accepted as including the alloys of low melting
     point up to about 400 deg. C.  They are usually based on Tin or Lead with
     small additions of antimony and sometimes silver.

     Hard solders, or silver-solders, are those alloys suitable for soldering
     which have melting points from 400 deg. C. up to about 800 deg. C. (see
     BSI 1845/1964)

     [for those who don't understand that reference, BSI is the British
     Standards Institute, similar in function to (for example) ANSI.
     BSI 1845 probably details this stuff in excruciating detail ;-) ... Tim.]

     Brazing alloys are alloys suitable for brazing (sic) which have melting
     points from about 800 deg. C. up to about 1000 deg. C.

     It should however be understood that there is no definite line of
     demarcation between silver-solders and brazing alloys.  The former always
     contain a proportion of silver, while the brazing alloys generally contain
     copper, zinc and sometimes tin.  Brazing alloys containing copper and
     phosphorus are also available but these are not recommended for boiler
     work.

22.  What are bolt grades?

     We frequently see questions regarding bolt grades, so here's a partial
     list.  Please note that just because a bolt is grade 2 does not mean
     it will break easily.  Grading only refers to the minimum strength,
     not the maximum.  Thus, if a machine uses a soft bolt as a safety
     shear pin, and you happen to replace it with a grade 2 bolt that was
     actually manufactured to grade 8 specs (but was marked down because
     too many of the bolts in the lot failed, so the whole lot was marked down)
     you could create some serious problems.  Replace safety-related items
     with proper stuff!  Also beware of improperly-marked forgeries.  If
     your application is critical, test some samples or get certified
     hardware (not that readers of rec.crafts.metalworking are likely to
     be building interstate bridges or spacecraft, but it's worth saying).

     A note on "strength" which is actually a complex subject.  First,
     note that there is a maximum "dry" tightening torque, and that
     part of this torque goes to overcoming friction.  Thus, a lubricated
     bolt should be tightened to a lesser torque, as much as 1/2 the
     dry torque.  Note too that bolts are rated as to their minimum
     tensile strength (presumably before breaking) and also their
     "proof" load, which is I believe the maximum load they can be
     subjected to as proof of their being grade "n", but this load
     is higher than the maximum suggested operating load.  Thus, like
     automobile mileage figures, use these numbers for comparison only.
     I suggest reading the below-listed references before building any
     life-critical contraption.  And remember that tensile strength
     is not the same as shearing strength.  And note that there have been
     many scandals over the years involving manufacturers or distributors
     who certify hardware as high grade, incorrectly.

     John M. Peterson kindly typed this in on July 20, 1993, and I
     have added a few strength figures (jk):

     Taken from  Machinery's Handbook 23 , page 1286.
     Torque: see Pocket Ref, by Thomas Glover, page 250.
     Strength: Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers, 7th ed.,
        page 8-35.  This also has a table of safe loads, as well
        as tensile and shearing strengths.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ASTM and SAE Grade Markings for Steel Bolts and Screws
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Grade Marking           Spec.                Material 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        SAE - Grade 1        Low or Medium Carbon Steel
       No               ASTM - A 307         Low Carbon Steel
      Mark              SAE - Grade 2        Low or Medium Carbon Steel

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


     --  --             SAE - Grade 3        Medium Carbon Steel


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               SAE - Grade 5        Medium Carbon Steel
                                               Quenched and Tempered
                        ASTM - A 409 
     /     \
                        Min Tensile Strength: 105,000 to 120,000 psi
                        Proof load: 74,000 to 85,000 psi
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               SAE - Grade 5.2      Low Carbon Martensite Steel
     \     /                                   Quenched and Tempered
            

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |
      -- --             SAE - Grade 6        Medium Carbon Steel
        |                                      Tempered

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               ASTM - A 325         Medium Carbon Steel
                          Type 1               Quenched and Tempered
      A 325                                    Radial dashes optional 
     /     \

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               ASTM - A 325         Low Carbon Martensite Steel
     \     /              Type 2               Quenched and Tempered
      A 325


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        ASTM - A 325        Atmospheric Corrosion (Weathering) 
                          Type 3               Steel, Quenched and Tempered
      A 325
      -----

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        ASTM - A 354         Alloy Steel, 
                          Grade BC             Quenched and Tempered
       BC  


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               SAE - Grade 7        Medium Carbon Alloy Steel
                                               Quenched and Tempered,
    --     --                                  Roll Threaded After Heat
     /     \                                   Treatment
                        Min Tensile Strength: 133,000 psi
                        Proof load: 105,000 psi
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        |               SAE - Grade 8        Medium Carbon Alloy Steel
     \     /                                   Quenched and Tempered 
                        ASTM - A 354         Alloy Steel,
     /     \              Grade BD             Quenched and Tempered 
        |               Min Tensile Strength: 150,000 psi
                        Proof load: 120,000 psi
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
       \/               SAE - Grade 8.2      Low Carbon Martensite Steel
     \    /                                    Quenched and Tempered
    \      /


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        ASTM - A 490         Alloy Steel, 
                          Type 1               Quenched and Tempered
      A 490  


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        ASTM - A 490        Atmospheric Corrosion (Weathering) 
                          Type 3               Steel, Quenched and Tempered
      A 490
      -----


23.  What is XYZ made of?

     Metals

     1. What is Brass made of?
        Brass is a combination of copper and zinc, in approximately the
        ratio of 2/3 to 1/3, respectively.  Sometimes lead (about 3%) is
        added to improve machinability.

     2. What is Bronze made of?
        Bronze is usually made of copper and tin.  However bronze
        describes any bronze colored alloy even if it doesn't have any
        tin.  Various bronze alloys include silicon, manganese or
        phosphorus.  Mostly bronze is used for bearings.

     3. Steels
        Steel is a refined iron where the impurities carbon, silicon,
        sulphur and phosphorus are removed and then the iron is
        combined with carbon and/or chromium and/or nickel.  Various
        other metals may be added to create a nearly infinite variety of
        steel and steel alloys.  A few common steels are discussed
        below.

        a. What is CRS?  Cold Rolled Steel.

        b. What is HRS?  Hot Rolled Steel.

        c. What is HSS?  High Speed Steel.

        d. What is stainless steel?
           Stainless steel is low in carbon but has about 20%
           chromium.  Stainless has a beautiful finish but it is
           very hard to machine.

        Both CRS and HRS are mild steels.  Mild steels have a low carbon
        (<.3%) content and therefore can't be hardened.  CRS is formed
        (into bars, rods or angles ...) "cold" and therefore has
        internal stresses inside.  Because of these stresses, an
        intricate part, like a one piece crankshaft, or a heat treated
        part may distort.  CRS has a smooth surface, which requires no
        additional finishing.  The steel stock found in the hardware
        store or home improvement center is usually CRS.  HRS is formed
        hot so it does not have any internal stresses but it has a
        rough black scale surface.  HRS is a little cheaper, but CRS is
        easier to find.  HRS is used for welding, so a welding shop with
        steel stock would be a good source for HRS.  HSS is a carbon steel
        (0.3%<carbon<1.7%) that also contains tungsten.  HSS is used to
        make tool cutters (drills, taps, dies...).  HSS cannot be easily
        hardened or annealed in the home shop.  Drill rod and tool steel
        are also carbon steels that can be hardened and annealed in the
        home shop to machine custom tools.  But they cannot take the
        heat of, nor do they wear as well as HSS.

     4. Nickel Silver, or "German Silver" doesn't even have any silver
        in it.  An alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc.  Also called
        "white brass".

24.  How do I build a furnace or forge?

     Geoffrey Keyes posted this on August 26 1993, and it looked good enough
     to include in the FAQ.  JK

     Ok boys and girls, I'm going to attempt to put together what I know about 
     propane forges/furnaces.  This may be somewhat rough since I am doing
     this extempore.  I'll be happy to answer any specific questions people
     may have.

     A disclaimer up front.  I am not an expert on these beasts and I am not
     responsible for any injuries, deaths, fires, unexplained explosions, or
     irate neighbors.  The following is what I have tried or seen tried.

     A little history.  I first saw one of these in operation at a North West
     Blacksmith Association (NWBA) novice class about six years ago.  Since
     then I have built three versions, Mk III is operating just fine today.
     I hope to be operating, part time at least, officially as Ravens Forge by
     the first of the year.

     Gas furnaces are commonly called forges.  In fact, a forge is open topped
     and a furnace is closed.  In my opinion an open topped version would lose
     too much heat to be valuable.  The two basic types I've seen have been
     1) The brick pile,
     2) The pipe or box.

     Basically, the furnace is a closed space, open at one or both ends, lined
     with insulation, with an inlet for air and gas to enter.  

     THE BRICK PILE
     Just what the name suggests, is a pile bricks with a pipe stuffed in one
     side.  The bricks are stacked to provide an open space and the air inlet
     is inserted into the space.  A fan is attached to the end of the pipe
     and the gas line enters between the fan and the box.  The opening is
     covered by a stack of bricks which can be moved around to provide an
     opening big enough for whatever stock is being used.  Since I haven't
     mentioned it until now, these bricks are fire or refractory brick.
     Normal red brick will explode under the thermal stress and even fire
     brick will break down over time.  

     The first brick pile I saw is still in use.  The problems with them are
     they leak flame and unburned gas though all of the joints and they
     generally lose too much heat for welding.

     THE PIPE
     This is what I am using today.  Same basic form, a closed box, insulated,
     with a pipe for the air and gas to enter.

     My furnace is a piece of 1/4 steel pipe, 16 in long, with a 1/4 plate
     welded on the back.  About half way down one side a piece of 1 1/2 in
     pipe is welded to the body.  There are two pieces of angle iron welded
     to the bottom of the case to keep it from rolling over and a shelf welded
     to the opposite side of the case from the inlet pipe.  I use the shelf to
     preheat steel and to keep my tea cup hot.

     Attached to the end of the pipe is a fan, in this case an old hair dryer.
     About midway between the fan and the case there is a hole drilled for the
     gas inlet.  I use two inches of insulation (on which more later) in the
     case and a pile of fire brick to close up the open end, with just enough
     space for my stock to enter.  The gas source is a 5lb propane bottle.
     The whole thing sits on the end of 55 gal drum.

     The air/gas inlet can be as simple as a piece of pipe or a complicated
     as you like, basically you're going to have to experiment with the size
     of the outlet end.  I put a twisted piece of steel in the end of mine
     to impart some swirl to the gas as it enters the furnace.  This works,
     but not as well as I would like.  Don't push the end of the tube to far
     into the furnace, since it will just burn off.  This is a sort of self
     correcting problem since if it is too far into the fire it will just
     disappear over time.

     I've got a valve on mine, between the fan and the gas inlet.  However,
     my fan is too wimpy for me to use the valve much.  The fan is blowing
     its heart out just keeping up.  My next modification will be a burlier
     fan.

     INSULATION
     The insulation used by most of the smiths I know is called KAOWOOL, which
     is a Johns-Manville product.  There is also INSWOOL made by A.P. Green.
     Both of these are spun ceramic blankets.  WARNING The ceramic fibers are
     fairly friable when the blanket is new and unheated.  I suspect that
     breathing them is a bad idea, so use a filter mask when building your
     furnace and during the first firing.  After that the surface gets hard
     and crusty and the problem seems to go away.

     Some smiths I read about have used castable refractory cements to build
     furnace bodies, but I don't have any direct experience with them.  Fire
     brick, KAOWOOL, and the like can be found under "Refractories" in the
     yellow pages or try ceramic supply houses.  I bought my first KAOWOOL
     from a ceramic supply.

     LIGHTING UP
     This is an exciting process.  First insert a burning piece of paper into
     the fire box, turn on the fan, then turn on the gas.  There should be a
     whump and then a burst of flame.  Now adjust the gas so that fire is not
     streaming out of every crack.  Give it enough time for the box to heat
     up (2-5 min) and off you go.

     SAFETY
     Propane is a flammable, heavier than air gas.  It will accumulate on the
     floor until it gets a spark.  Then it burns very fast.  If enclosed at
     all it will explode.  Check all of your valves and connections frequently.

     A regulator AND a blowback valve are a good idea.

     I got most of this info word of mouth and by trying it out myself.
     However, there are some publications that may be helpful.

     The summer 1991 Vol 5 Num 3 of Knives Illustrated has a pair of good
     articles on gas forges.

     ABANA
     P.O.Box 206
     Washington, MO 63090
     (314) 390-2133

     This is the largest blacksmiths association in the US and is a source
     for all kinds of good stuff.  In particular they sell plans for a furnace.

     "A recuperative gas fired forge furnace"
     Sandia National Labs.

     I don't know what they charge for these plans anymore.

     W.L. Goddard
     473 Durham Ave.
     Eugene OR 97404

     Wayne writes a column for BLADE magazine and is an ABS Master Smith.
     He also used to sell a pamphlet of basic bladesmthing info including
     a section on gas furnaces.  I don't know if these are still available.

     As I said above, I am not an expert and am not responsible for any
     problems, injuries, or unexplained fires that might result from any of
     the above info.  On the other hand, I have used a furnace described above
     to forge and heat treat approximately a dozen knives with good results
     and no injuries or other accidents.  If there are questions or if things
     are not clear (almost a certainty) please feel free to contact me at 

		keyes@monitor.wa.com

     Good forging

     Geoff Keyes
     Ravens Forge

     ----------------------------------------------

     Another recommended book is "The Complete Bladesmith" subtitled
     "Forging Your Way to Perfection", by Jim Hrisoulas.  ISBN
     0-87364-430-1, published by Paladin Press.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news.dgsys.com!en.com!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 5 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160259.23908@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:59 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 5
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:59 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 845

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 5 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

25.  What is Damascus steel?

     We often see the question "what is Damascus steel" and the next
     question, "how do I make it" or "where do I get it".  In an attempt
     to answer this question, I've put together several responses that
     have shown up in the past.

     ---------------------------
     From: dgerty@cclink.draper.com (Dave Gerty)
     Wadsworth, Kum and Sherby wrote a good article in Metal Progress, June
     '86, presenting the welded Damascus and Japanese steels as well as the
     original wootz material.  Sherby and Wadsworth wrote a very readable 6
     page article in Scientific American (Feb 1985). Most modern and
     medeival European Damascus steel is pattern welded, but the original
     material was thermomechanically processed from wootz to produce the
     pattern. To paraphrase/plagarize a little:

     Damascus steel is named for the place where Europeans first
     encountered it during the crusades.  The steel itself was made in
     India, where it was known as wootz.  It was traded in the form of
     castings or cakes about the size of a hockey puck.  The Indians either
     added carbon to wrought iron (very low carbon) or removed it from pig
     iron (>4% C).
     ---------------------------
     From: johnri@saturn.wwc.edu (RICHARD ALLAN JOHNSON)
     "Damascus" steel is usually created nowadays when 2 materials with 
     differing carbon content or differing properties such as high and low
     carbon or high carbon and nickel are forge welded together to form
     one solid billet.  My experience is that in general, Damascus does
     not stay shaving-sharp as long as straight carbon steel but when it
     dulls it leaves a microscopic saw edge that will cut flesh like
     nothing else.
     ---------------------------
     From: sfm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SCOTT F. MASTROIANNI)
     Simply speaking, Damascus steel is an antiquated term popularly used
     to describe various pattern welded steels.  The term was originally
     used to describe steel from Damascus which had intricate and subtle
     patterns in it due to the way the steel was made and wrought -- the
     pattern was a by-product rather than a set goal.  These steels
     contain alternate layers of differing alloy steels that have been
     forge welded together into a single laminated billet.  Frequently
     these billets are then twisted or physically manipulated in some
     other manner and/or rewelded to other similar billets.  After this
     laminate steel has been formed into the final shape for which it
     had been destined, i.e. a knife, object d'art, etc. it is usually
     etched with some strong acid solution.  The etching process will
     affect the different alloys in different ways; some will etch deeper,
     producing a noticeable topography, and some will turn darker.  The
     effect is to produce a pattern in the steel of great contrast and
     beauty.

     A Damascus or pattern welded steel blade does not have to be any
     weaker than single alloy, and frequently it is as good if not better
     in all properties: edge holding, toughness, cutting ability,
     sharpenability.  It is usual practice to use a high carbon and a low
     carbon alloy as the constituents of a Damascus blade.  This unites
     the best of both worlds:  The high carbon steel grants the blade its
     cutting ability while the low carbon alloy adds to the toughness and
     shock resistance.  It is not necessary to use low carbon alloys at
     all.  Two high carbon steels with greatly differing trace element
     profiles can be welded to show patterns.  I have even read of 440C
     stainless being forge welded to tool steel -- this can't be an easy
     process though.  In addition, if the pattern in the blade is complex,
     and many of the laminations cross perpendicular to the edge of the
     blade, micro-serrations are formed which add to the cutting ability
     of a well-made Damascus blade.

     Wayne Goddard, a Master Bladesmith of the ABA and a colleague of
     Jim Hrisoulas (whose book I recommend for a much better treatise on 
     this subject than I have given here), has a continuing program of
     testing the properties and performance of forged blades.  He has
     tested hundreds of blades, and found that well made pattern welded
     blades cut and hold their edges just as well as single alloy blades.
     The Damascus blades are usually much tougher than all but the
     strongest (52100 or 5160) single alloy blades.

     In addition to _The Complete Bladesmith_, I heartily recommend
     "The Blade" magazine to anyone interested in the latest developments
     in Pattern welded steel and knifemaking in general.
     ---------------------------------
     Robert Allen, rja@sun.com, wrote:

     I've had the opportunity to discuss Damascus manufacturing with
     Jerry Fisk and John Smith, two makers who do excellent Damascus.
     Let's see if I can remember the basics:

     "Damascus" as used by most makers today means a layered material made
     from a mixture of high and low carbon steels.  Makers differ the mix
     according to their pet mixes.  A billet of alternating layers is forge
     welded, then folded and re-folded to the desired number of layers.  I've
     been told that more than 200-300 layers is counter-productive, as at
     that point you start to get too much carbon migration between the layers
     and you end up with a homogeneous medium carbon steel.  The point of
     Damascus, I've been told, is that the high carbon component gives up
     a bit of carbon to the low carbon component.  When the blade is hardened,
     the high carbon component gets fairly tough, which gives you good edge
     holding, and the low carbon component gets a little harder.  The point
     of all this is that damascus is supposed to have a "micro-serrated"
     edge, which lasts a long time.  The theory as I understand it is that
     the low carbon component wears faster than the high carbon component,
     giving you an "aggressive" edge that can't be beat.  The two Damascus
     blades I have seem to bear this out, beyond what merely varying the
     the grit on a sharpening stone would do.

     After forging a Damascus blade, it is etched in one of several acid
     mixtures, which causes the pattern caused by the layering to emerge.
     Typically damascus is then blued to bring out the contrast between
     the layers.  Damascus is often modified by forming to create specific 
     patterns in the steel.  Some makers have produced small American flags
     in the pattern.  Note that such patterns are produced strictly for
     the sake of art, not for performance.  Popular performance oriented
     patterns are ladder pattern (has ladder "rungs" the length of the blade),
     San Mai (various makers wrap a carbon steel layer between two damascus
     layers), random pattern, etc.  Some makers claim the different patterns
     offer different structural or cutting advantages.  The patterns are
     made by machining the billet or blade with the pattern, then re-heating
     and the material and hammering it flat, etc.  There is also cable Damascus
     which is forge welded cable.  Most makers I've spoken with told me their
     cable Damascus looked good, but wasn't as strong as the other Damascus.
     Cable Damascus has a unique reptile-scale type pattern.

     A good Damascus should OUT-perform straight carbon steel in most areas,
     but particularly in edge holding.  Some makers say their Damascus is
     not as springlike, and so the blades will not spring back as close to
     true as a carbon steel blade will, under a vise-bending test.  I've found
     that most famous makers are honest about their Damascus.  Tim (?) Winkler
     told me he makes Damascus strictly because it looks nice.  Wayne
     Valakovich (sp?) told me that his normal Damascus isn't as good as his
     carbon steel, but that his high-density Damascus is better.  Fisk and
     Smith both say their Damascus is better than their carbon steel in most
     regards, although it still is not as springlike as their high carbon
     blades.

     I've cut down small trees with a Fisk Damascus blade, with no apparent
     wear on the edge.  I have a Smith bowie which cuts through blue jeans
     with zero apparent effort.

     -------------------
     jschmidt@netcom.com suggests that knife blanks may be available from
     K & G Finishing Supplies, (602) 537-8877.  Also everything else you
     might need to finish a knife.

     Books that discuss Damascus steel, either historically or how-to:

      Custom Knifemaking
      10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
      Tim McCreight
      Stackpole Books 1985  ISBN 0-8117-2175-2
      7 1/4" x 9 1/4" 222 pg. paperbound  ($14.95, $20.50 in Ca. when I got it)
 
      A History of Metallography:
      The development of ideas on the structure of metals before 1890
      by Cyril Stanley Smith
      1960 -- The University of Chicago
      Library of Congress Catalog Number: 60-7243

      "DAMASCUS-USA" distributes a catalog.  It says on the cover
      "World leader in hand made forged-to-shape Damascus Cutlery Steel.
      More of our knives are in use world-wide than anyone else's."
      It looks like they mostly sell ready-made Damascus knives but there
      is a page where you can order Damascus Billets (Bar stock) in any
      size or pattern.  This apparently is a one-man operation, by
      Dr. Robert Charlton (919) 482 4992.

      Another source is "True Grit", 760 Francis street, Suite N,
      Ontario, California 91761.

      The book "The Complete Bladesmith" by Jim Hrisoulas has also
      been recommended.

26.  How do I repair/replace this old leather belt?

     A big problem with some lathes is that the drive belt, or
     one/some of the belts, are assembled with the lathe and are
     not meant to be replaced without disassembling the headstock.
     This is a task that is difficult at best.  Older South Bend
     and others use a flat leather belt, glued or stitched.  Newer
     lathes sometimes use a V-belt in the headstock to transfer
     power from one set of pulleys to a set of pulleys on the
     spindle.

     For V-belts, there is at least one linked replacement.
     Gates Rubber Company makes "Nu-T-Link" belting that can
     be cut to length, threaded into position, and joined with
     special T-pins.  The pins might get in the way, depending
     on the application, so be careful to check out clearances
     before you buy.  (ref: HSM Jan/Feb 1992 pg 6-7).  You might
     look in the yellow pages in your area for bearing/belting
     or other mechanical suppliers.

     Flat leather belts sometimes just start slipping well before
     they break.  One suggested fix was to apply "friction tape"
     to the pulleys, especially if they are polished.  It needs
     occasional replacement, but is cheap and easy.  Another fix
     is to apply some sort of belt dressing; one person suggested
     contacting New England Belting in Springfield MA.  They may
     also be able to supply a replacement.  Also try Hudson Belting
     in Worcester Massachussets at (508) 756-0090.  A non-leather
     replacement is called Texalon, made by J.E. Roads & Sons,
     2100 West 11th street, Wilmington DE 19899 (phone (302) 655-6513).
     It is sold through Hermance Machine Company, 178 Campbell Street,
     Williamsport PA 17701, phone (717) 326-9157, and possibly others.
     (ref: HSM March/April 1993, pg 8-9).  Texalon is cut to length,
     the ends prepared, and then glued.

     In March/April 1992 HSM (page 41) another replacement was mentioned,
     "Powertwist" made by Fenner Mannheim, 311 West Stiegel, Mannheim PA
     17545-1010.  This is made from interlocking segments, and may be
     available from bearing suppliers such as Industrial Bearing Company.

     At least for Logan lathes, there is the manufacturer:
          Logan Actuator Co.
          4956 N. Elston Ave
          Chicago, IL 60630
          (312) 736-7500, (312) 736-6854 (FAX)
     They may even have belts correctly sized for other brands such
     as South Bend.

     I have also heard of stitching a brass cabinet hinge onto a
     leather belt, then assembling in place (as long as the hinge
     pin can be secured from dropping out!).

     Also, per a post 5/17/94, try Page Belting in Concord, New Hampshire.

27.  Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill?

     Sometimes people want to use a drill press with an X/Y table attached
     as a cheap vertical mill.  Will this work?

     Generally, yes, but you should not do this.  The bearings in a drill
     press are not designed for side loads.  This may cause premature failure
     of the bearings, and may also cause significant sideways deflection
     and wandering (if you must do this, don't expect finish-quality cuts).
     If you extend the spindle down very far towards the work, the deflection
     could be quite severe.  Mill spindles are more stout than drill spindles.

     In some presses, the chuck is held in only by a taper.  Side pressure
     could cause the chuck to fall out.  Some milling tools are not designed
     to be held by a drill chuck, or if your spindle does have a taper, the
     taper will be wrong (mills usually use either a Morse or "R" taper
     while drills often use a Jacobs taper; check this out before buying
     any tools).

     An X/Y table often does not come with finely-marked dials, and may in
     fact be quite inaccurate.  For coarse cuts this may be OK.  Note too
     that a real mill will have controlled Z-axis feed, while on a drill
     press this too will be quite rough to control.

     As for how big a cut you can make, or how accurate your setup will be,
     there is no consensus.  You'll have to set it up and try it.  Considering
     the bearing/deflection problems, moderately light cuts would be
     recommended.

     Speculation:  use end mills, not fly cutters (or at least avoid fly
     cutters, or be careful).  Depending on the setup, a cutter may enter
     the work, then due to the deflection the cutter might be driven into
     the work farther, jam, and break itself or the work.  An end mill cuts
     more or less continuously and might not have the same problem.

     Paul Amaranth <amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu> volunteered his experience:
       ---
       I have only machined soft materials (copper, plexiglass and other
       plastics).  I would not recommend using anything but very light cuts
       (if at all) in anything harder.

       As you would expect, I had a number of problems.  Fine vertical depth
       adjustments are difficult.  I set the quill stop at the desired depth
       and held it in place by hand.  You could move the table up, but most
       drill presses seem to use a fairly coarse rack and pinion for the table.

       I used an endmill, which worked fairly well.

       Any backlash in your x/y table will get you into a load of trouble.
       This may not be too serious if you're facing off a surface, but will
       cause lots of problems if you want to make slots or cutouts with any
       precision.  Backlash may also cause chatter.

       In summary: this works if it's absolutely the only way you can do it,
       you don't need a lot of precision and you're working with soft
       materials.  I got around these limitations by buying a real mill.
       ---
     Alternatives:  If you have a lathe, consider buying/making a milling
     attachment, if your work size and lathe will allow.  Consider buying
     an inexpensive mill/drill machine if you can't quite afford a mill.

     In general, some of the same comments apply to buying a mill/drill or
     other combined unit as opposed to a dedicated machine for each purpose.
     Mill/drill machines are not as rigid for milling as a pure milling
     machine, but may be the only alternative before the money runs out.
     Combinations seem to work adequately for many woodworking applications
     but metalworking generally requires a lot more force.

28.  What is involved in building a steam engine?

     NOTE: see also the FAQ entry in rec.models.railroad on live steam
     railroad modeling.
     See also http://mindlink.net/Ron_Stewart/livsteam.html,
     http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/livestm.html, and
     http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/steamfaq.htm.

     (with thanks to Tim Kirby and Ian Kirby (no relation))

     The creation of working steam engines, be they stationary engines, road
     engines, marine or rail locomotives, is quite a common hobby throughout
     the world.  Many people who would like to get involved in such modelling
     are, however, frequently at a loss as to how to start.  What follows is a
     set of simple pointers to get you on board.

     - Magazines and Journals

      There are four (English language) magazines that specifically deal with
      this subject.

        "Model Engineer" and "Engineering in Miniature" from the UK
        "Modeltec" and "Live Steam" from the USA
        (they may be available from a local worthwhile model store;
        alternatively, check the FAQ book list for the publishers)

      Reading any of these magazines will quickly give a feel for the hobby.

     - Clubs and Associations

      They are all over the world.  Look through the magazines listed above for
      club addresses; most if not all of them have the names and addresses of
      clubs all over the world.  If you can't find a club remotely near you,
      here are a couple of suggestions:

       Try posting a request on the net!  It can be a remarkable resource.
       Try writing to the editor of one of the magazines.

     - Scales and sizes

      Stationary engines are most often tabletop sizes; they can be very
      decorative and interesting exercises in machining but are not often
      "used" once built.

      Marine engines are often built as decorative or "stationary" models,
      however you may also find some installed in model boats.  Some of the
      suppliers in the magazines listed above may provide more information
      about marine engines.

      Road locomotives are usually referred to purely by scale, most often
      somewhere in the range of 3/4" scale (3/4 inch to the foot) to 4" scale
      (4":1'). A farm traction engine in 3/4" scale will probably be around 12"
      or 14" long - quite handleable by most people.  A 4" scale model is 1/3
      full size - big, heavy and arguably no longer "Model Engineering", at
      least with respect to the resources available to the average mortal.

      Rail locomotive scales can be a little more confusing because of a
      tendency to refer to them by the rail gauge that they run on.
      Unfortunately the gauges are not completely standardized for some scales
      (although one might expect that they would be). The following table lists
      the most common "larger scales" and the gauge lines they run on (based on
      a nominal 4' 8.5" so-called standard (USA) gauge track):
 
      3/4" scale (0.75":1') =   3.5" gauge
      1" scale   (1.00":1') =   4.75" or 5" gauge
      1.5" scale (1.50":1') =   7.25" or 7.5" gauge

      There are 10.25" and 15" lines as well as smaller (2.5" gauge, Gauge 1)
      that are modelled in live steam.  Availability of land, track and
      facilities will often affect a builders choice of scale.  Note that the
      modelling of narrow or broad gauge models introduces another confusion
      factor - a 1.5":1' scale model of a prototype that ran on 3'6" gauge
      track in real life would result in a track gauge of 5.25".  This would
      commonly be adjusted to fit on a 5" or 4.75" gauge line.

     - It must cost a fortune and take forever

      Not necessarily.  There are many suppliers in this hobby who can provide
      as much or as little as you need, from a set of original blueprints for a
      prototype, through those who can provide scaled drawings of proven
      models, books giving detailed operation-by-operation procedures on how
      to create a model, sets of castings that need machining or even ready
      machined kits that can be assembled on a kitchen table... or they will
      sell you a complete, ready-to-run model.

      The amount of money spent will vary typically as a function of how big
      the model will be, how much work the builder does (as opposed to buying
      ready-built parts) and what resources the builder has in his/her 
      workshop.

      Needless to say, the amount of time spent building such a model will be a
      function of the same things.  As a rule of thumb, the more you do
      yourself, the cheaper it is and the longer it will take you.

      Reading the classified advertisements in the magazines listed you may be
      able to pick up a part-complete or secondhand model for less than the
      cost of the parts new (though you are at the mercy of the workmanship of
      the builder.  Let the buyer beware).

     - What about boilers?

      The subject of boilers is complex; each country has its own rules and
      regulations - which could never be justly covered here.  Some pointers,
      though:

      + If you build a 'published plan', there is probably a published boiler
        plan to go with it.  This usually means it is a proven design, which
        is *good*.

      + Steam clubs will have some sort of regular boiler inspection and test
        requirement.  Talk to the appointed boiler inspector at your club.

      + If you are in the slightest bit wary or unhappy about building a
        boiler, *get some help from someone who knows what they are doing*.
        Some companies will sell you "standard" boilers for published designs
        ready made; there are others who specialize in building custom boilers.

        You may be able to lower the cost by doing all the preparation work and
        getting someone else to (braze/weld/whatever) the bits together.

      + Remember... this is a pressure vessel full of very hot water and steam.
        You *really* do not want it to fail.  You will probably be closest to
        the boiler if it does...

     - What's a good book on the subject?

      There are many, many books available on this and associated subjects;
      some are general texts, some specialize in particular aspects.  A good
      place to start is (unsurprisingly) read through a couple of issues of
      the magazines mentioned; most of the publishers (Village Press, TEE,
      Argus/Nexus) publish and/or sell a number of texts; writing to the
      publishers should elicit a list of currently available books.  Also try
      some of the suppliers catalogs found in the magazines; A.J. Reeves Ltd.,
      Power Model Supply and Coles Power models all carry books on general
      topics and specialist areas such as boilers, valve gear etc.

     - Do you have any other advice?

      Reading the magazines is all well and good, but try to find someone to
      talk to who has had some experience - this can not only save lots of
      frustration but can also lead to lots of very useful shortcuts and even
      material help.  It may mean finding and joining a club, which, if one is
      considering building a rail vehicle, at least means that there will be
      somewhere to run it when completed, without then having to build a track
      too!

      The first-time builder is strongly recommended to consider choosing a
      published *model* design (from one of the magazines or plan suppliers)
      where all the scaling is done, and the finished article will work if
      built according to the plans.  Converting full size prototype drawings
      to a working scale model is not recommended for the "normal" first-timer!
      As you might expect, the published plans cover some models suitable for
      the beginner and others best attempted by an experienced builder.  Again,
      we cannot recommend strongly enough getting advice from a club of some
      sort if you can find one.

      Ask the supplier if the design was ever serialized in any of the
      magazines and if the text is available, either as copies, back issues or
      as a published book - blow-by-blow instructions can be very reassuring,
      even if you know what you are doing in a machine shop.

      Choose wisely, so that interest is maintained.  In particular with rail
      models, you need some rail to run it on.  Unless you are fortunate enough
      to have plenty of land and money, you will probably want to run on a club
      track - find out what your local club has before you build or you may
      spend several years creating a beautiful working model with nowhere to
      run it.  If there are several gauges available at your track of choice,
      consider carefully which track you want to be able to run on.

29.   How do I anodize aluminum?

      (pieced together from various sources, including the newsgroup.  JK)
      (note, there is also an explanation of anodizing, and aluminum in
      general, at http://www.bikepro.com/products/metals/alum.html)

      First, this is only meant to apply to aluminum.  Other metals, such
      as titanium, niobium, and possibly magnesium and others, can also
      be anodized.

      Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, and rapidly forms an aluminum oxide
      coating that inhibits further oxidization.  This coating is useless
      as is, in terms of protecting the metal, because it is so thin.  A
      thicker coating can be produced by immersing the part in an
      electrolytic solution and passing an electrical current through it,
      similar to electroplating.  The resulting film is nearly colorless,
      and can be easily dyed because it is very porous at the molecular
      level.  Then, by placing the part in boiling water, the film's
      pores can be sealed; the oxide changes from one form to another
      as a result.

      To be more specific, parts should be very clean and grease-free.
      Commercial plants will first clean and etch the surface in a caustic
      solution, such as lye (sodium hydroxide), followed by a thorough
      wash.  The parts are placed in an acid solution, such as 15-25%
      sulphuric acid, and connected to the positive source of a power
      supply (use only aluminum hardware to make the connection; no
      copper in the solution!).  The part(s) comprise the anode, and the
      cathode is lead (lead sheet, or the whole tank might be lead).
      Appropriate current is applied, e.g. 1.5 amps per decimeter (3.4
      square inches).  This lasts 15-25 minutes if no dying is planned,
      or 45-60 minutes for dying.

      Dying is the next step, if desired.  Since the pores are extremely
      small, many common dyes will not work.  Some wool dyes are known
      to work, or you can purchase commercial anodizing dyes from an
      industrial supplier.  Typically this involves immersion in the
      dye solution, which may have to be heated to be effective.
      (Steve Rayner reports that telescope builders like a black
      anodizing dye called Nigrosin Biological Stain, which is water
      soluble and mixed 1 teaspoon full to a quart of water;  his
      bottle is labeled Aldrich 19,828-5 and cost around $35.00 Canadian,
      for 25 grams).

      Sealing is then done by putting the part in boiling water, which
      changes the film from gamma aluminum oxide a hydrated form
      called boehmite.  Boil for about 20 minutes.

      Another anodizing process involves using chromic acid.  This is
      not suitable for alloys with more than 5% copper.  The film is
      thinner, but very durable.  The very thin film is also a benefit
      when very close tolerances must be maintained.  However, because
      chromic acid is a very nasty chemical, its use on an amateur
      basis is discouraged, and its commercial use may be closely regulated.

      Anodizing is sensitive to the type of alloy.  For example, alloys
      for die casting have a lot of silicon, which makes it pour and
      mold well, but it makes anodizing almost impossible.

      By all means, find a few references and read them carefully before
      attempting anodization.  If at all possible, try it out on scrap
      pieces before attempting it on your masterpiece.  Be sure to flush
      the part completely to remove remaining acid.
 
      An alternative is to use a commercial firm to do the anodizing.
      Some net folks report they can be a bit rough to deal with, as
      they may be more used to dealing with large jobs and may not
      appreciate a home machinist with a single 5-inch part.  Look
      in the phone book under anodizing, plating, or electroplating.

      Some have reported using a lye solution to treat the surface,
      which yields a fairly uniform fuzzy surface, that may be
      acceptable as a final surface without further treatment.  Don't
      use a strong solution or the aluminum will disappear too fast;
      do this in a well ventilated area, as hydrogen gas is emitted,
      stay away from flames/sparks, and remember that lye will eat
      people as well as aluminum!  The resulting surface can be dyed,
      or painted with a chromate primer.  (One tablespoon of lye per
      pint of water has been suggested).

      Another alternative is a product called Aluminum Black from
      Birchwood Casey, which is often advertised in model railroading
      magazines, and may also be available via gun stores (it is in the
      Brownells catalog).  Brownells also lists a nickel plating
      solution for aluminum, though it appears non-trivial to use.

      See also the ArtMetal WWW pages at 
      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html
      for information on anodizing for artists (more specifically,
      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/TOC/finishes/anodize.html)

      References:

          Aluminum (Volume 3):  Fabrication and Finishing
          Kent Van Horn, Editor
          American Society for Metals, 1967
          Library of Congress #66-16222
          813 pages

          Electroplating for the Amateur, by L. Warburton.
          Model & Allied Publications.
          Available via Argus.

          The Surface Treatment and Finishing of Aluminum and its Alloys,
          Edited by S. Wernick, R. Pinner, and P.G. Sheasby.  Published
          1987 by ASM International, Metals Park, Ohio.  2 volumes.

          ARTISTS ANODIZING ALUMINUM- the sulphuric acid process,
          by David LaPlantz.  ISBN: 0-942002-03-2, apparently published by
          Press de LaPlantz Inc.
          Box 220 Bayside, CA USA 95524;  It's about $20 US.
          The book is extremely thorough and contains several methods of
          anodizing with lots of pictures and references.
          It is intended for small individual pieces, at home
          in the garage or basement.

          Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory.
          Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc.
          One University Plaza,
          Hackensack, NJ 07601

          Anodizing Aluminum, by Harold Hoffman.
          Available from H & H Publihing, 7174 Hoffman Road, San Angelo, Texas,
          USA 76905, or Centaur Forge.
          This book seems fairly complete, with supplier sources.

          Anodizing Aluminum in the Amateur Workshop, Ham Radio
          Magazine, January 1979, pages 62-69, by David W. Hembling.
          Sadly, this magazine is out of business, but should be in
          larger libraries, or available via inter-library loan.
          This article lists several other references, including
          addresses for dye makers.

          Passivating Aluminum Alloys, in 73 Magazine, September
          1965, pages 74-80, by Robert A. Kidder.

          Some jewelry-making suppliers deal with anodizing.

          The magazines Strictly IC and Model Engineer allegedly
          have discussed this, but I don't have exact references.

          Argus Workshop Practice Series, number 11, by J Poyner.

          Sandoz Chemicals Corp (now apparently Clarion Corp) supplies
          dyes for aluminum anodizing.  Their phone number is (704) 331-7000.

          Kepro in Fenton, MO sells black aluminum anodizing dye for their
          aluminum anodized nameplate kit.  They sell it in small quantities.
          The phone number is (800) 325-3878 or (314) 343-1630.

          How to Anodize Aluminum, Popular Science February 1963,
          pages 144-146.

      ADDENDUM:  On May 16, 1996, Patrick M. Riggs (pmr0811@tamu.edu)
      posted this nice description of how *he* anodizes aluminum, and
      copper as well.  JK

         A long time ago, I came to this newsgroup asking for answers on how to
         anodize aluminum, and nobody really had advice.  Since then, of course,
         I've seen lots of suggestions.  In any case, at that point I promised
         to post if I had any results, and never posted except to mention my 
         success.  Well, while there are probably better methods out there, this
         is what worked for me, and has continued to work for me.  I hope this
         is helpful.  BTW, it has been a while, and Sandoz chemical is now
         called  Clarion corp.  Their proprietary anodal ms-1 is basically a
         weak nickel acetate solution.  As to where to get sulphuric acid, I
         wouldn't know, since I work at a university where such things are
         readily available.

         I hope this helps, and thanks to those who gave me advice along the
         way.

         Oh yeah, and be careful . . . sulphuric acid is dangerous (I have "bad 
         lab practice" reminders in more than one pair of shorts -- not that I 
         recommend wearing shorts in the lab . . .) and eats an awful lot of 
         otherwise sturdy materials.  Also, beware of the high currents.  I, of 
         course, take no responsibility for anything (and that seems to be my 
         problem in general).

         Hard anodizing:

         Sulfuric acid at 13% by volume, at a temperature of 3 degrees C.  Note 
         that the temperature is not overly important, so long as it is close.
         The current density should be ~15 amps/square foot.  The aluminum
         piece should stay in the bath for at least 2 hours, with four hours
         being optimum.

         As an alternative to hard anodization, leave all conditions the same 
         except for the temperature, which should be 70-75 degrees C.  The 
         difference in the two procedures is the thickness and quality of the 
         anodic layer.  Hard anodization leave the material more absorptive.

         The cathode, or negative lead, should be lead, with the anode to cathode 
         proportion being about 1:1.

         For dyeing the object, there are two options:

         Rit dye:

         Rit is a standard wool dye, which can be purchased at any grocery
         store.  This method is both inexpensive and offers a wide variety of
         colors.  The drawbacks are that Rit, an organic dye, is not light
         fast, and will fade in direct sunlight.

         With Rit, simply prepare a bath of about 50ml/litre at about 70
         degrees celsius.  One hour minimum is required, with the preferable
         duration matching the anodization time.


         Black MLW:

         Black MLW can be purchased from Sandoz Chemical (my contact was Ron 
         Rupple (214) 423-1674, the sales rep for texas.  The company is based
         at (704) 331-7000.)  The price is between $15/lb and $60/lb (don't
         have an exact quote, but this is the range of prices for all of their
         black dyes).  Small test quantities can be obtained.

         Black MLW is favorable because it is a) light fast in the visible
         (being inorganic), and b) a rather flat black.  It's drawbacks are
         expense (a minimum order is 5 lbs, which is an awful lot of dye), and
         requires special working procedures (the dust is hazardous to the
         lungs).

         Black MLW is, however, simpler, and more convenient, to use.  The 
         temperature should be between 51 and 60 degrees C.  The duration being 
         5-10 minutes depending on quality of blackness desired.  The 
         concentration (keep this in mind before ordering 5+ pounds) is 10 
         grams/litre.

         Sealing:

         The sealing process hydrates the porous anodic layer, closing it, 
         protecting it, and sealing in the dye.  For most applications, sealing 
         is desirable.

         Supposedly, this process can be done with boiling water, but I've only 
         managed the following.

         1)  Simply leave the piece in the dye bath, and boil the dye bath for
         one hour.  This will require removal of the excess dye afterwards and
         is not generally recommended.

         2) 2% anodal MS-1 (again from sandoz chemical (though, nickel acetate 
         should work as a substitute).  The temperature of the bath should be 
         between 70 and 87 degrees C, with a duration of 5-20 minutes
         (depending on porosity and thickness of coating . . . longer never
         hurts).

         Note that after each step, the object should be rinsed with deionized 
         water to avoid contamination.  I did this all with distilled water, 
         though deionized water should still work.

         Important information about the piece.  The purity of the aluminum is 
         important.  The higher the silicon content, the less likely the
         process is too work.  Also, the product should be newly machined (for
         a shinier, more professional finish) or sandblasted (for a flatter,
         though less even, finish).  All oil, dirt, glass beads, etc, must be
         removed prior to the anodization process.  This can be done by
         thorough cleaning with acetone and methonal (soap is dangerous, since
         phosphates in the solution tend to negate the anodization process).
         For better cleaning, immerse the part in 1 tsp/200 litres NaOH (be
         careful).  For small parts this is undesirable, since the NaOH
         actually removes aluminum.  After this bath, a smutty brown finish is
         obtained.  To remove, rinse the part, and soak in a 10% nitric acid
         solution until a satin finish is obtained.

         Copper anodization:

         While aluminum anodization is typically clear (depending on the alloy
         and the process used (there are various other processes using
         different acids, the most common being chromic and oxalic), copper,
         at least via this process, anodizes black.

         The desired voltage is 6 volts across the circuit.  The bath should be 
         120 grams/ litre of NaOH.  The temperature MUST be between 82 and 99 
         degrees C or the process will not even begin.  The duration of the 
         anodization process is 30 seconds to 3 minutes, depending again on the 
         quality of black desired . . . more time, flatter black.  The cathode
         is Steel in a 1:1 ratio.  Again the piece must be dirt/ grease free.

         This process will also work for brass, though it is shinier.  Also, 
         different colors may appear under the black, depending on the brass.

         For both of these metals, remember that they oxidize quickly in air 
         (which is not the same as the anodized layer . . . though in aluminum, 
         this layer is also protective).  Therefore, they should be anodized as 
         soon as possible after machining and preparing.


      ADDENDUM:  On August 12, 1995, Jerry Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com)
      posted the following on blackening aluminum.  In this case it is
      not an anodizing finish, but this seemed to best place to stick
      the information!  JK

        There have been several postings about blackening aluminum recently.
        I  wrote an article for *Live Steam* magazine back about 1977 on the
        subject and have modified it a little since then.  I do use it myself
        and thought that it would be of interest to the newsgroup.  So:

                                BLACKENING ALUMINUM
                                         by
                                  JEROME KIMBERLIN

              There are several ways to color aluminum black and among them
         are black anodizing and paint.  You could rub dirt into the
         aluminum surface, I suppose, but of all the methods, I think
         chemical coloring is the superior method.  It is certainly
         cheaper, faster, and home use allows the model engineer greater
         flexibility in the timing of his decoration of models in progress.
              Surface preparation of parts to be colored black is all
         important as any irregularities are not covered by this finish.
         Paint does build up and fill in scratches and other voids.
         Castings, however, should look like castings if the prototype used
         castings, so surface finish is always adjustable to the builders
         idea.  The point here is to emphasize that this blackening
         technique will not cover up mistakes.
              You will need three chemicals.  These are: Nitric Acid,
         Copper Nitrate, and Potassium Permanganate.  You will also need
         some good quality water - either distilled or deionized.  I will
         give the dimensions of the mixture in both metric and English
         units so that both types of measures are accommodated:
              Take:    water         3 quarts          750ml
              Add      Acid          1/2 oz              5ml
              Add      Copper        3 oz               25gm
              Add      Permanganate  1 oz               10gm
              Add      Water to make 1 gal              1 liter

              Obviously you will have to make up more or less solution to
         fill the container you will use to color aluminum parts and the
         parts to be colored should be completely covered by the solution.
         You should use a glass or plastic container.  A metal container
         will poison the solution prematurely.
              At 75 degrees F (24 C) temperature, the blackening process
         will take about 15 minutes using a fresh solution.  If it takes
         longer it means the solution is deficient in one of the components.
         Usually, copper nitrate and nitric acid need be added.
              Aluminum is a strange metal to most of us.  While we cannot
         see it, the surface of a newly machined or cleaned piece of
         aluminum combines with oxygen in the air to form a self protecting
         coating of aluminum oxide.  This happens within minutes.  If this
         surface continues to grow (get thicker) the blackening solution
         described here will not work satisfactorily.  Thus, the piece to
         be colored should be cleaned just before immersing into the
         coloring solution.  In my experience, glass bead blasting is a
         superior way to clean the aluminum surface and the choice of bead
         size determines surface finish.  Once the bead blasting has been
         accomplished, the beads can be washed off with hot water and the
         aluminum piece immersed in the blackening solution.  I recommend
         that the time between blasting (cleaning) and immersion in the
         blackening solution be less than two hours.  I once waited five
         hours and was disappointed in the results.  Once the blackening
         process has been completed, wash off the workpiece with tap water,
         drain and spray with WD-40 or other water displacing oil.

              There are a number of ways to clean aluminum satisfactorily.
         It is possible to simply sand the surface clean, or scrub it clean
         with an abrasive.  One can also chem clean aluminum by degreasing
         the workpiece then dipping it into lye (Draino, for instance) for
         a few minutes or seconds as required, then rinsing.  The shape of
         the workpiece and the model engineer's facilities often dictate
         what method of surface preparation will be used.
              Model engineers wishing to use this solution to blacken
         aluminum castings or other parts should be aware that the chemical
         components may be hazardous.  While the solution itself is not
         particularly dangerous it can make your hands purple, so use
         rubber or plastic gloves.  Potassium Permanganate is classified as
         an oxidizer even though dilute solutions of it are used throughout
         the world to sterilize vegetables used in salads, etc.  Concentrated
         nitric acid is just plain bad.  The technique for using it is
         to pour out a little in a glass container and then use an eye
         dropper to transfer the liquid to a measuring container when the
         volume wanted is small, such as that described here.  Nitric acid
         also turns your hands yellow, hurts, and removes fingerprints.  A
         good way to avoid eye damage is to wear a face shield such as the
         one you should be wearing when working in front of your grinder.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news.dgsys.com!en.com!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 9 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160308.23912@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:08 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 9
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:08 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 969

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 9 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

40.  Patinas

     "Patina" -- "A surface appearance of something grown beautiful esp. with
     age or use."

     Usually used in reference to copper, but also applicable to bronze,
     steel, and other materials.

     This is a very broad topic that depends greatly on the material being
     treated, purity of the treatment, environment, and eye of the beholder.
     There must be hundreds or thousands of ways to do this, and some of them
     may be old wives' tales.  I have no way to verify these!  For the most
     part these are quotes from postings.  For the most part it seems to
     rely on ammonia or other nitrogen compounds.  Note that ammonia can cause
     brass to stress fracture (e.g. don't clean firearm cartridges with it!).

     Cleaning the work is often stressed, and you can't usually get the
     patina quickly.  It takes time to simulate age!

     "It is common practice to treat copper roofs with ammonium sulphate to
     form the green color quickly; it is not exactly an oxide, and simple
     weathering sometimes does not do the trick."  (From: John Whitmore,
     whit@carson.u.washington.edu).

     "Unless you want to waste a lot of time experimenting and then still
     possibly not get a coating that will stay green, use a commercial patina
     made for that purpose.  We use it in stained glass work.  I'm sure it is
     available from anywhere that sells sculpture or architectural supplies."
     (From: John De Armond, jgd@dixie.com).

     "Currently I patinate the brass with "Verde-It" (a chloride acid) and a
     blacking acid (selenium-based).  Can anyone recommend other surface
     treatments?  I also shine with anti-oxidants "Nevr-Dull" and "Peek".
     How long will these last?  Can I do better?  (I got tired of lacquering
     wires...)"  (From: Matt Brand, brand@b.ils.nwu.edu)

     [Electroplating a patina] "...the method consists of treating the copper
     anodically in a solution of:
         magnesium sulphate    10 percent
         magnesium hydroxide    2 percent
         potassium bromate      2 percent
     Solution is held at about 95 degrees C, current density of about
     0.04 A/(dm squared) for fifteen minutes. Initially deposit is
     CuS04.Cu(OH)2, but increases in basicity on exposure until the
     composition of the patina is reached.
     This is from H. Silman, et. al., Protective and Decorative Coatings for
     Metals, Finishing Publications..."  (From: Rob Pauley,
     rob.pauley@gtri.gatech.edu).

     "Here are a couple of green patinas to try:
       1 Tbsp ammonium chloride (Sal ammoniac)
       1 Tbsp salt
       1 oz ammonia
       1 qt. bottled or distilled water
     Mix all in a plastic container that will be only for the patina mix and
     not used for other things.  Warm or hot water will help the solids
     dissolve better.  Spray the patina on the clean oil free copper and let
     set for 2 or 3 hours to dry then repeat 3 or so more times until you get
     what you want.  You can also soak sawdust with the patina and pack it
     around the copper piece and seal it in a plastic bag for a day or 3.
     I have never used this patina but I have seen it and it can be very nice
     and smooth.
     I have used the following patina a lot.  In a glass container mix up some
     nitric acid with water (1 part acid (reagent 75% pure) to 2 parts water).
     Always add the acid to the water slowly.  Add to that mix some scraps of
     copper to dissolve in the acid until the acid no longer dissolves the
     copper.  Do this outside where no body will get into it because it makes
     a deadly nitrous gas (not nitrous oxide).  The solution will be a very
     dark blue.  You have just made cupric nitrate.  You can use a brush to
     apply the patina.  Using a torch to accelerate the drying can work well
     but be careful not to over heat because it will turn black and crusty.
     The fumes are not good to breathe.  This patina can also be used like
     the first patina.
     All patinas can, after they have set a few days, be waxed with paste wax
     (car wax).  I have a copper bowl with the second patina on it that was
     waxed 3 years ago and it still looks good."  (From: marck3@aol.com)

     "You can get cupric nitrate at chemical supply houses. It works vary fast.
     I got a nice effect by dissolving about 2 tablespoons of the cupric
     nitrate crystals in a plastic spray bottle (with about 1 quart water).
     This was one of those sprayers that "Fantastic" cleaner comes in.
     Pre-heating the copper alters the mottling and texture too.
     Experiment on copper scraps with different strengths of solution and
     amount of patina solution applied."  (From: Daniel Wold, danw@panix.com)

     "To colour Copper or Brass Green:
         Cupric nitrate       Cu(NO3)2         40 grams
         Ammonium chloride    NH4CL            40 grams
         Calcium chloride     CaCl2, 2H2O      40 grams
     Add distilled water to make 1 litre.  Brush onto a clean surface.
     This is from an old text book, I haven't tried this one, but others in
     the book have worked well for me."  (From: Steve Rayner,
     ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA)

     "The most common is to wash with a mild solution of salammoniac dissolved
     in water. Just brush (or preferably spray) it on & allow to air dry.
     Repeat as necessary to achieve the desired results.
     If you want an old roofers trick, and one that is much more effective I
     might add, piss on it!  It is still common practice for the roofing crew
     to all pee in a communal bucket and pour it over the roof at the end of
     each day to force a patina."  (From: Gary Hubert, gary.hubert@canrem.com)

     "Well, one thing that works well for me is dormant spray, the
     lime/sulfur kind.  You can get it at your gardening supply store.
     Produces some really colorful patinas depending on strength of solution
     and how long you dip the metal." (From: coppers@teleport.com)

     "Personally I use a solution of lime/sulfur dormant spray (very weak) and
     let it sit for up to three months in solution.  Or if your area has hard
     water (lots of minerals) just drop it in the toilet tank and let it sit
     until it looks good (this is a technique used by antiquities forgers).
     A good solid patina takes time."  (From: Carl Mork, carl.mork@nwcs.org)

     "NOTE: no patina is truly "tough".  None of them can resist scratching.
     All you can expect is that light surface contact won't 'knock' bits off.
     You should plan to treat any patina with lacquer or plain wood wax.
     Three methods come to mind:

       Get a plastic or glass sealable container.  Put your copper in it and
       cover it with a layer of salt.  Put an open container of ammonia in
       there.  Seal the whole thing up, come back several hours later.  This
       gives a blue-green surface.

       Make up a solution of 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon
       ammonium chloride.  Put it in a spray bottle.  Heat copper to over the
       boiling point of water.  Lightly spray the surface.  The water should
       immediately "sizzle"  off.  The color will take 5-15 minutes to develop.
       May be repeated.  This gives a more green than blue color.

       Get a container, fill with sawdust.  Saturate the sawdust with ammonia.
       Add lots of salt, mix well.  Bury your copper in it.  Come back in an
       hour.  This gives a very nice speckly blue&green surface.  You can
       control the speckle by how well it's all mixed together and how fine
       the sawdust is."
     (From:  Mike Schechter Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu)

     "From  - 'Creative Gold and Silversmithing' by Sharr Choate
       Colouring Copper Green
       "A patina is produced on the metal by brushing the surface with a
       solution consisting of 1 gram each of copper nitrate, ammonia chloride,
       calcium chloride, and 1 ounce of water.  When the colour is reached the
       article is set aside to dry.
       A patina can also be produced by pouring a hot solution consisting of 1
       1/2 grams of copper nitrate and 6 ounces of water onto the metal and
       allowing it to dry."  (Quoted by darrell.markewitz@ambassador.com)

     "The best 'cookbook' I have with patina formula is:
         METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS [see reference section, below]
     For pre-mixed patina and coloring solutions in small amounts, the JAX
     brand handled by Merritt's Antiques at 610-689-9541 are OK. They have
     several at $7.50/pint.  For my own work, I brew my own.  Depending on
     what color or effect I want, I use cupric nitrate, ammonium chloride
     and burned oils, alone or in combination.  For those who want to
     experiment with small pieces, get some "gun bluing" at the local sporting
     goods store and try different times and dilutions."
     (from: brnzcaster@aol.com)

     "This [METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS] is an OK book.  Starting from
     absolute scratch, I have been able to get the simplest recipes to work.
     However, *there is no substitute for watching somebody do it*.  My advice
     to amateurs is, read the book first, then spy on your local foundry, and
     see what the motion is like for heating an area evenly with a torch, how
     to use a stipple brush, the way a cupric nitrate solution should sizzle,
     how to keep drips away, what to do when you've flamed the end of your
     brush and there are bits of charred bristle everywhere.  A thousand
     things that will never be in the book."  (From: sheba@panix.com)

     "Regarding the hot oil patina: I preheat the metal, same as with the
     aqueous solutions.  Use the *minimum* amount of oil. Sometimes I cut it
     with mineral spirits.  Mostly, I stick with either Linseed or Tung oils."
     (From: brnzcaster@aol.com)

     "Copper (II) sulfide solution will react with the copper, but will
     produce a greener tint.  It does interesting things to other metals, too.
     Copper sulfide comes as a solution, or translucent-blue pebbles (like
     rock salt) or a fine blue powder.  The latter two can be dissolved in hot
     water to produce the solution."  (From: Derek Streeter, dms27@cornell.edu)

     "I believe you mean copper sulphate.  Copper sulphide is a black,
     insoluble material responsible for the color of some patinas along with
     the oxide.  I have used copper sulphate, and it fits the description of
     the compound that you are describing.  Have fun."
     (From: jgerken@sdcc10.ucsd.edu)

     "As for coloring metal - this is not my field, but I know a tiny bit
     about it.  In my opinion, it is best to color metal by changing the color
     of the metal itself (rather than by painting it).  There are several
     books on the subject; "The Art of Patinas" and "The Coloring, Bronzing
     and Patinization of Metals" [see reference section, below] are two that
     come to mind.  These processes involve oxidizing or chemically reacting
     the surface of the metal to make it change color - usually, this also
     protects the metal from further reaction to the elements.  If you wish to
     obtain some references on this subject, I can recommend [Craft Books].
     They have, at least, the book on Coloring, Bronzing and Patination."
     (From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org)

     "Clean and degrease the metal and dunk it in liquid flours of sulfur.
     Brass doesn't put on a patina like bronze (brass being around 1/3 zinc).
     At least that's my experience."  (From: coppers@teleport.com)

     "A salt water or vinegar solution sprayed on the metal and sealed with an
     open container of ammonia will produce a blue patina.  I have enclosed it
     in tupperware and garbage bags according to the size of the piece.  The
     fumes will react with the solution."  (From: romeug@aol.com)

     "A permanent Patina for Copper (quoting from Henley's book):
       Green -
        Sodium chloride        37 parts
        Ammonia water          75 parts
        Ammonium chloride      37 parts
        Strong wine vinegar 5,000 parts
     Mix and dissolve.  Apply to object to be treated, with a camel's-hair
     pencil.  Repeat the operation until the desired shade of green is reached.
     <end quote>
     First off you may be wondering where to get these chemicals:
         Sodium chloride - This is table salt (NaCl)
         Ammonia water - This is what you buy when you buy liquid ammonia
           cleaner (get the stuff without any other cleaning agents added).
         Ammonium chloride - This is a little tougher.  This is sometimes used
           in things like solder flux.  However, it is also found in many of
           those kids chemistry sets.  Try a good hobby shop - they often
           carry replacement chemicals for those sets (these are usually a
           little pricey for what you get, but you don't need much).
         Strong wine vinegar - Well, you can by wine vinegar from the grocery
           store (this is maybe 7% acetic acid).  However, since acetic acid
           is the chemical we're looking for, and it's also used in photo
           fixing, you can find acetic acid in 28% and glacial(100%) at a good
           photo shop.  28% is by far good enough.
     Henley's says to use a camels hair brush, I've used one of those small,
     triangular makeup sponges with success.  Keep in mind that the patina
     (verdigris) will appear as the solution dries on the copper surface.
     Several applications will probably necessary to get the depth of color
     you want.  Heating the copper helps also, but isn't necessary.  Note!
     Don't soak the copper in the solution, it won't turn green and the
     acetic acid will eventually start to eat away the copper!

     Also, the copper should be CLEAN when you do this.  Steel wool and and
     then wipe it with Hydrochloric acid (Muratic acid at your hardware store
     - and be careful - rubber gloves, protect the eyes and get some
     ventilation).  I usually wipe off whatever remains of the HCL when I'm
     done with a little distilled water."  (From: Eric Kasten,
     Tigger@ibm.cl.msu.edu)

     [Brown/black on bronze] "Liver of sulfur is, as obtained by me from Bryant
     Labs, Potash Sulfurated (Lumps).  I think that means "lumps of sulfurated
     potash".  It turns copper alloys brown, more or less attractively varying
     with the exact alloy.  By using a very concentrated solution and/or
     several applications a dark brown can be produced, but nothing I'd call
     "black".  Adding some ammonium sulfide (a _truly foul-smelling liquid
     also obtainable from Bryant) helps for that, it gives a bluer-toned brown
     by itself.  Either works ok cold and very well hot."
     (From: sheba@panix.com)

     [It has been reported that "liver of sulfur" is potassium sulfide, or
     a mixture of potassium sulfides.  JK]

     "Oppi Untracht has a few books out, one is called "Jewelry Concepts and
     Technology", published by Doubleday.  Another is "Metal Techniques for
     Craftsmen (Persons)", also try Rio Grande Supply 800 443-6766, they have
     great tech support and supplies."  (From: Denise M. Maier,
     denisem@nyc.pipeline.com)

     [Rust finish on Ironwork} "Many metalworker/artists use muriatic acid to
     get the finish you are after.  Use with plenty of ventilation!  Do some
     background checking on how to mix acid with water (never pour water into
     acid; do only vice-versa), what dilution to use, how to neutralize
     surface after etching, how to handle, store, and dispose of the acid.
     You can get some at a masonry-supplies store (it is used to etch unwanted
     concrete grout off stone and brick).  Be careful!"  (From: Laurence R
     Swain, lswain@world.std.com)

     Steve Rayner (ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA) posted the following on
     March 6 1996 as a way of bluing/blackening brass:

        I just found this in an old Popular Mechanics book.  The formula may
        be of use to some of you.

            Sodium thiosulphate (Hypo)     1/2 pound
            Lead acetate...................2   Oz.
            Water..........................1 gallon (U.S.)

        Heat to near boiling  (200 F.), and immerse work piece in solution 
        suspended by a brass wire.  Add more lead acetate to deepen the colour, 
        and speed up the reaction.

        I would suggest using a pyrex container, as the hypo will react with
        iron directly blackening the container.

     - - - - - - - -

     An article by Rand Esser, esser@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net, was posted
     as part of a "newsletter" from ArtMetal.  Rand has kindly allowed me to
     include the information here, with the following notice:

       Copyright 1994 Rand Esser. May be reproduced without permission by
       not for profit groups for educational use only.

     The introduction included:

       Rand Esser, a Raleigh, North Carolina metalworker who specializes in
       lamps and furniture, demonstrated the application of various patinas
       on steel and brass.  Rand uses chemicals to achieve different oxidized
       surfaces on metal, often layering patinas on top of each other to
       achieve unique and distinctive effects.  The patinas are then sealed
       with hot wax.

     The article follows:

     PATINAS ON STEEL
     ----------------

     By Rand Esser

     The patinas demonstrated at the March 12 meeting were copper sulfate
     solution, Black Topaz, and Rusty Red.

     I mix my own copper sulfate solution by mixing copper sulfate crystals
     with water, a little at a time, until the water will no longer dissolve
     the copper sulfate.  Copper sulfate is available at Southern States
     stores.

     Black Topaz and Rusty Red are sold by Sur-Fin Chemical Corporation.
     Sur-Fin will send you a finish kit including seven six ounce bottles of
     their finishes for $50 (they also sell patinas for other metals).  Larger
     sizes from one to fifty-gallons are available.

     These finishes result in a variety of effects depending on strength of the
     solution, reaction time, relative humidity, temperature, surface texture,
     and type of top coating.

     The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solution create similar effects.  The
     Rusty red seems to be a bit more red and the copper sulfate is a bit
     more orange.  I prefer the copper sulfate solution.  It is more beautiful
     and less expensive than the Rusty Red.

     TIPS FOR PATINAS ON STEEL
     -------------------------

     The surface to be finished must be completely clean.  Remove all scale by
     sandblasting or wire brushing.  Different surface textures will create
     different results.  Sand blasted surfaces tend to be more dull and 
     require a shorter reaction time.  Wire brushed surfaces will be shinier,
     but require a longer reaction time.  I sandblast first to remove the
     scale and then wire brush to create a shiny surface.

     Remove all grease, oil, and, dirt with mineral spirits.  Surface must be
     white glove clean for best results.  Different concentrations of the finish
     solutions give different results.  Sur-Fin recommends diluting the Black
     Topaz 1:10 with water.  I have used the Black Topaz at 1:5 with a very
     brown /black result.  Different reaction times give different results. I
     usually leave the solutions on for just a few minutes.  The Black Topaz
     ranges from a jet black with a short reaction time to bluish, greenish,
     black with longer reaction times to brown/black with very long reaction
     times.  The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solutions range from a light
     copper plating effect to light rust to a dark crusty rust depending upon
     reaction time.

     Some interesting effects can be created by using two or more finishes on
     the same piece.  The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solution will work on
     top of the Black Topaz finish.  The Black Topaz does not seem to work on
     top of the others.  I often begin with the Black Topaz and drizzle, drip,
     or brush a pattern on specific areas of the surface, leaving other areas
     bare.  I then allow the Black Topaz solution to react until it is dry.
     Then I come back and coat the entire piece with the Black Topaz solution
     and quickly rinse the piece in water to stop the reaction.  The areas
     treated first will have a different tone than the areas treated later.
     I then come back over the piece with the Rusty Red and/or copper sulfate
     solution and brush, drip, drop or drizzle it in specific areas to create
     coppery or rusty highlights.  The entire piece is then thoroughly rinsed
     with water to stop the reaction.

     TOP COATING
     -----------

     Once you have stopped the reaction by rinsing with water, allow the piece
     to air dry or speed up the process by heating it with a torch.  At this
     point the piece is not very pretty.  You will not know what the piece will
     ultimately look like until you apply a top coat.

     I usually heat the piece with a torch until it is barely hot and then
     apply wax with a lint free cloth.  I have heard that linseed oil also
     works well.  At this point the patina will reveal itself in its final
     state.  By applying more wax and rubbing I can usually remove some of
     the more rusty spots revealing coppery areas.  Additional coatings of
     wax will create a shinier finish with more depth.

     SAFETY
     ------

     These chemicals are poisonous. They  will irritate your skin and eyes.

     Wear rubber gloves, goggles, protective clothing, and a respirator.

     Read the labels on these products and dispose of properly.

     Keep them away from your kids.

     PERSISTENCE
     -----------

     It takes time and experimentation to get good results with these
     chemicals.  Your finishes are likely to look different from mine due to
     the many variables involved.  I am continually experimenting with
     different finishes on metals, steel in particular.  I would like to
     compile a data base of information on this subject to share with other
     metalworkers.

     If you have information that you would like to share please let me know.

     Rand  Esser
     302 Glascock  Street
     Raleigh, North  Carolina 27604

     or send e-mail to:
     esser@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net

     Vendor Addresses for Pre-Mixed Patinas:
     ---------------------------------------

     Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
     1530 Spence St.
     Los  Angeles, CA 90023
     (213) 262-8108

     Chemicals for mixing your own patinas.
     Bryant Laboratory
     1101 Fifth St.
     Berkeley, CA 94710
     800 367-3141

     Supplier of Brass, Copper, sheet, plate, bar, etc.
     Metal Supply Co.
     4001 G St.
     Philadelphia, PA 19124
     800-638-2521

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------
     [end of Rand's article]

     On March 29, 1996, Charles Lewton-Brain (brainnet@cadvision.com) posted
     some advice on cleaning, and patinas on steel.

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     It is really impportant to have a clean surface for goodresults: This may
     be Fantastick scrubbings, or more:

     Cleaning Metal Surfaces,    copyright Lewton-Brain 1985-91
     For all metal coloring and electroplating a clean metal surface is
     essential.  The cleaning process must remove mineral oils, organic oils
     and greases as well as traces of chemicals on the surface.  It must remove
     oxidation which might interfere with the metal coloration or plating
     adhesion and it should possible activate or roughen the metal surface to
     better receive the treatment.

     Cleaning may be accomplished using mechanical (abrasive), chemical
     (heating, solvents, pickling with acids) and electrolytic
     (electrocleaning, electrostripping) means.  Examples of easily achieved
     clean surfaces include sandblasted ones and ones scrubbed well twice with
     rinsings using Fantastic.  A pumice rub followed by scrubbing with
     dishwashing liquid and ammonia on a toothbrush does pretty well.  Repeated
     scrubs with Fantastic work.  Best of all is electrocleaning.

     A simple procedure is:

     1.0   Anneal and pickle in suitable acid.
     1.1   Rinse 3-5 times in running water.
     1.2   Dip into simmering ammonia and detergent solution and scrub well.
     1.3   Rinse well 5 - 10 times.

     NB: electrocleaning can be used after step 1.3.  While steps 1.0-1.3
     produce a quite clean surface by themselves if one is electrocleaning it
     is not a bad idea to pre-clean using steps 1.0-1.3 so as to make the
     electrocleaning solution last longer and lower it's work load in
     cleaning the metal surface.

     A much better and surer procedure is:

     2.0   Remove oxides with pumice
     2.1   Rinse well.
     2.2   Electroclean for 1.5 - 2.5 minutes, object as cathode, then reverse
           the polarity for a few seconds.
     2.3   Rinse 3- 5 times in running water.
     2.4   Dip in 1:10 sulfuric acid to neutralize the electrocleaning solution
           and activate surface.  (15 seconds or so).
     2.5   Rinse 3 - 5 times in running water.

     After cleaning, the metal should be placed in running or circulating water
     (preferably distilled) to avoid oxidation until it is plated or coloured. 
     One can of course plate or colour immediately after cleaning.  In all
     cleaning methods the piece must either be wired to suspend it in the
     solution or held with tweezers.  It must afterwards be very well rinsed to
     remove all traces of cleaning chemicals.  Do not touch the surface once it
     is free of grease.

     Sand blasting may be substituted for steps 1.0 and 2.0 above, a sand
     blasted surface is clean but can be damaged easily as well as being matte
     in appearance.

     Sample Electrocleaning solution:

     Sodium carbonate  50 grams Current density:  1-3A/dm2
     Trisodium phosphate  25 grams Polarity:  1 - 3 minutes           
     Cathodic (of work)  
     Sodium Hydroxide  25 grams 5 - 10 seconds Anodic
     Water    2000 ml
     Operating Temperature   60-70C

     PATINA ON STEEL:

     A method of patinating steel, copyright Lewton-Brain 1990

     Warning: This procedure should be undertaken with appropriate precautions;
     goggles, gloves, protective clothing, adequate ventilation.

     As part of a large scale patination project in which I patinated a steel
     roof surface 24 by 48 feet on both sides I performed some 40 experiments
     to find out how to patinate the steel which was a requirement for
     structural reasons.  In doing so I also experimented with paint, buying
     over $350.00 worth of spray paint, eventually finding one single color
     which for all intents and purposes is green patina.  When placed in
     recesses and the high areas are rubbed off it is indistinguishable from a
     cupric nitrate patina.  It is a car paint: GM 42, 1980 Chevrolet Medium
     Green.  While this is ideal for smaller surfaces my paint experiments did
     not produce the surface effects I required on the large scale work.  I
     reasoned that if I could plate the steel with copper and then convert the
     copper to patina in a fume not only would the job be easier but it would
     also be safer than dealing with solvents or corrosive patination
     techniques (such as a cupric nitrate patination) over large surface
     areas.  I was dealing with 4 x 8 foot sheet steel to be equally patinated
     on both sides simultaneously.  Other types of objects might be easier to
     deal with.  'Tents' of polyethylene plastic sheeting stapled to a
     framework of 'economy' studs were built.  The construction of such a tent
     requires that it be sealed (draped onto the floor from the frame and then
     weighted down).  The object inside is positioned on supports of some kind
     so that it is suspended off the floor in the air inside the tent.  Then
     pans of household ammonia are placed underneath the object.  The fumes
     attack copper or copper based alloy surfaces.  Under normal conditions one
     can activate a copper containing surface with a dilute salt solution to
     speed up the procedure and obtain a blue patination but this proved too
     corrosive for dealing with steel.  The final procedure chosen was as
     follows:

     1) The steel was cleaned well.  Sandblasting would be ideal but was
     impractical for the project.  Solvents were also out for safety reasons on
     such large surfaces without good ventilation.  We ended up using
     Fantastic cleaner.  Two scrubbings with Fantastic on large sponges and
     good rinsings in between and after were adequate most of the time.  The
     surfaces were then left damp with the rinse water.  Only the edges were
     handled to avoid contamination of the cleaned surfaces.  
     2) A contact plating solution for copper plating was prepared (see below)
     and this was applied to the steel using paint rollers (goggles/gloves!). 
     Brushes work also but the paint roller is a bit more gentle.  Plating
     occurs instantly.  Several passes may be made over the same area, without
     pressing hard, which can remove the delicate plating.  The surface was
     then rinsed very well.  If areas of the plating lifted grease residues
     were the cause and a further local Fantastic sponging and good rinsing
     sufficed to allow plating to take place.  After final rinsing the steel
     (held by the edges) was taken to the tent.  One moves fast to retain the
     surface moisture.
     3) The steel was then placed in the tent and pans of ammonia enclosed
     under it.  The tent was sealed.  The centers of the thin sheet sagged
     causing pooling, therefore we built a wooden support with a single nail
     pointing upwards to support the sheet.  More stable objects would not need
     support, though pooling may be factor to consider depending upon the
     surface relief.  The time required to convert the copper plating was
     optimal at about 1-1 and a half hours.
     4) The steel was removed and gently rinsed as scrubbing or hard spraying
     can remove the delicate patina surface.  It will be a mixture of blues,
     greens and hints of brownish red where pooling has occurred and the
     surface dried.  In my case I chose to re-introduce pink spatter marks to
     the surface by spattering droplets of the contact plating solution onto
     the patina surface where they instantly went pinkish-brown.  The steel was
     then dried with fans and immediately sealed using clear automobile enamel
     paint.  I then went back with stencils and gold spray paint to further
     modify the surface.
     The steps in the procedure are then: Clean, rinse,plate, rinse, fume,
     rinse, dry and seal.

     The conversion process
     The copper on the surface is attacked by ammonia liquid, not as much by
     the fume which has a different chemical composition than the liquid.  The
     water dampened surface slowly takes in ammonia fumes where they are
     converted to ammonia liquid in solution so that they can attack the
     copper.  The purpose of the pans of ammonia below the object is to provide
     a constant vapor pressure which replenishes the ammonia on the surface at
     a constant rate as it is used up in converting the copper to patina.  This
     system therefore ensures better overall constant dilution control than
     beginning with ammonia on the surface.

     Control Factors:
     Resists:  Resists may be used to prevent plating or to prevent the plating
     from being converted to patina by the fumes.  Resists to plating may be a
     greasy material (litho-crayon, oil) or thinned rubber cement.  Other
     resists require too much cleaning time and may need solvents for removal. 
     Resists to patination may be a protective spray through stencils (Pam) or
     thinned rubber cement.  Pattern control through resists is easy.
     Time:  Time is a factor in all fumings.  Experiment with various times on
     sample pieces to have a palette of process marks (colors, tones, effects)
     to choose from.
     Pooling:  Where pooling occurs variations in color will result.  Pooling
     can be encouraged and controlled by local application of greases before or
     during patination and by the position and shape of the object.  Various
     liquid thicknesses cause surface variations.
     Sealers:  Sealers will each have a characteristic effect on the surface. 
     I recommend making a palette of various sealing options over a patinated
     surface.  Examples of sealers include waxes, oils, lacquers, transparent
     acrylics, enamels, varnishes and so on.  They often have a tendency to
     darken the colors on the surface.  I prefer clear auto enamel or Spray-Lac
     number 1473 professional Finish Clear Dead Flat lacquer.  It is available
     from Star Chemical based in Hinsdale Illinois, Deerfield Beach, Florida
     and Dallas Texas.  It is an industrial quality spray and requires good
     ventilation.  It is very unobtrusive on a surface.  With any spray the
     surface chosen can be glossy, like paint (in which case why not use
     paint?) or shortly after spraying can be matted down with a cloth pad for
     better surface control.
     Other Chemicals:  I mentioned dilute salt solutions earlier.  Many
     chemicals will modify surfaces.  (Remember never to mix bleach and
     ammonia).  Experimentation and sample making will offer the user control
     choices.  Suggestions for initial investigations include salt, vinegar,
     baking soda and local heating.  There are a number of patination books
     available including one I sell on patinas for small studios.

     Contact Plating Solution Recipe
     All safety warnings apply.  Always add Acid to Water!!  Goggles/Gloves!

     250 grams copper sulfate (CuSO4)  Technical grade chemicals for this
     solution is fine.
     42 cc sulfuric acid 
     Distilled water to the 1000 ml level.

     Put about 800cc water into plastic or glass container after marking
     the 1000cc level on it.  Add the copper sulfate and stir to dissolve. 
     Slowly  pour a thin stream of acid into the swirling water.  Heat is
     evolved-be aware of this.  Rinse the acid container with distilled water
     and top up the mixture with it to the 1000 ml level.  This solution can
     also be used as an electroforming solution for growing copper.  Remember,
     acids are dangerous. A dust mask is suggested around chemicals.  Work
     cleanly.  Copper salts are toxic and irritant and should be handled with
     care.  Dispose of properly.


     BOOKS:

     Ron Young's books are very good for larger scale work.  His Contemporary
     Patination makes up for the poor safety attitude in the Methods for Modern
     Sculptors book.  The former is a working, useful studio guide to
     patination unlike the monumental Colouring, Bronzing and Patination of
     Metals put out in 1983 by Hughes and Rowe.


     Author                        Title          
     Ronald Young, Robert Fennell  Methods for Modern Sculptors
     Ronald Young                  Contemporary Patination

     Source:  Ronald Young
              Sculpt-Nouveau
              21 Redwood Drive
              San Rafael, California,
              94901, USA

     If ordering books through the mail New World Books is to be recommended. 
     They will obtain for one any book in print in North America for 10-30% off
     the list price, including Jewelry Concepts and Technology by Untracht for
     about $70.00.  Their address is:

     Source:  New World Books
              2 Cains Road, PO Box 89
              Suffern, New York, 10901, USA 

     Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop, goldsmithing tricks book by  Charles
     Lewton-Brain. Also 'Patinas for Small Studios" 15.50 plus 3.00 shipping.

     Source: Brain Press, Box 1624, Ste M, Calgary, Alberta, T2P 1N3, Canada
     (403) 263-3955, fax: (403) 283-9053, Email to brainnet@cadvision.com
     (offers 10% discount to internet users)

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------
     [end of text by Charles Lewton-Brain]

     References:
        _Henley's_Formulas_For_Home_and_Workshop_
        Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox, M.E.
        Avenel Books, New York (C) 1979
        Originally published as _Henley's_Twentieth_
        Century_Formulas_Recipes_and_Processes_,
        1907; Revised Edition 1927.

        METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS, Ronald Young and Robert Fennell
        ISBN 0-9603744-0-X [available from Lindsay, catalog number 1257,
        for $16.95 US]

        _Contemporary Patination_, by Ronald Young.  Newer than METHODS FOR
        MODERN SCULPTORS, with a better attitude towards safety.

        _The Coloring, Bronzing and Patinization of Metals_
        by Richard Hughes and Michael Rowe, published by Crafts Council,
        1982, U.K.(ISBN 0 903798 60 3)

        _The Art of Patinas_ by Michael Edge, Artesia Press,
        PO Box 21, Springfield, Oregon 97477
        (503) 746-0094
        $24.95 including shipping

        _Finishing Handbook and Directory_
        (this may be the same book as below)

        -Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory_
         Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc
         One University Plaza
         Hackensack, NJ 07601

        _Protective and Decorative Coatings for Metals_
        H. Silman, et. al.
        Finishing Publications, LTD., 1978 (ISBN 0 904477-03-7)

        _Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop_, goldsmithing tricks book
        by Charles Lewton-Brain.

        _Patinas for Small Studios_, by Charles Lewton-Brain.

     Suppliers: (see last part of FAQ for addresses and phone numbers)
        Bryant Laboratory (chemicals, recipes)
        Craft Books
        Merritt's Antiques
        Jax Chemical
        Johnson Atelier Sculpture/Casting Supplies
        Lindsay Publications (METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS)
        River Gems and Findings (formerly Rio Grande)
        Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
        Brain Press
        New World Books
        stained-glass, and/or woodworking suppliers


41.  Removing Broken Taps

     No matter how careful you are, some day you'll break a tap and wonder
     how to rescue your workpiece.  There are several solutions that have
     come up in the past.

     a.  One way is Electric Discharge Machining, discussed elsewhere.
         If you have an EDM system, you're in luck.  Alternatively try
         to find a machine shop in your area that has one and will do this
         sort of work.  The basic idea is to spark erode away most of the tap
         (if small) or at least one part of it, so the rest can be removed
         by just picking out the remaining pieces.

     b.  There are commercial tap removers that have fingers which slip
         between the flutes, so you can grip the tap and remove it.  This
         may not work well on small taps, and you have to buy the remover.
         It may be possible to build one but it might not work as well.

     c.  If the workpiece is non-ferrous (and has no other ferrous pieces
         attached or embedded), you can mix up a saturated solution of
         aluminum Sulfate at 120 degrees F, and soak the workpiece in it.
         This should dissolve the tap in a few hours (or a few days at
         room temperature).  A plastic tray such as Tupperware is best.

     d.  Another person suggested nitric acid, if the workpiece is aluminum.
         Test it on chips to be sure it won't eat the workpiece.  If the hole
         is blind, you may need to force some circulation by pouring out the
         "spent" acid and re-immersing from time to time.  Note this is
         dangerous, nitric acid is nasty stuff; this might be best done
         outdoors to avoid damage to tools from fumes.

     d.  If size permits, grind out part of the tap with a Dremel tool
         or equivalent, with a suitable grinding bit.

     e.  In some cases, you can try to simply drill out the tap.  This will
         depend on how hard the tap is (mainly the core), and how good a
         drill you have.  It may be difficult to get a good start if the
         break is irregular or slanted.  You may end up breaking the drill.

     f.  Throw away the work piece and start over.

     g.  Of course the easiest solution is to not break the tap in the
         first place.  Use proper technique, lubrication, etcetera.
         Keeping them sharp has been suggested; Darex makes a tap sharpener,
         though it may be expensive for the home shop machinist.

42.  Machining plastic

     OK, this is a metalworking newsgroup, but the question does come up
     from time to time, and Jim Harvey did a good job of summarizing past
     messages and experience.  Please contact Jim, jim@hre.com, if you have
     questions/comments.

     These instructions are appropriate for the following materials;
        Nylon 101 and other type 6/6 Nylons
        Monocast (r) and other type 6 nylons
        Nylatron (r) GS,GSM,NSB,and NSM Nylons
        Acetal
        Delrin
        Delrin AF (Tm dupont)
        Q200.5 (Crosslinked Polystyrene)

     Drilling:
     ---------
     More heat is generated in drilling than in any other machining
     operation, causing difficulties not usually associated with
     fabricating metals. Extra care must be taken to prevent problems such
     as gumming, melted surfaces, crazing, and cracks around the drill
     hole.
     A low helix angle (14 - 17 degrees) with polished flutes is the
     recommended tool for drilling industrial thermoplastics. This type of
     drill with a large flute area permits a free flow of chips and
     minimizes the chance of overheating and gumming. High speed twist
     drills with standard spiral flutes (30 deg helix) may also be used
     successfully.
     Chip ejection is an important consideration in drilling. If the chips
     are not removed from the flutes as quickly as possible, friction will
     develop and result in poor finish, dimensional changes and
     discoloration.

     Drill Design:
     Drills should be designed with the proper point angle and lip
     clearance (90 - 118 deg / 9 15 deg respectively) for heavy wall or
     thick sections. Angles of 115 - 130 should be used for thin sections
     or thin wall pieces.
     An asymmetrical cutting edge is desirable in both thin and heavy
     section work.

     Drill speed:

     The following chart lists the recommended speeds for drilling
     in plastics

       Drill size       RPM

       #60 - 33         5000
       #32 - 17         3000
       #16 - 1          2500
       1/16             5000
       1/8              3000
       3/16             2500
       1/4              1700
       5/16             1700
       3/8              1300
       7/16             1000
       1/2              1000
       A thru D         2500
       E thru M         1700
       N thru Z         1300

     Feeds should be .004" - .015" per rev. for Nylon 101,NSB,GS,GSM,MC901,
     and Acetal although rake angles and helix angles will differ slightly
     Lip relief should be 9 - 16deg for the nylons (the higher numbers for
     larger diameter drills)and 10 - 25 degrees for Acetal

     Q200.5 Acrylic should feed .004"-.010" with a 15deg lip relief angle.

     Drilling Large Diameter holes in the lathe
     ------------------------------------------
     A slow spiral (low helix angle) drill or a general purpose drill
     ground to a point angle of 118 deg, with a lip clearance angle of 9 -
     15 deg. is recommended.  In either case, the lip rake should be ground
     off (dubbed) and the web thinned.

     Spade drills have been used successfully in drilling large diameter
     holes in these materials.  They seem to work best in increments of 1"
     to enlarge the hole from pilot to finished size.

     In order to prevent excess stress in the thermoplastic material, a
     trueing cut is recommended on the OD of the material on the chucking
     end.  Using standard chuck jaws that have been radiused to the contour
     of the OD, or a step collet for maximum contact on the holding
     surface.  Chuck the rod as lightly as possible on the trued end,
     applying only enough pressure to the piece to prevent slippage.  It is
     imperative that a sufficient supply of cutting fluid is directed to
     the drill tip as it is advanced into the part.

     Start with a pilot hole (maximum diameter 1/2") at a speed of 600 -
     1000 rpm using a positive feed of approximately .005" per rev.  If at
     all possible, do NOT feed by hand due to the tendency of the drill to
     grab causing stress cracks.  If you must feed by hand, grind (dub)
     the cutting edge (rake angle) of the drill slightly to reduce this
     tendency.

     If the pilot hole must be drilled by hand, reduce the chisel edge of
     the drill by thinning the web.  A secondary drilling at a speed of 400
     -500 rpm is required to expand the hole to 1" diameter.

     Finally, bore the ID to the desired diameter using a single point
     boring tool.  Using the following information:

       Light cuts of 1/16" to 1/8"
       Light feeds of .003" - .007" per revolution
       Depending on the rigidity of the machine, cuts as heavy as 3/8" and
       feeds of .015" per revolution can be achieved.
       0 - 5deg NEGATIVE rake is preferred to balance cutting pressures.

     Important!
     Sharp Tools with large clearances are IMPERATIVE!
     HSS tools can be used for very short runs ONLY if the edges are kept
     extremely sharp. 
     For long runs, or production work, Diamond tipped or Tungsten carbide
     tools honed with a fine 400 - 600 grit diamond wheel are preferred.
     Carbide tools should ALWAYS be used in turning the following
     materials:

       Nylatron GS, GSM, NSB, NSM, and MC 901 at speeds greater than 600 fpm.


     Vertical Milling
     ----------------

     Vertical milling , using face mills, end mills, shell mills, and fly
     cutters is the most common method of milling thermoplastics.

     Extremely high spindle speeds and table speeds are possible with the
     use of adequate holding fixtures, but because of the flexibility
     inherent to the material itself, extreme care is needed with regard
     to the methods of holding and/or clamping, in order to reduce the
     possibility of deformation.

     When milling parts with a thin cross section, the entire part should
     be encased in the fixture, leaving only the actual surface to be
     machined exposed.  (Just enough opening for the cutter to enter).
     This prevents the part from deflecting away from the cutter.  A
     staggered tooth roughing end mill works best for this method on a
     vertical mill.

     Cutters should be kept extremely sharp at all times to eliminate the
     tendency of the material to produce burrs on the milled edge.  Cutters
     should be used ONLY for thermoplastic and never have been used on
     steel or other ferrous or non ferrous material.

     When using a shell mill, it is wise to tilt the head slightly to have
     just the periphery of the cutter contact the work.  This will avoid
     cutter drag marks on the workpiece.  The use of a square cornered
     cutter is to be preferred as well (over those with a chamfered
     corner) as fewer burrs will be developed over the course of the cut.

     If horizontal milling is required, staggered tooth side milling
     cutters will produce a more accurate clean slot or groove, with
     minimum difficulty.  Slab milling cutters amy also be used, however,
     they require greater care to produce similar quality finishes. 

     Chatter marks may develop and chips may accumulate in front of the
     cutter and get pulled into the cutting surface.  Degradation of the
     surface can result in this case.  Therefore when using slab milling
     cutters a slower spindle speed is advised.

     Burrs at the end of a run-out can be eliminated when a piece of
     slightly harder material (brass or aluminum for example) is placed at
     the end of the work where the run-out will occur.  The cutter then can
     travel past the work piece and into the harder material.  If burrs do
     occur they can be removed with a razor knife as a second operation.

     Coolant is not normally necessary in milling, although we use a
     synthetic flood coolant when dimensional tolerance is required.  Mist
     systems may also be used successfully, as well as mist/air systems.
     The use of air also helps to blow chips away from the cut area
     minimizing the possibility of chips binding between the cutter and the
     work.

     I hope this will be of some help to those who are working with these
     and other plastics. We do a lot of work with these materials and have
     found the above to work quite well for our purposes.


From jay@ftp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!lard.ftp.com!seashore.ftp.com!jay
From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 14:31:53
Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <960701143153@seashore.ftp.com>
References: <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com> <4r4deo$eaq@crl14.crl.com>
Reply-To: jay@ftp.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: seashore.ftp.com
NNTP-Software: PC/TCP NNTP



Ah..the old terminology problem...Brit=Silver Steel, NorAm=Drill Rod




When I first started reading Model Engineer and looking for Silver Steel,
I called around to many hardware and steel suppliers...got "contact a
jewelry supply house".      :-(




From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news.dgsys.com!en.com!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 10 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160310.23913@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:10 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 10
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:10 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 699

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 10 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

99.  Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers.

     Note also that a potential source of manufacturers/suppliers is the
     Thomas Register, found in most public libraries, or now on-line:

         http://www.thomasregister.com/


 --  Special entry:  Not a company or anything, but for more info on
     crafts supplies, send e-mail to info@crafts-council.pe.ca
     and put "WANTED:" at the beginning of the subject line.  This is
     a non-profit service of PEI Crafts Council in Charlottetown,
     Price Edward Island, Canada.  They maintain a list of crafts
     suppliers and can answer questions like "give me a list of ceramics
     suppliers East of the Mississippi" or "who sells ConeArt kilns?"
     (per a post 9-Nov-1993)

   -  ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
      Box 14519
      Minneapolis, MN 55414
      (800) 473-7650, (612) 641-1797, (612) 641-8681 (FAX)
      e-mail ahha@gdic.com

      In the UK, distributed by Eagland Machine Tool, 01420-23830, fax 23804.

      CNC conversion kits for large and small machines.  Free catalog.

   -  Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Company
      Fullerton, CA
      (800) 824-1930

      400-page catalog costs $5, but they pay $4.10 to mail it to you
      (at 1994 postage rates).  Airplane kits (real ones), as well as
      parts and raw material such as aluminum stock, composites, epoxies,
      foam, and spruce.  This is not as complete or as universal as
      McMaster-Carr, but it has a number of things you won't find elsewhere.

   -  Alley Supply Company
      P.O. Box 848
      Gardnerville, NV 89410
      (702) 782-3800

      Deals in Jet lathes and accessories.

   -  Allied Devices Corporation
      2365 Milburn Ave
      P.O. Box 502
      Baldwin, New York 11510
      (516) 223-9100, (516) 223-9172 (FAX)

      "Standard Precision Mechanical Components" such as small gears.
      Reputedly not cheap, but Small Parts Inc isn't either.

   -  American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWI)
      P.O. Box 11011
      Cincinnati, OH 45211
      (513) 661-3838, (513) 661-3131 (FAX)

      Membership is around $45 or so per year.  They have an excellent
      magazine, Horological Times.  Their orientation is more towards
      watch/clock repair.  They offer many courses along those lines.
      The "Project Extended" courses are given in Cincinnati, but they
      have many other courses (around 5 days) given around the country.
      They have at least 100 videotapes on various aspects of lathe work
      and clock repair.

   -  Jim Anderson
      1642 Hillridge
      Ann Arbor MI 48103

      There were a few Craftsman lathes that were apparently *not* made by
      Clausing or their predecessors, called AA Products.  Jim has a
      catalog of sorts; send an 8 1/2 x 11 self-addressed-stamped-envelope
      with 2 stamps.   Include the model number in the request and he will
      send a copy of the manual, a list of customers, and a list of parts
      sources.

   -  ARE, Inc.
      Box 8
      Greensboro Bend, VT 05842
      (800)736-4273, (802)533-7007, (802)533-7008 fax

      Tools for jewelry-making, perhaps more.  Catalog is $4.

   -  Argus Books
      P.O. Box 35 Wolsey House
      Wolsey Road, Hemel Hempstead
      Herts HP2 4SS England
      Telephone: Hemel Hempstead (0442)66551

      Former publishers of Model Engineer, in England.  ME is now published
      by a sister company, Nexus.  However, Argus still has interesting books
      that are described elsewhere in this FAQ, and may still be a source
      for back issues of ME.

      The US distributor for some of the Argus/Nexus publications is:
            Wise Owl Worldwide Services
            4314 West 238th Street
            Torrance, CA 90505-4509
            (310) 375-6258, (310) 375-0548 (FAX)
 
   -  Armstrong Tool & Supply Co, Inc.
      31747 W Eight Mile
      Livonia, MI 48152
      (800) 446-9694

      Full range of hand tools & Sherline Products. Catalog $2.00

   -  Bailey Craftsman Supply
      P.O. Box 276
      Fulton, MO 65251-0276
      (314) 642-5998

      Shop videos, Books, EMCO Maier & Sherline Products

   -  W.M. Berg, Inc.
      499 Ocean Avenue
      East Rockaway, NY 11518
      (516) 596-1700, (516) 599-3274 (FAX), (516) 599-5010 customer service

      Very similar to Stock Drive Products (q.v.).  Separate catalogs for
      metric vs. english parts.  They undoubtedly have a few items that
      Stock Drive does not carry, and vice-versa.

   -  Blades & Stuff
      1019 E. Palmer Ave.
      Glendale, CA 91205 

      Catalog $5

   -  Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc.
      PO Box 536
      2806 Putnam Avenue
      Hurricane, WV  25516
      800-872-6500, (304) 562-3538 in WV, (304) 562-5311 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $200
      M,W,F 9-5 EST, Tu,Th 9-9 EST

      Lathes, milling machines, presses, brakes, from puny to industrial.
      Accessories and parts for popular machines from Myford, South Bend,
      Atlas, Sherline, Emco-Maier, etc.
      Hand tools and books of interest to hobbyists and professionals.
      Woodworking power tools
      Steel, brass, aluminum, tool steel in small quantities.

      110 page free catalog

   -  J. C. Boegeman
      1464 S. Warner Dr.
      Apache Junction, AZ  85220
      (602) 982-8436

      Discontinued parts for Atlas, Craftsman, Clausing lathes.
      Quadrants, reverse gear boxes, lead screws, half-nuts,
      spindles, steady rests, and so on.  No catalog, so call.

   -  Borel and Frei
      712 S. Olive St., Suite 318
      Los Angeles, CA 90014
      (800)654-9591 (national), (800)252-9392 (CA), (213)689-7007,
      (213)488-0485 fax

      They also have a Kansas City office:

      Jules Tools (Jules Borel & Co.)
      1110 Grand Ave.
      Kansas City, MO 64106
      (800)776-6858 orders, (800)776-6865 customer service, (816)421-6110,
      (800)776-6862 fax

      Jewelers' tools: main 172-page catalog "T" is color, slick paper,
      no prices (separate price list is enclosed).  Also catalog "J" for
      jewelry, "H" for horological (watchmaking) supplies, and "F" of
      jewelry findings.  Specialty tool catalog "T<year>S" is 50 pages
      B&W and does have prices.

   -  Boston Gear
      14 Hayward St.
      Quincy Ma. 02171
      (617) 328-3300

      They have nearly any gear iminaginable,  IN STOCK.  Their prices
      are lower than you might imagine, and delivery is good.

   -  Bourget Bros.
      Lapidary and Jeweler's Supplies
      1636 11th St.
      Santa Monica, CA 90404
      (800)828-3024

   -  Brownells
      Route 2 Box 1
      200 South Front Street
      Montezuma, Iowa, 50171
      (515) 623-5401, (515) 623-3896 (FAX)

      Brownells is a fine firm that specializes in gunsmithing, though
      a lot of their merchandise is great for general-purpose metalworking,
      such as steel, brass, and nickel silver.
      Catalog is $4.00, refundable with first order of $40 or more
      (but if you can convince them you are a dealer, then it is free).
      They have lower prices for gun dealers, "enciphered" in the catalog
      in a manner similar to the following --
         Item: Foo Bar Grips    an9xx20dd      Price: $19.95
      means list price is $19.95, dealer price is $9.20.  However, in
      recent catalogs they have changed the coding on some items.
      While some people have apparently convinced them they are a dealer,
      the usual requirement seems to be an FFL (Federal Firearms License)
      before they sell for the dealer price.

   -  Bryant Laboratory
      1101 Fifth St.
      Berkeley, CA 94710
      (510) 526-3141, (800) 367-3141

      They sell chemicals used in patination, and have recipes as well.

   -  Camden Miniature Steam Services
      Barrow Farm
      Rode
      Bath BA3 6PS
      U.K.
      Tel: (44) 01373 850151
      Fax: (44) 01373 850516   (drop the first zero if outside the UK)

      Have a 56-page list of their books and videos (British PAL 625/50hz)
      available at no cost.  Engineering books and videos; rail, road and
      sea transportation from the USA, UK and France; mining, wireless and
      electrical subjects etc.

   -  Campbell Tools, Inc.
      2100-H Selma Rd.
      Springfield, OH 45505
      (513) 322-8562

      A machine supplier attuned to the hobbyist metalworker.  They carry
      Sherline, Emco, Jet, and other machines.  Also books, hardware,
      raw materials, etc.  Highly recommended by one net reader.  Catalog
      is $1

   -  Cardinal Engineering Inc
      RR #1, Box 163
      Cameron, IL 61423
      (309) 342-7474, (309) 342-3182 (FAX)

      Supplier of various metals, but they also can supply CNC mills
      and/or kits to convert existing milling machines.  Also some CNC
      lathe work.  Several articles in recent years in HSM regarding
      CNC conversions were written by the folks at Cardinal.  Catalog
      is $2.  Also some books, and plans from a company called Wood-Met.

   -  Castings
      PO Box 915001
      Longwood, FL 32791
      (407) 869-6565

      Equipment and materials sized for chess pieces, etc., made in pewter.
      Probably other, related stuff as well.

   -  Caswell Electroplating in Miniature
      (315) 597-5140

      Reportedly has all kinds of small to medium plating supplies and is
      very helpful.

   -  Centaur Forge Ltd.
      P.O. Box 340
      117 N. Spring Street
      Burlington, WI  53105-0340
      (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX)

      Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all aspects of
      metalworking are covered.  A good, well-organized collection.
      They also publish a magazine, Anvil.

      Centaur Forge is the source for blacksmithing supplies from tongs to
      furnaces.  Also a source of horse shoeing supplies.

   -  Century Spring Corporation
      800-237-5225, (213) 749-3802 (FAX)

      A Los Angeles company, they sell a wide range of both extension and
      compression springs, and also some more specialized
      springs like disk springs and rubber-tube springs.  Their catalog is
      free and lists springs sorted by diameter, length, wire diameter,and
      material, and list number of coils, solid height, and calculated spring
      rate.

      The catalog does not include prices, but prices are reasonable, but
      there is a $25 minimum order.

   -  Clausing Industrial Inc.
      Service Center
      P.O. Box 877
      Goshen, Indiana 46527-0877
      (219) 533-0371, (219) 533-0403 (FAX)

      Long ago, Sears sold Craftsman lathes that are still popular.
      These were actually made by Atlas, which was later bought by
      Clausing.  Clausing apparently still has parts and manuals for
      the Craftsman/Atlas lathes, and will provide a free catalog.

   -  Coles Power Models, Inc
      P.O. Box 788
      839 E. Front Street
      Ventura, CA  93002
      (805) 643-7065

      Castings, books, supplies, accessories.  For trains,
      stationary steam, gasoline engines.  The catalog costs $4.

   -  T. E. Conklin Brass & Copper Co.
      345 Hudson St.
      NY. NY 10014
      800-225-5510

      They have every size of hex brass in 12' lengths from 1/8" to 7/16"
      by 1/32" increments, and then it goes up to 3" hex by 1/16" with some
      odd sizes thrown in such as 23/32.  They got it in round, square, flat,
      gauge, strip, dimension plate, wire, rectangular rod, pipe, round tube,
      square tube, rectangular tube, angle, channel.  They state that small
      orders are important.
 
      This is not only brass, but bronze, copper, monel, muntz, nickel silver,
      etc., in several alloys.  I would doubt they have every alloy in every
      size.  Ask for the Conklin Index.  For locals the phone is 212-691-5100.

      (however, it is reported that a minimum first order is $100, and
      subsequently $50)

   -  Condar Co.
      10500 Industrial Drive
      Garrettsville, OH 44231
      (216) 527-4343

      They sell a pyrometer (high-temp thermometer) for gas forges and such,
      Unit 9-85 which comes with a 6-foot 2200-degree probe for $60.  They
      also have a high temp probe (3000 degrees; Unit 14S4-1, $17).  Probably
      lots of other related items, but this came up in discussion on
      low-cost pyrometers around 3/25/93.

   -  Conquest Industries
      Santa Fe Springs, CA.
      (310) 906-1111, (310) 906-1112 (FAX)

      Apparently casting supplies.  They have a free video tape and info
      packet on casting metal in rubber molds.  The rubber can take heat up
      to 840F for zinc alloys.

   -  Cowell's Small Machine Tools Ltd
      The Manor Workshop
      Church Road
      Little Bentley
      Colchester
      Essex
      CO7 8SE
      UK
      tel +44 1206 251792

      Cowells sells two main products: a small lathe (88mm swing,
      200mm between centers) and a small milling machine (200mm by 50mm
      bed).  Also vertical blade jig-saws.  Somewhat similar to Sherlines,
      these are described as being a bit better in quality and considerably
      more powerful.  Cost is roughly double that of a Sherline.
      Their USA connection:

      Cowells USA
      Post Office Box 843
      Richmond, KY 40476-0843
      (606) 624-9269, (606) 625-1191 (FAX)

      There is also a book, "Cowells 90 Lathe" by A. Smith.

   -  Craft Books
      4 Maple Street
      Chester, CT 06412
      (203) 526-9887

      At the very least, books on patinizing such as The Coloring, Bronzing
      and Patinization of Metals.

   -  Cyberlabs: see US Cyberlabs

   -  Dalmar
      (941) 275-6540, (941) 275-1731 (FAX)
      http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html
      dalmar@peganet.com

      Manufacturer of electroplating equipment.

   -  Darex Corporation
      220 Hersey Street
      Box 277
      Ashland, OR  97520
      (503) 488-2224, (503) 488-2229 (FAX)
      http://www.darex.com

      Precision drill and end-mill sharpening equipment.  Some of their
      complete systems are very expensive and intended for large
      production shops (around $2000).  They also sell fixtures for use
      with existing grinders (about $250) and sharpeners for taps, reamers,
      and countersinks.

   -  Diamond Pacific Tool Corporation
      25647 West Mail Street
      Barstow, CA  92311-9702
      (800) 253-2954, (619) 255-1030

      A complete selection of diamond cutting bits, saws, powders and
      compounds.  Free catalog.

   -  Dillsburg Aeroplane Works
      (717) 432-4589

      Source for aluminum, steel, tubing, bar, sheets, etc.
      Advertises that they supply: machine shop, race car, airplane building,
      etc.  These people are nice and helpful.  They have shipped orders
      same day with no errors.

   -  Eastwood Company
      (800) 345-1178

      Metal fabrication equipment, welding supplies, etc.  Reportedly,
      the prices are rather high.

   -  EMCO Maier (Consumer Products Division)
      2757 Scioto Parkway
      Columbus, OH 43221-2134
      (800) 521-8289, (614) 771-5990 FAX

      Makers (importer?) of the Unimat and Unimat PC lathes, small mills,
      and such.  They will/do sell direct, you can get a discount (5-15%)
      by dealing with Campbell or Blue Ridge on a package.  Good customer
      service and parts department.

   -  Enco Manufacturing Co.
      13 stocking locations, main site in Chicago, IL (addresses not handy now)
      800-860-3400 (24 hr orders, automatically routes to closest location)
      800-860-3500 (fax, also auto routes)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $500, discount for pre-pay by check
      $25 minimum order
      Customer service & Chicago showroom M-F 7-midnight CST,
      Sa 8-4 CST, Su 9-4 CST

      Lathes, milling machines, etc, from small to large NC machines.
      Hand tools, cutting tools, storage cabinets, shop supplies
      Maker (not just distributer) of turret bed lathes.

      However, many net folks have reported that quality and service are
      between awful and terrible (this author included), and that Enco should
      be avoided.  This is not a unanimous opinion, but close.

      230 page catalog (as of 1994)

   -  Far West Materials
      405 Woodland Ave.
      Walla Walla, WA 99362
      (509) 522-0556, (509) 525-7326 (FAX)
      http://ns.bmi.net/farwest, e-mail farwest@bmi.net

      "Specializing in Foundry, Sculpture, & Molding materials"

   -  Gateway Clocks
      7936 Camberly Drive
      Powell, TN  37849

      Gateway Clocks is apparently a one-man business, in the person
      of W. R. Smith, author of several clockmaking books and one on
      clockmaking and model-making (see earlier section in the FAQ).
      Gateway also sells all of John Wilding's books, and John Wilding
      (in England) sells all of Smith's books, through a reciprocal
      agreement.

   -  General Factory Supplies Co., Inc.
      Cincinnati, Ohio
      Dayton, Ohio
      http://www.virtual-adventures.com/gfs/

      A stocking wholesale distributor of industrial
      supplies.  No experience with them.

   -  Gesswein
      255 Hancock Ave.
      Bridgeport, CT 06605
      (800)243-4466, (203)366-5400, (203)366-3953 fax
      e-mail: gessweinco@aol.com

      Jewelry-making tools, perhaps more.  On the 800 number, there is
      a voice mail system, and if you just want a catalog you have to
      wait for the last prompt when they let you speak for a longer period
      without being cut off.

   -  Glendo Corporation
      900 Overlander Road
      P.O. Box 1153
      Emporia, KS 66801
      (800) 835-3519, (316) 343-1084, (316) 343-9640 (FAX)

      Their Accu-Finish line of "advanced sharpening equipment"
      includes grinders and fixtures for lathe cutting bits and
      similar tools.  Also, most affordable for the home shop,
      the Grind-R-Table for use with existing grinders.  They often
      run ads in the magazines, or you can call for information.

   -  Grainger
      http://www.grainger.com
      feedback@grainger.com

      Wholesale supplier of industrial and commercial equipment and
      supplies, with branches in all 50 states of the USA, and Puerto
      Rico.  Their web site includes a "terms of access" page that had
      to be written by a team of lawyers working overtime!

   -  Grand Tool Supply Corp.
      U.S. Highway 46 & Huyler St.
      Teterboro, NJ 07608
      (800) 922-0512, (201) 288-7090 FAX

      "80,000 inch/metric cutting tools, measuring instruments & equipment
      for the machine shop."  $50 min/order, free catalog.

   -  Griegers
      Pasadena, CA
      (800) 423-4181

      Lost wax casting supplies for jewelry making.  Silver solder and
      flux, gold solder, nickel silver, etc.  Free catalog on request.
      Apparently not what you'd call low prices, but they do have a good
      selection.

   -  Grizzly Imports, Inc.

      West of Mississippi:
      P.O. Box 2069
      Bellingham, WA 98227
      (800) 541-5537, (800) 225-0021 (FAX)

      East of Mississippi:
      2406 Reach Road
      Williamsport, PA 17701
      (800) 523-4777, (800) 438-5901 (FAX)

      Imports a wide range of power tools and accessories.  Metal lathes,
      milling machines, as well as lots of woodworking tools.  They also
      sell a belt sander called the "Knife Belt Sander/Buffer."  Among
      the importers of Taiwan-made tools, Grizzly seems to rank fairly
      well compared with Enco or Harbor Freight, though some consider Jet
      to be a bit better (at higher cost).

   -  H & H Foundry Machine Company 
      PO Box 605
      Manor, PA   15665
      (412) 863-3251

      They will accept small one-off cast iron jobs (and probably other
      work as well, just don't know their full scope).  They seem to do good
      work and are reasonably priced, according to D. E. Johnson who wrote
      an article in HSM about building a hefty milling machine attachment
      for a lathe.  The pattern for that project is "on file" with them
      and can be requested.

   -  Harbor Freight Tools
      3491 Mission Oaks Blvd.
      Camarillo, CA  93011-6010
      800 423 2567

      They mostly sell cheap tools.  Usually cheap = inexpensive, sometimes
      cheap = junky.  All (or most all) imported.  They are best for items
      which have a lot of metal in them and for which fine/precision is not
      your main objective.  They have really great buys on anvils, cold chisel
      sets, screwdriver sets, tinsnips, crowbars, ... and free shipping (other
      than a $2.95 handling fee) for orders over $50.

   -  Neil Hemingway
      30 Links View
      Half Acre
      Rochdale
      Lancashire OL11 4DD
      England
      +44 01706 45404
      http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/hemingway/index.html

      Neil has many lathe accessories and kits, many for Myford lathes, and
      George Thomas kits from Model Engineering.  You might enclose a couple
      of international reply coupons when asking him for a catalog.

   -  M. B. Herman
      9308 N.W. 60th Street
      Tamarac, FL  33321
      (305) 722-0061

      Mentioned as another source of parts for Craftsman/Atlas lathes.

   -  High Quality Tools, Inc.
      1327 E. 289th St.
      Wickliffe, OH  44092
      (216) 944-0144, (216) 585-2265 (FAX)

      Replacement parts for Bridgeport milling machines.  Reputedly the
      quality is excellent.  They have a catalog with exploded views
      of all assemblies.  Cheaper than Bridgeport.  See also Lee's and
      J.R. Machine.

   -  Hobby Hangar
      1862 Petersburg Road
      P.O. Box 417
      Hebron, Kentucky 41048
      (606) 334-4331, (606) 334-4333 (FAX)
      http://www.cforc.com/hangar/

      "Serving All Your Hobby Needs."  Also "The exclusive United States
      importer of Minicraft Precision Power Tools."

   -  Industrial Pipe and Steel Co.
      9936 E. Rush Street
      South El Monte, CA  91733
      800-423-4981, 818-443-9467, 818-579-4602 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      M-F 7:30-4:30 PST, Sa 7:30-1 PST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, lathes, milling machines, you
      name it.  Shop supplies, tool and die maker supplies, you name it.
      Metal of all sorts, you name it.  New and used press die sets.
      Surplus rounds and plates.  Buy by the foot, buy by the pound.
      Most of their metal stock is not listed in the catalog(s).
      Call and ask what they've got.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbyists.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers,
      Starrett, Mitutoyo, etc.  Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals,
      garbage-at-any-price import.

      Small catalog several times a year, 200 page catalog once or
      twice a year, and a 750 page full-line catalog once every five
      years.  They came out with a full-line catalog in 92.  Get one if
      you can.

   -  ISCAR
      http://www.iscar.com

      ISCAR manufactures metal cutting tools for industry.  "Iscar is a
      full-source supplier producing a complete range of innovative turning,
      milling and drilling tool lines. Its cutting inserts are composed of
      advanced, proprietary cutting materials including coated and uncoated
      carbides, cermets, silicon nitrides, sub-micron compositions, and CVD
      and PVD (chemical and physical vapor deposition) layers."

      I don't believe ISCAR sells retail, but instead are carried by
      distributors such as MSC and others (see web pages).

   -  Jax Chemical
      (718) 347-0057

      Patina solutions and chemicals. Available from some jewelry supply
      houses.

   -  Jet Equipment & Tools
      http://www.wolfenet.com/~jet/
      jet@wolfenet.com

      Jet sells lathes, milling machines, etcetera.  Usually they do not
      sell directly to a customer, preferring to go through distributors
      such as Alley Supply, Campbell Tools, and others.  Their home page
      includes a list of distributors.  The general consensus suggests Jet
      is somewhat higher in quality and price than Grizzley's products.

   -  Johnson Atelier Sculpture/Casting Supplies
      50 Princeton-Hightstown Road
      Suite L
      Princeton Junction, NJ 08550
      (800) 732-7203 (orders or technical assistance), (609) 936-7206 (FAX)
       
      Aimed at the metalcaster and sculptor.  Clays, modeling tools,
      shellcasting kits, plasters, various kits for making life casts, waxes,
      pyrometers, sandcasting/foundry tools, foundry metal ingots/plate/rod
      (SiBronze, 85-5-5-5, aluminum, copper), patina solutions and raw
      chemicals to make your own, safety equipment, etc.  Looks like they
      target the school foundry and small art studio market.

   -  Lee's Machinery
      4089 N. Ridge Road
      Perry OH 44081
      (216) 259-2222

      Bridgeport and South Bend parts, new and used.  The owner, Lee Zinn,
      does used machinery rebuilding of all kinds and has many new and
      used parts and accessories (chucks etc.).  Will also make parts if
      unavailable, or parts that are better than original if needed
      (e.g. South Bend back gears like to break).  See also High Quality Tools
      and J.R. Machine.

(continued in next part)


From jay@ftp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jay@news.ftp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 14:51:50
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In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>Can these spots ever be cleaned?
----------------------------------00000---------------------------------
Buy a new shirt, identical to the one oil spotted.  Then wear this one
in the shop.  Everybody happy now?   :-)



From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 0 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160248.23903@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:48 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 0: Introduction to this month's FAQ
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:49 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 19

I am about to post the latest revision to the FAQ.

June 4, 1996.

Let me know if this needs to get split into more parts, e.g. due
to news system limitations on item size.

Notable changes:

  More stuff in the anodizing section.

  New vendors: Pyramid (foundry supplies), Titanium Industries,
  Traplet Publications (turbine books).

Keep the suggestions coming in!


Jim Kirkpatrick
jimkirk@uwyo.edu


From osan@netlabs.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 16:31:52 -0400
Organization: Eventide Forge
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <31D835B8.F55@netlabs.net>
References: <8C1E42D.02290045CF.uuout@corpsoft.com> <quartlowDsruyv.FG2@netcom.com> <xlch58DssHo6.6qn@netcom.com> <31be1dc4.699494418@news.demon.co.uk> <4ppnd5$rlc@nyx.cs.du.edu> <4psni4$okm@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <4q40rv$5kv@ratty.wolfe.net> <4q4nf8$1c6@newsreader.wustl.edu> <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com> <31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <31c81c44.996490324@news.islandnet.com> <4qm9oo$8bj@crcnis3.unl.edu> <4r27rv$q7c@goodnews.voicenet.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30645 sci.engr.chem:16176

Tom Enterline wrote:
> 
> wdailey@herbie.unl.edu (WILLIAM DAILEY) wrote:
> 

> >: 2) Oxygen by itself is not pure evil despite what people say. Yes, it
> >: will accelerate a fire but pure O2 at atmospheric pressure seems
> >: pretty harmless by itself unless you combine it with fire.
> >: 3) It never hurts to be extra careful when dealing with flammables.

> >     I must take exception to #2.  Pure oxygen at atmospheric pressure
> >is essentially pure evil.  I have worked as an oxygen clean worker for
> >several years...repairing oxygen generation (cryogenic &
> >electrolytic), storage and distribution systems.  While in training i
> >saw a film portraying a man that
> >stepped into a pan of oxygen vapor (at atmospheric pressure) and only
> >spots of blood were left.  

	Yes, pure O2 is very dangerous stuff and should not be treated
	casually.  Why do you think guages read "Use no oil"?  If you
	wanna quick but ugly ride to the moon, oil up yer regulator
	guages.  Adios amigo.

	Be careful, and if you don't *really* know the true story 
	regarding ANY potential safety issue, begin my educating
	yourself in facts first, if possible, before starting your
	work.  If not, at least do yourself (and others) the decency
	of erring on the safe side.  Death or mutilation can jump
	on you from the most unexpected sources, and it never seems
	like it will touch you until one day it reaches out and *does*.

	-Andy V.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 2 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160252.23905@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:52 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 2
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:53 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 680

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 2 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

4.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?

    Who makes good cars?  This is almost purely a personal preference,
    though in general the imported machines (Grizzly, Jet, Enco) seem
    to rate lower than US-built machines (South Bend, Bridgeport).  However,
    the imports are usually MUCH less expensive, offsetting some of the
    quality issues for home shops.  It has also been reported that South
    Bend has been going "downhill" lately.

    There is some indication that Grizzly equipment is slightly better
    than other "Taiwanese" machines such as Enco, and that Jet is slightly
    better than Grizzly.  Prices go up with quality.

    One of the main complaints about Taiwanese machinery is the lack of
    replacement parts and service.  Grizzly claims that they keep a supply
    of parts on hand for all their machines.  The same factories appear to
    turn out Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and the "no-name" machinery.  A few years
    ago Fine Woodworking magazine published an article on this subject.

    Unimats are sometimes considered "toys" rather than real machines,
    though they may do just what you want if you don't push them hard.
    Some Unimat owners are quite pleased, in fact (hi Reg!).
    The Unimat PC may be a nice small CNC lathe; any experiences?

    Unimat, Sherline, and Taig are "micro lathes" in that the swing over the
    bed is less than 5 inches, and the bed is about a foot long.  Sherline
    and Taig are made in the US, and Unimat is made in Austria (and hence
    uses metric threads, e.g. in the spindle thread, which may be a pain
    to US buyers).  Sherline and Taig both use 3/4 inch x 16 threads in the
    spindle and can thus interchange accessories*.  The Taig cannot cut
    threads, while the Sherline and Unimat can (with accessories).  Sherline
    and Unimat sell a milling add-on.  The Taigs come in unbundled kit form
    where you have to buy everything; they claim an overall accuracy of
    .0004 inch and have excellent parts and service, and also sell a
    watchmaking headstock.  Taig is the cheapest at about $250 to get
    started, about $450 for Sherline.  It appears the only Unimat now
    being sold is the CNC "Unimat PC", at about $750.  Unimat seems to
    charge quite a bit more than normal for accessories.  Just keep in
    mind that these are not as rigid or powerful as full-sized lathes.

    * It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16
    spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessed
    far enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, not
    enough to be usable.  However, one reader bored out the back of a
    Taig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports it
    threads on his Sherline quite well now.  So, be careful if purchasing
    a Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!

    Harbor Freight sells a "precision 4x10" mini-lathe for around $700
    with autofeed, change gears for most english threads at extra cost.
    It is actually a 7" lathe which takes standard 2MT tailstock tooling
    and 3/8" cutting tools, and has Electronic Variable Speed (EVS)
    instead of changeable belts.  This is larger and sturdier than the
    Unimat/Sherline/Taig, and sounds similar to the 8" Grizzly except
    for the EVS.

    What can you do if you have little money?  Aside from looking at used
    equipment, you can actually build a lathe and other machine tools.
    Dave Gingery wrote an excellent series of books on building your own
    machine tools with just hand tools.  While it's a lot of work, you
    can learn a lot.  First you make an aluminum charcoal foundry, then
    a lathe, and finish up with a dividing head (five or six books later).
    Other authors have published detailed plans for making lathes.  See
    the publisher's catalogs from Lindsay, Cole's, Power Model, Tee,
    Nexus, and Argus.

    A very thorough discussion of vertical mills and what to look for
    was in Home Shop Machinist, July/August and September/October 1993,
    by Thomas Howard.  Here is a very brief summary:
     1.  Spindle-to-table distance, or "daylight."  Remember that by the
         time you clamp your work in a vise on a rotary table then slap a
         chuck with a drill into the spindle, you might run out of room.
         Try to anticipate your needs.
     2.  Knee mills:  A mill where you can raise/lower the table with a
         crank, as opposed to only raising/lowering the head and/or quill.
         Knee mills are generally more useful and accurate.
     3.  Spindle brake:  Locks the spindle during tool-changing.  Very
         nice to have.
     4.  Power downfeed on spindle.  A very nice option, relieves tedium
         when boring, and often yields better surface finish.
     5.  Spindle taper: determines what type of tooling you can "plug in"
         to the spindle.  R-8 is most popular, and there's lots of inexpensive
         tooling.  Morse and Brown&Sharpe exist and are less popular.
     6.  Bearings:  Apparently it's not as important whether they are ball
         roller bearings, as the grade.  And the better the grade, the
         longer the machine lasts, more than anything else.
     7.  Table sizes and travel:  Like lathes, you can always use one an
         inch larger!  Don't buy one larger than you have room for.
         From 6x20 (inch) to 8x30 seems right for most home shops.  What
         will you be doing with it?
     8.  Power feed on X/Y axes.  Very nice to have, just barely falls
         into the "luxury" status.
     9.  Table and knee locks:  Used to maintain rigid setups when one
         of the axes won't be changed during an operation.  Check for
         easy access and that they lock solidly.
     10. Graduated dials with adjustable zero: an absolute necessity.
     11. Adjustable gibs: a necessity.
     12. Range and number of speeds.  An average is 100-2500 rpm,
         and 12 to 16 speeds.  Howard goes into great depth in his
         article to explain why you need both a wide range of rpm
         and many speed, and how those speeds should be spread out
         in a geometric progression.
     13. Motors: be sure you get a motor you can run.  Check frequency
         (60 or 50 Hz), voltage, and 1-phase vs 3-phase.  For home-shop
         use, anywhere from 3/4 to 1-1/2 seems right.
     14. One-shot oilers are nice but in many cases they don't work right
         and are hard to check.
     15. Look.  If at all possible, examine the machine you want, before
         you buy.
     16. Buying used:  you should be experienced enough to know what to
         test for!  Or "borrow" somebody who is.
     17. Will it fit?  Be sure it can be moved to where you want it.
         Don't buy then find the stairwell is smaller than you thought.
         Get professional movers to do the moving; "real" mills are
         literally "killers."
     18. Tooling:  can sometimes double the cost.

    ........................................

    The following comments, regarding the Central Machinery (Harbor
    Freight Salvage) "Precision 7"x10" Mini Lathe", were originally
    sent to John Kopf in response to a query of his, asking the
    opinions of this versus the Grizzley 8x18 lathe.

    Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1993 09:40:15 CST
    From: <U39466%UICVM@UIC.EDU> (Gordon Pari)

    I own a 7 x 10 mini-lathe offered by Harbor Freight.  First, the
    good points.  Compact size useful for relatively large turnings...easy
    to move/store....tight headstock bearings....nice 3-jaw Yamakawa (japanese)
    chuck....good cross-feed and compound feed...good accuracy overall...
    Mt2 tailstock compatability...fun to use...3/4" hole in spindle....
    quiet without feed engaged....relatively easy to set-up tooling...
    cuts threads.....has chip tray...uses cheap 3/8 tooling.

    Now for the down side....motor on mine with a Dremel speed control
    substituted for the factory setup has good high-speed power but is
    lacking in low-speed torque....my set-up produces surges of rpm 
    occasionally... newer version appear to have 2-speed setup that may help...
    HF parts supply is limited....I could not get jaws for the chuck (I need
    inside gripping because they were missing..used equipment!)...feed
    screw is poorly mounted/designed and uses up a lot of available
    power.....split nut on carriage is prone to disengage...the motor is
    120V DC fed by a rectifier and that may be part of my problem..
    manual carriage feed wheel/mechanism is not smooth and perhaps
    needs bushed.

    Overall, I love it because I bought it used needing some repairs
    for $95.  Enco in Chicago now offers it for $1000.  They are more
    reputable than HF IMHO.  They also cannot provide my jaws or a
    specifically designed 4-jaw.  If I paid $800 I would want the
    split-nut and RPM/POWER problems completely eliminated.  After
    my initial $95, I have spent about $65 for a live center and tools
    from Enco.  I use it weekly and am learning a lot.  A friend who
    is a lathe operator has used it and is impressed.  I hope this helps.
    If you buy one and find solutions/parts, keep me posted.

    Date: Tue, 23 Nov 93 14:48:23 -0800
    From: Greg Saville <gregs@sequent.com>

    Just one comment, if you end up ordering the Harbor Freight one, DON'T 
    order the $43.00 threading gear set.  Though it's not clear in the 
    catalog, it already DOES come with the lathe (unless you order the 
    ~$550 version that says "same as above, but without threading 
    capability.") ...

    I've enjoyed the lathe, have been pretty happy with it, but have no 
    other experience to be able to compare it to any other like the Grizzly
    you're also looking at.


    Date: Tue, 30 Nov 93 14:18:01 EST
    From: fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com

    I purchased one of these mini-lathes this summer.

    Since then I have read a few books and learned much about lathes.

    If I had to do it over again I would purchase the Grizzly "8"x18" Lathe 
    you mentioned.  I kinda like the mini-lathe for 1) the size and 2)
    the variable speed motor.  What I don't like is 1) Support (I had
    a bent shaft on my cross slide and called them back within 48 hours
    after receiving the lathe and I still haven't received the replacement
    part - I think they ordered it from Korea.), 2)  It is sufficiently 
    non-standard that Nobody makes a 4 jaw chuck for it or any other
    bolt on accessories such as a steady rest or a follow rest.

    But it seems to work and I have been having fun with it and learning.
    The size is great - I just finished cutting about 50 brass port holes
    for a model tub boat.

5.  Where do I buy a machine?

    Check out the Yellow Pages, the ads in the magazines, and catalogs
    from the "names and addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ.
    For example:

      Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc
      Alley Supply Company
      Enco
      Grizzly
      MSC

6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?


    - The Home Shop Machinist (HSM), "dedicated to precision metalworking"
      Published 6/year by Village Press (see addresses section), $24.50/year.
      Note that many back issues are not available, though most of the
      projects are available in the "Projects" book series.  Mostly
      techniques, no steam, some gasoline engine projects, many tooling
      projects.  Probably the best of the US magazines.  Some projects
      will span several issues.

    - Projects In Metal (PIM).
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $19.
      Mostly projects, few advertisements.  Each project is complete in one
      issue.  A "weak sister" to HSM, apparently started in part to handle
      overflow projects from HSM.  Earlier back-issues have been combined
      into a new book series called "Metalworking".

    - Live Steam Magazine.
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $31.
      Mostly trains, some techniques, some stationary engines, lots of
      history and club information.  Usually each issue has one stationary
      engine and two locomotive construction projects in various stages.

    - Model Engineer's Workshop
      Published bimonthly by Argus (or is it now Nexus?).
      Described as the British version of HSM, and similar to the
      tool-oriented writing in Model Engineer.  U.S. subscription rate
      is $38.  More "packed" than HSM, and features the uniquely
      English way of doing machining (e.g., spending hours to
      make a cutter to make the cutter for gear cutting, when many of
      us in the US would just order the gear cutter and be done with it).
      See the Model Engineer entry, below, for details on subscriptions.

    - Modeltec.  "Machinist Projects of Beauty and Usefulness"
      Published by George R. Broad, 12 per year.
      P.O. Box 1226
      St. Cloud, MN 56302
      Phone: (612) 654-0815
      http://www4.infoanalytic.com/modeltec
      $36 per year ($45 in U.S. funds if outside U.S.).
      Similar to Live Steam but not restricted to trains.  Lots of projects
      for railroad cars.

    - Strictly IC
      (IC stands for Internal Combustion)
      Published 6 times per year.
      $24.25 (+$2.00 US foreign, WA residents add $2.00 sales tax)
      Robert A. Washburn, editor
      24920 43rd Avenue S.
      Kent, WA  98032

      Concentrates on construction of miniature internal combustion engines,
      and has a few classified ads, usually for engine castings.

    - Gas Engine Magazine
      P.O. Box 328
      Lancaster, PA  17603
      (717) 392-0733, (717) 392-1341 (FAX)

    - Model Engineer
      Published twice each month, about $79 US/year (as of 2/2/95)
      Formerly published by Argus, now by Nexus.
      Their USA agent (also for Model Engineer Workshop) is Wise Owl
      Worldwide Services.

      The king of model machining magazines it has been around for about
      100 years.  Varied construction articles, lots on trains.  Some
      projects can take years to complete!  Extensive back-issues are
      available from Tee, and we presume from Argus/Nexus since
      they publish it in the first place!

      An index to back issues is available from:
      G.V. Wilkinson
      129 Springside Road
      Hillcrest 3610
      South Africa
      The index used to cost 30 pounds sterling, and is reportedly much
      better than Guy Lautard's.

      A computer-readable index is apparently available from Henri Larose,
      covering about 30 years (growing as he gets time to do more).  Cost
      is 30 UK pounds if in the UK, or $30 US if in the US.  Contact the
      author vie e-mail at 73114.3203@compuserve.com.  Or, his mail address
      is 211 Lanitos Ave, Sunnyvale Ca 94086.

    - Engineering in Miniature
      Published monthly, about $30/year.
      Tee Publishing

      Similar to Model Engineer, more steam traction engines.
      Has an extensive collection of back issues of this and other
      model magazines.

    - Clockmaker
      Published 6 times per year, around $30/year
      Tee Publishing
      Discusses how to build mechanical clocks, with many projects spanning
      several issues.  Big names like John Wilding write in this magazine.
      Classified ads for clockmaking supplies.

    - Workshop Masters
      Published by Tee, ceased regular publication in 1991.

    - American Machinist
      Penton Publishing
      1100 Superior Ave.
      Cleveland, OH 44114-2543
      (216) 696-7000, (216) 696-0177 (FAX)
      One of those free trade publications with lots of ads.

    - Metalworking Digest
      Gordon Publications, Inc.
      301 Gibralter Drive, Box 650
      Morris Plains, NJ  07950-0650
      (201) 292-5100, (201) 898-9281 (FAX)
      Another free trade publication with lots of ads.

    - Modern Machine Shop
      6600 Clough Pike
      Cincinnati, OH 45244-4090
      (513) 231-8020, (513) 231-2818 (FAX)
      Another free trade publication with lots of ads.

    - Horn & Whistle
      Richard Weisenberher
      2655 North Friendship, Lot #8
      Paducah, Kentucky  42001
      $18 per year.  Low budget, in that they publish anything people send
      in.  Some technology, some nostalgia, lots of stuff on meets where they
      get together and have "steam blasts."

    - Traction Engine Magazine

    - The Anvil's Ring
      This is the publication of ABANA (see below, associations)
      published 6 times a year; cost is $24 per year, or you get
      it as part of the $35 dues for joining ABANA.  An index is
      currently being maintained:
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ABANA/RingIndex.txt
      The newsletter of one of their chapters,  BAM (Blacksmith's
      Association of Missouri), is kept at:
        http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/BAM.html
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/00Latest/
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/
        For more info on BAM contact: Jim McCarty <JimfromLC@aol.com>

    - Anvil
      Published monthly, about $30 per year
      See Centaur Forge, elsewhere.

    - American Craft (bi-monthly) (jewelry)
      published by the American Craft Council
      40 West 53rd St.
      New York, NY 10019
      (212)956-3535
      Current work in metal, clay, glass, wood, textiles, mixed media;
      featured artists, calendar of events.

    - Metalsmith (quarterly) (jewelry)
      published by Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG)
      5009 Londonderry Drive
      Tampa, FL 33647
      (813)977-5326, (813)977-8462 fax
      Jewelry, techniques, featured artists, current exhibits.
      An index is at:  
         ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/SNAG/Metalsmith_Index.txt
      A contact is: Bob Mitchell <rmitchel@cftnet.com>

    - Ornament (quarterly)
      P.O. Box 2349
      San Marcos, CA 92079
      Jewelry (metal and beads) and textile/fiber art.

    - Machinery Journal
      P.O.Box 7767
      Long Beach, CA
      (310) 595-5731, (310) 424-1563 (FAX)

      Free.  A monthly list of machinery dealers.

    - Punch Press News
      P.O.Box 127
      Toledo, OH 43607
      (800) 255-0114, (913) 983-4398 (FAX)
      http://www.machinetools.com

      A sort of classified listing of machinery, alphabetical by type of
      machine; very neatly laid out.  Apparently costs $10 for a subscription.

    - Weldon F. Stump & Co.
      1313 Campbell
      Toledo, OH 43607
      (419) 243-6221, (419) 243-7277 (FAX)

      No prices, just inventory numbers of used machines, alphabetically
      listed by type.

    - Locator
      Published by the MDNA (Machinery Dealers National Association) in
      Silver Springs, MD, (301) 585-9494.  A monthly listing of used
      machinery.  You can call them for a free list of dealers, and/or
      a free issue of Locator.

    - Used Equipment Directory/Network
      P.O. Box 823
      Hasbrouck Heights, NJ  07604-0823
      (201) 393-9558, (800) 526-6052, (201) 393-9553 (FAX)
      BBS (201) 625-2636 8N1 modem settings
      telnet buyused.hsix.com or http://www.hsix.com

      Used equipment list, available on-line or in printed form.  They
      reportedly will give you one free copy of the printed magazine for
      evaluation.

    - INDUSTRIAL MACHINE TRADER
      P.O. Box 1415
      Fort Dodge, IA 50501
      (800) 247-2000, (515) 955-3753 FAX

      A heartland Industrial Group Publication.
      "The only weekly nationwide publication that links active buyers and
      sellers of new and used industrial Machinery"

    - The Surplus Record
      20 N. Wacker Dr.
      Chicago, IL 60606
      (312) 372-9077, (312) 372-6537
      tscanlan@surplusrecord.com
      http://www.surplusrecord.com

      An industrial database of used and surplus machinery and equipment.
      There is also a Listserv: "machine@surplusrecord.com" where users can 
      e-mail their machine tool inquiries, whether the machine(s) are wanted 
      or for sale.

7.  Where might one take classes or get instruction?

    This depends on several factors, mostly where you live.  Good places
    to check out include community colleges (universities sometimes will
    have classes in metalworking, but perhaps only for already-enrolled
    students or faculty/staff).  Sometimes a high school will offer night
    or weekend classes to the public, funding permitting.  Also look for
    vocational/technical schools, and possibly even art schools since some
    metal sculpturing requires a firm background in welding.  In a few cases
    there may be specialized schools in your area, so check your yellow
    pages or ask around.

    Some examples:  John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown NC
    (800) 562-2440, Craft Center in Ripley WV.

    Some schools also offer room and board and/or campground hookups.

8.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?

    The Yellow Pages are often a good place to start.  Also,
    the advertisements in magazines like Home Shop Machinist.

    Another way is to go find your nearest junk yard and/or metal recycling
    business and scrounge around.  Make friends with a machinist at the
    nearest mining operation and ask for their throwaway "scraps".  Order
    from a supply company (see ads in the magazines, and/or the "names
    and addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ).

    Sometimes you can discover a creative re-use.  For example, buy a few
    old aluminum automotive pistons, perhaps from your junk yard or a
    garage that rebuilds engines.  Cut off the top and clean it up on your
    lathe.  Now you have a nice round blank to start some project with.
    Similar discoveries should be posted to the newsgroup!

    Some of the magazines have ads for small "garage" shops that produce
    specialized castings.

9.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?

    Many of the places that sell equipment also sell tools
    but there are also outlets that only sell accessories such as
    lathe bits, drills, taps, and so on.  Scan the "names and
    addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ.

10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?

    ABANA - Artist Blacksmiths Association of North America
    PO Box 206
    Washington, MO 63090
    (314) 390-2133
    Dues are $35 per year, which also includes their publication
    "The Anvil's Ring" (see earlier, magazines)

    The British counterpart is apparently the BABA (British Artist Blacksmiths
    Association) but I don't have an address for them.

    The American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)
    345 East 47th Street
    New York, NY 10017
    (800) 843-2763, toll-free Mexico phone: 95-800-843-2763
    toll phone: (201) 882-1167; fax: (201) 882-1717 & (201) 882-5155
    email: infocentral@asme.org

    The ASME publishes codes and standards for drafting, pressure vessels,
    machine tool accuracy, etc.  There was recently a thread in which a
    gentleman asked about alternate sources for an ANSI standard (published
    by the ASME).  Unfortunately, the third-party publishers charge more
    for these documents than the ASME does (the originator).  In this
    particular case the third-party wanted $100 for a standard that the
    ASME charges $23 for.

    The Society of Model & Experimental Engineers (SMEE)
    Marshall House
    28 Wanless Road
    London
    SE24 0WH

    Society of North American Gold Smiths, SNAG
    5009 Londonderry Drive
    Tampa, FL 33647
    (813)977-5326, (813)977-8462 fax
    They publish the quarterly magazine Metalsmith (q.v.), and a bi-monthly
    newsletter, and you get both for the $55 membership.  The membership also
    gives you a discount on the annual conference.  You can also contact
    them via e-mail at rmitchel@cftnet.com.

    MDNA (Machinery Dealers National Association)
    Silver Spring, MD
    (301) 585-9494

    You can call them, or drop e-mail to morton@interserv.com for a list of
    machinery dealers.  They publish a magazine called the Locator which
    lists over 25,000 separate metalworking machines each month; you can also
    ask them for a single free copy if you don't want to subscribe.

    American Welding Society (AWS)
    (800) 443-9353, (305) 443-9353
    http://www.amweld.org/

    "Founded in 1919, the American Welding Society is dedicated to providing
    high quality services to our members and the industry which will advance
    the science, technology and applications of materials joining throughout
    the world."

    ASTM -- American Society for Testing and Materials
    (610) 832-9585

    Publishes various manuals and publications relating to metalworking,
    among other things.

11. How do I harden/temper metal?

    Heat treating is a *huge* subject, and depends on the metal, and
    intended use.  Most of the time, this question is asked regarding steel,
    so we'll give a brief description of that, based on an article in Home
    Shop Machinist (Sept/Oct 1991, "Heat Treating Basics" by Steve Acker).

[Also thanks to Steve Gaudio (?) for his post of 18-Sep-1992,
 and clarification by Tim Eisele]

    Iron will, at common temperatures, organize itself into an atomic
    structure that is called "body centered cubic."  This consists of
    overlapping cubes with an atom at each corner, and one more in the
    center of the cube.  But above roughly 1400 degrees F there is a
    change in structure to "face centered cubic" and the central atoms
    migrate to the faces of the cubes.  This latter form is not magnetic.

    Steel is basically iron with some carbon mixed in, though modern
    alloys have various other metals and substances as well.  When
    steel is heated to the critical temperature (about 1400 degrees F),
    the iron will change to face centered, and the carbon atoms will
    migrate into the central position formerly occupied by an iron atom.
    This form of red-hot steel is called austentite.  Since it is not
    magnetic, a magnet may be used to determine when the critical
    temperature has been reached (though the magnetism may be lost
    before the transition, so this is only approximate).  Complete
    migration of the carbon atoms may take a minute or two.

    If you let this cool slowly, the iron atoms migrate back into the cube
    and force the carbon back out, resulting in soft steel called pearlite.
    If the sample was formerly hard, this softening process is called
    annealing.

    If you cool (quench) the sample suddenly by immersing it in oil or
    water, the carbon atoms are trapped, and the result is a very hard,
    brittle steel.  Too brittle for most uses.  The structure is now a
    body centered tetragonal form called martensite.

    So, the next step is to heat it back up, to between 200 and 800
    degrees F or so, depending on the desired end hardness.  This allows
    some of the hardness to relieved and is called tempering.  The
    amount of tempering that is desirable depends on the final use.
    Cutting tools are very hard, knife blades less so because they
    must flex under use rather than break.  Tempering is a trade-off
    between hardness and flexibility.

    Accurately measuring the tempering temperature is important.  A
    nice, expensive thermostatically-controlled oven is great.  Or,
    some special compounds can be applied that melt or change color at
    the right temp, such as Tempilstik and Tempilaq.  If the steel is
    clean to start with, then you may notice that it goes through
    certain color changes as it heats up, with understandably vague
    descriptions such as "light straw" indicating about 440 degrees F,
    and purple=520.  These colors are not incandescence colors, but
    are viewed in normal room light.  The colors are due to types of
    surface oxidation that are temperature dependent.

    When quenching, it is often very important to avoid stirring a
    part because this will cool one side much more quickly than
    the other, and might cause warping.  For knife blades, as an
    example, move it strictly up and down during the quench.

    Case hardening is a bit trickier, and involves heating the object in
    some sort of agent that promotes hardening at the surface.  Liquid
    cyanide works well but should be out of the question for the home
    machinist.  Luckily there are substitutes available from suppliers,
    one being called Kasenit, for example.  Note that hardness is
    often measured using a "Rockwell C" scale, with 63 being very hard
    and 35 being fairly soft.

    A type of steel called "drill rod" is especially useful for home/hobby
    use.  As its name implies, it is the type of steel used for drills,
    and is available is round or square form (square drills?).  Drill
    rod is also very useful around the shop because it is usually made
    to very accurate dimensions.  Some types of drill rod are formulated
    for hardening via heating then quenching in oil, while others are
    quenched in water.  The difference is that water will cool more quickly
    because it's a good conductor (though it may also form a steam "jacket"
    that moderates this effect), while oil will cool more slowly.  Since
    rapid cooling may warp a part, this could make a difference in the
    final product.

    There is also an "air hardening" steel, though it seems to be
    quite a bit more expensive than other steels.

    It has been reported, by way of example, that you can make springs
    out of hacksaw blades by annealing, bending, hardening, then tempering
    by heating to a "metallic blue" and quenching in oil.  I suspect lots
    of experimenting may be in order before you get things just right.
    Remember the steel must be clean (no paint etc.) to see the colors.

    Quenching in oil may be a fire hazard.  Take proper precautions, such
    as removing flammable materials from the area, wear proper clothing,
    and have an extinguisher handy.  Even quenching in water presents
    the risk of scalding from steam or splattered water.

    As one newsgroup reader pointed out, not only are there a gerbillion
    alloys, but zillions of treatments to choose from, and this is just
    for steels.  Other metals, like brass, can be hardened by "working"
    the metal, by bending, hammering, peening, etc.  Brass is usually
    annealed with a quench, which is the opposite of steel.

    It's best to carefully research your particular project first,
    especially if it's something that is valuable.

    A recent book, "Simplified Tool Steel Heat Treatment and Selection
    Guide" by Bill Bryson, may be of some help.
    $31.95 from Bill Bryson, Dept. HSM, RR 1, Box 4243, Union, NH 03887.
    I purchased this, and was surprised to spend $32 on 100 pages of
    loose-leaf pages.  The information is geared more towards the small
    commercial shop than the home shop, and thus deals with issues such
    as atmospheric control (using stainless-steel foil) and using accurate
    temperatures.  In the home shop, we usually read about methods like
    "hit it with a torch then drop it in a bucket of oil."  Bryson goes
    beyond this, discussing accurate methods that might be out of reach
    for some of us, but just barely.  He also has a chapter on cryogenic
    treatment, that can also be used in the home shop via dry ice.
    http://www.worldpath.net/~hisaim for more info and ordering info.

    Power Model Supply recently (December 1992) listed two small heat
    treating ovens in an HSM ad.   2000 degrees F, 4x4x4 inch $330,
    6x6x6 $435.  Write them for more info or see the ad.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 3 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160255.23906@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:55 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 3
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:55 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 552

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 3 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

12. How do I wire up this strange motor?

    (with thanks to Bill Brown)

    The following describes how to deal with an AC/DC "universal" motor
    that has 4 unmarked wires coming out.  Be sure you don't have some
    other motor, such as a 3-phase unit.

    Other motors are covered in an FAQ for the newsgroup rec.woodworking.
    The FAQ postings (six of them) for rec.woodworking are normally posted
    around the first of each month, and possibly also posted to the newsgroup
    news.answers.  I can't say how long *your* news system will choose
    to keep these around!  Look for "Frequently Asked Questions about
    Electric Motors."  Also, the "Electrical Wiring FAQ" may be of
    interest.

    The universal motor is called that because it can run on AC or DC.
    Older units might have been designed this way because very early
    power distribution had not settled on AC or DC, or with 50 or 60
    cycles.  Thus, such a motor could be used universally, in all locations
    provided the voltage was within reason.  This still may be a concern
    with some on-site jobs feeding power tools from DC sources such as
    portable welding rigs.  Another nice thing about these motors is
    that they are easily reversible.  They are also easily speed-controlled,
    such as in hand drills, whereas induction motors prefer to run at or
    near synchronous speed.

    The first task is to determine which two wires go to the armature,
    and which go to the field winding.  If you can't tell by examining
    where the wires go (or the nameplate), get an ohmmeter and connect
    it to the wires until you find two that show some continuity.  Rotate
    the shaft slowly by hand and note if the resistance changes as you
    turn it.  If it does, you probably have the armature, and the
    fluctuations are due to the brushes making and breaking contact with
    the commutator.  The other winding (field coil) should show a steady
    resistance.

    Presuming you want the ability to reverse the motor, find a switch
    that can handle the rated current, in the double-pole-double-throw
    configuration with a center-off position.  The suggested hook-up is
    (as usual, a bad ASCII graphic):

                                 +-------------------+
     1                           |                   |
     2 ----------FIELD-------o<--O   o               A
     0  white                 \     /                R
                                \ /                  M
     V                           X                   A
     O                          / \                  T
     L  black                  /   \                 U
     T ----------------------o<--O   o               E
     S                           |                   |
                                 +-------------------+

     NOTE: no connection at "X";
           Include a green-wire frame ground if at all possible

    Avoid reversing the motor while it is moving in the "other" direction
    as this could severely stress the switch and motor (particularly
    the brushes).  Move the switch to the center (off) position, and
    continue on to the other direction after the motor has stopped.

    Please, always be careful when dealing with electricity.  If you
    don't feel comfortable and safe doing such a hook-up, find someone
    who can do it for you, or at least who can check what you're doing.


13.  How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
     The following suggestions were offered by Stu Friedberg --

     Get the catalogs and know what you want.  There are often many
     sizes, models, and sources of an "X", so you need to know which
     particular X when you write and especially when you call to place
     an order.  Even the smallest industrial supply houses deal in tens
     of thousands of items, which means even very knowledgeable order-takers
     can't always give you the information you need over the phone.
     Reserve queries about details for stuff that you couldn't figure
     out for yourself.

     Many of the order takers are very helpful and knowledgeable.  At
     *SOME* sources the order takers can actually go look in the stock
     bins, take a micrometer to measure a shaft diameter, etc.  I have
     had people at three different companies do something like this for
     me.  However, some companies have computerized centralized order
     taking at a location completely separate from their stocking
     locations, so don't *assume* people can tell you anything that's
     not written in the catalog.  I've had one company tell me to just
     order a set of change gears and return them if I couldn't use them.
     This wasn't crazy, the order taker simply had no relevant information
     available.

     Get the catalogs and shop around.  Very often there are *big*
     differences in price between identical items, and even more often
     one source will have a unique or slightly different item at an
     excellent price compared to the "standard" item.  There are lots
     of reasons for this.  I have seen 2 to 1 price ratios on things
     like shim stock (from the same manufacturer) and "can't twist"
     clamps (from different manufactures but of equal quality).
     Occasionally, you will find 10 to 1 price ratios on things like
     boxes of hose clamps.  Great deals if you look around.  If you can,
     examine a tool at a local store (where the prices may be higher)
     to see what the quality is like, before placing the order by mail
     or telephone.

     You can also learn a great deal by perusing the catalogs, both
     about tools in general, and about specific details of specific
     tools.  There's seldom enough room in a catalog to print all the
     manufacturer's data, but different sources will select different
     stuff to print.  I have many times used one company's catalog to
     select the precise thing I wanted, then bought it from another
     company because the price was better.

     Most suppliers ship quickly if they have a credit card authorization.
     If they don't ship within two working days on a routine basis, shop
     somewhere else in the future.  One full working day is quite common.

     I have had only one bad incident in the 4 or 5 years I've been
     buying industrial stuff by telephone, and came through with no
     losses.  A supply company (which entered bankruptcy proceedings
     just a little while ago, by the way) charged my credit card for
     the full amount of my order, didn't ship for a month, and was
     completely clueless as to when they would ship my order.  That is
     intolerable, and protection against abuse like that is one good
     reason to use a credit card rather than sending a check.  You don't
     need to sue to get your money back if the merchant doesn't come
     through.  (If it's not obvious, I got my money back and started to
     throw out that company's catalogs as they arrived.)

     Some industrial suppliers don't do back orders because it slows
     things down.  The stock pickers send what's in stock and mark out
     of stock items on the invoice.  This may be a little different from
     retail mail order sources you've dealt with in the past.  Contact
     them about what's in stock and when it's expected to be available.

     Be prepared to return an item.  Having to return an item because
     it was misshipped, defective, or of unsatisfactory quality is *NOT*
     an indictment of the supplier.  If you do enough shopping for
     industrial supplies, you will find that you have to do a partial
     return maybe 1 time in 5.  Don't get mad; don't get upset.  It's
     routine.  Industrial supply and consumer retail have different
     expectations about quality control.

     When you return an item, follow instructions.  Many, but not all,
     suppliers require you to contact them for a "return authorization"
     number, which you must write on the outside of the package.  You
     should include a copy of the invoice in the package.  This is *NOT*
     an opportunity for the supplier to screw you over.  This is a
     routine matter, and most of them just ask you to note on the invoice
     what was wrong and if you want credit, a refund, an exchange for
     something else, or whatever.

14.  How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
     This is actually a tricky subject, and beyond the scope of this FAQ.
     However, an excellent book on sharpening knives and similar tools is:

        The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening, by John Juranitch.
        1985 by Warner Books, ISBN 0-446-38002-4, $12.50

     This book can sometimes be found in the larger knife stores, such as
     frequently found in USA malls (e.g. Cutlery World).  It is a bit
     biased in that John also sells sharpening equipment, but the techniques
     are fundamental and can be used with competitor's equipment such as
     Lansky's.  Another source for the book is Knife World Books,
     (800) 828-7751 Ext 71.

     Sharpening drill bits has never seemed easy.  If you have lots of
     money, Darex makes drill and mill sharpeners, and Glendo's Accu-
     Finish line addresses simpler cutting bits (and they even re-sell
     some Darex tools in conjunction with their grinders).  Black and
     Decker reportedly make a decent drill sharpener (1/8" to 1/2")
     for around $250.

     On 3/18/96, Curt Anderson (anderson@darex.com) posted a nice summary
     of some sharpening methods for drills:
     -------------------------
     I'll list a few options and the pros and cons.
     1. Sharpening off-hand. PRO: No expensive equipment other than a 
        grinder is needed.  There is certain satisfaction in knowing how to 
        hand sharpen.  CON: Its unlikely that the drill is ground concentricly
        or that the angles of the point are equal in length and degree. Thus
        the drill is really just cutting on one side.  Therefore, the holes
        may not be the size or shape you expected.
     2. There are various drill sharpeners sold in hardware stores.  
        E.g.: the Accu-sharp, the Multi-sharp and the Martek.  PRO: They are 
        relatively cheap $69 and under.  Some even sharpen other tools like 
        chisels and knives.  CON: In my opinion, they really do a lousy job on 
        drills.  For one thing, the operator is expected grind equal amounts 
        off both cutting edges (this by eyeballing).  Other than the more 
        consistent angle, the drill might as well be sharpened by hand.
     3. Another option is a machine-shop-quality sharpener like the 
        Darex.  (I should say that I work for Darex, so I'm somewhat biased).
        For those interested there is an extensive list of Darex pros, see
        http://www.darex.com).  PRO: Accuracy and simplicity.  The Darex
        (and some of our competitors) produce accurate drills and on-size
        holes.  Drill points can be changed to meet the needs of varying
        materials.  CON: The price.  Our least expensive sharpener is
        the M3 at $298.  Although, we sell a lot of M3s and even
        our more expensive models through "HomeShop Machinist", etc., we
        realize that the price may not be worth the convenience of having
        sharp, accurate drills for the casual hobbyists.  
     4. Another option is to send your drills to a sharpening service.  
        (Jim Harvey of this newsgroup will sharpen your drills with a Darex.  
        He is on the web.  We have a link to Jim's sharpening service at 
        http://www.darex.com/links.htm)  PRO: You get drills that are 
        as good as new at the angle and relief you want for a cost much less 
        than new.  CON: You may have to wait a day or two to get your drills 
        back.
     5. Run down to the hardware store each time you need a drill.  Or keep a
        supply on hand.
        PRO:  No big expenditures.  CON: It's a hassle.
     ---------------------------- (end of note by curt)
     Some of the magazines will print articles from time to time on
     sharpening, and/or building sharpening equipment.  For example,
     there is an article in the March/April 1996 issue of Home Shop
     Machinist by Frank McLean on setting up and using the less-expensive
     drill grinding attachments.

15.  The following text on safety was donated by Gary Preckshot:

     The forces involved in metalworking machinery are far higher than most
     people expect.  You can either be struck by shrapnel or pulled into
     a machine by being caught by a moving part.  There are several rules that
     reduce these hazards:
      a) Don't wear loose clothes, ties, unsecured braids, or jewelry.
      b) Turn off machines and *WAIT* for rundown before approaching the
         working area.  You'll spend a lot more time in an ER than you'll ever
         save by jumping in right away.
      c) Don't snap chips using a shop towel.  Use a brush or air.
      d) Don't mess with long chips curling off a turning.  If you get build
         up, stop the machine and remove the chips wearing leather gloves and
         using pliers.
      e) Keep power transmission belts of any kind isolated and guarded.  Flat
         leather belts are especially hazardous because they tend to be
         unguarded on crowned cone pulleys.

     If in doubt, add more clamps.  If in doubt, chuck more deeply or use a
     collet.  A turning that comes adrift can damage both the lathe and you.
     A workpiece that shifts can damage both the mill and you.

     Stuff gets hot when cut.  Let it cool before picking it up.

     Metal cutting generally leaves a sharp burr.  Break the edges with a
     file or a de-burring tool before you release the work for general
     handling.

     Don't let kids, wives, husbands, girlfriends, or boyfriends close to
     metalworking operations without training or close supervision.

     Chips are extremely sharp.  Long, curled chips from lathe turnings are
     especially dangerous because kids, wives, husbands, girlfriends, or 
     boyfriends see only how pretty they are.  You can get a very deep cut
     by handling such chips with your hands.  Have a system for removing
     and storing chips.  Use it regularly.

     Use eye protection - ALWAYS.

     Beware of fascination.  Metal cutting tools flash and glint as they spin.
     An unwary person may reach toward the pretty, shiny tool.  This is
     no joke.  It happens.  Then you take a trip to the local ER.

     Don't watch welding without adequate dark glass filters.

     You can get a tan in 2 minutes and a burn in five on any exposed
     skin close to arc welding.  It doesn't hurt for about 3 hours, but
     then it hurts for days.  Cover up.

     Don't play with air.  Not only can it inject chips (by blowing them)
     into your body, but it can inject oily air as well.  Sometimes right
     through the skin.  Air is no joke.

     In general, no horseplay in the shop.  Banish anybody who can't
     understand this simple rule.  This is one place where absolute
     dictatorship is better than democracy.

     Take your time.  You'll save on rework time, machine repair, and
     medical costs.

16.  How do I drill round holes?

     In May 1993 the following question was posted. This brought a lot of
     useful suggestions for a problem often seen ...

     Subject: I can't drill round holes

       I am trying to drill 1/4" holes in 3/32" mild steel with a H/S twist
       bit in a 12" Delta bench press.  The holes are not round.  They tend
       towards the triangular.  The piece I am drilling has a 1 1/4" square
       cross section.  The distortion is worst in the exit hole through the
       bottom of the member.  What is going on? Is there anything I can do
       to correct the problem?

     Morgan Hall gave the following shot as to how a simple twist drill
     manages to create a non-circular hole:

       Hint -- look at the rotor and housing of a Mazda rotary engine

       You can model the working end of a drill bit as a single straight line
       of finite length. If you fix one end and try to rotate it, the opposite
       end of the line sweeps out an arc.  (the drill flexes)  After about 1/3
       revolution, the stuck end breaks free and sweeps out another arc while
       the formerly free end sticks.  With alternate ends sticking, then
       breaking free, the arcs will form a kind of polygon with arcs of radius
       equal to the drill's diameter.  After the first cuts, the "corners" of
       the polygon tend to stop the sweeping cut for each drill flute.  The
       most common I've seen is the triangular hole, but other polygons are
       definitely possible.  I suspect that this occurrence is related to some
       sort of resonance in the drilling setup.

     The suggestions that followed may be useful to anyone trying to drill
     holes.  Some of them may qualify as 'obvious' but they're still worth
     bearing in mind...

     * Ensure the drill is sharp.
     * Make sure the work is firmly clamped
     * Don't try and run the bit too fast for the drill size and work material.
     * Don't force the feed rate; as with *any* cutting process, let the
       cutter do the cutting.
     * Keep as much of the drill in the chuck as possible. The more flexibility
       there is in the drill, the more likely you are to have problems.
     * When drilling thin material, it is often useful to provide some form of
       backing clamped to the work. This has the added advantage of keeping the
       burrs to a minimum.
     * The drill tip may need to be ground to a different angle, depending on
       the material being worked.
     * An undersize pilot hole is often a good idea. If you are drilling using
       a mark made with a centre punch and the tip of the drill is larger than
       the mark, you are unlikely to get accurate placement.
     * Don't forget to use a cutting lubricant
     * The quality of the hole is only going to be as good as the machine you
       are using will allow. If the drill spindle is sloppy, there may be
       nothing you can do about it.

     As a final comment, if you really want a round, accurately sized hole,
     you are unlikely to get it with a twist drill. Drill undersize and use
     a reamer if it's important.

     Another alternative to very finely finished holes is to force a hard
     polished sphere through a slightly undersized hole.  See the vendor
     list, under "Spheric".

17.  What's TIG and MIG?

     TIG - Tungsten Inert Gas; also called GTAW -- Gas Tungsten Arc Weld,
            but nobody calls it that except the American Welding Society (AWS)

     A small torch with a tungsten electrode is used to make the arc inside
     an envelope of an inert gas, usually argon or some argon mixture.  A
     filler rod is manually introduced to complete the weld.  The resulting
     weld is very pretty and usually requires no further finish.  It is
     used mostly for welding sheets of mild steel, stainless steel or
     aluminum.  The better machines have a foot control and a high frequency
     arc starter.  Any sizable stick welder can be retro-fitted to do TIG
     welding, but without the foot control.

     MIG - Metal Inert Gas

     MIG and wire feed are the same thing.  In this process, a consumable
     wire electrode is fed from a spool to the torch where the weld occurs
     inside an envelop of pure carbon dioxide, pure argon or a mixture of
     both.  The weld continues as long as the operator has the trigger
     depressed and there is something to weld.  This process is very fast,
     easy to learn and results in fairly good looking (better with argon)
     and strong welds.  Most production welding of mild steel is now done
     with MIG welding.  There is no slag to chip, but there is a slight
     thin coating of a glassy material that probably should be wire brushed
     off before painting.  MIG welding can be used for thin or thick
     materials and is commonly used on mild steel, stainless and aluminum.
     Some common features of MIG machines are spot welding and stitch
     welding of sheet metal.

     There is a special wire called flux core that can be used in a MIG
     welder without the shielding gas.  This process leaves a slag coating
     that must be chipped off.  For most people on this group there isn't
     much use for flux core, as it was developed to reduce cost for large-
     scale welding where the cost of Argon starts piling up.

     There are fairly cheap 120 volt MIG welders that will only weld thin
     sheet metal.  A more practical 240 volt machine that will weld up to
     about .25 inch is about $1500-$2000 new, $800-$1200 used.  The machine
     I have will do MIG welding and stick welding, but most are MIG only.
     A machine that will weld .25 inch in a single pass will still weld
     thicker materials with multiple passes.

18.  MIG welding technique.

     (The following was submitted by James Swonger on May 4, 1993)

      The quality of a MIG weld is controlled by gas flow, the qualities of
     that gas, the "heat" and feed rate settings.  While getting a quality weld
     is less dependent on "touch" than gas or arc welding, it does depend on
     the right combination of the settable machine parameters.

      There are three modes of material transfer in a wire feed machine.  One
     is "blob mode", where the wire sticks, then melts locally, then breaks.
     This occurs at the lower end of the heat/wire feed range.  I say heat/feed
     rate as a ratio, because this pretty much determines which deposition mode
     you will see.  Blob mode welds are the lowest penetration and lowest
     transferre heat, because there's almost no real arc action, just mostly
     resistive heating of the wire and contact point.

      The second mode as you move up the range is a soft arc with the metal
     being pushed through it.  You'll recognize this mode when it happens;
     there's no more "wire push", the sound changes from a random snapping to a
     more uniform sizzle and everything just gets smooth.  This is what I
     consider the ideal mode.  The arc is stable but most of its energy is
     transferred into melting the fed wire and a localized area of the
     workpiece.  In this mode I see about 1/4" of heat affected zone around
     the weld (automotive sheet metal thickness), and by proper setting I can
     get perfect penetration which I define to be some backside protrusion but
     no sag or burn-through.  The handpiece ("gun") in this mode may have a
     buzzing feel to it but none of the bucking you get in blob mode.

      The third mode is when heat is much higher than the wire feed rate needs.
     This mode is akin to traditional arc welding, except with a fed wire.  The
     arc energy now is biased more into the workpiece, with attendant heating
     and penetration.  The wire still adds filler but there is more tendency to
     undercut, eat back and blow through especially on thin pieces.  In this
     high heat/feed mode the buzzing/sizzling sound is replaced by a more
     purely electrical arc sound (whispering/crackling).  This mode is
     desirable when welding pieces much thicker than the wire, especially when
     you haven't taken the bother of grinding proper chamfers and need to get
     penetration.

      Gas flow provides an important cooling effect. This is one reason why
     flux cored wire is harder to use on sheet metal; there's no place for the
     weld heat to go except the workpiece.  Argon, A75 and CO2 have different
     welding characteristics.  Argon will make the weld "sit up" higher, CO2
     gives the most penetration and A75 is in the middle somewhere.  Only Argon
     is suitable for aluminum; A75 is sort of marginal for stainless (leaves
     some carbon) but pretty ideal for general mild steel use.

      An adjustable regulator provides more latitude in balancing arc heat/feed
     and cooling.  A high flow of gas can reduce warpage while allowing faster
     material transfer.  I have a cheap preset flow regulator which is a 
     compromise setting, compromise price type deal.

      To minimize panel warpage you must apply some technique as well.  The MIG
     machine does not eliminate the need for skill; it just lets you apply your
     attention to more important things and lets you slide on some of the
     basics.  Warping results from too much differential heating and expansion 
     in the workpiece.  By understanding the material and equipment you can 
     keep this from being a problem. 

      Duty cycle is one simple way of further reducing overall heat input.  By
     welding in short, spaced beads you can join panels without overheating
     any large areas.  First the piece should be "tacked" every few inches,
     with bead lengths of 1/2" or so.  Make several passes after that, filling
     in the gaps bit by bit and not working any one region for long.  The
     workpiece's thermal spreading will cool the small HAZ (*) pretty quickly
     if the total heat deposited remains small.  A spot cools much more rapidly
     than a line.

      The edge of a thin metal piece presents a special case, a "boundary 
     condition" which behaves differently than the bulk.  With half the heat
     dissipation ability of the bulk, the edge will tend to burn back, distort
     and so on.  This can be addressed by reducing heat (although this may
     force you into running blob mode), by different choice of metal overlap 
     configuration and by carefully running the arc.

      A true butt joint in thin material is difficult to make.  A -perfect-
     butting is hard to do on formed sheet metal, and any gaps will tend to
     enlarge in the welding process.  For this reason a lapped weld is often
     preferred.  A panel can be flanged to let the two pieces overlap but
     keep the final surface flush.  The flange provides a backup as well in
     case of erosion of the edge on the top piece.

       =========\\W++++++++++++
                 \\====

     A second sort of joint is a butted-V which protects the edges as the weld 
     hits the sidewalls without necessarily reaching the bottom of the groove.

     --------\WW+++++++++
                    \+

      Places like Eastwood sell specialty tools for making both types of
     flanges on sheet metal.  Of course, you need to be careful not to cause
     deformation from the flanging process itself.  I have made my own flanging
     tool for the first form out of an extra pair of Channel-Loks with extra
     jaw material brazed in and ground to shape.  The Eastwood tool is
     Vise-Grip based and looks like it's a bit better as far as force required
     to make the flange due to the compound action.  I think a pair of beat up
     sheet metal shears might be a better basis for making a new one.


     (*) HAZ = Heat Affected Zone; the area where you see thermally-induced
     material changes in the workpiece.  This is basically the extent of any
     visible surface discoloration when using the MIG, although if you run the
     gas after stopping the arc you may not even be able to see anything
     because oxygen is excluded.  If you remove the gas and arc together you
     will get the normal thin oxidation layer like you see when grinding or
     heating to temper.  The outside of the blue oxide region is the periphery
     of the HAZ, although the material effects there are probably negligible.

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     The following was submitted by mrehmus@ix.netcom.com

      Use of MIG for body work.  A bad idea fostered on us amateurs by our
      ignorance.  If you look at the available wire for MIG, you don't find
      anything much softer than S60 or higher wire.  In general, the higher
      the yield strength of metal, the harder it is to work.  (Try forming
      tool-steel as a test).  The weld bead left by a MIG is very hard
      relative to the body sheet metal and is almost impossible to work.
      It also cracks very easily even if one trys to anneal the metal in
      the weld.  In restoring a 1967 Mercury Cougar I finally had to teach
      myself hammer welding using a welding torch.  The results were much
      better!!
        1.  The seam is the same thickness as the parent sheet metal.
        2.  The seam is as soft or softer than the parent sheet metal.
        3.  The seam and the surrounding sheet metal are easily worked to
            remove any defects caused by the welding process.
      Should anyone want to equal the hammer welding process but with an
      electric source of heat, TIG is the only way to go.  The filler metal
      selection is much, much wider and the TIG can be run way down to 10 amps
      or so which would probably let you weld aluminum foil if you wished.
      Oh yea, in the professional welder's world, the common opinion is that
      a TIG weld is superior to MIG.

      So why do the professional body shops like the MIG?  It is necessary for
      the welding of high-strength steel that is commonly used in the
      structural parts of the modern automobile.  Not, I repeat, NOT for the
      external sheet metal.  The external sheet metal (the part we can see) is
      still mild steel because of the expense and difficulty of making sheet
      metal forming dies that would last and give good results with
      high-strength steel.  Remember that body shops replace whole panels,
      they rarely "patch" a panel.  The high-quality restoration shops use
      TIG or (usually) a torch and hammer welding.

      GOOD video tapes to know about:

      "Learning MIG Welding" by SIP
         (one source is J.C. Whitney, their # 12VL7580P, $26.99; their
          phone number is (312) 431-6102)
      "Hammerwelding Techniques" by Car Guy Videotapes
      "Patch Panel Installation" by Car Guy Videotapes

      I have watched these tapes many times, always learning more at every
      session.

      The tape on MIG welding uses a good visual filter technique to show every
      type of weld puddle.  After viewing the tape, my MIG welding has been
      much better.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 8 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160305.23911@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:05 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 8
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:05 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 455

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 8 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

36.  Solvent safety
     Doug White (gwhite@ll.mit.edu) posted this on 11/16/94 regarding
     safety of some common solvents:

         HEALTH HAZARDS OF COMMON CHEMICAL CLEANING SOLVENTS

     People in several different newsgroups I subscribe to use chemical
     solvents for various projects.  A while back in rec.bicycles, there was a
     discussion of the health hazards of using these solvents.  A friend of
     mine is in the laboratory safety business, and ran off copies of the
     'Material Safety Data Sheets' (MSDS) for many of the common solvents.
     It's a bit tricky to cover everything, because some are known by several
     different names, and MSDS's from different sources don't list things in a 
     consistent manner.  I've attempted to consolidate this information into 
     something that covers the critical differences between the solvents, and 
     that is easy to understand for people like me who aren't safety experts 
     or chemists.

     I've listed these (roughly) in decreasing order of 'nastiness'.  It's
     difficult to do a precise ranking, because some solvents are greater
     risks depending on whether you touch it, breath it, drink it, or set it
     on fire.  If there is anything you like to use that you don't see here, 
     just call the manufacturer and ask for the MSDS on the product.  They 
     are required by law to send you one.  There are several key things I 
     would watch out for:

     1) How flammable is it?  Solvents are rated either highly flammable, 
        flammable, combustible, or non-flammable, depending on the flashpoint.
        I believe anything with a flashpoint below 100F is considered at least
        flammable.

     2) Check the Time Weighted Average exposure limit.  This is usually 
        listed in parts per million, or milligrams per cubic meter (mg/M*3).
        This will give a rough feel for how toxic the stuff is.

     3) Look for specific problems.  Can it be toxic if absorb through the
        skin?  Is it just an eye irritant, or will contact cause damage?

     Because all of these solvents dissolve grease and oil, at a minimum, they
     will leach the oils out of your skin.  With prolonged exposure, this can
     cause irritation and dermatitis.  Your senses are a good warning system.
     If a mere whiff of something makes your eyes water and your head spin,
     it's probably not too good for you.  Whatever you like to use, do so with 
     adequate ventilation, gloves, eye protection, and away from any source 
     of combustion.

     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Nitrobenzine: (AKA Essence of Mirbane, Mirbane oil)  I've included this
     because it used to be used in some gun cleaning solvents.  It was
     removed because of health risks.  Nasty stuff.

      Very toxic by inhalation, skin contact, or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Danger of cumulative effects, causes nervous system disorders
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 190F, 87C 
      Readily absorbed through skin, do not breath vapor.
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 1 part per million (5 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Kerosene: (AKA Coal Oil, Range Oil)  Easy to obtain.  This was my
     father's favorite all-round solvent.  Works well on bicycles chains.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 100F, 38C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 14 parts per million (100 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Lacquer Thinner: This is a mixture of a variety of chemicals, and will 
     vary with manufacturer.  Some of the components are pretty nasty, but
     information on the mixture is not very complete.  The brand I have a
     data sheet on contains: Isopropanol, n Butyl Acetate, Methanol, Acetone,
     VM&P Naptha, Toluene, and Hexane.  This is a particularly effective
     solvent, and works very well removing hardened grease and grime from old
     machine tools.

      Toxic by inhalation, minimal toxicity by ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Flammable, Flashpoint = -10F, -23C 
      The Worst component (Hexane) has a Time Weighted Average exposure limit
      of 50 parts per million, but it's percentage in the mixture is unknown
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Naptha: (AKA Lighter Fluid, Petroleum Ether)  This is one of my favorite
     cleaning solvents, because it doesn't attack most plastics or paint.
     It's great for removing adhesive from tape and labels.  Although it is
     listed as a skin irritant, it isn't toxic if you spill some on your
     hands.  

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Highly Flammable, Flashpoint = -57F, -49C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (400 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Paint Thinner: (AKA Mineral Spirits, Petroleum Naptha) A common solvent,
     readily available at most hardware stores.  It is considered non-
     irritating to eyes.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to respiratory system, slightly irritating to skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 111F, 44C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (400 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Turpentine: (AKA Spirit or Oil of Turpentine)  I never use this anymore,
     but it was THE standard paint brush cleaner before latex paints came
     out.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Can penetrate skin to produce systemic effects.  Can cause eye damage
      Prolonged exposure can cause allergenic sensitization.
      Combustible to Flammable, Flashpoint = 90-115F, 32-46C 
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (560 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Acetone: (AKA Methyl Ketone, Propanone, Pyroacetic Ether)  The one unique
     application I know of for acetone is that it dissolves cyanoacrylate
     glues (SuperGlue).  It will attack many plastics.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to respiratory system and skin
      Risk of serious damage to eyes
      Attacks liver and kidneys
      Flammable, Flashpoint = 1F, -17C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 200-1000 parts per million 
      (470-2400 mg/M*3) (Varies substantially from country to country)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Denatured Alcohol: (Denatured Ethanol)  This is ethyl alcohol with just
     enough 'denaturant' to make you violently ill if you try to make a 
     cocktail out of it.  Denaturants vary, but the most common one is a few
     percent methyl alcohol (methanol).  I couldn't find a MSDS on the
     'denatured' version, so the info below is from the ethanol MSDS.  The
     only major difference should be in toxicity by ingestion, which is the
     whole point of the denaturant.  Ethanol is a fairly mild solvent, and
     may require more patience and elbow grease than others.  On the other
     hand, it's pretty safe.  Water dissolves in it, so you can use it to dry
     off delicate items that have gotten wet, or have been washed in water
     first.  Ethanol will cleanly remove even the most fossilized protective
     paper from acrylic plastic (Plexiglass), if you let it soak overnight in
     a plastic bag.

      Somewhat toxic by ingestion (mostly because of denaturant)
      Excessive exposure to vapors can cause eye and respiratory irritation
      Flammable, Flashpoint = 50-55F, 10-13C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 1000 parts per million (1900 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Orange Oil: (AKA OptiClear & lots of other tradenames)  This is listed as
     a 'food oil distillate'.  It's a volatile liquid extracted from orange 
     peels, and smells like oranges.  The manufacture of 'OptiClear'
     recommends it as a replacement for 'toluene, xylene, or chlorinated
     hydrocarbons such as TCE' (Trichloroethylene).  It is biodegradable.
     This is the only type of solvent that is listed as GRAS (Generally
     Regarded as Safe).  

      Not considered toxic
      Can cause skin irritation
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 140F, 60C
      No exposure limit

     Before everyone floods me with email asking where you can get this
     stuff, 'OptiClear' is an optical grade solvent used at the lab where I
     work.  It's probably a bit more refined (and expensive) than what most
     people need.  The price info I have is very old, but lists a case of 
     four 1 gallon jugs for $86.  It's manufactured by:

      National Diagnostics, Inc.
      1013-1017 Kennedy Blvd.
      Manville, NJ  08835
      (201) 722-8600

     I have seen ads for other brands of orange based solvents, but haven't 
     ever bought any.  My local hardware stores don't seem to carry it.  If
     someone has a good source, I'd love to hear about it.

37.  What does "gage" (or "gauge") mean?

     Webster's seems to prefer "gauge", but Machinery's Ready Reference
     uses "gage" for sheet, and "gauge" for wire.  Strictly speaking,
     "gauge" is a measuring device, and "gage" a measurement system,
     but common usage has corrupted the distinction.

     An arbitrary assignment of numbers to size, used on sheet, wire,
     and many other things (tubing, shotgun bore, needles, and so on).
     Unfortunately there are so many different standards that using gage
     to specify a material is almost useless, and perhaps even dangerous.
     If in doubt, use decimals.

     For example, in U.S. gage, the standard for sheet metal is based
     on the weight of the metal, not on the thickness.  16-gage is listed
     as approximately .0625 inch thick and 40 ounces per square foot
     (the original standard was based on wrought iron at .2778 pounds per
     cubic inch; steel has almost entirely superseded wrought iron for
     sheet use, at .2833 pounds per cubic inch).  Smaller numbers refer
     to greater thickness.  There is no formula for converting gage to
     thickness or weight.

     Wire might be specified in American or Browne & Sharpe, Birmingham or
     Stubs, Washburn & Moen, Trenton Iron Co., Stubs' Steel, Imperial Wire
     gage, music wire gauge, or others.  In the US, I've commonly seen
     electrical wire in AWG (American Wire Gauge); even-numbered values
     are much more common than odd ones.  As an example, 12-gauge wire
     is .081" (AWG), .109" (Birmingham or Stubs), .105" (Washburn & Moen),
     .028" (music wire gauge).  In most cases a larger gauge means smaller
     wire, except music wire goes the other way around!

     If you need specific values for specific gages, many are listed in
     various references such as Machinery's Handbook.

     On September 20, 1994, Rowland Carson posted a nice list of most of
     the gauge systems in use worldwide:

      Alhoff & Muller Music Wire Gauge         music wire
      American Screw & Wire Co Music Wire Gauge    music wire, spring wire
      American Zinc Gauge                      zinc sheet
      ASA B32.1                                uncoated thin flat metals USA
      Birmingham Gauge                   BG    iron hoop & strip, steel sheet
      Birmingham Wire Gauge              BWG   iron & steel telephone wire
      Birmingham Wire Gauge for Silver & Gold      silver & gold
      Brown & Sharpe Wire Gauge          B & S non-ferrous sheet & strip
      Brunton Music Wire Gauge                 music wire
      Card Wire Gauge                    CWG   fibre yarns
      Continental Zinc Gauge                   sheet & strip
      English Music Wire Gauge                 music wire
      English Zinc Wire Gauge                  zinc sheet
      Felten & Guilleame Music Wire Gauge      music wire
      German Sheet Gauge                       sheet metal
      Instrument Wire Gauge                    instrument wire
      ISO Metric Preferred Series (R388)       all applications
      Junge de Paris                           copper wires
      Lancashire Pinion Wire Gauge       LPG   cast steel drill rods
      Mathieson & Hegeler Gauge          M & H zinc sheet
      Millimetre Wire Gauge                    steel wire
      National Wire Gauge                NWG   steel wire
      Poehlimann Music Wire Gauge              music wire
      Printers Wire Gauge                      printers wire
      Roebling Wire Gauge                      steel wire
      Sewing & Darning Needle Series           sewing & darning needles
      Standard Wire Gauge                SWG   wire & strip, tube thickness
      Stitching Wire Gauge
      Stubs Iron WIre Gauge                    iron wire
      Stubs Steel Wire Gauge                   steel drill rod
      Tinplate                                 finished tinplate
      Twist Drill & Steel Wire Gauge           drill rod
      US Galvanised Sheet Gauge          GSG   galvanised sheet
      US Manufacturers' Standard Gauge   MSG   iron & steel sheets & plates
      US Standard Gauge                  USG   stainless steel
      US Steel Wire Gauge                USSWG steel wire
      Washburn & Moen Gauge              WG    steel wire
      Warrington Wire Gauge                    steel wire
      Yorkshire Wire Gauge                     steel wire

38.  Leveling a lathe

     Most people agree that a lathe should be properly leveled to get the
     best accuracy.  This seems to be true of large lathes more than small
     ones even if they are extremely heavy.  One method is to use a precision
     level, though Charlie Greenman (greenmana@delphi.com) pointed out
     the following method (late January 1995) which was also written
     up in August 1995's Projects In Metal by Steve Wellcome:
     -----
     I'll talk about this one more time, as it's worth it and you can go truly
     crazy doing lathe alignment with a level unless it's a new or totally
     unworn lathe bed AND the top of the inverted V's (which do not contact
     anything) are perfect.  The saddle (on a V-bed lathe) does not touch the
     top of the V's (or it had better not).  And it is the top of those V's
     that you are using to to align the bed.  It is also the top of the V's on
     which things large and small fall.  So if you have a new lathe bed then
     fine, spend $100 or so, spend a month making one, or borrow an alignment
     level and have at it.  Or you can depend on simple geometry -- the fact
     that anything held in a chuck in the headstock HAS to revolve about the
     axis of the headstock spindle, and use that technique to align the lathe
     bed...

     A good setup level indicates .0005"/foot and they are expensive.
 
     You can set up your lathe this way.  This works I've done it.  You have
     to put some means of adjusting the feet of the lathe bed that you can
     adjust.  The last chapter of Tubal Cain's Workholding in the Lathe has a
     beautiful description of this.  Get the lathe fairly level and somewhat
     tightened down.  Get a good round rod that is very round and the same
     diameter end to end.  A nontrashed car strut will work.  Put the rod in
     the 3-jaw chuck.  Get something like the Starrett last word and put it on
     it's magbase and the magbase on the compound.  Rotate the rod in the
     3-jaw and adjust the compound using the cross-slide such that the swing
     on the dial exactly straddles the 0.  Say there is 6thou total runout at
     the chuck. You'd want 3thou on each side of the 0.
 
     Run the carriage down toward the tailstock and again rotate the bar.  The
     actual runout you get is not important.  What is important is that the
     reading on both sides of the 0 is the same.  If there's 20 thou total
     runout, you'd want 10 thou on each side of the 0.  If it is say -8 and
     plus 12 that means that the right front leg (tailstock end, nearest you)
     is high.  Lower it a bit.  Go back to the headstock and again set the dti
     so that it straddles the 0, move to the tailstock end of the bar and check
     it again.  When you get it such that the magnitude straddles the 0 at the
     chuck end of the rod (the carriage as close to the headstock as you can
     get it) and it straddles the 0 at the tailstock end, you've aligned the
     lathe bed.  Now, here's the pisser.  You can see, quite literally, how
     much (if any) wear there is in the bed by checking the rod along the way.
     You will probably find that there is some wear up near the headstock.
     And you can see how much wear there is by seeing the difference in the
     straddle on the dti.  If you have a .0001 dti, all the better.
 
     What is important on the rod is that it is round and smooth and the same
     diameter. It does not matter if it is straight as you know damned well
     that it's going to be swinging around the headstock axis no matter how
     bent!  The only problem with a really bent rod is the runout might go
     beyond the range of your dti.  You might want to read this a couple of
     times and think about it before doing it. :-)   This is not originial
     with me (I'm not smart enough).  It is, I believe, original with Arthur
     Gaucher, a retired tool and die maker who has forgotten more about this
     stuff than I shall ever know.
     ...
     I had a pretty whacked Logan lathe bed and this technique told me how
     whacked it was and where.  You can jack up the right front leg (the near
     side of the tailstock end) to compensate for one hell of a lot of bed
     wear but unhappily the tailstock will no longer be anywhere near aligned
     with the headstock!  So it won't really fix anything, but it will tell
     you the truth about your lathe bed.  And itt will allow you to 'average'
     the error such that you minimize the problem of a *little* bed wear
     without throwing the tailstock out by much.

39.  Wind Chimes

     From time to time people ask how to make wind chimes, especially
     how to calculate the lengths of the tubes/rods.  There is no precise
     answer to this question!  Let's discuss it.

     There was an article in Projects In Metal, December 1991,
     "Eight-tube Wind Chimes" by Thomas F. Howard.  This is probably also
     reprinted in one of the "Metalworking" books by Village Press that
     condense issues of the magazine.  I'll refer to this article in a
     few places simply as "Howard".

     First, there are lots of aspects of making one, other than how long
     to cut the chimes.  How many chimes?  What kind of chord do you want
     (major, minor, pentatonic, etc.).  How should you arrange them?
     How big should the clapper be?

     First we'll discuss the chimes themselves, and address material and
     length.

     Different materials react in different ways.  The tone will depend on
     the material (steel, aluminum, brass, the exact alloy, heat treatment
     and so on), whether you are using a solid cylinder or a tube, and if
     a tube, the wall thickness.  It may also depend on the hanging method,
     and the tone quality will depend on how you strike a tube (with a hard
     object or a soft one, for example).  Howard suggests hardwoods.

     Note that with a whistle, such as an organ pipe, the pitch is determined
     primarily by the length of the air column.  It is the air that vibrates.
     The pipe material helps determine the "timbre" or "voice" of the pipe,
     but the air column determines the pitch.  In a wind chime, the pipe
     itself is being struck and the air column has little to do with things
     (especially if the pipe is a solid cylinder!).

     Generally you will need to cut by trial and error, using a piano or
     some other reference if you want to get close.  You can also do it
     by ear if you're either good or tolerant.  But we can help you get close.

     If a chime is cut in half, the new tone will be *four* times the
     frequency, or two octaves up in pitch.  To progress from one standard
     musical note to the next, each note is different in frequency by the
     twelfth root of 2, or about 1.059463.  For chimes, we need the square
     root of this number, which is about 1.0293.  In other words, if our
     "reference" chime is 1 foot long, the next lower note in the
     equal-tempered scale would be 1.0293 feet or 1 foot and .3516 inches or
     close to 1 foot, 23/64 inches.  Many people can detect notes out of tune
     (relative to another) by a few percent of one note.  So, cutting the
     chimes to proper length is important.

     One formula was presented in a book, "Music, Physics and Engineering"
     by Olsen, for a tube, free at both ends:

         f=1.133 pi K v / (l^2)

         K=sqrt(a^2 + ai^2) / 2 
         {radius of gyration of a hollow circular cylinder}

     Here pi=3.14159..., f is frequency (in Hz), l is length (in cm) and v is
     the velocity of sound in the material of the tube wall (eg Aluminium is
     5.1E5 cm/s).  Note that K is different for different cross-sections
     (I think it is K=a/2 for a solid circular bar). a and ai are the outer
     and inner radius of the tube (in cm). 

     See also "Basic Acoustics" by Donald E. Hall, Harper & Row, NY, 1987.
     This book points out that for two bars being identical except in their
     lengths, their frequencies are related as:

             f1 / f2  =  (L1 / L2)^2

     There are several different musical scales to choose from.  In the Western
     world, scales revolve around 12 equally spaced tones (equal tempered) but
     most music uses only 8 of the twelve.  Which 8?  This determines whether
     the scale is "major" or "minor" (or one of several less common scales).
     Another scale for wind chimes is the pentatonic scale (5 tones) used by
     eastern music.  The advantage here is that no combination of pentatonic
     notes is considered dissonant (displeasing).

     Construction details:  The chimes and clapper should be spaced so the
     clapper will hit either one chime, or two chimes, and no more.  The order
     of the chimes is important for two reasons:  It helps keep the weights
     distributed so the whole thing does not tilt, and it ensures that any
     pair of chimes will sound nice when struck together.

     OK, so much for the theory.  Let's take a look at suggested lengths,
     courtesy of Howard:

       16 7/8, 17 3/8, 18 7/16, 19 1/2, 20 3/4, 21 3/8, 22 3/4, 224 1/8.
       Eight chimes.  Viewed from the top, he shows a hanging order starting
       at the 12:00 position of chime 1, 5, 2, 6, 3, 7, 4, and 8.  For 1/2"
       OD tubing with a 2-inch clapper, the chimes are placed on a 4.5-inch
       diameter.  These lengths are close to theory for a major chord, but
       rounded to the nearest 16th.

       16 5/8, 17 5/8, 19 1/4, 20 7/16, 21 5/8, 23 3/4.
       This is a six-chimer, hung with the same spacing as the one above
       but leaving two gaps: (blank), 1, 4, 2, (blank), 5, 3, and 6.

     Another consideration is how/where to hang each chime.  It has been
     reported that hanging them .2242xlength from the end works well because
     this is a node point of the fundamental frequency (in other words, it
     wiggles less there!).  If you hang them using nylon fishing line be
     certain to deburr the hole and smooth it, and don't place anything
     valuable under it (like a glass table)!.  Also note the actual distance
     varies for each chime.

     On the topic of materials, soft metals such as copper will generate "soft"
     tones, like hitting a bottle with a rubber mallet.  Hard metals like
     steels or certain aluminum alloys giver a sharper tone, like hitting a
     bottle with a ball peen hammer (not including breakage).  Sharper tones
     seem to be common on very small chimes (a few inches to maybe 6 inches)
     which also seem to use solid rods. Softer tones are common on large ones
     (a foot or more).  Also, larger OD is supposed to yield softer tones
     and longer-lasting tones.

     Cutting the chimes requires some thought, especially if you make a few
     hundred.  Some suggest a chop saw with an abrasive blade, to get a better
     finish than you'd achieve with a toothed blade.  Remember that aluminum
     dust is flammable and burns very hot, so don't let it accumulate.  Use
     a blade that is compatible with what you're cutting.

     Some people like to use electrical conduit for the chimes.  Other suggest
     seamless "chro-mo" 4130 bicycle frame tubing, while copper water pipe also
     seems useful.  Possibly plugging one end or both will alter the sound but
     I'm not sure how at this point.


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:53:34 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <pevans.330.31D7FFF0@mindlink.bc.ca>, pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans) writes:
>In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
>
>>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?
>>I've tried the following to clean the spots:
>>   1) Shaklee Basic-H: nothing.
>>   2) Hand cleaner: slight lightening.
>>   3) Lighter fluid: nothing.
>>   4) Kerosene: nothing.
>>   5) Bleach mixed with baking soda (DiDi 7 substitute): nothing
>>   6) Lacquer thinner: nothing.
>>   7) Full wash cycle: nothing.
>>Can these spots ever be cleaned?
>>   Thank you...Chet Roberts (ed510@cleveland.freenet.edu)
>>P.S.: Yes, I know it was stupid...but I've done even dumber
>>stuff.... ; )
>
>Probably difficult to get, but carbon tetrachloride might be worth trying;  
>failing that, I didn't see acetone (as such) on your list.

Look out!  If the shirt is synthetic at all, acetone will dissolve it.  *Don't*
ask how I know.  (That was a good tie, too.  I no longer wear good 
clothes to work.)

Buy a new shirt?  (just a thought...)


===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Software
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:35:38 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <09960601070625.OUI57.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <4r8dev$hic@stratus.skypoint.net>
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In article <4r8dev$hic@stratus.skypoint.net>, From daleh@skypoint.com 
(Dale A. Hagert), the following was written:
> I am looking for the site were I can get Mr Machinist.

I know it's available, but not sure where. I got it off Compuserve, and
it's real handy.  Try a search with AltaVista

http://www.altavista.digital.com/
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:46:10 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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In article <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com>, From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com 
(Russ Kepler), the following was written:
> I cut a lot of internal threads using taps, but also have cause to
> single point cut threads when it's not practical to use a tap, such
> as a 1.5"x8tpi thread for my lathe spindle.  Lots of time a modeler
> has more time than money, so something like this is an easy call.
> 
> Now if inside threading inserts and holders were just a bit
> cheaper...  

Yep, just had a similar discussion with our buddy Pete Albrecht.  He was
in need of a 1"-12 threaded hole in a piece of his lathe, but he needed
the lathe to put the thread in the piece of his lathe etc...

It turns out, I'm going to do it for him at a small charge.  But then, I
have a mill available, AND the tap.

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From bedii@nwlink.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bedii@nwlink.com (Bruce Durocher II)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 2 Jul 1996 04:41:20 GMT
Organization: Northwest Link
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Boris Beizer (BBeizer@gnn.com) wrote:

: >    saying pulsejets have excellent performance, it was *pressure* jets I was
: >    refering to.
: >    Pressure jets, as designed by Eugene M. Gluhareff, run *only* on propane,
: >    have no moving parts, and have both the best thrust to weight ratio and 
: >    the best specific fuel consumption of *any* jet engine short of a full-
: >    sized turbofanjet.

: What's a "pressure jet."  Educate us.  Never heard of that kind of engine. 
: It's not a pulse jet, as you said.  And obviously not a ramjet.  If it has
: no moving parts, what does the compression?  Or does this run at atmospheric
: pressures?  I assume that when you say "runs only on propane" you mean as a 
: fuel and presumably the oxygen comes from air.  So where's the compressor?
: Without a compressor of some kind (moving parts or no) it will have to violate
: some laws of physics to get decent thrust--or as Scotty say's "I can nae break
: the Laws of Physics, Cap'n."

	The Gluhareff "pressure jet" engines (I have the blueprints for 
the type used in the flying platform built in the Seattle area in the 
80's, but my blueprints for the ones Gluhareff used in his series of 
backpack helicopters were destroyed when I lent them to a friend who died 
suddenly) are vaguely reminiscent of pulse-jet engines.  
	What Gluhareff did was to run a fuel line from a propane tank
through the combustion chamber so that the liquid propane would be changed
to vapor and be propelled by thermal expansion through a series of
precisely designed funnels to get the proper air/fuel ratio for the
combustion chamber.  You can find several articles on the engine in
Mechanics Illustrated and Science & Mechanics magazine in the late 60's
and early 70's--I remember one where he mounted one on his son's go-kart. 
Don't know that the kid ever had the balls to open it up to the suspected
150mph, but a gent mounted two on a higher-tech go-kart and used to race
dragsters with it. 
	They've been used in helicopters and such-like, and at least one 
maniac mounted a pair on a BD-5.  Don't know that he ever flew it, 
unfortunately.  I talked to Gluhareff over the phone some years ago for 
ten minutes or so before I bought the helicopter plans, as I wanted to 
know about the stability of those old designs.  I remember he said "I let 
both my sons fly them in the tests, and they're not dead yet!"


From felice@pioneer.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 02:20:07 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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Just get used to looking like a filthy biker mechanic trashpicking
derelict, I have and my life is simplified, less showers and
laundry means more time to machine. My wife still won't let
me re-designate the living room as shop space though.


In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) 
writes:>From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
>Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
>Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:04:38 GMT

>In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
>Chester A. Roberts, Jr. <ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu> wrote:
>>
>>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?

>I've done that too, usually thinking that it's just a quick turning,
>no time to get oil on myself and conveniently forgetting that I'd
>added oil to the 3 jaw after the previous use, and blow a $50 shirt
>in no time.  

>Last time this happened (a couple weeks ago) I simply hit the shirt
>with a couple of prewash cleaners: Shout and Chlorox Stain-Out. 
>After the first liberal application I left it soaking for 10-15
>minutes, then washed on a cold-cold setting.  That didn't get it all,
>so I used the Chlorox stuff and a regular wash setting, and now I
>can't identify the shirt in the closet, so it must've cleaned up OK.

>Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
>likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
>itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.




From BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz Sun Jul  7 15:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photoetching
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 19:42:31 GMT
Organization: AgResearch, Lincoln
Lines: 28
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In article <31D16362.40F7@worldnet.att.net>,
   Patrick Giordani <PGiordani@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I am interested in trying my hand at photoetching for jewelry 
>fabrication, but have absoluely no idea how to go about doing it or how 
>to make the equiptment. If anybody has some suggestions, please email me 
>at lddemi@aol.com.
>
>Thank you 
>
>Patrick Giordani

This technique is popular with the model railway fraternity.  Post to 
rec.model.railroads.  Randy Gordon-Gilmour seems to be the expert on doing 
this at home.  His methods with pics are archived on the 2mm scale association 
webpage run by Nigel Cliffe (I think).  Sorry I do not have the addresses to 
hand.

Hope this helps

Lawrence

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: The above is a personal opinion and does not reflect the
            official view of AgResearch Ltd.
----------------------------------------------------------------------



From jhrisoulas@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 1 Jul 1996 16:45:41 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 27
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

This is a term that I haven't heard in many, many years.  There are so
many "old terms" that are very confusing to the modern metalworker...Some
of them are still in use, but most have fallen by the wayside...

The term "silver steel" was used to describe a hardenable steel..a "tool
steel" or a higher carbon steel...from the mild steel, wrought ieons in
use at the time...

There are other terms that are just as old and still in use today such as
:
Plow Share Steel (usually 1060)
Improved Plow Share Steel (usually 1075)
Extra Improved Plow Share Steel (1084)
and Extra Extra Improved Plow Share Steel (1095)

Then there is the old Crucible Steels (this was used to differentiate
between the old wrought bloomery steels and the "newer" Bessemer process
steels) as well as the "Fluid Cast" steels (same thing as the Crucible
Steels)..

Simply there are far too many of thse old names that it can and often does
get quite confucing..

Oh well, that is what makes life interesting doesn't it?

JP Hrisoulas.



From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 1 Jul 1996 13:55:57 -0700
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	--It's Tide or nothing. If it's Moly-Dee that splattered on the 
shirt, forget it: nothing will get *that* out...
	--Ialways thot it would be cool to have a shirt printed with a 
big vertical splatter that said "yes, I operate a lathe; how did you 
guess?" and another for a mill with a horiz. splatter.... 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Words are nothing 	
	COMING SOON		:	Actions are everything...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: B-A hardware
Date: 1 Jul 1996 13:59:15 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 8
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	--Try Coles Power Models in Ventura, CA. Phone: (805) 643-7065. 
Tell them Ed Haas and White Dog said "Hello" ;-)
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Words are nothing 	
	COMING SOON		:	Actions are everything...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flux for cerro alloys?
Date: 1 Jul 1996 13:51:22 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4r9doa$182@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <31D76031.2764@direct.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

	--Do you want a flux or a mould release? You might try spraying 
to mould with something like Pam to keep it from sticking. Another great 
stuff is this water-based green glop used by surfboard and fiberglas boat 
makers. Can't think of the name, but it's neat stuff...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Words are nothing 	
	COMING SOON		:	Actions are everything...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!news.PBI.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:04:38 GMT
Lines: 24

In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
Chester A. Roberts, Jr. <ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu> wrote:
>
>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?

I've done that too, usually thinking that it's just a quick turning,
no time to get oil on myself and conveniently forgetting that I'd
added oil to the 3 jaw after the previous use, and blow a $50 shirt
in no time.  

Last time this happened (a couple weeks ago) I simply hit the shirt
with a couple of prewash cleaners: Shout and Chlorox Stain-Out. 
After the first liberal application I left it soaking for 10-15
minutes, then washed on a cold-cold setting.  That didn't get it all,
so I used the Chlorox stuff and a regular wash setting, and now I
can't identify the shirt in the closet, so it must've cleaned up OK.

Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.



From stas@best.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news1.best.com!nntp1.best.com!shellx.best.com!not-for-mail
From: stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: 1 Jul 1996 14:48:12 -0700
Organization: BEST Internet Communications
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4r9h2s$l36@shellx.best.com>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: shellx.best.com

In article <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
ErnieLeim <ernieleim@aol.com> wrote:
[]
>
>On a related note, I would recommend using either Inconnel or Stainless
>steel as filler for the TIG weld. I almost never use regular steel filler
>anymore. I use Inconnel 82 and 316L SS for most of my mild steel welds.


I recall being warned about welding with/to stainless steel, the reason
being the possibility of forming nickel carbide inclusions.

Stan


From djonnet@chpl.mindspring.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: "D. H. Johnson" <djonnet@chpl.mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: making molds with spray metals
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 18:13:21 +0100
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <31D80731.4502@chpl.mindspring.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: user-168-121-93-122.dialup.mindspring.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)

would like  info on how to make reproduction molds from hand 
built originals.  specifically take metal molds from carved 
leather to use to print onto blank leather.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!news.PBI.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbx!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Good brands of small taps and dies
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <DtvvtC.BrE@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r89jm$pcd@hobyah.cc.uq.oz.au>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:32:00 GMT
Lines: 15

In article <4r89jm$pcd@hobyah.cc.uq.oz.au>,
Russell Horswood <zzsbtafe@mailbox.uq.edu.au> wrote:
>I'm coming to the U.S.A. later in the year and I need to find out which 
>are good brands of small taps and dies. The sizes needed are 0-12 in 
>U.N.F. and U.N.C. As I'm from Australia I don't know which are America's 
>best brands. Any advice will be appeciated.  Thanks in advance. 

>From  one Russ to another (us Russ' have to stick together) I'd
suggest a Greenfield set B8.  This would give you 0-80, 1-72, 2-56,
3-48, 4-40, 6-32, 8-32 and 10-24 with HSS taps and carbon dies, a tap
holder and a die holder.  This is a mix of NC and NF, but the more
common sizes used.  I've had good luck with Greenfield taps, not much
experience with their carbon dies.  This set would run you $205 from
MSC.



From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 1 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160250.23904@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:02:50 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 1
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:02:51 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 821

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 1 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

The questions being answered in part 1:

0.  Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup?
1.  The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter.
2.  Network resources (other lists, vendors, etc.)
3.  What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking?

The questions being answered in part 2:

4.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?
5.  Where do I buy a machine?
6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?
7.  Where might one take classes or get instruction?
8.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?
9.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?
10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?
11. How do I harden/temper metal?

The questions being answered in part 3:

12  How do I wire up this strange motor?
13. How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
14. How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
15. Some safety reminders.
16. How do I drill round holes?
17. What's TIG and MIG?
18. MIG welding technique.

The questions being answered in part 4:

19. Which MIG welder should I buy?
20. Books on welding.
21. Soldering/brazing topics.
22. What are bolt grades?
23. What is XYZ made of?
24. How do I build a furnace or forge?

The questions being answered in part 5:

25. What is Damascus steel?
26. How do I repair/replace this old leather belt?
27. Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill?
28. What is involved in building a steam engine?
29. How do I anodize aluminum?

The questions being answered in part 6:

30. Rust!  How do I deal with rust?
31. Are there any machinery museums?

The questions being answered in part 7

32. How do I cut metal?
33. What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?
34. What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?
35. What is Electric Discharge Machining (EDM)?

The questions being answered in part 8

36. Solvent safety
37. What does "gage" (or "gauge") mean?
38. Leveling a lathe.
39. Wind Chimes

The questions being answered in part 9

40. Patinas
41. Removing broken taps
42. Machining Plastic

The question being answered in parts 10 and 11

99. Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers
    (OK, so I got tired of re-numbering it every time a new
    question was added!)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

0.  Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup?

    This FAQ is also available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu,
    in the METAL directory.  I also hope to someday get it posted to
    news.answers and into rtfm.mit.edu, which is where many groups'
    FAQs are kept.

    I also keep an "informal" archive of the newsgroup on plains.uwyo.edu,
    also in the METAL directory.  It's informal in that I only update it
    from time to time, not continuously.

    Plains.uwyo.edu is usually down early Sunday and Monday
    mornings, so if ftp fails then, just try it again later.

1.  The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter.

    A tiny bit of history:  there existed a group trial.rec.metalworking,
    but few sites pick up the "trial" feed.  Also, the trial method of
    group creation sort of died of neglect, so this group
    (rec.crafts.metalworking) was created to take its place and become
    an official wide-spread group.

    Charter
    -------

    Charter -- REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING

    The USENET newsgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking, is a newsgroup which
    discusses various aspects of working with metal, such as (but not
    limited to):

      machining, as on a lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc.;
      numerical control of such machines;
      welding, whether by gas, arc, mig, tig, thermite, or other methods;
      Metal joining, whether welding, brazing, soldering, riveting,
        screwing, folding, etc.  (this section was added during the discussion)
      casting various metals by various methods;
      hardening/tempering various metals;
      blacksmithing/forging;
      spinning and hammer work;
      sheet metal work;
      jewelry-making;
      purchasing and/or reconditioning metalworking tools and machinery;
      interesting projects;
      books on metal technologies and history;

    Example areas of interest:

      knife/sword making;
      automotive repair;
      steam engine (model/scale, though full-sized discussions are welcome!);
      art work, such as bronze castings and sculptures;
      gunsmithing;
      toolmaking, such as for woodworking, further metalworking, etc.;

    While the bulk of the discussion will probably be directed towards
    small-scale "home" shops, industrial/production discussions are also
    quite welcome.


2.  Network resources (other lists, vendors, etc.)

    There are several other metalworking-related resources on the Internet,
    such as mailing lists and WWW pages. Here are a few we are aware of.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    So the first one I list isn't even metalworking related!
    A handy reference available in most libraries is the Thomas Register,
    which lists many manufacturers and sellers of "stuff".
    They currently have an on-line presence on the World Wide Web:
    http://www.thomasregister.com

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/
    Metal Web News "A Virtual Newsletter for the Online Metal Enthusiasts"

    An effort by William Gray and others to present a metalworking newsletter.
    Contributions are welcome.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) mailing list was created in mid-May
    1996.  Here is part of their announcement:

    A new mailing list for the discussion of any CAM related software, hardware,
    questions, procedures, methods, terminology, etc. has been created and
    is now in operation.  Topics could include, for example, software such as
    Camax, Mastercam, CimLinc, Cisigraph, SurfCam, etc, or subjects such
    as G-godes, APT source, different cutting methods and styles, or even
    actual CNC related topics.

    To subscribe to this list, send mail to "majordomo@umcc.umich.edu" with:

    subscribe cam

    in the body of the mail by itself.  The subject of the mail is ignored.
    This will subscribe you to the per message version of the list.  This means
    that for every message the list receives, you will receive one piece of 
    mail.  If there are 10 submissions to the list in one day, you get 10 pieces
    of mail.

    There is also a digest version available.  To subscribe to the digest
    version, send mail to "majordomo@umcc.umich.edu" with:

    subscribe cam-digest

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Gardner Publications, publisher of the magazines Modern Machine Shop,
    Production, and Products Finishing, has a web page:

    http://www.gardnerweb.com/

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Metal casting:

       http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
       http://soho.ios.com/~jfisch

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    If you are interested in clocks/watches, there is a CLOCKS mailing list.
    Send mail to listserv@listserv.syr.edu, containing the command
    "SUBSCRIBE CLOCKS your name".

    There is also a clock presence on the World Wide Web (WWW):
      http://glen-ellyn.iit.edu/~clocks/clocks/clocks.html

    A similar newsgroup is alt.horology.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Steam Engines: http://mindlink.net/Ron_Stewart/livsteam.html
                   http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/livestm.html
                   http:////edge.edge.net/~vrbass/steamfaq.htm

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    On the scientific side, there's sci.engr.metallurgy.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    There is also a Usenet newsgroup rec.woodworking that may be of
    interest to people who read rec.crafts.metalworking.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    WWW (World-Wide-Web) users may be interested in Enrique Vega's
    efforts which he calls ArtMetal.  This includes a mailing list
    and a Home Page of:

      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html

    Enrique can be reached at evega@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net.

    See also the Prince Edward Island Crafts Council (Canadian):

      http://www.crafts-council.pe.ca

    A crafts fair guide is at:

      http://www.teleport.com/~paulec/FAIRGUIDE/CRAFTLST.HTML

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A Usenet newsgroup was created around March of 1994, called
    rec.crafts.jewelry.  Some of the questions on rec.crafts.metalworking
    have been jewelry related, such as casting small pieces; these might
    be more appropriate on the new group, or at least you might get more
    answers!

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A newsgroup called rec.knives was created in September 1995.

    A mailing list for knifemakers was created in early 1995:

       Such a list is now available, and may be
       joined by sending mail to majordomo@basis.com containing a line
       "subscribe knife-list".  Following is the announce text for the list:

        The purpose of this mail list is to be a forum where knife makers and
        bladesmiths discus technical, artistic, political, and business ideas
        related to the field of custom and handmade cutlery.

        Knife fighting techniques and martial arts are not part of the
        discussion, except where it relates to an actual knife design.

        In short, this mailing list is for knife makers, sword makers,
        bladesmiths, and serious collectors of custom and handmade cutlery.

    An older mailing list for knifemakers, collectors, and people interested
    in edged-weaponry martial arts and techniques is the EDGE mailing list.
    Requests to be added to this list should be sent to:

      EDGE-owner@HICOM.LUT.AC.UK

    Submissions to the list itself should be sent to:

      EDGE@hicom.lut.ac.uk

    Topics on this list have ranged across topics like discussions of the
    types of steels used in knives, and why select one over another; the
    qualities and selection of different types of pocket tools [such as the
    Gerber Multi-Plier, the Leatherman, the SOG Toolclip, etc.]; current
    sales on knives from mail-order or discount-house sources; why Japanese
    swords are made the way they are/were, and how to take care of such a
    sword; selecting modern reproduction swords for martial-arts purposes;
    and many other edged-weapon and edged-tool subjects.  However, lately
    (April 1995) it has been heard that the list is largely dead and
    unresponsive.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Silversmithing (commercial): http://www.gold.net/users/dy93/.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The "industry", whatever that may be, has a WWW home page as well as
    a Telnet address, respectively:

       http://www.industry.net
       industry.net

    Then there's the manufacturer's Information Network:

       http://mfginfo.com/home.htm

    Metal finishing (electroplating, anodizing, galvanizing, etc.):

       http://www.finishing.com
       http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html

    METAL Machining and Fabrication:

        http://www.mmf.com/metal

    Used Equipment Network (UEN), WWW or Telnet respectively:

       http://www.hsix.com
       buyused.hsix.com

    The Global Recycling Network deals with used machines and tools:

       http://grn.com/grn/

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Book sellers:

       Powell's Technical Books (new and used) can be reached at
       http://www.technical.powells.portland.or.us, or you can
       get more info by sending blank e-mail to
       ping@technical.powells.portland.or.us.  More info in the vendor list.

       Amazon.com claims one million titles, at http://www.amazon.com.

       Book Stacks Unlimited can be reached via telnet to books.com,
       or (216) 861-0469, or http://melville.books.com/scripts/main.exe?
       or http://www.books.com.

3.  What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking?

    Note that this is not a complete list.  If you are looking for books on
    anodizing, there is a separate FAQ section that deals with that topic
    and lists several books.

   - How to Run a Lathe

     This book is available from South Bend distributors,
     such as Blue Ridge, and/or Lindsay.  It was originally printed
     in 1914 and last updated in 1966, I believe.

   - Advanced Machine Work by Robert H. Smith (1925).   This book
     is not as "advanced" as the title might indicate, but assumes
     that you are not a total beginner.   Available from Lindsay
     Publications (Cat. No 4236, $27.50, hardcover).

   - Machine Tool Operation, Vol. 1 & 2, by Henry Burghardt,
     Aaron Axelrod & James Anderson. These books were for many years
     the standard text in trade schools and technical colleges.  Volume
     one covers the basics: safety, measuring, bench work, drill press,
     lathe and forge.  Volume two covers: shaper, planer, milling
     machine, grinding, hydraulics, band saw, metallurgy, and
     cutting fluids.  Your best source for these is a used book
     store or a technical school library.   They overlap much of
     "Advanced Machine Work", but neither is a complete substitute
     for the other.

   - Materials Handbook by George S. Brady (McGraw-Hill Book Co.)
     "An encyclopedia for purchasing managers, engineers, executives,
     and foremen".  Essentially, it gives an "executive summary" of
     virtually every material that is valuable in commerce.   For
     instance, there is a two-page entry for "Die Steels".  It is not
     aimed at the scientist or engineer;  it is aimed at the person
     who needs to quickly understand the important characteristics
     and economics of industrial materials without involvement
     in details.  It does cover a lot of non-metal materials as well.

   - Machine-Tool Work, by William P Turner and Halsey F Owen.
     1932 and 1945 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have
     a copy, though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Moderately good text, very good diagrams and pictures, especially
     of huge special-purpose machines like railroad wheel grinders.
     Suffers a bit from age, and seems intended for large industrial
     shops, but a good read if you find it.

   - Machine Shop Theory and Practice, by Albert M Wagener and Harlan R Arthur.
     1941 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have a copy,
     though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Fairly good text, more specific techniques than the Turner/Owen book.
     Suffers a bit from age, but still a nice instructional book.

   - Lathe Operations, by Richard R. Kibbe.
     1985, ISBN 0-471-89023-5.
     Adapted from materials originally prepared by the Engineering Industry
     Training Board of Great Britain.  Also in the same series: Milling
     Machine Operations, and Grinding Machine Operations.

     A step-by-step text with about 2 photos and lots of simple but
     usually-clear drawings.  Shows how to do most any common lathe
     operation (and a few uncommon ones) in as few words as possible.

     Check page 90 for what seems to be a man with two right hands.

  -  Machine Tool Practices, by Kibbe,Neely, Meyer and White.
     It's the first year machine shop text used by some community colleges.

   - The Making of Tools, by Alexander G Weygers
     Prentice Hall Press, 1973, ISBN 0-671-60924-6.
     A modern book about doing things the old way.  How the artist/craftsperson
     can design, make, sharpen and temper tools.  May be available from
     Centaur Forge.

   - Machinery's Handbook.
     A standard reference book for machinists, available from most
     distributors of machines or tools.

   - Clockmaking & Modelmaking; tools and techniques
     by W.R. Smith

     Mr. Smith has published other books on clockmaking, but this one
     covers more than just clocks, and is thus of interest to more than
     just clock-makers.  This is a collection of articles from the
     British Horological Journal, Timecraft, Model Engineer, and
     Horological Times.  The articles have been updated and expanded
     for inclusion in this 112-page coil-bound book.

     For a complete review, see HSM Jan/Feb 1992, page 14.

     Available from Gateway Clocks (see names/addresses section),
     $35 post-paid within USA (overseas buyers add $5 for postage).

   - Elmer's Engines, by Elmer Verberg,
     available from Modeltec magazine.
     Has many very nice, and fairly easy to build stationary steam engines.

   - Model Locomotive and Marine Boilers
     [Argus Press, 1988, ISBN 0-85242-923-1]

     by Martin Evans (well known in the Model Engineering field, at least in
     Great Britain)

   - Model Boilers & Boilermaking
     by K.N.Harris, published 1971

     Possibly available from Argus.

   - The Shop Wisdom of Frank McLean,
     available from Village Press.

     Lots of good ideas, and common sense approaches, and the few pages
     about inspecting used machines is worth its weight in gold for first
     time buyers.

   - THE MACHINIST'S BEDSIDE READER
     Guy Lautard
     2570 Rosebery Avenue
     West Vancouver, B.C., Canada V7V 2Z9

     (Some of Guy's books are also available from other suppliers, such as MSC)

     Contains: Working drawings and detailed instructions for making 15
     useful and practical machinists tools and lathe accessories; dozens of
     hints, tips and tricks to help get things done faster, easier and
     better in your shop; a collection of 2 dozen machine shop anecdotes;
     2 highly readable machinists short stories.
     Projects include: a sharpening jig for drill from 1/8 to #60, a
     swiveling base for a 2" Wilton vise, a graduated handwheel for
     the lathe leadscrew.........and many more

     THE MACHINIST'S SECOND BEDSIDE READER
     Similar in format to the first book; projects include: a small
     pantograph engraving machine, a tool maker's block, poor man's
     jig borer and a kerosene-burning blowtorch....... also a short
     story titled "The Bullseye Mixture" which details the method for
     carbon pack color casehardening.

     THE MACHINIST'S THIRD BEDSIDE READER
     Some of the projects/info: color casehardening, a co-ax indicator,
     a collet chuck system, a deluxe overhaul of a keyless drill chuck,
     sharpening tools, sandblasting, setting up work on a faceplate,
     taper turning, knurling flat surfaces, and more.

     "A Treatise on Oiling Machine Tools"
     Very small (25 pages), very costly ($7.95), and not much useful
     information according to Tom Walter.  One useful warning is to not
     use way oils in a milling machine's centralized oiling system, as
     some of them contain wax which will clog the system.

     Other books and plans by Lautard (not a complete list):
     "Hey Tim, I gotta tell ya....' a mini Bedside Reader"
     "3.75 Inch Diameter Ungeared Rotary Table"
     "Universal Sleeve Clamp".

     Lautard's targeted readership seems to be the home machinist.  I'm
     sure that much of what he has to say may be "old hat" to a skilled
     machinist with many years experience.  I confess that I am a rank
     amateur in machine shop practice (my only professional experience was
     as a part-time helper in a gunsmith shop where the machine I got to know
     best was the polishing wheel). The flyer I quote from is available from
     Lautard at the address I gave with my last posting.

     [reviews and typing courtesy of Michael Gordon, except for the description
     of the third bedside reader.  JK]

     It has also been reported that Guy sells an index of some sort, either
     of all projects or all articles, in the back issues of Model Engineer.
     However, the index is reportedly hard to use.  See the description of
     Model Engineer magazine.

   - Machine Tool Reconditioning, by Connelly

     Covers reconditioning of machine tools, including figuring out
     what's off on lathes and such.  Also a good section on scraping
     (i.e. removing small areas of metal by scraping, such as making
     a plate very flat).  Mostly deals with reconditioning ways, and
     does not spend much time on mechanical problems such as worn nuts
     or gears.

   - The Surface Treatment and Finishing of Aluminum and its Alloys,
     Edited by S. Wernick, R. Pinner, and P.G. Sheasby.  Published
     1987 by ASM International, Metals Park, Ohio.  2 volumes.

     Mentioned in sci.materials in response to a "how do I anodize aluminum?"
     question.

   - Electroplating for the Amateur, by L. Warburton.
     Model & Allied Publications.
     Available via Argus.

   - The Electroplater's Handbook, by C.W. Ammen
     TAB books.
     ISBN 0-8306-0410-3 (hardbound), ISBN 0-8306-0310-7 (paperback)

   - Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory
     Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc
     One University Plaza
     Hackensack, NJ 07601

     Mentioned as a good reference for electroplating.

   - Machine Tool Practices, fourth edition, John Wiley and Sons.

     Covers a lot of ground and is the first-year book at DeAnza College.

   - Machine Shop Practice, second editions, volumes 1 and 2
     by K.H. Moltrecht.  Published by Industrial Press, Inc.
     ISBN ISBN 0-8311-1126-7 and ISBN 0-8311-1132-1 (vol 1, vol 2)

     Preface: "It is written for the beginner, as well as for the more
     advanced craftsman, technician, and manufacturing engineers."
     "...designed for use in the classroom or for home study,..."
     (about $20 each)

   - The Home Machinist's Handbook, by Doug Briney (c)1983,
     $17.95  [TAB Books] ISBN 0-8306-1573-3 (paperback)

     Basic... Reading prints, measurements, hand tools, bench tools, the
     lathe & operation, the milling machine & operation.  Projects using
     the Sherline machine system.

   - Machinists' Ready Reference, 7th edition (c)1989 [Prakken Publications,
     Inc], Compiled by Clarence Weigartner, ISBN 0-911168-74-5,
     7th edition: $12.50/$10.00(schools), new 8th edition: $14.50

     Pocket sized (4.5" x 6").  Good student guide to math, drills, tapers,
     threads, milling/turning speeds, gears, weights & reading shop prints.
     Sort of a "poor man's Machinery's Handbook".

   - How To Work Sheet Metal, by Herbert Dyer
     Available from Power Model Supply.  Highly recommended by Guy Lautard
     in his Machinist's Bedside Reader.

   - The New Science of Strong Materials, 1968 (1st ed.), 1976 (2nd ed.),
     1984 (Penguin paperback).  J.E. Gordon, Princeton University Press.

     (review courtesy of Bob Powell):
     This wonderful 280 page paperback lucidly covers the realm of
     materials science and engineering, in lay terms rather than
     textbook theory, but with enough depth and detail to satisfy
     an engineer in a different discipline.

     Explains, along the way, the physical and chemical nature of
     wood, and the nature and evolution of all common glue types,
     plastics, composites from straw-clay brick to fiberglass to
     kevlar, through iron and steel and alloy metals.  Elasticity and
     the theory of strength and toughness, with basic beam theory
     developed from first principles.  Cracks, defects and crack
     propagation (why glass bends then shatters), hardening 
     and tempering, and to boot, the best explanation I've
     seen of all the classic iron and steel making processes.

     For the wood-inclined, a whole chapter on timber and cellulose
     from the molecular level up through the evolution of the
     structural design of wooden ships and (wood) airplanes, with
     insight into wood drying and wood rot.  Dedicates a chapter
     alone to the evolution of wood glue and the operation and
     properties of each type.

   - The Starrett Book for Student Machinists (c)1941, 1975 & 1982 [160 pages]
     Catalog #1700 @ $8.50.

     Drawing, fits, bench work, how to measure, cutting speed/fluids,
     drilling, lathe operations, grinding, sawing, toolmaking, geometry,
     mechanics, & reference tables.  Good information, well worth the price.
     It covers screw cutting, via the lathe, better than most.  Be sure to
     get the FREE Starrett information, "single copy mailed to individual
     craftsmen."  Decimal Equivalent Card (pocket size 3" x 5"); The
     Starrett Story (36 pages 4-5/8" x 6-7/8"); The Tools and Rules for
     Precision Measuring, Bulletin #1211 (80 pages 5-1/4" x 7-5/8")

   - Watch Making, by George Daniels.

   - De Re Metallica (Georgius Agricola, 1556) translated by Herbert Hoover
   - Pirotechnia (Vannoccio Biringuccio, 1540) translated by Smith & Gnudi

     These two are Dover reprints, and were state-of-the art from renaissance
     through perhaps 1850 or so.  The first is on mining, and the second on
     metalworking.  An interesting historical look at how things were done
     in earlier times, and why they thought it worked.

   - Computational Geometry for Design and Manufacture,
     Copyright 1979, I.D.Faux, M.J. Pratt.
     Ellis Horwood Publishers, a division of John Wiley & Sons.
     ISBN 0-85312-114-1

     Very good overall text on surfaces and design.  Was recommended
     as a way of learning strange jargon used in CNC machining of surfaces,
     such as loft, nurbs, and coons.

   - Computer Numerical Control: Essentials in Programming and Networking
     by Lin.  Delmar Publishers, Inc. 3 Columbia Circle, P. O. Box 15015,
     Albany, NY 12212-5015. (800-347-7707)

     (recommended by Jerry Kimberlin)
     This is a textbook for a 2 semester course.  It assumes you know nothing
     and takes you through the whole thing including G, N, APT...2D, 3D, CNC 
     networking, the math, etc.  I don't remember the exact price but it is 
     over $50 and less than $70.

   - The New Edge of the Anvil, by Jack Andrews

     Not only is it a great intro to blacksmithing, but it also has the most
     wonderfully brief description of metallurgy and heat treating.  It is
     available from Skipjack Press direct at:
        637 Drexel Ave.
        Drexel Hill , PA   19026
        or e-mail andrews@hslc.org

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   The following suggested books pertain to jewelry-making, per Sherry Lem.

     The Complete Metalsmith   ISBN 0-87192-240-1, $14.98
     Tim McCreight
     Davis Publications, Inc.
     Worcester, MA, 1991
     Excellent, easy to follow techniques for beginning to intermediate levels,
     this is the revised edition which is much improved over the original.

     Contemporary Jewelry,
     Philip Morton
     Holt, Rinehart & Winston
     NY, 1970, 1976
     Interesting design philosophy, techniques.

     Design and Creation of Jewelry,
     Robert vonNeumann
     Chilton
     Radnor, PA, 1961, 1972

     Form Emphasis for Metalsmiths,
     Heikki Seppa
     Kent State University Press
     Kent, OH 1978
     Perhaps THE book on anticlastic raising/forming, though difficult to
     teach yourself from the pictures and instructions.

     Jewelry Concepts and Technology   ISBN 0-385-04185-3, $100.00
     Oppi Untracht
     Doubleday & Company
     Garden City, NY, 1982, 1985
     Most comprehensive guide on jewelry making techniques, 
     also contains gemological data, info on setting up a workshop.
     Also, his "Metal Techniques for Craftsmen" $75.00 is a somewhat
     abridged version.

     Jewelry: Contemporary Design and Technique,
     Chuck Evans
     Davis Publications
     Worcester, MA, 1983
     Especially good sections on mixed metals (mokume gane, etc.).

     Jewelry Making and Design,
     Augustus F. Rose and Antonio Cirino
     Dover Publications, Inc.
     NY, 1949, 1967
     Decidedly English flavor, very inexpensively priced.

     Jewelry Making Manual,
     Sylvia Wicks
     Brymorgen Press
     Cape Elizabeth, ME, 1986
     Beautiful color photos, good technique instructions.

     Jewelry Manufacture and Repair,
     Charles Jarvis
     Bonanza, NY, 1978

     Metal Sculpture - New Forms New Techniques,
     John Lynch
     The Viking Press
     NY, NY
     Basic art metal techniques.

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   Another book, suggested by Marc Kerr:

   "Silversmithing" by Finegold $35.00.  This is an excellent book if you are
   really after smithing and not jewelry making. It has very good
   descriptions of the smithing process and walks you through a few projects
   like a bowl, box with hinge and others.

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   How about video tapes?

  -  New Life Video Productions

     Several tapes with Rudy Kouhoupt, frequent author in HSM and
     other magazines.  Titles such as:
        "Fundamentals of Machine Lathe Operation"
        "Fundamentals of Milling Machine Operations"
        "How to Cut Spur Gears"
        "How to Cut Screw Threads"
        "Building a Sterling Hot Air Engine"
     Price varies from tape to tape.  Production qualities seem poor
     (based on viewing the first title), such as poor and inconsistent
     audio, including a radio playing in the background.  But you can
     safely ignore this and concentrate on what Rudy is trying to show you.
     Seems reasonably priced for the material covered.  The material is
     quite good for the beginner ("I just got a vertical mill; how do I use
     it?"), or perhaps even the advanced beginner.  These are probably tapes
     you will watch once or twice, so it would be nice if you could rent
     instead of purchase them!  Most of them seem to focus on making a
     simple but useful project while presenting the material.

  -  Bailey Craftsman Supply

     "Greensand Casting Techniques" from David Gingery's workshop.
     HSM seemed to like it.  Others include a second volume of the
     above, Basic Metal Lathe Operation (2 vol), Basic Milling Machine
     Operation.

  -  Darrell Markewitz, Wareham Forge

     "A 3 hour instructional VIDEO - $25.00 each (includes postage)"

     "This video contains a wealth of information, including what to look for
     in used tools, building a home shop, and demonstrations of a number of
     basic forming techniques."

     PART 1 - TOOLS:    forges; lighting a fire; coal
              anvils; hammers; vises; safety

     PART 2 - TECHNIQUES:   'S' hooks; tent peg; fire poker
                   twists; toasting fork; home forge

     the WAREHAM FORGE
     Hamlet of Wareham - RR #2
     Proton Stn Ont, CDN -  N0C 1L0
     (519) 923-9219, wareham.forge@headwaters.com

  -  Quality Street Productions

     The Fourth Annual NAMES Expo  (1993)

  -  Starrett

     Tools and Rules for Precision Measuring

  -  Colonial Williamsburg
     P.O. Box C
     Williamsburg, VA  23187

     Tapes are also available from:

     KVC Entertainment
     P.O. Box 40276
     Indianapolis, IN  46240-0276

     CW produces several tapes on blacksmithing, silversmithing, gunsmithing,
     and so on.  They show the "old time" way of doing things, but are
     reported to be excellent.

   - Tim McCreight:
     Complete Metalsmithing

     Apparently Tim has a book *and* video by this title.  Sandy Grossmann sez:

     "He takes you step by step through a couple of projects.  When *he* does
     it, it sure looks simple!  He gives some great shortcuts, and his examples
     are instructive."

     "I especially liked his sections on riveting and on using a rolling mill. 
     Very useful.  The entire video is oriented toward jewelry, but he also
     does a sterling silver box.  You can get the video mailorder from River
     Gems and Findings (phone 1-800-545-6566) or from TSI (I think).  Last
     time I checked it was about $40."


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 11 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160313.23914@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:13 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 11
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:13 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 939

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 11 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(continued from previous part)

   -  J. Malcolm Wild (Clocks)
      12 Norton Green Close
      Sheffield S8 8BP England
      Telephone: 0742 745693

      Supplies and accessories for clockmaking.

   -  The Jeweler's Loupe 1625 Crenshaw Blvd.  
      Torrance, CA 90501 
      (310)320-7005

   -  J.R. Machine
      Houston, Texas
      (800) 332-5361

      Make replacement parts for Bridgeport machines, at a lower cost
      than from Bridgeport.  Catalog available.

   -  Kitts Industrial Tools
      22384 Grand River Avenue
      Detroit, MI  48219
      800-521-6579, 313-538-2585 in MI, 313-538-6499 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      $25 minimum order
      M-Sa 9-5 EST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, supplies
      Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals, garbage-at-any-price
      import.

      150 page catalog, but you have to mail a $2 check (won't accept phone
      orders for catalogs!).

   -  Klockit
      P.O. Box 636
      Lake Geneva, WI  53147
      (800) KLOCKIT    (i.e. (800) 556-2548)

      Books, kits, plans, tools, parts for clocks and watches.

   -  The Knight Foundry
      P.O. Box 158
      81 Eureka St.
      Sutter Creek, CA  95685
      (209) 267-5543  Foundry, (209) 267-1449  Tourism & Education

      This outfit has been casting iron since 1873, and preserves old
      machinery and methods as a sort of living history museum.  They
      also operate a machine shop entirely from a water-powered line
      shaft!  They are doing serious commmercial work, including grey
      iron castings to 4000 lb. for industrial and architectural
      applications.  They do a lot of reproductions and one-offs for
      steam and gas engine nuts.  They also run a pattern shop.

      The proprietor is Ed Arata, a very approachable fellow who apparently
      runs the place with the help of Friends of Knight Foundry, a non-profit
      with historical/educational goals.

      (as of around January 1996, their future seems uncertain; contact
      them for current status and capabilities)

   -  Laguna Clay Co.
      14400 E. Lomitas Ave.
      City of Industry, CA  (don't have the zip)
      (818) 330-0631

      Sands and fire clays for casting.  Though it's liable to increase
      cost significantly, they do ship and they will split bags.  Very
      helpful in terms of making sure you get the right product for your use.

   -  Lindsay Publications Inc.
      P. O. Box 538
      Bradley, IL  60915-0538
      (815) 935-5353

      Lindsay publishes books for the home shop, covering casting, forging,
      machining, and a few plans for building engines and such.  It has been
      reported that their catalog is "a bit bizarre" but the service is
      fast.  Their electrical catalog has cross-over projects that include
      light (pun intended?) metalworking.

   -  Little Engines
      13486 Carapace Court
      Manassas, VA 22111
      (703) 791-5322

      Plans, castings, accessories for model rail motive power.

   -  Logan Actuator Co.
      4956 N. Elston Avenue
      Chicago, IL 60630
      (312) 736-7500, (312) 736-6854 (FAX)
      e-mail: 72330.1636@compuserve.com

      Spare parts etc. for Logan lathes.

   -  Mason & Sullivan
      210 Wood County Industrial Park
      Parkersburg, WV  26102-1686
      800-225-1153 (orders), 800-535-4486 (technical advice),
      800-535-4482 (customer service), 304-428-8271 (FAX)

      Supplier of clock kits, plans, parts, and tools.  In business since
      1947, they recently went out of business, and have re-appeared
      owned in part by the employees, though they also appear to be
      affiliated with the Woodcraft company (same address!)

   -  McMaster-Carr Supply Company
      PO Box 440
      New Brunswick NJ 08903-0440 USA
      (908) 329-3200 (Sales), (908) 329-6666 (Other Departments),
      (908) 329-3772 (FAX)

      Also has stocking sales centers in Atlanta, Chicago, and Los Angeles.

      Note that they apparently only deal with companies.  Jim Harres reports
      that they refused to send him a catalog.

      Prints an annual 2600+ page catalog.  Very complete supplier with tools,
      screws, shelving, wheels, lamps, heaters, air conditioners, plumbing, 
      electrical supplies, plastics, metals, pumps, containers, motors, gauges,
      paint brushes, hooks, door hardware, pH testers, microscopes, etc.
      Metric and english threads and sizes, too. Small bits of information,
      reference charts and advice are scattered throughout the catalog.

      No minimum order.  Satisfaction Guaranteed, whatever that means.  
      No problem with returns, but they ask that you get specific return
      instructions before shipping anything back.  All prices subject to
      change.  Visa and MasterCard accepted.  Prices are quoted plus actual
      shipping.

      Experience with McMaster-Carr is very good.  They do update
      (read: raise) their prices frequently, so don't believe catalog prices.
      Get a quote before buying.  Expect the catalog to be 10% low.
      Shipments have been prompt, complete, and accurate.  Prices seem 
      high, but they make up for it with "one-stop" shopping.

   -  Merritt's Antiques, Inc.
      P.O. Box 277
      Douglassville, PA 19518-0277
      (610) 689-9541, (610) 689-4538

      Clocks, clock parts, clock repairing tools, etc.

   -  Metal Buyer's Mart, Ltd. (formerly Metal By Mail)
      N15 W22218 Watertown Rd. #3
      Waukesha, WI  53186
      (800) 657-0721, (414) 547-3606, (414) 547-3860 (FAX)
      http://www.execpc.com/~metal
      e-mail: MBMDAN@aol.com

      Also: 1216 Capitol Dr, Unit A
      Addison, IL  60101
      (708) 628-8620, (708) 628-8747 (FAX)

      $3 catalog, which contains decent descriptions of what they sell
      (hardness, machinability, etc.).  Ferrous and nonferrous metals
      (including Nickel Silver), fasteners, and a few nonmetallic
      materials such as nylon and teflon.  A source for small quantities.

   -  Metal Lathe Accessories
      Box 88
      Pine Grove Mills, PA  16868

      Mostly castings and raw-parts kits for common and useful lathe
      accessories, mostly for lathes similar to 9- or 10-inch South
      Bend and Atlas-style units.  A T-slot cross slide, rear mounting
      tool post, faceplate, milling attachment, boring/facing head,
      large steady rest, boring and ball-turning tool post, and others.
      Also a toolpost grinder kit.  You can order kits, or just drawings.

   -  Metal Supply Co.
      4001 G St.
      Philadelphia, PA 19124
      (800) 638-2521

      Supplier of Brass, Copper, sheet, plate, bar, etc.

   -  Micro Fasteners
      110 Hillcrest Road
      Flemington, NJ  08822
      (800) 892-6917, (908) 806-4050, (908) 788-2607 (FAX)

      They have a growing selection of small nuts, bolts, screws, etc.  Their
      prices seem reasonable, and they'll sell in small lots.
      Call and ask for a catalog. 

   -  MicroKinetics
      1220 Kennestone Circle, suite J
      Marietta GA 30066
      (404) 422-7845, (404) 422-7854 (FAX), (404) 422-2714 (BBS)

      CNC parts such as software, PC controller boards, amplifiers,
      position sensing, and motors.  Kits to do conversions on Sherline
      lathes and mills, and Bridgeport mills.  Also Sherline lathes and
      mills pre-converted for CNC.

   -  Micro-Mark
      340 Snyder Avenue
      Berkeleyheights NJ 07922-1595
      (800) 225-1066, (908) 665-9383

      Miniature tools & things, including Sherline lathes and mills.
      "Weensy" nonferrous tube, rod, sheet.  Everything sold in small
      quantities.  Prices not superb, but some of the items can't be
      found elsewhere.

      Sometimes have sale catalogs with some items marked down as much
      as 50%.

   -  Minitech Machinery Corp.
      430 Tenth Street, Northwest Suite N-005
      Atlanta, GA 30318
      (404) 607-7228, (404) 892-6832 FAX, (800) 662-1760
      http://www.mindspring.com/~minitech/

      CNC software; complete small CNC mills (unknown mfg though it
      uses a Sherline headstock and motor; also one based strictly on
      a Sherline), CNC lathe (based on an Emco compact-5 or a Sherline),
      and retrofit kits for Sherline, Emco, and Prazi.

   -  J. I. Morris Co.
      394 Elm Street
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-4394, (508) 764-7350 FAX

      "Precision manufactured by us for stock and order.  Sizes
      0000-160 to 2-56 and popular UNM sizes stocked in many
      head styles and lengths in both brass and burr-free stainless.
      Matching taps, chasers and gages available.  Write for catalog
      or send print for prompt quotation."  (it has been reported
      their prices are high)

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.

   -  Myford Limited
      Chilwell Road
      Beeston,
      Nottingham,
      NG9 1ER
      ENGLAND Tel +44 (0)115 9254222 Fax +44 (0)115 9431299

      Myford has been making fine small lathes (7 inch, 10 inch, probably
      a few others) for many years, and at least in the UK they are a common
      addition to the serious home shop.  Quite a few articles have been
      published over the years describing home-built accessories.  In the USA,
      Blue Ridge is a Myford distributor.

   -  National Acme/Sheldon
      (419) 334-8971

      Parts for Sheldon lathes, among other things.
      Not cheap, no used parts, but the parts are in stock.  Example price
      (July 1995) $311 for cross feed screw for 10" Sheldon lathe.

   -  NC Tool Co.
      6568 Hunt Rd
      Pleasant Garden, NC 27313
      (800) 446-6498

      A recommended supplier of venturi (non-blower) forges.  They do have
      a catalog, and they are more than helpful when you call. They have
      several different styles and sizes and are excellent for those just
      starting out or those already well into this stuff.  They are good,
      simple units and most of all, they work!!! (from "the" Jim Hrisoulas)

   -  New Life Video Productions
      P.O. Box 175
      Traverse City, Michigan 49685
      (616) 276-7194 FAX

      Video tapes, as discussed elsewhere in the FAQ.

   -  Nexus Special Interests
      Nexus House
      Boundary Way
      Hemel Hempstead
      HP2 7ST
      United Kingdom
      +44-1442-66551, +44-1442-66998 (FAX), Subscription Hotline:+44-1858-435344

      A sister company of Argus, they now publish Model Engineer magazine.
      The USA agent is Wise Owl Worldwide Services.

   -  Nonferrous Metals Co.
      Waterbury, CT
      (203) 274-7255, (203) 274-7202 (FAX)

      Brass and copper mill products (rod, bar, wire, sheet, plate, tube),
      including Nickel Silver.

   -  Nordex, Inc.
      50 Newton Road
      P.O. Box 1956
      Danbury,  CT.  06813
      (800) 243-0986

      Usual range of precision components.  Spur gears down to .25" O.D.

   -  Norm Larson Books
      5426 E. Hwy 246
      Lompoc, CA  93436
      (800) 743-4766, (805) 735-2095

      "... books on just about every subject about metal working there is."

   -  Northern Hydraulic
      P.O. Box 1499
      Burnsville, MN 55337-0499
      (800) 533-5545, (612) 894-0083 (FAX)
      http://www.northern-online.com

      Sort of a hardware store by mail.  Gasoline engines, pressure washers,
      hydraulic pumps and cylinders, air compressors, tools, and so on.

   -  Omega Engineering
      P.O. Box 2669
      Stamford, CT 06906
      (203) 359-1660
      http://www.industry.net/omega

      Mentioned as a source for pyrometers and/or materials for making
      thermocouples and other process-measurement stuff.

   -  Penn Tool Company
      1776 Springfield Ave
      Maplewood, NJ 07040
      (800) 526-4956

      A very-well-stocked supplier with a very large selection of
      drills, taps, reamers, and other machining tools.  However,
      in some cases their prices seem outrageous, so check around
      first.  On the other hand, they may be the only source for
      that odd-sized spiral-flute reamer you need, or that #00 tap.
      Their catalogs are free; there is a small (196 pages in 1993)
      one and a large one (410 pages, catalog no. P-912 as of late
      1992), so ask for both (they may only send you the short one
      if you say you're a hobbyist).

   -  Personal CNC
      4856 W. 129th St.
      Hawthorne, CA 90250
      http://www.lainet.com/pcmotion

      CNC kits for Sherline lathes and mills, and larger machines.
      Also completely-assembled systems.

   -  PIC Design
      P.O. Box 1004
      Benson Road
      Middlebury,  CT.   06762
      (800) 243-6125

      Usual range of precision components.  Gears down to less than
      3/8" O.D.

   -  Pipe & Tube Supply
      PO Box 2852
      1621 North Cypress
      North Little Rock, AR 72114
      (501) 372-6556, (501) 372-7694 FAX

      (Dave Williams writes:)
      I finally found a place that will sell steel or aluminum stock in small
      quantities.  I'm pretty happy with this place - they're fully
      computerized, know *exactly* what's in inventory, and usually have it
      cut and waiting before I can get from the cashier's to the warehouse.
      I've bought very small quantities of metal with no hassle.  They've
      also special ordered some offbeat sizes for me, no problems, no extra
      charges.

      Since getting small quantities of metal has some up in this group from
      time to time, I asked them if they sold mail order.  They do, and
      they'll take orders by phone, mail, or fax.

   -  Powell's Technical Books
      Portland OR
      (800) 225-6911, (503) 228-0505 (FAX)

      Send a blank email to ping@technical.powells.portland.or.us for an
      automatic response with further instructions.  Significant selection
      of new & used books on machine shop practice, metallurgy, forge work,
      among tens of thousands of other used books.  You can search the new &
      used catalog via email or the World Wide Web:
      http://www.technical.powells.portland.or.us

   -  Power Model Supply
      13260 Summit Drive
      De Soto, MO  63020
      (314) 586-6466

      Similar to Cole's but heavier on the trains.  Detailed engineering
      drawings for about 15 different engines.  They also carry various
      metals.

   -  Prakken Publications, Inc
      P.O. Box 8623
      Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107
      (313) 769-1211, (800) 530-9673, (313) 769-8383 FAX

      Publishes the Machinist's Ready Reference.

   -  Prazi International Sales & Martketing Group
      5151 Oceanside, Suite 109
      Huntington Beach, CA 92649
      (800) JR-LATHE (575-2843), (714) 379-1380, (714) 379-1385 (FAX)

      Prazi is a brand of German-made small lathes and milling machines.
      This company is the US importer/representative.  Prazi seems to make
      good equipment but the prices are reportedly quite high for what
      you get.

   -  Premier Fastener Company
      495 E. Parr Blvd
      Reno, NV  89512
      (800) 654-6333

      March 4, 1995:  It was mentioned that these folks have titanium
      files.  Not cheap, but they "last like crazy".

   -  Process Heating Co.
      Seattle, WA
      (206) 682-3414

      These guys do nothing but play with nichrome and other heating elements.
      They rebuild and refurbish industrial heating elements for furnaces and
      heaters.  They also sell nichrome in 1 lb. lots.  They stock every size
      and shape of nichrome and ferrochrome wire available in the US and all
      those wierd little ceramic stand-offs for mounting them.  They will also
      design an element to your specifications of amps and volts and heat
      output.

   -  Production Tool
      (800) 366-3600
      
      Lathe tooling and such, fair prices, and often have the same item
      at different quality levels (more quality means more money, of
      course).

   -  Pyramid Products
      85357 American Canal Rd.
      Niland, CA 92257
      (619) 354-4265

      Foundry supplies, furnaces, sand, crucibles, tongs, etcetera.

   -  Reactive Metals Studio
      Box 890
      Clarkdale, AZ 86324
      (800) 876-3434, (520) 634-3434
      reactive@sedona.net

      Titanium, niobium, mokume-gane, shakudo and shibuichi metals.
      Supplies for anodizing reactive metals (this does NOT include
      aluminum).  Also an extensive line of findings, Sparkie welders
      and other supplies.  Free catalog.

   -  A.J. Reeves & Co (Birmingham) Ltd.
      Holly Lane
      Marston Green
      Birmingham B37 7AW
      England
      0121-779-5205 (FAX)

      Plans and parts for stationary, marine, rail and road steam engines
      and a number of IC engines as well.  Associated parts, materials
      and books (will ship internationally).

   -  Reid Tool Supply Company
      2265 Black Creek Road
      Muskegon, MI  49444-2684
      (800) 253-0421, (616) 777-3951, (616) 773-4485 (FAX)

      Prints a 350+ page catalog twice a year.
      Very complete assortment of knobs, screws, clamps, springs, air hoses
      and couplings, drills, mills, taps, machinist's tooling, and books.
      No minimum order, 30-day return with full refund.
      Offers rework and specialty items with special conditions and terms.
      However, they want a company name before sending a catalog.

   -  Rhino Robots Inc.
      221 South Water Street
      Champaign, Ill.  61824-4010
      (217) 352-8485, (217) 356-7699 (FAX)

      Mentioned as a seller of CNC tools.  The RM-6 is the model of their
      bench model mill.

   -  Rio Grande Supply
      4516 Anaheim Ave. NE
      Albuquerque, NM  87113-1668
      (800) 545-6566, (800) 253-9738 (Canada), 95-800-253-9738 (Mexico),
      (505) 821-5529 (FAX), (505) 821-7620 (Local/Technical)

      Jewelry-making tools.  Part of the Bell Group, which also owns
      River Gems and Findings (below).

   -  River Gems and Findings
      Dept T1
      6801 Washington NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87109
      (800) 545-6566 orders, (800) 533-3299 service, (505) 344-9671 fax

      Jewelry-making tools, raw metals such as Nickel Silver, more.
      Apparently a wholesaler, as they want a state tax ID or business
      license number before sending a catalog.  Part of the Bell Group,
      which also owns Rio Grande Supply, above.

   -  Robin Materials
      1951-T Colony St.
      Mountain View, CA 94843
      (415) 966-1533, (415) 966-1533 (FAX)
      http://www.rmat.com   or e-mail: info@rmat.com

      "Specialty metals since 1981"  "Rare alloys & non-standard sizes".
      For example, titanium, invar, inconel, and so on.

   -  Rutland Tool & Supply
      16700 E. Gale Avenue
      City of Industry, CA.  91745-0587
      (800) 289-4787, (818) 961-7111, (800) 333-3787 (FAX)

      (courtesy of Jon Bork)

      Rutland is a general machine shop supply house, with a good selection
      of tools, machines and accessories.  They primarily deal with
      professionals, but I have dealt with them in person and by phone and
      they have always been helpful and quick.  They send out several
      catalogs yearly including a new safety equipment supply catalog.
      Their prices are reasonable and they stock both top of the line and
      "quality import" selections for most items.

      (Will Martin reports they ask for a company name before sending
      out a catalog)

   -  S. LaRose, Inc.
      3223 Yanceyville St.
      P.O. Box 21208
      Greensboro, NC 27420
      (910) 621-1936

      Watch and clock movements, repair parts, supplies, tools, equipment.
      320-page catalog $2.50.

   -  Scanlon American Reprints
      P.O. Box 379
      Modesto, CA  95353
      (209) 667-2907

      Scanlon sells many books on clocks.

   -  Secs, Inc.
      520 Homestead Ave.
      Mt. Vernon,   N.Y.  10550
      (914) 667-5600

      General line of precision hardware, gears, pulleys, clutches, etc.

   -  Sequoia Brass and Copper
      2289 Industrial Pkwy W.
      P.O. Box 4661
      Hayward, CA  94540
      (800) 362-5255

      Aside from the brass/copper implied by the name, also supply
      Nickel Silver (which is mostly copper and contains no silver anyway!).
      Probably a source for various clock brasses.

   -  Servo Products Company
      433 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Box 90370
      Pasadena, CA  91109
      (818) 796-2460, (818) 796-3845 (FAX)

      Small precision drill presses and milling machines, including a
      whopping expensive CNC mill ($15,000).  Power feeds for mills.
      CNC small lathe, CNC add-on for large mills.

   -  Sherline Products, Inc.
      170 Navajo Street
      San Marcos, CA 92069
      (800) 541-0735, (619) 744-3674, (619) 744-1574 (FAX)
      http://www.sherline.com/sherline

      Sherline makes small mills and small lathes that are generally
      highly regarded for small work such as model-making.  Note that
      many other suppliers also stock Sherline, though you can order
      directly from the factory (at the same price) as well.  The
      advantage of finding a local supplier is that you may be able
      to try one out, or at least look at it, before spending your money.

   -  Small Parts, Inc.
      13980 N.W. 58th Court
      P.O. Box 4650
      Miami Lakes, FL.   33014
      (800) 220-4242, (305) 557-8222; (800) 423-9009 (FAX),
      (305) 558-0509 (international FAX)

      Nicest line of supplies and hardware for prototype builders.
      Specifically targeted for small quantities.  Catalog includes
      prices. More fun than the Sears catalog used to be.

   -  Sobel Machinery
      93 Garry Rd.
      Closter, NJ 07624
      (warehouse is at 82 Herbert Ave)
      (201) 768-9645, (201) 768-2842 (FAX)

      "Specializing in parts for American-made machinery."

   -  South Bend Lathe
      400 West Sample Street
      South Bend, IN 46625
      (219) 289-7771, (800) 24-LATHE (i.e. 245-2843)

      Still in South Bend, since 1906.  However, current products may be
      overpriced and no longer appropriate for small home shops.  We've
      also had reports of a real attitude problem on their part.

   -  Spheric Inc.
      Suite 101A
      428 West Harrison Street
      Claremont CA 91711

      Specialize in tungsten carbide balls used for making highly finished
      holes in work.  The idea is to drill/bore/ream a hole nearly the desired
      size, then finish it by forcing a hard sphere through it.  Spheric
      sells the balls, and has accumulated know-how in their use.  In firearm
      manufacturing I believe this is called button rifling or button
      finishing.

   -  Spring Manufacturers Institute, Inc.
      1865C Hicks Road
      Rolling Meadows, IL 60008

      If you need technical info about making springs, they sell a book
      entitled Handbook of Spring Design for $10 US (as of 1994).

   -  The Steam Outlet
      PO Box 1426
      Thonotassassa, FL 33592-1426

      Catalog $5.00.  They are supposed to have 1/2 to 40hp steam engines
      as well as parts and plans.

   -  MALCOLM G. STEVENS
      78 Summer St.
      P.O. Box 145
      Arlington, MA 02174
      Phone - (617) 648-4112

      A source for foundry supplies (crucibles, molding tools, tongs,
      shanks, fluxes, and safety equipment)

      Specific crucible sizes stocked appear to be #4 to #70 in clay,
      graphite, and #10 to #150 in Silicon Carbide.  Tell them that you
      are a hobbyist and would like some literature on foundry equipment.
      They apparently do not take credit cards but will bill you.

   -  Stock Drive Products
      2101 Jericho Turnpike
      Box 5416
      New Hyde Park, NY  11042-5416
      (516) 328-3300
      http://www.sdp-si.com/

      The catalogs are actually published jointly by Stock Drive
      Products (SDP) and Sterling Instruments (SI).  Both are divisions
      of Designatronics (DSG).

      These folks make all sorts of gears, drives, bearings, couplings,
      and related stuff.  Small, not hydroelectric-sized.  Ask them for
      their free publication "Handbook of Gears."  They also publish
      "Handbook of Shafts, Bearings & Couplings,"  "Handbook of Timing
      Belts, Chains & Friction Drives," "Handbook of Design Components,"
      "Aluminum Extrusions & Accessories."  They also package the whole
      set (I asked for just the handbook of gears and got all five).

      See also W.M. Berg for a similar product line.

   -  Stuart Models
      Braye Road,
      Vale,
      Guernsey,
      Channel Islands  
      UK     GY3 5XA

      Steam engine kits, highly regarded.  Coles Power Models is
      Stuart's U.S. agent.

   -  Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
      1530 Spence St.
      Los  Angeles, CA 90023
      (213) 262-8108

      Sells pre-mixed patina solutions.

   -  Surplus Center
      1015 West "O" Street
      P.O. Box 82209
      Lincoln,  NE 68501-2209
      (402) 474-4055, (402) 474-5198 (FAX), (800) 488-3407

      Though they originally sold mostly electronic surplus, they now
      carry a lot of hydraulic surplus and items that may be of metalworking
      interest such as motors, welders, phase converters, and such.
      Free catalog.

   -  Swest, Inc.
      11090 Stemmons Frwy
      Dallas, TX 75220
      (800)527-5057, (214)247-7744, (214)247-5307 fax

      Jewelry-making tools, metals such as Nickel Silver, more.  They ask
      for a company name and business license or tax ID, but may be willing
      to send a catalog without them.

   -  Tab Books
      Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0850

      Publish a very large number of books on technical subjects;
      you should be able to order them through any local bookstore.

   -  Tee Publishing
      The Fosse
      Fosse Way
      Radford Semele
      Leamington Spa
      Warwickshire CV31 1XN
      England
      01926 614101, 01926 614293 (FAX)
      e-mail: 100544.1675@compuserve.com

      From England, they publish Engineering in Miniature and other magazines.
      Similar to Argus, they have clockmaking books as well.  They state they
      are the world's only company specializing in back issues of Model 
      Engineer.

   -  Texas Knifemakers Supply
      Box 79402
      Houston, TX 77279

      Catalog $2 

   -  Tico
      Michigan
      (810) 478-4700

      Mentioned in a post 7/20/95, as a source of Titanium tubing.
      Minimum order is $100.

   -  Titanium Insustries Inc.
      Corporate Headquarters
      110 Lehigh Drive
      Fairfield, New Jersey, 07004-3044
      (201) 808-0222, Fax: (201) 808-9119
      http://www.titanium.com/

      "The world leader in titanium mill products distribution".
      The web pages include a technical reference guide and an FAQ.

   -  Traplet Publications Ltd.
      Traplet House
      Severn Drive
      Upton-Upon-Severn
      Worcestershire
      WR8 0JL
      England
      http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet
      E-Mail: Traplet@Dial.Pipex.Com
      +44 1684 594505

      Traplet Distribution USA
      144 W Sierra Madre Blvd
      Sierra Madre, CA 91024-2435
      U.S.A.
      All U.S. queries should be addressed to Marianne or Kathy.
      Tel. (800) 523-1736, Intl +1 818 836 6931 
      Fax. Intl. +1 818 836 6941

      Primary source for "Gas Turbine Engines for Model Aircraft" by Kurt
      Schreckling, and another book by Kamps.  Some model stores may also
      carry the book(s), such as Sulphur Springs Steam Models Ltd, Box 6165,
      Chesterfield MO 63006-6165 (per an ad in Feb/Mar '96 "Strictly I.C.").
      See Traplet's web pages, under "Books" for price and ordering info.

   -  Travers Tool Company, Inc.
      128-15 26th Avenue
      P.O. Box 1550
      Flushing, NY  11354-0108
      (800) 221-0270, (718) 886-7200, (800) 722-0703 (FAX),
      (718) 886-7895 (FAX)

      Prints a 500+ page large catalog once per year, and also sales flyers.
      Very complete line of tooling for machinists, including micrometers,
      mills, drills, reamers, broaches, taps, collets, tool posts, lathe tools,
      grinding wheels and stones, files, gages, vices, indicators, 
      precision steel pieces, glops and goos, books, and some power tools.
      $25.00 minimum order.  Visa, MasterCard, American Express accepted.
      Replace, refund, or full credit within 60 days of purchase (buyer's
      choice).  Prices are subject to change without notice.

      Experience with Travers has been good.  They are less
      expensive than McMaster-Carr and other full-price dealers.  They sell 
      premium and no-name lines of many similar tools so that you only buy
      the "quality" that you need.  Their performance on orders was once
      imperfect, but they stand behind their merchandise, so correcting the
      error was easy, fast, and painless.  I have ordered from them many times,
      so "one minor error out of many" is a good grade. 

   -  US Cyberlabs

      These folks market a cheap CNC kit, but around late January 1995 the
      newsgroup was unanimous in condemning the company and their product.
      Very slow delivery, shoddy workmanship, flimsy engineering were all
      cited.  US Cyberlabs is the only entry in the FAQ for which I decided
      to include a warning, and not their address/phone!

   -  Vigor, sold by FDJ
      2221 Lee Road, Suite #1
      Winter Park, FL 32789
      (800) 323-6091 (orders)
      (407) 629-6906
      (407) 645-0707 (FAX)

      (FDJ is the company name, and sells the Vigor line)
      Jeweler's tools, video tapes, books, retailing supplies, and many
      universal tools being targeted at jewelers.  Tweezers, ring forms,
      molds, forges, files, small lathes, loupes, calipers, torches,
      solders and brazing material, mountings, etc.  An informative
      catalog.

      Very wide selection, but prices seem very high.

   -  Village Press
      P.O. Box 1810
      2779 Aero Park Drive
      Traverse City, MI  49685
      (800) 447-7367, (616) 946-3712, (616) 946-3289 (FAX)
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/steambook/ls.htm
      VPshop@aol.com, Steambook@aol.com

      Publishers of Home Shop Machinist, Projects in Metal, and
      Live Steam.  Some back issues available; older ones are
      available as parts of several book series.  See the individual
      entries in the "magazines" question.  They also publish other
      books such as "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive."

   -  Weldco
      1-800-733-5840

      Mail order welders and supplies.

   -  Wholesale Tool  (Stu Friedberg's favorite)
      PO Box 68
      Warren, MI  48089-0068
      12155 Stephen Drive
      Warren, MI  48089-3962
      800-521-3420,  800-521-3661 (fax), 313-754-9270, 313-754-8652 (fax)

      Broader selection of hand tools, fewer large machines than IP&S.
      Fork lifts.  No bulk metals, but tool steel, shim stock, threaded rod,
      etc.  Vast selection of cutting tools and grinding wheels.  Scattering of
      interesting surplus items.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbyists.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers.

      500 page full line catalog twice a year.  You have to order by 8 digit
      stock number, so copy carefully.  :-)

      6 locations, main site in Warren, MI.  Most items at most locations,
      some items in Michigan only, very few at other locations only.
      Credit cards, COD's with some payment restrictions
      $25 minimum order

      The other locations:

      PO Box 481
      Stoughton, MA 02072-0481
      1234 Washington Street (Route 138)
      Stoughton, MA 02072-3345, 800-343-1008, 617-344-0338, 617-341-0617 (fax)

      PO Box 700
      Brandon, FL  33509-0700
      9212 Adamo Drive
      Tampa, FL  33619-2631
      800-237-4689, 813-623-3099, 813-623-5816 (fax)

      PO Box 470952
      Tulsa, OK  74147-0952
      9909 East 55th Place
      Tulsa, OK  74146-6404
      800-331-4075, 918-627-2240, 918-627-2044 (fax)

      PO Box 240965
      Charlotte, NC  28224-0965
      4200 Barringer Drive
      Charlotte, NC  28217-1512
      800-438-3580, 704-527-4071, 704-523-7960 (fax)

      8100 Pinemont Drive
      Houston, TX  77040-6522
      800-231-4585, 713-895-7777, 713-895-8113 (fax)

   -  Wise Owl Worldwide Services
      4314 West 238th Street
      Torrance, CA 90505-4509
      (310) 375-6258, (310) 375-0548 (FAX)

      USA agent for Argus and Nexus publications such as Model Engineer
      magazine, and probably other publications and publishers.

   -  Wood-Met Services, Inc.
      3314 W. Shoff Circle
      Peoria, IL 61604

      Mail-order sellers of plans, for accessories and projects in both
      wood and metal.


From john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.voicenet.com!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!netcom.net.uk!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!wrighta.demon.co.uk!john1
From: John G Wright <john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:26:36 +0100
Organization: none
Lines: 19
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <BzcprBAMKE2xEwPB@wrighta.demon.co.uk>
References: <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wrighta.demon.co.uk
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MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: Turnpike Version 1.12 <m7I+nLMvYY9IbOsKoVWLMWYsa8>

In article <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>, jim35@ix.netcom.com
writes
>I am working on a project that specifies using silver steel.  Does any
>one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
>substitute some other metal?
>Jim Duncan......jim35@ix.netcom.com
>
There are 2 types available in the UK the old type is not freecutting
but spec KEA108 is capable of being cut with a slowly revolving
gearcutter without the use of oil. I use it to make clock pinions
(Gears) and harden it by heating to cherry red and plunging vertically
in water. So it is not brittle I let it down to dark blue colour temper
using blueing salts that melt at this temperature. If you need an
address let me know. Both the steel and salts are available by mail
order in the UK.

John Wright john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk
-- 
John G Wright


From amajorov@id.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.dra.com!news.id.net!news
From: Allen Majorovic <amajorov@id.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 17:25:00 -0700
Organization: Ford Motor Company
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31D86C5C.2D80@id.net>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win16; I)

Craig Wall wrote:
>   <snip>
> 
>   Pressure jets, as designed by Eugene M. Gluhareff, run *only* on propane,
>   have no moving parts, and have both the best thrust to weight ratio and
>   the best specific fuel consumption of *any* jet engine short of a full-
>   sized turbofanjet.
> 
>   Craig Wall
> 

What are the specific problems that make them so scarce? They sound pretty 
good.

Allen


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!news.aa.net!ixa.net!news.ironhorse.com!op.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique Engine show ?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 00:31:32 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <blake-0207960032190001@206.84.2.81>
References: <4q9668$53k@news.sanders.lockheed.com> <DtCsI8.ApJ@cruzio.com> <4qmk61$kh6@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4r7eam$t5c@daily-planet.execpc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-32.ncweb.com

For anyone interested, you can check out the web page for the show I am
involved with-- The Pioneer Steam & Gas Engine Society of NW
Pennsylvania.  The address is
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake/pioneer.html.  The show is coming up soon
on July 19-21, 1996.  Located south of Erie, Pa.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From ceramics@hitech.net.au Sun Jul  7 15:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ceramics@hitech.net.au (Alan Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: [Q] Look for simple high temp (1800 C) rated refractory
Date: 1 Jul 1996 23:20:36 GMT
Organization: Ceramic Oxide Fabricators
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30668 sci.materials:18720 sci.chem:68810 sci.engr.chem:16181

In article <4r8i6u$g91@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> says:
>
(snip)

>I look for a 'refractory' like 'YTONG' which is *very* insulating but which
>can withstand 1600-1800 C without sticking to the crucible. Or can one make
>it yourself by mixing crushed/powdered gypsum with magnesia and then
>'re' baking it ?
>Even lining the inner walls of a carved YTONG block (which I use now) 
>with this 'refractory suffices.

See http://www.zircar.com  There you will see a 
reference to an American company called Zircar.  They have an office in 
Europe.  They make a range of light weight refractory insulating boards 
that can be used at 1800 deg C.  It is quite simple to assemble a small 
kiln using their boards on the hot face, and some sort of lower rated, 
lower cost material behind that.  Use the Zircar board to take the first 
300 - 500 deg, then a cheaper material in the lower temperature zone.



From billg63475@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC upgrade?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 07:54:32 -0400
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>Hello Bill,
 > Thanks for your note above; any chance that you could provide an
address
>for AhHa, for we folks outside the country?
>Regards, Ian.
 
>Ian Kirby.                          Ph: +61 42 213353
>Dept of Mechanical Engineering,     Fax:+61 42 213101
>University of Wollongong.           Email: i.kirby@uow.edu.au
>Northfields Avenue,
>Wollongong. 2522.
>NSW Australia




The address for AhHa is:

AHHA DESIGN GROUP
470 CLEVELAND AVE N.
ST. PAUL, MN 55104

They also have an E-Mail address:

ahha@gdic.com  www.gdic.com/ahha

Sorry for not posting this to the newsgroup for those of you abroad. I
sometimes forget that this is a global forum.

Bill


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: uses for engine valves ???
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:57:06 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4r6rk4$buv@news.whidbey.com>,
Clarence Noyer  <ccnoyer@whidbey.com> wrote:
>Wasn't kerosene the fluid of choice for storing sodium in the chem lab in 
>highschool 55 years ago?
>
>"CC"
>

Yes.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Antique Engine show ?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 06:10:53 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
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References: <4q9668$53k@news.sanders.lockheed.com> <DtCsI8.ApJ@cruzio.com> <4qmk61$kh6@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <4r7eam$t5c@daily-planet.execpc.com> <blake-0207960032190001@206.84.2.81>
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To: Blake Malkamaki <blake@ncweb.com>

Blake Malkamaki wrote:
> 
> For anyone interested, you can check out the web page for the show I am
> involved with-- The Pioneer Steam & Gas Engine Society of NW
> Pennsylvania.  The address is
> http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake/pioneer.html  The show is coming up soon
> on July 19-21, 1996.  Located south of Erie, Pa.
> Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
> >>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
> http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


NICE JOB on your show pages...

Paul in AJ AZ


From glennd@bdc.cirrus.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cincinnati Lathes
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 16:54:02 -0700
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Does any one have any knowledge of Cincinnati lathes.  A dealer 
here(Seattle) has a  13x30 "traytop" model for sale.


From rparker7@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rparker7@ix.netcom.com (Roy Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source of thin spring steel
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 01:41:39 GMT
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On 30 Jun 1996 22:05:08 GMT, Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
wrote:

>Harvey Freeman asked about spring steel rod---
>
>First choice--spring steel mobile antenna
>Second choice--Nolan Supply Corp. in Syracuse (800-736-2204) has flat 
>spring steel and presumably could suppy rod
>
>I got 5/8th by .060" flat stock for loco springs on my 2 1/2"/ft. 
>projects.
>
>"CC"
>
Well, any decent blacksmith could hammer what you need out of some
nice car/truck leaf spring......
Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 2 Jul 1996 08:07:34 -0700
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> <31D86C5C.2D80@id.net>
Distribution: 


: What are the specific problems that make them so scarce? They sound pretty 
: good.
	--A buddy of mine has one. For starters, it has an unusual shape 
(no idea why) which is *not* aerodynamic: there is a large pipe that 
sticks far out sideways. Also, on a quiet day you can probably hear the 
thing in neighboring countries: that thing is LOUD!
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Yikes, I'm 50!!! 	
	COMING SOON		:	The second THIRD of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 1 Jul 1996 15:48:53 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
>
>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?
>I've tried the following to clean the spots:
>   1) Shaklee Basic-H: nothing.
>   2) Hand cleaner: slight lightening.
>   3) Lighter fluid: nothing.
>   4) Kerosene: nothing.
>   5) Bleach mixed with baking soda (DiDi 7 substitute): nothing
>   6) Lacquer thinner: nothing.
>   7) Full wash cycle: nothing.
>Can these spots ever be cleaned?

At this point, probably not.

One thing that works moderately well for me is to rub in some of the
heavy-duty waterless handcleaner (right now, I have some of the citrus 
stuff in an orange container).  Work it in, then wash it out with soap 
and rinse.  Get out most of the water and repeat until clean.  Then throw 
it in the wash with Wisk.  Pre-treating and letting it soak a while may
be necessary.

Initially, it will spread the spot out, but as long as most of the gunk
stays suspended in the cleaner, it should come out.  I picked up a wonderful
grease streak on a good pair of jeans walking through a shop the other week
(not my fault, grease jumps out at me when it see's me coming :-) and
this worked pretty well.

The pumice in the handcleaner might be a bit rough on finer fabrics, though.

--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HENROB 2000 torch any good? It sure LOOKS nice.
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 00:21:40 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 25
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-32.ncweb.com

In article <96183.081521U496B@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>, Ben Groover
<U496B@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> wrote:

}I was at a car show recently and saw a HENROB 2000 torch demonstrated.
}Looking for anyone who has one or knows if they are realy as good as
}they look.  It's a torch with a pistol grip that kind of remind me a
}a big soldering gun only with flame.  They did some realy impressive
}cutting with this thing on tin and 1/2 steel!  It only removed an 1/8
}inch of metal or LESS when he cut the 1/2 steel into two puzzle pieces
}that fit as good as some of my kids wooden puzzles do!  Also did
}some welding with it that was nice but that's not my intended purpose.
}
}thanks for your help,
}ben
}u496b@wvnvm.wvnet.edu

I like my Henrob torch.  I use it mainly for light welding, brazing, and
soldering.  I works real nice and uses much less pressure than
conventional torch.  I only used it for cutting one time, but I'm so
spoiled with my plasma cutter that the Henrob could not compare.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 00:26:58 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <blake-0207960027450001@206.84.2.81>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-32.ncweb.com

}My question is if there is a way to get a good cut with a circular saw
}blade on sheet aluminum.  The blade I'm using is an inexpensive one -
}carbon steel with probably 10-11 tpi.  It's the only thing I've seen sold
}for aluminum cutting.  I have the blad set to penetrate the material about
}1/4 inch.  If there's something better for this application I'd love to
}know about it.
}
}Thanks for any help.
}
}   -John Anderson

Put some oil or water on the metal before you cut it.  It will cut much cleaner.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 08:34:46 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--The trouble with cutting al. with an abrasive blade is that it 
gums up. If you're using a fine-toothed circular saw blade running at 
high rpm the effedt may be the same. When I bandsaw al. I always go for 
less teeth per inch, although this is more a function of how thick the 
material is: you always want several teeth in the cut or else scary 
things can happen. If it's at all possible, I would recommend cutting the 
material at a *lower* rpm with this skillsaw-type approach. 
	--If you can make do with a slightly funkier surface finish and 
if you are cutting straight lines, one thing you might try is an 
air-nibbler: there's a cheapie available from Harbor Freight and it would 
be fine for .040" al. If you cut using a straightedge to keep it going in 
the right direction, you might see some improvement in the feedrate and 
there won't be such a mess...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Yikes, I'm 50!!! 	
	COMING SOON		:	The second THIRD of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 14:36:18 GMT
Lines: 20

In article <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini <P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it> wrote:
>In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:
>>Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
>>likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
>>itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.
>>
>Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
>10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
>It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.

Uhh, in these parts HF is called hydrofluoric acid, and is used to
etch glass.  I imagine that it would remove rust, but the rust
particles I was referring to are from airborne dust settling on
dishes and into my coffee cup in the garage.  Those marks come out
with a little bleach.

>It really works.

Doesn't the surface pitting bother you even a *little* bit?  ;-)



From shri@cs.umass.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shri@cs.umass.edu (H.Shrikumar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 2 Jul 1996 15:39:52 GMT
Organization: CMPSCI Dept, UMass Amherst
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In article <4r8jrt$a60@news2.acs.oakland.edu>,
Paul Amaranth <amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu> wrote:
>>>1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
>>>(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
>>>engine block up safely?

Thank you very much, all of you that found the time and is helping me
out ... I very much appreciate it !

>subjective terms).  Get it from your local steel dealer, rather than a
>hardware store.  It will be cheaper (particularly if you can get a piece
>from their cutoff pile) and you'll have a better idea of it's composition.

>composition.   I think either grade 5 or 8 would work for this application
>if it was sized correctly, but I'd stay away from the unmarked crap.

Ok, angle iron is out.  Taking up on a couple of suggestions, I am now
thinking in terms of getting steel square or rectangle section, or
maybe steel pipe, from the steel vendor, not the h/w store, making sure
it is of high grade. The Porsche tool also seems to use a square
section tube so it is the right direction. (sadly, it is not a in-stock
item, I cannot look see one unless I actually pre-pay and special order
it! Hence the return to design principles.)

>I suspect this is not a replacement for an engine hoist, but a necessary
>tool required to support the engine while doing something else.  I had
>to fabricate something similar for my TR8 the other year when I rebuilt

>Another point to consider is that you're not supporting the entire
>engine weight, since the rear motor mount is still connected (at least
>in my case, I don't know about your situation).

That is true ... exact same situation here. There is a way to do it
with an engine hoist, but that involves a more complicated procedure
than I can deal with practically.

One other complication is I anticipate the need for this tool to be in
installed position for a week, maybe more, and renting an engine hoist
for so long makes no economic sense.  I would rather spend $40 even
$100 fabricating something I can have for keeps, than spend $200 on
rental.

Thanx much everybody ... I will continue to check this group, for any
more suggestions you might have. Once I have a final design, I will
present it for your critique.

-- //Shrikumar 
   shri@cs.umass.edu 




From chemv1@uvic.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Uncle Al Schwartz <chemv1@uvic.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: [Q] Look for simple high temp (1800 C) rated refractory
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 12:06:43 -0700
Organization: The Noble Krell
Lines: 38
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To: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30681 sci.materials:18725 sci.chem:68820 sci.engr.chem:16187

C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> Currently I use YTONG (air-spaced gypsum inner wall blocks, normally
> not designed to be used as refractory, but it works excellent) as
> refractory for a furnace holding a crucible for melting metals like
> copper, silver, etc. It works well until 1350 C. I just carve out a block
> which is the space where the torch heats the crucible.
> But heating it up till 1450 C (melting cast-iron) or higher (using
> carbon arc instead of propane torch) the inner wall melts down to a white hot
> slurry of molten CaSO4 with dissolved CaO (and silica ?) which is very
> sticky and attacks Hessian (alumina) crucibles.
> Chamotte is no option, as it is *very heat-soaking*. It 'costs' about
> 200 degrees in maximum temperature.
> I look for a 'refractory' like 'YTONG' which is *very* insulating but which
> can withstand 1600-1800 C without sticking to the crucible. Or can one make
> it yourself by mixing crushed/powdered gypsum with magnesia and then
> 're' baking it ?
> Even lining the inner walls of a carved YTONG block (which I use now)
> with this 'refractory suffices.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Klaas

Expanded zirconia is available as felt sheets and shaped blocks.  
It is >tremendously< insulating.  If that won't take the heat you 
have big troubles.  Have a look around in http://www.search.com/ 
and especially http://www.thomasregister.com/

You could always go the conventional route and look up kiln 
furniture.

-- 
Alan "Uncle Al" Schwartz
UncleAl0@ix.netcom.com ("zero" before @; 24 hour delay)
http://www.netprophet.co.nz/uncleal/
 (Toxic URL! Hazardous to children, Democrats, and most mammals)
"Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?"  The Net!


From rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu (Richard H. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS Myford Super 7B
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:36:02 GMT
Organization: Computer Aided Engineering
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For sale:

Myford Super 7b modelmakers lathe.
mint condition.  Comes with:
Myford metal stand
2  three-jaw chucks
four-jaw chuck
taper attachment
quick change gear box
complete collet set by 1/64th increments
drive plate
3 faceplates
Albrecht drill chucks (2)
reversing motor wired for 110V
live and solid centers
other misc. tooling

$5500 plus shipping.

located near Madison, Wisconsin
Rich Williams
414-992-5243 after 6:00 PM weekdays and weekends


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 16:42:25 GMT
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In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:

>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. (Don't
>tell my wife!)  Anyhow, it splattered something on me that is
>essentially black.  Think it may be a combo of oil/grease/carbon?
>I've tried the following to clean the spots:
>   1) Shaklee Basic-H: nothing.
>   2) Hand cleaner: slight lightening.
>   3) Lighter fluid: nothing.
>   4) Kerosene: nothing.
>   5) Bleach mixed with baking soda (DiDi 7 substitute): nothing
>   6) Lacquer thinner: nothing.
>   7) Full wash cycle: nothing.
>Can these spots ever be cleaned?
>   Thank you...Chet Roberts (ed510@cleveland.freenet.edu)
>P.S.: Yes, I know it was stupid...but I've done even dumber
>stuff.... ; )

Probably difficult to get, but carbon tetrachloride might be worth trying;  
failing that, I didn't see acetone (as such) on your list.


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Rusties
Organization: Yup, need some
Message-ID: <Dtx8xA.Fwt@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 15:12:46 GMT
Lines: 14

We've all encountered them - people who can rust clean steel by
simply looking at it.  We try and try to keep them from out 1-2-3
blocks, our gages, precision ground stock but eventually they get
though and *wham*, another set of rusty fingerprints to polish off.

Anyway, related to this was a post in an urban folklore group asking
about the US National Bureau of Standards not permitting redheads (or
redheaded women) to enter their building in Washington DC because of
excessive rusting (presumably of pipes...)  This triggered a vague
memory of something like this, mentioned in a book I read relating to
metalworking.  The problem is that I've got too many books to browse
for something likely mentioned tangentially, so: anyone else have
even a vague recollection here?



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Organization: I need to put my ORGANIZATION here.
Message-ID: <Dtx8Mx.Frz@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com> <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com> <09960601134428.OUI53.SLogan@gnn.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 15:06:33 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <09960601134428.OUI53.SLogan@gnn.com>,
Scott Logan <SLogan@gnn.com> wrote:
>Yep, just had a similar discussion with our buddy Pete Albrecht.  He was
>in need of a 1"-12 threaded hole in a piece of his lathe, but he needed
>the lathe to put the thread in the piece of his lathe etc...

It's always a good idea to cultivate a friend with larger machinery
than you have...

>It turns out, I'm going to do it for him at a small charge.  But then, I
>have a mill available, AND the tap.

That's a bugger to tap in that size, but I imagine that you're using
the mill more to bore a straight hole and to hold the tap square.  
I've not had a lot of luck using a mill for threading without a
threading attachment.



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 1 Jul 1996 18:20:25 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 8
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It's the British analogue to drill rod.  

Pete Brooks

JAMES R. DUNCAN (jim35@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
: substitute some other metal?



From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Sun Jul  7 15:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 2 Jul 1996 15:19:39 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 84
Message-ID: <4rbemb$1120@serra.unipi.it>
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In article <4rb5r7$rm7@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>, allend@pt.cyanamid.com (david allen) says:
>
>>Boris Beizer (BBeizer@gnn.com) wrote:
>>       The Gluhareff "pressure jet" engines (I have the blueprints for 
>>the type used in the flying platform built in the Seattle area in the 
>>80's, .... reminiscent of pulse-jet engines.  
>>       What  did was to run a fuel line from a propane tank
>>through the combustion chamber so that the liquid propane would be changed
>>to vapor and be propelled by thermal expansion through a series of
>
I have made some experiment on Gluhareff PULSE jets, i have also seen a "large" model,
more or less the size of a 10 years hold boy.
If You know the sound of that jet, You know for shure that it is a pulse jet and
your ears are gone.

>thermal expansion is omni-directional, how is the flow maintained ONLY in the 
>forward direction?

You do not need any moving part to have te effect of the traditional reed valve of
traditional pulse jets, between other phenomena you can count on aerodinamic asimmetry
of some shapes; i try some ascii art...

     __________________

             /
            <             ----> low loss direction
             \            <---- high loss direction

     ___________________

this is one example of a "fluidic diode" (I hope that the translation is correct..)
Gluhareff PULSE jets are "L" shaped, the intake is 90 degree respect to the exaust and
the corner of the L is, I tink, the "valve".
The Gluhareff PULSE jet use also the pressure energy of liquid propane (about 10 bar ),
propane pass thru one spiral tube in the combustion chamber and it is vapourized, it 
arrives to one iniector placed at the top of the intake at High pressure, high temperature;
the iniector converts this energy on speed and the propane exit from the iniector at
supersonic speed, this accellerates the air and contributes to create the asimmetry 
required to have a working pulse jet.  

>>precisely designed funnels to get the proper air/fuel ratio for the
>>combustion chamber.  You can find several articles on the engine in
>
>venturi are common methods of inducting air flow and mixing gases, however, 
>they will not prevent the combustion pressure wave from back propagating.  how 

Correct, but "back"
1) is summed up to the high speed air flow induced by propane iniector, then means more or
    less one "slower forward".
2) is one high loss direction

>is thrust achieved if pressure is flowing in opposite directions?
>

All this is the best I can do to explain the Gluhareff PULSE jets operations.
I am not one aerodinamicist, and I cannot bet that all this is accurately correct.
One couple of things i can confirm for shure:
1) Gluhareff PULSE jets are PULSE jets (the original catalog has the frequency specs)
2) that jet WORKS.
3) that jet generates one impressive, terrific amount of noise, when the engine ( a small 
    model, about 5 pounds of thrust if I am right) is on the ground wibrates.
4) It drinks impressive amount of propane.

Hope this helps.

Ciao


Paolo

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sun Jul  7 15:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: 2 Jul 1996 19:30:58 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 22
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>
>Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
>when and why would I use each?
>
>Thanks,
>John
>


John,

It is a good question. I am no expert but here is the way I see it. Four flute mills 
can cut faster since they bring to bear twice as many cutting surfaces per 
revolution and this also helps with heat dissipation. On the other hand, two flute 
mills are easier to sharpen and are quite a bit cheaper. In addition most two flute 
mills are center cutting and can do plunge cuts while most four flute mills are not 
center cutting (but, four flute mills which can center cut are available). So, 
except for cost and ease of sharpening, I would normally chose a four flute over a  
two flute. I look forward to seeing the other responses.

Roger Weppelman



From billg63475@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC upgrade?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 04:25:31 -0400
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In a message dated 96-06-29 21:05:29 EDT, you write:

>[So, since money is a concern, how much does the AhHa kit cost, with and
> without the stepper motors? Does it include software capable of 
>generating a tool-path from CAD data? Will it drive any 3-axis milling 
>machine, or only certain models?]

The AhHa January catalog lists the following prices:

RC-500-12-2 Basic 2 axis 12 amp microstep cabinet $1979.00

RC-500-6-2 Basic 2 axis 6 amp microstep cabinet $1530.00

MSA12, 12 amp  microstep driver $575.00

MSA6, 6 amp microstep driver $367.00

Power Station CAD/CAM $995.00

BobCAD/CAM $995.00

Artisan-CNC Controller Software $944.00

CNC-Pro CNC Controller Software $549.00

This is the latest catalog that I have, You might want to contact them
directly for more info and current pricing on systems and stepper motors.
They will be more than happy to discuss the different options that they
can offer you.


You can reach AhHa at 612-641-1797


Bill Griffin


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 6 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160301.23909@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:01 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 6
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:01 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 510

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 6 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

30.   Rust!  How do I deal with rust?

     Some machinists live in areas where rust prevention is important, such
     as those in humid areas.  There are various steps to reduce the problem,
     and sometimes several steps need to be taken simultaneously.  Here are
     some ideas from previous posts on the topic:

     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> wrote, on 2 Jun 94:

     I have a lot of expensive tools/toys that I have a LOT of trouble keeping
     from rusting.  Over the years, I have tried many different tricks and 
     products, and I've summarized my results below.
 
     The paper is called VPI Paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor), and it's available
     from Brownell's (address in FAQ), as are raw crystals.  You want to make 
     sure that the 'dusty' side of the paper faces the tool, and don't be 
     surprised if some plastics (vinyl tool pouches) end up with a funny white 
     surface.  It doesn't seem to hurt the plastic, but it's disconcerting
     until you get used to it.  The tools will stay rust free much longer if
     they are sealed in a tight box, or a zip lock bag.  In theory, you should
     replace the paper annually if it's exposed to the air on a semi-regular
     basis.

     There is also another similar product called Zrust.  This comes in a
     number of forms, typically plastic 'cartridges' and flat plastic squares.
     They are also available from Brownells, but if you think you are going to
     be using a lot of this stuff, you're better off locating a dealer and
     buying direct.  The cartridges can handle an entire tool box or cabinet,
     and the little squares are good for smaller containers.  Once again, the
     tools should be stored in some sort of container.  The more airtight it
     is, the less frequently you will need to replace the rust-inhibitor.

     A company called Hydrosorbent sells silica gel desiccant in several 
     convenient sizes.  The nice thing about these is that they have an 
     indicator to tell when they're saturated, and you can 'recharge' them in 
     the oven.  I use the small aluminum packs for some of my tools, and
     all of my target pistols.  There is a new company that makes the same
     sort of thing in a plastic case that you can recharge in the microwave.
     If anyone knows where to get these, I'd love to find out.

     I also use a dehumidifier in my basement.  I live near Boston, and in the
     summer when my basement is still cool, the relative humidity goes through
     the roof.  I have a 25' x 30' basement, and a 25 pint capacity
     dehumidifier can keep the RH down to around 50% without running
     continuously.  It's best if you have a drain, so you don't have to
     remember to empty the bucket all the time.  Mine costs me about $20/month
     in electricity for 3-4 months each year.  If you go looking for a
     dehumidifier, get one that has a freeze-up cutout, and a hose connection
     on the machine, not the tank.  This saves a lot of space, and gets the
     water source up higher for easy draining.  As it is, I have mine up on top
     of a small set of shelves so that it will drain into the laundry sink.
     Check Consumer Reports for the most efficient model you can get,  it will
     pay for itself in electricity in short order.

     Brownells also used to sell 'Gunsmith's Soap', which was supposed to 
     neutralize the pH of your skin before handling things.  They discontinued
     this before I could get a chance to try it, but I have found that washing
     your hands to remove salts from perspiration can help.  If anyone knows
     a source for 'Gunsmiths Soap', I'd love to try some.

     The one last trick I use when I'm handling something I don't want to rust
     (like when I'm disassembling a target pistol) is to wear cotton
     "inspection gloves" that have been lightly sprayed with a thin rust
     preventative oil.  This simultaneously prevents me from etching things
     with my corrosive perspiration, and lightly coats everything I touch with
     oil.  If you are concerned about what the oil does to your skin, you can
     wear latex gloves underneath the cotton.  It doesn't work well for really
     delicate work, and you have to be careful not to let anything slip
     through your fingers.

     There are several spray treatments that work well for storage.  My current
     favorite was developed by Boeing, and is called BoeShield T-9.  It's 
     available from many marine supply houses.  After the carrier evaporates, 
     it leaves a thin surface film that does an excellent job of protecting
     steel from corrosion.
     ==================================
     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> followed up on the above,
     on Fri, 3 Jun 1994, with these addresses:

     Hydosorbent Co.
     Box 437
     Ashley Falls, MA  01222
     (413) 229-2967

     Sells Silica Gel descant packages in the following sizes:
     750 gram aluminum canister, 6"H x 4"D, protects 57 cubic ft., $24
     360 gram carton, 2" x 4" x 5", protects 27 cubic ft., $10.75
     40 gram aluminum box, 4" x 2" x 1/2", protects 3 cubic ft., $5.95
     26 gram packets, 2 12" x 4", protects 2 cubic ft., $12.00/10

     All but the packets are re-chargeable in an oven.  Post-paid, but
     $2.00 shipping charge.  They take MC/VISA

     Northern Instruments Corp.
     Lake Industrial Park
     6680 N. Hwy. 49
     Lino Lakes, MN  55014
     (612) 784-1250

     These folks sell a variety of VPI products.  The two most useful ones
     are their Zerust Vapor Capsules and Plastabs.  The capsules are plastic
     and have and adhesive strip to stick them into tool chests, machine tool
     cabinets etc.  The Plastabs are small squares cut from a 1/16" yellow
     sheet.

     The capsules come in several sizes, and are rated by radius of
     protection, and lifetime:

     VC-1-1, 1' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-1, 2' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-2, 2' protection radius for 2 years
     VC-6-2, 6' protection radius for 2 years

     The only ones I have a price on is the VC-2-1, which were $5 each.  The
     protection life varies with the degree to which the container is sealed.
     The capsules have a label to mark when they were installed so you know
     when to replace them.  Considering the cost, you may be better off with
     the silica gel canisters.  They will need recharging more often, but have
     an indicator.

     I couldn't find any detailed literature on the Plastabs, but I bought a
     sack with over 500 1/2" squares for $60.  They are much easier to use
     than VPI paper for small tools and parts.  I just toss one or two into
     a zip lock bag of small tool case.  These are sold in the 3/4" size by
     Brownells as 'Rust-Blox' (see below), where they claim they are good 
     for 300 cubic inches.  Brownells wants $27.20 for 100, which is a good
     bit more expensive than buying them in bulk from the Zerust people.
     You'll need to call them to find a local distributor.  The shelf life 
     is probably limited, even well sealed in a plastic bag, so if you don't
     need a lot, Brownells may still be cheaper.

     Brownells Inc.
     200 S. Street
     Montezuma, IA  50171-9989
     (516) 623-5401

     This is a gunsmith supply house, and sells a lot of good tools and other
     gadgets that even non-gunsmiths can use.  They have an extensive range
     of rust preventing supplies.  They sell the Hydrosorbent canisters for
     slightly less than Hydrosorbent does, and they carry the VPI tablets in
     small (but more expensive) quantities than N. Instruments.  They also
     sell VPI paper and Cosmoline (THE original GI rust preventative grease).
     The paper comes in 12" sq sheets, and can protect 1 cubic ft. for 2 years
     MINIMUM.  Typically, it lasts much longer.  They carry half a dozen
     varieties of aerosol rust preventatives, greases etc.

     Stock #

     415-100-040   40 gram silica gel cartridge             $5.50
     415-100-360   360 gram silica gel carton	            $9.95
     415-100-750   750 gram silica gel canister	           $22.50
     084-058-050   50 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                 $15.70
     084-058-100   100 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                $27.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 10 sheets, 12" x 12"          $4.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 50 sheets, 12" x 12"         $14.88

     I think that exhausts everything I know about rust prevention.  I've
     been fighting the battle ever since I moved from New Mexico 24 years
     ago, and I hope this can save someone some trouble.

     Doug White
     MIT Lincoln Laboratory

     =====================================================

     If the parts are small enough for that treatment then you can use
     "Blue Bags".  They are made by Bianchi ostensibly to store handguns in,
     but I find that any rustable metal parts are protected by them. They
     have zip lock style tops and come in several sizes.  I believe they also
     sell some in rifle sizes but without the zip lock closure.

     =====================================================

     For rust removal, the most common suggestion was Naval Jelly by Duro,
     available at many hardware stores.  It contains dilute phosphoric
     acid as its main ingredient.  Be prepared to apply a proper preventive
     after removal, as the metal will be left in a vulnerable condition.

31.   Are there any machinery museums?

      There are several museums that deal in some way with metalworking.
      Basically, if it has something to do with big machinery or manufacturing,
      it's a candidate for this list.  This includes transportation museums
      because they often have interesting machinery like locomotives.

      This list is organized by geographic areas.

      U.S.A.

      Maine

      Owls Head Transportation Museum, just South of Rockland,
      Maine (about midway up the Maine coast).  Many airplanes, but
      also bicycles, static and cutaway aircraft engines, automobiles,
      and early steam and gasoline engines.  In summertime they do
      car shows and regular weekend flying shows, and run some of the
      other equipment such as a Buffalo Springfield steam roller and
      a one-cylinder Mogul tractor.  Occasionally have auctions of
      engines, model and full-size, and other mechanical stuff;  these
      are consignment auctions that benefit the museum, not "overstock"
      of the museum itself.  Phone (207) 594-4418.

      Pennsylvania

      Coolspring Power Museum,
      Box 19,
      Coolspring PA 15730.
      Phone (814) 849-6883.
      This is a museum mostly of turn-of-the-century engines, many operable.
      The museum is in western Pennsylvania on route 36 about midway between
      Punxsutawney and Brooksville.  For the past 10 years they sponsor a
      show with many collectors showing their engines.  In 1995 this is
      scheduled for June 16-18.

      Vermont

      American Precision Museum,
      P.O. Box 679,
      Windsor, VT 05089,
      (802) 674-5781.
      http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Precision_Museum/
      On display are mostly metalworking tools which date from the early 1800s
      up through some of the first numerically controlled machines.  In
      addition there is some woodworking equipment.  The museum is located
      just off U.S. route 5 or South Main St. in Windsor, Vermont and from
      May 20 to November 1 it is open 9 to 5 on weekdays and 10 to 4 on
      Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

      DC (Discrict of Columbia)

      The Smithsonian Museums, Washington DC.

      Massachusetts

      Boston Computer Museum.  Lots of computers of course, if you are
      interested.  They also have a mechanical "computer" that plays
      tic-tac-toe made from tinkertoys and string.  Also a robotics
      display which should be enjoyed by metalworkers.

      Cambridge: the Science Museum has several mechanical
      displays and a full machine shop in the basement.
      Future: In Greenfield, Massachussets, they are trying to put
      together a cutting tool museum.  As of this writing (6/15/94)
      they are still trying to find a place to house it, so it may
      be mid-1995 or so before it opens.  May have early steam/gasoline
      engines when open.  (8/26/94: plans are to put it in the old
      Greenfield Tap and Die plant).

      Around central Massachussets, there is also the Springfield
      Armoury, LS Starrett, Old Sturbridge Village (a colonial
      "theme" village), Charles River Museum of Industry (154 Moody Street,
      Waltham, MA 02154  tele (617) 893-5410), a textile museum in Lowell
      with machinery and lots of displays of cloth, and the American Precision
      Museum (mentioned earlier); all within an hour and a half of Greenfield.

      The L.S. Starrett Co. Crescent Street, Athol, Massachusetts 01331 USA.
      (Contact person is Joel Shaughnessy in the Personnel Office in
      Building 7, open 8-12 AM  and 1-5 PM  tele: (508) 249-3551 x 295,
      and it is suggested to phone ahead for a guided tour reservation).
      The museum is opened by tour only and the guide will spend time with
      interested visitors.  Factory tours of two hours duration are also
      possible.

      Nantucket Island (off Massachusetts) has a 1740 windmill grinding corn
      (maze) when there is enough wind and it's wooden works are a fine
      example of the tech of the time... they also have machinery for
      manufacture of candles from whale oil in the Whaling museum there.

      At Saugus (North of Boston), the iron works is a fine example of
      a 1650  iron works right down to a  replica of one of only 8
      rolling and slitting mills that existed in the world at that time.

      Another trolley museum is forming now in Shelburne Falls,
      about 10 miles west of Greenfield, which will restore the original
      trolley car which served that town and may have a small workshop/carbarn
      by 1995/1996(?).  (That is c/o Shelburne Chamber of Commerce.)

      Rhode Island

      Old Slater Cotton Mill in Pawtucket.  Machine shop
      with vintage machinery, much in running condition.

      Tennessee

      National Ornamental Metal Museum, Memphis TN.  (901) 744-6380

      Dixie Gun Works, in Union City.  They demo how gun barrels
      were forged around the time of the American Civil War.  Lots of
      machinery, automobiles, nostalgic junk, photos, and of course guns.

      New Mexico

      Los Alamos National Lab (New Mexico) has a museum, including things
      like the Beryllium-Copper tools used in early atomic bomb work.

      Michigan

      Henry Ford Museum, and/or Greenfield Village (adjacent to the
      museum), near Dearborn/Detroit Michigan.  Very large, described as a
      paradise for mechanical engineering nuts.  The museum is 12 acres,
      and the village is 93 acres.  One day is inadequate for a full visit!
      Old cars, steam engines, restored 1880s factories, Thomas Edison's
      workshop (Henry Ford had Edison's "old" workshop/lab in Menlo Park,
      New Jersey, disassembled and moved to Michigan; Edison's newer lab
      is in West Orange, New Jersey) and Henry Ford's workshop.

      New Jersey

      Thomas Edison's lab is in West Orange, New Jersey (not Menlo Park).
      It is officially the Edison National Historical Site and run by
      the National Park Service.  What is there is the remnant of a factory
      complex that employed some 10,000 people at its peak, before WWI.
      The factory is gone, but there is a sizable two-story brick building,
      the lab, and several smaller buildings.  The whole facility has
      been preserved since Edison's death in the 1930s.  The lab contains
      a large machine shop, still set up as it would have been back then.
      It's called the "heavy machine shop", and it has the larger planers,
      lathes, and other machines.  All driven from line shafts, which were
      actuated by large electric motors (of course!).  There is, or had
      been, a second shop (the "precision shop") on the second floor.
      Access is only by tour.  The takes 35 minutes, stops for 3
      minutes to look at the roped-off heavy machine shop (there's also a
      chem lab, a library, and some other stuff).  The precision shop
      is off limits.  The level of detail is geared to the interest of the
      general public, and don't confuse the schoolchildren.
      It's at Main Street and Lakeside Avenue, in West Orange.

      Connecticut

      Lock Museum of America, Inc.  
      P. O. Box 104
      Terryville, CT 06786-0104
      phone  (203) 589-6359, (203) 589-6359 (FAX)
      I don't have any information on this other than the above;
      not even a street address!  May only be open on weekends.

      Connecticut Electric Railway Museum at Warehouse Point (2 miles from
      I-91, about 20 miles north of Hartford) has a repair shop with the
      usual machine shop tools for its fine collection of trolley cars.

      Ohio

      The museum of the early industrial revolution is located in
      Coalbrookdale (AKA Iron Bridge Gorge), has a lot of early steam
      engines -- walking beam, etc.  The last working producer of wrought
      iron in England donated the complete factory when they went out of
      business.

      Future: the National Inventors' Hall of Fame due to open in 1995
      in Akron... the PR says that it will allow "Visitors to tinker
      with wind tunnels, lathes, molds and other engines of creation".

      Colorado

      Colorado Springs:  just north is an excellent museum
      dealing with hard rock mining, including working examples of
      machinery.  The Museum of Western Mining is just off I-25 at
      exit 156 (North gate of the Air Force academy).  Colorado Springs
      is about 60 miles south of Denver.  They even have blacksmithing
      classes.

      Denver has one of the US Mints, where they stamp out coins
      (not printed money).  Tours; kind of boring, but it doesn't
      take too long.

      Denver also has the Forney Transportation Museum, which I think
      is a real dump *except* they have a  Big Boy locomotive on display
      you can walk right up to and look over (world's largest steam
      locomotive).

      East of Denver is the Georgetown Loop, a small historical
      railroad that also has a hardrock mine tour.

      Just east of Denver, near Golden, is the Colorado Railroad Museum.

      If you are in Durango, the Durango & Silverton railroad
      (a nice narrow-gauge mountain scenic tour) has tours of their
      steam engine shop, including the only known remaining engine-wheel
      "quartering" machine (sets loco wheels at 90 degrees on the shaft).

      Montana

      Miracle of America Museum, 58176 Highway 93, Polson, Montana 59860.

      Nevada

      Nevada Northern Railway, in Ely.  A nice 18-mile excursion
      train, but for $2.50 you can get a walking tour of their facilities
      which includes the engine machine shop.  Impressively large lathes
      and such, needed to service the steam and diesel engines.

      California

      Santa Monica Flying Museum.  Santa Monica, CA.  Don't know much
      about it except they have on display a "rotary" engine where the
      crank and pistons are stationary, and the case revolves.

      The Antique Gas & Steam Engine Museum, run in part by
      the California Early Day Gas Engine & Tractor Association.
      2400 North Santa Fe Avenue, Vista CA 92083.  Call (619) 941-1791
      or (800) 5-TRACTOR.  Steam, gas, tractors, blacksmith shop,
      farm implements.  Twice a year for two consecutive weekends
      they start engines, run tractors, and such (apparently the
      last 2 weekends in June and October).

      Canada

      Museum of Steam and Technology, in Hamilton, Ontario.
      Built around the original City of Hamilton waterworks plant and
      contains the two original Gartshore compound rotative beam pumping
      engines from the 1850s.  These engines stand about four stories high.
      The museum also contains quite a bit of steam model oriented exhibits.

      England

      The museum at Iron Bridge (or Ironbridge Gorge) deals
      with the history of the metals industry.

      Black Country Museum in Dudley (West of Birmingham, in the Midlands).
      This was in the heart of small-scale Victorian engineering, and it's
      now a restored canal basin & canal tunnel (boat rides available)
      together with a number of small terraced houses and manufactories.
      Most of the houses have an outbuilding in their back yards with the
      workshops of nailmakers, chainmakers etc.

      The Hunday tractor museum (just off the A69
      Newcastle-Carlisle road).  A farm museum with tractors, implements,
      stationary engines, etc.  They reportedly also have a grass landing
      strip for airplanes, but you'd better call before landing!

      There's a museum in Bath (walk up-hill from the Assembly Rooms)
      which has an interesting collection of old workshop machinery
      (and an old fizzy-water bottling plant).

      If you're in Bristol then visit the Industrial Museum which has a good
      collection of aero engines.

      The Amberley (?spel) Chalk Pits Museum, Sussex.  Perhaps not too
      relevant to this group, as there's more besides old metalwork-style
      engineering.  But their narrow gauge factory railway is still running,
      along with a couple of stationary engines.  Also, a good collection
      of old radio sets and related equipment, and for some, the prize
      exhibit, a UAX13 telephone exchange, still operating, which runs the
      museum phone system.  Add to that a small collection of old domestic
      electrical appliances, demonstrations of old crafts, printing presses,
      etc.

      The Cambridge (or is it Cambridgeshire) Museum of Technology, Cambridge.
      The old water pumping station on the River Cam, and they still run the
      horizontal oscillating steam engines.  These were replaced by
      single-cylinder gas engines which they also run.  There are a couple of
      other engines to see, the original boilers, a small collection of
      electrical stuff, a collection of printing presses, and a few other
      things.  This museum only opens occasionally, so check opening times
      before visiting.

      The Hove Engineerium, near Brighton.  There are about 3 or 4 stationary
      steam engines that are run at some weekends, together with a very nice
      collection of model engines, etc. 

      Science Museum of London has a recently-built "difference engine",
      as designed by Charles Babbage (see February 1993 Scientific
      American).  An amazing machine.

      Kew Bridge Pumping Museum just West of London, across the bridge
      from Kew Gardens.  Lots of steam engines working each weekend,
      including a 90-inch beam engine.  Also internal combustion engines.
      Dave Edmondson has info and pictures at
      http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbsm

      The Mechanical Music Museum is a short walk up the road from the Kew
      museum (above).

      NRM (National Railway Museum) in York, England.  A great place to go
      look at Railway stuff in general, lots of nice big steam engines.
      The NRM is expanding their workshop/restoration area and opening
      it up to the public (from behind a barrier, obviously) so you can
      go and watch them rebuilding and maintaining their "stock".
          National Railway Museum (NRM)
          Leeman Road                     Voice: +44-904-621261
          York YO2 4XJ                      FAX: +44-904-611112

      Manchester Museum of Science and Industry.
      Manchester was one of the primary centers of the industrial revolution -
      the railroad trials in the 1820's were run between Manchester and
      Liverpool (Stevenson's Rocket won, of course), and the area was the heart
      of the cotton and silk industry.  The first canal in Britain originated
      near Manchester to carry coal to factories, and Alan Turing did much of
      his computer work here.  There was also a thriving automobile and
      aircraft industry.

      To support all these activities, there was lots of machinery manufactured
      and used in the area.  The museum has many stationary engines (they claim
      the world's largest collection of working engines), in steam most days;
      also steam railroad engines, one of which does short trips on weekends.
      Also a great collection of microscopes, and interesting exhibits on
      computers, electricity and gas generation, sewers (as in sewage), cotton
      spinning and weaving (they demonstrate machinery at all stages from raw
      cotton to finished cloth).  The machine shop where the museum staff work
      on many projects has a viewing gallery, and this also houses an exhibit
      of old machine tools, including a Holzapfel lathe.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 7 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Jul1.160303.23910@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:03:03 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 7
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Jul 96 16:03:03 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 449

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 7 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

32.   How do I cut metal?

      Jim Driscoll (driscoll@curacao.dartmouth.edu) posted a list of cutting
      methods, ranging from simple to exotic.  There were several subsequent
      suggestions and additions.

      - Snips

      Sometimes also called shears, though true shears are large machines
      (see entry below).

      These things are scissors that will cut light gauge metal [up to 23-18
      gauge, depending on type] and are comparatively inexpensive [$15-$42,
      W. W. Grainger (WWG)].  The lighter the material the easier they are
      to use, and the more likely it is that you can cut a curved shape
      successfully.

      Especially in aviation use, snips come in "left", "right", and
      "straight" styles.  This refers to the direction in which you
      must move the tool as you cut.

      There are electric versions of these, called electric shears, that will
      cut up to 12ga mild, cut down to 1in radius, and cost from $204-$612.
      I have no experience with these.

      - Knock-out Punches

      Sometimes what you want to cut is a circle, or a slot for a computer
      connector.  In these cases there are standard punches that will cut
      these shapes accurately.  You first drill a pilot hole and put the
      cutter on one side, the die on the other, and then draw them together
      by turning a threaded bolt.  The larger sizes require a hydraulic
      driver.

      The manufacturer claims that these are good up to 10 gauge mild, but I
      have managed to cut holes in 12ga stainless (a tad thinner, but
      stronger). These things cost $17-$66 (WWG) for up to 2in, considerably
      more for the larger sizes ($309 for 4in).

      - Hack Saw

      You probably already know about this, but don't forget it.  Its
      portable and cheap, but can be tiring.  Use both hands, and buy the
      best blade you can afford.  Any blade can break, so be careful.
      Cutting fluid reportedly helps, just as it does in lathe/mill cutting.
      The right number of teeth per inch (tpi) can also be important; as a rule
      of thumb, you want 3 teeth in the work, so for example you'd want 6 to 12
      tpi for 1/2-inch stock.

      - SawzAll

      Sawzall is a trademark of Milwaukee for a reciprocating saw, more or
      less a jigsaw on steroids (And don't forget the jigsaw!).  These cost
      $136-$187 and with enough patience and blades can cut fairly heavy
      material in complex shapes (well, at least curves of 3in radius).  One
      metal fabricator I met cuts the patterns for his stainless cones with
      a Sawzall.  He has just broken down an purchased a plasma torch
      (q.v.).

      - Band Saw upright/cutoff

      These come in every size from the tiny to the unimaginably big.  They
      come in two basic styles, an upright version that is better for trying
      to cut shapes, and a cut-off version that has the throat arranged so
      that an arbitrarily large length can be cut off of an arbitrarily long
      piece of stock.  These things, for a reasonable size for a home shop
      cost from $150-$5000.  I have a version of the cheesey cut-off saw
      sold by Enco and others for about $200.  It has its limitations, but I
      am happy with it.

      - Grinder with Cutoff Wheel

      With an angle grinder or a die grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel,
      you can cut pipe, tube, rounds, flats, sheet, and maybe even plate,
      but only in straight line, or maybe a very large radius curve.  If you
      already have a grinder, this is a very inexpensive solution ($4 for an
      abrasive wheel).

      There are also cutoff wheels designed for use in circular saws.

      - Chop Saw

      This is basically a mitre saw with an abrasive cutoff wheel.  It's the
      kind of thing a contractor users to cut metal studs or rebar, but I
      use one to cut pipe, tube, rounds, and flat stock quickly.  They cost
      $233-$502.

      - Nibbler

      These look a bit like a jigsaw, but instead of a blade, they have a
      punch and die assembly.  They work by punching out material 1-2000
      times per minute along the cutting path.  Some are designed with a
      round punch so that the tool can be turned in any direction and the
      cut continued for cutting intricate shapes.  These cost from $318
      (16ga mild) to $1060 (8ga mild).  You can rent these at my local tool
      rental store.

      There are also small hand-powered nibblers from Radio Shack and the
      like, useful for odd holes in small chassis and the like.

      - Lathe/Milling Machine

      Don't forget that you can use a lathe to cut off material to a precise
      length or to finish a crudely cut piece to a more precise dimension.

      A milling machine can be used to mill slots for connectors as well as
      other crazily shaped holes in heavier material.

      - Shear

      (sometimes "shear" is also used to describe snips, discussed earlier)

      A shear is basically a giant pair of scissors that is designed to cut
      sheet or plate along a straight line into two pieces rather cleanly
      and somewhat precisely (+-1/32).  A small 30in combination shear,
      brake, and roll, that is manually powered and can shear 20ga mild
      costs $1095.  Shears, however, are made unimaginably large, and if you
      go to a shipyard, you can probably get your 2in plate sheared there.
      It is probably outside the budget of most to actually buy a shear for
      anything but very light material.  Your best bet is to find a welding
      shop in a cheap part of town, that has operated for generations, that
      seems to have nothing to do, and that has a shear.

      - Flame Cutting

      The idea behind flame cutting is to heat up ferrous metal until it
      starts to burn, and then direct oxygen at it in the direction you want
      to cut to continue the burn in that direction.  When I was on a tight
      budget I successfully got my job done with a $20 hardware store
      oxygen/propane outfit, but for about $200-$300 plus the rental/deposit
      on the tanks you can have a nice welding/cutting rig that will cut 6in
      plate.

      You can cut fairly intricate shapes with this, and depending on your
      skill and dexterity and the thickness of the material they will have a
      fairly clean edge.

      One drawback of this method is that it is material specific.  It will
      not cut stainless, for instance.  (Well, actually I have seen the
      results of someone ``severing'' stainless with a burning rig [``cut''
      would be a bit generous considering the results], and I am suspicious
      that what really happened was that the stainless was melted away.)

      - Plasma Cutting

      A plasma torch transfers an electric arc from the torch to the work
      piece which heats up a stream of gas (usually just compressed air) to
      a plasma.  The thin stream of plasma is so hot that it will cut any
      known metal (That is, according to my manual.  I am suspicious that it
      will cut all the unknown ones too.)  A hand held torch that can cut
      1/8in mild costs about $1000 and you need a compressor or an air
      cylinder too.  The quality of the cut is very good if you have enough
      power for the thickness of the material and if you can move the torch
      smoothly.

      I have a 30amp plasma torch from HyperTherm that I am very pleased
      with.  I use it to cut stainless and use nitrogen for the cutting gas.

      If you are considering buying one of these, you should know that 30
      amps from one manufacturer may not cut as much or as well as 20 amps
      from another.  Also, when one manufacturer claims that their machine
      will cut 1/2" plate it may not be the same quality of cut as another
      machine that claims to cut 1/2":  the closer you push the machine to
      its limit, the worse the cut.

      - Laser Cutting

      A friend of a friend in the Netherlands has one of these that looks
      like a scroll saw and cuts thick material cleanly, rapidly, and
      intricately.  I have no knowledge of small units like this in this
      country despite modest attempts to find them.  There is no particular
      reason why these should be terribly expensive.

      Warning: Many of the cutting methods above utilize tools with which it
      is quite easy to injure yourself.  It is important to lean and follow
      the proper precautions in using tools and equipment.  I know this
      because, for example, I burned myself with liquid propane out of
      ignorance of the proper safety precautions for handling fork lift
      propane cylinders.

33.   What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?

      This is certainly a frequently asked question!  The first answer is to
      use whatever the manufacturer's manual suggests, presuming you have
      a manual for your machine.

      Feed-screw threads, half nuts, back gears and similar are usually
      lubricated with a heavy oil such as Vactra 2, or grease if protected
      from chips and swarf.  Some suggest a mixture of oil and STP oil
      treatment.

      Beds and "ways" are often treated with special oils, called "way oils".
      ISO 68 (light to medium weight).  Examples:  Exxon Febis K 68, Shell
      Tona T-68, Sun way lub 1180, Mobil Vactra No 2, Texaco Way lube 68,
      Gulf Gulfway 68, Cheveron Vistac 68X.

      Spindle bearings call for "spindle oil" such as Exxon Nutto H32,
      Shell Tellus V32, BP HLP32, Castrol Hyspin AWS32, and Mobil DTE 32
      (in this case the 32 is the ISO VG32 spec, about the same as SAE
      10-weight, and is what Myford recommends for their lathes).  ISO
      grade 22 is also used.

      All three types are available from the better supply outfits,
      such as MSC.  Remember that the money you spend on proper oils will
      be a lot less than the cost of replacing the machine!

      South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
      their 9" and 10" lathes:  CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
      oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 teflon grease.  These are
      available from South Bend.

      A suggestion I've read is to oil lathe ways before using, to clean off
      dust/grunge that may have accumulated since you last used it.  After
      work is finished, wipe off but leave a film for rust prevention.

      Multigrade motor lubricants are not recommended.  They are full of
      all sorts of stuff to make the oil work inside an internal combustion
      engine.  Use a straight 30 or 20 grade oil with no detergent if you
      can't find anything else.  A transmission oil might be OK in an
      oil-filled gearcase.

      Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
      Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.

34.   What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?

      Unfortunately, there are many different tapers, and not enough
      space to tabulate them here.  For details, consult a good reference
      such as Machinery's Handbook, or Machinists' Ready Reference.

      First, why use tapers?  Two basic reasons.  At shallow angles,
      a tapered rod will tend to stick in a matching socket.  This
      is frequently used to hold tools such as drills or centers in
      a lathe tailstock, allowing rapid change.  At steep or shallow
      angles, a taper allows mating parts to line up very accurately.
      Note that the shallow tapers such as Morse may tend to get
      stuck if too much force is used, and this can turn into an
      interesting problem when you try to separate them!

      Tapers are poor holders for large side-loads, in which case
      you need a drawbolt or drawbar.  Here, a threaded bar is used to
      pull (draw) the tool into the socket and hold it in place.
      This is commonly used in milling machines and for collets.

      Shallow tapers such as Morse are "grabby" and need some force
      to break free.  Beyond a certain angle, a taper is self-releasing
      if the coefficient of friction is less than the tangent of the
      taper angle.

      Tapers can be sensitive to chips and dirt, so keep them clean.
      A gouged taper socket can usually be cleaned up nicely with a
      taper reamer, if you can borrow one.

      Morse:  Very common in lathe spindles and tailstocks.  Different
      standard sizes exist, such as MT1, MT2, and so on.  The actual
      taper varies from one size to the next.
         MT0   small=.2520 inch, large=.3561 inch, taper=.62460 in/ft
         MT1   small=.3690 inch, large=.4750 inch, taper=.59858 in/ft
         MT2   small=.5720 inch, large=.7000 inch, taper=.59941 in/ft
         MT3   small=.7780 inch, large=.9380 inch, taper=.60235 in/ft
         MT4   small=1.020 inch, large=1.231 inch, taper=.62326 in/ft
         4 1/2 small=1.266 inch, large=1.500 inch, taper=.62400 in/ft
         MT5   small=1.475 inch, large=1.748 inch, taper=.63151 in/ft
         MT6   small=2.116 inch, large=2.494 inch, taper=.62565 in/ft
         MT7   small=2.750 inch, large=3.270 inch, taper=.62400 in/ft
      These values are for the "business" part of the taper, and exclude
      whatever the taper is attached to, such as a drill or a center,
      and also excludes the tang, if any.  Note that there is no overlap,
      making it practically impossible to mate mis-matched tapers (this
      may also explain the different taper rates).  Some MT accessories such
      as drills will have a flat tang on the end, intended to mate with
      a matching slot in the socket, to give a setup better strength
      against rotation; in this case the taper is primarily being used
      for alignment, and to hold the drill from falling out when not
      being used.  Most small home-sized lathes use between MT0 (e.g.
      the Sherline) and MT4.  Larger taper sockets may include a
      sideways slot, intended for a flat tapered knock-out bar to
      facilitate tool removal.  Machinery's Handbook claims that Morse
      tapers are the only type of taper used on drills that have a
      taper shank.

      Morse Stub: a variation of Morse, but less than half as long.
      Same numbers as Morse, and correspond to the large end; that is,
      you can make a Morse Stub #3 by slicing off the end of a standard
      Morse #3 (excluding the problem of making the tang, if any).

      Brown & Sharpe tapers are similar to Morse tapers, but are
      found on some end mills and reamers, and on milling machines
      and grinding machines, also dividing heads.  Sometimes they have
      a tang, sometimes they are drilled and tapped for a draw-bolt.
      Some examples:
         BS1   small=.20000 inch, large=.23922 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS2   small=.25000 inch, large=.29968 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS3   small=.31250 inch, large=.37525 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS4   small=.3500  inch, large=.4023  inch, taper=.50240 in/ft
         BS5-BS18 see references.  Taper varies with number.

      Jarno:  Used on various machines, such as profiling machines and
      die-sinking machines, and on some lathes.  An attempt to create
      a very simple taper: all of them are .6 inch of taper per foot,
      the diameter at the large end is as many eighths, the diameter at
      the small end is as many tenths, and the length as many half-inches
      as the number of the taper (i.e. machinists making tapers didn't
      have to use big formulae or tables).   Some examples:
         2   small=.2, large=.25
         3   small=.3, large=.375
         4-20 see references, or compute from formulae above.

      Jacobs Taper:  commonly used to mount a drill chuck to a machine,
      whether a drill press or a lathe tailstock.  Since most chucks
      use a female Jacobs, such as JT6, and most tailstocks are female
      Morse, an adapter bar is usually used here, with the appropriate
      tapers on each end.  The taper varies quite a bit with taper number.
         0   small=.22844, large=.2500, taper=.59145 inch per foot
         1   small=.33341, large=.3840, taper=.92508 inch per foot
         2   small=.48764, large=.5590, taper=.97861 inch per foot
         2S  small=.48764, large=.5488, taper=.97861 inch per foot
         3   small=.74610, large=.8110, taper=.63898 inch per foot
         4   small=1.0372, large=1.1240, taper=.62886 inch per foot
         5   small=1.3161, large=1.4130, taper=.62010 inch per foot
         6   small=.6241,  large=.6760, taper=.62292 inch per foot
        33   small=.5605,  large=.6240, taper=.76194 inch per foot
      Nubers 0-5 appear to have been original, in that number 6 and
      number 33 are smaller than 5, and have a length of exactly 1 inch,
      and thus seem like later additions to the series.  Note some Jacobs
      chucks also have a threaded tang; see Machinery's Handbook for details.

      R8:  Frequently used on milling machine spindles.  Lots of tooling
      is available for R8.  Requires the use of a drawbar as the angle
      is relatively "blunt" and usage is often vertical with large side
      loads.  The taper is apparently 16 degrees 51 minutes, and the
      relevant diameters are .949 and 1.25 inches.  The drawbar thread
      is 7/16-20

      Others:

        American National Standard Tapers: really several families.
        The "self-holding" series appears largely identical to Morse
        except for details of the tang dimensions:  ANS continues the
        taper all the way down the sides of the tang, while Morse ends
        the taper at the start of the tang, with a straight-sided tang
        that starts out a bit smaller than where the taper left off.
        Some very small tapers are based on Brown & Sharp (they have
        fractional numbers), and some large ones use a taper of
        .75 inch per foot (numbers 200-1200).  They also have a
        separate family of steep tapers, numbered 5-30 in steps of
        5, apparently meant for milling machine spindles and such.

        British Standard Tapers: mentioned in Machinery's Handbook
        but not really explained.  Sorry.

35.  What is Electric Discharge Machining (EDM)?

     EDM is a method for producing holes and slots, or other shapes,
     by using an electric discharge (spark) to remove unwanted
     material.  It is also called spark erosion.  Sometimes it is
     used to produce a part, such as producing a slot in a very hard
     metal, and sometimes it is used to "rescue" a part such as
     removing a broken tap.

     The basic idea is to move an electrode very close to the work
     piece, and repeatedly produce a spark between the two.  This is
     best done while immersed in a dielectric liquid rather than in
     air, and it helps if the proper distance can be automatically
     maintained.  Note that the electrode gets eaten as well as the
     workpiece, and some compensation must be made for this.  Very
     good finish can be achieved, though at reduced speed.  EDM is
     not a fast method; some jobs can take days to produce holes,
     so its use is limited to jobs that cannot easily be done in
     other ways (e.g. oblong slots or complex shapes, sometimes in
     very hard material).  Note too the work must be conductive so
     it does not work on materials such as glass or ceramic, or most
     plastics.

     A good overview is in the Metals Handbook published by the
     American Society for Metals (ASM), volume 3, "Machining"
     (page 227 of the 8th edition, 1967).

     A wire EDM machine uses a wire (usually brass) as the electrode,
     which passes between guides like a bandsaw blade.  The wire may be used
     only once.  As it runs from a spool through the job, it is eroded and 
     reduced in diameter by as much as 1/3.  The old immersion system
     has now been largely replaced by flushing nozzles which surround
     the upper and lower wire guides.  These blast the dielectric
     through the cut.  This system works well, and has the tremendous
     advantage of being quick to shut off to remove parts, rethread
     broken wire, etc.

     As to the functionality of the wire EDM system, just imagine what
     you can do with a wire that leaves a .010" kerf through 6" thick
     stainless steel without heating it up.  With the CNC control 
     a taper can be imparted to the workpiece, because even the low-end
     machines have independently controlled upper and lower guide 
     movement.  High-end machines are mostly a way of getting more
     power (and therefore faster operation); more capacity; and 
     convenience features, like automatic wire threading and a 
     sinker-EDM head to create internal starting holes in hard material.

     EDM is well-suited for automated control.  In fact, it seems
     almost the only way to go, which usually puts sophisticated
     EDM out of the reach of most home shop machinists.  Luckily,
     the fundamentals are simple enough you can get by without
     computer control at the expense of constantly adjusting the
     gap manually, as is the case in the Popular Science article.

     An easily-built system is described in Popular Science, March 1968,
     pages 149-153.  However, it is electrically dangerous from a shock
     standpoint, and suggests using kerosene as the dielectric which is
     a strong fire hazard.  This machine was reworked a bit in the
     January 1991 issue of Home Shop Machinist (HSM), with a few
     notes in March 1991 (page 11), July 1991 (pages 4-6), May 1992
     (pages 10-11), May 1994 (page 44), and May 1995 (page 19).  EDM was
     described in February 1993 in Electronics Now (pages 79-81) along
     with a list of EDM resources, with a followup in the May 1993 issue
     (pages 78-80) that references the Popular Science and HSM articles.
     This machine requires "manual" feed of the electrode.  Please note
     that non-flammable dielectrics should be used, and are available from
     supply companies such as MSC (I have also heard of using de-ionized
     water as the dielectric).

     A more complex system was described in the July 16 and August 6 1976
     issues of Model Engineer magazine (with a letter in the November 5
     1976 issue, and a followup in the October 2 1981 issue).  In this
     case a small stepping motor is used to automatically feed the
     electrode.  This is a great improvement, but complicates building
     the system unless one of your other hobbies is electronics.

     From August 1993 to April 1994, Strictly IC magazine published
     a serial on building another stepper-driven machine.  Being
     newer, it may be easier to build because the parts listed are
     probably still available.  But, again, electronics should be
     another hobby (or perhaps you have a friend who needs some
     machining done?).  The series also suffers a bit from the
     author re-designing the system as the series was published,
     but who ever builds something as published, anyway?  (There
     was also a letter on the project, in February 1995)

     In May 1995, HSM started a six-part (one year) series on another
     complex EDM system, inspired by the Model Engineer series but
     updated to use contemporary parts.


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: BAEM Newsletter, The Crank Calls - A second location
Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:07:23 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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You can now look at the Bay Area Engine Modelers club
newsletter, The Crank Calls, at the following URL:

http://www.portal.com/~mrehmus/BAEM/crankcall.html

I believe Bill  Gray, editor of the Metal Web Newsletter,
will replace the May issue of The Crank Calls with 
a reference to the above URL.

This has been done for two reasons:

1. To releave some of the space pressure from the
   Metal Web News server.

2. To give both Bill Gray and myself an easier time
   when the newsletter is posted.  Otherwise, he has to
   work with my PC images & text on his Macintosh
   system.  It entailed a fair amount of doubled
   work.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact
me at mrehmus@shell.portal.com or (408) 251-9959 during
reasonable daylight and early evening hours.  Certainly
no later than 9 pm in California.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 18:14:00 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <09960602131312.OUI58.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com> <09960601134428.OUI53.SLogan@gnn.com> <Dtx8Mx.Frz@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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In article <Dtx8Mx.Frz@bbxrbk.basis.com>, From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com 
(Russ Kepler), the following was written:
> That's a bugger to tap in that size, but I imagine that you're using
> the mill more to bore a straight hole and to hold the tap square.  
> I've not had a lot of luck using a mill for threading without a
> threading attachment.

Actually, it's not too bad.  1"-12 UNF is a LOT easier than 1-1/8"-8
ACME (Logan 14" Lathe Half Nuts).  Yes, I am speaking from personal
experience.  

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From barronr@mail.erols.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!newsmaster@erols.com
From: Reginald Barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flux for cerro alloys?
Date: 1 Jul 1996 21:47:22 GMT
Organization: Home
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Ron Hillsden <hillsden@direct.ca> wrote:
>Can anyone suggest a flux for cerro-bend or cerro-true low temp 
>alloys? We are pouring it into silicon rubber molds, it doesn't seem to 
>like that very much!

Johnson's Jubilee Wax (if it is still available)

Reg Barron



From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Sun Jul  7 15:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 2 Jul 1996 10:16:59 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
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In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:
.............

>Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
>likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
>itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.
>
Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.
It really works.

Ciao

Paolo

                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From jmidkiff@gas.uug.arizona.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: J M Midkiff <jmidkiff@gas.uug.arizona.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tin Ceilings
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 10:35:09 -0700
Organization: The University of Arizona
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I am seeking dies for making ornamental tin ceilings and 
molds for casting hinges, knobs etc. Please reply if anyone has leads.       
thanks                                                                          
Michael Midkiff


From mcnair@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:24:24 GMT
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In article <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>, P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini) writes:
|> In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:
|> .............
|> 
|> >Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
|> >likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
|> >itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.
|> >
|> Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
|> 10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
|> It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.
|> It really works.

Don't try this at home kids - hydrofluoric acid is 
scary stuff - I would only use it in a fume cupboard - 
one of the few acids that will attack glass !
Oxalic acid is usually recommended for rust stains, it's
quite poisonous but not corrosive.
Phosphoric acid (regular rust remover) can also be tried,
still nasty stuff, but safer than either of the above.

To keep from tracking in workshop crud you need to take
your boots and overalls/apron off before you enter the
"clean rooms".
 
Ken.





From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 2 Jul 1996 22:58:35 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Not terribly familiar with the strengths of material, but a conventional
engine hoist is made of 2" x 2" steel, with (I think) 1/4" walls.  I weigh
closer to 350 pounds than I'd like, and *I* wouldn't stand on the lifting
eye end of your rig.  OTOH, I'd think about 2 x 2 x 1/4" angle, perhaps with
some other angle welded on the side to form a Tee.  That would keep the
angle from buckling quite so readily.

Pete Brooks



From steven@phaedra.apana.org.au Sun Jul  7 15:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steven@phaedra.apana.org.au (Steven Malikoff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade dividing head??????
Date: 2 Jul 1996 19:48:00 +1000
Organization: home in Sydney, Oz
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alan anganes (al@chelmsford.com) wrote:
:   Has anyone out there ever built a dividing head? I have been thinking 
: that I ought to be able to build one around a standard right angle worm 
: gear speed reducer, a few of which I happen to have. I have 20:1 and 30:1 
: ratio gearboxes. It seems to me, that by adding a suitable center or 
: chuck, and a method for attaching an indexing plate to the input shaft, I 
: should end up with a servicable dividing head. 

Yep, you've got the right idea. I built one about 15 years ago when I was
a kid from a scrapped worm gear arrangement and used it very successfully on
my dad's 6"x24" lathe. I welded up a bracket to attach the gearbox to the back
of the headstock, and machined a spigot that went into the headstock spindle.
This was fixed with an allen bolt through a hole drilled through the spindle.
The gearbox had a gear attached to the worm on the outside of the casing, so
I made another bracket to hold an allen bolt with the end turned to fit into
the gear teeth as a detent.
I used this to make all sorts of things such as homemade milling cutters and
other stuff I couldn't afford to buy from my pocket money.

Steve.
-- 
Steve Malikoff
steven@phaedra.apana.org.au
WW2 jeep page at http://phaedra.apana.org.au/ww2jeep.html


From steven@phaedra.apana.org.au Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steven@phaedra.apana.org.au (Steven Malikoff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: 2 Jul 1996 19:57:14 +1000
Organization: home in Sydney, Oz
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Ulf Bengtsson (ulfbe@ikp.liu.se) wrote:
: I am currently working on a Universal Pillar Tool - the famous design by mr. G.H. 
: Thomas. The more I see from his designs the more impressed I get.

: Does anybody on the net have any information on mr Thomas? 
: Who was he? 
: What was his background?

Old isues of Model Engineer should help you.  I used to look at pictures
of his tools in ME and shake my head in sheer amazement - not at the
quality of the work, which looked perfect, but rather the thing that
caught my attention all the time was the absolutely spotless equipment
machining setup photos.  Not a piece of swarf nor drop of oil anywhere.
You could have eaten your dinner off his cross-slide, I reckon!

Steve.
-- 
Steve Malikoff
steven@phaedra.apana.org.au
WW2 jeep page at http://phaedra.apana.org.au/ww2jeep.html


From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 2 Jul 1996 11:37:14 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <09960602063408.OUI47.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <4r9e0t$204@acme.sb.west.net>, From steamer@west.net (Edward 
Haas), the following was written:
> -Ialways thot it would be cool to have a shirt printed with a 
> big vertical splatter that said "yes, I operate a lathe; how did you 
> guess?" and another for a mill with a horiz. splatter.... 

If you get them made up, I'll take a set!
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From billg63475@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for EMCO phone/address
Date: 2 Jul 1996 08:01:12 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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>rondeauda1@woods.uml.edu wrote:
>>	Does anyone have the address or phone number for EMCO?
>>	Looking to upgrade cnc millers and lathes that we have.
>>	Dave
>


>Rathlesberger and Associates 
>Distributors for  EMCO MAIER manual machine tools:>

>230 Ridgeway Road
 >Woodside, CA 94062

>PHN 415-367-1296
>FAX 415-369-4788

>Howard Rathlesberger is the man...

>Tell him I sent you...

>VTY
>Machinists Exchange Online

>On the Web:
>http://www.machinists-exchange.com

>email:
>jingham@machinists-exchange.com


7-1-96

Mr Rathlesberger was very helpful in assisting me with some tooling for a
CNC converted Compact 8 lathe. He seems to have a lot of knowledge about
the machines and available tooling. Give him a call or drop him some
email!

Here is an E-Mail address for Rathlesberger and associates.


howardjean@aol.com


From allend@pt.cyanamid.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: allend@pt.cyanamid.com (david allen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 12:48:13 GMT
Organization: cyanamid
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>Boris Beizer (BBeizer@gnn.com) wrote:
>	The Gluhareff "pressure jet" engines (I have the blueprints for 
>the type used in the flying platform built in the Seattle area in the 
>80's, .... reminiscent of pulse-jet engines.  
>	What Gluhareff did was to run a fuel line from a propane tank
>through the combustion chamber so that the liquid propane would be changed
>to vapor and be propelled by thermal expansion through a series of

thermal expansion is omni-directional, how is the flow maintained ONLY in the 
forward direction?

>precisely designed funnels to get the proper air/fuel ratio for the
>combustion chamber.  You can find several articles on the engine in

venturi are common methods of inducting air flow and mixing gases, however, 
they will not prevent the combustion pressure wave from back propagating.  how 
is thrust achieved if pressure is flowing in opposite directions?

da

Copyright, Dr. D.R. Allen, D.Chem., 1996. Microsoft Network is
prohibited from redistributing this work in any form, in whole or
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terms. Please send notices of violation to Postmaster@microsoft.com
and allend@pt.cyanamid.com


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 23:54:51 GMT
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I have a question about wire mesh.  How is the size measured, like
100, 200 etc?.  Is the larger the number the wider the opening?
What size would a 100 mesh be in fractions?

Jim Waggener



From sweenywp@ttown.apci.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sweenywp@ttown.apci.com (Bill S.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Date: 2 Jul 1996 08:22:03 -0400
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6@newsreader.wustl.edu> <31c60deb.861745952@news.islandnet.com> <31C8078E.7F65@uniface.nl> <31c81c44.996490324@news.islandnet.com> <4q9v5t$1570@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
Distribution: 



Some of you are talking about some pretty hazardous things.  Pure oxygen 
greatly accelerates combustion.  Any equipment that is in oxygen service 
must be specially cleaned to be free of grease and other "fuels."  Please 
contact your oxygen supplier, find the Material Safety Data Sheet 
(probably on the web someplace,) contact a major manufacturer like Air 
Products, or call the Compressed Gas Association for safety information. 
Bill S.
The opinions here are my own and not those of my employer.


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 06:34:04 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 27
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To: jrro@watson.ibm.com

jrro@watson.ibm.com wrote:
> 
> In <pevans.330.31D7FFF0@mindlink.bc.ca>, pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans) writes:
> >In article <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
> >
> >>Just got my "new" used lathe (Southbend 14.5 x 6 ft).  Made the
> >>mistake of turning it on wearing one of my best shirts. .....

> .......I no longer wear good> clothes to work.)
> 
> Buy a new shirt?  (just a thought...)
> 
> ===========================================================
> 
>  1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen
>  1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)
>  1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)
> 
> ===========================================================

Good idea Jim...  But how about a used shirt?   I got some beauties at a yard
sale...  Fifty cents each (and no grease spot).  The fellow had outgrown 
them..  That happened to me also.  I am often one of the best dressed HSM
around, wearing a good Arrow size 16 shirt while working on my lathe.  
I need a 17 of I button it, but haven't worn a tie since retiring to AZ.

Paul in AJ AZ


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 06:54:52 -0700
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To: Peter Brooks <brooksp@corp.hp.com>

Peter Brooks wrote:
> 
> One more variable in Stirling engines is the average pressure of the...
> ........(wish I had a few of those fans handy right now.  The shop's too
> hot to work in when it's 100F outside.....)
> 
> Pete Brooks

Moved here last year...  I have a 10X20 shop that is now insulated and 
masonited (DON'T use 1/8).  Then I added a 7500 a/c.  That's living.  Just
like Jimmy and Tammy Bakkers dog house.
I usually start the a/c in the am (about 5:00) and quit by noon when the 
sun gets to the shop side.  7500 is marginal-were I doing it over the
unit would probably be 10,000.  It got down to about 89 last night
(but it's a dry heat).

Paul in AJ AZ


From ohk@edeber.nta.no Sun Jul  7 15:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ohk@edeber.nta.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen FOU.TD/DELAB)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: 02 Jul 1996 14:34:59 GMT
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In-reply-to: jim35@ix.netcom.com's message of 29 Jun 1996 15:41:44 GMT

In article <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com> jim35@ix.netcom.com(JAMES R. DUNCAN) writes:

   Path: nntp.nta.no!nntp.uio.no!Norway.EU.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
   From: jim35@ix.netcom.com(JAMES R. DUNCAN)
   Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
   Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:41:44 GMT
   Organization: Netcom
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   X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Jun 29 10:41:44 AM CDT 1996

   I am working on a project that specifies using silver steel.  Does any
   one know what silver steel is and where it can be purchased?  Can I
   substitute some other metal?
   Jim Duncan......jim35@ix.netcom.com

It's the same as drill rod, I believe.



From powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rusties
Date: 2 Jul 1996 20:46:33 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Lines: 22
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>Anyway, related to this was a post in an urban folklore group asking
>about the US National Bureau of Standards not permitting redheads (or
>redheaded women) to enter their building in Washington DC because of
>excessive rusting (presumably of pipes...)  This triggered a vague
>memory of something like this, mentioned in a book I read relating to
>metalworking.  The problem is that I've got too many books to browse
>for something likely mentioned tangentially, so: anyone else have
>even a vague recollection here?

Theophilus wrote, in "Divers Arts" chapter 21, (circa 1120A.D.),

"Tools are made harder by hardening them in the urine of a small
red-headed boy than by doing so in plain water"

I've tried this using the freeze concentrated remains of a
traditional indigo dyevat and it works a lot like a brine quench
*but* with a real amusing smell when the red hot iron hits the
quenching liquid!

Thomas--who would like to work with power tools but hasn't built
a waterwheel yet! 



From mcovingt@ai.uga.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcovingt@ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
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Demon Buddha (osan@netlabs.net) wrote:

: 	Yes, pure O2 is very dangerous stuff and should not be treated
: 	casually.  Why do you think guages read "Use no oil"?  If you
: 	wanna quick but ugly ride to the moon, oil up yer regulator
: 	guages.  Adios amigo.

I once read a science fiction story (by Asimov?) about an astronaut who
was accustomed to working in hydrogen and methane atmospheres; he had to
treat oxygen as an explosive gas.  Then one day he changed jobs, worked
in an oxygen atmosphere, and accidentally blew something up.

I don't remember the details, but it revolved around the fact that many
things will spontaneously ignite in pure oxygen that wouldn't in air
(nor, of course, in methane).
--
Michael A. Covington                http://www.ai.uga.edu/faculty/covington/
Artificial Intelligence Center                                           <><
The University of Georgia                Unless specifically indicated, I am
Athens, GA 30602-7415 U.S.A.                not speaking for the University.


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 01:01:26 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
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On Tue, 02 Jul 1996 17:09:47 GMT, johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
>when and why would I use each?
>
>Thanks,
>John
>
>
>
>Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
>with arrows in their backs.
>Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
>6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
>Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6
>
Two flute EMs are for softer metals, alu, copper, brass etc. They have
more chip clearance and rake and are used at higher speed and feed
rates for higher cubic inch per minute metal removal rates... they
tend to carve out material... much like a wood carvers tool. The four
or more fluted tools are generally for harder materials...stainless
steel, steel, monel and are  at slower speeds and are closer to
pushing the metal off due to rake although still very positive not
nearly as much as two flutes end mills. Careful examination of mill
geometry to match material being cut is one of many things a good
machinist watches for.
Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From thor@onthemenu.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thor@onthemenu.com (Michael Wood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How do you fabricate a seamless cone?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 15:20:48 GMT
Organization: On the Menu
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4ram3f$knn@jupiter.dnai.com>
Reply-To: thor@onthemenu.com
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I'm working on a project in my TIG welding class that calls for a
Stainless Steel (304) cone with 15" OD top and 1" OD bottom and a
heigth of about 1 foot. I would rather not try to make this from a
pattern and bend it since its going to be difficult to get the bottom
of the cone formed. 

Is there another way to get a seamless cone by some other process? Who
would I talk to in order to have this built? 

THOR





From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Sun Jul  7 15:18:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.chem
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Tanks Good???
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30713 sci.engr.chem:16195

mcovingt@ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) wrote:
>
>I once read a science fiction story (by Asimov?) about an astronaut who
>was accustomed to working in hydrogen and methane atmospheres; he had to
>treat oxygen as an explosive gas.  Then one day he changed jobs, worked
>in an oxygen atmosphere, and accidentally blew something up.
>
>I don't remember the details, but it revolved around the fact that many

This thread also caused me to recall a science fiction story I read
many years ago by Asimov.  In it, humans sent a robot to explore the
surface of Jupiter (this was before people realized that there is no
Jovian surface).  The robot was designed to handle the very hostile
(high pressure, high temperature, poisonous gas) atmosphere there.

The life forms there were very hostile and warlike and proceeded to
try to kill this intruder in a variety of inept and amusing ways.
At one point a group of these critters approached the robot with a
flask of a very dangerous gas and , unfortunately for them, the wind
shifted and blew a portion of it back and instantly killed a number
of them but did nothing to the robot.  The gas was, of course, 
oxygen.

It stuck in my mind all these years.

-Roger




From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun Jul  7 15:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 2 Jul 1996 15:34:52 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <4rbfis$sp8@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <4rb5r7$rm7@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

> thermal expansion is omni-directional, how is the flow maintained ONLY in the 
> forward direction?

> >precisely designed funnels to get the proper air/fuel ratio for the
> >combustion chamber.  You can find several articles on the engine in

> venturi are common methods of inducting air flow and mixing gases, however, 
> they will not prevent the combustion pressure wave from back propagating.  how 
> is thrust achieved if pressure is flowing in opposite directions?


My _guess_ is that the Gluhareff "pressure jet" engine works as follows:

The (liquid) propane is taken from the tank (under vapor pressure ~100 or more 
psi) and heated in the combustion chamber ( a nice way of cooling the walls
a bit, btw).  This causes the propane to vaporize and _greatly_ increases the 
volume and hence the speed.  This hot jet of pressurized propane vapor is then
introduced into a series of venturi not unlike those in a steam injector which
converts the momentum of the hot propane into pressure and mixes the propane
with the appropriate amount of air for combustion.

The idea seems straightforward enough, but if the venturi are anything
like those in a steam injector, there are a lot of quite tight
tolerance and lots of small precision tapers and bores.  The calcs for
a beast like this are tricky, since there's a lot of interdependent
stages (multiple venturi and a regenerative heating system for the
propane).  My guess is you have to start it with a large "weed burner"
type torch, and that combustion could be a little erratic, esp. if much
throttle control was wanted.

For those of you unfamiliar with steam injectors, they take steam from a boiler
and using no moving parts, pump water into the boiler against the steam pressure.


If these jets really do work (they've got "Tesla turbine" written all 
over them :-)), this would be a kick to put on a small go-kart
and run in the desert.

Pure guesswork, but fun -

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dtx9nt.FzE@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <felice.110.31D88757@pioneer.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 15:28:41 GMT
Lines: 50

In article <felice.110.31D88757@pioneer.net>,
Felice Luftschein <felice@pioneer.net> wrote:
>Just get used to looking like a filthy biker mechanic trashpicking
>derelict, I have and my life is simplified, less showers and
>laundry means more time to machine. My wife still won't let
>me re-designate the living room as shop space though.

You can use the living room as shop space, it just takes time to work up
to it.

First, start by leaving metalworking magazines laying about for weeks
on end.  If she moves them, object loudly that you were reading that,
and put it back.  Build up a collection.

Next, move in parts and machine catalogs.  Browse these while
watching TV and looking at your magazines.  Plan future purchases
after winning the lottery.  Make extensive lists.

Next bring in plans and blueprints.  These will require both of the
other sources, catalogs and magazines as support aids.  Spread the
plans out over the coffee table, removing any other objects on the
table such as picture books of the Grand Canyon, candles, coasters,
etc.

If you make it this far take a breather, relax a bit.  You're halfway
there, but the next couple of bits will get dicey.

With the plans in place it's time to move in some castings.  Pick out
something brass or bronze, they look nicer than black cast iron, and
are thus less objectionable.  Move in small ones and lay them out on
the plans - if asked just say that you're looking to see how to
approach the machining.  Ask your spouse for advice, try to get a
buy-in.

Once accustomed to the castings try a bit of experimental assembly of
clean parts.  If this doesn't work, back off a bit and try again
later.  If it does work you now have at least a clean assembly area.

If there are no objections to assembly see if you can start taking
off casting flash and the like, maybe requiring some filing.  This is
the most dangerous part, you may need to start with filing over the
plans themselves and care should be taken to avoid tearing the plans
or getting them dirtier than necessary.

If you've gotten here then you've got a good shot at moving in power
tools, running in air lines, etc.  I'd suggest taking it easy,
though, as spouses seem to object to a 30K RPM die grinder in the
living room and the power in most living rooms isn't adequate for
large equipment.



From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 10:09:18 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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In article <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>, P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini) wrote:

> In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ
Kepler) says:
> .............
> 
> >Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
> >likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
> >itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.
> >
> Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
> 10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
> It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.
> It really works.
> 
> Ciao
> 
> Paolo

Be *very* carefull with hydrofluric acid! 1 drop on your skin will make a
huge deep burn despite immediate washing, it's not at all like the common
acids in that way. A few percent coverage of your skin surface can be
lethal.

Try Oxalic acid for rust stains.


From tmw@fc.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tmw@fc.hp.com (Tom Walley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 2 Jul 1996 16:18:53 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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Russ Kepler (russ@bbxrbk.basis.com) wrote:
: In article <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini <P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it> wrote:
: >In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:
: >>Now, if I could just keep from tracking in grease and swarf I would
: >>likely make my wife a very happy person.  She's given up on the
: >>itty-bitty rust marks from cast iron work.
: >>
: >Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
: >10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
: >It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.

: Uhh, in these parts HF is called hydrofluoric acid, and is used to
: etch glass.  I imagine that it would remove rust, but the rust
: particles I was referring to are from airborne dust settling on

Around here (an IC fab facility) HF is used and treated as a very hazardous
chemical.  I seem to remember that as acids go, HF is a rather weak acid
which if gotten on the skin, has the immediate effect of causing a red
irritated area.  The nasty stuff occurs MUCH later.  Flourine atoms are
rather mobile in tissue and cause displacement of calcium atoms in skin,
muscle, and bones (yes, it can migrate though enough flesh to reach the
bone.)  The long term effect effect of exposure (not even chronic
exposure) to HF is large increase in the risk of bone cancer.  Since I don't
work around the stuff, I don't know of other intermediate effects.
There is first aid kit available for HF exposure, which if used immediately,
binds the flourine atoms so that they can't migrate into the skin.
So, if you're going to work around HF, know about it's hazards and if
your're somewhat casual about safety, try to live near a hospital that 
has personel familiar with HF exposure and has the proper chemicals on hand
to treat you.

Tom Walley
tmw@hpfitmw.fc.hp.com


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you fabricate a seamless cone?
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 17:09:29 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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In article <4ram3f$knn@jupiter.dnai.com> thor@onthemenu.com (Michael Wood) writes:


>I'm working on a project in my TIG welding class that calls for a
>Stainless Steel (304) cone with 15" OD top and 1" OD bottom and a
>heigth of about 1 foot. I would rather not try to make this from a
>pattern and bend it since its going to be difficult to get the bottom
>of the cone formed. 

>Is there another way to get a seamless cone by some other process? Who
>would I talk to in order to have this built? 

I had cones done by the exhaust-fan-and-wood-stove-guy; they went from about 
3" to 1" in 5 and 8 inches; he did a real nice job for $100, then I took 'em 
to a welder and paid another 100 to get the whole expansion chamber done.

Look fo a guy with a shop that is 30 years old.  In Vancouver it's King Sheet 
metal on Hastings.





From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:11:40 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 14
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I am not a Sterling engine expert but when you observe
the speed of a Sterling engine increase when the temp.
of the hot side is increased, it tends to make me believe
that the temperature differential is the driving force,
not available energy.

Of course if you increase the size of the engine, it
can use more of the available energy but for a given
size, temperature is the driving force, I think.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From xltool@earthlink.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!world1.bawave.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Leonard Dye <xltool@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: 3 Jul 1996 01:36:29 GMT
Organization: X-L Tool Company
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <4rciqt$aem@paraguay.it.earthlink.net>
References: <4rbkrg$4c8@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
>when and why would I use each?
>

Typically a four flute end mill is used for steels and two flutes are 
used for aluminum. Higher chip loads are obtainable when machining 
aluminum and the two flute has additional chip clearance in the flute 
trough to prevent overloading. A four flute end mill will have additional 
strenght needed for the higher cutting forces of steels.


-- 
Leonard Dye
xltool@earthlink.net

innovative CNC machine tools
http://home.earthlink.net/~xltool/
Flush-Cut coolant induced milling adapters




From johnd@islandnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 17:09:47 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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Message-ID: <4rbkrg$4c8@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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Hi,

Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
when and why would I use each?

Thanks,
John



Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Linear encoders.
Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:17:19 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4rbliv$d99@news1.svc>
References: <4r6fgu$4k5@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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The LEDs used are normally IR emitters which light
frequency just happens to match with the peak 
sensitivity of silicon photodetectors.  Depending
upon how good the emitter/sensor pair have been
made, you might not 'see' any light.

As I recall, the emitter/sensor pair 'look'
through a double grating.  The grating of
the scale and a second, stationary grating inside
the read head.

BTW, the grating is photetched.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From thuggi1@uic.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thuggi1@uic.edu (Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: test
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:48:22
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
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--
Tracy Huggins
University of Illinois at Chicago
E-Mail: thuggi1@uic.edu


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:32:14 GMT
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I've succesfully cut thick aluminum with my radial arm saw using
a carbide tipped blade.  No burrs and no problem.  Cross-cut by
the way.  Don't think I'd care to try a rip cut.

Safety - 

With thin material, you might get into the situation where
the material catches in the blade and then the
sheet aluminum becomes the equivalent of a gear rack and
the saw blade acts as the pinion.  At, say, 3,600 rpm, the
aluminum is really going to be moving when it shoots
out of the saw.

I'd recommend you let the outside shops shear your material
or, if you need a lot sheared, purchase a shear.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun Jul  7 15:18:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/ou
Date: 2 Jul 1996 18:55:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
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I used a regular cheap carbide blade in my skill 77 to cut some 3/16" aluminum 
diamond plate for the back of my jeep.  Clamp the work and wear hearing
protectors - the chips are hot and _moving_, so stand clear of the rear of
the saw.  Needless to say, you're wearing good eye protection of course.

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From zawarski@enter.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Zawarski <zawarski@enter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: metal working magazines
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 15:08:14 -0400
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in my humble opinion the best metal working magazine is
Model Engineers Workshop
Nexus Special Interest
Nexus House, Boundary Way
Hemel Hempstead, HP2 7ST
Great Britain


From johnd@islandnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Linear encoders.
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:18:50 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 19
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johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer) wrote:

>Some of the DROs for milling machines in the various catalogues are
>listed as having a resolution of 0.00015"/12".  Given that standard
>slotted opto devices have a slot about 0.020" wide,  how do these more
>accurate linear scales work?

Thanks all.  A very understandable description.

John.



Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From vest@wwa.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:34 EDT 1996
Article: 30729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mike vest <vest@wwa.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: [Q] Look for simple high temp (1800 C) rated refractory
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 15:51:32 -0600
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30729 sci.materials:18747 sci.chem:68865 sci.engr.chem:16208

C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> Currently I use YTONG (air-spaced gypsum inner wall blocks, normally
> not designed to be used as refractory, but it works excellent) as
> refractory for a furnace holding a crucible for melting metals like
> copper, silver, etc. It works well until 1350 C. I just carve out a block
> which is the space where the torch heats the crucible.
> But heating it up till 1450 C (melting cast-iron) or higher (using
> carbon arc instead of propane torch) the inner wall melts down to a white hot
> slurry of molten CaSO4 with dissolved CaO (and silica ?) which is very
> sticky and attacks Hessian (alumina) crucibles.
> Chamotte is no option, as it is *very heat-soaking*. It 'costs' about
> 200 degrees in maximum temperature.
> I look for a 'refractory' like 'YTONG' which is *very* insulating but which
> can withstand 1600-1800 C without sticking to the crucible. Or can one make
> it yourself by mixing crushed/powdered gypsum with magnesia and then
> 're' baking it ?
> Even lining the inner walls of a carved YTONG block (which I use now)
> with this 'refractory suffices.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Klaas


As mentioned Zircar is probably the best supplied of oxide type 
refractories.  They can be expensive and the oxides will mechanically 
degrade.  There is another oxide insulation outfit in Augusta GA, but I 
can't remember their name.  E-mail me and I'll look for it.  Don't 
forget the grafite fiber insulations.  These are quite good under 
reducing conditions, or vacuum.  They are also cheap.  One company is 
Great Lakes Carbon.  A final note is heat shields.  Try using these 
metals or alloys of, molybdenum (sp?), tungsten, and tantalum (softens 
at high T, but does not  melt).  Heat shields are sturdy and can be used 
to cut the temperature down to one suitable for insulation.

Mike


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 2 Jul 1996 22:50:30 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <4rc93m$gkh@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com> <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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In <DtqEM0.9p3@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) writes:
>In article <09960528123035.OUI28.SLogan@gnn.com>,
>Scott Logan <SLogan@gnn.com> wrote:
>>In article <4r0t8h$5f1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, From 
>>lesiak@glibm13.cen.uiuc.edu (Chris Lesiak), the following was written:
>>> A related question: How do you go about cutting the internal threads
>>> on a lathe (especially in a small diameter) ?
>>
>>With a tap.  I've heard of some folks making a very small internal
>>threading tool, but it's not economical if you figure what your time is
>>worth.  
>
>I cut a lot of internal threads using taps, but also have cause to
>single point cut threads when it's not practical to use a tap, such
>as a 1.5"x8tpi thread for my lathe spindle.  Lots of time a modeler
>has more time than money, so something like this is an easy call.
>
>Now if inside threading inserts and holders were just a bit
>cheaper...  
>

Inside acme threads are pretty easy to cut on lathe, single point style.
I manufactured a new bronze leadscrew nut for my Hardinge horizontal
mill this way.  

If *I* could do it, anybody could.  I didn't even have a proper thread 
gage for grinding the too.  Just used a protractor.

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From wjward@umich.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 18:42:27
Organization: University of Michigan - Michigan OnLine
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I recenlty purchased one of those Taiwanese 9"X20" lathes (from Grizzley).  
Well, I know it's not a Myford, but it seems to have posibilities, especially 
at the price Grizzley is selling it at.

Anyway, while trying to build some foolish thing, I bored out what I thought 
was a 1-inch hole about 2.5" deep.  Turns out that the headstock was out of 
allignment by about 0.0025/inch.  It is possible to adjust the headstock on 
this lathe, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this.  I need to 
measure both allignment with the ways AND perpendicularity.  I have dial 
micrometer indicators.  I thought about using a short piece of 1/2 inch drill 
rod in a Morse taper #3 collet, and taking measurments with an indicator 
fastened to the cross slide.  (Bad part is, to get at the headstock adjustment 
screws, I have to practically disassemble the entire thing.)

Any suggestions for how to allign a headstock in general, or this type of 
lathe in particular would be most appreciated. 


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:35 EDT 1996
Article: 30732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Stirling Engines? [Was:Sterling Question]
Date: 2 Jul 1996 22:53:33 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Andy Ross tells of seeing (and later, building his own) airplane stirling engine.
At least as of the time of writing (1993), his own engine had not flown, but
it was supposed to have the power to do so.  

I suspect you can get 1/2A power levels from a suitable engine, but it might
be a lot bigger.  Perhaps 4-6" long and 2" or so in diameter.  The good news is
that such an engine can be made incredibly light.  Getting heat to the 
dispacer end is left as an exercise for the *very* interested student.  That
was the issue that stopped Andy Ross.  Boats, bikes, those were OK for him, but
he didn't like the prospect of mounting a burner on a plane.  Lends a whole new
meaning to the term flameout.

Pete Brooks



From babcock@infi.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Low Temp Differential Sterling Engine?
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 19:33:58 +1000
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Hi
I probably missed this thread already, but I'm looking for plans for a low 
temp differential stirling cycle engine.  Any pointers would be appreciated.  
I've seen a couple advertised in Live Steam, and actually saw one at a show.  
Can't believe the prices!

Please e-mail response also.  Thanks,   Tom


From neidorff@uicc.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Message-ID: <Dtxunr.K7z@uicc.com>
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References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 23:02:15 GMT
Lines: 20

Russ Kepler (russ@bbxrbk.basis.com) wrote:
: In article <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it>, Paolo Zini <P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it> wrote:
: >In article <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com>, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:
: >Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
: >10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
: >It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.

: Uhh, in these parts HF is called hydrofluoric acid, and is used to
: etch glass...

It also eats bone, from what I can recall.  Very dangerous
stuff.  This is definitely one of the more hazardous acids
to humans.  The effects are not noticable immediately, but
the long term effects are extreme.

How about a simpler acid, like vinegar (acetic acid)?
--
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564


From mcovingt@ai.uga.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:36 EDT 1996
Article: 30735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcovingt@ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.electronics.repair,rec.radio.amateur.homebrew,alt.electronics.manufacture.circuitboard
Subject: Found: Good 3rd pty dr press f/Dremel
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 2 Jul 1996 23:44:38 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
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I just wanted to let you all know about something I found at a local home
center that is a remarkably good deal.

It's a drill press stand for Dremel Moto-Tools, but it's not made by Dremel.
It's imported from France under the  "Hobby Pro" label by
The Mibro Group, 72 Benbro Drive, Cheektowaga, NY 14225.

It cost me only $30 and is quite solidly built.  

Compared to Dremel's drill press stand, it has two big advantages:

* It fits all or virtually all Dremel and Craftsman (corded, not cordless)
  Moto-Tools, not just the current model.

* It does not "walk" from side to side as it goes down.  On the side of
  the rack is an adjustable pressure plate that lets you compensate 
  for wear and make sure its downfeed is perfectly straight.

I'm using it with an old Craftsman Moto-Tool (that's Dremel's name for
it; what's the generic term?) as a circuit board drill.  30,000 RPM is
very nice!

It also includes a router table setup which I haven't used.

I'm not affiliated with the company except as a satisfied customer.
Has anybody else seen and tried this item?
--
Michael A. Covington                http://www.ai.uga.edu/faculty/covington/
Artificial Intelligence Center                                           <><
The University of Georgia                Unless specifically indicated, I am
Athens, GA 30602-7415 U.S.A.                not speaking for the University.


From amajorov@id.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Allen Majorovic <amajorov@id.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 17:42:27 -0700
Organization: Ford Motor Company
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <31D9C1F3.2182@id.net>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu <4rbdvm$hul@acme.sb.west.net>
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Edward Haas wrote:
> 
> > <31D86C5C.2D80@id.net>
> Distribution:
> 
> : What are the specific problems that make them so scarce? They sound pretty
> : good.
>         --A buddy of mine has one. For starters, it has an unusual shape
> (no idea why) which is *not* aerodynamic: there is a large pipe that
> sticks far out sideways. Also, on a quiet day you can probably hear the
> thing in neighboring countries: that thing is LOUD!
> --
>         "Steamboat Ed" Haas     :       Yikes, I'm 50!!!
>         COMING SOON             :       The second THIRD of Life...
>         http://www.west.net/~steamer
>                 ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
> 

About ten (fifteen? twenty?!!) years ago I spent a couple of hours on the 
phone with a fellow who was trying to adapt the Glufareff to an aircraft of 
his own design. The noise was one of the things he commented on. He told me 
that when he did taxi testing of the aircraft the local police department 
would get complaints. The reason this is remarkable was that the field he 
used was also used by corporate and commercial jet traffic. *They* didn't get 
as many complaints taking off as this little plane did during taxi tests. He 
told me that the jet is also very sensitive to intake restrictions. These 
lead to unpredicatable changes in the action of the engine causing it to go 
>from  thrust "mode" to burner "mode". He also told me that the big engine was 
merely a scale-up of the twenty-pound-thrust engine and that resulted in the 
engine self-destructing after about twenty minutes due to the greater strains 
generated by the large engine. This had caused him to do a considerable 
amount of redesign of the engine. 

A light, cheap, efficient, throtleable jet engine sounds great but I don't 
think that that is what the Gluharef is.

Allen


From fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kay R. Fisher" <fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: B-A hardware
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:22:57 -0400
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <31DA7431.4F7D@gaas.enet.dec.com>
References: <31D7F3BB.9DE@bbs.ccai.com>
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To: Peter Carss <peter.carss@bbs.ccai.com>

Peter Carss wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a source for British B-A thread form hardware? I'm
> restoring a Myford ML-7 and am missing a few small screws. I suppose I
> could tap them out for SAE hardware, but I'd rather keep it original
> 
> Thanks!

Peter, don't ignore the obvious.  Call Myford in England.
They can supply many spare parts and are a joy to deal with.

Also it would be worth your while to subscribe (or obtain some
old) English model magazines.  Also there is a large model
supply company "Reeves" in England which has a great catalogue
which is also available on the WEB at 
http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/reeves/index.html

Also Hemingway has a great catalogue and lathe accessorie kits
which are made on and for Myford lathes at
http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/hemingway/index.html

I've asked questions, ordered parts and always been satisified with
Myford, Reeves, and Hemingway.

Bye
Kay R. Fisher


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:37 EDT 1996
Article: 30738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: source for polishing compound needed
Date: 3 Jul 1996 12:29:46 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4rdp3q$8qq@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Suggest you get Brownell's catalog. They carry a whole range
of metal polishing equipment for gunsmiths.  They're in
Montezuma, Iowa.  I think the catalog is $4.00.  Good people
to deal with.




From cutler@email.unc.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!usenet
From: Douglas Cutler <cutler@email.unc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: B-A hardware and Myford Spares.
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 11:51:39 -0700
Organization: UNC Chapel Hill
Lines: 8
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I was in England about a month ago and stopped in the Myford Spares 
Store.  I was given a couple of sheets of "frequently requested" spare 
part for the ML7.  I don't remember seeing many of the smaller screws but 
some of the hard to find or specialized nuts and bolts, such as the 
t-nuts and bolts for the top slide, are readily available.  If anybody 
has anything special that they would like me to look up please send me 
email.  I also have the current price list for accessories for the 10 and 
7 series machines.


From r.brown.@deeside.ac.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: robert brown <r.brown.@deeside.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Home-made Dividing Head??????
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 13:58:22 -0700
Organization: deeside college
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I can recommend the George Thomas Dividing Head, Al, having built one 
some number of years ago. The compound indexing feature, if you choose to 
build it, means that you can get virtually any number of divisions you 
like. The design is worth looking at, even if you plan to use one of your 
worm boxes. The number of teeth in the wormwheel govern the number of 
divisions you can get in plain indexing. You will get the idea by looking 
at the following, which gives the number of factors in wheels of 
different tooth count:-

		Tooth Count		Factors
		60			1,2,3,4,5,6,10,12,15,20,30,60
		40			1,2,4,5,8,10,20,40
		30			1,2,3,5,6,10,15,30
		20			1,2,4,5,10,20

	As you can see, a 60T wheel is desirable, but if you plan to use 
your worm boxes, use the 30T one for preference. Build in some provision 
for backlash elimination or absorption and some form of lock for the 
spindle.
			Best Wishes and Good Luck

				Rob. Brown


From buddy@space.mit.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Buddy Randolph <buddy@space.mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Washers-when to use and when not
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 10:10:15 -0400
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
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Bernielama wrote:
> 
> This may seem like a dumb question... <snip>

Threaded fasteners are in fact "machines" that consume a lot of 
engineering effort in critical applications, and your questions are 
certainly not dumb.

> Is there a "proper" situation to use a
> washer? <snip>

Flat washers are used to distribute the load over a greater surface 
area and/or to help protect the part finish from a bolt head or nut.

> <snip>...a bolt is used to
> fasten a piece of sheet metal to a  piece of steel tubing which has a hole
> drilled through a flattened end. Does it matter which side the nut is on...<snip>...
> and should I use a washer on the
> "nut side", the "bolt side", or both sides?...<snip>...does it matter whether I apply torque to the nut or the bolt...?

First the second question: it's better to hold the bolt and turn the 
nut, because bolts generally offer more resistance due to additional 
friction where they touch the part.  There's also the wind-up of the 
bolt as it responds to the torque, but I believe this is the same 
regardless of which is turned (comments, anyone?).  Given that the nut 
is turned a washer under the nut would help keep the nut corners from 
scarring the part during turning, thus reducing the resistance due to 
this interference (assuming the flat washer spinning against the part 
offers less).  A washer under the bolt head would do the same but 
might not be desired with heavy stock and a proper hole size, because 
the bolthead corners would help hold the bolt in place as they dug in 
and didn't turn.  This leads to the first question: heavy pieces that 
can take this bolt-head pressure and don't need a washer to distribute 
the load are often placed directly against the bolt head, with lighter 
stock protected from scarring and tearout by the washer under the nut.  
Haven't mentioned lock washers, etc. but that's for another post.  
Hope this helps.   --Buddy


From DMusgrave@swri.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DMusgrave@swri.edu (Dave Musgrave)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Source for SS Castings
Date: 3 Jul 1996 14:08:24 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute
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We're in need of a shop to make some prototype 17-4PH stainless
steel castings,  in the 6-8 lb range.  Please contact me directly
if you are interested in the details.

Also need some 2.5" OD, 0.070 wall 17-4 tubing (about 3 feet!)

Would like to find a job shop that works in SS fabrication too.

Thanks!
==================================================================
Dave Musgrave, Manager, Product Design                      
Southwest Research Institute       
(210) 522-3321, Fax (210) 522-5606  
DMusgrave@swri.edu        
==================================================================



From imlkent@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: imlkent@ix.netcom.com(Kent Frazier )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re: Cincinnati machines
Date: 3 Jul 1996 04:50:32 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Jul 02 11:50:32 PM CDT 1996

From: imlkent@ix.netcom.com(Kent Frazier )
Subject: Re: Cincinnati Lathes
To:  Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com>
You wrote:
>
>Does any one have any knowledge of Cincinnati lathes.  A dealer
>here(Seattle) has a  13x30 "traytop" model for sale.
I used one of the tray top series in school and have only worked on a
better lathe once since (Monarch EE 10x30)
While in school I toured the Cincinnati plant and was impressed w/ the
attention to quality control, this was well before the "quality
revolution", the philosophy there was that it was the responsiblity of
the machinist that produced each part to guarentee the fit of each part
to the whole.  The product was solid probably over engineered to a
saftey factor of 100% as no one wanted to be responsible for product
failure.  I can't speak to the service that the machine saw, but it is
a good prospect based on it's lineage.



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 01:24:54 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
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Wire mesh is measured by the number of openings per linear inch.

For instance, 98% of a container of cement (like concrete glue) should 
pass through a 200 mesh seive.  The larger the number the finer the 
openings.  Mining lamps used a fine mesh which would not let flame 
through.

"CC"

They gazed and gazed and still their wonder grew, 
That one small mind could hold everything he knew!



From P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it Sun Jul  7 15:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 3 Jul 1996 09:53:04 GMT
Organization: CNUCE inst of CNR (Italy)
Lines: 65
Message-ID: <4rdfu0$14he@serra.unipi.it>
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In article <alshinn-0207962333260001@ppp053-sf2.sirius.com>, alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) says:
>
>
>
>
>> : >Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
>> : >10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
>> : >It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.
........
I mean hydrofluoric acid, sorry for the error. Yes is used to etch glass, 
yes it is dangerous. I have omitted the "standard" safety warning, sorry.
To reduce the size of my error, i was speaking of using few drops of a water 
solution of HF, if you wear rubber gloves and operate in open air you must be
able to avoid any problem.
Here in Italy the 10% HF water solution  is sold freely has rust remover in small
plastic bottles.
There is a great difference if I use two drops of HF once in my life, using
reasonable safety rules respect to the worker that uses concentrated HF for work 
8 hours a day 5 days in a week, 48 weeks in the year for 30 o 40 years.
In continous use conditions almost all chemicals and metals and almost everything 
is more or less dangerous. I use often the tin-lead alloy for electronics, lead
is really dangerous, how many people observes special safety rules using lead
for home works?
The danger, at least for what I know, is related to the exposition time to
the danger source.
I tink that over extimating the danger is a true problem, a kind of safety
terrorism is present in several newsgroups.
Any comments about this?
.............
>>  The nasty stuff occurs MUCH later.  Flourine atoms are
>> rather mobile in tissue and cause displacement of calcium atoms in skin,
>> muscle, and bones (yes, it can migrate though enough flesh to reach the
>> bone.)  The long term effect effect of exposure (not even chronic
>> exposure) to HF is large increase in the risk of bone cancer.  Since I don't
>> work around the stuff, I don't know of other intermediate effects.
>> There is first aid kit available for HF exposure, which if used immediately,
>> binds the flourine atoms so that they can't migrate into the skin.
>> So, if you're going to work around HF, know about it's hazards and if
>> your're somewhat casual about safety, try to live near a hospital that 
>> has personel familiar with HF exposure and has the proper chemicals on hand
>> to treat you.
............

Sorry i am forced to cut because my news client refuse to mail a followup if the 
added text is less than included text. :-(

Ciao

Paolo


                            _______
                            TTTTTTT  
                            | | | | 
                          ===========
Paolo Zini                TTTTTTTTT
CNUCE institute of CNR    | | | | |
Pisa ITALY               ===========
P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it      TTTTTTTTT
                         | | | | |
                        ===========
                        TTTTTTTTT
                        | | | | |
                       ===========
 


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: 3 Jul 1996 01:14:13 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
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If you follow my examplee, you will build a shop, two stories, andlive 
upstairs while the house is being built.  Then--asthe tools are in place 
onthe floor level, justmove that living stuff into the house and you have 
lots of room to expand your enterprises.  Make the shop about 24X40 so 
you can be comfortable during transition.

Oh, yes, I still track in the fines but since I built on 2.5 acres wooded 
by D fir, hemlock, alder et al, you hardly see the shop produced stuff.

A friend who worked for a chemical supply outfit suggests that the 
hydroflouric acid be about 3%.  I think it reduces the iron so it doesn't 
stick to the fabric.

About the coffee cup, how can you tell how crudded up it is.

"CC"



From joe84@ihgp14.ih.att.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: joe84@ihgp14.ih.att.com (Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How do the get the sodium in the valves?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 15:11:32 GMT
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How do they get the sodium in the valves in the first place?

Joe

P.S. The thread on sodium in the valves was excellent. Kudos to those who
contributed.


From Robert_Blaske@petcosouth.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:38 EDT 1996
Article: 30748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert_Blaske@petcosouth.com (Robert W. Blaske)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Basic Lathe Info
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 23:02:36 -0400
Organization: Petco Design
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Hello,

I am a scale model builder and I have found myself wanting to lathe and
mill pieces for scratchbuild projects.  So I know very little about the
mysterious world you all are familiar with.

If you have a moment could you please tell me some basic
terminology/ideas.  Or if you can reccommend a good starting book, that
would help too, but your answers would be best.

Thankyou!  Here are the things I don't get...

What is the basic concept for creating "steps" and "gears"

headstock/tailstock?

"Swing over bed"/"Swing over carriage"

fly cutter?

dividing attachment?

collet?

Thanks!
-Robert


From jwcercis@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Large Measuring Instruments
Date: 2 Jul 1996 23:08:57 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Large Measuring Instruments For Sale

1. Helios 48 Inch Stainless Steel Heavy Head Vernier Calipers.  6 Inch Jaw
Depth.  Large, easy to read vernier scale.  Good to Excellent Condition. 
Asking $185  plus UPS charge.

2.	Starrett 48 Inch Vernier Calipers.  3 Inch Jaw Depth.  Well used,
but serviceable condition.  Asking $115  plus UPS charge.

Note: These calipers check out OK with a 12 inch Standard (Which is the
longest standard I have.)

3.	Mitutoyo Model 192 114 Digital Counter Type Height Gage.  24 Inch.
 Good Condition.  Asking $165 plus UPS charge.

4.	Taft-Peirce 72 Inch Precision Straight Edge.   I  cross section; 4
inches overall width with .5 inch square flanges and .35 inch thick web. 
Well used, but serviceable condition.   Asking $95 plus UPS charge.

5.	Scherr Tumico 26 to 41 Inch Inside Micrometer.  Includes wooden
case.  Well used, but serviceable condition.   Asking $65 plus UPS charge.

Located in North Western Pennsylvania.

Please respond to jwcercis@aol.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Software
Date: 3 Jul 1996 16:01:16 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Here it is:

http://ingress.com/~manderso/fbreath/mrm001.htm

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:39 EDT 1996
Article: 30751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cincinnati Lathes
Date: 3 Jul 1996 03:49:16 GMT
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Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com> wrote:
>Does any one have any knowledge of Cincinnati lathes.  A dealer 
>here(Seattle) has a  13x30 "traytop" model for sale.
Glenn, I looked at an 18" version and that is one impressive lathe. Parts cost the earth I'm 
told so its all in the condition of that particular unit. Cheers Bob



From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 04:00:19 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4rcr8j$4da@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward) wrote:
>I recenlty purchased one of those Taiwanese 9"X20" lathes (from Grizzley).  
>Well, I know it's not a Myford, but it seems to have posibilities, especially 
>at the price Grizzley is selling it at.
>
>Anyway, while trying to build some foolish thing, I bored out what I thought 
>was a 1-inch hole about 2.5" deep.  Turns out that the headstock was out of 
>allignment by about 0.0025/inch.  It is possible to adjust the headstock on 
>this lathe, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this.  I need to 
>measure both allignment with the ways AND perpendicularity.  I have dial 
>micrometer indicators.  I thought about using a short piece of 1/2 inch drill 
>rod in a Morse taper #3 collet, and taking measurments with an indicator 
>fastened to the cross slide.  (Bad part is, to get at the headstock adjustment 
>screws, I have to practically disassemble the entire thing.)
>
>Any suggestions for how to allign a headstock in general, or this type of 
>lathe in particular would be most appreciated. 
Will, have you trued your lathe? IE place a 3" round stock about 8" long in chuck, do NOT 
support end with center, let it hang. Take light cut [.002"], measure for taper. If present 
adjust one foot, you'll have think this out as to which way to go, recheck, recut, adjust, 
etc. I got mine to within .0002 taper in 6". Good luck Bob



From osan@netlabs.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demon Buddha <osan@netlabs.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Good brands of small taps and dies
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 12:02:56 -0400
Organization: Eventide Forge
Lines: 20
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Russell Horswood wrote:
> 
> I'm coming to the U.S.A. later in the year and I need to find out which
> are good brands of small taps and dies. The sizes needed are 0-12 in
> U.N.F. and U.N.C. As I'm from Australia I don't know which are America's
> best brands. Any advice will be appeciated.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Russ.Horswood

	Regal make nice stuff, though not so cheap.  I'm not sure they
	make anything as small as a zero series, but they may.

	For small stuff Morris is probably the best I know of but they
	are also $$.

	-Andy V.
-- 
"I have a high art; I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me"

                                -Archilocus, 650 BCE


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:40 EDT 1996
Article: 30754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <206@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <960701143153@seashore.ftp.com><4r9ddl$t1i@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 17:37:32 GMT
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Lines: 15

 
In article <4r9ddl$t1i@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, JHrisoulas (jhrisoulas@aol.com) writes:
>
>The term "silver steel" was used to describe a hardenable steel..a "tool
>steel" or a higher carbon steel...from the mild steel, wrought ieons in
>use at the time...
>

Apparently (insert disclaimer ;-) it was called silver steel
because, at one time, most work was either done in black steel or
in cr*ppy, rusty mild steel.  As this stuff is always bright and
shiny it stood out from the rest and got called... well, you
know...

 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From bernielama@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bernielama@aol.com (Bernielama)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Washers-when to use and when not
Date: 3 Jul 1996 00:38:37 -0400
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This may seem like a dumb question but I haven't found a definitive answer
in the FAQ for this newsgroup: Is there a "proper" situation to use a
washer? Is there ever a situation when one should not use a washer?

Here's a hypothetical: There is a typical "joint" where a bolt is used to
fasten a piece of sheet metal to a  piece of steel tubing which has a hole
drilled through a flattened end. Does it matter which side the nut is on
(touching the sheet metal or the tubing?) and should I use a washer on the
"nut side", the "bolt side", or both sides? Or am I just contemplating a
silly question and it really doesn't matter at all.

Also, does it matter whether I apply torque to the nut or the bolt (via a
wrench/rachet/etc)? 


From rhager@millcomm.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:41 EDT 1996
Article: 30756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Time-sensitive CNC news (long)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 01:19:04 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
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Hello to the group!

Things have been a little hectic lately so I haven't gotten on very much. I miss 
you guys!  Many of you have sent me email in the past few months asking if 
Ah-ha! was bringing out any lower cost CNC stuff.  I think the special that 
they're running at the office is the perfect answer for what you've asked me. 
I'm posting this note about it here, because it's time sensitive, and 'cause I 
only have to write one email this way instead of 50 !

Before the memo, a brief note on confusion with email addresses.  I've received 
literally a hundred catalog or demo disk requests in my personal mail.  I probably 
should have explained this before now, but I'm hardly ever at the Ah-ha! office.

I work independently, at a different location that I call 'my lab'.  Machining, 
electronics, optical, electrochemistry, and graphics arts, all in 1,100 square 
feet.  Fascinating dust and fume containment problems, believe me!  I mostly do 
electronic design for Ah-ha!, like motor drivers, PC plug-in cards, and such.

I'm very glad that you've asked me about Ah-ha! CNC controls.  I really do think 
they're a great value for the money, and they definitely have the best tech 
support going, but it's difficult for me to deal with the business side of 
things from here.

Please call the main office for sales stuff, at 612-641-1797 for human contact, 
8681 for fax, or if you like email better, send it to ahha@gdic.com   I always 
try to answer all technical questions sent to me personally, but please cut me 
some slack if it takes a month to get an answer.  These days I only get to log 
in every couple of weeks, and then have about 80 messages waiting!  Oh those 
aching fingers...

I realize this is pretty long, but I think there will be something of interest 
for anyone involved in a CNC project.  I just grabbed chunks of the memo off our 
network, and I can't see beforehand what it's going to look like when I paste it 
all into plain text and hit 'send', so it might be kind of choppy reading. 
Sorry.

---

Small-Shop Summer Specials.    For serious home machinists and hobbyists

This memo covers the attached leads and inquiries.  All these callers have 
expressed interest in getting our level of product (and our level of support) 
into a home or other small shop, if only it was just a few hundred cheaper.

As a form of market research into the potential of the professional level 
hobbyist market, the following deluxe bundled packages will be offered with a 
steep discount for a month.  The customer must purchase by July 31, 1996 to get 
these discounts.  Results will be discussed in August's marketing meeting to 
determine future support of this market.

Many people aren't aware of the big difference in speed and power between 2-amp 
12 volt toys and our full-size full-quality 6 amp 48 volt CNC, so emphasize that 
advantage, along with the excellent cut quality of microstepping, in your 
conversations with these potential clients.

Full $500 discount on a complete 6-amp system, ready to rock.

$2,426 price (was over $3,000) for our regular industrial 3-axis 6-amp 
Microstepping system, complete with three PS200 motors, CNC-Pro software, all 
cables, and a full set of limit switches.  They can bolt on motors and start 
cutting metal.  Most people want a low-hassle turnkey package, so mention it.

Be sure to mention too that all systems include a full one year warranty, not 
just 90 days like 'the other guys', and of course the usual top-notch Ah-ha! 
tech support.  Good support is as important as price or performance to people 
buying a technical product like our control.  Since most people have heard of 
our good rep for taking care of customers, it's worth bringing it up.

Options:

(Remember, we're known for our flexibility and customer service, so if you have 
to come up with some other combo of motors in order to match their needs, do it!)

-Substitute PS225 motors (size 34's) instead of PS200's: add $99
-PS450 motors instead of PS200's: Add $250 
-PS650 motors (wire in series for them) instead of PS200's: add $360
-Half-price upgrade to Artisan-CNC software at time of sale: add $197

---


Well, there was more 'salesy' stuff, but that's the gist of it. (Sales memos are 
so funny aren't they?  Reminds me of college football.  But I guess that's what 
it takes to keep a team focused, motivated, and in business for the long term.)

To try and make the above chunks more specific to the machines you've asked me 
about, here are some particulars.  By the way, these motor sizing notes would be 
applicable to any brand control, or even homemade controls, as long as you're 
using bipolar chopper microstepper drives.  If using L/R or unipolar drives, add 
40% to the motor sizes.

OK, here goes...

The main bundle is already just right for Sherlines, Prazis, Emco-Maiers, 
Smithys, gantry tables, or anything else 40-400 lbs.  In fact, it could easily 
drive a mill/drill too, using a 2:1 or 3:1 geardown of the motors, if you're 
short on dough.  But if you want torque -and- speed on the mill/drill, go for 
the PS450's.  That's what I use on mine, and it flies!

To the Shoptask owners that wrote me, note the sub for PS225's.  About the same 
torque, but perfect for Shoptasks since those castings are already set up for a 
frame size 34 motor rather than the size 23 PS200's.  Once again though, if you 
want torque -and- speed, go for 450's.

Although a 12 amp system is really the standard for Bridgeports, you -can- run 
the 650 motors just fine on 6 amps if you wire the coils in series.  You give up 
some rapid-travel rate, but the low to medium speed torque is the same as a 12 
amp system.

Three 650's are usually 1,100 bucks I think, so the $360 adder is probably a 
killer deal.  Voila, a Bridgeport-sized pro CNC rig for less than 3 grand.  Just 
what you bugged me about this spring!

Sorry you didn't get more notice of this.  I didn't even know they were doing this 
at Ah-ha! until it popped up on my screen here in the lab today.  But there's still 
four weeks to sweet-talk the mate and dig up a visa card! (mates go for that 
"it's on sale" stuff, right?)

This is even better than if they brought out low-end 2-amp systems.  It's the 
regular good-stuff with half a thou knocked off the price.  A Sherline or Prazi 
just screams on these controls.  I frighten myself sometimes with the 6-amp on 
my mill/drill.  And when I drill PC boards with a Techno table at 400,000 
steps/sec/sec acceleration it rocks the whole workbench back and forth!

Oh yeah, software.  Pro does just about anything you'd want, it's basically a 
Fanuc 6M on a PC.  But if you need continuous contouring and feedrate override, 
get Artisan.  You can always upgrade later too, but it'll cost $395 then.

Oh yeah #2, lathes. There's a 2-axis lathe bundle too. It wasn't in print yet 
but I asked.  High-end Artisan control software (to get the threading routines) 
spindle encoder, extra cables, etc..  They just added taper-threading too. 
(they're -always- adding something to the software.  I just can't keep up)

It's the same deal, a full 500 bucks off (comes out to $2,532 down from 3,032) 
and you gotta do it by July 31.  PS200's will handle any 3-9" lathe.  Use 450's 
for 10-14".  And if you're lucky enough to own of those gorgeous 16" LeBlond 
Regals which one of you mentioned, you might want a 650 for the Z and a 450 for 
the crossslide to be sure you have plenty of torque margin.  It's a beefy lathe.

Oh yeah #3, exports.  To my friends in the UK, Canada, and elsewhere, sorry, I 
never got a clear answer whether this was applicable to export orders or not, 
but I bet they'll do it if you offer 'em an extra 50 bucks or so to cover the 
paperwork hassle.


Whew! I hope that answered everybody's queries properly.  I really apologize for 
not sending a personal note back to each of you.  I'm just completely buried 
under right now.  I think I've only been fishing maybe twice or three times this 
year.  Caught some great smallie's last time out though...

Best of luck with your CNC plans. It's a great system and a great deal. I know 
you've been worrying over the decision because of the money, so I hope this 
helps you finally go for it.  CNC is wonderful!

 Richard
-- 

        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build stuff" So...     -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From r.lee@windshadow.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.net66.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!psgrain!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!ppp18.nantucket.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is silver steel
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 14:08:36 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 23
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <r.lee-0307961408360001@ppp18.nantucket.net>
References: <4r3iro$14o@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com> <BzcprBAMKE2xEwPB@wrighta.demon.co.uk>

 John G Wright <john1@wrighta.demon.co.uk> wrote:


> There are 2 types available in the UK the old type is not freecutting
> but spec KEA108 is capable of being cut with a slowly revolving
> gearcutter without the use of oil. I use it to make clock pinions
> (Gears) and harden it by heating to cherry red and plunging vertically
> in water. So it is not brittle I let it down to dark blue colour temper
> using blueing salts that melt at this temperature. If you need an
> address let me know. Both the steel and salts are available by mail
> order in the UK.

OK now we have an exact BS number for Silver Steel...

does anyone know what the ANSI Number (or letter designation) is that
corisponds to KEA108?

would it be W-1?

the usual response that Silver Steel = Drill Rod is not very exact as
there are so many forms of drill rod on the shelf...

~R


From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 23:33:26 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <alshinn-0207962333260001@ppp053-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rbi5d$9mq@fcnews.fc.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp053-sf2.sirius.com




> : >Rust marks can be removed using a water solution of HF (fluoridric acid)
> : >10% or 20% is fine. Make a test on a small piece of the same fabric.
> : >It works fine also to remove rust marks from stones.
> 
> : Uhh, in these parts HF is called hydrofluoric acid, and is used to
> : etch glass.  I imagine that it would remove rust, but the rust
> : particles I was referring to are from airborne dust settling on
> 
> Around here (an IC fab facility) HF is used and treated as a very hazardous
> chemical.  I seem to remember that as acids go, HF is a rather weak acid
> which if gotten on the skin, has the immediate effect of causing a red
> irritated area.  The nasty stuff occurs MUCH later.  Flourine atoms are
> rather mobile in tissue and cause displacement of calcium atoms in skin,
> muscle, and bones (yes, it can migrate though enough flesh to reach the
> bone.)  The long term effect effect of exposure (not even chronic
> exposure) to HF is large increase in the risk of bone cancer.  Since I don't
> work around the stuff, I don't know of other intermediate effects.
> There is first aid kit available for HF exposure, which if used immediately,
> binds the flourine atoms so that they can't migrate into the skin.
> So, if you're going to work around HF, know about it's hazards and if
> your're somewhat casual about safety, try to live near a hospital that 
> has personel familiar with HF exposure and has the proper chemicals on hand
> to treat you.
> 
> Tom Walley
> tmw@hpfitmw.fc.hp.com

I once got a *teeny*, *tiney* droplet of hydrofluoric acid on my hand and
immediately washed it off with lots of water and baking soda. Still, a
burn the size of a quarter came. I got scared and took it to the ER where
the Doc treated it just like a hydrochloric acid burn --wrong-  ! So be
aware that most docs wouldn't have a clue about wat to do. I was lucy,- no
scar or anything.


From alshinn@sirius.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:42 EDT 1996
Article: 30759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 23:35:11 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <alshinn-0207962335110001@ppp053-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <4rcc9j$jo@nw003.infi.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp053-sf2.sirius.com

In article <4rcc9j$jo@nw003.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) wrote:

> I have a question about wire mesh.  How is the size measured, like
> 100, 200 etc?.  Is the larger the number the wider the opening?
> What size would a 100 mesh be in fractions?
> 
> Jim Waggener

It's the number of holes per inch, so the larger the number, the smaller
the holes.


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 02:51:13 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 34
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4rd591$ot1@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <wjward.126.0012B5AF@umich.edu>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward) asked about truing up a tailstock on a
lathe: 

At gunsmithing school we had a truing bar. This was a 2 foot length of 1
inch diameter polished drill rod . It was center-drilled at each end.
The rod was placed in the lathe between centers, and was set spinning at a
fair RPM.
The dial indicator was atached to the tool rest and it was zeroed against
the bar at the head stock end.
The indicator was then moved to the tailstock end of the bar, and the
runout was then obvious. The tailstock was then adjusted a bit.
 It usually took about 5 or 6 adjustments to get it right , but it always
worked.
We were required to true our lathes everyday before we started so we got
pretty good at it, but we had Southbend lathes to start with.
The instructors would ocassionally tweak the lathes out of wack just to
see if we were paying attention.

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: 3 Jul 1996 02:55:31 -0400
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 stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev) said :

>ErnieLeim <ernieleim@aol.com> wrote:

>>
>>On a related note, I would recommend using either Inconnel or
>>Stainless
>>steel as filler for the TIG weld. I almost never use regular steel
>>filler
>>anymore. I use Inconnel 82 and 316L SS for most of my mild >>steel
welds.


>I recall being warned about welding with/to stainless steel, the >reason
>being the possibility of forming nickel carbide inclusions.

>Stan

Actually the only time I would worry about carbides forming is if the
piece was going into a corrosive atmosphere, or was going to be flexed
excessivly. I just find that using Inconnel and stainless makes for strong
clean welds with fewer pinholes and gas pockets. Basic steel has a
tendency to boil when tigging if there is any contamination at all.
Inconnel and stainless are more forgiving.

I would never mix metals if the piece was to be used underwater, since the
galvanic action would accelerate corrosion at the weld.

Thats all.


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From rhager@millcomm.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:43 EDT 1996
Article: 30762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  turbine engines (long)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 02:10:51 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 90
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> In article <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>, Craig Wall <cwall@swri.edu> wrote:
> 
> >     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
> >     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about 60 lbs or
> >     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
> >     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.
> along with some other comments towards a respondent to his original posting.
-- 

Hello fellow turbine crazies,

As a long-time aerospace nut, I just can't resist sticking my eleven cents in here. 
(I'm long winded, but mercifully infrequent, right guys?).

I'm lucky enough to have a scientist working for me who's a thermodynamics expert 
that worked for Rockwell for 15 years designing Space Shuttle main engines, among 
other projects.  In addition, he's written two textbooks on turbomachinery.

So I've asked him about all this on a number of occasions.  Frankly, it sounds like 
Craig is being a little optimistic and maybe shouldn't have jumped quite so hard on 
the kind respondent to his earlier post, who was actually correct in his comments.

It would be almost impossible to make the engine Craig describes within his weight 
target.  Theoretically sure, but not practically with any kind of materials 
workable in a home shop (or affordable by us!!).   

The power/weight ratio of a turbine (or any heat engine for that matter) is 
directly related to the combustion efficiency, which is highly dependent on the 
combustion temperature.  Temps in the working range of stainless steel (500-600 F) 
are way, way below efficient operation.  Stoichiometric burning (most efficient 
mixture) for jet fuel is around 3,000 - 4,000 degrees, I forget the exact number.

Military engines run upwards of 1,000 - 1,500 degrees, but are made of all kinds of 
exotics like Hastelloy, Inconel, exotic Titanium alloys, carbon-carbon, silicon 
nitride ball bearings, etc, etc.  Some of these materials cost over $1,000 -per 
pound- !!  Seriously!  These guys jump up and down when they squeeze another 50 
degrees out of their designs.

And that's just the materials problem.  Even -with- those materials, such engines 
-have- to use special film cooling techniques on internal rotating parts to keep 
the parts from literally evaporating ! (well, oxidizing and ablating away to be 
exact).

Notice I said 'rotating' parts.  The fluid distribution and sealing problems are 
truly incredible, and incredibly expensive to solve.  Even after all the above, 
you're looking at an MTBF (mean time between failures) of a few hours.  Between the 
engines and the electronics, most fighter aircraft must be serviced every 5 flight 
hours or so.  Not something I'd want -my- wife flying in.

As far as the comment someone made about the FAA not allowing a home-built jet, I 
don't have the FAR's in front of me, but I'm pretty sure the regs are quite loose 
on craft registered as 'experimental', although they may well keep you out of the 
TCA of major metro airports.  You probably also still have to meet noise and 
pollution specs.  It may not be tough to meet those specs, but it's going to be 
damn expensive to get all the measurements done by the required certified agencies.

Like Craig, I've dreamed about my own jet homebuilt for years, and in fact designed 
a 3,000 lb variable geometry wing supersonic two seat twin about ten years ago.  
However, building it would be a life-consuming project, literally, and I've got 
fish to catch, music to listen to, and newsgroups to participate in.  So I let it 
go.

I learned a hell of a lot from the exercise though, and boy did I have a lot to 
learn!  Many, many little hidden gotcha's, from the stress fracture temperature of 
materials, to the tribology of asymmetrically loaded bearings.  Great fun!

There -is- some incredible progress being made in 'tough' ceramics and even 
'engineered materials' (-designed- molecules, if you can believe it).  In another 
ten to twenty years, these materials may have become available enough to the small 
shop that such a high-temp but economical engine will be doable for us.  Not now 
though.

Crack a couple of books Craig and keep at it!  Even if you can't meet your current 
power/weight ratio target, if you learn enough about the inner workings and real 
engineering requirements of turbines, you are sure to be able to produce an engine 
with a completely usable ratio for a homebuilt.  Any pictures you post of your 
ongoing work would be greatly appreciated.

Good luck!


        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build things" So...    -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From r.brown.@deeside.ac.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: robert brown <r.brown.@deeside.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 09:12:24 -0700
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John Anderson wrote:
> 
> I use lots of .040 pre-finished aluminum.  It comes in 4x10' sheets, and
> I've been trying to reduce my reliance on outside metal shops simply to
> cut pieces to size.
> 
> I've got a panel saw in which I've put a rather fine-tooted circular saw
> blade (7 1/4").  It makes an acceptable cut on one side, but a horrible on
> on the other side (a continuous, ugly "burr").  Don't really have a
> precise method to check, but alignment seems good.
> 
> My question is if there is a way to get a good cut with a circular saw
> blade on sheet aluminum.  The blade I'm using is an inexpensive one -
> carbon steel with probably 10-11 tpi.  It's the only thing I've seen sold
> for aluminum cutting.  I have the blad set to penetrate the material about
> 1/4 inch.  If there's something better for this application I'd love to
> know about it.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
>    -John Anderson

You'll do well to cut straight aluminium with a saw, John, without 
raising a burr. If your saw is a bit on the fine side the teeth may be 
gagging on the chip, which is somewhat adhesive. Use kerosene as a 
lubricant and set the saw depth just to penetrate through. An air shear 
or nibbler is the better method, if your wallet will stretch that far.

			Regards
				Rob. Brown


From dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dclarke@marathon.lakeheadu.ca (Don Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cleaning cracks before TIG welding.
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 05:47:10 GMT
Organization: Lakehead University
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <4rd1dh$ai@bolt.Lakeheadu.Ca>
References: <203@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <4r024k$jte@newsbf02.news.aol.com><4r0tot$brd@nyx.cs.du.edu> <204@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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In article <204@lathyrus.win-uk.net>,
   djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) 
wrote:

>In article <4r0tot$brd@nyx.cs.du.edu>, Robert Galloway 
>>Have you given any consideration to opening up the crack  
snip
>>allows better cleaning and 100% penetration although I 
snip
>
>This is a possibility - I was considering "Dremelling" a 
>channel
>along the crack, but I want to minimise the loss of 
>material.  Of course, if I save material but make a poor 
>weld instead...

Dave, I would advise "V'ing" out any crack before TIG 
welding. Otherwise, you are just putting a patch on instead 
of fixing the problem. And the crack could work it's way out 
through the patch. One advantage of TIG is that you can 
control the amount of material you place in the weld, so you 
don't "save" anything by not properly preparing the 
weldment. However, if it is a bicycle frame you are welding 
on, I would recommend that you make very short, small welds 
and cool the area between each "weld". Myself, I use a 
pencil grinder to chase out a crack, but I suppose a dremel 
tool would do the same job...

Don


From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:44 EDT 1996
Article: 30765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photoetching
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:56:56 +0100
Organization: BTL
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In article <4r9d9u$6hu@st-james.comp.vuw.ac.nz>, BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz
(Lawrence Boul) wrote:

> In article <31D16362.40F7@worldnet.att.net>,
>    Patrick Giordani <PGiordani@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >Greetings,
> >
> >I am interested in trying my hand at photoetching for jewelry 
> >fabrication, but have absoluely no idea how to go about doing it or how 
> >to make the equiptment. If anybody has some suggestions, please email me 
> >at lddemi@aol.com.

> This technique is popular with the model railway fraternity.  Post to 
> rec.model.railroads.  Randy Gordon-Gilmour seems to be the expert on doing 
> this at home.  His methods with pics are archived on the 2mm scale
association 
> webpage run by Nigel Cliffe (I think).  Sorry I do not have the addresses to 
> hand.

Correct, thanks for the plug :-)  Randy's article on DIY etching is at:

http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html


Sorry for the obscure URL, one of these days we will get a more sensible
location, instead of piggy backing on university accounts.


- Nigel.

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From david@hoskin.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shareware Computer Index for Model Engineer, etc?
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:38:30 +0100
Organization: Home
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In the June 21st edition of 'Model Engineer' there was a reference (on
page 682) to shareware indexes for Model Engineer, Model Engineer's
Workshop, and Engineering in Miniature -but in a format readable only on
Acorn and RISC based computers.  If this is so, surely they should also
be available in PC format?  Does anyone have any information about this?
--                    
Regards,              **************************************************
David Hoskin          The business of finding fault is very easy: that
East Yorkshire, UK    of doing better, very difficult.(Francis de Sales)
                      **************************************************


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and die for acme threads?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 10:33:01 GMT
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In message <09960602131312.OUI58.SLogan@gnn.com> - SLogan@gnn.com
(Scott Logan)2 Jul 1996 18:14:00 GMT writes:
:->
:->Actually, it's not too bad.  1"-12 UNF is a LOT easier than 1-1/8"-8
:->ACME (Logan 14" Lathe Half Nuts).  Yes, I am speaking from personal
:->experience.  
:->

Ever try a 2"-4 1/2 tap? Now -thats- hard turning, even with a 6 foot
tap handle<g>.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From SLogan@gnn.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:45 EDT 1996
Article: 30768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Basic Lathe Info
Date: 3 Jul 1996 13:20:28 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 52
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In article 
<Robert_Blaske-0207962302360001@user-168-12
1-136-113.dialup.mindspring.com>, From Robert_Blaske@petcosouth.com
(Robert W. Blaske), the following was written: > Thankyou!  Here are the
things I don't get... >  > What is the basic concept for creating
"steps" and "gears" > 
> headstock/tailstock?
> 
> "Swing over bed"/"Swing over carriage"
> 
> fly cutter?
> 
> dividing attachment?
> 
> collet?

OK, since I have the right name for the Lathe questions, I'll tackle
some of those. But PLEASE listen to others too.

Headstock is the assembly on a lathe, usually on the left hand end, with
the power.  A chuck, faceplate, or collet (see below) is mounted to the
spindle (the shaft running through the headstock) and the workpiece is
mounted to or in that.

Tailstock is generally on the right hand end, and has a tapered hole
which can hold a drill chuck for drilling into the workpiece, or a
center to support the weight of the end of the workpiece while turning.

Swing is the DIAMETER which, when mounted on the spindle, will clear the
bedways.  This is usually pretty close to twice the height from the
bedway to the spindle centerline.  Swing over cross slide is the same,
but to clear the slide.  This is usually the largest diameter that you
can turn a length of material.

Collets are either workholders (for Lathe use) or toolholders (for mill
use), although there are exceptions.  These generally are steel devices
which, when drawn into a tapered seat will collapse and grip the part or
tool.  Generally very accurate, gentle but firm grip due to full
circumference grip.  Draw back is a very limited range per collet,
perhaps only a few thousandths of an inch.

Next!
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From wwebster@nortel.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 08:33:07 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <wwebster-0307960833070001@47.116.15.87>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <1996Jun28.070626.11699@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <wwebster-2806960745480001@47.116.15.87> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu <4rbdvm$hul@acme.sb.west.net> <31D9C1F3.2182@id.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

And, to add to this thread...

I realize the original message was not about model airplane jet engines,
but, the Taiwan company ThunderTiger, has in the 1996/97 catalog, a
turbine jet engine (along with several great pictures of it).  This is not
a ducted fan using a separate IC engine.  But, a real jet engine (if
you'll allow me to loosely use that term for lack of knowing the correct
term).  No price was listed, but it is to be available later this year.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From danlew@n-jcenter.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:46 EDT 1996
Article: 30770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Daniel Lewis <danlew@n-jcenter.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I need clipart or lineart of blacksmithing if you have any
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 17:31:50 -0400
Organization: News-Journal Center
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I publish a guide to arts and crafts shows in Florida called "Where
The Shows Are !!!".  This quarter our featured artist is a blacksmith
named Ben Rogers.  We would like our cover theme to reflect the
blacksmithing art and I need line art for that purpose but I can't seem
to find any.

If you have some that you think may be appropriate, please send it to me
via email.   I am running a PC and using Pagemaker to set this up so
just about any format will work.

Thanks in advance, and I hope to hear from you soon.

Dan Lewis

*********


From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:37:51 GMT
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In article <4rd591$ot1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes:

>At gunsmithing school we had a truing bar. This was a 2 foot length of 1
>inch diameter polished drill rod . It was center-drilled at each end.
>The rod was placed in the lathe between centers, and was set spinning at a
>fair RPM.
>The dial indicator was atached to the tool rest and it was zeroed against
>the bar at the head stock end.
>The indicator was then moved to the tailstock end of the bar, and the
>runout was then obvious. The tailstock was then adjusted a bit.
> It usually took about 5 or 6 adjustments to get it right , but it always
>worked.
>We were required to true our lathes everyday before we started so we got
>pretty good at it, but we had Southbend lathes to start with.
>The instructors would ocassionally tweak the lathes out of wack just to
>see if we were paying attention.

My dad put a razor blade between two centres and watched which way it bent.


From tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:47 EDT 1996
Article: 30772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tim Briggs <tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ball Screws and Linear Scales
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 10:33:00 -0700
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I am looking for some ball screws for a Bridgeport type milling machine. 
 I am try to convert the machine to CNC.  Also does anyone have 
information on where I might find some linear scales for the same milling 
machine.

Thanks very much.

tbriggs@msmail.rey.delcoelect.com
tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net


From Anders.arhammar@rmr.se Sun Jul  7 15:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Anders.arhammar@rmr.se (Anders Arhammar)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.sports,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay
Subject: Re: Need a LOT OF CASH, FAST? Play this WIN-WIN GAME. You CAN'T LOSE!
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 12:04:48 +0200
Organization: Reumatikertidningen
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <Anders.arhammar-0307961204490001@dialup114-1-4.swipnet.se>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.sport.hockey:62995 rec.collecting.sport.misc:8342 rec.collecting.stamps:31045 rec.collecting.villages:3533 rec.crafts.beads:7997 rec.crafts.brewing:94458 rec.crafts.carving:241 rec.crafts.dollhouses:1753 rec.crafts.glass:2628 rec.crafts.jewelry:12820 rec.crafts.marketplace:7989 rec.crafts.metalworking:30773 rec.crafts.misc:22076 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:6513

DONT DO THIS!

Dan Delaney
> *     1017 Rogers St.
> *     Louisville, KY 40204

WE DONT LIKE IT HERE IN EUROPE.

ANDERS

-- 
Anders Arhammar
Box 172
S-191 23 Sollentuna
SWEDEN


From rvanzant@van.inc.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: DANCAD/CAM
Date: 3 Jul 1996 15:46:06 GMT
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    Would anyone know where I can find dancam on the net?  Not dancad,
but cam, its companion product.  Assuming not, is Dan Hudgins, the author
on the net, or do I have to snail mail him?

thanks in advance,
bob

p.s.  looking for any and all homemade cnc machinery plans (hw and sw) so
pointers most appreciated.




From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:48 EDT 1996
Article: 30775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Basic Lathe Info
Message-ID: <1996Jul3.085053.23941@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 Jul 96 08:50:53 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <Robert_Blaske-0207962302360001@user-168-121-136-113.dialup, Robert_Blaske@petcosouth.com (Robert W. Blaske) writes:
|>
|>I am a scale model builder and I have found myself wanting to lathe and
|>mill pieces for scratchbuild projects.  So I know very little about the
|>mysterious world you all are familiar with.

I'd argue it's still mysterious to some of us, just less so!  :-)
First a minor nit:  "Lathe" is a noun, so you don't lathe stuff;
on the other hand, "mill" can be a noun or a verb.

|>If you have a moment could you please tell me some basic
|>terminology/ideas.  Or if you can reccommend a good starting book, that
|>would help too, but your answers would be best.
|>
|>Thankyou!  Here are the things I don't get...
|>
|>What is the basic concept for creating "steps" and "gears"

Not sure what you mean by "steps".  Gears can be made several different
ways.  For the home shop machinist, you first turn (cut) a blank on a lathe
to the proper outside diameter.  Then mount it on a shaft on a dividing head
in a milling machine and cut one tooth at a time.  Hard to describe without
pictures.  I'd rate this as an "advanced" operation for a home shop.

|>headstock/tailstock?

On a lathe, the headstock contains the spindle that is driven by the
motor, and is where you usually  mount the work (using a chuck or collet).
The tailstock is the sliding right-hand-side on which you can mount a chuck
(e.g. for drilling the work) or a center for supporting longer work.

|>"Swing over bed"/"Swing over carriage"

The largest diameter work that can be turned.  "Over bed" means over the
bed (rails) of the lathe; "over carriage" means over the travelling
carriage.

|>fly cutter?

A single-pointed cutting tool, usually used in a milling machine to generate
a clean flat surface.

|>dividing attachment?

Some sort of mechanism that allows you to rotate work in a number of
discrete steps, such as for cutting a gear.

|>collet?

A simple device to grab a workpiece or a tool.  A collet is usually not much
more than a tapered housing with a cylindrical hole, and slit partway up the
sides.  You slip the item into it, and draw the collet into a tapered closer
which forces the collet to grab the work.  They are usually more accurate
than a chuck.

I'd recommend you look at the FAQ for this newsgroup, posted here two days
ago, or available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal directory.
Or http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

In particular, Sherline makes a nice small lathe, a nice small mill, and
they offer a good beginner's book (can't remember the title).  Even the
catalog is instructive.

Also, Home Shop Machinist, and Projects In Metal, from Village Press are
(in the USA) "the" general-purpose magazines.  Several companies advertise
video tapes that are also fairly useful learning tools.

Jim


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted: engraving tools and supplies
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 10:01:29 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Wanted to purchase, engraving tools and supplies. GRS equip., vise, 
gravers, art books, gun books,etc. E-mail wcottr@worldnet.att.net


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:49 EDT 1996
Article: 30777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 17:43:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Lines: 20

 
In article <4rbm08$36u@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>, Ken McNair (mcnair@bnr.ca) writes:
>
>To keep from tracking in workshop crud you need to take
>your boots and overalls/apron off before you enter the
>"clean rooms".
> 

...or, put a square of old carpet at the exit to your workshop.  

I have an "astroturf" doormat there, which gets the swarf off my
shoes. It falls down between the "grass" and so doesn't get picked
up by the next person to walk along.  When cleaning time comes I
just pick it up, invert over my bin and waggled around a bit. 
Most debris falls off.

Doesn't help with the grease, though, but a piece of carpet would. 




David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From pevans@mindlink.bc.ca Sun Jul  7 15:18:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pevans@mindlink.bc.ca (philip evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do the get the sodium in the valves?
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:41:22 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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In article <4re2j4$mr2@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> joe84@ihgp14.ih.att.com (Joe) writes:


>How do they get the sodium in the valves in the first place?

Sub-contract to Cadbury.


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:50 EDT 1996
Article: 30779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Richard W. Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 16:45:40 GMT
Organization: SRI International
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I went through this operation on my 12" Jet lathe. I used a master
precision level, a dial indicator, and a 2-3" mike. First I levelled the
bed using a master precision level. Then, I chucked up a piece of 2-1/2"
aluminum in the 3-jaw with about 10" hanging out. Crucially, I did *not*
support the outer end with the tailstock! I turned down the mid-length
region of the bar to leave two narrow (1/2" wide) collars about 8" apart,
one close to the chuck jaws and one out at the end. I finish turned these
collars to the same, arbitrary diameter within a couple of tenths. Then,
without disturbing the chuck, I put an indicator on the saddle and set it
to center height and traversed across the collars. I moved the headstock
around until I got the same reading on each collar. Now I was roughly
aligned, so I removed the indicator and took a light cut on the collars
and miked them. They were off a little, so I tweaked the headstock some
more, took another light cut, etc. I was finally able to get it so it
turns less than 0.0001" taper in 8"! I doubt it will stay that way after I
sneeze once or twice, but it's as good as it's going to get.

You're right about getting at those screws. I had to take the dang motor
off to get at them, and that Taiwanese motor weighs a bloody TON.

In article <wjward.126.0012B5AF@umich.edu>, wjward@umich.edu (William J.
Ward) wrote:

> I recenlty purchased one of those Taiwanese 9"X20" lathes (from Grizzley).  
> Well, I know it's not a Myford, but it seems to have posibilities, especially 
> at the price Grizzley is selling it at.
> 
> Anyway, while trying to build some foolish thing, I bored out what I thought 
> was a 1-inch hole about 2.5" deep.  Turns out that the headstock was out of 
> allignment by about 0.0025/inch.  It is possible to adjust the headstock on 
> this lathe, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this.  I need to 
> measure both allignment with the ways AND perpendicularity.  I have dial 
> micrometer indicators.  I thought about using a short piece of 1/2 inch drill 
> rod in a Morse taper #3 collet, and taking measurments with an indicator 
> fastened to the cross slide.  (Bad part is, to get at the headstock
adjustment 
> screws, I have to practically disassemble the entire thing.)
> 
> Any suggestions for how to allign a headstock in general, or this type of 
> lathe in particular would be most appreciated.

-- 
Rich Klopp                      Do your parents know you're in here?
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shareware Computer Index for Model Engineer, etc?
Message-ID: <1996Jul3.102813.23942@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 3 Jul 96 10:28:13 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <0OumaFAGGj2xEw7s@hoskin.demon.co.uk>, David W Hoskin <david@hoskin.demon.co.uk> writes:
|>In the June 21st edition of 'Model Engineer' there was a reference (on
|>page 682) to shareware indexes for Model Engineer, Model Engineer's
|>Workshop, and Engineering in Miniature -but in a format readable only on
|>Acorn and RISC based computers.  If this is so, surely they should also
|>be available in PC format?  Does anyone have any information about this?

I don't know if this is the same index, but from the FAQ:

      A computer-readable index is apparently available from Henri Larose,
      covering about 30 years (growing as he gets time to do more).  Cost
      is 30 UK pounds if in the UK, or $30 US if in the US.  Contact the
      author vie e-mail at 73114.3203@compuserve.com.  Or, his mail address
      is 211 Lanitos Ave, Sunnyvale Ca 94086.

Jim


From psh@islandnet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 10:33:03 -0700
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P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini) wrote:

>I tink that over extimating the danger is a true problem, a kind of safety
>terrorism is present in several newsgroups.
>Any comments about this?

Although it is always good to err on the side of caution, I must agree
on your observation. The oxygen thread is a good example of 'safety
terrorism'.
Jens


From lairb@coastalta.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lairb@coastalta.com (Bill Laird)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SMITHY Recomendations?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 11:10:23 GMT
Organization: Houston Supernet& Tulsa Supernet
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A couple of weeks ago there was a post requesting information regarding
experiences with the SMITHY lathe/mill/drill.  There were no responses
that I saw.  I am contemplating purchasing one and would be very
grateful for any recommendations, pro or con, based on experience.

I am particularly interested in a comparison of the SMITHY with comparable
machines such as those China built units sold by Harbor Freight, ERCO,
Grizzly, etc.

>From  what I can see from the pictures in the colorful SMITHY brochure, the
finish and overall quality looks better than the pictures I have seen of
the Harbor Freight class.  SMITHY also offers full customer support and
accessories.

Anyone else interested in getting sales information from SMITHY may contact
them at SMITHY, PO Box 1517, Ann Arbor, MI 48106-9899, or 1-800-476-4849.

Although there is some discussion on the China built Harbor/ERCO/Grizzly
type machines in the FAQ, I could find nothing on SMITHY.  Is that because
it is a new product?

Any information would be appreciated.

Bill Laird
Houston, Texas



From F.Smith-IMService Sun Jul  7 15:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: F.Smith-IMService
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 06:29:40 -0700
Organization: Zippo
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: aa1-113.bizserve.com

Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam? 
I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough 
interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
home users.
          
          Best Regards,

          Fred Smith
          IMService

E-mail:  imserv@BizServe.Com
Voice:   810-486-3600
Fax:     313-486-3698

Snail:   Imservice
         P.O. Box 142
         New Hudson, MI 48165




From babcock@infi.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Ben)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sterling Question
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 14:46:29 +1000
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In article <4rbl8c$d99@news1.svc> Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> writes:
>From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
>Subject: Re: Sterling Question
>Date: 2 Jul 1996 17:11:40 GMT

>I am not a Sterling engine expert but when you observe
>the speed of a Sterling engine increase when the temp.
>of the hot side is increased, it tends to make me believe
>that the temperature differential is the driving force,
>not available energy.

Increasing the temperature increases the heat transfer into the hot end.  
Therefore expansions will be greater, forces will be higher, and the speed 
will be greater.  Remember Q=UA(delta T)

Tom




From john@siu.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:54:09 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 69
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Do not use angle iron for the beam.  To load it correctly you would have
to mount it in a V rather than an L.  That size angle is definately
inadequate.  Get a heavy piece of steel.  2 1/2 inche square tubing like
they use for trailer hitches would be fine.  Barring that, you may be
able to get a building support pole at the lumberyard that would carry
the weight.  Make sure you use at least grade 5 eyebolt.  I would prefer
grade 8.  Do NOT use regular hardware store hardware.  A 350 pound engine
could ruin your day if it dropped on your face!  

John


On 30 Jun 1996, H.Shrikumar wrote:

> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need to fabricate a home-brew version of a Porsche Special Tool to
> support the weight of an engine block. (Porsche wants $850 for what is
> but a bar and an eye bolt and a hex-nut!). I could use some pointers to
> on a couple of questions that should be a real easy cookie to you
> frequent fabricators.
> 
> The jig is basically a cantilever that rests on the fenders/wheel-well
> on the two ends on wood blocks, and hangs the engine-block by its
> lifting hook in the middle.
> 
>         20in                    32in
>   ----------------+------------------------------
>   ####            O                          ####
>   ####          350lb                        ####
>   ####                                       ####
> wood block,    eye-bolt in angle-iron bar, wood-block
> 
> 
> 1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
> (from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
> engine block up safely?
> 
> 2. How much would the beam flex under load? (I need to able to correct
> for that by tightening the hex-nut on the eyebolt).
> 
> Thanx in advance for an answer, or any pointers to a formula, or a good
> handbook that might have tables or formulae that I can apply quickly?
> 
> 3. What is the best way to orient the L-section ?
> 
> I am guessing this would be the strongest, given that the load is going
> to hang at about 10 degrees off the vertical slanting down towards the
> left in this cross section (side) view (with 1/2in hole for the
> eye-bolt):
> 
>                +-- | ---
>                |
>                |
>                |
> 
> Or is my qualitative reasoning very much in need of sobering up ?
> 
> Thanx very much in advance !!
> 
> 
> --//Shrikumar
> 
> '82 924 - "EA 425 Fahrvergnuegen"
> shri@cs.umass.edu
> 
> 
> 


From xcprhb@oryx.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 17:06:16 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 23
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4re9a8$isk@lm1.oryx.com>
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The sheet metal trade commonly uses either a screwdriver or a knife
driven w/ a hammer to cut ductwork.  I've seen it done twice.  There
is some metal deformation, so it may not suit your needs, but it
does work and it's VERY quick, albeit a bit noisy.

Friction sawing w/ a circular saw w/ a steel blade put on BACKWARDS
also works.  It's noisy and flings shreds of metal everywhere.  I've
never seen the edge it produces, so it also may not be suitable.

BTW a sheetmetal deburring tool at $5-10 will eliminate the burr quite
quickly and a very reasonable price.

Have fun!

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

                       Consultant/Programmer 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From slvrsmth@ids.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Herman <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Wanted: Shop Talk articles
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 05:19:23 -0700
Organization: Society of American Silversmiths
Lines: 11
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Always interested in receiving technical tips and techniques for 
silversmiths.  If we use your paper, it will be credited with your name, 
address, phone, and E-mail address.  Take a look at what we already have 
by going to the "Shop Talk" page on our site.
-- 
Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help in mechanical design
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:53:47 +0100
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Lines: 22
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T Lipton writes
>
>> Here is a Stainless Steel stand I want to build.  I would like to make
>> it out of square tubing, maybe 3/4".

>The stand you have described in your post would easily support the load,

agreed
>but in my opinion would be a little wobbly with three hundred pounds on it.

agreed

>If I was asked to design a similair stand I would not even consider
>anything less than one and a half inches square for the tube. 

hmm, for simplicity of construction, yes, but if I were designing for
minimum weight and maximum stiffness, then I would consider either small
section tube with cross bracing to triangulate it, or a sheet metal box. 


-- 
Charles


From slvrsmth@ids.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: engraving tools and supplies
Message-ID: <31DA5789.1628@ids.net>
From: Jeffrey Herman <slvrsmth@ids.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 04:20:41 -0700
References: <4re961$pro@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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PostBill Cottrell wrote:
> 
> Wanted to purchase, engraving tools and supplies. GRS equip., vise,
> gravers, art books, gun books,etc. E-mail wcottr@worldnet.att.net 
Post a FREE ad in the "International Silversmiths' Tool Exchange!"
-- 
Jeffrey Herman, Executive Director
Society of American Silversmiths
PO Box 3599, Cranston, RI 02910 USA
Tel: 401/461-3156, Fax: 401/461-3196
E-mail: slvrsmth@ids.net
WWW: http://www.ids.net/~slvrsmth/sashome.htm


From xlch58@netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: What've I got here
Message-ID: <xlch58Du02py.KG0@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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philip evans (pevans@mindlink.bc.ca) wrote:
: My dad left a lathe and mill in the basement when he rose above us all.  The 
: mill is a Brown & Sharpe and the lathe is a Rudel.  

: The mill is a sort of henry-moore style casting, flat leather belt and stepped 
: pulley. The casting says 1893 on it.  Dad mounted a 4-speed gearbox on top, 
: and there's a biggish (to me) electric motor off to the side.  The vise has a 
: crack in it and when I took it to a real machine shop they looked and said it 
: was cast iron and they could/would not weld it.  There's a dividing head, and 
: a vertical attachment - it fits in the spindle and clamps on the arm that 
: hangs over the bed.  This has its own leather belt (that was about a million 
: years dry, soaked up a lot of neats foot oil).


Sounds like you have got a #1 Browne and Sharpe Universal Milling 
machine.  I have got one of these beasts also.  Lindsay Books has got the 
original operators manual for one of these in their catalog.  It is 
called " Design and Construction of the Universal Milling Machine"
Make sure you keep the spindle well lubricated as they are a steel shaft 
riding in a cast iron bearing.  It will last for ever if you keep it 
oiled (at least mine seems to have)  Mail me your number if you would 
like to discuss particulars in more detail.  If the dividing head is 
original, then it was originally called a spiral head.


From quester@206.136.149.10 Sun Jul  7 15:18:51 EDT 1996
Article: 30791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Erm Centofanti <quester@206.136.149.10>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: wanted: Cone Roller
Date: 3 Jul 1996 18:36:37 GMT
Organization: Brick Township
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If anyone knows of a cone roller for sale, please contact me.
Pexto made one many years ago,hand operated.Any considered.

quester@thecore.com



From jelkil@interaccess.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jelkil@interaccess.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Wanted
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 20:48:15 GMT
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On 2 Jul 1996 20:59:30 GMT, gel@anchor.ho.att.com
(G.LENNER(HOH722)938) wrote:

>
>WANTED --- WANTED --- WANTED --- WANTED --- WANTED
>
>I'm looking for a used vertical band saw for metal cutting. My preference
>is for an older model (e.g. Walker Turner, Powermatic, etc.)
>with a cutting capacity of about 14-16in. Any leads would be appreciated.

I might be able to get you a very large do-all cheap,(I think its a
30") let me know if you are interested.

I have a 20" delta wood saw that you could fit with different pulleys
if you wanted to- 1.5 hp, $1100

reply via email    jelkil@interaccess.com

tom



From zircarmk@warwick.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:52 EDT 1996
Article: 30793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Thomas Hamling <zircarmk@warwick.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: [Q] Look for simple high temp (1800 C) rated refractory
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 04:11:51 -0700
Organization: ZIRCAR Products, Inc
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C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> Currently I use YTONG (air-spaced gypsum inner wall blocks, normally
> not designed to be used as refractory, but it works excellent) as
> refractory for a furnace holding a crucible for melting metals like
> copper, silver, etc. It works well until 1350 C. I just carve out a block
> which is the space where the torch heats the crucible.
> But heating it up till 1450 C (melting cast-iron) or higher (using
> carbon arc instead of propane torch) the inner wall melts down to a white hot
> slurry of molten CaSO4 with dissolved CaO (and silica ?) which is very
> sticky and attacks Hessian (alumina) crucibles.
> Chamotte is no option, as it is *very heat-soaking*. It 'costs' about
> 200 degrees in maximum temperature.
> I look for a 'refractory' like 'YTONG' which is *very* insulating but which
> can withstand 1600-1800 C without sticking to the crucible. Or can one make
> it yourself by mixing crushed/powdered gypsum with magnesia and then
> 're' baking it ?
> Even lining the inner walls of a carved YTONG block (which I use now)
> with this 'refractory suffices.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Klaas


check out our home page at http://www.zircar.com for information 
regarding high temperature insulating products. for the range of 
1600-1800 c alumina fiber insulation. It retains its strength at those 
temperatures betterthen fibrous zirconia.

I hope this helps.

thom


From adrianw@cassius.ee.usyd.EDU.AU Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adrianw@cassius.ee.usyd.EDU.AU (Adrian Whichello)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 23:18:55 GMT
Organization: Department of Electrical Engineering, Sydney University
Lines: 13
Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <4rev4v$36s@metro.usyd.edu.au>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cassius.ee.usyd.edu.au

You could use a router and an end mill (although if you're too poor to buy a
shear, maybe a router is beyond your pocket as well :-).  I once used this
combination for a project to build a low cost microwave antenna that was made
>from  a stack of several sheets of 1/16th Al. The router followed special curves
cut on a master, but a straight cut would be no problem. Left a very nice edge,
with no burring.

Adrian Whichello                           Phone: +61 2 351 4824
Imaging Science and Engineering Laboratory  Home: +61 47 588 319 
Sydney University Electrical Engineering     Fax: +61 2 351 3847
Australia                                  Email: adrianw@ee.usyd.edu.au

"I wish to God these calculations had been executed by steam!" - C. Babbage


From shockey@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 17:05:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com>
References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com>
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In article <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> F.Smith-IMService writes:

>Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam? 
>I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
>Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough 
>interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
>home users.


Well, depending upon how the pricing thing goes, 
I may be interested in a deal like this. Please, 
keep us posted, Fred.


Thanks, 


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:53 EDT 1996
Article: 30796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dtzops.1HI@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <felice.110.31D88757@pioneer.net> <Dtx9nt.FzE@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rchh5$k3t@news.whidbey.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:49:03 GMT
Lines: 24

In article <4rchh5$k3t@news.whidbey.com>,
Clarence Noyer  <ccnoyer@whidbey.com> wrote:
>If you follow my examplee, you will build a shop, two stories, andlive 
>upstairs while the house is being built.  Then--asthe tools are in place 
>onthe floor level, justmove that living stuff into the house and you have 
>lots of room to expand your enterprises.  Make the shop about 24X40 so 
>you can be comfortable during transition.

A good suggestion, and you end up with a finished shop as a result.  I
sure could use heating and cooling in my shop - 110+ degF in the summer
daytime, 40 degF in the winter.

>A friend who worked for a chemical supply outfit suggests that the 
>hydroflouric acid be about 3%.  I think it reduces the iron so it doesn't 
>stick to the fabric.

Most common bleach will do the same job without the added HF risk.

>About the coffee cup, how can you tell how crudded up it is.

Well, when it's my office cup you can't (I developed the bad habit of 
never cleaning my coffee cup 'cause people would never steal a dirty
cup.  After a while they won't even touch it.).



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Help: Machinist needs laundry suggestion...
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DtzotL.1JA@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <4rbm08$36u@bmdhh222.bnr.ca> <207@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:51:21 GMT
Lines: 8

In article <207@lathyrus.win-uk.net>,
David William Jenkins <djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net> wrote:
>Doesn't help with the grease, though, but a piece of carpet would. 

Carpet doesn't really help enough - I have to walk across 6-8 feet of
rugs in the garage to get into the house and even rubbing my shoes on
the carpet there are the spousal complaints.



From koehler@ptw.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:54 EDT 1996
Article: 30798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <31DB66B4.407F@ptw.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 23:37:40 -0700
From: Kevin <koehler@ptw.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how do you clean components for oxygen service?
References: <1996Jun18.151835.6489@verifone> <4qpb6g$7o4@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> JIMMY ARAKAKI:INDUSTRIAL DESIGN/VISUALIZATION SM2-SFO (james_a@verifone.com) wrote:
> : can anyone tell me how to clean hoses, fittings, valves etc for gaseous oxygen
> : service?
> 
> : I realize that this is potentially dangerous. Folks at welding supply shops
> : will not talk about it for fear of lawyers.
> 
> : my specific application requires handling oxygen at about 125 PSI.
> 
> I am no expert on this, but I am pretty sure the process is done using
> a solvent such as acetone.  You wash 3 times in acetone, blowing dry with
> filtered air each time.  The 2nd and 3rd wash are with a fresh batch of
> acetone, of high purity grade.  The blowing dry is to blow off the last
> drops of solvent, so that any dissolved oils don't remain as the solvent
> evaporates.  If the material is compatible with oxygen service, ie
> stainless steel, then a tiny bit of remaining oil will not cause a massive
> explosion, but may ruin the part.  If a tiny bit of oil is on a material
> not compatible with oxygen service (ie a metal that can burn more easily)
> then you may set a line or regulator on fire, which can be pretty
> spectacular.  That is why the double precaution of material and
> cleanliness is taken.  Note that some O rings may be porous enough to
> absorb oils deeply, so that the quick cleaning bath will not remove the
> oils.  These rings may be of a material type approved for oxygen, but if
> they are contaminated by oil once, they can never be used with oxygen.
> Many oxygen systems now use a lot of teflon seals, which are supposed to
> avoid this problem.


Just want to tell you that pure oxygen will burn when it comes in contact with
any petroleum products like oils, grease, and solvents.  There are documented 
cases where a ladies makeup was burnt off her face when pure oxygen hit it.  I 
would call the manufacture that produced the oxygen and ask them what they 
recommed to clean your hoses, fittings, and valves.  If you still can not get a 
answer I would buy new equipment (I know it hurts) because the money you spend on 
the equiment will be cheaper than the hospital and replacing the damaged parts.

Kevin


From writt@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DANCAD/CAM
Date: 3 Jul 1996 19:56:09 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <slrn4tl5gk.uk.rvanzant@van.inc.net>, rvanzant@van.inc.net
(Robert Van Zant) writes:

> Would anyone know where I can find dancam on the net?  Not dancad,
>but cam, its companion product.  Assuming not, is Dan Hudgins, the author
>on the net, or do I have to snail mail him?
>
>thanks in advance,
>bob
>
>p.s.  looking for any and all homemade cnc machinery plans (hw and sw) so
>pointers most appreciated.
>
>

Try  Dan Mauch, dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com. He can be a great deal of help
to you  on the cam software and the machine designs.

Bill Rittner


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:55 EDT 1996
Article: 30800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl13.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 17:15:51 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 25
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com

In article <4rcc9j$jo@nw003.infi.net>,
Jim Waggener <creativ@norfolk.infi.net> wrote:
>I have a question about wire mesh.  How is the size measured, like
>100, 200 etc?.  Is the larger the number the wider the opening?
>What size would a 100 mesh be in fractions?
>
>Jim Waggener

If you are just getting wire screen then the opening may depend on the 
wire size as much as anything.  However, for standard Tyler Screens made 
by Combustion Engineering, the following ASTM specs are relevant:

6 mesh     0.132"
40 mesh     0.0165"
100 mesh    0.0059"
200 mesh    0.0029"
400 mesh    0.0015"

I am not sure if you can calculate the mesh sizes as a linear function 
but this gives you an idea.  The size of the wire changes in addition to 
the space between them.

BTW, I have a bunch of these for sale if anyone is interested.  E-mail me.

JerryK


From soltherm@cdsnet.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soltherm@cdsnet.net (solar trough guy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
Date: 4 Jul 1996 00:05:17 GMT
Organization: International Solar Collectors , Inc.
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Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????

Am I supposed to set something so that I can have articles
two weeks long. Like today, 7/02/93, there are only five articles
to read!  What ever happened to threads. Am I missing something?
I had CDSNET and had plenty of threads. Now I have chatlink,
and nada.. They wont answer this question. Any ideas?

Any response to this will be gone in two days - sucks..





From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl13.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: wanted: Cone Roller
Date: 3 Jul 1996 17:46:12 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 19
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In article <4reejl$200@wolfen.thecore.com>,
Erm Centofanti  <quester@206.136.149.10> wrote:
>
>If anyone knows of a cone roller for sale, please contact me.
>Pexto made one many years ago,hand operated.Any considered.
>
>quester@thecore.com
>

Sorry for the question, but isn't this just a bending roll?  You cut the 
sheet metal in accordance with calculations and roll it in a straight 
roll to get a sheet metal cone.

Or are you talking about the Pexto beading machine that is 
equipped with special die rollers?  These are around used machinery 
dealers for $300 on up depending on the size, but probably not with much 
tooling.

JerryK


From jmikemjm@sprynet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:56 EDT 1996
Article: 30803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmikemjm@sprynet.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: machine tools and machine tool repair and inventions
Date: 4 Jul 1996 02:33:37 GMT
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For all of your machine tool needs and repair or fabrications contact Ron Harris at Harris Machine Tools Odessa, TX
915-550-0449. We invent, design, fabricate and deliver form Alaska to Louisana machine tools of a high precision automatic
design. If you do not wish to pay high R & D prices we can deliver. References available upon request. We cannot deliver 
tolerences below 3 millionths at this time. We are mainly set up for Oillfield releated work, but we  have delivered work for NASA
and other Government agencies. Please call us for your machine tool needs.


From chrsrohr@nh.ultranet.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.ultranet.com!exeter-01-10
From: chrsrohr@nh.ultranet.com (Christopher David Rohrer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Needed; 316L S.S.  Suppliers local to NH ????
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 96 08:24:19 GMT
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I am looking for small amounts of Surgical Stainless Steel wire in Brown&Sharp 
guages 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 0, and 00. 

Preferrably Local to New Hampshire, or mail order. 

Please email me directly as I do not check this newsgroup often. 

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Chris Rohrer 
chrsrohr@nh.ultranet.com


I 


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!psgrain!iafrica.com!pipex-sa.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl13.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 17:40:23 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4rf3tn$34b@crl13.crl.com>
References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com

In article <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com>,  <F.Smith-IMService> wrote:
>Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam? 
>I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
>Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough 
>interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
>home users.
>          
>          Best Regards,
>
>          Fred Smith
>          IMService
>
>E-mail:  imserv@BizServe.Com
>Voice:   810-486-3600
>Fax:     313-486-3698
>
>Snail:   Imservice
>         P.O. Box 142
>         New Hudson, MI 48165
>
>

I would be interested.  But remember that yesterdays software is like 
last weeks newspaper in value.  A grand daddy like Autotrol used a long 
time ago by Boing, etc. is now freeware, for all practical purposes.  On 
the other hand a decent cad program that converts to cam, even in 3-axis 
using limited G-code output would be worth at least $25.00 more than the 
cost to make and ship the disks.  My comments are for the first real 
bug-free commercial version and that has to be quite a few versions past.

JerryK



From bjc@nworks.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:57 EDT 1996
Article: 30806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!rain.fr!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!connix.com!nworks.com
From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 21:22:54 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HENROB 2000 torch any
Message-ID: <tcpnntpd.16.7.3.21.22.54.2645935021.631697@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks Online Service
NNTP-Posting-Host: nworks.com
X-MajorTCP-Version: MajorTCP/IP [1.86-10]
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-=> Quoting Int:blake@ncweb.com to ** All ** <=-

 In> I like my Henrob torch.  I use it mainly for light welding,
 In> brazing, and soldering.  I works real nice and uses much
 In> less pressure than conventional torch.  I only used it for
 In> cutting one time, but I'm so

Where does one obtain one and how much does it cost?

Regards,
Brad Chaucer
BChaucer@ix.netcom.com

... Character must not matter - Ted Kennedy is still in the Senate
___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Sun Jul  7 15:18:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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>shri@cs.umass.edu (H.Shrikumar) wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>
>>I need to fabricate a home-brew version of a Porsche Special Tool to
>>support the weight of an engine block. (Porsche wants $850 for what is
>>but a bar and an eye bolt and a hex-nut!). I could use some pointers to
>>on a couple of questions that should be a real easy cookie to you
>>frequent fabricators.
>
>>The jig is basically a cantilever that rests on the fenders/wheel-well
>>on the two ends on wood blocks, and hangs the engine-block by its
>>lifting hook in the middle.
>
>>        20in                    32in
>>  ----------------+------------------------------
>>  ####            O                          ####
>>  ####          350lb                        ####
>>  ####                                       ####
>>wood block,    eye-bolt in angle-iron bar, wood-block
>
>
>>1. Does 1/8" x 1.25" x 1.25" x 60" (L-section) galvanized angle iron
>>(from ACE) have a high enough buckling strength to hold the 350lb
>>engine block up safely?
>
>>2. How much would the beam flex under load? (I need to able to correct
>>for that by tightening the hex-nut on the eyebolt).
>
>>Thanx in advance for an answer, or any pointers to a formula, or a  snip

I had a similiar situation with an Audi about two years ago.  Sounds
like basically the same lifting arraingement, except the lifting
point for the Audi was approximately centered. ( I needed to remove the 
oil pan and on this car this required removing the subframe, which 
required that the engine be supported).

I used to 2x4s on end.  I used wood spacers between the 2x4s and
screwed the assembly together.  I had a heavy eye bolt that I passed
in between the 2x4s. I do not know how much weight was supported.
The Audi 4 cylinder engine was partially supported by the trans-
mission.  Note:
    *I did not use the eye bolt to lift the engine. I  placed
a floor jack under the engine and lifted it with the jack.  I then
tightened the eye bolt to remove any slack, then lowered the floor
jack.
    * I rigged up a support under the engine to act as a
fail safe in case of eye bolt shear.  When I was anywhere near
being under the engine I had multiple additional supports.

I had originally planned to fabricate a support out of steel
tubing, but I rigged up the 2x4 support in about 15 minutes and
eyeballed the deformation (wasn't much) when I released the floor
jack. .... it worked for me.

-Roger 





From gmajor@davlin.net Sun Jul  7 15:18:58 EDT 1996
Article: 30808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!esiee.fr!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!world1.bawave.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news2.cais.com!news
From: "Greg Major" <gmajor@davlin.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Polishing bronze
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:55:09 -0500
Organization: Outland Solutions
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cc-dup-69.davlin.net
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1080

Greetings all!  I've got a quick question.  How can I go about
polishing/buffing a bronze piece?  The item in question is a snare drum
shell.  It's approximately 14 inches in diameter and 6.5 inches tall with
a fairly consistent thickness of about a tenth of an inch or so.  There
are a couple of factors to keep in mind:

1) The piece must not be subjected to temperatures high enough to warp the
metal.  In other words, the thing's gotta stay nice and round.  I don't
know if achieving these temperatures are possible using a buffing wheel,
but I thought I'd mention it.

2) There is an existing laquer sprayed over the metal, however, time and
neglect have taken their toll and eaten through in spots.  This is the
whole reason I'm doing this in the first place.  What is the safest way to
remove the laquer without damaging the metal?

I took the item to a local plating/polishing shop and they wanted $95 US
to put it through some acid bath, polish it, and laquer it.  This seemed
like an outrageous amount of money, but I could be wrong.  I also have 20
pot metal items (the drum lug casings) which are small enough to fit in
the palm of my hand.  They have an existing chrome which is in fair
condition.  The same plating shop wanted about $15 US to re-plate EACH
item.  This also seemed like highway robbery as I am somewhat familiar
with the chrome plating process and, unless the material cost is high,
couldn't see how they justified that much money.  Lucky me... I think I
can salvage the chrome with a can of wadding polish and some elbow
grease.

TIA!
Greg Major
-- 
...and I've got the pistol so I'll keep the pesos... yeah, and that seems
fair!
- The Refreshments


From rrice2@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30809 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!esiee.fr!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Low Temp Differential Sterling Engine?
Date: 3 Jul 1996 22:32:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <babcock.8.00148434@infi.net>, babcock@infi.net (Tom) writes:

>I probably missed this thread already, but I'm looking for plans for a
low 
>temp differential stirling cycle engine.

Jin Senft has just published a book on a LTD Stirling with plans. You can
get it from Moriya Press, PO Box 384, River Falls, WI 54022. Price is
13.95 including postage.

Roy Rice


From wjward@umich.edu Sun Jul  7 15:18:59 EDT 1996
Article: 30810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Another Grizzly G1550/G4000 Headstock question
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:58:17
Organization: University of Michigan - Michigan OnLine
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I first must thank those who answered my first post about headstock allignment.

Now I have a slightly different question.  The Grizzly G1550 8"X18" lathe is 
the same as the new G4000 9"X19" lathe.  I have the G1550.  The headstock is 
fastened to the bed by four headless set screws that screw into the bed at the
four corners of the headstock, four split lock washers, and four nuts.  To 
adjust the alignment of the headstock, there are four small set screws that 
press against the attaching studs at right angles.  It seems that when these 
adjusting screws are tightened up against the studs, the studs bend slightly.  
Then, when I tighten the nuts on the studs down to secure the headstock in 
place, it moves!

I've been thinking of changing the adjustment method.  Perhaps there is a 
better way to fasten it down.  Perhaps using four long set screws as studs 
isn't the best way to do it.  Another idea I've been tossing around is 
drilling a hole in the bottom center of the headstock for a bolt to clamp it 
to the bed first, before tightening the stud nuts.

Aside from this problem, however, I do think that the Grizzly G4000 (if it is 
indeed the same as my G1550) is not a bad buy for $795 (US).

[Anyone with this lathe might also watch out for the cross slide 
tightness adjustment screws.  They aren't long enough.  I stripped mine. 
Replaced them with long ones.]


From mettlewk@cris.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!news.sol.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: Gene Olson <mettlewk@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I need clipart or lineart of blacksmithing if you have any
Date: 4 Jul 1996 03:27:42 GMT
Organization: This is INCREDIBLE,  but what do you do for a living?
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4rfdne$fmc@tribune.concentric.net>
References: <31D99546.58C6@n-jcenter.com>
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If you can use PCX and unzip a file,

Try Franklin Garland's home page at: 
http://www.mcs.net/~frnklyn/homepage/ 
go to    Blacksmithing and Metal Art Resources  
       check at the bottom of the page.

You could also try some of the stuff on the Abana site, (links on same 
page.)

Gene
-- 

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson  Metals, Stone, Mixed Media
  8600 NE O'DEAN AVE, ELK RIVER, MN 55330
  URL: http://www.concentric.net/~mettlewk/




From bedii@nwlink.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bedii@nwlink.com (Bruce Durocher II)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 4 Jul 1996 04:26:14 GMT
Organization: Northwest Link
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <4rfh56$mfd@texas.nwlink.com>
References: <4rb5r7$rm7@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <4rbfis$sp8@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bart Smaalders (barts@Eng.Sun.COM) wrote:

: My _guess_ is that the Gluhareff "pressure jet" engine works as follows:

: The (liquid) propane is taken from the tank (under vapor pressure ~100 or more 
: psi) and heated in the combustion chamber ( a nice way of cooling the walls
: a bit, btw).  This causes the propane to vaporize and _greatly_ increases the 
: volume and hence the speed.  This hot jet of pressurized propane vapor is then
: introduced into a series of venturi not unlike those in a steam injector which
: converts the momentum of the hot propane into pressure and mixes the propane
: with the appropriate amount of air for combustion.

: The idea seems straightforward enough, but if the venturi are anything
: like those in a steam injector, there are a lot of quite tight
: tolerance and lots of small precision tapers and bores.  

	Based on the two sets of plans I have seen (the 80# thrust models 
in the flying platform I have plans for, and the 25# thrust models in the 
backpack helicopter plans I had that were destroyed by accident), the 
venturi aren't *that* fiddly.  In fact, the welding job on the version 
built by Mechanix Illustrated magazine looks downright primitive...

: The calcs for
: a beast like this are tricky, since there's a lot of interdependent
: stages (multiple venturi and a regenerative heating system for the
: propane).  My guess is you have to start it with a large "weed burner"
: type torch, and that combustion could be a little erratic, esp. if much
: throttle control was wanted.

	Both sets of plans that I have owned used glow-plug type 
ignition for the jets.  The tricky part on the backpack helicopter was 
constructing an electrical connector to carry current from the ignition 
switch on the handle to the engine on the blades...

: If these jets really do work (they've got "Tesla turbine" written all 
: over them :-)), 

	Ask Interlibrary Loan for Science & Mechanics May 1973, pages 42, 
43, 88, and 92.  I can't find the Mechanix Illustrated issue that I have 
for the page numbers, but the Reader's Guide to Periodical Literature 
should have it.

: this would be a kick to put on a small go-kart
: and run in the desert.

	The old Gluhareff product literature showed stills of the gent 
who built the twin-engined cart racing a dragster.  The Science & 
Mechanics article's author says that the version Gluhareff built for his 
kids had slow accelleration, but that Gluhareff had broken 60mph at Palm 
Springs Airport in 1972 using a 40# thrust model.


From kmalleck@flash.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:00 EDT 1996
Article: 30813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kmalleck@flash.net (Kelly Malleck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Crafts An' Tiques offers No-Risk advertising!
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 05:05:40 GMT
Organization: Flash-Net Internet Service Provider, 888-FLASHNET
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4rfjlp$j9@excelsior.flash.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: p2-115.flash.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

We have a rapidly growing award winning on-line Craft, Gift, Antique,
and Collectible Mall and invite you to join us!  We are offering free
setup, no monthly fee, personal and friendly communication, credit
card acceptance for convenient on-line ordering, and more.  We have
just implemented a new feature just for our vendors that enables them
to view the 'hit' count for their items whenever they want.  Come for
a visit and see what you think.  You can request more information from
there.  Hope to hear from you soon!

Kelly Malleck

********************************************************************************
Visit Crafts An' Tiques - a Great On-Line Craft, Gift, Antique, and
Collectible Mall with a wonderful variety of vendors and quality items.
Ask us about our NO-RISK advertising. Worth the Visit!

          http://www.flash.net/~kmalleck/cat.htm



From shri@cs.umass.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shri@cs.umass.edu (H.Shrikumar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Iron support bridge, need help before I fabricate.
Date: 4 Jul 1996 07:08:53 GMT
Organization: CMPSCI Dept, UMass Amherst
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <4rfqm5$6bm@kernighan.cs.umass.edu>
References: <4r4pvd$904@kernighan.cs.umass.edu> <4r6vn1$buv@news.whidbey.com> <4rc9ir$hi6@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: eternity.cs.umass.edu

In article <4rc9ir$hi6@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>,
Peter Brooks <brooksp@corp.hp.com> wrote:
>Not terribly familiar with the strengths of material, but a conventional
>engine hoist is made of 2" x 2" steel, with (I think) 1/4" walls.  I weigh
>closer to 350 pounds than I'd like, and *I* wouldn't stand on the lifting

All you guys cautioned me about the difference between a steel supply
yard and the local hardware store. Well one thing led to another, and I
ended up looking up my friendly neighbourhood steel fabricator who is
willing to sell me good quality steel, grade 8 bolts, and drill the
holes for me as well. Not bad!

So finally this thing is going to be a steel box section beam.  The
exact section I will know on friday (depending on what cut piece is
lying around), but I will keep the above advice on wall thickness in
mind.

The cost, between $30-$45, which to say the least has one fewer digit
than the Porsche special tool :-) Cool!

Thanks again!


--//Shrikumar

'82 924 - "EA 425 Fahrvergnuegen"
shri@cs.umass.edu



From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:41:40 +0100
Organization: Home
Lines: 24
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <6kZimCAEst2xEwZk@abdab.demon.co.uk>
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Ulf Bengtsson (ulfbe@ikp.liu.se) wrote:

> Does anybody on the net have any information on mr Thomas? 
> Who was he? 
> What was his background?

George Thomas lived at New Milton in the New Forest, which covers parts
of Hampshire and Dorset, or at least he did so in his retirement - his
various series in ME were written when he was 80ish.

He ran a variety of engineering businesses in the vicinity of
Southampton.  These included SACOL (Southern Automatics Company Ltd, I
think) which made hydraulic cylinders among other things, and HCB
(Hampshire Car Bodies) which, eventually found itself quite successful
at making fire engines.  I worked there (on pump development, mostly)
during its peak in the late 70's, after George had sold up to Angus Fire
Armour (then part of Dunlop) and retired.

About his earlier life I know nothing, but I do know he was a bloody
good mechanical engineer.
      
-- 
Charles


From jreiter@ais.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:01 EDT 1996
Article: 30816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!netaxs.com!hunter.premier.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ais.net!usenet
From: jreiter@ais.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: plasma cutter advice wanted
Date: 4 Jul 1996 12:07:12 GMT
Organization: American Information Systems, Inc.
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I am looking at plasma cutters for my shop. Most of my work will be with 
16ga to 1/4" sheet steel and the like. Occasionally, I want to cut heaver
material.

I've narrowed down my selection to Thermal Dynamics, PAK Master 50
or the Esab 750i. Does anyone have experience with these machines? I'm
told the Esab is more innovative, lower power consumption, target cutting
feature for locating the torch on a previous cut, etc.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeff
jreiter@ais.net


From jmcmun@digital-cafe.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!krel.iea.com!usenet
From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SCFM, how to determine?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 06:50:50 GMT
Organization: Jamun Industries
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.227.184.34
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I am involved in a project where we supply the customer with an
air compressor/dryer system as part of the package he is buying.
Our company is selling him a HUGE compressor, in my opinion, for
the real requirements of the machine that uses compressed air.
Can someone tell me how to calculate the SCFM that the machine is
using if I run it from a known tank size and known off/on pressures, 
and using the cycle time of the compressor?

Any help appreciated,

Jay


From klaas@uniface.nl Sun Jul  7 15:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 08:16:32 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30818 sci.chem:68965 sci.engr.chem:16229

When starting up a propane forge for metal melting, 
the first few minutes a bad smell
exists in the exhaust gases. When I remove the lid (there is a hole in it,
but presumeable too small during startup) it's gone.
It's cilindrical with a tangential hole where the torch enters the combustion
room in which a crucible is in the center. On top of it there is a lid
with a hole in the center. The diameter of the room is about 5-7 cm (2-3").
The smell is somewhat NOx like, but I am not sure. 
After a few minutes it's gone (it reaches 1100 C after 10 minutes and 1350 C 
after 15 minutes *inside* the crucible).

What are these smells at startup ? Are these noxious ?

Klaas



From alanh@widomaker.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:02 EDT 1996
Article: 30819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alanh@widomaker.com (Alan Horowitz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.rural
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 11:44:48 -0400
Organization: Widomaker Public Access Internet (804)221-8070
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30819 misc.rural:30047


What size screening is required to stop "no-see-um" insects?


From redrok@pclink.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.energy
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Message-ID: <31D40C33.1626@pclink.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 09:45:39 -0700
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <31C4F0FE.4769@ix.netcom.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qm810$2na@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
Organization: Red Rock Energy
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30820 sci.energy:51856

Steve Wellcome wrote:
> 
> If you're looking for a residential diesel cogeneration system...it's
> already been done.  Drop a line to:
> 
>    Intelligen Energy Systems, Inc.
>    99 South St.
>    Hopkinton, Mass.
> 
> They manufacture a 5KW residential cogeneration heating system that
> uses a 11hp diesel engine.  It's a *nice* package.  Quality is extremely
> good.  Efficiency approaches 93%.  I went to an open  house there last
> fall.  Initial cost is high (around $8,000) but in  a "typical" house,
> at least in this part of the  country (Massachusetts) you end up getting
> your electricity basically for free and the payback  period is fairly
> reasonable, especially if you need a new heating system anyway.
> 
> (Usual disclaimers, no connection, etc.)

Can this cogeneration system run on natural gas?

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/
(612)426-4766 h  635-5065 d



From kyoung@iptcorp.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:03 EDT 1996
Article: 30821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!news4.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!iptcorp.com!kyoung
From: kyoung@iptcorp.com (Ken Young)
Subject: Re: Pewter repair
Message-ID: <DtzGDx.2ys@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <4qgdbg$8ll@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 19:49:08 GMT
Lines: 24

tarex@aol.com (TAREX) writes:
: Have a fine German pewter mug.  Bottom (pewter, not one of those glass
: ones) started to leak.  Took it to a local jeweler for repair, but they
: somewhat botched the job (may have even used lead solder...).  Worse yet,
: it still leaks.
: 
: Any suggestions regarding repair.  I am damned near dehydration, as that
: mug was coffee in the morning and ice-cold rum and Coke in the evening.
: 
One technique that you can use is to make a fiber-reinforced plaster
encasement and remelt the mug in a kiln (or a self-cleaning oven).
The (presumably) lead-free pewter will expand when it melts and you
will need more heat than the 550F most ovens will put out.  Some lead-
free pewters will melt nicely at that temperature, but dont count on it.

Another thing you can do is to try what the jeweler did only do a 
better job.  Use some lead-free solder (like 95Sn/5Sb) and a torch
to melt it into the bottom.  Then you will need to resmooth the bottom.
I suppose you could get the mug hot and the solder REALLY hot and 
flood the bottom.  Be forwarned that the solder I mentioned does not
have very good fluidity.

Ken Young



From hayesp@delphi.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Calamari
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 09:32:11 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <xhHNtNb.hayesp@delphi.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com
X-To: Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org>

Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org> writes:
 
>: 	Hello gang! I've embarked on a little manufacturing scheme to 
>: make some mini-Trebuchets. Some of the essential components include short
>: pieces of polyethylene tubing, measuring 1in. i.d., about 1in. long, with 
>: a 1/8in. wall (this is the transparent hose sold by the foot in hardware 
>: stores). It's too thick to cut with snips and too floppy to cut with a 
>: radial arm saw. I'd like to get some recommendations on how to cut it 
>: square, with a minimum of swarf. Suggestions??
 
Hi Ed.
Msc Industrial (1-800-645-7270) sells a large and small version of tubing
cutter for this purpose. Large capacity to 1 1/4" and small up to 1/2". They
work great.
 
Have Fun!
Paul


From Viking_X@msn.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Viking_X@msn.com (Bill  )
Subject: Microscopes
Date: 4 Jul 96 14:59:57 -0700
Message-ID: <00001f0c+00002cdd@msn.com>
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!scramble.lm.com!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-5.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.msn.com!msn.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 12

A home machining project I'd really like to approach is the builing 
of a microscope, but unfortunately I really don't know a damn thing 
about optics!  I look though the scientific/optic catalogs shows 
myriad and confusing choices for lenses and lens mounts.  Alos I'm 
not 100% clear on how the fine focus mechanisms work.

I've seen nothing in the Village Press mags for the last 8 years, 
nothing anywhere else either....anyone have drawings or other info on 
Micoscopes?


Thanks........Bill


From Parsek@cris.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Parsek@cris.com (PARSEK)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 16:52:38 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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Message-ID: <4rgssm$qtn@tribune.concentric.net>
References: <megavolt-3006961555050001@dialup-01-199.austin.io.com> <31D94A68.5D4D@deeside.ac.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: voyager.cris.com

robert brown  <r.brown.@deeside.ac.uk> wrote:

>You'll do well to cut straight aluminium with a saw, John, without 
>raising a burr. If your saw is a bit on the fine side the teeth may be 
>gagging on the chip, which is somewhat adhesive. Use kerosene as a 
>lubricant

Kerosene?!?  Isn't that asking for a conflaguration?  (It is July 4th and
all, but still...)  



From ron.tipton@utk.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cs.utk.edu!gaia.ns.utk.edu!utkux.utcc.utk.edu!uther
From: uther@utkux.utcc.utk.edu (Ron Tipton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
Date: 4 Jul 1996 17:35:29 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Tenn. Computing Center, Knoxville
Lines: 24
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4rgvd1$l3@gaia.ns.utk.edu>
References: <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: pendragon.ns.utk.edu

In article <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>, soltherm@cdsnet.net (solar trough guy) writes:
|> Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
|> 
|> Am I supposed to set something so that I can have articles
|> two weeks long. Like today, 7/02/93, there are only five articles
|> to read!  What ever happened to threads. Am I missing something?
|> I had CDSNET and had plenty of threads. Now I have chatlink,
|> and nada.. They wont answer this question. Any ideas?
|> 
|> Any response to this will be gone in two days - sucks..

whoever is in charge of usenet news at your isp decides how long to keep
posted articles.  here at the university of tennessee we keep articles
>from  one to twenty eight days depending on the group to which they are
posted.  we keep articles posted to the rec groups for six days.  i 
would like to keep everything for at least eight days but we have 3.2 
gb of disk space in the news spool now... and would have to increase that 
to keep things longer and (of course) we have no $$$.

ron

Ron Tipton
Newsmaster
University of Tennessee 


From nick@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nick@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu (Nick Pine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: 4 Jul 1996 14:04:56 -0400
Organization: Villanova University
Lines: 74
Message-ID: <4rh148$6fu@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu>
References: <4q18su$kgs@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <jnaylor-1706961222270001@192.0.2.1> <4qm810$2na@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <31D40C33.1626@pclink.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30826 sci.energy:51869

Duane C. Johnson <redrok@pclink.com> wrote:
>Steve Wellcome wrote:
>> 
>> If you're looking for a residential diesel cogeneration system...it's
>> already been done.  Drop a line to:
>> 
>>    Intelligen Energy Systems, Inc.
>>    99 South St.
>>    Hopkinton, Mass.
>> 
>> They manufacture a 5KW residential cogeneration heating system that
>> uses a 11hp diesel engine.  It's a *nice* package.  Quality is extremely
>> good.  Efficiency approaches 93%.  I went to an open  house there last
>> fall.  Initial cost is high (around $8,000) but in  a "typical" house,
>> at least in this part of the  country (Massachusetts) you end up getting
>> your electricity basically for free and the payback  period is fairly
>> reasonable, especially if you need a new heating system anyway.
>> 
>> (Usual disclaimers, no connection, etc.)

I have a small business interest in Intelligen... Nick

>Can this cogeneration system run on natural gas?

They are working on that. Perhaps in a year or two...

Intelligen Energy Systems       Tom Sciacca, President
58 South Street                 Neil Slavin, Exec. VP
Hopkinton, MA 01748             (508) 435-9007

This is a clever "oil burner," that costs about $10K, but it can pay for itself
in 3-5 years, vs. the infinite payback period for an ordinary oil burner, by
making 5 kW of electricity while it is heating a house. The interface is an
ordinary circuit breaker in the service panel, the kind you would use for an
electric range.

It burns home heating oil at 93% efficiency, with a 1 1/2" PVC fluepipe and
a 150F exhaust gas temperature. Inside the 800 lb box is an 11 HP diesel made
by Lister-Petter, and an induction generator. When the house thermostat calls
for heat, the induction generator acts as a motor to start the diesel from
the 220 volt line. Then it becomes a generator, making the meter run backwards,
if legally permitted. (In some states, you need two meters.) When the house is
warm enough, the diesel engine stops running.

Of course you have to put sandbags all over the kitchen floor, to keep the
dishes from rattling off the shelves... :-) No, it's actually fairly quiet,
60 dBA 2 meters away, with good shock mounts as well as acoustic skins.

The unit has a built-in circulator pump, which runs the engine block cooling
water thru baseboard radiators, a duct heat exchanger, a fan coil unit, an
indirect-fired water heater, a hot tub or swimming pool heat exchanger, etc.
55,000 Btu/hr. 85,000, max, in "turbo-mode" :-) if the microprocessor senses
more heat is needed and diverts the electrical output to turn on some heaters
in the water stream, instead of feeding it back to the electric company.

The company has about 60 systems installed in New England now, interfaced
with a dozen utilities. They are looking to expand their territory. I helped
them get the first one installed in (Doylestown) Pennsylvania.

The unit won't work in a stand-alone power mode. It won't start without grid
power, and it won't stay running on a dead line. This is a "safety feature."

Most cogen systems are at least a thousand times bigger, 5 megawatts and up.
One of the problems with these small systems is lifetime. Some standby power
systems spec oil changing every 25 hours. Others wear out in 2000 hours.
Intelligen's diesel engine is very reliable. It's also used in the M1 tank
(for auxiliary power), the DEW line, military jet engine starting systems,
commercial fishing fleets, and offshore Coast Guard installations that only
get visited once a year or so. Intelligen has a 10 year guarantee. Maintenance
consists of changing the oil once a year. And perhaps gently enquiring how
the unit has been doing over the last year, via its RS-232 interface :-)

Nick



From drewid@lanminds.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: hydroflouric acid- was "laundry suggestions"
Date: 4 Jul 1996 18:44:58 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4rh3fa$t1p@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rbi5d$9mq@fcnews. <alshinn-0207962333260001@ppp053-sf2.sirius.com> <4rdfu0$14he@serra.unipi.it> <31da6a6d.898075269@news.islandnet.com>
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini) wrote:
>
>>I tink that over extimating the danger is a true problem, a kind of safety
>>terrorism is present in several newsgroups.
>>Any comments about this?
>
>Although it is always good to err on the side of caution, I must agree
>on your observation. The oxygen thread is a good example of 'safety
>terrorism'.
>Jens

[Hydroflouric acid is definitely not something to mess with unless you 
absolutely have to- for etching glass. The people that responded to 
Paolo's idiotic suggestion (that it be used to combat rust stains in 
clothing) with warnings were trying to save him (and those foolish 
enough to listen to him) from serious or fatal damage. While perhaps 
some safety concerns are overblown, this is not one of them.  My 
favorite toxicological manual, "Artist Beware" by Dr. Michael McCann 
(Watson-Guptil NY 1979) states that it is highly corrosive to the skin, 
eyes, and lungs, also causing severe tooth and bone damage. Effects
often don't manifest themselves until several hours after exposure, and 
may include death. As for "safety terrorism"-an oxymoron if I ever heard 
one-  promoting the use of an extremely hazardous chemical as the latest 
"washday miracle" is a lot more like real terrorism in its potential 
effect. 


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From drewid@lanminds.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 19:02:59 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <4rh4h3$t1r@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl>
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C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>When starting up a propane forge for metal melting, 
>the first few minutes a bad smell
>exists in the exhaust gases. When I remove the lid (there is a hole in it,
>but presumeable too small during startup) it's gone.

[This is called "reduction", an atmospheric effect caused by lack of 
oxygen or too much fuel in the combustion reaction. Try starting with 
less gas until the airflow gets established, then you can turn it up.]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source of thin spring steel
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:05:49 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4ri7rd$dul@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Clarence Noyer (ccnoyer@whidbey.com) wrote:
: Harvey Freeman asked about spring steel rod---

: First choice--spring steel mobile antenna

Ah, yes!  Of course!  Go to an auto junkyard, and look for mid-70's
Chrysler cars, or japanese cars with roof-post antennas.  The Chryslers
had a fixed antenna of a stainless-like material that was stiff and
springy, as a defense against vandalism.  The Japanese cars with the
roof-post antennas use a somewhat more springy material as the antennas
actually need to curve when they are retracted into the body.  These ought
to be cheap - one of the few pieces that rarely gets destroyed in the
wreck!  Both of these things are about 1/8" in diameter, with a ball or
other fitting on the tip.


From morgan5@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: morgan5@ix.netcom.com(Jeff Lara)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: quick turnaround.. I got nothing to do....
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:25:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4ri903$r5g@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sjx-ca14-17.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Jul 04 10:25:23 PM PDT 1996

CMM the Silicon Valley's newest high tech sheet metal shop is waiting
for your RFQ's.. We have open capacity now, we have the equipment all
we need is YOU....Call Natalie NOW she wants to talk to you about your
sheet metal requirements call us @ 408-298-3584 Fax us your RFQ'S to
408-298-5236 were waiting we have capacity.. Were ready call now...


From sld@nikodyne.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:13:16 GMT
Organization: nikodyne technologies
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References: <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pool013.max1.atlanta.ga.dynip.alter.net

In article <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>, soltherm@cdsnet.net (solar trough guy) writes:
-> Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
-> 
-> Am I supposed to set something so that I can have articles
-> two weeks long. Like today, 7/02/93, there are only five articles
-> to read!  What ever happened to threads. Am I missing something?
-> I had CDSNET and had plenty of threads. Now I have chatlink,
-> and nada.. They wont answer this question. Any ideas?
-> 
-> Any response to this will be gone in two days - sucks..


ask cdsnet to increase the expiration higher than two days.
if they wont, try another isp.

-- 
_________________________________________________________________
Steve Davis <sld@nikodyne.com>**Nikodyne Technologies**Atlanta GA
pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
menamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenamenam


From rhager@millcomm.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:04 EDT 1996
Article: 30832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Hager <rhager@millcomm.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.rural
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 16:45:35 -0400
Organization: Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <31DC2D6F.73C2@millcomm.com>
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Alan Horowitz wrote:
> 
> What size screening is required to stop "no-see-um" insects?

-- 

Very, very, small screening !

Seriously, I think you'd want to use the plastic screen that's made for 
that purpose.  LL Bean sells something, and probably re-modeling supply 
wholesalers also (for screen porches in Florida, etc.).


        Richard Hager

+ Ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.           -
+ Precision CNC Technology, since 1991 -
+ 612-641-1797, Fax: 612-641-8681       -
+ "I just like to build stuff" So...     -
+ for CNC info, don't email me, call      -
+ or email Ah-ha! directly.  Thanks!       -
+ www.gdic.com/ahha  email: ahha@gdic.com   -


From rturner@ecg.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: rturner@ecg.com (Richard Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polishing bronze
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 22:46:43 GMT
Organization: Elaine Coyne Galleries
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <31dc4578.185295529@news.mindspring.com>
References: <01bb6954.3632f860$45ddf5ce@darwin.outland.net>
Reply-To: rturner@ecg.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: user-168-121-35-58.dialup.mindspring.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

"Greg Major" <gmajor@davlin.net> wrote:

:>Greetings all!  I've got a quick question.  How can I go about
:>polishing/buffing a bronze piece?  The item in question is a snare drum
:>shell.  It's approximately 14 inches in diameter and 6.5 inches tall with
:>a fairly consistent thickness of about a tenth of an inch or so.  There
:>are a couple of factors to keep in mind:

:>1) The piece must not be subjected to temperatures high enough to warp the
:>metal.  In other words, the thing's gotta stay nice and round.  I don't
:>know if achieving these temperatures are possible using a buffing wheel,
:>but I thought I'd mention it.

If it's actually bronze (to me, that's a big if) I don't think you
could heat it enough to damage it on a buffing wheel.   It seems to me
I would worry more about dents, dropping it, getting the right size
buffing wheel, etc.  Also, snare drums have all kinds of raised and
lowered areas, difficult to get into without a flexible shaft, which
just means it takes more time.

:>2) There is an existing laquer sprayed over the metal, however, time and
:>neglect have taken their toll and eaten through in spots.  This is the
:>whole reason I'm doing this in the first place.  What is the safest way to
:>remove the laquer without damaging the metal?

There are a lot of different industrial lacquers out there.
Sometimes, lacquer thinner takes it off, which won't hurt bronze.
Other times, I've had pieces where I couldn't figure out *how* to get
the lacquer off.  Being nonferrous, it's pretty hard to hurt bronze.
:>
:>I took the item to a local plating/polishing shop and they wanted $95 US
:>to put it through some acid bath, polish it, and laquer it.  This seemed
:>like an outrageous amount of money, but I could be wrong.  I also have 20
:>pot metal items (the drum lug casings) which are small enough to fit in
:>the palm of my hand.  They have an existing chrome which is in fair
:>condition.  The same plating shop wanted about $15 US to re-plate EACH
:>item.  This also seemed like highway robbery as I am somewhat familiar
:>with the chrome plating process and, unless the material cost is high,
:>couldn't see how they justified that much money.  Lucky me... I think I
:>can salvage the chrome with a can of wadding polish and some elbow
:>grease.

>From  your description, your job sounds like it would involve a lot of
labor, not materials.   Since it would be custom work, I would
probably charge similar prices.  But I don't do custom work.  There's
always some unknown factor that comes into play.  Replating pieces
that may be pot metal is also custom.  You don't know what you need to
strip the old stuff off, etc.  It has to be preplated with copper,
etc.  It's just labor.  My plater charges me from .50 to 3.00/pc. to
plate jewelry and larger buckle items as long as they are new pure
castings and I send up 50 or more pieces.  They have to be racked.  He
won't touch anything that was previously plated elsewhere or is
custom.  Polishing is about the same, but we do that in house.

Richard



From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: 4 Jul 1996 16:03:22 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 26
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30834 sci.chem:69008 sci.engr.chem:16242

In article <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak  <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>When starting up a propane forge for metal melting, 
>the first few minutes a bad smell
>exists in the exhaust gases. When I remove the lid (there is a hole in it,
>but presumeable too small during startup) it's gone.
>It's cilindrical with a tangential hole where the torch enters the combustion
>room in which a crucible is in the center. On top of it there is a lid
>with a hole in the center. The diameter of the room is about 5-7 cm (2-3").
>The smell is somewhat NOx like, but I am not sure. 
>After a few minutes it's gone (it reaches 1100 C after 10 minutes and 1350 C 
>after 15 minutes *inside* the crucible).
>
>What are these smells at startup ? Are these noxious ?
>
>Klaas
>


Most propane has an additive to provide an odor.  This lets you know that 
gas is present because propane itself has no odor.  The odor is usually 
methyl mercaptan and is in the propane at low concentrations.  It is not 
harmful but is certainly noxious.  It is present at startup because of 
incomplete oxidation.  When your air/propane ratio is not proper you will 
always smell the stuff.

JerryK


From jmstuart@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:05 EDT 1996
Article: 30835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmstuart@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SCFM, how to determine?
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 23:26:39 GMT
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jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn) wrote:


>Can someone tell me how to calculate the SCFM that the machine is
>using if I run it from a known tank size and known off/on pressures, 
>and using the cycle time of the compressor?

There are several ways to accomplish this task, but I will only
describe one method.  

Step 1.  Calculate the volume of the tank and piping system.  You said
that you know the volume of the tank, and the piping system may or may
not be significant.  

Step 2.  Calculate the volume of air contained in the system.  This is
easily done by converting the pressure to atmospheres of pressure
first.  An atmosphere is roughly equal to 15 psia at sea level.  The
volume of air in the system =  P(atm) * V(cuft.)

Step 3.  There are two states that are important.  The high pressure
point where the compressor is off, and the low pressure point when the
compressor comes on.  You must calculate the air contained in the
system at both points.  The difference between those two volumes is
the amount that is used by the pneumatic device.  

Step 4.  The flowrate is calculated most easily when the compressor is
off.  Allow the compressor to reach maximum cutoff pressure.  When the
compressor cuts off, start a stopwatch.  Time the interval until the
compressor restarts.  Convert the time to minutes.  

Step 5.  Calculate the flowrate by dividing the volume of air used by
the pneumatic device from step 3 by the time in minutes from step 4.
This value will be the average usage rate of the pneumatic device in
SCFM.  

There are other ways of getting more precise measurements, but this
method may be adequate for your usage.  

J. M. Stuart





From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (bikerbil)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Borax Question
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 00:13:46 GMT
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Can I use the sam Borax from the Grocery store for flux in Aluminium ?




From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 00:09:09 GMT
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In message <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> - shockey@primenet.com
(Jim Shockey)3 Jul 1996 17:05:01 -0700 writes:
:->
:->In article <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> F.Smith-IMService writes:
:->
:->>Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam? 
:->>I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
:->>Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough 
:->>interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
:->>home users.
:->
:->
:->Well, depending upon how the pricing thing goes, 
:->I may be interested in a deal like this. Please, 
:->keep us posted, Fred.
:->

I might also be interested, depending on price, and, since I'm not
familiar with BobcadCam, availability of a demo.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From n5kzw@eden.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:06 EDT 1996
Article: 30838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edwin bailen <n5kzw@eden.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 19:28:23 -0500
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On 2 Jul 1996, Roger M Weppelman wrote:

> >
> >Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
> >when and why would I use each?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >John
> >
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> It is a good question. I am no expert but here is the way I see it. Four flute mills 
> can cut faster since they bring to bear twice as many cutting surfaces per 
> revolution and this also helps with heat dissipation. On the other hand, two flute 
> mills are easier to sharpen and are quite a bit cheaper. In addition most two flute 
> mills are center cutting and can do plunge cuts while most four flute mills are not 
> center cutting (but, four flute mills which can center cut are available). So, 
> except for cost and ease of sharpening, I would normally chose a four flute over a  
> two flute. I look forward to seeing the other responses.
> 
> Roger Weppelman
> 
> 
> 
There was a posting here a few months back that pointed out that the 
two-flute design is best for slotting.  When slotting with two flutes, only 
one edge is cutting at a time and the direction of the tool can be easily 
controlled.  With four flutes, more than one edge is cutting, and the 
tool tends to walk sideways.

At least that's what I think I remember reading.

Ed Bailen


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polyethylene Calamari
Date: 4 Jul 1996 17:14:30 -0700
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	--Well, gang, here's the results of all of this thought: I went 
and got myself a "toothless" bandsaw blade. It's 5/8in. front to back, 
with a .018in. kerf and I'm running it on a little Delta 10in. 
woodworking saw. The plastic tubing is supported by holding a bit 
of 1in. dia. dowel in my left hand, then pushed a bit into the open end
of the tubing. with the right hand I support the floppy bit (about 3ft at 
a time) and then I advance the plastic tube *gently* into the blade until 
it is just through the wall. At this point I begin rolling the tubing so 
that  only one thickness (the top) is being cut at a time. Eventually a 
circle is completed and the piece is free. I found that if I just push 
the plastic tubing through the saw, for some reason I don't completely 
understand the blade wants to walk forward, i.e. towards me and comes 
free of its guide bushings (scary this is!).
	--Anyway, when all is done correctly, the piece of plastic tubing 
is parted off cleanly with no burr and with no evidence of burning of the 
cut edge. Further, the rate at which I can nip these off means that it is 
suitable for a "light manufacturing" operation, a la kitchen-table 
entrepreneurship... 
	--Thanx again for all the suggestions, gang!
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Yikes, I'm 50!!! 	
	COMING SOON		:	The second THIRD of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From jim111@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 18:34:01 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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Peter Drumm wrote:
> 
> In message <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> - shockey@primenet.com
> (Jim Shockey)3 Jul 1996 17:05:01 -0700 writes:
> :->
> :->In article <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> F.Smith-IMService writes:
> :->
> :->>Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam?
> :->>I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
> :->>Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough
> :->>interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
> :->>home users.
> :->
> :->
> :->Well, depending upon how the pricing thing goes,
> :->I may be interested in a deal like this. Please,
> :->keep us posted, Fred.
> :->
> 
> I might also be interested, depending on price, and, since I'm not
> familiar with BobcadCam, availability of a demo.
> 
> pdrumm@dwave.net
> Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
> All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
Peter 
I have about 8 copies of the bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
computer.
It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it 
will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics 
before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of 
it that way.
It is well worth the $15. demo price just for the time saved to figure
the math for bolt circles, angles, radius, and it will do the g-codes
for you.
you can draw a part ,then check any ang.,rad, or dim. with the program.
                                     jim111@ix.netcom.com
                                      
                                     Broken Tap Extraction
                                     Orange eng. 
                                     9822 Everest
                                     Downey Calif.
                                     310 803-1106


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:07 EDT 1996
Article: 30841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Borax Question
Date: 4 Jul 1996 22:16:58 -0400
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In article <31dc5d9d.120120@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(bikerbil) writes:

>Can I use the sam Borax from the Grocery store for flux in Aluminium ?

The "20 Mule Team Borax" is what I use to flux my silicon bronze melts
(together with ground glass at a 50:50 ratio).
Borax is not an effective flux for aluminum melts. When I do flux
aluminum, I use a commercial flux of various fluorides/chlorides. I only
flux when melting "very dirty/mixed" scrap, otherwise, nothing is used.
I never flux brass melts, letting the zinc flare do all the work of
bringing the impurities to the top and degassing.
You can pour clean aluminum if you do a thorough skim and use a choked
sprue/gate, even when working with dirty, recycled feed.
Fluxes are not a cure-all for poor melting and molding practices and I
avoid their use where possible.

Winston
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: 5 Jul 1996 04:35:23 GMT
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4-fluters have a flute at 90 degrees to the flute currently at the deepest 
point of cut [sideways] - it helps to push the cutting flute into the
workpiece, making for grabbing in softer metals....  pretty much as the
other responders have said.  I experienced this first hand trying to make
some cuts for a spline.....  won't try the 4-fluter again.... at least not
without extra rigid everything....
/mark

edwin bailen (n5kzw@eden.com) wrote:


: On 2 Jul 1996, Roger M Weppelman wrote:

: > >
: > >Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
: > >when and why would I use each?
: > >
: > >Thanks,
: > >John
: > >
: > 
: > 
: > John,
: > 
: > It is a good question. I am no expert but here is the way I see it. Four flute mills 
: > can cut faster since they bring to bear twice as many cutting surfaces per 
: > revolution and this also helps with heat dissipation. On the other hand, two flute 
: > mills are easier to sharpen and are quite a bit cheaper. In addition most two flute 
: > mills are center cutting and can do plunge cuts while most four flute mills are not 
: > center cutting (but, four flute mills which can center cut are available). So, 
: > except for cost and ease of sharpening, I would normally chose a four flute over a  
: > two flute. I look forward to seeing the other responses.
: > 
: > Roger Weppelman
: > 
: > 
: > 
: There was a posting here a few months back that pointed out that the 
: two-flute design is best for slotting.  When slotting with two flutes, only 
: one edge is cutting at a time and the direction of the tool can be easily 
: controlled.  With four flutes, more than one edge is cutting, and the 
: tool tends to walk sideways.

: At least that's what I think I remember reading.

: Ed Bailen


From petev@superlink.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pete_v <petev@superlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Software
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 00:48:40 -0400
Organization: SuperNet Inc. (908) 828-8988
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Mike Rehmus wrote:
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> http://ingress.com/~manderso/fbreath/mrm001.htm
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Mike RehmusHi Mike:

I couldn't find the site you mentioned for the CAD/CAM software. Was it 
spelled correctly? New site? 

Thanks,    Pete Vranesich.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:08 EDT 1996
Article: 30844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on welding with power supplies
Date: 5 Jul 1996 04:46:55 GMT
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Frank Evan Perdicaro (frank@newshost.dsea.com) wrote:

: But, in addition to these power supplies, I do have about 1 ton of
: isolation transformers.  These are very nice ones, with about 12 tap
: points, and can do a 4:1 voltage reduction.  They weigh about 150 lbs
: each.  And they are free.

: Say I feed 220 into the autotrans, then step down 4:1.  Do I have an
: adjustable-power AC arc welder?

Not quite there yet!  If you built this, the first time you touched the
stick to the work, it would spot weld, and the circuit breaker in your
fuse panel would trip.  You need a way to limit the current, and a way to
stabilize the arc.  Most 'buzz-box' welders do both with the same
mechanism, adjustable poor coupling between the primary and secondary.
They accomplish this with a movable piece of iron core material in the
transformer.  You don't have an easy way to do this, all your transformers
have good coupling between the primary and secondary.  You need to insert
an inductance (modest in Henries, but LOTS of Amps) in series with either
the primary or secondary.  You could use just a couple of turns through
one of those cores with welding cable, or put the tapped autotransformer
in series with the primary - but NOT using it as an autotransformer.
it will take a bit of tinkering to find the right settings for all this.
You want to have a good open circuit voltage (55 Volts is just about
right).  But you also need good current regulation, and a simple series
inductor won't quite do that.  The magnetic saturation of the buzz-box
core sections are tuned by design to have a linearizing effect on current,
always adapting closed-circuit voltage to keep arc current close to the
setting on the box.  Still, what you want to do may work fine.  You won't
know without trying it.

But DEFINITELY DON'T try to build it the way you suggested.  Without
current limiting, you are likely to demonstrate exploding wire technology!
if the current rises without limit (except leakage inductance in your
transformers and wiring resistance) then the highest resistance in the
system may be the welding rod, and it may literally explode when you try
your first arc.  That could be a hazardous experience.

					jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Putting a Thread on Sterling Silver Road
Date: 5 Jul 1996 04:55:59 GMT
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Lionel Titchener (tcgb@tattoo.co.uk) wrote:
: Out of curiosity, shortly having to put a thread about 30mm long on some 
: 3mm & 4mm dia sterling silver, which would be best, to a cut thread or to 
: roll the thread?

: I am considering using a capstan lathe with a self releasing diehead.

Having done a bit of threading in soft copper, I would try rolling, but
not with a standard thread-forming die.  I think that will exert enough
force to twist the rod.  Really rolling with specially made rolling dies
has about a 95% or better probability of working well.

Making a set of rolling dies for such a soft workpiece should be a simple
job, and not take more than a few hours.  Figuring out how to hold the
dies as they are being used is a little trickier, but given the softness
of the work again, you might be able to simply place the two dies in a
milling vise and push one down against the other, one die sliding on the
vise jaw.

You can try cutting the threads with a super-sharp carbide insert, taking
very light cuts.  The length of the threaded area sounds like real
trouble, however.  This is why rolling starts to look like the best
option.




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:09 EDT 1996
Article: 30846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] nickel precipitate-hardening steels
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:00:26 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 18
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Stan Malyshev (stas@best.com) wrote:

: Hi folks,

: I've recently read in a book (published in 1984) that maraging steels, while
: exhibiting excellent strength and ductility (given the strength), performed
: poorly when subjected to revesing load directions.

: Has this problem been solved?  What's the current state of the art?

The current state of the art is that the NRC (US Nuclear Regulatory
Agency) will get real interested if you try to get this grade of steel.
Apparently it is almost exclusively used in centrifuges for the separation
of Uranium isotopes, and thereby becomes a strategic material, and is
controlled under the nuclear non-proliferation accord.  I guess that the
use in centrifuges keeps the metal going between tension and relaxation,
but doesn't cause compression.  Perhaps even so, they have to severely
limit start-stop cycles, or anneal every so many cycles.


From pereirad@ucsu.Colorado.EDU Sun Jul  7 15:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Pereira <pereirad@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plastic gear grease ? on HF lathe
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 23:47:55 -0600
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
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Hello, I've been trying to "rebuild" one of those 7 x 10 mini lathe from
Harbor Freight. It has all plastic gears in the headstock driving the
chuck and the feed screw. There isn't any lube on these gears, and I was
wondering if I should put something on them before putting it all back
together. I have read the faq with regard to lubes/oil, but nothing is
mentioned about plastic parts.

I'm also looking for a chuck holder that will fit into the tailstock of
this lathe. I have a 1/2 in. chuck with a JT33 taper, and the tailstock
accepts Morse #2. Any suggestions?

thanks
David
pereirad@ucsu.colorado.edu



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:52:43 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4riajb$dul@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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John Anderson (megavolt@io.com) wrote:
: I use lots of .040 pre-finished aluminum.  It comes in 4x10' sheets, and
: I've been trying to reduce my reliance on outside metal shops simply to
: cut pieces to size.

: I've got a panel saw in which I've put a rather fine-tooted circular saw
: blade (7 1/4").  It makes an acceptable cut on one side, but a horrible on
: on the other side (a continuous, ugly "burr").

Well, maybe you need to get a de-burring tool.  I don't know how severe
the burr is.  There are tools sold by machine shop suppliers (Enco, MSC,
KBC, Grand Tool, etc.) that you run down the edge of the cut to slice off
the burr.  This is actually necessary in nearly ALL cutting operations on
aluminum, due to the plastic flow of that metal.  These tools are
disposable, as they only cost about $4.00.

: My question is if there is a way to get a good cut with a circular saw
: blade on sheet aluminum.  The blade I'm using is an inexpensive one -
: carbon steel with probably 10-11 tpi.  It's the only thing I've seen sold
: for aluminum cutting.  I have the blad set to penetrate the material about
: 1/4 inch.  If there's something better for this application I'd love to
: know about it.

The problem is that the surface speed is WAY too high for metal cutting!
You want about 100 - 150 SFPM for HSS on Aluminum, you are probably
running 1500 - 2000 SFPM, good for sawing wood.  Look for a worm-drive
saw with the slowest blade RPM you can find.  Otherwise, there are
hand-held bandsaws for this purpose, but the throat is really limited on
those.  If the work allows, a band saw would work better, if it has slow
speeds for metal.

You could try supporting the metal on a surface, attaching a guide to it,
and scoring the metal with a sharp knife, like the carpet installers use.
Those knives with the extendable blades, for cutting open boxes are what
I have in mind.  .040" aluminum is quite thin, and should cut through in
a few passes.  You will still get a burr, but it will be quite small, and
easily removed.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:10 EDT 1996
Article: 30849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rotary Table Question
Date: 5 Jul 1996 06:03:01 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4rib6l$dul@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Roger M Weppelman (RMWEPP@ccmail.exe) wrote:
: When using a rotary table on a milling machine, the first step is mounting the 
: workpiece so that the center of the arc to be cut or the circle to be inletted is 
: located at the table's axis of rotation. What's the easiest way of doing this?

: Up to this point, I have been centering the rotary table to the milling machine 
: spindle with an indicator, locking the table, and then placing the work piece on the 
: table and centering it to the spindle with a wiggler. But there has be be a better 
: way. In particular, is there any way of directly centering the work piece to the 
: table's axis of rotation without centering both to the spindle?  All suggestions 
: appreciated.

I could think of some sort of fixture to do this, but no procedure, unless
you do some modifications to the table.  One possibility is to cut the OD
of the table down a few thousandths until it is absolutely concentric to
the center of rotation.  Then, you could move a workpiece around until a
caliper reads the same from the edge of the piece to the edge of the table
at three or four points around the table.  Then clamp the workpiece.

You could build a fixture that clamps over the table, and has a centering
hole at the exact center.  Place work (perhaps with a punch mark at the
point to be centered) on the table, then lower the fixture onto the table,
over the work.  Pass a transfer punch through the hole in fixture, and
move work until point on punch enters punch mark on work.  Clamp work,
remove fixture, voila!

If you plan to do a lot of this work, then this may make sense.  I don't
use the rotary table much, but it is very useful when needed.  The
multiple alignment process is cumbersome, but a few times a year, I don't
worry about it.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting stock
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:40:14 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <4ri9ru$dul@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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zeke@connectnet.com wrote:
: I';ve been reading the Home Shop Machinists Handbook and thinking
: about buying a Sherline lathe.  There are a series of projects at the
: back of the book that go from basic to more difficult.  The fist
: project is a pair of punches made out of 1/4" high-carbon hex stock.

: 1. Where do I find this material?

You need to find a metal supplier.  We have some good ones in St. Louis,
but I'm sure there is one near you, too.  This is the sales end of the
metals scrap yard, which buys up odds and ends from large machine shops.
The junk pieces that they cut off the end of a long piece of stock is
a great piece for our stock shelf.

: 2. How do I cut it to 4.06 inches as they recommend?  Is a hacksaw good
:      enough?

Don't try to go for a dimension like this with a hack saw (or even a
band-saw).  Leave 1/4" or so excess, and face it down with the lathe on
both ends.  When both ends are faced clean, with no saw marks left
visible, then remove the workpiece and measure.  Now you know how much
you need to remove.  Chuck back into the lathe, and advance the tool
toward the end of the work until it just begins to cut a hair-thin chip.
Call that 'zero', and now advance the tool in stages and face off more
material until you have advanced the compound an amount equal to the
excess measured above.  You can routinely do this exercise to about
+/- .002".
(To put actual measurements on it, suppose final dimension is to be 4.000".
You measure after facing both ends and get 4.156".
You need to remove 0.156" from either end.
Rechuck and advance until a threadlike chip appears, and you observe
  the compound dial reads 33, and on your machine a full turn on the
  compound moves the slide .100".
Make several facing cuts, advancing the compound each time by an amount
  that gives good cutting, and come back around to 33 again - you've now
  removed .100".  Now, you have .056" left to go.  33 plus 56 = 89, and
  this won't pass zero, so continue cutting until you get close to 89, say
  make 79 your last roughing pass.  Then advance to dial reading 89, and
  make a last pass.
Your rod should now measure 4.000" plus or minus a thousandth of an inch
  or so.

I do this sort of thing all the time.  Don't try to save a few thousandths
of stock.  It is not worth wasting the whole piece!  And you can't keep a
hand held hacksaw cut straight within an eighth of an inch most of the
time.  Leave a good allowance for wander when you cut off a piece of
stock.

Of course, if this is Iridium bar stock, then you wouldn't want to waste
any, but you wouldn't be cutting it with a hack saw, either.  I'd like to
know what the writer of the Sherline manual had in mind when he
recommended rough-cutting stock to .060" precision.  Maybe he meant to
cut the stock off ON THE LATHE!  You can do this with a parting-off tool.
Long pieces of stock hanging out through the headstock can be a hazard,
however.  Thin rods can flail around suddenly and be a real danger.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: source for polishing compound needed
Date: 5 Jul 1996 05:54:26 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4riami$dul@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bill Cottrell ("wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net) wrote:
: I am polishing carbon steel and need a source for an aggresive compound 
: and a buffing wheel, preferably in Seattle. E-mail response's please. 

MSC has a wide line of polishing abrasives, from lapping compounds, trade
named 'Clover', to diamond dust in oil.  MSC is at 800-645-7270.



From felice@pioneer.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:11 EDT 1996
Article: 30852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Is David M. Macmillan here?
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 05:49:33 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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Frivolous and not technical:
Is David M. Macmillan here? I read his letter in this month's
Home Shop Machinist, and would like to correspond about
it via e-mail.   Is metalworking a dying art? Is it percieved as wierd,
or respected ?and how old are most users of rec. crafts . metalworking, and
more importantly, does it matter?


From IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET Sun Jul  7 15:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 09:54:12 +02
From: Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Message-ID: <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Trumpets and the like
Lines: 8

The brass musical instruments are impressive pieces of workmanship.  How are
these long, conical pieces fabricated?   They look seamless when finished.
     I have a job in which this sort of technology would be handy and I
suspect I am not alone!



                        Bob


From shockey@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 08:11:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <shockey.567.003C85FF@primenet.com>
References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> <4rhmf5$38j@blackice.winternet.com> <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com>
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In article <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com> writes:

[delete]

>I have about 8 copies of the bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
>computer.
>It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it 
>will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics 
>before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of 
>it that way.
>It is well worth the $15. demo price just for the time saved to figure
>the math for bolt circles, angles, radius, and it will do the g-codes
>for you.
>you can draw a part ,then check any ang.,rad, or dim. with the program.


Hi, Jim. I've gotta push you a little on something.  :-) 
One of the features that BobCAD/CAM has stressed 
is its ability to accept input in the form of .DXF files. 
If this is fully functional except in the area of saving 
the CAD work, then does it still allow this input of 
externally generated .DXF files? If so, then one could 
do the entire job, albeit the hard way. Assuming that 
one has a CAD package that will generate .DXFs. 

True or False? 


Thanks, 


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:12 EDT 1996
Article: 30855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plastic gear grease ? on HF lathe
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 06:31:27 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 67
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References: <Pine.GSO.3.94.960704233150.6122A-100000@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jul 05  8:30:15 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: David Pereira <pereirad@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------3347115B6ABC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David Pereira wrote:
> 
> Hello, I've been trying to "rebuild" one of those 7 x 10 mini lathe.......
>.... There isn't any lube on these gears, and I was
> wondering if I should put something......

Don't know about this.  Write HF...

> 
> I'm also looking for a chuck holder that will fit into the tailstock of
> this lathe. I have a 1/2 in. chuck with a JT33 taper, and the tailstock
> accepts Morse #2. Any suggestions?

Get a #2MT-JT33 drill chuck arbor.  Any of the suppliers has them.  
About $5 - $15.

> 
> thanks
> David
> pereirad@ucsu.colorado.edu

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------3347115B6ABC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="WHLSLTOOL.txt"


Wholesale Tool

Industrial supplies


Wholesale Tool
P.O. Box 68
Warren MI  48089-0068

Phone: 1-800-521-3420
       1-810-754-9270

FAX:   1-800-521-3661
       1-810-754-8652  
--------------3347115B6ABC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="MSC.txt"


Supplies, tools, etc.

MSC Industrial Supply Co.
Phone: 1-800-645-7270
FAX:   1-800-255-5067

Fantastic Service and Delivery

I ordered on Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!
--------------3347115B6ABC--



From sjnoll@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: sjnoll@ix.netcom.com (Steve J. Noll)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 14:25:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4rj8mc$r80@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ven-ca1-19.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jul 05  9:26:20 AM CDT 1996
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I'm using the popular Free Agent news reader.  It has a "Keep Article"
button that lets me "lock-in" any article(s), even after they are no
longer available from the ISP.  If your news reader has that feature,
that may be an answer, at least for now.

Steve J. Noll | Ventura CA | WA6EJO | sjnoll@ix.netcom.com  



From shockey@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 07:45:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <shockey.566.002439F5@primenet.com>
References: <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl> <4rhijq$aqo@crl12.crl.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30857 sci.chem:69036 sci.engr.chem:16254

In article <4rhijq$aqo@crl12.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:

[delete]

>Most propane has an additive to provide an odor.  This lets you know that 
>gas is present because propane itself has no odor.  The odor is usually 
>methyl mercaptan and is in the propane at low concentrations.  It is not 
>harmful but is certainly noxious.  It is present at startup because of 
>incomplete oxidation.  When your air/propane ratio is not proper you will 
>always smell the stuff.


It's no big deal, Jerry; but, I think you meant to 
use the term "obnoxious" which means "very 
offensive; unpleasant." The common definition 
of  "noxious" is "harmful to health or morals; 
injurious or unwholesome." Your sentence didn't 
quite make sense or convey what you intended. 

And, thanks for the info. I never knew what the 
name of that additive was. 


Not trying to be picky, just more precise,  8-)


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:13 EDT 1996
Article: 30858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hydroflouric acid- was "laundry suggestions"
Date: 5 Jul 1996 14:39:02 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 30
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Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <4rh3fa$t1p@lanshark.lanminds.com> Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com> writes:

>Hydroflouric acid is definitely not something to mess with unless you 
>absolutely have to- for etching glass. The people that responded to 
>Paolo's idiotic suggestion (that it be used to combat rust stains in 
>clothing) with warnings were trying to save him (and those foolish 
>enough to listen to him) from serious or fatal damage. 

If the threat is really so serious, perhaps someone should ask
the CPSC why hydrofluoric acid has been freely sold as a laundry
and bathroom rust remover for decades, without any apparent need
for a recall.  I wonder if they even keep injury records by type
of cleaner?

Locally the most common brand of hydrofluoric acid rust remover
is "Whink," which is available in a squeeze bottle in most good
hardware stores and supermarkets.  I'm not sure what strength it
is, but it dissolves rust and hard water stains in toilet bowls
in less than a minute, and etches porcelain fairly quickly.

As for safety terrorism, I think the most unfortunate aspect of
the excessive warnings is that truly dangerous chemicals carry
no more warnings than only mildly dangerous ones.  I think my
last jug of muriatic acid had more warnings than a bottle of
Whink.

--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From shockey@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is David M. Macmillan here?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 08:25:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
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References: <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net>
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In article <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net> felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) writes:

>Frivolous and not technical:
>Is David M. Macmillan here? I read his letter in this month's
>Home Shop Machinist, and would like to correspond about
>it via e-mail.   Is metalworking a dying art? Is it percieved as wierd,
>or respected ?and how old are most users of rec. crafts . metalworking, and
>more importantly, does it matter?


I'm not sure.
I don't think so. (One blacksmith is worth more than 
  all the lawyers you can line up. And, they should be 
  lined up. And, once they're lined up . . . ) 
Yes. Both. 
It is not likely that many metalworkers will ever live 
  to be as old as they look/feel. 
It does not. Maybe. 


I can only hope that my answers are half as useless 
as your questions.  8-) 



--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From ayen@access5.digex.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:14 EDT 1996
Article: 30860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ayen@access5.digex.net (Doug Ayen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Relative temperatures of gasses]
Date: 5 Jul 1996 11:26:40 -0400
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <ayen.836580188@access5>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access5.digex.net


I have a friend who sants to know (for some unspeakable purpose, no doubt)
what the relative temperatures of oxy-propane, oxy-acetylne, and the like
are. That is, he wants to know what temperature they burn at for your
standard fittings, working pressures, and that sort of thing. If someone
could either point me at the information (didn't see it in a quick peruse
of the FAQ, but grep isn't always reliable) or just post it to this group,
I would appreciate it.

AtDhVaAnNkCsED

--doug
ayen@digex.net
-- 
Writing is easy: all you have to do is stare at a blank CRT until drops 
of blood form on your forehead.



From shockey@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trumpets and the like
Date: 5 Jul 1996 08:38:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet
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References: <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
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In article <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> writes:

>The brass musical instruments are impressive pieces of workmanship.  How are
>these long, conical pieces fabricated?   They look seamless when finished.
>     I have a job in which this sort of technology would be handy and I
>suspect I am not alone!

Hi, Bob. I recall seeing a television program on 
this subject. It was quite some time ago and I 
don't recall if it was on the Discovery or the PBS. 
I don't remember much of the detail, but the 
process was quite interesting to watch. I'd try 
some search engines. 

For the most part they are cylindrical and only 
become conical toward the business end. I don't 
remember how the tubes were made (seamless?) 
to start with; but, they filled them with something 
like beeswax when they started putting the curves 
into them. 

Will you give us a report on what you find? 

Good luck, 


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,misc.rural
Subject: Re: Wire mesh gauges?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 15:51:21 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
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A box of 16 gauge steel sheet with the protected one inside might be good 
enought to stop no-see-ums but there are probably deliterious side 
effects from employing such a solution.   khuk-khuk-khuk  "CC"



From dsmith@mail.cdsnet.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:15 EDT 1996
Article: 30863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Don Smith <dsmith@mail.cdsnet.net>
Newsgroups: alt.rec.camping,misc.forsale.non-computer,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.outdoors.rv-travel,sci.energy
Subject: Re: WTD: low power, diesel generator
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 10:48:22 -0700
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Philippe Habib wrote:
> 
> samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) writes:
> >: convert a small gasoline engine to propane? Who would I contact about that? The
> 
> Call Garretson (817)924-1698.  They make kits to convert engines from
> gasoline to either propane or natural gas.  They also make a version that
> still lets you run from gasoline if you want.  Cost is about $200.

There's alot of companies that manufacture kits to convert gas engines to propane.  Most of them 
involve attaching a vapor carburator on top of the gasoline one. If you contact some of your local 
bulk propane dealers they will be able to get you the costs.  
These kits most often provide for 'dual fuel' operation.  I had a Camaro several years ago that ran 
on either propane or gas at the flick of a switch.  One thing you have to remember is that propane 
has a lower BTU content than gas, i.e. 1 gal of propane < 1 gal of gas. However, propane powered 
engines have several advantages, smooth accelleration/decelleration (maybe not an issue in your 
application), and extended engine life (propane enters the cylinder as a vapor and thus doesn't 
'wash' oil off the cylinder walls the way gas does, or so I've been told).  I do know that gas 
engines, for whatever reason, go alot longer between major repairs when they're running propane. 

Don Smith  dsmith@cdsnet.net


From jasclb@tdl.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.tdl.com!laminar.tdl.com!swensen
From: jasclb@tdl.com (John Swensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trumpets and the like
Date: 5 Jul 1996 17:00:54 GMT
Organization: The Diamond Lane
Lines: 33
Sender: swensen@laminar.tdl.com (John Swensen)
Message-ID: <4rjho6$373@news.tdl.com>
References: <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tdl-st165.tdl.com


Every brass instrument I have examined is constructed of seamed, brass sheet
stock. If you look very closely at a the bell, you should be able to detect a
reddish line where the brass was brazed or hard soldered with a different metal.
(There is at least one instance of a pure silver trumpet from the Baroque period
in a museum somewhere in Germany, I believe).

The roughly cylindrical sections are made by cutting some sheet stock, forming
a rough cylinder, soldering, then placing it over a slightly tapered mandrel
and drawing though one or more holes in lead plate. Very subtle differences
in the taper can have dramatic influences on the tone and intonation of the
instrument.

For the more conical bell sections, a piece of flat sheet is, again, bent around
to meet itself and soldered, but then the piece is slipped over a mandrel and
either hammered or spun (or both) to shape. The best trumpets have one-piece
bells, but cheaper trumpets (and, perhaps, instruments with extreme flares like
French horns) have the flare section soldered to the more conical section upwind
of it.

Gentle bends are formed by filling the tube with pitch or lead and bending
over a form, although severe bends (like around the valves) may be made by
soldering stamped halves of the bend together.

After all the pieces are formed, they are soft-soldered together.
-- 

John Swensen, who once played baroque and modern trumpets
email to: jasclb@tdl.com

In article <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>, Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> writes:
|> The brass musical instruments are impressive pieces of workmanship.  How are
|> these long, conical pieces fabricated?   They look seamless when finished.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 5 Jul 1996 19:28:07 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4rjqc7$8uq@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net> <pevans.331.31D8006A@mindlink.bc.ca>
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philip evans (pevans@mindlink.bc.ca) wrote:
: In article <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net> Parsek@cris.com (PARSEK) writes:


: >In article <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu>, Craig Wall <cwall@swri.edu> wrote:

: >>     See the above- this is NOT on a model scale.  I would expect the all-up
: >>     weight with a suitable duct/nacelle combination to go about 60 lbs or
: >>     so, and produce on the order of 100-200 lbs of thrust. Two should power
: >>     a single seat airplane adequately, if not spectacularly.

: >At least some cruise missiles use small turbojets engineered from truck
: >engine superchargers.  Check rec.aviation.military & rec.flying.homebuilt.
: >Even if you managed to acquire such an engine, the FAA probably wouldn't
: >let you fly it.  

I've seen these engines.  They look in NO WAY like they have anything in
common with a turbocharger.  They are multistage axial-flow compressors,
combustion chambers and a turbine, which drives a fan out in front.
VERY similar to a high-bypass commercial jet engine in miniature.  The
damn things even have hydraulic constant-speed-drives for the 400 Hz
alternator that powers the electronics!  Since civilians are flying
jet-powered aircraft (some home-built) they CAN'T keep you from flying it
if it meets airworthiness rules and if you get the needed certification
and insurance.

: What if you got a cruise missle that presumably already has FAA cert, strap on 
: a saddle and your goggles, and stow a twofour where the nuke is supposed to go?

Cruise missles DON'T carry an FAA certification, since they are military
aircraft.  I wouldn't want to fly with goggles on anything that goes
250 MPH!



From jjcrom@csn.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:16 EDT 1996
Article: 30866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jjcrom@csn.net (Justin Crom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: 5 Jul 1996 20:01:00 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4rjs9s$bq9@news-2.csn.net>
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In article <4ri62b$evj@wolfe.wimsey.com>, mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com says...
>
>4-fluters have a flute at 90 degrees to the flute currently at the deepest 
>point of cut [sideways] - it helps to push the cutting flute into the
>workpiece, making for grabbing in softer metals....  pretty much as the
>other responders have said.  I experienced this first hand trying to make
>some cuts for a spline.....  won't try the 4-fluter again.... at least not
>without extra rigid everything....
>/mark
>
In his workshop book, the late G. H. Thomas provides an interesting analysis of 
2 lipped vs. 4 lipped cutters.  As several have mentioned here, the 2 flute 
variety is recommended for slotting. 



From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Vapourizing Burners, anyone???
Date: 5 Jul 1996 14:34:34 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	Hello, all. A few years back I did some research on vapourizing 
burners to determine failure modes, etc. I started with the Blackstaffe 
burner as a baseline and made a few improvements. Along the way I 
generated some pretty wierd designs as well as some useful ones. They're 
all now dumped into the same BIG box in the shop (spring cleaning came 
late this year...) and I would be pleased to foist... er, uh, donate them 
to anyone who would like to carry on the research or who would like to 
have a burner or two for whatever. 
	If you might be interested in these burners, please contact me 
and maybe we can figure out how to send them your way. A few bucks to 
cover postage would probably be all I'd need to be happy...
	
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Yikes, I'm 50!!! 	
	COMING SOON		:	The second THIRD of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From fabian@li.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!li.net!usenet
From: Fabo <fabian@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trumpets and the like
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 00:22:19 -0700
Organization: Islandia Consulting
Lines: 13
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References: <96187.095412IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
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Bob Mueller wrote:
> 
> The brass musical instruments are impressive pieces of workmanship.  How are
> these long, conical pieces fabricated?   They look seamless when finished.
>      I have a job in which this sort of technology would be handy and I
> suspect I am not alone!
> 
>                         BobThe actual process of bending is done by first filling the instrument 
with water , then freezing it.

Thats all I have to say about that !
Fabo
fabian@li.net


From mascher@u.washington.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mascher@u.washington.edu (Kelley Mascher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hydroflouric acid- was "laundry suggestions"
Date: 5 Jul 1996 22:07:08 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 55
Message-ID: <4rk3mc$jso@nntp4.u.washington.edu>
References: <4r8pen$i12@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <DtvuJq.BIx@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rasur$sv2@serra.unipi.it> <Dtx78J.FMC@bbxrbk.basis.com> <4rbi5d$9mq@fcnews. <alshinn-0207962333260001@ppp053-sf2.sirius.com> <4rdfu0$14he@serra.unipi.it> <31da6a6d.898075269@ne
NNTP-Posting-Host: saul2.u.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-User: mascher

So, the little bottle of dilute Hydroflouric acid I bought at the grocery
store to clean the rust stains from my sink is going to kill me. Do you
really think that someone is going to go out, violating several state
and federal laws, and buy concentrated hydroflouric acid and try to
launder their shirt in it? Not likely.

Safety terrorism is probably too strong a term, safety hysteria is 
probably more accurate. I don't usually respond to these kinds of threads
but there is nothing idiotic about Paolo's suggestion. Insults will get
you nowhere.


Kelley

"Save me from the people who would save me from myself" Gang of Four

Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com> writes:

>psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>>P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it (Paolo Zini) wrote:
>>
>>>I tink that over extimating the danger is a true problem, a kind of safety
>>>terrorism is present in several newsgroups.
>>>Any comments about this?
>>
>>Although it is always good to err on the side of caution, I must agree
>>on your observation. The oxygen thread is a good example of 'safety
>>terrorism'.
>>Jens

>[Hydroflouric acid is definitely not something to mess with unless you 
>absolutely have to- for etching glass. The people that responded to 
>Paolo's idiotic suggestion (that it be used to combat rust stains in 
>clothing) with warnings were trying to save him (and those foolish 
>enough to listen to him) from serious or fatal damage. While perhaps 
>some safety concerns are overblown, this is not one of them.  My 
>favorite toxicological manual, "Artist Beware" by Dr. Michael McCann 
>(Watson-Guptil NY 1979) states that it is highly corrosive to the skin, 
>eyes, and lungs, also causing severe tooth and bone damage. Effects
>often don't manifest themselves until several hours after exposure, and 
>may include death. As for "safety terrorism"-an oxymoron if I ever heard 
>one-  promoting the use of an extremely hazardous chemical as the latest 
>"washday miracle" is a lot more like real terrorism in its potential 
>effect. 


>Andrew Werby - United Artworks

>http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid


-- 
Kelley Mascher                                            (206) 528-2713
Children's Hospital & Med. Center               mascher@u.washington.edu
Audiology Research


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is David M. Macmillan here?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 21:17:27 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <darylb-0507961721230001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

I don't know how many David M. Macmillan's  there are in this world but I
know one who might have asked those questions and I forwarded your post on
to him. As for my responses;

Is metalworking a dying art? No
Is it percieved as wierd? Depends what you do with the metal 8^)
Is it respected? See above.
How old are most users of rec.crafts.metalworking? ?
Does it matter? Does what matter?

Cheers
Daryl


In article <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein) wrote:

> Frivolous and not technical:
> Is David M. Macmillan here? I read his letter in this month's
> Home Shop Machinist, and would like to correspond about
> it via e-mail.   Is metalworking a dying art? Is it percieved as wierd,
> or respected ?and how old are most users of rec. crafts . metalworking, and
> more importantly, does it matter?

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From F.Smith-Imservice Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!zdc!zippo!drn
From: F.Smith-Imservice
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 11:01:18 -0700
Organization: Zippo
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <4rjl9e$d4b@doc.zippo.com>
References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> <4rhmf5$38j@blackice.winternet.com> <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> <shockey.567.003C85FF@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: aa1-121.bizserve.com

>In article <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>
>>I have bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
>>computer.
>>It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it 
>>will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics 
>>before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of 
>>it that way.

>Hi, Jim. I've gotta push you a little on something.  :-) 
>One of the features that BobCAD/CAM has stressed 
>is its ability to accept input in the form of .DXF files. 
>If this is fully functional except in the area of saving 
>the CAD work, then does it still allow this input of 
>externally generated .DXF files? If so, then one could 
>do the entire job, albeit the hard way. Assuming that 
>one has a CAD package that will generate .DXFs. 
>
>True or False? 
>
>
>Thanks, 
>
>
>--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>

Jim,

	The demo doesn't allow saving of CAD or CAM files.  It also doesn't
allow printing or communications.  It will allow you to do drawing, and posting
and verification of drawing data, such as tangency intersection points, also 
DXF import.  My original posting was not for demo software, but full working
copies, specially liscensed to home users for non commercial use.


          Best Regards,

          Fred Smith
          IMService

E-Mail:   imserv@BizServe.com
Phone:    810/486-3600
Fax:      810/486-3698

Snail:    IMService
          P.O. Box 142
          New Hudson, MI 48165 USA


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Why do these articles dissapear every two days???
Message-ID: <1996Jul5.155015.23974@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 5 Jul 96 15:50:15 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>
Distribution: world
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X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
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In article <4rf1rt$16r@news.chatlink.com>, soltherm@cdsnet.net (solar trough guy) writes:
|>Why do these articles dissapear every two days?????????????????
|>
|>Am I supposed to set something so that I can have articles
|>two weeks long. Like today, 7/02/93, there are only five articles
|>to read!  What ever happened to threads. Am I missing something?
|>I had CDSNET and had plenty of threads. Now I have chatlink,
|>and nada.. They wont answer this question. Any ideas?
|>
|>Any response to this will be gone in two days - sucks..


This is entirely an issue between you and your service provider.
UseNet only provides for the distribution of news; how long each
article is kept by a site is up to the manager of that site.  Note
that here at UW, we have pretty much a "full" feed of about 18,000
newsgroups.  Keeping articles for 3-4 days (except alt.binaries.*
which we keep 1-2 days) we fill three 4-gigabyte disk drives.

My suggestion would be to find a better service provider.  If they
have not responded to your query, they don't deserve your business.

Jim


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink 
Message-ID: <1996Jul5.155955.23975@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 5 Jul 96 15:59:55 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl>
Distribution: world
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30873 sci.chem:69051 sci.engr.chem:16262

In article <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> writes:
|>When starting up a propane forge for metal melting, 
|>the first few minutes a bad smell
|>exists in the exhaust gases. When I remove the lid (there is a hole in it,
|>but presumeable too small during startup) it's gone.
|>It's cilindrical with a tangential hole where the torch enters the combustion
|>room in which a crucible is in the center. On top of it there is a lid
|>with a hole in the center. The diameter of the room is about 5-7 cm (2-3").
|>The smell is somewhat NOx like, but I am not sure. 
|>After a few minutes it's gone (it reaches 1100 C after 10 minutes and 1350 C 
|>after 15 minutes *inside* the crucible).
|>
|>What are these smells at startup ? Are these noxious ?


Just an educated guess:  When you burn propane (or most any hydrocarbon
fuel) you are combining a hydrogen/carbon fuel with oxygen, producing
water vapor (Hydrogen + Oxygen) and Carbon Dioxide (and possibly other
things like pure carbon (soot) if poorly adjusted).  When the furnace is
cold, some of the water vapor condenses into water, along with the compounds
they add to give the gas a unique smell, and possibly trace contaminants.
This is probably what you smell.  Once the furnace warms up enough to
prevent condensation of the water vapor, the smell goes away because the
combustion is more complete.

Corrections welcome!

Jim


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is David M. Macmillan here?
Message-ID: <1996Jul5.162525.23976@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 5 Jul 96 16:25:25 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net>
Distribution: world
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In article <felice.114.31DCACED@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) writes:
|>Frivolous and not technical:
|>Is David M. Macmillan here? I read his letter in this month's
|>Home Shop Machinist, and would like to correspond about
|>it via e-mail.

As of late in May, there was a David M. MacMillan who posted to
this newsgroup, from an address of dmm@lemur.com, and a web page
of http://www.msen.com/~lemur/

Jim


From jnewby@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!homer.alpha.net!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: John Newby <jnewby@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 18:31:07 -0400
Organization: -
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <31DD97AB.5256@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4rful0$l4s@news.knoware.nl> <4rhijq$aqo@crl12.crl.com> <shockey.566.002439F5@primenet.com>
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To: Jim Shockey <shockey@primenet.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30875 sci.chem:69052 sci.engr.chem:16263

Jim Shockey wrote:
> 
> In article <4rhijq$aqo@crl12.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
> 
> [delete]
> 
> >Most propane has an additive to provide an odor.  This lets you know that
> >gas is present because propane itself has no odor.  The odor is usually
> >methyl mercaptan and is in the propane at low concentrations.  It is not
> >harmful but is certainly noxious.  It is present at startup because of
> >incomplete oxidation.  When your air/propane ratio is not proper you will
> >always smell the stuff.
> 
> It's no big deal, Jerry; but, I think you meant to
> use the term "obnoxious" which means "very
> offensive; unpleasant." The common definition
> of  "noxious" is "harmful to health or morals;
> injurious or unwholesome." Your sentence didn't
> quite make sense or convey what you intended.
> 
> And, thanks for the info. I never knew what the
> name of that additive was.
> 
> Not trying to be picky, just more precise,  8-)
> 
> --jim                   <shockey@primenet.com>

I suspect that the smell in not methyl mercaptan, but is, as the poster
suggests, products of incomplete combustion, namely aldehydes, which
will be found at low temperatures even when there is plenty of air to
complete combustion.  The aldehydes are produced because the environment
is too cold for their combustion reactions to proceed to completeness
and the "intermediate" product's reactions are frozen.

Aldehydes and CO may both be produced in highly oxidizing atmospheres
when combustion reactions are taking place in cold environments.

John N.


From writt@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 19:41:32 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com>, F.Smith-IMService writes:

>Is there any interest in getting access to older versions of BobcadCam? 
>I may be able to offer them to individuals at a pretty hefty discount.
>Only the newest version is sold to companies, but if there is enough 
>interest, it's very likely that a special pricing deal can be set-up for
>home users.

I would be interested if the price is right and it is a legal copy of the
software.

Bill Rittner


From mcmeans@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:17 EDT 1996
Article: 30877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!not-for-mail
From: mcmeans@primenet.com (Arizona)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WANTED TO BUY
Date: 5 Jul 1996 16:44:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4rk9c3$4p@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
X-Posted-By: ip191.wik.primenet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Need a good used belt grinder, 2 X 48 or 2 X 72.
Ed 
mcmeans@primenet.com



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 16:39:04 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <31DDA798.63A0@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4rbkrg$4c8@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <4rbtdi$pmt@tin.monsanto.com> <Pine.BSD/.3.91.960704192423.27947D-100000@matrix.eden.com> <4ri62b$evj@wolfe.wimsey.com> <4rjs9s$bq9@news-2.csn.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Jul 05  4:37:50 PM PDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Justin Crom <jjcrom@csn.net>

Justin Crom wrote:
> 
> In article <4ri62b$evj@wolfe.wimsey.com>, mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com .....
> ..... mentioned here, the 2 flute variety is recommended for slotting.

I took me quite a while to figure out what Lautard meant by "slot drills"

Paul in AJ AZ


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!winternet.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 23:59:07 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4rka8b$euf@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> <4rhmf5$38j@blackice.winternet.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> <4rhmf5$38j@blackice.winternet.com> <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com>
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In message <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> - Jim Sehr
<jim111@ix.netcom.com>Thu, 04 Jul 1996 18:34:01 -0700 writes:
:->Peter 
:->I have about 8 copies of the bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
:->computer.

How about a 6x86 & OS/2 Merlin? Just kidding, I don't have the 6x86
yet<g>

:->It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it 
:->will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics 
:->before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of 
:->it that way.
:->It is well worth the $15. demo price just for the time saved to figure
:->the math for bolt circles, angles, radius, and it will do the g-codes
:->for you.
:->you can draw a part ,then check any ang.,rad, or dim. with the program.

I'd be mostly interested in the CAD part of it, I don't have any CNC
machines. The main problem with most of the CAD progs I've tried is
they are too hard to learn. I did try FastCad once, so far that was
the easiest to use for me. How's BCC as far as learning it?

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:18 EDT 1996
Article: 30880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WANTED TO BUY
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 16:53:35 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Arizona <mcmeans@primenet.com>

Arizona wrote:
> 
> Need a good used belt grinder, 2 X 48 or 2 X 72.
> Ed
> mcmeans@primenet.com

I'm very happy with my ENCO 4X36 (under $100) purchased at Tempe AZ (call first)

Paul in AJ AZ


From jim111@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 17:17:24 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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References: <4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com><4rdsk4$9uh@doc.zippo.com> <shockey.562.04E56057@primenet.com> <4rhmf5$38j@blackice.winternet.com> <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> <shockey.567.003C85FF@primenet.com>
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Jim Shockey wrote:
> 
> In article <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> 
> [delete]
> 
> >I have about 8 copies of the bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
> >computer.
> >It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it
> >will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics
> >before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of
> >it that way.
> >It is well worth the $15. demo price just for the time saved to figure
> >the math for bolt circles, angles, radius, and it will do the g-codes
> >for you.
> >you can draw a part ,then check any ang.,rad, or dim. with the program.
> 
> Hi, Jim. I've gotta push you a little on something.  :-)
> One of the features that BobCAD/CAM has stressed
> is its ability to accept input in the form of .DXF files.
> If this is fully functional except in the area of saving
> the CAD work, then does it still allow this input of
> externally generated .DXF files? If so, then one could
> do the entire job, albeit the hard way. Assuming that
> one has a CAD package that will generate .DXFs.
> 
> True or False?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --jim                   <shockey@primenet.com>
Hi Jim
bobcad has a readdxf function in the utility menu.And it has
a seperate dos program dgn2dxf. But i don't have the demo 
loaded anymore and i cann't be sure if it will do what you want.
Break down and spend $15 and find out. :-)

                                  jim111@ix.netcom.com


From kimberln@crl.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem,sci.engr.chem
Subject: Re: Why does a propane torch in a cold furnace stink ?
Date: 5 Jul 1996 18:31:46 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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NNTP-Posting-Host: crl13.crl.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:30882 sci.chem:69065 sci.engr.chem:16266

In article <shockey.566.002439F5@primenet.com>,
Jim Shockey <shockey@primenet.com> wrote:
>In article <4rhijq$aqo@crl12.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
>
>[delete]
>
>>Most propane has an additive to provide an odor.  This lets you know that 
>>gas is present because propane itself has no odor.  The odor is usually 
>>methyl mercaptan and is in the propane at low concentrations.  It is not 
>>harmful but is certainly noxious.  It is present at startup because of 
>>incomplete oxidation.  When your air/propane ratio is not proper you will 
>>always smell the stuff.
>
>
>It's no big deal, Jerry; but, I think you meant to 
>use the term "obnoxious" which means "very 
>offensive; unpleasant." The common definition 
>of  "noxious" is "harmful to health or morals; 
>injurious or unwholesome." Your sentence didn't 
>quite make sense or convey what you intended. 
>
>And, thanks for the info. I never knew what the 
>name of that additive was. 
>
>
>Not trying to be picky, just more precise,  8-)
>
>
>--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>

Go ahead and be picky. I am certainly not offended.  The stuff sure 
stinks though.  I think the maximum amount put into propane is quite low; 
I've heard 15 ppm which seems high to me.  Gas delivered to a house via 
the utility company also has mercaptans added as an oderant, but maybe 
not methyl mercaptan.  Wait till you smell the sulfur compound that is 
fishy, a real gut churning experience at higher levels.

Cheers,

JerryK


From jim111@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:19 EDT 1996
Article: 30883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Sehr <jim111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cad-Cam for home use?
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 19:46:53 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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Peter Drumm wrote:
> 
> In message <31DC7109.273F@ix.netcom.com> - Jim Sehr
> <jim111@ix.netcom.com>Thu, 04 Jul 1996 18:34:01 -0700 writes:
> :->Peter
> :->I have about 8 copies of the bobcad demo. It will even run on a 286
> :->computer.
> 
> How about a 6x86 & OS/2 Merlin? Just kidding, I don't have the 6x86
> yet<g>
> 
> :->It does the Cad & the Cam. It is a working copy of the program but it
> :->will not save drawings. but if you use the dos command graphics
> :->before you start the program you can print the screen and save part of
> :->it that way.
> :->It is well worth the $15. demo price just for the time saved to figure
> :->the math for bolt circles, angles, radius, and it will do the g-codes
> :->for you.
> :->you can draw a part ,then check any ang.,rad, or dim. with the program.
> 
> I'd be mostly interested in the CAD part of it, I don't have any CNC
> machines. The main problem with most of the CAD progs I've tried is
> they are too hard to learn. I did try FastCad once, so far that was
> the easiest to use for me. How's BCC as far as learning it?
> 
> pdrumm@dwave.net
> Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
> All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
Peter 
I think all cad programs are hard to learn. I went to school and took a 
class of Autocad. So I knew how to draw cad before I saw Bobcad. But I
think Bobcad is one of the easier programs to learn cad basics
                                         jim111@ix.netcom.com


From redrok@pclink.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Metal Dollar Store Bowl Question
Message-ID: <31DB0EE8.4244@pclink.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 17:23:04 -0700
References: <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <4q7i8t$kd9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4qrh6e$43m@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
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Marty Jones wrote:
> 
> >In article <4q1s5t$l3e@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>, shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim
> >Shoppa) writes:
> >
> >>What *is* the "appropriate warning about foodstuffs" for aluminum
> >>bowls?
> >>
> >>I just recently moved to Canada from the US, so perhaps I don't
> >>know about some public health law here that bans putting food in
> >>aluminum containers.  But why would there be such a ban, in any
> >>event?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >There is no appropriate warning about foodstuff in aluminum as far as I
> >know. However, it is advised not  to store food in aluminum as  tha acids
> >may eat through the container. I once had this happen to a pot of my
> >homemade chili.
> >
> >Bill Rittner
> 
> I'd be concerned about where the aluminum went that was "eaten".  Probably
> now exists as aluminum compounds in the food.  Might be harmful.
> 
> Marty Jones

The basic consern stems from the fact that there is an elevated 
quantity of aluminium atoms in the plack in the brains of alzhimers
patients. This elevated aluminium content, however, is not corelated
with the quantity of aluminium consumed. 

In general we consume several lbs. of aluminium in the dirt on food 
we eat each year. The aluminium in the pots and pans that we consume
each year is only a small percentage of our yearly quantity.

The atoms in the plack are not directly related to any known compounds
>from  coroded aluminium. 

This was reported in the book Galileo's Revenge. This book has many
examples of nonscience of which the aluminium scare was one example.

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From redrok@pclink.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Low Temp Differential Sterling Engine?
Message-ID: <31DB0BCE.2249@pclink.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 17:09:50 -0700
References: <babcock.8.00148434@infi.net>
Organization: Red Rock Energy
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Tom wrote:
> 
> Hi
> I probably missed this thread already, but I'm looking for plans for a low
> temp differential stirling cycle engine.  Any pointers would be appreciated.
> I've seen a couple advertised in Live Steam, and actually saw one at a show.
> Can't believe the prices!
> 
> Please e-mail response also.  Thanks,   Tom

Try this site. Bomin Solar. Swiss/German company.
http://www.tiac.net/users/pcag/bshhome.htm

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From redrok@pclink.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:20 EDT 1996
Article: 30886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Photoetching
Message-ID: <31D60005.19B9@pclink.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 21:18:13 -0700
References: <31D16362.40F7@worldnet.att.net>
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Patrick Giordani wrote:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I am interested in trying my hand at photoetching for jewelry
> fabrication, but have absoluely no idea how to go about doing it or how
> to make the equiptment. If anybody has some suggestions, please email me
> at lddemi@aol.com.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Patrick Giordani

I make printed circuit boards using an unusual technique.

The procedure uses a special paper that can be printed upon by a laser printer. The 
patern to be printed can be made by cad programs or paint programs. 

Laser printers melt the toner onto the paper. The special paper has the property of 
holding the toner only weakly as opposed to normal paper. The special paper is now 
placed on the work and remelted onto the work using an iron. After cool wash the special 
paper off the work with water. The toner left on the work is impervious to asids. The 
work can now be etched.

This paper can be obtained fro DigiKey in Thief River Falls, MN. It costs $3.00 per 
8.5"x11" sheat. 
-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From david@psnw.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Eiman <david@psnw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wtd. Collets in 10mm or "D" size or info.
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 20:25:06 -0700
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Does anyone happen to know where the "D" designation comes from on the 
10mm collets.  I have been trying to put a set of these together for 
some time and have some by Clement, Derbyshire and Levin.  

It is pretty well documented how the WW designation came about and who 
was given credit for starting this trend.  I can't seem to find any 
mention of the history of the "D" collet.

BTW, I can use some additional 10mm collets and would like to find a 
milling attachment in this size for a Derbyshire Magnus lathe.

            David Eiman                            AWI 18405
             Fresno, CA                             NAWCC 0072811

************************************************************************                                            
Collecting, buying, selling and trading antique and modern watchmakers                      
lathes.  Agent for Starrett WW collets and authorized Sherline dealer.                                                                                                                                                         
************************************************************************


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:21 EDT 1996
Article: 30888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 05:46:23 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward) wrote:
>I recenlty purchased one of those Taiwanese 9"X20" lathes (from Grizzley).  
>Well, I know it's not a Myford, but it seems to have posibilities, especially 
>at the price Grizzley is selling it at.
>
>Anyway, while trying to build some foolish thing, I bored out what I thought 
>was a 1-inch hole about 2.5" deep.  Turns out that the headstock was out of 
>allignment by about 0.0025/inch.  It is possible to adjust the headstock on 
>this lathe, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this.  I need to 
>measure both allignment with the ways AND perpendicularity.  I have dial 
>micrometer indicators.  I thought about using a short piece of 1/2 inch drill 
>rod in a Morse taper #3 collet, and taking measurments with an indicator 
>fastened to the cross slide.  (Bad part is, to get at the headstock adjustment 
>screws, I have to practically disassemble the entire thing.)

You have the right idea.  Place a hardened and ground shaft of known
straightness in the chuck or collet.  rotate the collet and use a dial
indicator to make sure it has no runout or wobble.  Re-chuck it until it
runs true (this isn't necessary, but it makes the job easier and more
foolproof).

Now run the carriage back and forth across the bar, and read the error.
Adjust the headstock until you get no movement of the indicator when
moving the carriage back and forth.  While you're at it, check for up/down
tilt in the headstock.

Oh, Yes.  before doing any horrible things to your lathe, make sure it is
absolutely level!  Use a 'Master Precision Level' with a resolution of
.0005"/foot or better for this task.  Yes, they are expensive, but
necessary.  I couldn't believe how far off my lathe was when I first got
my master level.

Adjusting the headstock when the problem is twist in the bed will give
you a false sense of security.  If you don't beleive me, you will find
out that you can put the indicator on the left of the carriage, adjust the
headstock for zero error, and then move the indicator to the right of the
headstock, and IT WON'T RUN TRUE!  If the bed is twisted, the only way to
fix it is spotting with a precision straightedge, or leveling with a
master level.  The level is a WHOLE lot easier!


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do the get the sodium in the valves?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 05:58:33 GMT
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Joe (joe84@ihgp14.ih.att.com) wrote:
: How do they get the sodium in the valves in the first place?

: Joe

I assume the whole operation is done in an inert atmosphere in some kind
of enclosed processing system.  I think the valves are made in one piece,
with a hollow stem, open at the rocker-arm end.  The sodium is either
melted and dripped in, or comes in the form of a thick wire that is cut to
the desired length and dropped in.  Then the end is welded closed, or an
end piece is welded on.  The end of the valve is then ground so that it
will slip through the guide.  I suspect that the next step is a dip into
a bubble chamber (in this case filled with fluorinert or light oil).  The
pressure in the bubble chamber is lowered, and the valves are visually
observed for bubbles.  Any that produce bubbles are thrown out.  They want
to be sure there are no leaks in these things.

If done carefully, this could actually be done in dry air, but the chance
of a fire is too great, I think.  So the inert atmosphere is most likely.
Nitrogen, Argon or something like that would be likely.  If they use
Argon, then they wouldn't even need to shield a mig welding electrode.
The whole chamber is shield gas!


From James.Foster@cdc.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:22 EDT 1996
Article: 30890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Foster x2912 <James.Foster@cdc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trumpets and the like
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 23:16:06 -0500
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John Swensen wrote (in the best response so far):
> 
> Every brass instrument I have examined is constructed of seamed, brass sheet
> stock. If you look very closely at a the bell, you should be able to detect a
> reddish line where the brass was brazed or hard soldered with a different metal.

Actually it's usually not reddish, but rather a "brighter" brass
look to my eye. You can sometimes see the squares in the edge because
they're usually stamped out with a "square wave" edge in order to make
it easier to align the edges when hard soldering them.

> (There is at least one instance of a pure silver trumpet from the Baroque period
> in a museum somewhere in Germany, I believe).
> 
> The roughly cylindrical sections are made by cutting some sheet stock, forming
> a rough cylinder, soldering, then placing it over a slightly tapered mandrel
> and drawing though one or more holes in lead plate. Very subtle differences
> in the taper can have dramatic influences on the tone and intonation of the
> instrument.
> 
> For the more conical bell sections, a piece of flat sheet is, again, bent around
> to meet itself and soldered, but then the piece is slipped over a mandrel and
> either hammered or spun (or both) to shape. The best trumpets have one-piece
> bells, but cheaper trumpets (and, perhaps, instruments with extreme flares like
> French horns) have the flare section soldered to the more conical section upwind
> of it.

Actually a lot of good trumpets may have two piece bells, and french
horn bell sections are spun in one piece just like smaller instruments
are. 

> 
> Gentle bends are formed by filling the tube with pitch or lead and bending
> over a form, although severe bends (like around the valves) may be made by
> soldering stamped halves of the bend together.

Tuning slide crooks are, as far as I know, bent to shape just like
any other piece of the horn. Tuning slides are an assembly of the 
crook, ferrules, slides, and braces, so only the end pieces are involved
in getting a tight bend.

> 
> After all the pieces are formed, they are soft-soldered together.
> --

Pretty much, but the valve assembly is treated as one piece and the
pistons, connecting tubes, and tuning slide stubs are all silver
soldered together. The valve bodies also have their tubing silver
soldered in place.


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plasma cutter advice wanted
Date: 6 Jul 1996 05:05:00 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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 jreiter@ais.net writes :

>I am looking at plasma cutters for my shop. Most of my work will >be with

>16ga to 1/4" sheet steel and the like. Occasionally, I want to cut
>heaver
>material.

>I've narrowed down my selection to Thermal Dynamics, PAK >Master 50
>or the Esab 750i. Does anyone have experience with these >machines? I'm
>told the Esab is more innovative, lower power consumption, >target
cutting
>feature for locating the torch on a previous cut, etc.

>Any suggestions?


The ESAB may sound nice, but I would rather chew my own foot off than
trust ESAB to make anything worth snot.
All their machines share a common goal.
How to make a machine that looks good and yet can be made with the
cheapest components available.
Just look at their MIG welders.
The ESAB 250 uses the same wire feeder that Hobart uses in their Handler
120. The Hobart 250 uses a wire feeder twice the size of the ESAB's, and
you can tell when using it.
Their power supplies have no stability since they leave out 2 filter
circuits that Hobart, Miller and Lincoln all include as standard
equipment, and just try to get parts.
ESAB is the largest manufacturer of welding equipment outside the US, but
it is smaller than either Hobart , Miller or Lincoln.
Don't trust them they are the " Huffy excercycles " of welding equipment.

Thermal Dynamics makes excellent machines. They were the first company to
make plasma cutters and still make the most accurate.
However if you are interested in more power for the money you should look
at the new line of Smith plasma cutters. There 55 amp machine is called a
1/2" machine , but can cut up to 7/8" steel. I've done it. 
The Thermal Dynamics Pak 50 is a more accurate machine for detail work,
but the 1/2" limit is very honest. Try cutting 5/8" steel and it bogs down
horribly.
The Smith also it much kinder to it's cutter tips.
The Smith cutters use a stationary ventury to swirl the air jet around the
inner electrode, so it is harder to damage the tip. The Thermal dynamics
cutters use a small inner electrode that actually spins in the air blast.
These electrodes tend to fuse quickly if allowed to get dirty. 
The Thermal dynamics Pak 50 weighs about 80 lbs.
The Smith 55 weighs about 32 lbs.
Need I say more.
Both machines require 50 amps of 220 single phase.
So I would sum up my heavily biased opinions as:

Thermal Dynamics Pak 50------ Beautiful accuracy, short tip live
                                                  ,  low top end power,
heavier unit.
Smith 55 --------------------Amazing power, long tip life
                                                   greater portability.
ESAB ------------------------ Nice boat anchor, pretty yellow 
                                                      color.

Another point of difference is that the Thermal Dynamics machines have
removable torches, while the Smith torches are hard wired in.

Best of luck
@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From paul@kemp.demon.co.uk Sun Jul  7 15:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Kemp <paul@kemp.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how do you clean components for oxygen service?
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 14:17:47 +0100
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>
>> JIMMY ARAKAKI:INDUSTRIAL DESIGN/VISUALIZATION SM2-SFO (james_a@verifone.com) 
>wrote:
>> : can anyone tell me how to clean hoses, fittings, valves etc for gaseous 
>oxygen
>> : service?
>> 
>> : I realize that this is potentially dangerous. Folks at welding supply shops
>> : will not talk about it for fear of lawyers.
>> 
>> : my specific application requires handling oxygen at about 125 PSI.
>> 

years ago I had a job assembling & testing valves for high pressure
oxygen service. 

Cleaning/degreasing was done with 1,1,1 trichloroethane.

The Valve stem threads were lubricated with a PTFE film, achieved by
dipping them into a PTFE suspension ("Klingerflon" if I remember
correctly). The valve packing was solid PTFE rings.

I hope that this is of help.

PS. be careful with 1,1,1 trichloroethane - read the safety data sheet
and follow all the precautions. 

Paul

-- 
Paul Kemp        E Mail:   paul@kemp.demon.co.uk


From dmauch@seanet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:23 EDT 1996
Article: 30893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bobcad
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 07:30:09 -0700
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
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What is the price. I am assuming that it is a fully functioning version 
with manuals. Does it require a dongle?


From dmauch@seanet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I need clipart or lineart of blacksmithing if you have any
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 07:31:52 -0700
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
Lines: 21
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Gene Olson wrote:
> 
> If you can use PCX and unzip a file,
> 
> Try Franklin Garland's home page at:
> http://www.mcs.net/~frnklyn/homepage/
> go to    Blacksmithing and Metal Art Resources
>        check at the bottom of the page.
> 
> You could also try some of the stuff on the Abana site, (links on same
> page.)
> 
> Gene
> --
> 
>  The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson  Metals, Stone, Mixed Media
>   8600 NE O'DEAN AVE, ELK RIVER, MN 55330
>   URL: http://www.concentric.net/~mettlewk/

Gee you can get Corel Draw version 3 for about $49. It has over 22000 
clip art images and symbols. Well worth the price.


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Headstock allignment techniques anyone?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 14:32:36 GMT
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
>wjward@umich.edu (William J. Ward) wrote:
>>I recenlty purchased one of those Taiwanese 9"X20" lathes (from Grizzley).  
>>Well, I know it's not a Myford, but it seems to have posibilities, especially 
>>at the price Grizzley is selling it at.
>>
>>Anyway, while trying to build some foolish thing, I bored out what I thought 
>>was a 1-inch hole about 2.5" deep.  Turns out that the headstock was out of 
>>allignment by about 0.0025/inch.  It is possible to adjust the headstock on 
>>this lathe, but I haven't figured out a good way to do this.  I need to 
>>measure both allignment with the ways AND perpendicularity.  I have dial 
>>micrometer indicators.  I thought about using a short piece of 1/2 inch drill 
>>rod in a Morse taper #3 collet, and taking measurments with an indicator 
>>fastened to the cross slide.  (Bad part is, to get at the headstock adjustment 
>>screws, I have to practically disassemble the entire thing.)
>
>You have the right idea.  Place a hardened and ground shaft of known
>straightness in the chuck or collet.  rotate the collet and use a dial
>indicator to make sure it has no runout or wobble.  Re-chuck it until it
>runs true (this isn't necessary, but it makes the job easier and more
>foolproof).
>
>Now run the carriage back and forth across the bar, and read the error.
>Adjust the headstock until you get no movement of the indicator when
>moving the carriage back and forth.  While you're at it, check for up/down
>tilt in the headstock.
>
>Oh, Yes.  before doing any horrible things to your lathe, make sure it is
>absolutely level!  Use a 'Master Precision Level' with a resolution of
>.0005"/foot or better for this task.  Yes, they are expensive, but
>necessary.  I couldn't believe how far off my lathe was when I first got
>my master level.
>
>Adjusting the headstock when the problem is twist in the bed will give
>you a false sense of security.  If you don't beleive me, you will find
>out that you can put the indicator on the left of the carriage, adjust the
>headstock for zero error, and then move the indicator to the right of the
>headstock, and IT WON'T RUN TRUE!  If the bed is twisted, the only way to
>fix it is spotting with a precision straightedge, or leveling with a
>master level.  The level is a WHOLE lot easier!

Jonathan, not to pick an argumant with you, but how would your method work on a ship?. Maybe 
there is a better way? I have found that the lathe will tell me whatever I need to know as to 
its alignment without resorting to spending money other than buying a mandrel[$20] and some 
stout round stock [$10] not a $100+ for a level.A level will only tell you that the tops of 
the ways are level, not what the saddle is doing. Other than keeping oil in the head stock and 
preventing tools from rolling around, the lathe couldn't care less if it's level, whats 
important is that it be "true". Cheers Bob



From mojoteri@ix.netcom.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:24 EDT 1996
Article: 30896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mojoteri@ix.netcom.com(Morris Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small model jet turbine engines
Date: 6 Jul 1996 15:03:53 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4rlv8p$7h3@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <onm010-2506962113510001@mueller.nucmed.medizin.uni-essen.de> <4r0rah$f5f@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r0ura$n93@news-e2d.gnn.com> <4r16iv$17s@sun2.ccf.swri.edu> <4r8raa$8k6@tribune.concentric.net> <pevans.331.31D8006A@mindlink.bc.ca> <4rjqc7$8uq@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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<snip>

Small model turbine engines do not violate any laws of physics.  They
are flying all the time nowdays.  At least three versions are in
production and available for purchase.  They can be seen in any model
airplane magazine reviewing model jets.

Due to the small size, low renolds number operating range, and scale
effects, only single stage radial compressors work well.  You could not
power a large craft with these as the thrust is below 30lbs for most of
them.

Materials and the fact they are placed in a model with balsa wood and
fibre glass limit the operating temperatures at the exhaust to 650
degrees or so.

The people who have built them seem to say that getting the balance
right is no big problem, and that it takes a "LOT" of tinkering to get
one to run well.  Most often, the blades do not fail, but rub the case,
and stop the turbine when too hot.

I have both the books mentioned.  They explain not only the
construction, but in a find german tradition, are a complete treatment
of the physics and math involved in the design.  If you enjoyed
thermodynamics in college, you will really enjoy reading these
chapters.

It can be done, 

Morris


From marcmartel@accent.net@mail.accent.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "marcmartel@accent.net" <marcmartel@accent.net@mail.accent.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Electrostatic process for a lacquer applied on polished bronze
Date: 6 Jul 1996 16:00:34 GMT
Organization: Total Net
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To: marcmartel@accent.net

What kind of equipment is needed?
Do you know where the material is available?
Is it expensive?
As a sculptor I use polished bronze occasionally.

Has anyone those informations?

             Thank you



From cynthia5@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cynthia5@aol.com (Cynthia5)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 6 Jul 1996 13:08:04 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I am also looking to connect with smiths on-line.  Just starting to build
a studio and want to share infor and ask questions--like everyone else I
guess.  I have a good background in metal-casting (foundry).  Have built
aluminum, bronze and iron casting furnaces.  Can run them.  Make molds
etc.  I realize its not smithing, but if anyone's interested, please
e-mail me. 
For now I'm interested in smithing.  Any suggestions for books, people to
contact, equipment sources would be apprectiated.
Thanks

Cynthia  (AOL  Cynthia5)


From cynthia5@aol.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:25 EDT 1996
Article: 30899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cynthia5@aol.com (Cynthia5)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a muller?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 13:08:55 -0400
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you can make a muller using a heavy duty cement mixer.  To get the sand to
mix, you're going to need to throw some bricks or what works better, large
steel balls, about 4-6 inches in diameter, into the mixer and sand. Its
pretty slick.  The bricks work , but could break up in the process and
then you've got molding and casting problems to deal with.  Feel free to
contact me if you have anymore foundry questions.  I've got a fairly
substantial background in casting.

Cynthia


From steamer@west.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Nifty idea, didn't sell...
Date: 6 Jul 1996 10:08:37 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--More Spring Cleaning news: about a decade ago I made a pile of 
these little do-dads that snap onto the feed-dials of milling machines 
and which rotate with the dial, indicating positions other than zero, 
i.e. for the *other* end of cuts that have to start and stop at certain 
points. Thinking I would find fame and fortune, I had a ton of the little 
buggers injection molded, so naturally they didn't sell worth beans. If 
you'd like a set of 3 (cheap) to equip all 3 axes of your mill, email me.
	 They're called "Dial-Minders" and they will fit the following 
brands of milling machines:
	Acra-Mill
	Alliant
	Bridgeport
	ENCO Bridgeport clone
	IPS Bridgeport clone
	Kent
	Maxmill
	R B-1
	Rutland
	Sharp
	Clausing Kondia
	Webb
		--TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Yikes, I'm 50!!! 	
	COMING SOON		:	The second THIRD of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microscopes
Message-ID: <1996Jul6.103413.906@flying-disk.com>
Date: 6 Jul 96 10:34:13 PDT
References: <00001f0c+00002cdd@msn.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 14

In article <00001f0c+00002cdd@msn.com>, Viking_X@msn.com (Bill  ) writes:

> A home machining project I'd really like to approach is the builing 
> of a microscope, but unfortunately I really don't know a damn thing 
> about optics!  

If memory serves me correctly, Model Engineer ran a series about
three years ago on building a microscope.   Perhaps someone else
can remember exactly when?

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From soriano+@pitt.edu Sun Jul  7 15:19:26 EDT 1996
Article: 30902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soriano+@pitt.edu (David  Soriano)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "Source of Metallic plaques?"
Date: 6 Jul 1996 18:57:33 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
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I need a sup[plier of small metallic plaques (about the diameter of a 
U.S. quarter or dime) which I can attach to my wooden designs. I would 
like simple themes such as a sketch of a man bowling or a bird profile. 
Somthing that can add an extra touch to my designs. Can anyone help with 
supplying such items or suggesting a manufacturer? Brass or aluminum is 
o.k.! Thanks, Dave


From egroff@q.continuum.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: egroff@q.continuum.net (Errol Groff )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: F.S. 16th Edition Machinerys Handbook
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 16:45:43
Organization: Continuum Communications Inc.
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I have an extra Machinerys Handbook (16th edition) for sale.  Bought another 
one because I didn't have this one on my list when I was book shopping.

$25 including shipping UPS.

Reply here or by e-mail.

Errol Groff 
H.H. Ellis Techincal School
Danielson, CT



From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Sun Jul  7 15:19:27 EDT 1996
Article: 30904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: drills for reamers?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 20:56:08 GMT
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Hi!

Are there any rules for figuring which is the largest drill one should use before reaming a hole?

Say, for example, that I want a 1/2" reamed hole.
I should buy a 1/2" reamer, but which is the largest drill I should use before starting the reamer?

Thanks in advance.

eduardo haddad filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br



From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Sun Jul  7 15:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: slakeless lime?
Date: 6 Jul 1996 20:53:33 GMT
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Hi!
I've been reading Lindsay's reprint of Pop Mech Lathe Book and I would like to try one of those recipes.
But I'm stumped  at the name "slakeless lime".
I've searched the Webster's Site and came up with:

  1. caustic lime

1. lime \'li-m\ n [ME, fr. OE li-m; akin to OHG li-m birdlime, L linere t]o
   smear, levis smooth, Gk leios 1: BIRDLIME 2a: a caustic highly infusible
   solid that consists of calcium oxide often together with magnesia and is
   obtained by calcining limestone, shells, or other forms of calcium
   carbonate 2b: hydrated lime 2c: CALCIUM
2. lime vt 1: to smear with a sticky substance (as birdlime) 2: to entangle
   with or as if with birdlime 3: to treat or cover with lime
3. lime aj : of, relating to, or containing lime or limestone
4. lime n [alter. of ME lind, fr. OE; akin to OHG linta linden] : LINDEN
5. lime n [F, fr. Prov limo, fr. Ar li-m] : a spiny tropical citrus tree
   (Citrus aurantifolia) with elliptic oblong narrowly winged leaves; also :
   its small globose greenish yellow fruit with an acid juicy pulp used as a
   flavoring agent and as a source of ascorbic acid


slake \'sla-k, vi 3 & vt 4 are also 'slak\ vb [ME slaken, fr. OE slacian,
   fr. sleac slack] obs  1: to slacken one's efforts : FLAG archaic  2: to
   become less violent, intense, or severe : ABATE 3: to become slaked :
   CRUMBLE {lime may ~ spontaneously in moist air} obs  1: SLACK obs  2a: to
   make less : DIMINISH archaic  2b: EASE, MITIGATE 2c: to lessen the force of
   : MODERATE 3: SATISFY, QUENCH 4a: to cause (as lime) to heat and crumble by
   treatment with water : HYDRATE 4b: to alter (as lime) by exposure to air
   with conversion at least in part to a carbonate

Is it just Calcium Oxide or is it something else?
Should I just shop for Calcium Oxide?

Many Thanks!

eduardo haddad filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br



From egroff@q.continuum.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: egroff@q.continuum.net (Errol Groff )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB Machinerys Handbooks
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 16:48:21
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Am interested in purchasing Handbooks in good condition.  Presently have the 
following editions: 5, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20 and 24.

Please post here or contact by email

Thanks in advance.

Errol Groff
H.H. Ellis Technical School
Danielson, CT



From brucep@prolog.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:28 EDT 1996
Article: 30907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brucep@prolog.net (Bruce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Delta Lathes
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 23:47:26 GMT
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Hello all,

I was looking at a Delta lathe today which was purchased from a school
auction. It was about an 8" x 36" size (didn't have my ruler and I
didn't get the exact model of the machine) not in to bad of shape,
although I am quite an amatuer in this new hobby. My first question is
does anbody out there have a similiar lathe? and could they offer any
advice on what I should look at ? Are parts still available for this
type of machine? There are a couple of lathes for sale with this
company and any and all advice from all u metal workers would be
appreciated. Also the asking price was $1200. This price was as is
with no "cleanup" done to the machine. Is this a reasonable asking
price? 

One more thing I was looking in some old Popular Mechanics mags. and
ran across an ad for a milling machine kit from a company called
Caldwell Industries out of Luling Texas. Does anbody know if this
company is still in business and might anyone have the plans for this
kit or similiar style of kit ? I've been using my drill press with an
"X Y" axis table with fair results for non-precise work. I don't have
the bucks to buy a new machine so I am looking for some advice ?
Thanks in advance.

Bruce



From fabnet@mail.cei.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: FabNet <fabnet@mail.cei.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drills for reamers?
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 20:33:53 -0500
Organization: fabnet
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ehaddadf@iis.com.br wrote:
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Are there any rules for figuring which is the largest drill one should use before reaming a hole?
> 
> Say, for example, that I want a 1/2" reamed hole.
> I should buy a 1/2" reamer, but which is the largest drill I should use before starting the reamer?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> eduardo haddad filho
> ehaddadf@iis.com.br

Now it's been 12 years since I studied this but best I can remember.
Typically you want to take off very little material with you reamer.
About .001-.006
You want to put as little strain on your reamer as possible, creating less
twist in your reamer, giving you a more accurate hole.
If I were drilling a 1/2" hole. I would:
Drill a 1/4" pilot hole
Then a 7/16" pilot
Then .496 or closest you have
Then ream that hole to .500
This would make a good accurate straight hole.

Hope this helped
Andy


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: slakeless lime?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Du5Fv3.5o@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4rmjod$ah0@ftp.iis.com.br>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 01:23:26 GMT
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In article <4rmjod$ah0@ftp.iis.com.br>,  <ehaddadf@iis.com.br> wrote:
>Hi!
>I've been reading Lindsay's reprint of Pop Mech Lathe Book and I would like to try one of those recipes.
>But I'm stumped  at the name "slakeless lime".

Slaked lime is calcium hydroxide, so slakeless lime may well be
calcium oxide or regular 'ol lime.  
-- 
Russ Kepler, at home	russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:29 EDT 1996
Article: 30910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: drills for reamers?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Du5FxH.74@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4rmjt8$ah0@ftp.iis.com.br>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 01:24:52 GMT
Lines: 15

In article <4rmjt8$ah0@ftp.iis.com.br>,  <ehaddadf@iis.com.br> wrote:
>Hi!
>
>Are there any rules for figuring which is the largest drill one should use before reaming a hole?
>
>Say, for example, that I want a 1/2" reamed hole.
>I should buy a 1/2" reamer, but which is the largest drill I should use before starting the reamer?

I try to get within .010" for a larger reamer, and .005 for something
in the .125" range.  You really don't want to take too much off with 
a reamer.
-- 
Russ Kepler, at home	russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From egroff@q.continuum.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: egroff@q.continuum.net (Errol Groff )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drills for reamers?
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 22:29:51
Organization: Continuum Communications Inc.
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>Hi!

>Are there any rules for figuring which is the largest drill one should use
>before reaming a hole?

>Say, for example, that I want a 1/2" reamed hole.
>I should buy a 1/2" reamer, but which is the largest drill I should use before
>starting the reamer?

>Thanks in advance.

>eduardo haddad filho
>ehaddadf@iis.com.br

A good rule of thumb is: under 1/2" drill 1/64" smaller than your finish size 
and over 1/2" drill 1/32" under finish size.

Hope this helps.  

Errol Groff



From daveb@iinet.net.au Sun Jul  7 15:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: daveb@iinet.net.au (David R Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hydroflouric acid- was "laundry suggestions"
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 01:02:12 GMT
Organization: iiNet Technologies
Lines: 26
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josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) wrote:

>In <4rh3fa$t1p@lanshark.lanminds.com> Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com> writes:

>>Hydroflouric acid is definitely not something to mess with unless you 
>>absolutely have to- for etching glass. The people that responded to 
>>Paolo's idiotic suggestion (that it be used to combat rust stains in 
>>clothing) with warnings were trying to save him (and those foolish 
>>enough to listen to him) from serious or fatal damage. 

>If the threat is really so serious, perhaps someone should ask
>the CPSC why hydrofluoric acid has been freely sold as a laundry
>and bathroom rust remover for decades, without any apparent need
>for a recall.  I wonder if they even keep injury records by type
>of cleaner?

I would check if that "rust remover" really is HF?

A little while ago, here in Perth, we had a case of HF poisoning,
following an industrial accident. It's slow, and nasty :-(

--  Dave Brooks <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key: finger  daveb@opera.iinet.net.au
                servers daveb@iinet.net.au
    fingerprint 20 8F 95 22 96 D6 1C 0B  3D 4D C3 D4 50 A1 C4 34



From gedwards@onramp.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Atlas Shaper Questions
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 22:14:43 -0500
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First...Thanks to all who responded to my request for help in obtaining 
a manual and/or parts list for my recently acquired Atlas 7" Shaper.  I 
have already received a copy of Catalog No. 7B and have another on the 
way from Clausing's Service Center ($5.00 - phone #(219)533-0403 they 
are very nice folks!).  All this information came from responses to my 
request for help.

New question:  Now that I'm armed with a Repair Parts List with 
Operating Instructions, I'm really learning how little I know about this 
new challange.  I understand why it is important to time the cross feed 
so that it happens during the idle stroke.  To make this happen when the 
table is feeding to the left (as I stand facing the front of the shaper) 
I set the small lever on the side of the ratchet gear case to the letter 
L and the slide nut on the crank disc to the side marked R...the table 
feeds Left and advances on the idle stroke.  What confuses me is that I 
am setting the slide nut to the side marked R.  The instructions tell 
you to "secure the slide nut on the proper half of the crank disc".  On 
my machine "the proper half" appears to be marked R when setting the 
small lever to L which moves the table to the left on the idle stroke.  
If I set the slide nut to the side marked L, the table advances on the 
power stroke.  Is this normal on your machine?

"Left vs Right"...the Parts List/Operations Instructions seems to have 
conflicting data on this as well.  Under the "Cross Feed" category it 
identifies that when the small lever is set to R the table travels to 
the Right "when viewed from the front"....which is the way I was taught 
to use...e.g. "from the operator's position".  And this happens as 
stated.  In the Parts information it states that the serial number plate 
is on the Right side of the shaper frame and the illustration shows this 
to be the Left side as seen from the front of the machine.  The serial 
number notation also states that on shapers without this plate the 
serial number is found on the Left Frame Way.  Mine is an older machine 
(S/N 1269) and is stamped in the "Left Frame Way" which is on the Right 
side as you face the front of the machine.

Everything seems to be working fine in spite of my Left/Right confusion. 
Does this information match up with your machine and your findings?

Thanks again for being there and responding,

George


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plasma cutter advice wanted
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 23:49:15 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <blake-0607962349160001@206.84.2.53>
References: <4rgc5g$7jq@news.ais.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-4.ncweb.com

In article <4rgc5g$7jq@news.ais.net>, jreiter@ais.net wrote:

}I am looking at plasma cutters for my shop. Most of my work will be with 
}16ga to 1/4" sheet steel and the like. Occasionally, I want to cut heaver
}material.
}
}I've narrowed down my selection to Thermal Dynamics, PAK Master 50
}or the Esab 750i. Does anyone have experience with these machines? I'm
}told the Esab is more innovative, lower power consumption, target cutting
}feature for locating the torch on a previous cut, etc.
}
}Any suggestions?
}
}Thanks,
}
}Jeff
}jreiter@ais.net

At one time I thought I would like a Pak Master 50 -- until I tried one. 
They are quite weak, though do have a very fine tip which is good for
detailed work in thin stuff.  Very weak when it comes to power though.

I believe the ESAB is Jap and is of low quality.

Of the machines currently available, I would choose the new "Powermax 800"
Hypertherm.  It has a nice handling torch and good visibility, and can
easily cut over 1/2" plate.  Request that they not give give you the new
"safety trigger" torch though.  It's very awkward and agrevating to use. 
I believe this machine is priced about the same as the Pak Master 50. 
It's also very portable.  I have a Lincoln myself.

Hope this helps you out.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plasma cutter advice wanted
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 23:56:13 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <blake-0607962356140001@206.84.2.53>
References: <4rgc5g$7jq@news.ais.net> <4rla7s$lsc@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-4.ncweb.com

}However if you are interested in more power for the money you should look
}at the new line of Smith plasma cutters. There 55 amp machine is called a
}1/2" machine , but can cut up to 7/8" steel. I've done it. 
}The Thermal Dynamics Pak 50 is a more accurate machine for detail work,
}but the 1/2" limit is very honest. Try cutting 5/8" steel and it bogs down
}horribly.
}The Smith also it much kinder to it's cutter tips.
}The Smith cutters use a stationary ventury to swirl the air jet around the
}inner electrode, so it is harder to damage the tip. The Thermal dynamics
}cutters use a small inner electrode that actually spins in the air blast.
}These electrodes tend to fuse quickly if allowed to get dirty. 
}The Thermal dynamics Pak 50 weighs about 80 lbs.
}The Smith 55 weighs about 32 lbs.
}Need I say more.
}Both machines require 50 amps of 220 single phase.
}So I would sum up my heavily biased opinions as:

I have not had the opportunity to try a Smith (can't find one that works),
but I don't feel they are built as good as either the Thermal Dynamics,
Hypertherm, or Lincoln.  The torch I held onto sure seemed awkward- you
have to hold it way back from your work.  The Smith looks like something
Northern Hydraulics would mail order.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hydroflouric acid- was "laundry suggestions"
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 00:04:13 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <blake-0707960005000001@206.84.2.53>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-4.ncweb.com

Oxalic acid works great for removing rust and iron stains from clothing,
dishes, and sinks.  It is available at most pharmacies.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From blake@ncweb.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "Source of Metallic plaques?"
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 00:11:16 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <blake-0707960012030001@206.84.2.53>
References: <4rmcut$f0m@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-4.ncweb.com

In article <4rmcut$f0m@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, soriano+@pitt.edu (David 
Soriano) wrote:

}I need a sup[plier of small metallic plaques (about the diameter of a 
}U.S. quarter or dime) which I can attach to my wooden designs. I would 
}like simple themes such as a sketch of a man bowling or a bird profile. 
}Somthing that can add an extra touch to my designs. Can anyone help with 
}supplying such items or suggesting a manufacturer? Brass or aluminum is 
}o.k.! Thanks, Dave

Try Fargo Rubber Stamp Works at 701-235-5347 or email FRSIND@awards.com.


I think they would have them.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Metal Signs<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From rick427@primenet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rick427@primenet.com (Richard Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need source for roto-rooter cable
Date: 6 Jul 1996 21:29:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 20
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Sorry for a post that's a bit off-topic, but there's a lot of
knowledgeable persons following this group and maybe someone can help
me.  Thanks.

I've got a Spartan main-line roto-rooter that needs a new 100-foot
3/4" cable (inner-core type preferred).  Also a Milwaukee electric
drain auger that needs a 5/16" cable.  

My question is, does anyone know a supply source for universal
replacement cables for electric snakes and roto-rooters?  The dealer
wants about $250 for a new Spartan cable, and I'm hoping someone can
recommend a slightly cheaper supply source.  I'd be surprised that
snake cable isn't manufactured generically and knowing who sells
universal-fit cable would save me money over buying name-brand cables
>from  the snake manufacturer.

Richard Walker
Irvine, CA
rick427@primenet.com



From myzr@ldl.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jack <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source of thin spring steel
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 01:35:48 -0700
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> Clarence Noyer (ccnoyer@whidbey.com) wrote:
> : Harvey Freeman asked about spring steel rod---
> 
> : First choice--spring steel mobile antenna
> 
> Ah, yes!  Of course!  Go to an auto junkyard, and look for mid-70's
> Chrysler cars, or japanese cars with roof-post antennas.  

...Some VHF antennae (as used on police cars and taxis) are *very* thin, 
3/32 or so, and quite springy; check with a local radio shop as the 
antenna is furnished with about a 27" rod and must be cut to match the 
frequency...I install radios in cabs and have pieces in my tool drawer 
abot 10" long that I have reshaped into dozens of special tools.  A note 
here, if you get one from a salvage yard, take a file with you to cut it, 
you'll not part it with a hacksaw or lineman's pliers..

			Jack


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun Jul  7 15:19:30 EDT 1996
Article: 30920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Removing broken taps
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Watch makers / jewelers supply firms sell a white cream known as screw 
remover.  Just put a little on the end of the broken tap, and heat 
gently  until the reaction starts.  I have a jar of it, no use giving a 
brand name, the bottle is a few years older than me!  Other brands were 
still available 10 years ago though.
-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Q: How are steel bottles made?
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According to my sources, the modern ones are spun.  During WW2 a lot of 
military tanks were coiled & welded at the same time.  The latter are not 
considered safe for re use.


In a previous article, daveb@iinet.net.au (Dave) says:

>Something I have often wondered, is how such things as oxygen
>cylinders are made? I understand they can't simply be cast: they have
>to be forged. But how to forge a hollow object with such a small neck?
>They don't seem to be made in 2 halves & welded up, either.
>
>Please, someone enlighten me :)
>
>--  Dave Brooks <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
>PGP public key: finger  daveb@opera.iinet.net.au
>                servers daveb@iinet.net.au
>    fingerprint 20 8F 95 22 96 D6 1C 0B  3D 4D C3 D4 50 A1 C4 34
>
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: need help tempering a spring
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First, heat it red hot and allow to cool.  Then heat to red heat again & 
quench.  Then:

(1) Bury it in brass filings in a tin lid or whatever is handy.  Put a 
clean piece of the same material on top of the filings.  Heat underneath
until the piece on top turns a nice " clockspring " blue.  Then tip the lot
into some water.

(2) No brass filings?  Do this instead:
Suspend the spring by a piece of wire in the middle of a small pot of 
olive oil. It should be pure olive oil.  Heat to desired temperature and 
hold long enough to saturate the spring ( With heat ).  Olive oil boils at
600 F at sea level.  For a harder temper, use a thermometer that reads to 
600F or a bit higher, and consult Machinerys for the temp for the steel 
you have.  Some deep fat thermometers sold for the restaurant trade will 
work for this. I have an ancient pyrometer that reads to 900F, which was 
intended for this sort of thing.



In a previous article, clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu (Charles L. Rowe) says:

>         I have to duplicate a small helical compression spring.
>      So far, I have formed it to the proper shape, but how
>      do I temper it?  I have the usual home shop equipment
>      at my disposal - a propane torch and some quenching oil 8*) 
>       
>       						thanks,
>						Charlie
>

-- 
************************************************************************
     MY SECRET IS OIL OF HARLEY DAVIDSON !      Steve Rayner
************************************************************************



From davida05@sprynet.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:31 EDT 1996
Article: 30923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Foundry work
Date: 7 Jul 1996 12:26:23 GMT
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 Cynthia - you mentioned casting aluminum, brass and cast iron. I have
done aluminum and brass, but would like to graduate to cast iron. Is your's a home made melting furnace?
Small cupolas have been built for iron, but I hesitate to make one because
of the elaborate prep time, fuel requirments etc.  What did you use? Dave


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Sun Jul  7 15:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill 4 flutes vs 2
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 12:42:12 GMT
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On Tue, 02 Jul 1996 17:09:47 GMT, johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Anyone why both two and four flute end mills are available.  Where and
>when and why would I use each?
>
>Thanks,
>John
>
>
>
>Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
>with arrows in their backs.
>Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
>6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
>Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6
>
i hardly ever use 4 flute mills. the two flutes are much stronger an
will hog metal much faster. in soft metals 2 flute is the only choice
for anything except playing around.  in a  shop where time is money
the mills are allways pushed to the limit. everyone i know has found
that 4 flute load up easier, break easier. the only time i use 4 flute
is when i'm facing off ends of parts that are 2-4 inches thick in one
pass, then i use a long 3/4 or 1' 4 flute. well anyway it seems to be
personal choice does'nt it? what about 3 flute? are they the happy
middle? 

danny


From dukovurl@gramercy.ios.com Sun Jul  7 15:19:32 EDT 1996
Article: 30925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Dworzan <dukovurl@gramercy.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Vapourising burners
Date: 7 Jul 1996 14:32:24 GMT
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To: steamer@west.net

I hope I'm not too late. I saw your post (Ed Hass) late nite but did not 
respond due to being totally new to e-mail and posting. Anyway, I've 
built a few high speed, class B flash steam model hydroplanes based 
upon the Alan Rayman designs and I, too, have a collection of 
experimental burners laying around in my scrap box. I assume we're 
talking about the same thing: a gasoline fired blowlamp consisting of a 
pressurized tank connected to a flame tube with a vapourising coil 
wrapped around it? If so, I would be more than happy to pay the freight 
to see what you've been up to. Although my lamps have been generally 
succesful and cover a variety of sizes, I have not been too succesful in 
making an dependable needle valve control for use with radio control; the 
temperature developed at the backhead causes the valve to expand, which 
in turn causes the pressurized fuel to issue out around the valve stem 
packing. I have since had to settle for a fixed design with a simple 
screw down control on the tank, but this is not effective in taming the 
ferocious beast. Please e-mail particulars if still available. PS Happy 
birthday!




From F.Smith-IMService Sun Jul  7 15:19:33 EDT 1996
Article: 30926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: F.Smith-IMService
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bobcad
Date: 6 Jul 1996 23:00:41 -0700
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In article <31DE7871.7D2B@seanet.com>, Dan says...
>
>What is the price. I am assuming that it is a fully functioning version 
>with manuals. Does it require a dongle?

Dan,
	Price hasn't been set yet.  Bobcad V14.1 is $995, Bobcad for Windows
is $595, and $995 with Coon's patch, skin surfacing.  Only Windows versions
require dongle.

If we were to offer say v12.0 for DOS, what would you say was a fair price?  

V12.0 is the same version as the crippled demo, with file save, communication,
and printing.  I sell many seats of BobCad-Cam to small machine shops, and use
it at my own.  There is a lot of discussion of pro's and con's here, and it 
seems that more and more home shops are finding a way to squeeze in a piece of
CNC equipement.

If there is sufficient interest here, I will try to leverage my volume & 
connectons with Bobcad, to provide a less expensive package for the home/
non-commercial user.


          Best Regards,

          Fred Smith
          IMService

E-Mail:   imserv@BizServe.com
Phone:    810/486-3600
Fax:      810/486-3698

Snail:    IMService
          P.O. Box 142
          New Hudson, MI 48165 USA


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:19:48 EDT 1996
Article: 31740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
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ahaffner@aft.sn.no (Andreas Haffner) wrote:

>> ->    What is a "fluidine" pump? I did a couple of searches and
>> couldn't find ->    this word.
 
    Try 'fluidyne' and you may have better luck.  These engines
were made by the Metal Box Company of India and by floating a light
hollow metal 'piston' on top of the water to isolate it from the
hot air, they obtained a useful improvement in efficiency

  -- 
      Cheers - Mick


From shockey@primenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:49 EDT 1996
Article: 31741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oscillating and Ericcson Engines?
Date: 21 Jul 1996 06:31:01 -0700
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In article <4sse60$iv8@news.chatlink.com> soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) writes:
>From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
>Subject: Oscillating and Ericcson Engines?
>Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 05:36:27 GMT

>Could someone tell me how the oscillating steam engine works?
>I have seen pics of it, and it apparently does not seem to have 
>any obvious valves. Is this engine that simple? Is it only
>for special low power purposes or can it be upscaled for
>heavy work?


Take a look at the drawing found at the 
following URL:

http://www4.infoanalytic.com/modeltec/dodi.htm

This should explain the basic principle of 
the thing. How much work you can get out 
of one, I don't know. But, I bet someone 
here could give us an idea. 


Good luck,


--jim			<shockey@primenet.com>


From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:19:50 EDT 1996
Article: 31742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Model Engineer Exhibition-Dates???
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 13:21:13 +0100
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In article <31EEE3B3.62DF@onramp.net>, George Edwards
<gedwards@onramp.net> wrote:

> What are the dates of the Model Engineer & Modelling Exhibition this 
> year in London.  I know it normally starts around New Year's Day and 
> lasts for a week or so.  I have been told that it starts on either Sat 
> the 28th or Sun the 29th of Dec and runs through January the 3rd.

I believe it starts on the 28th this year. Not sure on the closing date.

 
> Can anyone confirm these dates and/or provide the actual dates.  Also, 
> does anyone know of a home page relative to this event?

Smiley missing from that last comment :-) 


- Nigel.

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:51 EDT 1996
Article: 31743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman scroll saw
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David 

I have one of those also.   Bought it from an antique dealer.   Rescued it
>from  a future life of sitting on a hearth the rest of its life.

Don't have a manual, but if I could find my old 49-50 sears power tool
catalog, I think it sold for $14

Try 30 W oil that is what was universally acceptable back them.

Cecil in OK


From hotarn@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:52 EDT 1996
Article: 31744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rust Remover for Fabrics
Date: 21 Jul 1996 09:08:56 -0400
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          Is there a warning label on Lemon Juice? Where can I get MSDS's
for it?
After all if it removes rust from fabric it must be absolutely TOXIC!
          Come on folks, lets all chip in and buy the poor soul a new
shirt and put this baby to bed....





  Truely tired of this subject,
Daniel G. Bridenbaugh 
Blacksmith
Arcanum,Oh
hotarn@aol.com          

Daniel G. Bridenbaugh


From hotarn@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:53 EDT 1996
Article: 31745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leadscrews and slides...Or why OSH does not need any poodles
Date: 21 Jul 1996 09:21:46 -0400
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In article <31f005c4.1471001@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(bikerbil) writes:

>On 18 Jul 1996 14:21:16 -0700, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:
>
>>Distribution: 
>>
>>	OBTW, some tip-offs that you *might* be in the *right* hardware 
>>store: 	--Bad lighting
>>	--Wooden floors
>>	--customers crawling around huge shelves in the back, behind a 
>>loooong counter
>>	--Absence of those tacky uniform vests
>>		 
>
>            You cant forget ..
>
>
>	No air conditioning
>
>	No Cash register.. Though some of the fancier places
>               places will have a cash draw w\a solinoid. But its
>
>               usally just a sweaty wad of cash from the owners
>
>               pocket
>       
>               And the pay phone behind the counter. For incoming
>
>               calls
>
>

Hey , 
  That sounds great. Do you think they will be expanding to OHIO soon?





<g>
db


Daniel G. Bridenbaugh


From cynthia5@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:54 EDT 1996
Article: 31746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cynthia5@aol.com (Cynthia5)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: green with copper
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Typically you get blue colors with ammonia fume patinas but it will vary
with air temp, humidity, etc.  And you don't necessarily need to use a
gallon of ammonia.  I've found that a half a cup works well.
For greens you might want to try copper nitrate or copper sulphide.


From gxmiller@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:55 EDT 1996
Article: 31747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gxmiller@aol.com (GXMiller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 21 Jul 1996 09:55:45 -0400
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I've heard that a Skil saw will cut sheet metal better if you put the
blade in backwards.


From cynthia5@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:19:56 EDT 1996
Article: 31748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cynthia5@aol.com (Cynthia5)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper Patina Recipies
Date: 21 Jul 1996 10:07:11 -0400
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Copper is very easy esy to patina unless you want to get into the red
colors.  They are the most difficlut.  There are several good books on the
market.  Try Ronald Young's books--one is Methods For Modern Sculptors. 
Also, "The coloring and Patination of Bronze" is great tho a very
expensive book...and highly toxic in terms of chemicals needed to get the
patinas.  
Some safety precautions regarding patination:  do it in a well ventilated
area.  Always wear latex gloves, a respirator with metal fume filters and
safety glasses.  When you're done, take off the shirt or jacket you're
wearing and if you've got kids, don't let them touch your clothes.  Some
of the stuff is highly toxic.
For a starting patina you might try this.  Its inexpensive and safe.  Get
a 5 gallon buck (or container that will hold the piece you want to color. 
Lay a brick or two in the bottom of it.  Pour is a cup or half cup of
household ammonia.  Set your piece on the brick/s and seal the container. 
Leve it for a few days and check the color.  You should get rich
blues--turquoise to Prussian blue.  When the color is what you want,
remove it from the container.  Wear gloves.  You don't want to get oil
>from  your hands on the piece or knock the patina off the surface of the
metal.  Its (the patina) very fugitive at this point.  You'll need to seal
the metal.  A spray can of matte finish for charcoal drawing works well. 
It doesn't diffuse the patina as much as wax or laquer.  
Keep in mind that patinas are very unpredictable.  What you get one time,
you may never get again.  And when you seal the work, you'll lose some of
the intensity of the color.

Cynthia  (Cynthia5 @ AOL)


From brand@media.mit.edu Sat Aug  3 11:19:57 EDT 1996
Article: 31749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Matthew Brand <brand@media.mit.edu>
Subject: MIG welding aluminum w/small rig
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A friend claims to have seen an artist weld aluminum with a little 120V
MIG home welding rig.  Is this possible?


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:19:58 EDT 1996
Article: 31750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: typos
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Sorry for all the typing errors in my last two posts.  The server here is 
sending out the mistakes, instead of the corrected text.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From panache@li.net Sat Aug  3 11:19:59 EDT 1996
Article: 31751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!li.net!usenet
From: Paul Schiller <panache@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sources for tiny springs?
Date: 21 Jul 1996 15:04:58 GMT
Organization: PDA Panache, Inc.
Lines: 23
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To: rnichols@interaccess.com
X-URL: news:Dutz5q.MG1.0.omega-3@interaccess.com

rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
>I'm looking for a source for tiny compression springs for a mechanical
>model.  The springs need to have a O.D. no larger than 0.075" and a
>relaxed length of around 0.300".  I did get a few springs of that size
>from a locksmith/distributor, but they're a bit stiff for what I want.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
We buy quite a few small size springs from:
Century Spring Corp.
222 E. 16th st.
Los Angeles, CA 90015
1-800-237-5225
1-213-749-1466
Free catalog and stock parts info available on a windows disk.
They will send samples in small quantities for you to try out.

Paul Schiller
PDA Panache, Inc.




From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Sat Aug  3 11:20:00 EDT 1996
Article: 31752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (bikerbil)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman scroll saw
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 15:34:22 GMT
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On 21 Jul 1996 09:01:58 -0400, cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438) wrote:

>David 
>
>I have one of those also.   Bought it from an antique dealer.   Rescued it
>from a future life of sitting on a hearth the rest of its life.
>
>Don't have a manual, but if I could find my old 49-50 sears power tool
>catalog, I think it sold for $14
>


1949 Sears Catalog..

Describes a scroll saw similar to what you guys are talking about.

Belive it or not 
                     $75.oo for the 24 inch model.
                     $32.oo for the 18 inch.
                 


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:02 EDT 1996
Article: 31753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Books, Advice Please
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 07:24:12 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>

Mike Rehmus wrote:
> 
> You might consider a few relevant video tapes on lathe
> and mill operation.
> 
> Then, go to your local community college or other location
> for machine technology training and see what they use for
> a text book.
> 
> The best is to take at least the introductory course.  You
> will learn more, faster than in any other method.  And, you
> get to play with some nice machinery.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Mike Rehmus

Second the motion...

Mike wouldn't kid you on that...

Paul in AJ AZ



From ulfbe@ikp.liu.se Sat Aug  3 11:20:03 EDT 1996
Article: 31754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!psgrain!solace!news.ifm.liu.se!usenet
From: Ulf Bengtsson <ulfbe@ikp.liu.se>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mr. G.H. Thomas
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 16:32:26 +0000
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On June 26 I asked for information about Mr G.H. Thomas. I have been on holiday for a 
few weeks and would like to thank all for the information given.

I have also spoken to Mr. Niel Hemingway ( http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/hemingway/ ) 
who was a personal friend of mr. Thomas. He added to the information that Mr. Thomas 
worked with automatic gearboxes somewhere in the United States  between the 
worldwars. We both agreed that his designs are in a class of its own.

Thanks for your efforts
Ulf B


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:04 EDT 1996
Article: 31755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!inXS.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Combo Shear, Brake, & Roll
Date: 21 Jul 1996 16:52:03 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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I have one from ENCO.  It is identical to those you
mentioned.

I think it is a good value (bought mine for ~ $300 when
ENCO had a sale) but there are some caveats:

1.  It requires a heavy and stable base.  Preferrably
    bolted to the floor because operation requires a
    fair amount of pressure on the operating lever.
2.  It must be leveled and aligned for it to work
    properly.  It is fair to say that snow sled
    manufacturers would love to have the flexibility
    built into the frame. (anyone remember the Flexible Flyer?)
3.  One should probably build a second operating lever and
    improve the mechanism that clamps the lever onto the
    drive shaft.
4.  You do need a fair bit of walk-around room for
    the unit.  It will not work well if you back it
    up to a wall because you cannot get around to the
    back to adjust guides, etc.
5.  The press brake is, as you may know, a more difficult
    design with which to work.  It is not nearly as
    apparent where the fold line will be placed as on
    a regular sheet metal brake.  There are just too
    many variables so you are forced to set up the guides
    for most bends.

If one understands the limitations and requirements of
this tool, it is nice to own and, given the price of
the three tools in individual form, the only one I could
afford.  It also takes up much less space than the three
separate tools.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:05 EDT 1996
Article: 31756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill moving and how to get things in & out of the basement
Date: 21 Jul 1996 16:56:53 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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I submitted several things to Guy.  He won't commit to using
them or not, nor when TMBR # 4 might appear.

It is a bit frustrating so I'm off doing my own thing with
the BAEM newsletter, The Crank Calls.

Much of what I find time to write is in the newsletter.  I
have recently started posting it in my own WEB site.  The
plan is to accumulate the technology articles into their
own section.

If only I had enought time to do it all!  So little time,
so many toys!

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus





From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:06 EDT 1996
Article: 31757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!inXS.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAVE $$$ EAT MEAT-{ N
Date: 21 Jul 1996 16:59:32 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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The possibilities of emulating Kobe beef
slicing techniques with the microtome is good.

If you have seen Kobe beef in the raw, before
cooking, you would know you can almost see
through the slices.

I'm glad I didn't have to pay for that meal!

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:07 EDT 1996
Article: 31758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG welding aluminum w/small rig
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 16:49:17 GMT
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On Thu, 18 Jul 1996 13:41:21 GMT, Matthew Brand <brand@media.mit.edu> wrote:

>A friend claims to have seen an artist weld aluminum with a little 120V
>MIG home welding rig.  Is this possible?

He was probably looking at a MillerMatic 130 MIG unit, which can be operated
off 110-120v or 230v, BUT it would have to be thin Alum, prob < 1/8" and
you're gonna have to be pretty good to do a decent job with Mig on that thin
Alum. Things move right along when Mig'ing Alum. Maybe it it's art though,
you could think of your bad welds as creative expression 8).

Garfield


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:20:09 EDT 1996
Article: 31759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oscillating and Ericcson Engines?
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 18:45:21 BST
Organization: home
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shockey@primenet.com (Jim Shockey) wrote:

> . How much work you can get out  of one, I don't know. 

  Small oscillating steam engines developing several HP were
once made as 'wall engines'.  Mounted directly on the wall of
a shop they took up little space and were used for driving
machines of all kinds.  These were often fitted with some
form of valve gear to permit expansive working..
  Much larger oscillating engines up to several hundred HP 
were used in early paddle steamers.  These invariably had
valve gear to allow the ship to run astern.

  The Ericsson (cycle) engine is a complicated type of hot air
engine using valves.  Although many hundreds were made in FHP
sizes, they were not popular due to noisy operation and valve
trouble.  So Ericsson turned to the Stirling cycle in which
the same air is alternately heated and cooled to create the
pressure variations needed to drive the power piston.  No 
valves are used and although efficiencies were low these 
engines were made in large numbers and gave good service.

  Most of the remaining Ericsson engines and virtually all
the model engines, are of this later design - apart from the 
linkage, they are virtually inverted copies of Stirling's 
first engine.

  Incidentally, Ericsson originally intended his engine to
run on solar heat and "bring power to the desert".
  -- 
      Cheers - Mick




From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:10 EDT 1996
Article: 31760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC Newsgroup
Date: 21 Jul 1996 12:23:19 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <babcock.43.005E98BB@infi.net>, Tom <babcock@infi.net> wrote:
>In article <31F0E52B.65D5@seanet.com> Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com> writes:
>>From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
>>Subject: CNC Newsgroup
>>Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 06:54:51 -0700
>
>>Afew months back there was a post on a new cnc newsgroup. Many readers 
>>of this newsgroup were unable to access it. Has it become available?
>
>>Dan
>
>I had a listing in my news reader for  alt.machines.cnc  but it now gives me 
>an error:   411 no such news group.   ???
>
>Tom

It does exist.  They are up to article 237 now.  Not a lot of activity 
but at least a readership.

JerryK


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:11 EDT 1996
Article: 31761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill moving and how to get things in & out of the basement
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 12:31:02 -0700
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To: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>

Mike Rehmus wrote:
> .........m off doing my own thing with
> the BAEM newsletter, The Crank Calls.
> 
> Much of what I find time to write is in the newsletter.  I
> have recently started posting it in my own WEB site. ........

I've seen your posting for the Metal Web News-Great...
Where is your website?
Type out the URL and we can go right there from this group..


> .....Theplan is to accumulate the technology articles into their
> own section.

Read your backplate article.  Now if only someone would do one on
the D1-4 spindle.  Although after getting a 7" one from Wholesale
Tool Co. for $29-why? It has a wide slot cut in it.  I'm hoping to 
use it for a small faceplate.

> 
> If only I had enought time to do it all!  So little time,
> so many toys!
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Mike Rehmus

Paul in AJ AZ



From redrok@pclink.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:12 EDT 1996
Article: 31762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Stirling VS Piston Steam?, etc.
Message-ID: <31F2A69E.3D60@pclink.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 14:52:30 -0700
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Colin Morton wrote:
> > Why not use a Stirling "fluidine" pump to drive a small generator. These
> > will work on temperature differences of less than 170 degrees.
> >
> 
> Does any one have a copy of the Mother news article that" Steamboat Ed" is
> referring to? Also the No 56 March/Paril79 solar furnace article.

This is to easy. That is the Mother Earth News #56 March/April 1979 issue.

> Here in West Aus I have heard of Mother Earth, But never heard of Paril. and
> I  have no means of accessing them. Please if any one has a copy can you
> mail it to me.

I don't have the article in front of me but I can describe the system in general.
This article and one in 1972 (I think) started my investigations into mirror
type solar collecters. 

This collecter is not a parabolic collector although it has many of the advantages.
It is not a heliostat as the receiver is inline with the sun and the mirrors.

The system was composed of a frame that held 100 1 square foot bathroom mirror
tiles. These were arranged in 10 rows of 10. Each mirror had a small mount 
composed of a metal disk at the end of a metal stalk. This stalk was welded to 
the frame. Each mirror was glued to the disk. 

The receiver was an 8 gallon aluminium beer keg that was used as the steam
boiler. This keg was mounted about 12 feet in front and normal to the plane 
of the mirrors. 

The whole frame was mounted on a polar axis mount with declination adjustment.
This allowed the whole system to track the sun using simple clockwork controls.

Once the system is tracking the sun then each mirror stalk can be bent to adjust
each mirror so it reflects light onto the receiver. With the 100 square foot of
mirrors reflecting on the boiler a concentration factor of about 30 to 1 is 
obtained.

Mirror tiles are very cheap (Less than one dollar each).

> Thanks
> Colin Morton. Anvil Iron   anvil@iap.net.au

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From Rainbow_Lodge@super.zippo.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:14 EDT 1996
Article: 31763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!zdc!szdc!news
From: Rainbow_Lodge@super.zippo.com (George Walters)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: newsgroup for pictures of your crafts
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 04:02:17 GMT
Organization: Zippo
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Greeting all crafters,


There has been quite a bit of interest shown in having a newsgroup
where pictures of crafts can be posted, so I have begun the process
through my ISP to establish the newsgroup. The newsgroup will be
called alt.binaries.pictures.crafts, and will be moderated. Since this
is in the alt. newsgroup area, it does not have to go through the
voting process required in other newsgroup proposals. I will act as
moderator, unless someone feels more qualified, but I would like a
co-moderator. My ISP is going to establish a mail address for 
the moderators.

Right now I am only setting this area up as a single newsgroup. This
means that ALL types of crafts will be displayed in the same area. If
postings warrant it later, it can be broken up into smaller
sub-groups. ALL pictures of crafts, supplies etc. will be welcome for
sale, for display, for example, for virtually anything related to
crafts. Once there is a co-moderator, we can work on a FAQ for the
group. I see my job as moderator to eliminate get quick money mail,
and XXX stuff. If there is something showing up in the group that
seems to be bothering alot of people, then that will be eliminated
also.

Thanks to everyone who expressed an interest, and gave me insights and
suggestions.

George Walters
Rainbow Lodge



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:20:15 EDT 1996
Article: 31764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lorch Metal Lathe
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:15:47 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <31f25da9.20905627@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of jpwieser@ripco.com (J.P. Wieser) having written:

>     I would love to visit England someday and ship back a small 
>freight container of tools and books. ;-) 

You're welcome to any medieaval reliquaries we're auctioning off, but
don't you dare go anywhere Bristol Designs, That's _my_ bronze infill
plane on the back shelf, and as soon as I have the spare cash I'm
having it    8-)

Actually, I think Bristol Designs did have a Lorch for sale a while
ago, for something like 800 ($1200). I know nothing of watchmaking,
but these are supposed to be the best of the watchmaker's lathes and
are much sought after.



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:20:16 EDT 1996
Article: 31765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Turning kit:  Was:  quorn apology
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:15:48 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 11
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The moving finger of Paul Schiller <panache@li.net> having written:

>attatch a hand wheel and dial to the lathe lead screw. 
>Sounds like a nice thing to have anyway.  

These are a popular option on Myford 7s. If you have one, I'd make the
"handle" on the handwheel removable, or remove it permanently. We're
not all the neatest of workers and this rotating hook on the end of
your leadscrew is just a little too likely to catch on things for my
taste.



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:20:17 EDT 1996
Article: 31766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Turning kit:  Was:  quorn apology
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:15:50 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 18
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The moving finger of ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) having
written:

>Why make ball handles at all

The Quorn is popular in the UK as a model engineering competition
entry and demonstration of one's skill in making ball handles. Of all
the Quorns that you see, I've rarely seen one that looked as if it was
ever used.

If you want a cheap toolpost grinder, get the workshop space for a
surplus industrial one. If you want to make a small one, build a Quorn
with Allens. If you want to grace the pages of ME, spend your life
turning ball handles.


(and don't get me onto those bloody steam trains....)



From redrok@pclink.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:18 EDT 1996
Article: 31767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Stirling VS Piston Steam?, etc.
Message-ID: <31F2AD95.273B@pclink.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 15:22:13 -0700
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31767 sci.energy:52676 sci.energy.hydrogen:4487

Duane C. Johnson wrote:
> Roamer wrote:
> > Why not use a Stirling "fluidine" pump to drive a small generator. These
> > will work on temperature differences of less than 170 degrees.
> >
> Robin Hodgson wrote to me and mentioned that the spelling is "fluidyne".
> This is one of the liquid piston Stirling engines.

Another article on fluidyne engines is in:

Fluidyne engine,
Scientific American, 1985 Apr, pg 140

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:20:19 EDT 1996
Article: 31768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flattening sheet after it was rolled?
Date: 21 Jul 1996 11:10:26 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--Coincidence! I just flattened 4 rolls of .010in. shim steel, 
using a 3-roll type of bending roll. I used the one made from plans run 
in M.E. maybe a decade ago. Sorry, don't know the exact date, but it's a 
good unit to build, not too difficult and very effective at doing its 
thing...
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Everyone has a talent; 	
	COMING SOON		:	Mine is elusive...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca Sat Aug  3 11:20:20 EDT 1996
Article: 31769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!news.mindlink.net!news
From: chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BRAZING BRASS???
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 09:13:33 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
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Faith Padgett <102741.2426@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>Chris (chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca) wrote:
>I have a cast brass part that broke in half. I want to re-join
>the pieces. Can i Braze it with standard brass brazing rod? 

>Phosphor Bronze will work fine but if you are going to polish
>the brass out and are looking for a good color match; try
>UTP 7M.  It is a 21% silver solder designed for perfect color
>match on brass. The bonding temperature is between 1435 & 1490 F.
>Tensile strength up to 60,000 PSI.  (Cadmium Free).

>Clean the joint area and preheat large pieces broadly.  Flame
>adjustment: neutral.  When base material becomes dark red and
>fluxes become liquid, melt small drop off rod and flow out.

>David Padgett
>UTP Welding Materials
>1-800-527-0791
>102741.2426@compuserve.com

>-- 
>Faith Padgett

Thanks I will see if i can find some.

Chris




From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:22 EDT 1996
Article: 31770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Leadscrews and slides...
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 14:29:20 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 6
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References: <4rrdiq$26ig@ausnews.austin.ibm.com> <4s3l7j$4aq@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <4s6leu$ap5@acme.sb.west.net> <31EA9D2C.6061@scruznet.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960715130736.8855C-100000@acme.sb.west.net> <31EC2BD6.2190@scruznet.com> <4smmio$1nd@news1.svc>
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To: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>

Alright already. I give up! You don't have to hammer it into the ground!
My experience is one persons opinion and as such represents my interface 
with OSH. I don't disagree that it has deteriorated, but what hasn't in 
the last 20 years, (my body included).

Lee Marshall


From marty@trucom.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:23 EDT 1996
Article: 31771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: marty@trucom.com (Marty Albert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ Source
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:21:26 GMT
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Hello:

Where can I download the FAQ for this group?

I have several questions that I'm sure are there, but I can't find the
bloody thing!

Thanks!


Marty Albert - marty@trucom.com
Amateur Radio: KC6UFM@KC6UFM.#SEMO.MO.USA.NOAM

Heartland Internet Services

*****************************************************
Should you pay your employer?? NO WAY!!
http://www.adgrafix.com/info/calbertjr/sales.html
*****************************************************



From hotarn@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:24 EDT 1996
Article: 31772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Date: 21 Jul 1996 19:18:44 -0400
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>Subject:	Large anvils
>From:	bkelly@bright.net
>Date:	Wed, 17 Jul 1996 04:32:14 GMT

>Hi All,

>I see posts concerning blacksmithing here, so this should be appropriate.
> Hi All,
> I see posts concerning blacksmithing here, so this should be
appropriate.
> Any Idea of how much a large ( 350 pound to 500 pound ) blacksmiths
anvil should
> be worth?  And where to get one?
> My 135 pounder is too small for some of my projects, but it sure has
made itself
> worthwhile for lots of things.
> Please email me if you have the answers. ( post publically too, for
everyone to
> learn , but my newsfeed sucks  so I may not see it.).
> Thanks.
> byron

  At the July meeting of Southern Ohio forge & Anvil, Emmert Studebaker (
of the Sudebaker car family.) announced that he may soon be selling some
of the anvils from the Studebaker homestead near Tipp City, Oh.
  If interested E-Mail me and I will try to get more info for you.
 
p.s. Where are you? 

hotarn@aol.com                              DGB
Keep the anvils ringing.


From hotarn@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:25 EDT 1996
Article: 31773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: S.O.F.A.
Date: 21 Jul 1996 20:04:32 -0400
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Subj:	Re: S.O.F.A.
Hello,
            I am a member of a Blacksmithing Club called Southern Ohio
Forge & Anvil. Our meetings take place at the Miami County Fair Grounds in
Troy, Oh on the first Saturday of each month at 10:30 am til ???. (Most
times, but once in a while no one gets there until closer to noon.)
           We have a rather nice shop with multiple  (5 I think.) coal
forges and lots of advice. (if you want it or not. =o} )
           If you are interested  stop by and check us out.
Keep the anvils ringing.
Dan Bridenbaugh
|


hotarn@aol.com                              DGB
Keep the anvils ringing.


From nbciphi@istar.ca Sat Aug  3 11:20:26 EDT 1996
Article: 31774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!BellSouth!csulb.edu!info.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!news1.istar.ca!news
From: "C.I.P.H.I. - N.B. Branch" <nbciphi@istar.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to colour copper?
Date: 22 Jul 1996 01:02:12 GMT
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Hello.

As a hobby, I carve wooden hiking staffs. I put a 3/4 inch diameter
copper cap on the end of the stick, to keep the wood from wearing away 
and flaring out when it gets pounded down after repeated use.

Since I use birch and maple, the sticks tend to be very light coloured,
and the cooper doesn't always look good on them. Is there a way I can
put that green patina colour on them, without too much expense and
trouble (preferably an easy recipe with common household compounds)?

Ideally, I would like to find a souce of brass caps for the ends (3/4
inch diameter, 1/2 to 1 inch long). If anybody knows of a source, please 
let me know.

Mike LeBlanc, BSc, CPHI(c)    Visit the Health inspector's Homepage:
Public Health Inspector       http://members.tripod.com/~ae858/index.html
Moncton, NB
Canada, eh!



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:27 EDT 1996
Article: 31775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Turning kit:  Was:  quorn apology
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 21:29:17 LOCAL
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In article <31f25ffe.21502125@news.demon.co.uk> dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) writes:
>From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
>Subject: Re: Ball Turning kit:  Was:  quorn apology
>Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:15:50 GMT

>The moving finger of ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) having
>written:

>>Why make ball handles at all

>The Quorn is popular in the UK as a model engineering competition
>entry and demonstration of one's skill in making ball handles. Of all
>the Quorns that you see, I've rarely seen one that looked as if it was
>ever used.

>If you want a cheap toolpost grinder, get the workshop space for a
>surplus industrial one. If you want to make a small one, build a Quorn
>with Allens. If you want to grace the pages of ME, spend your life
>turning ball handles.


WOW- and I thought Id get in trouble for such heresey, and here we have an 
actual UK person suggesting you could make a useable tool without ball handles.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From jkovar@sojourn.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:28 EDT 1996
Article: 31776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news.sojourn.com!usenet
From: Jim Kovar <jkovar@sojourn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Books, Advice Please
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:24:28 -0700
Organization: Sojourn Systems Ltd.
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larry prince wrote:
> 
> I have a lathe/mill/drill machine (Smithy CB1220XL), just a smattering
> of experience/knowledge and a desire to know more.
> 
>     Have you tried making any of the small  projects out of the Smithy catalogs?  Simple, yet fun.
                             Jim


From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:20:29 EDT 1996
Article: 31777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Test Sheet
Date: 22 Jul 1996 01:11:58 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
Lines: 25
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In article <31EFDCCB.374C@gw.twc.com>, kolesnik <kolesnik.vyvx1@gw.twc.com> writes:
>On page 26 of the Jan/Feb 1984 Home Shop Machinist there's a reduced
>copy of a test sheet used by The Sheldon Machine Company to report the
>tested accuracy of their lathes in at least 17 areas.  From what I can
[...]
>them.  Or if anyone else has something similar or better please let me
>know, I'd be glad to pay for copying and postage and compare results and
>if they are valid.

You might try to get from a library a copy of "Testing Machine Tools"
by Georg Schlesinger. It shows lots of charts and diagrams of tests
to be made on various types of machine tools and gives recommended
tolerances. I think the 8th edition (1978) is the most recent (and
is still available).

There are also some ANSI (I think) standards such as one on "Testing
Tool Room Lathes" or some such, which you might find in a library. I
can find the number of one or more of these if you're interested
(although it may take me awhile to dig down that deep on my desk).


                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From curator@webserve.net Sat Aug  3 11:20:31 EDT 1996
Article: 31778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news2.epix.net!news
From: curator@webserve.net (James Owen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper Patina Recipies
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 01:51:02 GMT
Organization: epix.net
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Patina for Copper
=============
ratios by parts refer to weight .
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Green:
Sodium chloride			37  parts
Ammonia water			75 parts
Ammonium chloride		37 parts
strong wine vinegar		5000 parts

Mix and dissolve. apply to object to be treated with camel hair pencil
repeat until the desired shade is reached.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yellow green:

Oxalic acid			5 parts
Ammonium chloride		10 parts
Acetic acid 30% solution		500 parts

---------	or  --------	

Potassium oxalate, acid		4 parts
Ammonium chloride		16-17 parts
vinegar containing 6 % acetic acid	1000 parts

use these as the first formula
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bluish green:

use the green formula ( the first one) then use:

Ammonium chloride 		40 parts
Ammonium carbonate		120 parts
water				1000 parts

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greenish Brown:

Potassium sulpheret		5 parts
water 				1000 parts

Mix and dissolve. With this coat object to be treated, let dry, then
cover
 with 10 parts a mixture of a saturated solution of ammonia water and
acetic acid
and 5 parts of ammonium chloride thinned with 1000 parts of water.
Let dry again then brush off well. repeat if necessary.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another blue green:

corrosive sublimate		25 parts
potassium nitrate 			86 parts 
borax				56 parts
zinc oxide			113 parts
copper acetate			220-225 parts

mix and heat together on the surface of the object to be treated.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Brown:

Potassium oxalate, acid		3 parts
Ammonium Chloride		15 parts
water, distilled			280 parts

Mix and dissolve, apply and let dry. repeat (this is a slow process
but makes an elegent finish)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another green:

Take tartaric acid, dilute half and half with boiling water, coat
object and allow to dry. the next day rub
the applied layer off with oakum, (The coating must be done in DRY
weather to work)
Take hydrochloric acid and dilute it half and half with boiling water
(pour acid into water not vice versa! as it is dangerous) In this
dissolve as much zinc as you can. Allow to settle. Then dilute in half
again with boiling water. Coat the copper with this a few times.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Black:

Coat with tallow , light with a torch, wipe reliefs and let dry.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Blue-Black:

Use a dilute solution of chloride of antimony in water and add a
little free hydrochloric acid.
apply with a soft brush and allow to dry- then rub with a flannel.

--- or ---

Use a solution of chloride of palladium after cleaning the dirt and
grease off with a hot solution of carbonate of soda

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Red:

Heat to red-hot,(this makes the copper become cupric oxide on the
surface and cuprous oxide underneath.) after cooling remove the black
cupric oxide with a polishing plate to leave the red cuprous oxide.

You can create a marbled surface by sprinkling borax or some  other
chemical having a similar action on the metal during the heating of
the metal. this prevents oxidation and retains the original metallic
color. you can then use another coloring process.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
James Owen <curator@webserve.net>








From gpenzen@skypoint.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:32 EDT 1996
Article: 31779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!decwrl!pagesat.net!skypoint.com!š™™>
From: gpenzen@skypoint.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Forming smooth curves with 1/8" round iron
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 96 22:10:58
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Greeting!

Hay, did you know that if your not carefull with a brazing torch you can burn stuff
up really fast?  =:-o

Its been a real treat playing with metal smithing so far.

What I would like to do is some ornamental work with small round iron stock.  Curly
stuff, heart shaped stuff, etc.

The trouble that I'm having is that when I try to make two of the same shape I can't.

I have been using a oak form with a pine base to shape the pieces, bending them by hand around
the form.  But the results are not very consistent.

I've seen the guy at the muffler shop using a machine to bend pipe and I have a small one that
I use for plumbing.  I was wondering if anyone make one small enough to do what I want or if
anyone had a better idea on how to do this.

Got to run, I think I left the torch on again.  =%-}

Cheers
George


From tonyspg@voicenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:33 EDT 1996
Article: 31780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tonyspg@voicenet.com (Tony Jucewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaft Wear Problem
Date: 22 Jul 1996 05:54:22 GMT
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Neil Poersch (npoersch@mts.mb.ca) wrote:
: I have a problem with excessive shaft wear inside the inner race of a
: bearing. The bearing inner race is carving a deep channel into the shaft. 
: The shaft is initially a light press fit into the inner race.  However it
: is, after some use, obviously turning inside the race and eventually
: chewing up the shaft.  I am hoping that someone on this newsgroup can
: suggest a solution.

  Can you find a bearing which has set-screws on the inter-race. They
come in many sizes. We use them on many machines, but not at that speed.




: HereÕs the background facts:  
: This past winter I adapted an automotive alternator to my Moto Guzzi
: motorcycle. 
: The alternator sits on top of and behind the engine. I extend the
: alternator
: shaft to the front of the engine to a pulley and v-belt drive which runs
: off the
: crankshaft. 

: Configuration Details:
: The alternator rotor shaft ( which is threaded) is screwed into a 3Ó long
: threaded sleeve. 
: The other end of the threaded sleeve accepts a threaded end of a shaft.
: The shafts and sleeve are screwed together until their shoulders are tight
: against each other.
: This shaft is 15mm diam. by about 12Ó long. The shaft extends to the front
: of the engine where it is supported by a bearing. 
: (This is where the shaft-chewing problem is.)
: The shaft projects through the bearing about 2Ó where a 2.5Ó v-belt pulley
: is mounted.
: This pulley is driven by an ÔAÕ- section belt which in turn is driven by an
: adjustable pitch  5Ó pulley which runs on the crankshaft. This pulley is
: adjusted to produce about 1/2Ó free play midway in the belt. The
: center-to-center distance of the pulleys is about 15Ó.
: The shaft & alternator typically turn at 8000 rpm.

: I assume that there is some flexing somewhere in this set-up which causes
: the shaft to move inside the inner race and eventually allow the inner race
: to carve the channel in the shaft.

: My questions:

: 1.Is the concept of a threaded sleeve/threaded shaft coupling rigid enough?

: 2. I made the shaft from 12L14. Is this too soft and perhaps allowing the
: v-belt drive to slightly bend the shaft in front of the bearing initiating
: the
: wear problem? If so, should I use 1045 or even 4340?

: 3. At 8000 rpm balance may be critical. I made no special attempts to
: balance the components. Even if I did, the best that I could do would be a
: static balance. Any comments?

: 4. Is an ÔAÕ-section v-belt drive the wrong type for this rpm range?
: Should I use a lighter 4L type or a flat automotive type or even a toothed
: type
: of belt?

: 5. The support bearing that I originally used was a 3202-2RS double row
: ball
: bearing to provide extreme rigidity.  This carved up the shaft very quickly
: due to some slight mis-alignment.  I switched to a 2202-2RS self-aligning
: double 
: row ball bearing to compensate for the mis-alignment but still experienced
: the shaft wear problem. Comments?

: 6. Can anyone recommend any reading material on designing shafts, drives
: etc.
: relating to practical applications? MachineryÕs Handbook and bearing
: catalogues
: donÕt seem to cover this.

: If you have read this far you have lots of patience.  I would appreciate
: hearing
: from you if you have any suggestions for me.
: Thanks,

: Neil

--
Tony Jucewicz   tonyspg@voicenet.com         Stone is forever ########
http://www.voicenet.com/~tonyspg             And EVER ################
BBS (610)346-9047    Stonework "HOW-TO"      And YES, EVER ###########


From jlovallo@mixcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:34 EDT 1996
Article: 31781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 22 Jul 1996 14:44:53 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
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Well, it finally has happened!  Thanks to all the people that responded to my questions, I am 
finallly casting aluminum.  I bought a #4 furnace setup from Pyramid (in the FAQ) . That took
care of the crucible,tongs,propane regulator etc.  A trip to a local foundry took care of aluminum
stock, I bought 100# of their gates and sprues at slightly less than the price for virgin ingots.
I knew that I wanted to use Petrobond sand for casting.  Bought some Petrobond II and found that
it was just the bonding agent; sand and "petrobond" oil was required.  Being impatient, I mixed up 
some green sand using playbox sand from the local hardware store and made some castings.  
They turned out great!  

Am now getting the right stuff for Petrobond.  Despite what I have seen in this newsgroup, very fine
silica sand is still available from the local sandblasting suppliers ( 120-400 grit).  The petrobond oil
was a major pain in the ....  They will only sell it in 5 gallon pails (2 pints will do 100# of sand).  After 
much checking, I found an equivalent oil available thru Grainger Supply, a Mobil product (circulating
oil, ISO grade 100) available in quart and gallon containers.  Hint, this oil is also recommended as an
air compressor oil.

I have just purchased a small sand muller to blend Petrobond.  Should be here this week.  If anyone in the
WI area wants some petrobond sand, I should be able to help you.

Many thanks to Winston Harness (brnzcaster) for his web page that led me to the muller!

John Lovallo



From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:20:35 EDT 1996
Article: 31782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!NewsWatcher!user
From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Reeves WWW site
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:24:50 +0100
Organization: BTL
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I've just tripped over Reeves www site at:
    http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/reeves/mindex.htm

Reeves stock a very large range of model engineering components.

 
- Nigel 
(no connection with Reeves, except as a customer)

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From d.kiefer@lerc.nasa.gov Sat Aug  3 11:20:36 EDT 1996
Article: 31783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!nntp.primenet.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!news
From: d.kiefer@lerc.nasa.gov (d. Kiefer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmith shop needed in Cleveland, Ohio area
Date: 22 Jul 1996 15:24:22 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
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I need to locate a blacksmith in the Cleveland area 
that would allow me to work in his/her facility one to 
two weekends a month.  I have some experience and 
would need very little help (if any).  I work as a 
professional engineer and would like to fulfill some 
dreams without going broke building a blacksmith shop. 
 Thank you in advance!!

Dwayne 


I can be reached at 216-977-0052



From spett@jpmorgan.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:37 EDT 1996
Article: 31784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: spett@jpmorgan.com (Scott Pett CSG)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: quorn: apology
Date: 22 Jul 1996 08:26:27 GMT
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> Isn't it about this time some mentions he made one with a hacksaw and a
> mill file?

I made a 3/4" pipe bending tool out of a slab of aluminium, using a half
round file.

What's worse - I did it at 2am one Sunday morning to finish off the plumbing
to the new hot water tank I'd installed (almost).

Does this count? :-)

Regards,
Scott.



From croise@odyssee.net Sat Aug  3 11:20:38 EDT 1996
Article: 31785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-14.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news2.insinc.net!pegasus.odyssee.net!news
From: croise@odyssee.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: electrical etching
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:24:26 -0700
Organization: Odyssee Internet
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HI, does anyone know a website where i could find an electrical etching 
device (for use on steel)? Commercial site or personnal site.
Thanks		Jean


From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:39 EDT 1996
Article: 31786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman scroll saw
Date: 22 Jul 1996 05:07:24 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <31f24cf9.531509@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(bikerbil) writes:

> $75.oo for the 24 inch model.
>                     $32.oo for the 18 inch.
>                 

You are correct I read the wrong one.   $75 was a bundle back then.   A 49
chevy was only $2100


From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:20:41 EDT 1996
Article: 31787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flattening sheet after it was rolled?
Date: 22 Jul 1996 09:35:13 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Annealing might do the job.
Commercially available rolled sheet 'on the roll' is usually not annealed.
Brass, silver and gold alloys can simply be annealed by heating them until
cherry red and then quenching into water.

Klaas



From rjl6n@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu Sat Aug  3 11:20:42 EDT 1996
Article: 31788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu>
Subject: Re: Microtome Sharpener?
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Mark Fraser wrote:
> 
> I picked up a "Servall" Parker-Blum Microtome today, simply because
> I couldn't pass it up for $20.00, and it looks like it can be made
> into something useful.  

Actually, it should be "Sorvall" and "Porter/Blum".  I spent
several years with a couple of these and later got to know
Dr. Keith Porter, an amazing electron microscopist.

> Anyone know what on earth the original purpose was?

Others have anwered this corectly, although the Porter/Blum
microtome was primarily used for electron microscopy and,
as such, it used either broken glass knifes or diamond
knifes, not the honed steel knifes used in other microtomes.

-- 
John Lye

rjl6n@uva.pcmail.Virginia.EDU


From janders@oro.net Sat Aug  3 11:20:43 EDT 1996
Article: 31789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Morgan injection molding press wanted
Date: 22 Jul 1996 13:39:15 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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I've got a friend looking for a Morgan bench top injection molding press.
Must be in good condition, no rebuildable cores please.

Contact Jim Baker @ 415-494-7343 if you have one on the west coast
for sale, preferably in the SF bay area in California.

 Jon Anderson
 Prototype & Design
 Grass Valley, CA


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:44 EDT 1996
Article: 31790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FAQ Source
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:31:48 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <31F3ACF3.4AB7@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4suai9$alo@thepit.trucom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Jul 22 12:01:06 PM CDT 1996
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To: Marty Albert <marty@trucom.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------3465DB12F0E
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Marty Albert wrote:
> 
> Hello:
> 
> Where can I download the FAQ for this group?
> 
> I have several questions that I'm sure are there, but I can't find the
> bloody thing!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Marty Albert - marty@trucom.com
> Amateur Radio: KC6UFM@KC6UFM.#SEMO.MO.USA.NOAM
> 
> Heartland Internet Services
> 
> *****************************************************
> Should you pay your employer?? NO WAY!!
> http://www.adgrafix.com/info/calbertjr/sales.html
> *****************************************************

--------------3465DB12F0E
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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
--------------3465DB12F0E--





From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:20:45 EDT 1996
Article: 31791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!knoware.nl!usenet
From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 22 Jul 1996 14:10:51 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and another
rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") diameter
and put some iron into it.
After starting the arc at 80 amps the irom melted within seconds.
But the chamotte too. I did the same (with or without iron) with a piece
of ordinary concrete, 1650 C rated refractory concrete, pumice or a Hessian
crucible. All of them melted easily close to the arc within seconds.
Using a cuttlefish bone (virtually pure CaCO3) which would result in
decomposing
to CaO which is 'unmeltable' resulted in vaporizing the CaO (bp 3000 C) and
glassy traces of melting (mp 2700 C). Not an option either. I might try
marble which I don't have at the moment which is more 'solid' CaCO3.
Graphite itself cannot be used as some metals dissolve the carbon.
Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
melt of vaporize too quickly ?

Klaas



From ken.harvey@dsto.defence.gov.au Sat Aug  3 11:20:46 EDT 1996
Article: 31792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!foxhound.dsto.gov.au!fang.dsto.defence.gov.au!usenet
From: Ken Harvey <ken.harvey@dsto.defence.gov.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Taiwanese lathes - Improvements?
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:56:11 +1030
Organization: Defence Science and Technology Organisation
Lines: 5
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I have a Taiwanese lathe, Lantaine 350B, 10"x24". Can anyone suggest 
some improvements I can make to it that are really worthwhile? How about 
replacing the headstock bearings? Is that likely to worth it? Any 
suggestions please.
Ken Harvey


From treasure@televar.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:48 EDT 1996
Article: 31793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!in-news.erinet.com!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!golden.ncw.net!bartlett.ncw.net!wallauser008
From: treasure@televar.com (Kemp LaMunyon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cd roms
Date: 21 Jul 1996 17:32:22 GMT
Organization: North Central Washington Network
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Message-ID: <4stpj6$n44@bartlett.ncw.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wallauser008.ncw.net
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I just wanted to let this group know that we are dupping a 
discoed government 
cd rom disk for rockhounds. It has thousands of locations to 
minerals and 
gems. We will distribute this cd for what it costs us to make + 
ship handle 
and the other costs that may be involved. should be able to get 
it out to the 
end users for about 10-11 bucks a disk. If interested go to 
http://www.televar.com/~treasure and look in the informative 
text files.


From danw@panix.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:49 EDT 1996
Article: 31794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!not-for-mail
From: danw@panix.com (Dan Wold)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Etching steel?
Date: 22 Jul 1996 13:57:05 -0400
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and UNIX, NYC
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We're interested in finding out about techniques for etching steel plate.

I've heard about a "soft" resist that will take an impression and lift off.

What etching agents are available? What surface prep is reccomended?

Thanks for any info!

-Dan
-- 
Daniel Wold   239 City Island Ave,Bronx,NY,10464  email: danw@panix.com
Metal Design & Fabrication
Project Engineer: Gaia Institute - Turning wastes into resources
"The earth is but one country, and mankind its citizens." -- Baha'u'llah


From ballen@dirac.phys.uwm.edu Sat Aug  3 11:20:50 EDT 1996
Article: 31795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!usenet
From: Bruce Allen <ballen@dirac.phys.uwm.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman scroll saw
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 13:22:14 -0500
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <31F3C6D6.2781E494@dirac.phys.uwm.edu>
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David M. MacMillan wrote:
> 
> A beautiful old (1940s or 50s vintage) Craftsman scroll saw just
> jumped out at me today and said "buy me."  So I did.
> It's got as much cast iron in it as my Burke horizontal mill,
> and the blade moves straight up and down on sliders (vs the now
> more common "parallelogram" rocking arm motion).
> 
> What I need now is a manual for it, so that I know how to correctly
> lubricate the beast.  The "crank box" and lower slider are
> definitely oiled (vs greased), and it *looks* as if the upper
> slider is oiled as well.  But I don't know what type of oil to
> use.  And I could be wrong; the upper slider could be greased.
 

Hi David,

The saw you have was made by Emerson Electric.  I've got the
same one (but in the 18-inch version, 103-0407). You can still get
the owners manual for it if you call Emerson's Service Center,
though they don't have parts anymore (neither does Sears).

In addition to the normal scroll saw blades, a handy blade to use
is obtained by cutting off 5-inch bits of fine-toothed 1/4 inch
bandsaw blades.  They are very robust compared to normal scroll
saw blades.

Bruce Allen


From jasclb@tdl.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:51 EDT 1996
Article: 31796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.tdl.com!laminar.tdl.com!swensen
From: jasclb@tdl.com (John Swensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microtome Sharpener?
Date: 22 Jul 1996 15:06:15 GMT
Organization: The Diamond Lane
Lines: 18
Sender: swensen@laminar.tdl.com (John Swensen)
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NNTP-Posting-Host: tdl-st165.tdl.com

In article <DuvrDw.E7L@rci.ripco.com>, jpwieser@ripco.com (J.P. Wieser) writes:
|> . . . The knives 
|> used in microtomes were sharpened on very fine honing stones; 
|> there may have been machines for this purpose, but this does not 
|> sound like what you have.                                                           

I saw an actual microtome knife sharpener in operation many years ago. The blade
was pushed around in figure-8 pattern over an oil-lubricated, fine 
(black Arkansas, I would guess) stone about 12" square. Periodically the blade
holder picked up and flipped the blade over to hone the other side.

I often wish I had such a thing to adapt to sharpen my woodworking tools; kind of
like having an apprentice to sharpen your tools while you do other work.

-- 

John Swensen
email to: jasclb@tdl.com


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:52 EDT 1996
Article: 31797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
Subject: Re: Stirling VS Piston Steam?, etc.
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
Date: 22 Jul 1996 18:20:10 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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References: <4s1egf$le5@news.chatlink.com> <4s41ec$gk@condor.ic.net> <4s6m9s$dbd@acme.sb.west.net> <4sbf99$imu@nnrp1.news.primenet.com> <4slsl0$19a@news.global2000.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31797 sci.energy:52709 sci.energy.hydrogen:4492

Re: the Fluidyne pump.  Invented by Colin West, it was intended for 
irrigation and drinking water pump.  Because it works on a resonance 
principle, you'd have some difficulty getting variable output from
it, but I suppose you could divert unneeded water.

For small system power, West described a rather neat TMG-  a free-piston
Thermal Magnetic Generator that's yet another variant on the
Stirling.  The free-piston (the displacer and piston aren't mechanically
coupled, but are set up to oscillate) is connected to a linear alternator.
According to West, the TMG was developed for remote radio instalations.
Depending on the power required, it could be scaled up somewhat, but
I think it was designed to put out 20kW.

West _Principles and Applications of Stirling Engines_  , VNR 1980.
He also wrote a book on the Fluidyne, called something like the
Liquid Piston Stirling Engines.  I don't have a better reference to it.

Pete Brooks



From jrro@watson.ibm.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:53 EDT 1996
Article: 31798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!uunet!inXS.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver bearing solder
Date: 22 Jul 1996 15:30:59 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <4t06rj$kpo@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <Duu4Bw.K82@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2

In <Duu4Bw.K82@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>, ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:
>
>Yep, that's right, Silver Bearing Solder.  It's the correct name of the 
>stuff, but the package often reads " Silver Solder ".  Kester puts out some,
>my last bubble pack reads: Product #82-5000-0005    silver 4%, tin 96%.
>Johson Mathey & Mallory advertise two grades:
>                         Mattisol " B "  5% silver/tin
>                         Mattisol 430    3.5% silver/tin
>          Available in 1/16 and 1/8 diameter wire on one pound 
>plastic spools.
>
>Silver bearing solder in bubble packs is also sold in hobby 
>shops.             
>
>In Canada, you can buy this in any harware store, at least in bubble 
>packs.  Refrigeration jobbers carry the spools, as well as welding supply
>shops.  In fact these solders were developed for the refrigeration trade.
>-- 
>Steve.
>
>**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************



Another supplier, same composition:  Eutectic Castolin Corp., 
Eutectic 157 solder.  It has a much higher yeild strength than
ordinary lead-tin solder.



===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From QDYA47A@prodigy.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:54 EDT 1996
Article: 31799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: QDYA47A@prodigy.com (James Cleveland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: stainless steel wire
Date: 22 Jul 1996 15:41:03 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 6
Distribution: world
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X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

A while back someone asked for a source of stainless steel wire. 
there is a company called  Wire Mart Int'l   31 Mulvaney Street  P.O. Box 
5959   Asheville, N.C. 28813     (800) 829 - 8936  they will sell any 
quantity .
 small quantities  very expensive  abt. $50.00 $.



From powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu Sat Aug  3 11:20:55 EDT 1996
Article: 31800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!bounce-bounce
From: powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: S.O.F.A.
Date: 22 Jul 1996 12:11:36 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Lines: 30
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NNTP-Posting-Host: skink.cis.ohio-state.edu

Dan wrote
>            I am a member of a Blacksmithing Club called Southern Ohio
>Forge & Anvil. Our meetings take place at the Miami County Fair Grounds in
>Troy, Oh on the first Saturday of each month at 10:30 am til ???. (Most
>times, but once in a while no one gets there until closer to noon.)

Let me add a bit here; the SOFA meeting proper starts at 1pm with the
raffle and demonstration, and is usually over around 3pm.
(on "holiday weekends" the meeting is bumped back a week and in October
we're having a fiels trip instead of a meeting to allow the forges to cool
off a bit after Quad-State)

SOFA has "open forging" in the mornings before meeting and supplies
forges, tools, and coal.  Bring your own metal please.  Use of the 
triphammers is extremely restricted--check with one of the officers
of the club for details.

>           We have a rather nice shop with multiple  (5 I think.) coal
>forges and lots of advice. (if you want it or not. =o} )
>           If you are interested  stop by and check us out.
>Keep the anvils ringing.
>Dan Bridenbaugh
>hotarn@aol.com                              DGB
>Keep the anvils ringing.

Thomas Powers


NOTE:  The Quad-State flyers will be coming out soon and I will
post the details as soon as I get mine!


From dzr10@eng.amdahl.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:56 EDT 1996
Article: 31801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!amdahl.com!ogma.ccc.amdahl.com!netnews
From: Dave Ruigh <dzr10@eng.amdahl.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Screws for Bridgeport type mill
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
To: Tim Briggs <tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net>
Message-ID: <31F3D34A.63DE@eng.amdahl.com>
Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (Usenet Administration)
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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 19:15:22 GMT
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01S (X11; I; IRIX 5.3 IP20)
Lines: 31

Tim Briggs wrote:
> 
> I am looking for some ball screw retrofits for a Bridgeport type milling
> machine.  I saw some in a catalog once but can't remember where.  Any
> information would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net
> tbriggs@msmail.rey.delcoelect.com

Here is one source I've found. I got a quote of $950 for both axes,
including the mounting yoke. The screws are ground thread, .0005"/ft
lead accuracy.  The mfgr is Taiwanese, the US contact is:

Hiwin Technologies Corp.
4344 Regency Dr.
Glenview Industrial Center
Glenview, Ill 60026
708 827 2270
fax 708 827 2291

(Note: I got the quote from a local rebuilder here in San Jose,
HSS, who is a rep for Hiwin, I don't know if the direct price 
is the same.)

There are also Japanese screws available, THK, NSK, though
ground screws are probably more like $1500-$2000 from these
companies.

Dave


From anvil@iap.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:20:57 EDT 1996
Article: 31802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!sgigate.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.mel.connect.com.au!news.per.connect.com.au!news.iap.net.au!usenet
From: Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Forged Rivet Enq
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 00:58:04 +1000
Organization: IAP Direct
Lines: 15
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Rivet Head Enquiry
I have been fabricating some specialised rivets lately.  I decided that to get a 
professional finish that I would make hand held rivet sets by  placing a 
commercial rivet (Roundhead-16mm or 5/8" shank, and 12mm or 1/2" 
shank)into the hardy hole. Heating up a large bar and driving it onto the 
rivet, to make the rivet set.
This worked well, but on using the rivet set on the same size shanks the 
results where disappointing to say the least . On the 16mm-5/8" shank I had 
12mm-1/2"  protruding to be riveted over.
Does any one have any, tips, advice or formulae on the ratio of shank size v 
amount of projection to be riveted, and head size. Also am I asking to much to 
expect to use a hand rivet set on a16 mm shank rivet or do I need the force of 
a machine?
Thanks
ColinMorton   anvil@iap.net.au


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:20:59 EDT 1996
Article: 31803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 22 Jul 1996 13:05:00 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 16
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <4t0455$o64@homer.alpha.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

In article <4t0455$o64@homer.alpha.net>, jlovallo@mixcom.com writes:

> The petrobond oil was a major pain in the .... 

Congratulations John on your first pours.
You can use 30W NON-detergent motor oil for the bond oil in PetroBond and
Aridry casting sands.
It's been a few years since I used any PetroBond, so I've lost track of
the Part No. If anyone is using Aridry (Borden) sand, specifiy J-82MX for
the pre-blended mix (just J-82 is the binder).
Winston
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:00 EDT 1996
Article: 31804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to colour copper?
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:38:34 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31F3AE8A.70BF@ix.netcom.com>
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To: "C.I.P.H.I. - N.B. Branch" <nbciphi@istar.ca>

C.I.P.H.I. - N.B. Branch wrote:
> 
> Hello.
> 
> As a hobby, I carve wooden hiking staffs. I put a 3/4 inch diameter
> copper cap on the end of the stick, to keep the wood from wearing away
> and flaring out when it gets pounded down after repeated use.
> 
> Since I use birch and maple, the sticks tend to be very light coloured,
> and the cooper doesn't always look good on them. Is there a way I can
> put that green patina colour on them, without too much expense and
> trouble (preferably an easy recipe with common household compounds)?

There was a post the other night on using ammonia vapors (from 1/2 cup of
household ammonia) inside a closed container.  The poster mentioned that 
the green patina must be sealed.  I think they used spray laquer.

> 
> Ideally, I would like to find a souce of brass caps for the ends (3/4
> inch diameter, 1/2 to 1 inch long). If anybody knows of a source, please
> let me know.

If you are happy with copper, 3/4" tubing caps should be easy to find.

> 
> Mike LeBlanc, BSc, CPHI(c)    Visit the Health inspector's Homepage:
> Public Health Inspector       http://members.tripod.com/~ae858/index.html
> Moncton, NB
> Canada, eh!

Paul in AJ AZ




From jriser@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:01 EDT 1996
Article: 31805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 22 Jul 1996 16:09:52 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
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In article <4t025c$lgk@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:

> I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
> I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and another
> rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
> In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") diameter
> and put some iron into it.
> After starting the arc at 80 amps the irom melted within seconds.
> But the chamotte too. I did the same (with or without iron) with a piece
> of ordinary concrete, 1650 C rated refractory concrete, pumice or a Hessian
> crucible. All of them melted easily close to the arc within seconds.
> Using a cuttlefish bone (virtually pure CaCO3) which would result in
> decomposing
> to CaO which is 'unmeltable' resulted in vaporizing the CaO (bp 3000 C) and
> glassy traces of melting (mp 2700 C). Not an option either. I might try
> marble which I don't have at the moment which is more 'solid' CaCO3.
> Graphite itself cannot be used as some metals dissolve the carbon.
> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
> melt of vaporize too quickly ?
> 
> Klaas

Have you tested porcelain crucibles?  How about copper coated carbon
electrodes? If not, in about a month I could send you a couple small
crucibles to test.
Jim

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From anvil@iap.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:21:02 EDT 1996
Article: 31806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anvil Repair Electrodes
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 02:05:28 +1000
Organization: IAP Direct
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I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel anvil. 
All I can get over here In Western Australia are electrodes with a nickel 
content. while they probably work well I would prefer the anvil face not to 
be covered in silver streaks. 
Thanks

Colin Morton  anvil@iap.net.au


From a.bartz@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:03 EDT 1996
Article: 31807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.bartz@ix.netcom.com(Alan D. Bartz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Taiwanese lathes - Improvements?
Date: 22 Jul 1996 17:40:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <31F2AE83.67F6@dsto.defence.gov.au> Ken Harvey
<ken.harvey@dsto.defence.gov.au> writes: 
>
>I have a Taiwanese lathe, Lantaine 350B, 10"x24". Can anyone suggest 
>some improvements I can make to it that are really worthwhile? How
about 
>replacing the headstock bearings? Is that likely to worth it? Any 
>suggestions please.
>Ken Harvey
Some years ago, Home shop machinist had an article call "Poshin' up a
Taiwaneese lathe".  

Alan


From jriser@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:04 EDT 1996
Article: 31808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG welding aluminum w/small rig
Date: 22 Jul 1996 16:09:53 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
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References: <31EE3F01.4181@media.mit.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 169.197.6.36

In article <31EE3F01.4181@media.mit.edu>, Matthew Brand
<brand@media.mit.edu> wrote:

> A friend claims to have seen an artist weld aluminum with a little 120V
> MIG home welding rig.  Is this possible?

Matthew;
My Lincoln SP 125 Plus (120 volt) will supposedly weld 10-16 guage
aluminum with .035 wire.  You will need to run 100% argon.  They say in
the manual that you really should use an aluminum kit for such work (new
clean liner and tip).  Since my welding is done outside in the wind, I
haven't purchased an argon tank yet to give it a try.  Please let me know
how it works.
Jim

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From terrencelewis@msn.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:06 EDT 1996
Article: 31809 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns2.borg.com!usenet
From: Terry Lewis <terrencelewis@msn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ice cream parlor chairs
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:24:27 -0700
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I am looking for replicas of the old fashioned ice cream parlor chairs.  
Does anyone know someone that can make these for me or where they are 
available?


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:07 EDT 1996
Article: 31810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!news.bc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: silver solder
Date: 22 Jul 1996 18:42:26 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4t0i2i$p45@ratty.wolfe.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <31F06C58.209D@abrasha.com> Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> writes:


>As far as I know, silver solder NEVER contains lead.  Lead and silver (and/or gold) are 
>never ever mixed.  The presence of lead, will eat holes in the silver (or gold) during 
>the soldering process, because it forms a weird alloy with the silver (or gold) at low 
>temperatures.

There are many solders containing both lead and silver, the most
common of which I think is a high-temperature eutectic solder
with around 97.5% Pb and 2.5% Ag.  (This is high temperature for
a solder, liquidus close to 600 F, but still well below silver
brazing temperatures.  I don't know of any silver brazing alloys
with lead in them.)


--

Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From soltherm@chatlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:08 EDT 1996
Article: 31811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
Subject: Re: Stirling VS Piston Steam?, etc.
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 20:56:29 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31811 sci.energy:52714 sci.energy.hydrogen:4495

brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

->    Re: the Fluidyne pump.  Invented by Colin West, it was intended
for  irrigation and drinking water pump.  Because it works on a
resonance  principle, you'd have some difficulty getting variable
output from  it, but I suppose you could divert unneeded water.

For small system power, West described a rather neat TMG-  a
free-piston  Thermal Magnetic Generator that's yet another variant on
the Stirling.  The free-piston (the displacer and piston aren't
mechanically  coupled, but are set up to oscillate) is connected to a
linear alternator.
->    According to West, the TMG was developed for remote radio
instalations.  Depending on the power required, it could be scaled up
somewhat, but  I think it was designed to put out 20kW.

 West _Principles and Applications of Stirling Engines_  , VNR 1980.
->    He also wrote a book on the Fluidyne, called something like the
->    Liquid Piston Stirling Engines.  I don't have a better reference
to it.
@@ Ref: below...
->    Pete Brooks
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
ALL about fluidynes, etc. 

http://www.iinet.com.au/~steveb/stirling/st_eng.html

Book:

Colin West
Liquid Piston Stirling Engines
Van Norstrand Reinold Co. New York
ISBN 0-442-29237-6

dsg
soltherm@chatlink.com
http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/    -solar thermal electricity 
and Links.




@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@




From manaret@flash.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:09 EDT 1996
Article: 31812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oscillating and Ericcson Engines?
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:50:22 -0500
Organization: Ikonoclast Memetics
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Jim Shockey wrote:

> >Could someone tell me how the oscillating steam engine works?
> >I have seen pics of it, and it apparently does not seem to have
> >any obvious valves. Is this engine that simple? Is it only
> >for special low power purposes or can it be upscaled for
> >heavy work?
> 

	The way it works is that the cylinder has a port in the side
facing its support bracket, and the cylinder itself pivots up and
down, connecting the port alternately to the steam inlet and the 
exhaust port, which are in the ctlinder support bracket. I don't
imagine that it could be scaled up too much. The Ericsson engine,
which was really  more of a brand name than something very different
>from  the Stirling, often did supply useful power in small sizes.
The Stirling engine mutated through many strange and surprising
forms during its heyday, and the only real difference between the
Ericsson and the Stirling engines was that Ericsson's did not use a
regenerator, or "economiser" as Stirling called it. This made them
simpler but less efficient, not much of an issue when fuel is cheap.
And then, if course, the internal combustion engine killed them both.

-- 
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
               http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:21:10 EDT 1996
Article: 31813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: took me 25 years to figure this one out!
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 22:33:34 +0100
Organization: Home
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JHrisoulas writes

>generic type of cat litter (the unscented stuff)

This is "fuller's earth", I believe.
-- 
Charles


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:21:11 EDT 1996
Article: 31814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: S.O.F.A.
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 22:42:06 +0100
Organization: Home
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Distribution: world
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Hot Arn writes

>S.O.F.A

>I am a member of a Blacksmithing Club called Southern Ohio
>Forge & Anvil.

Hmm. Arm-chair blacksmiths, I suppose.
-- 
Charles


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Sat Aug  3 11:21:12 EDT 1996
Article: 31815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman scroll saw
Date: 22 Jul 1996 22:11:02 GMT
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CBear81438 (cbear81438@aol.com) wrote:
: In article <31f24cf9.531509@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
: (bikerbil) writes:

: > $75.oo for the 24 inch model.
: >                     $32.oo for the 18 inch.
: >                 

: You are correct I read the wrong one.   $75 was a bundle back then.   A 49
: chevy was only $2100
Are you sure it was this much.  I remember new "compact" then cars in 65 
costing around $2000.  This was in my teanage years when the price of a
car was quite important to me. 




From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:14 EDT 1996
Article: 31816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bamboo??
Date: 22 Jul 1996 11:58:59 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	Hi, gang; I've got this problem: I'm trying to lop off some thin 
slices of bamboo, maybe 1/8in. thick and 2 to 3in. o.d. The trouble is 
that the stuff sort of comes apart, particularly the "bark" on the 
outside. Can someone suggest a way to cut this that won't disturb the 
material a whole lot?? Does anyone have an idea of how to stabilize the 
material so that it won't fray??
	TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Time flies like an arrow 	
	COMING SOON		:	Fruit flies like a banana...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:15 EDT 1996
Article: 31817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 23 Jul 1996 00:33:06 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Jul 22  5:33:06 PM PDT 1996

In <4t0455$o64@homer.alpha.net> jlovallo@mixcom.com writes: 
>
>Well, it finally has happened!  Thanks to all the people that 
Congratulations John!

You will find that dealing with pyramid is a real pleasure. Merle ( the
owner) is a very knowledgable fellow and will help you rihgt along. His
furnace is a gem and really works beautifully!

And if Winston gives you any advice TAKE IT! That man is an
encyclopedia of casting knowledge.

Next time you talk to Merle, tell him I said hello!

Best of luck with your casting.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From steve_smith@cc.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:16 EDT 1996
Article: 31818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: grinder wheel failure
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Dear Edward,

Thanks for your response. I'm a blacksmith; both my welding and my
grinding are not small as a general rule. Mostly used in making tooling. 
I do try to keep the rpm's down (although I don't know offhand what
speed I'm using).


Edward Haas wrote:

>         10-in. dia. and 2-in. thick sounds like a mighty BIG grinding
> wheel: do you really need something that big?? There's a LOT of kinetic
> energy in a wheel like that!

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Sat Aug  3 11:21:17 EDT 1996
Article: 31819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: Taiwanese lathes - Improvements?
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Lines: 19

In article <31F2AE83.67F6@dsto.defence.gov.au> Ken Harvey <ken.harvey@dsto.defence.gov.au> writes:
>I have a Taiwanese lathe, Lantaine 350B, 10"x24". Can anyone suggest 
>some improvements I can make to it that are really worthwhile? How about 
>replacing the headstock bearings? Is that likely to worth it? Any 
>suggestions please.
>Ken Harvey

Depends on what's wrong with it. I remember these lathes coming out new in
the early '80s. Castings looked pretty good. Finish not so good.

Unless the headstock bearings are shot (possible; we've heard reports of
sand etc left in the castings) I'd be reluctant to tear down the
headstock. You'll have to preload the bearings again.

Worst thing I remember about these was all the feed screws were free
machining mild steel and wore real fast.

Peter Wiley



From methomas@ssi.parlorcity.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:18 EDT 1996
Article: 31820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!not-for-mail
From: methomas@ssi.parlorcity.com (Mark Thomas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: S.O.F.A.
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 03:43:51 GMT
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4t1ibi$i5i@news0-alterdial.uu.net>
References: <4sugig$ec4@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.137.30.123
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I also am a member of SOFA but live in IN so I have only made it to
the fall conferences.  But they do put on a very good conference.
This year it'll be Sept. 28-29.  
Mark Thomas

hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn) wrote:

>Subj:	Re: S.O.F.A.
>Hello,
>            I am a member of a Blacksmithing Club called Southern Ohio
>Forge & Anvil. Our meetings take place at the Miami County Fair Grounds in
>Troy, Oh on the first Saturday of each month at 10:30 am til ???. (Most
>times, but once in a while no one gets there until closer to noon.)
>           We have a rather nice shop with multiple  (5 I think.) coal
>forges and lots of advice. (if you want it or not. =o} )
>           If you are interested  stop by and check us out.
>Keep the anvils ringing.
>Dan Bridenbaugh
>|


>hotarn@aol.com                              DGB
>Keep the anvils ringing.




From blake@ncweb.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:20 EDT 1996
Article: 31821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!op.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etching steel?
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 00:33:14 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <blake-2307960034010001@206.84.2.77>
References: <4t0fdh$pam@panix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-28.ncweb.com

In article <4t0fdh$pam@panix.com>, danw@panix.com (Dan Wold) wrote:

}We're interested in finding out about techniques for etching steel plate.
}
}I've heard about a "soft" resist that will take an impression and lift off.
}
}What etching agents are available? What surface prep is reccomended?
}
}Thanks for any info!
}
}-Dan
}-- 
}Daniel Wold   239 City Island Ave,Bronx,NY,10464  email: danw@panix.com
}Metal Design & Fabrication
}Project Engineer: Gaia Institute - Turning wastes into resources
}"The earth is but one country, and mankind its citizens." -- And America
Rules!!!


I like a metal prep solution from DuPont that you mix 1:3 with water. 
It's about 10 or 12 bucks a quart.

Blake
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Silhouette Metal Signs - Ostriches<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sat Aug  3 11:21:21 EDT 1996
Article: 31822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to center mill turntable?
Date: 23 Jul 1996 05:02:24 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4t1md0$355@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <4s7kja$gs8@agate.berkeley.edu>   <4skrui$ivv@agate.berkeley.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Theodore Henry Phares (tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu) wrote:
: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham) writes:

: > 3. Align machine Z (spindle) axis to turn table Z axis.
: > 
: > Rough in the spindle to table alignment.... rotate the spindle and
: > indicator tip.... look for the circle created by the tip... set the

: What, exactly, is ment by "indicator tip?"  

You need to have a dial indicator, or better, a dial test indicator.
You should also get a spindle mount for the indicator.  You can then
align any cylindrical surface (inside or outside) to be concentric to
the machine spindle.  I struggled for years without one, and could never
do an adequate job of centering.  Now, I can do it in 2 minutes.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sat Aug  3 11:21:22 EDT 1996
Article: 31823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Want: Tabletop lathe-mill-drillpress ???
Date: 23 Jul 1996 05:06:08 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4t1mk0$355@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <31ED280C.30F0@lanl.gov>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

M.E. Moore (memoore@lanl.gov) wrote:
: Does anyone know suppliers for those little tabletop 
: lathe-mill-drillpresses?  We hire out medium size and big work to a 
: local machine shop, but I want to get one of those little all-in-one 
: units for small jobs on-site.

I want to warn you about the Enco version of the chinese 3-in-1 machine.
It actually makes a passable lathe.  The deficiencies as a mill, however,
are severe.  The worst part of the machine is that the milling head can
not be raised or lowered.  The quill travel is too short to change between
a large drill in a jacob's chuck and an end mill in an end mill holder
without raising or lowering the workpiece!  This is a real killer!

There are numerous other deficiencies, but that is the worst.



From jimkw@rmii.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:23 EDT 1996
Article: 31824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!news.rmii.com!usenet
From: jimkw@rmii.com (Jim Kwiecien)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mill Drill Recommedations
Date: 23 Jul 1996 05:55:56 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain Internet Inc.
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <4t1phc$gfk@natasha.rmii.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip22140.rmii.com
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

I apologize for asking something that's probably been asked before, but:  I'm thinking about buying
a mill drill machine.  Grizzley, Enco, MSC, and Jet (and probably some others) all have machines 
that look the same but with considerable variation in price.  Does anyone have any good/bad things
to say about machines from the various suppliers?  Is there really any difference in quality or 
support between MSC and Grizzley?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:24 EDT 1996
Article: 31825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!fred.enteract.com!ix.netcom.com!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum brazing
Message-ID: <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com>
Date: 22 Jul 96 20:59:47 PDT
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 33

I need some advice about welding/brazing aluminum.

The aluminum radiator for the air conditioner in my old car
sprung a leak (an adjacent sharp-edged part had come loose
and rubbed a groove in it).   Since I don't have a TIG machine
yet, I decided to try aluminum brazing.   My instructor from
30 years ago had made it look easy.   However, my current
instructor is on vacation so I had to go it alone.

I picked up a package of Forney "Easy Flo" aluminum brazing
rods.   The instructions on the package say that no flux is
needed.   It says that you just heat the part until you can
melt the rod on it without the flame, rub it in to tin the
part, scratch the surface under heat to work it into the
pores, then melt in enough rod to fill the joint.

Fortunately, I had enough forsight to practice on some scrap
first.   No matter what I did, I could not get the rod to
join with the base part.   Usually I wound up heating the
part so much that it melted in half.

Realizing that I was not skilled enough to fix the radiator,
I took it to a welding shop where they TIG welded it for $20
(a great bargain).

However, I would still like to know what I was doing wrong.
What is the correct technique (and rod) to use for brazing
aluminum?

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:21:25 EDT 1996
Article: 31826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Despot, nee OSH, nee leadscrews
Date: 22 Jul 1996 19:46:38 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 30
Sender: greg Lewis
Expires: 9/1/96
Message-ID: <4t1eee$nlm@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <4rrdiq$26ig@ausnews.austin.ibm.com> <4sm28d$nbs@newsreader.wustl.edu> <felice.136.31EEB4AD@pioneer.net> <4ss8ih$f5g@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <4ss8ih$f5g@news1.svc>,
Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>
>Strangely enough, Home Depot has their hardware in little sliding boxes
>and you can get things like nylon or SS balls, springs, etc.  Much
>better than anything but the board-floored farmers supply down the
>street.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Mike Rehmus
>
>

Well... I just recently had the rudest treatment I have ever received
by a retail clerk at the local Home Despot. When added to the
difficulty of finding a salesperson, much less a knowledgable one, I
have resolved to head for the old-time (over 100 yeras old) store
which is much farther away. There, most of the employees have worked
there for at least the 100+ years they have been in business, and know
what they are talking about. And if they don't have it (rare), they
know exactly where you can get it.

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:21:26 EDT 1996
Article: 31827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!oleane!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Handles: They're easy!
Date: 22 Jul 1996 19:53:37 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 36
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/1/96
Message-ID: <4t1erh$ntc@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <4ruh94$3vg@news.campus.mci.net> <31EC3070.7976@ix.netcom.com> <4sn1kh$6cn@linet06.li.net> <31F116A4.2BF6@alaska.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <31F116A4.2BF6@alaska.net>,
Kevin J. Hansen <kjhansen@alaska.net> wrote:
>Lautard's method works great, though it took me a couple of times 
>through the description to grasp what he was up to.  I then did an Excel 
>spreadsheet to do the calculations, which sped things up considerably.
>
>Lautard also somewhere suggests silver soldering ball bearings to the 
>handle shaft as a quicker alternative...  I haven't tried this, but I'm 
>sure it would be very satisfactory.
>
>Kevin


If all you're doing are handles, then the balls don't need to be
perfect spheres. Therefore, see the April issue of Modeltec, p. 15 for
a quick and dirty metohd. Briefly, turn up the shaft and leave a
section on the end the diameter and length of the ball diameter. Then
mark off from each end of this cylinder a line roughly *a fat 1/4 or a
skinny 1/3 of the ball's diameter (.293 times the diameter, to be
exact).* [quoting from the article]

Then swing the compound around to 45 degrees and cut across the edge
of the cylinder until your cut comes down to the scribed line. After
that it's a simple matter to file off the remainder. 

I've tried this and it works. Takes much less time to do than to write
or read about.


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From jhovel@hitech.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:21:27 EDT 1996
Article: 31828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!msunews!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!lugb.latrobe.edu.au!sheoak.bendigo.latrobe.edu.au!usenet
From: Joe Hovel <jhovel@hitech.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: new web pages
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:20:58 +1000
Organization: Centre for Rural Health
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <31F46F4A.642@hitech.net.au>
Reply-To: jhovel@hitech.net.au
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0b5aGold (Win95; I)

Hi all,
the Melbourne Society of Model and Experimental Engineers is hosting a
and details are available on the net at:
http://www.hitech.net.au/~jhovel/MSMEE.htm
The new July/Aug issue of the Australian Model Engineer is described at:
http://www.hitech.net.au/~jhovel/amejuly96.htm

---------------------------------
Joe Hovel


From johnd@islandnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:28 EDT 1996
Article: 31829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 07:19:43 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i1-65.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

hi,

Just received (finally) my end mill holders and now I can play with my
Drill press conversion.  I should have my drawbar installed in a day
or so and then I can safely do some milling in steel.  Not to say that
I haven't tried it using the 5/8" chuck to hold the end mill and
taking light cuts.  Works peachy in Al. and yesterday I even tried a
bit of steel.  Not much chatter.

So... for the question.  Given that I am following a chart for end
mill speeds ie; x RPM for d Diameter mill and that my drill press is
equivelent to an inexpensive far east Mill/Drill how big a pass should
I be able to make with this.

Lets say, for example I want to make a slot in mild steel 3/8" wide
and 1/2" deep.  On a huge Bridgeport can it be done in one pass or how
many passes should it take on:  (Give Mill RPM and number of passes) 

Sherline mill ??

Lathe (4.5" and 18" between centers) c/w Milling Vise ??

Lathe (8" and 36" between centers)   c/w Milling Vise  ??

Myford Mill ??

Taiwan type MILL/Drill (Sells for about $2000)

Gingery Mill ??

Is this purely a function of Motor horsepower or is size and mass a
portion of the formula?

Thanks

John.










Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:21:29 EDT 1996
Article: 31830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: Sticky steel???
Date: 22 Jul 1996 20:14:02 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <4t1g1q$oij@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

I'm working on some 8-inch diameter rings that I've cut from a 
piece of 1-inch-thick steel plate. The plate came from the 
scrapyard so I don't know what it is. This material seems to be 
*sticky*. That is, it will not machine cleanly, but leaves a rough 
surface. It almost tears rather than cuts. Under magnification, it 
seems as though the toolbit cuts in for a short span, then the 
material globs up and leaves a tiny high spot before the cutter 
digs in again. There is more build-up on the edge of the toolbit 
that with other steels.

I have had this problem before with some other scrapyard hot 
rolled steel. I've tried a variety of toolbits and shapes 
including sharp-pointed roughing tools and round-nose finishing 
bits with nose radii from 1/64 to 1/16 and more in both HSS and 
carbide, all of which work well with 1018 cold rolled. I've 
checked them to be sure the cutting edges are sharp, and dressed 
them with stones. I've checked the bit geometry against the South 
Bend booklet and confirmed my toolholder alignment. I've monkeyed 
with rake and have also tried setting the toolbits above and below 
centerline from a tiny bit to an outrageous amount.

I don't have problems with other materials. Nothing I have tried 
seems to produce a smooth surface. What sort of steel is this? 
Although I can finish these with a file, I'm trying to hold some 
tolerances and I'd like to get a smooth surface by machine rather 
than by hand. Any suggestions? TIA!!


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010

Life is unpredictable. Eat dessert first.


From rgordon@castles.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:30 EDT 1996
Article: 31831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!miwok!castles.com!news
From: rgordon@castles.com (Randy Gordon-Gilmore)
Newsgroups: ba.market.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: *FS* Orbit Bench Drillpress
Date: 23 Jul 1996 07:55:08 GMT
Organization: CASTLES Information Network
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4t20gs$6e5@chewy.castles.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: benicia22.castles.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset=US-ASCII
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.7

FOR SALE

Orbit OR-1758 benchtop drillpress - well built and sturdy
12 speed, 250-3000rpm
5/8HP motor
5/8" Jacobs chuck
13.5" circular table
3" column
With 20x30x27H wood table (3x3 legs, 1x3 bracing)

$125 (will deliver in SF Bay Area)

for extra $30 I'll throw in welded-shank hole saws - 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1-1/8", 
1-1/4", 1-3/8", 1-1/2", 2" (or will sell these for $40 without drillpress)
--
Randy Gordon-Gilmore   ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
Benicia, CA, USA      // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
rgordon@castles.com  /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
                                  -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-



From soltherm@chatlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:31 EDT 1996
Article: 31832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.chatlink.com!news
From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 06:28:25 GMT
Organization: isc
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4t1q1t$qdl@news.chatlink.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cl2-p6.chatlink.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Could anyone recite what their state's  boiler laws are?

Is there a maximum PSI and Temp where inspection comes into play?

Are private citizens not selling a product be subject to these laws?


dsg
http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/



From rnichols@interaccess.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:32 EDT 1996
Article: 31833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!inXS.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.null.org!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline mill question
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 02:37:45 GMT
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I've been looking at upgrading to a Sherline mill, possibly the model
5400/5410, which has a larger base and comes with a headstock spacer to
increase the throat distance.  I would also be getting the horizontal
milling conversion.  I'm wondering, though, whether the unit really has
the extra rigidity needed to make all those features useful.  My old
Unimat SL1000 just doesn't have the rigidity needed for milling, and I'm
not at all eager to get another machine that is lacking in that
department.  I've seen the Sherline lathe on display, but I can't find a
local dealer with a mill that I can examine.  I'm not trying to machine
hard materials here, but I'd like a mill whose capability includes
slotting brass with a 3/16" end mill, for example.  My SL1000 starts to
chatter its teeth in fear even before the cutter touches the work if I
try that, and I'm getting tired of ruining the edges of cutters that
way.

On a related topic, what is the current wisdom regarding English
vs. metric feeds?  Does the English version of the Sherline have any
features to assist in the problem of moving, say, 0.427" on a feed where
one revolution isn't an integral number of thousandths?  If I have to do
a manual calculation for that, I might as well just multiply by 25.4 and
have the benefit of a simple, linear scale afterward.  I've never been
able to find even a picture of a Sherline with English feeds.  (Perhaps
that fact alone should answer my question.)

Blue Sky Dept.: If anyone has a recommendation for a fairly low-cost,
rudimentary CNC adaptation for Sherlines, I'd like to hear about it.

(I think that replies in the newsgroup would probably be more
appropriate than e-mail here.  This information is likely of interest to
others.)

aTdHvAaNnKcSe

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:21:33 EDT 1996
Article: 31834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Rivet head enquiry
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 08:46:35 GMT
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For round head rivets under 1/2" diameter, try an allowance of 2 1/2 times
the rivet diameter.  For rivets 1/2" & up check Machinerys Handbook.  For 
a neat head, make sure you can hold the snap square with the work.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:21:34 EDT 1996
Article: 31835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Books
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:00:52 GMT
Lines: 18


Way back in the fifties, an uncle had a copy of a book called the " 
Machinists Bible ".  The dust jacket listed other titles in the series, 
including the " Toolmakers Bible ".  There was a book for almost every trade.
Model engineer had an enquiry about the last book, I know it existed, 
but cant remember the publisher.  
Perhaps someone out there can pass this on to Model Engineer?  Or better 
still, fill out the information further.

The " Machinists Bible " was not like Machinerys, rather, it was full of 
machining setups, hints & tips.  It was published in the 1930s if that is 
any help.

These would be good titles for Lindsay, or Camden to pick up.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sat Aug  3 11:21:35 EDT 1996
Article: 31836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John P.Beckley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: shoulder bolts
Date: 23 Jul 1996 10:08:55 GMT
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I am in the need for bronze shoulder bolts...Is there a source out there ?

1/4 ..20 thread and 5/16ths shoulders.....thread lenght 1/2 inch and the 
 same for the shoulder......

Failing that..what about stainless steel...
  
   Thanks.....

                            John


From Chakib.Benzakour@electrosales.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:36 EDT 1996
Article: 31837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chakib Benzakour <Chakib.Benzakour@electrosales.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: motion and control products: stepper motors, programmable drives, gearmotors....
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 07:51:12 -0400
Organization: ELECTRO SALES CO., INC.
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M O T I O N      R E S O U R C E      I N C.
A division of Electro Sales Co., Inc.

100 Fellsway West,                WWW:    www.electrosales.com
Somerville, MA 02145-2007         E-Mail:Info@electrosales.com          
            
_______________________________________________________________
Phone:(617)666-0500  Fax:(617)628-2800  Toll Free:(888)789-0500


Motion Resource has for 50 years specialized in the sale of all
types of motors, controls, and other rotating components for all  
applications to all industries. We offer the widest selection  
of rotating equipment including ac/dc, brushless, permanent 
magnet, fractional horsepower motors, gearmotors, stepper motors,
intelligent drives, indexers, multi axis  systems, linear 
actuators, synchros, variable transformers, blowers, and 
much more. 

If you need any of the above product........ Contact  us !!! 



Come visit our home page at:   http://www.electrosales.com

Chakib Benzakour
Application Engineer


From Chakib.Benzakour@electrosales.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:38 EDT 1996
Article: 31838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news-in.tiac.net!news-old.tiac.net!usenet
From: Chakib Benzakour <Chakib.Benzakour@electrosales.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: gearmotors, dc drives, powerstats, stepper motors, multi-axis systems, ac/dc motors
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 07:55:59 -0400
Organization: ELECTRO SALES CO., INC.
Lines: 27
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M O T I O N      R E S O U R C E      I N C.
A division of Electro Sales Co., Inc.

100 Fellsway West,                WWW:    www.electrosales.com
Somerville, MA 02145-2007         E-Mail:Info@electrosales.com          
            
_______________________________________________________________
Phone:(617)666-0500  Fax:(617)628-2800  Toll Free:(888)789-0500


Motion Resource has for 50 years specialized in the sale of all
types of motors, controls, and other rotating components for all  
applications to all industries. We offer the widest selection  
of rotating equipment including ac/dc, brushless, permanent 
magnet, fractional horsepower motors, gearmotors, stepper motors,
intelligent drives, indexers, multi axis  systems, linear 
actuators, synchros, variable transformers, blowers, and 
much more. 

If you need any of the above product........ Contact  us !!! 



Come visit our home page at:   http://www.electrosales.com

Chakib Benzakour
Application Engineer


From ernieleim@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:39 EDT 1996
Article: 31839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!imci5!pull-feed.internetmci.com!news.internetMCI.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sticky steel???
Date: 23 Jul 1996 08:27:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) has been having trouble getting a
smoyth cut on a piece of scrap steel.......

The only time I ran into the problem you describe was when I had to
machine some Invar for some guage blocks.
Invar vibrates like crazy and tears  so you can't machine a smooth
surface. You have to grind it.

Best of luck


@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From JBOBER@IDA.ORG Sat Aug  3 11:21:40 EDT 1996
Article: 31840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.ida.org!jbober-mac.sed.ida.org!user
From: JBOBER@IDA.ORG (James T. Bober)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 08:04:24 -0500
Organization: IDA
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In article <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com>,
tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray) wrote:

>...
>    After many unsuccessful experiments, I went down to the beach (only a
> mile from here) and got a bucket of beach sand. The weight drops into the
> bucket of DRY sand with absolutely no bounce or loud noise or strain on
> anything. When I pull the weight up, the sand fills the depression so that
> the next drop will act exactly the same.
>    Beach sand here has fine, round particles, which form a rather shallow
> angle of repose. Sand for concrete, which I also tried, is sharp and
> angular, and does not flow back into its pre-drop configuration.
>...

For some experiments I did years ago, which required reproducably stopping an
accelerating mass without rebound under various conditions, I found that
zirconium oxide was the best substance available for my application. It was
finer and flowed and packed better than any sand I could find.

Jim


From david@psnw.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:41 EDT 1996
Article: 31841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Eiman <david@psnw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline mill question
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 05:48:21 -0700
Organization: ProtoSource Network
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To: Robert Nichols <rnichols@interaccess.com>

Robert-

The Sherline will be much more Rigid than the old Unimat.  It won't be 
as rigid as a Bridgeport. You can get the adjustable (zero) handwheels 
and can also attach a dial indicator to the spindle to get readings for 
.427".  You have to decide which system (inch or metric) you work in 
most often. 

If you want to trade in the old Unimat or just get a good discount, drop 
me a note when you are ready to order.  I am a Sherline dealer and can 
have the factory drop ship your machine to you.  The factory then 
handles any problems directly.  I act more as a broker.  You save $$.
 

   David Eiman                            AWI 18405
             Fresno, CA                             NAWCC 0072811

************************************************************************                                             
Collecting, buying, selling and trading antique and modern watchmakers                      
lathes.  Agent for Starrett WW collets and authorized Sherline dealer.                                                                                                                                                         
************************************************************************

                                                              




Robert Nichols wrote:
> 
> I've been looking at upgrading to a Sherline mill, possibly the model
> 5400/5410, which has a larger base and comes with a headstock spacer to
> increase the throat distance.  I would also be getting the horizontal
> milling conversion.  I'm wondering, though, whether the unit really has
> the extra rigidity needed to make all those features useful.  My old
> Unimat SL1000 just doesn't have the rigidity needed for milling, and I'm
> not at all eager to get another machine that is lacking in that
> department.  I've seen the Sherline lathe on display, but I can't find a
> local dealer with a mill that I can examine.  I'm not trying to machine
> hard materials here, but I'd like a mill whose capability includes
> slotting brass with a 3/16" end mill, for example.  My SL1000 starts to
> chatter its teeth in fear even before the cutter touches the work if I
> try that, and I'm getting tired of ruining the edges of cutters that
> way.
> 
> On a related topic, what is the current wisdom regarding English
> vs. metric feeds?  Does the English version of the Sherline have any
> features to assist in the problem of moving, say, 0.427" on a feed where
> one revolution isn't an integral number of thousandths?  If I have to do
> a manual calculation for that, I might as well just multiply by 25.4 and
> have the benefit of a simple, linear scale afterward.  I've never been
> able to find even a picture of a Sherline with English feeds.  (Perhaps
> that fact alone should answer my question.)
> 
> Blue Sky Dept.: If anyone has a recommendation for a fairly low-cost,
> rudimentary CNC adaptation for Sherlines, I'd like to hear about it.
> 
> (I think that replies in the newsgroup would probably be more
> appropriate than e-mail here.  This information is likely of interest to
> others.)
> 
> aTdHvAaNnKcSe
> 
> --
> Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From bconner@cybercom.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:42 EDT 1996
Article: 31842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cybercom.net!mfd-dial1-9.cybercom.net!user
From: bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Soft iron electroplate?
Date: 23 Jul 1996 13:34:06 GMT
Organization: Cyber Access Internet Services (617) 396-0491
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b4

Is there some way to lay down an electroplated layer of iron?  Anybody
have any info on solutions, current densities, etc?  Seems like it could
be done and I need it for a special project.

Thanks!


Bruce Conner
bconner@cybercom.net


From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:43 EDT 1996
Article: 31843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.serv.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!r.lee
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 10:06:09 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John
Dammeyer) wrote:

snip

> 
> Lets say, for example I want to make a slot in mild steel 3/8" wide
> and 1/2" deep.  On a huge Bridgeport can it be done in one pass or how
> many passes should it take on:  (Give Mill RPM and number of passes) 

snip

you have to take into account that with a slot drill (center cutting endmill)
that:

1. depth of cut when sloting should never be more than 1/2 the diam. of
the cutter... so to cut a slot 1/2" deep (easy on bridgeport in mild steel
even an old 1 HP Bridgeport like mine can make chips of 3/4 of a cubic
inch of steel a min and that is the old rule of thumb 3/4 to 1 Cu Inch of
MS per HP per Min) you would need a 1" dia cutter... with a 3/8 slot
(disreguarding that for 'nice' work you would use a 5/16 dia cutter and
then finish the slot exactly to size as your 3/8" slot drill will cut a
few thou over size) you would make multi passes 3/16 deep.

 Speeds on a light setup such as yours with a HSS slot drill would be 
about 450rpm don't bother with the info in industrial books... they are
for machines far more stiff than your set up... and they are concerned
with max econ life of a cutter in heavy use... you care about kepping your
cutter as sharp as you can as long as you can... for feed... feed it fast
enought so it does not rub (death to a sharp edge) and not so fast that
you get chatter or dig in. on  a light set up like yours 

get a copy of:
Vertical Milling in the home workshop by A. Thorpe ISBN 0-85242-843-X

one of the Nexus press (used to be Argus) Workshop practice series.(# 2 in
fact) see the FAQ for ordering details... I think Blue Ridge also used to
stock the WP series of books (all highly recomended for the budding HSM)

Good luck... my first 'mill' was an X/Y table on my Old Delta 18" drill
press... I retired it to cordinate drilling as soon as I found an old
Atlas MF horz bench top mill... now that I have the B-port I am looking to
sell the Atlas MF to get a Horz attachment for the B-port (matter of floor
space in the shop) the point is that even the smallest old bench top horz
mill is far more useful for milling than a drill press with an X/Y table
will ever be... but you can learn some useful things about milling with
it.

~R


From rogerm@fc.hp.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:44 EDT 1996
Article: 31844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!ames!night.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!rogerm
From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: 23 Jul 1996 14:21:35 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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In the state of Colorado, if you employ anyone to operate a boiler or it
is used to haul the public for a fee, the boiler must be inspected by the
state. The boiler inspection department is under the Department of Labor.
On the Timnath Northwestern, the boiler of the 6 inch to the foot scale
2-6-2 that Alex Schneider and I built is inspected by the state yearly.
Though we designed and built the boiler our selves, we used all code material
in it's construction and got it certified by the state. After we were done
building it, we did an initial hydrostatic test at 1750 PSI followed by a
hydrostatic test of 600 psi for 2 weeks. The boiler has 4 square feet of
grate area and 100 square feet of evaporative surface along with a fire tube
superheater of 20 square feet. it is operated at a working pressure of
140 PSI. It is 20 inches in diameter and about 8 feet long. Hobby boilers 
are exempt from state regulation.
					Roger Mitchell
`					Vice President and Master Mechanic
					Fort Collins Municipal Railway

					Co-Builder, Timnath Northwestern Ry.
	



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:45 EDT 1996
Article: 31845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!news.inc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!r.lee
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 10:30:47 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <r.lee-2307961006090001@news.nantucket.net>,
r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

snip
> 1. depth of cut when sloting should never be more than 1/2 the diam. of
> the cutter... so to cut a slot 1/2" deep (easy on bridgeport in mild steel
> even an old 1 HP Bridgeport like mine can make chips of 3/4 of a cubic
> inch of steel a min and that is the old rule of thumb 3/4 to 1 Cu Inch of
> MS per HP per Min) you would need a 1" dia cutter... with a 3/8 slot
> (disreguarding that for 'nice' work you would use a 5/16 dia cutter and
> then finish the slot exactly to size as your 3/8" slot drill will cut a
> few thou over size) you would make multi passes  max 3/16 deep.
snip

I should have looked at Thorp before I replyed... the above is normal Ind.
practice for milling with a med sized machine like a Bridgeport with
cooling fluid and is how I do it today...(though I use a MicroDrop system
rather than a flood system to cool and clear chips)

A.Throp recomends for light HSM tools the following:
For HSS spiral flute endmills... Depth of cut up to 1/8 of cutter Diam. up
to 3/16" diam cutters... then up to 1/4 of cutter Diam. if milling a step
then the width of the step up to 1/4 the diam for the cutter.

so based on this you would make those passes 3/32 deep for each pass for
normal endmilling... if slot drilling though Throp says that about .070
per pass is a deep as you should go (450 rpm was his speed for a 3/8 HSS
cutter though)

~R


From carl@scott.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:46 EDT 1996
Article: 31846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shaft Wear Problem
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:45:37 GMT
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On 22 Jul 1996 05:54:22 GMT, tonyspg@voicenet.com (Tony Jucewicz)
wrote:

>Neil Poersch (npoersch@mts.mb.ca) wrote:
>: I have a problem with excessive shaft wear inside the inner race of a
>: bearing. The bearing inner race is carving a deep channel into the shaft. 
>: The shaft is initially a light press fit into the inner race.  However it
>: is, after some use, obviously turning inside the race and eventually
>: chewing up the shaft.  I am hoping that someone on this newsgroup can
>: suggest a solution.


   It sounds to me like your problem is caused largely by the small
diameter of your shaft.  The load on the shaft is exceeding the
compressive strength of the metal.

   Possible solutions include:

    A larger diameter shaft. This will spread the load out over a
larger area.

    A wider bearing.  Same reason.

   A harder shaft.  A harder shaft will have a greater load carrying
capability.

    An outboard bearing.  Same effect as a wider bearing, plus less
bending of the shaft,

    Any combination of the above.


   I hope this helps you.

					Carl Grinnell
					carlgrin@scott.net


From geoff@ihug.co.nz Sat Aug  3 11:21:47 EDT 1996
Article: 31847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: geoff@ihug.co.nz (G Merryweather)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 23:26:52 GMT
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How about sorbothane? It is supposed to be very good at absorbing
energy
Geoff

On Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:04:46 -0700, tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray)
wrote:

>   I was making a machine to stretch ABS plastic by heating it until a
>weight supported by the plastic dropped. There was a problem: the weight
>would bounce back some, allowing the plastic to retract, which would
>deform it.
>   After many unsuccessful experiments, I went down to the beach (only a
>mile from here) and got a bucket of beach sand. The weight drops into the
>bucket of DRY sand with absolutely no bounce or loud noise or strain on
>anything. When I pull the weight up, the sand fills the depression so that
>the next drop will act exactly the same.
>   Beach sand here has fine, round particles, which form a rather shallow
>angle of repose. Sand for concrete, which I also tried, is sharp and
>angular, and does not flow back into its pre-drop configuration.
>   This is a nice solution,m which I am still using. Maybe some of you
>have a suitable problem! :)






















































Avant-Garde Engineering
Woodturning, general engineering and fabrication.
General Blacksmithing and wrought ironwork
Ph/ Fax 64-9-2669936


From carl@scott.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:49 EDT 1996
Article: 31848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:34:11 GMT
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On 22 Jul 1996 16:09:52 GMT, jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
wrote:

>In article <4t025c$lgk@news.knoware.nl>, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>
>> I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
>> I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and another
>> rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
>> In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") diameter
>> and put some iron into it.
>> After starting the arc at 80 amps the irom melted within seconds
>> But the chamotte too.

snip
 
>> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
>> melt of vaporize too quickly ?


   The problem is that there are likely,  no substances that will
stand up to the direct heat of an electric arc.

   The key is to keep the arc from impinging directly on the
refractory, and keep the iron from getting so hot that it destroys the
refractory.

   If you can use a larger crucible and more iron then you should be
able to heat the iron without bringing the arc itself near the
refractory.

  I work in a steel Minimill ( we melt scrap steel then cast and roll
it into medium size structural bars).  Our DC furnace melts up to 90
tons of steel scrap using an arc at up to 65,000 amps and 900 volts.
The furnace shell is 16 feet in diameter to keep the sidewalls away
>from  the arc, and above the slag line we use water cooled panels to
carry away the heat radiated from the arc and the bath.  We also use a
water cooled roof to contain the gasses so that they can be drawn off
through water cooled ductwork to a baghouse where the dust is
captured.  Below the slag line the furnace is lined with refractouy
brick to contain the bath of molten steel.  the brick wears partly
because of the high temperatures but mostly because almost anything
that is heated to a temperature in excess of 3000 degrees farenheit is
very active chemically.

   We worry about the life of the brick lining for economic reasons.
You probably wouldn't have quite the same worries unless you decided
to use your furnace commercially.

   If you will look in the phonebook under refractories you might find
some help selecting what you need.

I hope this answers your questions or at least points you in the right
direction.


From ftsteele@cyberlink.bc.ca Sat Aug  3 11:21:50 EDT 1996
Article: 31849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <31F4F8D0.2AB0@cyberlink.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:07:44 -0700
From: Jody Charlton <ftsteele@cyberlink.bc.ca>
Organization: Fort Steele Heritage Town
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win16; I)
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Patterns?
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Anyone know a source of 1900's tinsmithing patterns?

Thanks
Jody
-- 

****************************************************************************

Fort Steele Heritage Town
ftsteele@cyberlink.bc.ca
http://www.islandnet.com/~bcma/museums/fsht/intro.html

****************************************************************************
Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build bridges, even 
where there are no rivers.  

		--Nikita Khrushchev
****************************************************************************


From andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov Sat Aug  3 11:21:51 EDT 1996
Article: 31850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov (Andrew Morrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ice cream parlor chairs
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 06:59:41 -0800
Organization: JPL
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Originals can be found at every swap-meet for $25-$35 each. Ice-cream
stools, shoe-repair seats, and bar stools are also common. Repros are
made, but I don't know where to suggest you look.

I have eight of the original ice cream parlor chairs in seven different
back design patterns. They include heart, club, bra-back, reverse
bra-back, corset-back, etc. Am looking for original chairs in additional
patterns. Especially diamond- and spade-back designs to complete a card
set. Please let me know where to find them.

Andy (andy@aster.jpl.nasa.gov)

-------------------------------------------------

In article <31F3F18B.705E@msn.com>, Terry Lewis <terrencelewis@msn.com> wrote:

> I am looking for replicas of the old fashioned ice cream parlor chairs.  
> Does anyone know someone that can make these for me or where they are 
> available?


From johnd@islandnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:52 EDT 1996
Article: 31851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 15:48:08 GMT
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Silly me!  I've read through Throp a few times and have always
considered it a bit superficial rather than a really good book about
'how to mill' and so forgot that there was a table in the back.  Well,
I have warmed up the photocopier and pinned the copy of the tables up
beside the drill press.

What the book doesn't quite say if I am cutting a step:

________
        |
        |
        |__
           |
___________|

Do I still follow the same speeds and depth of cut 'as if' I was
drilling a slot?

One point however.  A Bridgeport it ain't but my 20" drill press is
certainly as robust as a Sherline and much bigger than the
Dore-Westbury.  Once I pull the original spindle out to replace it
with my drawbar capable spindle I'll see if I can preload the bearings
somehow.


r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

>snip
>I should have looked at Thorp before I replied... the above is normal Ind.
>practice for milling with a med sized machine like a Bridgeport with
>cooling fluid and is how I do it today...(though I use a MicroDrop system
>rather than a flood system to cool and clear chips)

>A.Throp recomends for light HSM tools the following:
>For HSS spiral flute endmills... Depth of cut up to 1/8 of cutter Diam. up
>to 3/16" diam cutters... then up to 1/4 of cutter Diam. if milling a step
>then the width of the step up to 1/4 the diam for the cutter.

>so based on this you would make those passes 3/32 deep for each pass for
>normal endmilling... if slot drilling though Throp says that about .070
>per pass is a deep as you should go (450 rpm was his speed for a 3/8 HSS
>cutter though)

>~R



Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:21:54 EDT 1996
Article: 31852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper Patina Recipies
Message-ID: <1996Jul23.093314.24255@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Jul 96 09:33:14 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4ss4kn$jeb@star.epix.net>, jim@epix.net (jim) writes:
|>I am working with copper and am in need of some recipies to patinate
|>my pieces.
|>
|>I would also apreciate any help in locating vendors of said patinas.


There is an extensive discussion of patinas in the FAQ.  For example, see
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From dterrell@crane.navy.mil Sat Aug  3 11:21:55 EDT 1996
Article: 31853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Douglas P. Terrell" <dterrell@crane.navy.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Letter Patterns
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 12:15:13 -0500
Organization: Crane Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center
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Folks,

I have a couple of questions:

1) What is the address for the FAQ?

2) Where could a person find letter patterns, I'm wanting to cast
replica builders plates for a train locomotive and I need the basic
letters for the patterns.

Doug Terrell


From slrsystems@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:21:56 EDT 1996
Article: 31854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: slrsystems@aol.com (SLRSystems)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Titanium
Date: 23 Jul 1996 13:38:51 -0400
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My customer doesn't know how hard the titanium is except to say that they
go through 6-7 carbide end mills per 14"  turbine blade.  I'm a
chemist/roboticist, not a metalurgist or even a machinist but my
impression is that this is definitely hard.  Any idea how fast the silicon
carbide stones wear?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Rodney

Rodney Stockton
SLR Systems
3100 George Washington Way
Richland, WA 99352-1663
phone (509) 375-1787
fax (509) 375-4825
email slrsystems@aol.com


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sat Aug  3 11:21:57 EDT 1996
Article: 31855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Screws for Bridgeport type mill
Date: 23 Jul 1996 18:42:06 GMT
Organization: Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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Tim Briggs (tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net) wrote:
: I am looking for some ball screw retrofits for a Bridgeport type milling 
: machine.  I saw some in a catalog once but can't remember where.  Any 
: information would be appreciated.

Call the local bearing suppliers in your area.  Look under bearings in the
Yellow Pages.

Nook and Saginaw Steering gear, among others, make complete retrofit kits
for the bridgeport.


From felice@pioneer.net Sat Aug  3 11:21:59 EDT 1996
Article: 31856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline mill question
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:26:48 GMT
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Well, having asked the same questions that you asked, I bought
a 5400 deluxe mill and am delighted with it. I found it didn't like 1/2 dia
end mills, but other than that it is rigid. The head slipped once on an 
angular cut, and the gibs are a bitch to tighten (need knobs). I've milled 
3/16" brass with no problem. and roughed out a toolmakers vice from solid 
aluminum stock. I got mine from morton machinery by e-mail for a 20% discount
which saves you $125. You will need a vice, a dial indicator and end-mill 
holders. I made mine from blank arbors supplied by Taig, which are way
cheaper than sherlines. I've run a slitting saw 3/4" deep in aluminum as 
well. I also have tried usind a 45 deg dovetail cutter with success. Sherline
has a www site with an online catalog. 


In article <Duz5yx.Cs.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> 
rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) writes:>From: 
rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)>Subject: Sherline mill 
question>Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 02:37:45 GMT

>I've been looking at upgrading to a Sherline mill, possibly the model
>5400/5410, which has a larger base and comes with a headstock spacer to
>increase the throat distance.  I would also be getting the horizontal
>milling conversion.  I'm wondering, though, whether the unit really has
>the extra rigidity needed to make all those features useful.  My old
>Unimat SL1000 just doesn't have the rigidity needed for milling, and I'm
>not at all eager to get another machine that is lacking in that
>department.  I've seen the Sherline lathe on display, but I can't find a
>local dealer with a mill that I can examine.  I'm not trying to machine
>hard materials here, but I'd like a mill whose capability includes
>slotting brass with a 3/16" end mill, for example.  My SL1000 starts to
>chatter its teeth in fear even before the cutter touches the work if I
>try that, and I'm getting tired of ruining the edges of cutters that


From powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu Sat Aug  3 11:22:00 EDT 1996
Article: 31857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: powers@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: S.O.F.A.
Date: 23 Jul 1996 14:26:31 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
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>>S.O.F.A
>>I am a member of a Blacksmithing Club called Southern Ohio
>>Forge & Anvil.
>
>Hmm. Arm-chair blacksmiths, I suppose.
>Charles

 How did you guess that one of my current projects is a reproduction
of a medieval iron chairs...and me being a S.O.F.A. member?

Thomas
Columbus. OH

Remember;  Quad-State  is coming up the end of September!



From judson@vt.edu Sat Aug  3 11:22:01 EDT 1996
Article: 31858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Composites Lab <judson@vt.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Chemical Milling of Commercially Pure Titanium
Date: 23 Jul 1996 20:01:51 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech Materials Science & Engineering Dept.
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I am in search of a chemical or electrochemical milling technique to remove about 0.03 inches 
of CP Ti from a piece of jewelery I'm trying to make.  I probably have access to any equipment 
necessary.  I am also looking for a maskant to use as an etch stop on this piece so as to make 
a specific pattern on the piece.  Any advice would be appreciated.





From janecek@tezcat.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:02 EDT 1996
Article: 31859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janecek@tezcat.com (Jim Janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: took me 25 years to figure this one out!
Date: 23 Jul 1996 20:01:55 GMT
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In article <425KqCAuO$8xEwp6@abdab.demon.co.uk>, Charles Lamont
<Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:

> JHrisoulas writes
> 
> >generic type of cat litter (the unscented stuff)
> 
> This is "fuller's earth", I believe.
> -- 
> Charles

"Fuller's Earth" is an all-encompassing term for any type of diamtomaceous
earth.  They are normally clays and clay-like compounds.
However the term "Fuller's Earth" is normally not used for cat-litter
sized particles.
It is used for the more powdery versions.

"Fuller's Earth" is used to thicken paint and as a base for some cosmetics.
It is also used as filtering media for pools.

In LA, a 50# bag can be obtained for about $15.
In chicago, the same bag costs about $120 (if you can find it)

Unless you're in LA, the cat litter is cheaper and easier to obtain.

-- 
Jim Janecek


From paulp@netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:04 EDT 1996
Article: 31860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!paulp
From: "Paul Passarelli" <paulp@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Message-ID: <01bb78ce$e910a980$0f02000a@passarelli>
Sender: paulp@netcom16.netcom.com
Organization: Continuum Systems
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1132
References: <4t025c$lgk@news.knoware.nl>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 19:41:47 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31860 sci.materials:19184 sci.engr.metallurgy:7810



C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote in article
<4t025c$lgk@news.knoware.nl>...
> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
> melt of vaporize too quickly ?
> 
> Klaas
> 

  I would try MgO mp 2852 C bp 3600 C  and a bigger hole.

-- 
--Paul
------------------------------------------------------------
Continuum Systems (203)846-2500
paulp@netcom.com


From jriser@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:05 EDT 1996
Article: 31861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-11.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.azstarnet.com!usr9ip40.azstarnet.com!user
From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum brazing
Date: 23 Jul 1996 15:48:59 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <jriser-2307961025200001@usr9ip40.azstarnet.com>
References: <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 169.197.10.40

In article <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com>, frisbie@flying-disk.com
(Alan Frisbie) wrote:

> However, I would still like to know what I was doing wrong.
> What is the correct technique (and rod) to use for brazing
> aluminum?
> 
> --  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
> --  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
> --  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
> --  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)

Alan;
I was at a welding demo a few months ago and a guy was welding aluminum
with "190 rod" and a blue powdered flux.  It did a great job.  The problem
is always that the rod melts at only a few degrees cooler than the base
aluminum.  You really need to use a relatively cool flame and apply the
rod as soon as the flux beads up.  I feel that this flux and rod is much
easier to use than the fluxless type.  It's a good idea to stainless steel
brush parts first to clean the surfaces. The rod comes in two types - one
for flowing out and the other for building up (like for filling holes).  I
hope this helps.  If you get any info from others, please forward it on to
me.  Thanks.
Jim

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:06 EDT 1996
Article: 31862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!BellSouth!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!uniserve!news.sol.net!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!r.lee
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Patterns?
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:51:37 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <r.lee-2307961651370001@news.nantucket.net>
References: <31F4F8D0.2AB0@cyberlink.bc.ca>
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In article <31F4F8D0.2AB0@cyberlink.bc.ca>, Jody Charlton
<ftsteele@cyberlink.bc.ca> wrote:

> Anyone know a source of 1900's tinsmithing patterns?
> 
Try Old Sturbridge Village in Sturbridge MA... they have an active 1800
tinsmith shop...

~R


From janecek@tezcat.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:07 EDT 1996
Article: 31863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tezcat.com!janecek.tezcat.com!user
From: janecek@tezcat.com (Jim Janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: 23 Jul 1996 20:26:48 GMT
Organization: Personal Effects
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <janecek-2307961531460001@janecek.tezcat.com>
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I know- it costs more- but in my work, I use a set of ACE brand adjustable
hydraulic shock absorbers.

The demo at the Design Engineering Show has 2 bowling balls that are
picked up by a suction cup.
One is dropped about 6 feet onto a large spring.  It bounces around for a
few seconds until it settles.

The second ball is dropped onto an ACE shock that has been adjusted to
absorb all the kinetic energy of the ball.

It drops and is linearally decelerated over a length of 3-4 inches to a
dead stop.  It looks great. The deceleration happens in a split second.

they are used in manufacturing to decelerate loads with no recoil

-- 
Jim Janecek


From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:08 EDT 1996
Article: 31864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!r.lee
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:45:46 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 136
Message-ID: <r.lee-2307961645460001@news.nantucket.net>
References: <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961006090001@news.nantucket.net> <r.lee-2307961030470001@news.nantucket.net> <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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In article <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John
Dammeyer) wrote:

> Silly me!  I've read through Throp a few times and have always
> considered it a bit superficial rather than a really good book about
> 'how to mill' and so forgot that there was a table in the back.  Well,
> I have warmed up the photocopier and pinned the copy of the tables up
> beside the drill press.

Well Throp is no Tubal Cain thats for sure....

> What the book doesn't quite say if I am cutting a step:
> 
> ________
>         |
>         |
>         |__
>            |
> ___________|
> 
> Do I still follow the same speeds and depth of cut 'as if' I was
> drilling a slot?
> 
snip

In the case above I go in sidways 1/4 diam of cutter and depth down 
Well the speeds and feeds I use on my B-port as starting points (note
these are just starting points... I adjust feeds by 'feel' from them) are
as below:
for HSS; Cribbed and modified and simplified for the need of my own shop
>from  the chart by Tubal Cain in "Milling opperations in the lathe" ISBN
0-85242-840-5 # 5 in the workshop practice series:
 from page 27:
In the case above I go in sidways 1/4 diam of cutter and depth down = to
cutter Diam. 
I slot at a depth of 1/2 cutter Diam and with a roughing cutter Slot at a
depth = to the cutter diameter.

now speeds and feeds I hope I have avoided too many typos in this but I
expect the real experts here will let me know If it is messed up too
badly.

>from  Page 118 with a bit of mod. to make it touch simpler; note that these
are Speeds and feeds for use when a cutter is to be pushed closer to it's
industrial rating... and the cutters must be resharpend "as soon as
distress is evident" as T.C. Says.

An '*' in a slot means "Cutter speed, Max available up to the speed given
with a tooth load = cutter dia/100; 
Feed rate is then = tooth load * RPM * Number of teeth

for 4 cutter HSS endmills in Cast steel, Malleable Iron, Monel metal, 18-8
S-Steel, HS steel (annealed), Steel Drill rod, And Phospher Bronze

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16           2000        0.19
1/8            1000        0.38
3/16            700        0.63
1/4             500        0.88
3/8             350        1.13
1/2             250        1.31
5/8             200        1.38
3/4             150        1.50
 1              130        1.63

for 4 cutter HSS endmills in Bronze, Cast Iron, Hard Copper, Gunmetal
Nickel Silver, and Mild Steel

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16           3800        0.50
1/8            1920        1.00
3/16           1280        1.38
1/4             960        1.75
3/8             640        2.63
1/2             480        3.00
5/8             385        3.13
3/4             320        3.50
 1              240        3.88

for 4 cutter HSS endmills in Aluminium, Brass, Muntz Metal, Duralumin

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16             *            *
1/8           *8100          4*
3/16          *5350        5.5*
1/4           *4000          8*
3/8            2700          11
1/2            2000          13
5/8            1600          14
3/4            1350          14
 1             1000          12


for 2 cutter HSS endmills (Slotdrills) in Cast steel, Malleable Iron,
Monel metal, 18-8 S-Steel, HS steel (annealed), Steel Drill rod, And
Phospher Bronze

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16           2000        0.25
1/8            1200        0.50
3/16            800        0.75
1/4             600        1.00
3/8             480        1.25
1/2             400        1.25
5/8             350        1.50
3/4             300        1.50
 1              240        1.50

for 2 cutter HSS endmills (Slotdrills) in Bronze, Cast Iron, Hard Copper,
Gunmetal
Nickel Silver, and Mild Steel

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16           3800        0.50
1/8            3200        1.63
3/16           2100        2.13
1/4            1600        3.00
3/8            1200        4.00
1/2            1000        4.00
5/8             900        4.50
3/4             800        5.25
 1              600        5.25

for 2 cutter HSS endmills (Slotdrills) in Aluminium, Brass, Muntz Metal,
Duralumin

Cutter Dia     RPM      Feed "/min
1/16             *            *
1/8           *9170        4.5*
3/16          *6110          6*
1/4           *4590          6*
3/8            3055          12
1/2            2295          15
5/8            1835          15
3/4            1525          12
 1             1145         9.5


From jesw@mitre.org Sat Aug  3 11:22:09 EDT 1996
Article: 31865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!agate!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 23 Jul 1996 17:11:33 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <jesw-2307961314240001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <4s3jum$1c4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4stct1$1cg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> I've heard that a Skil saw will cut sheet metal better if you put the
> blade in backwards.
This can work surprisingly well, at least on stainless steel which has low
heat conductivity.  The workpiece gets hot enough from friction that it
starts to weld to the blade and is torn off in tiny red-hot particles.  
The blade stays cooler because a lot of blade rubs on a small area of
sheetmetal.  The blade wears/melts back slowly but still cuts.  I've been
unable to get mild steel hot enough to cut with only blade friction.


From dterrell@crane.navy.mil Sat Aug  3 11:22:10 EDT 1996
Article: 31866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.magg.net!news.c802.crane.navy.mil!usenet
From: "Douglas P. Terrell" <dterrell@crane.navy.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith coke
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:01:57 -0500
Organization: Crane Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <31F53DC5.593C@crane.navy.mil>
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davida05@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> Klaas - thank you for your thoughts about using supermarket charcoal briketts for blacksmith
> fuel.  I've tried them, but find that they have a short life as compared with
> the coke I remember as a 12-year old boy.  In those days, the blacksmith
> had a slow fire burning all day long; when he wanted to get it up to full
> heat, it only took a couple of turns of the hand cranked blower to develop
> a strong fire.  Then, after 10 or 15 minutes of usage, he would let the fire
> remain unattended for maybe several hours if need be.  Then, it could be
> revived again.  My experience with charcoal briquettes is that they have
> a useful life of no more than 60 minutes, and maybe less when under
> forced draft.  Still, if there is no other source of fuel, I guess that's what
> I need.   Acutally, I got about 50 pounds of metallurgical coke from a
> cast iron foundry (cupola fuel).  But it is in large pieces maybe 10 inches
> across, or even more, and extremely brittle.  Also, it's difficult to ignite.
> Instead of blacksmith's coke, I would settle for bituminous coal, even
> through it probably contains some sulfur which is bad for iron - causes
> "hot shortness".  Thanks again.   Dave


There  is a coal yard in Brazil, Indiana which stocks Pocahontas Coal,
which several of the blacksmiths in this area use. I beleive the guy
will ship 25 or 50 lbs if your willing to pay the shipping.

Doug Terrell


From johnd@islandnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:11 EDT 1996
Article: 31867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 22:26:48 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4t3jqn$pkk@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
References: <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961006090001@news.nantucket.net> <r.lee-2307961030470001@news.nantucket.net> <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961645460001@news.nantucket.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i1-71.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

>In article <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John
>Dammeyer) wrote:


snip

>In the case above I go in sidways 1/4 diam of cutter and depth down 
>Well the speeds and feeds I use on my B-port as starting points (note
>these are just starting points... 

<Giant Humongous snip>

Wow!  Thanks.

John.



Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From JIM_MCGILL@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:13 EDT 1996
Article: 31868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hpbs2500.boi.hp.com!news
From: Jim McGill <JIM_MCGILL@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:49:50 -0700
Organization: HP
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <31F5651E.3233@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com>
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I've finally decided that I really have outgrown engineering pads and
need to buy a home CAD system. I know I've seen comments about various
products here in the past, but I couldn't find them collected in any
accessable way in the archives. I tried searching the web, but most CAD
there seems to be commercial systems and aimed at architecture. So
here's my proposal. Any of you out there that use a home CAD system
(sorry, CATIA doesn't qualify) send me your comments on the one(s) you
know and I'll consolidate your comments into a cohesive document and
send it on to the archives at U. Wyoming to be added to the FAQ. Please
include the complete system name, maker of the system, version you use,
platform, and approximate cost. If you have found things that the system
does really well or unexpected limitations, please include them.  Since
this will be used by many people for quite a while in the future, try to
be as thoughtful and complete as you can. Think about what you'd want to
know before investing hard earned $'s (or Pounds or Leva) in software
and  also remember that many readers may not have perfect command of
slang so try to be clear in your comments.

Thanks much gang

Jim McGill


From sherrick@slonet.org Sat Aug  3 11:22:14 EDT 1996
Article: 31869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.callamer.com!spork.callamer.com!sherrick
From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brother of HF; how much to make a corpse
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 17:20:03 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com>
References: <96194.201612IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> <4s7ege$f6t@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu>
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To: Robert Galloway <rgallowa@nyx10.cs.du.edu>
In-Reply-To: <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu>

I worked in the HF Alkane plant in richmond Cal. and the safety class we
took talked about the dangers of HF. Hydrofluoric acid becomes more
corrosive when mixed with water. The human body is made of primarliy
water. They kept an ambulance on hand to take any exposed personnel to the
hospital. The ambulance was equiped with a 400 gal water tank to irrigate
the exposed area. The idea here was to dilute as much as possible. I will
never knowingly work with HF without MAJOR safety precautions.

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On 19 Jul 1996, Robert Galloway wrote:

> >HF, however, is an extremely powerful acid.  It is the acid of choice for
> >etching glass, which resists practically all other chemicals.  When
> >splashed on the skin (we're talking about fairly concentrated HF, here)
> >it burns rapidly through the skin, making deep, narrow ulcers, and
> >continues until it hits bone!  When it hits the bones, it causes an
> >exothermic ion-exchange reaction, forming Ca2F (I think the 2 is right),
> >another salt.  The reaction is supposed to actually cause flames if the
> >amount of HF is sufficient!  (This takes a massive burn like an industrial
> >accident.)  Definitely not a pretty thought!
> 
> I think the person who gave the above description was taking a little 
> poetic license.  HF is routinely used to remove ceramic that is bonded to 
> Chrome-cobalt alloys.  Technicians have been known to inadvertantly pick 
> pieces of the alloy out of a HF acid bath with bare fingers.  This is a 
> medical emergency but the fingers don't immediately go up in smoke.  It's 
> said (haven't tried it) that the initial reaction is painless.  The HF 
> penetrates the skin with little overt sign of damage.  The finger tips 
> (if that's all you exposed) are eventually lost as in ergotism or frost bite.
> 
> rhg
> 
> 



From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:15 EDT 1996
Article: 31870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl12.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sticky steel???
Date: 23 Jul 1996 16:10:14 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <4t3m4m$cd9@crl12.crl.com>
References: <4t1g1q$oij@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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In article <4t1g1q$oij@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>,
Greg Lewis <gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> wrote:
>I'm working on some 8-inch diameter rings that I've cut from a 
>piece of 1-inch-thick steel plate. The plate came from the 
>scrapyard so I don't know what it is. This material seems to be 
>*sticky*. That is, it will not machine cleanly, but leaves a rough 
>surface. It almost tears rather than cuts. Under magnification, it 
>seems as though the toolbit cuts in for a short span, then the 
>material globs up and leaves a tiny high spot before the cutter 
>digs in again. There is more build-up on the edge of the toolbit 
>that with other steels.
>
>I have had this problem before with some other scrapyard hot 
>rolled steel. I've tried a variety of toolbits and shapes 
>including sharp-pointed roughing tools and round-nose finishing 
>bits with nose radii from 1/64 to 1/16 and more in both HSS and 
>carbide, all of which work well with 1018 cold rolled. I've 
>checked them to be sure the cutting edges are sharp, and dressed 
>them with stones. I've checked the bit geometry against the South 
>Bend booklet and confirmed my toolholder alignment. I've monkeyed 
>with rake and have also tried setting the toolbits above and below 
>centerline from a tiny bit to an outrageous amount.
>
>I don't have problems with other materials. Nothing I have tried 
>seems to produce a smooth surface. What sort of steel is this? 
>Although I can finish these with a file, I'm trying to hold some 
>tolerances and I'd like to get a smooth surface by machine rather 
>than by hand. Any suggestions? TIA!!
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
>Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
>     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
>CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010
>
>Life is unpredictable. Eat dessert first.


I've had stuff like this too.  The stuff may be trench plate made in 
Korea out of scrap from LMS and ships and who knows what?  It may be that 
it is higher in Manganese than a usual CRS or HRS.  It would probably 
grind OK if you had a tool post grinder.  Trench plate is about an inch 
thick or seems so when I drive across it on the freeway.  If it is scrap 
remelt and reroll then your only choice is to have it analyzed.  We could 
probably say it is lead and bismuth free.

JerryK


From allison3@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:16 EDT 1996
Article: 31871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: allison3@ix.netcom.com (Lawrence W. Allison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Letter Patterns
Date: 24 Jul 1996 00:53:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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>2) Where could a person find letter patterns, I'm wanting to cast
>replica builders plates for a train locomotive and I need the basic
>letters for the patterns.
>
>Doug Terrell

Doug, I have purchased plastic letters from Scott Plastics Co. Double-
sided scotch tape to pattern quick easy and inexpensive.

Scott Plastics Co
P.O. Box 1047
Tallevast, FL  34270

(813) 355-5171

By the way the letters already have the correct draft and cast well.

				Regards, Larry



From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:17 EDT 1996
Article: 31872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: shoulder bolts
Date: 23 Jul 1996 16:24:46 -0700
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In article <4t28bn$pru@freenet-news.carleton.ca>,
John P.Beckley <ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:
>
>I am in the need for bronze shoulder bolts...Is there a source out there ?
>
>1/4 ..20 thread and 5/16ths shoulders.....thread lenght 1/2 inch and the 
> same for the shoulder......
>
>Failing that..what about stainless steel...
>  
>   Thanks.....
>
>                            John

You might try Harrison and Bonnini in San Francisco, area code 415 - ask 
information for their number.  I know they have lots of bronze and SS 
bolts, screws, etc.  There is a competitor of theirs around the corner 
but don't know the name of them, who have similar stock.

JerryK


From wirdweird1@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:18 EDT 1996
Article: 31873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wirdweird1@aol.com (Wirdweird1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum brazing
Date: 23 Jul 1996 22:46:27 -0400
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Practice makes perfect.  We do some aluminum brazing at our shop and only
one person has been able to get the hang of it.  Cleanliness of the
aluminum has a lot to do with success and failure.  Different alloys of
aluminum react differently to the process.  I will check tomorrow with our
brazer and get back to you with more info.

Alan Hall
Alan Hall, wirdweird1@aol.com


From fdelcarm@pica.army.mil Sat Aug  3 11:22:19 EDT 1996
Article: 31874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ferdinand del Carmen <fdelcarm@pica.army.mil>
Subject: Investment casting problem
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Hi,

	I am having problems with investment casting of gold.  The problems 
are the surface defects. If you have any information which can help 
me please let me know.

Here is the process (skipping) the wax pattern : 

1. The mold with the wax pattern is placed in the oven (1200 F) to 
burn out the wax.  The mold stays in the oven over night at 1200 F.

2.  The next day, the mold is removed and placed in a vaccum 
chamber, where vaccum is applied.  At the same time gold nuggets are 
introduce into the crusible, located on top of this machine, where 
they are melted and introduced (by gravity) into the mold.  The 
process is a close system.

3.  The mold is removed, and water is sprayed on the mold to 
solidify the gold.  After that the mold is broken and the gold rings 
are removed.

Problems encountered :  Lots of surface defects.  some are round, 
which suggested present of gas.  And some are of various shapes, 
which may be caused by the investment material.

Questions :  1. Where did the gas come from ?  The mold is under 
vaccum.  Could it be the inclusion in the nuggets? To buy nuggets 
without inclusion is too costly.  2.  Could the mold be braking 
apart due to the molten metal. If yes, any suggests of different 
investment material I should try.  The stuff I use is R2R (trade 
name).

If you have encountered these problems, or have ideas what I should 
do, please let me know.  I appreciate any help you have to offer.

Thank You,

Ferdinand


From penrod@idcnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:20 EDT 1996
Article: 31875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <penrod@idcnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: blacksmith coke
Date: 24 Jul 1996 03:48:08 GMT
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 <davida05@sprynet.com> writes:
> Low sulphur bituminous coal, from marble to egg size. Put in a bucket and add water to cover. Mound on to fire and steam the sulphur out. Continue to add wet coal around the edges of the mound of coke. If the coal is very suphurous you will need to sprinkle additional amount of water over the mound until the coal is coked. Coke will be very light and crumbly. Be sure to build up a large mound and continue to add to the mound pushing inward toward the fire as the coke is consumed. Periodically you will need to clear the air flow from clinker that will settle out of the coal in the coking process.
> 



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sat Aug  3 11:22:21 EDT 1996
Article: 31876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help for cutting P.V.
Date: 24 Jul 1996 04:32:42 GMT
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Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: J.P. Wieser (jpwieser@ripco.com) wrote:
: :  -=> Quoting Steamer@west.net to All <=-

: :  St> --This is starting to sould alot like the "slice-and-dice" 
: :  St> problem encountered in wafer-fabrication shops. The secret is to use
: :  St> the  wax-adhesion method discussed earlier, in order to hold the
: :  St> material to a  block which can be held rigidly onto some fixture. Then,
: :  St> the whole thing  is placed onto a surface grinder which uses a "wheel"
: :  St> cutter that has a  very narrow kerf and runs at a very high speed,
: :  St> possibly with a  spray-mist coolant or lubricant to help get the dust
: :  St> out of the cut.

: :      Yeah, I have one of the cutters, made by Norton. It's 
: : something like 10 micron diamond, on a cutting edge that's about 
: : .002" thick and .020" high. It's completely useless for anything 
: : else but sawing up wafers of semiconductors into individual chips, 
: : and, of course, must be mounted on a very rigid, stable, purpose- 
: : built machine to last even a second.

: I've seen the machine used to do this, at the McDonnell-Douglas
: laser Facility auction.  They used it to dice IR diode lasers from the
: wafer.  It used an air bearing spindle with a direct drive high frequency
: AC motor.  It ran something like 50000 RPM.  The air bearing spindle was
: enormous!  So massive, in fact, that it had lifting eyes on it!  I think
: it weighed about 150 Lbs, from the weight on the shipping crate.
: The machine had massive slide ways to slide the wafer into the wheel,
: and then another slide to index that way over and do it again.

: The machine went for well over $10,000.  (I could look it up if anyone is
: interested.)

It was a Kulicke & Soffa Model 775 Dicing Saw, with a table of blades
and a spare spindle included, sold for $11000, on 1/19/95.


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:22:23 EDT 1996
Article: 31877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 21:48:58 +0100
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Roger Mitchell writes

>we did an initial hydrostatic test at 1750 PSI followed by a
>hydrostatic test of 600 psi for 2 weeks.

>it is operated at a working pressure of 140 PSI.

This is crackers.  If the regulations require a pressure test at over 10
times working pressure, then the people who drew them up are guilty of
terminal wastefulness.  (In my not-so-humble opinion).

-- 
Charles {B.Sc.(Eng.)}


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:22:24 EDT 1996
Article: 31878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 21:36:29 +0100
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dsg writes
>Could anyone recite what their state's  boiler laws are?

Whether the law requires your boiler to be inspected or not, if it
injures anyone, you are going to be liable.  So you need insurance.  You
will not get it insured without a pressure test.

-- 
Charles


From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:22:25 EDT 1996
Article: 31879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!howland.reston.ans.net!surfnet.nl!sun4nl!knoware.nl!usenet
From: Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:51:08 +0200
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:7825 rec.crafts.metalworking:31879

Is it possible to weld copper, brass, aluminum or stainless steel
on an ordinary 150 amps electric welder ?
And, if yes,  which elctrodes do you need ?

Thanks, 

Klaas


From anvil@encryption.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:26 EDT 1996
Article: 31880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anvil@encryption.com (J R Slack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forged Rivet Enquiry
Date: 24 Jul 1996 08:05:24 GMT
Organization: AccessOne
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Message-ID: <4t4lg4$989@news.accessone.com>
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In article <31F16F19.7F79@iap.net.au>, anvil@iap.net.au says...
>
>I have been fabricating some specialised rivets lately.  I decided that to 
get a 
>professional finish that I would make hand held rivet sets by  placing a 
>commercial rivet (Roundhead-16mm or 5/8" shank, and 12mm or 1/2" 
>shank)into the hardy hole. Heating up a large bar and driving it onto the 
>rivet, to make the rivet set.

I have better luck drilling out some of the metal first when making my 
setts; use a drill a little smaller than the head diameter, and drill only 
as deep as the point (just barely to drill diameter).

>This worked well, but on using the rivet set on the same size shanks the 
>results where disappointing to say the least . On the 16mm-5/8" shank I 
had 
>12mm-1/2"  protruding to be riveted over.

Not enough...

>Does any one have any, tips, advice or formulae on the ratio of shank size 
v 
>amount of projection to be riveted, and head size. Also am I asking to 
much to 
>expect to use a hand rivet set on a16 mm shank rivet or do I need the 
force of 
>a machine?

No, you need a bigger hammer!

The usual rule-of-thumb is 1.5 x the shank diameter; this is sometimes 
increased to 2 x, especially for small rivets, and for badly fitted-up 
pieces.

If you like to ponder things scientific, you can figure out what the 
allowance should be: you don't lose any metal, so the volume of metal in 
the finished head = the volume of the shank; you know the diameter, solve 
for the length.



From anvil@encryption.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:28 EDT 1996
Article: 31881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anvil@encryption.com (J R Slack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes
Date: 24 Jul 1996 08:17:57 GMT
Organization: AccessOne
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In article <31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au>, anvil@iap.net.au says...
>
>I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel 
anvil. 
[snip]

What you're looking for are 'hard-facing' electrodes (sorry I can't be more 
specific, but I'm a blacksmith, not a welder).  You might try a welder's 
supply in farm country; they're used for building up worn harrow tines and the 
like.

You'll want to pre-heat your anvil before doing any welding on the face. Dig a 
primitive fire bowl in the ground, fabricate a tuyere, build up a nice fire, 
and heat slowly from the base 'til spit dances on the face; drag 'er out and 
get busy!



From anvil@encryption.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:30 EDT 1996
Article: 31882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!BellSouth!csulb.edu!info.ucla.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!daily-planet.execpc.com!newspump.sol.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.accessone.com!news
From: anvil@encryption.com (J R Slack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith shop needed in Cleveland, Ohio area
Date: 24 Jul 1996 08:08:53 GMT
Organization: AccessOne
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In article <4t06f6$7n8@sulawesi.lerc.nasa.gov>, d.kiefer@lerc.nasa.gov says...
>
>I need to locate a blacksmith in the Cleveland area 
[snip]

Get in touch with the folks at S.O.F.A.
POB 284
Xenia OH 45385
513-372-9100



From jhovel@hitech.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:22:31 EDT 1996
Article: 31883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Joe Hovel <jhovel@hitech.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brother of HF; how much to make a corpse
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 23:09:42 +1000
Organization: Centre for Rural Health
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <31F62096.15DF@hitech.net.au>
References: <96194.201612IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> <4s7ege$f6t@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu> <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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.....
> > I think the person who gave the above description was taking a little
> > poetic license.  

maybe so, but: 

> >HF is routinely used to remove ceramic that is bonded to
> > Chrome-cobalt alloys.  Technicians have been known to inadvertantly pick
> > pieces of the alloy out of a HF acid bath with bare fingers.  This is a
> > medical emergency but the fingers don't immediately go up in smoke.  It's
> > said (haven't tried it) that the initial reaction is painless.  The HF
> > penetrates the skin with little overt sign of damage.  The finger tips
> > (if that's all you exposed) are eventually lost as in ergotism or frost bite.
> >
> > rhg

I know an anorganic chemistry lecturer who had that happening to him: a
very small amount of HF on the forearm went through the skin and made
its way to the bone. Ther it caused the MOST EXCRUTIATING PAIN
imaginable - he was treated with massive doses of morphine to stop him
constantly passing out or going insane.... He is still emotionally and
physically scarred from the experience. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME OR ANY
OTHER PLACE!!! 
---------------------------------
Joe Hovel
Senior Lecturer
Centre for Rural Health
Monash University - Bendigo
---------------------------------
http://www.hitech.net.au/~jhovel/


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:22:32 EDT 1996
Article: 31884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Ericcson hot air engines
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Late in the last century, an American freighter was powered by a large 
Ericcson  engine.  The engine took up a lot of space, and was  replaced with
a tripple expansion steam engine.  Later the ship foundered on the west coast
of Vancouver Island, in Barkley sound.  It is now an underwater park.   
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ignore Sat Aug  3 11:22:34 EDT 1996
Article: 31885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hell@worldnet.com (hell)
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Subject: http://www.geocities.com/tokyo/2383 for swimsuit babe !!!!!!!
Date: 24 Jul 1996 11:12:20 GMT
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http://www.geocities.com/tokyo/2383 for swimsuit babe !!!!!!!



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:35 EDT 1996
Article: 31886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 10:10:10 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <r.lee-2407961010100001@news.nantucket.net>
References: <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961006090001@news.nantucket.net> <r.lee-2307961030470001@news.nantucket.net> <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961645460001@news.nantucket.net> <4t3jqn$pkk@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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In article <4t3jqn$pkk@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John
Dammeyer) wrote:

> r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:
> 
> >In article <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com>, johnd@islandnet.com (John
> >Dammeyer) wrote:
> 
> 
> snip
> 
> >In the case above I go in sidways 1/4 diam of cutter and depth down 
> >Well the speeds and feeds I use on my B-port as starting points (note
> >these are just starting points... 
> 
> <Giant Humongous snip>
> 
> Wow!  Thanks.
> 
> John.

Glad I could help John,

 We Islanders Have to stick together (G) I fell in love with your lovely
island when I visited it for a month back in the early 70s... one of the
nicest places in north america...

one other tip and it is the major one with milling... beware of 'cutter
rub' it will kill an edge so quickly and one of the things that cause it
'just feels right' to someone just starting out.... that is the tendanccy
to reduce feed when things are going badly... that will ofton cause rub...
what is normaly needed is to reduce  the depth of cut and keep up the feed
rate... try to keep 2 flutes of your cutter on the work at all times if
the depth of cut needed is not deep enough to allow that... then select a
smaller endmill

the thing that I still have the hardest time with on the mill vrs the
lathe is getting off the last 'odd thou' it is very hard (for me) to mill
less than 3 to 5 thou off a part with good surface finish... I try to
leave a last cut of say 10 thou for this reason.

good luck and keep us posted on your progress

~R
Windshadow Enginering
Nantucket Island MA USA


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Sat Aug  3 11:22:36 EDT 1996
Article: 31887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news2.digex.net!news5.digex.net!haven.umd.edu!news.ums.edu!umabnet.ab.umd.edu!umabnet.ab.umd.edu!deinhorn
From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 08:22:20 -0400
Organization: University of Maryland at Baltimore
Lines: 20
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I'm a bit baffled on these auto-darkening helmits.  I tried one
for a day, but had problems with it.  Admittably the problems may
be due to my poor welding skills.

   First off, the helmet tended 
to strobe as the result of my having difficulty in keeping an arc.
This tended to be a Catch-22, with the strobing and lack of arc
contributing to each other.

  Secondly, perhaps an engineering type
could answer my main concern about them, speed of filter versus, 
the speed of light.  It is difficult for me to comprehend how the 
filter could possibly respond to the change in light level fast 
enough to prevent at least some damaging flash to hit my eyes.
After all, isn't the **speed-of-light**  faster than the speed of the 
electrical components in the helmet?  It sure appeared to me that 
the brightness increased just prior to the helmet darkening.





From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:37 EDT 1996
Article: 31888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.serv.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!r.lee
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 10:17:33 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <r.lee-2407961017330001@news.nantucket.net>
References: <31F5651E.3233@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com>
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 Jim,
I use a wonderful Product aimed at Enginering users called Cadd Pro

for full details (and great links to compeeting products) see

http://www.flash.net/~cadsoft/

the Mac version has bee released and there is a Mac demo there for DL the
Wintell version is in beta and is due this fall... this is a an incredable
package for the price... 90% of a high end megabuck CAD package for under
$500.
It just flys on my Power mac 8500

here is touch of the blurb from the home page above


                     
                     CADD Pro is a revolutionary
                     computer-aided design (CAD) system for
                     the mechanical and aerospace design
                     communities. CADD Pro provides an
                     integrated collection of curve, surface,
                     and solid modeling tools. Modeling tools
                     are based on Spatial Technology's ACIS
                     geometry engine which features the
                     precision necessary for manufacturing
                     and prototyping parts. Download our
                     PowerMac demo version and tutorial to
                     create a precise mechancial part out of
                     solids in no time!


From clouds@rmi.net Sat Aug  3 11:22:38 EDT 1996
Article: 31889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!info.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!news.bc.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!news.rmii.com!not-for-mail
From: clouds@rmi.net (Philip Duclos)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Investment casting problem
Date: 24 Jul 1996 15:22:52 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain Internet
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <4t5f4c$st9@natasha.rmii.com>
References: <31F4E498.50B@pica.army.mil>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rainbow.rmii.com

First of all, you don't describe your investment method. Do you degas
the investment mixture prior to investing? Do you use vacuum or vibration
to do this? Either works but the techniques are different. Do you "paint"
on a thin coat of investment onto critically small parts and highly
detailed areas? Perhaps you should. Are you using the correct investment
for the detail required and the material being cast? Do you have the mixture
ratios correct? Is the investment old or in some way less than optimal?

Gravity casting works but a little help from centrifugal force or a vacuum
works better.

What is the flask temperature when you cast?
Do you do a stepped burnout?
Do you properly "dry" the flask before burnout?
Is the flask sized properly for the items being cast?

It is critical to allow the flask to cool a certain amount after casting.
The metal should solidify slowly to avoid problems. Typically the flask
is allowed to cool until it is below ~900F (no longer "red") before being
plunged into a water bath, The plunging primarily breaks up the investment
and allows easy removal of the cast pieces. The metal MUST have solidified
properly BEFORE this step.

Round balls of metal attached to cast pieces are usually caused by air
bubbles in the investment mixture. Proper degassing and investing will 
prevent these. There are also "wetting" agents which may be used to better 
adhere the investment to the wax model.

Sharp knife like attachments are usually caused by cracks in the investment.
Proper mixture, degas, investment and burnout are the keys here.

Phil Duclos




From debsamuels@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:39 EDT 1996
Article: 31890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!BellSouth!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: debsamuels@aol.com (DebSamuels)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: 24 Jul 1996 11:48:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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I've enrolled in a blacksmithing workshop and was told to purchase a 1 1/2
or 2 lb. cross peen hammer.  I am unfamiliar with this tool; any
suggestions as to where I could find one?

Thanks in advance!


From 15, Thomas, Street, Emu, Park, Qld, Australia, 4701 Sat Aug  3 11:22:40 EDT 1996
Article: 31891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au!janus.cqu.edu.au!usenet
From: Lance Ryan <ryanl@topaz.cqu.edu.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:34:54 +1100
Organization: Central Queensland University
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <31F60A5D.4A82@topaz.cqu.edu.au>
References: <4t025c$lgk@news.knoware.nl>
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To: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31891 sci.materials:19204 sci.engr.metallurgy:7835

C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
> I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and another
> rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
> In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") diameter
> and put some iron into it.
> After starting the arc at 80 amps the irom melted within seconds.
> But the chamotte too. I did the same (with or without iron) with a piece
> of ordinary concrete, 1650 C rated refractory concrete, pumice or a Hessian
> crucible. All of them melted easily close to the arc within seconds.
> Using a cuttlefish bone (virtually pure CaCO3) which would result in
> decomposing
> to CaO which is 'unmeltable' resulted in vaporizing the CaO (bp 3000 C) and
> glassy traces of melting (mp 2700 C). Not an option either. I might try
> marble which I don't have at the moment which is more 'solid' CaCO3.
> Graphite itself cannot be used as some metals dissolve the carbon.
> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
> melt of vaporize too quickly ?
> 
> Klaas

HI Klass :) I work at a electrofused and deadburn Magnesia plant, In our 
electrofused operation we use the same principle as the one you describe 
but on a larger scale to melt Mgo into large 20ton ingots. The skin of 
the mantle is water cooled, but there is a 300mm bed of Mgo that is not 
fused which acts as a cup for the molten magnesia. Implying this to your 
process one cold suggest that  you immerse your crucible in a water tub 
and provide enough area so as to obtain an interface of powdered iron to 
molten iron.(maybe)
I am interested in the wiring configuration of your device, would it be 
possible for you to Email me the welder configuration and rough lay out 
of the set up. I have been asked by one of our process people to set up 
a similar model to the one you refer to.
Thanks in advance.  
-- 
Lance Ryan
Electrician,Electrical Contractor,Instrument Technician
Bachelor of Engineering Technology's student@
Central Queensland University
Email: ryanl@topaz.cqu.edu.au         * Alas poor Yorich
 Snail Mail:  15 Thomas street.        I could not spell
 		Emu Park. Qld.        * If you live long enough
		Australia.4701.         you will die..


From xcprhb@oryx.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:41 EDT 1996
Article: 31892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 24 Jul 1996 18:56:01 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 25
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4t5rk1$7n6@lm1.oryx.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31892 sci.materials:19206 sci.engr.metallurgy:7837

This is where a call to the nearest refractory dealer comes in.  
Carbon arc furnace service is pretty severe duty and requires very
high temperature materials.

Limestone is NOT a refractory, in fact it melts at very low temperatures.
(relatively speaking for rocks;  for years no one believed in molten
 calcium carbonate until a volcano started spewing it in Africa.  It
 became VERY difficult for those who denied the existence of carbonatite
 to argue with an active carbonatite volcano :-)
(marble is simply metamorphosed limestone, there is a recrystallization
that takes place, but no significant chemical changes)

National sells several castables for service to 3400 F.  They are all very
high alumina (~99%) and very low Ca.  Ca is apparently detrimental to
the refractory properties.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

                       Consultant/Programmer 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From babcock@infi.net Sat Aug  3 11:22:43 EDT 1996
Article: 31893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 12:41:17 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <babcock.10.00D98038@infi.net>
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I tried using one of these units at a test of some robotic welding equipment 
in Sweden.  After being blinded by the first couple of arc strikes and the 
thing not working, I switched to a paper advertising shield with a thin 
plastic lens.  By the end of the day, everyone had their paper shield and the 
auto-darkening units were on the floor in the corner of the room.  I hope 
these were just bad units.  If not, there's going to be a lot of blind welders 
out there.

In article <Pine.A32.3.94.960724081304.36527B-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> David 
Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> writes:>From: David Einhorn 
<deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>>Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 08:22:20 -0400

>I'm a bit baffled on these auto-darkening helmits.  I tried one
>for a day, but had problems with it.  Admittably the problems may
>be due to my poor welding skills.

>   First off, the helmet tended 
>to strobe as the result of my having difficulty in keeping an arc.
>This tended to be a Catch-22, with the strobing and lack of arc
>contributing to each other.

>  Secondly, perhaps an engineering type
>could answer my main concern about them, speed of filter versus, 
>the speed of light.  It is difficult for me to comprehend how the 
>filter could possibly respond to the change in light level fast 
>enough to prevent at least some damaging flash to hit my eyes.
>After all, isn't the **speed-of-light**  faster than the speed of the 
>electrical components in the helmet?  It sure appeared to me that 
>the brightness increased just prior to the helmet darkening.






From frank@dsea.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:44 EDT 1996
Article: 31894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: 24 Jul 1996 20:33:04 GMT
Organization: dsea.com
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4t61a0$jtc@server.eng.dsea.com>
References: <4t1q1t$qdl@news.chatlink.com> <4t2n5f$7ct@fcnews.fc.hp.com> <fbNDhPA6qT9xEwmL@abdab.demon.co.uk> <4t5q97$a2n@robin.theramp.net>
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WRT insurance... My wife is an commercial underwriter at [ Big Ins Co ]
and has to deal with steam boiler insurance fairly often.  Her uncle
is a division manager at [ Big Ins Co 2 ] in the steam boiler area.
He maintains his steam boiler certifications and has plenty of 
interesting stories.

Steam boilers can maim and kill plenty of people, demolish buildings, 
etc., when either poorly maintained, or used incorrectly.  In today's
disgustingly litigous world, I'd be hard pressed even to be assocaited
with an organization that even had a steam boiler in the past.

Be sure you have a good insurance agent and underwriter if you plan
to use a home-built steam boiler.  The most stunning lawsuits are
filed for tenuous, or even totally bogus, reasons.  Just a few true
stories would make you vomit and cry...




From fdmorrison@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:45 EDT 1996
Article: 31895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: fdmorrison@aol.com (Fdmorrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Heavy Line Shafting and Countershafting
Date: 24 Jul 1996 19:03:26 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have source for some 3 in. lineshaft (15 to 20 ft. flange-ended sects.
w/3 to 4 ft dia. pulleys, 6 to 20 in. wide) and 8 to 12  heavy counter
shafts (run & idle pulleys to machine).  All complete with hangers, down
and ready to move.  Located central Massachusetts.  Please E-mail for
details if at all interested.

     Frank Morrison
     Fitchburg, MA, USA
     Fdmorrison@aol.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:46 EDT 1996
Article: 31896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ice cream parlor chairs
Date: 24 Jul 1996 23:29:01 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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I'd go to a few antique stores and ask them
where to get reproductions.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From anvil@iap.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:22:47 EDT 1996
Article: 31897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Charcoal Forge Flue enquiry
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 10:24:53 +1000
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I have a industrial charcoal forge,that needs to be flued. I am interested to 
hear from other people with a charcoal  forge with regard to the dimensions 
and a descriptionof their flueing system. And how they stop the soot- fly ash 
>from  being blown up the chimney and setting fire to the neighborhood.
I didnt understand how coke or coal forges didnt have a similar problem until 
I saw my mates in Melbourne.There was  hardly any soot-fly ash at all.

In the summer here in Perth on the property that I am on there is definately 
a hire fire risk. I simply can not afford to have that problem arise. So at the 
moment the forge spews into the inside of my shed and creates a bit of a mess. 
All comments appreciated

Colin Morton  anvil@iap.net.au


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:49 EDT 1996
Article: 31898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sticky steel???
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 03:16:04 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
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On 22 Jul 1996 20:14:02 -0700, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
wrote:

>I'm working on some 8-inch diameter rings that I've cut from a 
>piece of 1-inch-thick steel plate. The plate came from the 
>scrapyard so I don't know what it is....

Sence from what you describe it doesn't look as as if you are dealing
with a steel that has hard spots you could assume uniform composition.
I think that I would try a .015 - .025 radius in carbide, a softer
grade, at somewhere aroud 150 - 250 sfpm and mineral lard oil. Neutral
back rake 4-6 degrees front, radius and side and let her rip. Speed is
the key, you get to the point where you are almost burnishing your
finish. Smokes like hell though with the lard oil... sometimes called
"plumbers" mineral lard oil...light gold in color.... allows
absolutely trouble free machining in both copper and stainless using
HSS.... mostly non-toxic. I love the stuff. 
Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:50 EDT 1996
Article: 31899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.renewable.energy,sci.energy,sci.energy.hydrogen
Subject: Re: Stirling VS Piston Steam?, etc.
Date: 24 Jul 1996 23:34:11 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 9
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I've now forgotten the original question but there is a dimensioned
diagram in the James Rizzo book, The Stirling Engine Manual", on
page 10, figure 1.25.  I'd guess anyone could make such a
unit on the basis of that one drawing.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus 



From mfolenta@pica.army.mil Sat Aug  3 11:22:51 EDT 1996
Article: 31900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mike@lori.pica.army.mil (Mike Folenta)
Subject: Re: Sherline mill question
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: lori.pica.army.mil
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:30:57 GMT
Lines: 18



   Bob,

     You can check the Sherline web page at, umm, 
 http://www.electriciti.com/sherline/

     You can also check out Harvey racing engines web
 page at http://www.hre.com/.  They/he have some good
 things to say about the Sherline stuff.

  By the way, do I know you???

-- 
       ***** These are my opinions.  Get your own. :-) *****
      Michael Folenta          | U.S. Army ARDEC
 Concepts and Analysis Branch  | Picatinny Arsenal, NJ 07806-5000
  email mfolenta@pica.army.mil | (201) 724-3257  [DSN 880-3257]


From soltherm@chatlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:52 EDT 1996
Article: 31901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.chatlink.com!news
From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 07:47:30 GMT
Organization: isc
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Went to the library and was suprised they had Mother Earth News in
stock back twenty years. Never know what you'll find till you look.

Plumbing the Solar Furnace was ok. One can build such a device
for a pittence. Get about 4-6 kW thermal apparently from 100 sqft
reflective. Not too shabby. Very vague reference to "building the
steam engine will be in future issues". Does anyone know if that ever
happened???

Build a Solar Tracker was excellento. $65 or less to build one
for this heliostat. I definately plan to utilyze somewhat this design.
Don't have to design one myself, pretty much...

One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
on how to do this conversion or another type...?

Check out my site at  http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/

I'm doing inexpensive solar thermal electric systems, except using
solar troughs..

cheers,
dsg 




From rcook@BIX.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:53 EDT 1996
Article: 31902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bamboo??
Date: 25 Jul 1996 10:38:28 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Edward Haas wrote:
>	Hi, gang; I've got this problem: I'm trying to lop off some thin 
>slices of bamboo, maybe 1/8in. thick and 2 to 3in. o.d. The trouble is 
>that the stuff sort of comes apart, particularly the "bark" on the 
>outside. Can someone suggest a way to cut this that won't disturb the 
>material a whole lot?? Does anyone have an idea of how to stabilize the 
>material so that it won't fray??

Ed, is the bamboo green or dried? Green is pretty easy to cut. Dried  is
harder.

If it's dried use a saw with very fine teeth like a dovetail saw or a
gent's saw.

--RC


From eleebad@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:54 EDT 1996
Article: 31903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eleebad@aol.com (Eleebad)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TIG questions
Date: 25 Jul 1996 07:18:47 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I am considering the purchase of a TIG unit to hook to my 230/140 AC/DC
welder and have some basic questions.Can I weld dissimilar materials such
as cast iron and mild steel, or cast iron and stainless with this set-up.
Also re: aluminum, mag, copper - is this a functional set up or must I
also have a high frequency unit. Thanks.


From slrsystems@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:55 EDT 1996
Article: 31904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: slrsystems@aol.com (SLRSystems)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: 25 Jul 1996 09:58:20 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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We use carbide circular saw blades designed for non-ferrous metal.  Cost
about $20-$50 depending on the size of the blade.  We've used them in
table as well as hand saws with good results.  Also used the standard jig
saw blades if you have a heavy duty saw or just a little cutting to do. 
The cheap single speed saws seem to bounce around a lot.  The thickness of
the metal determine how fast the blade should go.

Both blades were purchased at our local hardware store.  Just look for the
non-ferrous carbide blade.  It really doesn't seem to matter for the jig
saw blade.

P.S.  When using the carbide blade especially on a table saw, watch out
for flying particles and carbide tips.  I have several embedded in the
shop wall.  Faceshield and heavy apron a must!!!



Rodney Stockton
SLR Systems
3100 George Washington Way
Richland, WA 99352-1663
phone (509) 375-1787
fax (509) 375-4825
email slrsystems@aol.com


From tcarter@csir.co.za Sat Aug  3 11:22:57 EDT 1996
Article: 31905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!iol!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!pipex-sa.net!iafrica.com!und.ac.za!peacenjoy.mikom.csir.co.za!csir.co.za!tcarter
From: tcarter@csir.co.za (Tim Carter)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 14:38:02 Local
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In article <31F60E2C.CF3@uniface.nl> Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl> writes:
>From: Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl>
>Subject: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:51:08 +0200

>Is it possible to weld copper, brass, aluminum or stainless steel
>on an ordinary 150 amps electric welder ?
>And, if yes,  which elctrodes do you need ?

>Thanks, 

>Klaas

Hi Klaas,

Stainless steel, yes. Use matching filler, your welding supplier can help.

Aluminium, no, needs TIG or MIG with continuous HF.

Copper. Hmmm. Maybe, the problem is that the weld pool freezes awful quick 
because of the high thermal conductivity. You need lots of power. We managed 
it with MIG. Never tried with a "normal" welder.

good luck

tim carter

"My opinions are my own."



From topmind@primenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:58 EDT 1996
Article: 31906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.mathworks.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!not-for-mail
From: topmind@primenet.com (Stephen Rosenthal)
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Date: 25 Jul 1996 09:48:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) wrote:

>Went to the library and was suprised they had Mother Earth News in
>stock back twenty years. Never know what you'll find till you look.

>Plumbing the Solar Furnace was ok. One can build such a device
>for a pittence. Get about 4-6 kW thermal apparently from 100 sqft
>reflective. Not too shabby. Very vague reference to "building the
>steam engine will be in future issues". Does anyone know if that ever
>happened???

>Build a Solar Tracker was excellento. $65 or less to build one
>for this heliostat. I definately plan to utilyze somewhat this design.
>Don't have to design one myself, pretty much...

>One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
>generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
>on how to do this conversion or another type...?

>Check out my site at  http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/

>I'm doing inexpensive solar thermal electric systems, except using
>solar troughs..

>cheers,
>dsg 

All plans are contained in issues 55,56 and 57. First article was in
issue 52.




From topmind@primenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:22:59 EDT 1996
Article: 31907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.mathworks.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!not-for-mail
From: topmind@primenet.com (Stephen Rosenthal)
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Date: 25 Jul 1996 10:02:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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>One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
>generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
>on how to do this conversion or another type...?
Lindsay had a book regarding conversions of compressors and engines
to steam, don't know if the still do though.
I have a catalog from 
Steam Power Products
P.O. Box 5982
Tallahassee, FL 32301
They did produce three models of steam turbines 
1 3/4 hp      295.00
5  hp            495.00
10 hp           695.00
The postmark is 1986, so don't know if they're still around, but it's
worth a shot, also might try
http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/reeves/books.htm

>Check out my site at  http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/

>I'm doing inexpensive solar thermal electric systems, except using
>solar troughs..

>cheers,
>dsg 






From redrok@pclink.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:00 EDT 1996
Article: 31908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.mathworks.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!news.protocom.com!news.pclink.com!not-for-mail
From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Message-ID: <31F8331F.16A2@pclink.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 19:53:19 -0700
References: <4t77ah$pt4@news.chatlink.com> <4t88g1$jbq@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>
Organization: Red Rock Energy
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Stephen Rosenthal wrote:
> 
> soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) wrote:
> 
> >Went to the library and was suprised they had Mother Earth News in
> >stock back twenty years. Never know what you'll find till you look.
> 
> >Plumbing the Solar Furnace was ok. One can build such a device
> >for a pittence. Get about 4-6 kW thermal apparently from 100 sqft
> >reflective. Not too shabby. Very vague reference to "building the
> >steam engine will be in future issues". Does anyone know if that ever
> >happened???
> 
> >Build a Solar Tracker was excellento. $65 or less to build one
> >for this heliostat. I definately plan to utilyze somewhat this design.
> >Don't have to design one myself, pretty much...
> 
> >One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
> >generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
> >on how to do this conversion or another type...?
> 
> >Check out my site at  http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/
> 
> >I'm doing inexpensive solar thermal electric systems, except using
> >solar troughs..
> 
> >cheers,
> >dsg
> 
> All plans are contained in issues 55,56 and 57. First article was in
> issue 52. 
-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From redrok@pclink.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:02 EDT 1996
Article: 31909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.iag.net!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!mr.net!news.mr.net!news.protocom.com!news.pclink.com!not-for-mail
From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Message-ID: <31F83CCB.2C45@pclink.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:34:35 -0700
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Stephen Rosenthal wrote:
> 
> soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) wrote:
> 
> >Went to the library and was suprised they had Mother Earth News in
> >stock back twenty years. Never know what you'll find till you look.
> 
> >Plumbing the Solar Furnace was ok. One can build such a device
> >for a pittence. Get about 4-6 kW thermal apparently from 100 sqft
> >reflective. Not too shabby. Very vague reference to "building the
> >steam engine will be in future issues". Does anyone know if that ever
> >happened???
> 
> >Build a Solar Tracker was excellento. $65 or less to build one
> >for this heliostat.

The articles in Mother Earth News are not describing "Heliostats".
They are describing concentrating solar collectors. The 100 square
foot of mirrors reflect light to a receiver that is directly
inline with the mirrors and the sun. Heliostat collector systems
can reflect light to receivers that are not inline with the sun.

The main advantage of the heliostat collectors is the receiver can be
placed in almost any location even locations quite remote from the
location of the mirrors.

With this ability to reflect light to remote locations there is a
price to pay. The tracker for heliostats is considerably more
complicated than the simple tracker used for normal concentrating
collectors even if you track in two axis.
 
> >I definately plan to utilyze somewhat this design.
> >Don't have to design one myself, pretty much...

I think this design is one of the best I have ever seen. It is easy
to build. It uses mirrors that are inexpensive (less than $1.00).
The design is highly scaleable. 

The mirrors are easily adjustable individually using the special tool
that is described. The adjustment tool and the mirror stalk is elegant
in its simplisity.

This design was the one that got me started in high performance
solar collector systems.
 
> >One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
> >generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
> >on how to do this conversion or another type...?
> 
> >Check out my site at  http://www.chatlink.com/~soltherm/
> 
> >I'm doing inexpensive solar thermal electric systems, except using
> >solar troughs..
> 
> >cheers,
> >dsg
> 
> All plans are contained in issues 55,56 and 57. First article was in
> issue 52.

-- 
CUL8ER

Duane C. Johnson
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From allen.chris.ca@bhp.com.au Sat Aug  3 11:23:03 EDT 1996
Article: 31910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!news.bhp.com.au!news.itmel.bhp.com.au!usenet
From: Chris Allen <allen.chris.ca@bhp.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 26 Jul 1996 03:18:38 GMT
Organization: BHP Steel LPD
Lines: 31
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Don't want to spoil the party but this could KILL or MAIM if not handled carefully. 
Water and hot metal in inexperienced hands join to make extremely nasty explosions.

-----------------------------------------------
All opinions here are mine, not my company's.

Chris Allen     allen.chris.ca@bhp.com.au 
Senior Project Geologist   BHP Steel LPD, Whyalla SA  5600 Australia
Lance Ryan <ryanl@topaz.cqu.edu.au> wrote:

>C++ Freak wrote:
>> 
>> I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
>> I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and another
>> rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
>> In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") diameter
>> and put some iron into it.
snip
>> glassy traces of melting (mp 2700 C). Not an option either. I might try
>> marble which I don't have at the moment which is more 'solid' CaCO3.
>> Graphite itself cannot be used as some metals dissolve the carbon.
>> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
>> melt of vaporize too quickly ?
>> 
> Implying this to your 
>process one cold suggest that  you immerse your crucible in a water tub 
>and provide enough area so as to obtain an interface of powdered iron to 
>molten iron.(maybe)

snip



From JimA@ampthill.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:23:04 EDT 1996
Article: 31911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim A <JimA@ampthill.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 00:55:56 +0100
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In article <tcarter.34.000C5D7B@csir.co.za>, Tim Carter
<tcarter@csir.co.za> writes
>In article <31F60E2C.CF3@uniface.nl> Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl> 
>writes:
>>From: Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl>
>>Subject: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
>>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:51:08 +0200
>
>>Is it possible to weld copper, brass, aluminum or stainless steel
>>on an ordinary 150 amps electric welder ?
>>And, if yes,  which elctrodes do you need ?
>
>>Thanks, 
>
>>Klaas
>
>Hi Klaas,
>
>Stainless steel, yes. Use matching filler, your welding supplier can help.
>
>Aluminium, no, needs TIG or MIG with continuous HF.
>
>Copper. Hmmm. Maybe, the problem is that the weld pool freezes awful quick 
>because of the high thermal conductivity. You need lots of power. We managed 
>it with MIG. Never tried with a "normal" welder.
>
>good luck
>
>tim carter
>
>"My opinions are my own."
________________________________________________________________________
For copper you need TIG, with helium as the shield gas if it is heavy
gauge.  Light gauge copper is easier done with acetylene.

Don't bother even attempting brass, the zinc will boil off and it will
be brass no longer!

-- 
With Best Regards
Jim A.


From kjhansen@alaska.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:05 EDT 1996
Article: 31912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kevin J. Hansen" <kjhansen@alaska.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:23:43 -0800
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
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Mitchell Burko wrote:

> I'm interested in opinions of Sherline mills.

I've had my mill and lathe for several months and am very pleased.  I 
did screw up by not buying the deluxe mill, which has zero adjustable 
handwheels and an etched scale on the tables.  Makes it much easier to 
keep track of your whereabouts on long cuts!

These are small machines, so you have to take light cuts 'cause they 
don't have the rigidity of the big machines.  Still, you can do plenty 
of useful things if you keep this in mind.  

Figure on several hundred dollars for tooling in addition to the machine 
itself; vise, mills, collets and/or 3/8" mill adapter, dial indicator 
for truing things up, etc, etc.  It certainly adds up quickly.  If you 
get (or have) a lathe you can make many of the accessories yourself.

For the money you can't go wrong on Sherline for this size of machine.

Kevin


From soltherm@chatlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:06 EDT 1996
Article: 31913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 06:43:02 GMT
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I got a catalog from a person who makes real nice plans for steam
engines, built entirely from bar stock. One uses piston/cylinders
>from  an auto. Need only 9" lathe or bigger.

A lot of his engines he says use wood lag. I assume that this for
the O-Rings. Could someone clarify?

I have heard of using leather for the piston seal, but wood is a new
one to me.

Will wooden O-Rings LAST?

Also, can someone comment on what amount the O-Rings
need to be lubricated?

How much oil gets into the exhaust steam. I don't suppose
the condesate is pottable.

Help appreciated.

dsg 

Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?



From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:23:07 EDT 1996
Article: 31914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Thompson <thompson@psy.fsu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mother Earth News: $300 heliostat-no steam engine plans
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:45:32 -0400
Organization: Florida State University
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Stephen Rosenthal wrote:
> 
> >One person said they built one, and ran a converted air compressor/
> >generator to get 4 kWe. Does ANYBODY have any information
> >on how to do this conversion or another type...?
> Lindsay had a book regarding conversions of compressors and engines
> to steam, don't know if the still do though.
> I have a catalog from
> Steam Power Products
> P.O. Box 5982
> Tallahassee, FL 32301
> They did produce three models of steam turbines
> 1 3/4 hp      295.00
> 5  hp            495.00
> 10 hp           695.00
> The postmark is 1986, so don't know if they're still around, but it's
> worth a shot, also might try<snip>
They are not listed in the current Tallahassee phone book....I never 
even knew they were here !

-- 
Ron Thompson
http://mailer.fsu.edu/~rthompso/ron-page.html
Psychology Dept.                | Voice 904-644-4718  fax 904-644-7739
Florida State University        | Amateur Radio N4FHO
Tallahassee,  FL 32306-1051     | member Florida Flywheelers


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Sat Aug  3 11:23:08 EDT 1996
Article: 31915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:26:05 -0400
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There are CAD reviews in this month's issue of Fine Woodworking, 
available at large newsstands.  It seemed nicely written, though
oriented towards those designing homes.





From CJGJ59A@prodigy.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:09 EDT 1996
Article: 31916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Art Devonshire)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: test
Date: 26 Jul 1996 15:33:27 GMT
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ÿØÿà



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:11 EDT 1996
Article: 31917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline mill question
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:58:57 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 30
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In <Dv2EBM.HI9@pica.army.mil> mike@lori.pica.army.mil (Mike Folenta)
writes: 
>
>
>
>   Bob,
>
>     You can check the Sherline web page at, umm, 
> http://www.electriciti.com/sherline/
>
>     You can also check out Harvey racing engines web
> page at http://www.hre.com/.  They/he have some good
> things to say about the Sherline stuff.

Just a minor point, Our web address is just http://hre.com/ No need for
the www before hre. ( SOme browsers won't find us if you add www.)

We also have gotten in some of the SHERLINE/VALENITE tools and from our
preliminary tests, this is really the way to go. Finishes on CRS that
looks like a mirror single pass. Excellent tool life ( naturally with
VALENITE inserts ) and typical SHERLINE quality.

I'll try to get some photos up soon at the web site. If anyone is
interested further, they can email me at 

jim@hre.com

Thanks

Jim Harvey


From dc@afn.org Sat Aug  3 11:23:12 EDT 1996
Article: 31918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: dc@afn.org (David J. Campbell Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Screws for Bridgeport type mill
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:48:26 -0500
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In article <31F008F7.1982@digitech.hiline.net>, Tim Briggs
<tbriggs@digitech.hiline.net> wrote:

>I am looking for some ball screw retrofits for a Bridgeport type milling 
>machine.  I saw some in a catalog once but can't remember where.  Any 
>information would be appreciated.

have you looked in the "Thomas Registers" under screws, ball, and
ballscrews yet?...yoou'll probably only find about 500 to q thousand
manufacturer/suppliers of em there, most w/toll-free 8700 numbers...

dave

-- 
FULL QUOTEBACKS of _both_ our texts, and Emailed replies posts will get best response! -=- My fax number is 352 376-9929 (& faxes incoming midnight to 7 AM EST work best!) I'm in Gainesville, north central Florida. Where are _you_ located, please?                                         Thanks,  Dave


From lisaclisac@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:13 EDT 1996
Article: 31919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lisaclisac@aol.com (Lisaclisac)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machine Varnish????
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:11:25 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have a couple of OBI presses that have some unpainted areas (like the
milled outer edges of the flywheel, and the crank, etc.). Is there some
kind of varnish for steel or other protective coating (especially for rust
prevention) that can be used where painting is not desired in places like
these? Any comments are most appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Mike

Lisac Ltd.
email:  lisaclisac@aol.com


From stingwcw95@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:14 EDT 1996
Article: 31920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stingwcw95@aol.com (StingWCW95)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal alloying furnace
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:09:30 -0400
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Does anyone have any plans on building a furnace that uses charcoal to
melt brass, copper, silver, aluminum, and pot metal? If so, please e-mail
it to me. Also, will plaster of paris work for casting brass, silver, or
copper?


Corwin
StingWCW95@aol.com
I'm not the wrestler or singer Sting.


From JAMES.E.SCHMIDT-FREE.MAN@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:15 EDT 1996
Article: 31921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: JAMES SCHMIDT <JAMES.E.SCHMIDT-FREE.MAN@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Screws for Bridgeport type mill
Date: 27 Jul 1996 02:22:18 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <4tbugq$3ci@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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To: dc@afn.org

There is an outfit in Illinois called Cardinal Engineering in Cameron IL 
that has CNC kits for b-port type mills, and will sell ball screws. 
Contact them at RT1, PO Box 163, 61423. They are home shop and hobbyist 
oriented. Another source is ah-ha! Design Group at (612) 641-1797. Don't 
know either's quality, but worth checking out Good luck. JS



From soltherm@chatlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:16 EDT 1996
Article: 31922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg)
Newsgroups: sci.physics,alt.energy.renewable,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr
Subject: Small Solar Quest. got 6F in 60secs, V=125ml:BTUs?
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 01:18:53 GMT
Organization: isc
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I have a small solar trough concentrator. I lamp-blacked the
absorbition tube that sits at the linear focus of the trough.
I then passed 125mL of water through the absorbtion tube,
with full sun focused on the tube.

In 60 seconds and raised the 125ml of water 6 degrees Farenheit.

Could someone be so kind as to tell me how many BTU's I collected
and how would this relate to BTU's per hour.

thanx
dsg
http://www,chatlink.com/~soltherm/


Small Solar Quest. got 6F in 60secs, V=125ml:BTUs?




From nclrman@exis.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:18 EDT 1996
Article: 31923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nclrman@exis.net (Bob)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Milli-amp or pulse tig ??
Date: 27 Jul 1996 04:31:19 GMT
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Wow! A very interesting group.
Perhaps someone can assist me in my search. I need tig capabilities
for thin, 1/16" to 1/8", thick cres and ms. Years ago, when I welded 
for a living, I occasionally used a milli-amp tig and a pulse tig
machine. Any suggestions will be gladly accepted. Currently I've 
only got AC smaw.
                                    Thanks, Bob
                                   nclrman@exis.net



From myzr@ldl.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:19 EDT 1996
Article: 31924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: took me 25 years to figure this one out!
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:14:27 -0700
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Lines: 34
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Jim Janecek wrote:
> 
> In article <425KqCAuO$8xEwp6@abdab.demon.co.uk>, Charles Lamont
> <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> > JHrisoulas writes
> >
> > >generic type of cat litter (the unscented stuff)
> >
> > This is "fuller's earth", I believe.
> > --
> > Charles
> 
> "Fuller's Earth" is an all-encompassing term for any type of diamtomaceous
> earth.  They are normally clays and clay-like compounds.
> However the term "Fuller's Earth" is normally not used for cat-litter
> sized particles.
> It is used for the more powdery versions.
> 
> "Fuller's Earth" is used to thicken paint and as a base for some cosmetics.
> It is also used as filtering media for pools.
> 
> In LA, a 50# bag can be obtained for about $15.
> In chicago, the same bag costs about $120 (if you can find it)
> 
> Unless you're in LA, the cat litter is cheaper and easier to obtain.
> 
> --
> Jim Janecek

Cat litter is actually Gawga Clay (they're digging our state up and 
shipping it all over the world)...the same substance is found in Oil-Dri 
or Speedy-Dri for about 3 bucks a bag...I've slow-cooled many a piece of 
fresh welded cast iron in a 5-gal bucjet of the stuff....


From demirj@husc.harvard.edu Sat Aug  3 11:23:20 EDT 1996
Article: 31925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demirj <demirj@husc.harvard.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS.Christen Drill Grinder
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:02:26 -0400
Organization: Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lines: 13
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 Metal Cabinets. Made for the smallest Burgmaster Turret drill
with a drawer and a pump.$50

 One metal cabinet made by DU-All for surface plate,
size 22"x22"x28 high,(also it could be used as a bench for a 
bench model drill press) $30.  

 12"Wilder comparator with surface illuminator (1942 Mil. spec)$700.

 Christen  05-10 drill grinding machine capacity 
 .016 to .375 Swiss made $600.with Diamond wheel.




From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:23:21 EDT 1996
Article: 31926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Letter Patterns
Message-ID: <1996Jul24.081601.24285@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 24 Jul 96 08:16:01 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <31F508A1.82B@crane.navy.mil>, "Douglas P. Terrell" <dterrell@crane.navy.mil> writes:
|>Folks,
|>
|>I have a couple of questions:
|>
|>1) What is the address for the FAQ?

Anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal directory.  Or, indirectly via
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From abrasha@abrasha.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:22 EDT 1996
Article: 31927 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:08:38 -0700
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>
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Aaaaarrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!

There is that name again, ... McMaster-Carr.  I had heard about them as a good place to 
do business with, so I called them for a catalogue.

What is it with these jerks?  After literally several months of calling for the damned 
thing I can't seem to wrestle one away from them.  Are they made of gold?

Every place I have ever called has been more than happy to send me one, and I do 
business with ALL of them, because they all have good deals on something or other at 
different times.

McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a penny of business, 
because of the way they treat potential customers.

I hope this note somehow gets to someone over there.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From after5studio@voyager.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:23 EDT 1996
Article: 31928 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: suzette perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roger Weppelman/Thanks!
Date: 24 Jul 1996 15:23:06 GMT
Organization: after 5 studio
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------------------101962059918075
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I don't suppose you have a manual for that shaper? I have one I bought a 
few months ago. I would pay for a copy if you have one. 

																														Thanks,
																														Brian Perry
																														after5studio@voyager.net


---------------------------------101962059918075
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Roger Weppelman/Thanks!
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 21:37:39 -0500
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
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Roger:

Thanks for the feedback on the timing of my Atlas 7" Shaper.  I removed 
the crank disc, turned it 180 degrees and replaced it.  Now when I put 
the slide nut on the "R" side of the disc and set the lever on the 
ratchet housing to "R", the table advances to the right on the return 
and/or idle stroke of the Ram.

I tried to reply via email using my automatic reply mode but the mail 
was returned as undeliverable.  The last 3 letters on your address show 
as .exe?  

Thanks again,

George

---------------------------------101962059918075--


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sat Aug  3 11:23:25 EDT 1996
Article: 31929 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: 24 Jul 1996 15:46:18 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <4t5gga$erj@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

Although in general there are no laws regulating hobby boilers,
the accepted practice for Live Steam hobbyists seems to be:

1) Design using suitable materials within ASME
   temperature recommendations.

   This typically means no copper over ~200 psi or so.  Folks
   building superheaters know to keep steel pipe under 800 F to
   avoid quick failures.  

   This info is available in various engineering handbooks...

   This also implies careful design to avoid "hot spots" and
   undercooled areas under all operating conditions including
   no steam flow, full safety discharge, etc.

2) Fabricate using proper joint design to avoid strength & corrosion
   problems... again the boiler code is your friend here when building
   with steel...

3) Initial pressure test to at least 2x max operating pressure.  You can do much
   more than this if you wish and your design has sufficient safety factors...

4) Subsequent yearly pressure tests to 1.5 x max operating pressure with 
   visual inspection.

Small boilers (esp. water tube) have tremendous advantages in safety over the
old large fire tube designs, but there's no substitute for constant care.


- Bart (who fired his new boiler for the Otter (see home page) last weekend
        for the first time).

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From dburnard@adobe.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:26 EDT 1996
Article: 31930 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dburnard@adobe.com (Dave Burnard)
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Message-ID: <dburnard-2407960941340001@caddo.sea.adobe.com>
Sender: usenet@adobe.com (Times USENET news)
Organization: Adobe Systems
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b4
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 08:41:34 GMT
Lines: 32

In article <4snmin$nid@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, ernieleim@aol.com
(ErnieLeim) wrote:

> In response to your original request for large anvils.
> 
> I make them. I have a reliable process for making solid steel anvils of
> any size up to 700 lbs. for $3 per lb.
> You design the anvil in length height, width of face, length and taper of
> horn and gross weight.
> The whole process is described in a web article I wrote for this
> newsgroup's web page.
> 
> Best of luck
> @}---------------------------------------------------{@
>                     Ernie Leimkuhler                                      
> 
>                   Stagesmith Productions                                  
>                                           
>                  Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
>                
> *    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
>                         Renton, WA                                        
>    
> *    "Death is like being on holiday with
>           a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
> @}------------------------------------------------------{@

Please send us a pointer to that page!

Thanks,

DaveB


From jmg@dorsai.org Sat Aug  3 11:23:27 EDT 1996
Article: 31931 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill Drill Recommedations
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 19:48:17 GMT
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy, Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4t5k35$59m@kensie.dorsai.org>
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jimkw@rmii.com (Jim Kwiecien) wrote:

>I apologize for asking something that's probably been asked before, but:  I'm thinking about buying
>a mill drill machine.  Grizzley, Enco, MSC, and Jet (and probably some others) all have machines 
>that look the same but with considerable variation in price.  Does anyone have any good/bad things
>to say about machines from the various suppliers?  Is there really any difference in quality or 
>support between MSC and Grizzley?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have an old model Jet  that I've been very happy with. My experience
with some of the lesser imports in other tools is that if you want a
tight machine, don't do it. My harbor freight band saw works, but is
cranky and noisy. On the other hand it was definitely cheap. MSC has a
reputation for carrying quality goods, as does Grizzly to a lesser
extent.

 I'll also share a trick with you, buy a cheap digital caliper and
mill blocks to attach its jaws to the quill and frame. It makes
accurate downfeeding a breeze with no subtractions or counting
rotations!.

Jon
Jon Gellman Designs		Prototypes, products and effects	      
New York, NY				   email: jmg@dorsai.org



From jesw@mitre.org Sat Aug  3 11:23:28 EDT 1996
Article: 31932 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Letter Patterns
Date: 24 Jul 1996 16:39:13 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 13
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References: <31F508A1.82B@crane.navy.mil>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> 2) Where could a person find letter patterns, I'm wanting to cast
> replica builders plates for a train locomotive and I need the basic
> letters for the patterns.

For 2D letters, check out dry transfer rub-ons, PC board decals, or
Macintosh fonts.  I'm not sure if bare rub-on letters will work as an etch
resist but you could trace over them with a laundry marker.  

Sign or gravestone makers might be able to generate 3D raised lettering.

If not, maybe the rubber stencil for gravestone lettering could be put on
backwards before sandblasting the letters, and you could mold a negative
impression and then file off the rough top of the lettering.


From babcock@infi.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:30 EDT 1996
Article: 31933 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Titanium
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:07:47 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <babcock.11.00F1C4F7@infi.net>
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I received some literature and a vidio from this company that specializes in 
deburring applications using robotic systems.  They may be able to help.

Assurance Technologies
919-772-0115

In article <4t32nb$k51@newsbf02.news.aol.com> slrsystems@aol.com (SLRSystems) 
writes:>From: slrsystems@aol.com (SLRSystems)
>Subject: Re: Machining Titanium
>Date: 23 Jul 1996 13:38:51 -0400

>My customer doesn't know how hard the titanium is except to say that they
>go through 6-7 carbide end mills per 14"  turbine blade.  I'm a
>chemist/roboticist, not a metalurgist or even a machinist but my
>impression is that this is definitely hard.  Any idea how fast the silicon
>carbide stones wear?

>Thanks in advance for any help.

>Rodney

>Rodney Stockton
>SLR Systems
>3100 George Washington Way
>Richland, WA 99352-1663
>phone (509) 375-1787
>fax (509) 375-4825
>email slrsystems@aol.com



From john@siu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:23:31 EDT 1996
Article: 31934 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microtome Sharpener?
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 12:26:43 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 13
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Right, now if I could just get them to put a second slice on my sandwich!

John

On 19 Jul 1996, CBear81438 wrote:

> This machine was discontinued in use by the medical industry, but it was
> picked up and used extensively in the fast food industry for slicing Roast
> Beef.
> 
> Cecil in OK
> 
> 


From jombi@microserve.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:32 EDT 1996
Article: 31935 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "N. S. A." <jombi@microserve.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Etching...
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:29:45 -0400
Organization: Microserve Information Systems (800)-380-INET
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I need any information regarding the process by which one etches metals
(most importantly brass) using a rectifier and an electrolyte.  The
process seems to be much like metal plating, except you remove the metal
>from  the workpiece.  Although any information would greatly help me, I am
most interested in the composition of the electrolyte (chemicals,
concentrations, temperature, what type of cathode should be used, ect.)




From zacford@ionet.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:33 EDT 1996
Article: 31936 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: zacford@ionet.net (Zac Crofford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Brass to Silver
Date: 19 Jul 1996 04:03:21 GMT
Organization: IONet
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	Up front, I apologize if I'm posting off-topic, but this NG seemed to 
be the best point for getting an answer to my query. . .

	I recently attained a lovely brass (I believe) pocket-watch.  It is 
very nice, and I love it dearly, but there is one problem: all my other 
chains, accessories, etc. are quite silver, and I would be much happier if it 
were also silver.  The question I pose to you is if you know of a good way 
(enameling, certain type of paint, alchemy, whatever) to transmute my lovely 
brass pocket-watch into a lovely silver pocket-watch.

				Thanks in Advance,
				Stormwind



From craigtc@theramp.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:34 EDT 1996
Article: 31937 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: craigtc@theramp.net (Craig C.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:15:05 GMT
Organization: InfoRamp, Inc.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4t5q97$a2n@robin.theramp.net>
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Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>Roger Mitchell writes

>>we did an initial hydrostatic test at 1750 PSI followed by a
>>hydrostatic test of 600 psi for 2 weeks.

>>it is operated at a working pressure of 140 PSI.

>This is crackers.  If the regulations require a pressure test at over 10
>times working pressure, then the people who drew them up are guilty of
>terminal wastefulness.  (In my not-so-humble opinion).


If you want to know the minimums for testing, then head for the
nearest university library and pull a copy of ASME B31 ( I think this
is the correct standard) and check the hydrotest and boiler
certification requirements, as well as the design requirements.
Boilers used in different applications have different test criteria. I
sure wouldn't want to be around a boiler designed for low temp steam
and the operator is pushing for superheated steam.....When in doubt on
the design err to the safe side and consult  a  P.E. with the
appropriate experience....


Craig



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:36 EDT 1996
Article: 31938 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill move, the final chapter
Message-ID: <1996Jul27.092320.919@flying-disk.com>
Date: 27 Jul 96 09:23:20 PDT
References: <4t89n8$79h@bissun.bisco.kodak.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 22

In article <4t89n8$79h@bissun.bisco.kodak.com>, 
welk@bisco.kodak.com (Steve Welk) writes:

> The interested reader will recall that as of a couple weeks ago, I
> had removed the table, saddle, head & power feed from the recently
> purchased old  Bridgeport, and was figuring out how to move the
> remainder.  Well, finally  got around to it yesterday.  Rented a
> 5'x8' trailer ($30), johnson bar ($11), borrowed a friends van ($10
> for gas), and a friends engine hoist ($0).

> once there, 3 of us rocked/walked the mill down to the basement door

> I probably saved a minimum of $400, so I'd say it was worth the effort.

Thanks for the description, and congratulations on your new toy.
However, you neglected to include the cost of the pizza and beer
for the post-move celebration.   :-)

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From after5studio@voyager.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:37 EDT 1996
Article: 31939 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: suzette perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jinan Lathe
Date: 27 Jul 1996 17:27:21 GMT
Organization: after 5 studio
Lines: 55
Message-ID: <4tdjhp$9lc@vixc.voyager.net>
References: <31f96533.25117037@news.islandnet.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------------------290703101825601
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 Rumor has it that the lathe from
>Chin Hung (or at least the castings) are made by Jinan - does anybody
>know anything about this ? If this rumor is true than why would the
>Chin Hung be so much more money - are there any other differences that
>would justify the price difference ?
>Any info is welcome.
>
>Thanks
>
>Jens

Jens,

I read an article in a business magazine about the relationship between 
Taiwan and China. It said that workers in Taiwan make about $1,200 a 
year and the ones in mainland China make about $500 a year. Also, Much 
of the assembly work for Taiwan's products is done in China. I would say 
your rumor is probably true and the price difference is due to the 
difference in labor costs.

Brian


---------------------------------290703101825601
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jinan Lathe
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:47:04 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Message-ID: <31f96533.25117037@news.islandnet.com>

I am drooling over a Jinan lathe (14*44) made in mainland China. Does
anyone out there have any first hand experience on this make ?
I also looked at a  Chin Hung which is made in Taiwan and looks almost
identical but is priced 30% higher. Rumor has it that the lathe from
Chin Hung (or at least the castings) are made by Jinan - does anybody
know anything about this ? If this rumor is true than why would the
Chin Hung be so much more money - are there any other differences that
would justify the price difference ?
Any info is welcome.

Thanks

Jens

---------------------------------290703101825601--


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:23:38 EDT 1996
Article: 31940 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brother of HF; how much to make a corpse
Date: 24 Jul 1996 21:28:53 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <darylb-2407961733300001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <96194.201612IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> <4s7ege$f6t@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu> <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com>,
Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org> wrote:

> I worked in the HF Alkane plant in richmond Cal. and the safety class we
> took talked about the dangers of HF. Hydrofluoric acid becomes more
> corrosive when mixed with water. The human body is made of primarliy
> water. They kept an ambulance on hand to take any exposed personnel to the
> hospital. The ambulance was equiped with a 400 gal water tank to irrigate
> the exposed area. The idea here was to dilute as much as possible. I will
> never knowingly work with HF without MAJOR safety precautions.
> 
> Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
>            Steve Herrick

Most acids are carried in glass containers. HF eats glass. I think that
about covers it.

Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:23:39 EDT 1996
Article: 31941 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: 24 Jul 1996 21:33:45 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <darylb-2407961738220001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <r.lee-2407961017330001@news.nantucket.net>,
r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

>  Jim,
> I use a wonderful Product aimed at Enginering users called Cadd Pro
> 
> for full details (and great links to compeeting products) see
> 
> http://www.flash.net/~cadsoft/
> 
> the Mac version has bee released and there is a Mac demo there for DL the
> Wintell version is in beta and is due this fall... this is a an incredable
> package for the price... 90% of a high end megabuck CAD package for under
> $500.
> It just flys on my Power mac 8500
snip blurb...

When you say it "flys" on a power mac is that doing 3D solids?
and if so does it do assemblies?
and if so how big/complex are your assemblies?
Does it require a floating point emulator?
What do you consider a high end megabuck package?

I'm having trouble linking to the web page!

Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From dwwilson@flash.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:41 EDT 1996
Article: 31942 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.sgi.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!excelsior.flash.net!dpm1-88.flash.net!user
From: dwwilson@flash.net (David Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG welding aluminum w/small rig
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 14:28:21 -0600
Organization: Flash-Net Internet Service Provider, 888-FLASHNET
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <dwwilson-2407961428210001@dpm1-88.flash.net>
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.8

In article <31EE3F01.4181@media.mit.edu>, Matthew Brand
<brand@media.mit.edu> wrote:

>A friend claims to have seen an artist weld aluminum with a little 120V
>MIG home welding rig.  Is this possible?

Matthew,
I do a little aluminum welding with my Millermatic 130. It's 120v MIG. My
welding supply suggested a teflon liner, but said to try it without first.
I did and it did, work that is. I've successfully welded 1/8", with Argon.
The tricky part is getting used to the rapid meltdown of the aluminum. But
the green color of the gas sure is pretty! Weld. supply also said to keep
the line straight, to keep from "birdnesting the soft wire, (.035), but I
haven't had a problem. Like I said I've only done light test, but it seems
to work fine to me, it's not for passenger aircraft anyway! Just home shop
use.

David

dwwilson@flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~dwwilson/


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:42 EDT 1996
Article: 31943 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: sci.physics,alt.energy.renewable,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr
Subject: Re: Small Solar Quest. got 6F in 60secs, V=125ml:BTUs?
Date: 27 Jul 1996 19:34:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 36
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In <4tbp92$j0l@news.chatlink.com> soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) writes: 
>
>I have a small solar trough concentrator. I lamp-blacked the
>absorbition tube that sits at the linear focus of the trough.
>I then passed 125mL of water through the absorbtion tube,
>with full sun focused on the tube.
>
>In 60 seconds and raised the 125ml of water 6 degrees Farenheit.
>
>Could someone be so kind as to tell me how many BTU's I collected
>and how would this relate to BTU's per hour.
>
>thanx
>dsg
>http://www,chatlink.com/~soltherm/
>
>
>Small Solar Quest. got 6F in 60secs, V=125ml:BTUs?
>
>

The thermal energy required to raise the temperature of 125 ml of water
6 deg. F (3.333 deg. C) is:

(.125 kg) x (3.333 deg. C) = .4167 kg-cal

(.4167 kg-cal) x (3.968 BTU / kg-cal) = 1.653 BTU

1.653 BTU in 60 sec. = 99.199 BTU/Hr = 29.074 watts


Regards to all,
Dale


 


From pdrumm@dwave.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:43 EDT 1996
Article: 31944 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes
Date: 24 Jul 1996 22:45:26 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4t6926$i4k@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au><31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au> <4t4m7l$989@news.accessone.com>
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In message <4t4m7l$989@news.accessone.com> - anvil@encryption.com (J R
Slack)24 Jul 1996 08:17:57 GMT writes:
:->
:->In article <31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au>, anvil@iap.net.au says...
:->>
:->>I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel 
:->anvil. 
:->[snip]
:->
:->What you're looking for are 'hard-facing' electrodes (sorry I can't be more 
:->specific, but I'm a blacksmith, not a welder).  You might try a welder's 
:->supply in farm country; they're used for building up worn harrow tines and the 
:->like.
:->
:->You'll want to pre-heat your anvil before doing any welding on the face. Dig a 
:->primitive fire bowl in the ground, fabricate a tuyere, build up a nice fire, 
:->and heat slowly from the base 'til spit dances on the face; drag 'er out and 
:->get busy!
:->

No, hard-facing should NOT be used on an anvil! I made that mistake
once, trying to repair a 'hole' in the face of our 300lb. anvil at
work. It welded up OK, but the first time I used it the HF shattered
like glass. I finally used "Build-up" rods, which are soft at first,
but work harden to a depth of about .040 with use. It's been holding
up for about 10 years now...

pdrumm@dwave.net
Merlin beta tester!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From alshinn@sirius.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:44 EDT 1996
Article: 31945 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp072-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sources for tiny springs?
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 15:43:35 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <alshinn-2407961543350001@ppp072-sf2.sirius.com>
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In article <Dutz5q.MG1.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>,
rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:

> I'm looking for a source for tiny compression springs for a mechanical
> model.  The springs need to have a O.D. no larger than 0.075" and a
> relaxed length of around 0.300".  I did get a few springs of that size
> from a locksmith/distributor, but they're a bit stiff for what I want.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> -- 
> Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com

I seem to remember a tiny spring in the couplers for HO guage trains.


From ernieleim@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:45 EDT 1996
Article: 31946 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Date: 24 Jul 1996 18:54:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 25
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4t69jg$637@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

dburnard@adobe.com (Dave Burnard) asked about the web URL for my article
on Anvil making.


The address is:

http://tbr.state.tn.us/%7Ewgray/howto/anvil/anvil.html

If anybody has questions about the process just e-mail me  directly , but
first go to the web page and read the article.

best of luck
@}---------------------------------------------------{@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*    "Death is like being on holiday with
          a group of germans" ---- Rimmer ( Red Dwarf )
@}------------------------------------------------------{@


From jfneumayer@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:46 EDT 1996
Article: 31947 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jfneumayer@aol.com (Jfneumayer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC Newsgroup - It's alive!!
Date: 24 Jul 1996 19:06:09 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 15
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4t6a91$6gh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <babcock.43.005E98BB@infi.net>
Reply-To: jfneumayer@aol.com (Jfneumayer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I am in a newsgroup called   ( alt.machines.cnc) .

This group is not a very active group, but a great one to belong
to if you are interested in CNC.  My understanding of the issue
of why some people can get one newsgroup, but not another, has
to do with the sheer numbers of newsgroups in general. There are
approxiately 16,000 newsgroups today.  At our work-place, we 
download only about 4,000 of the 16,000 newsgroups each night. I
am told that this takes hours of server time and all the newsgroups
can not be available for this reason.  I can get the CNC newsgroup 
through AOL, but not at my work-place.
John Neumayer
Grimes, IA
jfneumayer@aol.com
jfneumayer@dmacc.cc.ia.us


From psh@islandnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:47 EDT 1996
Article: 31948 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 12:41:59 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:

>Aaaaarrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!

>McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a penny of business, 
>because of the way they treat potential customers.

I have phoned them 4 times to get a catalog. Each time they say that
it will be sent. I have now adopted the same attitude as you - I don't
need this hassle and if they are like this 'before' they get my money,
what happens afterwards ?

>I hope this note somehow gets to someone over there.

I doubt it - and even if it did I don't think they would care !!!!


I know that some people are happy about there service so I don't know
what the story is. Maybe they have enough customers and don't really
want more ????

Jens

PS.: I gave them a company name, not just an individuals name.


From chita@adnc.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:49 EDT 1996
Article: 31949 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!taurus!news
From: chita@adnc.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Value of Unimat?
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 21:49:51 GMT
Organization: adnc.com
Lines: 7
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Reply-To: chita@adnc.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 205.216.159.87
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

   A guy owes me money and asks if I'll accept a small tool called a
Unimat (I think the box said S or L). I don't know anything about it.
It looks in good enough shape, not rusty. It has a book with it and
looks like a tool for making model ships or cars.  Has anybody heard
of it? How much can I sell it for in a reasonable time? I'd rather
have the cash but he just doesn't have it.   



From logon@my.bbs Sat Aug  3 11:23:50 EDT 1996
Article: 31950 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: logon@my.bbs (CyberTrader)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Subject: Earn $10,000+\month  Working At Home!!
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 96 07:27:19 GMT
Organization: CyberTraders
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Message-ID: <4te1fe$p67@ns1.autonet.net>
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Could YOU use an EXTRA $100, $1000, or even $10,000+
              every month, whether you work or not?!
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From conover@tiac.net Sat Aug  3 11:23:52 EDT 1996
Article: 31951 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: conover@tiac.net (Harry H Conover)
Newsgroups: sci.physics,alt.energy.renewable,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr
Subject: Re: Small Solar Quest. got 6F in 60secs, V=125ml:BTUs?
Followup-To: sci.physics,alt.energy.renewable,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr
Date: 27 Jul 1996 21:44:13 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
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dsg (soltherm@chatlink.com) wrote:
: I have a small solar trough concentrator. I lamp-blacked the
: absorbition tube that sits at the linear focus of the trough.
: I then passed 125mL of water through the absorbtion tube,
: with full sun focused on the tube.
: 
: In 60 seconds and raised the 125ml of water 6 degrees Farenheit.
: 
: Could someone be so kind as to tell me how many BTU's I collected
: and how would this relate to BTU's per hour.
: 
: thanx
: dsg
: http://www,chatlink.com/~soltherm/

        BTU/Minute = 0.125 x 2.2  x 6 = 1.65

        BTU/Hour = 1.65 x 60 = 99.

                                      Harry C.



From r.lee@windshadow.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:53 EDT 1996
Article: 31952 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 19:33:24 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <r.lee-2407961933240001@news.nantucket.net>
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In article <darylb-2407961738220001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>, darylb@bnr.ca
(darylb) wrote:


> When you say it "flys" on a power mac is that doing 3D solids?
> and if so does it do assemblies?
> and if so how big/complex are your assemblies?
> Does it require a floating point emulator?
> What do you consider a high end megabuck package?
> 
> I'm having trouble linking to the web page!

Don't know what the problem with the web page at

http://www.flash.net/~cadsoft/

might be; I link to it just fine with both netscape 2 and 3b5 gold and
cyberdog 1.0... it does use frames so you need a frames aware browser but
I don't know anyone surfing the web without one...on the mac side of the
wall anyway...

I mean that it is as fast as I need it to be on a Mac 8500/132 with 48 meg
of ram and 2 gig hard disk running system 7.5.3 and quickdraw 3D doing
solids... I give CADDPro 32 meg as its application size and I don't use
VM... I do all my design work now in the solid...   speed is allwas a
personal thing...

My models are of things like model steam engines and shop tooling I redraw
the parts of the Quorn to better understand them before I cut metal...it
has a drawing wizzard function tha outputs a 3 or 4 view drawing from the
solid that can then be dimensioned for use in the shop... it will directly
drive several SAT file compatable solid litho machines for direct solid
drawing to plastic part for prototype work (details from the Web site as I
am not involved in this)

Yes it needs floating point (but that is a part of all power PCs and I
think all Pentiums No?) as to assemblies... if you mean will it do auto
detection of part interference? not in the current version. if yo mean can
you mage the different parts and slide them arround into place to see what
something will look like... then yes I do this and assign a diferent color
to the parts to see what is going on... I have made thing with 30 -40
parts this way but it is realy not my way of working so I can not
personaly speek to it's limits in this area... the programers own the
company and are very prompt at ans. questions though...

I call anything over a grand a megabuck package... some high end stuff I
have seen goes for over 10 or 20 grand a seat.

I like it and use it... the demo version will do everything but save... if
you have acces to good preforming power mac with quick draw3D down load it
and give it try... I think thay are looking for some CAD savy beta testers
for the Wintel (dos/Win95/WinNT) version it would not hurt to toss you hat
in the ring if you use a dos machine

 I have no connection with Cadsoft other than as a customer and that I
have helped with some (unpayed) beta testing...

~R


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:54 EDT 1996
Article: 31953 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ball Turning kit:  Was:  quorn apology Another quorn w/o all the balls
Date: 24 Jul 1996 23:39:13 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4t6c71$807@news1.svc>
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I noticed in the next to last edition of Model Engineer's Workshop
that the Quorn in the picture had only 1/2 the ball handles
because the builder stated that, "they tended to get in the way."

His Quorn looked well used.

Best,

Mike Rehmus



From steve_smith@cc.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:55 EDT 1996
Article: 31954 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Flattening sheet after it was rolled?
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I made a bracelet out of sterling silver with some fairly fine wire
soldered to the surface. The wire was formed into spirals, and the hard
part was getting the spiral to lay flat for soldering. I heated the wire
up until it sagged flat on the sheet I was going to solder to.

Applying this to your sheet flattening could be tough due to uneven
heating. Maybe you could flatten pieces in an oven (over a piece of
steel/cast iron)?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From jriser@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:57 EDT 1996
Article: 31955 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!news.interactive.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-4.sprintlink.net!news.azstarnet.com!usr8ip22.azstarnet.com!user
From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
Date: 24 Jul 1996 17:00:54 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <jriser-2407961007090001@usr8ip22.azstarnet.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 169.197.9.22

In article <Pine.A32.3.94.960724081304.36527B-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>,
David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> wrote:

> I'm a bit baffled on these auto-darkening helmits.  I tried one
> for a day, but had problems with it.  Admittably the problems may
> be due to my poor welding skills.
> 
>    First off, the helmet tended 
> to strobe as the result of my having difficulty in keeping an arc.
> This tended to be a Catch-22, with the strobing and lack of arc
> contributing to each other.
> 
>   Secondly, perhaps an engineering type
> could answer my main concern about them, speed of filter versus, 
> the speed of light.  It is difficult for me to comprehend how the 
> filter could possibly respond to the change in light level fast 
> enough to prevent at least some damaging flash to hit my eyes.
> After all, isn't the **speed-of-light**  faster than the speed of the 
> electrical components in the helmet?  It sure appeared to me that 
> the brightness increased just prior to the helmet darkening.

David;
The more expensive auto-darkening filters have a delay adjustment.  This
allows you to set the delay for how long before the lens "lightens".  Mine
is cheaper and lets you adjust the level of shading only.  I've never had
any problems and think it really helps my welding quality.  FYI my filter
darkens in 1/25,000 of a second and has a fixed delay of .25 seconds to go
>from  dark to light.
Jim

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From stas@best.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:58 EDT 1996
Article: 31956 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newshub.csu.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news1.best.com!nntp1.best.com!shellx.best.com!not-for-mail
From: stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum brazing
Date: 25 Jul 1996 16:15:09 -0700
Organization: BEST Internet Communications
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4t8v5t$k47@shellx.best.com>
References: <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com> <4t8gj6$896@walters.East.Sun.COM>
NNTP-Posting-Host: shellx.best.com

In article <4t8gj6$896@walters.East.Sun.COM>,
Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering <ama@marley.East.Sun.COM> wrote:
[]
>I picked up a hole in an aluminum oil cooler on my old RX7 years back.
>I brought it to a radiator shop to be fixed and, believe it or not, they
>used some kind of plastic to patch it.  They said that it was too hard
>to try to weld or braze it because the tubing walls were too thin.


I think I recall seeing epoxies with Al filler in the MSC catalog.  The shop
may have used something along those lines.

-S


From rasjad@pacifier.com Sat Aug  3 11:23:59 EDT 1996
Article: 31957 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!psgrain!rainrgnews0!pacifier!rasjad
From: rasjad@pacifier.com (Rasjad Lints)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Old air compressor rehab
Date: 28 Jul 1996 00:53:04 GMT
Organization: Pacifier Online Data Service
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NNTP-Posting-Host: pacifier.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:31957 rec.woodworking:144681

I recently got hold of an old, greasy DeVilbiss air compressor (Model
220).  Looks like it was built before 1950.  It has an old, large 1/2 hp
GE motor. It seems to work well, producing 70 psi before the pressure
relief valve pops.  It is rated to 100 psi.  (no rating on CFM on the
specs)  I'ld like to use this to as the bases to create my own air
compressor with a tank.  My questions are; 

1) could I use a LP 5 gallon tank (new, as I don't want it full of LP
gas).  What's the psi rating on those LP tanks?  (you know, the kind
that's attached to your bar-ba-que)

2) any idea where I could get a pressure based elec switch so that it
doesn't run all of the time (ie; turn on at 85 psi, off at 90 psi).

3) where can I get another pressure relief valve (for 100 psi)

4) what kind of intake filter do I need (I do woodworking, so dust is a
real concern)

Any other advice?

Please email me as I don't read this group regularly

Rasjad
rasjad@pacifier.com
-- 
Rasjad
Vancouver, Washington
rasjad@pacifier.com


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:24:00 EDT 1996
Article: 31958 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!xmission!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 24 Jul 1996 12:27:56 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 35
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
Message-ID: <4t5tfs$nq3@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <4t0455$o64@homer.alpha.net> <4t0cbs$5sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu


In article <4t0cbs$5sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
BrnzCaster <brnzcaster@aol.com> wrote:
>In article <4t0455$o64@homer.alpha.net>, jlovallo@mixcom.com writes:
>
>> The petrobond oil was a major pain in the .... 
>
>Congratulations John on your first pours.
>You can use 30W NON-detergent motor oil for the bond oil in PetroBond and
>Aridry casting sands.
>It's been a few years since I used any PetroBond, so I've lost track of
>the Part No. If anyone is using Aridry (Borden) sand, specifiy J-82MX for
>the pre-blended mix (just J-82 is the binder).
>Winston
>--
>Winston W. Harness
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
>--
>



So if 30 non-detergent works, why can't you just get some fine sand
>from  the local sandblast supply and add the 30 wt. oil?

Is there something else in the PetroBond?


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:02 EDT 1996
Article: 31959 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Titanium
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 02:54:58 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <31f6e039.2906495@news.value.net>
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On 23 Jul 1996 13:38:51 -0400, slrsystems@aol.com (SLRSystems) wrote:

>My customer doesn't know how hard the titanium is except to say that they
I am certain that you would be able to match the various grain
structure, porosity and binding agents and ect. of in the grinding
wheel or stone to meet your needs. I think that the best thing for you
to do is to meet or talk to technical rep / engineer at C.L. Norton or
any of the other major grinding / stone manufactures for technical
details... tuitanium is very machinable when compaired to other metals
in my opinion. You are on the right track with grinding... from this
laymans perspective. Set your search engine on Norton and grinding for
there or anothers URL.

YT


Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:03 EDT 1996
Article: 31960 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Send me your CAD reviews and I'll add them to the FAQ
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:29:32 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 28
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References: <31F5651E.3233@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com> <r.lee-2407961017330001@news.nantucket.net> <darylb-2407961738220001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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I have tried several CAD systems- first Generic CAD which Iliked well enough 
but never got really good at it. Then AutoDESK (owner of AutoCAD) bout Generic 
out, and quite promptly put it out of business.

I fell for their 'upgrade' to AutoCAD-LT. I found it akward to use, and rather 
simplistic.

Then I found CADKEY. Ive got V7 for Windows and run it under Win95. I think 
its GREAT. easy to use. very powerfull, full 3D modeling ability. You 
design in 3D, then it renders the ortho views for you to dimension or detail.

Ive been using it a lot lately (to design a house addition) and have become 
very fast with it.

Cadkey has a nice education program. For students they sell it for under $200. 
This is not a 'cripple' version, its the full package, but the license is 
clear that its not for commercial use. You might be able to get it at a local 
college bookstore.

Cadkey was just bought out by a new company (Bay State technologies)  a couple 
weeks ago, so it remains to be seen how support and upgrades are handled. I 
hope they dont screw up a good thing like AutoDesk did.




Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:04 EDT 1996
Article: 31961 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC Newsgroup - It's alive!!
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 18:15:47 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <31F6CAC3.245B@ix.netcom.com>
References: <babcock.43.005E98BB@infi.net> <4t6a91$6gh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Jul 24  8:15:29 PM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Jfneumayer <jfneumayer@aol.com>

Jfneumayer wrote:
> 
> I am in a newsgroup called   ( alt.machines.cnc) .
> 
> This group is not a very active group,..........
> .......... I can get the CNC newsgroup
> through AOL, but not at my work-place.
> John Neumayer
> Grimes, IA
> jfneumayer@aol.com
> jfneumayer@dmacc.cc.ia.us

All I get through netcom/netscape is alt.machines.misc

I did get some information through Dan Mauch's pages...

Paul in AJ AZ



From myzr@ldl.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:05 EDT 1996
Article: 31962 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: [Q] Welding of nonferrous metals with ordinary arc welder
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 22:02:06 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
Lines: 32
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To: Klaas van Ditzhuyzen <klaas@uniface.nl>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:7898 rec.crafts.metalworking:31962

Klaas:
Your address seems to indicate that your are in the Netherlands and I am 
in the US:  You have not said what an "ordinary 150 Amp welder" is in the 
Netherlands, AC or DC?  Here in the US, the newer versions of "ordinary 
welder" for home shop or farm is an AC-DC unit while older welders (such 
as mine) are AC only.  Nonetheless, there are electrodes available for 
aluminum can be bought here in the US at most welding supply shops in 2-3 
lb (about 5kg) packages but they are DC only...One manufacturer is 
MG Welding Products, Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA 53051, phone 
414-255-5520  Fax 414-255-5542 (after you dial whatever it takes to get 
the US) check with _your_ supplier of welding equipment to see if you can 
obtain it locally, if not they may have a Euopean version of the same 
stuff.   Copper and Brass are not, to my knowledge, arc weldable without 
spending a _lot_ of money for high-tech equipment; this is best done with 
the torch, and your question specifies "ordinary" equipment, not 
expensive machines...If you need any further info, feel free to e-mail 
me; I have worked minor miracles with "ordinary equipment"..never could 
afford the expensive kind...

			Jack

Klaas van Ditzhuyzen wrote:
> 
> Is it possible to weld copper, brass, aluminum or stainless steel
> on an ordinary 150 amps electric welder ?
> And, if yes,  which elctrodes do you need ?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Klaas




From logsys@localnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:07 EDT 1996
Article: 31963 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: logsys@localnet.com (Mitchell Burko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 03:36:26 GMT
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felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein) wrote:

>I just got a sherline, so I don't have to do this anymore

I'm interested in opinions of Sherline mills.

 I'm starting to shop for a small and inexpensive mill. MSC (manhattan
supply co) shows a Sherline for about $500. I need cut FR4, Alum.,
brass, plastics and maybe some steel. Small fixturing projects.
Tolerances will be important.

I'm interested in hearing from people who swear by and swear at
sherline's. Any takers?

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch Burko @ Logical Systems Corporation, Syracuse NY, USA
Tel (315) 478-0722, FAX (315) 479-6753, Email: logsys@localnet.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------



From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:08 EDT 1996
Article: 31964 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: 25 Jul 1996 21:54:37 -0400
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I had a Sherline once, It looked like it should be displayed on the
dresser in the bedroom.   I couldn't see how you could do anything with
it.   Of course my regular lathe is a 16 X 60 SB,   As  a backup I have a
34 x 120 Rahn Larmon. 

Don't get the early ones, stay with the later models with the better motor
drive.

Cecil in OK


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:24:09 EDT 1996
Article: 31965 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: 24 Jul 1996 12:53:01 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 30
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/1/96
Message-ID: <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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In article <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org>,
James T. Bober <JBOBER@IDA.ORG> wrote:
>For some experiments I did years ago, which required reproducably stopping an
>accelerating mass without rebound under various conditions, I found that
>zirconium oxide was the best substance available for my application. It was
>finer and flowed and packed better than any sand I could find.
>
>Jim


I've found that my foot works best. My size 14 Red Wing boots stick
way out in front of my body, and their nice soft toe caps transfer the
impact to my toes inside. I've tested Newton's theories with various
pieces of steel bar, heavy machine tooling and miscellaneous auto
parts and can verify that they all reached the ground without damage.
The energy was all absorbed by my toes, so of course, there was no
rebound.  Part of the technique is learning to realize that an object
is in downward motion, and quickly putting your weight on one foot
while moving the other so it is underneath the object being studied.



;-)
___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:10 EDT 1996
Article: 31966 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bamboo??
Date: 24 Jul 1996 23:26:23 -0400
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Ed

Try one of those PVC pipe cutters they seem to work for a lot of cutting.


From CJGJ59A@prodigy.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:12 EDT 1996
Article: 31967 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Art Devonshire)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 25 Jul 1996 05:45:45 GMT
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Klass. Sounds like you are having fun. I think the alumina or magnesia 
based refractories should do the job for melting iron base metals. I have 
bought my small high temp crucibles at local rock hound or chemical 
laboratory supply shops. I am interested on how your arc furnace project 
turns out. I used to operate melting melting arc furnaces while I was in 
the navy. I have pacthed  and relined these furnaces many times. By the 
way a few years ago I built a very small BOF (basic oxygen furnace) to 
melt a small amount of steel. I cast a small anvil about the size of my 
thumb out of steel. I carved the anvil out of a bar of dial soap. I 
rammed the mold up in sand. I took a small crucible and put in three bars 
of drill rod, a half inch in dia & six inches long. Then I took a oxy-
acetylene torch and the drill rod to about 1500F ,at that temp I squeezed 
the oxygen lever on the torch. This melted the steel (a lot of slag) upto 
about 3000F. I skimmed the slag back and stirred in the deoxidizers, a 
small amount of ferro silicon,ferro manganese and pure aluminum. The 
small steel anvil turned out gas free. The carbon content went from 90 
points down to 50 points.                                    Art       
San diego



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:24:13 EDT 1996
Article: 31968 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need special metric screws
Date: 24 Jul 1996 16:47:21 -0700
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I'm looking for some metric machine screws:

oval head
phillips
5mm x .8
by 50 mm long (the hard part)

I can find 30mm ones. I've tried all the obvious sources including
Metric Speicalties in Burbank, CA. Anyone have a source? THANKS!!
___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From rnichols@interaccess.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:14 EDT 1996
Article: 31969 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline mill question
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 02:17:12 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <Dv2uCo.20w.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
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In article <felice.141.31F4FD48@pioneer.net>,
Felice Luftschein <felice@pioneer.net> wrote:
:Well, having asked the same questions that you asked, I bought
:a 5400 deluxe mill and am delighted with it. I found it didn't like 1/2 dia
:end mills, but other than that it is rigid. The head slipped once on an 
:angular cut, and the gibs are a bitch to tighten (need knobs). I've milled 
:3/16" brass with no problem. and roughed out a toolmakers vice from solid 
:aluminum stock.

Thanks, that's the sort of opinion I was looking for.  I can state with
some confidence that my machine would never see a 1/2" dia end mill.
Most things I make aren't much larger than that to begin with.

BTW, ignore my question about English vs. metric feeds.  After some
digging around, I found that the lead screws on the "inch" Sherline are
20 TPI (not 16), which gives a nice .050 advance per revolution with no
tricks needed to make sense out of the handwheel readings.  I'm not sure
where I got the idea it was 16 TPI.  Perhaps I had it confused with the
Emco-Maier Compact 5, which *is* 16 TPI in the English version.

:   You will need a vice, a dial indicator ...

I have several vices.  I discuss them mainly in certain "alt" groups,
where I post via an anonymous server.  Sherline's *vise*, OTOH, looks
like a big improvement over the Unimat version.

I have a dial test indicator, too.  That's how I know just how much
rotational slop there is in my Unimat's carriage (rotational slack of
almost 2 minutes in the main slide, which isn't a killer for a lathe but
translates into about .0005" per inch error when milling).  It took me a
while to figure why a part aligned with the feed within .0001"
end-to-end generally ended up with a taper after I milled one side.  :-(

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:24:15 EDT 1996
Article: 31970 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Etching...
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:57:09 +0100
Organization: BTL
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ncliffe-2507960957090001@132.146.65.223>
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In article <Pine.SV4.3.93.960724132504.17707A-100000@reality>, "N. S. A."
<jombi@microserve.net> wrote:

> I need any information regarding the process by which one etches metals
> (most importantly brass) using a rectifier and an electrolyte.  The
> process seems to be much like metal plating, except you remove the metal
> from the workpiece.  Although any information would greatly help me, I am
> most interested in the composition of the electrolyte (chemicals,
> concentrations, temperature, what type of cathode should be used, ect.)

Not exactly what you've asked for, but DIY _chemical_ etching of brass is
covered by and article at:

http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html

- Nigel
(2mm Scale Association Editor, and author of most of the 2mm site).

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au Sat Aug  3 11:24:17 EDT 1996
Article: 31971 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Haddy <johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver bearing solder
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 12:07:25 +1000
Organization: Macquarie University Electronics
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <31F6D6DD.167EB0E7@mpce.mq.edu.au>
References: <Duu4Bw.K82@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <4t06rj$kpo@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
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jrro@watson.ibm.com wrote:
> 
> In <Duu4Bw.K82@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>, ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:
> >
> >Yep, that's right, Silver Bearing Solder.  It's the correct name of the
> >stuff, but the package often reads " Silver Solder ".  Kester puts out some,
> >my last bubble pack reads: Product #82-5000-0005    silver 4%, tin 96%.
> >Johson Mathey & Mallory advertise two grades:
> >                         Mattisol " B "  5% silver/tin
> >                         Mattisol 430    3.5% silver/tin
> >          Available in 1/16 and 1/8 diameter wire on one pound
> >plastic spools.
> >

Also watch out for other compositions! I regularly use Sn62, with
composition
	Sn	62%
	Ag	 2%
	Pb	36%
which is often called silver loaded solder. Note that this is a _soft_
solder that is widely used in electronics work.

JohnH

-- 
      |  _  |_   _   |_|  _   _|  _|              Electronics Department
    |_| (_) | | | |  | | (_| (_| (_| \/           Macquarie University
    ---------------------------------/-           Sydney, AUSTRALIA 2109

    Email: johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au, Ph: +61 2 850 9090, Fax: +61 2 850 9128


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:18 EDT 1996
Article: 31972 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brother of HF; how much to make a corpse
Date: 25 Jul 1996 13:24:52 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <4t7sj4$3fo@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu> <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com> <darylb-2407961733300001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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In article <darylb-2407961733300001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> darylb@bnr.ca (darylb) writes:
>Most acids are carried in glass containers. HF eats glass. I think that
>about covers it.
>
>Daryl
>

If you think about it, glass is not really a very good container for
acids.  Ever drop a bottle of conc. niric or sulphuric acid?  Loads
of fun.  It just has the best price/performance point.  It is not
uncommon to find small quantities sold in plastic bottles.  Memory is
getting a little dim here, but I think they use nalgene.

For that matter, you can buy all manner of plastic laboratory ware.

Unfortunately, HF dissolves glass, so you can't use it.  Physical
properties can give you indications about materials, but they're not
the whole story.  The most innocuous appearing material can kill you
quite dead.  But properties can certainly alert you to potentially
hazardous situations, which is where I would place HF.


--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:19 EDT 1996
Article: 31973 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: need spindle sleeve for So. Bend 14.5" lathe
Date: 25 Jul 1996 13:46:54 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Lines: 12
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Reply-To: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu


Looking for a spindle sleeve for by 14.5" South Bend lathe.
Outer diameter is 1.325" with a .60235"/ft taper.
Inner taper is for Morse Taper #3.
This particular sleeve is used on South Bend Lathes made BEFORE
August, 1942.
South Bend no longer has the part, nor does their auxiliary
supplier, Miner & Assoc.
If you have two, would you consider selling one?
Thanks, Chet Roberts (ed510@cleveland.freenet.edu)
P.S. Have checked used equip suppliers in my area.  They've been
scrapping their really old stuff in favor of the newer CNC equip.


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Sat Aug  3 11:24:20 EDT 1996
Article: 31974 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roger Weppelman/Thanks!
Date: 25 Jul 1996 13:35:19 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 10
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suzette perry <after5studio@voyager.net> wrote:

>I don't suppose you have a manual for that shaper?  
>

Call Clausing at 219-533-037. They are the successor to Atlas and can provide 
manuals for about $5.00 plus shipping.

Roger Weppelman



From blake@ncweb.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:21 EDT 1996
Article: 31975 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 01:14:00 -0400
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <blake-2807960114470001@206.84.2.62>
References: <adamp.45.24B228DB@mcs.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-13.ncweb.com

}If you going to solder steel I would suggest going to an autosupply store 
}which carries leading products e.g. solder & flux, you should get a product 
}called Tins-Titer which makes tinning the steel very easy. if you are using 
}regular solder then you don't need anything more than a little propane torch 
}to get the job done.
}adamp@mcs.com

What kind of oil tank?  If it's for crude oil it will probably be full of
natural gas fumes so you'll have to flush it out well before welding.
Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Silhouette Metal Signs - Ostriches<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:22 EDT 1996
Article: 31976 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 25 Jul 1996 10:10:42 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 25
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In article <4t5tfs$nq3@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU
(Greg Lewis) writes:

>So if 30 non-detergent works, why can't you just get some fine sand
>from the local sandblast supply and add the 30 wt. oil?
>
>Is there something else in the PetroBond?

Yes, there is some sort of resin, plastic, etc bonding agent. I've tried
for several years to determine what it is but haven't found the answer
yet.
I have seen several postings and book/article reference making an
oil-bonded casting sand without this mystery compound ... even Bill Ammen
has given various brews ... but none are viable for use as far as I can
determine.
I buy both the premixed casting sands and the straight binder for making
my own special facing sands. You can take the binder compound powder (red
or tan powder about the fineness of body talc) and hit a small pile with a
propane torch flame and it will burn, so it is some sort of organic
material.
Winston
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--


From john@siu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:24 EDT 1996
Article: 31977 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:29:27 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960725092715.2661K-100000@reliant>
References: <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com> <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org> <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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On 24 Jul 1996, Greg Lewis wrote:
<snip>
> The energy was all absorbed by my toes, so of course, there was no
> rebound.  Part of the technique is learning to realize that an object
> is in downward motion, and quickly putting your weight on one foot
> while moving the other so it is underneath the object being studied.

Greg,
  I found that the technique is really quite automatic.  I seem to have
this natural reflex that very effectively catches any dropped object.
It works especially well with large castings and other heavy objects.
It seems like the heavier the object, the more effective my innate
reflexes are at cushioning its descent with my Red Wings!

John



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:25 EDT 1996
Article: 31978 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 07:15:06 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: Greg Lewis <gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>

Greg Lewis wrote:
> ........
> I've found that my foot works best. My size 14 Red Wing boots stick
> way out in front of my body, ............
> ......The energy was all absorbed by my toes, so of course, there was no
> rebound.  Part of the technique is learning to realize that an object
> is in downward motion, and quickly putting your weight on one foot
> while moving the other so it is underneath the object being studied.
> 
> ;-)

When I worked for Caterpillar, guys in the shop usually wore steel toed
boot/shoes.  Even office people could get wingtips with steel toes.
Cat really pushed for metatarsal saftety shoes, but did not require
their use.  Dropping a 10" chuck on your tootsies could really be quite
convincing (lock door after horse is stolen)...  :-)


> ___________________________________________________________________
> Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu                     They don't
> Photojournalism sequence                     Call this place
> Department of Mass Communication             An institution
>      and Journalism                          For nothing
> CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010

Paul in AJ AZ



From john@siu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:26 EDT 1996
Article: 31979 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass to Silver
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:37:42 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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Brass silverplates quite nicely.  

John


On 19 Jul 1996, Zac Crofford wrote:

> 	Up front, I apologize if I'm posting off-topic, but this NG seemed to 
> be the best point for getting an answer to my query. . .
> 
> 	I recently attained a lovely brass (I believe) pocket-watch.  It is 
> very nice, and I love it dearly, but there is one problem: all my other 
> chains, accessories, etc. are quite silver, and I would be much happier if it 
> were also silver.  The question I pose to you is if you know of a good way 
> (enameling, certain type of paint, alchemy, whatever) to transmute my lovely 
> brass pocket-watch into a lovely silver pocket-watch.
> 
> 				Thanks in Advance,
> 				Stormwind
> 
> 
> 


From cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:27 EDT 1996
Article: 31980 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 10:50:27 -0400
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Just had a thought & wondered if any of you have 
tried this...

It seems to me that I should be able to use my 
forge & one of those metal ladles that always show 
up at antique stores (although now that I want one, 
I'll probably never see one again) to melt brass or 
bronze to produce small castings. Hmmm...


From cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:28 EDT 1996
Article: 31981 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 07:51:35 -0400
Organization: Alcoa Technical Center
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BrnzCaster wrote:

> Do NOT use an iron pot to melt brass or bronze ... it'll eat right through

Y'know, it's amazing what one can forget as the 
decades since undergrad foundry classes roll by...

Thanks for this reminder & the first-hand 
experience with melting in a forge!

Brian


From abrasha@abrasha.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:29 EDT 1996
Article: 31982 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need special metric screws
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 01:34:53 -0700
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Greg Lewis wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for some metric machine screws:
> 
> oval head
> phillips
> 5mm x .8
> by 50 mm long (the hard part)
> 
> I can find 30mm ones. I've tried all the obvious sources including
> Metric Speicalties in Burbank, CA. Anyone have a source? THANKS!!
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu                     They don't
> Photojournalism sequence                     Call this place
> Department of Mass Communication             An institution
>      and Journalism                          For nothing
> CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010


Dear Greg,

I checked the Thomas Register (http://www.thomasregister.com/) for you, and this is what 
I found after I searched for: screws metric

182 Companies related to your search under Screws: Metric

 Unbrako Div./SPS Technologies -- Cleveland, OH 
 Atwood Industries -- Cleveland, OH 
 British Metrics, A Div. Of Scottish Imports Ltd. -- Westminster, MD 
 Metric Bolt & Nut Co., Inc. -- Brentwood, NY 
 Lawrence Screw Products, Inc. -- Chicago, IL 
 Maryland Metrics -- Owings Mills, MD  
 Dack Industries -- Bristol, CT 
 Rumco Inc. -- Elk Grove Village, IL 
 Metric & Multistandard Components Corp. -- Hawthorne, NY 
 Holo-Krome, A Danaher Co. -- Lancaster, PA 
 Armtork Fastening Industries -- Hempstead, NY 
 Liberty Fastener Company -- Chicago, IL 
 Emhart Fastening Teknologies, Black & Decker Co. -- Shelton, CT 
 Armour Screw Co. -- Elk Grove Village, IL 
 Morris, J. I., Co. -- Southbridge, MA 
 Metric Screw & Tool Co. -- Wakefield, MA 
 Central Machine Products -- Lonedell, MO 
 Ametric Supply Co. -- Chicago, IL 
 L.J. Fasteners -- Oradell, NJ 
 MSC Industrial Supply Co. -- Plainview, NY 
 Metrics Unlimited Inc. -- Warren, MI 
 Haas Precision Industries, Inc. -- Oak Brook, IL 
 Fastener Dimensions, Inc. -- Ozone Park, NY 
 P & R Fasteners, Inc. -- South Plainfield, NJ 
 WCL, Inc. -- City Of Industry, CA 
 Product Components Corp. -- Martinez, CA 
 Micro-Matics Corp. -- Minneapolis, MN  
 American-Swiss Products Co., Inc. -- Rochester, NY 
 Gengarelly, Inc. -- Hempstead, NY 
 Arlington Fastener Co. -- Barrington, IL 
 Federal Bolt & Nut Supply, Inc. -- Ferndale, MI 
 Archer Engineering Co., Inc. -- Chicago, IL 
 Advanced Fastener Industries, Inc. -- Fairfield, NJ 
 Choice International, Inc. -- Farmingdale, NY 
 All-Tex Industries, Inc. -- Chicago, IL 
 American Laubscher Corporation -- Farmingdale, NY 
 Peerless Hardware Mfg. Co., Inc. -- Columbia, PA 
 Metric Fasteners Corp. -- Los Angeles, CA 
 Ohio Nut & Bolt Co., The -- Berea, OH 
 Aetna Screw Products Co. -- Niles, IL 
 Clements Industries Inc. -- South Hackensack, NJ 
 Norwood Components -- West Hempstead, NY 
 Catamount Manufacturing, Inc. -- Orange, MA 
 Mid-Continent Screw Products Co. -- Lincolnwood, IL 
 Volt Industrial Plastics, Inc. -- Flippin, AR 
 Ford Atlantic Fastener Corp. -- Fairfield, NJ 
 Cordova Bolt Inc. -- Buena Park, CA 
 Jepsen Tool Company, Inc. -- Jacksonville, FL 
 Hassall, John, Inc. -- Westbury, NY 
 Mac-It Corp. -- Lancaster, PA 
 Manno, Richard, Co. -- West Babylon, NY 
 Capital Fasteners Inc. -- High Point, NC 
 Plastic & Metal Products Corp. -- Vero Beach, FL 
 Au-ve-co Products, Auto Vehicle Parts Co. -- Covington, KY 
 Europarts Inc. -- Aurora, OH 
 Wayne Bolt & Nut Co. -- Detroit, MI 
 Newman Tools Inc. -- Hartford, CT   
 Olympic Threaded Fastener Corp. -- Cleveland, OH 
 Shear-Loc Products The Cooksey Corp. -- Laguna Hills, CA   
 Micro Plastics, Inc. -- Flippin, AR 
 Gateway Screw & Rivet, Inc. -- Glendale Heights, IL 
 Cronin Fasteners, Inc. -- Elgin, IL 
 Fasteners & Metal Products Corp. -- Waltham, MA 
 Danaher Tool Group -- Lancaster, PA  
 Advantage Fastener Corp. -- Rahway, NJ 
 Camcar Div. of Textron, Inc. -- Rockford, IL 
 Eastwood Manufacturing Co. -- Houston, TX 
 Technifast Industries, Inc. -- Addison, IL 
 Area Sales - Fastener & Mechanical Div. -- Port Huron, MI 
 Forgo Fasteners -- Melrose Park, IL 
 Ability Screw Products, Inc. -- Rosemont, IL 
 Zelenda Machine & Tools Corp. -- Forest Hills, NY 
 Tower Fasteners Co., Inc. -- Holtsville, NY 
 Century Fasteners Corp. -- Elmhurst, NY 
 Trillium Screw Mfg. Co., Ltd. -- Pickering, ON 
 Prestige Products, Inc. -- Minneapolis, MN 
 Falcon Metal Corp. -- Charlotte, NC 
 Roberts Ballscrew Services -- South Lyon, MI 
 Global Metrics, Inc. -- Belmont, CA 
 Melfast, Inc. -- Fairfield, NJ 
 Rockford Products Corp. -- Rockford, IL 
 Precision Screw Products, Inc. -- Wauconda, IL 
 Quest Electronic Hardware, Inc. -- San Jose, CA 
 Kurt Mfg. Co., Screw Machining/Automatic Div. -- Minneapolis, MN 
 Samson Industries, Inc. -- Los Angeles, CA 
 Baja Tek Co. -- San Diego, CA 
 Quality Turned Parts & Screws Inc. -- Cocoa, FL 
 Fastron Co., The -- Franklin Park, IL 
 National Cap & Set Screw Co. -- Spring Grove, IL 
 Multi-Flex Seals, Inc. -- Hackensack, NJ 
 Sesco Industries, Inc. -- College Point, NY 
 Arow Components & Fasteners Inc. -- Hayward, CA 
 Prospect Fastener Corp. -- Mount Prospect, IL 
 Fastbolt Corp. -- South Hackensack, NJ 
 Component Hardware Corp. -- South Elgin, IL 
 Tanner Bolt & Nut Corp. -- Brooklyn, NY 
 Wolverine Machine Products Co. -- Holly, MI 
 Acton Stainless U.S.A. Corp. -- New Castle, DE 
 Penn Jacobson Co. -- Altoona, PA 
 Wink Fasteners -- Richmond, VA 
 CFI/Components For Industry, Inc. -- Mundelein, IL 
 Hardware Specialty Co., Inc. -- Long Island City, NY 
 Centimeter Industrial Supply Inc. -- Rochester Hills, MI 
 Diamond Fasteners, Inc. -- Farmingdale, NY 
 Service Supply Co., Inc. -- Indianapolis, IN 
 Antrin Miniature Specialties, Inc. -- Fallbrook, CA 
 Nardco Corp., Machine Tool Div. -- Brooklyn, NY 
 Industrial Fasteners & Supply, Inc., Self Locking Fasteners Div. -- Lisle, IL 
 Bryce Fastener Co., Inc. -- Phoenix, AZ 
 Unifast Fasteners -- Taylor, MI 
 Hardware Specialty Co., Inc. -- Carlsbad, CA 
 Ameratron Industries, Inc. -- Addison, IL 
 Northwest Swiss-Matic, Inc. -- Minneapolis, MN 
 SG Industries -- New York, NY 
 Elkay Fastening Systems Div. of Elkay Industries, Inc. -- Kalamazoo, MI 
 Amtek/Detroit -- Berkley, MI 
 Empire Fasteners, Inc. -- Long Island City, NY 
 Zago Mfg. Co., Inc. -- Newark, NJ 
 American Products Co., Inc. -- Union, NJ 
 Serv-Us Industrial Distributors, Inc. -- Richmond Hill, NY 
 Circle Bolt & Nut Co., Inc. -- Inkerman-Pittston, PA 
 Tabco Optical Inc. -- Fallbrook, CA 
 Adelphia, Inc. -- Cleveland, OH 
 Auto-Fastener Group, Inc. -- Augusta, KY 
 Scotia Industrial Inc. -- Chino, CA 
 Cleveland Screw Products Inc. -- Cleveland, OH 
 Bi-Rite Products, Inc. -- Woodbridge, NJ 
 American Bolt -- Fort Lauderdale, FL 
 K & S Mfg., Inc. -- Hudson, NH 
 Assembly Fasteners, Inc. -- Lincolnwood, IL 
 Prairie State Screw & Bolt Corp. -- Glenview, IL 
 NLS Industries, Inc. -- Fort Worth, TX 
 Eazypower Corp. -- Chicago, IL 
 Lance Industries, Inc. -- Royal Oak, MI 
 Addison Packaging, Inc. -- West Chicago, IL 
 ND Industries, Inc. -- Troy, MI 
 Metric Fasteners Corp. -- Grand Rapids, MI 
 Metric Fasteners Corp. -- Baltimore, MD 
 Plastic & Metal Products Corp. -- Philadelphia, PA 
 Newman Tools Inc. -- Montreal, PQ 
 Screws Industries -- Elk Grove Village, IL 
 Century Fasteners Corp. -- Columbia, SC 
 Dawco Products -- Los Angeles, CA 
 Samson Industries, Arizona Div. -- Phoenix, AZ 
 Gem Specialties, Inc. -- Clinton, MD 
 Cold Heading Co., The -- Detroit, MI 
 Maple Industries, Inc. -- Walled Lake, MI 
 Heil Screw Products Inc. -- Rochester, NY 
 Military & Commercial Fasteners Corp. -- York, PA 
 Girard Fastener Co. -- South Holland, IL 
 Bossard International, Inc. -- Portsmouth, NH 
 Crescent Mfg. Inc. -- Burlington, CT 
 FasTech Inc. -- Bay Shore, NY 
 Flexible Fixturing Systems -- East Granby, CT 
 Florida Screw Mfg. Co. -- Pompano Beach, FL 
 Grandeur Fasteners, Inc. -- Danville, AR 
 Lewis Screw -- Chicago, IL 
 Ruelle Industries, Inc. -- Drayton Plains, MI 
 All-Ways Fasteners, Inc. -- Bensenville, IL 
 Klipstand Mfg. Co., Inc. -- Westfield, MA 
 North East Fasteners Corp. -- Terryville, CT 
 Talma Fastener Corp. -- Rochester, IN 
 Bossard International, Inc., Southeast Service Center -- Greenville, SC 
 Warner Electric/Dana, Linear & Electronic Div.-Narengo -- Marengo, IL 
 Acme Screw Co. -- Wheaton, IL 
 Bondhus Corp. -- Monticello, MN 
 Ferry Cap & Set Screw Co. -- Cleveland, OH 
 Bossard International, Inc., Midwest Service Center -- Elk Grove Village, IL 
 W & E Sales Co., Inc. -- Newark, NJ 
 U.S. Hi-Tech Products Mfg. -- Fallbrook, CA 
 Continental/Midland Inc. -- Park Forest, IL 
 Jed, Leonard, Co. -- Baltimore, MD 
 Penn Screw & Machine Works, Inc. -- Philadelphia, PA 
 RMB Miniature Bearings, Inc. -- Ringwood, NJ 
 Waich Industries, Inc. -- Addison, IL 
 Century Fasteners Corp. -- Charlotte, NC 
 Dual Technologies & Mfg. Inc. -- Mount Vernon, NY 
 JS Screw Mfg. Co. -- North Hollywood, CA 
 Midwest Socket Screw Products, Inc. -- Detroit, MI 
 Solar Screw Corp. -- Addison, IL 
 Bossard International, Inc., Western Service Center -- Cerritos, CA 
 B & B Hardware Corp., Sealtight Fastener Div. -- Maumelle, AR 

Each name is hot linked to a page with more info about each company, with address, 
phone, fax and a short description of the products they manufacture.  Some companies 
have an online catalogue also.

The Thomas Register is a truly magnificent tool!

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:30 EDT 1996
Article: 31983 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: 25 Jul 1996 12:30:16 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <31F789B3.2D53@atc.alcoa.com>, cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com writes:

>It seems to me that I should be able to use my 
>forge & one of those metal ladles that always show 
>up at antique stores (although now that I want one, 
>I'll probably never see one again) to melt brass or 
>bronze to produce small castings. Hmmm...

Do NOT use an iron pot to melt brass or bronze ... it'll eat right through
the iron when it becomes molten.
Back last September, I gave a casting demo for the local BAM group. As
part of the demo, a #2 clay-graphite crucible was used to melt about 4
pounds of silicon bronze in a coke fired forge ... ready to pour in about
25 minutes. Use a lid on the pot and keep the coke stoked heavy around the
pot during the melt, with a good air blast.
Power Model Supply (in FAQ) has small crucibles and covers.
Winston
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--


From abrasha@abrasha.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:31 EDT 1996
Article: 31984 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sources for tiny springs?
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:52:08 -0700
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <31F7A638.314A@abrasha.com>
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Alan Shinn wrote:
> 
> In article <Dutz5q.MG1.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>,
> rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
> 
> > I'm looking for a source for tiny compression springs for a mechanical
> > model.  The springs need to have a O.D. no larger than 0.075" and a
> > relaxed length of around 0.300".  I did get a few springs of that size
> > from a locksmith/distributor, but they're a bit stiff for what I want.
> >
> > Any suggestions?


Dear Alan,

Try:

Small Parts, Inc.
13980 N.W. 58th Court
P.O. Box 4650
Miami Lakes, FL. 33014
(800) 220-4242, (305) 557-8222; (800) 423-9009 (FAX), (305) 558-0509 (international FAX) 

Also look at:

http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/vendors.html

and

http://www.thomasregister.com/ 

Good luck

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:33 EDT 1996
Article: 31985 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG questions
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 16:33:01 GMT
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On 25 Jul 1996 07:18:47 -0400, eleebad@aol.com (Eleebad) wrote:

>I am considering the purchase of a TIG unit to hook to my 230/140 AC/DC
>welder and have some basic questions.Can I weld dissimilar materials such
>as cast iron and mild steel, or cast iron and stainless with this set-up.
>Also re: aluminum, mag, copper - is this a functional set up or must I
>also have a high frequency unit. Thanks.

Although some make inexpensive TIG units (Miller EconoTig) that use high
voltage spikes at crossover instead of High Frequency, I think the consensus
is that you're much better off with HF, more arc stability throughout. I
know you asked about TIG add-on to your present equip, but Lincoln has just
come out with a decent self-contained (Square-Wave 175) that has
auto-balance and continous HF when in AC (Aluminum) mode. I just bought one
based on these features, and it seems to work great. My pro buddy
recommended it over the EconoTig's although those truly have a good rep,
too. Just that I wanted to major in alum, so I wanted HF & the
auto-balancing really does seem to give good cleaning action regardless of
amps (goes all the way down to 12!)

Another tip is to get Miller's really good "Gas Tungsten Arc Welding" book
>from  any Miller dealer (shame on you Lincoln for not having such a good
freebee!) They have an even better "Gas Metal Arc Welding" book for anyone
wanting to get started in MIG. Both these books are filled with good stuff
and almost no commercial reference to their own equipment. For example, in
their Gas Tungsten book they extol HF, even though their EconoTig doesn't
use it. Don't confuse these books with flyers, the TIG book is 90 pages 8x11
and the MIG is 150 pgs.

Garfield

P.S. Let me know if you find a good reference on your dissimilar metals
question. Haven't seen much on that meself.


From welk@bisco.kodak.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:34 EDT 1996
Article: 31986 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: welk@bisco.kodak.com (Steve Welk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mill move, the final chapter
Date: 25 Jul 1996 13:08:56 -0400
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <4t89n8$79h@bissun.bisco.kodak.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bissun.bisco.kodak.com

The interested reader will recall that as of a couple weeks ago, I had removed
the table, saddle, head & power feed from the recently purchased old 
Bridgeport, and was figuring out how to move the remainder.  Well, finally 
got around to it yesterday.  Rented a 5'x8' trailer ($30), johnson bar ($11),
borrowed a friends van ($10 for gas), and a friends engine hoist ($0).  With
a buddy, went to the shop where the remains were (base casting, knee, turret
and ram), lifted them w/ the hoist, rolled it about 20 feet to the trailer &
strapped it down.  Drove home slowly, but with no problems at all.

The mill was going into my basement, which was accessible from the outside
but required going down a small hill over grass by the side of the house.
We drove over the yard, backed the trailer down the hill as far as possible
which left the trailer at an angle.  Opened the gate/ramp, hooked up a 
come-a-long & some straps, and let gravity do most of the work getting the mill
off the trailer under control of the come-a-long.  Let it end up on some
plywood on the ground - once there, 3 of us rocked/walked the mill down to the
basement door - once there, got some 3/4" steel rod rollers under it, which
allowed us to move it into position pretty easily.

The bottom line?  Wasn't that hard, total elapsed time was about 5 hours,
didn't seem at all dangerous given how we did it.  I wouldn't want to do
it every week, but from the quotes I was getting, I probably saved a minimum
of $400, so I'd say it was worth the effort.  The jockeying around on the
lawn might have been a bit easier if I took off the turret & knee, but it
didn't seem necessary.

Anyway, thanks to all for the suggestions giving me the confidence to do
it myself.  A bridgeport in the basement - life is good!

Steve


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:35 EDT 1996
Article: 31987 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:37:53 -0400
Organization: University of Maryland at Baltimore
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <Pine.A32.3.94.960726093006.74937D-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
References: <31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au> <4t4m7l$989@news.accessone.com> <Pine.SOL.3.93.960725183155.25406C-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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A few years back, a gentleman demonstrating at the Delaware Museum's, 
Mid-Atlantic Smith's association, Blacksmith's Days, explained his 
formula for welding anvils.  He had taken borings from the anvil and
received cooperation from one of the welding rod companies.  If I remember
correctly, he used fill rods, then 2 layers of hard-surfacing abrasion
resistant rods for the top two layers.  The anvil was first preheated in
the forge face down, then flipped over for welding.  His method was 
pretty specific in terms of temperature, and welding rods.  Perhaps 
someone online with the Delaware Guild, would have the information handy 
and could publish it.



From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:36 EDT 1996
Article: 31988 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.texas.net!nntp04.primenet.com!news.shkoo.com!nntp.primenet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bamboo??
Date: 28 Jul 1996 10:56:30 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <tap17-2507962038260001@vny0132.deltanet.com>
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In article <tap17-2507962038260001@vny0132.deltanet.com>,
tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray) writes:

> Hi, gang; I've got this problem: I'm trying to lop off some thin 
>> slices of bamboo, maybe 1/8in. thick and 2 to 3in. o.d. The trouble is 
>> that the stuff sort of comes apart, particularly the "bark" on the 
>> outside.

Try one of those plastic pipe cutters that have the sharp blade.  Rotate
the stock while cutting.   These things cut shrubbery great.

Cecil in OK


From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:37 EDT 1996
Article: 31989 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: 28 Jul 1996 11:00:15 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Forget   McMaster-Carr   I heard they were hard to get a catalogue from 35
years ago.   

Try MSC  THere catalog is great!  There service is also great.   I ordered
a set of expanding mandrels from them, got it here in 2 days, but UPS
couldn't find me for 3 more, when I got the set, they were made in USA. 
(well, it really was NJ, when your'e from OK, NJ is a foreign
country!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Cecil in OK


From cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:38 EDT 1996
Article: 31990 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!mercury.galstar.com!usenet
From: Tony O'seland <cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cauldrons
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:09:16 -0500
Organization: Cedar Wolf Productions
Lines: 11
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We're looking for old fashioned cast iron cauldrons, like most folks 
these days great grandparents used to do everything from wash clothes to 
make soap.

We need a few larger ones for boiling honeysuckle and buckbrush for 
basketmaking.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony O'seland
cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net


From krieder@buffnet.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:39 EDT 1996
Article: 31991 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 26 Jul 1996 16:03:31 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4taq8k$a3c@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
References: <4t5tfs$nq3@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <4t7v92$ops@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4t8v04$fv4@crl10.crl.com>
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J. Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com) wrote:
: In article <4t7v92$ops@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
: BrnzCaster <brnzcaster@aol.com> wrote:
: >Yes, there is some sort of resin, plastic, etc bonding agent. I've tried
: >for several years to determine what it is but haven't found the answer
: >yet.
: >I have seen several postings and book/article reference making an
: >oil-bonded casting sand without this mystery compound ... even Bill Ammen
: The only thing I can think of that is red or tan powder would be powdered 
: rosin.  It is organic, burns, and is certainly a binder used for 
: castings.  I think we used it for shell mold manufacture at Link-Belt 
: when I was their foundry chemist in 1962.  Don't quote me, that was 34 
: years ago.  I could analyze it if I had some.

I think that perhaps what is being referred to is a phenolic resin.
If it has an odor which reminds you of old fashoned library paste... 
that's probably what it is.  Sort of an "uncured bakelite" in fine 
powder (golden, tan, light brown).  At oven temperatures the resin
will cure and bond the core, and at higher temperatures the resin
will be destroyed and the core crumbles.  One maker... in the past
at least... was Union Carbide.  If you use the term "phenolic resin",
foundry suppliers should know what your talking about.




From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:40 EDT 1996
Article: 31992 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: 28 Jul 1996 16:00:50 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4tg2ri$9h8@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>
References: <adamp.45.24B228DB@mcs.com> <blake-2807960114470001@206.84.2.62>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny14-17.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jul 28  9:00:50 AM PDT 1996

JB Weld it and forget about it.
Sometimes the easy way is the best.

Jim HArvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


>Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio
<blake@ncweb.com>
>>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Silhouette
Metal Signs - Ostriches<<
>http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake



From nykwish@msn.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:41 EDT 1996
Article: 31993 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: nykwish@msn.com (T Wish)
Subject: RE: Copper Patina Recipies
Date: 25 Jul 96 05:31:08 -0700
References: <4ss4kn$jeb@star.epix.net>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+00002f20@msn.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 8

Kits for Patina are available through arts and crafts stores, perhaps 
through Home Depot and larger hardware Stores, and through the 
Pottery Barn.

Also try the Metals Handbook, Vol. 5 Cleaning and Finishing,(from 
ASM) for recipies.

Tom


From after5studio@voyager.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:42 EDT 1996
Article: 31994 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: suzette perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Roger Weppelman/Thanks!
Date: 25 Jul 1996 18:59:45 GMT
Organization: after 5 studio
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4t8g71$4kc@vixc.voyager.net>
References: <31EDA373.2FBC@onramp.net> <4t5f4q$gsg@vixc.voyager.net> <4t7t6n$loh@tin.monsanto.com>
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X-URL: news:4t7t6n$loh@tin.monsanto.com

Thanks for the reference! By the way, what kind of work are you doing 
with your shaper? Have you ever tried cutting dovetails on one? I don't 
have much experience with machine tools and am just starting out. I got 
the shaper as a package deal with a small atlas mill. Also what kind of 
tool bits are you using? Have you made any of your own with curves in 
them? I presume that is the only to get them since I havn't seen any for 
sale. Any information you could share would be very helpful!

																												Brian Perry
																												after5studio@voyager.net

        P.S. I am not Suzette, she is my wife and her name is the one 
the provider has. Sorry for any inconvenience. Thanks again!




From scottcr@wkuvx1.wku.edu Sat Aug  3 11:24:43 EDT 1996
Article: 31995 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!news.memphis.edu!news.wku.edu!wkuvx1.wku.edu!scottcr
From: scottcr@wkuvx1.wku.edu (Chris Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
Date: 25 Jul 96 14:06:54 CDT
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <1996Jul25.140654@wkuvx1.wku.edu>
References: <4sngrl$ljj@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.A32.3.94.960724081304.36527B-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> <jriser-2407961007090001@usr8ip22.azstarnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wkuvx1.wku.edu

In article <jriser-2407961007090001@usr8ip22.azstarnet.com>, jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser) writes:
> In article <Pine.A32.3.94.960724081304.36527B-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>,
> David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> wrote:
> 
>> I'm a bit baffled on these auto-darkening helmits.  I tried one
>> for a day, but had problems with it.  Admittably the problems may
>> be due to my poor welding skills.
>> 
>>    First off, the helmet tended 
>> to strobe as the result of my having difficulty in keeping an arc.
>> This tended to be a Catch-22, with the strobing and lack of arc
>> contributing to each other.
>> 
>>   Secondly, perhaps an engineering type
>> could answer my main concern about them, speed of filter versus, 
>> the speed of light.  It is difficult for me to comprehend how the 
>> filter could possibly respond to the change in light level fast 
>> enough to prevent at least some damaging flash to hit my eyes.
>> After all, isn't the **speed-of-light**  faster than the speed of the 
>> electrical components in the helmet?  It sure appeared to me that 
>> the brightness increased just prior to the helmet darkening.
> 
> David;
> The more expensive auto-darkening filters have a delay adjustment.  This
> allows you to set the delay for how long before the lens "lightens".  Mine
> is cheaper and lets you adjust the level of shading only.  I've never had
> any problems and think it really helps my welding quality.  FYI my filter
> darkens in 1/25,000 of a second and has a fixed delay of .25 seconds to go
> from dark to light.
> Jim
> 
> -- 
> James P. Riser
> Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser

The LCD shuttered helmets are simply wonderful.  I used to be the
arc monster, and now I could probably make novice welder.

-- 
Chris.Scott@WKU.EDU  Chief Engineer, Public Radio- Western KY U
                     Telco: (502) 745-3834  Hm & Fax: (502) 781-1232
...just another insignificant VAX user.        \\\//
                                               (o o)
--------------------------------------------ooO-(_)-Ooo----------------------- 


From ama@marley.East.Sun.COM Sat Aug  3 11:24:45 EDT 1996
Article: 31996 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!eastnews1.East.Sun.COM!walters.East.Sun.COM!marley!ama
From: ama@marley.East.Sun.COM (Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum brazing
Date: 25 Jul 1996 19:06:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <4t8gj6$896@walters.East.Sun.COM>
References: <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: marley.east.sun.com

In article <1996Jul22.205947.914@flying-disk.com> frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie) writes:
}I need some advice about welding/brazing aluminum.
}
}The aluminum radiator for the air conditioner in my old car
}sprung a leak (an adjacent sharp-edged part had come loose
}and rubbed a groove in it).   Since I don't have a TIG machine
}yet, I decided to try aluminum brazing.
}
}Fortunately, I had enough forsight to practice on some scrap
}first.   No matter what I did, I could not get the rod to
}join with the base part.   Usually I wound up heating the
}part so much that it melted in half.


FWIW:

I picked up a hole in an aluminum oil cooler on my old RX7 years back.
I brought it to a radiator shop to be fixed and, believe it or not, they
used some kind of plastic to patch it.  They said that it was too hard
to try to weld or braze it because the tubing walls were too thin.

I was skeptical, but with the difference in price between a new oil cooler
and their plastic patch repair I figured it was worth a shot...

I never had a problem with it...

--Al Amaral--
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Al Amaral				  Al.Amaral@East.Sun.COM
"G'day, and welcome to All Things Delta.  If it's not Delta, IT'S CRAP!" 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:24:46 EDT 1996
Article: 31997 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!pendragon!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: 25 Jul 1996 19:38:24 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <darylb-2507961543030001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4t87eo$rj9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, brnzcaster@aol.com
(BrnzCaster) wrote:

> In article <31F789B3.2D53@atc.alcoa.com>, cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com writes:
> 
> >It seems to me that I should be able to use my 
> >forge & one of those metal ladles that always show 
> >up at antique stores (although now that I want one, 
> >I'll probably never see one again) to melt brass or 
> >bronze to produce small castings. Hmmm...
> 
> Do NOT use an iron pot to melt brass or bronze ... it'll eat right through
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> the iron when it becomes molten.
> Back last September, I gave a casting demo for the local BAM group. As
> part of the demo, a #2 clay-graphite crucible was used to melt about 4
> pounds of silicon bronze in a coke fired forge ... ready to pour in about
> 25 minutes. Use a lid on the pot and keep the coke stoked heavy around the
> pot during the melt, with a good air blast.
> Power Model Supply (in FAQ) has small crucibles and covers.
> Winston
> --
> Winston W. Harness
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
> --

How about a stainless cup?

Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Sat Aug  3 11:24:47 EDT 1996
Article: 31998 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: You don't have to be crazy...
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: alpha.prospect.anprod.csiro.au
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Sender: news@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU
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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 11:48:07 GMT
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But it helps.

Got back from 2 weeks field work last Friday; arrived home at midnight. So
naturally I needed some light entertainment on Saturday. Where else to go
but the local second hand machinery dealer?

After an hour's wandering around, I spotted a shaper I hadn't seen before
(yep, I know the floor stock probably better than the staff). Wandered
over for a look and saw the price tag.

$295, as-is. Looked about 18" stroke. I figured it had to be totally
stuffed as these guys give nothing away, but a good lookover revealed only
missing handles and a broken piece on the power feed. All pretty simple
when you already have mills & lathes. 

Anyway, I got them to power it up. Ram moved OK, all 8 speeds in the
gearbox worked fine. Didn't look like any major wear. Feedscrews not
visibly worn either. Looked like it came from a college shop. Only serious
damage was some heavy brazing on the tool slide, and it was well done.

So now I own a 20" stroke Prema (Swedish) shaper. All I have to do is
figure out what I'm going to use it for. But at that price, it was too
good to pass up. My wife just said "Uh huh". Fortunately, her father is
worse than me, so she knows no better.

Unfortunately, the delivery driver put it down very hard when his truck
shifted and broke 2 corners off the base. Still usable but aesthetically
displeasing. The iron is over 1/2" thick. All suggestions re welding them
back on gratefully received. I have MIG, 415V stick and oxy welding rigs
but no experience welding cast iron. Brazing, yes, but considering the
position and the mass, I'm not anxious to start using a No 25 tip - and
even that would probably be too small.

Peter Wiley




From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:48 EDT 1996
Article: 31999 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: #40 Devleig tooling
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 12:06:09 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
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Flew into SMELL A a couple of days ago and bought the Gorton mill that 
was the subject of the CNC upgrade thread a while ago. It has a #40 
Devleig quick change spindle and I need tooling for it. Ideally, I would 
like to get an adaptor that accepts Erickson (or equiv) collets. 
Anaything out there?

Lee Marshall


From plumpe@innova.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:49 EDT 1996
Article: 32000 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plumpe@innova.net (Dave & Ellen Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Phillips Head Specs?
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 18:47:32 GMT
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Anyone have the specs (angle, shape of tip, web thickness, etc) for Phillips 
Head screwdrivers??  I like to touch-up the tips on mine, but I'd really like 
to do it right, rather than by guess.

I'm sure I've seen the specs somewhere, but have looked everywhere I can 
think and can't find them.

Dave Plumpe

plumpe@innova.net          Dave & Ellen Plumpe, on Lake Keowee in upstate SC.


From craigtc@theramp.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:50 EDT 1996
Article: 32001 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: craigtc@theramp.net (Craig C.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Flattening sheet after it was rolled?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 00:03:20 GMT
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>In article <96198.210626IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>, Bob Mueller
><IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> wrote:

>> A number of convenient materials are sold on rolls, shim stock being just one
>> example.   Some  tasks need these materials in a pretty flat condition but how
>> can  the curvature be neatly removed over considerable area?
>> 
>> 
>>       Bob

Some snipped here....


All of my Al sheet stock that is under .040 comes from the vendor in
rolls. All we do to flatten it is to roll out the approximate amount
that we need on the work table and flip it over so that the edges curl
towards the table.  We then trim the sheet and use either 1x4's with
sandbags or a sheet of 3/4 plywood to weight the material down for a
few hours. No more curling then...If we are in a hurry and there are
at least 3 of us there, we carefully roll the material back up  the
opposite direction. It doesn't always come out completely flat, but
close enough for what we are doing...



Craig



From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:51 EDT 1996
Article: 32002 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG questions
Date: 25 Jul 1996 23:32:35 GMT
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In article <31f79df6.37773952@santaclara01.news.internex.net>, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) writes:
|> 
|> Although some make inexpensive TIG units (Miller EconoTig) that use high
|> voltage spikes at crossover instead of High Frequency, I think the consensus
|> is that you're much better off with HF, more arc stability throughout. I
|> know you asked about TIG add-on to your present equip, but Lincoln has just
|> come out with a decent self-contained (Square-Wave 175) that has
|> auto-balance and continous HF when in AC (Aluminum) mode. I just bought one
|> based on these features, and it seems to work great. My pro buddy
|> recommended it over the EconoTig's although those truly have a good rep,
|> too. Just that I wanted to major in alum, so I wanted HF & the
|> auto-balancing really does seem to give good cleaning action regardless of
|> amps (goes all the way down to 12!)
|> 
|> Garfield

Whats the price tag on that "hot-rod Lincoln" :)

bill



From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:52 EDT 1996
Article: 32003 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seeking more help, small diameter milling in soft alum.
Date: 28 Jul 1996 12:52:17 -0400
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In article <4tdscm$r0a@news1.slip.net>, 74106.35@compuserve.com (Ed
Chejlava) writes:

>>This news group deserves great credit for content and educational value
>:>to novices. I look forward to future involvement.  Perhaps we can help
>:>with issues related to electronics and control systems, though we do
not
>:>have a machine tool background.
>:>
>:>Please respond with posts to this group, E-Mail address not ready yet.
>:>
>:>Thanks,  Steve Stallings
>:>
>Steve


Steve
I have not followed this thread lately, but if you are trying to cut
aluminum, could you use a carbide saw blade on a table saw, or modify the
speed on a small bandsaw and use a guide..

I would be happy to try to help you on this.   I am also trying to connect
a small X-Y table to a computer for CNC.

I am not sure if you are milling slots, or trying to cut, in your
application.  Please give me a reader's digest  version, I will be glad to
offer my $.02.

Cecil in OK


From writt@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:53 EDT 1996
Article: 32004 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: 25 Jul 1996 20:05:41 -0400
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In article <4t6pqb$11t@prometheus.localnet.com>, logsys@localnet.com
(Mitchell Burko) writes:

>I'm interested in opinions of Sherline mills.
>
> I'm starting to shop for a small and inexpensive mill. MSC (manhattan
>supply co) shows a Sherline for about $500. I need cut FR4, Alum.,
>brass, plastics and maybe some steel. Small fixturing projects.
>Tolerances will be important.
>
>I'm interested in hearing from people who swear by and swear at
>sherline's. Any takers?
>
>

I  have had a Sherline lathe for about a year and I think it is the best
value there is in a small tool. If it's size will work for the  parts you
intend to machine you  won't be disappointed. With care I am able to work
to .0002".

Bill Rittner


From rcook@BIX.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:55 EDT 1996
Article: 32005 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: 28 Jul 1996 22:56:43 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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DebSamuels wrote:
>I've enrolled in a blacksmithing workshop and was told to purchase a 1 1/2
>or 2 lb. cross peen hammer.  I am unfamiliar with this tool; any
>suggestions as to where I could find one?
>
Well, Sears used to carry them a couple of years ago.

These are also known as 'engineers hammers' and they are the hammer in the
hammer and sickle on the old Soviet flag.

BTW: Go for the 1.5 lb model. It's got enough heft and won't tire you out
when you're just starting.

--RC


From sherrick@slonet.org Sat Aug  3 11:24:56 EDT 1996
Article: 32006 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:36:23 -0700
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Try using an electrode that Stoody makes (Stoody is a hardface electrode
manufacturer) you should be able to find in a welding supply store. The
name of the electrode is "buildup". It  is very similar to 7018 in runing
characteristics, but has a higher manganese content. This puts down a weld
that is work hardenable. Be sure to preheat your anvil to 200 to 300 deg.
F. or there might be localized quenching of the anvil and weld area...

hope this helps...

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On 24 Jul 1996, J R Slack wrote:

> In article <31F3A6C8.3EC2@iap.net.au>, anvil@iap.net.au says...
> >
> >I am looking for advice on a good electrode to reface/repair cast steel 
> anvil. 
> [snip]
> 
> What you're looking for are 'hard-facing' electrodes (sorry I can't be more 
> specific, but I'm a blacksmith, not a welder).  You might try a welder's 
> supply in farm country; they're used for building up worn harrow tines and the 
> like.
> 
> You'll want to pre-heat your anvil before doing any welding on the face. Dig a 
> primitive fire bowl in the ground, fabricate a tuyere, build up a nice fire, 
> and heat slowly from the base 'til spit dances on the face; drag 'er out and 
> get busy!
> 
> 
> 



From rvanzant@van.inc.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:57 EDT 1996
Article: 32007 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: 26 Jul 1996 03:10:57 GMT
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>> I'm starting to shop for a small and inexpensive mill. MSC (manhattan
>>supply co) shows a Sherline for about $500.

    Anyone have contact info on MSC?  I've looked around the net with 
no luck.

thanks,
bob



From tpaulsen@ecity.net Sat Aug  3 11:24:58 EDT 1996
Article: 32008 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Terry Paulsen <tpaulsen@ecity.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Info on Cincinatti 12" BC Horiz. Mill
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:09:50 -0500
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I have recently acquired a Cincinatti 12" B C  Horiz Milling machine.
It is driven off of a flat belt but has been adapted for an electric 
motor.  It currently is fitted with a 1/2 h.p. motor which I think was 
thrown on so the machine would have a motor.  I was wondering what size 
of a motor should a machine of this size be equipped with.  Also what
range of speeds is the machine intended to be operated over.  

Thanks,

Terry Paulsen


From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:24:59 EDT 1996
Article: 32009 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Home Foundry, At Last!
Date: 25 Jul 1996 16:12:04 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <4t7v92$ops@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
BrnzCaster <brnzcaster@aol.com> wrote:
>>Is there something else in the PetroBond?
>
>Yes, there is some sort of resin, plastic, etc bonding agent. I've tried
>for several years to determine what it is but haven't found the answer
>yet.
>I have seen several postings and book/article reference making an
>oil-bonded casting sand without this mystery compound ... even Bill Ammen
>has given various brews ... but none are viable for use as far as I can
>determine.
>I buy both the premixed casting sands and the straight binder for making
>my own special facing sands. You can take the binder compound powder (red
>or tan powder about the fineness of body talc) and hit a small pile with a
>propane torch flame and it will burn, so it is some sort of organic
>material.
>Winston

The only thing I can think of that is red or tan powder would be powdered 
rosin.  It is organic, burns, and is certainly a binder used for 
castings.  I think we used it for shell mold manufacture at Link-Belt 
when I was their foundry chemist in 1962.  Don't quote me, that was 34 
years ago.  I could analyze it if I had some.

JerryK


From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:00 EDT 1996
Article: 32010 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need special metric screws
Date: 25 Jul 1996 16:22:04 -0700
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In article <4t6cm9$4b9@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>,
Greg Lewis <gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> wrote:
>
>
>I'm looking for some metric machine screws:
>
>oval head
>phillips
>5mm x .8
>by 50 mm long (the hard part)
>
>I can find 30mm ones. I've tried all the obvious sources including
>Metric Speicalties in Burbank, CA. Anyone have a source? THANKS!!
>___________________________________________________________________
>Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
>Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
>Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
>     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
>CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010
>
We have a place up here in Bazerkley, CA that has metric.  I'll ask them 
and send you an e-mail back.

Otherwise, Metric & Multistandard components corp has them in slotted 
head up to 100mm long, 5mm x (?) in stainless 304 or 316, and up to 40mm 
long in phillips head.  Call them at 800-431-2792.  I guess 0.8mm pitch 
is the standard?

JerryK



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:01 EDT 1996
Article: 32011 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting speeds and Depths
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:35:58 GMT
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References: <4t1ukb$fbd@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961006090001@news.nantucket.net> <r.lee-2307961030470001@news.nantucket.net> <4t2sde$kfq@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2307961645460001@news.nantucket.net> <4t3jqn$pkk@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <r.lee-2407961010100001@news.nantucket.net>
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r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

>the thing that I still have the hardest time with on the mill vrs the
>lathe is getting off the last 'odd thou' it is very hard (for me) to mill
>less than 3 to 5 thou off a part with good surface finish... I try to
>leave a last cut of say 10 thou for this reason.

Sometimes I have good luck by flooding the surface with coolant and
running the speed up a lot.  The odd thou comes right off and the
surface looks like a mirror.  Course my shirt looks funny with a
horizontal line across the chest.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:02 EDT 1996
Article: 32012 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:41:02 GMT
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References: <4t1q1t$qdl@news.chatlink.com> <4t2n5f$7ct@fcnews.fc.hp.com> <fbNDhPA6qT9xEwmL@abdab.demon.co.uk> <4t5q97$a2n@robin.theramp.net><4t61a0$jtc@server.eng.dsea.com> <211@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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Actually, I think you had a boiler accident last year when the
gasket on the mud ring cleanout port allowed a steam 'explosion'
in a small steam boat.  I believe the owner and his son/grandson
were killed.  This was during a boiler inspection, by the way.

Seems the gasket or door was installed incorrectly.  The
attending inspector is up on charges, I last heard.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From tap17@deltanet.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:03 EDT 1996
Article: 32013 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Soft iron electroplate?
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:41:58 -0700
Organization: Gray Associates
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In article <bconner-2307960944390001@mfd-dial1-9.cybercom.net>,
bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) wrote:

> Is there some way to lay down an electroplated layer of iron?  Anybody
> have any info on solutions, current densities, etc?  Seems like it could
> be done and I need it for a special project.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Bruce Conner
> bconner@cybercom.net

   If I am correct, some good soldering irons have a coating of iron. If
so, plating must be possible. Calling Weller might at least confirm
whether they are so plated. I don't know any more.
   Please post  your findings.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sat Aug  3 11:25:04 EDT 1996
Article: 32014 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jon Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chemical Milling of Commercially Pure Titanium
Date: 29 Jul 1996 05:02:30 GMT
Organization: Washington University
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Composites Lab <judson@vt.edu> wrote:
>I am in search of a chemical or electrochemical milling technique to remove about 0.03 inches 
>of CP Ti from a piece of jewelery I'm trying to make.  I probably have access to any equipment 
>necessary.  I am also looking for a maskant to use as an etch stop on this piece so as to make 
>a specific pattern on the piece.  Any advice would be appreciated.
>
Ohhhh!  This sounds bad!  Ti is one of the most corrosion resistant metals known, outside
of the noble metals.  To get clean edges with minimal undercutting, you need to complete
the etching very fast.  To get etching .030" deep, it is (IMHO) impossible to do this with
liquid processing.  I think you would have to go to ion beam etching or plasma etching.
I frequently etch the copper patterns on circuit boards, but the depth is only .001".
To go 30 times deeper with liquid etchants sounds very hard.

The only other thing I can think of is EDM, which might work well.



From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:06 EDT 1996
Article: 32015 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG questions
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 06:47:49 GMT
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On 25 Jul 1996 23:32:35 GMT, wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin (Temp))
wrote:

>In article <31f79df6.37773952@santaclara01.news.internex.net>, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) writes:
>|> 
>|> Lincoln has just
>|> come out with a decent self-contained (Square-Wave 175) that has
>|> auto-balance and continous HF when in AC (Aluminum) mode.
>
>Whats the price tag on that "hot-rod Lincoln" :)
>
Well, this one won't drive you to drinkin' 8) :  I paid $1250 at the shop
where I have always gone for good advice and service (South Bay
Welding/Hayward...smaller Fremont store has a good guy there too-Dave). When
I bought my MIG and then later my plasma cutter, they always had the best
price in the area. I actually got a glossy on the Lincoln to study up from
another store that wanted $1199, but the sales guy was a manipulative little
shit, so I did the right thing, heh, and bought from ole reliable. Funny
thing was that SoBay loaded me up with a couple pounds of 3 kinds of filler
rod, a couple more collets & collet bodies, and several tungsten varieties
for stainless, alum, & steel. Guess I did the right thing after all ! I know
that other turkey wouldn't have given me anything. Live and learn.

Garfield


From tap17@deltanet.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:07 EDT 1996
Article: 32016 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bamboo??
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:38:26 -0700
Organization: Gray Associates
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In article <4t0j1j$el1@acme.sb.west.net>, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) wrote:

>         Hi, gang; I've got this problem: I'm trying to lop off some thin 
> slices of bamboo, maybe 1/8in. thick and 2 to 3in. o.d. The trouble is 
> that the stuff sort of comes apart, particularly the "bark" on the 
> outside. Can someone suggest a way to cut this that won't disturb the 
> material a whole lot?? Does anyone have an idea of how to stabilize the 
> material so that it won't fray??
>         TIA,
> -- 
>         "Steamboat Ed" Haas     :       Time flies like an arrow        
>         COMING SOON             :       Fruit flies like a banana...
>         http://www.west.net/~steamer    
>                 ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>         

   Interesting problem. I would try cutting into a piece with a small
abrasive wheel (e.g. 1" diameter and about 1/32 or 1/16 thick) mounted in
a Dremel. If this cuts without clogging or fraying, then I would try
mounting the bamboo in a lathe at low speed and mounting the Dremel on the
toolpost. (I found that a Dremel mounted on the toolpost makes a cheap and
acceptable toolpost grinder for small sharpening work.)
   Let me know or post the results of what you find.
   We could use a newsgroup devoted to unusual questions like yours and
their answers.


From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:08 EDT 1996
Article: 32017 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: 26 Jul 1996 11:52:04 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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In article <slrn4vgdsm.12v.rvanzant@van.inc.net>, From 
rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant), the following was written:
> Anyone have contact info on MSC?

They have a web site:

http://www.industry.net/msc

 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From rvanzant@van.inc.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:09 EDT 1996
Article: 32018 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: 26 Jul 1996 13:28:59 GMT
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>For the money you can't go wrong on Sherline for this size of machine.

     Let's assume for the moment that the Sherline mill is exactly 
what I need in terms of price, size, and ability.  Except for the
size that is.  Instead of a useable area of approx 4x3, I need an
honest 6"x6".  Any suggestions?

thanks,
bob



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:25:10 EDT 1996
Article: 32019 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Steam engines: Wooden lag o-rings
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Good grief!  Lagging is the insulation used on boilers, steam lines ( 
Pipes ), and cylinders. The metal cover that protects the lagging is called
the jacket, as in boiler jacket, or cylinder jacket.  British types call 
the jacket, cleading or cladding.  This has nothing to do with o-rings.
Wood lagging was used before the advent of superheating.  Even so, it had 
a short life, due to the heat.  Felt was also popular in the last century.
This was replaced by magnesia, and asbestos cloth/cement which would 
withstand superheat.
A cylinder, or boiler lagged with wood, and no jacket looks nice though. 
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ewillard@atl.mindspring.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:11 EDT 1996
Article: 32020 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ewillard@atl.mindspring.com (Edward Willard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sell or display your art on the Internet
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:11:13 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Sell or display your art on the
internet and reach the world.
Internet Marketing by:
Edward Willard
PO Box 1496
Flowery Branch, GA. 30542
770-534-1186 phone/fax
E-Mail: ewillard@mindspring.com
WWW: http://www.connections.w1.com/

We can get your business up on the World Wide Web . Design & load a 
Homepage and referring web pages for a low cost.
(One Time Charge , includes 5 changes to pages)
We have Web Space on our server or we will load the pages on yours.

Visit Our Web Page for more details:
http://www.connections.w1.com/web.html

Order Blanks, Catalogs , Business or personal web pages, Quote
and questionnaire forms, credit card ordering forms , Graphics ,
In full color using the latest programming.

"Also Web Page Promotion & Training"
Listing your web site on Internet search engines and primary promoting
of
your Homepage on the Internet and in person sessions to train you  how
to
market on the Internet and respond to inquires , fill orders.

Materials can be in IBM text or GIF files
Hard copies accepted ,  Scanning and transferring available.

If you would like a free consultation please give me a call or
send an E-Mail to: ewillard@mindspring.com

770-534-1186 





                   




From cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:12 EDT 1996
Article: 32021 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tony O'seland <cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Old Fashioned Scroll/Fret Saw
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:12:39 -0500
Organization: Cedar Wolf Productions
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We're looking for traditional foot powered scroll saw/fret saws.

I know that they are still made, I've seen a few at other trade shows 
being used.

Anyone got any ideas?  Also foot powered lathes, too.

Tony O'seland
cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net


From CJGJ59A@prodigy.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:13 EDT 1996
Article: 32022 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Art Devonshire)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
Date: 26 Jul 1996 15:28:06 GMT
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rec.crafts.metalworking
[1] wanted: refractory for carbon-arc melting
allen.chris.ca@bhp.com.au


Don't want to spoil the party but this could KILL or MAIM if not handled 
carefully. 
Water and hot metal in inexperienced hands join to make extremely nasty 
explosions.

-----------------------------------------------
All opinions here are mine, not my company's.

Chris Allen     allen.chris.ca@bhp.com.au 
Senior Project Geologist   BHP Steel LPD, Whyalla SA  5600 Australia
Lance Ryan <ryanl@topaz.cqu.edu.au> wrote:

>C++ Freak wrote:
>> 
>> I am experimenting with carbon arcs with a 150 amp electric welder.
>> I attach a carbon rod from a 4.5 V battery to the clamp terminal and 
another
>> rod via a thick copper wire to the welder's handpiece.
>> In a chamotte brick I carved a little crater of about 25 mm (1") 
diameter
>> and put some iron into it.
snip
>> glassy traces of melting (mp 2700 C). Not an option either. I might 
try
>> marble which I don't have at the moment which is more 'solid' CaCO3.
>> Graphite itself cannot be used as some metals dissolve the carbon.
>> Is there any refractory for such temperatures which does not
>> melt of vaporize too quickly ?
>> 
> Implying this to your 
>process one cold suggest that  you immerse your crucible in a water tub 

>and provide enough area so as to obtain an interface of powdered iron to 

>molten iron.(maybe)

snip




From randd@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:14 EDT 1996
Article: 32023 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bamboo??
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:19:20 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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To: CBear81438 <cbear81438@aol.com>

CBear81438 wrote:
> 
> In article <tap17-2507962038260001@vny0132.deltanet.com>,
> tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray) writes:
> 
> > Hi, gang; I've got this problem: I'm trying to lop off some thin
> >> slices of bamboo, maybe 1/8in. thick and 2 to 3in. o.d. The trouble is
> >> that the stuff sort of comes apart, particularly the "bark" on the
> >> outside.
> 
> Try one of those plastic pipe cutters that have the sharp blade.  Rotate
> the stock while cutting.   These things cut shrubbery great.
> 
> Cecil in OK

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>How about hacksaw with 32 tooth per inch blade. Cut around rather than through on the larger diameter pieces. Cut rather than crush.  Maybe.
Good Luck!!!
Randy


From rxg@crosfield.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:25:16 EDT 1996
Article: 32024 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rxg@crosfield.co.uk (Richard Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 29 Jul 1996 12:24:48 +0100
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Limited
Lines: 48
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NNTP-Posting-Host: suneng1.crosfield.co.uk

CBear81438(cbear81438@aol.com) replies to Kurt Rieder:

>>  Is there 
>>some way to do this with the usual rectifier diodes, diac and SCR
>>speed control system for a DC motor without burning it out at double
>>the rated voltage ?  My reason for asking this is that I have a
>>couple of very nice 48V DC (PM) motors that I would very much like 
>>to run on 110 volts with such a variable speed system.
>> 


>Yes there is, you can use a variac, or a controller.   You caould use a
>variac then run it through a bridge rectifier to supply your motors.   For
>the best power. you need a DC motor controller which gives the motor a DC
>pulse and the speed is worked out by the length of the pulse and the
>frequency.

>I just finished installing a 1.25 Hp PM motor on a 15 in Mill Drill, it
>works great.   It replaced a 2 Hp unit with no problem.  It will drill a
>1.25 in hole in 3/8 steel at 20 RPM or mill Al at 6000 RPM with only one
>belt change.

I offer some backbround information:

Autoranging power supplies (the switched-mode sort that are used in most
electronic apparatus) cope by using an input topology that requires no 
transformers or adjustment for mains voltage. They simply rectify whatever
mains voltage is present then apply it to an oscillator (operating at around
50 to 75 KHz) that creates high frequency pulses to a transformer. 
The output of the transformer is rectified to produce DC and a feedback system 
controls the oscillator to provide voltage stabilisation.

Since you require pulsed DC for the motor at around 100Hz I would guess that a
controller could be built that rectified whatever mains was available, used it
to drive an oscillator that pulsed energy into a reservoir capacitor until it
had enough energy in it for one pulse to the motor. This is then released and 
the reservoir recharged. As long as energy can be put into the reservoir faster
than it is taken out all is well. The hard bit is designing the oscillator 
since it usually involves inductive circuits with finite turn-off times and
huge back-emfs that cause overdissipation in the driver transistors. 

Mucking around with home-built switched mode supplies is usually to be 
discouraged - 350V DC rectified straight from the main bites!

Richard Griffin.





From dterrell@code802.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil Sat Aug  3 11:25:17 EDT 1996
Article: 32025 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Douglas P. Terrell" <dterrell@code802.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:53:21 -0500
Organization: Crane Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center
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dsg wrote:
> 

> A lot of his engines he says use wood lag. I assume that this for
> the O-Rings. Could someone clarify?
> 

> 
> Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?


I've always heard the term "lagging" refer to the insulation around the
boiler or cylinders. This was rather common on very early engines and
some models today. I suspect this is what he was refering to. 

Inside the cylinder with the moisture and pressure, wood would become
softer and more pliable. Those are the comditions (steam) to soften wood
to be bent.

Doug Terrell


From john@siu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:25:18 EDT 1996
Article: 32026 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions of Sherline Mills
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:32:25 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960726133126.2661i-100000@reliant>
References: <4t924l$8p7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <slrn4vgdsm.12v.rvanzant@van.inc.net> <09960626064033.OUI37.SLogan@gnn.com>
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One call does it all!
800-645-7270 is the MSC 800 number.

On 26 Jul 1996, Scott Logan wrote:

> In article <slrn4vgdsm.12v.rvanzant@van.inc.net>, From 
> rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant), the following was written:
> > Anyone have contact info on MSC?
> 
> They have a web site:
> 
> http://www.industry.net/msc
> 
>  
> 
> --
>   ---------------------------------------------------
>   From Scott Logan,
>   http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>   Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:19 EDT 1996
Article: 32027 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!admaix.sunydutchess.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nrchh45.rich.nt.com!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Message-ID: <212@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <4t9nuo$vum@news.chatlink.com>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:57:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Lines: 19

 
In article <4t9nuo$vum@news.chatlink.com>, dsg (soltherm@chatlink.com) writes:
>I got a catalog from a person who makes real nice plans for steam
>engines, built entirely from bar stock. One uses piston/cylinders
>from an auto. Need only 9" lathe or bigger.
>
>A lot of his engines he says use wood lag. I assume that this for
>the O-Rings. Could someone clarify?
>
<snip>

You haven't mis-heard or mis-understood?  If someone says wood,
lagging and steam engines in the same sentence then I would assume
that he/she was talking about the material strapped around the
outside of the cylinders to prevent unwanted cooling (steam
cylinders work better hot - no condensation).


 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sat Aug  3 11:25:20 EDT 1996
Article: 32028 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boiler Inspection: Good or Bad
Date: 26 Jul 1996 17:38:42 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 37
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References: <211@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

>From  what I remember of this accident, this was caused by an improperly
installed hand hole cover in a firetube boiler.  The cover yielded when the
boiler was being inspected, and the small stokehold contributed to the 
effect.

> BUT, and it is a big BUT, several have been maimed or killed as a
> result of the failure of steam fittings to the boiler.  Last year
> the owner of a steam-powered boat was killed when something gave
> way on his boat's vertical boiler, which did its best to convert
> several gallons of water instantly into steam in the small
> compartment shared by the boiler and its owner... and fittings
> such as water gauges and valves aren't tested.

I include my valves, water glass, etc in the yearly hydro.  The safety
is on a union so it's readily removable and a plug installed...

I'll be taking the Otter (see homepage) out for the first time this weekend
w/ her new boiler as a shakedown cruise... we're heading for Victoria BC
next month to participate in the Northwest Steam Society's steam boat
meet August 9, 10, and 11th in the inner harbour in front of the Empress Hotel.

On other topic, I was given a piece of 5/8" dia fused silica quartz tubing
with thick walls... I'm using it as a gage glass as it seems much tougher and
certainly thicker than the normal "RedLine" Pyrex.  Any comments on this?
It survived the first firing just fine... 


- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov Sat Aug  3 11:25:22 EDT 1996
Article: 32029 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: auto-darkening welding filters
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> wrote:

>  Secondly, perhaps an engineering type
>could answer my main concern about them, speed of filter versus, 
>the speed of light.  It is difficult for me to comprehend how the 
>filter could possibly respond to the change in light level fast 
>enough to prevent at least some damaging flash to hit my eyes.
>After all, isn't the **speed-of-light**  faster than the speed of the 
>electrical components in the helmet?  It sure appeared to me that 
>the brightness increased just prior to the helmet darkening.
>
The damage mechanism is due to the transfer of energy to sensitive
elements in your eye.  This transfer is related to several variables,
energy source intensity, distance between the source and your eye,
the filters characteristics, and time of exposure.  Damage to your
eye requires exposure for some amount of time (I do not know how
long).  So yes, you are correct in that the arc flash will reach your
eye before the filter can react. But this does not imply that the
auto-darkening filter is not doing it's job.  It is a lot like
getting a sunburn, you can be exposed to full sunlight at noon
without getting a burn, provided the exposure time is low enough. 

-Roger




From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:25:23 EDT 1996
Article: 32030 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wherefrom lard oil?
Date: 26 Jul 1996 10:18:59 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4taum3$2gk@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu


Lard oil is often recommended as the cutting fluid of choice for steel
yet I don't see it in any catalog, and my friend who works for an
industrial supply company can't find a source. Is this just
supermarket lard? TIA

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From frank@dsea.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:24 EDT 1996
Article: 32031 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Date: 26 Jul 1996 20:31:03 GMT
Organization: dsea.com
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And once again r.c.m seems to have solved another mystery.
Whence the term "lag bolt"?  Must be from the special bolts
used to hold wood to the outside of steam boilers.  These bolts
are no longer special, and almost everybody forgot about
what lag was.  

Am I right?  Lag was forgotten fifty years before I was born.




From brace@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:25 EDT 1996
Article: 32032 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 495136120@worldnet.att.net (Chris Serrano)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machinery auction, Ontario, California, 7-31-96
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:31:45 -0700
Organization: DIS
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <h+0+x0ljtwUf091yn@worldnet.att.net>
Reply-To: brace@worldnet.att.net
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X-Posting-Software: WSSoup 0.81 (UNREGISTERED)

I got a notice about an auction.  Some things listed are:

Bridgeport 1hp mill, 9 x 42, power feed, one shot lube

Maxmill 2hp 9 x 42, power feed, one shot lube

Monarch Model EE, 12 x 20" high speed tool room lathe, 5000 rpm, 2j
collet nose, taper, 3 and 4 jaw chucks

Info at:
510 256 8111 or 714 752 7207
fax 510 256 8436




-- 
Sometimes I like the weather in Long Beach, CA.


From brace@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:26 EDT 1996
Article: 32033 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 495136120@worldnet.att.net (Chris Serrano)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machinery auction, Las Vegas, august 9
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:27:40 -0700
Organization: DIS
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I got an auction notice with a couple of things that might be interesting:

Lagun 2hp Vmill, power feed, 9 x 42"

South bend CL-145B 12 x 30" geared lathe with 3 jaw

Info at:
510 256 8111 or 714 752 7207
fax 510 256 8436


-- 
Sometimes I like the weather in Long Beach, CA.


From steve_smith@cc.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:27 EDT 1996
Article: 32034 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes--CORRECTION
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Steven O. Smith wrote: (slightly in error)

> A combination which works great for me (several anvils) is a couple of
> Stoody rods. I'm pretty sure they are 1116 for buildup and 2110 for hard
> facing. These were the rods that the smiths at Sandia Nat'l Labs decided
> would work 'the best'. A guy named Hollis likes Certanium rods better;
> he says the stoody 2110 is a little soft.

My mistake. I checked the rod numbers at home last night. The Stoody
buildup rod should be 1105, not 1116. The hardfacing rod (2110) is
correct.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From fireman@mail.dbeach.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:28 EDT 1996
Article: 32035 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: horny man <fireman@mail.dbeach.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:59:32 -0400
Organization: home
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dsg wrote:
> 
> I got a catalog from a person who makes real nice plans for steam
> engines, built entirely from bar stock. One uses piston/cylinders
> from an auto. Need only 9" lathe or bigger.
> 
> A lot of his engines he says use wood lag. I assume that this for
> the O-Rings. Could someone clarify?
> 
> I have heard of using leather for the piston seal, but wood is a new
> one to me.
> 
> Will wooden O-Rings LAST?
> 
> Also, can someone comment on what amount the O-Rings
> need to be lubricated?
> 
> How much oil gets into the exhaust steam. I don't suppose
> the condesate is pottable.
> 
> Help appreciated.
> 
> dsg
> 
> Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?He probably means the outside cover on the engine is wood. "LAGGING" is 
the cover and insulation on a boiler and on some steam engines. I 
wouldn't thonk wood o'rings would last long if you could get them to 
seat.


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Sat Aug  3 11:25:30 EDT 1996
Article: 32036 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atomizing Nozzles
Date: 29 Jul 1996 20:45:23 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
Lines: 22
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Marty Jones (mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com) wrote:
: On a recent visit to Las Vegas, I noticed that several businesses on the strip had installed
: an interesting cooling apparatus - some very, very fine nozzles that sprayed water in such a fine 
: mist that you didn't actually feel wet - it was more like a fog - but apparently the subsequent
: evaporation cooled the carrier air over the sidewalk quite a bit.

: I was thinking I'd like to try making some of these for my patio, for the comfort of guests at 
: cookouts and watermelon feasts during these hot Dallas summers.  Anyone know the particulars
: of the system, such as nozzle construction and pressure required to get the fogging effect?

: I can say with fair certainty that the system did not atomize using an air jet, like a paint gun.  There
: was only one tube leading to the nozzles, which had to be water under pressure.

: Best Regards,

: Marty Jones


This method of evaporative cooling will work much better in the desert
at 10% humidity than in Dallas.




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:31 EDT 1996
Article: 32037 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:44:35 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4thc33$s8k@news1.svc>
References: <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com> <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org> <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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Hmmmm.

I always thought I should use my hands.

I've saved a lot of hot pieces of metal that way...
soldering irons, just welded metal, etc.

Next time I'll use my feet!  Guess I'd have to 
get rid of the steel toes in the Red Wings,
though.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:32 EDT 1996
Article: 32038 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:01:09 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4th9hl$h60@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tf07m$40l@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ren-nv3-16.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jul 28 10:01:09 PM CDT 1996

In <4tf07m$40l@buffnet2.buffnet.net> krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
writes: 
>
>I have noticed that some tools which are powered by motors with 
>continuously variable RPM also specify either 110 or 220 volts.
>An example are the Sherline lathe and mill where it is stated
>that the dual voltage is automatically compensated for by the
>control system... no changes required.
>
>Can anyone describe how this wide range of voltage is accommodated ?
>Surely there is not a step down transformer included ?  Is there 
>some way to do this with the usual rectifier diodes, diac and SCR
>speed control system for a DC motor without burning it out at double
>the rated voltage ?  My reason for asking this is that I have a
>couple of very nice 48V DC (PM) motors that I would very much like 
>to run on 110 volts with such a variable speed system.
> 

Kurt -

Controllers that automatically compensate for a wide range of input
voltage utilize armature voltage feedback to (1) sense the speed of the
motor and (2) limit average armature voltage to a value safe for the
motor.  Most controllers I've seen of this type are designed
specifically for the motor with which they are used (and that motor is
generally rated for 90 V.D.C.), and so would be unsuitable for your
application unless modified to limit the average armature voltage to 48
V.D.C.  I don't believe it would be a particularly complicated
modification however if that helps.

Regards,
Dale



From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:25:33 EDT 1996
Article: 32039 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: 29 Jul 1996 06:52:43 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 14
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References: <31F789B3.2D53@atc.alcoa.com> <4t87eo$rj9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <darylb-2507961543030001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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To: darylb@bnr.ca
X-URL: news:darylb-2507961543030001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca

>How about a stainless cup?
>
>Daryl

Even worse ! I tried it once for melting copper and brass and after one
use it leaked, as the copper dissolves thn nickel part easier than the
iron part.
Graphite crucibles are the best and not expensive. For $20 one can get a
500 cc (about 3 kg / 7 lbs of copper) crucible at a foundry supply store.
And they last long (> 20 times) and are virtually insensitive to rapid
temperature changes.

Klaas



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:34 EDT 1996
Article: 32040 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Varnish????
Date: 27 Jul 1996 01:20:33 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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I'm pretty certain that Kano Labs makes a paint-on protectant of some sort,
but I don't know if it's meant to stay clear.

You might just use a clear acrylic spray.


From steve_smith@cc.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:36 EDT 1996
Article: 32041 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Anvil Repair Electrodes
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> No, hard-facing should NOT be used on an anvil! I made that mistake
> once, trying to repair a 'hole' in the face of our 300lb. anvil at
> work. It welded up OK, but the first time I used it the HF shattered
> like glass. I finally used "Build-up" rods, which are soft at first,
> but work harden to a depth of about .040 with use. It's been holding
> up for about 10 years now...

Not necesarily true. Question: did you use build up rod under every bit
of the hard facing rod? If not, the hard facing rod wouldn't stick.

A combination which works great for me (several anvils) is a couple of
Stoody rods. I'm pretty sure they are 1116 for buildup and 2110 for hard
facing. These were the rods that the smiths at Sandia Nat'l Labs decided
would work 'the best'. A guy named Hollis likes Certanium rods better;
he says the stoody 2110 is a little soft.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From lisaclisac@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:37 EDT 1996
Article: 32042 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lisaclisac@aol.com (Lisaclisac)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to make phase converters?
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:19:12 -0400
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I know there has been alot of recent threads re phase converter
applications & troubleshooting. I've been following these but seek more
specific info on how to construct one using capacitors. I currently use
two 5 HP motors (for two different applications) to generate the third leg
and start these turning with "pony" motors. It would be nice (a luxury) to
flip a switch or close a contact to start the horses and get the ponys out
of the barn. (What it is when you are 30 miles from 3 phase).

Any help greatly appreciated. (Want to build a 40HP unit).

Thanks,
Mike

Lisac Ltd.
email:  lisaclisac@aol.com


From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:25:38 EDT 1996
Article: 32043 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Attach hard metal pins to 22 ct golden earring
Date: 29 Jul 1996 07:28:55 GMT
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I made golden earrings of .25 mm thick sheet of 22 ct gold
(gold with 4 % Ag and 4 % of Cu) and 0.8 mm thick wires of the same
alloy soldered to it. After many times of use (a year) the pins
(wires) broke (not at the solder joint), probably due to metal
fatigue. Is there a *hard* alloy without nickel which can easily
be soldered to the gold ? It does not need to be gold.
Using Ag Cu 28 is an option, but it's melting point is too low and thus hard
to solder.
I use 22 ct gold because of the 'real gold' color because 18 and particularly
14 ct gold look like the paler brass.

Klaas



From psh@islandnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:39 EDT 1996
Article: 32044 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jinan Lathe
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:47:04 -0700
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I am drooling over a Jinan lathe (14*44) made in mainland China. Does
anyone out there have any first hand experience on this make ?
I also looked at a  Chin Hung which is made in Taiwan and looks almost
identical but is priced 30% higher. Rumor has it that the lathe from
Chin Hung (or at least the castings) are made by Jinan - does anybody
know anything about this ? If this rumor is true than why would the
Chin Hung be so much more money - are there any other differences that
would justify the price difference ?
Any info is welcome.

Thanks

Jens


From anon@anonlthr.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:40 EDT 1996
Article: 32045 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anon@anonlthr.com (john wildermuth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old Fashioned Scroll/Fret Saw
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 20:37:23 GMT
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Tony O'seland <cdrwls@cynosure.netsites.net> wrote:

>We're looking for traditional foot powered scroll saw/fret saws.

>I know that they are still made, I've seen a few at other trade shows 
>being used.

>Anyone got any ideas?  Also foot powered lathes, too.

a couple years ago i picked up a book from fine woodworking magazine on
making and modifying tools.  there were plans on how to make a treddle
lathe and a foot powered resaw.  the resaw is much larger than what you
want, but could be scaled down.

if i ever get around to building the lathe, i'm going to add an extension
of the treddle outboard of the headstock, a pass through on the headstock,
and another tool rest, for turning bowls.

cheers.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
john wildermuth         | if you happen to find something on the floor
anonymous leather & mfg | of indeterminate shape and undescribable
519 castro st #38       | colour, it's my mind. i've lost it and would
san francisco, ca 94114 | like it back.
415.431.4555
anon@anonlthr.com



From adamp@mcs.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:41 EDT 1996
Article: 32046 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adamp@mcs.com (Adam Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wherefrom Lard Oil?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:10:28
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I have used lard oil with sign painters One Shot enamel paint. Brushes 
coated with lard oil keep for long periods of time without being ruined. I got 
my lard oil from the sign painters supply house.
adamp@mcs.com


From randd@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:42 EDT 1996
Article: 32047 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bronze Welding
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:33:50 -0500
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Anybody have any tips on welding bronze to bronze.  I need to weld small
pieces of sculpture together--1/8 to 1/4 inch thick pieces.  Have had 
some success with oxy rig and ice.  I would run about an inch bead, then
apply ice to the underside to solidify from the bottom up.  An old timer 
told me about this.  It works but is slow and consumes a lot of ice.  
Also a lot of grinding latter.
>>>>I've heard of other ways, but for me I just can't get a good bond. It would look good, but after a little grinding and dressing up, ping!
Back where I started.
>>>>Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks>>>
Randy


From carl@scott.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:43 EDT 1996
Article: 32048 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 04:55:59 GMT
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On 24 Jul 1996 11:48:48 -0400, debsamuels@aol.com (DebSamuels) wrote:

>I've enrolled in a blacksmithing workshop and was told to purchase a 1 1/2
>or 2 lb. cross peen hammer.  I am unfamiliar with this tool; any
>suggestions as to where I could find one?
>
>Thanks in advance!


   Sears sells a 2 1/2 lb cross pirn hammer in thier hardware
department.
   
   A crosspeen hammer has a standard engineer or sledge pattern hammer
on one face.  The other face ( where the ball is on a ball peen
hammer)  has a wedge shaped face that runs crosswise to the handle.

   BTW the best hammer I have ever used is a Nevada pattern 2 1/2 lb
hammer.  It has two long tapered faces.  It looks somewhat like a
railroad spike hammer but the faces are not as long.  I think it was
originally developed for driving drill steels in mines, such as
Nevadas silver mines.

					Carl Grinnell
					carlgrin@scott.net


From adamp@mcs.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:44 EDT 1996
Article: 32049 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adamp@mcs.com (Adam Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:19:33
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Then I thought about soldering up he
holes, sort of like a radiator repair.  Would this be a better sol'n than
welding?  I suppose if there are large areas of rust in there, I may be
better off cutting the section out and welding in a patch panel.  If
soldering is the way to go, where could I find the solder/flux (silver?),
and would one of those small propane torches be enough (that's what I've
got, no access to an  oxy/act rig).

If you going to solder steel I would suggest going to an autosupply store 
which carries leading products e.g. solder & flux, you should get a product 
called Tins-Titer which makes tinning the steel very easy. if you are using 
regular solder then you don't need anything more than a little propane torch 
to get the job done.
adamp@mcs.com


From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:45 EDT 1996
Article: 32050 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:20:32 -0700
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	--Lagging refers to an outside covering to the cylinder castings. 
It has several functions: 
	--It is decorative, i.e. it is usually composed of 
numerous strips of vertically-arrayed strips of a good wood, held in 
place with brightly polished brass banding and it 
	--It will (somewhat) protect the operator from a nasty burn if he 
bumps into the hot engine
	--it will hold heat in the engine better, particularly if a layer 
of insulation is placed between the bare iron and the wood lagging 
itself, thus (slightly) improving the performance of the engine.
	OBTW, it is also a royal pain to keep clean and some thought 
should be given about the best way to finish the wood before it is 
installed.  
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Time flies like an arrow 	
	COMING SOON		:	Fruit flies like a banana...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:46 EDT 1996
Article: 32051 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "Erector" Sets, anyone??
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:32:52 -0700
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	Hello, all! 
	--One of the neatest "tools" in my quiver is an old Automat #2000 
"mechanical breadboarding kit", a kind of high-end Erector set (I'm using 
it now to put together a gear train with a linear output at the last 
stage). What I'd like to do is to get in contact with anyone else who 
might have pieces for these systems kicking around in a closet, since the 
kit I got was not complete. In particular I woudl like to get my hands on 
some more frame pieces and either the Gear Motor set or the Variable Speed 
Motor. 
	--TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Time flies like an arrow 	
	COMING SOON		:	Fruit flies like a banana...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From gdgoen19@eos Sat Aug  3 11:25:47 EDT 1996
Article: 32052 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@eos>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Soft iron electroplate?
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 00:41:46 -0400
Organization: 'Exodus Online Service'
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On Thu, 25 Jul 1996, Steve Gray wrote:

> In article <bconner-2307960944390001@mfd-dial1-9.cybercom.net>,
> bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) wrote:
> 
> > Is there some way to lay down an electroplated layer of iron?  Anybody
> > have any info on solutions, current densities, etc?  Seems like it could
> > be done and I need it for a special project.
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > 
> > Bruce Conner
> > bconner@cybercom.net
> 
>    If I am correct, some good soldering irons have a coating of iron. If
> so, plating must be possible. Calling Weller might at least confirm
> whether they are so plated. I don't know any more.
>    Please post  your findings.
> 
> 

Radio Shack does (or did, haven't bought any new ones lately) sell
iron coated (plated?) tips for their component style soldering iron.
The iron coated tips have much better wear characteristics than the
plain copper.

Hope this helps

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net




From  Sat Aug  3 11:25:48 EDT 1996
Article: 32053 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: (Gregory F Stiel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tubing bender
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 04:16:18 GMT
Organization: Zippo
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This is a post for my brother who is looking for a mandrell tube
bender preferable with shoes  for O.D. tubing. Please E-Mail if you
have one to part with.   Thanks

                                 Greg Stiel
                                gstiel@ix.netcome.com


From pwc@sk.sympatico.ca Sat Aug  3 11:25:49 EDT 1996
Article: 32054 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Currie <pwc@sk.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Model steam engine catalogs
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:44:11 -0700
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Can anyone supply me with addresses of company that imports German made 
model boiler and steam engines? I had one as a child and would like to  
purchase one now, but don`t know where. Please E-mail addresses if you 
wouldn`t mind.
Thanks in advance.


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Sat Aug  3 11:25:51 EDT 1996
Article: 32055 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:33:48 -0400
Organization: University of Maryland at Baltimore
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To: DebSamuels <debsamuels@aol.com>
In-Reply-To: <4t5gl0$pn2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>

I purchased two cross peen hammers at Sears.  At the blacksmithing
workshop, ask to look at their copy of the Centaur Forge Catalog. It 
tends to be on the expensive end of the scale, but they pretty much 
carry almost everything.  Also, check with your local flea-market 
folks specializing in old tools.  Cross peen hammers are fairly
common in the old tool piles at flea markets.  

On 24 Jul 1996, DebSamuels wrote:

> I've enrolled in a blacksmithing workshop and was told to purchase a 1 1/2
> or 2 lb. cross peen hammer.  I am unfamiliar with this tool; any
> suggestions as to where I could find one?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:52 EDT 1996
Article: 32056 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!news
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wherefrom lard oil?
Date: 29 Jul 1996 14:52:16 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4tij70$7v7@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
References: <4taum3$2gk@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lbsc.shr.dec.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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To: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU

I found some, about 15 years ago, at an old-time hardware store that
has since gone out of business.  I expect they'd had it sitting around
for a few decades before that.  It works pretty well for cutting threads,
but I think sulphur cutting oil is just as good.

These days, I doubt anybody uses lard oil for cutting fluid commercially 
anymore. Modern technology has come out with so many designer cutting
fluids, there's a custom compound for every job.



From davida05@sprynet.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:53 EDT 1996
Article: 32057 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: <davida05@sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: 29 Jul 1996 15:02:55 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <4tijqv$9g6@juliana.sprynet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ad14-056.compuserve.com
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X-Newsreader: AIR Mosaic (16-bit) version 4.16.09.32


Has anyone constructed a homemade induction brazing coil powered from
a salvaged home microwave oven?  I think the usual oven is rated around
1000 watts, so it should provide enough power for a small coil, say maybe
1-inch inside diameter.  I want to join brass to 1/8-inch O-1 drill rod and make
a nice clean joint without any surplus squirting out the edges.  I've used
paste of silver/flux and also stick silver solder with a propane torch, but
haven't developed the skills to make a perfect joint.  According to the
AWS, for a tubular type joint, the space allowed for the filler metal should
be around 0.002 to 0.005 inches.  Any comments will be welcome. Dave


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sat Aug  3 11:25:54 EDT 1996
Article: 32058 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 29 Jul 1996 15:22:10 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4tikv2$bqq@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <4tf07m$40l@buffnet2.buffnet.net> <4tg64d$qqf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <31FBD805.2E25@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ginsu.acs.oakland.edu

In article <31FBD805.2E25@ix.netcom.com> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:
[snip]
>I'd really like a softer start up of my gear head lathe.  I grew up fooling
>(and I do mean fooling) with a 10" Logan flat belt drive.  That sudden startup 
>of the gearrhead and the noise of gears still gets to me after a year.
>
>I'm just finishing up a table feed (PIM) with a windshield wiper motor that looks 
>(to me) to be promising.
>
>Paul in AJ AZ
>
>

The latest Projects in Metal has an article about adapting an automobile
air conditioner clutch to a small lathe to serve as both a clutch and a
spindle brake.  I thought it was a pretty clever adaptation.


I'll be changing addresses soon and probably will lose posting ability
for a while.  You can get to me at paul@AuroraGrp.Com
--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:55 EDT 1996
Article: 32059 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Atomizing Nozzles
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:14:14 GMT
Organization: TI
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4tbcf6$bu4@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
Reply-To: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: cna0128981.dseg.ti.com
X-Newsreader: News Version 5.0 from Hummingbird Communications Ltd.

On a recent visit to Las Vegas, I noticed that several businesses on the strip had installed
an interesting cooling apparatus - some very, very fine nozzles that sprayed water in such a fine 
mist that you didn't actually feel wet - it was more like a fog - but apparently the subsequent
evaporation cooled the carrier air over the sidewalk quite a bit.

I was thinking I'd like to try making some of these for my patio, for the comfort of guests at 
cookouts and watermelon feasts during these hot Dallas summers.  Anyone know the particulars
of the system, such as nozzle construction and pressure required to get the fogging effect?

I can say with fair certainty that the system did not atomize using an air jet, like a paint gun.  There
was only one tube leading to the nozzles, which had to be water under pressure.

Best Regards,

Marty Jones


From writt@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:25:56 EDT 1996
Article: 32060 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.dgsys.com!en.com!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!samba.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!olivea!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FYI B & D Motors
Date: 30 Jul 1996 02:39:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4tkamf$kke@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

For anyone interested not all Black & Decker electric mowers are PM DC
type. I have a motor from a twin blade moer that is a universal type run
on AC. Does anyone know  of a source for 90V PM DC motors at surplus
prices? TIA.

Bill Rittner


From douglas@praxis.net Sat Aug  3 11:25:58 EDT 1996
Article: 32061 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!newsboy.utelfla.com!news.pig.net!news
From: douglas@praxis.net (Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Wanted: Lost wax casters
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 07:07:49 GMT
Organization: DOUGLAS (http://galaxymall.com/shops/douglas.html)
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4tkcjd$q48@news.pig.net>
References: <4tj8oa$rgl@st-james.comp.vuw.ac.nz>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32061 rec.models.railroad:68854

Drop  me a line with your needs. I have 30 years experience
with LW casting.



BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul) wrote:

>>I am looking for someone to cast small model railway parts in brass by the 
>>lost wax process.  My current caster is very slow (a year!), pretty expensive 
>>and rather mediocre quality-wise.

>>My requirements are modest (but will hopefully grow) and I am interested 
>>primarily in quality with price and promptness of lesser importance.

>>Any suggestions (preferably with full fax/email address - I'm in New Zealand) 
>>would be gratefully received.  Please post here or email direct to 
>>boull@agresearch.cri.nz

>>Thanks

>>Lawrence

Respectfully,

Douglas

           "He who knows he knows, knows nothing.
            He who knows he knows nothing, really knows."

                                             Spooky Tooth



From IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET Sat Aug  3 11:25:59 EDT 1996
Article: 32062 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!main.Germany.EU.net!fu-berlin.de!zrz.TU-Berlin.DE!news.dfn.de!news.kfa-juelich.de!djukfa11!iff161
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 13:43:08 +02
From: Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Message-ID: <96209.134308IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Solar Quest..........
Lines: 5

May I suggest, if you cannot work this out yourself, you are probably working
in the wrong field!


                     Bob


From BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz Sat Aug  3 11:26:00 EDT 1996
Article: 32063 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!comp.vuw.ac.nz!LIN042
From: BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Wanted: Lost wax casters
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 19:58:33 GMT
Organization: AgResearch, Lincoln
Lines: 14
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32063 rec.models.railroad:68860

I am looking for someone to cast small model railway parts in brass by the 
lost wax process.  My current caster is very slow (a year!), pretty expensive 
and rather mediocre quality-wise.

My requirements are modest (but will hopefully grow) and I am interested 
primarily in quality with price and promptness of lesser importance.

Any suggestions (preferably with full fax/email address - I'm in New Zealand) 
would be gratefully received.  Please post here or email direct to 
boull@agresearch.cri.nz

Thanks

Lawrence


From jlovallo@mixcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:01 EDT 1996
Article: 32064 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: (Q:) Castable Refractory Mixture
Date: 29 Jul 1996 22:49:29 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <4tjf5p$9v8@homer.alpha.net>
References: <4tfiv5$kl7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial43-12.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

Check with Pyramid Products Inc (address in the FAQ),  They carry a very good
castable refractable.

John


From rvanzant@van.inc.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:02 EDT 1996
Article: 32065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.inc.net!rvanzant
From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tubing bender
Date: 27 Jul 1996 15:13:42 GMT
Organization: Internet Connect, Inc. The Wisconsin ISP 414-476-4266 http://www.inc.net
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <slrn4vkcjp.1pf.rvanzant@van.inc.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.95.162.198
X-Newsreader: slrn (0.8.8.4 (BETA) UNIX)

>This is a post for my brother who is looking for a mandrell tube
>bender preferable with shoes  for O.D. tubing. Please E-Mail if you
>have one to part with.

     Mail me if you have 2, as I'm looking for one also.  Although
a smaller air bender is probably what I should be looking for, I'd
love to find an affordable hydraulic Pines with lots of tooling.

bob



From drewid@lanminds.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:03 EDT 1996
Article: 32066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Etching...
Date: 29 Jul 1996 23:08:18 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <4tjg92$cn2@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.93.960724132504.17707A-100000@reality> <ncliffe-2507960957090001@132.146.65.223>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.174.208.227
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X-URL: news://news.lanminds.com/ncliffe-2507960957090001@132.146.65.223

ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe) wrote:
>In article <Pine.SV4.3.93.960724132504.17707A-100000@reality>, "N. S. A."
><jombi@microserve.net> wrote:
>
>> I need any information regarding the process by which one etches metals
>> (most importantly brass) using a rectifier and an electrolyte.  The
>> process seems to be much like metal plating, except you remove the metal
>> from the workpiece.  Although any information would greatly help me, I am
>> most interested in the composition of the electrolyte (chemicals,
>> concentrations, temperature, what type of cathode should be used, ect.)
>
[There were some people named Behr who worked out a method of doing this
for fine-art etchings under a Lindbergh Foundation grant.They tried a
 traditional hard ground as well as a photoresist, and both seemed to work.
 They reported good success in ink retention, doing away with the strong 
acids usually used to prepare etching plates. Basically, their system was an 
electroforming setup run backwards.]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:05 EDT 1996
Article: 32067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: 27 Jul 1996 16:00:45 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <31F04AFA.3040@ix.netcom.com> <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 13-188.client.gnn.com
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 27 Jul 1996 16:00:45 GMT
X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5

In article <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>, From Abrasha 
<abrasha@abrasha.com>, the following was written:
> McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a 
> penny of business, because of the way they treat potential customers.

Your loss, we deal with them all the time, and never have any problems. 
In fact, often if we make a mistake in ordering, our own fault, they
will send a call tag, or tell us to keep it, and issue a credit anyway. 
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From jnlrlf@argo.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:06 EDT 1996
Article: 32068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.winterlan.com!news1.agis.net!agis!zeus!news
From: jnlrlf@argo.net (Jon Rolfe)
Subject: Re: Brother of HF; how much to make a corpse
Message-ID: <DvBCDD.3JD@argo.net>
Sender: news@argo.net (Usenet News Account)
Nntp-Posting-Host: pm19.argo.net
Organization: Argo.net
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References: <96194.201612IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET> <4s7ege$f6t@newsreader.wustl.edu> <4soghl$2v8@nyx10.cs.du.edu> <Pine.SOL.3.93.960723171530.14815E-100000@spork.callamer.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:27:12 GMT
Lines: 21

I lost my fingertips due to worn rubber gloves.  There is no unpleasant 
sensation or other warning till it is too late, and the area darkens 
due to subcutaneous bleeding.  The fluoride ion locks up Ca, and the 
tissues die.
The local hospital was unaware of the antidote, calcium gluconate, 
which if injected into the site in time can save the tissues.

While it does not hurt upon exposure, the recovery does.  A LOT. Much 
more than  motorcycle accident, or other things I have sampled.

Watch out for the stuff.
-- 
***********************************************************************
See my evolving Homepage at http://www.argo.net/~jnlrlf/welcome.htm
Not available in stores.  Void where prohibited.  Operators are 
standing by.
Contents may have settled in shipping, but this URL contains the full 
stated data.
Contains no 1-Hydroxy 3-amyl 6,6,9-trimethyldibenzopyrans.
***********************************************************************



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:07 EDT 1996
Article: 32069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!nntp04.primenet.com!news.shkoo.com!nntp.primenet.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: (Q:) Castable Refractory Mixture
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:55:45 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <31FE3081.64FA@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tfiv5$kl7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4tl9he$e0g@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------27C47A64C92"
X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Jul 30  8:55:12 AM PDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Bruce Freeman <freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------27C47A64C92
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bruce Freeman wrote:
> 
> rotoflite@aol.com (Roto Flite) wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know of a good home blend castable refractory recipe, or a
> > source   for a good commercial mix?      Any help greatly appreciated!
> > Thanks.
> 
> There are recipes available for sand/fire clay mixtures that will
> do the trick.  Gingery's book on the charcoal-fired furnace (from
> Lindsay Publications) has a recipe.
> 
> You might do better to just buy a commercial castable refractory.
> One company that makes these is A.P. Green of Mexico, MO.  They will
> send you a catalog of their product line (on beyond castables) if you
> ask.  Any company dealing with them can order it for you.  I got
> two kinds from a local boiler repair place.  They stocked one, but
> had to order the other.
> 
> Bruce

--------------27C47A64C92
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Harness.txt"


WINSTON HARNESS
METALCASTER

PERSONAL AND COMMERCIAL CASTING

Web pages

http://ourworld.compuserv.com/homepages/brnzcaster

E-mail: 

brnzcast@sprynet.com


--------------27C47A64C92
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="LINDSAY.txt"

Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------27C47A64C92--



From vrbass@indirect.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:08 EDT 1996
Article: 32070 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!nntp04.primenet.com!news.shkoo.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.cais.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!globe.indirect.com!usenet
From: vrbass@indirect.com (Vance Bass)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Model steam engine catalogs
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:08:25 GMT
Organization: 
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <4tlc0d$os3@globe.indirect.com>
References: <31FD931B.4025@sk.sympatico.ca> <4tk71e$5l5@news.chatlink.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: s2.abq-dialin2.hollyberry.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

soltherm@chatlink.com (dsg) wrote:
>Paul Currie <pwc@sk.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>::Can anyone supply me with addresses of company that imports German made 
>::model boiler and steam engines?
>Use Deja News  searcher, and search on steam engine  faq faq
>poke around a bit, and you should find some leads.

You're probably looking for Diamond Enterprises in the US.  Their
address, phone numbers, etc. are on my Small-Scale Live Steam
Resources web page at
http://www.indirect.com/www/vrbass/steamfaq.htm

regards,
  -v-

Vance Bass                
Small-scale live steam homepage at http://www.indirect.com/www/vrbass
=====================================
The steam locomotive teaches us that the railway age was a totally
viable and a civilised alternative to the hideous consequences of
basing national economies on road transportation.  -- Colin Garratt



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:10 EDT 1996
Article: 32071 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Books, Advice Please
Date: 30 Jul 1996 16:49:09 GMT
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I really like "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.  It's available
>from  Lindsay Publications.

Perhaps my favorite is "The Amateur's Lathe" by L.H. Sparey.  It's
a British book, available from TEE Publishing in England as well as
some domestic sources (try the usual ones like Coles', Power Model
Supply, Saturated Steam, etc.  Addresses in FAQ.)
The frontispiece photo of the author at his lathe, in shop coat
and necktie, is itself nearly worth the price of admission.



From rmorris@alaska.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:11 EDT 1996
Article: 32072 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net (Dick Morris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: (Q:) Castable Refractory Mixture
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 04:39:20 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
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rotoflite@aol.com (Roto Flite) wrote:

>Does anyone know of a good home blend castable refractory recipe, or a
>source   for a good commercial mix?      Any help greatly appreciated!
>Thanks.

Look under "refractories" in the yellow pages. I got some several
years ago at E.J. Bartells. I think they are national. It came in a
bag about the size of a cement bag. You should know about what
temperature range you need. 

Dick Morris
Anchorage, Alaska



From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:26:12 EDT 1996
Article: 32073 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Heat Hardening Sterling Silver Knife?
Date: 30 Jul 1996 09:58:43 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 9
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Not really.
Sterling silver can be heat hardened by recrystallization.
It should be heated to 350 C (600 F) for a few hours which equals
50 % deformation rate. However, this requires a furnace with an even
distribution of temperature and good temperature control.
An electric muffle furnace may do the job well.

Klaas



From pdrumm@dwave.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:13 EDT 1996
Article: 32074 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: 30 Jul 1996 10:35:39 GMT
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In message <4tijqv$9g6@juliana.sprynet.com> - <davida05@sprynet.com>
writes:
:->
:->
:->Has anyone constructed a homemade induction brazing coil powered from
:->a salvaged home microwave oven?  I think the usual oven is rated around
:->1000 watts, so it should provide enough power for a small coil, say maybe
:->1-inch inside diameter.  I want to join brass to 1/8-inch O-1 drill rod and make
:->a nice clean joint without any surplus squirting out the edges.  I've used
:->paste of silver/flux and also stick silver solder with a propane torch, but
:->haven't developed the skills to make a perfect joint.  According to the
:->AWS, for a tubular type joint, the space allowed for the filler metal should
:->be around 0.002 to 0.005 inches.  Any comments will be welcome. Dave

Microwave ovens use high voltage, around 4000VDC at the magnetron, so
1000 watts would only be .25 amp. Not enough to warm up much of
anything.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From after5studio@voyager.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:14 EDT 1996
Article: 32075 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: suzette perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal alloying furnace
Date: 27 Jul 1996 17:15:42 GMT
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Corwin,

I have a book called "The Metalcaster's Bible" which has information on 
building a cupola. I believe that is what your looking for. I have no 
experience casting (except in high school shop class about 10 years ago) 
but I plan to build a small gas furnice and start with aluminum as soon 
as I can find a sorce for ingots. I dread paying shipping cost from far 
away.

Brian


---------------------------------3237581031361
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From: stingwcw95@aol.com (StingWCW95)
Reply-To: stingwcw95@aol.com (StingWCW95)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal alloying furnace
Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:09:30 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Message-ID: <4tbq8a$9ho@newsbf02.news.aol.com>

Does anyone have any plans on building a furnace that uses charcoal to
melt brass, copper, silver, aluminum, and pot metal? If so, please e-mail
it to me. Also, will plaster of paris work for casting brass, silver, or
copper?


Corwin
StingWCW95@aol.com
I'm not the wrestler or singer Sting.

---------------------------------3237581031361--


From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Sat Aug  3 11:26:15 EDT 1996
Article: 32076 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: 30 Jul 1996 16:00:17 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
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In article <4tkohr$e34@blackice.winternet.com> pdrumm@dwave.net writes:
>In message <4tijqv$9g6@juliana.sprynet.com> - <davida05@sprynet.com>
>writes:
>:->
>:->
>:->Has anyone constructed a homemade induction brazing coil powered from
>:->a salvaged home microwave oven?  I think the usual oven is rated around
>:->1000 watts, so it should provide enough power for a small coil, say maybe
>:->1-inch inside diameter.  I want to join brass to 1/8-inch O-1 drill rod and make
<snip>
>Microwave ovens use high voltage, around 4000VDC at the magnetron, so
>1000 watts would only be .25 amp. Not enough to warm up much of
>anything.
>

I don't think this is possible.  There really isn't much in a microwave,
mostly a big honking transformer, a diode, maybe a capacitor and the
magnetron.  Any metal in a microwave oven turns out to be really bad news.
It generates all manner of interesting arcs, but that won't be very useful.

If I understand induction systems, you run a high power RF source through
the induction coil in which the item you're heating is in the center.
Microwaves are too short to handle in that manner; you have to run
them through waveguides.  Leaking microwaves are also rather unpleasant
since they cook food by being absorbed by water molecules and making them
vibrate (ie get hot).  This is in addition to the lethal nature of the
voltages involved.

Lindsay had a book on induction principles.  You could probably put
something together using a couple of 801s or similar high power RF
tubes (check out a radio amateur's handbook).  Still, this would not
be easy; RF work is pretty wierd and getting the power transfered to
where you want it (rather than, say, dissipating on the plates of the
tubes) is no small trick.  And, turning it on will probably get the 
FCC on your back.  They take a pretty dim view of blanking out radio 
reception for a multi-block area :-)  Still, this avenue is possible,
but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who didn't have experience building
and handling high power RF equipment.  That stuff is pretty dangerous.
Forget the microwave though.


--
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu         
               URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth


From wnrich01@homer.louisville.edu Sat Aug  3 11:26:16 EDT 1996
Article: 32077 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Richmond <wnrich01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lard oil
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 11:56:08 -0700
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
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Steve Rayner wrote:
> 
> I have never been able to find lard oil in this area.  I do use
> supermarket lard for machining aluminum.  It is brushed on, and works
> very well.  When drilling holes, just dip the drill in the lard first.
> There is a company in one of the suburbs of Louisville, Ky., across the 
river in Indiana (New Albany, I think) that makes lard oil and such 
products.  I had one of their chemists describing the process to me.  It 
seems to be animal fat (lard) that is liquid at room temperature. 
	The company is George Pfau, but I don't have the exact address 
handy.
	I beleive that McMaster-Carr lists lard oil, but it is about 
$12.00 a gallon.
	Many people say lard works as well.  I haven't got around to 
trying it, but I hope to soon.


From xcprhb@oryx.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:17 EDT 1996
Article: 32078 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: 30 Jul 1996 22:31:54 GMT
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A perfect joint won't be any easier w/ an induction coil.  You still
have to apply the correct amount of filler metal and flux.  The coil
just provides better heat control in repetitive operations, since you
can use the oven time mechanism to turn the current on and off.

The thing to do is strip the high voltage secondary winding and put on
a low voltage secondary in its place.  Put on a trial 10 turn winding
to find out how many turns you need for the output voltage you want.

Naturally, you'll need to size the new secondary winding for the current
it's expected to carry.  

If this is unfamiliar ground, you probably should learn more about transformers
before you tackle this particular project...

Just remember:

   1) Don't exceed the VA rating of the original windings

   2) Don't electrocute yourself.

   3) If you don't have experience w/ this stuff find someone who does to
      help you.  It's not hard to do, but mother nature is VERY unforgiving
      when you fool w/ power in the KVA range.  Even at low potentials the
      current can burn you pretty severely.  At high potentials it's so
      dangerous it's ridiculous.

The original transformer secondary output is EXTREMELY dangerous.  Don't
even THINK about applying power to it unless it's in a high voltage cage.

Any attempt to measure the voltage w/o a high voltage probe is guaranteed
to be fatal!

Have fun!

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pyroware@flash.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:19 EDT 1996
Article: 32079 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie needs advice on mill choice for model airplanes, etc.
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 10:12:50 -0500
Organization: PyroWare
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Hi Chip (great name for metal work!)

All my machines are manual but I am reasonably aware of CNC and its
capabilities.  Your emphasis seems to be on the computer side instead of
the machine side... I think you need to flip-flop here.  CNC computers
don't need a lot of horsepower... just enough to run the CAM software. 
Most CAD programs output what is known as G-code which is really a very
simple set of instructions telling the CAM machine what commands to send
to the stepper motors.  The Sherline machine is a very nice little setup
with gobs of accessories, and I bet great for small runs but for typical
rc aircraft, you are going to need an NC Bridgeport or similar.  You're
looking at 5 figures EASY for used equipment, over 6 figures for new and
deluxe.

Rather than NC, you may want to consider tracer equipment.  One-off a
master pattern, then trace out additional moldings or whatever as desired.


Resins are extremely abrasive and will wreck ex$pensive tooling and
machines without precautions.

It's daunting but don't give up!  :-)

Kurt Bjorn
PyroWare

> chameleo@ix.netcom.com(Charles Harrison ) wrote in article
<4thg8d$cdj@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>...
> Hi all,
> 
> I just discovered this group through Home Shop Machinist and I was
> hoping someone could give me some guidance. I am interested in doing
> numerically controlled milling (if its called something else please let
> me know). I would like to make fuselages, wings, etc., for model
> airplanes that will be suitable positives for eventual resin casting. 
> 



From kimberln@crl.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:20 EDT 1996
Article: 32080 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jinan Lathe
Date: 30 Jul 1996 17:13:07 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
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In article <31fd8e72.175170544@news.islandnet.com>,
Jens <psh@islandnet.com> wrote:
>I asked the group a few days ago about any and all opinions on Jinan
>lathes as well as Chin Hung lathes. I only received a single reply !!!
>Does this mean that there are no Jinan lathes out there or does it
>mean that the Jinan owners need a reminder to share their knowledge
>and experience ?
>
>Reminder:
>Hey, if you know something about Jinan lathes, PLEASE post or email
>your collected wisdom.
>
>Thanks 
>Jens

Jens, I have a Jet lathe but I can't tell if it is a Jinan or Chin Hung 
or what.  If there were a way to tell about who manufactured it, perhaps 
a lot of responses could be obtained.  I know Jet is made in China 
(Taiwan or Mainland, wherever) but it has been rebranded Jet.  Maybe what 
we need here is some information from the various importers or some 
information from Jinan or Chin Hung as to what brands they apply to 
lathes they export.

I don't think we are reticent to reply to you - I think we don't know the 
answer.  I will look into this since I have many Chinese friends who can 
read the characters and tell me who made my Jet and maybe suggest something.

JerryK


From vrbass@indirect.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:21 EDT 1996
Article: 32081 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vrbass@indirect.com (Vance Bass)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Advice on bandsaw or cutoff saw sought
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:13:28 GMT
Organization: 
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I'm still working (slowly) on getting a shop set up, and now it
appears that the next piece of large equipment should be a bandsaw or
cutoff saw.  The range of choices is large, though, and the prices for
those machines go from $300 to $6000.  Needless to say, I'm confused.

I will be working with bar materials of less than 2 or 2.5 inches, and
pipe of less than 3 inches (1:20 scale locomotive materials).

I would like to hear advice and experiences with sizes, types, etc.
Do I want a horizontal or vertical?  Is automatic feed a must? 
Could I get by with a cutoff saw for this type of work?  Thanks for
any and all words of wisdom.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass                
Small-scale live steam homepage at http://www.indirect.com/www/vrbass
=====================================
The steam locomotive teaches us that the railway age was a totally
viable and a civilised alternative to the hideous consequences of
basing national economies on road transportation.  -- Colin Garratt



From felice@pioneer.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:23 EDT 1996
Article: 32082 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atomizing Nozzles
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:14:42 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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Irrigation stores have all manner of interesting misting nozzles, and lots
of parts for different applications.
In article <4tbcf6$bu4@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com> mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty 
Jones) writes:>From: mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com (Marty Jones)
>Subject: Atomizing Nozzles
>Date: 26 Jul 1996 21:14:14 GMT

>On a recent visit to Las Vegas, I noticed that several businesses on the strip had installed
>an interesting cooling apparatus - some very, very fine nozzles that sprayed water in such a fine 
>mist that you didn't actually feel wet - it was more like a fog - but apparently the subsequent
>evaporation cooled the carrier air over the sidewalk quite a bit.


>I was thinking I'd like to try making some of these for my patio, for the comfort of guests at 
>cookouts and watermelon feasts during these hot Dallas summers.  Anyone know the particulars
>of the system, such as nozzle construction and pressure required to get the fogging effect?


>I can say with fair certainty that the system did not atomize using an air jet, like a paint gun.  There
>was only one tube leading to the nozzles, which had to be water under pressure.


>Best Regards,


>Marty Jones



From 74106.35@compuserve.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:24 EDT 1996
Article: 32083 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 74106.35@compuserve.com (Ed Chejlava)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seeking more help, small diameter milling in soft alum.
Date: 27 Jul 1996 19:58:14 GMT
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In message <4sf8mb$ra0@news1.mnsinc.com> - Steve Stallings <> writes:
:>
:>Many thanks to those who have taken the time to reply to my question about
:>milling in soft aluminum panels. (Electronics, complex shapes, 1/8" dia.
:>milling cutter, 0.050" soft aluminum panels)
:>
:>Responses lead me to offer more details.  Usage is in a small (5 person) 
:>electronics company needing to cut many copies of same panel.  We have the 
:>ability to deal with CNC in a roll-your-own fashion, and have cheap access 
:>to a good XY table, but are novices at metal working. Efforts at cutting
:>with our 2400 RPM mill (vertical head on EMCO V10P using power feed on
:>lathe to move table) and a 2 flute cutter succeed only at feed rates
:>that seem to take forever!
:>
:>Carbide cutters running at a higher SFM rate and dry cutting would be nice
:>to speed up cutting and keep mess to a minimum.  Maybe a shop-vac could be 
:>rigged to remove chips and cool the cutter and aluminum at the same time.
:>
:>Still interested in "alternative" spindle approaches to use with a roll-
:>your-own CNC setup.  Are the bearings in a router or die grinder up to 
:>the side loads?  Do all routers and electric die grinders have series or 
:>universal motors that are subject to major speed variation with load?
:>Would even consider opening motor and rewiring to proper DC controls
:>for shunt mode operation if a knowledgeable source verifies that this
:>is reasonable. Routers seem to offer acceptable collet arrangments and
:>are small enough to manage in some sort of "Z" axis arangement. Other 
:>ideas for "spindle" are welcome.
:>
:>Yes, punching has been considered.  We even have a small manual turrent
:>punch, but .... custom punches cost a fortune (we would need over a dozen
:>sets at appx. $500 per set) and step/repeat (nibbling) does not work well 
:>in a manual punch (and risks damaging punchs as noted by Mr. Hoffmeyer).
:>
:>This news group deserves great credit for content and educational value
:>to novices. I look forward to future involvement.  Perhaps we can help
:>with issues related to electronics and control systems, though we do not
:>have a machine tool background.
:>
:>Please respond with posts to this group, E-Mail address not ready yet.
:>
:>Thanks,  Steve Stallings
:>
Steve:

Just visited my brother who had modified a plasma cutting machine to serve as 
a plasma arc for a chemistry experiment.  We played with the device a bit and 
if you don't need real "machined" tolerances, it looks like it might be worth 
a gander.  Tool Crib has a similar machine for about $1k.  Basically, its a 
small nozzle with air blowing through it, and you generate an arc between the 
nozzle and the workpiece that melts the work, which is then blown away by the 
air..... really fast - cut as fast as we could move our hands in a sheet of 
about 1/32" steel......   

Ed C.

When I grow up, I want to be an HVAC guy.  

..Any job where duct tape is the CORRECT tool has to be great.



From violette@lightlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:25 EDT 1996
Article: 32084 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.lightlink.com!usenet
From: violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  (Martin Violette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ
Date: 30 Jul 1996 18:44:20 GMT
Organization: ART MATRIX - LIGHTLINK
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Reply-To: violette@lightlink.com (Martin Violette)
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Could someone please give me the FAQ location for this group? (new subscriber)  Many thanks... martin


From ranson@infoave.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:26 EDT 1996
Article: 32085 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-5.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!news1.sunbelt.net!dial-3
From: ranson@infoave.net (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace
Subject: ArtSearch - Search Site for Art and Crafts
Date: 30 Jul 1996 19:26:25 GMT
Organization: Info Avenue INTERNET Access
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.beads:8346 rec.crafts.jewelry:13286 rec.crafts.marketplace:8378 rec.crafts.metalworking:32085 rec.crafts.misc:22618 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4513 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:72928 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:25221 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:19600 rec.crafts.textiles.yarn:12170 rec.crafts.winemaking:12141 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:7027 rec.crafts.glass:2833 rec.crafts.pottery:2331 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:1125 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:301

We invite you to add your site to our database. We have a very accurate search 
 and major categories to narrow the users search.

URL   http://www.ro.com/artsearch

We are also seeking sponcer(s) for ArtSearch. A sponser will recieve a Banner 
add in exchange on the approciate page.

Thank you all for supporting ArtSearch
Ray 


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:26:27 EDT 1996
Article: 32086 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: 30 Jul 1996 21:05:09 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <darylb-3007961709590001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4t5gl0$pn2@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.A32.3.94.960729102916.34069A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <Pine.A32.3.94.960729102916.34069A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>,
David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> wrote:

> I purchased two cross peen hammers at Sears.  At the blacksmithing
> workshop, ask to look at their copy of the Centaur Forge Catalog. It 
> tends to be on the expensive end of the scale, but they pretty much 
> carry almost everything.  Also, check with your local flea-market 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> folks specializing in old tools.  Cross peen hammers are fairly
> common in the old tool piles at flea markets.  
> 
> On 24 Jul 1996, DebSamuels wrote:
> 
> > I've enrolled in a blacksmithing workshop and was told to purchase a 1 1/2
> > or 2 lb. cross peen hammer.  I am unfamiliar with this tool; any
> > suggestions as to where I could find one?
> > 
> > Thanks in advance!

They may carry a fair amount but having placed a recent order 50% would
have been backorder had I not passed on it. I've been on the Jay sharp
backorder there for over a year (with reports of other places getting the
backorders filled).

I also ordered thier PB50VS blower last year.  BIG bucks by the time it
got here. Not a good design. The "speed control" is a dimer which is
terrible on an AC motor. It might have had 1/2 a chance if the motor were
a 1725rpm but they chose a 3400rpm motor. I'd sure like to talk to the guy
who decided that those bits should go together. I either blow trees over
at 100ft or get a WAaaaaaaaWAaaaaaaaWAaaaaaaaWAaaaaaaa sound out of the
motor. 

They don't listen sometimes when I ask ship postal (UPS brokerage fee is
$30) and other times they split the order into several boxes (for no
apparent reason) and I pay brokerage on each one.

Losing patience with Centaur Forge
Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:26:28 EDT 1996
Article: 32087 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Fused quartz ( was boiler inspection .....)
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:41:53 GMT
Lines: 7


Fused quartz has a lower expansion ratio than pyrex, so it should be better.
If my memory serves me correctly, pyrex is 5% glass, and 95% quartz.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:26:30 EDT 1996
Article: 32088 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Lard oil
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:45:30 GMT
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I have never been able to find lard oil in this area.  I do use 
supermarket lard for machining aluminum.  It is brushed on, and works 
very well.  When drilling holes, just dip the drill in the lard first.

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:26:31 EDT 1996
Article: 32089 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Rivets
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:51:34 GMT
Lines: 10


I should clarify my info on allowances for forming round heads.  I do allow
1 1/2 times dia. up to 1/4 inch.  This is increased to 2 1/2 times dia at 
1/2 inch.  The reason is the change of relative volume to diameter.

 
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Sat Aug  3 11:26:32 EDT 1996
Article: 32090 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Cat litter
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:57:39 GMT
Lines: 9


As a Myford owner, Welll, also a Harley owner, I find cat litter of great 
use.  Both sit in a pool of their own oil, messy things!  My Myford sits 
on a Taiwan stand, adapted to it.  The chip tray has no drain, so I soak up
the oil with kitty litter.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From macaw1@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:33 EDT 1996
Article: 32091 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.cdsnet.net!news.magicnet.net!nntp.newsfirst.com!nntp.crosslink.net!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!chi-news.cic.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ixnews1.ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: macaw1@ix.netcom.com(KERRY SNYDERMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace
Subject: jewelers tools
Date: 30 Jul 1996 20:35:10 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <4tlnl1$q15@news1.sunbelt.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Jul 30  3:35:10 PM CDT 1996
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.beads:8348 rec.crafts.jewelry:13289 rec.crafts.marketplace:8379 rec.crafts.metalworking:32091 rec.crafts.misc:22619 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4515 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:72935 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:25225 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:19605 rec.crafts.textiles.yarn:12171 rec.crafts.winemaking:12142 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:7029 rec.crafts.glass:2834 rec.crafts.pottery:2332 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:1126 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:302

check out our web sight for all your hobby and jewelry tools at

low, low, prices

http://www.hway.net/macaw

thanks

MACAW 



From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:26:34 EDT 1996
Article: 32092 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!lade.news.pipex.net!pipex!tube.news.pipex.net!pipex!soap.news.pipex.net!pipex!usenet
From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Capstan and Turret Lathes
Date: 30 Jul 1996 21:29:29 GMT
Organization: Tattoo Club of Great Britain
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <4tlurp$23p@soap.news.pipex.net>
References: <31FF4F45.7940@ozemail.com.au>
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To: alcampb@ozemail.com.au

A capstan lathe and turret lathe are fundimentally the same.  Both have a 
revolving turret.  On a capstan the turret is mounted on a base and slides 
on this base which in turn is clamped to the bed. This can be positioned 
anywhere along the bed but has short limited travel, as travel is limited 
to the length of this base. On the turret lathe the  turret is mounted on 
a saddle, this can travel along the whole length of the lathe bed  like a 
centre lathe and is limited only by the bed length, therefore turret 
lathes usually have a lot more longitudal travel..
Also I believe that turret lathes are more likely to have power cross feed 
and power feed on the longitudal travel of the turret, capstan lathes are 
usually smaller and therefore more likely to be manual machines.

I believe that both the Ward and Herbert names are still in use.

Herbert Group is at Bayton Road, Exhall, Coventry, West Midlands, CV7 9EL

Tel 01203 361298 fax 644143

Ward is now H W Ward Machine Tools Limited and another company is T W Ward 
Machinery Limited these I believe do CNC machines.  I don't have their 
address at hand.

I have owned Ward machines, and also Britain, but not Herbert. At present 
I use Smart & Brown Capstan lathes.

Hope this helps....Lionel



From clouds@rmi.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:35 EDT 1996
Article: 32093 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!news.rmii.com!not-for-mail
From: clouds@rmi.net (Philip Duclos)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advice on bandsaw or cutoff saw sought
Date: 30 Jul 1996 23:27:38 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain Internet
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Message-ID: <4tm5pa$l5@natasha.rmii.com>
References: <4tlc9s$os3@globe.indirect.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rainbow.rmii.com

I bought a power hacksaw at the local school district auction a few weeks
ago. Didn't pay too much. Nobody seemed to want it. It needs a
few new bronze bushings, a single phase motor, a belt and a blade. Although
light enough to move around, it is built like the proverbial brick s***house.
I saw a lighter duty model a few years ago at a flea market and didn't buy it.
I regretted that decision. Not any more.

BTW, some vertical bandsaws (LARGE) went for $900. Don't know the condition...


Phil Duclos


From krieder@buffnet.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:36 EDT 1996
Article: 32094 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: 30 Jul 1996 20:32:09 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <4tlrg9$ncd@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
References: <31FE6834.701C@rocler.qc.ca>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

burt lang (burt@rocler.qc.ca) wrote:
: Induction heating by definition is heating by means of AC current 
: generated when the workpiece becomes the "shorted turn secondary" in a 
: transformer.  The primary of the transformer is powered from low 
: frequency (such as 50 or 60 Hz) AC power.  A microwave oven is totally 
: useless for this application.  A spot welder if it had a high duty cycle 
: might be a possibility.  Feed the power thru a coil of copper tubing with 
: water flowing in the tubing to keep it cool.

Agree that microwave heating of metal is entirely inappropriate.
However 50/60 Hz is also equally inappropriate in the opposite direction.
Induction heat treat and braze equipment that I have seen in use was
typically 3 KHz and higher.  Have used induction melting furnaces that
ranged from 100 lbs @ 3 KHz, 1000 lbs @ 1.2 KHz,  3000 lbs @ 180 Hz,
(The latter by means of a static harmonic trippler from 60 Hz).  It is
not until you get up in the range of 10, 20, tons or more of metal that
you begin to see 50/60 Hz powered melting/holding furnaces.

I would hate to see an enthusiastic person rush ahead and wind up a coil
and burn up his spot welder :-} 


From nclrman@exis.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:37 EDT 1996
Article: 32095 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!Grouper.Exis.Net!usenet
From: nclrman@exis.net (Bob)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Boring small hole in cres tube (counterbore?)
Date: 27 Jul 1996 22:47:11 GMT
Organization: Exchange Information Systems Networks
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <4te69f$34j@Grouper.Exis.Net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-1-17.exis.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.11

I need to drill some holes 7/64" dia. through one side of the tubing
wall, not all the way through, in cres and cs tube. The wall thickness 
of the tubing is 0.220" with an I.D. of between 0.340" and 0.455" on
various pieces. My problem is after the hole is drilled, how do I get
a counterbore taper on the inside edge of the hole in the tubing wall 
to remove the raised metal residue left from the bit?
All ideas gladly accepted.
                                     Thanks, Bob



From v042139@denab.stortek.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:38 EDT 1996
Article: 32096 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v042139
From: v042139@denab.stortek.com (Julia Bascunan)
Subject: Re: where to buy carding 
Message-ID: <Dv83Kq.7oL@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <DuvrDM.E6u@rci.ripco.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 22:24:25 GMT
Lines: 41

I bought a small carder at Christmas and checked out
with the dealer - they sell replacement blankets (I was
thinking of making one, too).

Mark

mmcdade@sybase.com
-----------------------------------------------------------
J.P. Wieser (jpwieser@ripco.com) wrote:
:  -=> Quoting Felice@pioneer.net to All <=-

:  Fe> Since every one here is so resourceful, I thought I'd ask this
:  Fe> I'm going to make a drum carder (for carding raw wool, to spin)
:  Fe> for my wife and a few of her spinning buddies. I the only part of
:  Fe> such machines that is not simple to make is the carding brush 
:  Fe> sheeting which wraps around the main and feeder drums. It seems
:  Fe> like the same stuff that cheap file cards are made of. Steel bent
:  Fe> teeth, flexible plastic back. It seems it should be about a foot or so
:  Fe> wide, and in at least 24-30 inches long. I assume they use this stuff
:  Fe> for industrial purposes (like big carding machines) and it comes in
:  Fe> rolls. Get  out your esoteric woolen mill supply catalogs, guys, my
:  Fe> future tool buying depends on useful projects being done for my main
:  Fe> squeeze.

:      What was that old saying? "There are two kinds of knowledge; 
: either you have information, or you know where to find it."

:      I know where you can find it. Any library should have the 
: _Thomas Register_; that famous set of Huge Green Books listing 
: everything made anywhere in the U.S. It's also available online. 
: This sounds like an interesting project; let us know what you come 
: up with.

:  Fe> (How many guys have justified buying a wood lathe, just to
:  Fe> build a spinning  wheel?)

:      That _was_ clever! ;-)

: ... Better living through onomatopoeia
: ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
:                                                                                                       


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:39 EDT 1996
Article: 32097 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:54:41 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <31FEBCE1.3F67@ix.netcom.com>
References: <adamp.48.0B2C9C19@mcs.com> <4tm7on$bqo@crl8.crl.com>
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To: "J. Kimberlin" <kimberln@crl.com>

J. Kimberlin wrote:
> 
> In article <adamp.48.0B2C9C19@mcs.com>, Adam Pierce <adamp@mcs.com> wrote:
> >>The only proper way to fix the tank is cut out the rusty
> >>metal (where it is thin, of course) and then weld in
> >>a replacement section.  While you have the tank open,
> >>clean out as much rust as possible.
> >       My question was always the same as the one that was raised; how
> >is an explosion prevented? The procedure is to keep a considerable
> >amount of gas in the tank so as to eliminate as much air space as possible.
> >The remaining air space is filled with an inert gas such as nitrogen this
> >works but is expensive so the shop would attach a hose to the exhaust pipe of
> >an old smoky engine and the other end to the gas tank and ran the engine for
> >about 15 minutes this eliminated enough oxygen to prevent any problems. This
> >technique sounds scary as hell but they have not blown themselves up in over
> >30 years of using this technique and I guess that they will keep on doing it
> >that way for at least the next 30.
> 
> I had some welding done once and at the shop, which was outside, there
> were a couple of gas tanks that needed repairs.  The gas tanks were first
> filled with hot water, left to sit for 10 minutes or so, then drained.
> Then, they would light a sheet of paper rolled up and give it to a guy who
> would run past the tank and shove the lighted paper into the filler
> nozzle.  The tanks I saw went *whump* and had 2 feet of flame, but did
> not distort.  Then the welder went at it with oxy-acet.  I was suitably
> scared sh*tless when I saw what they were going to do.  But evidently
> this was common practice.  The gasoline sold there was 72 octane - not
> very volatile, actually, and the altitude was 7600 feet.
> 
> Now, I have to say that I saw this in 1963 in Asmara, Eritrea which was
> part of Ethiopia at that time and not a separate country as it is today.
> I don't know if this sort of activity has anything to do with being fleet
> of foot, but an Ethiopian lady won the marathon and an Ethiopian man is
> also doing good in the current olympics.  I'll bet their technique for
> welding gas tanks has not changed, and they are certainly good runners.
> 
> JerryK

My $0.02 worth---

Watched a guy braze a tank on a farm tractor.  He'd drained the gasoline 
out and ran an air line in the tank for some period of time (I'd have it 
for a week) then proceeded to braze away.  He said he'd done it that way 
for many years.  The mizture was too lean to pop...

Paul in AJ AZ


From abrasha@abrasha.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:40 EDT 1996
Article: 32098 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: Attach hard metal pins to 22 ct golden earring
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:00:40 -0700
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <31FEB038.CB9@abrasha.com>
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C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> I made golden earrings of .25 mm thick sheet of 22 ct gold
> (gold with 4 % Ag and 4 % of Cu) and 0.8 mm thick wires of the same
> alloy soldered to it. After many times of use (a year) the pins
> (wires) broke (not at the solder joint), probably due to metal
> fatigue. Is there a *hard* alloy without nickel which can easily
> be soldered to the gold ? It does not need to be gold.
> Using Ag Cu 28 is an option, but it's melting point is too low and thus hard
> to solder.
> I use 22 ct gold because of the 'real gold' color because 18 and particularly
> 14 ct gold look like the paler brass.
> 
> Klaas


Beste Klaas,

Jazeker, ik ben een landgenoot (Just saying something to Klaas in Dutch)

Use 900 Au and 100 Cu for (coin gold) for your 22K alloy.  Actually it will be a little 
under 22K.  This is a red gold alloy which is fairly hard and durable.  You can bring up 
the 24K gold color very nicely, by the depletion gilding process.  After you have done 
that, you can work harden the ear wire, before you bend it into tthe desired shape.

You can also use the following 18K gold alloy that will depletion gild to a nice fine 
gold color.  The recipe is:  

75% Au.  The remaining metals are Copper and Silver in the proportion 5:1.  This is a 
harder alloy than the above mentioned one and red in color also.

Both these alloys are exellent "welding" alloys, so you do not need to use any solder at 
all.  the bond will be extremely strong, and if you work harden the piece properly in 
the right place, it should last a long time.

Veel geluk, veel plezier, en tot de volgende keer.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From anvil@iap.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:26:42 EDT 1996
Article: 32099 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:10:21 +1000
Organization: IAP Direct
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31FE965D.5BED@iap.net.au>
References: <4shq60$283@cletus.bright.net> <darylb-1707961813090001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <darylb-1807961702560001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960728173946.3789A-100000@supreme> <31FC0121.CE4@iap.net.au>
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Colin Morton wrote:
> 
> Barbara Harvey wrote:
> >
> > My daughter Caroline did not know what an anvil was. However, she is
> > interested in learning more about such technology. She feels it would be
> > good to be able to do ones own blacksmithing. However she is very slight
> > in built. Have others here had experience in doing their own
> > blacksmithing - particularly, women?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Barbara Harvey                   E-mail: bharvey@pcug.org.au
> > Canberra ACT Australia. WWW: http://www.pcug.org.au/~bharvey
> 
Barbara I tried to get to your homepage. The response was "this URL not 
available". Just thought I would let you know.



> Barbara
> I am a blacksmith/ engineer in Western Aust. I believe any one can hammer
> hot metal. One of my lady friends who was absolutely tiny (Size 8, 50 kg)
> during her sculpture training did quite a bit of blacksmithing.
> The big thing to remember is start small. Meaning a small hammer
> (750grams?) and small pieces of steel say under 10mm dia/thickness. The
> other thing to remember is to take it slowly at first.
> You might try reading The Modern Blacksmith by Alexander Weygers,
> Prentice Hall Press. Have a look at page 90 where you will find a dominican
> nun hammering at the forge.
> Good luck and let me know how you go
> regards
> Colin Morton  anvil@iap.net.au


From tap17@deltanet.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:43 EDT 1996
Article: 32100 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Induction brazing from old microwave oven?
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:21:21 -0700
Organization: Gray Associates
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <tap17-3007962121210001@vny0148.deltanet.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: vny0148.deltanet.com

In article <4tijqv$9g6@juliana.sprynet.com>, <davida05@sprynet.com> wrote:

> Has anyone constructed a homemade induction brazing coil powered from
> a salvaged home microwave oven?  I think the usual oven is rated around
> 1000 watts, so it should provide enough power for a small coil, say maybe
> 1-inch inside diameter.  I want to join brass to 1/8-inch O-1 drill rod
and make
> a nice clean joint without any surplus squirting out the edges.  I've used
> paste of silver/flux and also stick silver solder with a propane torch, but
> haven't developed the skills to make a perfect joint.  According to the
> AWS, for a tubular type joint, the space allowed for the filler metal should
> be around 0.002 to 0.005 inches.  Any comments will be welcome. Dave

   Are you sure that the frequency of a microwave (which is meant to heat
water molucules) would be suitable for heating ferrous material? I'm not
saying it is or is not, but that you should check.

-- 
Steve Gray
Gray Associates
Santa Monica CA
Algorithms, computer graphics
Mechanical inventions


From glen@gbrmpa.gov.au Sat Aug  3 11:26:44 EDT 1996
Article: 32101 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glen Harris <glen@gbrmpa.gov.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage - PWM controller
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 13:06:01 +1000
Organization: Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority
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Kurt Rieder wrote:
> 
> I have noticed that some tools which are powered by motors with
> continuously variable RPM also specify either 110 or 220 volts.
> An example are the Sherline lathe and mill where it is stated
> that the dual voltage is automatically compensated for by the
> control system... no changes required.
> 
> Can anyone describe how this wide range of voltage is accommodated ?
> Surely there is not a step down transformer included ?  Is there
> some way to do this with the usual rectifier diodes, diac and SCR
> speed control system for a DC motor without burning it out at double
> the rated voltage ?  My reason for asking this is that I have a
> couple of very nice 48V DC (PM) motors that I would very much like
> to run on 110 volts with such a variable speed system.


  The method varies, but a simple system is to use a variac, a cheap
one is a light dimmer, to drop the voltage down, then rectify the AC
through a bridge rectifier.  This is four diodes arranged so that
positive on either AC input goes to one output and negative to the
other.  Use a 5 or 10 Amp bridge and a 10,000 uF smoothing capacitor.

  You now have whatever voltage you need, from 0 to the RMS peak
of the AC voltage thanks to the capacitor.  eg: 110*sqrt(2)=155V
I use transformers to drop the voltage, but the dimmer works in
a lot of cases.

  Now, we have to make a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal.  Get a 
555 timer chip and set it up to give a fixed frequency, variable
duty cycle ouput.  This is an extremely common chip and the circuit
for this can be found in many data books and electronics texts.
The duty cycle can be varied from 1% to 99% on-to-off ratio for each
pulse, using a variable resistor.  All of this circuit runs on a
lower voltage, say 5 to 35 volts, and only a few milliamps, so use
low power, cheap components from Dick Smith, Rat Shack, Tandy, etc.
The frequency should be more than 1000Hz, preferably 10 to 100
thousand for smooth operation of the motor.  20,000 is a common
frequency used in high tech radio controlled car speed controllers.

  You still have to switch the high voltage/current to the motor, so
connect the output of the 555 to one or more Field Effect Transistors
(Fets), which can switch large currents quite easily.  You might have
to put a small drive transistor between the 555 and the Fets.

  Connect one lead of the motor to the positive supply coming from
the rectifier, the other to the input of the Fets, and the output
of the Fets to the negative of the rectifier.

  You now have a variable voltage, variable speed, PWM controlled
motor.  There are more complex designes, but this is one that can
be made by a beginner, unlike the Sherline one.

  Have fun, and don't kill anyone but yourself.

(This information is provided off the top of my head, and I make no
guarantees, or take any reponsibitily for damage or injury related
to the use or misuse of this information)


From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:26:45 EDT 1996
Article: 32102 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microwave ovens & induction furnaces
Date: 31 Jul 1996 07:28:14 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <4tn1ue$erd@news.knoware.nl>
References: <DvCKqw.M90@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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And what about using an induction cooking stove ?
This works on induction heating of the metal pans.
Replace the pan with a crucible with metal in it and
will the metal get hot enough to melt ?

Klaas



From ccnoyer@whidbey.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:46 EDT 1996
Article: 32103 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Clarence Noyer <ccnoyer@whidbey.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: 30 Jul 1996 22:21:19 GMT
Organization: Motley Studies Greenbank Wa 98253
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References: <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com> <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org> <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <4thc33$s8k@news1.svc>
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The normaltendency to avoid an objec falling towards your foot is to 
pullyour foot away.  This puts your toes on the ground, floor or 
whatever.  If your reflexes are poor, you are set up for a dented shoe, a 
black toenail or even a crushed number of toes.

The conditioned refles is to lift your toe off the floor and ease the 
load down to the floor after it has hit your foot.  Of course, practicle 
limits of this process are dependent on your physical prowess and the 
mass of the falling object and it's velocity.  By using your head (not to 
intercept the object, fool :-)) choose small objects to stop or consider 
a safer working stance.

"CC"

act from knowledge not react from ignorance.



From aaelpps@snds.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:47 EDT 1996
Article: 32104 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: aaelpps@snds.com (aaelpps)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: 31 Jul 1996 12:06:50 GMT
Organization: Sundstrand Corp.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <4tni8q$bp1@venger.snds.com>
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In article <DvE472.1MM.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>, 
rnichols@interaccess.com says...
>
Clipped
>
>Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from 
Morton, or isn't
>this company for real?
>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
>Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
>PGP public key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 
87 EC A7 D7

Yes, it is real, as I just received my 4400A lathe and 5400 mill just 
last month with the 20% discount.  I agree it is'nt obvious as to 
how to contact them as they are still working on the Sherline page, 
but I used Mark Rogo's email address as shown on the bottom of 
there home page.   I then received a response from a Ted Robbins,
unfortunetly I do not have any email address or phone number for 
him.  But try Mark's email if you have'nt already.  
mark@mortonmachinery.com

Good Luck!

Phil St.Clair
aaelpps@snds.com





From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:48 EDT 1996
Article: 32105 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Adapting a Shaper for Sawing
Date: 31 Jul 1996 11:53:08 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 16
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Hi. I did this with a 5" Perfecto shaper and it worked
fine. You feed it down on the forward stroke. I used
regular (.025 thickness) 18t hacksaw blades.

I subsequently got an old Kalamazoo (Sears and Roebuck)
power hacksaw, which feeds itself. that uses regular
power hacksaw blades (.032 thickness, 14tpi), and I
think if I were going to make another for a shaper, I
set it up to use those blades as they don't bend in use.

But yeah, it works fine. And Nevil Shute described one
he'd made in a 1950's ME, so the idea's been around for
a while.

/Charlie



From dide@dgsys.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:49 EDT 1996
Article: 32106 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring small hole in cres tube (counterbore?)
Date: 28 Jul 1996 01:35:25 GMT
Organization: Digital Gateway Systems
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  Scrape them off with a .312 diamater bar faced off to have
  a good edge. Forget the countersink, nobody will see it.
                                          David Ide

Bob (nclrman@exis.net) wrote:
: I need to drill some holes 7/64" dia. through one side of the tubing
: wall, not all the way through, in cres and cs tube. The wall thickness 
: of the tubing is 0.220" with an I.D. of between 0.340" and 0.455" on
: various pieces. My problem is after the hole is drilled, how do I get
: a counterbore taper on the inside edge of the hole in the tubing wall 
: to remove the raised metal residue left from the bit?
: All ideas gladly accepted.
:                                      Thanks, Bob



From jesw@mitre.org Sat Aug  3 11:26:50 EDT 1996
Article: 32107 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advice on bandsaw or cutoff saw sought
Date: 31 Jul 1996 12:43:54 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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> (Needs) bandsaw or cutoff saw (for) bar materials of less than 2 or 2.5
inches, and pipe of less than 3 inches (1:20 scale locomotive materials).
> I would like to hear advice and experiences with sizes, types, etc.
> Do I want a horizontal or vertical?  Is automatic feed a must? 
> Could I get by with a cutoff saw for this type of work?  

   I couldn't decide so I got one of each, the $149 Enco cutoff saw and a
used Delta (resembles Enco) horizontal bandsaw. Both do a good job on 1/8"
- 1" mild steel. 

   The cutoff saw will cut hard material, such as lathe bits for boring
bar cutters. It will cut thinwalled tubing that the bandsaw would catch
on, but so will a 32 TPI hacksaw. The abrasive blade that came with it
doesn't seem to work on steel wider than about an inch or so without more
pressure than I want to apply.  The shower of incandescent sparks is a
fire hazard indoors.  When not in use, it takes up shelf space, not floor
space. 

   The bandsaw is better for heavy stock and nonferrous material like
brass and aluminum. The saw takes a while but it takes its time, not
yours. It also cuts curves, like loco frame rails, and is a fairly decent
general-purpose wood saw. Some people have reported a lot of trouble with
this type of bandsaw.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:26:52 EDT 1996
Article: 32108 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Message-ID: <1996Jul31.085856.24398@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 31 Jul 96 08:58:55 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <31FE28E8.5EE7@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:
|>Richard H. Williams wrote:
|>> 
|>> In article <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
|>> >From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan).........
|>
|>....... They say that their catalog is now available on
|>> CD-ROM, maybe this will help the smaller purchasers get access.
|>
|>Does anyone know if MMC has a website?????


MSC (not MMC), from the FAQ:

http://www.industry.net/msc


From craigtc@theramp.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:53 EDT 1996
Article: 32109 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: craigtc@theramp.net (Craig C.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old air compressor rehab
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:50:36 GMT
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rasjad@pacifier.com (Rasjad Lints) wrote:



A lot of stuff comepletely snipped out...


Try WW Grainger for all of tyhe things that you are looking for,
including tanks, safety valves...ect.....Lots of stuff to do what ever
you want to do...


Craig



From craigtc@theramp.net Sat Aug  3 11:26:54 EDT 1996
Article: 32110 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: craigtc@theramp.net (Craig C.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring small hole in cres tube (counterbore?)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:53:00 GMT
Organization: InfoRamp, Inc.
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nclrman@exis.net (Bob) wrote:

>I need to drill some holes 7/64" dia. through one side of the tubing
>wall, not all the way through, in cres and cs tube. The wall thickness 
>of the tubing is 0.220" with an I.D. of between 0.340" and 0.455" on
>various pieces. My problem is after the hole is drilled, how do I get
>a counterbore taper on the inside edge of the hole in the tubing wall 
>to remove the raised metal residue left from the bit?
>All ideas gladly accepted.
>                                     Thanks, Bob

Bob, check out Enco's catalog for a huge line of deburr tools. If you
can't find something there that will do the job for you, then you
might have to just make a tool to do the job.

Enco's phone number is 1-800-873-3626
Pages 162-166 of the 95/96 full line catalog are all deburr tools.


Craig



From rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:26:55 EDT 1996
Article: 32111 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu (Richard H. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 17:17:24 GMT
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In article <1996Jul31.085856.24398@roper.uwyo.edu> jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) writes:
>Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
>From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
>Date: 31 Jul 96 08:58:55 MDT

>In article <31FE28E8.5EE7@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>|>Richard H. Williams wrote:
>|>> 
>|>> In article <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
>|>> >From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan).........
>|>
>|>....... They say that their catalog is now available on
>|>> CD-ROM, maybe this will help the smaller purchasers get access.
>|>
>|>Does anyone know if MMC has a website?????


>MSC (not MMC), from the FAQ:

>http://www.industry.net/msc


Again a victim of random snippage:

McMaster-Carr = MMC

http://www.mcmaster.com/

not a whole lot there; certainly no catalog order blanks :]

Rich Williams


From john@siu.edu Sat Aug  3 11:26:56 EDT 1996
Article: 32112 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:55:21 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On Wed, 31 Jul 1996 cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com wrote:

> While we're on the subject, is there any difference 
> in nomenclature for cross peen hammers which have 
> the peen parallel to the direction of the handle, 
> vs. perpendicular?  Just curious....
> 
> 
> Brian
> 

Yup.  The one with the "peen" perpendicular to the handle is a
"cross peen" hammer.  The one with the "peen" parallel to the 
handle is a "straight peen" hammer.  Both are useful.  I prefer
the straight peen for most forging work where I am doing directional
stretching because of the angle I can hold the material.  However,
frequently the cross peen is the one I need for convenient holding
of the stock.  I have and use both!

John



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:57 EDT 1996
Article: 32113 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atomizing Nozzles
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:23:05 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
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I was in Home depot last night.

The nozzles cost 3 for $4.50.  They run off city water pressure, and
are rated at .5 to 1.5 gal./hr.

They were in blister pack, so hard to get a good look, but they appear
to use the principle I outlined in previous posting.

The orifice appeared to be extreamly fine.  They also sold filters for
the misting system so it is possible that there is a plugging problem.

-KF-



From jmayhew@pop3.cris.com Sat Aug  3 11:26:58 EDT 1996
Article: 32114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeff Mayhew <jmayhew@pop3.cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: 31 Jul 1996 15:33:05 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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aaelpps@snds.com (aaelpps) wrote:
>In article <DvE472.1MM.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>, 
>rnichols@interaccess.com says...
>>
>Clipped
>>
>>Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from 
>Morton, or isn't
>>this company for real?
>
>Yes, it is real, as I just received my 4400A lathe and 5400 mill just 
>last month with the 20% discount.  I agree it is'nt obvious as to 
>how to contact them as they are still working on the Sherline page, 
>but I used Mark Rogo's email address as shown on the bottom of 
>there home page.   I then received a response from a Ted Robbins,
>unfortunetly I do not have any email address or phone number for 
>him.  But try Mark's email if you have'nt already.  
>mark@mortonmachinery.com

I ordered a bunch of Sherline stuff from them recently (deluxe XY
base, rotary table, steady rest, etc.).  Mark Rogo is the e-mail
contact, but Ted Robbins is the Sherline guy.  Also, until they get
their web site together, you can't pay with a credit card, so be 
prepared to send a cashier's check/money order or to have them sit
on your check until it clears.  Just make up your list of stuff
with part numbers, and they'll get back to you with a price.

Jeff Mayhew
jmayhew@cris.com



From mark@pph8ah03.cwing.upmc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:27:00 EDT 1996
Article: 32115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mark J. Gartner" <mark@pph8ah03.cwing.upmc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: test post, please ignore
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 17:01:32 -0400
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test
-- 
Mark J. Gartner
Artificial Heart and Lung Program
University of Pittsburgh Medical Center


From metalman@lkdllink.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:01 EDT 1996
Article: 32116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Len Gilmore <metalman@lkdllink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Laser
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 22:47:19 -0500
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Ed Chejlava wrote:
> 
> In message <4sf8mb$ra0@news1.mnsinc.com> - Steve Stallings <> writes:
> :>
> :>Many thanks to those who have taken the time to reply to my question about
> :>milling in soft aluminum panels. (Electronics, complex shapes, 1/8" dia.
> :>milling cutter, 0.050" soft aluminum panels)
> :>
> :>Responses lead me to offer more details.  Usage is in a small (5 person)
> :>electronics company needing to cut many copies of same panel.  We have the
> :>ability to deal with CNC in a roll-your-own fashion, and have cheap access
> :>to a good XY table, but are novices at metal working. Efforts at cutting
> :>with our 2400 RPM mill (vertical head on EMCO V10P using power feed on
> :>lathe to move table) and a 2 flute cutter succeed only at feed rates
> :>that seem to take forever!
> :>
> :>Carbide cutters running at a higher SFM rate and dry cutting would be nice
> :>to speed up cutting and keep mess to a minimum.  Maybe a shop-vac could be
> :>rigged to remove chips and cool the cutter and aluminum at the same time.
> :>
> :>Still interested in "alternative" spindle approaches to use with a roll-
> :>your-own CNC setup.  Are the bearings in a router or die grinder up to
> :>the side loads?  Do all routers and electric die grinders have series or
> :>universal motors that are subject to major speed variation with load?
> :>Would even consider opening motor and rewiring to proper DC controls
> :>for shunt mode operation if a knowledgeable source verifies that this
> :>is reasonable. Routers seem to offer acceptable collet arrangments and
> :>are small enough to manage in some sort of "Z" axis arangement. Other
> :>ideas for "spindle" are welcome.
> :>
> :>Yes, punching has been considered.  We even have a small manual turrent
> :>punch, but .... custom punches cost a fortune (we would need over a dozen
> :>sets at appx. $500 per set) and step/repeat (nibbling) does not work well
> :>in a manual punch (and risks damaging punchs as noted by Mr. Hoffmeyer).
> :>
> :>This news group deserves great credit for content and educational value
> :>to novices. I look forward to future involvement.  Perhaps we can help
> :>with issues related to electronics and control systems, though we do not
> :>have a machine tool background.
> :>
> :>Please respond with posts to this group, E-Mail address not ready yet.
> :>
> :>Thanks,  Steve Stallings
> :>
> Steve:
> 
> Just visited my brother who had modified a plasma cutting machine to serve as
> a plasma arc for a chemistry experiment.  We played with the device a bit and
> if you don't need real "machined" tolerances, it looks like it might be worth
> a gander.  Tool Crib has a similar machine for about $1k.  Basically, its a
> small nozzle with air blowing through it, and you generate an arc between the
> nozzle and the workpiece that melts the work, which is then blown away by the
> air..... really fast - cut as fast as we could move our hands in a sheet of
> about 1/32" steel......
> 
> Ed C.
> 
> When I grow up, I want to be an HVAC guy.
> 
> ..Any job where duct tape is the CORRECT tool has to be great.ED,
Depending on the thickness of the alum.
I would laser cut it. My laser will hole a tolerance of .002"
And we can cut at a pretty good feed rate.
It might me cheaper than you think and the edge is good
quality if you nitrogen and not bad if you use oxygen which is
alot cheaper.
Any questions email or fax me
metalman@lkdllink.net
or
Klymore Specialties
Paynesville Mn 
1.320.243.3146
                              Len


From dennisc@nwlink.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:02 EDT 1996
Article: 32117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dennisc@nwlink.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rivett Lathe Info. Request
Date: 28 Jul 1996 03:28:40 GMT
Organization: Northwest Link
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I recently purchased a used Rivett lathe, model 715.  Can anyone tell me where 
I can get an owners manual or if parts are available?  The lathe is complete 
except the motor and pulley are missing.  Can anyone give me any particulars 
on the motor or what the spindle speeds should be?  Looks like there was a 
placard on the headstock that probably had the pertinant info.?  I would like 
to correspond with anyone owning or having info. on this brand of lathe.

dennisc@nwlink.com


From rparker7@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:03 EDT 1996
Article: 32118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rparker7@ix.netcom.com (Roy Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:12:50 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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On Fri, 26 Jul 1996 04:55:59 GMT, carl@scott.net (Carl) wrote:
(snip description of cross pein hammer)
>
>   BTW the best hammer I have ever used is a Nevada pattern 2 1/2 lb
>hammer.  It has two long tapered faces.  It looks somewhat like a
>railroad spike hammer but the faces are not as long.  I think it was
>originally developed for driving drill steels in mines, such as
>Nevadas silver mines.
>
I stumbled across a straight pein hammer (well used) some years ago.
The face is pretty much shot, but I've found I prefer the straight
pein over the cross pein when it comes to drawing out metal.  The
position I hold the metal seems more "natural" to me.  And one of
these days I'd like to find a nice little 1-1/2 lb engineers hammer.
A buddy of mine had one, and it was great for doing small delicate
work.

Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous.  Houston, Texas
rparker7@ix.netcom.com  roy.parker@psl-online.com


From Jtrites@mis.nb.ca Sat Aug  3 11:27:04 EDT 1996
Article: 32119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jeffrey R. Trites" <Jtrites@mis.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old air compressor rehab
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 23:20:16 -0700
Organization: MIS Fredericton
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To: Rasjad Lints <rasjad@pacifier.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32119 rec.woodworking:145130

Rasjad Lints wrote:
> 
> I recently got hold of an old, greasy DeVilbiss air compressor (Model
> 220).  Looks like it was built before 1950.  It has an old, large 1/2 hp
> GE motor. It seems to work well, producing 70 psi before the pressure
> relief valve pops.  It is rated to 100 psi.  (no rating on CFM on the
> specs)  I'ld like to use this to as the bases to create my own air
> compressor with a tank.  My questions are;
> 
> 1) could I use a LP 5 gallon tank (new, as I don't want it full of LP
> gas).  What's the psi rating on those LP tanks?  (you know, the kind
> that's attached to your bar-ba-que)
> 

I was told by a propane "tech" that the releif valves are rated at 375psi

> 2) any idea where I could get a pressure based elec switch so that it
> doesn't run all of the time (ie; turn on at 85 psi, off at 90 psi).

I would reccomend more of a gap, a normal single stage starts at 90 psi
and shuts down at 125 psi. This will give you more reserve.

> 
> 3) where can I get another pressure relief valve (for 100 psi)
> 
> 4) what kind of intake filter do I need (I do woodworking, so dust is a
> real concern)

Any good filter, from a compressor to automotive intake filter.

> 
> Any other advice?
> 


Just my opinion, hope it helps.  Jeff Trites


From arthurd784@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:06 EDT 1996
Article: 32120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: arthurd784@aol.com (ArthurD784)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: newsgroup for pictures of your crafts
Date: 31 Jul 1996 18:55:35 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

George. I am very interested in being able to send pictures of our crafts
and projects to a newsgroup. Also I need to learn how to send the pictures
to the news group. I am now sending gifs and jpg of my metalworking
projects through e-mail to my friends. Please keep me posted on your
progress. Art.   San Diego 


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:07 EDT 1996
Article: 32121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge as a melting furnace?
Date: 28 Jul 1996 00:43:08 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 27
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In article <darylb-2507961543030001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>, darylb@bnr.ca
(darylb) writes:

>How about a stainless cup?

Iron is iron.
To melt copper alloys, you need to use a ceramic refractory (graphite,
clay-graphite, silicon carbide, etc.) crucibles.

Years ago, I used to line cast iron pots with a heavy phos-bonded alumina
refractory to melt brasses. It ain't worth it ... one little pinhole in
the refractory and the molten brass would come right through 3/16" iron
and there goes another furnace reline job.
Refractory crucibles aren't that expensive and are readily available
(Power Model Supply, Pyramid Products, Swest, ...), so why bother with any
make-do methods.

You can use cast iron or steel pots for backyard foundry crucibles when
melting aluminum ... there will be slight dissolution of the pot by the
molten aluminum but it will be minimal, though it is enough to give an
iron contaminant to the cast aluminum.

Winston
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--


From wwebster@nortel.ca Sat Aug  3 11:27:08 EDT 1996
Article: 32122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atomizing Nozzles
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 07:59:52 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <wwebster-3107960759530001@47.116.15.87>
References: <4tbcf6$bu4@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

In article <4tbcf6$bu4@mksrv1.dseg.ti.com>, mjones@ms3.dseg.ti.com wrote:

> On a recent visit to Las Vegas, I noticed that several businesses on the
strip had installed
> an interesting cooling apparatus - some very, very fine nozzles that
sprayed water in such a fine 
> mist that you didn't actually feel wet - it was more like a fog - but
apparently the subsequent
> evaporation cooled the carrier air over the sidewalk quite a bit.

I wonder if this is similar to the misting system used at the Olympic
Games in Atlanta?  Atlanta seems to have more 'mist' than fog coming out
of the jets.  And, they help it along with large blower fans.  At least,
that's what I've seen on TV.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:09 EDT 1996
Article: 32123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 22:40:03 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <31FAFD33.141@scruznet.com>
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CC: rec.crafts.metalworking

McMaster-Carr has been the greatest folks to deal with. Everything is in 
stock, etc. I do however understand your frustration in getting a 
catalog. If you have seen their catalog, you might understand why they 
are hesitant to send one out to the maybe occasional buyer. It runs 
almost 3000 pages and weighs 5 pounds! It truely worth the continued 
effort to get on their mailing list. Kinda sounds like a badge of honor, 
huh?

Lee Marshall


From krieder@buffnet.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:10 EDT 1996
Article: 32124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!buffnet2.buffnet.net!buffnet7.buffnet.net!krieder
From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: DC motor voltage
Date: 28 Jul 1996 06:09:58 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
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I have noticed that some tools which are powered by motors with 
continuously variable RPM also specify either 110 or 220 volts.
An example are the Sherline lathe and mill where it is stated
that the dual voltage is automatically compensated for by the
control system... no changes required.

Can anyone describe how this wide range of voltage is accommodated ?
Surely there is not a step down transformer included ?  Is there 
some way to do this with the usual rectifier diodes, diac and SCR
speed control system for a DC motor without burning it out at double
the rated voltage ?  My reason for asking this is that I have a
couple of very nice 48V DC (PM) motors that I would very much like 
to run on 110 volts with such a variable speed system.
 


From hotarn@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:11 EDT 1996
Article: 32125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hotarn@aol.com (Hot Arn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmith coke
Date: 28 Jul 1996 02:35:59 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <31F53DC5.593C@crane.navy.mil>, "Douglas P. Terrell"
<dterrell@crane.navy.mil> writes:

>There  is a coal yard in Brazil, Indiana which stocks Pocahontas Coal,
>which several of the blacksmiths in this area use. I beleive the guy
>will ship 25 or 50 lbs if your willing to pay the shipping.

  Cumberland Elkhorn  in Lousville Ky. is also a supplier of a superior
grade of blacksmiths coal.
   Although I don't know about shipping, I go get mine.


hotarn@aol.com                              DGB
Keep the anvils ringing.


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Sat Aug  3 11:27:12 EDT 1996
Article: 32126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: 28 Jul 1996 07:00:33 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
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In article <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>, Abrasha  <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:
>There is that name again, ... McMaster-Carr.  I had heard about them as a good place to 
>do business with, so I called them for a catalogue.
>
>What is it with these jerks?  After literally several months of calling for the damned 
>thing I can't seem to wrestle one away from them.  Are they made of gold?

They may as well be made of gold :-).  They are several thousand
pages thick, you should realize.  Given their size, they might cost anywhere
between $10 and $50 to print and ship.  If you were a business, would
you try to make a profit by sending large volumes of $10 and $50 bills
to random people who call you on the phone?

>Every place I have ever called has been more than happy to send me one, and I do 
>business with ALL of them, because they all have good deals on something or other at 
>different times.

The full McMaster-Carr catalog comes out, I think, no more often than once
a year.  At the places I've worked at (large national labs) that have catalogs,
there are at most one or two catalogs per thousand employees.  The
very most recent catalogs are kept in purchasing and/or stockrooms;
the year-old ones migrate down a level, appearing in offices of key
people; if you're an average person, you might be able to inherit a
catalog which is 4 or 5 years old.  It's not as if the catalogs change
very much from year to year, anyway - the sort of stuff sold by
McMaster-Carr is not high in planned obsolesence!

>McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a penny of business, 
>because of the way they treat potential customers.

Part of this is the industrial nature of McMaster-Carr.  Their typical
customer is a company with thousands of employees which might
make millions of dollars of orders every year, not a guy
like you or me which dinks around in his garage a couple of nights a
week.  That said, the salespeople at McMaster-Carr have been happy
to give me current prices on part numbers I've found in catalogs nearly a
decade old and they've sold stuff to me which I've purchased on a
credit card and had shipped to my home address.  Still no new catalog,
though!

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From gage@pph8ah03.cwing.upmc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:27:14 EDT 1996
Article: 32127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kenneth L. Gage" <gage@pph8ah03.cwing.upmc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Requesting Band Saw Advice
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 17:01:10 -0400
Organization: Artificial Heart and Lung Program
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I'm planning to purchase a band saw in the near future.  However, I'm
not very experienced with band saws and I was hoping for some guidance. 
The material to be cut is two concentric plastic cylinders placed within
each other, a pipe within a pipe arrangement.   The outside dimension is
6" in diameter.  The plastic appears to be a polycarbonate approximately
0.25" thick.  The area between the two pipes is filled with plastic
fiber.  Both ends of the cylinders are also covered in polycarbonate
plastic.  The ends of the cylinder are to cut off and the main
cylindrical section quartered.  

I've looked in all the local hardware stores and have just about decided
upon a Sears Craftsman Contractor Series 14" Band Saw.  I was also
planning to buy a riser block to increase cutting depth.  The saw costs
$529.99 and the block $59.99.  The motor develops a maximum of 1.5 hp. 
As in most cases, cost is a concern, and the saw will be used only a few
times a week at most.  It just must be capable of doing the job.

I'm also wondering what type of blades would be best to use in this
situation.  There may be times when I will need to cut through
thin-walled (less than 1/8") metal tubes coated with epoxy that are
located in the center of the cylinders.  I'm hoping one blade will be
able to do the job.

I look forward to hearing your advice and I thank you in advance.


Best Regards,

Ken Gage


From wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:15 EDT 1996
Article: 32128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: william tietz <wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: phase ll indexers any good?
Date: 31 Jul 1996 22:08:52 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Wisconsin
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msc sells phase ll indexers at a good price, are they any good, or are 
they junk? I'm looking hard at a palmgren indexer but the price of a phase 
ll has me in a "what to do mode" any advise would be helpful.



From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:27:16 EDT 1996
Article: 32129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 00:57:42 +0100
Organization: What's that?
Lines: 12
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <1YvVvDA2zq+xEwKl@abdab.demon.co.uk>
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1) Sorry Ed, you have it wrong this time.  It is the insulation layer,
whatever it is composed of, that is called lagging, not the covering
over it. 

2) So far as I know, which is not far, 'lag' is, in this context, only a
verb.  You lag something with lagging.  I do not see that there is
necessarily any connection with lag bolts (whatever they are).

3) Now we have dealt with the lagging, what O-rings were you asking
about, exactly? 
-- 
Charles


From rotoflite@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:17 EDT 1996
Article: 32130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rotoflite@aol.com (Roto Flite)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: (Q:) Castable Refractory Mixture
Date: 28 Jul 1996 07:29:41 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Does anyone know of a good home blend castable refractory recipe, or a
source   for a good commercial mix?      Any help greatly appreciated!
Thanks.


From bharvey@pcug.org.au Sat Aug  3 11:27:18 EDT 1996
Article: 32131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Barbara Harvey <bharvey@pcug.org.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 17:41:37 +1000
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960728173946.3789A-100000@supreme>
References: <4shq60$283@cletus.bright.net> <darylb-1707961813090001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <darylb-1807961702560001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32131 rec.equestrian:147802

My daughter Caroline did not know what an anvil was. However, she is 
interested in learning more about such technology. She feels it would be 
good to be able to do ones own blacksmithing. However she is very slight 
in built. Have others here had experience in doing their own 
blacksmithing - particularly, women?

Regards

Barbara Harvey                   E-mail: bharvey@pcug.org.au
Canberra ACT Australia. WWW: http://www.pcug.org.au/~bharvey



From bwinterb@intranet.ca Sat Aug  3 11:27:19 EDT 1996
Article: 32132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!mr.net!winternet.com!n1ott.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!n3ott.istar!infoshare!passport.ca!news2.insinc.net!news.intranet.ca!ppp11-deep
From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 96 23:32:40 GMT
Organization: Intranet Technologies
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In article <31FF496E.B26@atc.alcoa.com>, cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com wrote:
>While we're on the subject, is there any difference 
>in nomenclature for cross peen hammers which have 
>the peen parallel to the direction of the handle, 
   straight peen
>vs. perpendicular?  Just curious....
   cross peen


Bruce Winterbon
bwinterb@intranet.ca
http://intranet.on.ca:80/~bwinterb



From phredd@ici.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:21 EDT 1996
Article: 32133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phredd@ici.net (fred may)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: postprocessor, CAD/CAM
Date: 31 Jul 1996 22:41:54 GMT
Organization: The Internet Connection
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In article <4tlmdl$bhg@bashir.ici.net>, phredd@ici.net says...
>
>Good Morning or Evening, as the case may be;
>        I am looking for a shareware or reasonably priced cad/cam 
>program that will import dxf or dwg files and output them to "G code".
>(postprocessor). I am useing AH-HA artisan as a driver program into a 
>Bridgeport milling machine. Seems to workfine.I looked at vector-cad 
>about a year ago. Seemed to do ok at the time. was about $250/300 at 
the 
>time. Checked wity the distributor this a.m. He said that is now about 
>$3200 for full 3d system. Rediculous for a shade tree mechanic. many 
>thanks in advance.
>                        Fred May
>



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sat Aug  3 11:27:22 EDT 1996
Article: 32134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: 27 Jul 1996 14:10:47 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 41
Sender: greg Lewis
Expires: 9/1/96
Message-ID: <4te0kn$nqf@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com> <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org> <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960725092715.2661K-100000@reliant>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960725092715.2661K-100000@reliant>,
John R. Johnson <john@siu.edu> wrote:
>On 24 Jul 1996, Greg Lewis wrote:
><snip>
>> The energy was all absorbed by my toes, so of course, there was no
>> rebound.  Part of the technique is learning to realize that an object
>> is in downward motion, and quickly putting your weight on one foot
>> while moving the other so it is underneath the object being studied.



>
>Greg,
>  I found that the technique is really quite automatic.  I seem to have
>this natural reflex that very effectively catches any dropped object.
>It works especially well with large castings and other heavy objects.
>It seems like the heavier the object, the more effective my innate
>reflexes are at cushioning its descent with my Red Wings!
>
>John
>




This is a genetic problem. We have some researchers here at the
university isolating that gene so the trait can be bred out of my
descendents. They may also soon have a cure available in tablet form.
Sufferers will take one tablet and stuff the remainder in the boots.





___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:23 EDT 1996
Article: 32135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ta-Ying Lathe
Date: 1 Aug 1996 03:18:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Try a visit to your local supplier of bearings and power transmission
components.  They should have the linked V-belting.  I use it on two 
mills and a Logan lathe.  Just cut the old belt off and install the
linked belt.  The linked belt runs very well.

Oh, I believe Grizzly also supplys the linked belting.

Regards,

Chuck



From jonathan@swood.demon.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:27:24 EDT 1996
Article: 32136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jonathan@swood.demon.co.uk (Jonathan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Adapting a Shaper for Sawing
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:38:58 GMT
Lines: 7
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I have a Elliot 10M Shaper and it occurs to me that the action of the
shaper could be adapted for sawing metals. Has anyone done this? Do
they know of any sources of information on this particular aspect?
Thanks
_________________________________________________________________
Mike Greenwood



From alshinn@sirius.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:25 EDT 1996
Article: 32137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: dial test indicator question
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 22:17:14 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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In article <felice.156.31FFC189@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein) wrote:

> I bought a federal dial test indicator at the flea market for $5, missing the 
> dial crystal and no base or attachments. I made an acrylic snap on crystal, 
> and an adaptor for my base, but I have the following question:
> The tip seems to discretely click in an arc, should I just adjust the
tip this 
> way or is there some procedure? It is Federal Testmaster M-1 .001. Anyone
> have a copy (or can copy) the instructions for this instrument? Thanks.

Click away. Set it so the tip is perpendicular to the motion to be measured.


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:27 EDT 1996
Article: 32138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Vacuum Brazing Furnace
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 04:04:08 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32002c31.53555615@news.value.net>
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Have client with need for 1-4 cuft vacuum brazing furnace... used
better... cheap best... got any ideas?
Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:28 EDT 1996
Article: 32139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on power tools to cut sheet plastic
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 20:41:49 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3200277D.29E1@scruznet.com>
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To: Robin Yang <paladin@ucscb.UCSC.EDU>

To achieve the accuracy for the cuts that you want to make, as well as 
the diameters involved, I would recommend a 10" table saw.  This one 
tool will enable you to cut both the miters as well as the parallels. A 
simple jig that drops into the two grooves makes cutting the miters 
easy. I suggest that yougo to the library and check some books on the 
use of power tools and look for jigs and fixtures for use with a table 
saw.

Lee M


From cbear81438@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:29 EDT 1996
Article: 32140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com (CBear81438)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 28 Jul 1996 12:56:45 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <4tf07m$40l@buffnet2.buffnet.net>, krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt
Rieder) writes:

>  Is there 
>some way to do this with the usual rectifier diodes, diac and SCR
>speed control system for a DC motor without burning it out at double
>the rated voltage ?  My reason for asking this is that I have a
>couple of very nice 48V DC (PM) motors that I would very much like 
>to run on 110 volts with such a variable speed system.
> 
>
>
>

Yes there is, you can use a variac, or a controller.   You caould use a
variac then run it through a bridge rectifier to supply your motors.   For
the best power. you need a DC motor controller which gives the motor a DC
pulse and the speed is worked out by the length of the pulse and the
frequency.

I just finished installing a 1.25 Hp PM motor on a 15 in Mill Drill, it
works great.   It replaced a 2 Hp unit with no problem.  It will drill a
1.25 in hole in 3/8 steel at 20 RPM or mill Al at 6000 RPM with only one
belt change.

Cecil in OK


From fritzs@minn.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:30 EDT 1996
Article: 32141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fritzs@minn.net (fritzs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hossfeld Metal bender help
Date: 1 Aug 1996 10:18:06 GMT
Organization: Minn.Net
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Our shop just purchased a Hossfeld Metal bending system and it looks
pretty neat, but the handbook sucks and the video is so short as to be
almost worthless. Anyone familiar with this machine, have you found any
other books or sources of learning how to use this device. Any help
appreciated. Thanks.


From tfgrain@esva.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:31 EDT 1996
Article: 32142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T&F Grain <tfgrain@esva.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: stainless steel wire
Date: 1 Aug 1996 11:24:46 GMT
Organization: The Eastern Shore of Virginia Network
Lines: 8
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NNTP-Posting-Host: u23.esva.net

QDYA47A@prodigy.com (James Cleveland) writes:
> A while back someone asked for a source of stainless steel wire. 
> there is a company called  Wire Mart Int'l   31 Mulvaney Street  P.O. Box 
> 5959   Asheville, N.C. 28813     (800) 829 - 8936  they will sell any 
> quantity .
>  small quantities  very expensive  abt. $50.00 $.
> 
just buy some mig wire


From miked@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:32 EDT 1996
Article: 32143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: miked@worldnet.att.net (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 14:00:57 GMT
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rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:


>I'm trying my darndest to figure out how to order a Sherline mill and
>associated accessories from Morton Machinery.  Their web page doesn't
>give any clue about how to order (the Sherline page is "under
>construction."), and my e-mail to <Morton_Machinery@msn.com> goes
>unanswered.  If the folks at Morton Machinery are trying to learn "how
>commerce works on the internet," someone should tell them that turning
>out the lights and locking the door when a customer approaches is _not_
>a particularly good way to start.

>Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from Morton, or isn't
>this company for real?

>-- 
A guy on the metal section of CIS has. You have to EMAIL to order and
they only take certified checks or COD I think.



From kyoung@iptcorp.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:33 EDT 1996
Article: 32144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kyoung@iptcorp.com (Ken Young)
Subject: Re: silver solder
Message-ID: <DvFAJM.74q@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <31F06C58.209D@abrasha.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 19:38:09 GMT
Lines: 15

abrasha@abrasha.com (Abrasha) writes:
: As far as I know, silver solder NEVER contains lead.  Lead and silver (and/or gold) are 
: never ever mixed.  The presence of lead, will eat holes in the silver (or gold) during 
: the soldering process, because it forms a weird alloy with the silver (or gold) at low 
: temperatures.
: 
This is close, but not quite on.  The soldering action dissolves a small
amount of the material being soldered.  This can be a real problem
if you are soldering to silver plate or guilding.  The purpose of
silver solder is to have solder that already has enough silver dissolved
in it so it won't dissolve holes in silver plate or guilding.
Some silver solders contain lead, some don't.

Ken Young



From aaelpps@snds.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:35 EDT 1996
Article: 32145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: aaelpps@snds.com (aaelpps)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Newbie: MIG Welder Info
Date: 1 Aug 1996 16:29:22 GMT
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I just purchased a used MIG welder and would like to try to obtain 
the users manual.  The name plate indicates it is made in Italy by 
Telwin for Triple-A-Specialty Co. it is a Model 90065-66, Ver. 0
Does anyone know how I can contact either Telwin or 
Triple-A-Specialty to get info?   I am not a experienced welder and 
would like to pickup a good how-to book on MIG welding, can any 
one suggest a good book(s)?  Thanks in advance.

Phil St.Clair
aaelpps@snds.com





From zawarski@enter.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:36 EDT 1996
Article: 32146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Zawarski <zawarski@enter.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Wanted: Lost wax casters
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 13:57:30 -0400
Organization: ENTER.NET
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32146 rec.models.railroad:69070

Douglas wrote:
> 
> Drop  me a line with your needs. I have 30 years experience
> with LW casting.
> 
> BOULL@AgResearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul) wrote:
> 
> >>I am looking for someone to cast small model railway parts in brass by the
> >>lost wax process.  My current caster is very slow (a year!), pretty expensive
> >>and rather mediocre quality-wise.
> 
> >>My requirements are modest (but will hopefully grow) and I am interested
> >>primarily in quality with price and promptness of lesser importance.
> 
> >>Any suggestions (preferably with full fax/email address - I'm in New Zealand)
> >>would be gratefully received.  Please post here or email direct to
> >>boull@agresearch.cri.nz
> 
> >>Thanks
> 
> >>Lawrence
> 
> Respectfully,
> 
> Douglas
> 
>            "He who knows he knows, knows nothing.
>             He who knows he knows nothing, really knows."
> 
>                                              Spooky Tooth
another suggestion:  winston W. Harness, Metalsmith
Http://www.mmf.com/metal/home/wwh/


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:37 EDT 1996
Article: 32147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 21:01:07 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 71
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References: <00001f0c+00002e11@msn.com> <DvE472.1MM.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> <4tni8q$bp1@venger.snds.com> <4tnubh$f3r@herald.concentric.net>
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To: Jeff Mayhew <jmayhew@pop3.cris.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Jeff Mayhew wrote:
> 
> aaelpps@snds.com (aaelpps) wrote:
> >In article <DvE472.1MM.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>,
> >rnichols@interaccess.com says...
> >>
> >Clipped
> >>
> >>Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from
> >Morton, or isn't
> >>this company for real?
> >
> >Yes, it is real, as I just received my 4400A lathe and 5400 mill just
> >last month with the 20% discount.  I agree it is'nt obvious as to
> >how to contact them as they are still working on the Sherline page,
> >but I used Mark Rogo's email address as shown on the bottom of
> >there home page.   I then received a response from a Ted Robbins,
> >unfortunetly I do not have any email address or phone number for
> >him.  But try Mark's email if you have'nt already.
> >mark@mortonmachinery.com
> 
> I ordered a bunch of Sherline stuff from them recently (deluxe XY
> base, rotary table, steady rest, etc.).  Mark Rogo is the e-mail
> contact, but Ted Robbins is the Sherline guy.  Also, until they get
> their web site together, you can't pay with a credit card, so be
> prepared to send a cashier's check/money order or to have them sit
> on your check until it clears.  Just make up your list of stuff
> with part numbers, and they'll get back to you with a price.
> 
> Jeff Mayhew
> jmayhew@cris.com


Also our good net friend Jim Harvey is a Sherline dealer..

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Jim Harvey Racing Engines


http://hre.com/

Sherline Dealer

Drill bit sharpening
--------------119E2C354751
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Morton Machinery

New/Used machines
Mark Rogo on the newsgroup "rec.crafts.metalworking"
Sherline Dealer


http://www.mortonmachinery.com/
--------------119E2C354751--





From drewid@lanminds.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:38 EDT 1996
Article: 32148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal alloying furnace
Date: 1 Aug 1996 18:39:24 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <4tqtks$34u@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <31FCFDF2.5FC@cc.com> <4tq43i$t36@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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dmarsh00@aol.com (DMarsh00) wrote:
>I can help you out with building a small furnace--send questions if you
>have them.  And no, you can't use plster of paris--per se-for casting. 
>you need a formula for classical investment--its a grog of plaster of
>paris and other materials.

[I'm sure Cynthia meant to say "a mixture of grog (ground fired ceramic),
 plaster of Paris, and other materials".] 

 Check Methods for Modern Sculptors its got
>recipes.
>
>Cynthia

[While this is a fine book, it concentrates exclusively on ceramic shell
 casting, which is a different method entirely.]




Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:27:39 EDT 1996
Article: 32149 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!nntp.coast.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drawing Library
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 07:57:36 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <4tqgps$68o@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <32002F90.10AA@proaxis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 9.seattle-1.wa.dial-access.att.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01E (Win95; I)
To: stangier <stangier@proaxis.com>

stangier wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of a WEB site or location where one can get mechanical drawings. I am
> looking for drawing of real life items that could be scaled down for models.  IE, steam
> locomotives, firearms, machinery.
> 
> In approx a month I will have a 1 1/2" scale Shay done in AutoCad Rel 12. Is there
> anywhere on the net to place these files that would make them available to anyone that
> would want a copy.
> 
> Please E-Mail any suggestions to:
> stangier@proaxis.com

Have you posted to the alt.bin.cad group for autocad yet? I also would 
like to know the answer to this one. -- Bill


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:40 EDT 1996
Article: 32150 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 07:46:58 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 81
Message-ID: <3200C362.59FD@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4too75$ci8@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az5-20.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------266B59BF2BA5"
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01  9:52:25 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: BILLG63475 <billg63475@aol.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------266B59BF2BA5
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

BILLG63475 wrote:
> 
> I compiled a sample of the posts generated in what was threaded rods
> thread and sent it to McMaster directly, here is there response:
> 
> 1>
> 
> Dear Bill G:
> Thank you very much for your concerned note relative to McMaster-Carr's
> catalog distribution.  Our supply is in fact limited but we would be glad
> to
> fax or mail pages of specific items that may be of interest to any of your
> correspondents.
> 
> Thank you again for your consideration.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> J.C. Lwnahan
> Director of Sales
> 
> 2>
> 
> Dear Bill G
> 
> Thanks for very much for your Bad Publicity! note. Our ignoring of
> people is inexcusable and will change immediately.  This is not to say
> that we
> will  change our policy of limiting our catalog distribution, but will
> answer
> denied requests with a letter explaining that we do not have enough
> catalogs  and prefer to do business with manufacturers. We will offer to
> send
> pages  of our catalog for products the requestor is interested in.
> 
>         Yours truly,
>         Jay Delaney
>         President
>         McMaster-Carr Supply Co.

Bill:

Your sure got some response.  At least a NO is better than being
completely ignored.  Nice to know someone at least knows that we exist.

Now to find out about the CD-ROM...  I'm sure is will be costly
but each of us has to determine his/her price level.

Paul in AJ AZ

--------------266B59BF2BA5
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McMaster has a page!

http://www.mcmaster.com/

They give an E-Mail address of

Sales @ McMaster.com

There is mention of a CD-ROM catalog being available.  Price ???

On the web page is a list of distributors and their addresses

As a supplier of general hardware and components
to R&D labs, they have no peer.

--------------266B59BF2BA5--




From tap17@deltanet.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:41 EDT 1996
Article: 32151 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.deltanet.com!vny0140.deltanet.com!user
From: tap17@deltanet.com (Steve Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to stop a falling weight with NO bounce
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 16:31:14 -0700
Organization: Gray Associates
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <tap17-0108961631140001@vny0140.deltanet.com>
References: <tap17-2007961704460001@vny0150.deltanet.com> <JBOBER-2307960804240001@jbober-mac.sed.ida.org> <4t5uut$rif@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960725092715.2661K-100000@reliant> <4te0kn$nqf@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vny0140.deltanet.com

In article <4te0kn$nqf@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU
(Greg Lewis) wrote:

> In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960725092715.2661K-100000@reliant>,
> John R. Johnson <john@siu.edu> wrote:
> >On 24 Jul 1996, Greg Lewis wrote:
> ><snip>
> >> The energy was all absorbed by my toes, so of course, there was no
> >> rebound.  Part of the technique is learning to realize that an object
> >> is in downward motion, and quickly putting your weight on one foot
> >> while moving the other so it is underneath the object being studied.
> 
> 
   You guys are overlooking one thing about catching a dropping weight with
your toes. My method is good for an indefinite number of repeats with no
degradation in the weight catcher, but feet or toes might turn to hamburger
after say 1000 drops. Also replacing beach sand is cheaper than going to the
hospital. Of course the beach is a mile from here but my feet are only about
6' away.

-- 
Steve Gray
Gray Associates
Santa Monica CA
Algorithms, computer graphics
Mechanical inventions


From slogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:42 EDT 1996
Article: 32152 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!slogan
From: Scott Logan <slogan@gnn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 15:39:43
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4tgj24$moh@news-e2c.gnn.com>
References: <31F04AFA.3040@ix.netcom.com> <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com> <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com> <31FAFD33.141@scruznet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 30-180.client.gnn.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 28 Jul 1996 20:37:24 GMT
X-Mailer: GNNmessenger 1.3

Lee,

We have dealt with them for years, and have a catalog, this should be directed at Abrasha

 Scott Logan - Logan Actuator Co.
 SLogan@gnn.com
 http://ourworld.compuserve.com/hompages/LoganAct



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:43 EDT 1996
Article: 32153 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: more specifics on phase converters please
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 08:01:01 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <3200C6AC.6C6C@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tovtv$g04@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <4tqa89$j3d@news2.acs.oakland.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az5-20.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01 10:17:39 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Paul Amaranth <amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu>

Paul Amaranth wrote:
> 
> In article <4tovtv$g04@newsbf02.news.aol.com> lisaclisac@aol.com (Lisaclisac) writes:
> >The paper and schematic from the Metal FAQ's on building a phase converter........... How can a motor rated at 41 amps
> >be wired internally with #10 wire? I usually associate this kind of
> >amperage with #6 or #4 wire.


You might faint if you measured the wire in the windings... 
The line wire sizes are determined by the NEC.

Paul in AJ AZ


> Depends on the current running through the caps.  You can probably use
> #12 without any problem.  If this is for the start caps, then it's
> an intermittent use anyway and you can get away with something smaller than
> required for continuous duty.
> 
> >RE: More on capacitors: The paper suggests fairly broad micrtofarad ranges
> >per horsepower. Is more better? Is higher voltages better?
> For start caps, the more you put on, the faster the thing will come up to
> speed and the greater the initial current draw.  It's a trade off.
> Do you want to keep the start switch pushed for a second or two, or do you
> want to dim your neighbor's lights? :-)  (too much will trip the breaker
> on your line - if that happens, take some off).
> 
> Higher voltage than required electrolytics are probably not a great
> idea.  At least for dc applications, using a cap with too high a voltage
> rating can affect is performance since it won't 'form' properly.  I'd
> stick to something under 440 for a 220 supply.  Also, getting higher
> that required V ratings costs money.
> 
> --
> Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
>                (e-mail)     amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu
>                URL http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:44 EDT 1996
Article: 32154 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ta-Ying Lathe
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 08:03:35 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3200C747.295D@ix.netcom.com>
References: <00001f0c+00002f95@msn.com> <31FEBDEC.34A0@ix.netcom.com> <4tp7lo$6fv@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01 10:17:47 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>

kuhncw wrote:
> 
> Try a visit to your local supplier of bearings and power transmission
> components.  They should have the linked V-belting.  I use it on two
> mills and a Logan lathe.  Just cut the old belt off and install the
> linked belt.  The linked belt runs very well.
> 
> Oh, I believe Grizzly also supplys the linked belting.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Chuck

Guess my mind was out of joint...  The bearing shop should have been my first guess.

Thankss Chuck

Paul in AJ AZ




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:45 EDT 1996
Article: 32155 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need advice on power tools to cut sheet plastic
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 08:08:02 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3200C852.3C9F@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4togl9$9hg@darkstar.ucsc.edu> <3200277D.29E1@scruznet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az5-20.ix.netcom.com
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01 10:17:51 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>

Lee Marshall wrote:
> 
> To achieve the accuracy for the cuts that you want to make, as well as
> the diameters involved, I would recommend a 10" table saw.  This one
> tool will enable you to cut both the miters as well as the parallels. A
> simple jig that drops into the two grooves makes cutting the miters
> easy. I suggest that yougo to the library and check some books on the
> use of power tools and look for jigs and fixtures for use with a table
> saw.
> 
> Lee M

I picked  up a great book, Table Saw Techiques, by Cliffe.

Paul in AJ AZ




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:47 EDT 1996
Article: 32156 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: safety glasses
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 1996 08:15:27 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <3200CA0F.388B@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tpmkt$h1@agate.berkeley.edu> <09960701063919.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: phx-az5-20.ix.netcom.com
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01 10:17:56 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: SLogan@gnn.com

Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> In article <4tpmkt$h1@agate.berkeley.edu>, From
> tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu (Theodore Henry Phares), the following.......-I > can't seem to clean them without putting fine scratches in
> the lenses.
> 
> First suggestion would be to NOT use lens cleaner.  Run them under the
> faucet to loosen the grit, then clean them with plain old soap and
> water.  I've been doing that ever since I caught my optician doing that
> with my brand new pair of prescription lenses......

...........the best protection you want SAFETY GLASS lenses.  My......
.......... Yes, it will be a bit more
> expensive, but what would you expect.  And these will last much longer,
> so it may turn out less expensive in the long run.

Compare the cost of safety glasses to the price you would pay to get an eye back.

> 
> --
>   ---------------------------------------------------
>   From Scott Logan,
>   http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
>   Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
> 

Paul in AJ AZ



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:48 EDT 1996
Article: 32157 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.coast.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 20:53:40 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32002A44.70D6@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4ti720$a6c@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk> <31FF21C3.624A@mb.sympatico.ca>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01  9:37:57 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Henry Kroker <henry@mb.sympatico.ca>

Henry Kroker wrote:
> 
> Richard Griffin wrote:..........

> I agree. Switched power is tricky. You can however run off the line using
> an scr bridge. I service a model with brake accel torque, and aramture
> current control. It's an amasingly simple circuit. Completly analog,
> no transformers, and no hard to get parts.
> 
> It will run up to 2HP 120-240 and you set min and max outputs.
> 
> henry

Come on Henry...  Give us a commercial.  I sure won't flame you.
Probably lots of others would welcome your advice.
Tell us the name of the unit so we can look into it.

Thanks..

Paul in AJ AZ




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:49 EDT 1996
Article: 32158 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 20:58:31 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <32002B67.2B8C@ix.netcom.com>
References: <31F04AFA.3040@ix.netcom.com> <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>
	 <31FE28E8.5EE7@ix.netcom.com> <1996Jul31.085856.24398@roper.uwyo.edu>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------3FAA192B3A88"
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Aug 01  9:39:24 AM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: James Kirkpatrick <jimkirk@uwyo.edu>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------3FAA192B3A88
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

James Kirkpatrick wrote:
> 
> In article <31FE28E8.5EE7@ix.netcom.com>, PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> |>Richard H. Williams wrote:
> |>>
> |>> In article <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
> |>> >From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan).........
> |>
> |>....... They say that their catalog is now available on
> |>> CD-ROM, maybe this will help the smaller purchasers get access.
> |>
> |>Does anyone know if MMC has a website?????
> 
> MSC (not MMC), from the FAQ:
> 
> http://www.industry.net/msc


Here it is:

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McMaster has a page!

http://www.mcmaster.com/

They give an E-Mail address of

Sales @ McMaster.com

On the web page is a list of distributors and their addresses

As a supplier of general hardware and components
to R&D labs, they have no peer.

--------------3FAA192B3A88--





From don@reid.corvallis.or.us Sat Aug  3 11:27:50 EDT 1996
Article: 32159 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!engr.orst.edu!news.peak.org!news
From: Don Reid <don@reid.corvallis.or.us>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze Welding
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 14:00:33 -0700
Organization: Public Electronic Access to Knowlege,Inc
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <31FBD4F1.3845@reid.corvallis.or.us>
References: <31F99C2E.1C0E@worldnet.att.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: midgard65.peak.org
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (WinNT; I)
To: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>

Randy R. Cox wrote:
> 
> Anybody have any tips on welding bronze to bronze.

I recently used copper/phosphorus brazing rod to join brass.
Not quite as strong as welding, but much better than solder.
It is normally sold for use on copper pipe.
-- 
	Don Reid    Home:				Office:
		    don@reid.corvallis.or.us		donr@cv.hp.com
		    541-754-0707			541-715-2726
		    3325 NW McKinley Dr. Corvallis, OR 97330 USA


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:51 EDT 1996
Article: 32160 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!news.bc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 14:02:40 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 70
Message-ID: <31FBD570.E95@ix.netcom.com>
References: <31EEB209.41C67EA6@dirac.phys.uwm.edu> <31F04AFA.3040@ix.netcom.com> <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com> <4tf36h$8jh@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jul 28  2:29:28 PM PDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)
To: Tim Shoppa <shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Tim Shoppa wrote:
> 
> In article <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>, Abrasha  <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:
> >There is that name again, ... McMaster-Carr.  I had heard about them as a good place to
> >do business with, so I called them for a catalogue.
> >
> >What is it with these jerks?  After literally several months of calling for the damned
> >thing I can't seem to wrestle one away from them.  Are they made of gold?
> 
> They may as well be made of gold :-).  They are several thousand
> pages thick, you should realize.  Given their size, they might cost anywhere
> between $10 and $50 to print and ship.  If you were a business, would
> you try to make a profit by sending large volumes of $10 and $50 bills
> to random people who call you on the phone?
> 
> >Every place I have ever called has been more than happy to send me one, and I do
> >business with ALL of them, because they all have good deals on something or other at
> >different times.
> 
> The full McMaster-Carr catalog comes out, I think, no more often than once
> a year.  At the places I've worked at (large national labs) that have catalogs,
> there are at most one or two catalogs per thousand employees.  The
> very most recent catalogs are kept in purchasing and/or stockrooms;
> the year-old ones migrate down a level, appearing in offices of key
> people; if you're an average person, you might be able to inherit a
> catalog which is 4 or 5 years old.  It's not as if the catalogs change
> very much from year to year, anyway - the sort of stuff sold by
> McMaster-Carr is not high in planned obsolesence!
> 
> >McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a penny of business,
> >because of the way they treat potential customers.
> 
> Part of this is the industrial nature of McMaster-Carr.  Their typical
> customer is a company with thousands of employees which might
> make millions of dollars of orders every year, not a guy
> like you or me which dinks around in his garage a couple of nights a
> week.  That said, the salespeople at McMaster-Carr have been happy
> to give me current prices on part numbers I've found in catalogs nearly a
> decade old and they've sold stuff to me which I've purchased on a
> credit card and had shipped to my home address.  Still no new catalog,
> though!
> 
> Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)

--------------2DA749AF1FB2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="MSC.txt"


Supplies, tools, etc.

MSC Industrial Supply Co.
Phone: 1-800-645-7270
FAX:   1-800-255-5067

Fantastic Service and Delivery

I ordered on Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!
--------------2DA749AF1FB2--





From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:53 EDT 1996
Article: 32161 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 14:13:41 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <31FBD805.2E25@ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tf07m$40l@buffnet2.buffnet.net> <4tg64d$qqf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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To: CBear81438 <cbear81438@aol.com>

CBear81438 wrote:
> ........
> Yes there is, you can use a variac, or a controller.   You caould use a
> variac then run it through a bridge rectifier to supply your motors.   For
> the best power. you need a DC motor controller which gives the motor a DC
> pulse and the speed is worked out by the length of the pulse and the
> frequency.
> 
> I just finished installing a 1.25 Hp PM motor on a 15 in Mill Drill, it
> works great.   It replaced a 2 Hp unit with no problem.  It will drill a
> 1.25 in hole in 3/8 steel at 20 RPM or mill Al at 6000 RPM with only one
> belt change.
> 
> Cecil in OK

Tell us more..........

I'd really like a softer start up of my gear head lathe.  I grew up fooling
(and I do mean fooling) with a 10" Logan flat belt drive.  That sudden startup 
of the gearrhead and the noise of gears still gets to me after a year.

I'm just finishing up a table feed (PIM) with a windshield wiper motor that looks 
(to me) to be promising.

Paul in AJ AZ




From geis@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:54 EDT 1996
Article: 32162 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: geis@ix.netcom.com (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted - anvil
Date: 28 Jul 1996 22:38:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I am looking for a large (or medium) used anvil.  Any one have one for sale or 
can you give me a good source for looking for a used one.  I am in the San 
Francisco area. Please e-mail me your response.  Thanks.   geis@ix.netcom.com



From brnzcaster@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:55 EDT 1996
Article: 32163 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze Welding
Date: 28 Jul 1996 22:03:08 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <31FBD4F1.3845@reid.corvallis.or.us>, Don Reid
<don@reid.corvallis.or.us> writes:

>I recently used copper/phosphorus brazing rod to join brass.
>Not quite as strong as welding, but much better than solder.
>It is normally sold for use on copper pipe.
>-- 

This type of rod is low melting and if a clean metal is to be
welded/soldered, little or no flux is required. The main reason I don't
like it is the color-mismatch ... the Easy-Flo brand I've used tends
toward grey after it is heated.
I work mainly with silicon bronze and I cast my own 3/16" rods for TIG
welding this Herculoy-type bronze ... it TIG's beautifully. There is also
a fluxed phos-bronze stick welder rod that can be used on most bronzes
(not high Zn brasses) and for welding bronze to cast iron; I used to buy
it from KAR Products and was about $65 / 5 lbs 12 years ago ... haven't
used it for years.
Most of the stuff I stick together nowadays is small pieces and I use a
45% silver solder and a borax-fluoride paste flux.
Winston

--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--


From anvil@iap.net.au Sat Aug  3 11:27:56 EDT 1996
Article: 32164 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Large anvils
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:09:05 +1000
Organization: IAP Direct
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References: <4shq60$283@cletus.bright.net> <darylb-1707961813090001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <darylb-1807961702560001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960728173946.3789A-100000@supreme>
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Barbara Harvey wrote:
> 
> My daughter Caroline did not know what an anvil was. However, she is
> interested in learning more about such technology. She feels it would be
> good to be able to do ones own blacksmithing. However she is very slight
> in built. Have others here had experience in doing their own
> blacksmithing - particularly, women?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barbara Harvey                   E-mail: bharvey@pcug.org.au
> Canberra ACT Australia. WWW: http://www.pcug.org.au/~bharvey

Barbara
I am a blacksmith/ engineer in Western Aust. I believe any one can hammer 
hot metal. One of my lady friends who was absolutely tiny (Size 8, 50 kg) 
during her sculpture training did quite a bit of blacksmithing.
The big thing to remember is start small. Meaning a small hammer 
(750grams?) and small pieces of steel say under 10mm dia/thickness. The 
other thing to remember is to take it slowly at first.
You might try reading The Modern Blacksmith by Alexander Weygers, 
Prentice Hall Press. Have a look at page 90 where you will find a dominican 
nun hammering at the forge. 
Good luck and let me know how you go
regards
Colin Morton  anvil@iap.net.au


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Sat Aug  3 11:27:58 EDT 1996
Article: 32165 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How can a poor boy cut sheetmetal w/out a shear?
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 02:03:21 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 14
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And a band blade... but only to a certain extent..

On 21 Jul 1996 09:55:45 -0400, gxmiller@aol.com (GXMiller) wrote:

>I've heard that a Skil saw will cut sheet metal better if you put the
>blade in backwards.

Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From johnb@planet.nelson.org.nz Sat Aug  3 11:27:59 EDT 1996
Article: 32166 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnb@planet.nelson.org.nz (John Burgess)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: Attach hard metal pins to 22 ct golden earring
Date: 1 Aug 1996 04:54:22 GMT
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On 29 Jul 1996 07:28:55 GMT, C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:

> I made golden earrings of .25 mm thick sheet of 22 ct gold
> (gold with 4 % Ag and 4 % of Cu) and 0.8 mm thick wires of the same
> alloy soldered to it. After many times of use (a year) the pins
> (wires) broke (not at the solder joint), probably due to metal
> fatigue. Is there a *hard* alloy without nickel which can easily
> be soldered to the gold ? It does not need to be gold.
> Using Ag Cu 28 is an option, but it's melting point is too low and 
thus hard
> to solder.
> I use 22 ct gold because of the 'real gold' color because 18 and 
particularly
> 14 ct gold look like the paler brass.
> 
> Klaas
>Firstly you can buy gold of any carat value you need, and any 
colour  (within reason) but the colours should really be called hues o
r tints.  For instance, green gold isn't really green, but does have  
a greenish hue and the same can be said for red gold which has a sort 
of rosy tint.   Gold or silver can only be hardened by working, and so
ftened by heat.  To harden gold or silver wires (carat or sterling)  
hold one end of the wire in a vice and twist the wire from the other 
end  with a pair of pliers - you'll have to guess when to stop, 
although you can try the hardness by attempting to gently bend the 
wire.  You can easily sharpen one end to a point with a fine file or 
abrasive paper and  gold-solder  the other end to your work.   There 
are plenty of good books on jewellery - try your library and if they 
haven't got any ask them to get you some on interloan. That's how 
many excellent amateur jewellers learnt.  best of luck end every good 
wish
John Burgess.



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:00 EDT 1996
Article: 32167 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:50:08 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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If the steel is rusted and caused the pinholes, you can
never stop the rust and the solder will be a very temporary
fix.

The only proper way to fix the tank is cut out the rusty 
metal (where it is thin, of course) and then weld in
a replacement section.  While you have the tank open,
clean out as much rust as possible.

*******  Don't cut the tank open with anything that causes
sparks unless you fill the tank with Nitrogen (or water),
whatever is appropriate for your cutting tool.

Then, after you have repaired the tank, put in a dilute
mixture of metal prep (Phosphoric acid) and let it kill
the rest of the rust.  Then, after drying the tank, coat
the inside with an appropriate coating.  It might be that
the gasoline tank coatings may be of use here.

The tank will outlast the rest of the hardware when you
get done and it will not leak again.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From rfra@rsvl.unisys.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:01 EDT 1996
Article: 32168 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!eanews1!rsvl_ns!ernie!news
From: Bob Frazier <rfra@rsvl.unisys.com>
Subject: Re: Wherefrom lard oil?
Sender: news@rsvl.unisys.com (News Admin)
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 19:03:09 GMT
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John Ingham wrote:
> 
> On 26 Jul 1996 10:18:59 -0700, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
> wrote:
> 
> >
> >Lard oil is often recommended as the cutting fluid of choice for steel
> >yet I don't see it in any catalog, and my friend who works for an
> >industrial supply company can't find a source. Is this just
> >supermarket lard?	As I went through the supermarket last night I picked up a pound 
of lard to test out at home. I mixed 1 cup lard with a half cup kerosene
with a little ATF for a lovely pink color. Tested by tapping deep holes
in aluminum, worked ok. A nice pastel blue for contrast would be ducky.
	Bob


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:28:02 EDT 1996
Article: 32169 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: 1 Aug 1996 21:07:15 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 19
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In article <31FF496E.B26@atc.alcoa.com>, cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com wrote:

> While we're on the subject, is there any difference 
> in nomenclature for cross peen hammers which have 
> the peen parallel to the direction of the handle, 

Stright pien.

> vs. perpendicular?  Just curious....

Cross pien.

> Brian

Cheers
Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:28:03 EDT 1996
Article: 32170 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 1 Aug 1996 21:23:06 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <darylb-0108961727580001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
References: <4ti720$a6c@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk> <31FF21C3.624A@mb.sympatico.ca> <4tpg7v$qub@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <4tpg7v$qub@buffnet2.buffnet.net>, krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt
Rieder) wrote:
> Hi... I'm back again... after starting this thread, I'm amazed at all
> the ground that has been covered... but still not clear on what would 
> be a simple solution to my problem.  Allow me to restate the question.
> 
> I want to run a 48 VDC PM motors from the house 110 VAC power.  I know
> that I could use a variac or step down transformer, but either would
> be bulkier, heavier, costlier than the motor.  I do know how to build 
> a conventional SCR speed control for a DC motor.  This would give a
> 120 Hz pulse rate, and delay of SCR turn-on would get rid of the lower
> voltage part of the half wave and keep the high voltage peaks (after 
> the SCR turns on) which would be close to 3X the motors voltage rating.
> 
> I see that Sherline uses a 90 VDC PM motor on their tools and that they 
> can run the same tool on 110 OR 220 VAC by merely changing the plug that
> goes into the wall socket for their export model.  What they do, seems to
> be the answer to my problem.  How do they get rid of the extra voltage ?
> I don't think we are talking about a switch mode power supply here.  But
> if someone could look inside a Sherline box... it would be very helpfull.
> Seems like if they can run a 90V motor on 220V, I should be able to run
> a 48V motor on 110V ?  What do I need ?  Or can I just allow the SCR control
> to limit motor current to a safe value and forget about voltage (keeping my
> fingers crossed and hope that the armatur winding don't arc over). ???
> I surely don't want to build a switch mode power supply.

If I were doing this on the cheap I would use a dimmer to control the wall
AC. That would be fed into a bridge followed by an inductor (say 1mH) and
cap (say 6800uF).  Just be sure all parts including the dimmer can handle
the current. Given the lack of transformer you might want a dimmer that
starts from zero rather than pop on/off. This will (if started slowly)
limit the surge current into your filter cap. The extra 20V shouldn't be
deadly for a 90V motor and the savings of no transformer is large. 
I did this for a 24VDC motor (I had to use a transformer) where I needed
variable speed and smooth operation. It worked fine. Switched mode
supplies (currently designing my first) are for high efficiency and
compact size (switching power at 128,000Hz say, means much smaller
transformers - smaller power/cycle) which you likely don't need.

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:04 EDT 1996
Article: 32171 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com (Kurt Schaefer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: advice on Gingery How-To series
Date: 1 Aug 1996 17:34:50 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <4tqprq$760@fido.asd.sgi.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: snufkin.engr.sgi.com


I've built the Gingery Foundry.  It's been very fun and educational.
I have some anecdotes about it written up at:

http://reality.sgi.com/empolyees/kurts_engr/foundry.page.html

  -Kurt



From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:06 EDT 1996
Article: 32172 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 2 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101604.24427@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:04 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 2
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:04 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 680

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 2 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

4.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?

    Who makes good cars?  This is almost purely a personal preference,
    though in general the imported machines (Grizzly, Jet, Enco) seem
    to rate lower than US-built machines (South Bend, Bridgeport).  However,
    the imports are usually MUCH less expensive, offsetting some of the
    quality issues for home shops.  It has also been reported that South
    Bend has been going "downhill" lately.

    There is some indication that Grizzly equipment is slightly better
    than other "Taiwanese" machines such as Enco, and that Jet is slightly
    better than Grizzly.  Prices go up with quality.

    One of the main complaints about Taiwanese machinery is the lack of
    replacement parts and service.  Grizzly claims that they keep a supply
    of parts on hand for all their machines.  The same factories appear to
    turn out Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and the "no-name" machinery.  A few years
    ago Fine Woodworking magazine published an article on this subject.

    Unimats are sometimes considered "toys" rather than real machines,
    though they may do just what you want if you don't push them hard.
    Some Unimat owners are quite pleased, in fact (hi Reg!).
    The Unimat PC may be a nice small CNC lathe; any experiences?

    Unimat, Sherline, and Taig are "micro lathes" in that the swing over the
    bed is less than 5 inches, and the bed is about a foot long.  Sherline
    and Taig are made in the US, and Unimat is made in Austria (and hence
    uses metric threads, e.g. in the spindle thread, which may be a pain
    to US buyers).  Sherline and Taig both use 3/4 inch x 16 threads in the
    spindle and can thus interchange accessories*.  The Taig cannot cut
    threads, while the Sherline and Unimat can (with accessories).  Sherline
    and Unimat sell a milling add-on.  The Taigs come in unbundled kit form
    where you have to buy everything; they claim an overall accuracy of
    .0004 inch and have excellent parts and service, and also sell a
    watchmaking headstock.  Taig is the cheapest at about $250 to get
    started, about $450 for Sherline.  It appears the only Unimat now
    being sold is the CNC "Unimat PC", at about $750.  Unimat seems to
    charge quite a bit more than normal for accessories.  Just keep in
    mind that these are not as rigid or powerful as full-sized lathes.

    * It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16
    spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessed
    far enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, not
    enough to be usable.  However, one reader bored out the back of a
    Taig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports it
    threads on his Sherline quite well now.  So, be careful if purchasing
    a Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!

    Harbor Freight sells a "precision 4x10" mini-lathe for around $700
    with autofeed, change gears for most english threads at extra cost.
    It is actually a 7" lathe which takes standard 2MT tailstock tooling
    and 3/8" cutting tools, and has Electronic Variable Speed (EVS)
    instead of changeable belts.  This is larger and sturdier than the
    Unimat/Sherline/Taig, and sounds similar to the 8" Grizzly except
    for the EVS.

    What can you do if you have little money?  Aside from looking at used
    equipment, you can actually build a lathe and other machine tools.
    Dave Gingery wrote an excellent series of books on building your own
    machine tools with just hand tools.  While it's a lot of work, you
    can learn a lot.  First you make an aluminum charcoal foundry, then
    a lathe, and finish up with a dividing head (five or six books later).
    Other authors have published detailed plans for making lathes.  See
    the publisher's catalogs from Lindsay, Cole's, Power Model, Tee,
    Nexus, and Argus.

    A very thorough discussion of vertical mills and what to look for
    was in Home Shop Machinist, July/August and September/October 1993,
    by Thomas Howard.  Here is a very brief summary:
     1.  Spindle-to-table distance, or "daylight."  Remember that by the
         time you clamp your work in a vise on a rotary table then slap a
         chuck with a drill into the spindle, you might run out of room.
         Try to anticipate your needs.
     2.  Knee mills:  A mill where you can raise/lower the table with a
         crank, as opposed to only raising/lowering the head and/or quill.
         Knee mills are generally more useful and accurate.
     3.  Spindle brake:  Locks the spindle during tool-changing.  Very
         nice to have.
     4.  Power downfeed on spindle.  A very nice option, relieves tedium
         when boring, and often yields better surface finish.
     5.  Spindle taper: determines what type of tooling you can "plug in"
         to the spindle.  R-8 is most popular, and there's lots of inexpensive
         tooling.  Morse and Brown&Sharpe exist and are less popular.
     6.  Bearings:  Apparently it's not as important whether they are ball
         roller bearings, as the grade.  And the better the grade, the
         longer the machine lasts, more than anything else.
     7.  Table sizes and travel:  Like lathes, you can always use one an
         inch larger!  Don't buy one larger than you have room for.
         From 6x20 (inch) to 8x30 seems right for most home shops.  What
         will you be doing with it?
     8.  Power feed on X/Y axes.  Very nice to have, just barely falls
         into the "luxury" status.
     9.  Table and knee locks:  Used to maintain rigid setups when one
         of the axes won't be changed during an operation.  Check for
         easy access and that they lock solidly.
     10. Graduated dials with adjustable zero: an absolute necessity.
     11. Adjustable gibs: a necessity.
     12. Range and number of speeds.  An average is 100-2500 rpm,
         and 12 to 16 speeds.  Howard goes into great depth in his
         article to explain why you need both a wide range of rpm
         and many speed, and how those speeds should be spread out
         in a geometric progression.
     13. Motors: be sure you get a motor you can run.  Check frequency
         (60 or 50 Hz), voltage, and 1-phase vs 3-phase.  For home-shop
         use, anywhere from 3/4 to 1-1/2 seems right.
     14. One-shot oilers are nice but in many cases they don't work right
         and are hard to check.
     15. Look.  If at all possible, examine the machine you want, before
         you buy.
     16. Buying used:  you should be experienced enough to know what to
         test for!  Or "borrow" somebody who is.
     17. Will it fit?  Be sure it can be moved to where you want it.
         Don't buy then find the stairwell is smaller than you thought.
         Get professional movers to do the moving; "real" mills are
         literally "killers."
     18. Tooling:  can sometimes double the cost.

    ........................................

    The following comments, regarding the Central Machinery (Harbor
    Freight Salvage) "Precision 7"x10" Mini Lathe", were originally
    sent to John Kopf in response to a query of his, asking the
    opinions of this versus the Grizzley 8x18 lathe.

    Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1993 09:40:15 CST
    From: <U39466%UICVM@UIC.EDU> (Gordon Pari)

    I own a 7 x 10 mini-lathe offered by Harbor Freight.  First, the
    good points.  Compact size useful for relatively large turnings...easy
    to move/store....tight headstock bearings....nice 3-jaw Yamakawa (japanese)
    chuck....good cross-feed and compound feed...good accuracy overall...
    Mt2 tailstock compatability...fun to use...3/4" hole in spindle....
    quiet without feed engaged....relatively easy to set-up tooling...
    cuts threads.....has chip tray...uses cheap 3/8 tooling.

    Now for the down side....motor on mine with a Dremel speed control
    substituted for the factory setup has good high-speed power but is
    lacking in low-speed torque....my set-up produces surges of rpm 
    occasionally... newer version appear to have 2-speed setup that may help...
    HF parts supply is limited....I could not get jaws for the chuck (I need
    inside gripping because they were missing..used equipment!)...feed
    screw is poorly mounted/designed and uses up a lot of available
    power.....split nut on carriage is prone to disengage...the motor is
    120V DC fed by a rectifier and that may be part of my problem..
    manual carriage feed wheel/mechanism is not smooth and perhaps
    needs bushed.

    Overall, I love it because I bought it used needing some repairs
    for $95.  Enco in Chicago now offers it for $1000.  They are more
    reputable than HF IMHO.  They also cannot provide my jaws or a
    specifically designed 4-jaw.  If I paid $800 I would want the
    split-nut and RPM/POWER problems completely eliminated.  After
    my initial $95, I have spent about $65 for a live center and tools
    from Enco.  I use it weekly and am learning a lot.  A friend who
    is a lathe operator has used it and is impressed.  I hope this helps.
    If you buy one and find solutions/parts, keep me posted.

    Date: Tue, 23 Nov 93 14:48:23 -0800
    From: Greg Saville <gregs@sequent.com>

    Just one comment, if you end up ordering the Harbor Freight one, DON'T 
    order the $43.00 threading gear set.  Though it's not clear in the 
    catalog, it already DOES come with the lathe (unless you order the 
    ~$550 version that says "same as above, but without threading 
    capability.") ...

    I've enjoyed the lathe, have been pretty happy with it, but have no 
    other experience to be able to compare it to any other like the Grizzly
    you're also looking at.


    Date: Tue, 30 Nov 93 14:18:01 EST
    From: fisher@gaas.enet.dec.com

    I purchased one of these mini-lathes this summer.

    Since then I have read a few books and learned much about lathes.

    If I had to do it over again I would purchase the Grizzly "8"x18" Lathe 
    you mentioned.  I kinda like the mini-lathe for 1) the size and 2)
    the variable speed motor.  What I don't like is 1) Support (I had
    a bent shaft on my cross slide and called them back within 48 hours
    after receiving the lathe and I still haven't received the replacement
    part - I think they ordered it from Korea.), 2)  It is sufficiently 
    non-standard that Nobody makes a 4 jaw chuck for it or any other
    bolt on accessories such as a steady rest or a follow rest.

    But it seems to work and I have been having fun with it and learning.
    The size is great - I just finished cutting about 50 brass port holes
    for a model tub boat.

5.  Where do I buy a machine?

    Check out the Yellow Pages, the ads in the magazines, and catalogs
    from the "names and addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ.
    For example:

      Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc
      Alley Supply Company
      Enco
      Grizzly
      MSC

6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?


    - The Home Shop Machinist (HSM), "dedicated to precision metalworking"
      Published 6/year by Village Press (see addresses section), $24.50/year.
      Note that many back issues are not available, though most of the
      projects are available in the "Projects" book series.  Mostly
      techniques, no steam, some gasoline engine projects, many tooling
      projects.  Probably the best of the US magazines.  Some projects
      will span several issues.

    - Projects In Metal (PIM).
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $19.
      Mostly projects, few advertisements.  Each project is complete in one
      issue.  A "weak sister" to HSM, apparently started in part to handle
      overflow projects from HSM.  Earlier back-issues have been combined
      into a new book series called "Metalworking".

    - Live Steam Magazine.
      Published 6 times per year by Village Press, $31.
      Mostly trains, some techniques, some stationary engines, lots of
      history and club information.  Usually each issue has one stationary
      engine and two locomotive construction projects in various stages.

    - Model Engineer's Workshop
      Published bimonthly by Argus (or is it now Nexus?).
      Described as the British version of HSM, and similar to the
      tool-oriented writing in Model Engineer.  U.S. subscription rate
      is $38.  More "packed" than HSM, and features the uniquely
      English way of doing machining (e.g., spending hours to
      make a cutter to make the cutter for gear cutting, when many of
      us in the US would just order the gear cutter and be done with it).
      See the Model Engineer entry, below, for details on subscriptions.

    - Modeltec.  "Machinist Projects of Beauty and Usefulness"
      Published by George R. Broad, 12 per year.
      P.O. Box 1226
      St. Cloud, MN 56302
      Phone: (612) 654-0815
      http://www4.infoanalytic.com/modeltec
      $36 per year ($45 in U.S. funds if outside U.S.).
      Similar to Live Steam but not restricted to trains.  Lots of projects
      for railroad cars.

    - Strictly IC
      (IC stands for Internal Combustion)
      Published 6 times per year.
      $24.25 (+$2.00 US foreign, WA residents add $2.00 sales tax)
      Robert A. Washburn, editor
      24920 43rd Avenue S.
      Kent, WA  98032

      Concentrates on construction of miniature internal combustion engines,
      and has a few classified ads, usually for engine castings.

    - Gas Engine Magazine
      P.O. Box 328
      Lancaster, PA  17603
      (717) 392-0733, (717) 392-1341 (FAX)

    - Model Engineer
      Published twice each month, about $79 US/year (as of 2/2/95)
      Formerly published by Argus, now by Nexus.
      Their USA agent (also for Model Engineer Workshop) is Wise Owl
      Worldwide Services.

      The king of model machining magazines it has been around for about
      100 years.  Varied construction articles, lots on trains.  Some
      projects can take years to complete!  Extensive back-issues are
      available from Tee, and we presume from Argus/Nexus since
      they publish it in the first place!

      An index to back issues is available from:
      G.V. Wilkinson
      129 Springside Road
      Hillcrest 3610
      South Africa
      The index used to cost 30 pounds sterling, and is reportedly much
      better than Guy Lautard's.

      A computer-readable index is apparently available from Henri Larose,
      covering about 30 years (growing as he gets time to do more).  Cost
      is 30 UK pounds if in the UK, or $30 US if in the US.  Contact the
      author vie e-mail at 73114.3203@compuserve.com.  Or, his mail address
      is 211 Lanitos Ave, Sunnyvale Ca 94086.

    - Engineering in Miniature
      Published monthly, about $30/year.
      Tee Publishing

      Similar to Model Engineer, more steam traction engines.
      Has an extensive collection of back issues of this and other
      model magazines.

    - Clockmaker
      Published 6 times per year, around $30/year
      Tee Publishing
      Discusses how to build mechanical clocks, with many projects spanning
      several issues.  Big names like John Wilding write in this magazine.
      Classified ads for clockmaking supplies.

    - Workshop Masters
      Published by Tee, ceased regular publication in 1991.

    - American Machinist
      Penton Publishing
      1100 Superior Ave.
      Cleveland, OH 44114-2543
      (216) 696-7000, (216) 696-0177 (FAX)
      One of those free trade publications with lots of ads.

    - Metalworking Digest
      Gordon Publications, Inc.
      301 Gibralter Drive, Box 650
      Morris Plains, NJ  07950-0650
      (201) 292-5100, (201) 898-9281 (FAX)
      Another free trade publication with lots of ads.

    - Modern Machine Shop
      6600 Clough Pike
      Cincinnati, OH 45244-4090
      (513) 231-8020, (513) 231-2818 (FAX)
      Another free trade publication with lots of ads.

    - Horn & Whistle
      Richard Weisenberher
      2655 North Friendship, Lot #8
      Paducah, Kentucky  42001
      $18 per year.  Low budget, in that they publish anything people send
      in.  Some technology, some nostalgia, lots of stuff on meets where they
      get together and have "steam blasts."

    - Traction Engine Magazine

    - The Anvil's Ring
      This is the publication of ABANA (see below, associations)
      published 6 times a year; cost is $24 per year, or you get
      it as part of the $35 dues for joining ABANA.  An index is
      currently being maintained:
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ABANA/RingIndex.txt
      The newsletter of one of their chapters,  BAM (Blacksmith's
      Association of Missouri), is kept at:
        http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/BAM.html
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/00Latest/
        ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/News/BAM/
        For more info on BAM contact: Jim McCarty <JimfromLC@aol.com>

    - Anvil
      Published monthly, about $30 per year
      See Centaur Forge, elsewhere.

    - American Craft (bi-monthly) (jewelry)
      published by the American Craft Council
      40 West 53rd St.
      New York, NY 10019
      (212)956-3535
      Current work in metal, clay, glass, wood, textiles, mixed media;
      featured artists, calendar of events.

    - Metalsmith (quarterly) (jewelry)
      published by Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG)
      5009 Londonderry Drive
      Tampa, FL 33647
      (813)977-5326, (813)977-8462 fax
      Jewelry, techniques, featured artists, current exhibits.
      An index is at:  
         ftp://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/SNAG/Metalsmith_Index.txt
      A contact is: Bob Mitchell <rmitchel@cftnet.com>

    - Ornament (quarterly)
      P.O. Box 2349
      San Marcos, CA 92079
      Jewelry (metal and beads) and textile/fiber art.

    - Machinery Journal
      P.O.Box 7767
      Long Beach, CA
      (310) 595-5731, (310) 424-1563 (FAX)

      Free.  A monthly list of machinery dealers.

    - Punch Press News
      P.O.Box 127
      Toledo, OH 43607
      (800) 255-0114, (913) 983-4398 (FAX)
      http://www.machinetools.com

      A sort of classified listing of machinery, alphabetical by type of
      machine; very neatly laid out.  Apparently costs $10 for a subscription.

    - Weldon F. Stump & Co.
      1313 Campbell
      Toledo, OH 43607
      (419) 243-6221, (419) 243-7277 (FAX)

      No prices, just inventory numbers of used machines, alphabetically
      listed by type.

    - Locator
      Published by the MDNA (Machinery Dealers National Association) in
      Silver Springs, MD, (301) 585-9494.  A monthly listing of used
      machinery.  You can call them for a free list of dealers, and/or
      a free issue of Locator.

    - Used Equipment Directory/Network
      P.O. Box 823
      Hasbrouck Heights, NJ  07604-0823
      (201) 393-9558, (800) 526-6052, (201) 393-9553 (FAX)
      BBS (201) 625-2636 8N1 modem settings
      telnet buyused.hsix.com or http://www.hsix.com

      Used equipment list, available on-line or in printed form.  They
      reportedly will give you one free copy of the printed magazine for
      evaluation.

    - INDUSTRIAL MACHINE TRADER
      P.O. Box 1415
      Fort Dodge, IA 50501
      (800) 247-2000, (515) 955-3753 FAX

      A heartland Industrial Group Publication.
      "The only weekly nationwide publication that links active buyers and
      sellers of new and used industrial Machinery"

    - The Surplus Record
      20 N. Wacker Dr.
      Chicago, IL 60606
      (312) 372-9077, (312) 372-6537
      tscanlan@surplusrecord.com
      http://www.surplusrecord.com

      An industrial database of used and surplus machinery and equipment.
      There is also a Listserv: "machine@surplusrecord.com" where users can 
      e-mail their machine tool inquiries, whether the machine(s) are wanted 
      or for sale.

7.  Where might one take classes or get instruction?

    This depends on several factors, mostly where you live.  Good places
    to check out include community colleges (universities sometimes will
    have classes in metalworking, but perhaps only for already-enrolled
    students or faculty/staff).  Sometimes a high school will offer night
    or weekend classes to the public, funding permitting.  Also look for
    vocational/technical schools, and possibly even art schools since some
    metal sculpturing requires a firm background in welding.  In a few cases
    there may be specialized schools in your area, so check your yellow
    pages or ask around.

    Some examples:  John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown NC
    (800) 562-2440, Craft Center in Ripley WV.

    Some schools also offer room and board and/or campground hookups.

8.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?

    The Yellow Pages are often a good place to start.  Also,
    the advertisements in magazines like Home Shop Machinist.

    Another way is to go find your nearest junk yard and/or metal recycling
    business and scrounge around.  Make friends with a machinist at the
    nearest mining operation and ask for their throwaway "scraps".  Order
    from a supply company (see ads in the magazines, and/or the "names
    and addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ).

    Sometimes you can discover a creative re-use.  For example, buy a few
    old aluminum automotive pistons, perhaps from your junk yard or a
    garage that rebuilds engines.  Cut off the top and clean it up on your
    lathe.  Now you have a nice round blank to start some project with.
    Similar discoveries should be posted to the newsgroup!

    Some of the magazines have ads for small "garage" shops that produce
    specialized castings.

9.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?

    Many of the places that sell equipment also sell tools
    but there are also outlets that only sell accessories such as
    lathe bits, drills, taps, and so on.  Scan the "names and
    addresses" section elsewhere in this FAQ.

10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?

    ABANA - Artist Blacksmiths Association of North America
    PO Box 206
    Washington, MO 63090
    (314) 390-2133
    Dues are $35 per year, which also includes their publication
    "The Anvil's Ring" (see earlier, magazines)

    The British counterpart is apparently the BABA (British Artist Blacksmiths
    Association) but I don't have an address for them.

    The American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)
    345 East 47th Street
    New York, NY 10017
    (800) 843-2763, toll-free Mexico phone: 95-800-843-2763
    toll phone: (201) 882-1167; fax: (201) 882-1717 & (201) 882-5155
    email: infocentral@asme.org

    The ASME publishes codes and standards for drafting, pressure vessels,
    machine tool accuracy, etc.  There was recently a thread in which a
    gentleman asked about alternate sources for an ANSI standard (published
    by the ASME).  Unfortunately, the third-party publishers charge more
    for these documents than the ASME does (the originator).  In this
    particular case the third-party wanted $100 for a standard that the
    ASME charges $23 for.

    The Society of Model & Experimental Engineers (SMEE)
    Marshall House
    28 Wanless Road
    London
    SE24 0WH

    Society of North American Gold Smiths, SNAG
    5009 Londonderry Drive
    Tampa, FL 33647
    (813)977-5326, (813)977-8462 fax
    They publish the quarterly magazine Metalsmith (q.v.), and a bi-monthly
    newsletter, and you get both for the $55 membership.  The membership also
    gives you a discount on the annual conference.  You can also contact
    them via e-mail at rmitchel@cftnet.com.

    MDNA (Machinery Dealers National Association)
    Silver Spring, MD
    (301) 585-9494

    You can call them, or drop e-mail to morton@interserv.com for a list of
    machinery dealers.  They publish a magazine called the Locator which
    lists over 25,000 separate metalworking machines each month; you can also
    ask them for a single free copy if you don't want to subscribe.

    American Welding Society (AWS)
    (800) 443-9353, (305) 443-9353
    http://www.amweld.org/

    "Founded in 1919, the American Welding Society is dedicated to providing
    high quality services to our members and the industry which will advance
    the science, technology and applications of materials joining throughout
    the world."

    ASTM -- American Society for Testing and Materials
    (610) 832-9585

    Publishes various manuals and publications relating to metalworking,
    among other things.

11. How do I harden/temper metal?

    Heat treating is a *huge* subject, and depends on the metal, and
    intended use.  Most of the time, this question is asked regarding steel,
    so we'll give a brief description of that, based on an article in Home
    Shop Machinist (Sept/Oct 1991, "Heat Treating Basics" by Steve Acker).

[Also thanks to Steve Gaudio (?) for his post of 18-Sep-1992,
 and clarification by Tim Eisele]

    Iron will, at common temperatures, organize itself into an atomic
    structure that is called "body centered cubic."  This consists of
    overlapping cubes with an atom at each corner, and one more in the
    center of the cube.  But above roughly 1400 degrees F there is a
    change in structure to "face centered cubic" and the central atoms
    migrate to the faces of the cubes.  This latter form is not magnetic.

    Steel is basically iron with some carbon mixed in, though modern
    alloys have various other metals and substances as well.  When
    steel is heated to the critical temperature (about 1400 degrees F),
    the iron will change to face centered, and the carbon atoms will
    migrate into the central position formerly occupied by an iron atom.
    This form of red-hot steel is called austentite.  Since it is not
    magnetic, a magnet may be used to determine when the critical
    temperature has been reached (though the magnetism may be lost
    before the transition, so this is only approximate).  Complete
    migration of the carbon atoms may take a minute or two.

    If you let this cool slowly, the iron atoms migrate back into the cube
    and force the carbon back out, resulting in soft steel called pearlite.
    If the sample was formerly hard, this softening process is called
    annealing.

    If you cool (quench) the sample suddenly by immersing it in oil or
    water, the carbon atoms are trapped, and the result is a very hard,
    brittle steel.  Too brittle for most uses.  The structure is now a
    body centered tetragonal form called martensite.

    So, the next step is to heat it back up, to between 200 and 800
    degrees F or so, depending on the desired end hardness.  This allows
    some of the hardness to relieved and is called tempering.  The
    amount of tempering that is desirable depends on the final use.
    Cutting tools are very hard, knife blades less so because they
    must flex under use rather than break.  Tempering is a trade-off
    between hardness and flexibility.

    Accurately measuring the tempering temperature is important.  A
    nice, expensive thermostatically-controlled oven is great.  Or,
    some special compounds can be applied that melt or change color at
    the right temp, such as Tempilstik and Tempilaq.  If the steel is
    clean to start with, then you may notice that it goes through
    certain color changes as it heats up, with understandably vague
    descriptions such as "light straw" indicating about 440 degrees F,
    and purple=520.  These colors are not incandescence colors, but
    are viewed in normal room light.  The colors are due to types of
    surface oxidation that are temperature dependent.

    When quenching, it is often very important to avoid stirring a
    part because this will cool one side much more quickly than
    the other, and might cause warping.  For knife blades, as an
    example, move it strictly up and down during the quench.

    Case hardening is a bit trickier, and involves heating the object in
    some sort of agent that promotes hardening at the surface.  Liquid
    cyanide works well but should be out of the question for the home
    machinist.  Luckily there are substitutes available from suppliers,
    one being called Kasenit, for example.  Note that hardness is
    often measured using a "Rockwell C" scale, with 63 being very hard
    and 35 being fairly soft.

    A type of steel called "drill rod" is especially useful for home/hobby
    use.  As its name implies, it is the type of steel used for drills,
    and is available is round or square form (square drills?).  Drill
    rod is also very useful around the shop because it is usually made
    to very accurate dimensions.  Some types of drill rod are formulated
    for hardening via heating then quenching in oil, while others are
    quenched in water.  The difference is that water will cool more quickly
    because it's a good conductor (though it may also form a steam "jacket"
    that moderates this effect), while oil will cool more slowly.  Since
    rapid cooling may warp a part, this could make a difference in the
    final product.

    There is also an "air hardening" steel, though it seems to be
    quite a bit more expensive than other steels.

    It has been reported, by way of example, that you can make springs
    out of hacksaw blades by annealing, bending, hardening, then tempering
    by heating to a "metallic blue" and quenching in oil.  I suspect lots
    of experimenting may be in order before you get things just right.
    Remember the steel must be clean (no paint etc.) to see the colors.

    Quenching in oil may be a fire hazard.  Take proper precautions, such
    as removing flammable materials from the area, wear proper clothing,
    and have an extinguisher handy.  Even quenching in water presents
    the risk of scalding from steam or splattered water.

    As one newsgroup reader pointed out, not only are there a gerbillion
    alloys, but zillions of treatments to choose from, and this is just
    for steels.  Other metals, like brass, can be hardened by "working"
    the metal, by bending, hammering, peening, etc.  Brass is usually
    annealed with a quench, which is the opposite of steel.

    It's best to carefully research your particular project first,
    especially if it's something that is valuable.

    A recent book, "Simplified Tool Steel Heat Treatment and Selection
    Guide" by Bill Bryson, may be of some help.
    $31.95 from Bill Bryson, Dept. HSM, RR 1, Box 4243, Union, NH 03887.
    I purchased this, and was surprised to spend $32 on 100 pages of
    loose-leaf pages.  The information is geared more towards the small
    commercial shop than the home shop, and thus deals with issues such
    as atmospheric control (using stainless-steel foil) and using accurate
    temperatures.  In the home shop, we usually read about methods like
    "hit it with a torch then drop it in a bucket of oil."  Bryson goes
    beyond this, discussing accurate methods that might be out of reach
    for some of us, but just barely.  He also has a chapter on cryogenic
    treatment, that can also be used in the home shop via dry ice.
    http://www.worldpath.net/~hisaim for more info and ordering info.

    Power Model Supply recently (December 1992) listed two small heat
    treating ovens in an HSM ad.   2000 degrees F, 4x4x4 inch $330,
    6x6x6 $435.  Write them for more info or see the ad.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:07 EDT 1996
Article: 32173 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 5 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101609.24430@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:09 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 5
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:10 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 845

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 5 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

25.  What is Damascus steel?

     We often see the question "what is Damascus steel" and the next
     question, "how do I make it" or "where do I get it".  In an attempt
     to answer this question, I've put together several responses that
     have shown up in the past.

     ---------------------------
     From: dgerty@cclink.draper.com (Dave Gerty)
     Wadsworth, Kum and Sherby wrote a good article in Metal Progress, June
     '86, presenting the welded Damascus and Japanese steels as well as the
     original wootz material.  Sherby and Wadsworth wrote a very readable 6
     page article in Scientific American (Feb 1985). Most modern and
     medeival European Damascus steel is pattern welded, but the original
     material was thermomechanically processed from wootz to produce the
     pattern. To paraphrase/plagarize a little:

     Damascus steel is named for the place where Europeans first
     encountered it during the crusades.  The steel itself was made in
     India, where it was known as wootz.  It was traded in the form of
     castings or cakes about the size of a hockey puck.  The Indians either
     added carbon to wrought iron (very low carbon) or removed it from pig
     iron (>4% C).
     ---------------------------
     From: johnri@saturn.wwc.edu (RICHARD ALLAN JOHNSON)
     "Damascus" steel is usually created nowadays when 2 materials with 
     differing carbon content or differing properties such as high and low
     carbon or high carbon and nickel are forge welded together to form
     one solid billet.  My experience is that in general, Damascus does
     not stay shaving-sharp as long as straight carbon steel but when it
     dulls it leaves a microscopic saw edge that will cut flesh like
     nothing else.
     ---------------------------
     From: sfm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SCOTT F. MASTROIANNI)
     Simply speaking, Damascus steel is an antiquated term popularly used
     to describe various pattern welded steels.  The term was originally
     used to describe steel from Damascus which had intricate and subtle
     patterns in it due to the way the steel was made and wrought -- the
     pattern was a by-product rather than a set goal.  These steels
     contain alternate layers of differing alloy steels that have been
     forge welded together into a single laminated billet.  Frequently
     these billets are then twisted or physically manipulated in some
     other manner and/or rewelded to other similar billets.  After this
     laminate steel has been formed into the final shape for which it
     had been destined, i.e. a knife, object d'art, etc. it is usually
     etched with some strong acid solution.  The etching process will
     affect the different alloys in different ways; some will etch deeper,
     producing a noticeable topography, and some will turn darker.  The
     effect is to produce a pattern in the steel of great contrast and
     beauty.

     A Damascus or pattern welded steel blade does not have to be any
     weaker than single alloy, and frequently it is as good if not better
     in all properties: edge holding, toughness, cutting ability,
     sharpenability.  It is usual practice to use a high carbon and a low
     carbon alloy as the constituents of a Damascus blade.  This unites
     the best of both worlds:  The high carbon steel grants the blade its
     cutting ability while the low carbon alloy adds to the toughness and
     shock resistance.  It is not necessary to use low carbon alloys at
     all.  Two high carbon steels with greatly differing trace element
     profiles can be welded to show patterns.  I have even read of 440C
     stainless being forge welded to tool steel -- this can't be an easy
     process though.  In addition, if the pattern in the blade is complex,
     and many of the laminations cross perpendicular to the edge of the
     blade, micro-serrations are formed which add to the cutting ability
     of a well-made Damascus blade.

     Wayne Goddard, a Master Bladesmith of the ABA and a colleague of
     Jim Hrisoulas (whose book I recommend for a much better treatise on 
     this subject than I have given here), has a continuing program of
     testing the properties and performance of forged blades.  He has
     tested hundreds of blades, and found that well made pattern welded
     blades cut and hold their edges just as well as single alloy blades.
     The Damascus blades are usually much tougher than all but the
     strongest (52100 or 5160) single alloy blades.

     In addition to _The Complete Bladesmith_, I heartily recommend
     "The Blade" magazine to anyone interested in the latest developments
     in Pattern welded steel and knifemaking in general.
     ---------------------------------
     Robert Allen, rja@sun.com, wrote:

     I've had the opportunity to discuss Damascus manufacturing with
     Jerry Fisk and John Smith, two makers who do excellent Damascus.
     Let's see if I can remember the basics:

     "Damascus" as used by most makers today means a layered material made
     from a mixture of high and low carbon steels.  Makers differ the mix
     according to their pet mixes.  A billet of alternating layers is forge
     welded, then folded and re-folded to the desired number of layers.  I've
     been told that more than 200-300 layers is counter-productive, as at
     that point you start to get too much carbon migration between the layers
     and you end up with a homogeneous medium carbon steel.  The point of
     Damascus, I've been told, is that the high carbon component gives up
     a bit of carbon to the low carbon component.  When the blade is hardened,
     the high carbon component gets fairly tough, which gives you good edge
     holding, and the low carbon component gets a little harder.  The point
     of all this is that damascus is supposed to have a "micro-serrated"
     edge, which lasts a long time.  The theory as I understand it is that
     the low carbon component wears faster than the high carbon component,
     giving you an "aggressive" edge that can't be beat.  The two Damascus
     blades I have seem to bear this out, beyond what merely varying the
     the grit on a sharpening stone would do.

     After forging a Damascus blade, it is etched in one of several acid
     mixtures, which causes the pattern caused by the layering to emerge.
     Typically damascus is then blued to bring out the contrast between
     the layers.  Damascus is often modified by forming to create specific 
     patterns in the steel.  Some makers have produced small American flags
     in the pattern.  Note that such patterns are produced strictly for
     the sake of art, not for performance.  Popular performance oriented
     patterns are ladder pattern (has ladder "rungs" the length of the blade),
     San Mai (various makers wrap a carbon steel layer between two damascus
     layers), random pattern, etc.  Some makers claim the different patterns
     offer different structural or cutting advantages.  The patterns are
     made by machining the billet or blade with the pattern, then re-heating
     and the material and hammering it flat, etc.  There is also cable Damascus
     which is forge welded cable.  Most makers I've spoken with told me their
     cable Damascus looked good, but wasn't as strong as the other Damascus.
     Cable Damascus has a unique reptile-scale type pattern.

     A good Damascus should OUT-perform straight carbon steel in most areas,
     but particularly in edge holding.  Some makers say their Damascus is
     not as springlike, and so the blades will not spring back as close to
     true as a carbon steel blade will, under a vise-bending test.  I've found
     that most famous makers are honest about their Damascus.  Tim (?) Winkler
     told me he makes Damascus strictly because it looks nice.  Wayne
     Valakovich (sp?) told me that his normal Damascus isn't as good as his
     carbon steel, but that his high-density Damascus is better.  Fisk and
     Smith both say their Damascus is better than their carbon steel in most
     regards, although it still is not as springlike as their high carbon
     blades.

     I've cut down small trees with a Fisk Damascus blade, with no apparent
     wear on the edge.  I have a Smith bowie which cuts through blue jeans
     with zero apparent effort.

     -------------------
     jschmidt@netcom.com suggests that knife blanks may be available from
     K & G Finishing Supplies, (602) 537-8877.  Also everything else you
     might need to finish a knife.

     Books that discuss Damascus steel, either historically or how-to:

      Custom Knifemaking
      10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
      Tim McCreight
      Stackpole Books 1985  ISBN 0-8117-2175-2
      7 1/4" x 9 1/4" 222 pg. paperbound  ($14.95, $20.50 in Ca. when I got it)
 
      A History of Metallography:
      The development of ideas on the structure of metals before 1890
      by Cyril Stanley Smith
      1960 -- The University of Chicago
      Library of Congress Catalog Number: 60-7243

      "DAMASCUS-USA" distributes a catalog.  It says on the cover
      "World leader in hand made forged-to-shape Damascus Cutlery Steel.
      More of our knives are in use world-wide than anyone else's."
      It looks like they mostly sell ready-made Damascus knives but there
      is a page where you can order Damascus Billets (Bar stock) in any
      size or pattern.  This apparently is a one-man operation, by
      Dr. Robert Charlton (919) 482 4992.

      Another source is "True Grit", 760 Francis street, Suite N,
      Ontario, California 91761.

      The book "The Complete Bladesmith" by Jim Hrisoulas has also
      been recommended.

26.  How do I repair/replace this old leather belt?

     A big problem with some lathes is that the drive belt, or
     one/some of the belts, are assembled with the lathe and are
     not meant to be replaced without disassembling the headstock.
     This is a task that is difficult at best.  Older South Bend
     and others use a flat leather belt, glued or stitched.  Newer
     lathes sometimes use a V-belt in the headstock to transfer
     power from one set of pulleys to a set of pulleys on the
     spindle.

     For V-belts, there is at least one linked replacement.
     Gates Rubber Company makes "Nu-T-Link" belting that can
     be cut to length, threaded into position, and joined with
     special T-pins.  The pins might get in the way, depending
     on the application, so be careful to check out clearances
     before you buy.  (ref: HSM Jan/Feb 1992 pg 6-7).  You might
     look in the yellow pages in your area for bearing/belting
     or other mechanical suppliers.

     Flat leather belts sometimes just start slipping well before
     they break.  One suggested fix was to apply "friction tape"
     to the pulleys, especially if they are polished.  It needs
     occasional replacement, but is cheap and easy.  Another fix
     is to apply some sort of belt dressing; one person suggested
     contacting New England Belting in Springfield MA.  They may
     also be able to supply a replacement.  Also try Hudson Belting
     in Worcester Massachussets at (508) 756-0090.  A non-leather
     replacement is called Texalon, made by J.E. Roads & Sons,
     2100 West 11th street, Wilmington DE 19899 (phone (302) 655-6513).
     It is sold through Hermance Machine Company, 178 Campbell Street,
     Williamsport PA 17701, phone (717) 326-9157, and possibly others.
     (ref: HSM March/April 1993, pg 8-9).  Texalon is cut to length,
     the ends prepared, and then glued.

     In March/April 1992 HSM (page 41) another replacement was mentioned,
     "Powertwist" made by Fenner Mannheim, 311 West Stiegel, Mannheim PA
     17545-1010.  This is made from interlocking segments, and may be
     available from bearing suppliers such as Industrial Bearing Company.

     At least for Logan lathes, there is the manufacturer:
          Logan Actuator Co.
          4956 N. Elston Ave
          Chicago, IL 60630
          (312) 736-7500, (312) 736-6854 (FAX)
     They may even have belts correctly sized for other brands such
     as South Bend.

     I have also heard of stitching a brass cabinet hinge onto a
     leather belt, then assembling in place (as long as the hinge
     pin can be secured from dropping out!).

     Also, per a post 5/17/94, try Page Belting in Concord, New Hampshire.

27.  Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill?

     Sometimes people want to use a drill press with an X/Y table attached
     as a cheap vertical mill.  Will this work?

     Generally, yes, but you should not do this.  The bearings in a drill
     press are not designed for side loads.  This may cause premature failure
     of the bearings, and may also cause significant sideways deflection
     and wandering (if you must do this, don't expect finish-quality cuts).
     If you extend the spindle down very far towards the work, the deflection
     could be quite severe.  Mill spindles are more stout than drill spindles.

     In some presses, the chuck is held in only by a taper.  Side pressure
     could cause the chuck to fall out.  Some milling tools are not designed
     to be held by a drill chuck, or if your spindle does have a taper, the
     taper will be wrong (mills usually use either a Morse or "R" taper
     while drills often use a Jacobs taper; check this out before buying
     any tools).

     An X/Y table often does not come with finely-marked dials, and may in
     fact be quite inaccurate.  For coarse cuts this may be OK.  Note too
     that a real mill will have controlled Z-axis feed, while on a drill
     press this too will be quite rough to control.

     As for how big a cut you can make, or how accurate your setup will be,
     there is no consensus.  You'll have to set it up and try it.  Considering
     the bearing/deflection problems, moderately light cuts would be
     recommended.

     Speculation:  use end mills, not fly cutters (or at least avoid fly
     cutters, or be careful).  Depending on the setup, a cutter may enter
     the work, then due to the deflection the cutter might be driven into
     the work farther, jam, and break itself or the work.  An end mill cuts
     more or less continuously and might not have the same problem.

     Paul Amaranth <amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu> volunteered his experience:
       ---
       I have only machined soft materials (copper, plexiglass and other
       plastics).  I would not recommend using anything but very light cuts
       (if at all) in anything harder.

       As you would expect, I had a number of problems.  Fine vertical depth
       adjustments are difficult.  I set the quill stop at the desired depth
       and held it in place by hand.  You could move the table up, but most
       drill presses seem to use a fairly coarse rack and pinion for the table.

       I used an endmill, which worked fairly well.

       Any backlash in your x/y table will get you into a load of trouble.
       This may not be too serious if you're facing off a surface, but will
       cause lots of problems if you want to make slots or cutouts with any
       precision.  Backlash may also cause chatter.

       In summary: this works if it's absolutely the only way you can do it,
       you don't need a lot of precision and you're working with soft
       materials.  I got around these limitations by buying a real mill.
       ---
     Alternatives:  If you have a lathe, consider buying/making a milling
     attachment, if your work size and lathe will allow.  Consider buying
     an inexpensive mill/drill machine if you can't quite afford a mill.

     In general, some of the same comments apply to buying a mill/drill or
     other combined unit as opposed to a dedicated machine for each purpose.
     Mill/drill machines are not as rigid for milling as a pure milling
     machine, but may be the only alternative before the money runs out.
     Combinations seem to work adequately for many woodworking applications
     but metalworking generally requires a lot more force.

28.  What is involved in building a steam engine?

     NOTE: see also the FAQ entry in rec.models.railroad on live steam
     railroad modeling.
     See also http://mindlink.net/Ron_Stewart/livsteam.html,
     http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/livestm.html, and
     http://edge.edge.net/~vrbass/steamfaq.htm.

     (with thanks to Tim Kirby and Ian Kirby (no relation))

     The creation of working steam engines, be they stationary engines, road
     engines, marine or rail locomotives, is quite a common hobby throughout
     the world.  Many people who would like to get involved in such modelling
     are, however, frequently at a loss as to how to start.  What follows is a
     set of simple pointers to get you on board.

     - Magazines and Journals

      There are four (English language) magazines that specifically deal with
      this subject.

        "Model Engineer" and "Engineering in Miniature" from the UK
        "Modeltec" and "Live Steam" from the USA
        (they may be available from a local worthwhile model store;
        alternatively, check the FAQ book list for the publishers)

      Reading any of these magazines will quickly give a feel for the hobby.

     - Clubs and Associations

      They are all over the world.  Look through the magazines listed above for
      club addresses; most if not all of them have the names and addresses of
      clubs all over the world.  If you can't find a club remotely near you,
      here are a couple of suggestions:

       Try posting a request on the net!  It can be a remarkable resource.
       Try writing to the editor of one of the magazines.

     - Scales and sizes

      Stationary engines are most often tabletop sizes; they can be very
      decorative and interesting exercises in machining but are not often
      "used" once built.

      Marine engines are often built as decorative or "stationary" models,
      however you may also find some installed in model boats.  Some of the
      suppliers in the magazines listed above may provide more information
      about marine engines.

      Road locomotives are usually referred to purely by scale, most often
      somewhere in the range of 3/4" scale (3/4 inch to the foot) to 4" scale
      (4":1'). A farm traction engine in 3/4" scale will probably be around 12"
      or 14" long - quite handleable by most people.  A 4" scale model is 1/3
      full size - big, heavy and arguably no longer "Model Engineering", at
      least with respect to the resources available to the average mortal.

      Rail locomotive scales can be a little more confusing because of a
      tendency to refer to them by the rail gauge that they run on.
      Unfortunately the gauges are not completely standardized for some scales
      (although one might expect that they would be). The following table lists
      the most common "larger scales" and the gauge lines they run on (based on
      a nominal 4' 8.5" so-called standard (USA) gauge track):
 
      3/4" scale (0.75":1') =   3.5" gauge
      1" scale   (1.00":1') =   4.75" or 5" gauge
      1.5" scale (1.50":1') =   7.25" or 7.5" gauge

      There are 10.25" and 15" lines as well as smaller (2.5" gauge, Gauge 1)
      that are modelled in live steam.  Availability of land, track and
      facilities will often affect a builders choice of scale.  Note that the
      modelling of narrow or broad gauge models introduces another confusion
      factor - a 1.5":1' scale model of a prototype that ran on 3'6" gauge
      track in real life would result in a track gauge of 5.25".  This would
      commonly be adjusted to fit on a 5" or 4.75" gauge line.

     - It must cost a fortune and take forever

      Not necessarily.  There are many suppliers in this hobby who can provide
      as much or as little as you need, from a set of original blueprints for a
      prototype, through those who can provide scaled drawings of proven
      models, books giving detailed operation-by-operation procedures on how
      to create a model, sets of castings that need machining or even ready
      machined kits that can be assembled on a kitchen table... or they will
      sell you a complete, ready-to-run model.

      The amount of money spent will vary typically as a function of how big
      the model will be, how much work the builder does (as opposed to buying
      ready-built parts) and what resources the builder has in his/her 
      workshop.

      Needless to say, the amount of time spent building such a model will be a
      function of the same things.  As a rule of thumb, the more you do
      yourself, the cheaper it is and the longer it will take you.

      Reading the classified advertisements in the magazines listed you may be
      able to pick up a part-complete or secondhand model for less than the
      cost of the parts new (though you are at the mercy of the workmanship of
      the builder.  Let the buyer beware).

     - What about boilers?

      The subject of boilers is complex; each country has its own rules and
      regulations - which could never be justly covered here.  Some pointers,
      though:

      + If you build a 'published plan', there is probably a published boiler
        plan to go with it.  This usually means it is a proven design, which
        is *good*.

      + Steam clubs will have some sort of regular boiler inspection and test
        requirement.  Talk to the appointed boiler inspector at your club.

      + If you are in the slightest bit wary or unhappy about building a
        boiler, *get some help from someone who knows what they are doing*.
        Some companies will sell you "standard" boilers for published designs
        ready made; there are others who specialize in building custom boilers.

        You may be able to lower the cost by doing all the preparation work and
        getting someone else to (braze/weld/whatever) the bits together.

      + Remember... this is a pressure vessel full of very hot water and steam.
        You *really* do not want it to fail.  You will probably be closest to
        the boiler if it does...

     - What's a good book on the subject?

      There are many, many books available on this and associated subjects;
      some are general texts, some specialize in particular aspects.  A good
      place to start is (unsurprisingly) read through a couple of issues of
      the magazines mentioned; most of the publishers (Village Press, TEE,
      Argus/Nexus) publish and/or sell a number of texts; writing to the
      publishers should elicit a list of currently available books.  Also try
      some of the suppliers catalogs found in the magazines; A.J. Reeves Ltd.,
      Power Model Supply and Coles Power models all carry books on general
      topics and specialist areas such as boilers, valve gear etc.

     - Do you have any other advice?

      Reading the magazines is all well and good, but try to find someone to
      talk to who has had some experience - this can not only save lots of
      frustration but can also lead to lots of very useful shortcuts and even
      material help.  It may mean finding and joining a club, which, if one is
      considering building a rail vehicle, at least means that there will be
      somewhere to run it when completed, without then having to build a track
      too!

      The first-time builder is strongly recommended to consider choosing a
      published *model* design (from one of the magazines or plan suppliers)
      where all the scaling is done, and the finished article will work if
      built according to the plans.  Converting full size prototype drawings
      to a working scale model is not recommended for the "normal" first-timer!
      As you might expect, the published plans cover some models suitable for
      the beginner and others best attempted by an experienced builder.  Again,
      we cannot recommend strongly enough getting advice from a club of some
      sort if you can find one.

      Ask the supplier if the design was ever serialized in any of the
      magazines and if the text is available, either as copies, back issues or
      as a published book - blow-by-blow instructions can be very reassuring,
      even if you know what you are doing in a machine shop.

      Choose wisely, so that interest is maintained.  In particular with rail
      models, you need some rail to run it on.  Unless you are fortunate enough
      to have plenty of land and money, you will probably want to run on a club
      track - find out what your local club has before you build or you may
      spend several years creating a beautiful working model with nowhere to
      run it.  If there are several gauges available at your track of choice,
      consider carefully which track you want to be able to run on.

29.   How do I anodize aluminum?

      (pieced together from various sources, including the newsgroup.  JK)
      (note, there is also an explanation of anodizing, and aluminum in
      general, at http://www.bikepro.com/products/metals/alum.html)

      First, this is only meant to apply to aluminum.  Other metals, such
      as titanium, niobium, and possibly magnesium and others, can also
      be anodized.

      Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, and rapidly forms an aluminum oxide
      coating that inhibits further oxidization.  This coating is useless
      as is, in terms of protecting the metal, because it is so thin.  A
      thicker coating can be produced by immersing the part in an
      electrolytic solution and passing an electrical current through it,
      similar to electroplating.  The resulting film is nearly colorless,
      and can be easily dyed because it is very porous at the molecular
      level.  Then, by placing the part in boiling water, the film's
      pores can be sealed; the oxide changes from one form to another
      as a result.

      To be more specific, parts should be very clean and grease-free.
      Commercial plants will first clean and etch the surface in a caustic
      solution, such as lye (sodium hydroxide), followed by a thorough
      wash.  The parts are placed in an acid solution, such as 15-25%
      sulphuric acid, and connected to the positive source of a power
      supply (use only aluminum hardware to make the connection; no
      copper in the solution!).  The part(s) comprise the anode, and the
      cathode is lead (lead sheet, or the whole tank might be lead).
      Appropriate current is applied, e.g. 1.5 amps per decimeter (3.4
      square inches).  This lasts 15-25 minutes if no dying is planned,
      or 45-60 minutes for dying.

      Dying is the next step, if desired.  Since the pores are extremely
      small, many common dyes will not work.  Some wool dyes are known
      to work, or you can purchase commercial anodizing dyes from an
      industrial supplier.  Typically this involves immersion in the
      dye solution, which may have to be heated to be effective.
      (Steve Rayner reports that telescope builders like a black
      anodizing dye called Nigrosin Biological Stain, which is water
      soluble and mixed 1 teaspoon full to a quart of water;  his
      bottle is labeled Aldrich 19,828-5 and cost around $35.00 Canadian,
      for 25 grams).

      Sealing is then done by putting the part in boiling water, which
      changes the film from gamma aluminum oxide a hydrated form
      called boehmite.  Boil for about 20 minutes.

      Another anodizing process involves using chromic acid.  This is
      not suitable for alloys with more than 5% copper.  The film is
      thinner, but very durable.  The very thin film is also a benefit
      when very close tolerances must be maintained.  However, because
      chromic acid is a very nasty chemical, its use on an amateur
      basis is discouraged, and its commercial use may be closely regulated.

      Anodizing is sensitive to the type of alloy.  For example, alloys
      for die casting have a lot of silicon, which makes it pour and
      mold well, but it makes anodizing almost impossible.

      By all means, find a few references and read them carefully before
      attempting anodization.  If at all possible, try it out on scrap
      pieces before attempting it on your masterpiece.  Be sure to flush
      the part completely to remove remaining acid.
 
      An alternative is to use a commercial firm to do the anodizing.
      Some net folks report they can be a bit rough to deal with, as
      they may be more used to dealing with large jobs and may not
      appreciate a home machinist with a single 5-inch part.  Look
      in the phone book under anodizing, plating, or electroplating.

      Some have reported using a lye solution to treat the surface,
      which yields a fairly uniform fuzzy surface, that may be
      acceptable as a final surface without further treatment.  Don't
      use a strong solution or the aluminum will disappear too fast;
      do this in a well ventilated area, as hydrogen gas is emitted,
      stay away from flames/sparks, and remember that lye will eat
      people as well as aluminum!  The resulting surface can be dyed,
      or painted with a chromate primer.  (One tablespoon of lye per
      pint of water has been suggested).

      Another alternative is a product called Aluminum Black from
      Birchwood Casey, which is often advertised in model railroading
      magazines, and may also be available via gun stores (it is in the
      Brownells catalog).  Brownells also lists a nickel plating
      solution for aluminum, though it appears non-trivial to use.

      See also the ArtMetal WWW pages at 
      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html
      for information on anodizing for artists (more specifically,
      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/TOC/finishes/anodize.html)

      References:

          Aluminum (Volume 3):  Fabrication and Finishing
          Kent Van Horn, Editor
          American Society for Metals, 1967
          Library of Congress #66-16222
          813 pages

          Electroplating for the Amateur, by L. Warburton.
          Model & Allied Publications.
          Available via Argus.

          The Surface Treatment and Finishing of Aluminum and its Alloys,
          Edited by S. Wernick, R. Pinner, and P.G. Sheasby.  Published
          1987 by ASM International, Metals Park, Ohio.  2 volumes.

          ARTISTS ANODIZING ALUMINUM- the sulphuric acid process,
          by David LaPlantz.  ISBN: 0-942002-03-2, apparently published by
          Press de LaPlantz Inc.
          Box 220 Bayside, CA USA 95524;  It's about $20 US.
          The book is extremely thorough and contains several methods of
          anodizing with lots of pictures and references.
          It is intended for small individual pieces, at home
          in the garage or basement.

          Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory.
          Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc.
          One University Plaza,
          Hackensack, NJ 07601

          Anodizing Aluminum, by Harold Hoffman.
          Available from H & H Publihing, 7174 Hoffman Road, San Angelo, Texas,
          USA 76905, or Centaur Forge.
          This book seems fairly complete, with supplier sources.

          Anodizing Aluminum in the Amateur Workshop, Ham Radio
          Magazine, January 1979, pages 62-69, by David W. Hembling.
          Sadly, this magazine is out of business, but should be in
          larger libraries, or available via inter-library loan.
          This article lists several other references, including
          addresses for dye makers.

          Passivating Aluminum Alloys, in 73 Magazine, September
          1965, pages 74-80, by Robert A. Kidder.

          Some jewelry-making suppliers deal with anodizing.

          The magazines Strictly IC and Model Engineer allegedly
          have discussed this, but I don't have exact references.

          Argus Workshop Practice Series, number 11, by J Poyner.

          Sandoz Chemicals Corp (now apparently Clarion Corp) supplies
          dyes for aluminum anodizing.  Their phone number is (704) 331-7000.

          Kepro in Fenton, MO sells black aluminum anodizing dye for their
          aluminum anodized nameplate kit.  They sell it in small quantities.
          The phone number is (800) 325-3878 or (314) 343-1630.

          How to Anodize Aluminum, Popular Science February 1963,
          pages 144-146.

      ADDENDUM:  On May 16, 1996, Patrick M. Riggs (pmr0811@tamu.edu)
      posted this nice description of how *he* anodizes aluminum, and
      copper as well.  JK

         A long time ago, I came to this newsgroup asking for answers on how to
         anodize aluminum, and nobody really had advice.  Since then, of course,
         I've seen lots of suggestions.  In any case, at that point I promised
         to post if I had any results, and never posted except to mention my 
         success.  Well, while there are probably better methods out there, this
         is what worked for me, and has continued to work for me.  I hope this
         is helpful.  BTW, it has been a while, and Sandoz chemical is now
         called  Clarion corp.  Their proprietary anodal ms-1 is basically a
         weak nickel acetate solution.  As to where to get sulphuric acid, I
         wouldn't know, since I work at a university where such things are
         readily available.

         I hope this helps, and thanks to those who gave me advice along the
         way.

         Oh yeah, and be careful . . . sulphuric acid is dangerous (I have "bad 
         lab practice" reminders in more than one pair of shorts -- not that I 
         recommend wearing shorts in the lab . . .) and eats an awful lot of 
         otherwise sturdy materials.  Also, beware of the high currents.  I, of 
         course, take no responsibility for anything (and that seems to be my 
         problem in general).

         Hard anodizing:

         Sulfuric acid at 13% by volume, at a temperature of 3 degrees C.  Note 
         that the temperature is not overly important, so long as it is close.
         The current density should be ~15 amps/square foot.  The aluminum
         piece should stay in the bath for at least 2 hours, with four hours
         being optimum.

         As an alternative to hard anodization, leave all conditions the same 
         except for the temperature, which should be 70-75 degrees C.  The 
         difference in the two procedures is the thickness and quality of the 
         anodic layer.  Hard anodization leave the material more absorptive.

         The cathode, or negative lead, should be lead, with the anode to cathode 
         proportion being about 1:1.

         For dyeing the object, there are two options:

         Rit dye:

         Rit is a standard wool dye, which can be purchased at any grocery
         store.  This method is both inexpensive and offers a wide variety of
         colors.  The drawbacks are that Rit, an organic dye, is not light
         fast, and will fade in direct sunlight.

         With Rit, simply prepare a bath of about 50ml/litre at about 70
         degrees celsius.  One hour minimum is required, with the preferable
         duration matching the anodization time.


         Black MLW:

         Black MLW can be purchased from Sandoz Chemical (my contact was Ron 
         Rupple (214) 423-1674, the sales rep for texas.  The company is based
         at (704) 331-7000.)  The price is between $15/lb and $60/lb (don't
         have an exact quote, but this is the range of prices for all of their
         black dyes).  Small test quantities can be obtained.

         Black MLW is favorable because it is a) light fast in the visible
         (being inorganic), and b) a rather flat black.  It's drawbacks are
         expense (a minimum order is 5 lbs, which is an awful lot of dye), and
         requires special working procedures (the dust is hazardous to the
         lungs).

         Black MLW is, however, simpler, and more convenient, to use.  The 
         temperature should be between 51 and 60 degrees C.  The duration being 
         5-10 minutes depending on quality of blackness desired.  The 
         concentration (keep this in mind before ordering 5+ pounds) is 10 
         grams/litre.

         Sealing:

         The sealing process hydrates the porous anodic layer, closing it, 
         protecting it, and sealing in the dye.  For most applications, sealing 
         is desirable.

         Supposedly, this process can be done with boiling water, but I've only 
         managed the following.

         1)  Simply leave the piece in the dye bath, and boil the dye bath for
         one hour.  This will require removal of the excess dye afterwards and
         is not generally recommended.

         2) 2% anodal MS-1 (again from sandoz chemical (though, nickel acetate 
         should work as a substitute).  The temperature of the bath should be 
         between 70 and 87 degrees C, with a duration of 5-20 minutes
         (depending on porosity and thickness of coating . . . longer never
         hurts).

         Note that after each step, the object should be rinsed with deionized 
         water to avoid contamination.  I did this all with distilled water, 
         though deionized water should still work.

         Important information about the piece.  The purity of the aluminum is 
         important.  The higher the silicon content, the less likely the
         process is too work.  Also, the product should be newly machined (for
         a shinier, more professional finish) or sandblasted (for a flatter,
         though less even, finish).  All oil, dirt, glass beads, etc, must be
         removed prior to the anodization process.  This can be done by
         thorough cleaning with acetone and methonal (soap is dangerous, since
         phosphates in the solution tend to negate the anodization process).
         For better cleaning, immerse the part in 1 tsp/200 litres NaOH (be
         careful).  For small parts this is undesirable, since the NaOH
         actually removes aluminum.  After this bath, a smutty brown finish is
         obtained.  To remove, rinse the part, and soak in a 10% nitric acid
         solution until a satin finish is obtained.

         Copper anodization:

         While aluminum anodization is typically clear (depending on the alloy
         and the process used (there are various other processes using
         different acids, the most common being chromic and oxalic), copper,
         at least via this process, anodizes black.

         The desired voltage is 6 volts across the circuit.  The bath should be 
         120 grams/ litre of NaOH.  The temperature MUST be between 82 and 99 
         degrees C or the process will not even begin.  The duration of the 
         anodization process is 30 seconds to 3 minutes, depending again on the 
         quality of black desired . . . more time, flatter black.  The cathode
         is Steel in a 1:1 ratio.  Again the piece must be dirt/ grease free.

         This process will also work for brass, though it is shinier.  Also, 
         different colors may appear under the black, depending on the brass.

         For both of these metals, remember that they oxidize quickly in air 
         (which is not the same as the anodized layer . . . though in aluminum, 
         this layer is also protective).  Therefore, they should be anodized as 
         soon as possible after machining and preparing.


      ADDENDUM:  On August 12, 1995, Jerry Kimberlin (kimberln@crl.com)
      posted the following on blackening aluminum.  In this case it is
      not an anodizing finish, but this seemed to best place to stick
      the information!  JK

        There have been several postings about blackening aluminum recently.
        I  wrote an article for *Live Steam* magazine back about 1977 on the
        subject and have modified it a little since then.  I do use it myself
        and thought that it would be of interest to the newsgroup.  So:

                                BLACKENING ALUMINUM
                                         by
                                  JEROME KIMBERLIN

              There are several ways to color aluminum black and among them
         are black anodizing and paint.  You could rub dirt into the
         aluminum surface, I suppose, but of all the methods, I think
         chemical coloring is the superior method.  It is certainly
         cheaper, faster, and home use allows the model engineer greater
         flexibility in the timing of his decoration of models in progress.
              Surface preparation of parts to be colored black is all
         important as any irregularities are not covered by this finish.
         Paint does build up and fill in scratches and other voids.
         Castings, however, should look like castings if the prototype used
         castings, so surface finish is always adjustable to the builders
         idea.  The point here is to emphasize that this blackening
         technique will not cover up mistakes.
              You will need three chemicals.  These are: Nitric Acid,
         Copper Nitrate, and Potassium Permanganate.  You will also need
         some good quality water - either distilled or deionized.  I will
         give the dimensions of the mixture in both metric and English
         units so that both types of measures are accommodated:
              Take:    water         3 quarts          750ml
              Add      Acid          1/2 oz              5ml
              Add      Copper        3 oz               25gm
              Add      Permanganate  1 oz               10gm
              Add      Water to make 1 gal              1 liter

              Obviously you will have to make up more or less solution to
         fill the container you will use to color aluminum parts and the
         parts to be colored should be completely covered by the solution.
         You should use a glass or plastic container.  A metal container
         will poison the solution prematurely.
              At 75 degrees F (24 C) temperature, the blackening process
         will take about 15 minutes using a fresh solution.  If it takes
         longer it means the solution is deficient in one of the components.
         Usually, copper nitrate and nitric acid need be added.
              Aluminum is a strange metal to most of us.  While we cannot
         see it, the surface of a newly machined or cleaned piece of
         aluminum combines with oxygen in the air to form a self protecting
         coating of aluminum oxide.  This happens within minutes.  If this
         surface continues to grow (get thicker) the blackening solution
         described here will not work satisfactorily.  Thus, the piece to
         be colored should be cleaned just before immersing into the
         coloring solution.  In my experience, glass bead blasting is a
         superior way to clean the aluminum surface and the choice of bead
         size determines surface finish.  Once the bead blasting has been
         accomplished, the beads can be washed off with hot water and the
         aluminum piece immersed in the blackening solution.  I recommend
         that the time between blasting (cleaning) and immersion in the
         blackening solution be less than two hours.  I once waited five
         hours and was disappointed in the results.  Once the blackening
         process has been completed, wash off the workpiece with tap water,
         drain and spray with WD-40 or other water displacing oil.

              There are a number of ways to clean aluminum satisfactorily.
         It is possible to simply sand the surface clean, or scrub it clean
         with an abrasive.  One can also chem clean aluminum by degreasing
         the workpiece then dipping it into lye (Draino, for instance) for
         a few minutes or seconds as required, then rinsing.  The shape of
         the workpiece and the model engineer's facilities often dictate
         what method of surface preparation will be used.
              Model engineers wishing to use this solution to blacken
         aluminum castings or other parts should be aware that the chemical
         components may be hazardous.  While the solution itself is not
         particularly dangerous it can make your hands purple, so use
         rubber or plastic gloves.  Potassium Permanganate is classified as
         an oxidizer even though dilute solutions of it are used throughout
         the world to sterilize vegetables used in salads, etc.  Concentrated
         nitric acid is just plain bad.  The technique for using it is
         to pour out a little in a glass container and then use an eye
         dropper to transfer the liquid to a measuring container when the
         volume wanted is small, such as that described here.  Nitric acid
         also turns your hands yellow, hurts, and removes fingerprints.  A
         good way to avoid eye damage is to wear a face shield such as the
         one you should be wearing when working in front of your grinder.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:08 EDT 1996
Article: 32174 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 6 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101611.24431@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:11 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 6
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:11 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 510

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 6 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

30.   Rust!  How do I deal with rust?

     Some machinists live in areas where rust prevention is important, such
     as those in humid areas.  There are various steps to reduce the problem,
     and sometimes several steps need to be taken simultaneously.  Here are
     some ideas from previous posts on the topic:

     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> wrote, on 2 Jun 94:

     I have a lot of expensive tools/toys that I have a LOT of trouble keeping
     from rusting.  Over the years, I have tried many different tricks and 
     products, and I've summarized my results below.
 
     The paper is called VPI Paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor), and it's available
     from Brownell's (address in FAQ), as are raw crystals.  You want to make 
     sure that the 'dusty' side of the paper faces the tool, and don't be 
     surprised if some plastics (vinyl tool pouches) end up with a funny white 
     surface.  It doesn't seem to hurt the plastic, but it's disconcerting
     until you get used to it.  The tools will stay rust free much longer if
     they are sealed in a tight box, or a zip lock bag.  In theory, you should
     replace the paper annually if it's exposed to the air on a semi-regular
     basis.

     There is also another similar product called Zrust.  This comes in a
     number of forms, typically plastic 'cartridges' and flat plastic squares.
     They are also available from Brownells, but if you think you are going to
     be using a lot of this stuff, you're better off locating a dealer and
     buying direct.  The cartridges can handle an entire tool box or cabinet,
     and the little squares are good for smaller containers.  Once again, the
     tools should be stored in some sort of container.  The more airtight it
     is, the less frequently you will need to replace the rust-inhibitor.

     A company called Hydrosorbent sells silica gel desiccant in several 
     convenient sizes.  The nice thing about these is that they have an 
     indicator to tell when they're saturated, and you can 'recharge' them in 
     the oven.  I use the small aluminum packs for some of my tools, and
     all of my target pistols.  There is a new company that makes the same
     sort of thing in a plastic case that you can recharge in the microwave.
     If anyone knows where to get these, I'd love to find out.

     I also use a dehumidifier in my basement.  I live near Boston, and in the
     summer when my basement is still cool, the relative humidity goes through
     the roof.  I have a 25' x 30' basement, and a 25 pint capacity
     dehumidifier can keep the RH down to around 50% without running
     continuously.  It's best if you have a drain, so you don't have to
     remember to empty the bucket all the time.  Mine costs me about $20/month
     in electricity for 3-4 months each year.  If you go looking for a
     dehumidifier, get one that has a freeze-up cutout, and a hose connection
     on the machine, not the tank.  This saves a lot of space, and gets the
     water source up higher for easy draining.  As it is, I have mine up on top
     of a small set of shelves so that it will drain into the laundry sink.
     Check Consumer Reports for the most efficient model you can get,  it will
     pay for itself in electricity in short order.

     Brownells also used to sell 'Gunsmith's Soap', which was supposed to 
     neutralize the pH of your skin before handling things.  They discontinued
     this before I could get a chance to try it, but I have found that washing
     your hands to remove salts from perspiration can help.  If anyone knows
     a source for 'Gunsmiths Soap', I'd love to try some.

     The one last trick I use when I'm handling something I don't want to rust
     (like when I'm disassembling a target pistol) is to wear cotton
     "inspection gloves" that have been lightly sprayed with a thin rust
     preventative oil.  This simultaneously prevents me from etching things
     with my corrosive perspiration, and lightly coats everything I touch with
     oil.  If you are concerned about what the oil does to your skin, you can
     wear latex gloves underneath the cotton.  It doesn't work well for really
     delicate work, and you have to be careful not to let anything slip
     through your fingers.

     There are several spray treatments that work well for storage.  My current
     favorite was developed by Boeing, and is called BoeShield T-9.  It's 
     available from many marine supply houses.  After the carrier evaporates, 
     it leaves a thin surface film that does an excellent job of protecting
     steel from corrosion.
     ==================================
     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> followed up on the above,
     on Fri, 3 Jun 1994, with these addresses:

     Hydosorbent Co.
     Box 437
     Ashley Falls, MA  01222
     (413) 229-2967

     Sells Silica Gel descant packages in the following sizes:
     750 gram aluminum canister, 6"H x 4"D, protects 57 cubic ft., $24
     360 gram carton, 2" x 4" x 5", protects 27 cubic ft., $10.75
     40 gram aluminum box, 4" x 2" x 1/2", protects 3 cubic ft., $5.95
     26 gram packets, 2 12" x 4", protects 2 cubic ft., $12.00/10

     All but the packets are re-chargeable in an oven.  Post-paid, but
     $2.00 shipping charge.  They take MC/VISA

     Northern Instruments Corp.
     Lake Industrial Park
     6680 N. Hwy. 49
     Lino Lakes, MN  55014
     (612) 784-1250

     These folks sell a variety of VPI products.  The two most useful ones
     are their Zerust Vapor Capsules and Plastabs.  The capsules are plastic
     and have and adhesive strip to stick them into tool chests, machine tool
     cabinets etc.  The Plastabs are small squares cut from a 1/16" yellow
     sheet.

     The capsules come in several sizes, and are rated by radius of
     protection, and lifetime:

     VC-1-1, 1' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-1, 2' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-2, 2' protection radius for 2 years
     VC-6-2, 6' protection radius for 2 years

     The only ones I have a price on is the VC-2-1, which were $5 each.  The
     protection life varies with the degree to which the container is sealed.
     The capsules have a label to mark when they were installed so you know
     when to replace them.  Considering the cost, you may be better off with
     the silica gel canisters.  They will need recharging more often, but have
     an indicator.

     I couldn't find any detailed literature on the Plastabs, but I bought a
     sack with over 500 1/2" squares for $60.  They are much easier to use
     than VPI paper for small tools and parts.  I just toss one or two into
     a zip lock bag of small tool case.  These are sold in the 3/4" size by
     Brownells as 'Rust-Blox' (see below), where they claim they are good 
     for 300 cubic inches.  Brownells wants $27.20 for 100, which is a good
     bit more expensive than buying them in bulk from the Zerust people.
     You'll need to call them to find a local distributor.  The shelf life 
     is probably limited, even well sealed in a plastic bag, so if you don't
     need a lot, Brownells may still be cheaper.

     Brownells Inc.
     200 S. Street
     Montezuma, IA  50171-9989
     (516) 623-5401

     This is a gunsmith supply house, and sells a lot of good tools and other
     gadgets that even non-gunsmiths can use.  They have an extensive range
     of rust preventing supplies.  They sell the Hydrosorbent canisters for
     slightly less than Hydrosorbent does, and they carry the VPI tablets in
     small (but more expensive) quantities than N. Instruments.  They also
     sell VPI paper and Cosmoline (THE original GI rust preventative grease).
     The paper comes in 12" sq sheets, and can protect 1 cubic ft. for 2 years
     MINIMUM.  Typically, it lasts much longer.  They carry half a dozen
     varieties of aerosol rust preventatives, greases etc.

     Stock #

     415-100-040   40 gram silica gel cartridge             $5.50
     415-100-360   360 gram silica gel carton	            $9.95
     415-100-750   750 gram silica gel canister	           $22.50
     084-058-050   50 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                 $15.70
     084-058-100   100 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                $27.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 10 sheets, 12" x 12"          $4.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 50 sheets, 12" x 12"         $14.88

     I think that exhausts everything I know about rust prevention.  I've
     been fighting the battle ever since I moved from New Mexico 24 years
     ago, and I hope this can save someone some trouble.

     Doug White
     MIT Lincoln Laboratory

     =====================================================

     If the parts are small enough for that treatment then you can use
     "Blue Bags".  They are made by Bianchi ostensibly to store handguns in,
     but I find that any rustable metal parts are protected by them. They
     have zip lock style tops and come in several sizes.  I believe they also
     sell some in rifle sizes but without the zip lock closure.

     =====================================================

     For rust removal, the most common suggestion was Naval Jelly by Duro,
     available at many hardware stores.  It contains dilute phosphoric
     acid as its main ingredient.  Be prepared to apply a proper preventive
     after removal, as the metal will be left in a vulnerable condition.

31.   Are there any machinery museums?

      There are several museums that deal in some way with metalworking.
      Basically, if it has something to do with big machinery or manufacturing,
      it's a candidate for this list.  This includes transportation museums
      because they often have interesting machinery like locomotives.

      This list is organized by geographic areas.

      U.S.A.

      Maine

      Owls Head Transportation Museum, just South of Rockland,
      Maine (about midway up the Maine coast).  Many airplanes, but
      also bicycles, static and cutaway aircraft engines, automobiles,
      and early steam and gasoline engines.  In summertime they do
      car shows and regular weekend flying shows, and run some of the
      other equipment such as a Buffalo Springfield steam roller and
      a one-cylinder Mogul tractor.  Occasionally have auctions of
      engines, model and full-size, and other mechanical stuff;  these
      are consignment auctions that benefit the museum, not "overstock"
      of the museum itself.  Phone (207) 594-4418.

      Pennsylvania

      Coolspring Power Museum,
      Box 19,
      Coolspring PA 15730.
      Phone (814) 849-6883.
      This is a museum mostly of turn-of-the-century engines, many operable.
      The museum is in western Pennsylvania on route 36 about midway between
      Punxsutawney and Brooksville.  For the past 10 years they sponsor a
      show with many collectors showing their engines.  In 1995 this is
      scheduled for June 16-18.

      Vermont

      American Precision Museum,
      P.O. Box 679,
      Windsor, VT 05089,
      (802) 674-5781.
      http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Precision_Museum/
      On display are mostly metalworking tools which date from the early 1800s
      up through some of the first numerically controlled machines.  In
      addition there is some woodworking equipment.  The museum is located
      just off U.S. route 5 or South Main St. in Windsor, Vermont and from
      May 20 to November 1 it is open 9 to 5 on weekdays and 10 to 4 on
      Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

      DC (Discrict of Columbia)

      The Smithsonian Museums, Washington DC.

      Massachusetts

      Boston Computer Museum.  Lots of computers of course, if you are
      interested.  They also have a mechanical "computer" that plays
      tic-tac-toe made from tinkertoys and string.  Also a robotics
      display which should be enjoyed by metalworkers.

      Cambridge: the Science Museum has several mechanical
      displays and a full machine shop in the basement.
      Future: In Greenfield, Massachussets, they are trying to put
      together a cutting tool museum.  As of this writing (6/15/94)
      they are still trying to find a place to house it, so it may
      be mid-1995 or so before it opens.  May have early steam/gasoline
      engines when open.  (8/26/94: plans are to put it in the old
      Greenfield Tap and Die plant).

      Around central Massachussets, there is also the Springfield
      Armoury, LS Starrett, Old Sturbridge Village (a colonial
      "theme" village), Charles River Museum of Industry (154 Moody Street,
      Waltham, MA 02154  tele (617) 893-5410), a textile museum in Lowell
      with machinery and lots of displays of cloth, and the American Precision
      Museum (mentioned earlier); all within an hour and a half of Greenfield.

      The L.S. Starrett Co. Crescent Street, Athol, Massachusetts 01331 USA.
      (Contact person is Joel Shaughnessy in the Personnel Office in
      Building 7, open 8-12 AM  and 1-5 PM  tele: (508) 249-3551 x 295,
      and it is suggested to phone ahead for a guided tour reservation).
      The museum is opened by tour only and the guide will spend time with
      interested visitors.  Factory tours of two hours duration are also
      possible.

      Nantucket Island (off Massachusetts) has a 1740 windmill grinding corn
      (maze) when there is enough wind and it's wooden works are a fine
      example of the tech of the time... they also have machinery for
      manufacture of candles from whale oil in the Whaling museum there.

      At Saugus (North of Boston), the iron works is a fine example of
      a 1650  iron works right down to a  replica of one of only 8
      rolling and slitting mills that existed in the world at that time.

      Another trolley museum is forming now in Shelburne Falls,
      about 10 miles west of Greenfield, which will restore the original
      trolley car which served that town and may have a small workshop/carbarn
      by 1995/1996(?).  (That is c/o Shelburne Chamber of Commerce.)

      Rhode Island

      Old Slater Cotton Mill in Pawtucket.  Machine shop
      with vintage machinery, much in running condition.

      Tennessee

      National Ornamental Metal Museum, Memphis TN.  (901) 744-6380

      Dixie Gun Works, in Union City.  They demo how gun barrels
      were forged around the time of the American Civil War.  Lots of
      machinery, automobiles, nostalgic junk, photos, and of course guns.

      New Mexico

      Los Alamos National Lab (New Mexico) has a museum, including things
      like the Beryllium-Copper tools used in early atomic bomb work.

      Michigan

      Henry Ford Museum, and/or Greenfield Village (adjacent to the
      museum), near Dearborn/Detroit Michigan.  Very large, described as a
      paradise for mechanical engineering nuts.  The museum is 12 acres,
      and the village is 93 acres.  One day is inadequate for a full visit!
      Old cars, steam engines, restored 1880s factories, Thomas Edison's
      workshop (Henry Ford had Edison's "old" workshop/lab in Menlo Park,
      New Jersey, disassembled and moved to Michigan; Edison's newer lab
      is in West Orange, New Jersey) and Henry Ford's workshop.

      New Jersey

      Thomas Edison's lab is in West Orange, New Jersey (not Menlo Park).
      It is officially the Edison National Historical Site and run by
      the National Park Service.  What is there is the remnant of a factory
      complex that employed some 10,000 people at its peak, before WWI.
      The factory is gone, but there is a sizable two-story brick building,
      the lab, and several smaller buildings.  The whole facility has
      been preserved since Edison's death in the 1930s.  The lab contains
      a large machine shop, still set up as it would have been back then.
      It's called the "heavy machine shop", and it has the larger planers,
      lathes, and other machines.  All driven from line shafts, which were
      actuated by large electric motors (of course!).  There is, or had
      been, a second shop (the "precision shop") on the second floor.
      Access is only by tour.  The takes 35 minutes, stops for 3
      minutes to look at the roped-off heavy machine shop (there's also a
      chem lab, a library, and some other stuff).  The precision shop
      is off limits.  The level of detail is geared to the interest of the
      general public, and don't confuse the schoolchildren.
      It's at Main Street and Lakeside Avenue, in West Orange.

      Connecticut

      Lock Museum of America, Inc.  
      P. O. Box 104
      Terryville, CT 06786-0104
      phone  (203) 589-6359, (203) 589-6359 (FAX)
      I don't have any information on this other than the above;
      not even a street address!  May only be open on weekends.

      Connecticut Electric Railway Museum at Warehouse Point (2 miles from
      I-91, about 20 miles north of Hartford) has a repair shop with the
      usual machine shop tools for its fine collection of trolley cars.

      Ohio

      The museum of the early industrial revolution is located in
      Coalbrookdale (AKA Iron Bridge Gorge), has a lot of early steam
      engines -- walking beam, etc.  The last working producer of wrought
      iron in England donated the complete factory when they went out of
      business.

      Future: the National Inventors' Hall of Fame due to open in 1995
      in Akron... the PR says that it will allow "Visitors to tinker
      with wind tunnels, lathes, molds and other engines of creation".

      Colorado

      Colorado Springs:  just north is an excellent museum
      dealing with hard rock mining, including working examples of
      machinery.  The Museum of Western Mining is just off I-25 at
      exit 156 (North gate of the Air Force academy).  Colorado Springs
      is about 60 miles south of Denver.  They even have blacksmithing
      classes.

      Denver has one of the US Mints, where they stamp out coins
      (not printed money).  Tours; kind of boring, but it doesn't
      take too long.

      Denver also has the Forney Transportation Museum, which I think
      is a real dump *except* they have a  Big Boy locomotive on display
      you can walk right up to and look over (world's largest steam
      locomotive).

      East of Denver is the Georgetown Loop, a small historical
      railroad that also has a hardrock mine tour.

      Just east of Denver, near Golden, is the Colorado Railroad Museum.

      If you are in Durango, the Durango & Silverton railroad
      (a nice narrow-gauge mountain scenic tour) has tours of their
      steam engine shop, including the only known remaining engine-wheel
      "quartering" machine (sets loco wheels at 90 degrees on the shaft).

      Montana

      Miracle of America Museum, 58176 Highway 93, Polson, Montana 59860.

      Nevada

      Nevada Northern Railway, in Ely.  A nice 18-mile excursion
      train, but for $2.50 you can get a walking tour of their facilities
      which includes the engine machine shop.  Impressively large lathes
      and such, needed to service the steam and diesel engines.

      California

      Santa Monica Flying Museum.  Santa Monica, CA.  Don't know much
      about it except they have on display a "rotary" engine where the
      crank and pistons are stationary, and the case revolves.

      The Antique Gas & Steam Engine Museum, run in part by
      the California Early Day Gas Engine & Tractor Association.
      2400 North Santa Fe Avenue, Vista CA 92083.  Call (619) 941-1791
      or (800) 5-TRACTOR.  Steam, gas, tractors, blacksmith shop,
      farm implements.  Twice a year for two consecutive weekends
      they start engines, run tractors, and such (apparently the
      last 2 weekends in June and October).

      Canada

      Museum of Steam and Technology, in Hamilton, Ontario.
      Built around the original City of Hamilton waterworks plant and
      contains the two original Gartshore compound rotative beam pumping
      engines from the 1850s.  These engines stand about four stories high.
      The museum also contains quite a bit of steam model oriented exhibits.

      England

      The museum at Iron Bridge (or Ironbridge Gorge) deals
      with the history of the metals industry.

      Black Country Museum in Dudley (West of Birmingham, in the Midlands).
      This was in the heart of small-scale Victorian engineering, and it's
      now a restored canal basin & canal tunnel (boat rides available)
      together with a number of small terraced houses and manufactories.
      Most of the houses have an outbuilding in their back yards with the
      workshops of nailmakers, chainmakers etc.

      The Hunday tractor museum (just off the A69
      Newcastle-Carlisle road).  A farm museum with tractors, implements,
      stationary engines, etc.  They reportedly also have a grass landing
      strip for airplanes, but you'd better call before landing!

      There's a museum in Bath (walk up-hill from the Assembly Rooms)
      which has an interesting collection of old workshop machinery
      (and an old fizzy-water bottling plant).

      If you're in Bristol then visit the Industrial Museum which has a good
      collection of aero engines.

      The Amberley (?spel) Chalk Pits Museum, Sussex.  Perhaps not too
      relevant to this group, as there's more besides old metalwork-style
      engineering.  But their narrow gauge factory railway is still running,
      along with a couple of stationary engines.  Also, a good collection
      of old radio sets and related equipment, and for some, the prize
      exhibit, a UAX13 telephone exchange, still operating, which runs the
      museum phone system.  Add to that a small collection of old domestic
      electrical appliances, demonstrations of old crafts, printing presses,
      etc.

      The Cambridge (or is it Cambridgeshire) Museum of Technology, Cambridge.
      The old water pumping station on the River Cam, and they still run the
      horizontal oscillating steam engines.  These were replaced by
      single-cylinder gas engines which they also run.  There are a couple of
      other engines to see, the original boilers, a small collection of
      electrical stuff, a collection of printing presses, and a few other
      things.  This museum only opens occasionally, so check opening times
      before visiting.

      The Hove Engineerium, near Brighton.  There are about 3 or 4 stationary
      steam engines that are run at some weekends, together with a very nice
      collection of model engines, etc. 

      Science Museum of London has a recently-built "difference engine",
      as designed by Charles Babbage (see February 1993 Scientific
      American).  An amazing machine.

      Kew Bridge Pumping Museum just West of London, across the bridge
      from Kew Gardens.  Lots of steam engines working each weekend,
      including a 90-inch beam engine.  Also internal combustion engines.
      Dave Edmondson has info and pictures at
      http://www.cre.canon.co.uk/~davide/kbsm

      The Mechanical Music Museum is a short walk up the road from the Kew
      museum (above).

      NRM (National Railway Museum) in York, England.  A great place to go
      look at Railway stuff in general, lots of nice big steam engines.
      The NRM is expanding their workshop/restoration area and opening
      it up to the public (from behind a barrier, obviously) so you can
      go and watch them rebuilding and maintaining their "stock".
          National Railway Museum (NRM)
          Leeman Road                     Voice: +44-904-621261
          York YO2 4XJ                      FAX: +44-904-611112

      Manchester Museum of Science and Industry.
      Manchester was one of the primary centers of the industrial revolution -
      the railroad trials in the 1820's were run between Manchester and
      Liverpool (Stevenson's Rocket won, of course), and the area was the heart
      of the cotton and silk industry.  The first canal in Britain originated
      near Manchester to carry coal to factories, and Alan Turing did much of
      his computer work here.  There was also a thriving automobile and
      aircraft industry.

      To support all these activities, there was lots of machinery manufactured
      and used in the area.  The museum has many stationary engines (they claim
      the world's largest collection of working engines), in steam most days;
      also steam railroad engines, one of which does short trips on weekends.
      Also a great collection of microscopes, and interesting exhibits on
      computers, electricity and gas generation, sewers (as in sewage), cotton
      spinning and weaving (they demonstrate machinery at all stages from raw
      cotton to finished cloth).  The machine shop where the museum staff work
      on many projects has a viewing gallery, and this also houses an exhibit
      of old machine tools, including a Holzapfel lathe.


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:09 EDT 1996
Article: 32175 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Books, Advice Please
Date: 2 Aug 1996 12:50:34 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4tstiq$acp@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
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There's a 2-volume set, Machine Tool Operation, by
Henry Burghardt. The US Gov't published zillions of
copies of them around 1942 to help train instant machinests.
The set I've got is McGraw-Hill, hardbound, published
in early 1950's. Really excellent books.

Matter of fact, many of the McGraw-Hill technical books
>from  the early 1950's are excellent. Leo St.Claire's
The Design and Use of Cutting Tools is 400+ pages on
lathe bits!

But for introduction to about everything, Burghardt is
terrific.

(And I second (third?) Sparey's The Amateur's Lathe.) Have
a look at his microscope, made entirely by him in his ML7
lathe. 



From rxg@crosfield.co.uk Sat Aug  3 11:28:10 EDT 1996
Article: 32176 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rxg@crosfield.co.uk (Richard Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 2 Aug 1996 14:06:02 +0100
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Limited
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4tsufq$fh9@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: suneng1.crosfield.co.uk

>From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)

>Hi... I'm back again... after starting this thread, I'm amazed at all
>the ground that has been covered... but still not clear on what would 
>be a simple solution to my problem.  Allow me to restate the question.

>I want to run a 48 VDC PM motors from the house 110 VAC power.  I know
>that I could use a variac or step down transformer.........

>I see that Sherline uses a 90 VDC PM motor on their tools and that they 
>can run the same tool on 110 OR 220 VAC by merely changing the plug that
>goes into the wall socket for their export model.  What they do, seems to
>be the answer to my problem.  

Maybe they are wiring across two phases in the US to run on 200V AC and between
Line and Neutral in 230V AC areas. Its a trick used by many companies when
exporting 230V AC equipment from Europe to the US. Once you have a stable
voltage to work with (ie. a near constant 200V AC) you can adjust the internal
components of the motor controller to cope with the drop to 90V DC for the 
motor.
That 90V DC will only be nominal anyway, the insulation on the windings will
probably be good for around 600V at elevated temperatures ( probably UL1015
rating, 600V @ 105C ) and the firing phase of the thyristors control the power
fed to the motor and thus the temperature rise. A motor is only a lump of iron 
with some insulated copper wound round it, votage ratings are only nominal.
(I realise this is a provocative statement, anyone care to argue?)

Richard Griffin


   




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:11 EDT 1996
Article: 32177 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jinan Lathe
Date: 2 Aug 1996 13:03:11 GMT
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>PS.: a  Jinan 14*40 is a 3000 lb lathe so it's a bit different from a
>Jet lathe.


Not necessarily.  I think Jet sells some lathes that big.


This doesn't help you with the lathe question any, but my Jet milling
machine was made by Kao Fong.




From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:13 EDT 1996
Article: 32178 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 7 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101613.24432@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:13 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 7
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:13 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 478

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 7 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

32.   How do I cut metal?

      Jim Driscoll (driscoll@curacao.dartmouth.edu) posted a list of cutting
      methods, ranging from simple to exotic.  There were several subsequent
      suggestions and additions.

      - Snips

      Sometimes also called shears, though true shears are large machines
      (see entry below).

      These things are scissors that will cut light gauge metal [up to 23-18
      gauge, depending on type] and are comparatively inexpensive [$15-$42,
      W. W. Grainger (WWG)].  The lighter the material the easier they are
      to use, and the more likely it is that you can cut a curved shape
      successfully.

      Especially in aviation use, snips come in "left", "right", and
      "straight" styles.  This refers to the direction in which you
      must move the tool as you cut.

      There are electric versions of these, called electric shears, that will
      cut up to 12ga mild, cut down to 1in radius, and cost from $204-$612.
      I have no experience with these.

      - Knock-out Punches

      Sometimes what you want to cut is a circle, or a slot for a computer
      connector.  In these cases there are standard punches that will cut
      these shapes accurately.  You first drill a pilot hole and put the
      cutter on one side, the die on the other, and then draw them together
      by turning a threaded bolt.  The larger sizes require a hydraulic
      driver.

      The manufacturer claims that these are good up to 10 gauge mild, but I
      have managed to cut holes in 12ga stainless (a tad thinner, but
      stronger). These things cost $17-$66 (WWG) for up to 2in, considerably
      more for the larger sizes ($309 for 4in).

      - Hack Saw

      You probably already know about this, but don't forget it.  Its
      portable and cheap, but can be tiring.  Use both hands, and buy the
      best blade you can afford.  Any blade can break, so be careful.
      Cutting fluid reportedly helps, just as it does in lathe/mill cutting.
      The right number of teeth per inch (tpi) can also be important; as a rule
      of thumb, you want 3 teeth in the work, so for example you'd want 6 to 12
      tpi for 1/2-inch stock.

      - SawzAll

      Sawzall is a trademark of Milwaukee for a reciprocating saw, more or
      less a jigsaw on steroids (And don't forget the jigsaw!).  These cost
      $136-$187 and with enough patience and blades can cut fairly heavy
      material in complex shapes (well, at least curves of 3in radius).  One
      metal fabricator I met cuts the patterns for his stainless cones with
      a Sawzall.  He has just broken down an purchased a plasma torch
      (q.v.).

      - Band Saw upright/cutoff

      These come in every size from the tiny to the unimaginably big.  They
      come in two basic styles, an upright version that is better for trying
      to cut shapes, and a cut-off version that has the throat arranged so
      that an arbitrarily large length can be cut off of an arbitrarily long
      piece of stock.  These things, for a reasonable size for a home shop
      cost from $150-$5000.  I have a version of the cheesey cut-off saw
      sold by Enco and others for about $200.  It has its limitations, but I
      am happy with it.

      - Grinder with Cutoff Wheel

      With an angle grinder or a die grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel,
      you can cut pipe, tube, rounds, flats, sheet, and maybe even plate,
      but only in straight line, or maybe a very large radius curve.  If you
      already have a grinder, this is a very inexpensive solution ($4 for an
      abrasive wheel).

      There are also cutoff wheels designed for use in circular saws.

      - Chop Saw

      This is basically a mitre saw with an abrasive cutoff wheel.  It's the
      kind of thing a contractor users to cut metal studs or rebar, but I
      use one to cut pipe, tube, rounds, and flat stock quickly.  They cost
      $233-$502.

      - Nibbler

      These look a bit like a jigsaw, but instead of a blade, they have a
      punch and die assembly.  They work by punching out material 1-2000
      times per minute along the cutting path.  Some are designed with a
      round punch so that the tool can be turned in any direction and the
      cut continued for cutting intricate shapes.  These cost from $318
      (16ga mild) to $1060 (8ga mild).  You can rent these at my local tool
      rental store.

      There are also small hand-powered nibblers from Radio Shack and the
      like, useful for odd holes in small chassis and the like.

      - Lathe/Milling Machine

      Don't forget that you can use a lathe to cut off material to a precise
      length or to finish a crudely cut piece to a more precise dimension.

      A milling machine can be used to mill slots for connectors as well as
      other crazily shaped holes in heavier material.

      - Shear

      (sometimes "shear" is also used to describe snips, discussed earlier)

      A shear is basically a giant pair of scissors that is designed to cut
      sheet or plate along a straight line into two pieces rather cleanly
      and somewhat precisely (+-1/32).  A small 30in combination shear,
      brake, and roll, that is manually powered and can shear 20ga mild
      costs $1095.  Shears, however, are made unimaginably large, and if you
      go to a shipyard, you can probably get your 2in plate sheared there.
      It is probably outside the budget of most to actually buy a shear for
      anything but very light material.  Your best bet is to find a welding
      shop in a cheap part of town, that has operated for generations, that
      seems to have nothing to do, and that has a shear.

      - Flame Cutting

      The idea behind flame cutting is to heat up ferrous metal until it
      starts to burn, and then direct oxygen at it in the direction you want
      to cut to continue the burn in that direction.  When I was on a tight
      budget I successfully got my job done with a $20 hardware store
      oxygen/propane outfit, but for about $200-$300 plus the rental/deposit
      on the tanks you can have a nice welding/cutting rig that will cut 6in
      plate.

      You can cut fairly intricate shapes with this, and depending on your
      skill and dexterity and the thickness of the material they will have a
      fairly clean edge.

      One drawback of this method is that it is material specific.  It will
      not cut stainless, for instance.  (Well, actually I have seen the
      results of someone ``severing'' stainless with a burning rig [``cut''
      would be a bit generous considering the results], and I am suspicious
      that what really happened was that the stainless was melted away.)

      - Plasma Cutting

      A plasma torch transfers an electric arc from the torch to the work
      piece which heats up a stream of gas (usually just compressed air) to
      a plasma.  The thin stream of plasma is so hot that it will cut any
      known metal (That is, according to my manual.  I am suspicious that it
      will cut all the unknown ones too.)  A hand held torch that can cut
      1/8in mild costs about $1000 and you need a compressor or an air
      cylinder too.  The quality of the cut is very good if you have enough
      power for the thickness of the material and if you can move the torch
      smoothly.

      I have a 30amp plasma torch from HyperTherm that I am very pleased
      with.  I use it to cut stainless and use nitrogen for the cutting gas.

      If you are considering buying one of these, you should know that 30
      amps from one manufacturer may not cut as much or as well as 20 amps
      from another.  Also, when one manufacturer claims that their machine
      will cut 1/2" plate it may not be the same quality of cut as another
      machine that claims to cut 1/2":  the closer you push the machine to
      its limit, the worse the cut.

      - Laser Cutting

      A friend of a friend in the Netherlands has one of these that looks
      like a scroll saw and cuts thick material cleanly, rapidly, and
      intricately.  I have no knowledge of small units like this in this
      country despite modest attempts to find them.  There is no particular
      reason why these should be terribly expensive.

      Warning: Many of the cutting methods above utilize tools with which it
      is quite easy to injure yourself.  It is important to lean and follow
      the proper precautions in using tools and equipment.  I know this
      because, for example, I burned myself with liquid propane out of
      ignorance of the proper safety precautions for handling fork lift
      propane cylinders.

      --------------------------------------------------

      On 7/1/96, Edward Haas <steamer@west.net> contributed a few more:

      - Cold Saws 

      A circular saw that runs at low speed, using a blade with "flat" teeth,
      i.e. no bevelling to one side or the other like on a wood-cutting blade.
      Runs with a soluble oil being pumped over the blade, soaking the work
      that way.  Very useful and fast.  Good for cutting most anything and
      doing so *much* faster than a bandsaw/chopsaw arrangement.  Unlike an
      abrasive saw, it will not clog or balk at nonferrous alloys such as
      aluminum.  I use one for cutting alloy #4130 in a production set-up to
      make hex keys and it is quite accurate and time-efficient.

      - Wet Abrasive Cutoff Saw

      These use a small-ish "blade" (actually what is referred to as a
      "rubber wheel"), maybe 6in. in diameter with a *very* narrow kerf:
      mine uses a blade only .050in. or so thick.  Rotational speed is around
      5,000rpm and with coolant shot onto either side of the wheel, an instant
      fog is produced, so an enclosure is recommended.  The advantages: it
      will cut *anything*, hard or soft makes no difference; the finish is
      superb: you can see your reflection in a piece of hardened shaft; the
      burrs left are minimal, making it ideal for cutting small or delicate
      parts (I'm told it's the method most used for cutting hypodermic tubing,
      etc.).  Not cheap: figure $5,000 for a good one (and there are some bad
      ones out there: I've got one!)

33.   What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?

      This is certainly a frequently asked question!  The first answer is to
      use whatever the manufacturer's manual suggests, presuming you have
      a manual for your machine.

      Feed-screw threads, half nuts, back gears and similar are usually
      lubricated with a heavy oil such as Vactra 2, or grease if protected
      from chips and swarf.  Some suggest a mixture of oil and STP oil
      treatment.

      Beds and "ways" are often treated with special oils, called "way oils".
      ISO 68 (light to medium weight).  Examples:  Exxon Febis K 68, Shell
      Tona T-68, Sun way lub 1180, Mobil Vactra No 2, Texaco Way lube 68,
      Gulf Gulfway 68, Cheveron Vistac 68X.

      Spindle bearings call for "spindle oil" such as Exxon Nutto H32,
      Shell Tellus V32, BP HLP32, Castrol Hyspin AWS32, and Mobil DTE 32
      (in this case the 32 is the ISO VG32 spec, about the same as SAE
      10-weight, and is what Myford recommends for their lathes).  ISO
      grade 22 is also used.

      All three types are available from the better supply outfits,
      such as MSC.  Remember that the money you spend on proper oils will
      be a lot less than the cost of replacing the machine!

      South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
      their 9" and 10" lathes:  CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
      oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 teflon grease.  These are
      available from South Bend.

      A suggestion I've read is to oil lathe ways before using, to clean off
      dust/grunge that may have accumulated since you last used it.  After
      work is finished, wipe off but leave a film for rust prevention.

      Multigrade motor lubricants are not recommended.  They are full of
      all sorts of stuff to make the oil work inside an internal combustion
      engine.  Use a straight 30 or 20 grade oil with no detergent if you
      can't find anything else.  A transmission oil might be OK in an
      oil-filled gearcase.

      Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
      Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.

34.   What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?

      Unfortunately, there are many different tapers, and not enough
      space to tabulate them here.  For details, consult a good reference
      such as Machinery's Handbook, or Machinists' Ready Reference.

      First, why use tapers?  Two basic reasons.  At shallow angles,
      a tapered rod will tend to stick in a matching socket.  This
      is frequently used to hold tools such as drills or centers in
      a lathe tailstock, allowing rapid change.  At steep or shallow
      angles, a taper allows mating parts to line up very accurately.
      Note that the shallow tapers such as Morse may tend to get
      stuck if too much force is used, and this can turn into an
      interesting problem when you try to separate them!

      Tapers are poor holders for large side-loads, in which case
      you need a drawbolt or drawbar.  Here, a threaded bar is used to
      pull (draw) the tool into the socket and hold it in place.
      This is commonly used in milling machines and for collets.

      Shallow tapers such as Morse are "grabby" and need some force
      to break free.  Beyond a certain angle, a taper is self-releasing
      if the coefficient of friction is less than the tangent of the
      taper angle.

      Tapers can be sensitive to chips and dirt, so keep them clean.
      A gouged taper socket can usually be cleaned up nicely with a
      taper reamer, if you can borrow one.

      Morse:  Very common in lathe spindles and tailstocks.  Different
      standard sizes exist, such as MT1, MT2, and so on.  The actual
      taper varies from one size to the next.
         MT0   small=.2520 inch, large=.3561 inch, taper=.62460 in/ft
         MT1   small=.3690 inch, large=.4750 inch, taper=.59858 in/ft
         MT2   small=.5720 inch, large=.7000 inch, taper=.59941 in/ft
         MT3   small=.7780 inch, large=.9380 inch, taper=.60235 in/ft
         MT4   small=1.020 inch, large=1.231 inch, taper=.62326 in/ft
         4 1/2 small=1.266 inch, large=1.500 inch, taper=.62400 in/ft
         MT5   small=1.475 inch, large=1.748 inch, taper=.63151 in/ft
         MT6   small=2.116 inch, large=2.494 inch, taper=.62565 in/ft
         MT7   small=2.750 inch, large=3.270 inch, taper=.62400 in/ft
      These values are for the "business" part of the taper, and exclude
      whatever the taper is attached to, such as a drill or a center,
      and also excludes the tang, if any.  Note that there is no overlap,
      making it practically impossible to mate mis-matched tapers (this
      may also explain the different taper rates).  Some MT accessories such
      as drills will have a flat tang on the end, intended to mate with
      a matching slot in the socket, to give a setup better strength
      against rotation; in this case the taper is primarily being used
      for alignment, and to hold the drill from falling out when not
      being used.  Most small home-sized lathes use between MT0 (e.g.
      the Sherline) and MT4.  Larger taper sockets may include a
      sideways slot, intended for a flat tapered knock-out bar to
      facilitate tool removal.  Machinery's Handbook claims that Morse
      tapers are the only type of taper used on drills that have a
      taper shank.

      Morse Stub: a variation of Morse, but less than half as long.
      Same numbers as Morse, and correspond to the large end; that is,
      you can make a Morse Stub #3 by slicing off the end of a standard
      Morse #3 (excluding the problem of making the tang, if any).

      Brown & Sharpe tapers are similar to Morse tapers, but are
      found on some end mills and reamers, and on milling machines
      and grinding machines, also dividing heads.  Sometimes they have
      a tang, sometimes they are drilled and tapped for a draw-bolt.
      Some examples:
         BS1   small=.20000 inch, large=.23922 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS2   small=.25000 inch, large=.29968 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS3   small=.31250 inch, large=.37525 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS4   small=.3500  inch, large=.4023  inch, taper=.50240 in/ft
         BS5-BS18 see references.  Taper varies with number.

      Jarno:  Used on various machines, such as profiling machines and
      die-sinking machines, and on some lathes.  An attempt to create
      a very simple taper: all of them are .6 inch of taper per foot,
      the diameter at the large end is as many eighths, the diameter at
      the small end is as many tenths, and the length as many half-inches
      as the number of the taper (i.e. machinists making tapers didn't
      have to use big formulae or tables).   Some examples:
         2   small=.2, large=.25
         3   small=.3, large=.375
         4-20 see references, or compute from formulae above.

      Jacobs Taper:  commonly used to mount a drill chuck to a machine,
      whether a drill press or a lathe tailstock.  Since most chucks
      use a female Jacobs, such as JT6, and most tailstocks are female
      Morse, an adapter bar is usually used here, with the appropriate
      tapers on each end.  The taper varies quite a bit with taper number.
         0   small=.22844, large=.2500, taper=.59145 inch per foot
         1   small=.33341, large=.3840, taper=.92508 inch per foot
         2   small=.48764, large=.5590, taper=.97861 inch per foot
         2S  small=.48764, large=.5488, taper=.97861 inch per foot
         3   small=.74610, large=.8110, taper=.63898 inch per foot
         4   small=1.0372, large=1.1240, taper=.62886 inch per foot
         5   small=1.3161, large=1.4130, taper=.62010 inch per foot
         6   small=.6241,  large=.6760, taper=.62292 inch per foot
        33   small=.5605,  large=.6240, taper=.76194 inch per foot
      Nubers 0-5 appear to have been original, in that number 6 and
      number 33 are smaller than 5, and have a length of exactly 1 inch,
      and thus seem like later additions to the series.  Note some Jacobs
      chucks also have a threaded tang; see Machinery's Handbook for details.

      R8:  Frequently used on milling machine spindles.  Lots of tooling
      is available for R8.  Requires the use of a drawbar as the angle
      is relatively "blunt" and usage is often vertical with large side
      loads.  The taper is apparently 16 degrees 51 minutes, and the
      relevant diameters are .949 and 1.25 inches.  The drawbar thread
      is 7/16-20

      Others:

        American National Standard Tapers: really several families.
        The "self-holding" series appears largely identical to Morse
        except for details of the tang dimensions:  ANS continues the
        taper all the way down the sides of the tang, while Morse ends
        the taper at the start of the tang, with a straight-sided tang
        that starts out a bit smaller than where the taper left off.
        Some very small tapers are based on Brown & Sharp (they have
        fractional numbers), and some large ones use a taper of
        .75 inch per foot (numbers 200-1200).  They also have a
        separate family of steep tapers, numbered 5-30 in steps of
        5, apparently meant for milling machine spindles and such.

        British Standard Tapers: mentioned in Machinery's Handbook
        but not really explained.  Sorry.

35.  What is Electric Discharge Machining (EDM)?

     EDM is a method for producing holes and slots, or other shapes,
     by using an electric discharge (spark) to remove unwanted
     material.  It is also called spark erosion.  Sometimes it is
     used to produce a part, such as producing a slot in a very hard
     metal, and sometimes it is used to "rescue" a part such as
     removing a broken tap.

     The basic idea is to move an electrode very close to the work
     piece, and repeatedly produce a spark between the two.  This is
     best done while immersed in a dielectric liquid rather than in
     air, and it helps if the proper distance can be automatically
     maintained.  Note that the electrode gets eaten as well as the
     workpiece, and some compensation must be made for this.  Very
     good finish can be achieved, though at reduced speed.  EDM is
     not a fast method; some jobs can take days to produce holes,
     so its use is limited to jobs that cannot easily be done in
     other ways (e.g. oblong slots or complex shapes, sometimes in
     very hard material).  Note too the work must be conductive so
     it does not work on materials such as glass or ceramic, or most
     plastics.

     A good overview is in the Metals Handbook published by the
     American Society for Metals (ASM), volume 3, "Machining"
     (page 227 of the 8th edition, 1967).

     A wire EDM machine uses a wire (usually brass) as the electrode,
     which passes between guides like a bandsaw blade.  The wire may be used
     only once.  As it runs from a spool through the job, it is eroded and 
     reduced in diameter by as much as 1/3.  The old immersion system
     has now been largely replaced by flushing nozzles which surround
     the upper and lower wire guides.  These blast the dielectric
     through the cut.  This system works well, and has the tremendous
     advantage of being quick to shut off to remove parts, rethread
     broken wire, etc.

     As to the functionality of the wire EDM system, just imagine what
     you can do with a wire that leaves a .010" kerf through 6" thick
     stainless steel without heating it up.  With the CNC control 
     a taper can be imparted to the workpiece, because even the low-end
     machines have independently controlled upper and lower guide 
     movement.  High-end machines are mostly a way of getting more
     power (and therefore faster operation); more capacity; and 
     convenience features, like automatic wire threading and a 
     sinker-EDM head to create internal starting holes in hard material.

     EDM is well-suited for automated control.  In fact, it seems
     almost the only way to go, which usually puts sophisticated
     EDM out of the reach of most home shop machinists.  Luckily,
     the fundamentals are simple enough you can get by without
     computer control at the expense of constantly adjusting the
     gap manually, as is the case in the Popular Science article.

     An easily-built system is described in Popular Science, March 1968,
     pages 149-153.  However, it is electrically dangerous from a shock
     standpoint, and suggests using kerosene as the dielectric which is
     a strong fire hazard.  This machine was reworked a bit in the
     January 1991 issue of Home Shop Machinist (HSM), with a few
     notes in March 1991 (page 11), July 1991 (pages 4-6), May 1992
     (pages 10-11), May 1994 (page 44), and May 1995 (page 19).  EDM was
     described in February 1993 in Electronics Now (pages 79-81) along
     with a list of EDM resources, with a followup in the May 1993 issue
     (pages 78-80) that references the Popular Science and HSM articles.
     This machine requires "manual" feed of the electrode.  Please note
     that non-flammable dielectrics should be used, and are available from
     supply companies such as MSC (I have also heard of using de-ionized
     water as the dielectric).

     A more complex system was described in the July 16 and August 6 1976
     issues of Model Engineer magazine (with a letter in the November 5
     1976 issue, and a followup in the October 2 1981 issue).  In this
     case a small stepping motor is used to automatically feed the
     electrode.  This is a great improvement, but complicates building
     the system unless one of your other hobbies is electronics.

     From August 1993 to April 1994, Strictly IC magazine published
     a serial on building another stepper-driven machine.  Being
     newer, it may be easier to build because the parts listed are
     probably still available.  But, again, electronics should be
     another hobby (or perhaps you have a friend who needs some
     machining done?).  The series also suffers a bit from the
     author re-designing the system as the series was published,
     but who ever builds something as published, anyway?  (There
     was also a letter on the project, in February 1995)

     In May 1995, HSM started a six-part (one year) series on another
     complex EDM system, inspired by the Model Engineer series but
     updated to use contemporary parts.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:14 EDT 1996
Article: 32179 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 8 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101615.24433@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:15 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 8
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:15 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 455

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 8 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

36.  Solvent safety
     Doug White (gwhite@ll.mit.edu) posted this on 11/16/94 regarding
     safety of some common solvents:

         HEALTH HAZARDS OF COMMON CHEMICAL CLEANING SOLVENTS

     People in several different newsgroups I subscribe to use chemical
     solvents for various projects.  A while back in rec.bicycles, there was a
     discussion of the health hazards of using these solvents.  A friend of
     mine is in the laboratory safety business, and ran off copies of the
     'Material Safety Data Sheets' (MSDS) for many of the common solvents.
     It's a bit tricky to cover everything, because some are known by several
     different names, and MSDS's from different sources don't list things in a 
     consistent manner.  I've attempted to consolidate this information into 
     something that covers the critical differences between the solvents, and 
     that is easy to understand for people like me who aren't safety experts 
     or chemists.

     I've listed these (roughly) in decreasing order of 'nastiness'.  It's
     difficult to do a precise ranking, because some solvents are greater
     risks depending on whether you touch it, breath it, drink it, or set it
     on fire.  If there is anything you like to use that you don't see here, 
     just call the manufacturer and ask for the MSDS on the product.  They 
     are required by law to send you one.  There are several key things I 
     would watch out for:

     1) How flammable is it?  Solvents are rated either highly flammable, 
        flammable, combustible, or non-flammable, depending on the flashpoint.
        I believe anything with a flashpoint below 100F is considered at least
        flammable.

     2) Check the Time Weighted Average exposure limit.  This is usually 
        listed in parts per million, or milligrams per cubic meter (mg/M*3).
        This will give a rough feel for how toxic the stuff is.

     3) Look for specific problems.  Can it be toxic if absorb through the
        skin?  Is it just an eye irritant, or will contact cause damage?

     Because all of these solvents dissolve grease and oil, at a minimum, they
     will leach the oils out of your skin.  With prolonged exposure, this can
     cause irritation and dermatitis.  Your senses are a good warning system.
     If a mere whiff of something makes your eyes water and your head spin,
     it's probably not too good for you.  Whatever you like to use, do so with 
     adequate ventilation, gloves, eye protection, and away from any source 
     of combustion.

     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Nitrobenzine: (AKA Essence of Mirbane, Mirbane oil)  I've included this
     because it used to be used in some gun cleaning solvents.  It was
     removed because of health risks.  Nasty stuff.

      Very toxic by inhalation, skin contact, or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Danger of cumulative effects, causes nervous system disorders
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 190F, 87C 
      Readily absorbed through skin, do not breath vapor.
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 1 part per million (5 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Kerosene: (AKA Coal Oil, Range Oil)  Easy to obtain.  This was my
     father's favorite all-round solvent.  Works well on bicycles chains.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 100F, 38C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 14 parts per million (100 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Lacquer Thinner: This is a mixture of a variety of chemicals, and will 
     vary with manufacturer.  Some of the components are pretty nasty, but
     information on the mixture is not very complete.  The brand I have a
     data sheet on contains: Isopropanol, n Butyl Acetate, Methanol, Acetone,
     VM&P Naptha, Toluene, and Hexane.  This is a particularly effective
     solvent, and works very well removing hardened grease and grime from old
     machine tools.

      Toxic by inhalation, minimal toxicity by ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Flammable, Flashpoint = -10F, -23C 
      The Worst component (Hexane) has a Time Weighted Average exposure limit
      of 50 parts per million, but it's percentage in the mixture is unknown
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Naptha: (AKA Lighter Fluid, Petroleum Ether)  This is one of my favorite
     cleaning solvents, because it doesn't attack most plastics or paint.
     It's great for removing adhesive from tape and labels.  Although it is
     listed as a skin irritant, it isn't toxic if you spill some on your
     hands.  

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Highly Flammable, Flashpoint = -57F, -49C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (400 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Paint Thinner: (AKA Mineral Spirits, Petroleum Naptha) A common solvent,
     readily available at most hardware stores.  It is considered non-
     irritating to eyes.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to respiratory system, slightly irritating to skin
      Attacks central nervous system
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 111F, 44C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (400 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Turpentine: (AKA Spirit or Oil of Turpentine)  I never use this anymore,
     but it was THE standard paint brush cleaner before latex paints came
     out.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin
      Can penetrate skin to produce systemic effects.  Can cause eye damage
      Prolonged exposure can cause allergenic sensitization.
      Combustible to Flammable, Flashpoint = 90-115F, 32-46C 
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 100 parts per million (560 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Acetone: (AKA Methyl Ketone, Propanone, Pyroacetic Ether)  The one unique
     application I know of for acetone is that it dissolves cyanoacrylate
     glues (SuperGlue).  It will attack many plastics.

      Toxic by inhalation or ingestion
      Irritating to respiratory system and skin
      Risk of serious damage to eyes
      Attacks liver and kidneys
      Flammable, Flashpoint = 1F, -17C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 200-1000 parts per million 
      (470-2400 mg/M*3) (Varies substantially from country to country)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Denatured Alcohol: (Denatured Ethanol)  This is ethyl alcohol with just
     enough 'denaturant' to make you violently ill if you try to make a 
     cocktail out of it.  Denaturants vary, but the most common one is a few
     percent methyl alcohol (methanol).  I couldn't find a MSDS on the
     'denatured' version, so the info below is from the ethanol MSDS.  The
     only major difference should be in toxicity by ingestion, which is the
     whole point of the denaturant.  Ethanol is a fairly mild solvent, and
     may require more patience and elbow grease than others.  On the other
     hand, it's pretty safe.  Water dissolves in it, so you can use it to dry
     off delicate items that have gotten wet, or have been washed in water
     first.  Ethanol will cleanly remove even the most fossilized protective
     paper from acrylic plastic (Plexiglass), if you let it soak overnight in
     a plastic bag.

      Somewhat toxic by ingestion (mostly because of denaturant)
      Excessive exposure to vapors can cause eye and respiratory irritation
      Flammable, Flashpoint = 50-55F, 10-13C
      Time Weighted Average exposure limit 1000 parts per million (1900 mg/M*3)
     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Orange Oil: (AKA OptiClear & lots of other tradenames)  This is listed as
     a 'food oil distillate'.  It's a volatile liquid extracted from orange 
     peels, and smells like oranges.  The manufacture of 'OptiClear'
     recommends it as a replacement for 'toluene, xylene, or chlorinated
     hydrocarbons such as TCE' (Trichloroethylene).  It is biodegradable.
     This is the only type of solvent that is listed as GRAS (Generally
     Regarded as Safe).  

      Not considered toxic
      Can cause skin irritation
      Combustible, Flashpoint = 140F, 60C
      No exposure limit

     Before everyone floods me with email asking where you can get this
     stuff, 'OptiClear' is an optical grade solvent used at the lab where I
     work.  It's probably a bit more refined (and expensive) than what most
     people need.  The price info I have is very old, but lists a case of 
     four 1 gallon jugs for $86.  It's manufactured by:

      National Diagnostics, Inc.
      1013-1017 Kennedy Blvd.
      Manville, NJ  08835
      (201) 722-8600

     I have seen ads for other brands of orange based solvents, but haven't 
     ever bought any.  My local hardware stores don't seem to carry it.  If
     someone has a good source, I'd love to hear about it.

37.  What does "gage" (or "gauge") mean?

     Webster's seems to prefer "gauge", but Machinery's Ready Reference
     uses "gage" for sheet, and "gauge" for wire.  Strictly speaking,
     "gauge" is a measuring device, and "gage" a measurement system,
     but common usage has corrupted the distinction.

     An arbitrary assignment of numbers to size, used on sheet, wire,
     and many other things (tubing, shotgun bore, needles, and so on).
     Unfortunately there are so many different standards that using gage
     to specify a material is almost useless, and perhaps even dangerous.
     If in doubt, use decimals.

     For example, in U.S. gage, the standard for sheet metal is based
     on the weight of the metal, not on the thickness.  16-gage is listed
     as approximately .0625 inch thick and 40 ounces per square foot
     (the original standard was based on wrought iron at .2778 pounds per
     cubic inch; steel has almost entirely superseded wrought iron for
     sheet use, at .2833 pounds per cubic inch).  Smaller numbers refer
     to greater thickness.  There is no formula for converting gage to
     thickness or weight.

     Wire might be specified in American or Browne & Sharpe, Birmingham or
     Stubs, Washburn & Moen, Trenton Iron Co., Stubs' Steel, Imperial Wire
     gage, music wire gauge, or others.  In the US, I've commonly seen
     electrical wire in AWG (American Wire Gauge); even-numbered values
     are much more common than odd ones.  As an example, 12-gauge wire
     is .081" (AWG), .109" (Birmingham or Stubs), .105" (Washburn & Moen),
     .028" (music wire gauge).  In most cases a larger gauge means smaller
     wire, except music wire goes the other way around!

     If you need specific values for specific gages, many are listed in
     various references such as Machinery's Handbook.

     On September 20, 1994, Rowland Carson posted a nice list of most of
     the gauge systems in use worldwide:

      Alhoff & Muller Music Wire Gauge         music wire
      American Screw & Wire Co Music Wire Gauge    music wire, spring wire
      American Zinc Gauge                      zinc sheet
      ASA B32.1                                uncoated thin flat metals USA
      Birmingham Gauge                   BG    iron hoop & strip, steel sheet
      Birmingham Wire Gauge              BWG   iron & steel telephone wire
      Birmingham Wire Gauge for Silver & Gold      silver & gold
      Brown & Sharpe Wire Gauge          B & S non-ferrous sheet & strip
      Brunton Music Wire Gauge                 music wire
      Card Wire Gauge                    CWG   fibre yarns
      Continental Zinc Gauge                   sheet & strip
      English Music Wire Gauge                 music wire
      English Zinc Wire Gauge                  zinc sheet
      Felten & Guilleame Music Wire Gauge      music wire
      German Sheet Gauge                       sheet metal
      Instrument Wire Gauge                    instrument wire
      ISO Metric Preferred Series (R388)       all applications
      Junge de Paris                           copper wires
      Lancashire Pinion Wire Gauge       LPG   cast steel drill rods
      Mathieson & Hegeler Gauge          M & H zinc sheet
      Millimetre Wire Gauge                    steel wire
      National Wire Gauge                NWG   steel wire
      Poehlimann Music Wire Gauge              music wire
      Printers Wire Gauge                      printers wire
      Roebling Wire Gauge                      steel wire
      Sewing & Darning Needle Series           sewing & darning needles
      Standard Wire Gauge                SWG   wire & strip, tube thickness
      Stitching Wire Gauge
      Stubs Iron WIre Gauge                    iron wire
      Stubs Steel Wire Gauge                   steel drill rod
      Tinplate                                 finished tinplate
      Twist Drill & Steel Wire Gauge           drill rod
      US Galvanised Sheet Gauge          GSG   galvanised sheet
      US Manufacturers' Standard Gauge   MSG   iron & steel sheets & plates
      US Standard Gauge                  USG   stainless steel
      US Steel Wire Gauge                USSWG steel wire
      Washburn & Moen Gauge              WG    steel wire
      Warrington Wire Gauge                    steel wire
      Yorkshire Wire Gauge                     steel wire

38.  Leveling a lathe

     Most people agree that a lathe should be properly leveled to get the
     best accuracy.  This seems to be true of large lathes more than small
     ones even if they are extremely heavy.  One method is to use a precision
     level, though Charlie Greenman (greenmana@delphi.com) pointed out
     the following method (late January 1995) which was also written
     up in August 1995's Projects In Metal by Steve Wellcome:
     -----
     I'll talk about this one more time, as it's worth it and you can go truly
     crazy doing lathe alignment with a level unless it's a new or totally
     unworn lathe bed AND the top of the inverted V's (which do not contact
     anything) are perfect.  The saddle (on a V-bed lathe) does not touch the
     top of the V's (or it had better not).  And it is the top of those V's
     that you are using to to align the bed.  It is also the top of the V's on
     which things large and small fall.  So if you have a new lathe bed then
     fine, spend $100 or so, spend a month making one, or borrow an alignment
     level and have at it.  Or you can depend on simple geometry -- the fact
     that anything held in a chuck in the headstock HAS to revolve about the
     axis of the headstock spindle, and use that technique to align the lathe
     bed...

     A good setup level indicates .0005"/foot and they are expensive.
 
     You can set up your lathe this way.  This works I've done it.  You have
     to put some means of adjusting the feet of the lathe bed that you can
     adjust.  The last chapter of Tubal Cain's Workholding in the Lathe has a
     beautiful description of this.  Get the lathe fairly level and somewhat
     tightened down.  Get a good round rod that is very round and the same
     diameter end to end.  A nontrashed car strut will work.  Put the rod in
     the 3-jaw chuck.  Get something like the Starrett last word and put it on
     it's magbase and the magbase on the compound.  Rotate the rod in the
     3-jaw and adjust the compound using the cross-slide such that the swing
     on the dial exactly straddles the 0.  Say there is 6thou total runout at
     the chuck. You'd want 3thou on each side of the 0.
 
     Run the carriage down toward the tailstock and again rotate the bar.  The
     actual runout you get is not important.  What is important is that the
     reading on both sides of the 0 is the same.  If there's 20 thou total
     runout, you'd want 10 thou on each side of the 0.  If it is say -8 and
     plus 12 that means that the right front leg (tailstock end, nearest you)
     is high.  Lower it a bit.  Go back to the headstock and again set the dti
     so that it straddles the 0, move to the tailstock end of the bar and check
     it again.  When you get it such that the magnitude straddles the 0 at the
     chuck end of the rod (the carriage as close to the headstock as you can
     get it) and it straddles the 0 at the tailstock end, you've aligned the
     lathe bed.  Now, here's the pisser.  You can see, quite literally, how
     much (if any) wear there is in the bed by checking the rod along the way.
     You will probably find that there is some wear up near the headstock.
     And you can see how much wear there is by seeing the difference in the
     straddle on the dti.  If you have a .0001 dti, all the better.
 
     What is important on the rod is that it is round and smooth and the same
     diameter. It does not matter if it is straight as you know damned well
     that it's going to be swinging around the headstock axis no matter how
     bent!  The only problem with a really bent rod is the runout might go
     beyond the range of your dti.  You might want to read this a couple of
     times and think about it before doing it. :-)   This is not originial
     with me (I'm not smart enough).  It is, I believe, original with Arthur
     Gaucher, a retired tool and die maker who has forgotten more about this
     stuff than I shall ever know.
     ...
     I had a pretty whacked Logan lathe bed and this technique told me how
     whacked it was and where.  You can jack up the right front leg (the near
     side of the tailstock end) to compensate for one hell of a lot of bed
     wear but unhappily the tailstock will no longer be anywhere near aligned
     with the headstock!  So it won't really fix anything, but it will tell
     you the truth about your lathe bed.  And itt will allow you to 'average'
     the error such that you minimize the problem of a *little* bed wear
     without throwing the tailstock out by much.

39.  Wind Chimes

     From time to time people ask how to make wind chimes, especially
     how to calculate the lengths of the tubes/rods.  There is no precise
     answer to this question!  Let's discuss it.

     There was an article in Projects In Metal, December 1991,
     "Eight-tube Wind Chimes" by Thomas F. Howard.  This is probably also
     reprinted in one of the "Metalworking" books by Village Press that
     condense issues of the magazine.  I'll refer to this article in a
     few places simply as "Howard".

     First, there are lots of aspects of making one, other than how long
     to cut the chimes.  How many chimes?  What kind of chord do you want
     (major, minor, pentatonic, etc.).  How should you arrange them?
     How big should the clapper be?

     First we'll discuss the chimes themselves, and address material and
     length.

     Different materials react in different ways.  The tone will depend on
     the material (steel, aluminum, brass, the exact alloy, heat treatment
     and so on), whether you are using a solid cylinder or a tube, and if
     a tube, the wall thickness.  It may also depend on the hanging method,
     and the tone quality will depend on how you strike a tube (with a hard
     object or a soft one, for example).  Howard suggests hardwoods.

     Note that with a whistle, such as an organ pipe, the pitch is determined
     primarily by the length of the air column.  It is the air that vibrates.
     The pipe material helps determine the "timbre" or "voice" of the pipe,
     but the air column determines the pitch.  In a wind chime, the pipe
     itself is being struck and the air column has little to do with things
     (especially if the pipe is a solid cylinder!).

     Generally you will need to cut by trial and error, using a piano or
     some other reference if you want to get close.  You can also do it
     by ear if you're either good or tolerant.  But we can help you get close.

     If a chime is cut in half, the new tone will be *four* times the
     frequency, or two octaves up in pitch.  To progress from one standard
     musical note to the next, each note is different in frequency by the
     twelfth root of 2, or about 1.059463.  For chimes, we need the square
     root of this number, which is about 1.0293.  In other words, if our
     "reference" chime is 1 foot long, the next lower note in the
     equal-tempered scale would be 1.0293 feet or 1 foot and .3516 inches or
     close to 1 foot, 23/64 inches.  Many people can detect notes out of tune
     (relative to another) by a few percent of one note.  So, cutting the
     chimes to proper length is important.

     One formula was presented in a book, "Music, Physics and Engineering"
     by Olsen, for a tube, free at both ends:

         f=1.133 pi K v / (l^2)

         K=sqrt(a^2 + ai^2) / 2 
         {radius of gyration of a hollow circular cylinder}

     Here pi=3.14159..., f is frequency (in Hz), l is length (in cm) and v is
     the velocity of sound in the material of the tube wall (eg Aluminium is
     5.1E5 cm/s).  Note that K is different for different cross-sections
     (I think it is K=a/2 for a solid circular bar). a and ai are the outer
     and inner radius of the tube (in cm). 

     See also "Basic Acoustics" by Donald E. Hall, Harper & Row, NY, 1987.
     This book points out that for two bars being identical except in their
     lengths, their frequencies are related as:

             f1 / f2  =  (L1 / L2)^2

     There are several different musical scales to choose from.  In the Western
     world, scales revolve around 12 equally spaced tones (equal tempered) but
     most music uses only 8 of the twelve.  Which 8?  This determines whether
     the scale is "major" or "minor" (or one of several less common scales).
     Another scale for wind chimes is the pentatonic scale (5 tones) used by
     eastern music.  The advantage here is that no combination of pentatonic
     notes is considered dissonant (displeasing).

     Construction details:  The chimes and clapper should be spaced so the
     clapper will hit either one chime, or two chimes, and no more.  The order
     of the chimes is important for two reasons:  It helps keep the weights
     distributed so the whole thing does not tilt, and it ensures that any
     pair of chimes will sound nice when struck together.

     OK, so much for the theory.  Let's take a look at suggested lengths,
     courtesy of Howard:

       16 7/8, 17 3/8, 18 7/16, 19 1/2, 20 3/4, 21 3/8, 22 3/4, 224 1/8.
       Eight chimes.  Viewed from the top, he shows a hanging order starting
       at the 12:00 position of chime 1, 5, 2, 6, 3, 7, 4, and 8.  For 1/2"
       OD tubing with a 2-inch clapper, the chimes are placed on a 4.5-inch
       diameter.  These lengths are close to theory for a major chord, but
       rounded to the nearest 16th.

       16 5/8, 17 5/8, 19 1/4, 20 7/16, 21 5/8, 23 3/4.
       This is a six-chimer, hung with the same spacing as the one above
       but leaving two gaps: (blank), 1, 4, 2, (blank), 5, 3, and 6.

     Another consideration is how/where to hang each chime.  It has been
     reported that hanging them .2242xlength from the end works well because
     this is a node point of the fundamental frequency (in other words, it
     wiggles less there!).  If you hang them using nylon fishing line be
     certain to deburr the hole and smooth it, and don't place anything
     valuable under it (like a glass table)!.  Also note the actual distance
     varies for each chime.

     On the topic of materials, soft metals such as copper will generate "soft"
     tones, like hitting a bottle with a rubber mallet.  Hard metals like
     steels or certain aluminum alloys giver a sharper tone, like hitting a
     bottle with a ball peen hammer (not including breakage).  Sharper tones
     seem to be common on very small chimes (a few inches to maybe 6 inches)
     which also seem to use solid rods. Softer tones are common on large ones
     (a foot or more).  Also, larger OD is supposed to yield softer tones
     and longer-lasting tones.

     Cutting the chimes requires some thought, especially if you make a few
     hundred.  Some suggest a chop saw with an abrasive blade, to get a better
     finish than you'd achieve with a toothed blade.  Remember that aluminum
     dust is flammable and burns very hot, so don't let it accumulate.  Use
     a blade that is compatible with what you're cutting.

     Some people like to use electrical conduit for the chimes.  Other suggest
     seamless "chro-mo" 4130 bicycle frame tubing, while copper water pipe also
     seems useful.  Possibly plugging one end or both will alter the sound but
     I'm not sure how at this point.


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:15 EDT 1996
Article: 32180 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 10 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101619.24435@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:19 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 10
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:19 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 699

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 10 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

99.  Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers.

     Note also that a potential source of manufacturers/suppliers is the
     Thomas Register, found in most public libraries, or now on-line:

         http://www.thomasregister.com/


 --  Special entry:  Not a company or anything, but for more info on
     crafts supplies, send e-mail to info@crafts-council.pe.ca
     and put "WANTED:" at the beginning of the subject line.  This is
     a non-profit service of PEI Crafts Council in Charlottetown,
     Price Edward Island, Canada.  They maintain a list of crafts
     suppliers and can answer questions like "give me a list of ceramics
     suppliers East of the Mississippi" or "who sells ConeArt kilns?"
     (per a post 9-Nov-1993)

   -  ah-ha! Design Group, Inc.
      Box 14519
      Minneapolis, MN 55414
      (800) 473-7650, (612) 641-1797, (612) 641-8681 (FAX)
      e-mail ahha@gdic.com

      In the UK, distributed by Eagland Machine Tool, 01420-23830, fax 23804.

      CNC conversion kits for large and small machines.  Free catalog.

   -  Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Company
      Fullerton, CA
      (800) 824-1930

      400-page catalog costs $5, but they pay $4.10 to mail it to you
      (at 1994 postage rates).  Airplane kits (real ones), as well as
      parts and raw material such as aluminum stock, composites, epoxies,
      foam, and spruce.  This is not as complete or as universal as
      McMaster-Carr, but it has a number of things you won't find elsewhere.

   -  Alley Supply Company
      P.O. Box 848
      Gardnerville, NV 89410
      (702) 782-3800

      Deals in Jet lathes and accessories.

   -  Allied Devices Corporation
      2365 Milburn Ave
      P.O. Box 502
      Baldwin, New York 11510
      (516) 223-9100, (516) 223-9172 (FAX)

      "Standard Precision Mechanical Components" such as small gears.
      Reputedly not cheap, but Small Parts Inc isn't either.

   -  American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWI)
      P.O. Box 11011
      Cincinnati, OH 45211
      (513) 661-3838, (513) 661-3131 (FAX)

      Membership is around $45 or so per year.  They have an excellent
      magazine, Horological Times.  Their orientation is more towards
      watch/clock repair.  They offer many courses along those lines.
      The "Project Extended" courses are given in Cincinnati, but they
      have many other courses (around 5 days) given around the country.
      They have at least 100 videotapes on various aspects of lathe work
      and clock repair.

   -  Jim Anderson
      1642 Hillridge
      Ann Arbor MI 48103

      There were a few Craftsman lathes that were apparently *not* made by
      Clausing or their predecessors, called AA Products.  Jim has a
      catalog of sorts; send an 8 1/2 x 11 self-addressed-stamped-envelope
      with 2 stamps.   Include the model number in the request and he will
      send a copy of the manual, a list of customers, and a list of parts
      sources.

   -  ARE, Inc.
      Box 8
      Greensboro Bend, VT 05842
      (800)736-4273, (802)533-7007, (802)533-7008 fax

      Tools for jewelry-making, perhaps more.  Catalog is $4.

   -  Argus Books
      P.O. Box 35 Wolsey House
      Wolsey Road, Hemel Hempstead
      Herts HP2 4SS England
      Telephone: Hemel Hempstead (0442)66551

      Former publishers of Model Engineer, in England.  ME is now published
      by a sister company, Nexus.  However, Argus still has interesting books
      that are described elsewhere in this FAQ, and may still be a source
      for back issues of ME.

      The US distributor for some of the Argus/Nexus publications is:
            Wise Owl Worldwide Services
            4314 West 238th Street
            Torrance, CA 90505-4509
            (310) 375-6258, (310) 375-0548 (FAX)
 
   -  Armstrong Tool & Supply Co, Inc.
      31747 W Eight Mile
      Livonia, MI 48152
      (800) 446-9694

      Full range of hand tools & Sherline Products. Catalog $2.00

   -  Bailey Craftsman Supply
      P.O. Box 276
      Fulton, MO 65251-0276
      (314) 642-5998

      Shop videos, Books, EMCO Maier & Sherline Products

   -  W.M. Berg, Inc.
      499 Ocean Avenue
      East Rockaway, NY 11518
      (516) 596-1700, (516) 599-3274 (FAX), (516) 599-5010 customer service

      Very similar to Stock Drive Products (q.v.).  Separate catalogs for
      metric vs. english parts.  They undoubtedly have a few items that
      Stock Drive does not carry, and vice-versa.

   -  Blades & Stuff
      1019 E. Palmer Ave.
      Glendale, CA 91205 

      Catalog $5

   -  Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools, Inc.
      PO Box 536
      2806 Putnam Avenue
      Hurricane, WV  25516
      800-872-6500, (304) 562-3538 in WV, (304) 562-5311 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $200
      M,W,F 9-5 EST, Tu,Th 9-9 EST

      Lathes, milling machines, presses, brakes, from puny to industrial.
      Accessories and parts for popular machines from Myford, South Bend,
      Atlas, Sherline, Emco-Maier, etc.
      Hand tools and books of interest to hobbyists and professionals.
      Woodworking power tools
      Steel, brass, aluminum, tool steel in small quantities.

      110 page free catalog

   -  J. C. Boegeman
      1464 S. Warner Dr.
      Apache Junction, AZ  85220
      (602) 982-8436

      Discontinued parts for Atlas, Craftsman, Clausing lathes.
      Quadrants, reverse gear boxes, lead screws, half-nuts,
      spindles, steady rests, and so on.  No catalog, so call.

   -  Borel and Frei
      712 S. Olive St., Suite 318
      Los Angeles, CA 90014
      (800)654-9591 (national), (800)252-9392 (CA), (213)689-7007,
      (213)488-0485 fax

      They also have a Kansas City office:

      Jules Tools (Jules Borel & Co.)
      1110 Grand Ave.
      Kansas City, MO 64106
      (800)776-6858 orders, (800)776-6865 customer service, (816)421-6110,
      (800)776-6862 fax

      Jewelers' tools: main 172-page catalog "T" is color, slick paper,
      no prices (separate price list is enclosed).  Also catalog "J" for
      jewelry, "H" for horological (watchmaking) supplies, and "F" of
      jewelry findings.  Specialty tool catalog "T<year>S" is 50 pages
      B&W and does have prices.

   -  Boston Gear
      14 Hayward St.
      Quincy Ma. 02171
      (617) 328-3300

      They have nearly any gear iminaginable,  IN STOCK.  Their prices
      are lower than you might imagine, and delivery is good.

   -  Bourget Bros.
      Lapidary and Jeweler's Supplies
      1636 11th St.
      Santa Monica, CA 90404
      (800)828-3024

   -  Brownells
      Route 2 Box 1
      200 South Front Street
      Montezuma, Iowa, 50171
      (515) 623-5401, (515) 623-3896 (FAX)

      Brownells is a fine firm that specializes in gunsmithing, though
      a lot of their merchandise is great for general-purpose metalworking,
      such as steel, brass, and nickel silver.
      Catalog is $4.00, refundable with first order of $40 or more
      (but if you can convince them you are a dealer, then it is free).
      They have lower prices for gun dealers, "enciphered" in the catalog
      in a manner similar to the following --
         Item: Foo Bar Grips    an9xx20dd      Price: $19.95
      means list price is $19.95, dealer price is $9.20.  However, in
      recent catalogs they have changed the coding on some items.
      While some people have apparently convinced them they are a dealer,
      the usual requirement seems to be an FFL (Federal Firearms License)
      before they sell for the dealer price.

   -  Bryant Laboratory
      1101 Fifth St.
      Berkeley, CA 94710
      (510) 526-3141, (800) 367-3141

      They sell chemicals used in patination, and have recipes as well.

   -  Camden Miniature Steam Services
      Barrow Farm
      Rode
      Bath BA3 6PS
      U.K.
      Tel: (44) 01373 850151
      Fax: (44) 01373 850516   (drop the first zero if outside the UK)

      Have a 56-page list of their books and videos (British PAL 625/50hz)
      available at no cost.  Engineering books and videos; rail, road and
      sea transportation from the USA, UK and France; mining, wireless and
      electrical subjects etc.

   -  Campbell Tools, Inc.
      2100-H Selma Rd.
      Springfield, OH 45505
      (513) 322-8562

      A machine supplier attuned to the hobbyist metalworker.  They carry
      Sherline, Emco, Jet, and other machines.  Also books, hardware,
      raw materials, etc.  Highly recommended by one net reader.  Catalog
      is $1

   -  Cardinal Engineering Inc
      RR #1, Box 163
      Cameron, IL 61423
      (309) 342-7474, (309) 342-3182 (FAX)

      Supplier of various metals, but they also can supply CNC mills
      and/or kits to convert existing milling machines.  Also some CNC
      lathe work.  Several articles in recent years in HSM regarding
      CNC conversions were written by the folks at Cardinal.  Catalog
      is $2.  Also some books, and plans from a company called Wood-Met.

   -  Castings
      PO Box 915001
      Longwood, FL 32791
      (407) 869-6565

      Equipment and materials sized for chess pieces, etc., made in pewter.
      Probably other, related stuff as well.

   -  Caswell Electroplating in Miniature
      (315) 597-5140

      Reportedly has all kinds of small to medium plating supplies and is
      very helpful.

   -  Centaur Forge Ltd.
      P.O. Box 340
      117 N. Spring Street
      Burlington, WI  53105-0340
      (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX)

      Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all aspects of
      metalworking are covered.  A good, well-organized collection.
      They also publish a magazine, Anvil.

      Centaur Forge is the source for blacksmithing supplies from tongs to
      furnaces.  Also a source of horse shoeing supplies.

   -  Century Spring Corporation
      800-237-5225, (213) 749-3802 (FAX)

      A Los Angeles company, they sell a wide range of both extension and
      compression springs, and also some more specialized
      springs like disk springs and rubber-tube springs.  Their catalog is
      free and lists springs sorted by diameter, length, wire diameter,and
      material, and list number of coils, solid height, and calculated spring
      rate.

      The catalog does not include prices, but prices are reasonable, but
      there is a $25 minimum order.

   -  Clausing Industrial Inc.
      Service Center
      P.O. Box 877
      Goshen, Indiana 46527-0877
      (219) 533-0371, (219) 533-0403 (FAX)

      Long ago, Sears sold Craftsman lathes that are still popular.
      These were actually made by Atlas, which was later bought by
      Clausing.  Clausing apparently still has parts and manuals for
      the Craftsman/Atlas lathes, and will provide a free catalog.

   -  Coles Power Models, Inc
      P.O. Box 788
      839 E. Front Street
      Ventura, CA  93002
      (805) 643-7065

      Castings, books, supplies, accessories.  For trains,
      stationary steam, gasoline engines.  The catalog costs $4.

   -  T. E. Conklin Brass & Copper Co.
      345 Hudson St.
      NY. NY 10014
      800-225-5510

      They have every size of hex brass in 12' lengths from 1/8" to 7/16"
      by 1/32" increments, and then it goes up to 3" hex by 1/16" with some
      odd sizes thrown in such as 23/32.  They got it in round, square, flat,
      gauge, strip, dimension plate, wire, rectangular rod, pipe, round tube,
      square tube, rectangular tube, angle, channel.  They state that small
      orders are important.
 
      This is not only brass, but bronze, copper, monel, muntz, nickel silver,
      etc., in several alloys.  I would doubt they have every alloy in every
      size.  Ask for the Conklin Index.  For locals the phone is 212-691-5100.

      (however, it is reported that a minimum first order is $100, and
      subsequently $50)

   -  Condar Co.
      10500 Industrial Drive
      Garrettsville, OH 44231
      (216) 527-4343

      They sell a pyrometer (high-temp thermometer) for gas forges and such,
      Unit 9-85 which comes with a 6-foot 2200-degree probe for $60.  They
      also have a high temp probe (3000 degrees; Unit 14S4-1, $17).  Probably
      lots of other related items, but this came up in discussion on
      low-cost pyrometers around 3/25/93.

   -  Conquest Industries
      Santa Fe Springs, CA.
      (310) 906-1111, (310) 906-1112 (FAX)

      Apparently casting supplies.  They have a free video tape and info
      packet on casting metal in rubber molds.  The rubber can take heat up
      to 840F for zinc alloys.

   -  Cowell's Small Machine Tools Ltd
      The Manor Workshop
      Church Road
      Little Bentley
      Colchester
      Essex
      CO7 8SE
      UK
      tel +44 1206 251792

      Cowells sells two main products: a small lathe (88mm swing,
      200mm between centers) and a small milling machine (200mm by 50mm
      bed).  Also vertical blade jig-saws.  Somewhat similar to Sherlines,
      these are described as being a bit better in quality and considerably
      more powerful.  Cost is roughly double that of a Sherline.
      Their USA connection:

      Cowells USA
      Post Office Box 843
      Richmond, KY 40476-0843
      (606) 624-9269, (606) 625-1191 (FAX)

      There is also a book, "Cowells 90 Lathe" by A. Smith.

   -  Craft Books
      4 Maple Street
      Chester, CT 06412
      (203) 526-9887

      At the very least, books on patinizing such as The Coloring, Bronzing
      and Patinization of Metals.

   -  Cyberlabs: see US Cyberlabs

   -  Dalmar
      (941) 275-6540, (941) 275-1731 (FAX)
      http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html
      dalmar@peganet.com

      Manufacturer of electroplating equipment.

   -  Darex Corporation
      220 Hersey Street
      Box 277
      Ashland, OR  97520
      (503) 488-2224, (503) 488-2229 (FAX)
      http://www.darex.com

      Precision drill and end-mill sharpening equipment.  Some of their
      complete systems are very expensive and intended for large
      production shops (around $2000).  They also sell fixtures for use
      with existing grinders (about $250) and sharpeners for taps, reamers,
      and countersinks.

   -  Diamond Pacific Tool Corporation
      25647 West Mail Street
      Barstow, CA  92311-9702
      (800) 253-2954, (619) 255-1030

      A complete selection of diamond cutting bits, saws, powders and
      compounds.  Free catalog.

   -  Dillsburg Aeroplane Works
      (717) 432-4589

      Source for aluminum, steel, tubing, bar, sheets, etc.
      Advertises that they supply: machine shop, race car, airplane building,
      etc.  These people are nice and helpful.  They have shipped orders
      same day with no errors.

   -  Eastwood Company
      (800) 345-1178

      Metal fabrication equipment, welding supplies, etc.  Reportedly,
      the prices are rather high.

   -  EMCO Maier (Consumer Products Division)
      2757 Scioto Parkway
      Columbus, OH 43221-2134
      (800) 521-8289, (614) 771-5990 FAX

      Makers (importer?) of the Unimat and Unimat PC lathes, small mills,
      and such.  They will/do sell direct, you can get a discount (5-15%)
      by dealing with Campbell or Blue Ridge on a package.  Good customer
      service and parts department.

   -  Enco Manufacturing Co.
      13 stocking locations, main site in Chicago, IL (addresses not handy now)
      800-860-3400 (24 hr orders, automatically routes to closest location)
      800-860-3500 (fax, also auto routes)
      Credit cards, COD's up to $500, discount for pre-pay by check
      $25 minimum order
      Customer service & Chicago showroom M-F 7-midnight CST,
      Sa 8-4 CST, Su 9-4 CST

      Lathes, milling machines, etc, from small to large NC machines.
      Hand tools, cutting tools, storage cabinets, shop supplies
      Maker (not just distributer) of turret bed lathes.

      However, many net folks have reported that quality and service are
      between awful and terrible (this author included), and that Enco should
      be avoided.  This is not a unanimous opinion, but close.

      230 page catalog (as of 1994)

   -  Far West Materials
      405 Woodland Ave.
      Walla Walla, WA 99362
      (509) 522-0556, (509) 525-7326 (FAX)
      http://ns.bmi.net/farwest, e-mail farwest@bmi.net

      "Specializing in Foundry, Sculpture, & Molding materials"

   -  Gateway Clocks
      7936 Camberly Drive
      Powell, TN  37849

      Gateway Clocks is apparently a one-man business, in the person
      of W. R. Smith, author of several clockmaking books and one on
      clockmaking and model-making (see earlier section in the FAQ).
      Gateway also sells all of John Wilding's books, and John Wilding
      (in England) sells all of Smith's books, through a reciprocal
      agreement.

   -  General Factory Supplies Co., Inc.
      Cincinnati, Ohio
      Dayton, Ohio
      http://www.virtual-adventures.com/gfs/

      A stocking wholesale distributor of industrial
      supplies.  No experience with them.

   -  Gesswein
      255 Hancock Ave.
      Bridgeport, CT 06605
      (800)243-4466, (203)366-5400, (203)366-3953 fax
      e-mail: gessweinco@aol.com

      Jewelry-making tools, perhaps more.  On the 800 number, there is
      a voice mail system, and if you just want a catalog you have to
      wait for the last prompt when they let you speak for a longer period
      without being cut off.

   -  Glendo Corporation
      900 Overlander Road
      P.O. Box 1153
      Emporia, KS 66801
      (800) 835-3519, (316) 343-1084, (316) 343-9640 (FAX)

      Their Accu-Finish line of "advanced sharpening equipment"
      includes grinders and fixtures for lathe cutting bits and
      similar tools.  Also, most affordable for the home shop,
      the Grind-R-Table for use with existing grinders.  They often
      run ads in the magazines, or you can call for information.

   -  Grainger
      http://www.grainger.com
      feedback@grainger.com

      Wholesale supplier of industrial and commercial equipment and
      supplies, with branches in all 50 states of the USA, and Puerto
      Rico.  Their web site includes a "terms of access" page that had
      to be written by a team of lawyers working overtime!

   -  Grand Tool Supply Corp.
      U.S. Highway 46 & Huyler St.
      Teterboro, NJ 07608
      (800) 922-0512, (201) 288-7090 FAX

      "80,000 inch/metric cutting tools, measuring instruments & equipment
      for the machine shop."  $50 min/order, free catalog.

   -  Griegers
      Pasadena, CA
      (800) 423-4181

      Lost wax casting supplies for jewelry making.  Silver solder and
      flux, gold solder, nickel silver, etc.  Free catalog on request.
      Apparently not what you'd call low prices, but they do have a good
      selection.

   -  Grizzly Imports, Inc.

      West of Mississippi:
      P.O. Box 2069
      Bellingham, WA 98227
      (800) 541-5537, (800) 225-0021 (FAX)

      East of Mississippi:
      2406 Reach Road
      Williamsport, PA 17701
      (800) 523-4777, (800) 438-5901 (FAX)

      Imports a wide range of power tools and accessories.  Metal lathes,
      milling machines, as well as lots of woodworking tools.  They also
      sell a belt sander called the "Knife Belt Sander/Buffer."  Among
      the importers of Taiwan-made tools, Grizzly seems to rank fairly
      well compared with Enco or Harbor Freight, though some consider Jet
      to be a bit better (at higher cost).

   -  H & H Foundry Machine Company 
      PO Box 605
      Manor, PA   15665
      (412) 863-3251

      They will accept small one-off cast iron jobs (and probably other
      work as well, just don't know their full scope).  They seem to do good
      work and are reasonably priced, according to D. E. Johnson who wrote
      an article in HSM about building a hefty milling machine attachment
      for a lathe.  The pattern for that project is "on file" with them
      and can be requested.

   -  Harbor Freight Tools
      3491 Mission Oaks Blvd.
      Camarillo, CA  93011-6010
      800 423 2567

      They mostly sell cheap tools.  Usually cheap = inexpensive, sometimes
      cheap = junky.  All (or most all) imported.  They are best for items
      which have a lot of metal in them and for which fine/precision is not
      your main objective.  They have really great buys on anvils, cold chisel
      sets, screwdriver sets, tinsnips, crowbars, ... and free shipping (other
      than a $2.95 handling fee) for orders over $50.

   -  Neil Hemingway
      30 Links View
      Half Acre
      Rochdale
      Lancashire OL11 4DD
      England
      +44 01706 45404
      http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/hemingway/index.html

      Neil has many lathe accessories and kits, many for Myford lathes, and
      George Thomas kits from Model Engineering.  You might enclose a couple
      of international reply coupons when asking him for a catalog.

   -  M. B. Herman
      9308 N.W. 60th Street
      Tamarac, FL  33321
      (305) 722-0061

      Mentioned as another source of parts for Craftsman/Atlas lathes.

   -  High Quality Tools, Inc.
      1327 E. 289th St.
      Wickliffe, OH  44092
      (216) 944-0144, (216) 585-2265 (FAX)

      Replacement parts for Bridgeport milling machines.  Reputedly the
      quality is excellent.  They have a catalog with exploded views
      of all assemblies.  Cheaper than Bridgeport.  See also Lee's and
      J.R. Machine.

   -  Hobby Hangar
      1862 Petersburg Road
      P.O. Box 417
      Hebron, Kentucky 41048
      (606) 334-4331, (606) 334-4333 (FAX)
      http://www.cforc.com/hangar/

      "Serving All Your Hobby Needs."  Also "The exclusive United States
      importer of Minicraft Precision Power Tools."

   -  Industrial Pipe and Steel Co.
      9936 E. Rush Street
      South El Monte, CA  91733
      800-423-4981, 818-443-9467, 818-579-4602 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      M-F 7:30-4:30 PST, Sa 7:30-1 PST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, lathes, milling machines, you
      name it.  Shop supplies, tool and die maker supplies, you name it.
      Metal of all sorts, you name it.  New and used press die sets.
      Surplus rounds and plates.  Buy by the foot, buy by the pound.
      Most of their metal stock is not listed in the catalog(s).
      Call and ask what they've got.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbyists.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers,
      Starrett, Mitutoyo, etc.  Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals,
      garbage-at-any-price import.

      Small catalog several times a year, 200 page catalog once or
      twice a year, and a 750 page full-line catalog once every five
      years.  They came out with a full-line catalog in 92.  Get one if
      you can.

   -  ISCAR
      http://www.iscar.com

      ISCAR manufactures metal cutting tools for industry.  "Iscar is a
      full-source supplier producing a complete range of innovative turning,
      milling and drilling tool lines. Its cutting inserts are composed of
      advanced, proprietary cutting materials including coated and uncoated
      carbides, cermets, silicon nitrides, sub-micron compositions, and CVD
      and PVD (chemical and physical vapor deposition) layers."

      I don't believe ISCAR sells retail, but instead are carried by
      distributors such as MSC and others (see web pages).

   -  Jax Chemical
      (718) 347-0057

      Patina solutions and chemicals. Available from some jewelry supply
      houses.

   -  Jet Equipment & Tools
      http://www.wolfenet.com/~jet/
      jet@wolfenet.com

      Jet sells lathes, milling machines, etcetera.  Usually they do not
      sell directly to a customer, preferring to go through distributors
      such as Alley Supply, Campbell Tools, and others.  Their home page
      includes a list of distributors.  The general consensus suggests Jet
      is somewhat higher in quality and price than Grizzley's products.

   -  Johnson Atelier Sculpture/Casting Supplies
      50 Princeton-Hightstown Road
      Suite L
      Princeton Junction, NJ 08550
      (800) 732-7203 (orders or technical assistance), (609) 936-7206 (FAX)
       
      Aimed at the metalcaster and sculptor.  Clays, modeling tools,
      shellcasting kits, plasters, various kits for making life casts, waxes,
      pyrometers, sandcasting/foundry tools, foundry metal ingots/plate/rod
      (SiBronze, 85-5-5-5, aluminum, copper), patina solutions and raw
      chemicals to make your own, safety equipment, etc.  Looks like they
      target the school foundry and small art studio market.

   -  Lee's Machinery
      4089 N. Ridge Road
      Perry OH 44081
      (216) 259-2222

      Bridgeport and South Bend parts, new and used.  The owner, Lee Zinn,
      does used machinery rebuilding of all kinds and has many new and
      used parts and accessories (chucks etc.).  Will also make parts if
      unavailable, or parts that are better than original if needed
      (e.g. South Bend back gears like to break).  See also High Quality Tools
      and J.R. Machine.

(continued in next part)


From felice@pioneer.net Sat Aug  3 11:28:16 EDT 1996
Article: 32181 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!nntp.coast.net!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip54.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: first three holtzapffel volumes
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 16:26:37 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <felice.159.3200DABD@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip54.pioneer.net
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Looking to buy any or all of the first three volumes of Holtzapffel,
for less than the price Lindsay charges ($30+ each) If you have them
and don't need them, I'll put them to good use!


From chameleo@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:17 EDT 1996
Article: 32182 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!news.bc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: chameleo@ix.netcom.com(Charles Harrison )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Newbie needs advice on mill choice for model airplanes, etc.
Date: 29 Jul 1996 04:55:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <4thg8d$cdj@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sfo-ca12-05.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Jul 28  9:55:41 PM PDT 1996

Hi all,

I just discovered this group through Home Shop Machinist and I was
hoping someone could give me some guidance. I am interested in doing
numerically controlled milling (if its called something else please let
me know). I would like to make fuselages, wings, etc., for model
airplanes that will be suitable positives for eventual resin casting. 

I currently have a 120MHz Pentium machine, 16MB RAM, 14" monitor.

Can anyone please answer the followinbg questions for me:

1. What is the software of choice? Do I have to bite the bullet and buy
autoCAD or is something else (preferably less expensive) going to be
able to give me the results I want?

2. How much RAM will I need for this application (I hate waiting around
for screens to scroll, etc.)? Also should I totally populate my level
two cache?

3. Will I need a big monitor? If so, how big?

4. What milling equipment should I be considering? It seems that
Sherline finds use in this area. Do they make the accessories I'll need
for this, or will I have to go aftermarket? If so, who makes the best
package?

Thanks a lot, and I hope to be speaking with you all as I grow in this
hobby, long a dream of mine!


Chip



From jhrisoulas@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:18 EDT 1996
Article: 32183 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Didymium Glasses
Date: 2 Aug 1996 11:35:20 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4tt77o$46u@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <darylb-0108961744230001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
Reply-To: jhrisoulas@aol.com (JHrisoulas)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

If you think that the dydidium glasses filter out the IR and UV rays as
well as the sodium flare, they DO NOT!  I was told years ago (as well as
many others) that they do..They DO NOT..

You will need a gold coating (yes real gold) to do this.  I alomst had
serious damage to my eyes from these glasses..thinking that I was safe!

Gold layered glasses are available....THey are EXPENSIVE but then again,
at price do you place your vision???

Dr JP Hrisoulas
Bladesmith, Metallographer, Lecturer, Author.


From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:28:19 EDT 1996
Article: 32184 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Subject: Re: Steam Engines: Wooden lag O-Rings?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.reneable
Date: 28 Jul 1996 21:51:07 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 11
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <4thfvr$c02@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <4t9nuo$vum@news.chatlink.com> <4tc5eg$cf6@acme.sb.west.net> <1YvVvDA2zq+xEwKl@abdab.demon.co.uk>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

Charles Lamont (Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: 1) Sorry Ed, you have it wrong this time.  It is the insulation layer,
: whatever it is composed of, that is called lagging, not the covering
: over it. 
	*Sigh*! The truth is out: I'm an amateur! ;-)
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	...Looking forward to: 	
	COMING SOON		:	the Great Delta Steamboat Meet!!
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From grant@cdac.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:20 EDT 1996
Article: 32185 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!in-news.erinet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!nntp04.primenet.com!news.shkoo.com!nntp.primenet.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!news.uoregon.edu!news.u.washington.edu!uw-beaver!uw-coco!nwnews.wa.com!nwfocus.wa.com!ole!news
From: grant@cdac.com (Grant Erwin)
Subject: Plans/parts for speed control of 90V PM DC motor
Message-ID: <1996Jul29.050334.24742@ole.cdac.com>
Sender: news@ole.cdac.com (Usenet News)
Organization: Cascade Design Automation, Bellevue, WA
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 05:03:34 GMT
Lines: 35

I have been following the recent threads on DC motor control
with some interest. I also saw the recent article in HSM on
building a speed controller for a permanent-magnet DC motor
such as that found on electric lawn mowers.

Here is my question: can anyone point me at a set of plans
for a speed controller circuit that includes part numbers
and sources for the SCR's? I don't know about you, but I
don't have a source for SCR's that are hefty enough to do
motor control.

FYI, I have a 90V 3/4hp PM motor off of a Black and Decker
power mower. Incidentally, if you like me read the HSM
article and are thinking of modifying a machine to be
speed-controllable with one of those exact motors, be 
aware that those motors are designed to be used with the
shaft straight down, and to be hand-oiled from the top
occasionally. If you mounted one with the shaft pointing
up, the bearing will dry out and fail rapidly, IMHO.

On a related issue, I once bought a dozen huge SCR's, 
thinking of making a solid-state phase converter. I never
did anything with them, and am now older and wiser. If
anyone is interested in them (rated at hundreds of amps and
hundreds of volts) please let me know. I don't know anything
about them except that they were removed from a machine
in a logging camp in Oregon as the lumber industry was 
uh, retracting there.

Well, thanks.

Grant Erwin                     | Senior Member, Technical Staff
Cascade Design Automation Corp. | Internet:  grant@cdac.com
3650 131st Ave SE, Suite 650    | TEL:       (206)-649-7613
Bellevue, WA  98006             | FAX:       (206)-649-7600


From hollen@vigra.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:22 EDT 1996
Article: 32186 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news6.agis.net!agis!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 16:07:51 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <ncwwzjw0iw.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
References: <4too75$ci8@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.254.9.2
In-Reply-To: billg63475@aol.com's message of 31 Jul 1996 18:54:29 -0400
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1

>>>>> "Bill" == BILLG63475  <billg63475@aol.com> writes:

Bill> I compiled a sample of the posts generated in what was threaded rods
Bill> thread and sent it to McMaster directly, here is there response:

Bill> Thank you very much for your concerned note relative to
Bill> McMaster-Carr's catalog distribution.  Our supply is in fact
Bill> limited but we would be glad to fax or mail pages of specific
Bill> items that may be of interest to any of your correspondents.

Also, while it is near impossible to get a McMaster Carr catalog
unless you are 1) a business and 2) do $1000's a year business with
them, they *are* very helpful on the phone.  If you tell them what you
are looking for, they will go to great lengths to use the catalog to
find exactly what you want if they have it.  

They have no problems with selling small quantities to individuals and
taking credit card payment.  Their service is excellent.  

While you may not be able to get a copy of their catalog, don't write
them off as a source.

dion
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:23 EDT 1996
Article: 32187 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!noos.hooked.net!news.scruz.net!usenet
From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Heat Hardening Sterling Silver Knife?
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:58:07 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <31FC44DF.5C64@scruznet.com>
References: <31F911F5.2A7C@fas.harvard.edu>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; U)
To: keirst@fas.harvard.edu

Unfortunately, you're going the wrong way. Non-ferrous metals, copper, 
silver, etc. soften and anneal under heat. Trying to heat treat silver 
in an juxtaposition of incompatable terms. It is possible to work harden 
silver or copper by hammering on it. This can be done with a planishing 
hammer and relatively light strokes.

Lee Marshall


From us030097@interramp.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:24 EDT 1996
Article: 32188 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!psinntp!psinntp!interramp.com!ip114.san-bernadino.ca.interramp.com!user
From: us030097@interramp.com (Douglas S Loar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Vernon Vertical Mill
Date: 2 Aug 1996 19:53:57 GMT
Organization: PSINet
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <us030097-0208961255540001@ip114.san-bernadino.ca.interramp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.12.89.114

 Has anybody ever heard of this machine? I'm looking for a source for
parts & tooling. The mill was made by Vernon Machinery Manufacturing Co.
Los Angeles Ca.


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:25 EDT 1996
Article: 32189 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dancad3D now available by FTP
Date: 2 Aug 1996 19:55:47 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <4ttmg3$fbu@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <tomgrant.577.0ABD1AC2@primenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny12-53.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Aug 02 12:55:47 PM PDT 1996

In <tomgrant.577.0ABD1AC2@primenet.com> tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom
Grant) writes: 
>
>
>
>  I have put Dancad3d ver.2.6 on our server for people to download.
>
>It can be found at :
>
>hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech

Could you double check the address. Seems to not exist when I FTp
there.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:26 EDT 1996
Article: 32190 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!aldehyde.netone.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: 1 Aug 1996 17:48:11 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <4tqqkr$pud@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <4too75$ci8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3200C362.59FD@ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <3200C362.59FD@ix.netcom.com> PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>BILLG63475 wrote:
>> 
>> I compiled a sample of the posts generated in what was threaded rods
>> thread and sent it to McMaster directly, here is there response:
>> 
>> 2>
>> 
>> Dear Bill G
>> 
>> Thanks for very much for your Bad Publicity! note. Our ignoring of
>> people is inexcusable and will change immediately.  This is not to say
>> that we
>> will  change our policy of limiting our catalog distribution, but will
>> answer
>> denied requests with a letter explaining that we do not have enough
>> catalogs  and prefer to do business with manufacturers. We will offer to
>> send
>> pages  of our catalog for products the requestor is interested in.
>> 
>>         Yours truly,
>>         Jay Delaney
>>         President
>>         McMaster-Carr Supply Co.

>Your sure got some response.  At least a NO is better than being
>completely ignored.  Nice to know someone at least knows that we exist.

I'll say!  I've sent in catalog requests on letterhead, used the
contact address on their web page, phoned, faxed, etc. and never
got anything in return.  

I know they have a big, expensive catalog, but compare their
response to places like MSC and Grainger.  A single request got
me two MSC catalogs within a week, and they're over 3,000 pages;
and clicking on the catalog request button on Grainger's web
page had a 3,500+ page catalog to my door in days.

Sure, I'm not a big manufacturer, but even a few thousand
dollars a year in sales ought to pay for a catalog once every
few years, shouldn't it?

--

 Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Sat Aug  3 11:28:27 EDT 1996
Article: 32191 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.unisys.com.br!rjo02.embratel.net.br!news
From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: 2 Aug 1996 10:54:04 GMT
Organization: Inside Information Systems
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4tsmoc$2gj@news.iis.com.br>
References: <DvE472.1MM.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rio-as3-tty01.iis.com.br
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>  
>  Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from Morton, or isn't
>  this company for real?
>  

yes, I did.
they answered my e-mail and I bought a lathe.
best regards

eduardo haddad filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br



From drewid@lanminds.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:28 EDT 1996
Article: 32192 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Charcoal Forge Flue enquiry
Date: 1 Aug 1996 18:27:02 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <4tqstm$34u@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <31F6BED5.4157@iap.net.au>
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Colin Morton <anvil@iap.net.au> wrote:
>I have a industrial charcoal forge,that needs to be flued. I am interested to 
>hear from other people with a charcoal  forge with regard to the dimensions 
>and a descriptionof their flueing system. And how they stop the soot- fly ash 
>from being blown up the chimney and setting fire to the neighborhood.
>I didnt understand how coke or coal forges didnt have a similar problem until 
>I saw my mates in Melbourne.There was  hardly any soot-fly ash at all.

[Perhaps you can switch from charcoal, which is always going to generate 
sparks, to clinker coal, which generates a gooey "clinker" instead. Or 
convert to natural or LP gas, which is the cleanest of all.]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From rvanzant@van.inc.net Sat Aug  3 11:28:29 EDT 1996
Article: 32193 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newspump.sol.net!news.inc.net!rvanzant
From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Brake
Date: 2 Aug 1996 19:09:13 GMT
Organization: Internet Connect, Inc. The Wisconsin ISP 414-476-4266 http://www.inc.net
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <slrn504klf.24j.rvanzant@van.inc.net>
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X-Newsreader: slrn (0.8.8.4 (BETA) UNIX)


    Any pointers to info on building a sheet metal brake?  I need to
make 10' lengths of angle aluminum, 1"x1"x.063" out of 2024 t3 aluminum,
radius of .250".  The results have to be of fairly high quality, ie no
tooling marks, gouges, etc, so a siding brake just won't do.

    BTW, consider this a plug for MSC (800 645 7270), regarding the
McC catalog debate.  Called MSC late Monday for a catalog, had it
Wednesday morning, all 3,356 pages worth.  I *will* be ordering
*something* from them, out of guilt if nothing else.

thanks,
rvz





From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:30 EDT 1996
Article: 32194 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!aux.stedwards.edu!admin.stedwards.edu!rays
From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 2 Aug 1996 19:04:10 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <4ttjfa$89u@aux.stedwards.edu>
References: <4ti720$a6c@suneng1.crosfield.co.uk> <31FF21C3.624A@mb.sympatico.ca> <4tpg7v$qub@buffnet2.buffnet.net> <darylb-0108961727580001@bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.214.144.2
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

darylb (darylb@bnr.ca) wrote:
: In article <4tpg7v$qub@buffnet2.buffnet.net>, krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt
: Rieder) wrote:
: > Hi... I'm back again... after starting this thread, I'm amazed at all
: > the ground that has been covered... but still not clear on what would 
: > be a simple solution to my problem.  Allow me to restate the question.
: > 
: > I want to run a 48 VDC PM motors from the house 110 VAC power.  I know
: > that I could use a variac or step down transformer, but either would
: > be bulkier, heavier, costlier than the motor.  I do know how to build 
: > a conventional SCR speed control for a DC motor.  This would give a
: > 120 Hz pulse rate, and delay of SCR turn-on would get rid of the lower
: > voltage part of the half wave and keep the high voltage peaks (after 
: > the SCR turns on) which would be close to 3X the motors voltage rating.
: > 
: > I see that Sherline uses a 90 VDC PM motor on their tools and that they 
: > can run the same tool on 110 OR 220 VAC by merely changing the plug that
: > goes into the wall socket for their export model.  What they do, seems to
: > be the answer to my problem.  How do they get rid of the extra voltage ?
: > I don't think we are talking about a switch mode power supply here.  But
: > if someone could look inside a Sherline box... it would be very helpfull.
: > Seems like if they can run a 90V motor on 220V, I should be able to run
: > a 48V motor on 110V ?  What do I need ?  Or can I just allow the SCR control
: > to limit motor current to a safe value and forget about voltage (keeping my
: > fingers crossed and hope that the armatur winding don't arc over). ???
: > I surely don't want to build a switch mode power supply.

: If I were doing this on the cheap I would use a dimmer to control the wall
: AC. That would be fed into a bridge followed by an inductor (say 1mH) and
: cap (say 6800uF).  Just be sure all parts including the dimmer can handle
: the current. Given the lack of transformer you might want a dimmer that
: starts from zero rather than pop on/off. This will (if started slowly)
: limit the surge current into your filter cap. The extra 20V shouldn't be
: deadly for a 90V motor and the savings of no transformer is large. 
: I did this for a 24VDC motor (I had to use a transformer) where I needed
: variable speed and smooth operation. It worked fine. Switched mode
: supplies (currently designing my first) are for high efficiency and
: compact size (switching power at 128,000Hz say, means much smaller
: transformers - smaller power/cycle) which you likely don't need.

: -- 
: Clouds are high flying fogs.

I would make sure to use the configuration abouve (without transforver)
only an a circuit protected by a GFI breaker or outlet.  


From vt@usa.pipeline.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:31 EDT 1996
Article: 32195 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vt@usa.pipeline.com(VT)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: information on steel
Date: 2 Aug 1996 19:26:50 GMT
Organization: PSINet/Pipeline USA
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:7982 rec.crafts.metalworking:32195 rec.knives:10706

On Aug 02, 1996 17:07:17 in article <Re: information on steel>,
'jeffryj@azstarnet.com (Jeffry  Johnston)' wrote: 
 
 
>What's the difference between L1 and 52100E? 
> 
>Alvin Johnston  <--Libertarian 
 
about 4 characters...... 
 
Seriously though, what steels do the razor blade manufacturers use - like
Gillette, Schick etc.   
 
I think they are fairly obviously STAINLESS steels.....? 
 
Another thing I have noticed inusing razor blades that they actually SHAVE
better after a few uses/days - more comfortable, better cutting/shaving
ability. 
 
Anyone with a plausible explanation about this? 
 
Can it be that razor blades start out by being just TOO sharp (I know there
is NO such thing as TOO sharp on rec.knives, but hey, I am sacreligious),
and are worn/blunted to optimum sharpness? 
 
What is optimium sharpness? 
-- 
Vincent 
vt@pipeline.com


From rnichols@interaccess.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:33 EDT 1996
Article: 32196 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!interaccess!omega-3.null.org!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 04:23:26 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
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References: <00001f0c+00002e11@msn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d166.w.interaccess.com

In article <00001f0c+00002e11@msn.com>,
Dawn Fleming <Morton_Machinery@msn.com> wrote:
:Our deal is still on for readers of rec.crafts.metalworking.  If you 
:are thinking of buying anything from Sherline, we are a dealer and 
:will offer you a 20% discount on all items, not including shipping, 
:handling and taxes.  We're doing this to better understand how 
:commerce works on the internet, and to keep in the spirit of the 
:original idea behind the net.
:
:--- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Company, Inc.
:Los Angeles, California
:Visit us at www.mortonmachinery.com

I'm trying my darndest to figure out how to order a Sherline mill and
associated accessories from Morton Machinery.  Their web page doesn't
give any clue about how to order (the Sherline page is "under
construction."), and my e-mail to <Morton_Machinery@msn.com> goes
unanswered.  If the folks at Morton Machinery are trying to learn "how
commerce works on the internet," someone should tell them that turning
out the lights and locking the door when a customer approaches is _not_
a particularly good way to start.

Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from Morton, or isn't
this company for real?

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:34 EDT 1996
Article: 32197 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 1 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101602.24426@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:02 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 1
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:03 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 825

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 1 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

The questions being answered in part 1:

0.  Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup?
1.  The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter.
2.  Network resources (other lists, vendors, etc.)
3.  What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking?

The questions being answered in part 2:

4.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?
5.  Where do I buy a machine?
6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?
7.  Where might one take classes or get instruction?
8.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?
9.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?
10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?
11. How do I harden/temper metal?

The questions being answered in part 3:

12  How do I wire up this strange motor?
13. How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
14. How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
15. Some safety reminders.
16. How do I drill round holes?
17. What's TIG and MIG?
18. MIG welding technique.

The questions being answered in part 4:

19. Which MIG welder should I buy?
20. Books on welding.
21. Soldering/brazing topics.
22. What are bolt grades?
23. What is XYZ made of?
24. How do I build a furnace or forge?

The questions being answered in part 5:

25. What is Damascus steel?
26. How do I repair/replace this old leather belt?
27. Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill?
28. What is involved in building a steam engine?
29. How do I anodize aluminum?

The questions being answered in part 6:

30. Rust!  How do I deal with rust?
31. Are there any machinery museums?

The questions being answered in part 7

32. How do I cut metal?
33. What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?
34. What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?
35. What is Electric Discharge Machining (EDM)?

The questions being answered in part 8

36. Solvent safety
37. What does "gage" (or "gauge") mean?
38. Leveling a lathe.
39. Wind Chimes

The questions being answered in part 9

40. Patinas
41. Removing broken taps
42. Machining Plastic

The question being answered in parts 10 and 11

99. Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers
    (OK, so I got tired of re-numbering it every time a new
    question was added!)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

0.  Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup?

    This FAQ is also available via anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu,
    in the METAL directory.  I also hope to someday get it posted to
    news.answers and into rtfm.mit.edu, which is where many groups'
    FAQs are kept.

    I also keep an "informal" archive of the newsgroup on plains.uwyo.edu,
    also in the METAL directory.  It's informal in that I only update it
    from time to time, not continuously.

    Plains.uwyo.edu is usually down early Sunday and Monday
    mornings, so if ftp fails then, just try it again later.

1.  The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter.

    A tiny bit of history:  there existed a group trial.rec.metalworking,
    but few sites pick up the "trial" feed.  Also, the trial method of
    group creation sort of died of neglect, so this group
    (rec.crafts.metalworking) was created to take its place and become
    an official wide-spread group.

    Charter
    -------

    Charter -- REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING

    The USENET newsgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking, is a newsgroup which
    discusses various aspects of working with metal, such as (but not
    limited to):

      machining, as on a lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc.;
      numerical control of such machines;
      welding, whether by gas, arc, mig, tig, thermite, or other methods;
      Metal joining, whether welding, brazing, soldering, riveting,
        screwing, folding, etc.  (this section was added during the discussion)
      casting various metals by various methods;
      hardening/tempering various metals;
      blacksmithing/forging;
      spinning and hammer work;
      sheet metal work;
      jewelry-making;
      purchasing and/or reconditioning metalworking tools and machinery;
      interesting projects;
      books on metal technologies and history;

    Example areas of interest:

      knife/sword making;
      automotive repair;
      steam engine (model/scale, though full-sized discussions are welcome!);
      art work, such as bronze castings and sculptures;
      gunsmithing;
      toolmaking, such as for woodworking, further metalworking, etc.;

    While the bulk of the discussion will probably be directed towards
    small-scale "home" shops, industrial/production discussions are also
    quite welcome.


2.  Network resources (other lists, vendors, etc.)

    There are several other metalworking-related resources on the Internet,
    such as mailing lists and WWW pages. Here are a few we are aware of.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    So the first one I list isn't even metalworking related!
    A handy reference available in most libraries is the Thomas Register,
    which lists many manufacturers and sellers of "stuff".
    They currently have an on-line presence on the World Wide Web:
    http://www.thomasregister.com

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/
    Metal Web News "A Virtual Newsletter for the Online Metal Enthusiasts"

    An effort by William Gray and others to present a metalworking newsletter.
    Contributions are welcome.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) mailing list was created in mid-May
    1996.  Here is part of their announcement:

    A new mailing list for the discussion of any CAM related software, hardware,
    questions, procedures, methods, terminology, etc. has been created and
    is now in operation.  Topics could include, for example, software such as
    Camax, Mastercam, CimLinc, Cisigraph, SurfCam, etc, or subjects such
    as G-godes, APT source, different cutting methods and styles, or even
    actual CNC related topics.

    To subscribe to this list, send mail to "majordomo@umcc.umich.edu" with:

    subscribe cam

    in the body of the mail by itself.  The subject of the mail is ignored.
    This will subscribe you to the per message version of the list.  This means
    that for every message the list receives, you will receive one piece of 
    mail.  If there are 10 submissions to the list in one day, you get 10 pieces
    of mail.

    There is also a digest version available.  To subscribe to the digest
    version, send mail to "majordomo@umcc.umich.edu" with:

    subscribe cam-digest

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    There's a CNC newsgroup: alt.machines.cnc

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Gardner Publications, publisher of the magazines Modern Machine Shop,
    Production, and Products Finishing, has a web page:

    http://www.gardnerweb.com/

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Metal casting:

       http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster
       http://soho.ios.com/~jfisch

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    If you are interested in clocks/watches, there is a CLOCKS mailing list.
    Send mail to listserv@listserv.syr.edu, containing the command
    "SUBSCRIBE CLOCKS your name".

    There is also a clock presence on the World Wide Web (WWW):
      http://glen-ellyn.iit.edu/~clocks/clocks/clocks.html

    A similar newsgroup is alt.horology.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Steam Engines: http://mindlink.net/Ron_Stewart/livsteam.html
                   http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/livestm.html
                   http:////edge.edge.net/~vrbass/steamfaq.htm

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    On the scientific side, there's sci.engr.metallurgy.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    There is also a Usenet newsgroup rec.woodworking that may be of
    interest to people who read rec.crafts.metalworking.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    WWW (World-Wide-Web) users may be interested in Enrique Vega's
    efforts which he calls ArtMetal.  This includes a mailing list
    and a Home Page of:

      http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/ArtMetal.html

    Enrique can be reached at evega@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net.

    See also the Prince Edward Island Crafts Council (Canadian):

      http://www.crafts-council.pe.ca

    A crafts fair guide is at:

      http://www.teleport.com/~paulec/FAIRGUIDE/CRAFTLST.HTML

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A Usenet newsgroup was created around March of 1994, called
    rec.crafts.jewelry.  Some of the questions on rec.crafts.metalworking
    have been jewelry related, such as casting small pieces; these might
    be more appropriate on the new group, or at least you might get more
    answers!

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    A newsgroup called rec.knives was created in September 1995.

    A mailing list for knifemakers was created in early 1995:

       Such a list is now available, and may be
       joined by sending mail to majordomo@basis.com containing a line
       "subscribe knife-list".  Following is the announce text for the list:

        The purpose of this mail list is to be a forum where knife makers and
        bladesmiths discus technical, artistic, political, and business ideas
        related to the field of custom and handmade cutlery.

        Knife fighting techniques and martial arts are not part of the
        discussion, except where it relates to an actual knife design.

        In short, this mailing list is for knife makers, sword makers,
        bladesmiths, and serious collectors of custom and handmade cutlery.

    An older mailing list for knifemakers, collectors, and people interested
    in edged-weaponry martial arts and techniques is the EDGE mailing list.
    Requests to be added to this list should be sent to:

      EDGE-owner@HICOM.LUT.AC.UK

    Submissions to the list itself should be sent to:

      EDGE@hicom.lut.ac.uk

    Topics on this list have ranged across topics like discussions of the
    types of steels used in knives, and why select one over another; the
    qualities and selection of different types of pocket tools [such as the
    Gerber Multi-Plier, the Leatherman, the SOG Toolclip, etc.]; current
    sales on knives from mail-order or discount-house sources; why Japanese
    swords are made the way they are/were, and how to take care of such a
    sword; selecting modern reproduction swords for martial-arts purposes;
    and many other edged-weapon and edged-tool subjects.  However, lately
    (April 1995) it has been heard that the list is largely dead and
    unresponsive.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Silversmithing (commercial): http://www.gold.net/users/dy93/.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The "industry", whatever that may be, has a WWW home page as well as
    a Telnet address, respectively:

       http://www.industry.net
       industry.net

    Then there's the manufacturer's Information Network:

       http://mfginfo.com/home.htm

    Metal finishing (electroplating, anodizing, galvanizing, etc.):

       http://www.finishing.com
       http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html

    METAL Machining and Fabrication:

        http://www.mmf.com/metal

    Used Equipment Network (UEN), WWW or Telnet respectively:

       http://www.hsix.com
       buyused.hsix.com

    The Global Recycling Network deals with used machines and tools:

       http://grn.com/grn/

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Book sellers:

       Powell's Technical Books (new and used) can be reached at
       http://www.technical.powells.portland.or.us, or you can
       get more info by sending blank e-mail to
       ping@technical.powells.portland.or.us.  More info in the vendor list.

       Amazon.com claims one million titles, at http://www.amazon.com.

       Book Stacks Unlimited can be reached via telnet to books.com,
       or (216) 861-0469, or http://melville.books.com/scripts/main.exe?
       or http://www.books.com.

3.  What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking?

    Note that this is not a complete list.  If you are looking for books on
    anodizing, there is a separate FAQ section that deals with that topic
    and lists several books.

   - How to Run a Lathe

     This book is available from South Bend distributors,
     such as Blue Ridge, and/or Lindsay.  It was originally printed
     in 1914 and last updated in 1966, I believe.

   - Advanced Machine Work by Robert H. Smith (1925).   This book
     is not as "advanced" as the title might indicate, but assumes
     that you are not a total beginner.   Available from Lindsay
     Publications (Cat. No 4236, $27.50, hardcover).

   - Machine Tool Operation, Vol. 1 & 2, by Henry Burghardt,
     Aaron Axelrod & James Anderson. These books were for many years
     the standard text in trade schools and technical colleges.  Volume
     one covers the basics: safety, measuring, bench work, drill press,
     lathe and forge.  Volume two covers: shaper, planer, milling
     machine, grinding, hydraulics, band saw, metallurgy, and
     cutting fluids.  Your best source for these is a used book
     store or a technical school library.   They overlap much of
     "Advanced Machine Work", but neither is a complete substitute
     for the other.

   - Materials Handbook by George S. Brady (McGraw-Hill Book Co.)
     "An encyclopedia for purchasing managers, engineers, executives,
     and foremen".  Essentially, it gives an "executive summary" of
     virtually every material that is valuable in commerce.   For
     instance, there is a two-page entry for "Die Steels".  It is not
     aimed at the scientist or engineer;  it is aimed at the person
     who needs to quickly understand the important characteristics
     and economics of industrial materials without involvement
     in details.  It does cover a lot of non-metal materials as well.

   - Machine-Tool Work, by William P Turner and Halsey F Owen.
     1932 and 1945 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have
     a copy, though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Moderately good text, very good diagrams and pictures, especially
     of huge special-purpose machines like railroad wheel grinders.
     Suffers a bit from age, and seems intended for large industrial
     shops, but a good read if you find it.

   - Machine Shop Theory and Practice, by Albert M Wagener and Harlan R Arthur.
     1941 (hence no ISBN number).  Some libraries may still have a copy,
     though you're probably out of luck for a purchase.

     Fairly good text, more specific techniques than the Turner/Owen book.
     Suffers a bit from age, but still a nice instructional book.

   - Lathe Operations, by Richard R. Kibbe.
     1985, ISBN 0-471-89023-5.
     Adapted from materials originally prepared by the Engineering Industry
     Training Board of Great Britain.  Also in the same series: Milling
     Machine Operations, and Grinding Machine Operations.

     A step-by-step text with about 2 photos and lots of simple but
     usually-clear drawings.  Shows how to do most any common lathe
     operation (and a few uncommon ones) in as few words as possible.

     Check page 90 for what seems to be a man with two right hands.

  -  Machine Tool Practices, by Kibbe,Neely, Meyer and White.
     It's the first year machine shop text used by some community colleges.

   - The Making of Tools, by Alexander G Weygers
     Prentice Hall Press, 1973, ISBN 0-671-60924-6.
     A modern book about doing things the old way.  How the artist/craftsperson
     can design, make, sharpen and temper tools.  May be available from
     Centaur Forge.

   - Machinery's Handbook.
     A standard reference book for machinists, available from most
     distributors of machines or tools.

   - Clockmaking & Modelmaking; tools and techniques
     by W.R. Smith

     Mr. Smith has published other books on clockmaking, but this one
     covers more than just clocks, and is thus of interest to more than
     just clock-makers.  This is a collection of articles from the
     British Horological Journal, Timecraft, Model Engineer, and
     Horological Times.  The articles have been updated and expanded
     for inclusion in this 112-page coil-bound book.

     For a complete review, see HSM Jan/Feb 1992, page 14.

     Available from Gateway Clocks (see names/addresses section),
     $35 post-paid within USA (overseas buyers add $5 for postage).

   - Elmer's Engines, by Elmer Verberg,
     available from Modeltec magazine.
     Has many very nice, and fairly easy to build stationary steam engines.

   - Model Locomotive and Marine Boilers
     [Argus Press, 1988, ISBN 0-85242-923-1]

     by Martin Evans (well known in the Model Engineering field, at least in
     Great Britain)

   - Model Boilers & Boilermaking
     by K.N.Harris, published 1971

     Possibly available from Argus.

   - The Shop Wisdom of Frank McLean,
     available from Village Press.

     Lots of good ideas, and common sense approaches, and the few pages
     about inspecting used machines is worth its weight in gold for first
     time buyers.

   - THE MACHINIST'S BEDSIDE READER
     Guy Lautard
     2570 Rosebery Avenue
     West Vancouver, B.C., Canada V7V 2Z9

     (Some of Guy's books are also available from other suppliers, such as MSC)

     Contains: Working drawings and detailed instructions for making 15
     useful and practical machinists tools and lathe accessories; dozens of
     hints, tips and tricks to help get things done faster, easier and
     better in your shop; a collection of 2 dozen machine shop anecdotes;
     2 highly readable machinists short stories.
     Projects include: a sharpening jig for drill from 1/8 to #60, a
     swiveling base for a 2" Wilton vise, a graduated handwheel for
     the lathe leadscrew.........and many more

     THE MACHINIST'S SECOND BEDSIDE READER
     Similar in format to the first book; projects include: a small
     pantograph engraving machine, a tool maker's block, poor man's
     jig borer and a kerosene-burning blowtorch....... also a short
     story titled "The Bullseye Mixture" which details the method for
     carbon pack color casehardening.

     THE MACHINIST'S THIRD BEDSIDE READER
     Some of the projects/info: color casehardening, a co-ax indicator,
     a collet chuck system, a deluxe overhaul of a keyless drill chuck,
     sharpening tools, sandblasting, setting up work on a faceplate,
     taper turning, knurling flat surfaces, and more.

     "A Treatise on Oiling Machine Tools"
     Very small (25 pages), very costly ($7.95), and not much useful
     information according to Tom Walter.  One useful warning is to not
     use way oils in a milling machine's centralized oiling system, as
     some of them contain wax which will clog the system.

     Other books and plans by Lautard (not a complete list):
     "Hey Tim, I gotta tell ya....' a mini Bedside Reader"
     "3.75 Inch Diameter Ungeared Rotary Table"
     "Universal Sleeve Clamp".

     Lautard's targeted readership seems to be the home machinist.  I'm
     sure that much of what he has to say may be "old hat" to a skilled
     machinist with many years experience.  I confess that I am a rank
     amateur in machine shop practice (my only professional experience was
     as a part-time helper in a gunsmith shop where the machine I got to know
     best was the polishing wheel). The flyer I quote from is available from
     Lautard at the address I gave with my last posting.

     [reviews and typing courtesy of Michael Gordon, except for the description
     of the third bedside reader.  JK]

     It has also been reported that Guy sells an index of some sort, either
     of all projects or all articles, in the back issues of Model Engineer.
     However, the index is reportedly hard to use.  See the description of
     Model Engineer magazine.

   - Machine Tool Reconditioning, by Connelly

     Covers reconditioning of machine tools, including figuring out
     what's off on lathes and such.  Also a good section on scraping
     (i.e. removing small areas of metal by scraping, such as making
     a plate very flat).  Mostly deals with reconditioning ways, and
     does not spend much time on mechanical problems such as worn nuts
     or gears.

   - The Surface Treatment and Finishing of Aluminum and its Alloys,
     Edited by S. Wernick, R. Pinner, and P.G. Sheasby.  Published
     1987 by ASM International, Metals Park, Ohio.  2 volumes.

     Mentioned in sci.materials in response to a "how do I anodize aluminum?"
     question.

   - Electroplating for the Amateur, by L. Warburton.
     Model & Allied Publications.
     Available via Argus.

   - The Electroplater's Handbook, by C.W. Ammen
     TAB books.
     ISBN 0-8306-0410-3 (hardbound), ISBN 0-8306-0310-7 (paperback)

   - Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory
     Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc
     One University Plaza
     Hackensack, NJ 07601

     Mentioned as a good reference for electroplating.

   - Machine Tool Practices, fourth edition, John Wiley and Sons.

     Covers a lot of ground and is the first-year book at DeAnza College.

   - Machine Shop Practice, second editions, volumes 1 and 2
     by K.H. Moltrecht.  Published by Industrial Press, Inc.
     ISBN ISBN 0-8311-1126-7 and ISBN 0-8311-1132-1 (vol 1, vol 2)

     Preface: "It is written for the beginner, as well as for the more
     advanced craftsman, technician, and manufacturing engineers."
     "...designed for use in the classroom or for home study,..."
     (about $20 each)

   - The Home Machinist's Handbook, by Doug Briney (c)1983,
     $17.95  [TAB Books] ISBN 0-8306-1573-3 (paperback)

     Basic... Reading prints, measurements, hand tools, bench tools, the
     lathe & operation, the milling machine & operation.  Projects using
     the Sherline machine system.

   - Machinists' Ready Reference, 7th edition (c)1989 [Prakken Publications,
     Inc], Compiled by Clarence Weigartner, ISBN 0-911168-74-5,
     7th edition: $12.50/$10.00(schools), new 8th edition: $14.50

     Pocket sized (4.5" x 6").  Good student guide to math, drills, tapers,
     threads, milling/turning speeds, gears, weights & reading shop prints.
     Sort of a "poor man's Machinery's Handbook".

   - How To Work Sheet Metal, by Herbert Dyer
     Available from Power Model Supply.  Highly recommended by Guy Lautard
     in his Machinist's Bedside Reader.

   - The New Science of Strong Materials, 1968 (1st ed.), 1976 (2nd ed.),
     1984 (Penguin paperback).  J.E. Gordon, Princeton University Press.

     (review courtesy of Bob Powell):
     This wonderful 280 page paperback lucidly covers the realm of
     materials science and engineering, in lay terms rather than
     textbook theory, but with enough depth and detail to satisfy
     an engineer in a different discipline.

     Explains, along the way, the physical and chemical nature of
     wood, and the nature and evolution of all common glue types,
     plastics, composites from straw-clay brick to fiberglass to
     kevlar, through iron and steel and alloy metals.  Elasticity and
     the theory of strength and toughness, with basic beam theory
     developed from first principles.  Cracks, defects and crack
     propagation (why glass bends then shatters), hardening 
     and tempering, and to boot, the best explanation I've
     seen of all the classic iron and steel making processes.

     For the wood-inclined, a whole chapter on timber and cellulose
     from the molecular level up through the evolution of the
     structural design of wooden ships and (wood) airplanes, with
     insight into wood drying and wood rot.  Dedicates a chapter
     alone to the evolution of wood glue and the operation and
     properties of each type.

   - The Starrett Book for Student Machinists (c)1941, 1975 & 1982 [160 pages]
     Catalog #1700 @ $8.50.

     Drawing, fits, bench work, how to measure, cutting speed/fluids,
     drilling, lathe operations, grinding, sawing, toolmaking, geometry,
     mechanics, & reference tables.  Good information, well worth the price.
     It covers screw cutting, via the lathe, better than most.  Be sure to
     get the FREE Starrett information, "single copy mailed to individual
     craftsmen."  Decimal Equivalent Card (pocket size 3" x 5"); The
     Starrett Story (36 pages 4-5/8" x 6-7/8"); The Tools and Rules for
     Precision Measuring, Bulletin #1211 (80 pages 5-1/4" x 7-5/8")

   - Watch Making, by George Daniels.

   - De Re Metallica (Georgius Agricola, 1556) translated by Herbert Hoover
   - Pirotechnia (Vannoccio Biringuccio, 1540) translated by Smith & Gnudi

     These two are Dover reprints, and were state-of-the art from renaissance
     through perhaps 1850 or so.  The first is on mining, and the second on
     metalworking.  An interesting historical look at how things were done
     in earlier times, and why they thought it worked.

   - Computational Geometry for Design and Manufacture,
     Copyright 1979, I.D.Faux, M.J. Pratt.
     Ellis Horwood Publishers, a division of John Wiley & Sons.
     ISBN 0-85312-114-1

     Very good overall text on surfaces and design.  Was recommended
     as a way of learning strange jargon used in CNC machining of surfaces,
     such as loft, nurbs, and coons.

   - Computer Numerical Control: Essentials in Programming and Networking
     by Lin.  Delmar Publishers, Inc. 3 Columbia Circle, P. O. Box 15015,
     Albany, NY 12212-5015. (800-347-7707)

     (recommended by Jerry Kimberlin)
     This is a textbook for a 2 semester course.  It assumes you know nothing
     and takes you through the whole thing including G, N, APT...2D, 3D, CNC 
     networking, the math, etc.  I don't remember the exact price but it is 
     over $50 and less than $70.

   - The New Edge of the Anvil, by Jack Andrews

     Not only is it a great intro to blacksmithing, but it also has the most
     wonderfully brief description of metallurgy and heat treating.  It is
     available from Skipjack Press direct at:
        637 Drexel Ave.
        Drexel Hill , PA   19026
        or e-mail andrews@hslc.org

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   The following suggested books pertain to jewelry-making, per Sherry Lem.

     The Complete Metalsmith   ISBN 0-87192-240-1, $14.98
     Tim McCreight
     Davis Publications, Inc.
     Worcester, MA, 1991
     Excellent, easy to follow techniques for beginning to intermediate levels,
     this is the revised edition which is much improved over the original.

     Contemporary Jewelry,
     Philip Morton
     Holt, Rinehart & Winston
     NY, 1970, 1976
     Interesting design philosophy, techniques.

     Design and Creation of Jewelry,
     Robert vonNeumann
     Chilton
     Radnor, PA, 1961, 1972

     Form Emphasis for Metalsmiths,
     Heikki Seppa
     Kent State University Press
     Kent, OH 1978
     Perhaps THE book on anticlastic raising/forming, though difficult to
     teach yourself from the pictures and instructions.

     Jewelry Concepts and Technology   ISBN 0-385-04185-3, $100.00
     Oppi Untracht
     Doubleday & Company
     Garden City, NY, 1982, 1985
     Most comprehensive guide on jewelry making techniques, 
     also contains gemological data, info on setting up a workshop.
     Also, his "Metal Techniques for Craftsmen" $75.00 is a somewhat
     abridged version.

     Jewelry: Contemporary Design and Technique,
     Chuck Evans
     Davis Publications
     Worcester, MA, 1983
     Especially good sections on mixed metals (mokume gane, etc.).

     Jewelry Making and Design,
     Augustus F. Rose and Antonio Cirino
     Dover Publications, Inc.
     NY, 1949, 1967
     Decidedly English flavor, very inexpensively priced.

     Jewelry Making Manual,
     Sylvia Wicks
     Brymorgen Press
     Cape Elizabeth, ME, 1986
     Beautiful color photos, good technique instructions.

     Jewelry Manufacture and Repair,
     Charles Jarvis
     Bonanza, NY, 1978

     Metal Sculpture - New Forms New Techniques,
     John Lynch
     The Viking Press
     NY, NY
     Basic art metal techniques.

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   Another book, suggested by Marc Kerr:

   "Silversmithing" by Finegold $35.00.  This is an excellent book if you are
   really after smithing and not jewelry making. It has very good
   descriptions of the smithing process and walks you through a few projects
   like a bowl, box with hinge and others.

   --------------------------------------------------------------------

   How about video tapes?

  -  New Life Video Productions

     Several tapes with Rudy Kouhoupt, frequent author in HSM and
     other magazines.  Titles such as:
        "Fundamentals of Machine Lathe Operation"
        "Fundamentals of Milling Machine Operations"
        "How to Cut Spur Gears"
        "How to Cut Screw Threads"
        "Building a Sterling Hot Air Engine"
     Price varies from tape to tape.  Production qualities seem poor
     (based on viewing the first title), such as poor and inconsistent
     audio, including a radio playing in the background.  But you can
     safely ignore this and concentrate on what Rudy is trying to show you.
     Seems reasonably priced for the material covered.  The material is
     quite good for the beginner ("I just got a vertical mill; how do I use
     it?"), or perhaps even the advanced beginner.  These are probably tapes
     you will watch once or twice, so it would be nice if you could rent
     instead of purchase them!  Most of them seem to focus on making a
     simple but useful project while presenting the material.

  -  Bailey Craftsman Supply

     "Greensand Casting Techniques" from David Gingery's workshop.
     HSM seemed to like it.  Others include a second volume of the
     above, Basic Metal Lathe Operation (2 vol), Basic Milling Machine
     Operation.

  -  Darrell Markewitz, Wareham Forge

     "A 3 hour instructional VIDEO - $25.00 each (includes postage)"

     "This video contains a wealth of information, including what to look for
     in used tools, building a home shop, and demonstrations of a number of
     basic forming techniques."

     PART 1 - TOOLS:    forges; lighting a fire; coal
              anvils; hammers; vises; safety

     PART 2 - TECHNIQUES:   'S' hooks; tent peg; fire poker
                   twists; toasting fork; home forge

     the WAREHAM FORGE
     Hamlet of Wareham - RR #2
     Proton Stn Ont, CDN -  N0C 1L0
     (519) 923-9219, wareham.forge@headwaters.com

  -  Quality Street Productions

     The Fourth Annual NAMES Expo  (1993)

  -  Starrett

     Tools and Rules for Precision Measuring

  -  Colonial Williamsburg
     P.O. Box C
     Williamsburg, VA  23187

     Tapes are also available from:

     KVC Entertainment
     P.O. Box 40276
     Indianapolis, IN  46240-0276

     CW produces several tapes on blacksmithing, silversmithing, gunsmithing,
     and so on.  They show the "old time" way of doing things, but are
     reported to be excellent.

   - Tim McCreight:
     Complete Metalsmithing

     Apparently Tim has a book *and* video by this title.  Sandy Grossmann sez:

     "He takes you step by step through a couple of projects.  When *he* does
     it, it sure looks simple!  He gives some great shortcuts, and his examples
     are instructive."

     "I especially liked his sections on riveting and on using a rolling mill. 
     Very useful.  The entire video is oriented toward jewelry, but he also
     does a sterling silver box.  You can get the video mailorder from River
     Gems and Findings (phone 1-800-545-6566) or from TSI (I think).  Last
     time I checked it was about $40."


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:35 EDT 1996
Article: 32198 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!jimkirk
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 11 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101621.24436@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:21 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 11
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:21 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 941

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 11 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(continued from previous part)

   -  J. Malcolm Wild (Clocks)
      12 Norton Green Close
      Sheffield S8 8BP England
      Telephone: 0742 745693

      Supplies and accessories for clockmaking.

   -  The Jeweler's Loupe 1625 Crenshaw Blvd.  
      Torrance, CA 90501 
      (310)320-7005

   -  J.R. Machine
      Houston, Texas
      (800) 332-5361

      Make replacement parts for Bridgeport machines, at a lower cost
      than from Bridgeport.  Catalog available.

   -  Kitts Industrial Tools
      22384 Grand River Avenue
      Detroit, MI  48219
      800-521-6579, 313-538-2585 in MI, 313-538-6499 (fax)
      Credit cards, COD's
      $25 minimum order
      M-Sa 9-5 EST

      Cutting tools, hand tools, air tools, supplies
      Quality ranges from ultra-classy, great deals, garbage-at-any-price
      import.

      150 page catalog, but you have to mail a $2 check (won't accept phone
      orders for catalogs!).

   -  Klockit
      P.O. Box 636
      Lake Geneva, WI  53147
      (800) KLOCKIT    (i.e. (800) 556-2548)

      Books, kits, plans, tools, parts for clocks and watches.

   -  The Knight Foundry
      P.O. Box 158
      81 Eureka St.
      Sutter Creek, CA  95685
      (209) 267-5543  Foundry, (209) 267-1449  Tourism & Education

      This outfit has been casting iron since 1873, and preserves old
      machinery and methods as a sort of living history museum.  They
      also operate a machine shop entirely from a water-powered line
      shaft!  They are doing serious commmercial work, including grey
      iron castings to 4000 lb. for industrial and architectural
      applications.  They do a lot of reproductions and one-offs for
      steam and gas engine nuts.  They also run a pattern shop.

      The proprietor is Ed Arata, a very approachable fellow who apparently
      runs the place with the help of Friends of Knight Foundry, a non-profit
      with historical/educational goals.

      (as of around January 1996, their future seems uncertain; contact
      them for current status and capabilities)

   -  Laguna Clay Co.
      14400 E. Lomitas Ave.
      City of Industry, CA  (don't have the zip)
      (818) 330-0631

      Sands and fire clays for casting.  Though it's liable to increase
      cost significantly, they do ship and they will split bags.  Very
      helpful in terms of making sure you get the right product for your use.

   -  Lindsay Publications Inc.
      P. O. Box 538
      Bradley, IL  60915-0538
      (815) 935-5353

      Lindsay publishes books for the home shop, covering casting, forging,
      machining, and a few plans for building engines and such.  It has been
      reported that their catalog is "a bit bizarre" but the service is
      fast.  Their electrical catalog has cross-over projects that include
      light (pun intended?) metalworking.

   -  Little Engines
      13486 Carapace Court
      Manassas, VA 22111
      (703) 791-5322

      Plans, castings, accessories for model rail motive power.

   -  Logan Actuator Co.
      4956 N. Elston Avenue
      Chicago, IL 60630
      (312) 736-7500, (312) 736-6854 (FAX)
      e-mail: 72330.1636@compuserve.com

      Spare parts etc. for Logan lathes.

   -  Mason & Sullivan
      210 Wood County Industrial Park
      Parkersburg, WV  26102-1686
      800-225-1153 (orders), 800-535-4486 (technical advice),
      800-535-4482 (customer service), 304-428-8271 (FAX)

      Supplier of clock kits, plans, parts, and tools.  In business since
      1947, they recently went out of business, and have re-appeared
      owned in part by the employees, though they also appear to be
      affiliated with the Woodcraft company (same address!)

   -  McMaster-Carr Supply Company
      PO Box 440
      New Brunswick NJ 08903-0440 USA
      (908) 329-3200 (Sales), (908) 329-6666 (Other Departments),
      (908) 329-3772 (FAX)
      http://www.mcmaster.com

      Also has stocking sales centers in Atlanta, Chicago, and Los Angeles.

      Note that they apparently only deal with companies.  Jim Harres reports
      that they refused to send him a catalog.

      Prints an annual 2600+ page catalog.  Very complete supplier with tools,
      screws, shelving, wheels, lamps, heaters, air conditioners, plumbing, 
      electrical supplies, plastics, metals, pumps, containers, motors, gauges,
      paint brushes, hooks, door hardware, pH testers, microscopes, etc.
      Metric and english threads and sizes, too. Small bits of information,
      reference charts and advice are scattered throughout the catalog.

      No minimum order.  Satisfaction Guaranteed, whatever that means.  
      No problem with returns, but they ask that you get specific return
      instructions before shipping anything back.  All prices subject to
      change.  Visa and MasterCard accepted.  Prices are quoted plus actual
      shipping.

      Experience with McMaster-Carr is very good.  They do update
      (read: raise) their prices frequently, so don't believe catalog prices.
      Get a quote before buying.  Expect the catalog to be 10% low.
      Shipments have been prompt, complete, and accurate.  Prices seem 
      high, but they make up for it with "one-stop" shopping.

   -  Merritt's Antiques, Inc.
      P.O. Box 277
      Douglassville, PA 19518-0277
      (610) 689-9541, (610) 689-4538

      Clocks, clock parts, clock repairing tools, etc.

   -  Metal Buyer's Mart, Ltd. (formerly Metal By Mail)
      N15 W22218 Watertown Rd. #3
      Waukesha, WI  53186
      (800) 657-0721, (414) 547-3606, (414) 547-3860 (FAX)
      http://www.execpc.com/~metal
      e-mail: MBMDAN@aol.com

      Also: 1216 Capitol Dr, Unit A
      Addison, IL  60101
      (708) 628-8620, (708) 628-8747 (FAX)

      $3 catalog, which contains decent descriptions of what they sell
      (hardness, machinability, etc.).  Ferrous and nonferrous metals
      (including Nickel Silver), fasteners, and a few nonmetallic
      materials such as nylon and teflon.  A source for small quantities.

   -  Metal Lathe Accessories
      Box 88
      Pine Grove Mills, PA  16868

      Mostly castings and raw-parts kits for common and useful lathe
      accessories, mostly for lathes similar to 9- or 10-inch South
      Bend and Atlas-style units.  A T-slot cross slide, rear mounting
      tool post, faceplate, milling attachment, boring/facing head,
      large steady rest, boring and ball-turning tool post, and others.
      Also a toolpost grinder kit.  You can order kits, or just drawings.

   -  Metal Supply Co.
      4001 G St.
      Philadelphia, PA 19124
      (800) 638-2521

      Supplier of Brass, Copper, sheet, plate, bar, etc.

   -  Micro Fasteners
      110 Hillcrest Road
      Flemington, NJ  08822
      (800) 892-6917, (908) 806-4050, (908) 788-2607 (FAX)

      They have a growing selection of small nuts, bolts, screws, etc.  Their
      prices seem reasonable, and they'll sell in small lots.
      Call and ask for a catalog. 

   -  MicroKinetics
      1220 Kennestone Circle, suite J
      Marietta GA 30066
      (404) 422-7845, (404) 422-7854 (FAX), (404) 422-2714 (BBS)

      CNC parts such as software, PC controller boards, amplifiers,
      position sensing, and motors.  Kits to do conversions on Sherline
      lathes and mills, and Bridgeport mills.  Also Sherline lathes and
      mills pre-converted for CNC.

   -  Micro-Mark
      340 Snyder Avenue
      Berkeleyheights NJ 07922-1595
      (800) 225-1066, (908) 665-9383

      Miniature tools & things, including Sherline lathes and mills.
      "Weensy" nonferrous tube, rod, sheet.  Everything sold in small
      quantities.  Prices not superb, but some of the items can't be
      found elsewhere.

      Sometimes have sale catalogs with some items marked down as much
      as 50%.

   -  Minitech Machinery Corp.
      430 Tenth Street, Northwest Suite N-005
      Atlanta, GA 30318
      (404) 607-7228, (404) 892-6832 FAX, (800) 662-1760
      http://www.mindspring.com/~minitech/

      CNC software; complete small CNC mills (unknown mfg though it
      uses a Sherline headstock and motor; also one based strictly on
      a Sherline), CNC lathe (based on an Emco compact-5 or a Sherline),
      and retrofit kits for Sherline, Emco, and Prazi.

   -  J. I. Morris Co.
      394 Elm Street
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-4394, (508) 764-7350 FAX

      "Precision manufactured by us for stock and order.  Sizes
      0000-160 to 2-56 and popular UNM sizes stocked in many
      head styles and lengths in both brass and burr-free stainless.
      Matching taps, chasers and gages available.  Write for catalog
      or send print for prompt quotation."  (it has been reported
      their prices are high)

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.

   -  Myford Limited
      Chilwell Road
      Beeston,
      Nottingham,
      NG9 1ER
      ENGLAND Tel +44 (0)115 9254222 Fax +44 (0)115 9431299

      Myford has been making fine small lathes (7 inch, 10 inch, probably
      a few others) for many years, and at least in the UK they are a common
      addition to the serious home shop.  Quite a few articles have been
      published over the years describing home-built accessories.  In the USA,
      Blue Ridge is a Myford distributor.

   -  National Acme/Sheldon
      (419) 334-8971

      Parts for Sheldon lathes, among other things.
      Not cheap, no used parts, but the parts are in stock.  Example price
      (July 1995) $311 for cross feed screw for 10" Sheldon lathe.

   -  NC Tool Co.
      6568 Hunt Rd
      Pleasant Garden, NC 27313
      (800) 446-6498

      A recommended supplier of venturi (non-blower) forges.  They do have
      a catalog, and they are more than helpful when you call. They have
      several different styles and sizes and are excellent for those just
      starting out or those already well into this stuff.  They are good,
      simple units and most of all, they work!!! (from "the" Jim Hrisoulas)

   -  New Life Video Productions
      P.O. Box 175
      Traverse City, Michigan 49685
      (616) 276-7194 FAX

      Video tapes, as discussed elsewhere in the FAQ.

   -  Nexus Special Interests
      Nexus House
      Boundary Way
      Hemel Hempstead
      HP2 7ST
      United Kingdom
      +44-1442-66551, +44-1442-66998 (FAX), Subscription Hotline:+44-1858-435344

      A sister company of Argus, they now publish Model Engineer magazine.
      The USA agent is Wise Owl Worldwide Services.

   -  Nonferrous Metals Co.
      Waterbury, CT
      (203) 274-7255, (203) 274-7202 (FAX)

      Brass and copper mill products (rod, bar, wire, sheet, plate, tube),
      including Nickel Silver.

   -  Nordex, Inc.
      50 Newton Road
      P.O. Box 1956
      Danbury,  CT.  06813
      (800) 243-0986

      Usual range of precision components.  Spur gears down to .25" O.D.

   -  Norm Larson Books
      5426 E. Hwy 246
      Lompoc, CA  93436
      (800) 743-4766, (805) 735-2095

      "... books on just about every subject about metal working there is."

   -  Northern Hydraulic
      P.O. Box 1499
      Burnsville, MN 55337-0499
      (800) 533-5545, (612) 894-0083 (FAX)
      http://www.northern-online.com

      Sort of a hardware store by mail.  Gasoline engines, pressure washers,
      hydraulic pumps and cylinders, air compressors, tools, and so on.

   -  Omega Engineering
      P.O. Box 2669
      Stamford, CT 06906
      (203) 359-1660
      http://www.industry.net/omega

      Mentioned as a source for pyrometers and/or materials for making
      thermocouples and other process-measurement stuff.

   -  Penn Tool Company
      1776 Springfield Ave
      Maplewood, NJ 07040
      (800) 526-4956

      A very-well-stocked supplier with a very large selection of
      drills, taps, reamers, and other machining tools.  However,
      in some cases their prices seem outrageous, so check around
      first.  On the other hand, they may be the only source for
      that odd-sized spiral-flute reamer you need, or that #00 tap.
      Their catalogs are free; there is a small (196 pages in 1993)
      one and a large one (410 pages, catalog no. P-912 as of late
      1992), so ask for both (they may only send you the short one
      if you say you're a hobbyist).

   -  Personal CNC
      4856 W. 129th St.
      Hawthorne, CA 90250
      http://www.lainet.com/pcmotion

      CNC kits for Sherline lathes and mills, and larger machines.
      Also completely-assembled systems.

   -  PIC Design
      P.O. Box 1004
      Benson Road
      Middlebury,  CT.   06762
      (800) 243-6125

      Usual range of precision components.  Gears down to less than
      3/8" O.D.

   -  Pipe & Tube Supply
      PO Box 2852
      1621 North Cypress
      North Little Rock, AR 72114
      (501) 372-6556, (501) 372-7694 FAX

      (Dave Williams writes:)
      I finally found a place that will sell steel or aluminum stock in small
      quantities.  I'm pretty happy with this place - they're fully
      computerized, know *exactly* what's in inventory, and usually have it
      cut and waiting before I can get from the cashier's to the warehouse.
      I've bought very small quantities of metal with no hassle.  They've
      also special ordered some offbeat sizes for me, no problems, no extra
      charges.

      Since getting small quantities of metal has some up in this group from
      time to time, I asked them if they sold mail order.  They do, and
      they'll take orders by phone, mail, or fax.

   -  Powell's Technical Books
      Portland OR
      (800) 225-6911, (503) 228-0505 (FAX)

      Send a blank email to ping@technical.powells.portland.or.us for an
      automatic response with further instructions.  Significant selection
      of new & used books on machine shop practice, metallurgy, forge work,
      among tens of thousands of other used books.  You can search the new &
      used catalog via email or the World Wide Web:
      http://www.technical.powells.portland.or.us

   -  Power Model Supply
      13260 Summit Drive
      De Soto, MO  63020
      (314) 586-6466

      Similar to Cole's but heavier on the trains.  Detailed engineering
      drawings for about 15 different engines.  They also carry various
      metals.

   -  Prakken Publications, Inc
      P.O. Box 8623
      Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107
      (313) 769-1211, (800) 530-9673, (313) 769-8383 FAX

      Publishes the Machinist's Ready Reference.

   -  Prazi International Sales & Martketing Group
      5151 Oceanside, Suite 109
      Huntington Beach, CA 92649
      (800) JR-LATHE (575-2843), (714) 379-1380, (714) 379-1385 (FAX)

      Prazi is a brand of German-made small lathes and milling machines.
      This company is the US importer/representative.  Prazi seems to make
      good equipment but the prices are reportedly quite high for what
      you get.

   -  Premier Fastener Company
      495 E. Parr Blvd
      Reno, NV  89512
      (800) 654-6333

      March 4, 1995:  It was mentioned that these folks have titanium
      files.  Not cheap, but they "last like crazy".

   -  Process Heating Co.
      Seattle, WA
      (206) 682-3414

      These guys do nothing but play with nichrome and other heating elements.
      They rebuild and refurbish industrial heating elements for furnaces and
      heaters.  They also sell nichrome in 1 lb. lots.  They stock every size
      and shape of nichrome and ferrochrome wire available in the US and all
      those wierd little ceramic stand-offs for mounting them.  They will also
      design an element to your specifications of amps and volts and heat
      output.

   -  Production Tool
      (800) 366-3600
      
      Lathe tooling and such, fair prices, and often have the same item
      at different quality levels (more quality means more money, of
      course).

   -  Pyramid Products
      85357 American Canal Rd.
      Niland, CA 92257
      (619) 354-4265

      Foundry supplies, furnaces, sand, crucibles, tongs, etcetera.

   -  Reactive Metals Studio
      Box 890
      Clarkdale, AZ 86324
      (800) 876-3434, (520) 634-3434
      reactive@sedona.net

      Titanium, niobium, mokume-gane, shakudo and shibuichi metals.
      Supplies for anodizing reactive metals (this does NOT include
      aluminum).  Also an extensive line of findings, Sparkie welders
      and other supplies.  Free catalog.

   -  A.J. Reeves & Co (Birmingham) Ltd.
      Holly Lane
      Marston Green
      Birmingham B37 7AW
      England
      0121-779-5205 (FAX)
      http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/reeves/mindex.htm

      Plans and parts for stationary, marine, rail and road steam engines
      and a number of IC engines as well.  Associated parts, materials
      and books (will ship internationally).

   -  Reid Tool Supply Company
      2265 Black Creek Road
      Muskegon, MI  49444-2684
      (800) 253-0421, (616) 777-3951, (616) 773-4485 (FAX)

      Prints a 350+ page catalog twice a year.
      Very complete assortment of knobs, screws, clamps, springs, air hoses
      and couplings, drills, mills, taps, machinist's tooling, and books.
      No minimum order, 30-day return with full refund.
      Offers rework and specialty items with special conditions and terms.
      However, they want a company name before sending a catalog.

   -  Rhino Robots Inc.
      221 South Water Street
      Champaign, Ill.  61824-4010
      (217) 352-8485, (217) 356-7699 (FAX)

      Mentioned as a seller of CNC tools.  The RM-6 is the model of their
      bench model mill.

   -  Rio Grande Supply
      4516 Anaheim Ave. NE
      Albuquerque, NM  87113-1668
      (800) 545-6566, (800) 253-9738 (Canada), 95-800-253-9738 (Mexico),
      (505) 821-5529 (FAX), (505) 821-7620 (Local/Technical)

      Jewelry-making tools.  Part of the Bell Group, which also owns
      River Gems and Findings (below).

   -  River Gems and Findings
      Dept T1
      6801 Washington NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87109
      (800) 545-6566 orders, (800) 533-3299 service, (505) 344-9671 fax

      Jewelry-making tools, raw metals such as Nickel Silver, more.
      Apparently a wholesaler, as they want a state tax ID or business
      license number before sending a catalog.  Part of the Bell Group,
      which also owns Rio Grande Supply, above.

   -  Robin Materials
      1951-T Colony St.
      Mountain View, CA 94843
      (415) 966-1533, (415) 966-1533 (FAX)
      http://www.rmat.com   or e-mail: info@rmat.com

      "Specialty metals since 1981"  "Rare alloys & non-standard sizes".
      For example, titanium, invar, inconel, and so on.

   -  Rutland Tool & Supply
      16700 E. Gale Avenue
      City of Industry, CA.  91745-0587
      (800) 289-4787, (818) 961-7111, (800) 333-3787 (FAX)

      (courtesy of Jon Bork)

      Rutland is a general machine shop supply house, with a good selection
      of tools, machines and accessories.  They primarily deal with
      professionals, but I have dealt with them in person and by phone and
      they have always been helpful and quick.  They send out several
      catalogs yearly including a new safety equipment supply catalog.
      Their prices are reasonable and they stock both top of the line and
      "quality import" selections for most items.

      (Will Martin reports they ask for a company name before sending
      out a catalog)

   -  S. LaRose, Inc.
      3223 Yanceyville St.
      P.O. Box 21208
      Greensboro, NC 27420
      (910) 621-1936

      Watch and clock movements, repair parts, supplies, tools, equipment.
      320-page catalog $2.50.

   -  Scanlon American Reprints
      P.O. Box 379
      Modesto, CA  95353
      (209) 667-2907

      Scanlon sells many books on clocks.

   -  Secs, Inc.
      520 Homestead Ave.
      Mt. Vernon,   N.Y.  10550
      (914) 667-5600

      General line of precision hardware, gears, pulleys, clutches, etc.

   -  Sequoia Brass and Copper
      2289 Industrial Pkwy W.
      P.O. Box 4661
      Hayward, CA  94540
      (800) 362-5255

      Aside from the brass/copper implied by the name, also supply
      Nickel Silver (which is mostly copper and contains no silver anyway!).
      Probably a source for various clock brasses.

   -  Servo Products Company
      433 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Box 90370
      Pasadena, CA  91109
      (818) 796-2460, (818) 796-3845 (FAX)

      Small precision drill presses and milling machines, including a
      whopping expensive CNC mill ($15,000).  Power feeds for mills.
      CNC small lathe, CNC add-on for large mills.

   -  Sherline Products, Inc.
      170 Navajo Street
      San Marcos, CA 92069
      (800) 541-0735, (619) 744-3674, (619) 744-1574 (FAX)
      http://www.sherline.com/sherline

      Sherline makes small mills and small lathes that are generally
      highly regarded for small work such as model-making.  Note that
      many other suppliers also stock Sherline, though you can order
      directly from the factory (at the same price) as well.  The
      advantage of finding a local supplier is that you may be able
      to try one out, or at least look at it, before spending your money.

   -  Small Parts, Inc.
      13980 N.W. 58th Court
      P.O. Box 4650
      Miami Lakes, FL.   33014
      (800) 220-4242, (305) 557-8222; (800) 423-9009 (FAX),
      (305) 558-0509 (international FAX)

      Nicest line of supplies and hardware for prototype builders.
      Specifically targeted for small quantities.  Catalog includes
      prices. More fun than the Sears catalog used to be.

   -  Sobel Machinery
      93 Garry Rd.
      Closter, NJ 07624
      (warehouse is at 82 Herbert Ave)
      (201) 768-9645, (201) 768-2842 (FAX)

      "Specializing in parts for American-made machinery."

   -  South Bend Lathe
      400 West Sample Street
      South Bend, IN 46625
      (219) 289-7771, (800) 24-LATHE (i.e. 245-2843)

      Still in South Bend, since 1906.  However, current products may be
      overpriced and no longer appropriate for small home shops.  We've
      also had reports of a real attitude problem on their part.

   -  Spheric Inc.
      Suite 101A
      428 West Harrison Street
      Claremont CA 91711

      Specialize in tungsten carbide balls used for making highly finished
      holes in work.  The idea is to drill/bore/ream a hole nearly the desired
      size, then finish it by forcing a hard sphere through it.  Spheric
      sells the balls, and has accumulated know-how in their use.  In firearm
      manufacturing I believe this is called button rifling or button
      finishing.

   -  Spring Manufacturers Institute, Inc.
      1865C Hicks Road
      Rolling Meadows, IL 60008

      If you need technical info about making springs, they sell a book
      entitled Handbook of Spring Design for $10 US (as of 1994).

   -  The Steam Outlet
      PO Box 1426
      Thonotassassa, FL 33592-1426

      Catalog $5.00.  They are supposed to have 1/2 to 40hp steam engines
      as well as parts and plans.

   -  MALCOLM G. STEVENS
      78 Summer St.
      P.O. Box 145
      Arlington, MA 02174
      Phone - (617) 648-4112

      A source for foundry supplies (crucibles, molding tools, tongs,
      shanks, fluxes, and safety equipment)

      Specific crucible sizes stocked appear to be #4 to #70 in clay,
      graphite, and #10 to #150 in Silicon Carbide.  Tell them that you
      are a hobbyist and would like some literature on foundry equipment.
      They apparently do not take credit cards but will bill you.

   -  Stock Drive Products
      2101 Jericho Turnpike
      Box 5416
      New Hyde Park, NY  11042-5416
      (516) 328-3300
      http://www.sdp-si.com/

      The catalogs are actually published jointly by Stock Drive
      Products (SDP) and Sterling Instruments (SI).  Both are divisions
      of Designatronics (DSG).

      These folks make all sorts of gears, drives, bearings, couplings,
      and related stuff.  Small, not hydroelectric-sized.  Ask them for
      their free publication "Handbook of Gears."  They also publish
      "Handbook of Shafts, Bearings & Couplings,"  "Handbook of Timing
      Belts, Chains & Friction Drives," "Handbook of Design Components,"
      "Aluminum Extrusions & Accessories."  They also package the whole
      set (I asked for just the handbook of gears and got all five).

      See also W.M. Berg for a similar product line.

   -  Stuart Models
      Braye Road,
      Vale,
      Guernsey,
      Channel Islands  
      UK     GY3 5XA

      Steam engine kits, highly regarded.  Coles Power Models is
      Stuart's U.S. agent.

   -  Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
      1530 Spence St.
      Los  Angeles, CA 90023
      (213) 262-8108

      Sells pre-mixed patina solutions.

   -  Surplus Center
      1015 West "O" Street
      P.O. Box 82209
      Lincoln,  NE 68501-2209
      (402) 474-4055, (402) 474-5198 (FAX), (800) 488-3407

      Though they originally sold mostly electronic surplus, they now
      carry a lot of hydraulic surplus and items that may be of metalworking
      interest such as motors, welders, phase converters, and such.
      Free catalog.

   -  Swest, Inc.
      11090 Stemmons Frwy
      Dallas, TX 75220
      (800)527-5057, (214)247-7744, (214)247-5307 fax

      Jewelry-making tools, metals such as Nickel Silver, more.  They ask
      for a company name and business license or tax ID, but may be willing
      to send a catalog without them.

   -  Tab Books
      Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0850

      Publish a very large number of books on technical subjects;
      you should be able to order them through any local bookstore.

   -  Tee Publishing
      The Fosse
      Fosse Way
      Radford Semele
      Leamington Spa
      Warwickshire CV31 1XN
      England
      01926 614101, 01926 614293 (FAX)
      e-mail: 100544.1675@compuserve.com

      From England, they publish Engineering in Miniature and other magazines.
      Similar to Argus, they have clockmaking books as well.  They state they
      are the world's only company specializing in back issues of Model 
      Engineer.

   -  Texas Knifemakers Supply
      Box 79402
      Houston, TX 77279

      Catalog $2 

   -  Tico
      Michigan
      (810) 478-4700

      Mentioned in a post 7/20/95, as a source of Titanium tubing.
      Minimum order is $100.

   -  Titanium Insustries Inc.
      Corporate Headquarters
      110 Lehigh Drive
      Fairfield, New Jersey, 07004-3044
      (201) 808-0222, Fax: (201) 808-9119
      http://www.titanium.com/

      "The world leader in titanium mill products distribution".
      The web pages include a technical reference guide and an FAQ.

   -  Traplet Publications Ltd.
      Traplet House
      Severn Drive
      Upton-Upon-Severn
      Worcestershire
      WR8 0JL
      England
      http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet
      E-Mail: Traplet@Dial.Pipex.Com
      +44 1684 594505

      Traplet Distribution USA
      144 W Sierra Madre Blvd
      Sierra Madre, CA 91024-2435
      U.S.A.
      All U.S. queries should be addressed to Marianne or Kathy.
      Tel. (800) 523-1736, Intl +1 818 836 6931 
      Fax. Intl. +1 818 836 6941

      Primary source for "Gas Turbine Engines for Model Aircraft" by Kurt
      Schreckling, and another book by Kamps.  Some model stores may also
      carry the book(s), such as Sulphur Springs Steam Models Ltd, Box 6165,
      Chesterfield MO 63006-6165 (per an ad in Feb/Mar '96 "Strictly I.C.").
      See Traplet's web pages, under "Books" for price and ordering info.

   -  Travers Tool Company, Inc.
      128-15 26th Avenue
      P.O. Box 1550
      Flushing, NY  11354-0108
      (800) 221-0270, (718) 886-7200, (800) 722-0703 (FAX),
      (718) 886-7895 (FAX)

      Prints a 500+ page large catalog once per year, and also sales flyers.
      Very complete line of tooling for machinists, including micrometers,
      mills, drills, reamers, broaches, taps, collets, tool posts, lathe tools,
      grinding wheels and stones, files, gages, vices, indicators, 
      precision steel pieces, glops and goos, books, and some power tools.
      $25.00 minimum order.  Visa, MasterCard, American Express accepted.
      Replace, refund, or full credit within 60 days of purchase (buyer's
      choice).  Prices are subject to change without notice.

      Experience with Travers has been good.  They are less
      expensive than McMaster-Carr and other full-price dealers.  They sell 
      premium and no-name lines of many similar tools so that you only buy
      the "quality" that you need.  Their performance on orders was once
      imperfect, but they stand behind their merchandise, so correcting the
      error was easy, fast, and painless.  I have ordered from them many times,
      so "one minor error out of many" is a good grade. 

   -  US Cyberlabs

      These folks market a cheap CNC kit, but around late January 1995 the
      newsgroup was unanimous in condemning the company and their product.
      Very slow delivery, shoddy workmanship, flimsy engineering were all
      cited.  US Cyberlabs is the only entry in the FAQ for which I decided
      to include a warning, and not their address/phone!

   -  Vigor, sold by FDJ
      2221 Lee Road, Suite #1
      Winter Park, FL 32789
      (800) 323-6091 (orders)
      (407) 629-6906
      (407) 645-0707 (FAX)

      (FDJ is the company name, and sells the Vigor line)
      Jeweler's tools, video tapes, books, retailing supplies, and many
      universal tools being targeted at jewelers.  Tweezers, ring forms,
      molds, forges, files, small lathes, loupes, calipers, torches,
      solders and brazing material, mountings, etc.  An informative
      catalog.

      Very wide selection, but prices seem very high.

   -  Village Press
      P.O. Box 1810
      2779 Aero Park Drive
      Traverse City, MI  49685
      (800) 447-7367, (616) 946-3712, (616) 946-3289 (FAX)
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm,
      http://members.aol.com/steambook/ls.htm
      VPshop@aol.com, Steambook@aol.com

      Publishers of Home Shop Machinist, Projects in Metal, and
      Live Steam.  Some back issues available; older ones are
      available as parts of several book series.  See the individual
      entries in the "magazines" question.  They also publish other
      books such as "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive."

   -  Weldco
      1-800-733-5840

      Mail order welders and supplies.

   -  Wholesale Tool  (Stu Friedberg's favorite)
      PO Box 68
      Warren, MI  48089-0068
      12155 Stephen Drive
      Warren, MI  48089-3962
      800-521-3420,  800-521-3661 (fax), 313-754-9270, 313-754-8652 (fax)

      Broader selection of hand tools, fewer large machines than IP&S.
      Fork lifts.  No bulk metals, but tool steel, shim stock, threaded rod,
      etc.  Vast selection of cutting tools and grinding wheels.  Scattering of
      interesting surplus items.  Definitely oriented toward professional
      users, not hobbyists.  Full line distributors for most instrument makers.

      500 page full line catalog twice a year.  You have to order by 8 digit
      stock number, so copy carefully.  :-)

      6 locations, main site in Warren, MI.  Most items at most locations,
      some items in Michigan only, very few at other locations only.
      Credit cards, COD's with some payment restrictions
      $25 minimum order

      The other locations:

      PO Box 481
      Stoughton, MA 02072-0481
      1234 Washington Street (Route 138)
      Stoughton, MA 02072-3345, 800-343-1008, 617-344-0338, 617-341-0617 (fax)

      PO Box 700
      Brandon, FL  33509-0700
      9212 Adamo Drive
      Tampa, FL  33619-2631
      800-237-4689, 813-623-3099, 813-623-5816 (fax)

      PO Box 470952
      Tulsa, OK  74147-0952
      9909 East 55th Place
      Tulsa, OK  74146-6404
      800-331-4075, 918-627-2240, 918-627-2044 (fax)

      PO Box 240965
      Charlotte, NC  28224-0965
      4200 Barringer Drive
      Charlotte, NC  28217-1512
      800-438-3580, 704-527-4071, 704-523-


From jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:36 EDT 1996
Article: 32199 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FAQ part 9 of 11
Message-ID: <1996Aug1.101617.24434@roper.uwyo.edu>
Date: 1 Aug 96 10:16:17 MDT
Summary: Metalworking FAQ part 9
Keywords: FAQ
Expires: 31 Aug 96 10:16:17 MDT
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY
Lines: 969

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 9 of 11.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

40.  Patinas

     "Patina" -- "A surface appearance of something grown beautiful esp. with
     age or use."

     Usually used in reference to copper, but also applicable to bronze,
     steel, and other materials.

     This is a very broad topic that depends greatly on the material being
     treated, purity of the treatment, environment, and eye of the beholder.
     There must be hundreds or thousands of ways to do this, and some of them
     may be old wives' tales.  I have no way to verify these!  For the most
     part these are quotes from postings.  For the most part it seems to
     rely on ammonia or other nitrogen compounds.  Note that ammonia can cause
     brass to stress fracture (e.g. don't clean firearm cartridges with it!).

     Cleaning the work is often stressed, and you can't usually get the
     patina quickly.  It takes time to simulate age!

     "It is common practice to treat copper roofs with ammonium sulphate to
     form the green color quickly; it is not exactly an oxide, and simple
     weathering sometimes does not do the trick."  (From: John Whitmore,
     whit@carson.u.washington.edu).

     "Unless you want to waste a lot of time experimenting and then still
     possibly not get a coating that will stay green, use a commercial patina
     made for that purpose.  We use it in stained glass work.  I'm sure it is
     available from anywhere that sells sculpture or architectural supplies."
     (From: John De Armond, jgd@dixie.com).

     "Currently I patinate the brass with "Verde-It" (a chloride acid) and a
     blacking acid (selenium-based).  Can anyone recommend other surface
     treatments?  I also shine with anti-oxidants "Nevr-Dull" and "Peek".
     How long will these last?  Can I do better?  (I got tired of lacquering
     wires...)"  (From: Matt Brand, brand@b.ils.nwu.edu)

     [Electroplating a patina] "...the method consists of treating the copper
     anodically in a solution of:
         magnesium sulphate    10 percent
         magnesium hydroxide    2 percent
         potassium bromate      2 percent
     Solution is held at about 95 degrees C, current density of about
     0.04 A/(dm squared) for fifteen minutes. Initially deposit is
     CuS04.Cu(OH)2, but increases in basicity on exposure until the
     composition of the patina is reached.
     This is from H. Silman, et. al., Protective and Decorative Coatings for
     Metals, Finishing Publications..."  (From: Rob Pauley,
     rob.pauley@gtri.gatech.edu).

     "Here are a couple of green patinas to try:
       1 Tbsp ammonium chloride (Sal ammoniac)
       1 Tbsp salt
       1 oz ammonia
       1 qt. bottled or distilled water
     Mix all in a plastic container that will be only for the patina mix and
     not used for other things.  Warm or hot water will help the solids
     dissolve better.  Spray the patina on the clean oil free copper and let
     set for 2 or 3 hours to dry then repeat 3 or so more times until you get
     what you want.  You can also soak sawdust with the patina and pack it
     around the copper piece and seal it in a plastic bag for a day or 3.
     I have never used this patina but I have seen it and it can be very nice
     and smooth.
     I have used the following patina a lot.  In a glass container mix up some
     nitric acid with water (1 part acid (reagent 75% pure) to 2 parts water).
     Always add the acid to the water slowly.  Add to that mix some scraps of
     copper to dissolve in the acid until the acid no longer dissolves the
     copper.  Do this outside where no body will get into it because it makes
     a deadly nitrous gas (not nitrous oxide).  The solution will be a very
     dark blue.  You have just made cupric nitrate.  You can use a brush to
     apply the patina.  Using a torch to accelerate the drying can work well
     but be careful not to over heat because it will turn black and crusty.
     The fumes are not good to breathe.  This patina can also be used like
     the first patina.
     All patinas can, after they have set a few days, be waxed with paste wax
     (car wax).  I have a copper bowl with the second patina on it that was
     waxed 3 years ago and it still looks good."  (From: marck3@aol.com)

     "You can get cupric nitrate at chemical supply houses. It works vary fast.
     I got a nice effect by dissolving about 2 tablespoons of the cupric
     nitrate crystals in a plastic spray bottle (with about 1 quart water).
     This was one of those sprayers that "Fantastic" cleaner comes in.
     Pre-heating the copper alters the mottling and texture too.
     Experiment on copper scraps with different strengths of solution and
     amount of patina solution applied."  (From: Daniel Wold, danw@panix.com)

     "To colour Copper or Brass Green:
         Cupric nitrate       Cu(NO3)2         40 grams
         Ammonium chloride    NH4CL            40 grams
         Calcium chloride     CaCl2, 2H2O      40 grams
     Add distilled water to make 1 litre.  Brush onto a clean surface.
     This is from an old text book, I haven't tried this one, but others in
     the book have worked well for me."  (From: Steve Rayner,
     ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA)

     "The most common is to wash with a mild solution of salammoniac dissolved
     in water. Just brush (or preferably spray) it on & allow to air dry.
     Repeat as necessary to achieve the desired results.
     If you want an old roofers trick, and one that is much more effective I
     might add, piss on it!  It is still common practice for the roofing crew
     to all pee in a communal bucket and pour it over the roof at the end of
     each day to force a patina."  (From: Gary Hubert, gary.hubert@canrem.com)

     "Well, one thing that works well for me is dormant spray, the
     lime/sulfur kind.  You can get it at your gardening supply store.
     Produces some really colorful patinas depending on strength of solution
     and how long you dip the metal." (From: coppers@teleport.com)

     "Personally I use a solution of lime/sulfur dormant spray (very weak) and
     let it sit for up to three months in solution.  Or if your area has hard
     water (lots of minerals) just drop it in the toilet tank and let it sit
     until it looks good (this is a technique used by antiquities forgers).
     A good solid patina takes time."  (From: Carl Mork, carl.mork@nwcs.org)

     "NOTE: no patina is truly "tough".  None of them can resist scratching.
     All you can expect is that light surface contact won't 'knock' bits off.
     You should plan to treat any patina with lacquer or plain wood wax.
     Three methods come to mind:

       Get a plastic or glass sealable container.  Put your copper in it and
       cover it with a layer of salt.  Put an open container of ammonia in
       there.  Seal the whole thing up, come back several hours later.  This
       gives a blue-green surface.

       Make up a solution of 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon
       ammonium chloride.  Put it in a spray bottle.  Heat copper to over the
       boiling point of water.  Lightly spray the surface.  The water should
       immediately "sizzle"  off.  The color will take 5-15 minutes to develop.
       May be repeated.  This gives a more green than blue color.

       Get a container, fill with sawdust.  Saturate the sawdust with ammonia.
       Add lots of salt, mix well.  Bury your copper in it.  Come back in an
       hour.  This gives a very nice speckly blue&green surface.  You can
       control the speckle by how well it's all mixed together and how fine
       the sawdust is."
     (From:  Mike Schechter Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu)

     "From  - 'Creative Gold and Silversmithing' by Sharr Choate
       Colouring Copper Green
       "A patina is produced on the metal by brushing the surface with a
       solution consisting of 1 gram each of copper nitrate, ammonia chloride,
       calcium chloride, and 1 ounce of water.  When the colour is reached the
       article is set aside to dry.
       A patina can also be produced by pouring a hot solution consisting of 1
       1/2 grams of copper nitrate and 6 ounces of water onto the metal and
       allowing it to dry."  (Quoted by darrell.markewitz@ambassador.com)

     "The best 'cookbook' I have with patina formula is:
         METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS [see reference section, below]
     For pre-mixed patina and coloring solutions in small amounts, the JAX
     brand handled by Merritt's Antiques at 610-689-9541 are OK. They have
     several at $7.50/pint.  For my own work, I brew my own.  Depending on
     what color or effect I want, I use cupric nitrate, ammonium chloride
     and burned oils, alone or in combination.  For those who want to
     experiment with small pieces, get some "gun bluing" at the local sporting
     goods store and try different times and dilutions."
     (from: brnzcaster@aol.com)

     "This [METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS] is an OK book.  Starting from
     absolute scratch, I have been able to get the simplest recipes to work.
     However, *there is no substitute for watching somebody do it*.  My advice
     to amateurs is, read the book first, then spy on your local foundry, and
     see what the motion is like for heating an area evenly with a torch, how
     to use a stipple brush, the way a cupric nitrate solution should sizzle,
     how to keep drips away, what to do when you've flamed the end of your
     brush and there are bits of charred bristle everywhere.  A thousand
     things that will never be in the book."  (From: sheba@panix.com)

     "Regarding the hot oil patina: I preheat the metal, same as with the
     aqueous solutions.  Use the *minimum* amount of oil. Sometimes I cut it
     with mineral spirits.  Mostly, I stick with either Linseed or Tung oils."
     (From: brnzcaster@aol.com)

     "Copper (II) sulfide solution will react with the copper, but will
     produce a greener tint.  It does interesting things to other metals, too.
     Copper sulfide comes as a solution, or translucent-blue pebbles (like
     rock salt) or a fine blue powder.  The latter two can be dissolved in hot
     water to produce the solution."  (From: Derek Streeter, dms27@cornell.edu)

     "I believe you mean copper sulphate.  Copper sulphide is a black,
     insoluble material responsible for the color of some patinas along with
     the oxide.  I have used copper sulphate, and it fits the description of
     the compound that you are describing.  Have fun."
     (From: jgerken@sdcc10.ucsd.edu)

     "As for coloring metal - this is not my field, but I know a tiny bit
     about it.  In my opinion, it is best to color metal by changing the color
     of the metal itself (rather than by painting it).  There are several
     books on the subject; "The Art of Patinas" and "The Coloring, Bronzing
     and Patinization of Metals" [see reference section, below] are two that
     come to mind.  These processes involve oxidizing or chemically reacting
     the surface of the metal to make it change color - usually, this also
     protects the metal from further reaction to the elements.  If you wish to
     obtain some references on this subject, I can recommend [Craft Books].
     They have, at least, the book on Coloring, Bronzing and Patination."
     (From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org)

     "Clean and degrease the metal and dunk it in liquid flours of sulfur.
     Brass doesn't put on a patina like bronze (brass being around 1/3 zinc).
     At least that's my experience."  (From: coppers@teleport.com)

     "A salt water or vinegar solution sprayed on the metal and sealed with an
     open container of ammonia will produce a blue patina.  I have enclosed it
     in tupperware and garbage bags according to the size of the piece.  The
     fumes will react with the solution."  (From: romeug@aol.com)

     "A permanent Patina for Copper (quoting from Henley's book):
       Green -
        Sodium chloride        37 parts
        Ammonia water          75 parts
        Ammonium chloride      37 parts
        Strong wine vinegar 5,000 parts
     Mix and dissolve.  Apply to object to be treated, with a camel's-hair
     pencil.  Repeat the operation until the desired shade of green is reached.
     <end quote>
     First off you may be wondering where to get these chemicals:
         Sodium chloride - This is table salt (NaCl)
         Ammonia water - This is what you buy when you buy liquid ammonia
           cleaner (get the stuff without any other cleaning agents added).
         Ammonium chloride - This is a little tougher.  This is sometimes used
           in things like solder flux.  However, it is also found in many of
           those kids chemistry sets.  Try a good hobby shop - they often
           carry replacement chemicals for those sets (these are usually a
           little pricey for what you get, but you don't need much).
         Strong wine vinegar - Well, you can by wine vinegar from the grocery
           store (this is maybe 7% acetic acid).  However, since acetic acid
           is the chemical we're looking for, and it's also used in photo
           fixing, you can find acetic acid in 28% and glacial(100%) at a good
           photo shop.  28% is by far good enough.
     Henley's says to use a camels hair brush, I've used one of those small,
     triangular makeup sponges with success.  Keep in mind that the patina
     (verdigris) will appear as the solution dries on the copper surface.
     Several applications will probably necessary to get the depth of color
     you want.  Heating the copper helps also, but isn't necessary.  Note!
     Don't soak the copper in the solution, it won't turn green and the
     acetic acid will eventually start to eat away the copper!

     Also, the copper should be CLEAN when you do this.  Steel wool and and
     then wipe it with Hydrochloric acid (Muratic acid at your hardware store
     - and be careful - rubber gloves, protect the eyes and get some
     ventilation).  I usually wipe off whatever remains of the HCL when I'm
     done with a little distilled water."  (From: Eric Kasten,
     Tigger@ibm.cl.msu.edu)

     [Brown/black on bronze] "Liver of sulfur is, as obtained by me from Bryant
     Labs, Potash Sulfurated (Lumps).  I think that means "lumps of sulfurated
     potash".  It turns copper alloys brown, more or less attractively varying
     with the exact alloy.  By using a very concentrated solution and/or
     several applications a dark brown can be produced, but nothing I'd call
     "black".  Adding some ammonium sulfide (a _truly foul-smelling liquid
     also obtainable from Bryant) helps for that, it gives a bluer-toned brown
     by itself.  Either works ok cold and very well hot."
     (From: sheba@panix.com)

     [It has been reported that "liver of sulfur" is potassium sulfide, or
     a mixture of potassium sulfides.  JK]

     "Oppi Untracht has a few books out, one is called "Jewelry Concepts and
     Technology", published by Doubleday.  Another is "Metal Techniques for
     Craftsmen (Persons)", also try Rio Grande Supply 800 443-6766, they have
     great tech support and supplies."  (From: Denise M. Maier,
     denisem@nyc.pipeline.com)

     [Rust finish on Ironwork} "Many metalworker/artists use muriatic acid to
     get the finish you are after.  Use with plenty of ventilation!  Do some
     background checking on how to mix acid with water (never pour water into
     acid; do only vice-versa), what dilution to use, how to neutralize
     surface after etching, how to handle, store, and dispose of the acid.
     You can get some at a masonry-supplies store (it is used to etch unwanted
     concrete grout off stone and brick).  Be careful!"  (From: Laurence R
     Swain, lswain@world.std.com)

     Steve Rayner (ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA) posted the following on
     March 6 1996 as a way of bluing/blackening brass:

        I just found this in an old Popular Mechanics book.  The formula may
        be of use to some of you.

            Sodium thiosulphate (Hypo)     1/2 pound
            Lead acetate...................2   Oz.
            Water..........................1 gallon (U.S.)

        Heat to near boiling  (200 F.), and immerse work piece in solution 
        suspended by a brass wire.  Add more lead acetate to deepen the colour, 
        and speed up the reaction.

        I would suggest using a pyrex container, as the hypo will react with
        iron directly blackening the container.

     - - - - - - - -

     An article by Rand Esser, esser@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net, was posted
     as part of a "newsletter" from ArtMetal.  Rand has kindly allowed me to
     include the information here, with the following notice:

       Copyright 1994 Rand Esser. May be reproduced without permission by
       not for profit groups for educational use only.

     The introduction included:

       Rand Esser, a Raleigh, North Carolina metalworker who specializes in
       lamps and furniture, demonstrated the application of various patinas
       on steel and brass.  Rand uses chemicals to achieve different oxidized
       surfaces on metal, often layering patinas on top of each other to
       achieve unique and distinctive effects.  The patinas are then sealed
       with hot wax.

     The article follows:

     PATINAS ON STEEL
     ----------------

     By Rand Esser

     The patinas demonstrated at the March 12 meeting were copper sulfate
     solution, Black Topaz, and Rusty Red.

     I mix my own copper sulfate solution by mixing copper sulfate crystals
     with water, a little at a time, until the water will no longer dissolve
     the copper sulfate.  Copper sulfate is available at Southern States
     stores.

     Black Topaz and Rusty Red are sold by Sur-Fin Chemical Corporation.
     Sur-Fin will send you a finish kit including seven six ounce bottles of
     their finishes for $50 (they also sell patinas for other metals).  Larger
     sizes from one to fifty-gallons are available.

     These finishes result in a variety of effects depending on strength of the
     solution, reaction time, relative humidity, temperature, surface texture,
     and type of top coating.

     The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solution create similar effects.  The
     Rusty red seems to be a bit more red and the copper sulfate is a bit
     more orange.  I prefer the copper sulfate solution.  It is more beautiful
     and less expensive than the Rusty Red.

     TIPS FOR PATINAS ON STEEL
     -------------------------

     The surface to be finished must be completely clean.  Remove all scale by
     sandblasting or wire brushing.  Different surface textures will create
     different results.  Sand blasted surfaces tend to be more dull and 
     require a shorter reaction time.  Wire brushed surfaces will be shinier,
     but require a longer reaction time.  I sandblast first to remove the
     scale and then wire brush to create a shiny surface.

     Remove all grease, oil, and, dirt with mineral spirits.  Surface must be
     white glove clean for best results.  Different concentrations of the finish
     solutions give different results.  Sur-Fin recommends diluting the Black
     Topaz 1:10 with water.  I have used the Black Topaz at 1:5 with a very
     brown /black result.  Different reaction times give different results. I
     usually leave the solutions on for just a few minutes.  The Black Topaz
     ranges from a jet black with a short reaction time to bluish, greenish,
     black with longer reaction times to brown/black with very long reaction
     times.  The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solutions range from a light
     copper plating effect to light rust to a dark crusty rust depending upon
     reaction time.

     Some interesting effects can be created by using two or more finishes on
     the same piece.  The Rusty Red and copper sulfate solution will work on
     top of the Black Topaz finish.  The Black Topaz does not seem to work on
     top of the others.  I often begin with the Black Topaz and drizzle, drip,
     or brush a pattern on specific areas of the surface, leaving other areas
     bare.  I then allow the Black Topaz solution to react until it is dry.
     Then I come back and coat the entire piece with the Black Topaz solution
     and quickly rinse the piece in water to stop the reaction.  The areas
     treated first will have a different tone than the areas treated later.
     I then come back over the piece with the Rusty Red and/or copper sulfate
     solution and brush, drip, drop or drizzle it in specific areas to create
     coppery or rusty highlights.  The entire piece is then thoroughly rinsed
     with water to stop the reaction.

     TOP COATING
     -----------

     Once you have stopped the reaction by rinsing with water, allow the piece
     to air dry or speed up the process by heating it with a torch.  At this
     point the piece is not very pretty.  You will not know what the piece will
     ultimately look like until you apply a top coat.

     I usually heat the piece with a torch until it is barely hot and then
     apply wax with a lint free cloth.  I have heard that linseed oil also
     works well.  At this point the patina will reveal itself in its final
     state.  By applying more wax and rubbing I can usually remove some of
     the more rusty spots revealing coppery areas.  Additional coatings of
     wax will create a shinier finish with more depth.

     SAFETY
     ------

     These chemicals are poisonous. They  will irritate your skin and eyes.

     Wear rubber gloves, goggles, protective clothing, and a respirator.

     Read the labels on these products and dispose of properly.

     Keep them away from your kids.

     PERSISTENCE
     -----------

     It takes time and experimentation to get good results with these
     chemicals.  Your finishes are likely to look different from mine due to
     the many variables involved.  I am continually experimenting with
     different finishes on metals, steel in particular.  I would like to
     compile a data base of information on this subject to share with other
     metalworkers.

     If you have information that you would like to share please let me know.

     Rand  Esser
     302 Glascock  Street
     Raleigh, North  Carolina 27604

     or send e-mail to:
     esser@artmetal.pdial.interpath.net

     Vendor Addresses for Pre-Mixed Patinas:
     ---------------------------------------

     Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
     1530 Spence St.
     Los  Angeles, CA 90023
     (213) 262-8108

     Chemicals for mixing your own patinas.
     Bryant Laboratory
     1101 Fifth St.
     Berkeley, CA 94710
     800 367-3141

     Supplier of Brass, Copper, sheet, plate, bar, etc.
     Metal Supply Co.
     4001 G St.
     Philadelphia, PA 19124
     800-638-2521

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------
     [end of Rand's article]

     On March 29, 1996, Charles Lewton-Brain (brainnet@cadvision.com) posted
     some advice on cleaning, and patinas on steel.

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     It is really impportant to have a clean surface for goodresults: This may
     be Fantastick scrubbings, or more:

     Cleaning Metal Surfaces,    copyright Lewton-Brain 1985-91
     For all metal coloring and electroplating a clean metal surface is
     essential.  The cleaning process must remove mineral oils, organic oils
     and greases as well as traces of chemicals on the surface.  It must remove
     oxidation which might interfere with the metal coloration or plating
     adhesion and it should possible activate or roughen the metal surface to
     better receive the treatment.

     Cleaning may be accomplished using mechanical (abrasive), chemical
     (heating, solvents, pickling with acids) and electrolytic
     (electrocleaning, electrostripping) means.  Examples of easily achieved
     clean surfaces include sandblasted ones and ones scrubbed well twice with
     rinsings using Fantastic.  A pumice rub followed by scrubbing with
     dishwashing liquid and ammonia on a toothbrush does pretty well.  Repeated
     scrubs with Fantastic work.  Best of all is electrocleaning.

     A simple procedure is:

     1.0   Anneal and pickle in suitable acid.
     1.1   Rinse 3-5 times in running water.
     1.2   Dip into simmering ammonia and detergent solution and scrub well.
     1.3   Rinse well 5 - 10 times.

     NB: electrocleaning can be used after step 1.3.  While steps 1.0-1.3
     produce a quite clean surface by themselves if one is electrocleaning it
     is not a bad idea to pre-clean using steps 1.0-1.3 so as to make the
     electrocleaning solution last longer and lower it's work load in
     cleaning the metal surface.

     A much better and surer procedure is:

     2.0   Remove oxides with pumice
     2.1   Rinse well.
     2.2   Electroclean for 1.5 - 2.5 minutes, object as cathode, then reverse
           the polarity for a few seconds.
     2.3   Rinse 3- 5 times in running water.
     2.4   Dip in 1:10 sulfuric acid to neutralize the electrocleaning solution
           and activate surface.  (15 seconds or so).
     2.5   Rinse 3 - 5 times in running water.

     After cleaning, the metal should be placed in running or circulating water
     (preferably distilled) to avoid oxidation until it is plated or coloured. 
     One can of course plate or colour immediately after cleaning.  In all
     cleaning methods the piece must either be wired to suspend it in the
     solution or held with tweezers.  It must afterwards be very well rinsed to
     remove all traces of cleaning chemicals.  Do not touch the surface once it
     is free of grease.

     Sand blasting may be substituted for steps 1.0 and 2.0 above, a sand
     blasted surface is clean but can be damaged easily as well as being matte
     in appearance.

     Sample Electrocleaning solution:

     Sodium carbonate  50 grams Current density:  1-3A/dm2
     Trisodium phosphate  25 grams Polarity:  1 - 3 minutes           
     Cathodic (of work)  
     Sodium Hydroxide  25 grams 5 - 10 seconds Anodic
     Water    2000 ml
     Operating Temperature   60-70C

     PATINA ON STEEL:

     A method of patinating steel, copyright Lewton-Brain 1990

     Warning: This procedure should be undertaken with appropriate precautions;
     goggles, gloves, protective clothing, adequate ventilation.

     As part of a large scale patination project in which I patinated a steel
     roof surface 24 by 48 feet on both sides I performed some 40 experiments
     to find out how to patinate the steel which was a requirement for
     structural reasons.  In doing so I also experimented with paint, buying
     over $350.00 worth of spray paint, eventually finding one single color
     which for all intents and purposes is green patina.  When placed in
     recesses and the high areas are rubbed off it is indistinguishable from a
     cupric nitrate patina.  It is a car paint: GM 42, 1980 Chevrolet Medium
     Green.  While this is ideal for smaller surfaces my paint experiments did
     not produce the surface effects I required on the large scale work.  I
     reasoned that if I could plate the steel with copper and then convert the
     copper to patina in a fume not only would the job be easier but it would
     also be safer than dealing with solvents or corrosive patination
     techniques (such as a cupric nitrate patination) over large surface
     areas.  I was dealing with 4 x 8 foot sheet steel to be equally patinated
     on both sides simultaneously.  Other types of objects might be easier to
     deal with.  'Tents' of polyethylene plastic sheeting stapled to a
     framework of 'economy' studs were built.  The construction of such a tent
     requires that it be sealed (draped onto the floor from the frame and then
     weighted down).  The object inside is positioned on supports of some kind
     so that it is suspended off the floor in the air inside the tent.  Then
     pans of household ammonia are placed underneath the object.  The fumes
     attack copper or copper based alloy surfaces.  Under normal conditions one
     can activate a copper containing surface with a dilute salt solution to
     speed up the procedure and obtain a blue patination but this proved too
     corrosive for dealing with steel.  The final procedure chosen was as
     follows:

     1) The steel was cleaned well.  Sandblasting would be ideal but was
     impractical for the project.  Solvents were also out for safety reasons on
     such large surfaces without good ventilation.  We ended up using
     Fantastic cleaner.  Two scrubbings with Fantastic on large sponges and
     good rinsings in between and after were adequate most of the time.  The
     surfaces were then left damp with the rinse water.  Only the edges were
     handled to avoid contamination of the cleaned surfaces.  
     2) A contact plating solution for copper plating was prepared (see below)
     and this was applied to the steel using paint rollers (goggles/gloves!). 
     Brushes work also but the paint roller is a bit more gentle.  Plating
     occurs instantly.  Several passes may be made over the same area, without
     pressing hard, which can remove the delicate plating.  The surface was
     then rinsed very well.  If areas of the plating lifted grease residues
     were the cause and a further local Fantastic sponging and good rinsing
     sufficed to allow plating to take place.  After final rinsing the steel
     (held by the edges) was taken to the tent.  One moves fast to retain the
     surface moisture.
     3) The steel was then placed in the tent and pans of ammonia enclosed
     under it.  The tent was sealed.  The centers of the thin sheet sagged
     causing pooling, therefore we built a wooden support with a single nail
     pointing upwards to support the sheet.  More stable objects would not need
     support, though pooling may be factor to consider depending upon the
     surface relief.  The time required to convert the copper plating was
     optimal at about 1-1 and a half hours.
     4) The steel was removed and gently rinsed as scrubbing or hard spraying
     can remove the delicate patina surface.  It will be a mixture of blues,
     greens and hints of brownish red where pooling has occurred and the
     surface dried.  In my case I chose to re-introduce pink spatter marks to
     the surface by spattering droplets of the contact plating solution onto
     the patina surface where they instantly went pinkish-brown.  The steel was
     then dried with fans and immediately sealed using clear automobile enamel
     paint.  I then went back with stencils and gold spray paint to further
     modify the surface.
     The steps in the procedure are then: Clean, rinse,plate, rinse, fume,
     rinse, dry and seal.

     The conversion process
     The copper on the surface is attacked by ammonia liquid, not as much by
     the fume which has a different chemical composition than the liquid.  The
     water dampened surface slowly takes in ammonia fumes where they are
     converted to ammonia liquid in solution so that they can attack the
     copper.  The purpose of the pans of ammonia below the object is to provide
     a constant vapor pressure which replenishes the ammonia on the surface at
     a constant rate as it is used up in converting the copper to patina.  This
     system therefore ensures better overall constant dilution control than
     beginning with ammonia on the surface.

     Control Factors:
     Resists:  Resists may be used to prevent plating or to prevent the plating
     from being converted to patina by the fumes.  Resists to plating may be a
     greasy material (litho-crayon, oil) or thinned rubber cement.  Other
     resists require too much cleaning time and may need solvents for removal. 
     Resists to patination may be a protective spray through stencils (Pam) or
     thinned rubber cement.  Pattern control through resists is easy.
     Time:  Time is a factor in all fumings.  Experiment with various times on
     sample pieces to have a palette of process marks (colors, tones, effects)
     to choose from.
     Pooling:  Where pooling occurs variations in color will result.  Pooling
     can be encouraged and controlled by local application of greases before or
     during patination and by the position and shape of the object.  Various
     liquid thicknesses cause surface variations.
     Sealers:  Sealers will each have a characteristic effect on the surface. 
     I recommend making a palette of various sealing options over a patinated
     surface.  Examples of sealers include waxes, oils, lacquers, transparent
     acrylics, enamels, varnishes and so on.  They often have a tendency to
     darken the colors on the surface.  I prefer clear auto enamel or Spray-Lac
     number 1473 professional Finish Clear Dead Flat lacquer.  It is available
     from Star Chemical based in Hinsdale Illinois, Deerfield Beach, Florida
     and Dallas Texas.  It is an industrial quality spray and requires good
     ventilation.  It is very unobtrusive on a surface.  With any spray the
     surface chosen can be glossy, like paint (in which case why not use
     paint?) or shortly after spraying can be matted down with a cloth pad for
     better surface control.
     Other Chemicals:  I mentioned dilute salt solutions earlier.  Many
     chemicals will modify surfaces.  (Remember never to mix bleach and
     ammonia).  Experimentation and sample making will offer the user control
     choices.  Suggestions for initial investigations include salt, vinegar,
     baking soda and local heating.  There are a number of patination books
     available including one I sell on patinas for small studios.

     Contact Plating Solution Recipe
     All safety warnings apply.  Always add Acid to Water!!  Goggles/Gloves!

     250 grams copper sulfate (CuSO4)  Technical grade chemicals for this
     solution is fine.
     42 cc sulfuric acid 
     Distilled water to the 1000 ml level.

     Put about 800cc water into plastic or glass container after marking
     the 1000cc level on it.  Add the copper sulfate and stir to dissolve. 
     Slowly  pour a thin stream of acid into the swirling water.  Heat is
     evolved-be aware of this.  Rinse the acid container with distilled water
     and top up the mixture with it to the 1000 ml level.  This solution can
     also be used as an electroforming solution for growing copper.  Remember,
     acids are dangerous. A dust mask is suggested around chemicals.  Work
     cleanly.  Copper salts are toxic and irritant and should be handled with
     care.  Dispose of properly.


     BOOKS:

     Ron Young's books are very good for larger scale work.  His Contemporary
     Patination makes up for the poor safety attitude in the Methods for Modern
     Sculptors book.  The former is a working, useful studio guide to
     patination unlike the monumental Colouring, Bronzing and Patination of
     Metals put out in 1983 by Hughes and Rowe.


     Author                        Title          
     Ronald Young, Robert Fennell  Methods for Modern Sculptors
     Ronald Young                  Contemporary Patination

     Source:  Ronald Young
              Sculpt-Nouveau
              21 Redwood Drive
              San Rafael, California,
              94901, USA

     If ordering books through the mail New World Books is to be recommended. 
     They will obtain for one any book in print in North America for 10-30% off
     the list price, including Jewelry Concepts and Technology by Untracht for
     about $70.00.  Their address is:

     Source:  New World Books
              2 Cains Road, PO Box 89
              Suffern, New York, 10901, USA 

     Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop, goldsmithing tricks book by  Charles
     Lewton-Brain. Also 'Patinas for Small Studios" 15.50 plus 3.00 shipping.

     Source: Brain Press, Box 1624, Ste M, Calgary, Alberta, T2P 1N3, Canada
     (403) 263-3955, fax: (403) 283-9053, Email to brainnet@cadvision.com
     (offers 10% discount to internet users)

     --------------------------------------------------------------------------
     [end of text by Charles Lewton-Brain]

     References:
        _Henley's_Formulas_For_Home_and_Workshop_
        Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox, M.E.
        Avenel Books, New York (C) 1979
        Originally published as _Henley's_Twentieth_
        Century_Formulas_Recipes_and_Processes_,
        1907; Revised Edition 1927.

        METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS, Ronald Young and Robert Fennell
        ISBN 0-9603744-0-X [available from Lindsay, catalog number 1257,
        for $16.95 US]

        _Contemporary Patination_, by Ronald Young.  Newer than METHODS FOR
        MODERN SCULPTORS, with a better attitude towards safety.

        _The Coloring, Bronzing and Patinization of Metals_
        by Richard Hughes and Michael Rowe, published by Crafts Council,
        1982, U.K.(ISBN 0 903798 60 3)

        _The Art of Patinas_ by Michael Edge, Artesia Press,
        PO Box 21, Springfield, Oregon 97477
        (503) 746-0094
        $24.95 including shipping

        _Finishing Handbook and Directory_
        (this may be the same book as below)

        -Metal Finishing - Guidebook and Directory_
         Metals and Plastics Publications, Inc
         One University Plaza
         Hackensack, NJ 07601

        _Protective and Decorative Coatings for Metals_
        H. Silman, et. al.
        Finishing Publications, LTD., 1978 (ISBN 0 904477-03-7)

        _Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop_, goldsmithing tricks book
        by Charles Lewton-Brain.

        _Patinas for Small Studios_, by Charles Lewton-Brain.

     Suppliers: (see last part of FAQ for addresses and phone numbers)
        Bryant Laboratory (chemicals, recipes)
        Craft Books
        Merritt's Antiques
        Jax Chemical
        Johnson Atelier Sculpture/Casting Supplies
        Lindsay Publications (METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS)
        River Gems and Findings (formerly Rio Grande)
        Sur-Fin Chemical Corp.
        Brain Press
        New World Books
        stained-glass, and/or woodworking suppliers


41.  Removing Broken Taps

     No matter how careful you are, some day you'll break a tap and wonder
     how to rescue your workpiece.  There are several solutions that have
     come up in the past.

     a.  One way is Electric Discharge Machining, discussed elsewhere.
         If you have an EDM system, you're in luck.  Alternatively try
         to find a machine shop in your area that has one and will do this
         sort of work.  The basic idea is to spark erode away most of the tap
         (if small) or at least one part of it, so the rest can be removed
         by just picking out the remaining pieces.

     b.  There are commercial tap removers that have fingers which slip
         between the flutes, so you can grip the tap and remove it.  This
         may not work well on small taps, and you have to buy the remover.
         It may be possible to build one but it might not work as well.

     c.  If the workpiece is non-ferrous (and has no other ferrous pieces
         attached or embedded), you can mix up a saturated solution of
         aluminum Sulfate at 120 degrees F, and soak the workpiece in it.
         This should dissolve the tap in a few hours (or a few days at
         room temperature).  A plastic tray such as Tupperware is best.

     d.  Another person suggested nitric acid, if the workpiece is aluminum.
         Test it on chips to be sure it won't eat the workpiece.  If the hole
         is blind, you may need to force some circulation by pouring out the
         "spent" acid and re-immersing from time to time.  Note this is
         dangerous, nitric acid is nasty stuff; this might be best done
         outdoors to avoid damage to tools from fumes.

     d.  If size permits, grind out part of the tap with a Dremel tool
         or equivalent, with a suitable grinding bit.

     e.  In some cases, you can try to simply drill out the tap.  This will
         depend on how hard the tap is (mainly the core), and how good a
         drill you have.  It may be difficult to get a good start if the
         break is irregular or slanted.  You may end up breaking the drill.

     f.  Throw away the work piece and start over.

     g.  Of course the easiest solution is to not break the tap in the
         first place.  Use proper technique, lubrication, etcetera.
         Keeping them sharp has been suggested; Darex makes a tap sharpener,
         though it may be expensive for the home shop machinist.

42.  Machining plastic

     OK, this is a metalworking newsgroup, but the question does come up
     from time to time, and Jim Harvey did a good job of summarizing past
     messages and experience.  Please contact Jim, jim@hre.com, if you have
     questions/comments.

     These instructions are appropriate for the following materials;
        Nylon 101 and other type 6/6 Nylons
        Monocast (r) and other type 6 nylons
        Nylatron (r) GS,GSM,NSB,and NSM Nylons
        Acetal
        Delrin
        Delrin AF (Tm dupont)
        Q200.5 (Crosslinked Polystyrene)

     Drilling:
     ---------
     More heat is generated in drilling than in any other machining
     operation, causing difficulties not usually associated with
     fabricating metals. Extra care must be taken to prevent problems such
     as gumming, melted surfaces, crazing, and cracks around the drill
     hole.
     A low helix angle (14 - 17 degrees) with polished flutes is the
     recommended tool for drilling industrial thermoplastics. This type of
     drill with a large flute area permits a free flow of chips and
     minimizes the chance of overheating and gumming. High speed twist
     drills with standard spiral flutes (30 deg helix) may also be used
     successfully.
     Chip ejection is an important consideration in drilling. If the chips
     are not removed from the flutes as quickly as possible, friction will
     develop and result in poor finish, dimensional changes and
     discoloration.

     Drill Design:
     Drills should be designed with the proper point angle and lip
     clearance (90 - 118 deg / 9 15 deg respectively) for heavy wall or
     thick sections. Angles of 115 - 130 should be used for thin sections
     or thin wall pieces.
     An asymmetrical cutting edge is desirable in both thin and heavy
     section work.

     Drill speed:

     The following chart lists the recommended speeds for drilling
     in plastics

       Drill size       RPM

       #60 - 33         5000
       #32 - 17         3000
       #16 - 1          2500
       1/16             5000
       1/8              3000
       3/16             2500
       1/4              1700
       5/16             1700
       3/8              1300
       7/16             1000
       1/2              1000
       A thru D         2500
       E thru M         1700
       N thru Z         1300

     Feeds should be .004" - .015" per rev. for Nylon 101,NSB,GS,GSM,MC901,
     and Acetal although rake angles and helix angles will differ slightly
     Lip relief should be 9 - 16deg for the nylons (the higher numbers for
     larger diameter drills)and 10 - 25 degrees for Acetal

     Q200.5 Acrylic should feed .004"-.010" with a 15deg lip relief angle.

     Drilling Large Diameter holes in the lathe
     ------------------------------------------
     A slow spiral (low helix angle) drill or a general purpose drill
     ground to a point angle of 118 deg, with a lip clearance angle of 9 -
     15 deg. is recommended.  In either case, the lip rake should be ground
     off (dubbed) and the web thinned.

     Spade drills have been used successfully in drilling large diameter
     holes in these materials.  They seem to work best in increments of 1"
     to enlarge the hole from pilot to finished size.

     In order to prevent excess stress in the thermoplastic material, a
     trueing cut is recommended on the OD of the material on the chucking
     end.  Using standard chuck jaws that have been radiused to the contour
     of the OD, or a step collet for maximum contact on the holding
     surface.  Chuck the rod as lightly as possible on the trued end,
     applying only enough pressure to the piece to prevent slippage.  It is
     imperative that a sufficient supply of cutting fluid is directed to
     the drill tip as it is advanced into the part.

     Start with a pilot hole (maximum diameter 1/2") at a speed of 600 -
     1000 rpm using a positive feed of approximately .005" per rev.  If at
     all possible, do NOT feed by hand due to the tendency of the drill to
     grab causing stress cracks.  If you must feed by hand, grind (dub)
     the cutting edge (rake angle) of the drill slightly to reduce this
     tendency.

     If the pilot hole must be drilled by hand, reduce the chisel edge of
     the drill by thinning the web.  A secondary drilling at a speed of 400
     -500 rpm is required to expand the hole to 1" diameter.

     Finally, bore the ID to the desired diameter using a single point
     boring tool.  Using the following information:

       Light cuts of 1/16" to 1/8"
       Light feeds of .003" - .007" per revolution
       Depending on the rigidity of the machine, cuts as heavy as 3/8" and
       feeds of .015" per revolution can be achieved.
       0 - 5deg NEGATIVE rake is preferred to balance cutting pressures.

     Important!
     Sharp Tools with large clearances are IMPERATIVE!
     HSS tools can be used for very short runs ONLY if the edges are kept
     extremely sharp. 
     For long runs, or production work, Diamond tipped or Tungsten carbide
     tools honed with a fine 400 - 600 grit diamond wheel are preferred.
     Carbide tools should ALWAYS be used in turning the following
     materials:

       Nylatron GS, GSM, NSB, NSM, and MC 901 at speeds greater than 600 fpm.


     Vertical Milling
     ----------------

     Vertical milling , using face mills, end mills, shell mills, and fly
     cutters is the most common method of milling thermoplastics.

     Extremely high spindle speeds and table speeds are possible with the
     use of adequate holding fixtures, but because of the flexibility
     inherent to the material itself, extreme care is needed with regard
     to the methods of holding and/or clamping, in order to reduce the
     possibility of deformation.

     When milling parts with a thin cross section, the entire part should
     be encased in the fixture, leaving only the actual surface to be
     machined exposed.  (Just enough opening for the cutter to enter).
     This prevents the part from deflecting away from the cutter.  A
     staggered tooth roughing end mill works best for this method on a
     vertical mill.

     Cutters should be kept extremely sharp at all times to eliminate the
     tendency of the material to produce burrs on the milled edge.  Cutters
     should be used ONLY for thermoplastic and never have been used on
     steel or other ferrous or non ferrous material.

     When using a shell mill, it is wise to tilt the head slightly to have
     just the periphery of the cutter contact the work.  This will avoid
     cutter drag marks on the workpiece.  The use of a square cornered
     cutter is to be preferred as well (over those with a chamfered
     corner) as fewer burrs will be developed over the course of the cut.

     If horizontal milling is required, staggered tooth side milling
     cutters will produce a more accurate clean slot or groove, with
     minimum difficulty.  Slab milling cutters amy also be used, however,
     they require greater care to produce similar quality finishes. 

     Chatter marks may develop and chips may accumulate in front of the
     cutter and get pulled into the cutting surface.  Degradation of the
     surface can result in this case.  Therefore when using slab milling
     cutters a slower spindle speed is advised.

     Burrs at the end of a run-out can be eliminated when a piece of
     slightly harder material (brass or aluminum for example) is placed at
     the end of the work where the run-out will occur.  The cutter then can
     travel past the work piece and into the harder material.  If burrs do
     occur they can be removed with a razor knife as a second operation.

     Coolant is not normally necessary in milling, although we use a
     synthetic flood coolant when dimensional tolerance is required.  Mist
     systems may also be used successfully, as well as mist/air systems.
     The use of air also helps to blow chips away from the cut area
     minimizing the possibility of chips binding between the cutter and the
     work.

     I hope this will be of some help to those who are working with these
     and other plastics. We do a lot of work with these materials and have
     found the above to work quite well for our purposes.


From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:37 EDT 1996
Article: 32200 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!chi-news.cic.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Capstan and Turret Lathes
Date: 31 Jul 1996 11:58:48 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <09960631064351.OUI68.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <31FF4F45.7940@ozemail.com.au>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 12-141.client.gnn.com
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In article <31FF4F45.7940@ozemail.com.au>, From Andy Campbell 
<alcampb@ozemail.com.au>, the following was written:
> What's the difference between a capstan and a turret lathe ?

According to my copy of "Hawkins' Mechanical Dictionary" (copyright
1909),

Capstan Lathe - The same as turret lathe; one having a cylindrical rest
>from  which project numerous tools, resembling the bars of a capstan.

IMO, the same as a turret lathe, but with a round turret, most turret
lathes are hex shaped, to allow bolting larger tools to the face.  

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:38 EDT 1996
Article: 32201 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!chi-news.cic.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Repairing small/pinholes in oil reservoir tank?
Date: 31 Jul 1996 11:58:56 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <09960631065244.OUI18.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <adamp.48.0B2C9C19@mcs.com> <4tm7on$bqo@crl8.crl.com>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 12-141.client.gnn.com
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 31 Jul 1996 11:58:56 GMT
X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5

In article <4tm7on$bqo@crl8.crl.com>, From kimberln@crl.com (J. 
Kimberlin), the following was written:
> Ethiopian lady won the marathon and an Ethiopian man is 
> also doing good in the current olympics.  I'll bet their technique for
  > 
> welding gas tanks has not changed, and they are certainly good 
> runners.> .

I'm betting that's WHY the Ethipoians are such good runners <vbg>!
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:40 EDT 1996
Article: 32202 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!jmf-amct.atc.alcoa.com!usenet
From: cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 07:54:22 -0400
Organization: Alcoa Technical Center
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While we're on the subject, is there any difference 
in nomenclature for cross peen hammers which have 
the peen parallel to the direction of the handle, 
vs. perpendicular?  Just curious....


Brian


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:41 EDT 1996
Article: 32203 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dancad3D now available by FTP
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 13:23:42 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <320263CD.2CA1@ix.netcom.com>
References: <tomgrant.577.0ABD1AC2@primenet.com> <32025C68.4432@ix.netcom.com>
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To: tomgrant@primenet.com

PPIERCE wrote:
> 
> Tom Grant wrote:
> >
> >   I have put Dancad3d ver.2.6 on our server for people to download.
> >
> > It can be found at :
> >
> > hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech
> >
> > They are currently the only two files there. They are zipped using PKZIP.
> > Extract each zip file onto a floppy and you will have the two disk install set.
> >
> > Please visit Hi-Tech Surplus at :
> >
> > www.hitechsurplus.com
> >
> > for robotic and motion control parts and pieces.....
> >
> > Tom
> 


Should have read the subject closer...

 ftp://www.hitechsurplus.com

Paul in AJ AZ


From writt@aol.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:42 EDT 1996
Article: 32204 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DC motor voltage
Date: 29 Jul 1996 03:28:24 -0400
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In article <4tg64d$qqf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, cbear81438@aol.com
(CBear81438) writes:

>Yes there is, you can use a variac, or a controller.   You caould use a
>variac then run it through a bridge rectifier to supply your motors.  
For
>the best power. you need a DC motor controller which gives the motor a DC
>pulse and the speed is worked out by the length of the pulse and the
>frequency.
>
>I just finished installing a 1.25 Hp PM motor on a 15 in Mill Drill, it
>works great.   It replaced a 2 Hp unit with no problem.  It will drill a
>1.25 in hole in 3/8 steel at 20 RPM or mill Al at 6000 RPM with only one
>belt change.

I would like to hear more  about  this instalation. Where do you find PM
DC motors in the  1+ HP range at surplus?

Bill Rittner


From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:43 EDT 1996
Article: 32205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New Club in Houston
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 14:30:01 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32027359.68FA@ix.netcom.com>
References: <32025F12.1383@onramp.net>
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To: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>

George Edwards wrote:
> 
> The Home Metal Shop Club has been formed in Houston, TX, and is now
> meeting on the 3rd Saturday of every month at 1:00pm, at the Oak Forest
> Library, 1349 W.43rd (at the intersection of Ella Blvd. and W43rd St.
> just north of Loop 610).  We currently have about 20 on the mail list
> and are still forming.  For more information, please call (713)723-8597
> or email to geotek@accesscomm.net....or respond to me by email.
> 
> George


I wish you a lot of luck George...  Do well.

Paul in AJ AZ




From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:45 EDT 1996
Article: 32206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dancad3D now available by FTP
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 14:20:19 -0700
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <32027113.12F3@ix.netcom.com>
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To: "J.A.Harvey" <jhre@ix.netcom.com>
CC: tomgrant@primenet.com

J.A.Harvey wrote:
> 
> In <tomgrant.577.0ABD1AC2@primenet.com> tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom
> Grant) writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >  I have put Dancad3d ver.2.6 on our server for people to download.
> >
> >It can be found at :
> >
> >hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech
> 
> Could you double check the address. Seems to not exist when I FTp
> there.
> 
> Jim Harvey
> jim@hre.com
> http://hre.com/


Jim:
I got onto it with;

ftp://hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech



also they have:

http://hitechsurplus.com

Paul in AJ AZ



From PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:46 EDT 1996
Article: 32207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: PPIERCE <PPIERCE@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dancad3D now available by FTP
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 14:19:26 -0700
Organization: Netcom
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To: "J.A.Harvey" <jhre@ix.netcom.com>
CC: tomgrant@primenet.com

J.A.Harvey wrote:
> 
> In <tomgrant.577.0ABD1AC2@primenet.com> tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom
> Grant) writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >  I have put Dancad3d ver.2.6 on our server for people to download.
> >
> >It can be found at :
> >
> >hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech
> 
> Could you double check the address. Seems to not exist when I FTp
> there.
> 
> Jim Harvey
> jim@hre.com
> http://hre.com/


Jim:
I got onto it with;

ftp://hitechsurplus.com/pub/hitech



also they have:

http://hitechsurplus.com

Paul in AJ AZ


From cclau@bmers260.bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:28:47 EDT 1996
Article: 32208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bmers260!cclau
From: cclau@bmers260.bnr.ca (Christopher Lau)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: information on steel
Date: 1 Aug 1996 20:37:18 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 69
Message-ID: <4tr4hu$qvi@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca>
References: <4tbkcg$prv@picayune.uark.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:7985 rec.crafts.metalworking:32208 rec.knives:10712

This really belongs more in rec.metalworking and rec.knives, so I'm
crossposting to those groups and redirecting followups there instead
of to sci.engr.metallurgy.

Kevin Otto (kotto@comp.uark.edu) wrote:
: Could you please explain to me the differences between
: the swordmaking steels which are used today?  I know of several
: and would appreciate information on these and any others which
: exist; those that I know of follow:

I'm going to re-arrange your list:

: 	420 Stainless (does J2 signify anything?)
: 	440A Stainless
: 	440C Stainless
: 	440 Carbon
: 	surgical steel

These are all chromium-bearing steels with a chromium content of >14%
and a carbon content that can range from as little as .2% (plain 420,
no A,B,C,etc postfix) to around 1.2-1.5% for the 440C varieties..  
"Surgical" steel is a generic name given to *any* stainless variety
that is commonly used in surgical instruments, this can be a 300 series
steel or a 400 series steel..  

: 	1095 Carbon
: 	Krupp CK55
: 	spring steel

1095 is an AISI designation for a plain carbon steel with 0.95% carbon.
CK55 is a German steel with 0.55% carbon.  Spring steel, like the "surgical"
label above, is a generic name given to any carbon steel commonly used for
making springs..  The varieties you're most likely to encounter are 
5160 and any 10XX steel where XX ranges from 40-95..  

The term "carbon steel" used without any further qualification (ie, plain
carbon, stainless, etc..  composition data with this designation would
also be helpful) is pretty much meaningless because *all* steels, stainless
or otherwise are an alloy of iron and carbon (and other things, but the
carbon is the key). 

: I would particularly like to know the differences as pertaining
: to blade weapons, such as ability to hold an edge, flexibility, 
: resistence to nicks, etc.

Any stainless steel is poor for making swords..  Stainless has poor
shock and impact resistance and flexibility compared to plain carbon
steels, but is used in replica swords because it polishes up to a
mirror finish quite easily and is resistant to corrosion due to sticky
fingers :-)..  Any martensitic plain carbon steel or non-stainless
alloy tool steel is probably ideal for swordmaking.  As with any
steel, the higher the carbon content, the harder the steel can be made
through heat treating.  Adding other trace elements such as silicon
and manganese and chromium can improve flexibility, toughness or add
corrosion resistance to the steel.  I like 1065 for my swords, but
5160 is also a pretty good choice because it has great impact
resistance and a trace of chromium in it, which doesn't affect its
impact resistance nor does it make it stainless, but does make it
marginally more corrosion resistant than the 10XX series steels (ie,
fingerprints don't etch the surface as easily as with 10XX).  52100
ball bearing steel is also a fairly good choice for sword blades.
52100 is ABS Master smith Ed Fowler's favorite steel.


--
Christopher Lau       | Nortel Wireless Networks / Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Mr. Unix              | This article contains my own opinions, not BNR's.
--                    | Bring back Trudeau!
cclau@nortel.ca       | (613)-763-8392


From jeffryj@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:48 EDT 1996
Article: 32209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jeffryj@azstarnet.com (Jeffry  Johnston)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: information on steel
Followup-To: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Date: 2 Aug 1996 17:02:57 GMT
Organization: StarNet
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Man, I really liked this post and don't want to detract from it
I just want to add to it.

: 5160 is also a pretty good choice because it has great impact
: resistance and a trace of chromium in it, which doesn't affect its
: impact resistance nor does it make it stainless...
: --
: Christopher Lau

I read where the main reason for the addition of chromium to automobile
springs (5160) was to improve it's resistance to fatigue cracks.

Vanadium is always thought of as being a grain refiner but chromium and
tungsten also do this when used in small percentages as in 5160 52100 
and in O1.  It just takes more Cr or W to do the same thing as V.  When
you use two alloys the effect is doubled.  Like in O1 .5% Cr plus .5% W
is equal to 2% of either Cr alone or 2% of W alone.

Check it out, can you find a better steel to make a straight razor 
>from  than F2?  (not including cost)

Alvin Johnston  <--Libertarian


From jeffryj@azstarnet.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:49 EDT 1996
Article: 32210 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jeffryj@azstarnet.com (Jeffry  Johnston)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Re: information on steel
Followup-To: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Date: 2 Aug 1996 17:07:17 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:7991 rec.crafts.metalworking:32210 rec.knives:10715

What's the difference between L1 and 52100E?

Alvin Johnston  <--Libertarian


From demirj@husc.harvard.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:50 EDT 1996
Article: 32211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Demirj <demirj@husc.harvard.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,ne.forsale,alt.forsale
Subject: FS.Christen Grinder W\Diamond Wheel
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 12:53:40 -0400
Organization: Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:32211 alt.forsale:1617

 Metal Cabinets. Made for the smallest Burgmaster Turret drill
with a drawer and a pump.$50

 One metal cabinet made by DU-All for surface plate,
size 22"x22"x28 high,(also it could be used as a bench for a 
bench model drill press) $30.  

 12"Wilder comparator with surface illuminator (1942 Mil. spec)$700.

 Christen  05-10 drill grinding machine capacity 
 .016 to .375 Swiss made $600.with Diamond wheel.










From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:51 EDT 1996
Article: 32212 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: 1 Aug 1996 22:00:52 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <09960701165836.OUI27.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <4too75$ci8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3200C362.59FD@ix.netcom.com> <4tqqkr$pud@ratty.wolfe.net>
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Since we get a catalog every year (maybe we are blessed), and everyone
seems to want one, I plan to announce here when we get our next one. 
I'll let you all know which one we have available, and how much it will
cost to send it to you (or you can pick it up<g>).  First one in will
get it.

Just hold out until the beginning of the year!
 

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LoganAct
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From tomgrant@primenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:52 EDT 1996
Article: 32213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom Grant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: alt.machines.cnc
Date: 2 Aug 1996 16:11:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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In article <31FD6446.363A@avci.net> Devere Sturm <wdsturm@avci.net> writes:
>From: Devere Sturm <wdsturm@avci.net>
>Subject: alt.machines.cnc
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:24:22 -0400

>Tom,    I too am interested this news group and it comes in just fine 
>from my server but at this point it is not very active. It only has 5 
>messages on it today and one is mine. Welcome!
>                               Devere Sturm

It takes a while before a newgroup is picked up and carried by most major 
service providers. I can remeber when it seemed like I was the only one that
could even SEE the group, about 4 months ago....


Tom

Hi-Tech Surplus 
http://www.hitechsurplus.com
Boise ID


From steamer@west.net Sat Aug  3 11:28:54 EDT 1996
Article: 32214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring Head results
Date: 2 Aug 1996 11:30:17 -0700
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: In article <4tqrit$a5t@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
: (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
: What a difference a little stiffness makes!
	--Hey, that's what *she* said! ;-)
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Just a loud fart 	
	COMING SOON		:	in the Elevator of Life...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From 74721.273@CompuServe.COM Sat Aug  3 11:28:55 EDT 1996
Article: 32215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Jack Geisler <74721.273@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: blacksmithing;forge size?
Date: 2 Aug 1996 23:56:37 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4tu4jl$8bf$1@mhafc.production.compuserve.com>

I recently went to a blacksmithing work shop and would like to 
build a forge.  Can anyone give me any suggestions?  I am not to 
sure how large it would need to be, I am goint to mostly be 
working on small stuff.  This will be more for a hobby than a 
business.  

Any suggestion pertaining to blacksmithing would be welcome, 
tools, anvils, ect.

Thanks,

Jack Geisler


From darylb@bnr.ca Sat Aug  3 11:28:56 EDT 1996
Article: 32216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkm52.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring Head results
Date: 1 Aug 1996 21:28:20 GMT
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In article <4tqrit$a5t@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

snip....
What a difference a little stiffness makes!

While you were discussing a bridgeport that is a good warning to all
mill/drill buyers

a mill/drill owner 8^(
Daryl

-- 
Clouds are high flying fogs.


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Sat Aug  3 11:28:57 EDT 1996
Article: 32217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!hunter.premier.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: phase ll indexers any good?
Date: 1 Aug 1996 06:58:46 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <4tpkj6$fn@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4tolhk$448@bucky.win.bright.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Jul 31 11:58:46 PM PDT 1996

In <4tolhk$448@bucky.win.bright.net> william tietz
<wmtietz@bucky.win.bright.net> writes: 
>
>msc sells phase ll indexers at a good price, are they any good, or are

>they junk? I'm looking hard at a palmgren indexer but the price of a
phase 
>ll has me in a "what to do mode" any advise would be helpful.
>
Phase II makes excellent and affordable equipment. Accuracy is good
enough for anything you are ever likely to do, price is right, and MSC
is one of the most reputable outfits that you'll ever deal with.

Ask for Paul Fritsch if you call and tell him that Jim Harvey from
Harvey Racing sent you. He'll treat you right.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From jesw@mitre.org Sat Aug  3 11:28:58 EDT 1996
Article: 32218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advice on bandsaw or cutoff saw sought
Date: 2 Aug 1996 20:58:50 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 6
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> It helps if one views it as a semi-finished kit of parts.  

Good comment.  Low end imported stuff is OK if you are comfortable buying
old, broken equipment and repairing it.  Don't buy it if you expect
everything to work.  At least the imported machinery isn't caked with
congealed lard oil.


From crome@students.uiuc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:28:59 EDT 1996
Article: 32219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crome@students.uiuc.edu (Julie Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Used Hand Tools Sources?
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 1996 00:15:09 GMT
Organization: Student- Vet Med
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I'm trying to find a Craftsman Stainless Steel 3/8" ratchet wrench.
They stopped selling them at Sears about 2 or 3 years ago. Mine was
recently stolen. I work in a lot of wet environments, so the stainless
is a definite plus. Any information is appreciated.




From glen@gbrmpa.gov.au Sat Aug  3 11:29:00 EDT 1996
Article: 32220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.mel.connect.com.au!news.mel.aone.net.au!usenet
From: Glen Harris <glen@gbrmpa.gov.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought Sherline stuff from Morton Machinery??
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 11:04:50 +1000
Organization: Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <32015432.1EE5E1E4@gbrmpa.gov.au>
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Robert Nichols wrote:
> 
> In article <00001f0c+00002e11@msn.com>,
> Dawn Fleming <Morton_Machinery@msn.com> wrote:
> :Our deal is still on for readers of rec.crafts.metalworking.  If you
> :are thinking of buying anything from Sherline, we are a dealer and
> :will offer you a 20% discount on all items, not including shipping,
> :handling and taxes. 
> :--- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Company, Inc.
> :Los Angeles, California
> :Visit us at www.mortonmachinery.com
> 
> I'm trying my darndest to figure out how to order a Sherline mill and
> associated accessories from Morton Machinery.  Their web page doesn't
> give any clue about how to order (the Sherline page is "under
> construction."), and my e-mail to <Morton_Machinery@msn.com> goes
> unanswered.  If the folks at Morton Machinery are trying to learn "how
> commerce works on the internet," someone should tell them that turning
> out the lights and locking the door when a customer approaches is _not_
> a particularly good way to start.
> 
> Has anyone successfully ordered Sherline equipment from Morton, or isn't
> this company for real?

  I bought a Lathe/Milling Attachment/etc from Morton last month.  There
was a bit of screwing around as they havn't done much internet business
and no international orders before, but when all was finished I had a 
fairly complete set up within two weeks of sending them my money.  I'll
be doing another order in a month or so for some accessories that I find
I need.  The prices are EXCELLENT, I got a complete set up of the 4410A,
Mill conversion and accessories for less than the base 4100 model here
in
Australia.

Morton's contact is Mark Rogo: morton@interserv.com , but the owner, 
Ted Robbins can be had at Morton_Machinery@msn.com.  Mark tends to go
on business trips every so often and no one looks at his email, but Ted
is computer literate.  In terms of customer relations they're a bit
slack, but the prices are worth putting up with it.

  As always, your mileage may vary.

glen.


From gedwards@onramp.net Sat Aug  3 11:29:01 EDT 1996
Article: 32221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New Club in Houston
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 15:03:30 -0500
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
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CC: George Carlson <geotek@accesscomm.net>

The Home Metal Shop Club has been formed in Houston, TX, and is now 
meeting on the 3rd Saturday of every month at 1:00pm, at the Oak Forest 
Library, 1349 W.43rd (at the intersection of Ella Blvd. and W43rd St. 
just north of Loop 610).  We currently have about 20 on the mail list 
and are still forming.  For more information, please call (713)723-8597 
or email to geotek@accesscomm.net....or respond to me by email.

George


From SLogan@gnn.com Sat Aug  3 11:29:03 EDT 1996
Article: 32222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: 2 Aug 1996 20:40:27 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
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Since we get a catalog every year (maybe we are blessed), and everyone
seems to want one, I plan to announce here when we get our next one. 
I'll let you all know which one we have available, and how much it will
cost to send it to you (or you can pick it up<g>).  First one in will
get it.

Just hold out until the beginning of the year!

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
   http://members.gnn.com/SLogan/homepage.htm
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com
 




From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Sat Aug  3 11:29:04 EDT 1996
Article: 32223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dial indicator accessory question...
Date: 3 Aug 1996 01:30:13 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <4tua35$5g4@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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>Is there anyplace I can look for proper usage of a dial indicator?  I've
>figured out how to use it to set and test all the woodworking tools I 
>intended to use it with, but I'll just bet there are other things I can 
>do with it that I haven't yet thought of...

Moltrecht's "Machine Shop Practice" is a two-volume reference that is
filled with lots of basics like this for measurement and using
various machines.

I also find that getting a Starrett catalog is quite enlightening. You
have to read between the lines a bit, but there is a gold mine of 
info there in the descriptions of the various devices.


From yarvin@cs.yale.edu Sat Aug  3 11:29:05 EDT 1996
Article: 32224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: yarvin@cs.yale.edu (Norman Yarvin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: safety glasses
Date: 1 Aug 1996 18:14:26 -0400
Organization: Yale Computer Science Department
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <4tra82INNili@HOBBES.NA.CS.YALE.EDU>
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A general tip for cleaning optics of all sorts:  It's not the cleaning
rag which makes the scratches, but rather the dirt embedded in the
rag.  Cleaning rags are too soft to scratch glass (or even most
plastics).  Dirt and grit is often hard, and makes scratches.  Thus, use
new cleaning tissues each time, and throw them away before they even
start looking dirty.

But even the above precaution will not work in the case of soft plastic
safety glasses which are heavily covered with grit.  As mentioned by
others, washing with soapy water helps here.


--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Sat Aug  3 11:29:06 EDT 1996
Article: 32225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Dial indicator accessory question...
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DvJCG2.G0I@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <4tr2gh$r5a@walters.East.Sun.COM>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 00:09:38 GMT
Lines: 25

In article <4tr2gh$r5a@walters.East.Sun.COM>,
Al Amaral - SunSoft Engineering <ama@marley.East.Sun.COM> wrote:
>It's an X shaped object, a post, with a second whatsit going through it.
>The whatsit has a ball on either end of two long cones, and can wobble to and
>fro on the dohicky...

It sounds like a "hole attachment" and usually comes with a dial test
indicator that has movement only in-and-out of the indicator body.
You mount it so that one end of the pivioting arm touches the
indicator stem and the other end presses against the work so that
movement of the work against the arm move the indicator stem.

>Is there anyplace I can look for proper usage of a dial indicator?  I've
>figured out how to use it to set and test all the woodworking tools I 
>intended to use it with, but I'll just bet there are other things I can 
>do with it that I haven't yet thought of...

Not that I'm aware of - nothing even in beginning machining texts I
have.  I suspect that it's supposed to be obvious, but it never is
for me.

-- 
Russ Kepler, at home	russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sat Aug  3 11:29:07 EDT 1996
Article: 32226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to make phase converters?
Message-ID: <1996Jul28.232020.24355@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 28 Jul 96 23:20:20 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <4tbqqg$9pe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, lisaclisac@aol.com (Lisaclisac) writes:
|>I know there has been alot of recent threads re phase converter
|>applications & troubleshooting. I've been following these but seek more
|>specific info on how to construct one using capacitors. I currently use
|>two 5 HP motors (for two different applications) to generate the third leg
|>and start these turning with "pony" motors. It would be nice (a luxury) to
|>flip a switch or close a contact to start the horses and get the ponys out
|>of the barn. (What it is when you are 30 miles from 3 phase).


Check out http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html

Jim


From jandrews@fohnix.metronet.com Sat Aug  3 11:29:08 EDT 1996
Article: 32227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jandrews@fohnix.metronet.com (Jerry Andrews)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing/cross peen hammer
Date: 1 Aug 1996 15:06:26 -0500
Organization: Texas Metronet, Inc  (login info (214/488-2590 - 817/571-0400))
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In article <31FF496E.B26@atc.alcoa.com>,  <cheney_ba@atc.alcoa.com> wrote:
>While we're on the subject, is there any difference 
>in nomenclature for cross peen hammers which have 
>the peen parallel to the direction of the handle, 
>vs. perpendicular?  Just curious....
>
>
>Brian

Perpendicular = "Cross Peen"
Parallel = "Straight Peen"

B*B!
Jerry = newbie blacksmith

"Gunther hit hot metal, make art, is good!"




From pdrumm@dwave.net Sat Aug  3 11:29:09 EDT 1996
Article: 32228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: safety glasses
Date: 1 Aug 1996 23:56:06 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 31
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In message <4tpmkt$h1@agate.berkeley.edu> -
tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu (Theodore Henry Phares)1 Aug 1996 07:33:49
GMT writes:
:->
:->Hi,
:->
:->Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the  lenses of plastic
:->safety glasses clean?  Each new pair I buy lasts only a couple weeks
:->before it goes foggy.
:->
:->It's easy enough to keep them clean when not in use...  Its when I'm
:->wearing them & oil & other garbage get on them that I have trouble--I
:->can't seem to clean them without putting fine scratches in the lenses.
:->  
:->Do higher priced glasses last longer?  Are there glasses available that
:->are resistant to scratches? 
:->
:->

I have prescription safety glasses, plastic lenses, which cost me
$180. Needless to say, I -don't- want them to get scratched(the last
ones only made it 3 months) so to clean them I use cotton balls and
lens tissue. Spray a little eyeglass cleaner on them, wipe it off
gently with a clean cotton ball, then dry with a lens tissue. If
there's a lot of dust, I blow them off first. This pair of glasses is
now 6 months old, and don't have a scratch in em yet.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:29:10 EDT 1996
Article: 32229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: (Q:) Castable Refractory Mixture
Date: 29 Jul 1996 13:11:19 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Try fire cement for repairing fireplaces. It is available at your local
hardware store. It hardens in DAYS and then it should be heated
SLOWLY unless documentation tells otherwise.
A better option (but only to obtain at refractory suppliers) is
alumina based refractory concrete. It is just like pre-mixed ordinary concrete
(you have to add only water) and withstands 1650 C.

Always check documentation before starting to build and before setting
'first fire' to it !

Klaas



From janders@oro.net Sat Aug  3 11:29:11 EDT 1996
Article: 32230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Rotary Indexer
Date: 2 Aug 1996 05:26:34 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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Ed,

There are programmable indexers that will do what you want. Some will allow indexing
upon closure of a remote switch, so a non-rotating tool could touch the switch to index.
They are not cheap however. MSC carries them. Hass and SMC are two brands that 
come to mind.
You might look into air powered index tables. A bit of scrounging and calling to surplus and 
used machinery dealers ought to turn one up. My previous employer scored one at an auction
for $100. (retail was over 3 grand, but it was a big heavy sucker)
An air valve could be plumbed same as an electrical switch, and just dwell on the switch long
enough to allow a full index. Benefit of this type is that they all use some sort of positive mechanical
lock to hold posision. A good one ought to handle anything you could throw at it.
The one my ex-boss got could be set for any number of indexs that would divide into 24 evenly.
Don't recall the brand name, but  a call to the factory revealed that BIC uses them for pen assembly.


 Jon


From klaas@uniface.nl Sat Aug  3 11:29:12 EDT 1996
Article: 32231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Carbon electrodes
Date: 29 Jul 1996 13:46:17 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Ordinary 4.5 Volts flat batteries for $2 each can be a good source.
They have 3 cells in it with a carbon rod (1/4" diameter, 3" length) each.
However, the rest is mainly MnO2 which could stain your clothes unwashably
and should be treated as hazardous waste. They work well for currents up to
150 A ,but are consumed rather quickly.

Graphite stirring rods available at jewelry supply shops do better.
They have less wear during usage and are environmentally friendly 
(no obsolete MnO2 waste).

I tried both with an electric AC 150 A welder and it really gets hot
(over 2000 C in the bath, 3000 C in the arc). Charcoal also works, but
is consumed VERY QUICKLY.
Using a graphite crucible as one electrode and a stick as the other seems
tempting, but the metal dissolves the crucible carbon easily.

There are a few BUTs:

- Arc is hard to control and sustain. It is easily be disrupted.
  Metal vapor may facilitate it (touch the metal when starting).
- Temperature hard to control.
- Amounts to be molten are minimal (max. 20 grams of iron @ 150 A)
- Virtually no refractory can withstand such temperatures (MgO is best)
  Even the 'high-temp grade' alumina melts and vaporizes easily.
- In carbon-dissolving metals (platinum group metals, including iron) the
  vaporized carbon dissolves which makes it brittle
- High vaporization losses of metal

But it melts cleaner than under an oxyfuel torch.
Check earlier postings on this (keyword "arc") it in this newsgroup.
If you have better experiences please email me.

NEVER LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE ARC WITH(OUT) ANYTHING BUT AN ARC WELDING MASK !!!
or the night after you'll sit upright in your bed with painful eyes and keep
both yourself and your wife/girlfriend from sleeping.

Check Don Klipstein's arc page:

http://www.misty.com/~don/carbarc.html

Klaas



From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Sat Aug  3 11:29:13 EDT 1996
Article: 32232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seeking more help, small diameter milling in soft alum.
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:16:04 GMT
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Paolo Zini (P.Zini@cnuce.cnr.it) wrote:

>: I have one small idea, not standard, not well tested but it can work for your
>: and a lot of other similar problem.
>: Can I try to explain?
>: OK there is a machining approach named ECM (electro chemical machining) ...
>: Be quiet! The only chemical involved is salt (NaCl)!
>: The method is the opposite of electroplating, you use one shaped electrode to
>: REMOVE metal, all is done by a low voltage electric current.
>: The method is used in manufacturing complex shapes, complex, expensive machines
>: are used a tipical ECM machine can work at 10,000 A or more.



>Are you sure this isn't some misunderstanding of EDM (Electrical Discharge
>Machining)?  
<SNIP>

ECM and EDM are different techniques. Paolo is completely right on the
subject. You can find these (briefly) explained in several books, e.g.
Machining Fundamentals, a (high school) text book by John Walker.

Regards, Honoré.



From ****@ix.netcom.com Rexford T. Hound Sat Aug  3 11:29:14 EDT 1996
Article: 32233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ****@ix.netcom.com Rexford T. Hound
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: McMaster Carr Responds
Date: 2 Aug 1996 12:44:46 GMT
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Who is MSC?   I have the McMaster Carr catalog.  It's only good for refference, their prices are
so far out of line that it is prohibative to purchase from them.  I am able to find what I need 
locally with a moderate amount of research.  Good luck.


						Ed



***************<<<<<<SNIPPED FROM PREVIOUS POST>>>>>>************

I know what you mean. I've had an account with this company for nearly 7
years and it took me a solid year to get a new catalog from them. MSC send
a catalog  automatically every year. Different business philosophies I
guess.

Bill Rittner



From miked@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug  3 11:29:15 EDT 1996
Article: 32234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: miked@worldnet.att.net (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie needs advice on mill choice for model airplanes, etc.
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:55:24 GMT
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chameleo@ix.netcom.com(Charles Harrison ) wrote:


>4. What milling equipment should I be considering? It seems that
>Sherline finds use in this area. Do they make the accessories I'll need
>for this, or will I have to go aftermarket? If so, who makes the best
>package?

Sherline has about any accessorie you could want. Check out their WEB
page or http/hre.com.

>Chip





From rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Sat Aug  3 11:29:17 EDT 1996
Article: 32235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rwilliam@coefac.engr.wisc.edu (Richard H. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:03:03 GMT
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In article <09960627105210.OUI62.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
>From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
>Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
>Date: 27 Jul 1996 16:00:45 GMT

>In article <31F9DC96.5C43@abrasha.com>, From Abrasha 
><abrasha@abrasha.com>, the following was written:
>> McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a 
>> penny of business, because of the way they treat potential customers.

>Your loss, we deal with them all the time, and never have any problems. 
>In fact, often if we make a mistake in ordering, our own fault, they
>will send a call tag, or tell us to keep it, and issue a credit anyway. 
> 

We do about $20K a year with McMaster-Carr and order almost daily.  MSC has a 
better selection of machine shop and related items.  But nobody comes close to 
Mc Master for general hardware , materials, fittings, mechanical components, 
etc.  We get overight delivery due to our location and have caught them out of 
stock on an item twice in 18 years! We also have trouble getting newer 
catalogs from them.  They are quirky this way, but with a 2952 page catalog 
(#102) they probably want to limit free distribution.  See if you can scrounge 
and old one.  I have ordered from them as an individual; got a quote; sent a 
personal check, no problem.  They say that their catalog is now available on 
CD-ROM, maybe this will help the smaller purchasers get access.





From steveobg@pulsenet.com Sat Aug  3 11:29:18 EDT 1996
Article: 32236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve -O <steveobg@pulsenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need threaded rod
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:32:41 -0400
Organization: PulseNET
Lines: 31
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To: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>

Abrasha wrote:
> 
> Aaaaarrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!
> 
> There is that name again, ... McMaster-Carr.  I had heard about them as a good place to
> do business with, so I called them for a catalogue.
> 
> What is it with these jerks?  After literally several months of calling for the damned
> thing I can't seem to wrestle one away from them.  Are they made of gold?
> 
> Every place I have ever called has been more than happy to send me one, and I do
> business with ALL of them, because they all have good deals on something or other at
> different times.
> 
> McMaster-Carr has quickly become a place I will NEVER EVER give a penny of business,
> because of the way they treat potential customers.
> 
> I hope this note somehow gets to someone over there.
> 
> Abrasha
> http://www.abrasha.com

I've had the same problem with Saturated Steam in miami lakes Fla.

 this seems a good place to make our problems with a supplier known.
hopefuly they will correct their ways...
-- 
  "It is useless for sheep to pass resolutions in
favor of vegetanarianism while wolves remain
of a different opinion."
           -William Ralph Inge, D. D. 1860 - 1954


From jhall@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Bloop maker, a shaggy dog story
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 13:35:45 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
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In article <5140u2$t65@news1.svc>,
   Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:

>Jones immediately threw the metal overboard where, when it hit the 
water,
>made a sound like BLOOP and promptly sank.
>
>That, my friends, is a Bloop.
>
We mustn't miss the historic perspective here. When I was doing 
archeology in Pennsylvania thirty years ago, we would find and bag up 
inummerable stones on our sites that we instructed the innocent high 
schoolers who worked for us were "Iroquois bloop stones". Obviously 
the concept of bloop predates the machine age. 
John


From filipo@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Filipovic <filipo@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Digital Caliper
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 13:41:25 -0600
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Hi all!
I need a non-plastic caliper that has both metric and inch readings. 
What is a good (inexpensive) mail order place to buy digital calipers in
the US? Where can I request catalogs?

Thanks!

Omar Filipovic


From chevin@faroc.com.au Fri Sep 27 15:59:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chevin@faroc.com.au (Ian R. Howcroft)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:39:35 GMT
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>I would like to know what peoples secrets are to getting a real smooth
>lathe turned finish. No matter what, if I use mild steel (yes I know
>it's crappy stuff for finish) I get a surface finish that shows tear
>marks. Yes, if I use a real sharp cutter with a large radius point and
>slow feeds I get a nice looking finish but when you take a magnifying
>glass to it ,it still shows tear marks. Even using brand new carbide
>inserts at high (or low) RPM gives this kind of finish.
>So, am I living in dream land or is it possible to get a finish that
>is 'as ground' ?
>I have got water soluble cutting oil on order as this is pretty much
>the only thing I haven't tried yet but I have my doubts about this
>having any major surface finish effect.

You will find that it will make a tremendous difference, as the oil in
the coolant will reduce any tearing.  That is it's purpose.  Many
years ago, I had to turn bearing journals on mild steel, and a  good
finish was essential - obviously.  The way I achieved this, was to
grind a tool with an angle about that used on h/s parting tools, which
ensured that the back of the parted off unit was clean with no pimple.
Now, if you have a tool ground like that - about three sixteenths
wide, instead of parting off with it, you use it to turn the diameter
on which you want your finish.  Keep revs to a minimum - it's not a
quick procedure - take a very light finishing cut and keep heaps of
coolant on it.  I must confess I have not examined the finish I
achieved with a magnifying glass because it was entirely satisfactory.
However, it was  finish that was very pleasing to the eye.  The tool
by the way was made from high speed steel.  If you have any difficulty
in understanding what I have said (and that wouldn't surprise me -
it's not the best bit of descriptive writing I have ever seen) please
feel free to contact me - chevin@faroc.com.au and I'll try to help you
further.
                              Best wishes.
                                                IRH.


>This whole issue came about when I was trying to produce a threaded
>rod on the lathe and got very ()*(&^ finish. I managed to improve the
>finish quite a bit but when you run your fingers over the threads it
>still feels rough/pointy because of the tearing. I realize the
>commercial screws are rolled and not cut but it would be nice to
>achieve that kind of finish.
>By the way, rigidity in my setup is not an issue !

>Jens

>By the way, on my previous question on modulus of elasticity I
>received a number of replies but none that explained the reasoning at
>a 'gut' level. In other words, I know how deflection is calculated etc
>but it just doesn't feel right at gut level (although I can certainly
>figure out deflection at the 'brain' level)
>Thank you to all the people that tried to sort out my gut. I guess I
>have to use my brains on this issue instead of my gut .....

>If any of this jibberish makes no sense than my apologies :)




From walter.preg@erlangen.netsurf.de Fri Sep 27 15:59:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Walter Preg <walter.preg@erlangen.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: How do you call this steel?
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Hi James,
Thanks to you and also to the other people who spent their time
and replied to my question regarding that steel names!
I need to know these English words in my job but unfortunately
I didn't found it in my dictionary. But with the help of r.c.m
I know it now.

Because you asked me for the German words I guess that unfortunately
I will not be a great help.
When I buy "Hot Rolled Steel" in a shop nearby I just ask for "steel".
I know it's not the right word but the only which I know and use.
But when I need a steel with a good surface I ask for a
  "kalt gewalzter Stahl"
= "Cold Rolled    Steel" or another known word for it is
  "blanker Stahl" which I would translate with
= "Blank   Steel"

Best regards, Walter


James Wilkins wrote:
> 
> > In the UK this would be called "bright" bar.
> Cold Rolled Steel in the US.
> 
> > This would be called "black" bar
> Hot Rolled Steel in the US.
> 
> There is also Silver Steel - UK / Drill Rod - US
> 
> What are these called in German?  My copy of Schlag Nach is far too old to
> help with modern technology.


From mr500cm@usa.pipeline.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: mr500cm@usa.pipeline.com(Mr500CM)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help ME Please!!!
Date: 14 Sep 1996 05:43:38 GMT
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I'm new to metalworking and I'm working with aluminum.I am making
photographic brackets and other items and need to learn about tapping new
threads. My first question is this: I need to have a 1/4-20 thread, how big
of a hole should I drill to tap this size. Actually there are other sizes
too but 1/4-20 is my main size. Is there a chart or a refernce book. 
 
Second I need a source for a good assortment of nuts & bolts and screws. I
used to see these great assortments real cheap and now that I need it I
can't find it. Any I deas where I can find them? 
 
Last question: I'm using aluminum bar stock, 1inch x 1/4 inch and I'm
currently paying $2.65 per foot. I'm not sure if this is a fair price, if
not I could use a good source in the New York City/Long Island area. 
 
Thanks so much. 
 
Lance


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish -part 2
Date: 12 Sep 1996 13:32:18 GMT
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Another bit to the smooth finish story.

I'm reviewing a video tape made in the Lawrence Livermore Laboratory's Machine Shops 
regarding machine accuracy.  There is much more to it than we could imagine.

However, regarding the issues of surface finish (they have a lathe that will make
aluminum mirrors for their fusion experiments in a single pass), they have quite a bit 
to say.  I'll be starting on a serialization of the information for our local engine 
modeler's club newwletter, The Crank Calls, Real Soon Now.

Some of the main points they make are:

1.  If you have a lot of vibration present, you cannot expect a good surface finish.
2.  In single-point cutting, workpiece imbalance will not degrade the surface finish.
3.  Diamond cutting tools, because of their sharpness, will cut sub-0.001" passes and
    not rub the surface of workpiece.
4.  Diamond cutting tools will not experience a build-up on their cutting edges that
    destroy (good) surface finish.
5.  Gear train noise in most lathes causes lots of problems in surface finish.

One has to remember that these guys are talking about mirror-like single-pass finishes 
in many cases.

They do show an old flat belt driven lathe with an overhead motor that was modified in 
a high school industrial arts class to cut a mirror finish.  The budget was $100.  The 
methods used were simple.

1.  They removed the overhead motor and isolated it from the lathe.
2.  The gear train was removed and a variable-speed motor was used to drive the
    leadscrew.  The connection from the motor to the leadscrew was a piece of rubber
    garden hose.

So, if you want to turn mirror finished salt and pepper shakers for your Aunt Rose,
those are some of the methods to use.

Look for more in the Metal Working WEb site.  YOu are contributing, aren't you?

Best regards,

MIke Rehmus



From scimone@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: scimone@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for die stamp supplier
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:02:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I'm trying to reproduce a piece in silver that uses a very unique
combination of die stamping. Would like to find a supplier of these
stamps.



From drewid@lanminds.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: 14 Sep 1996 17:58:12 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <51ernk$d5s@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <519esr$psd@matrix.eden.com>
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jher@news.eden.com \(jher) wrote:
>	Hello, I am interested in trying some casting of bronze, lead, etc.
>Can anyone recommend a good book to read on this subject?  Thanks.
>-- 
>jher@eden.com/jher@fnord.org
>http://www.fnord.org

There are a lot of books which say a little or a lot about bronze 
casting- look under "sculpture" in your local library- but I would
 strongly recommend finding a place where it is being done by someone 
experienced, watching, and asking questions before trying it at home.
 (A period of apprenticeship would be best.) There are a lot of little 
things which the books may or may not mention which can make the 
difference between good castings and serious bodily harm. Having said 
that, you might try Ron Young's books on ceramic-shell casting and 
patination, available from his company; Sculpt-Nouveau: 1-800-728-5787.
 Winston Harness has some information for prospective sand-casters 
posted on his page, which I have listed under "Resources" at my site
 (URL below). Also, you might try looking at the information I have 
provided under "Techniques of Sculpture".]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From randy@intnet.net Fri Sep 27 15:59:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Baked on finishes
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 23:10:27 -0700
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I'm aware of powder coating.  I've been told that its an infra red
heat cure process.  I make soldered sheet metal parts and the melting 
temp of the solder is about 400 degrees. Is there a powder coat 
that will cure at this temperature?
	Also, what is the "baked on" appliance enamel?  Is this the same
thing or a different product? What temp does this stuff cure at?
Thanks for any info you can give me.
Clint


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 15:59:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: soldering
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References: <516ev7$j04@mack.rt66.com>  
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:47:32 GMT
Lines: 35


Use some silver bearing solder, and do a geed job of washing the flux out 
( Zink chloride ). 


In a previous article, colinml@rt66.com (Colin Montoya-Lewis) says:

>et
>From: Colin Montoya-Lewis <colinml@rt66.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: soldering
>Date: 11 Sep 1996 13:31:19 GMT
>Organization: Rt66.COM, Public Internet Access in New Mexico
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>
>Hi all,
>My wife asked me to solder a leak in an electric tea kettle, and I am 
>wondering if there are any potential problems with doing this, like lead 
>in solder or the heat of the kettle simply remelting the solder?
>
>Thanks,
>Colin
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 15:59:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Welding lead
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References: <323617de.4749139@news.demon.co.uk>  
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:02:38 GMT
Lines: 38


You can just melt the edges together.  My maternal grandfather could do 
this with a plumbers blowtorch!  The blowtorches ( Blowlamps ) used here were
fueled with white gasoline ( Naptha ), kerosene ( Paraffin ) was rarely 
used as a fuel.  As a young lad I saw him make the bottom of a lead tank, 
with only the torch, a hammer, & tin snips.  In less than an hour he 
sitting in a tank bottom, with walls 2 feet high, ready for the next ring!



In a previous article, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) says:

>si.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
>From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Welding lead
>Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:19:32 GMT
>Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
>Lines: 7
>Message-ID: <323617de.4749139@news.demon.co.uk>
>Reply-To: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
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>X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227
>
>Any advice on welding lead ?  It's lead sheet, used to make shaped
>roof flashing panels. My first thought was to make wiped solder
>joints, using plumber's solder  (I can do this), but I'm told that
>lead can be welded quite easily with an oxy-acetylene torch.  (sounds
>a little odd IMHO)
>
>Any advice ?
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 15:59:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
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References: <515f2f$qrs@ratty.wolfe.net> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51423s$mmk@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:45:23 GMT
Lines: 45


Actually, the US gallon, is the old Imperial gallon.  Somewhere in the 
last century, the Imperial gallon was changed to rationalise it with a 
given weight of water at standard temp. & pressure.  My foggy memory says 
it is 10 Lb. of water.

In Canada we are partly metric.  Fluids, including gasoline ( Petrol ) 
are sold in liters.  Cars have metric fasteners, and speedometers.  
Temperatures are now given in celsius ( Centigrade ).  All other changes were
resisted by the populace, so a lot of food is sold by the pound, and the 
cash register computes the price in dollars per Kg.  Hmmm, all of the 
canned goods are in smaller cans, but at a higher price.  We now seem to 
have a lot of goods in US containers, labeled in " Soft metric ".  The 
telescopes at the observatory here are now signed in metric, but there 
isn't a metric screw in them!



In a previous article, josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) says:

>In <51423s$mmk@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>
>>I think it's officially called the "Imperial" system.
>
>Not in the U.S. -- some Imperial units aren't the same as their
>U.S. equivalents.  Gallons come to mind -- my outboard motor's
>gas tank is old enough to have its capacity listed in both U.S.
>and Imperial gallons  (Impreial gallon = 1.20 U.S. gallons, thus
>the standard 6 gallon outboard motor gas tank, 5 Imperial gallons,
>so that in both systems you use whole gallons when figuring out
>how many ounces of oil to add at X oz per gallon.)
>
>Bushels are different between U.S. and Imperial systems, too, as
>are hundredweights, and of course there are three types of tons.
>
>--
>
> Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
>                       "My other bike is a car."                   
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From scannon1@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: scannon1@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Chop saws to cut masonary?
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 03:43:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I'm thinking of buying a chop saw and I could justify the purchase if
I could use it occasionally to cut masonary such as brick, tile, or
terra cotta. Of course I'd use a masonary wheel instead of the metal
cutting wheel. There's no mention pro or con in the manuals of the
saws I've considered. Does anybody have any experience or thoughts on
this matter?
Thanks.



From Van_Baker@hp-loveland-om10.om.hp.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!news.lvld.hp.com!news
From: Van Baker <Van_Baker@hp-loveland-om10.om.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Smithy mill-drill-lathe combo
Date: 12 Sep 1996 20:59:59 GMT
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To: van_baker@hp.com

Hi, all

I'm a relative newbie at precision metals, about to start up as a hsm.
I've been getting the Smithy catalog for some time, and like what I see
about the 1220XL (realizing the lower convenience of a combo machine,
but having space and budget limitations).

Question is, does anyone have good/bad experiences with the equipment/
service?

Thanks for any help!
Van



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Fri Sep 27 15:59:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: 12 Sep 1996 14:25:33 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
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rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2) wrote:
>In article <50ps8s$sbh@lemon.easynet.co.uk>, Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris
>Heapy) writes:
>
>> hence the advantage of setting the topslide over to half
>>thread angle and just using one cutting edge on the tool, this way you
>>can add top-rake to the cutting edge greatly improving the finish.
*********>
>This is the first time that I have heard of setting the tool to half the
>thread angle in threading. Is the tool ground differently other than the
>top rake? If not, I don't see how you get the 60 degree thread angle.
>Please give us more information on this technique.


The current issue of HSM (September/October) contains a letter to the editor 
entitled "Where's the Tangent" by Jim Canner, who, like the original respondent, is 
also from the UK. (Is this method unique to the UK?) Canner explains this technique 
in some detail. As I understand it, the included angle of the tool can be anything 
just so that it is less than the included angle of the thread. Canner notes that a 
tool with a 45 degree included angle can be used to cut 47.5, 55 and 60 degree 
threads. By this technique, the tool's leading edge does all the work and the 
trailing edge does nothing so you give the leading edge all the rake and clearance. 
The set up is as follows: the compound is set at the half angle of the tread (only 
the compound is used feed the tool) and the leading edge of the tool is then set at 
the correct angle to the work piece with the usual thread gage (the trailing edge of 
the tool does nothing so ignore it). The thread is then cut in the usual fashion.  
Canner claims this method leaves a finish so good that it "has to be seen to be 
appreciated". Canner also notes that threads cut in this fashion are V-form rather 
than radiused, but for most applications this is of no consequence. 

Sounds like a good technique to me and I intend to try it the next time I cut a 
thread.

Roger Weppelman 



From seafish1@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:50 EDT 1996
Article: 34671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: seafish1@ix.netcom.com(Charles Fish)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stewart's International School for Jewelers
Date: 15 Sep 1996 06:33:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 6
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Sep 15  1:33:29 AM CDT 1996

Stewart's International School for Jewelers is proud to announce its
new Internet page at:
           http://members.aol.com/seafish1/stewart.htm
You are welcome to stop by for a visit.
Providing education for diamond setting, jewelry repair and gold
casting.


From brzozoww@rchland.vnet.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:52 EDT 1996
Article: 34672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brzozoww@mycroft.endicott.ibm.com (Wesley Brzozowski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Off The Wall_Stuff In Old Magazines
Date: 12 Sep 1996 14:02:32 GMT
Organization: IBM Rochester MN
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51955o$roe@news.rchland.ibm.com>
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Reply-To: brzozoww@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
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In article <quartlowDxL091.8Ds@netcom.com>, quartlow@netcom.com (Len Turnbow) writes:
|> : I've been thinking about doing something like this with 
|> : my own collection for
|> : some time now. While I don't have a lot of free time, 
|> : a project like this one
|> : would be worth putting a good bit of that free time into. 
|> : This would be especially true if it meant getting my hands 
|> : on other people's article lists, as I greatly value my own 
|> : list of pointers and would treasure additional ones.
|> (Snip)
|> 
|> Does the 'Index of Periodical Literature' at the local library
|> contain the citations you need?

A reasonable idea; it could supply some of our information, in time. However,
many of the old magazines contain numerous subtopics in a monthly column. We
could find a citation for the columns in the index, but not the
subtopics, themselves. Nevertheless, your question does have much merit in
the long term. At present, we don't even have a list of likely topics to be
covered by such a list. Once a list were created, and the list of topics 
reasonably stable, it might be possible for a group  of individuals to go
through 80-90 years' worth of Indices, looking to fill in gaps that
we've missed on those topics.

But right now, there are lists in the hands of various collectors, representing
many, many hours of research that's already been done. They represent articles
or subtopics in a column that have been seen and judged worth going back to.
Admittedly, individual judgements are very subjective, but given a volume of
information that's so huge, and given the fact that most of us don't have the
spare time to check everything out there, it helps narrow the odds of finding
a winner. We want to collect whatever of those lists as may be made available
and compile them into something useful. Those lists will also contain references
to books, and one e-mail has suggested expanding it to other sources, like
videos, URLs, or whatever else. These all need to be discussed.

That's not to discourage your thought in any way. If someone wants to volunteer
for such an enormous job, once the list is large enough that we have a good
handle on its scope and so have defined the topics it covers, we'll be grateful
to put 'em to work.

At the moment, I don't know what's going to happen with the list. There have
been a couple of offers of help, and I'm very interested in producing 
something. Depending on the information that's contributed and what various
people are willing to do, the list could end up big or small. I hope it will
become big enough that we'll use your suggestion. Thanks for mentioning it.

Wes B. 

-- 

*****************************************************************************
*  Wes Brzozowski                 *                                         *
*  brzozoww@rchland.vnet.ibm.com  *                                         *
*  wesb@vnet.ibm.com              *                                         *
*****************************************************************************


From poachedf@netcom.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:53 EDT 1996
Article: 34673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!news.bc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!netcom.com!poachedf
From: poachedf@netcom.com (Bob Kepler)
Subject: Re: small amounts of titanium rounds
Message-ID: <poachedfDxqMvu.MDJ@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
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References: <501rpj$gha@lynx.unm.edu> <tap17-2808961518530001@vny0133.deltanet.com> <efeist-1009961003500001@news.northcoast.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 19:45:30 GMT
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Sender: poachedf@netcom8.netcom.com

P.Feist (efeist@northcoast.com) wrote:

: > In article <501rpj$gha@lynx.unm.edu>, cballen@unm.edu (Carl B. Allen) wrote:
: > 
: > > I've been asked to make special bolts of titanium for a bicycle nut.
: > > My local supplier has an outrageous minimum order for this stuff
: ($400) and I 
: > > was wondering if any one could help me with a source.
: > > I need about a foot of 3/4" diameter (6A4LV ?).
: > > Thanks in advance.
: > 

: Hi;

:    I missed the original post of this question, but if you are still
: looking; I would highly recommend that you contact Robin Materials; 
: ( http://www.rmat.com ).  
:    They are willing to ship itty bitty quantities to those of us that
: don't need a truckload. 
:    Also, they have the darnest stuff in addition to every variety of
: Titanium alloy that I have ever heard of, including 6AL4V. Tantalum,
: Tungsten-Rhenium (used in atomic bombs!) and weird stuff like Invar
: (Nickel alloy, I think??).
:    I bought some titanium roundstock last year from them and they were
: very helpful and willing to ship two ten inch long pieces (one 3/8" round,
: one 3/4"). SInce I don't have a clue what titanium is worth, I don't know
: if the thirty five dollars I paid was a good deal or not. It *was* the
: only place I found that would sell me that little.

: Hope this helps;
: Paul Feist
: Paladin Gun Repair
: (Will Gunsmith for Food...)
-- 
                                             poachedf@netcom.com


From pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us Fri Sep 27 15:59:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Phillip DeBrito <pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:45:55 -0500
Organization: Educational Service Unit
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CC: pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us

I have an older SB 9" Lathe my father bought, then gave to me several
years ago.  It was one of the whims my dad had, but he never got around
to learning how to use it.  

My questions are...


I would like to tune it up and find sources for parts and maybe manuals,
where and how do I start?  

How do I find out what year it was made?

I've got the Metalworking FAQ so I have the addresses, but who do the
users of this newsgroup prefer for tooling sources?


Thanks ahead of time!

Phil DeBrito
Beginner At Large


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone going to IMTS (second try)
Date: 12 Sep 1996 14:59:55 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <09960812094056.OUI84.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <09960806082824.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com> <514vosINN6h8@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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In article <514vosINN6h8@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, From 
knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell), the following was written:
> This wasa very nice and generous commentary.  Especially from
> someone whose company is in competition with the subject in
> question.  You do still make lathes if I am not mistaken.  My
> applause!

Hey, I calls 'em likes I sees 'em!  Actually, we are not in direct
competition, since we don't build the Logan Lathe at present.

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/12/96 09:59
 http://www.loganact.com




From pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us Fri Sep 27 15:59:56 EDT 1996
Article: 34676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!info.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.ltec.net!news.nde.state.ne.us!usenet
From: Phillip DeBrito <pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:57:25 -0500
Organization: Educational Service Unit
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CC: pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us

I am considering buying a JET JMD-18PF Mill/Drill. My intentions are to
do some auto head refurbishing (decking, valve jobs/porting, valve guide
replacement, block decking and honing), woodworking, and general
metalworking hobbying. (perhaps a little machine work jobs on the side
too).

If anyone has any first or second hand experience with JET or JET mills,
please, post it.  I'm really tired of buying crap. And I'm really scared
of buying an older mill, because I have ZERO knowledge of what is good
and what I have to spend double what I paid to refurbish it.

Thanks Ahead of Time!

Phil DeBrito
Beginner At Large


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 15:59:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Buyers Mart
Message-ID: <1996Sep12.091534.24958@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 12 Sep 96 09:15:34 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <50s1uu$ptf@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <50vs1a$ebl@parlor.hiwaay.net> <32371080.6747A8D7@isis.interpac.net>
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In article <32371080.6747A8D7@isis.interpac.net>, Lynn Holt <lholt@isis.interpac.net> writes:
|>	Could you plesae tell me who MSC is. I can't seem to find them on the
|>net so I'm looking for an 800 number
|>
|>Lynn Holt
|>lholt@interpac.net
|>Running Linux on the Big Island of Hawaii

>From  the FAQ:


   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.  The catalog is free.


From dmauch@seanet.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stepper Motors from Alternators??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:50:33 -0700
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <32383149.4074@seanet.com>
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I read an article in Nuts and Volts magazine a lonmg time ago. On the 
surface it seemed like an excellent idea. Then I started thinking about 
it. If there a 50 poles in a stepper motor and they get 200 steps per 
revolution how many steps would you get from a alternator, 4,6 or maybe 
even 12. I discarded the thought of making one.
Dan


From jher@news.eden.com Fri Sep 27 15:59:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jher@news.eden.com (jher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bronze casting
Date: 12 Sep 1996 11:48:27 -0500
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	Hello, I am interested in trying some casting of bronze, lead, etc.
Can anyone recommend a good book to read on this subject?  Thanks.
-- 
jher@eden.com/jher@fnord.org
http://www.fnord.org


From pdbsf+@pitt.edu Fri Sep 27 16:00:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdbsf+@pitt.edu (Paul Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: electoplating components
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:46:45 -0500
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Lines: 9
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NNTP-Posting-Host: gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu

Hope this is the appropriate news group for this question... I'd like to
try electroplating silver (or maybe zinc/tin) onto steel.  I'm familiar
with the theory, I just can't seem to find a sources for electrolytes. 
Can someone refer me to a distributor ? 

Thanks in advance,

Paul Baker
pdbsf+@pitt.edu


From mcnair@bnr.ca Fri Sep 27 16:00:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling Cast Iron
Date: 12 Sep 1996 13:32:00 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
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Distribution: world
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:152325 rec.crafts.metalworking:34681


In article <51935u$luo@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>, mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair) writes:
|> 
|> In article <3236B9D4.20B8@cyberhighway.net>, Russ <russcwv@cyberhighway.net> writes:
|> |> I know the smart thing to do is to NOT try to drill cast iron but I'm
|> |> doing some work on a bandsaw and need to drill about a 3/16th inch hole.
|> |> Very tough going with my standard twist drill bits. Do we have any
|> |> machinists who can give me advice? 
|> 
|> 
|> I think drills for cast iron are ground to a lower angle.
|> I have cross-posted this to rec.crafts.metalwork;
|> someone there will be able to a better answer your 
|> question.
|> 
|> 
|> 

Correction: rec.crafts.metalworking
                                ^^^


From smega@en.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:03 EDT 1996
Article: 34682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!en.com!usenet
From: Ed Smega <smega@en.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:54:24 -0700
Organization: Exchange Network Services
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Eugene N. Neigoff wrote:
> 
> I am posting this message as a warning to anyone purchasing items from
> ENCO MANUFACTURING CO.
> 
> The have a little SCAM which I for one find very fraudulant.
> 
> If you purchase in person items and they dont have them in stock, they
> will without telling you "BACK ORDER" them and ship them to you without
> your approval.  Then they expect top be paid for the item and the
> shipping costs.  This has happened to me and I am going to let everyone
> know that this practice is very expensive.  Items are shipped
> individually via UPS and they expect payment.


I have not had that problem here in Cleveland.  They ask me how I want 
the back order handled - giving me the choice of coming back to the store 
to pick it up or having it shipped to my home.  I am not certain about 
this but I beleive there was not a charge for shipping to my home.

Ed Smega


From Chrish@easynet.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:00:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:40:35 GMT
Organization: [posted via] Easynet Group PLC
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <519att$pv8@cherry.news.easynet.net>
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Very briefly it's simply a matter of setting the the topslide to 30
deg (for a 60 deg. inc. angle thread), with the tool still set at
right angles to the work of course, and using the topslide to feed the
tool into the work. The tool will follow the angle of the right-hand
land of the thread whilst just cutting on the left hand side (for
normal threads). There are many variations and modifications on this
theme and most are covered in Geo. H. Thomas' book "The Model
Engineers Workshop Manual" ISBN 1-85761-000-8 from TEE publishing,
which I highly reccommend.

Chris

>In article <50ps8s$sbh@lemon.easynet.co.uk>, Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris
>Heapy) writes:

>> hence the advantage of setting the topslide over to half
>>thread angle and just using one cutting edge on the tool, this way you
>>can add top-rake to the cutting edge greatly improving the finish.

>This is the first time that I have heard of setting the tool to half the
>thread angle in threading. Is the tool ground differently other than the
>top rake? If not, I don't see how you get the 60 degree thread angle.
>Please give us more information on this technique.




From sherrick@slonet.org Fri Sep 27 16:00:06 EDT 1996
Article: 34684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!tezcat!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.callamer.com!spork.callamer.com!sherrick
From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Baked on finishes
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 22:52:33 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.960914224803.1825C-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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To: Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net>
In-Reply-To: <323A4C53.6AE0@intnet.net>

I worked for a guitar (steel body) manufacturer that had their guitars
powder coated. If you can go with a slightly high mlting temp you will be
better off. The powder coat wi applied at alittle bit above (as best I can
remember) 425 deg. F. For more info you can call San Luis Powder Coating
and get more details. They have found several colors that just would not
work. The problem is the high temps melt the solder and leave a depresion
in the powder coat that shows up pretty easily...
If you need their phone # email me...

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, Randy Knott wrote:

> I'm aware of powder coating.  I've been told that its an infra red
> heat cure process.  I make soldered sheet metal parts and the melting 
> temp of the solder is about 400 degrees. Is there a powder coat 
> that will cure at this temperature?
> 	Also, what is the "baked on" appliance enamel?  Is this the same
> thing or a different product? What temp does this stuff cure at?
> Thanks for any info you can give me.
> Clint
> 
> 



From ipd@iplant.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!news.aimnet.com!news
From: imagination plantation <ipd@iplant.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ForSale:GTAW(TIG) Precision Welding System.
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:02:29 -0800
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
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FOR SALE:  GTAW(TIG) Precision Welding System

This like-new System includes the following:

	-Miller MAXSTAR 90 Hand Portable, Constant Current DC Inverter Welding
Power Source
	  runs on household 110!
	-Miller Snap-Start High Frequency Arc Starter (Mounts under MAXSTAR
unit.)
	-Miller PC-300 Pulser control (SWEET bead, SUPER penetration!)
	-Miller RFC-14 Foot Control Pedal.
	-Complete TIG torch assembly and hoses.

This unit is perfect for high-precision, high quality TIG welding.  
Being an inverter, it allows for the highest possible control.
I have successfully welded materials at wall thinknesses of 18
thousandths.

Asking $2000 o.b.o.
($2600 new) 

If interested please call or e-mail me:
Ben,  at Imagination Plantation:
(415)487-0841.
ipd@iplant.com
San Francisco, California, USA
-- 
-------------------------------------------
Imagination Plantation
-------------------------------------------
V: (415)487-0841
F: (415)431-2103
E: ipd@iplant.com
W: www.iplant.com
-------------------------------------------
"...stickin' up the stickup kids..."
                - Raekwon the chef


From blake@ncweb.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mem.bellsouth.net!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!en.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: blake@ncweb.com (Blake Malkamaki)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 16:59:19 +0100
Organization: Little Mountain Ironworks
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <blake-1409961700060001@206.84.2.91>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <511qe2$gou@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-42.ncweb.com

}all of their automobiles are 99.9% metric.  The only non-metric
}thread on my '92 car, to my knowledge, is the spark plug.
}
}Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)

We (Americans) have used metric size spark plugs since the 40's.  Long
before anything else went to it on automobiles.

Blake Malkamaki, Little Mountain Ironworks, Concord, Ohio <blake@ncweb.com>
>>Steam engines - Cletrac Crawler Tractors - Maple Syrup - Silhouette Metal Signs - "Tall Tall Birds" - Ostriches: The Better Red Meat<<
http://www.ncweb.com/users/blake


From poppke@plains.nodak.edu Fri Sep 27 16:00:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: poppke@plains.nodak.edu (David L Poppke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "Black Jack" Keen Cutter Anvil
Date: 15 Sep 1996 02:43:44 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network (NDHECN)
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I found a Black Jack Keen Cutter Anvil made by Hay-Budden.

Can any one tell me much more about this anvil?

It seems to be a very rare Anvil.

Has anyone else ever saw one of these before?

--

David Poppke, WA0VFY                Email:       poppke@plains.nodak.edu
1418 Burntwood Court                Home Phone:  701-746-7841
Grand Forks, North Dakota 58201     24 Hr Fax:   701-777-3650


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:00:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Aluminum?
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:53:07 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960912144146.29777A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
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In-Reply-To: <323838F7.3DB1@lanl.gov> 

I would suggest that you cut the 1/2" aluminum plate on a bandsaw (speeds
for wood are generally okay for aluminum) instead of a table saw.  Cut the
throat by drilling small, closely spaced holes around the INSIDE of the 3"
diameter throat, then break or saw through the spaces between the holes,
clean up with files (finishing rasps of files work well for fast stock
removal of aluminum).  The ledge for the Lexan insert can be made on your
router table with a rabbitting bit (ball bearing type) and light cuts. 

People have gotten away with using end mills in drill presses and seem to
be very proud of the fact that they have survived, but the fact of the
matter is that drill press spindles are not made for the side loads seen
in milling.  In addition, if your drill chuck pops out of the taper in the
middle of the cut, it can be a very eye-opening experience... 
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, Adam Whiteson wrote:

> I am a woodworker who occasionally needs to work pieces of aluminum.
> Right now I need to make an inset plate for a router table out of
> 1/2" aluminum. The plate will be 10"x12" with a 3"dia circular
> throat cut out of the center.  The throat needs a ledge to
> support a 3" Lexan insert.
> 
> My plan is to cut the rectangle with a table saw and then 
> machine the throat on a drill press using a 3/8" mill end.
> KBC has mill ends for aluminum.
> 
> Will this plan work?  I'd appreciate any comments.
> 
> 
>             Thanks - Adam
> 
> 


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:12 EDT 1996
Article: 34689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 13 Sep 1996 05:15:42 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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I do believe there is another supplier in Canada.  Frank McLean gave
me a catalog from them (I don't know what I did with it).  They appear
to have quite a nice stock of supplies and what have you.

Does anyone here know the name?  Yellow trimmed catalog.  Name reminds
me of busy bee or some such affiliation.

Anyway, Frank, who as you know, is a real contributor to the hobby likes
their stuff and, at one time, made bits and pieces for them (I think I
remember).

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:13 EDT 1996
Article: 34690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Turret Lathe
Date: 12 Sep 1996 21:04:00 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <519ts0$el1@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ren-nv2-14.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 12  4:04:00 PM CDT 1996

Hi All;

The machine listed below is probably a bit large for the average home
shop, and is basically a production oriented machine, but I thought
there might be someone in the group that could use it.  It has been a
good low to medium volume production machine for us until recently but,
like me, too old and slow for environment in which we now find
ourselves.

Gisholt No. 5 Turret Lathe (1941 model) and Bar Feed
Excellent Condition - Currently Under Power (Tom Swift please note).
19" over ways, 17.75" over carraige, 10.75" over cross slide.
10" 3 jaw chuck, A1-8 spindle nose, 2.5 dia. (max.) collet closer.
8 station turret (for 1.75 dia. tooling), 4 way toolpost, some tooling,
various collet pad sets, manual of machine ass'y drawings.
10 H.P., 230/460 V., 3 Phase motor, mag. starter
102" x 44" footprint (bar feed adds 9 ft.  to length), 4200 Lbs.
$2400 O.B.O., buyer pays shipping costs (from Reno, NV)

Regards,
Dale

D & L Tool Works
Tel.  702-825-2011
Fax. 702-825-2016
e-mail dakeltie@ix.netcom.com




From xcprhb@oryx.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.eng.convex.com!news.oryx.com!xcprhb
From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 12 Sep 1996 18:50:08 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 46
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <519m10$e4n@lm1.oryx.com>
References: <32364B68.643E@interaccess.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

On my first trip to the local ENCO store several years ago I purchased
a number of hand files of various sizes and types.  Not knowing any 
better at the time.  I allowed them to ship them from another location.

I paid for everything at that time.

As it turned out, they were NOT in stock at the other locations and
were automatically back ordered.  For the next 6-9 months I would
occasionally find another UPS package at my door w/ 1 or 2 files in
it.  They never charged me a penny for the shipping which cost more
than the contents in almost every instance.

Since I did not particularly need any of the files, I was not troubled
by the mess, though I was a bit annoyed that I'd paid for the stuff and
it took so long to acutally get it.

Now I simply verify that it is in stock first.  No stock, no purchase.
I usually look at first things anyway since the quality can vary wildly.

I think people should remember that it costs money to operate a business.
ENCO & MSC sell much of the same stuff and ENCO is often substantially
cheaper.  Given the sometimes hilarious ineptitude of the ENCO staff
I've dealt with and the high turnover, I suspect the real differential
is the employee salaries.  You get what you pay for, and part of what
you're paying for is the employees.  I've been insulted, told not to buy
what I wanted and various other annoyances.  If I were in the metal
working business, I'd probably never use ENCO because of the hassles.
As it's only a hobby, I can take the idiocy in stride. Case in point was a
bill I received for balance due on a transaction in which I'd returned an
item and bought something else.  Supposedly I'd paid the difference in full
at the time.  I was annoyed and planned to protest.  Then I refigured the
bill myself and saw that they were billing me ~$6.00 on a transaction in
which the clerk's ineptitude had cheated them of almost $20.00.  At that 
point I just laughed and sent them the check for the amount they requested.

Have fun!

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From bairdo@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!orl-fl7-05.ix.netcom.com!user
From: bairdo@ix.netcom.com (James Baird)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:20:15 -0400
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <bairdo-1209961520160001@orl-fl7-05.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: orl-fl7-05.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 12  2:20:51 PM CDT 1996

In article <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>,
pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us wrote:

> I have an older SB 9" Lathe my father bought, then gave to me several
> years ago.  It was one of the whims my dad had, but he never got around
> to learning how to use it.  
> 
> My questions are...
> 
> 
> I would like to tune it up and find sources for parts and maybe manuals,
> where and how do I start?  
> 
> How do I find out what year it was made?
> 
> I've got the Metalworking FAQ so I have the addresses, but who do the
> users of this newsgroup prefer for tooling sources?
> 
> 
> Thanks ahead of time!
> 
> Phil DeBrito
> Beginner At Large

There is no end of help available to you.  You will find a serial number
on the lathe bed down at the tailstock end.  Call the customer service guy
at South Bend Lathe - Ralph - at 800-245-2843.  He will tell you the
month/year the machine was shipped out of the factory; maybe even to
whom.  While you are talking to him, ask him to send you a parts breakdown
booklet on the 9".  It'll cost you +/- $20.  

If you are new to the hobby, also ask for a copy of "How to Run a Lathe"
-= another $10.  Old, but good.

Once you have these, you can go to work.  If the machine is operational,
my suggestion would be that you lube it well & run it.  Use it and you
will find out if it needs work (and where) - or just a clean-up and paint
job.

Parts are easy.  Try Dave Ficken at Meridian - 516-956-1442 - or Sobel -
201-768-9645 or Joe Bergamo at Plaza Machinery.  You will find Dave and
Joe on thi list.  Both helpful, pleasant guys with whom I have done
business; and can recommend.

I have rebuilt several 9's and 10's - so if you get stuck, drop me a note.


From adam@lanl.gov Fri Sep 27 16:00:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov!newshost.lanl.gov!usenet
From: Adam Whiteson <adam@lanl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:19:46 -0700
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32384632.1FBD@lanl.gov>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51423s$mmk@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <515feb$tk1@ratty.wolfe.net>
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To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com

Joshua_Putnam wrote:
> 
> This was also the reasoning behind many non-decimal currencies:
> before calculators, multi-radix systems were much more convenient
> for everyday calculations, no need for long division or rounding
> in most cases.

I dont buy this.  The imperial weights and measures system was a
conglomeration of historical conventions that more or less just
happened.  No one designed it for convenience.  Tis true that
240 (# pennies in a pound - before the UK went metric) is divisible
by more factors than 100 but even the worst system has some advantage.

As a child in the UK I spent two years of my life learning to do
long multiplication and long division in pounds shillings and
pence.  I also mastered yards, rods furlongs, pecks bushels
hundredweights and much more arcania.  

I recall that apart from cashiers and shopkeepers, most
people were not competent doing elementary calculations with
money.  There was a lot of guessing and a lot of mistakes.
Not being able to divide a cent three ways is a small price
to pay for a system that is easy to use.

Don't forget that machinists like carpenters belong to that
small section of the population whose work requires a certain
skill with numbers.  Most people, even before calculators,
could not handle much more than the simplest calculations.

When I returned to the UK for a visit in 1980 they had 
switched to the metric system.  My hard earned skills
at manipulating all these awkward units are totally 
worthless!

                       Adam


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:17 EDT 1996
Article: 34694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: 12 Sep 1996 19:53:50 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <519poe$ij9@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us> <bairdo-1209961520160001@orl-fl7-05.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com


	Call the customer service guy
	at South Bend Lathe - Ralph - at 800-245-2843.  He will tell you the
	month/year the machine was shipped out of the factory; maybe even to
	whom.  While you are talking to him, ask him to send you a parts breakdown
	booklet on the 9".  It'll cost you +/- $20.  

Ralph is a good guy, and has been very helpful in our research on
FrankenLathe. Ask him to send you a copy of the lathe's "serial card",
which records all the part and unit numbers on the lathe.

However, what they currently ship as a parts book for the 9" is not 
really very good, especially for the older 9". Someone has taken the 
lovely old line drawings and redrawn them on one of those damned computer 
things; the parts book is a so-so reproduction of printout with not 
enough resolution - lots of jaggies. The only thing good about it is 
that it has the current SB part numbers. (You *do* want a copy of 
the current SBL accessory catalog, which they'll probably charge you for.
You'll also be on the floor when you find out what they charge for parts.)

I'll be happy to make you a copy of some of the older drawing sets 
that I've unearthed. I think the earliest exploded view I have is for
a 1957 headstock, and 1963 or so for the rest of the lathe.

Buy a copy of "How to Run a Lathe". SBL will sell you a current edition
for about $20. Lindsay Publications, Inc, (815) 935-5353, will sell
you a nicer quality reproduction of the 1943 edition (which is essentially
the same) for under $10.

I would go to David Sobel for parts first.


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:00:18 EDT 1996
Article: 34695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Treatment of Springs
Date: 12 Sep 1996 20:07:54 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <519qiq$rlk@aphex.direct.ca>
References: <512ht8$25l@nntp.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: van-as-07a03.direct.ca
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <512ht8$25l@nntp.crl.com>, rskinner@a.crl.com (Rob Skinner) says:
>
>My wife and I are restoring an old engine, and are a little worried about
>the treatment of the valve springs.  Would bead blasting have any
>deleterious effect on the spring steel?  Also, would there be any problems
>with plating the springs, specifically a tin/zinc plate from the Eastwood
>kit?  
>
>Any advise would be appreciated.
>
I think you would be better off shot peening the springs as opposed to
sand blasting unless you use a very fine grit or wallnut shells in the blast
process. 
Shot peening actually "work hardens" the outside skin of the spring
allowing you to load the spring to a higher level without overstressing it.


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!news.inc.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!pagesat.net!holly.holli.com!news
From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Coloring titanium
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:22:44 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32388D34.4984@holli.com>
References: <5hARxAx.siov@delphi.com> <4vnes6$hvn@tali.UCHSC.edu> <RzKRSQK.siov@delphi.com>
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siov@delphi.com wrote:
> 
> Marlin:
> 
> I found my way the the webpage with information galore!!  Thanks<g>.
> ---
> [Bill Turczynski]
> siov@delphi.com

I hope it includes electricity and a chemical bath.  Titanium and 
tantalum can change to a rainbow of colors using this jeweler's method.

Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:20 EDT 1996
Article: 34697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!news-dc.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.inc.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: 12 Sep 1996 20:38:11 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <519sbj$el5@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <519esr$psd@matrix.eden.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny12-60.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 12  1:38:11 PM PDT 1996

In <519esr$psd@matrix.eden.com> jher@news.eden.com (jher) writes: 
>
>	Hello, I am interested in trying some casting of bronze, lead,
etc.
>Can anyone recommend a good book to read on this subject?  Thanks.
>-- 
>jher@eden.com/jher@fnord.org
>http://www.fnord.org
 Go over to the Pyramid site at;
http://hre.com/pyramid and give Merle a call. He has a wealth of
information on casting and I think he sells books too. Check with him
for the details.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: 12 Sep 96 20:16:39 -0700
References: <3230A609.3867@the-spa.com> <00001f0c+00003406@msn.com> <511e91$n2i@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960910133809.10348A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <3237A0D2.11564B37@lemur.com>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+00003468@msn.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 5

David,
	Guess what? Sherlines NEWEST accessory is a bolt on sacrficial top 
plate for their Mill!!

Charlie


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:23 EDT 1996
Article: 34699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: starting new thread -- a pun!?   ;-)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:25:35 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
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Message-ID: <32388DDF.9EA@holli.com>
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;-)  Dan


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:32:09 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <32388F69.37BD@holli.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de>
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Walter Preg wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> pls. could somebody explain the meaning of the metric
> system in the USA especially in the field of metalworking?
> According to my current information the linear metric system
> is actually known but (totaly) unused. Is this right?

As I understand it, the US is officially metric, that is the yard is defined by the U.S. Government Bureau of 
Standards as a fraction of a meter.  There is no standard other than the meter for the length of a yard, foot, 
etc.

> Would also like to know how the US system is actually
> named - "inch" system or "foot" system ...?

It's call the "English" system

> 
> When working with a milling machine or with a lathe please
> what is the foundation unit you use? It is 1 inch or 0.1 inch
> or because the US system is non linear is it 1/12 inch and
> so how do you call for instance 1/12 inch?

Most machinists use thousandths of an inch.  one millimeter is about .039 inches.
Most surveyors use hundreths of a foot.
Most carpenters us fractions of an inch, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16th, etc.  

 
> BTW, this system is really confusing to an European. 12 inches
> makes 1 foot, 3 feet makes 1 yard .... on the other hand if it
> is used from the childhood onward it's probably just natural.

Thanks Walter!  (he said sarcastically)  It was invented by Europeans, dropped off in the new world and 
abandoned like an orlphan.  Great.


Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From jean@aa.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jean@aa.net (Jean Clawson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.drugs.cannabis,rec.drugs.misc,rec.drugs.psychedelic,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.chocolate,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.drink.beer,rec.food.drink.coffee,rec.food.drink.tea,rec.food.historic
Subject: Re:WHY...tell me WHY...?! "The Funniest Dirty Jokes of All Time"
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:39:13 GMT
Organization: Alternate Access Incorporated
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WHY do we keep getting posts like this? Are people REALLY so hard up
for a dollar they're willing to SELL dirty jokes? SHEESH!
Mr. JokeMan, I do believe there is a prerequisite that one think
"filthy, original material" is anything more OR less than disgusting!
Something tells me MOST of the people on this ng are NOT in that
category!

-Jean Clawson

JokeMan@fresnet (JokeMan) wrote:

>"The Funniest Dirty Jokes of All Time"

>Have you ever been in a social situation where everybody has a funny 
>joke to tell . . . everyone except you?

>This will never happen to you if you order:  "The Funniest Dirty Jokes 
>of All Time."

>This amazing compilation of zany, filthy, original material will have 
>everyone laughing hysterically, and is yours for just $1.00.  

>Yes, for just a dollar you . . . can be the life of the party!

>Send $1.00 in a self-addressed, stamped envelope to:  

>Joke Man
>1517 E. Trenton
>Fresno, CA  93720





From m.clayton@avc.canterbury.ac.nz Fri Sep 27 16:00:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!nntp.coast.net!chi-news.cic.net!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!munnari.OZ.AU!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!mike.fren.canterbury.ac.nz!user
From: m.clayton@avc.canterbury.ac.nz (Mike Clayton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:54:13 +1300
Organization: University of Canterbury
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <m.clayton-1309960854130001@mike.fren.canterbury.ac.nz>
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In article <512ahb$dgs@newshost.netrix.com>, holder@netrixgw.netrix.com
(Bruce Holder) wrote:

> Peter O'Leary (poleary@mcs.com) wrote:
> : psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
> 
> : >I would like to know what peoples secrets are to getting a real smooth
> : >lathe turned finish. No matter what, if I use mild steel (yes I know
> : >it's crappy stuff for finish) I get a surface finish that shows tear
> : [clip]
> 
> : Believe it or not, for mild steel (crs,hrs) a sharp corner on your
> : tool bit (no radius) will give a better finish.
> 
>   Doesn't that depend on the feed? When I've used a sharp tool, even the
> slowest power feed on my lathe isn't slow enough to keep the tool mark
> from looking like a real fine thread.
> 
> Bruce

My opinion/experience:

I use the late great LBSC's technique, viz get a piece of quarter inch
diameter round high speed steel tool. Grind the end to a 20 degree rake
angle. Grind a V into the top of tool on the corner of the grindstone so
that there is a straight cutting edge the full diameter of the tool
formed. Ensure the edge so formed is as sharp as you can make it.

Put the tool into the holder so that the cutting edge is at 45 degrees to
the logtitudinal axis of the work (I have the top corner of the tool
inclined towards the tailstock) and the centre of the edge is at centre
height of the lathe. Use slowest feed, high rotational speed. Take no more
than 2 thou cut. Flood with coolant. Swarf will stream off in long fine
hairs which will rip your hands to pieces - use protective gloves and your
safety glasses. The finish is usually very good, but as usual be prepared
to play about with things to get the best result. The cut is partly
rubbing, which I believe is the secret.

-- 
Mike Clayton
Language Labs
University of Canterbury
m.clayton@avc.canterbury.ac.nz


From postmaster@eugene.vrn.ru Fri Sep 27 16:00:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Eugene  Kozhevnikov" <postmaster@eugene.vrn.ru>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: NEW DESIGNS in press manufacture...
Date: 12 Sep 1996 21:35:22 GMT
Organization: KOVEX
Lines: 29
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KOVEX Engineering, Ltd.
New designs in press manufacture
WWW: http://from.net/eugene/kovex

Original EXTRAORDINARY designs worked out by KOVEX 
Engineering, Ltd. are a ABSOLUTELY NEW and HAVE NO 
ANALOGUES in the world practice. They are:
- Industrial dry friction clutch & brake units; 
- Clutch-brakes with separators;
- CLUTCHLESS drive press forging  machines;
- Metal cutting shears;
- Overload safety and  other devices;
- Effective modernization and rebuilding of crank mechanical 
  presses   by using  of clutchless drives;
- A vast variety of innovating patents and original designs in press  
  manufacture.
Possessing considerable and successful experience in research, 
design and introduction into manufacturing of the said innovations, 
the Company at the moment is seeking a business partner in United 
States for distribution, manufacturing, licensing, patenting, etc. or 
other joint ventures.

Contact:
Dr. Eugene V. Kozhevnikov
KOVEX Engineering, Ltd.
WWW: http://from.net/eugene/kovex
E-mail: eugene@from.net
Address: P.O. Box 535, Glavpochtampt, Voronezh, 394000, Russia



From jean@aa.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jean@aa.net (Jean Clawson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking,rec.drugs.cannabis,rec.drugs.misc,rec.drugs.psychedelic,rec.equestrian,rec.folk-dancing,rec.food.chocolate,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.drink,rec.food.drink.beer,rec.food.drink.coffee,rec.food.drink.tea,rec.food.historic
Subject: *OT*  Re: WHY...tell me WHY...?! "The Funniest Dirty Jokes of All Time"
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yank@ionet.net (EllenSmith) wrote:

>For...one dollah I can finally be the life of the party?
>Hmmmmmm...that sounds pretty darn cheap to me :)
>But.....isn't their alot of repsponsibility that goes with being the
>life of the party? Can you only be the life for part of the party?
>Or do you have to be the life of the party for the *whole* party?
>I dunno.
>I gotta think about it. :)

You can be the life of the party for half the party if you want. The
only problem you may encounter is choosing WHICH half you want to be
the life for. Now if you drink, you should probably select the second
half because that's when you'd be in your rarest form and more apt to
actually TELL these diddy's you've paid one, hard earned, dollar for.
However, if you don't drink, you may consider choosing the first half
as you'll be wanting to leave come the second half.
Can you tell I don't tend many parties...
Hey, did you hear the one about the man that came into the office on
Monday morning w/ a black eye? His boss asked him how he got it and he
said "I was in church yesterday and when everyone stood to sing, I
noticed that the dress of the woman in front of me was stuck in her
backside." Thinking he was doing her a favor, he pulled it out. She
turned around and punched him.
Next Monday, the man came in with, yet, ANOTHER black eye. His boss
asked him what happend THIS time.
He said, "I was in church on Sunday and when we rose to sing, that
same woman was in front of me and, again, had her dress stuck in her
backside. The guy next to me pulled it out but I put it back cause *I*
knew she wanted it there."





From pdrumm@dwave.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:31 EDT 1996
Article: 34705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 14 Sep 1996 23:33:23 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <51ffc3$dep@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <32364B68.643E@interaccess.com> <32387880.6F6D@en.com><32364B68.643E@interaccess.com> <32387880.6F6D@en.com> <51d7ud$sh2@star.epix.net>
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In message <51d7ud$sh2@star.epix.net> - gmfoster@epix.net (Garry
Foster)Sat, 14 Sep 1996 03:11:47 GMT writes:
:->
:->Well I ordered some stuff thru them and because I was ordering anyway
:->ordered a can of blueing. They backordered the blluining and shipped
:->it a couple of days later. The shipping alone made the can very
:->expensive and the only reason I had ordered it was to get it shipped
:->eith an exosting order. Actually they ended up shipping the order in
:->four seperate pieces and charging me shipping on all of them. I won't
:->order from them any more if I have a choice. I often order something I
:->was "going to get sometime" with an existing order but thier shipping
:->makes that a waste of dollars...

Some time ago, a couple yrs maybe, I ordered a 8x9x12 angle plate from
ENCO, along with a few other small items like a dial indicator, a
wiggler, and I forget what else. At the time, I -needed- the angle
plate for a job I was in the middle of, the other items were just "cuz
I wanted 'em". The small items were delivered in a few days, but no
angle plate. After waiting a few weeks, I wrote them to find out where
it was, and was told it was not in stock, but to expect it in 2 weeks.
This went on for months, I wrote them, they wrote me, always the same
story. Finally, after almost a full YEAR, I sent a letter to cancel
the angle plate, I never got a reply to this one. About 6 weeks later,
it shows up at my door, exactly 1 year and 2 weeks after I ordered
it(the wrong one, I might add, but I didn't complain since it was a
better model). Of course, the job I needed it for was long gone, I had
to farm out some of the work, which cost me more than I paid for the
angle plate.

This was the last order I will -ever- place with ENCO, if I ran my
business the same way, I'd be out-of-business!


pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:21:44 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <ginger.521.001A0F3F@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <3230A609.3867@the-spa.com> <00001f0c+00003406@msn.com> <511e91$n2i@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960910133809.10348A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <3237A0D2.11564B37@lemur.com>
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The owner of Sherline has been at the last several NAMES shows with a nice 
display. He turns an aluminum bar with chips bigger than I do on my 11"x48" 
Rockwell. He offers visitors to turn the crank and see if they can stall the 
thing. It is amazing.

Now, I agree with all the others, I dont do that on my Sherline. But it WILL 
take cuts a lot heavier than have been described here, and likely wont hurt 
the machine.

I also strongly agree that you must have plans for work sized to the tool. Ive 
seen some rigs to make table extensions, headstock risers, etc. If thats your 
need, buy a bigger machine.

I had a Unimat 3 and was lucky enough to sell it and buy the Sherline. Even 
though the Unimat is about the same size its power is miniscule compared to 
the Sherline.

now if I just had time to make something with my Sherline....

Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From lughaid@pacbell.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael D. Horgan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Off The Wall_Stuff In Old Magazines
Date: 12 Sep 1996 21:38:41 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 39
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <519vt1$5us@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
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In article <50snh4$s72@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
edk4@aol.com (Edk4) wrote:

> About two decades ago, I accumulated over 800 issues of PM, 
> PS, S&M*  and MI, when people were bringing darn near *anything* 
> to flea markets here in NE. (*not the bondage one, they use cheap
> paper and it just doesn't hold up)
<snip>
> It's a shame no one has indexed or catalogued the rich resource 
> these magazines represent.       Or, have they?
> 
> ------------------
> Ed Kingsley
> 
Metal Web News, the website for this group, has a pointer to the
 Institute of Metal Research in Escondido, Ca.  At their address:
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/newsletters/imr/imr-main.html
they have a file with:

 "A listing of magazine articles showing plans for making your own
 metalworking tools and equipment. We reviewed all major U.S
 magazines from 1900 to 1980. You need a library with a good 
collection of old magazines. When you find it, you will be tapped
into the motherload of tool and equipment plans. "

I used their list at my local library to get some neat stuff, like the
 plans for building a Metal Shaper, you'll find on my website at 
http://users.aol.com/lughaid , that were in the November 1928 
edition of Popular Mechanics. The list isn't complete, because of 
the particular things they were looking for, but it's a good start.
Regards.

Michael D Horgan 
Lughaid@pacbell.net
http://users.aol.com/lughaid/
Lughaid@aol.com 
M.Horgan5@Genie.com,   
ah491@lafn.org



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:32:26 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <ginger.522.0023DE9E@pcm.ultranet.com>
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>In article <511g8n$6m1@agate.berkeley.edu>, jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton) says:
>>

>>Music wire comes with a spring temper.  You should not have to do
>>anything to it.  Springback is obviously an important consideration in
>>trying to arrive at what you want - you just have to experiment to make to
>>the proper compensation.

you can save a lot of the expirement by looking up the mandrel size in 
MACHINERY HANDBOOK. There is a chart relating wire size, desired dia and 
mandrel. Ive made a few and they come out very close to what I need if I just 
follow the table.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From meisinge@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:00:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: meisinge@direct.ca (mark eisinger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: 14 Sep 1996 18:51:08 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51euqs$qc7@orb.direct.ca>
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In article <51d7j1$3g4@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>, jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey) says:
>
>In <51cr81$3t3@aphex.direct.ca> meisinge@direct.ca (mark eisinger) 
>>example  2.1" OD spring wound with 0.100 wire
>>
>>           2" - 0.100
>>           ----------   x 100%  = 19%
>>             0.100
>>
>>           2" - ( 2"x 19% )  = 1.62 or 1 5/16" drill rod
>>
>Mark:
>
>Is that a typo? 1.62 would be 1 5/8" Yes?
>
>Jim Harvey
>jim@hre.com
>http://hre.com/
Ooooops <red face on> yes that should 1 5/8" 

Mark Eisinger


From meisinge@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:00:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: meisinge@direct.ca (mark eisinger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: 12 Sep 1996 23:13:37 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <51a5f1$6ch@aphex.direct.ca>
References: <5111b1$gbd@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <511g8n$6m1@agate.berkeley.edu> <514t7p$d73@orb.direct.ca> <519451$i4s@news1.svc>
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In article <519451$i4s@news1.svc>, Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> says:
>
>After reading Kozo's HSM article, I too tried the music wire approach.
>
>I quickly found three problems:
>
>1.  The relaxed size of the coils I made using his method were larger
>    than predicted by the nomographs.
>2.  The tension placed on the wire as it is wound has a huge effect on the spring.
>    Should probably use a weight to maintain tension on the wire.
>3.  The music wire that comes in coils, packaged in the yellow boxes (Precision Brand)
>    is not precision even though they brag about their tight tolerances.  I have found
>    up to 0.002" variation between boxes of the same nominal size.  This has a great
>    effect when the wire you need to use is nominally 0.01".  Moral of this story is
>    to take a micrometer with you when you buy spring steel wire.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Mike Rehmus
>
If you calculate the spring index, you can you that number to predict the growth
of the OD. Take the mean diameter of the desired OD divided by the wire diameter.
take that number to be a percentage of the mandrel undersize to get the
desired finished OD.   


(OD-d)/d=spring index   ie. 2" - .100
                            ----------  =  19
                              .100

19 expressed as a %     ie.   19%


19% of 2"= 0.38 reduction of mandrel thus

2" -0.38=  1.62  therefore use a 1  5/8" 

You'll be real close to the desired OD, Of course fine tuning will be
required to get exact OD. Remember to stress relieve the springs before
use.

Mark
Spring maker by trade
Search the the web for Dendoff Springs, we've beeen there for 90 years!


From Chrish@easynet.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:00:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:09:10 GMT
Organization: [posted via] Easynet Group PLC
Lines: 22
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Guess I forgot to answer the obvious question in my last post "how do
you gauge the depth of cut if feeding in at an angle?". The answer is
either to add 1/8 to the cut (rough estimate) or do it properly and
use a table. There is one on my web page at:
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk?~chrish/threadz2.htm
This lists the amount of infeed for a variety of threads.

Chris

>In article <50ps8s$sbh@lemon.easynet.co.uk>, Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris
>Heapy) writes:

>> hence the advantage of setting the topslide over to half
>>thread angle and just using one cutting edge on the tool, this way you
>>can add top-rake to the cutting edge greatly improving the finish.

>This is the first time that I have heard of setting the tool to half the
>thread angle in threading. Is the tool ground differently other than the
>top rake? If not, I don't see how you get the 60 degree thread angle.
>Please give us more information on this technique.




From abrasha@abrasha.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 21:04:25 -0700
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 31
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Paul Baker wrote:
> 
> Hope this is the appropriate news group for this question... I'd like to
> try electroplating silver (or maybe zinc/tin) onto steel.  I'm familiar
> with the theory, I just can't seem to find a sources for electrolytes.
> Can someone refer me to a distributor ?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Paul Baker
> pdbsf+@pitt.edu


Dear Paul,

I buy my electroplating solutions from:

Hoover & Strong, Inc.
Richmond, VA 23236 USA
804-794-3700
FAX: 804-794-5687

I hope you are not trying to electroplate stainless, because it will not hold.

As far as hardware goes, you can get that from a jewelry tool supply house, like Rio 
Grande, or Frei & Borel or Swest, etc.

Good luck,

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From Chrish@easynet.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:00:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 09:07:31 GMT
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>> By this technique, the tool's leading edge does all the work and the
>> trailing edge does nothing so you give the leading edge all the rake and clearance.
>> The set up is as follows: the compound is set at the half angle of the tread (only
>> the compound is used feed the tool) and the leading edge of the tool is then set at
>> the correct angle to the work piece with the usual thread gage (the trailing edge of
>> the tool does nothing so ignore it). The thread is then cut in the usual fashion.
>> Canner claims this method leaves a finish so good that it "has to be seen to be
>> appreciated". Canner also notes that threads cut in this fashion are V-form rather
>> than radiused, but for most applications this is of no consequence.
>>
>At the trade school in Huntsville, Ala.  I was taught to set the compound
>to 29 degrees, so that the trailing edge made a very slight cut.
>Otherwise you might have a slight trace of the various cuts on that
>surface.  Seemed to work well.

>Was also taught how to use a surface grinder to sharpen HSS for cutting
>threads.
>				Cheers,

You're right, that is the best way. To add a little more description
to the method the steps are as follows:

1. Setover the topslide to half thread angle (or slightly under - 1
deg or so).
2. Run the tool point in to just touch the work, zero the cross-slide
dial.
3. Move the tool to the right of the work and use the top-slide to
move the tool inwards  to the previously calculated cutting depth.
4. Zero both the topslide dial and the cross-slide dial.
5. Now, backout the tool using the top-slide only until it's again
just touching the work (move the the toolpoint to left)
6. Put the cut on using the top-slide only, traverse for the first
cut.
7. Pull the tool out of the cut using the cross-slide and wind the
carriage back to the beginning, wind the cross-slide back in to it's
zero setting.
8. Add to the cut using top-slide again, and repeat. When the
top-slide reads zero you know you've reached full depth.

Note: if you used exactly half thread angle (and I do) add the last
thou using the cross-slide to clean up the trailing thread face.

Hope that wasn't too patronising or boring to the many expert
machininsts here :) just thought it was worth being clear about it.

			oOo

To sharpen tools to the correct angles initially I use my vertical
miller, a universal vice, a protractor head, and a 4" grinding disk
(from an angle grinder) mounted on a special arbour turning at about
2500 rpm  - that's as fast as it will go. Those disks are tough and
won't shatter easily. I actually TURNED the disk hollow so it cuts at
the outside edge with a carbide tool (run in back-gear, sharpen
often!). Messy job, but I've only needed to do it once - and you don't
need to take much off. Cover up the lathe and clean up well after.
This gives a flat, smooth surface , with accurate angles, and needs
very little touching up with a hone.
One day I'll make a tool and cutter grinder...

Chris




From skod@trenco.Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:00:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: skod@trenco.Eng.Sun.COM (Scott Griffith, Sun Lumpyware)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Query: Shoptask experiences?
Date: 13 Sep 1996 00:14:07 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
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I'd like to hear from anyone who has some experiences, either pro or
con, with the current Shoptask combination lathe/mill/drill machines.
I'd especially like to hear from anyone who can compare and contrast
them to the Emco, Smithy, and other smallish combo machines.

I'm tired of going bankrupt paying local shops agonizing hourly rates
to crank out trivial chassis and braking system parts for my race car
(which has a voracious appetitie for 'em, it seems). The best thing I
can see about the Shoptask is that it has a decent swing for a smaller
machine. I routinely need to work on brake system components, so a
lathe that can swing up to 10" or so is a must- but I don't have much
room for a 6 foot bed, so the compact size is another must.  Thus- the
Shoptask is the head of the short list. If there are other machines I
should consider, please let me know!

Please respond via email to skod@sun.com, and I'll summarize in a few
day's time. 

Thanks in advance!

-skod
-- 
Scott Griffith, Sun Microsystems Lumpyware
Nor Cal SAAC/Green Flag Driving Association driving instructor
(and driver, of anything that turns both right and left,
and can pass tech...) Return Path : skod@sun.COM


From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:00:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:29:54 -0700
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On 12 Sep 1996, Roger M Weppelman wrote:

> By this technique, the tool's leading edge does all the work and the
> trailing edge does nothing so you give the leading edge all the rake and clearance.
> The set up is as follows: the compound is set at the half angle of the tread (only
> the compound is used feed the tool) and the leading edge of the tool is then set at
> the correct angle to the work piece with the usual thread gage (the trailing edge of
> the tool does nothing so ignore it). The thread is then cut in the usual fashion.
> Canner claims this method leaves a finish so good that it "has to be seen to be
> appreciated". Canner also notes that threads cut in this fashion are V-form rather
> than radiused, but for most applications this is of no consequence.
>
At the trade school in Huntsville, Ala.  I was taught to set the compound
to 29 degrees, so that the trailing edge made a very slight cut.
Otherwise you might have a slight trace of the various cuts on that
surface.  Seemed to work well.

Was also taught how to use a surface grinder to sharpen HSS for cutting
threads.
				Cheers,



From anderson@darex.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anderson <anderson@darex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling Cast Iron
Date: 14 Sep 1996 17:26:15 GMT
Organization: InfoStructure - Ashland, OR
Lines: 28
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mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair) wrote:
>
> 
> In article <51935u$luo@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>, mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair) writes:
> |> 
> |> In article <3236B9D4.20B8@cyberhighway.net>, Russ <russcwv@cyberhighway.net> writes:
> |> |> I know the smart thing to do is to NOT try to drill cast iron but I'm
> |> |> doing some work on a bandsaw and need to drill about a 3/16th inch hole.
> |> |> Very tough going with my standard twist drill bits. Do we have any
> |> |> machinists who can give me advice? 
> |> 
> |> 
> |> I think drills for cast iron are ground to a lower angle.
> |> I have cross-posted this to rec.crafts.metalwork;
> |> someone there will be able to a better answer your 
> |> question.
> |> 

Ken-
Cast iron--recommended included pointangle is 90 degrees. 12 degrees 
relief.  
I collected the several material and drill point recommendations
and info. from drill makers'guides, Machinery Handbook and others 
sources at
http://www.darex.com/m&mtech.htm
Curt Anderson
Darex



From MCenter@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:45 EDT 1996
Article: 34717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MCenter@gnn.com (MARK CENTER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Aluminum?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 20:50:41
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In article <323838F7.3DB1@lanl.gov> Adam Whiteson wrote:
>I am a woodworker who occasionally needs to work pieces of aluminum.
>Right now I need to make an inset plate for a router table out of
>1/2" aluminum. The plate will be 10"x12" with a 3"dia circular
>throat cut out of the center.  The throat needs a ledge to
>support a 3" Lexan insert.
>
>My plan is to cut the rectangle with a table saw and then 
>machine the throat on a drill press using a 3/8" mill end.
>KBC has mill ends for aluminum.
>

you may be able to cut the aluminum with a table saw with a carbide tipped 
saw. Find a way to slow the saw RPM if you can.

Drill a hole in the center of the aluminum.
Mount the aluminum on your drillpress on a die spring stripper bolt or axle 
shoulder bolt on top of a piece of wood.
Shim with washers so the aluminum barely spins
Swivel your table or head to increase or decrease the radius of the hole.
Use a four flute 1/8" end mill. Smaller=less holding force
do not use end mills made for aluminum, their cut is to aggressive
drill starting holes on inset and thru radius.
mill inset raduis first.
finish cutting
2000- 3000 RPM

this is bull pucky. a mental excersize. it may even work. 



From godillot@voicenet.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: godillot@voicenet.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS:  "HOW TO RUN A LATHE"
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 12:58:28 -0500
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Original booklet from South Bend published in 1935.
Good condition but shows some soiling.
Asking $10.00
contact 
John
godillot@voicenet.com


From jean@aa.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jean@aa.net (Jean Clawson)
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Subject: *OT*  Re: WHY...tell me WHY...?! "The Funniest Dirty Jokes of All Time"
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yank@ionet.net (EllenSmith) wrote:

>For...one dollah I can finally be the life of the party?
>Hmmmmmm...that sounds pretty darn cheap to me :)
>But.....isn't their alot of repsponsibility that goes with being the
>life of the party? Can you only be the life for part of the party?
>Or do you have to be the life of the party for the *whole* party?
>I dunno.
>I gotta think about it. :)

You can be the life of the party for half the party if you want. The
only problem you may encounter is choosing WHICH half you want to be
the life for. Now if you drink, you should probably select the second
half because that's when you'd be in your rarest form and more apt to
actually TELL these diddy's you've paid one, hard earned, dollar for.
However, if you don't drink, you may consider choosing the first half
as you'll be wanting to leave come the second half.
Can you tell I don't tend many parties...
Hey, did you hear the one about the man that came into the office on
Monday morning w/ a black eye? His boss asked him how he got it and he
said "I was in church yesterday and when everyone stood to sing, I
noticed that the dress of the woman in front of me was stuck in her
backside." Thinking he was doing her a favor, he pulled it out. She
turned around and punched him.
Next Monday, the man came in with, yet, ANOTHER black eye. His boss
asked him what happend THIS time.
He said, "I was in church on Sunday and when we rose to sing, that
same woman was in front of me and, again, had her dress stuck in her
backside. The guy next to me pulled it out but I put it back cause *I*
knew she wanted it there."





From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: M42 cobalt steel drill for stainless steel?
Date: 14 Sep 1996 21:06:37 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <3238ad34.1855531@news.dx.net>, jds@cmaster.com (James D.
Szura) writes:

>stevec@hal-pc.org (stevec) wrote:
>
>>
>>        Is there any advantage to use cobalt steel bits on stainless 
>>over carbide bits?
>>

  I don't know what type of stainless you are cutting, But my experience
with type 304 and 316 is that the sharper the cutting edge the better and
you can sharpen cobalt a lot sharper than carbide.

                                             Hope this helps
                                                   LWC


From lookma@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:00:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Specialty etching service
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 18:20:37 -0700
Organization: Look Ma!
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We'll do specialty etching of designs, graphics, or text in glass,
crystal, on the surface of metals, even in stone! If you have a job
requiring very good resolution and very reasonable rates, see our page
at:

http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma

You'll be glad you stopped by - and remember - we'll etch practically
anything that can be etched!


From alshinn@sirius.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:51 EDT 1996
Article: 34723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help ME Please!!!
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 11:14:54 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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In article <51dgma$mta@news1.t1.usa.pipeline.com>,
mr500cm@usa.pipeline.com(Mr500CM) wrote:

> I'm new to metalworking and I'm working with aluminum.I am making
> photographic brackets and other items and need to learn about tapping new
> threads. My first question is this: I need to have a 1/4-20 thread, how big
> of a hole should I drill to tap this size. Actually there are other sizes
> too but 1/4-20 is my main size. Is there a chart or a refernce book. 
>  
> Second I need a source for a good assortment of nuts & bolts and screws. I
> used to see these great assortments real cheap and now that I need it I
> can't find it. Any I deas where I can find them? 
>  
> Last question: I'm using aluminum bar stock, 1inch x 1/4 inch and I'm
> currently paying $2.65 per foot. I'm not sure if this is a fair price, if
> not I could use a good source in the New York City/Long Island area. 
>  
> Thanks so much. 
>  
> Lance

Lance:
Dave Keith sent the following chart in awhile ago, here it is again:

Dec.    Inch   Wire  Tap            Dec.    Inch   Wire  Tap
Inches  (mm)   Let.  Thread         Inches  (mm)   Let.  Thread

0.0156   1/64                       0.3230           P
0.0312   1/32                       0.3281   21/64
0.0469   3/64        #0-80          0.3320           Q   3/8-24
0.0625   1/16        #1-64          0.3390           R   1/8-27 Pipe
0.0635          52   #1-72          0.3438   11/32

0.6700          51   #2-56          0.3480           S
0.0700          50   #2-64          0.3580           T
0.0781   5/64        #3-48          0.3594   23/64
0.0810          46   #3-56          0.3680           U   7/16-14
0.0890          43   #4-40          0.3750   3/8

0.0935          42   #4-48          0.3770           V
0.0938   3/32                       0.3860           W   7/16-20
0.0995          39   #5-40          0.3906   25/64
0.1040          37   #5-44          0.3970           X
0.1065          36   #6-32          0.4040           Y

0.1094   7/64                       0.4063   13/32
0.1130          33   #6-40          0.4130           Z
0.1250   1/8         5/32-32        0.4219   27/64       1/2-13
0.1285          30   5/32-36        0.4375   7/16        1/4-18 Pipe
0.1360          29   #8-32          0.4531   29/64       1/2-20

0.1406   9/64                       0.4688   15/32
0.1470          26   3/16-24        0.4844   31/64       9/16-12
0.1495          25   #10-24         0.5000   1/2
0.1563   5/32                       0.5156   33/64       9/16-18
0.1570          22   3/16-32        0.5313   17/32

0.1590          21   #10-32         0.5469   35/64
0.1719   11/64                      0.5512   (14mm)      5/8-11
0.1730          17   #12-24         0.5625   9/16
0.1770          16   7/32-24        0.5781   37/64       5/8-18
0.1800          15   #12-28         0.5906   (15mm)      3/8-18 Pipe

0.1875   3/16                       0.5938   19/32
0.1890          12   7/32-32        0.6094   39/64
0.1990           8   1/4-20         0.6250   5/8         11/16-16
0.2031   13/64                      0.6406   41/64
0.2130           3   1/4-28         0.6563   21/32       3/4-10

0.2188   7/32                       0.6719   43/64
0.2340           A                  0.6875   11/16       3/4-16
0.2344   15/64                      0.7031   45/64
0.2380           B                  0.7188   23/32       1/2-14 Pipe
0.2420           C                  0.7344   47/64

0.2460           D                  0.7500   3/4
0.2500   1/4     E                  0.7656   49/64       7/8-9
0.2570           F   5/16-18        0.7813   25/32
0.2610           G                  0.7969   51/64
0.2656   17/64                      0.8125   13/16       7/8-14

0.2660           H                  0.8281   53/64
0.2720           I   5/16-24        0.8438   27/32
0.2770           J                  0.8594   55/64
0.2810           K                  0.8750   7/8         1-8
0.2813   9/32        5/16-32        0.8906   57/64

0.2900           L                  0.9063   29/32
0.2950           M                  0.9219   59/64       3/4-14 Pipe
0.2969   19/64                      0.9375   15/16       1-14
0.3020           N                  0.9531   61/64
0.3125   3/16        3/8-16         0.9688   31/32

0.3160           O                  0.9844   63/64       1 1/8 -7

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From tseideman@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:52 EDT 1996
Article: 34724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: tseideman@aol.com (Tseideman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Owls Head Museum
Date: 15 Sep 1996 07:13:34 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: tseideman@aol.com (Tseideman)
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Just dial 207-555-1212 to get their number; not only is Owls Head still in
operation, they're going to hold one of their magnificent antique and
steam engine auctions in June '97.  These are among the best places in the
country to find and sell such items.  The prices, though, are absurdly
high.

Feel free to contact me if you'd like more info.

Tony Seideman
Tony Seideman


From abrasha@abrasha.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.c2.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone going to IMTS (second try)
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 10:27:02 -0700
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <323AEAE6.5BC@abrasha.com>
References: <50a8cl$88u@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960806082824.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com> <514vosINN6h8@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <32379ADF.7800@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
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> In defense of Scott and surely he doesn't need me to do so but his
> company does not make lathes anymore.  Furthermore, I have been given
> nothing but the utmost cooperation from Scott and he asks nothing in
> return.  If Scott's company still sold lathes I would buy one not only
> for the high quality that I'm sure it would be but for the support that
> Scott supplies.
> 
> I have been a member of many newsgroups and I have yet to find a person
> as cooperative and helpful as Scott Logan.
> 
> I had to write after reading Ken's post because I really think he is
> giving Scott a bum rap.
> 
> Joe.


Joe,

I think you might want to read Ken's post again. He did NOT give Scott a "bum rap". In 
fact he paid him a very nice compliment!

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: 15 Sep 96 03:09:39 -0700
References: <51aulr$6mf@news-e2d.gnn.com> <51f4pf$peb@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+0000348d@msn.com>
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Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 3

Hi,
	As for Used Sherline stuff Jim Harvey has some used stuff for sale 
on his web site (http://hre.com)


From jwcercis@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: 12 Sep 1996 19:59:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <51a850$1qg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
missing?

Mill


From derubeis@cattell.psych.upenn.edu Fri Sep 27 16:00:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!cattell.psych.upenn.edu!derubeis
From: derubeis@cattell.psych.upenn.edu (Robert J. DeRubeis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: small, used MIG/TIG welder
Date: 14 Sep 1996 20:23:24 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania
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My brother-in-law, Dan McClued, is the interested party.
He can be reached at 215-426-7441 (Philadelphia).

But I'm willing to pass along information to him as well,
so you can e-mail me.

Rob DeRubeis
derubeis@psych.upenn.edu


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:00:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: 15 Sep 1996 12:28:17 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <09960815072919.OUI41.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>
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In article <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>, From Phillip DeBrito 
<pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>, the following was written:
> I would like to tune it up and find sources for parts and maybe 
> manuals, where and how do I start?  

South Bend can be contacted at 800-24-LATHE although I understand their
prices are rather high.  You can also try:

MACHINE TOOLS AND PARTS, USED AND NEW
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Meridian Machinery
PO Box 1
Babylon, NY 11702
Dave Ficken
Tel. 516-956-1442
E-Mail: mermac@ix.netcom.com
http://hre.com/meridian

PKE, Inc.
P.O. Box 6595
Libertyville, IL 60048-6595
Pete Welzen
Tel. 847-362-0014
Fax  847-362-5657
E-Mail: pmcpke@concentric.net
http://www.concentric.net/~pmcpke

Plaza Machinery Co.
P.O. Box 14
Bethel, VT  05032
Joe Bergamo
Tel. 802-234-9673
Fax  802-234-6325
E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com

Richard Triemstra     
6238 College Dr.
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127-2554
Tel. 313-563-7571
Fax  810-756-1524

--
  ---------------------------------------------------
  From Scott Logan,
  Logan Actuator Co., Chicago, IL
  http://members.gnn.com/SLogan
  Reply to SLogan@gnn.com



From writt@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com (WRitt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: 14 Sep 1996 16:32:47 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <51aulr$6mf@news-e2d.gnn.com>, SLapinskas@gnn.com () writes:

>  Please let me know if you've got used Sherline lathes and accessories
for 
>sale, I'm in the protoype stage of prototyping and would like to purchase

>some used equipment to get up and running. If you need details on hows
what 
>it is for then please contact me.
>
>

I doubt that you will find any used Sherline tools for sale. I once tried
with no luck. There are several dealers on this group that offer 20%
discounts to 'netters. that is most likely your best bet.

Bill Rittner


From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:01:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!news-2.csn.net!cpollard
From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs English (Was: Metric system in the USA?)
Date: 16 Sep 1996 03:10:05 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <51iged$92e@news-2.csn.net>
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Qkjfioasdn (qkjfioasdn@aol.com) wrote:
: If possible would you want the US to start using the metric system?  Why
: or why not?
Well if we went metric engineering calcualtions for mechanical engineers
would match those of the electrical engineers which are already metric.
I find it is eaasier to get the right answers for any sort of dynamics.
Engineers would spend a lot less time doing silly conversions between
rod.fortnights and metre/sec.
Harware stores would not need to carry as many sizes.


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:01:02 EDT 1996
Article: 34732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!imci2!pull-feed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip52.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Standard Slots?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 23:42:25 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <felice.214.3239F161@pioneer.net>
References: <322f4f0c.6991403@news.islandnet.com> <50qks1$oof@Nntp1.mcs.net> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960912183008.10963B-100000@home.iis.com.br>
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This happened to me with the Sherline mill. I enede up machining a #10 square 
nut down on my lathe. You should go to the hardware store and buy a square nut
for whatever bolt/stud fits the slot, then alter it so that it is fits the 
slot. It helps to have clamping hardware to do this, so unless you use a file 
or your lathe, it's a catch-22. peen the bottom of the nut threads so the stud 
cannot go all the way through and mar the table!



In article <Pine.LNX.3.91.960912183008.10963B-100000@home.iis.com.br> Eduardo 
Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br> writes:>From: Eduardo Haddad Filho 
<ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br>>Subject: Standard Slots?
>Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:34:52 -0300


>I've just received my first milling machine - a Prazi.
>I'm not sure but I think its slots are not standard. I went through 
>Machinery's Handbook and found some standards for slots, bolts and slot 
>nuts but Prazi's dimensions are different.
>I've done a "drawing" for the slot.
>As many mail order catalogs simply mention 3/8" slots, without giving its 
>profile, could you tell me if I should by hardware for a 3/8" or 5/16" 
>profile?

>Here is the "drawing"(Argh!)

>Thanks!


> ________    A     ________
>|        |        |        |
>|        |        |        |
>|        |        | D      |
>|        |        |        |
>|   _____|        |_____   |
>|  |                    |  |
>|  |                 C  |  |
>|  |          B         |  |
>|  |____________________|  |
>|__________________________|

>A(throat) =  0.387"    9.8mm
>B(width)  =  0.620"   15.7mm
>C(height) =  0.310"    7.9mm
>D(height) =  0.307"    7.8mm
>   


>Eduardo Haddad Filho
>ehaddadf@iis.com.br





From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:03 EDT 1996
Article: 34733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!imci2!imci3!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: 14 Sep 1996 03:08:17 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <51d7j1$3g4@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <5111b1$gbd@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <511g8n$6m1@agate.berkeley.edu> <514t7p$d73@orb.direct.ca> <ginger.522.0023DE9E@pcm.ultranet.com> <51cr81$3t3@aphex.direct.ca>
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In <51cr81$3t3@aphex.direct.ca> meisinge@direct.ca (mark eisinger) 
>example  2.1" OD spring wound with 0.100 wire
>
>           2" - 0.100
>           ----------   x 100%  = 19%
>             0.100
>
>           2" - ( 2"x 19% )  = 1.62 or 1 5/16" drill rod
>
Mark:

Is that a typo? 1.62 would be 1 5/8" Yes?

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From gmfoster@epix.net Fri Sep 27 16:01:04 EDT 1996
Article: 34734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!imci2!imci3!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news2.epix.net!news
From: gmfoster@epix.net (Garry Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 03:11:47 GMT
Organization: epix.net
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <51d7ud$sh2@star.epix.net>
References: <32364B68.643E@interaccess.com> <32387880.6F6D@en.com>
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Ed Smega <smega@en.com> wrote:

>Eugene N. Neigoff wrote:
>> 
>> I am posting this message as a warning to anyone purchasing items from
>> ENCO MANUFACTURING CO.
>> 
>> The have a little SCAM which I for one find very fraudulant.
>> 
>> If you purchase in person items and they dont have them in stock, they
>> will without telling you "BACK ORDER" them and ship them to you without
>> your approval.  Then they expect top be paid for the item and the
>> shipping costs.  This has happened to me and I am going to let everyone
>> know that this practice is very expensive.  Items are shipped
>> individually via UPS and they expect payment.


>I have not had that problem here in Cleveland.  They ask me how I want 
>the back order handled - giving me the choice of coming back to the store 
>to pick it up or having it shipped to my home.  I am not certain about 
>this but I beleive there was not a charge for shipping to my home.

>Ed Smega


Well I ordered some stuff thru them and because I was ordering anyway
ordered a can of blueing. They backordered the blluining and shipped
it a couple of days later. The shipping alone made the can very
expensive and the only reason I had ordered it was to get it shipped
eith an exosting order. Actually they ended up shipping the order in
four seperate pieces and charging me shipping on all of them. I won't
order from them any more if I have a choice. I often order something I
was "going to get sometime" with an existing order but thier shipping
makes that a waste of dollars...




From meisinge@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:01:07 EDT 1996
Article: 34735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: meisinge@direct.ca (mark eisinger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: 13 Sep 1996 23:37:37 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <51cr81$3t3@aphex.direct.ca>
References: <5111b1$gbd@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <511g8n$6m1@agate.berkeley.edu> <514t7p$d73@orb.direct.ca> <ginger.522.0023DE9E@pcm.ultranet.com>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <ginger.522.0023DE9E@pcm.ultranet.com>, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger) says:
>
>
>
>>In article <511g8n$6m1@agate.berkeley.edu>, jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton) says:
>>>
>
>>>Music wire comes with a spring temper.  You should not have to do
>>>anything to it.  Springback is obviously an important consideration in
>>>trying to arrive at what you want - you just have to experiment to make to
>>>the proper compensation.
>
>you can save a lot of the expirement by looking up the mandrel size in 
>MACHINERY HANDBOOK. There is a chart relating wire size, desired dia and 
>mandrel. Ive made a few and they come out very close to what I need if I just 
>follow the table.
>
>
>Ron Ginger
>my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


You can calculate mandrel size by using the following formula.
It uses spring index to calculate the reduction of mandrel
size to get the corect OD.


      meanOD - wire diameter
      ----------------------  x  100%  = mandrel reduction %
           wire diameter

     meanOD - (meanOD x Mandrel reduction %) = corect mandrel


example  2.1" OD spring wound with 0.100 wire

           2" - 0.100
           ----------   x 100%  = 19%
             0.100

           2" - ( 2"x 19% )  = 1.62 or 1 5/16" drill rod


Remember to stress relieve the spring before use. Also stress
relieveing changes spring diameters, so experiment a little.

Mark
Spring maker by trade


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:01:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Softening Air Hardening Steel?
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 11:26:35 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <323b570c.4897387@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell) having
written:

>in the barbecue with a bunch of charcoal and heated it up
>to a good bright red and covered the barbecue and let the
>charcoal suffocate overnight.  It still was as hard as ever.

I've softened a piece of similar stuff by doing the same thing, but
using a coke fuelled domestic fire for the heating. It's hotter than
barbecue charcoal, as the draught is better.

Handy things solid fuel stoves (the smokeless fuel sort with a glass
door and draught control) - you can even use them for forgework, if
you don't mind carrying lumps of glowing orange iron through the
lounge.

--
Do whales have krillfiles ?


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:01:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: resurfacing a hunk of "railroad track"?
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 11:26:39 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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The moving finger of creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) having
written:

>I have a 2ft long piece of railroad track I want to use for an anvil.
>The surface is very rough and pitted and I want it absolutely flat.
>Any suggestions on how to "plane" this thing?   I've gone thru loads
>of 40 - 120 grit sanding disks, its WAY too slow of a process.  

Buy yourself a 3" angle grinder and do it with grinding disks, not
sanding disks. It will cost a bit more than a helpful machine shop
with a surface grinder, but you get a very useful hand tool at the end
of it. Shouldn't take too long, but be careful to keep it level and
not to develop hollows.

A 9" or 12" angle grinder is even better, but they're a bit expensive
to buy. Maybe you could borrow or hire one.


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:01:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding, Aluminium to zinc
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 11:26:37 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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The moving finger of Minty <simon_lamb@gbccmail.lehman.com> having
written:

>I'm finding it very difficuylt to weld parts of the Zinc 
>roof (which will be the focal point of the peice) to the Alu frame 
>specified by the client. 

Are you sure the roof is really zinc ?  I'd expect it to be galvanised
(zinc-dipped) steel instead, so that  you'd need to treat this as
welding aluminium to steel, rather than to pure zinc.

I believe the "Lumiweld" aluminium wedling rods are zinc-based, so
they might work as an aluminium/zinc welding rod. For steel though, I
don't know what you might use. No doubt a tig wizard would have some
bizarre process.

If your "zinc" is coated steel, then I'd abandon trying to weld it and
look for a solution using bolts or rivets.  If you need any touching
up, welding suppliers sell aerosol zinc sprays that match a galvanised
finish better than most paints.

If you do try welding zinc, watch out for the fumes. Drinking a pint
of milk is recommended afterwards.

Another aspect of sculpture that is rarely considered is the longevity
of the piece. If this work is expected to survive outdoors for some
years, then you're going to have to take as much care over corrosion
as any civil engineer. Aluminium & steel in close proximity is always
a bad idea for electrolytic corrosion. If you have to do it, try to
include an insulating layer of polythene sheet (builder's damp proof
course) or mastic..



From SLapinskas@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLapinskas@gnn.com ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:22:29
Organization: GNN
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  Please let me know if you've got used Sherline lathes and accessories for 
sale, I'm in the protoype stage of prototyping and would like to purchase 
some used equipment to get up and running. If you need details on hows what 
it is for then please contact me.

 

  Any leads would be appreciated as well!

Steve Lapinskas
slapinskas@aol.com



From heerings@worldaccess.nl Fri Sep 27 16:01:12 EDT 1996
Article: 34740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: heerings@worldaccess.nl
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Search For Technical Experts
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 20:16:31 GMT
Organization: World Access
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                             SEARCH FOR TECHNICAL EXPERTS


Product and/or process development requires specific information, knowledge
and/or experience. Specific information/knowledge/experience is mostly not easy
to track down, even not in centres for technology. One reason is that specific
knowledge/experience is mostly linked to individuals, the experts on a
specific topic.

In order to further the search for specific knowledge I am setting up a
database that refers to experts on all kinds of technological topics.
Companies that look for specific knowledge/experience can use the database
to get in touch with the needed expert.
If you are an expert and you like to be included in the database, please
send me (by email) the following information:


KEYWORDS describing your expertise:

* Field of technology, e.g. chemistry: 1 keyword.
* Application in terms of product/process, e.g. thermocouples: 1 - 3 keyword(s).
* Application in terms of industry/activity, e.g. refinery: 1 - 3 keyword(s).
* Description of expertise: preferably 3 keywords, e.g. misinterpretation,
  degradation, carbonmonoxide; if not possible: a small text is allowable.

 Some Rules:
 -For the selection of keywords you may use your own terminology.
 -A keyword may consist of more than one word.
 -Use the above description for each separate expertise you offer.
 -If you feel the use of keywords is too restrictive for a good description
  your expertise is probably not specific but general.


PERSONAL reference:

*      Name.
*      Name of company you represent (if applicable).
*      Email address and/or facsimile number.
*      Country/State.


Confidentiality: My name is J.H. Heerings (Dieren, The Netherlands). I am
writing from a personal interest and as an individual (no company is involved).
The above information will not be used for mailing lists or otherwise; only for
the abovementioned database. I will contact you at the moment the database will
start to run and is accessible for industry.


The information should be emailed to: heerings@worldaccess.nl



From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stepper Motors from Alternators??
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:42:39 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <Dxn8J3.8y9.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <322F3845.6843@CSCMAIL.CSC.COM> <50rvi6$k0n@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <50savp$bns@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <50skcu$qja@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d126.w.interaccess.com

In article <50skcu$qja@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>,
Tim Shoppa <shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca> wrote:
:In article <50savp$bns@blixen.aquilagroup.com>,
:Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B <kferguson@aquilagroup.com> wrote:
:>
:>On a related subject: Does anybody else use 12VDC applied to lathe's
:>induction motor as a brake?  Take  an induction motor, and turn the
:>shaft.  Now hook it up to a car battery, and turn it again. Impressed?
:>Don't be lazy when tightening the chuck, and leave the belts a little
:>loose!  If you use something other than a car battery,  you need to
:>clamp the voltage to a reasonable level, as the motor becomes a
:>generator , and will try to raise the voltage.  A car battery just
:>absorbs it , but a "wall wart" won't survive this.
:
:Is a car battery substantially better than just shorting the wires at
:high RPM?  I could certainly see how it would help a lot at low RPM.

With an AC induction motor you definitely need the battery.  The motor
won't have enough residual magnetic field to do much as a generator.
Hit it with DC at some substantial fraction of the locked-rotor
Amp. rating, though, and *WOW* does it stop fast -- even faster than if
you hit the "Reverse" switch, and you don't have to worry about the
motor actually reversing if you mis-time it.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From neidorff@uicc.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Message-ID: <Dxr76x.580@uicc.com>
Sender: news@uicc.com (USENET News System)
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Organization: Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp.
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 03:04:08 GMT
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I have a Logan 11" lathe.  My most recent project was to put
a block of steel on the cross slide and a #5 center drill in
the head chuck.  I then fed the steel into the drill.  It did
drill, but the cross slide vibrated quite a bit.  I suspect
that the nature of center drills had something to do with it.
I found that the BACK of the carriage actually was moving up
and down, and was pumping oil in and out of the gap.

I took that as a recommendation to tighten the back gibs.
When I did this a little bit, it stopped wiggling there, but
now the carriage moves much stiffer.  It is so stiff that the
friction clutch for the cross feed has a hard time moving it
even without tool contact!  I can adjust the clutch to work,
but it is quite tight.  Too tight?  How tight is right?  It
has to be tight to make a good cut, right?  I would like to
have the best accuracy that I can for normal spindle turning.
I only tightened those two screws a smidgen, perhaps 1/16 turn.

Anyway, with it tight, the compound still wiggles with the
center drill, but not the carriage back.  I also tightened the
cross slide gibs.  Better, but stiffer, and it still wiggles
with the center drill.  With a 1/4" twist drill or larger,
it cuts fine.

My real question is: did I go overboard with the tightening?
Those levers are all now quite tight, tighter than any machine
I can recall ever using, but I'm not that experienced.  Am I
expecting too much out of a Logan 11" lathe?

Thank you very much for your comments.
--
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564


From jds@cmaster.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jds@cmaster.com (James D. Szura)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: M42 cobalt steel drill for stainless steel?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 00:39:23 GMT
Organization: U.S. Micro-Hydropower
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stevec@hal-pc.org (stevec) wrote:

>
>        Is there any advantage to use cobalt steel bits on stainless 
>over carbide bits?
>
 Unless you have a very rigid setup, you are more likely to break a
carbide drill. A cobalt drill will handle a great deal of abuse.


From jhall@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:17 EDT 1996
Article: 34744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 12:58:32 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51bi8j$pmk@thor.atcon.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <511qe2$gou@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960911125413.5952B-100000@reliant>
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In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960911125413.5952B-100000@reliant>,
   "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:
>I suspect your spark plug has been metric longer than anything else 
on
>your car.  Spark plugs have been a 14mm thread as long as I can 
remember
>playing with spark plugs, and I started with a Model T Ford!
>
>John
>
Model T plugs had a 1/2 inch pipe thread.

another John


From tcarlson@skybus.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Tom Carlson <tcarlson@skybus.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
To: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca
Subject: Re: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
References: <51c27l$5hr@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
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some places i have found that are very helpful in small quantity 
purchases of fasteners and metal are pacific fasteners ltd 3934 
east 1st ave burnaby.... they even have a small cash sale only 
desk.... lots of fasteners and rod.....for metal i usually go to 
the metal mart in langley  113-20120-64th avenue ... it is a 
division of civic tool & die works ltd... if he does not have it 
he will get it for you and "reasonable" small retail prices... in 
a pinch you can try airarms fasteners on 76th in surrey but they 
are trying real hard to get away from anything "retail"... 



From lbartel@veribest.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:20 EDT 1996
Article: 34746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Les Bartel <lbartel@veribest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stepper Motors from Alternators??
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:27:34 -0500
Organization: VeriBest, Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32395336.1A65@veribest.com>
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Dan Mauch wrote:
> 
> I read an article in Nuts and Volts magazine a lonmg time ago. On the
> surface it seemed like an excellent idea. Then I started thinking about
> it. If there a 50 poles in a stepper motor and they get 200 steps per
> revolution how many steps would you get from a alternator, 4,6 or maybe
> even 12. I discarded the thought of making one.
> Dan

With gear or pulley reduction, you can get as many steps per revolution
you want.  Of course, if you insist on direct drive, this isn't an
option.  But if you want to use a very inefficient (but cheap) "motor",
adapting it in this way shouldn't be much of a problem.




 - les


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:01:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:36:10 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 31
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In-Reply-To: <51aulr$6mf@news-e2d.gnn.com> 

Good luck, Steve.  Sherline owners tend to hang onto their equipment
rather than sell it when they need something else (read "bigger"), mainly
because they didn't cost a whole lot (a relative term if I ever heard one)
brand-new, seldom lose appreciable accuracy and are so easy to store out
of the way when not in use.  As a result, I would be very surprised if you
could find used Sherline equipment cheaper than about 10% less than
brand-new.  However, give the used equipment dealers in the FAQ a try... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On Fri, 13 Sep 1996 SLapinskas@gnn.com wrote:

>   Please let me know if you've got used Sherline lathes and accessories for 
> sale, I'm in the protoype stage of prototyping and would like to purchase 
> some used equipment to get up and running. If you need details on hows what 
> it is for then please contact me.
> 
>  
> 
>   Any leads would be appreciated as well!
> 
> Steve Lapinskas
> slapinskas@aol.com
> 
> 
> 


From luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:01:23 EDT 1996
Article: 34748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Stewart <luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB used Emco Compact 8 accessories
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:47:44 -0400
Organization: The Communications Research Centre
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Message-ID: <323957F0.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
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Almus Kenter wrote:
> 
> JIMMY ARAKAKI:INDUSTRIAL DESIGN/VISUALIZATION SM2-SFO (james_a@verifone.com) wrote:
> : I'm looking for some used EMCO Compact 8 (lathe) accessories to fit my
> : budget.
> 
> : I'm interested in obtaining the following:
...

> Does anybody else make accessories for this lathe? (eg chucks)
> The lathe mounting is via a DIN standard (DIN 55021)

Threads on the compact-8. (in the news sense, not in the machining
sense!)

I have a compact-8, and love it. Yes, the lack of spindle accessories
is a "problem", but it isn't.

My faceplate came from a far-eastern copy, that I picked up in
europe. I hand-scraped it into a beautiful fit - my first attempt
at hand scraping. My wife lost a tube of gaudy red lipstick (used
it for marking high spots) and I got a few hours practice.

The face plate, btw, had a center hole that was too small for the
compact-8's.

My lathe came with chucks with home-made backplates, and they all
fit very well. 

Someone a while ago here suggested that the backplates should
register on the OUTSIDE of the spindle; that is parallel. This would
make making backplates really easy.

Metalmart- or something similar - sells cast iron circles by the
inch - they would make dandy backplates - I have been looking for
cast iron for this purpose. My lathe came with steel backplates,
but I'd think that cast iron would be easier to machine.

Yes- the above is a "pain", but at least the chucks, when they are
eventually mounted, are really secure. I like the mounting arrangement,
and quite often turn things "backwards" because it is easier to do
that than it is to re-work the tooling.

Sorry for the rambling;

John Stewart


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:01:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 10:39:35 GMT
Lines: 71


Well, 10 Lb. of water is 1 Imperial gallon, so who needs a pencil?  In 
the metric system, it's too easy to misplace a decimal point.  A 
hundredth of a MM is a very small unit, but bigger than a thou.  The 
celsius degree is too large for a comfort scale at 17.22222- F.  Most 
goods in Canada are sold in soft metric measure.  Metric sized metals are 
hard to get.  By soft metric, I mean Imperial, or US packaging with the 
metric equivalent on the label.  Why else does it say something like 
" 225 grams " on a label?  This is realy 8 US ounces rounded to the 
nearest whole number.  Sure, some things are in metric packaging, that's 
one reason why we pay so much more for goods, than in the US.  We shouldn't
have gone metric until the US made the change.  

I too can use both systems, but until the US metricates, Canada will have 
a dual system.  When Canada adopted the ISO Metric system, many people 
found out that fasteners from Japan, Switzerland, and East European countries
would not interchange.


In a previous article, dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner) says:

>
>
>I understand your reluctance to change to the metric system. I used to feel 
>the same way you did.
>I was educated in Canada and when I first went to school everything was done
>in the inch system. I too learned with difficulty the manipulations of fractions.
>I even remember Russian school teachers visiting our schools to learn teaching 
>techniques etc. This was during the time of the cold war period and most Russians
>would not normally admit that some of our methods were better. In fact when they 
>saw how we were able to do calculations with fractions they were amazed. Children
>in Russia did not do fractions untill they were twice the age of ourselves.
>Fractions to them were treated as a subject on ratios and proportions they
>had nothing to do with measuring lengths or distances.
>I didn't realize untill much later that most of the Russian surprise came from
>the disbelief that we would use such a "Backward" system to measure distances.
>
>Canada went completely metric about 20 years ago. 
>
>The inch system now is so backward to me that I simply wouldn't go back even though
>I am completely at ease with both systems.
>You never change units with Metric system. You simply move the  decimal point around.
>
>1 Meter has 1000mm Which is also equal to  100cm. I simply move the decimal point.
>1000 Meters = 1 Kilometer
>
>Even weight and volume have a unique relationship with metric. 1 litre of water 
>weighs 1 Kilogram.
>Quickly tell me how much does one pint of water weigh? 
>Tell me how large a container do you need to hold 20 pounds of water?
>A 2 year old kid raised with the metric system would have those answers before
>you could find a pencil.
>
>Try dialling in 3-21/32 diameter on your lathe cross feed dial. You can't.
>unless you know your decimal equivilents or look them up. Even then you don't
>have an exact number. You end up with 3.65625
>
>Now try dialling in 75 mm on your lathe cross feed. Instant positioning plus
>and exact number to 20 million decimal places if you desire.
>
>
>
>Just some thoughts from someone who knows both systems 
>
>Dal Wagner
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ae161@lafn.org Fri Sep 27 16:01:25 EDT 1996
Article: 34750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ae161@lafn.org (James Lemon)
Subject: Re: Help ME Please!!!
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	For a 1/4-20 tap, use a #8 drill.
	Jim Lemon
	ae161@lafn.org
-- 
q



From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Date: 13 Sep 1996 05:51:38 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 20
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Try a Jewelry wholesaler.  Should be one in your town, look in
yellow pages - sometimes under watches or clocks, as well.  For 
small qty, maybe you can "borrow" a little from a jeweler.


Silver about 12.00/qt, gold about 25.00/oz.  Have no idea how
many grams of Ag or Au in each, but should go a littel ways....

/mark

Paul Baker (pdbsf+@pitt.edu) wrote:
: Hope this is the appropriate news group for this question... I'd like to
: try electroplating silver (or maybe zinc/tin) onto steel.  I'm familiar
: with the theory, I just can't seem to find a sources for electrolytes. 
: Can someone refer me to a distributor ? 

: Thanks in advance,

: Paul Baker
: pdbsf+@pitt.edu


From albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at Fri Sep 27 16:01:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Albrecht Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 19:21:36 +0200
Organization: TU Wien
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References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> <09960813130456.OUI34.SLogan@gnn.com>
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:

> In article <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien. ac.at> , From Albrecht 
> Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> , the following was written:
> > It's obvious, that 1 000 000 mm = 1 km,
> > but what is 1 000 000 inches?
> > 
> > WHITHOUT calculator !!!!!
> >
> > you`ve 1 minute time.
> 
> 15 miles, 1377 yds, 2 ft, 4 in.
> or
> 13.715 nautical miles
> or
> 4.5716 leagues
> or
> 25 km, 400 m
> or
> 111111.1111 spans
> or
> 126.2626 furlongs
> or
> 1262.6262 chains
> or
> 126262.6263 links
> or
> 13888.8889 fathoms
> 
> Whew, with 13 seconds to spare <VBG>!

you're quite good, doing that without electronic tool, just with your
constant table, shifting the decimal point 6 times. (simply THE point
for the metric system)

I should have said:
1 234 567 890 inches, to include real calculation.

any takers?

albrecht


From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Fri Sep 27 16:01:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Subject: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
Date: 13 Sep 1996 16:30:45 GMT
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Anyone care to recommend any retail metal/hardware suppliers in
Vancouver BC?  At the moment, what I need is some 17/64" drill
rod, a 20-foot length of CRS angle (1.5 x 1.5 x 3/16"),
and a couple dozen metric socket screws.  I'm met by blank
stares in the retail hardware stores I've asked in, and the local
industrial-sort suppliers won't talk to me unless I'm ordering
hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.  I know of a half-dozen
places in the US that'll mail me the stuff, but I'd end up paying
much more in shipping and customs fees than the material is worth.
(Shipping 20-foot lengths of angle stock is particularly not a good 
idea.)  Any recommendations?

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Fri Sep 27 16:01:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:41:22 GMT
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Albrecht Kadlec (albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at) wrote:

[ ... ]

> It's almost ridiculous, that people defend a system, that has several
> ways to state the same distance. 
> It's obvious, that 1 000 000 mm = 1 km, but what is 1 000 000 inches?

> WHITHOUT calculator !!!!!

> you`ve 1 minute time.


Easy, a thousand kilo-inches, or 1 kkinch.

How many eggs in a metric dozen?  10?


--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:06:21 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 37
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In article <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien. ac.at> , From Albrecht 
Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> , the following was written:
> It's obvious, that 1 000 000 mm = 1 km,
> but what is 1 000 000 inches?
> 
> WHITHOUT calculator !!!!!
>
> you`ve 1 minute time.

15 miles, 1377 yds, 2 ft, 4 in.
or
13.715 nautical miles
or
4.5716 leagues
or
25 km, 400 m
or
111111.1111 spans
or
126.2626 furlongs
or
1262.6262 chains
or
126262.6263 links
or
13888.8889 fathoms

Whew, with 13 seconds to spare <VBG>!
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/13/96 13:06
 http://www.loganact.com




From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:31 EDT 1996
Article: 34756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB- CHEAP lathe for home
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:06:14 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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I don't like the idea of "CHEAP" but for quality try:

NEW REPAIR PARTS AND ACCESSORIES FOR LOGAN LATHES
------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Logan Actuator Co.
4956 N. Elston Ave.
Chicago, IL  60630-1782
Tel. 312-736-7500
Fax  312-736-6854
E-Mail: SLogan@gnn.com
http://www.loganact.com

MACHINE TOOLS AND PARTS, USED AND NEW
------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Meridian Machinery
PO Box 1
Babylon, NY 11702
Dave Ficken
Tel. 516-956-1442
E-Mail: mermac@ix.netcom.com
http://hre.com/meridian

PKE, Inc.
P.O. Box 6595
Libertyville, IL 60048-6595
Pete Welzen
Tel. 847-362-0014
Fax  847-362-5657
E-Mail: pmcpke@concentric.net
http://www.concentric.net/~pmcpke

Plaza Machinery Co.
P.O. Box 14
Bethel, VT  05032
Joe Bergamo
Tel. 802-234-9673
Fax  802-234-6325
E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com

Richard Triemstra     
6238 College Dr.
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127-2554
Tel. 313-563-7571
Fax  810-756-1524
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/13/96 13:05
 http://www.loganact.com




From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:17:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <3230A609.3867@the-spa.com> <00001f0c+00003406@msn.com> <511e91$n2i@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960910133809.10348A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <3237A0D2.11564B37@lemur.com> <ginger.521.001A0F3F@pcm.ultranet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960913082554.5153A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
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In <Pine.OSF.3.91.960913082554.5153A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu> writes: 
>
>
>Amen, Ron.  About the only accessory that SHERLINE does not offer is 
>extra time.  Probably be too expensive for us anyway.  Sigh...
Dear Dr. Mike:

Don't tell SHERLINE about this, but I will be happy to sell you all the
extra time you need at the bargain price of $10.00 per day. Please send
a certified check in the proper amount to me ( orders over $1000.00
will receive the latest SHERLINE price sheet at no charge!)

Hey, it's better than " PAY OFF ALL YOUR BILLS" right?

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:01:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Pl
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:12:28 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 36
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

> I just sold a mill-drill (RF-30, Rong-Fu) because I wasn't happy with
> it. I don't know a lot about the type of work you do. Caveats aside,
> here's my opinion....

I've used my Rong-Fu mill-drill for several years; it's the 700 lb one.
Yes, it's not the most rigid thing in the world, but it will drill a 
1" hole in 1" plate w/o complaining, and it's actually quite rugged
compared to my 10" Atlas lathe.  I avoid trying to mill large slots
in stainless, absolutely.  I do try to keep milling setups as low as
possible, and tighten the gibs before trying to do tricky work.  It
sure beats trying to mill on the lathe, and lots of neat work has been
done that way.

Yes, I wouldn't mind having a Bridgeport mill or the 16" gearhead Monarch
lathe I used while at UC Davis, but I find that if I take my time and
think ahead most projects are possible and I don't end up with so much
money in the machinery that I feel I have to use it every week.

I just finished a new boiler for my boat; it involved drilling several 
13/16" holes and 112 5/8" holes in 8" steel pipe - no problem with the mill, 
but I did end up avoiding machining a 8" x 1" steel circle w/ the lathe due to
lack of rigidity and strength to handle an interrupted cut of that size.


Your milage may vary and all that....



---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:49:36 -0500
Organization: honeywell
Lines: 18
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Ron Ginger wrote:
> 
>snip
> 
> I also strongly agree that you must have plans for work sized to the tool. Ive
> seen some rigs to make table extensions, headstock risers, etc. If thats your
> need, buy a bigger machine.
> snip
> 
> Ron Ginger
> my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger

I have the headstock riser and extended toolpost.  They are extremely rugged (the 
headstock riser is solid aluminum) and work well.  I do not keep them in place, but when I 
need to make a larger diameter item, they are quick to insert.  If your needs are for 
something 5" or less, I think the Sherline is super.
-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis


From mfy@swcp.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Michael F. Young" <mfy@swcp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: South Bend 4218 Vertical Mill
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 18:07:04 -0600
Organization: Southwest Cyberport
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Hi All,
I am a novice hsm and recently acquired a South Bend vertical mill Model
4218. I am looking for a parts sheet or operating manual, and am
wondering where they hid the serial number. Also, does anyone know what
these collets are called besides "South Bend collets"? Look sort of like
Erickson except with only one slit. Any leads and/or info appreciated.

Thanks in advance:)
Mike Young
mfy@swcp.com


From dmauch@seanet.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:37:58 -0700
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32397FD6.50F7@seanet.com>
References: <32364B68.643E@interaccess.com> <32372367.69148982@news.islandnet.com> <51a4hf$69i@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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I order quite a bit from Enco and never had that problem. It sound like 
just a local problem or some clerk that doesn't know what he is doing.
As a metter of fact I have found the local Enco easy to work with. Yes 
it is true that when they are out of stock they will ship from other 
locations at NO EXTRA CHARGE. Thats OK with me. Before I would contact 
the attorney general, I would call the local manager and see if this is 
company policy or his stores policy.
Good Luck
Dan


From qkjfioasdn@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: qkjfioasdn@aol.com (Qkjfioasdn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metric vs English (Was: Metric system in the USA?)
Date: 15 Sep 1996 17:04:25 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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If possible would you want the US to start using the metric system?  Why
or why not?

=David Ryder

Please send e-mail.
Please E-me directly or preferably to:

E-me.com@juno.com


From albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at Fri Sep 27 16:01:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Albrecht Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what metal is used in school rings and how are they manufactured
Date: 13 Sep 1996 17:30:27 +0200
Organization: TU Wien
Lines: 45
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References: <323230C7.6FCE@earthlink.net> <50f0ck$bg7@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
	<6kfAWLAvmfLyEwdF@abdab.demon.co.uk> <50p7ud$6ub@mrn
	<DxEtyM.Bx9@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:

> In a previous article, dfe@earthlink.net (Dan F Evans) says:
> 
> >Chris Marlow wrote:
> >> 
> >> We do not have such things. Knowing the Brits, if a bridge fell down, the
> >> last thing we would want to do was remember it with a ring! We would forget
> >> it like all the other cockups!!!!!
> >> 
> >> Just my tupence worth!!!!
> >> 
> >> Regards Chris cam@bra01.icl.co.uk
> >> 
> >> Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote in article
> >> <50p7ud$6ub@mrnews.mro.dec.com>...
> >> 
> >> ----------BIG SNIP-------------------------
> >> 
> >> > No class rings in England?!?
> >> > call it "the brass rat.")  I've heard that there is an
> >> > engineering school (or an engineering society?) in Canada
> >> > that has rings made from iron taken from a bridge that failed
> >> > disasterously, as a reminder of an engineer's responsibility.
> >> >
> >
> >It's too bad that section of the Titanic's hull couldn't be recovered
> >the other day; they could have made a few class rings out of it.  
> >
> >I read an article a couple of years ago about how the steel in the
> >Titanic had an excessive amount of sulfur in it and when they hit the
> >iceberg it shattered like glass.
> >
> 
> Well, you could always take a scuba diving holliday in Greece.  The 
> Titanics sister ship, the Olympic, was sunk there by a mine in WW1.  It 
> is in somewhat shallower water!  The latter ship was being used as a 
> hospital  at the time.  Then again, it may be too deep for scuba, but 
> Costeu ( Sp? ) dived on it with a mini-sub.

you mean those mini-subs called bathyscap's (sp?), designed to get a
glimps of -11.000 meters ? (philippine & japan trench (voc?))

albrecht


From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-11.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: 15 Sep 1996 18:55:50 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51hjfm$20io@useneta1.news.prodigy.com>
References: <50ps8s$sbh@lemon.easynet.co.uk> <518g2p$eq3@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <5196gt$429@tin.monsanto.com> <pine.osf.3.92a.960912172345.7820b-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <51dskv$3v3@cherry.news.easynet.net>
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Nicely done.  

If someone knows all this, they should just agree with you as I'm sure 
there are plenty that welcome such information.  That is what I sort of 
thought the Newsgroups were for, to help others.

Information like this may or maynot be in the FAQ, but apparently some 
folks are not aware of its' existance.  Jim K posts the FAQ in its 
entirety every month, God Bless Him...

Paul in AJ AZ
ppierce@inficad.com



From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:01:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: soldering
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:38:07 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
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Colin Montoya-Lewis wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> My wife asked me to solder a leak in an electric tea kettle, and I am
> wondering if there are any potential problems with doing this, like lead
> in solder or the heat of the kettle simply remelting the solder?
> 
> Thanks,
> Colin

Colin: As it is now forbidden by the EPA (I think) to use lead solder in 
the joining of copper water-pipes, you can buy lead-free solder at a 
plumbing supply house...the teakettle would not reach a sufficient 
temperature to melt the solder unless it was to boil dry....

			Jack




From albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at Fri Sep 27 16:01:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Albrecht Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Protecting springs in corrosive environ.
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:03:50 +0200
Organization: TU Wien
Lines: 18
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Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net> writes:

> I use an inexpensive garden sprayer to spray a corrosive patina
> solution. The sprayer has only one metal part, the little spring in the
> trigger device. I'm replacing the spring every few days (at a cost of 32
> cents) because it corrodes away. I'd like to find a way of coating or
> protecting the spring so that it doesn't get ruined so quickly. I can't
> find SS springs around my small town.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Doug

maybe you can use a 'spring' plastic strip instead.
You'll have to be inventive regarding placement in the existing
spaces. 

albrecht


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:12:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 25
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Sep 13  1:12:35 PM CDT 1996

In <51aulr$6mf@news-e2d.gnn.com> SLapinskas@gnn.com () writes: 
>
>  Please let me know if you've got used Sherline lathes and
accessories for 
>sale, I'm in the protoype stage of prototyping and would like to
purchase 
>some used equipment to get up and running. If you need details on hows
what 
>it is for then please contact me.
>
> 
>
>  Any leads would be appreciated as well!
>
>Steve Lapinskas
>slapinskas@aol.com
>
Go to our Home page at ;
http://hre.com/and cllick on the used SHERLINE link.

Good luck

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:45 EDT 1996
Article: 34768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Green Wheel Grinders
Date: 13 Sep 1996 15:25:42 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: bairdo@ix.netcom.com

I use a "green wheel" to grind HSS all the time.  I think it
works better than regular wheels.  It wears down faster than
the wheels you're "supposed" to use for HSS, but I find I
have less of a heating problem.

N.b according to several books I've read, you can't get a
truly sharp edge on carbide with a green wheel. No matter
what you do, the edge will have small cracks and chips when
sharpened on a green wheel.  It will seem to be sharp, it
will work, but if you look at the edge under a 10X magnifier
you'll see chips.  To get a really good edge on
carbide, you need a diamond wheel (which you have). So use 
the green wheel for roughing carbide, and finish on the
diamond.  

Another caution: if you sharpen HSS on the diamond wheel,
use water.  Carbon dissolves into steel at high temperatures,
and guess what a diamond is made of?  And the local 
temperature right at the point of grinding can get plenty
hot enough to dissolve the diamond into the steel.  So
use water.



From s.l.dehaven@larc.nasa.gov Fri Sep 27 16:01:45 EDT 1996
Article: 34769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: s.l.dehaven@larc.nasa.gov (Stan DeHaven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: source of oxy/acetylene welding supplies???
Date: 13 Sep 1996 15:59:30 GMT
Organization: NASA LaRC
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <51c0d2$kk0@reznor.larc.nasa.gov>
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In article <50tgqa$f7@nw101.infi.net>, maverick@richmond.infi.net says...
>
>I am looking for a source of oxy/acetylene welding supplies.  I have finally 
>purchased a Victor Range-Master set with the biggest tanks I could by 
>(88cu.ft. oxy/75cu.ft. acetylene) and have seveeral projects pending.
>
>Problem is finding a source of rod.  All my local (Richmond , VA area) seem 
to 
>stock is the copper coated mild steel rods and basic brazing rods.  I am very 
>interested in finding a greater variety, especialy bronze building rod for 
>slow speed shaft rebuilding and anything that would help me weld approx. 20ga 
>sheetmetal without warping as much.
>
>Eventually I also wish to find a source of aluminum rods and supplies for gas 
>welding aluminum.
>
>Please reply with any known sources.
>
>Thanks,
>The Dragon at 
>maverick@richmond.infi.net


If you don't have this book.  It's very informative. Lot's of safety 
information as well.


'The Oxy-Acetylene Handbook'
Published by Esab Co. Inc. Ph:(800)372-2123
Part No. 781F00, Cost $11.25


Older copies of the book with the same title were publised by Linde Division 
of Union Carbide Corp.  A used bookstore in your area may have a copy.  
Otherwise a distributor of the book can be located by calling the Esab number.







From edk4@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 13 Sep 1996 02:58:38 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 29
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The very first time I dealt with ENCO, I drove up to their NH
showroom with a list of 20 items I wanted to buy. After playing
"here it is - no that's not what I wanted", at the counter for half
an hour, we concluded that they only had ten of the twenty 
items I wanted. "No problem", they said, "we'll back order the
rest and you'll have them in a week or two".

I paid with a credit card and left. I continued to receive 'drops'
>from  that order for (I'm not making this up) 14 months! For a
while, it was like the tool-of-the-every-other-week-club, and was
sort of interesting, since none of the things back ordered were
critical in any way. By the time I had received the 3/8 x 16 tap,
one year and 2 months after placing the order, the 'fun' had
definitely worn thin.

The only saving grace was that, since the order was over $200
to start with, and I had paid with a credit card (or maybe that had
nothing to do with it - who knows with these people) none of the
subsequent shipments had any shipping costs. (to me anyway)

Getting backordered by ENCO *and* paying for the shipping is
really the worst of both worlds. Caveat emptor out there, especially
when dealing with ENCO. See it, touch it, hold it, buy it and take it
with you, or just say, "no thank you, please call me when it comes in"

------------------
Ed Kingsley




From macnosy@jasik.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: macnosy@jasik.com (Steve Jasik)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 12:25:01 -0700
Organization: Jasik Designs
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: iifx.jasik.com

In article <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>, kenter@flashman.harvard.edu
(Almus Kenter) wrote:

>        Well I finally did it, disregarding the ``look'' from the wife
>I bought a used Emco Maier Compact-8. Said lathe comes with 3&4 jaw chucks,
>steady rest and turret style tool holder. Seems to be in decent 
>condition. So..if anybody out there in netland is willing to give
>me:
>                advice on needed accessories and sources for such accesories.
>                Tips on setup,use,maintenance etc...
>        
>                  and of course
>                general encouragement
>
>I would be grateful....
>
>

Get them quick, the word I got at IMTS from the VP at Republic Lagun is 
that they are about to go bankrupt unless they raise cash soon.
The VP said that they had made offers to many firms and are looking for money.

While I suspect that someone will take over their stock of spare parts, ...
you should be careful.

It is a pity as they have a nice line of machinery.

Steve

----------------------------------------------------------
Steve Jasik             Author of 'The Debugger & MacNosy'
343 Trenton Way         http://www.jasik.com
Menlo Park CA 94025     415-322-1386  Voice Only


From albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at Fri Sep 27 16:01:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Albrecht Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:45:04 +0200
Organization: TU Wien
Lines: 63
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josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam) writes:

> In <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960910202222.28062B-100000@saul5.u.washington.edu> Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> writes:
> 
> >The U.S. is the only country besides Nauru that uses the English system.
> >We are losing the economic race by a furlong per fortnight because of it
> >( except in electronics, because we do use metric there ).
> 
> The U.S. is definitely not the only country still using
> English-based measurements, though in some places the simple
> English measurements may be expressed as long, ugly metric
> decimals.
> 
> Some of the ugliest standards use hybrid measurements.  For
> example, the Italian standard for threading on the bottom
> bracket bearing cups on a bicycle is 36mm diameter x 24 threads
> per inch.  Luckily this standard has been largely displaced by
> the standard used in Japan and Britain, which is entirely
> English, not metric, 1.370 x 24 TPI.  The French developed an
> entirely metric bottom bracket thread, 35mm x 1.0, but even the
> French have mostly stopped using it on high-quality bicycles.

ever seen SHIMANO components: 9mm or (newer 11mm) front hub axle with
1mm thread "Steigung" (voc?) 
The italians (campagnolo) had 24 TPI which was just so slightly off
that it cought after some turns.


Pipe threads and hours are the only domain, where we're not fully
decimal.
No one wants to change hours/mins/secs (which are just definitions),
and no one can change years/months/days, as they are physical
constants (tilt of earth axis/lunar rotation -ok, not exactly, but
still similar-/earth rotation).

If you talk about the english system, try to get an explanation of
their old currency system (before going decimal).
Farthings/Shillings/halfpences/pences/.... and not two factors are
equal. It's so complicated that nobody can remember without looking it
up.

It's so much simpler just using the ten as a base.

It's almost ridiculous, that people defend a system, that has several
ways to state the same distance. 
It's obvious, that 1 000 000 mm = 1 km, but what is 1 000 000 inches?

WHITHOUT calculator !!!!!

you`ve 1 minute time.

- just my $0.02, i've got to follow this almost all british newsgroup,
being all metric.
My xcalc only terminates, when I log out.

I hope you can understand my position - I can understand that any
crap seems natural, once you're accustomed to it.



There're physical constants, and there're useless constants.

albrecht


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:01:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Message-ID: <1996Sep13.093417.24972@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 13 Sep 96 09:34:17 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <pdbsf+-1209961346450001@gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu>
Distribution: world
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In article <pdbsf+-1209961346450001@gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu>, pdbsf+@pitt.edu (Paul Baker) writes:
|>Hope this is the appropriate news group for this question... I'd like to
|>try electroplating silver (or maybe zinc/tin) onto steel.  I'm familiar
|>with the theory, I just can't seem to find a sources for electrolytes. 
|>Can someone refer me to a distributor ? 

Try the FAQ:

   -  Caswell Electroplating in Miniature
      (315) 597-5140

      Reportedly has all kinds of small to medium plating supplies and is
      very helpful.
 
   -  Dalmar
      (941) 275-6540, (941) 275-1731 (FAX)
      http://www.peganet.com/dalmar/dalmarhm.html
      dalmar@peganet.com

      Manufacturer of electroplating equipment.


From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:50 EDT 1996
Article: 34774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Subject: Re: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 14:08:11 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <3239cafa.173064500@news.islandnet.com>
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shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa) wrote:

>Anyone care to recommend any retail metal/hardware suppliers in
>Vancouver BC? 


You are asking for three seperate suppliers here ...

First of all as far as hardware stores are concerned, you can't do
better than Home Depot.

> At the moment, what I need is some 17/64" drill
>rod

AJ Foresyth or Wilkinson steel (probably the first)

A 20-foot length of CRS angle (1.5 x 1.5 x 3/16"),

As above (btw, Wilkinson has a minimum order of $50 but you are
probably there with the angle)

>and a couple dozen metric socket screws. ]

Acklands




From korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu Fri Sep 27 16:01:51 EDT 1996
Article: 34775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!news.tju.edu!jeflin.tju.edu!korenma1
From: Eric Korenman <korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: most durable paint?
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:50:14 -0500
Organization: Thomas Jefferson University
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jeflin.tju.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I am restoring an old telephone made of cast zinc.
The old factory finish (I assume baked on) is shot.
I am trying to find the most durable repainting method.

Some have suggested spray on lacquer paint, but I know it wont hold up
and will chip quickly.

Some have suggested automotive painting centers.  But is this any more
durable?

Can I reproduce the original finish?

please e-mail responses.
Much thanks
Eric S. Korenman
korenma1@jeflin.tju


From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:52 EDT 1996
Article: 34776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Date: 13 Sep 1996 20:35:45 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Reply-To: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Try Mike Caswell at Caswell Electroplating:
-----------------
CASWELL 4336 Route 31, PALMYRA, New York, 14522, USA

                                 Tel 315 597 5140 Fax 315 597 1457

            Get on our Emailing list for new products and technical tips!
Just send us your address

                                       caswell@vivanet.com
----------------
I've bought from him via mail, and he seems reliable. Offers some small
kits (they work!). Also, he'll give you advice over the phone. 

Cheers,

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From jet@jettools.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:53 EDT 1996
Article: 34777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!snunews.snu.ac.kr!usenet.kornet.nm.kr!usenet.etri.re.kr!news.kreonet.re.kr!news.dacom.co.kr!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Shannon <jet@jettools.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: JET's web site
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 09:49:41 -0700
Organization: JET Equipment & Tools
Lines: 11
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)

Just wanted to let you know that JET's metalworking catalog is 
available to download off our web site (just click on the catalogs 
icon on the home page). It is divided into two sections: metalworking 
and metalforming. The metalforming section is very small, but the 
metalworking section is very large (about 4.5mb), so it may take some 
time to download. Both sections are in Adobe Acrobat PDF format, and 
there is a link to Adobe to download the Acrobat Reader from our 
catalog web page.

Shannon
JET Equipment & Tools


From rrice2@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: 13 Sep 1996 09:21:17 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 16
Sender: news@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <519att$pv8@cherry.news.easynet.net>, Chrish@easynet.co.uk
(Chris Heapy) writes:

>Very briefly it's simply a matter of setting the the topslide to 30
>deg (for a 60 deg. inc. angle thread), with the tool still set at
>right angles to the work of course, and using the topslide to feed the
>tool into the work. The tool will follow the angle of the right-hand
>land of the thread whilst just cutting on the left hand side (for
>normal threads).

Gosh! In my original reading of the comment on setting the top slide to
half the thread angle, I got in my mind that the writer meant 15 degrees,
or half the "usual" angle of 30 degrees. That's what happens when I try to
think, I guess! Sorry to have cluttered the thread with a stupid question.

RR


From gagemaker@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.fibr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gagemaker@aol.com (Gagemaker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can we find LARGE Acme-threaded shaft &/or nut?
Date: 15 Sep 1996 21:59:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

30 inch long acme threads and a nut would probably be no problem for a
gage manufacturer. Try one. They might be willing to do it gratis.
Steve Walker
gagemaker@aol.com
 "It's up to those who can to help those who can't."


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:56 EDT 1996
Article: 34780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: 13 Sep 1996 22:02:15 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <51cll7$vmh@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2

In <51bj1h$54p@mrnews.mro.dec.com>, Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>Lindsay Publications sells copies of South Bend's "How To
>Run a Lathe" book, as well as another pamphlet from S.B.
>called  "Keeping Your Lathe In Trim" or some such title.

THe SB book is terrific.
>
>As far as parts goes, Plaza Machinery in Bethel, VT, and
>Sobel Machinery in NJ are both reliable dealers in used
>machinery.

I have purchased a lot of stuff from Sobel (in Closter, NJ -
quite near NYC) and he is scrupulously honest.

>
>I think South Bend will tell you the year it was made if
>you call them up and give them the serial # (look on the
>right-hand end of the bed between the front ways).
>
>Oh yeah - use the correct oil in the headstock bearings.
>You want machine oil with a Saybolt viscosity of 100 at
>100 degrees F.  That translates into about a #6 or #7 oil,
>i.e., quite thin.
>

Actually, I swear by Mobil 1 for the spindle bearings, but
this has been examined in detail elsewhere.  The most
important thing to do is to post your questions up here,
as there is a fair amount of accumulated wisdom on tap here
about these machines.  

Seems like every other home machinist had a 9" SB lathe at
one time. 

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================

That sig really doesn't belong - should be:

Oily, greasy lumps of cast iron (covered with knobs and gear wheels)
residing in basement.  


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Fri Sep 27 16:01:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!netrix.com!holder
From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:07:00 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <51k1fk$6id@newshost.netrix.com>
References: <3237B0CE.63EE@ultranet.com> <51a850$1qg@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51d4th$28v@test-sun.erols.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Reginald barron (barronr@mail.erols.com) wrote:
: jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) wrote:
: >I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
: >missing?
: >
: >Mill


: If you grind them long ways on the diagonal, they make good
: home made reamers.

: Reg Barron

  Low resolution but cheap gauging of small holes is the reason I most
often find myself wanting some. Actually I did think up a tool once
(I later found out it was very similar to a fixed size box turning tool)
that starting with a 7/16" drill blank would have saved some steps. It
probably would have cost some steps too, having to deal with the thing
already being hard. Also for use as parallels, but then I'd have to have
two sets.

Bruce


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:01:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!csulb.edu!csus.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend 9" Lathe  --Need Help
Date: 15 Sep 1996 02:51:20 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 38
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
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In article <32382223.22CA@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us>,
Phillip DeBrito  <pdebrito@esu3.esu3.k12.ne.us> wrote:
>
>I've got the Metalworking FAQ so I have the addresses, but who do the
>users of this newsgroup prefer for tooling sources?
>
>
>Thanks ahead of time!
>
>Phil DeBrito
>Beginner At Large


Without question: MSC. These folks really want your business
regardless of the size of your order, have almost everything listed in
the catalog in stock, and you'll get your order in two days or less.
No other company I have dealt with has come close. example: I faxed in
an order one day for about $40 worth of stuff. Two hours later I got a
phone call from them. Seems a 65-cent item was out of stock and they
wanted to know if I would accept the next grade up at $1.25! How's
that for service?

Do not, repeat NOT, ever buy anything from Enco regardless of their
price. They have the lowest prices, but you get what you pay for.
Their quality is the lowest in the industry and their customer service
is an embarrassment to the mail-order industry. Should you have a
problem you'll be insulted and cursed at. I know this not from just
one order with them, but seven (I'm a slow learner). Enco flames show
up frequently on r.c.m. from others, which suggests I am not the only
one who holds this view.

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br Fri Sep 27 16:01:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp.earthlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!rjo02.embratel.net.br!home.iis.com.br!ehaddadf
From: Eduardo Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Standard Slots?
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:34:52 -0300
Organization: Inside Information Systems
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.3.91.960912183008.10963B-100000@home.iis.com.br>
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In-Reply-To: <50qks1$oof@Nntp1.mcs.net> 


I've just received my first milling machine - a Prazi.
I'm not sure but I think its slots are not standard. I went through 
Machinery's Handbook and found some standards for slots, bolts and slot 
nuts but Prazi's dimensions are different.
I've done a "drawing" for the slot.
As many mail order catalogs simply mention 3/8" slots, without giving its 
profile, could you tell me if I should by hardware for a 3/8" or 5/16" 
profile?

Here is the "drawing"(Argh!)

Thanks!


 ________    A     ________
|        |        |        |
|        |        |        |
|        |        | D      |
|        |        |        |
|   _____|        |_____   |
|  |                    |  |
|  |                 C  |  |
|  |          B         |  |
|  |____________________|  |
|__________________________|

A(throat) =  0.387"    9.8mm
B(width)  =  0.620"   15.7mm
C(height) =  0.310"    7.9mm
D(height) =  0.307"    7.8mm
   


Eduardo Haddad Filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br




From wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:02:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk (wayne weedon)
Subject: MIG Welding thin Mild Steel
Message-ID: <842908790snz@fdos.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 21:19:50 GMT
Organization: Fdos Design
Reply-To: wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
X-NNTP-Posting-User: wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk
X-Mail2News-Path: fdos.demon.co.uk

I have owned a cheap MIG welder for some years.  A Seely 120 XT, which
is the same as many other machines available on the DIY market under
various other names.  It's fan cooled and nominally rated at 120 Amps.

Anyway to my problem I have enormous difficulty welding thin sheet
steel, like car bodywork.  Blowing holes though on butt welds very
easily!  I use an Argon/Co2 mix formalated for this application but
cannot seem to get the thing to weld properly (Or should i say myself!)

I can run a weld though the middle of the same gauge sheet without
blowing though, with a small bead appearing on the opposite side of the
material.

My question is are there any secrets to doing this on these small MIG
welders?  Or should I invest in a more expensive machine?

-- 
wayne weedon


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:02 EDT 1996
Article: 34785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Baked on finishes
Date: 15 Sep 1996 11:33:52 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <51gpj0$r5@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <323A4C53.6AE0@intnet.net> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960914224803.1825C-100000@spork.callamer.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny11-40.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Sep 15  4:33:52 AM PDT 1996

Get in touch with Bruce Corneto at Micro Coat. He deals in ceramic
coatings and has some very nice colors as well. Tell him that I sent
you and he will be happy to expalin his process. It may be a viable
alternative for you other than powder coating.

His URL is ;

http://www.wco.com/~sc7500

Nice guy and very knowledgable on the subject.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/



From cjohnson@ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:03 EDT 1996
Article: 34786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!usenet
From: Carl Johnson <cjohnson@ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Smithy mill-drill-lathe combo
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 13:10:06 -0400
Organization: PRI Automation
Lines: 46
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Van Baker wrote:
> 
> Hi, all
> 
> I'm a relative newbie at precision metals, about to start up as a hsm.
> I've been getting the Smithy catalog for some time, and like what I see
> about the 1220XL (realizing the lower convenience of a combo machine,
> but having space and budget limitations).
> 
> Question is, does anyone have good/bad experiences with the equipment/
> service?
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> VanI purchased a Smithy a couple of months ago. I found that the machine was shipped when 
they said it would be, it arrived at the terminal when they said it would be and when I 
got it home I called them for help to disassemble it so I could get it into my basement 
with only two people. And they were helpful like they said they would be.It took about 2 
hours to get the machine moved into my cellar and set up. It may have been easier with 
three people.

I had two problems with the machine when it arrived. The first was that the screw to 
hold the lead screw to the X table was missing. I called Smithy and they shipped one out 
immediatly.(I later found the screw on the basement floor) The second was that the Gibbs 
on the table were loose so I had some chatter. This took only a few minutes to adjust. 
(I later learned that adjusting gibs is done as a matter of preference) 

I experienced a third problem about a month later. The sight glass used to check the oil 
level somehow broke. I could not recall hitting it but thought I may have accidently, so 
I called them for a replacement. When I told them what I needed the representative said 
they had a problem with some of the sight glasses, apologized and sent a replacement 
for free.

I can not speak for the rigidity, or quality of the machine as I am also new to this 
hobby, but I have made some parts and have been happy with the results. It is small, 
quiet (I can run it when the kids go to sleep) and provides the verstility to make all 
the things I want. I definitely recommend the power feed. If you order one go ahead and 
order cutting oil, calipers, drills, and other tools you think you might need, because 
you will need more tooling! Although the machine comes pretty well equipped with tooling 
you will probably need to spend another $200 dollars to do anything useful.

My experience with this company is that they are very friendly, courteous and helpful. 
They seem to stand behind the product completely. I certainly am glad I bought the tool 
and recommend it for others who have limited space.

Although I may sound like I work for Smithy, I dont, I am just very satisfied with the 
company so far. Especially the service.


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:02:04 EDT 1996
Article: 34787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!csulb.edu!csus.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 15 Sep 1996 03:58:34 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 53
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
Message-ID: <51gngq$6is@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <51ffc3$dep@blackice.winternet.com>,
Peter Drumm <pdrumm@dwave.net> wrote:
>
>Some time ago, a couple yrs maybe, I ordered a 8x9x12 angle plate from
>ENCO, along with a few other small items like a dial indicator, a
>wiggler, and I forget what else. At the time, I -needed- the angle
>plate for a job I was in the middle of, the other items were just "cuz
>I wanted 'em". The small items were delivered in a few days, but no
>angle plate. After waiting a few weeks, I wrote them to find out where
>it was, and was told it was not in stock, but to expect it in 2 weeks.
>This went on for months, I wrote them, they wrote me, always the same
>story. Finally, after almost a full YEAR, I sent a letter to cancel
>the angle plate, I never got a reply to this one. About 6 weeks later,
>it shows up at my door, exactly 1 year and 2 weeks after I ordered
>it(the wrong one, I might add, but I didn't complain since it was a
>better model). Of course, the job I needed it for was long gone, I had
>to farm out some of the work, which cost me more than I paid for the
>angle plate.
>
>This was the last order I will -ever- place with ENCO, if I ran my
>business the same way, I'd be out-of-business!
>
>
>pdrumm@dwave.net
>Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
>All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!
>

Pete: This sounds like a carbon copy of my experience (same item,
too). However I suffered insults and vulgar language from their
alledged customer service staff when I politely tried to resolve the
situation. In the end, nine months later, I started getting a bill for
merchandise I had returned (the angle plate was defective). After
ignoring the bill and receiving past-due notices, I called Usiskian
(the c.e.o.) collect and finally got the bill cancelled. Not only will
I never buy from them again, regardless of price, should they be the
sonly source for an item, I will do without. I hope they send me
catalogs for the rest of my life (it's been ten years and they keep
on...) as I enjoy tearing them in half and dropping them in the
dumpster. There is some small solace knowing that I am costing them
money this way.

It seems that the number of unhappy customers here on r.c.m.
outnumbers the happy ones. If this is a reflection of their customer
base as a whole, how to they stay in business?

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:02:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Message-ID: <1996Sep13.154905.24974@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 13 Sep 96 15:49:04 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <3239B8D3.1F30@ix.netcom.com>, Filipovic <filipo@ix.netcom.com> writes:
|>Hi all!
|>I need a non-plastic caliper that has both metric and inch readings. 
|>What is a good (inexpensive) mail order place to buy digital calipers in
|>the US? Where can I request catalogs?


You didn't indicate if you wanted vernier, dial, or digital.  I have
a Mitutoyo digital that can be switched between metric and inch, and am
quite happy with it.  Got it from MSC.  From the FAQ:

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.  The catalog is free.

Jim


From sheba@panix.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:06 EDT 1996
Article: 34789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!panix!news.panix.com!not-for-mail
From: sheba@panix.com (Bathsheba L. Grossman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metal casting
Date: 13 Sep 1996 19:23:31 -0400
Organization: Formerly known as Insect God
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <51cqdj$9ub@panix3.panix.com>
References: <01bb9b1a$7b6fcc80$3ac648c2@linkz.enterprise.net> <50v0sm$454@lanshark.lanminds.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix3.panix.com

In article <50v0sm$454@lanshark.lanminds.com>,
Andrew Werby  <drewid@lanminds.com> wrote:
>"Liz Williams" <linkz@enterprise.net> wrote:
>>we are trying to source casters of white metals, pewter, to manufacture a
>>range of sculpting tools. Please contact on linkz@enterprise.net
>
>[Casters aren't difficult to find, but how are pewter tools going to 
>help sculptors? The stuff is awfully soft...]

If they're wax or clay tools, it might be possible, especially if they're
not for fine detail.

I can report, however, that finding a pewter caster with some imagination
isn't the simplest thing on earth.  I'm looking for one to reproduce small
sculptures, and haven't talked to anyone yet who will quote a part with any
undercuts at all.  Some seem unable to conceive of an object in the round:
their universe starts with buttons and ends with switchplates.

I'd be happy to pay a premium for the extra attention and ingenuity my molds
would require, but so far it looks like I'll have to do it myself.

-Sheba                 http://cgim.pratt.edu/faculty/bathsheba/sheba.htm


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!rutgers!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.ironhorse.com!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 18:21:27 GMT
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In article <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>,
Almus Kenter <kenter@flashman.harvard.edu> wrote:
>	Well I finally did it, disregarding the ``look'' from the wife
>I bought a used Emco Maier Compact-8.

It's usually a lot better if you can convince the spouse that
the expenditure is a good idea, in that it'll keep you off the 
street and out of the local taverns (if, in fact it does).  That
way you can gain her active participation in future purchases.

>                                      Said lathe comes with 3&4 jaw chucks,
>steady rest and turret style tool holder. Seems to be in decent 
>condition. So..if anybody out there in netland is willing to give
>me:
>	advice on needed accessories and sources for such accesories.

Hard to say without knowing what sort of machining you plan.  In
general you'll find that you need some tooling such as HSS bits,
carbide, tool holders, etc., all for general turning.  Some way of
holding a boring bar and the appropriate boring bars will be
necessary.  A 3 jaw chuck for the tailstock will be needed, as well
as lathe dogs and centers, live for the tail and dead for the
spindle.  

I'm not sure what you mean about accessories - you might need change
gears and a thread dial indicator, a toolpost grinder, an indexing
attachment, etc.  Most of that you should put off until a real need
arises.  Much can be made - I've made quite a bit for my little 12x36
Atlas.

>	Tips on setup,use,maintenance etc...

Oil it right, and don't cut yourself.  Keep it clean, wiping the ways
with way oil.  Get the right oils for the spindle bearings and the
ways.  A gallon of each will run $20 total from MSC, and well worth
it.  Get a copy of the operating manual from Blue Ridge Machinery, $15
and likely worth it.

>	  and of course general encouragement

Have fun - get some plastic or aluminum and whack it up.  Throw some 
chips.  Don't do anything serious or critical right away.  Plan on
making about half the tooling you'll want, it's fun.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From gilmore@korrnet.org Fri Sep 27 16:02:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!delmarva.com!udel-eecis!news.udel.edu!cpk-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!utk.edu!clarion.korrnet.org!gilmore
From: Gary L Lawson <gilmore@korrnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 09:00:07 -0400
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On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, MARK CENTER wrote:

> Dupont Imron is the toughest stuff I have ever seen. $50/quart and extremely 
> poisonous.
> 
> I like Rustoleum. You can get it at Walmart $6.00/quart
> Laquer paint is hard to obtain and illegal in California.
> 
Imron is a tough polyurethane coating that is alos brittle.....enamel
based paints are much more flexible than urethanes & cheaper & less
volatile too!> > 



From randd@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs English (Was: Metric system in the USA?)
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 16:54:04 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 60
Message-ID: <323DCC7C.238C@worldnet.att.net>
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To: "Stephen C. Gallagher" <stephen.gallagher@istar.ca>

Stephen C. Gallagher wrote:
> 
> Qkjfioasdn wrote:
> >
> > If possible would you want the US to start using the metric system?  Why
> > or why not?
> >
> > =David Ryder
> >
> > Please send e-mail.
> > Please E-me directly or preferably to:
> >
> > E-me.com@juno.com
> 
> Yes, I would like the US to start using the metric system. I'm an
> American whose been living in Canada for nine months. I've had no
> problem adjusting to using the metric system.  The hardest part
> was getting used to the weatherman give the temperatures in
> degrees celsius.  But I've even gotten used to that.
> 
> There are some valid arguments for not changing in the US.
> The first is cost.  It will be very expensive for the states
> to have to convert every highway sign reference from
> miles to kilometers.  Speed limit signs, highway markers,
> etc would all have to be changed and that's a monumnental
> task.  Some states have plans in place to implement
> metrication of their highway signs.  Alabama has gone so far
> as to replace their existing highway signs with using
> metric distances, however the metric has been overlayed
> with miles.  The benefit of this will be that when metric
> highway signs need to be deployed, all that will be required
> is that they remove the overlay to expose the metric
> distance.
> 
> Stephen Gallagher


To all,

I am an IBEW electrician, and I definitely believe the U.S. must adapt
to the metric system.  Constantly adding fractions in the field leads
to  many mistakes.  Painful as it might be, we have to do it.  Even the
discussion as an option is absurd.  Consider similar discussions 80 or
90 years ago when cities had extensive infrastructure for gas lighting. 
Many thought electric wiring was a mistake...too costly.

Republicans in Congress are currently sponsoring a bill to allow certain
industries exemption from the law requiring conversion.  Such backward
opposition to long term progress in favor of the short term is
threatening to destroy our two hundred year old advantage over other
commercial nations.

I have more faith in America than that, but if they don't get it
together we are in danger of losing our two party system.  Wake up guys
(Republicans)!  Get your head out of the grave and join the twenty first
century.  America can move forward as soon as these old farts get out of
our way.

My opinion only,
Randy


From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!psinntp!psinntp!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-hub.barrnet.net!iserver.spacebbs.com!spacebbs!raymond.frye
Distribution: world
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Upcoming Steamboating Eve
From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (Raymond Frye)
Message-ID: <6.24479.1453@spacebbs.com>
References: <51hbrt$gsv@acme.sb.west.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 12:01:00 -0800
Organization: Space BBS - 15 node PCBoard - FTP/TELNET/GOPHER - (415-323-4193)
Lines: 17

References: <51hbrt$gsv@acme.sb.west.net> 
>  To get there, take hwy 101 to hwy 12 and head East, past the
>  city of Rio Vista and on down the road a piece to the B&W Resort
>  Marina.
---------------------------

Just a note:

   Rio Vista CA is half way between Fairfield(80) and Lodi(99) on 12.

80 then east on 12, I5 west on 12, from Concord 4 east continue
on 160 north to 12, or from Dixon 113 south to 12 east would seem the
prefered routes.

Ray

 * RM 1.3 02229 * Some can read the tops of the chocolates


From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:12 EDT 1996
Article: 34794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!news-2.csn.net!cpollard
From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 21:45:20 GMT
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Chris Kantarjiev (cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com) wrote:

: 	1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
: 	oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
: 	that. :)  

: Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
Sorry that's only true in the US - apint is 20 fl oz in the rest of the
world. And their ton is different too - it's 2240 pound.  So NOW what ARE
you talking about.


From lsanders@neta.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:13 EDT 1996
Article: 34795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!trojan.neta.com!news
From: lsanders@neta.com (Lester Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 00:29:23 GMT
Organization: Internet Access, Chandler Arizona
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Message-ID: <51ku3g$1f1@trojan.neta.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Joseph Dyer <jdyer@ultranet.com> wrote:

>I bought a set of drill blanks at a flea market recently.
>The price was right and had the sizes I use often for locating
>purposes.They are marked "Hutchinson".I was wondering if they were
>still in business,so I might order missing pieces.
>						
>						J.Dyer

Yes, they are still in business.  The company is William T. Hutchinson
Co., 453 Lehigh Avenue, Union NJ  07083.  They have an 800 number:
(800) 544-7934.

                                          Lester



From bobfon@mich.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!aanews.merit.net!news.mich.com!news
From: Bob Foncannon <bobfon@mich.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Parts Help: Wells Bandsaw
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 18:27:26 -0700
Organization: mich.com, Inc. Farmington, MI
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To: Randall Bock <rgb@psu.edu>

Check with Welsaw 616-345-1132


From pullrich@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:02:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!pullrich
From: "P. Ullrich" <pullrich@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing.power,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking
Subject: SPAM (was Re: MAKE $50000 in a month!!! Take 2 minutes to read
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 16:11:47 -0700
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On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Peter Aitken wrote:
> Nitwit! Moron! Idiot! If you do not have the intelligence to figure out
> that these scams cannot work then too bad, but keep this crap off
> newsgroups where it does not belong (i.e., all of them).

When people spam the newsgroup, forward the offending message to the
administrator of the spammer's service, the address will be
postmaster@whereever.com.  For example, if you spammed a newsgroup, I
would forward the message to postmaster@acpub.duke.edu.
This works, they often reply with a short note that they are dealing with
the person.

AND

at least this method doesn't re-expose +++ newsgroups to
posts replying to spam!

Phil



From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news.alt.net!news1.alt.net!news.aa.net!ratty.wolfe.net!josh
From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:32:31 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51k2vf$4ms@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <pdbsf+-1209961346450001@gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu> <51cul1$2a8@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <51cul1$2a8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> jhko@aol.com (Jhko) writes:

>Try Mike Caswell at Caswell Electroplating:
>-----------------
>CASWELL 4336 Route 31, PALMYRA, New York, 14522, USA

>                                       caswell@vivanet.com
>----------------
>I've bought from him via mail, and he seems reliable. Offers some small
>kits (they work!). Also, he'll give you advice over the phone. 


I'll second that -- I use his copper and nickel kits for small
bicycle parts and they work very well with minimal hassle and
(unlike most electroplating solutions I used before) *no*
*cyanide* at all.  

--

 Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From manaret@flash.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:17 EDT 1996
Article: 34799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish -part 2
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 04:06:55 -0500
Organization: Ikonoclast Memetics
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <323BC72F.2174@flash.net>
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Mike Rehmus wrote:

> However, regarding the issues of surface finish (they have a lathe that will make
> aluminum mirrors for their fusion experiments in a single pass), they have quite a bit
> to say.  I'll be starting on a serialization of the information for our local engine
> modeler's club newwletter, The Crank Calls, Real Soon Now.
> 
> Some of the main points they make are:
> 
> 1.  If you have a lot of vibration present, you cannot expect a good surface finish.
> 2.  In single-point cutting, workpiece imbalance will not degrade the surface finish.
> 3.  Diamond cutting tools, because of their sharpness, will cut sub-0.001" passes and
>     not rub the surface of workpiece.
> 4.  Diamond cutting tools will not experience a build-up on their cutting edges that
>     destroy (good) surface finish.
> 5.  Gear train noise in most lathes causes lots of problems in surface finish.
> 

	Sounds reasonable. I used to run what was possibly the first CNC
contact 
lens lathe, and the cutting tool was a single, rather large diamond. The
spindle
turned on air bearings, and was powered by a high-frequency three-phase
convertor,
which wound it up to 20,000 or so RPM. When everything was perfectly
adjusted,
which was an incredibly tedious chore, it produced an amazing finish
which looked
like it didn't even need polishing, though that was just a naked-eye
impression.
The material was not steel, of course, but usually polymethyl
methacrylate - and
sometimes brass, when the machine went crazy and started cutting the
lens mount.
To give some idea of the antiquity of this setup, it was controlled by a
DEC LSI-11
speaking Fortran. Those were the days. Rather unpleasant days, actually,
but it
was a fun machine to work with.

-- 
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
              http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:18 EDT 1996
Article: 34800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 18:47:56 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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Message-ID: <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com


	1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
	oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
	that. :)  

Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."



From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: JET's web site
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 02:30:19 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <323e0d24.9953687@news.value.net>
References: <323D8525.1223@jettools.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227

What is Jets URL?


On Mon, 16 Sep 1996 09:49:41 -0700, Shannon <jet@jettools.com> wrote:

>Just wanted to let you know that JET's metalworking catalog is 
>available to download off our web site (just click on the catalogs 
>icon on the home page). It is divided into two sections: metalworking 
>and metalforming. The metalforming section is very small, but the 
>metalworking section is very large (about 4.5mb), so it may take some 
>time to download. Both sections are in Adobe Acrobat PDF format, and 
>there is a link to Adobe to download the Acrobat Reader from our 
>catalog web page.
>
>Shannon
>JET Equipment & Tools



The Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From janttone@iwn.fi Fri Sep 27 16:02:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!nntp.inet.fi!news.funet.fi!news.cs.hut.fi!news.clinet.fi!usenet
From: janttone@iwn.fi (jari anttonen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HYDRAULICS AMPLIFIER AND THE LIMITS!
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 20:24:52 GMT
Organization: Clinet, Espoo, Finland.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <51cftm$7ln@news.clinet.fi>
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Does anybody know any manufactures, who might have interested
hydraulics amplifier? (LIKE servo?)

We have a product, which crosses all other known products  and
producters.
(Like MOOG,BOSCH,NOBEL and SIG)

As we know, other producters use analogy technology to make control of
motion. But we make the same using digital control. We can move piston
at precision more than 1um and speed more than 1.5 m/s using
acceleration more than 1.5 g! We have tested movements at 10.0 mm at
10 Hz! That  is very HARD!!! Who might promise better performance?

Does anybody know any manufactures who might promise better
performance? AND accuracy?? AND of course the strength!! (>10 tons)

We have made some special application for that devices, but we need
more application region for that devices! 

Your imagination is the LIMIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you have any suggestion, PLEASE contact!!!

PS. We have made rotating devices which rotating area is form 1.0 to
8000 r/min without any gear! Accuracy might be better than 1 r/min!
(We didn't have time  to test it accurately. But it's wery close...)

-------------------------------------
Name:        Jari Anttonen
Email:         janttone@iwn.fi
 Phone:       + 358 17 3634 988 after 12.10.1996
                    + 358 71 3634 988 before 12.10.1996




From MCenter@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MCenter@gnn.com (MARK CENTER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling Cast Iron
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 21:04:45
Organization: GNN
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <51d453$bu9@news-e2c.gnn.com>
References: <3236B9D4.20B8@cyberhighway.net> <51935u$luo@bmdhh222.bnr.ca> <5193cg$m39@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>
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slow down RPM if you usually cut wood
use a carbide tipped masonry drill if you have hard spot problems




From avatar@halcyon.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:23 EDT 1996
Article: 34804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!blv-pm3-ip20.halcyon.com!user
From: avatar@halcyon.com (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chop saws to cut masonary?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 07:24:22 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <avatar-1609960024390001@blv-pm3-ip20.halcyon.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: blv-pm3-ip20.halcyon.com

In article <51fu9a$na0@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>, scannon1@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> I'm thinking of buying a chop saw and I could justify the purchase if
> I could use it occasionally to cut masonary such as brick, tile, or
> terra cotta. Of course I'd use a masonary wheel instead of the metal
> cutting wheel. There's no mention pro or con in the manuals of the
> saws I've considered. Does anybody have any experience or thoughts on
> this matter?
> Thanks.

I'd recommend the Black and Decker Industrial or Makita.
The only thing I don't like about the Makita is the voltage spike when you
pull the trigger. It has a tendency to pop breakers.
Stay away from the cheap imports or anything from Ryobi.
I own a Dewalt, and it is OK, not great.

Best of luck

-- 
*********************************************************************

                            Ernie Leimkuhler

                         STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS

                        Custom Metal Fabrication

         ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488

                        Renton, Washington, USA

*********************************************************************


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!news.sol.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: 14 Sep 1996 02:22:41 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51d4th$28v@test-sun.erols.com>
References: <3237B0CE.63EE@ultranet.com> <51a850$1qg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) wrote:
>I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
>missing?
>
>Mill


If you grind them long ways on
the diagonal, they make good
home made reamers.

Reg Barron



From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:02:25 EDT 1996
Article: 34806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!fu-berlin.de!irz401!news1.urz.tu-dresden.de!news.uni-leipzig.de!news.dfn.de!news.kfa-juelich.de!news
From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:19:03 GMT
Organization: IFF, Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
Lines: 28
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Soluble oil makes a difference! In turning mild steel I get a surface
finish comparable to what I get with sandpaper 1000. This is the same
as the 'roughness' of my (honed) cutter. Without the soluble oil it's
worse.
I use the standard cutting angles for mild steel (clearances 10
degrees, top rake 20 degrees if I remember correctly) but  ground a
small land on the tip. The biggest problem I had was to get rid of the
damage of the turned surface caused by the chips just created. Since I
don't have a flood system for cooling I played around with the side
rake angle and the back clearance angle. Currently I use a side rake
of approximately 3 degrees and a back clearance angle of 20 degrees.
Works fine for me. A chipbreaker edge may do the same. Never tried
that though.

In turning threads I have the topslide parellel to the bed. When I
feed the cross slide in, I feed in the topslide half the amount.
Enables one to perfectly work to depth with the extra advantage that
it's very easy to clean up the flanks (leading and trailing) with
light cuts afterwards. The only problem I experience is that of burrs
on top of the crests. If necessary I file them off between the cuts.
For cutting threads on a lathe I can really recommend the book of
Matrin Cleeve, 'Srewcutting on the lathe' (or something like it)
published as no. 3 of the WPS (Workshop Practice Series) by Argus
books. 100 + pages about screwcutting by a guy who ran a machine shop
himself. I guess, if it isn't in there it's not worth knowing.

Hope this helps, Honoré.



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:02:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!newsreader.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:10:47 GMT
Lines: 30


1 Imperial gallon = 10 Lb @ 15C = 160 fluid ounces = 1.20094 US gallons
1 Imperial Fluid Ounce = 28.4130 CC  
1 Imperial Pint = .56825 liter

1 Ton ( short ) 2,000 pounds
1 long ton      2,240 pounds  ( not used much )



In a previous article, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) says:

>>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com
>
>
>	:Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
>	Sorry that's only true in the US - apint is 20 fl oz in the rest of the
>	world. And their ton is different too - it's 2240 pound.  So NOW what ARE
>	you talking about.
>
>Really? Far out! I thought the "pint's a pound" saying came from the UK.
>So Imperial Quarts are 40 oz instead of 32, and that's where the Imperial
>gallon difference comes from?
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From smega@en.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!newsfeed.direct.ca!op.net!en.com!usenet
From: Ed Smega <smega@en.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Gingery bandsaw
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:10:02 -0700
Organization: Exchange Network Services
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I saw an ad in the Lindsay  catalog for plans for a Gingery Bandsaw.  I 
have seen the complaints about the Enco $200 bandsaw so I am 
contemplating the Gingery as an alternative.  Since my usage would be 
very light, I think I can live with the Enco, the price is certainly 
right but I am curious about the Gingery.  Has anyone built this or 
studied the plans?  As a beginner, I do not have a nice junk pile to 
scavange material from, nor am I aware of any scrap yard where I could 
roam around scavenging, so I would probably end up purchasing all the 
material.  How much would it cost to build the Gingery this way?


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34809 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.nap.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Parts for Van Norman #12
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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I bought a Van Norman #12 Universal mill. Does anyone have any pieces
that they would be interested in selling?

I'm especially interested in a few collets (V5) for it. Also of interest
would be any manuals.

Thanks!

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From SAMY@NETINS.NET Fri Sep 27 16:02:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SAMY@NETINS.NET (ARNIE DEEDS)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Self Darkening Welding Helmet
Date: 16 Sep 1996 02:49:23 GMT
Organization: INS Info Services, Des Moines, IA
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <51if7j$726@insosf1.netins.net>
References: <01bb9c3d$765c01e0$f21157c6@ldouglass> <avatar-0809962148330001@blv-pm10-ip14.halcyon.com>
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In article <avatar-0809962148330001@blv-pm10-ip14.halcyon.com>, 
avatar@halcyon.com says...
>
>In article <01bb9c3d$765c01e0$f21157c6@ldouglass>, "L. E. Douglass 
P.E."
><ldouglass@gatecom.com> wrote:
>
>> Can anyone provide any information/experience/advice on the self 
darkening
>> welding helmets?  Are they any good?  Are they durable?  I see that
>> Northern Hydraulics advertises a couple at what I though was an 
exorbitant
>> price, that is till I checked the local welding supply.       
>> 
>> Does any one have any experience with the Northern Hydraulics units? 
 Are
>> they good, bad, mediocre?  
>> 
>> How about other sources?  This is to be a gift for my future son in 
law.
>> 
>> Thanks ***LEN***
>
>Hornel Speedglass are the best, but also the most costly.
>The simplest ones cost about $170, and the fanciest (like mine) costs
>about $350.
>They are highly adictive.
>I tried a freinds to stitch weld some aluminum planks and bought my own 
2
>weeks later.
>Since then I have gotten 2 of my friends hooked so thay bought them.
>The last shop I worked in had 4 . It was very civilized since nobody 
could
>accidentally flash anybody else.
>They are great.
>
>Best of luck.
>
>-- 
>*********************************************************************
>
>                            Ernie Leimkuhler
>
>                         STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
>
>                        Custom Metal Fabrication
>
>         ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
>
>                        Renton, Washington, USA
>
>*********************************************************************
I own a e.q.c. executive auto darking filter in ajackson helment it is a 
 premium auto darking filter i have found nothing wrong with it.i would 
recomend it to anyone.it sell's for $380 and the helment about $30



From jrkgb@iuakk.fi Fri Sep 27 16:02:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!sbcntrex!news.eecs.umich.edu!newshub.tc.umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!nntp.inet.fi!news.csc.fi!usenet
From: jrkgb@iuakk.fi (Jukka Raulamo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:37:30 GMT
Organization: Me and my Krups -espresso machine
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <51kh8l$2b1@ankka.csc.fi>
References: <519esr$psd@matrix.eden.com>
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Keywords: casts, metall, bronze, books
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In rec.crafts.metalworking, jher@news.eden.com (jher) wrote:

	> Hello, I am interested in trying some casting of bronze,
	> lead, etc. Can anyone recommend a good book to read on 
	> this subject?  Thanks.

	Hi,

	Try one of these:
	* Casting Brass, C.W. Ammen, ISBN 0-8306-1810-4
	  TAB Books Blue Ridge Summit Pa. 17214 or
	* Practical Casting by Tim McCreitght, ISBN 0-9615984-0-9
	  Brynmorgen press Cape Elizabeth, Maine 04107

	The first one has 245 pages and is *very* detailed and,
	IMO, focused pepople for starting casting business.
	Ammen has many other books on metal casting.

	The McCreitght`s book is more basic, but well written 
	and it has good handdrawn pics. It is more for smallscale
	ie. goldsmiths`s casts. 122 pages. I recomend this for
	novice metallcaster.


	Mr. Jukka "the espressoman" Raulamo
	M.Ed., Crafts, Arts and Technology Teacher
	High School in Pornainen, Finland, EUROPE
	personal email: mailto:jrkgb@iuakk.fi
	secondary email: mailto:jrkgb@pcuf.fi

	PAGER: 94800-18348 Free-Caller (leave Your NUMBER)
	(I don`t know, if it works with international calls.)

	Tel. +358-(9)15-6647 773 (HOME, Answer machine, FAX on request)
	FAX. +358-(9)15-6647 374 (work)

        *WARNING*  Unsolicited commercial Email to this account
        warrants a $500 transmital fee, Email constitutes agreement
        to these terms.    






From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:02:31 EDT 1996
Article: 34812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:33:18 GMT
Organization: IFF, Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <51khi2$57i@zam201.zam.kfa-juelich.de>
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Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com> wrote:



>Thanks Walter!  (he said sarcastically)  It was invented by Europeans, dropped off in the new world and 
>abandoned like an orlphan.  Great.


>Dan Bollinger
>Industrial Designer

Well it were also europeans that were dropped of in the new world.
Can't help it that you maintain(ed) the system. We (left over
europeans) got rid of it in time <g>.

Honoré.



From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Softening Air Hardening Steel?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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The air hardening steel I use has a much higher critical temp. than
carbon steel. You need to get the stuff to a nice bright orange (1800F)
for annealing to be effective.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From general@the-net.u-net.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.u-net.com!news
From: "the NET! General User" <general@the-net.u-net.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WIN $3,000 WITH BODYCOTE plc!!
Date: 17 Sep 1996 06:26:44 GMT
Organization: U-NET limited
Lines: 22
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Unlike many competitions you see on various newsgroups, ours is completely
legitimate in that no money is required to enter and it relies on your
intelligence!

Bodycote plc are offering a first prize of $3,000 and the opportunity to
visit Manchester UK in their 1997 Competition.

The essence of it is that if you are a student in full or part time
education at Universities or their equivalent or research establishments in
the UK, USA and Europe, you may submit a paper on any aspect of surface
engineering onto metallic components - excluding paint finishes.

THE PRIZE WINNER WILL DELIVER HIS/HER WINNING PAPER AT THE BODYCOTE
INTERNATIONAL plc ANNUAL DINNER IN MANCHESTER UK WITH ALL TRAVEL AND
SUBSISTENCE EXPENSES BEING REIMBURSED TOGETHER WITH THE $3,000 PRIZE
MONEY!!

Details may be found at:-

http://www.u-net.com/~the-net/bodycote.htm




From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:33 EDT 1996
Article: 34815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welding thin Mild Steel
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 19:58:05 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk (wayne weedon) wrote:

>Anyway to my problem I have enormous difficulty welding thin sheet
>steel, like car bodywork.  Blowing holes though on butt welds very
>easily!  I use an Argon/Co2 mix formalated for this application but
>cannot seem to get the thing to weld properly (Or should i say myself!)
>
>I can run a weld though the middle of the same gauge sheet without
>blowing though, with a small bead appearing on the opposite side of the
>material.
>
>My question is are there any secrets to doing this on these small MIG
>welders?  Or should I invest in a more expensive machine?

Are you currently on your lowest heat setting ? 
When welding in the middle, there is plenty of heat sinking around
that keeps the metal from melting through (and even if the metal
melts, there is material on all sides to support the molten section).
You need to play a bit with you heat and possibly voltage. A lot of
the smaller Mig welders don't have fine controls (some have detented
steps etc). If this is so, you need to play with your timing and sort
of spot weld. DO a small section and let it cool. Do another section
somewhere else to let the first section cool some more and then come
back to it. This is also a good thing to do when you have a fully
adjustable mig.
I presume you have played with the wire that you are running? A fat
wire will always do you in on thin stuff.
I am able to weld 22 ga but even with that I choose to braze a lot of
time 'cause it's easier. It's very difficult not to blow through - you
need lot's of patience and the ability to hold your cool when you do
go through (otherwise the patchup attempt will make things worse).
I myself can not generate a nice bead on 22 ga with 0.023 wire -
things just get too hot.
The other trick I know of (although I haven't really tried it) is to
back the weld area up with something that helps to keep things cool
and also helps to support the molten section. Off hand I would say a
heavy copper bar but that is a guess. I think it also helps if there
is a small depression in the copper where the bead will be run (gives
more substance to the joint.
Even with all that, watch the distortion ... again, doing smaller
sections helps a lot.

Hope this helps - no guarantees though
Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 19:58:10 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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Message-ID: <323e1216.453410433@news.islandnet.com>
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jrkgb@iuakk.fi (Jukka Raulamo) wrote:

>        *WARNING*  Unsolicited commercial Email to this account
>        warrants a $500 transmital fee, Email constitutes agreement
>        to these terms.    

Jukka,
If I was a person that has any commercial Email to send I would be
sure to send it to you. There is someone on the same ISP as me that
has a similar warning. Whenever I seem something as silly as this I
think to myself 'darn, I got to come up with some commercial email and
send it out' .

Jens


From manaret@flash.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 04:22:02 -0500
Organization: Ikonoclast Memetics
Lines: 14
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I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
this?

-- 
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
              http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


From ya156039@alumnet.yorku.ca Fri Sep 27 16:02:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!news
From: ya156039@alumnet.yorku.ca (David Stock)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: query re vernier gauge
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 00:44:22 GMT
Organization: York University, Ontario, Canada
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My friend, who builds scale models of steam engines, has a "DIGITAL
INOX" vernier gauge with an SPC 4 terminal connector and an LCD
display.

He wants a remote display of the digital output.  This would allow him
to better see the display under his shop arrangements.

Can you let me know if his project is possible.  If so, can you give
me any information on circuitry or interfaces that would help?  He
does not use a computer and wants a simple LCD or LED readout.

David Stock
(e-mail to ya156039@alumnet.yorku.ca) 



From cam@bra01.icl.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:02:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!dsbc.icl.co.uk!news
From: "Chris Marlow" <cam@bra01.icl.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline Lathes
Date: 16 Sep 1996 09:17:58 GMT
Organization: ICL
Lines: 31
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Hi Gang, I am new to machining and I am after some advice on the above
machine. Can somebody answer a few questions?

I need a Lathe that is small and most of the work will be turning Alu parts
that are less than 1" Dia.


1) Is there more than 1 model of Sherline Lathe?

2) Can you Mill on it?

3) I may need to turn an Alu part that is about 3" in dia. Can this Lathe
handle this size?

4) In the UK the lathe is priced @ £425 about $600. Is this a good price?

5) Anybody know of suppliers of these machines in the UK apart from
MillHill Supplies?

6) Are these machines real Lathes? Not just toys?

7) Would I be better off buying a Lathe that is much bigger than I need?



Sorry that these questions are so many. Thanks in advance, Chris.

cam@bra01.icl.co.uk


 


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:02:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 15 Sep 1996 22:28:57 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 63
Message-ID: <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu>
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In article <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu>, mill0440@gold.tc.umn.edu (Henry W Miller) says:
>
>Eduardo Haddad Filho (ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br) wrote:
>
>: America used the British system (yard, inch, etc) and most of the world, 
>: after the II World War (I think) decided to go metric.
>
>No reason to change.  Also see my comments below.
>
>: Metric has enormous advantages over the US system, but why should a 
>
>What?  in metric you have to change units all the time, the "english" system
>provides for whatever fraction is convenient.  Metric has only a minor 
>advantage.  Granted if you don't know the system things are weird, and metric
>may be slightly easier to learn, but so what?  It truely doesn't matter what
>system you use.  If it works don't break it is the big reason we haven't 
>switched.

Dal Wagner replies:


I understand your reluctance to change to the metric system. I used to feel 
the same way you did.
I was educated in Canada and when I first went to school everything was done
in the inch system. I too learned with difficulty the manipulations of fractions.
I even remember Russian school teachers visiting our schools to learn teaching 
techniques etc. This was during the time of the cold war period and most Russians
would not normally admit that some of our methods were better. In fact when they 
saw how we were able to do calculations with fractions they were amazed. Children
in Russia did not do fractions untill they were twice the age of ourselves.
Fractions to them were treated as a subject on ratios and proportions they
had nothing to do with measuring lengths or distances.
I didn't realize untill much later that most of the Russian surprise came from
the disbelief that we would use such a "Backward" system to measure distances.

Canada went completely metric about 20 years ago. 

The inch system now is so backward to me that I simply wouldn't go back even though
I am completely at ease with both systems.
You never change units with Metric system. You simply move the  decimal point around.

1 Meter has 1000mm Which is also equal to  100cm. I simply move the decimal point.
1000 Meters = 1 Kilometer

Even weight and volume have a unique relationship with metric. 1 litre of water 
weighs 1 Kilogram.
Quickly tell me how much does one pint of water weigh? 
Tell me how large a container do you need to hold 20 pounds of water?
A 2 year old kid raised with the metric system would have those answers before
you could find a pencil.

Try dialling in 3-21/32 diameter on your lathe cross feed dial. You can't.
unless you know your decimal equivilents or look them up. Even then you don't
have an exact number. You end up with 3.65625

Now try dialling in 75 mm on your lathe cross feed. Instant positioning plus
and exact number to 20 million decimal places if you desire.



Just some thoughts from someone who knows both systems 

Dal Wagner


From toffutt1@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: toffutt1@aol.com (Toffutt1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bricks for forge
Date: 15 Sep 1996 23:09:50 -0400
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opo


From steamer@west.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Upcoming Steamboating Event
Date: 15 Sep 1996 09:45:49 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--In case you haven't heard already, the Great Delta Steamboat 
Meet will be held on the last weekend this month, on the California 
Delta. To get there, take hwy 101 to hwy 12 and head East, past the city 
of Rio Vista and on down the road a piece to the B&W Resort Marina. 
	--If you have a yen to get into steamboats, this is the place to 
learn a thing or two and to maybe pick up a few items you'll need at 
the *very* informal dockside swapmeet. 
	--Rumour has it there will be at least 3 Stanleys on hand this 
year, too.
	BCNU,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	-Hacking the "trailing 	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	edge" of technology...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From prototec@accessone.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: prototec@accessone.com (Glenn C. Storey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Free 10VC  last offer!
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 12:04:19 GMT
Organization: Prototech, Inc.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <51e7p7$1or@kanga.accessone.com>
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 I have a Cincinnati 10VC-1000 that I would like to give away.

  This is full size CNC machining center with an automatic
toolchanger, it weighs 15,000lbs and is not something for someone who
wants a Bridgeport.
  I was going to retrofit the machine but ran out of time.  I removed
the original 1981 vintage control and discarded it, so the machine has
the axis drive packages still with the machine, but no computer to
tell them what to do.

  The machine is in fair/poor condition.  If if was a new Matsuura, it
would not be free.  It is located in Tacoma, Wa.  It cost me $300.00
for the forklift to put it into the building, if someone wants the
machine, they are responsible for the cost of getting it out.

  The machine was in production when the vintage control died and was
holding +/- .003 all day long.  The spindle is CAT-45, and no
toolholders come with the machine.  Those I am selling in an attempt
to recover some of the money I have into the project.

  If you have any interest, please respond soon.   I need the floor
space, and the machine is about two weeks away from becomming $.03 a
pound scrap iron.

				Glenn C. Storey
				Prototech, Inc.



From violette@lightlink.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  (Martin Violette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Date: 14 Sep 1996 13:05:51 GMT
Organization: ART MATRIX - LIGHTLINK
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51eajf$klb@majesty.lightlink.com>
References: <3239B8D3.1F30@ix.netcom.com> <1996Sep13.154905.24974@roper.uwyo.edu>
Reply-To: violette@lightlink.com (Martin Violette)
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In <1996Sep13.154905.24974@roper.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) writes:
>
>In article <3239B8D3.1F30@ix.netcom.com>, Filipovic <filipo@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>|>Hi all!
>|>I need a non-plastic caliper that has both metric and inch readings. 
>|>What is a good (inexpensive) mail order place to buy digital calipers in
>|>the US? Where can I request catalogs?
>
I've had bad luck with Interapid (made in France, sold by Browne & Sharpe)
 - poor battery contacts, short battery life due to no on-off switch, the thumb screw
lock locked the slide an wouldn't release, and finally, now I get 000.00 no
matter where the calipers are... Definitely NOT recommended.  Martin



From arthobby@generation.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pierre <arthobby@generation.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,
Subject: Art & Hobby material
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 08:10:25 -0500
Organization: Generation.NET
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <323AAEC1.59A5@generation.net>
References: <515pib$m6s@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <51bviq$1kv@Raven.und.ac.za>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.glass:3219 rec.crafts.jewelry:14402 rec.crafts.marketplace:9189 rec.crafts.metalworking:34825 rec.crafts.misc:23880 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:8666 rec.crafts.pottery:2643 rec.crafts.quilting:42 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4896 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:81784 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:28426 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:21813

http://blizz.qc.ca/arthobby/

A cette adresse vous trouverez une liste de materiel d'artiste et d'artisanat
disponibles a la boutique Art & Hobby

At this adresse you will find a listing of art material and craft suply offered by Art &
Hobby store .


From clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu Fri Sep 27 16:02:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu (Charles L. Rowe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Damage Revisited
Date: 16 Sep 1996 11:11:49 -0400
Organization: Rutgers University
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <51jqnl$rja@andromeda.rutgers.edu>
References: <8C7B515.02290052CC.uuout@corpsoft.com> <demers_bob-1109960900390001@ronin.htc.honeywell.com> <517l5q$ao1@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <51c8gu$2s4@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: andromeda.rutgers.edu

jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

>Dave Ficken (mermac@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
><snip>
>: that Southbend did a pretty mediocre packaging job. Six quarts of paint
>: were put in the same box seperated by only some styrofoam "peanuts". It
--snip!--
>We are pretty serious (and aware of Gov't. regulations) on haz-mat
>shipment and handling here at the Chemistry department.  Sounds like
>the broke the law at South Bend!

>				Jon


   I had a potentially dangerous packing situation with my last order
   from Brownell's.  It's the first time in 15-20 years that they did a 
   crappy job in packing my orders. I had two 1-gallon cans of parts
   washer solvent ( flammable, sorta-smelly, don't want to gargle with,
   liquid stuff) in a box with the rest of my order, just some paper
   keeping things apart.  Lucky the only damage was a hard plastic
   box 1 part was packed in didn't survive; the 1 gal cans were dented
   a bit, I'm not sure the plastic bags they were wrapped in would do
   any good what with the sharp shards from the plastic box scraping
   against them. 

    I didn't think of it at the time, but there was no haz-mat sticker
   on the box....

    I've noticed that despite the stringent regulations, and the
    lawsuit-happy world we live in, thoughtless shipping practices seem
    to be on the increase.

		my opinions! all mine!			Charlie 



From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:02:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:12:44 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 20
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In-Reply-To: <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> 

Actually, when I was in Great Britain a few years ago, I noticed that
a Pint generally was a Pound.  Then the last time I was there it had
gone up to a pound 30 or even in some pubs a pound 80!

John


On 16 Sep 1996, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

> 
> 	:Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
> 	Sorry that's only true in the US - apint is 20 fl oz in the rest of the
> 	world. And their ton is different too - it's 2240 pound.  So NOW what ARE
> 	you talking about.
> 
> Really? Far out! I thought the "pint's a pound" saying came from the UK.
> So Imperial Quarts are 40 oz instead of 32, and that's where the Imperial
> gallon difference comes from?
> 
> 


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:47:57 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 16
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At the San Jose store, when I go in with one of my lists, they first check
to see what's in local stock, and if not there, if they have it elsewhere.
If they do, they give me the option of getting it on backorder.  For
some small stuff, they sent it to the store, but for other times, they'd
ship it to me, free of charge.

OTOH, I had a long set of problems with getting billed for a small item
that I had previously prepaid.  Evidently, Chicago processes the bills,
but San Jose sends them in.  Most of the people there are pretty
competent, but one or two in the office have difficulty walking and
chewing gum simultaneously.  I suspect one of them (mis)handled the 
bill.

Pete Brooks




From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Query: Shoptask experiences?
Date: 14 Sep 1996 21:02:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <51a90f$fn1@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>, skod@trenco.Eng.Sun.COM
(Scott Griffith, Sun Lumpyware) writes:

>I'd like to hear from anyone who has some experiences, either pro or
>con, with the current Shoptask combination lathe/mill/drill machines.
>I'd especially like to hear from anyone who can compare and contrast
>them to the Emco, Smithy, and other smallish combo machines.
>
>I'm tired of going bankrupt paying local shops agonizing hourly rates
>to crank out trivial chassis and braking system parts for my race car
>(which has a voracious appetitie for 'em, it seems). The best thing I
>can see about the Shoptask is that it has a decent swing for a smaller
>machine. I routinely need to work on brake system components, so a
>lathe that can swing up to 10" or so is a must- but I don't have much
>room for a 6 foot bed, so the compact size is another must.  Thus- the
>Shoptask is the head of the short list. If there are other machines I
>should consider, please let me know!
>
>Please respond via email to skod@sun.com, and I'll summarize in a few
>day's time. 
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>-skod
>-

  I bought a shoptask for the same reasons that you mentioned.
My thought is that it will not do what you are wanting to do.
When I bought mine I planned on turning a few brake drums to help pay for
it.
However I found that it turned to fast to do any but the smallest ones.
Then when I modified it to turn slower it turned out that it just was not
heavy enough to do the larger ones.

 While I think that for the most part you get what you pay for there are
several features that I think should be there that are not.
My main gripes are. 

1. No split nut to release the carriage. (Hence you must turn the handle
10 time for 1 inch of movement. SLOW)

2. Reversing the carriage feed direction is a major undertaking. (You must
remove the carrier plate for the reversing gear and add or remove a gear
>from  it)

3. No compound slide  (You must turn the whole table which be rather large
can be impossible to do if you need very much angle)

4. No way to move the mill head up and down.(Often the head is to far away
>from  the table all cures cause loss of rigidity.) 

5. The belts used to drive the lathe are to small.(They often slip on
large diameter work.)

  While the above may make it seem like it is not a good lathe, I think it
is worth what you pay for it as long as you don't try to turn anything
more than 6-8 inches in diameter. In other words just because it can swing
15 inches does not mean that you can turn it. Many of the problems above
can be cured if you have time and sometimes access  to other equipment.
You can probably modify a Smithy compound with a raise block and use it. I
think I could modify the feed reversing and make it easier to use. And
I've modified it to run slower with no slip but at a price.
I use a motorcycle transmission and a chain final drive. However it adds a
certain amount of vibration so does not cut as smooth as I would like. The
half nut is doable but will get very complicated to be done right.


   I have seen pictures of a Smithy lathe that covers many of my
complaints above it is there longer mill-drill (I don't remember the model
number).

                                     Hope this helps
                                          LWC

  


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:50 EDT 1996
Article: 34830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Green Wheel Grinders
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 16:36:43 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <felice.213.32398D9B@pioneer.net>
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In article <51budm$nsd@mrnews.mro.dec.com> Steve Wellcome 
<wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:>Another caution: if you sharpen HSS on 
the diamond wheel,>use water.  Carbon dissolves into steel at high 
temperatures,>and guess what a diamond is made of?  And the local 
>temperature right at the point of grinding can get plenty
>hot enough to dissolve the diamond into the steel.  So
>use water.

I can't comment on the idea that diamond dissolves into steel, although
I think that may not be true. The reason I use water/coolant on my diamond 
wheels is that I've heard carbide dust is toxic, as is stone dust which I 
grind frequently. Also, the bond can contain nickel which becomes dust if it
is rubbed off, also carcinogenic. The heat of grinding dry (except on a dry 
wheel) can cause electroplated backings to separate from the wheel, and loosen
their hold on the diamonds. This does not apply to resinoid or sintered wheels 
though. just my 2 cents. 


From albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at Fri Sep 27 16:02:52 EDT 1996
Article: 34831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Albrecht Kadlec <albrecht@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Body Solder???
Date: 13 Sep 1996 19:32:50 +0200
Organization: TU Wien
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <tiiv9ib9rx.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at>
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

> doesn't seem to work as well here.  I have also used 95/5 solder (95% tin,
> 5% Antimony), sold for water pipes, and it works well, too.  It is probably

antimony is poisonous. I hope your' not using it for your drinking
water supply.
our water supply soldering is done using lead and antimon free solder
(Sn Ag Cu)

albrecht
 


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:02:53 EDT 1996
Article: 34832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: WIN $3,000 WITH BODYCOTE plc!!
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <Dxwt56.AGI@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
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References: <51mr1o$nh4@cherry.news.easynet.net> <01bba460$cd7a9880$43a577c2@dcsat.u-net.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 03:46:18 GMT
Lines: 31


The prize came through at three thousand dollars.  If it takes 2,000 
hours to prepare a paper, that's only one dollar and fifty cents an hour!
If that is in Canadian dollars, it would be 71 pence/hour!



In a previous article, Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy) says:

>"the NET! General User" <general@the-net.u-net.com> wrote:
>
>>Unlike many competitions you see on various newsgroups, ours is completely
>>legitimate in that no money is required to enter and it relies on your
>>intelligence!
>
>>Bodycote plc are offering a first prize of $3,000 and the opportunity to
>>visit Manchester UK in their 1997 Competition.
>
>Hey mister, I live within a few miles of Manchester. What's second
>prize - 2 visits?
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline vs. Drill Mill cutting question...
Date: 14 Sep 1996 19:09:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Dear Fellow Metal Heads:

OK, here's my question. If I can cut, say .010" per pass with a 3/8" end
mill in Aluminium with my Sherline Mill, roughly how deep a cut could I
take with a small drill mill (you know, the smaller 440lb ones with the
20.5x6" tables) before it starts to chatter? 

Now hold on, I know everyone will say "don't buy a drill-mill, buy a used
Bridgeport or at least a larger knee mill", but I only have a 3 foot by 3
foot space in my small garage workshop, and I just don't think I can fit a
larger mill in there. I know I can fit larger work on a drill mill than on
my Sherline. How much stiffer are they (again, compared to a Sherline, not
a Bridgeport)? 

Thanks in advance for your help, oh metal gurus...

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Self Darkening Welding Helmet
Message-ID: <1996Sep15.122935.952@flying-disk.com>
Date: 15 Sep 96 12:29:35 PDT
References: <01bb9c3d$765c01e0$f21157c6@ldouglass> <avatar-0809962148330001@blv-pm10-ip14.halcyon.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 21

> In article <01bb9c3d$765c01e0$f21157c6@ldouglass>, "L. E. Douglass P.E."
> <ldouglass@gatecom.com> wrote:
> 
>> Can anyone provide any information/experience/advice on the self darkening
>> welding helmets?  Are they any good?  Are they durable?  I see that
>> Northern Hydraulics advertises a couple at what I though was an exorbitant
>> price, that is till I checked the local welding supply.	

I own a high-end Huntsman unit and I absolutely love it!
I can't remember the model number, but it features:

     Large window
     Variable sensitivity
     Variable density

I wish that I had bought it when I took my first welding class.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:02:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: cnc plasma or oxy-acet. burner
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 11:05:16 -0700
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I am seeking a small cnc or light beam controlled plasma or oxy-acet 
burner to assist in cutting of small intricate shapes in primarily 10 
ga. matl. If you have something available please E-mail info. Thanks


From paitken@acpub.duke.edu Fri Sep 27 16:02:56 EDT 1996
Article: 34836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Peter Aitken <paitken@acpub.duke.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing.power,rec.climbing,rec.collecting,rec.collecting.cards.discuss,rec.collecting.cards.non-sports,rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking
Subject: Re: MAKE $50000 in a month!!! Take 2 minutes to read
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 17:29:44 -0400
Organization: Duke University
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To: MANTAUR <kc891842@merlin.si.uqam.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.boats.racing.power:2063 rec.climbing:96354 rec.collecting:107021 rec.collecting.cards.discuss:15164 rec.collecting.cards.non-sports:54114 rec.collecting.coins:33952 rec.collecting.dolls:23105 rec.collecting.phonecards:7087 rec.collecting.postal-history:1660 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:150804 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:93492 rec.collecting.sport.football:115545 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:81814 rec.collecting.sport.misc:11030 rec.collecting.stamps:35625 rec.collecting.villages:4210 rec.crafts.beads:9376 rec.crafts.brewing:101428 rec.crafts.dollhouses:2347 rec.crafts.glass:3225 rec.crafts.jewelry:14409 rec.crafts.marketplace:9194 rec.crafts.metalworking:34836 rec.crafts.misc:23894 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:8681 rec.crafts.pottery:2645 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:1531 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4900 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:81832 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:28446 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:21821 rec.crafts.textiles.yarn:13096 rec.crafts.winemaking:13170

MANTAUR wrote:
> 
> Take five minutes to read this and it WILL change your life.
> 
>  I just read an article in an internet newsgroup describing how
>  to make $50,000.00 in only one month from a $5.00 investment.
> etc etc more horse hockey.

Nitwit! Moron! Idiot! If you do not have the intelligence to figure out 
that these scams cannot work then too bad, but keep this crap off 
newsgroups where it does not belong (i.e., all of them).


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:02:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Date: 18 Sep 1996 00:03:23 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <51ne8b$ap9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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Regardless of the Enco and Mitutoyo threads, I've had good luck with the Mit 12"
digital caliper that I got from the local Enco store.  It's a 1-button job to
switch between metric and english, and it can be done on the fly.  Cost was
about $120 or so, if my memory is correct.

Pete Brooks



From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:02:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Turner Question
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:20:57 +0100
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Fax No is:

?-44-1481-47912
-- 
Charles


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:02:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:35:43 +0100
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With a reasonably small machine like this, disconnect the feedscrews,
clean and lubricate the slides, and then adjust them so that you can
move them smoothly with two hands.

If you want to use the cross-slide as a boring table you need a method
of locking the slides.  If the lathe is not equiped with clamp screws,
as well as the normal gib adjustment screws, you should fit some
yourself. 
-- 
Charles


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:03:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:23:54 +0100
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Pat Kelley writes
>I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
>surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
>surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
>commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
>magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
>cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
>this?
>
Weight?
-- 
Charles


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 11:53:51 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <09960816065209.OUI99.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <Dxr76x.580@uicc.com>, From neidorff@uicc.com (Bob 
Neidorff), the following was written:
> I have a Logan 11" lathe.  My most recent project was to put

   <<snip>>

> I took that as a recommendation to tighten the back gibs.
> When I did this a little bit, it stopped wiggling there, but
> now the carriage moves much stiffer.  It is so stiff that the
> friction clutch for the cross feed has a hard time moving it
> even without tool contact!  I can adjust the clutch to work,
> but it is quite tight.  Too tight? How tight is right?  It
> has to be tight to make a good cut, right?  I would like to
> have the best accuracy that I can for normal spindle turning.
> I only tightened those two screws a smidgen, perhaps 1/16 turn.

Something doesn't sound right here.  I've seen Logan 10" Lathes take a
1" deep cut (turning) in steel, admittedly a very light feed, but this
is how they used to show them off at machine tool shows.

You say "those two screws"; on the cross slide, there should be 4
screws, and on the compound, 3 screws.  Also, do you have cone point
screws? If you are using standard cup point, they will tend to hit the
gib at the top, and cock the gib. Cone points will hit in the middle. 
Let's see if I can diagram this:

Gib //____ 
   //<____  Proper cone point set screw
  //

Gib //____ 
   //>____  Incorrect cup point set screw
  //

Hope this helps, let me know if I can help any more.
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/16/96 06:53
 http://www.loganact.com




From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:03:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB used Emco Compact 8 accessories
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 18:54:46 GMT
Organization: IFF, Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
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kenter@flashman.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter) wrote:


>Does anybody else make accessories for this lathe? (eg chucks)
>The lathe mounting is via a DIN standard (DIN 55021)

>			---almus
Chucks can be had from any european/asian manufacturer I believe (and
they always are expensive :-( ). You could also consider using one of
the readily available chucks by making a 'backplate' with on the
backside the tapered DIN seating. I think I've still got the
dimensions of the DIN taper lying around. If you need them mail me.
Best, Honoré.



From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:03:02 EDT 1996
Article: 34843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB used Emco Compact 8 accessories
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:06:02 GMT
Organization: IFF, Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51mt9b$arg@zam201.zam.kfa-juelich.de>
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kenter@flashman.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter) wrote:

>Does anybody else make accessories for this lathe? (eg chucks)
>The lathe mounting is via a DIN standard (DIN 55021)

>			---almus

Just something that sprang to my mind: there are taiwanese and chinese
copies of the Compact 8 on the market. Some are real carbon copies, so
most parts and accessories should fit.  Maybe that would be a way to
get accessories Emco hasn't. Don't expect Emco quality however!
Regards, Honoré.



From rborden@coastnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:03 EDT 1996
Article: 34844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 18 Sep 1996 01:52:30 GMT
Organization: t.rex
Lines: 32
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In article <09960817063056.OUI19.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com says...
>
>In article <51l4ic$iac@news.pinc.com>, From rborden@coastnet.com (Ross 
>Borden), the following was written:
>> I've got a ridiculous problem that maybe someone can help me with.  I 
>> called Grizzly Imports to request a catalog but when I they found out 
>> I live in Canada, they refused to send me one.
>
>Sounds like you should talk to the distributor you say has the machines
>in Canada.  After spending many years shipping parts and machinery to
>Canada, and the headaches involved, I can't blame them.  NAFTA is a
>joke.  The idea was great, but the implementation is something else
>again.
>

I only wanted them to send me a *catalog* which wouldn't involve any 
hassle whatsoever.  As for shipping the actual tools, I would pick up at 
the warehouse myself, as I already import from several companies in 
Washington.  Dragging one more item through the border is no big deal.

As for buying their tools here in Canada, the mark-up is ridiculous.  For 
example, Grizzly's G4000 9"x19" lathe is $795 US in the back of HSM.  
That's retail.  Busy Bee Tools sells that lathe for $1799 CAN.  Even 
alowing 50% for exchange and duty (they're Asian made, NAFTA doesn't 
apply), that's only $1200 CAN.  And presumably Busy Bee is buying 
wholesale, so they must be making a whopping profit.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
  Help support genetic diversity;          |    rborden@coastnet.com
  Irradiate your kids.                     |        Ross Borden
-----------------------------------------------------------------------



From rborden@coastnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:04 EDT 1996
Article: 34845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 18 Sep 1996 02:02:23 GMT
Organization: t.rex
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In article <DxvKw0.Ln0@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>, 
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA says...
>
>
>Yes, you can walk into their showroom in Bellingham, and they will give 
>you a catalogue.  Some of their stuff is sold by Busy Bee in Canada.
>
>The address is :  1821 Valencia St.,
>                  Bellingham, Wa. 98226
>
>Take exit 254 from the I 5, go east & turn right on Valencia.
>                   

Thanks for the info.  I'll be through there in a couple of weeks on a 
buying trip and I'll check them out.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
  Help support genetic diversity;          |    rborden@coastnet.com
  Irradiate your kids.                     |        Ross Borden
-----------------------------------------------------------------------



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:03:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 15 Sep 1996 03:46:11 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 38
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
Message-ID: <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> <09960813130456.OUI34.SLogan@gnn.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu


Gentlemen, gentlemen! What is all this fuss about measurement? Such
trivia makes life so much more complicated. Since I subscribed to the
TLAR method, I've had no sleepless nights trying to convert bleats
to milliburps or back. The TLAR method (That Looks About Right) not
only saves time, but materials, too, as one no longer suffers holes
worn through the trousers from rulers or tapes poking out. 

If I need a piece of hose, I simply hold my arms out and check the
length. At the hardware store, I hold my arms out again, and the clerk
puls out the required length. He can figure the price... that's his
job! Visits to the lumbaryard are similarly easy. All lumber comes in
standard sizes, so it is easy to select a piece that will fit. Cutting
to length is done by holding the board up to its location, marking
with a pencil and making the cut. To turn a shaft to fit a hole: Put
shaft in lathe. Turn it. Try it in the hole. If too big, file it down,
or use emery paper or a hammer. That's what they're made for!  If it's
too small, use Epoxy. 

There are no measurement units in this system, because, as you can
see, measurement is not necessary and there are no units of any kind.
However terms such as "whisker" "skosch" and "bissel" are used when
doing precision work.

The TLAR method is the foundation of eyeball engineering.




(Just in case there is someone out there who can't see me grinning as
I type this, read it into a tape recorder and play it backwards.)
___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:03:06 EDT 1996
Article: 34847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gaudio@euler.Berkeley.EDU (Stephen Gaudio)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Date: 18 Sep 1996 03:38:12 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51nqr4$kl2@agate.berkeley.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: euler.berkeley.edu

In article <51eajf$klb@majesty.lightlink.com>,
Martin Violette <violette@lightlink.com> wrote:
>In <1996Sep13.154905.24974@roper.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) writes:
>>
>I've had bad luck with Interapid (made in France, sold by Browne & Sharpe)
> - poor battery contacts, short battery life due to no on-off switch, the thumb screw
>lock locked the slide an wouldn't release, and finally, now I get 000.00 no
>matter where the calipers are... Definitely NOT recommended.  Martin
>


on mine, the inside jaws fell off. hello?!



steve







From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:07 EDT 1996
Article: 34848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 21:03:21 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <09960817160143.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> <51n16i$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
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X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

In article <51n16i$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>, From barts@Eng.Sun.COM 
(Bart Smaalders), the following was written:
> Are you using a steady rest?  The cause of chatter on long workpieces 
> is often flex in the workpiece itself... and a steady rest that 
> travels w/ the carriage is a good solution in this case.

A Steady Rest which travels with the carriage is called a Follow(er)
Rest.  A Steady (or Center) Rest is clamped to the bedways in a fixed
position.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/17/96 16:02
 http://www.loganact.com




From alshinn@sirius.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:41:30 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <alshinn-1709962241300001@ppp111-sf2.sirius.com>
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> wrote:

> I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
> surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
> surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
> commonplace as a crowbar out of it?

 snip

I would guess that they are quite light, which is nice.I have an aluminum
(mostly) pipe wrench and though it sounds silly, I *really* like it cause
it is so light.

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From paris@mcs.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paris@mcs.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 11:35:37 GMT
Organization: MCSNet Services
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <51m2e9$80n@Nntp1.mcs.net>
References: <51423s$mmk@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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>   Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>  I think it's officially called the "Imperial" system.

NIST (The folks in charge of weights and measures in the US) call feet, gallons (US), and so on: 
"US customary units".


From khays@sequent.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: khays@sequent.com (Kirk Hays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 17 Sep 1996 23:25:24 GMT
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51nc14$l4p@scel.sequent.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: eng1.sequent.com

In article <51me0e$c66@fcnews.fc.hp.com>,
Roger Mitchell <rogerm@fc.hp.com> wrote:
|Three qualities of titanium that may make it desirable to make a crowbar from
|would be it's light weight, strength and the ability to use it in explosive
|environments where a spark caused by striking a steel one could cause a
|disaster.

Where do we find these amazing surplus titanium crowbars?

Kirk Hays
[I don't speak for Sequent.]




From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CEBORA  POCKET MIG WELDER PARTS SOURCE
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:51:01 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <323EC8E5.6843@worldnet.att.net>
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To: sford@nettally.com

Stephen L. Ford wrote:
> 
> I have a Cebora mig welder, called a pocket mig item 883/p made in
> Bologlia Italy, in which I am in need of a new feeder tube and maybe a
> drive wheel.  Could anybody give me some help on finding a supplier.
> Please answer on my e-mail
> 
> sford@nettally.com
> 
> thanks:  Stephen

Don't quote me on this,but I believe that Cebora also makes Daytona Mig,
I have a Cebora also and everything looks suspiciously like a daytona
I bought mine from A.R.S tools in Cal.don't know ik their stiil in 
business or not.

A.R.S. Tools
P.O.Box 1902
Glendora CA 91740
1-800-543-5162
1-800-458-8665

Other wise see if you can get friendly with a Daytona dealer

Hope this helps
Tom


From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:12 EDT 1996
Article: 34853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 06:29:19 -0700
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"John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:


>I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
>junk car and going from there.

I would like to also know if this will work ... I was thinking along
the same lines except I was going to spend the $18 (Canadian) for a
set of new trailer bearings. I am a little concerned as to how
accurate these bearings are or if there will be all kinds of runout
making the whole thing useless.

Jens


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:13 EDT 1996
Article: 34854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 04:43:17 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Mine is much less than 0.004" runout.  I'd guess you can rebuild a Jacobs spindle 
chuck just like you can any of their chucks.  Might just be worn out.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From rborden@coastnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!news
From: rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 17 Sep 1996 03:05:48 GMT
Organization: t.rex
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I've got a ridiculous problem that maybe someone can help me with.  I 
called Grizzly Imports to request a catalog but when I they found out I 
live in Canada, they refused to send me one.
  "We don't ship anything into Canada, including catalogs," the 
receptionist said.
  "Why not?" I asked.
  "Because it is our policy."
  "But what is the reason for the policy?"
  "The reason for our policy is that it is our policy."
  I am not making this up.
  I went around in circles with this woman several times, but could not 
get her to send me a catalog, or even explain why not.  The long distance 
charges were eating me alive, so I gave in and hung up.
  I have seen some of their machines for sale in retail shops here (at 
50% mark-up), so perhaps they have some kind of exclusive distribution 
arrangement.
  In their ads in the back of HSM, they list a PO Box in Bellingham as 
their western address.  Does anyone know the street address, and if so, is 
it possible to stop in and get a catalog there?  I pass through Bellingham 
several times a year on business, so it wouldn't be too difficult, 
providing they allow walk-in traffic (and they don't find out I'm a 
Canadian.)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
  Help support genetic diversity;          |    rborden@coastnet.com
  Irradiate your kids.                     |        Ross Borden
-----------------------------------------------------------------------



From davidsmith@chesco.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Smith <davidsmith@chesco.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP!!! need welding advice
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 13:07:51 +0000
Organization: Cybernetics Design
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Get in touch with Lincon welding Co. - they have all kinds good 
equipment and good answers.
-- 
 David  Smith    davidsmith@chesco.com     ³Unique solutions to 
unusual problems² 
Technical information reports  Cybernetics Design, 12 Ashley Court, 
Downingtown, Pa.  19335
Legal Notice: ALL UNSOLICITED COMMERICAL E-MAIL gets a $5 read and 
file charge.


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:03:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Date: 15 Sep 1996 03:15:27 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 32
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
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In article <3239B8D3.1F30@ix.netcom.com>,
Filipovic  <filipo@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Hi all!
>I need a non-plastic caliper that has both metric and inch readings. 
>What is a good (inexpensive) mail order place to buy digital calipers in
>the US? Where can I request catalogs?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Omar Filipovic


I posted a similar query about two years ago here. The votes sere
split between several brands but Mitutoyo came in slightly ahead. I
bought one from MSC and have been satisfied, recent threads against
Mit. notwithstanding. I like the Mit. because of the large readout and
the fact that it does not turn off by itself. I don't want to have to
turn it on every time I want to refer to a reading I made 15 minutes
ago.

And good and inexpensive don't necessarily go together when selecting
a mail-order dealer. I've learned my lesson the hard way and now shop
exclusively at MSC. The extra few dollars is made up twice over in
top-flight customer service. Not even LL Bean can touch them on this.

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From rkiesl@cruzio.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:18 EDT 1996
Article: 34858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news1.best.com!noos.hooked.net!news.scruz.net!cruzio.com!news
From: Roy Kiesling <rkiesl@cruzio.com>
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Cc: Roy Kiesling <rkiesl@cruzio.com>
Organization: Cruzio Community Networking System, Santa Cruz, CA
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 05:39:08 GMT
Message-ID: <323F8AFC.4D2A@cruzio.com>
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Steve Jasik wrote:
> 
>
> Get them quick, (accessories, etc)

And not just because the manufacturer may be going out of business. 

One of the best decisions of my life was, when I bought my lathe, to 
spend hours with the catalog and buy every small accessory that I 
thought I might ever conceivably use (OK, no taper attachment, and 
haven't missed it). 

That was thirty-five years ago, and I couldn't possibly remember how 
much they all cost, but it was nothing compared to the convenience of 
finding that I had what I needed for a job that just got going late on a 
Saturday night. If you err on the side of having the thing you're not 
likely to go wrong...

Enjoy!


From jsanders@jove.acs.unt.edu Fri Sep 27 16:03:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jsanders@jove.acs.unt.edu (Justin M Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 00:57:22 GMT
Organization: University of South Alabama
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca>
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dal wagner (dalw@direct.ca) wrote:
> Even weight and volume have a unique relationship with metric. 1 litre
> of water weighs 1 Kilogram.
> Quickly tell me how much does one pint of water weigh? 
> Tell me how large a container do you need to hold 20 pounds of water?
> A 2 year old kid raised with the metric system would have those answers
> before you could find a pencil.

There is a similar relationship with the U.S. fluid volumes and weights.

1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
that. :)  

[Note: this relationship, though close, is not exact-- a fluid oz of
water is really heavier by about 4% than an avoirdupois oz.]

> Try dialling in 3-21/32 diameter on your lathe cross feed dial. You
> can't.  unless you know your decimal equivilents or look them up. Even
> then you don't have an exact number. You end up with 3.65625

> Now try dialling in 75 mm on your lathe cross feed. Instant positioning 
> plus and exact number to 20 million decimal places if you desire.

But, if your lathe is only accurate to 0.0005 (inches) anyway, then all
those additional decimal places are meaningless.  Even if the cross feed
dial was scaled in 32nds, so that we could put it on the exact number of
32nds, it wouldn't really matter-- It might give us a warm and cozy
feeling to line those marks up, but I wouldn't bet the house that it would
be 3.65625000000000 (20 million zeroes deleted) despite the fact that it
is "exact".  Same thing with a metric machine. 

Now, let's take our 1 inch and our 1 cm and lay them out on our machines
in 3 equal parts.  Neither fraction (neither 1/3 in nor 1/3 cm) is going
to terminate, so both of us will have to round to the nearest fraction
that our machine can measure or to the nearest fraction within our
tolerance.  No matter what system one uses, there will frequently be times
when one will have to lay out a fraction that doesn't have a terminating
(or short) decimal equivalent, and everyone will have to round in that
situation.

The convenience of metric tools, bolts, etc. is that they have been chosen
to work well with decimal fractions.  The English system is has more
situations where long decimal fractions will appear, but once you know
where to round, it really doesn't matter. 

--
Justin M. Sanders           "I shot an arrow into the air.  It fell 
Dept. of Physics               to earth I know not where." --Henry
Univ. of South Alabama           Wadsworth Longfellow confessing
jsanders@jaguar1.usouthal.edu     to a sad ignorance of ballistics.


From jet@jettools.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: Shannon <jet@jettools.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: JET's web site
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 11:22:07 -0700
Organization: JET Equipment & Tools
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <323D9ACF.1B15@jettools.com>
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It's Shannon again. I forgot to put the URL for JET's web site in my 
previous post. Sorry for any inconvenience! The address is 
http://www.jettools.com


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:20 EDT 1996
Article: 34861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:46:55 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <09960816124544.OUI49.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com. <DxtMy0.83A@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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In article <DxtMy0.83A@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>, From 
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner), the following was written:
> The 
> celsius degree is too large for a comfort scale at 17.22222- F.

Check your math (or your calculator), Steve.  A change of one degree
centigrade is 1.8 degrees farenheit.  OTOH, +1 degree centigrade is
+33.8 degrees farenheit.

 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/16/96 12:46
 http://www.loganact.com




From steve.deren@sympatico.ca Fri Sep 27 16:03:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Deren <steve.deren@sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Modulus of Elasticity
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 19:56:45 -0700
Organization: Personal
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> > >I have a question for the combined wisdom of the whole group. Maybe
> > >someone could explain this to me ....
> > >Deflection on a piece of metal is calculated using the modulus of
> > >elasticity. Apparently this is more or less constant for most steels
> > >etc. How come that things like lathe tool holders are hardened if it
> > >doesn't make a difference in rigidity.
> >
> > I think that tool holders (like the one I recenly bought from enco
> > for my quick change holder) are at least surface (case) hardened
> > and sometimes fully heat treated (through hardened) because
> > these objects have other, harder objects (like HSS lathe tools)
> > clamped into them - and would, over time, begin to be marked up
> > and distorted (locally) by the clamped tool if they were not at
> > least surface hard themselves.
> >  I have also recently been entrigued by this one, and have a question along the same
> lines to ask, why do people spend big dollars for solid carbide boring bars, if there is
> no benefit. But there is, isn't there its rigidity and my gut tells me that rigidity is
> related to hardness.  Is the curve steeper for a hardened material or is it the same as
> for a normalized material before yield.. I am a bit confused , when I see machinery that
> deflects under load, my first thought is can't we reduce the deflection this by heat
> treating it..
>                         Any info on this one would help me immensely...
>                                 Thanks
>                                 Steve Deren.


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:23 EDT 1996
Article: 34863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Peter Nolan' Product Review, HSM 9/96
Date: 17 Sep 1996 12:01:36 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 83
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Funny, my Logan lathe (model 920) uses a pin to locate
the cross-slide gib so that it doesn't bind. I'd figured
that this was "stock". The cross-slide is original but
I am certainly not the first owner. This is also what
Connelly recommends -- locking the gib to the member with
a pin. Matter of fact, while making my Metal Lathe Access.
T-slot cross-slide, I used the same technique. Works real
well.

Those 1/4 28 pointed pins are really nice! Didn't know you
still sold them.. figured I'd have to make them. I'll give
you a call!

/Charlie

SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:
>In article <01bba116$f5a7fc00$52263ece@radix.wwnet.com>, From 
>"w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>, the following was written:
>> The cross slide adjusting gib set screws.  They used short screws and 
>> pins to make up the distance to the gib. I stripped these out in no 
>> time.  Had to drill out the holes and re-thread using LONG socket head
>  > set screws.
>
>We have had the same kind of problems for years.  The solution, at least
>for Logan Lathes, has been to use cone point, nylock set screws.  These
>will "dig" into the gib, to keep it from sliding, and the nylon pellet
>helps to resist the tendency of the screw to back off.
>
>This type of screw is hard to find, but we have them in 1/4-28 x 3/4
>size if anyone needs them.  
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/13/96 07:00
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>


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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Peter Nolan' Product Review, HSM 9/96
Date: 13 Sep 1996 12:00:50 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Message-ID: <09960813065442.OUI98.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <01bba116$f5a7fc00$52263ece@radix.wwnet.com>

In article <01bba116$f5a7fc00$52263ece@radix.wwnet.com>, From 
"w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>, the following was written:
> The cross slide adjusting gib set screws.  They used short screws and 
> pins to make up the distance to the gib. I stripped these out in no 
> time.  Had to drill out the holes and re-thread using LONG socket head
  > set screws.

We have had the same kind of problems for years.  The solution, at least
for Logan Lathes, has been to use cone point, nylock set screws.  These
will "dig" into the gib, to keep it from sliding, and the nylon pellet
helps to resist the tendency of the screw to back off.

This type of screw is hard to find, but we have them in 1/4-28 x 3/4
size if anyone needs them.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/13/96 07:00
 http://www.loganact.com



---------------------------------1257582117069--


From timtroyr@ionet.net__read sig before replying Fri Sep 27 16:03:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: timtroyr@ionet.net__read sig before replying (Tim Robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.
Subject: Re: Make Money Fast LEGAL!!!! <-- this nitwit's address
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 19:09:08 GMT
Organization: Me
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51mpju$5t0@ionews.ionet.net>
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In article <01bba416$2fafb260$21051fce@buddy.206.31.5.1>,
   "MONEY" <MONEY@MAN.COM> wrote:
>	5.	Jason Miller
>		S730 Lincoln-Spencer Rd.
>		Marshfield, WI 54449
>		USA

He put a bogus return e-mail address, so the proper place to take complaints 
is postmaster@tznet.com.  Theoretically, his real return address is 
buddy@tznet.com, but I'm not sure about this one.


| Tim Robinson                   | Lonely Web page.  Please visit.   |
| timtroyr@ionet.net             | http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr    |
| "The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by |
| men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding."  L. Brandeis |

The e-mail address timtroyr@ionet.net may not be used for advertising
commercial goods without prior request from the address or without the
payment of US$50.00 per incident.  Sending commercial advertisements
to the address shall be deemed acceptance of these terms.


From nicol@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:25 EDT 1996
Article: 34865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: 18 Sep 1996 02:30:26 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico>
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Russ Kepler <russ@bbxrbk.basis.com> wrote in article
<Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com>...
> In article <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>,
> Almus Kenter <kenter@flashman.harvard.edu> wrote:

> I'm not sure what you mean about accessories - you might need change
> gears and a thread dial indicator, a toolpost grinder, an indexing
> attachment, etc.  Most of that you should put off until a real need
> arises.  Much can be made - I've made quite a bit for my little 12x36
> Atlas.
> 
I have the same lathe and am contemplating making a toolpost grinder.  By
any chance is this one of the things that you made?  If so I would be
grateful for any details that you could provide on how to build one.  

I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
junk car and going from there.

John Nicol		jnicol@ix.netcom.com

 
 


From klaas@uniface.nl Fri Sep 27 16:03:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 10:52:43 GMT
Organization: Knoware Internet
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Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?

Klaas



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Fri Sep 27 16:03:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 16 Sep 1996 20:12:49 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 15
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I recently picked up a small die filer at a flea market and would appreciate 
information on it. The plate reads:

Keller Die Filer
Model 1A
Mach Tool Co.
St. Paul MN

I tried the phone directory and the usual net souces and could find no listing for 
Mach Tool Co. If any of you know the successor to Mach Tool or if any of you have 
the manual, parts list, or any other information, I would appreciate hearing from 
you. Thanks in advance,

Roger Weppelman 



From stephen.gallagher@istar.ca Fri Sep 27 16:03:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Stephen C. Gallagher" <stephen.gallagher@istar.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs English (Was: Metric system in the USA?)
Date: 16 Sep 1996 19:51:42 GMT
Organization: iSTAR internet Incorporated
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <51kb4e$ee4@nr1.ottawa.istar.net>
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To: Qkjfioasdn <qkjfioasdn@aol.com>

Qkjfioasdn wrote:
> 
> If possible would you want the US to start using the metric system?  Why
> or why not?
> 
> =David Ryder
> 
> Please send e-mail.
> Please E-me directly or preferably to:
> 
> E-me.com@juno.com

Yes, I would like the US to start using the metric system. I'm an
American whose been living in Canada for nine months. I've had no
problem adjusting to using the metric system.  The hardest part
was getting used to the weatherman give the temperatures in 
degrees celsius.  But I've even gotten used to that.

There are some valid arguments for not changing in the US.
The first is cost.  It will be very expensive for the states
to have to convert every highway sign reference from
miles to kilometers.  Speed limit signs, highway markers,
etc would all have to be changed and that's a monumnental
task.  Some states have plans in place to implement 
metrication of their highway signs.  Alabama has gone so far 
as to replace their existing highway signs with using
metric distances, however the metric has been overlayed
with miles.  The benefit of this will be that when metric
highway signs need to be deployed, all that will be required
is that they remove the overlay to expose the metric
distance.  

Stephen Gallagher


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Peter Nolan' Product Review, HSM 9/96
Date: 17 Sep 1996 14:40:35 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <09960817093903.OUI86.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <51m3v0$3fd@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>, From Charlie Greenman 
<greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>, the following was written:
> Funny, my Logan lathe (model 920) uses a pin to locate
> the cross-slide gib so that it doesn't bind. I'd figured
> that this was "stock".

Actually, that WAS stock on the earlier lathes.  The design was changed
on later machines to use the cone point screws.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/17/96 09:40
 http://www.loganact.com




From rogerm@fc.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 17 Sep 1996 14:53:02 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
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Three qualities of titanium that may make it desirable to make a crowbar from
would be it's light weight, strength and the ability to use it in explosive
environments where a spark caused by striking a steel one could cause a
disaster.
				Roger Mitchell



From steamer@west.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:31 EDT 1996
Article: 34871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stuart Turner Question
Date: 16 Sep 1996 07:29:18 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	Howdy, all; I seem to have 2 different FAX numbers for them and I 
don't know which one is right. Can someone steer me straight, so I don't 
waste time FAXing to limbo-land??
	Is it: 	011-44-1932-226738
	-or-:	011-44-1481-47912
	TIA,
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	-Hacking the "trailing 	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	edge" of technology...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:03:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 10:38:44 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960916101453.8539A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <3230A609.3867@the-spa.com> <00001f0c+00003406@msn.com> <511e91$n2i@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960910133809.10348A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <3237A0D2.11564B37@lemur.com> <ginger.521.001A0F3F@pcm.ultranet.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960913082554.5153A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <51c8f9$6au@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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In-Reply-To: <51c8f9$6au@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com> 

Jim:

A very tempting offer, and I am sorry to hear that business is so poor
that you have so much extra time on your hands that you are willing to
sell it for so little, but I have just recently sunk all my extra cash
into this really cool bridge that I scored for an unbelieveable price... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 13 Sep 1996, J.A.Harvey wrote:

> In <Pine.OSF.3.91.960913082554.5153A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
> Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu> writes: 
> >
> >
> >Amen, Ron.  About the only accessory that SHERLINE does not offer is 
> >extra time.  Probably be too expensive for us anyway.  Sigh...
> Dear Dr. Mike:
> 
> Don't tell SHERLINE about this, but I will be happy to sell you all the
> extra time you need at the bargain price of $10.00 per day. Please send
> a certified check in the proper amount to me ( orders over $1000.00
> will receive the latest SHERLINE price sheet at no charge!)
> 
> Hey, it's better than " PAY OFF ALL YOUR BILLS" right?
> 
> Jim Harvey
> jim@hre.com
> http://hre.com/
> 
> 


From wlbrown@netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:33 EDT 1996
Article: 34873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wlbrown@netcom.com (William L. Brown Jr.)
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Message-ID: <wlbrownDxty9F.7y6@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> <09960813130456.OUI34.SLogan@gnn.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.csufresno.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:44:03 GMT
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Sender: wlbrown@netcom9.netcom.com

In article <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.csufresno.edu>,
Greg Lewis <gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> wrote:
>
>Gentlemen, gentlemen! What is all this fuss about measurement? Such
>trivia makes life so much more complicated. Since I subscribed to the
>TLAR method, I've had no sleepless nights trying to convert bleats
>
>There are no measurement units in this system, because, as you can
>see, measurement is not necessary and there are no units of any kind.
>However terms such as "whisker" "skosch" and "bissel" are used when
>doing precision work.
>
>The TLAR method is the foundation of eyeball engineering.

And, for extreme precision, there's the ever popular "RCH".

Altho it can be difficult to find a genuine item for a standard, depending,
or not.

-bill
wlbrown@netcom.com
concord, CA


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!hookup!chi-news.cic.net!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 21:59:52 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 66
Message-ID: <Dxsnrs.211.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <3230A609.3867@the-spa.com> <Pine.OSF.3.91.960910133809.10348A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu> <3237A0D2.11564B37@lemur.com> <ginger.521.001A0F3F@pcm.ultranet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d141.w.interaccess.com

In article <ginger.521.001A0F3F@pcm.ultranet.com>,
Ron Ginger <ginger@pcm.ultranet.com> wrote:
:The owner of Sherline has been at the last several NAMES shows with a nice 
:display. He turns an aluminum bar with chips bigger than I do on my 11"x48" 
:Rockwell. He offers visitors to turn the crank and see if they can stall the 
:thing. It is amazing.

I can believe that.  The DC motor on the Sherline is a real gem.  The
controller appears to use the PM motor's back EMF as a feedback signal
to control the applied power.  That means that the motor still has its
full torque available, even at the lowest speed.

I've had my Sherline mill (5400) for a couple of weeks now, and my only
gripes are pretty minor:

 1. The T slots in the table are shallow, and the nuts project above the
    table surface.  That means that every time I make a fixture intended
    to bolt directly to the table, I have to counterbore the bolt holes.
    Yes, I could use hold-down clamps instead, but for a fixture that's
    only going to be used in one position it's a lot simpler just to
    drill holes above the table slots.

 2. Speaking of hold-down clamps, I'm not particularly impressed with
    the arrangement of the strap clamps in the hold down set (P/N 3012).
    I made some T-head bolts to use in place of the provided cap screws
    and T-nuts so that I don't have to select a bolt length and set of
    washers accurate within about 1/16" to get decent thread engagement
    without the ends of the screws digging into the bottom of the T
    slots.  Now I just have to select bolts that aren't so long as to
    interfere with the milling head.

 3. When set up as a vertical mill with the full-height column, you
    can't get a miniature milling cutter in a collet all the way down to
    the table.  Fortunately, I have the "Horizontal Milling Column
    Conversion," so I can just remove the 2" spacer block when I run
    into that problem, but it's a bit of a nuisance.  (Using the 3/8"
    end mill holder, P/N 3079, avoids that problem, but I have only
    miniature cutters at the moment.)

 4. Speaking of minature milling cutters, the draw bolt for the milling
    collet set needs to be bored out so that a double-ended end mill can
    be seated to the proper depth.  I drilled mine 13/64" to a depth of
    1/2" so that I can use double-ended mills up to 3/16" dia.  It seems
    that might have been intended.  Else, why would that draw bolt be
    5/16" dia. while all the other accessories use a 1/4" draw bolt?

 5. When rotating the head, the location of the set screw means that the
    Allen wrench obscures your view of the degree scale and index mark.

 6. It takes a while to get over your fear of clamping work to the
    aluminum table.

 7. That sucker is *BLACK*, and absorbs light like a sponge.  When I
    set it up in my workshop, the fluorescent lights groaned in agony,
    and one even popped its ballast in protest.  My neighbors now refer
    to my house as "the black hole" because it sucks up all the light
    within a 2-block radius.

As I said, that's all fairly minor or easily correctable stuff.  Overall
it's a damn nice machine.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From steamer@west.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: A Mandrel trick
Date: 16 Sep 1996 07:33:31 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <51jofr$n4g@acme.sb.west.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
NNTP-Posting-User: steamer
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]

	Howdy, all!
	I'm remaking the "big end bearings" for my Stuart Swan steam 
engine. These are bronze split bushings which are machined all over and 
the final operation involves clamping them to a mandrel to turn the o.d.
	Well, naturally the mandrel I turned for the job was too close to 
the right dimension and the parts wouldn't clamp securely. I didn't want 
to make another mandrel, so I got out my best pair of tin snips and cut a 
strip of Kleenex, wrapped it onto the mandrel, clamped on the parts and 
away I went: .020" deep cuts: no problemo and I didn't mark up the 
finished i.d. either.
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	-Hacking the "trailing 	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	edge" of technology...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep 27 16:03:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Softening Air Hardening Steel?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 20:21:59 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <51kqv7INNbe4@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <50npmfINNei3@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <517h2d$2ih@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
Reply-To: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>I've been wondering about this, too.  I got a *large* rotary die (possibly
 //// SNIPPED ///
>BTW, is die steel (A2 if my memory and my understanding of Machinery's
>handbook listing) good for anything other than dies?  I keep thinking about
>making the world's biggest replica of an E.T.Westbury Atom Minor......
>The die steel might make one hell of a sleeve.
>
>Pete Brooks
>
I want to thank all (both) who came up with some answers for
me on this.  It is a very technical subject and I do not
understand the reasons fully for the process of annealing
this or these type(s) of steel.  However there was consensus on
the processes and I will try to describe the two alternative
ways.  One is the "step" method and the other involves slow
cooling through a transition region.

Both methods involve initial heating of the steel to 1560F
to 1600F (maybe higher for some rarer types).

In the "step" process the 1600F is held for one hour per
inch of thickness of metal.  Temperture is readjusted
to 1200F and held there for 18 to 24 hours and then the
sample allowed to cool to room temperture in free air.

In the "continuous" process the temperture is programmed
down from 1600F to 1200F at a rate of 20F per hour.  At
1200F the steel is again allowed to cool in free air to room
temperture.  Some steels may tolerate colling at 40F/hour
instead of the 20F/hour.

I notice that the 1200F as the lower temperture is common
to both methods and the upper temp of 1560F to 1600F is also.
I do not understand the reasons for this behavior to be
able to explain why it works.  The step method would work with
heat treat ovens that did not have the programmable ramp
down feature however and would seem to be a more workable
method in a simpler oven however.

The comment was made that the natural cooling in my
backyard barbecue by smothering the charcoal was probably
much faster than the 20-40F/hour.  So I wish I had an
oven now to try this out but that will be a ways down the
pike.

ken "stick to hamburgers" knaell
Bethesda, MD


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: In Market for Lathe
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:38:11 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <323EF013.C8F@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cin-oh3-04.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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CC: kevrhods@ix.netcom.com

I am in the market for a used lathe.  9 or 10 inch swing and 24 to 36 =

inch bed length.  My use will be primarily for gunsmithing and =

prototyping of smaller items.  I am in the Cincinnati area.

I have looked at several and nearly fell in love with one.  The lathe in =

question is a South Bend 9 x 36, 1/2 HP motor, loose gears, a fair amount =

of tooling.  Scrape marks are still in evidence on parts of the ways.  It =

looks as though a fair amount of TLC has been spent on this one.  Seems =

like a steal to me at $725, but I have never bought one.  Any help?

I am also planning to go to an auction of an out of business defense =

contractor.  They have several Tongil 9 x 18 geared head toolroom lathes =

and several 9 x16 Feller & KBC precision lathes.  How does a geared head =

toolroom lathe differ from an engine lathe?  Does this mean that the =

gears are not quick change?  IsTongil good stuff?  I haven=92t heard of it.=
 =

 How about Feller, KBC?  How does a precision lathe differ from an engine =

lathe?

Assuming that the above are reasonably tight.  What would be a reasonable =

bid for them.  Not all,  but one.  Which would be best for the uses I =

have in mind?

Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks.


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: letter & number drills
Date: 17 Sep 1996 16:05:19 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <51mi7v$ea4@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: buffnet11.buffnet.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

All this posting about metric vs. non-metric (whatever you may want
to call the non-metric) has caused me to wonder about the many systems
used for drills (not to mention wire).  Why do we indeed have both
A-Z letter and 1-60 + 61-80 number drills along with inch fraction
and metric ?  Are any considered obsolete yet ?  Why did they limit 
the letter drills to just 26 (instead of AA, AB, AC, etc.) ?  I think
that there are actually duplications, with the same size showing up
in more than one system... don't make much sense to me ?  What's the
history behind all this ?  


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 15:13:32 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960910202222.28062B-100000@saul5.u.washington.edu> <515g27$rup@ratty.wolfe.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: buffnet11.buffnet.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Sombody wrote:
: >The U.S. is the only country besides Nauru that uses the English system.
: >We are losing the economic race by a furlong per fortnight because of it
: >( except in electronics, because we do use metric there ).

Electronic integrated circuit manufactures ALL OVER THE WORLD adhere
to the USA developed standard packages which are based on 0.1 inch
pin spacing.  What makes it work... it was ridgedly and well designed.
It really amounts to less than a hill of beans what system is used, 
as long as people understand it, and use it the same way.  



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 22:40:34 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <51khpg$djt@news-2.csn.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com


	:Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
	Sorry that's only true in the US - apint is 20 fl oz in the rest of the
	world. And their ton is different too - it's 2240 pound.  So NOW what ARE
	you talking about.

Really? Far out! I thought the "pint's a pound" saying came from the UK.
So Imperial Quarts are 40 oz instead of 32, and that's where the Imperial
gallon difference comes from?


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:03:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 20:22:43 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <51n1aj$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <323F02A9.15D3@ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

Try your local scrap dealer... here in Silicon Valley there's several places
that would have such scrap on a catch as catch can basis.  If you're in the 
SF Bay Area, let me know and I'll send a couple of likely candidates in
the South Bay.

= Bart



In article 15D3@ix.netcom.com,  Dan Pfanenstiel <dpfan@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of 
>copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and 
>my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Dan   dpfan@ix.netcom.com




---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:03:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 20:20:34 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <51n16i$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

Are you using a steady rest?  The cause of chatter on long workpieces is
often flex in the workpiece itself... and a steady rest that travels w/
the carriage is a good solution in this case.

In article 7B8B@etcard.com,  Richard Immel <rimmel@etcard.com> writes:
>I've an old (1946) South Bend lathe with horrendous
>chatter on long work pieces. I've had several friends
>much more knowledgable than I look at it so I'm 
>reasonably sure my setup is correct. It's been pretty
>carefully leveled, the gibs are tight, headstock is
>tight, etc. The lathe is in great shape, but the chatter
>sort of limits me, as I'm trying to do a little 
>gunsmithing and I can't turn a barrel down except at
>very slow speeds and feeds, and even then the finish 
>isn't too good. I'm looking for ideas, short of
>replacing the headstock, or the spindle, for fixing this.
>
>Thanks
>
>Richard Immel




---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From rimmel@etcard.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Immel <rimmel@etcard.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: South Bend Lathe
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:27:51 -0600
Organization: Executive Telecard
Lines: 15
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02Gold (WinNT; I)

I've an old (1946) South Bend lathe with horrendous
chatter on long work pieces. I've had several friends
much more knowledgable than I look at it so I'm 
reasonably sure my setup is correct. It's been pretty
carefully leveled, the gibs are tight, headstock is
tight, etc. The lathe is in great shape, but the chatter
sort of limits me, as I'm trying to do a little 
gunsmithing and I can't turn a barrel down except at
very slow speeds and feeds, and even then the finish 
isn't too good. I'm looking for ideas, short of
replacing the headstock, or the spindle, for fixing this.

Thanks

Richard Immel


From mac@adra.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:45 EDT 1996
Article: 34884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!hookup!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!drn
From: mac@adra.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gingery bandsaw
Date: 17 Sep 1996 06:57:17 -0700
Organization: Zippo
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <51mant$3i2@lex.zippo.com>
References: <323E249A.29EE@en.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigmac.adra.com

In article <323E249A.29EE@en.com>, Ed says...
>
>I saw an ad in the Lindsay  catalog for plans for a Gingery Bandsaw.  I 
>have seen the complaints about the Enco $200 bandsaw so I am 
>contemplating the Gingery as an alternative.  Since my usage would be 
>very light, I think I can live with the Enco, the price is certainly 
>right but I am curious about the Gingery.  Has anyone built this or 
>studied the plans?  As a beginner, I do not have a nice junk pile to 
>scavange material from, nor am I aware of any scrap yard where I could 
>roam around scavenging, so I would probably end up purchasing all the 
>material.  How much would it cost to build the Gingery this way?

I have not built the Gingery saw, but I have the book and have studied
the design. As with all the Gingery (both father and son) the book is
well written and the design is sound. IF nothing else, the book is a
very good referance on what to look for in a good saw.

As to what it would cost, hard to tell. It would take a considerable
chunk of time, but would supply lot's of experience for a novice metal
worker.


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:37:44 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51k398$vt6@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <pdbsf+-1209961346450001@gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu> <323B8049.2CDF@abrasha.com>
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <323B8049.2CDF@abrasha.com> Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> writes:

>I hope you are not trying to electroplate stainless, because it will not hold.

It is possible to plate stainless with some solutions, but you
have to de-passivate the surface first.  If I had mixed any up
recently I might remember what was in the bath for that, but I
haven't so I don't, but I know it can be done.

--

 Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From wlbrown@netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wlbrown@netcom.com (William L. Brown Jr.)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Message-ID: <wlbrownDxw7EC.F8H@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb.di <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51mo57$sd@aphex.direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:56:36 GMT
Lines: 13
Sender: wlbrown@netcom9.netcom.com

Somebody (for whatever reason!) wrote:
> I think however if you wish to continue with the  "inch-lb-sec system",  
> new hybrid units  called the Kilo-gallon and Mega-gallon should be 
> proposed.

Actually, in that range we use acrefeet.

Always my pleasure to bring enlightenment to the unenlightened.  Or
something like that.

-bill
wlbrown@netcom.com
Concord, CA


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: F.S. 16" Ohio Shaper $50. Detroit Mi Area
Date: 16 Sep 1996 13:28:41 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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FS: 16" Ohio Shaper in good condition, 8 speeds, motor is 220 V single 
phase. Weight is about 3500 lbs. Cost is $50.00 you move it out of my 
garage shop.  I have run out of room for this machine.  E- Mail or call 
810-353-1676.  



From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:03:50 EDT 1996
Article: 34888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 16 Sep 1996 16:58:07 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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Message-ID: <jesw-1609961302280001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> If I need a piece of hose, I simply hold my arms out and check the
> length. At the hardware store, I hold my arms out again, and the clerk
> puls out the required length.

If it's exactly a yard from your nose to your fingertips, you can be the King.


From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:03:51 EDT 1996
Article: 34889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 17 Sep 1996 22:49:23 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> wrote:

> I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
> surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
> surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
> commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
> magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
> cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
> this?

They have so much titanium that they make sub hulls out of it. Maybe the
advantage is in ease of handling, like aluminum pipe wrenches.


From kdka@netins.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:52 EDT 1996
Article: 34890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kdka@netins.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rockwell Lathe
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 01:26:07 GMT
Organization: INS Info Services, Des Moines, Iowa, USA
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I have recently acquired at 10" Rockwell metal cutting lathe of 1966
vintage.  I need several small parts for it but have been unable to
locate a source for them.  I have the manual which lists the part
numbers.  Can anyone give me an address of a source for parts for this
lathe.  Thanks in advance.  E. Armstrong



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:53 EDT 1996
Article: 34891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 18 Sep 1996 04:41:46 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Just got a letter from Metal Lathe Accessories touting their new filing
machine kit.  Saw one at NAMES and liked it very much.  Bout $100 U.S.
for the kit.

Gonna get me one so I have yet another machine to suck up bench space.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: 18 Sep 1996 04:39:57 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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What do you mean, "Don't cut yourself?"

The day is a total waste if I don't cause a little rust somewhere from
dripping blood.

Seriously,  go get your tetanus shot up to date and keep a bottle
of hydrogen peroxide near.

Remember your high school hygene or first aid class and make all
wounds bleed.  If you don't, you may end up like my neighbor.  He
pricked his finger on a clamp in a store.  The next day they barely
saved his life.  Turns out he was one of the first cases of the
'eats your body' infections.

After they controlled the infection, to save his hand they had to sew it inside the 
skin on his stomach.

Now he has a large 1" high puff of skin on the back of his hand.

Make every wound bleed.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From dufq80a@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dufq80a@aol.com (DUFQ80A)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 17 Sep 1996 23:26:08 -0400
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Deja vue all over again!  Thats how foot, yard, rod, link, stone,
pennyweight etc.
all started, isn't it?


From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:56 EDT 1996
Article: 34894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Distribution: world
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: BARREL TUMBLING - General
From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (Raymond Frye)
Message-ID: <6.24477.1453@spacebbs.com>
References: <50i6n8$4eq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 10:01:00 -0800
Organization: Space BBS - 15 node PCBoard - FTP/TELNET/GOPHER - (415-323-4193)
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References: <50i6n8$4eq@newsbf02.news.aol.com> 

>  *@FROM   :edk4@aol.com
>  I've been interested in the possibilities of tumbling to 'smooth'
>  aluminum and plastic parts. In, admittedly a haphasard  fashion, I've
>  looked into tumblers, but only found sources of, and infor- mation
>  about, lapidary and decorative crafts uses.
<snip>
----------------------------------------------------

You need to look up deburring. Tumble deburring is used but more often
a vibratory tumblers (it shakes turning the contents over gently) is
used.

A large tumbler can shake sand from casting. We use a small rock tumbler
to clean bolts (however overnight treatment leaves threads that look 
like a sine wave). Two vibratory types are used in the shop for metal
parts. One has ceramic triangles and soapy water for stainless steel
parts and the other has walnut shell for aluminum pieces.

Most machine shop equipment vendors can link you to a local
representative. If there is a machine shop in your area go there. There
are always deburring equipment vendors since this is such an important
step in providing a finished part.

Ray

 * RM 1.3 02229 * Some can read the tops of the chocolates


From bharne@adss.on.ca Fri Sep 27 16:03:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Bill Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 02:38:22 GMT
Organization: Zippo
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>
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Either the chuck backing plate was improperly turned or the jaws have
become worn or offset, possibly by overtightening.

You should be able to remove the chuck body from the backing plate by
removing a few bolts or cap screws and checking it with a dial gauge for
accuracy. 

The backing plate usually is machined in place on the lathe on which it is
to be used to fit the depression at the rear of the chuck body. If this
maching was done improperly or the backing plate not properly seated, on a
_clean_ headstock spindle, you'll experience runout.

Hopefully, there'll still be enough "meat" left on the backing plate to do
a proper job of re-machining it.

If the jaws or the scroll plate (inside the chuck) are distorted or worn.
you should be able to have the chuck refurbished by a reputable
distributor.

Good luck!

Alan Muller <amuller@dca.net> wrote in article <51k3l5$9s3@news.dca.net>...
> (First, thanks to all who replied to my query re use of inverters 
> to drive 3 phase motors.  I will report when I get mine installed.)
> 
> Recently I checked the runout (TIR) of some of my Jacobs type chucks.
> For the most part I measured .002 to .005 TIR of a chucked drill, and 
> about .002 TIR of the chuck nose itself, both when mounted in my
Taiwanese
> drillpress and in my small (Atlas 6") lathe.  I'm particularly bothered
by
> the .004 runout of my Jacobs headstock chuck (threads onto the lathe 
> spindle).  Questions:  is this typical and to be expected?  If not, what
> causes the runout and is there a remedy?
> 
> Thanks for any info.
> 
> am
> 


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:03:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 04:02:20 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <felice.225.323F744C@pioneer.net>
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If you've ever hiked three miles up a muddy hill, to dig for rocks,
with three crowbars of different lengths, you'd come to
appreciate titanium pretty quickly!



From general@the-net.u-net.com Fri Sep 27 16:03:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "the NET! General User" <general@the-net.u-net.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WIN $3,000 WITH BODYCOTE plc!!
Date: 17 Sep 1996 06:28:53 GMT
Organization: U-NET limited
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Message-ID: <01bba461$1b095500$43a577c2@dcsat.u-net.com>
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Unlike many competitions you see on various newsgroups, ours is completely
legitimate in that no money is required to enter and it relies on your
intelligence!

Bodycote plc are offering a first prize of $3,000 and the opportunity to
visit Manchester UK in their 1997 Competition.

The essence of it is that if you are a student in full or part time
education at Universities or their equivalent or research establishments in
the UK, USA and Europe, you may submit a paper on any aspect of surface
engineering onto metallic components - excluding paint finishes.

THE PRIZE WINNER WILL DELIVER HIS/HER WINNING PAPER AT THE BODYCOTE
INTERNATIONAL plc ANNUAL DINNER IN MANCHESTER UK WITH ALL TRAVEL AND
SUBSISTENCE EXPENSES BEING REIMBURSED TOGETHER WITH THE $3,000 PRIZE
MONEY!!

Details may be found at:-

http://www.u-net.com/~the-net/bodycote.htm




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!imci2!pull-feed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 23:41:35 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <51ncvf$ap9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <511qe2$gou@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <blake-1409961700060001@206.84.2.91>
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Speaking of mixed units, in semiconductors, we got used to the idea of mixing
between English and Metric units beyond belief.  It's slowly going metric, but when
I started (in 1974--AKA. -1 PC) we measured junction depths in microns (millionths
of a meter), pressures in Torr (1 Torr = 1mm of mercury, 760Torr at 1 atm), geometry
sizes in mils, and die sizes in mils.  (and take-home pay in peanuts, but that was
another company, long ago.)

Now that we are in the enlightened(?) 90s, we measure geometries in microns, die
sizes either in microns or mm, thickness is still in mils, while I've seen some
equipment calibrated in Pascals for pressure.  (Take home pay went up to filberts.)

BTW, as far as Fords are concerned, I think that the fastener size is largely due to
where the component is made.  My Ranger V6 is metric, which seems to make sense,
because it was a German designed engine.  The trans is Japanese, also metric, while
the alternator is still US, and is ANSI.  I got used to having two sets of wrenches
years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly
well.....

Pete Brooks



From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: In Market for Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 23:25:34 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <51nc1e$539@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
References: <323EF013.C8F@ix.netcom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Sep 17  6:25:34 PM CDT 1996

In <323EF013.C8F@ix.netcom.com> "Kevin Rhodes, P.E."
<kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> writes: 
>
>I am in the market for a used lathe.  9 or 10 inch swing and 24 to 36
=
>
>inch bed length.  My use will be primarily for gunsmithing and =
>
>prototyping of smaller items.  I am in the Cincinnati area.
>
>I have looked at several and nearly fell in love with one.  The lathe
in =
>
>question is a South Bend 9 x 36, 1/2 HP motor, loose gears, a fair
amount =
>
>of tooling.  Scrape marks are still in evidence on parts of the ways. 
It =
>
>looks as though a fair amount of TLC has been spent on this one. 
Seems =
>
>like a steal to me at $725, but I have never bought one.  Any help?
>
<snip>

Kevin,

 You mention the lathe is a 9" Southbend w/ loose change gears. That
could be either a model B or C. The C model does not have power feeds,
it only has 1/2 nuts for threading. The B model has powerfeeds as well
as 1/2 nuts. A model B will have a clutch and three position feed lever
on the apron in addition to the lever for the 1/2 nuts. The B model is
worth a few hundred more than the C model. These lathes are easy to
upgrade. A model B can be made into a model A by adding a quick change
gear box ($300.00 used) A model C can be converted to a B or an A model
for between $250- 500.00.
 The price seems a bit high- UNLESS the bed is really nice. The bed is
the one thing you can't fix or upgrade cheaply. I recently bought a 9"
model C for a few hundred dollars. The bed was as new. I converted it
to a model A with parts from my collection and had a beautiful,
accurate model A when I was done. The lathe sold immediately for $1500
with almost no tooling. If the bed on this machine is near perfect (it
doesn't sound like it from your description) the lathe is worth the
price. If it has lots of accessories like steady rest, follower rest,
taper attachment, it may still be worth the price. Otherwise, pass it
up.
 You mention gunsmithing. I strongly advise you to consider a machine
with 5C collet capacity. You can get a 1-3/8" OD piece through the
headstock that way. The 9" southbend will accept 3/4" through the
spindle, 1/2" with collets. This may plague you throughout your
gunsmithing career.
 Feel free to check out my website at http://hre.com/meridian to get a
better idea of pricing.
Happy Hunting,
Dave Ficken 
Meridian Machinery " A different kind of Machinery Dealer"



From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:02 EDT 1996
Article: 34900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!imci2!pull-feed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: In Market for Lathe
Date: 18 Sep 1996 00:46:30 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <51ngp6$v9m@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <323EF013.C8F@ix.netcom.com>
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In <323EF013.C8F@ix.netcom.com>, "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>I am in the market for a used lathe.  9 or 10 inch swing and 24 to 36 =
>
>inch bed length.  My use will be primarily for gunsmithing and =
>prototyping of smaller items.  I am in the Cincinnati area.
>I have looked at several and nearly fell in love with one.  The lathe in =
>question is a South Bend 9 x 36, 1/2 HP motor, loose gears, a fair amount =
>of tooling.  Scrape marks are still in evidence on parts of the ways.  It =
>looks as though a fair amount of TLC has been spent on this one.  Seems =
>like a steal to me at $725, but I have never bought one.  Any help?
>

The only advise I could give (other than the already mentioned comment
that you should try to obtain tooling with the machine you buy, because 
that stuff is the *real* expense) is that the 9" SB machines do have
a fairly small spindle hole - about .7 inch if I recall correctly.

I specifically remember this as being troublesome on the 9" that I used
to own - plus the collets used (3C or 3AT) are harder to come by
and more expensive.  

These machines tend to be mostly hobby use - so they are often
in fairly good shape as far as wear on the bed, slides, and feed
screws goes.  But they are less rigid, and will not do larger jobs
the way larger lathes will.

Do you want to pass a 1 inch diameter barrel through the headstock?

The 10" SB lathe will take 5C tooling - this is a real plus, as there
is a lot of it around, used and also new imports which are cheaper
than buying 3C hardinge collets.

As a benchmark, my 9" SB cost me $800 about 10 years ago, and it
came with *boxes* of tooling - but had been clearly been used
in a production environment, and was pretty well beat up.

The 10" SB I traded up to also cost $800, and came with much less
tooling, and was just about as badly beat up - but was a much
more servicable machine once refurbished.

I finally traded in for another SB 10", in excellent condition - unworn
flame hard ways, and newly cometiscized.   cost = 1.6K.  It also had
very little tooling along at that price.  

Hope this gives you more food for thought!
===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================
Machinery *also* done here...


From dpfan@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:04 EDT 1996
Article: 34901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Copper plate, where?
Message-ID: <323F02A9.15D3@ix.netcom.com>
From: Dan Pfanenstiel <dpfan@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:57:29 -0700
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Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of 
copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and 
my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.

Dan   dpfan@ix.netcom.com


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hot chips!
Message-ID: <1996Sep18.092659.954@flying-disk.com>
Date: 18 Sep 96 09:26:59 PDT
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 27

Two fellow students in my CAD/CAM class are long-time die
sinkers who came up through the apprentice program.   Last
night they were laughing about accidents involving hot chips.

Earlier that day, one of them was at the lathe turning a
large piece of die steel.   A large blue chip came off,
arched over his head, and neatly dropped down the back of
his shirt.   He immediately yelled and arched his back in
an attempt to keep it away from his skin.   His partner
ran over and pulled up the shirt in an attempt to help
remove the chip, getting his hand cut and burned in the
process.   One chip, two victims.

As we traded war stories about similar incidents, they told
me about the time the California Employment Development Department
was investigating the apprenticeship program.   A woman from
the department came to talk to both the bosses and employees.
She was upset at the lack of women in the program and wanted
to know why.   After talking about hot chips, one of the older
machinists pulled open his shirt and said, "Can you imagine
any woman who would want scars like this all over her chest?"
End of discussion.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Todd Muscat <rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Best Language-based CAM  (APT) system
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 03:05:09 -0700
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Hi,
I was wondering what the group felt are the best CAM products out there on 
the PC platform?  MasterCAM, CAMAX, etc.?  What I really need is a system 
that can *ALSO* be language based - which, i guess is to say 'APT-based'.  
I realize that for some reason "APT" is now a dirty word in this industry 
(i guess largely due to all these bubble-gum point-&-click CAM systems 
nowadays:-).  Most vendors choose to call what is 98.7% APT, something else 
- like "NCL".
Cheers
Todd



From ojnab@Silk.Net Fri Sep 27 16:04:06 EDT 1996
Article: 34904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ojnab@Silk.Net (Robert M. Kaplan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Casting stuff wanted
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ISO used gear (A to Z) for small jewelry casting (new hoby).  Suggestions?


From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:04:07 EDT 1996
Article: 34905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 20:22:01 -0700
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, David Baggaley wrote:

> How does one prime aluminum these days? In the bad old days you
> just used zinc chromate primer or something similar. It's no longer
> available at the consumer level.
>
> I want to spray paint my aluminum storm door. Any ideas?
>
> Dave
>
If you can find any chem. film for aluminum, it will provide a surface for
the primer.  For primers we are using epoxy primer, which also has
chromates in it.  Zinc Chromate is no longer available in much if not all
of the industrial supply places.  The epoxy primer is not expected to be
around much longer.

					Cheers,



From violette@lightlink.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  (Martin Violette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 11:34:31 GMT
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In <323E3AA5.5BBD@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca>, David Baggaley <baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca> writes:
>How does one prime aluminum these days? In the bad old days you
>just used zinc chromate primer or something similar. It's no longer
>available at the consumer level. 
>
>I want to spray paint my aluminum storm door. Any ideas?
>
>Dave
>
Strontium chromate primer (two-part) is still available in the US - try marine stores.
Martin


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: In Market for Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 17:36:03 GMT
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	The lathe in =
	question is a South Bend 9 x 36, 1/2 HP motor, loose gears, a fair amount =
	of tooling.  Scrape marks are still in evidence on parts of the ways.  It =
	looks as though a fair amount of TLC has been spent on this one.  Seems =
	like a steal to me at $725, but I have never bought one.  Any help?

Take a look at our FrankenLathe page (we're almost ready to paint!):

	http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html

This wil give you an idea of what kind of work can be involved in 
rebuilding a "good used" machine (I paid $800, probably too much for a
change gear lathe in this shape).

For $725, I would want to see that the ways are in good shape, get a couple
of chucks, dog plate and tooling and a complete set of change gears, maybe a
steady or follower rest (these seem to be impossible to find used).

Plaza Machinery regularly lists South Bend 9x24 model A (quickchange) for
around $900, including chuck, dog plate, drill chuck and tooling. Rests
and taper attachments are desirable extras.

Get a copy of "Machine Tool Reconditioning" and read the chapter on lathes,
to get an idea of how to test a lathe you're thinking of buying...


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:04:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 17:46:15 GMT
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In article <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu>, jsanders@jove.acs.unt.edu (Justin M Sanders) says:

J. Sanders writes"

>There is a similar relationship with the U.S. fluid volumes and weights.
>
>1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
>oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
>that. :)  
>
>[Note: this relationship, though close, is not exact-- a fluid oz of
>water is really heavier by about 4% than an avoirdupois oz.]

>Dal wagner relies:

I must confess that I have learned something today. I had no idea that 
the relationship between the pound and pint existed.  Where have I been 
all these years?

It could be a useful piece of information if  you wished to determine 
the approximate weight of a fluid filling  a vessel, not too much larger 
than a coffee cup, and were prepared to  accept that a 4% error in your 
calculation was unavoidable. 

It is difficult however to visualize what size a water reservoir would 
be required that was capable of holding 275,267,349 pints of fluid.  
It's obviously larger than a coffee cup  but is it bigger than an 
Olympic swimming pool?  Your conversion method tells me that the water 
weighs approximately 275,267,349 pounds with an unquestionable certain 
error of 1,101,069 pounds. Because pints are a strange unit of measure 
for large volumes you would  probably have to convert these pints to  
gallons before you gave me some indication of the reservoir dimensions. 
No matter how you slice it you will have to do several calculations 
using various conversion factors to arrive at your answer. At the very 
least someone will have to convert those pints to a suitable container 
having it's dimensions in  feet , inches, yards or miles.  
(I could swear there are a couple more units of length in the 
"Lb-Ft-Sec system.")  Forgive me if I missed a few.
You  don't have to do this with the metric  "Kg-Meter -Sec. system". 
Volumes of water relate directly to cubic measure.
As I mentioned, two year olds can convert, between cubic millimeters, 
cubic centimeters and cubic meters, and determine the weights of these 
volumes of water all without a pencil, paper or calculator. 
Try  converting the 275,267,349  pints to quarts then gallons,  and at 
the same time  tell me at each stage the respective weights of these 
volumes of water. You will now see why most of the world, given the 
option, prefers moving those decimal points. It's just an effortless 
" no brainer".

I think however if you wish to continue with the  "inch-lb-sec system",  
new hybrid units  called the Kilo-gallon and Mega-gallon should be 
proposed. These new units could further be adjusted to make provision 
for both the Imperial and the slightly different US gallon. Perhaps 
they could be averaged out.
A problem will still be apparent however because if you use gallons, 
you will continually be  multiplying by 8 to convert the gallons to 
pints in order to tell me the weight of those volumes of water. 
The ability to convert a volume of water , called a pint, to an 
approximate weight called a pound has limitations not only when speaking 
of large volumes but also for smaller volumes.

By definition  a liter is the volume occupied by one kg of water at 4 
degrees C and every unit of volume, or equivalent weight, larger or 
smaller are simply  multiples of 10. 
For the smaller metric volumes I know, without calculation, that 1 
cubic millimeter of water weighs exactly 1 mg and one cubic centimeter 
weighs exactly 1 cg.
 
Additional possible hybrid units to cover the smaller volumes for the 
"inch-lb-sec system" might be the deci-pint, centi-pint, mili-pint and 
come to think of it if you will want to relate these to weights , the 
deci, centi, and mili-pound will have to be established as well. Then 
again the cubic inch and the fluid oz, are additional units of volume 
that could be used in this area of measurement. Two more unrelated 
conversion factor shouldn't make all that much difference. Now we have 
5 different units in the inch system to indicate volume. We have the 
cubic inch, the fluid oz. ,the pint, the quart and the US gallon. Each 
of these units cannot be compared directly unless suitable conversion 
factors are applied.
Metric has one and only one unit of volume and it is simply called the 
"LITER". Larger and smaller units of the liter are simply multiples of 
10. 

How clever could those metric people get?  From the numbers I wrote in 
the previous paragraph it becomes obvious that  the  weight density of
water in the metric system now becomes 1.0 gf/cubic mm. You will also 
note that if you drop the units from this expression , the value 1.0 is 
also the specific gravity of water .  Clever . It sort of appears as 
though someone did some thinking when they developed the metric system.
This interesting feature ( It wasn't an accident) now permits anyone 
who knows the metric system to automatically calculate without pencil,
paper, or calculator the buoyant forces on submerged objects. Perhaps 
the 2 year olds couldn't do this but I think the metric trained 6 year 
olds would impress you.
Keep the water weight density of  62.4 lbs/cubic foot. I'll keep the 
1.0 gf/cubic mm . If  I challenged someone to  some speed calculations in 
this area I would even handicap myself by removing the batteries from my 
calculator. Still no contest! I won't be using the calculator.
########################################################################
J.Sanders writes:

>But, if your lathe is only accurate to 0.0005 (inches) anyway, then all
>those additional decimal places are meaningless.  Even if the cross feed
>dial was scaled in 32nds, so that we could put it on the exact number of
>32nds, it wouldn't really matter-- It might give us a warm and cozy
>feeling to line those marks up, but I wouldn't bet the house that it would
>be 3.65625000000000 (20 million zeroes deleted) despite the fact that it
>is "exact".  Same thing with a metric machine.


Dal Wagner replies:

I have to agree completely with your analysis. I still have a slight 
problem however. I don't remember the decimal equivalent for 17/32. I 
don't believe this to be a reflection of inadequate education nor the 
result of sleeping in class that day. 
In fact most people would be forced to look it up in a table or  book 
and then round off 0.53125 to the appropriate number of decimal places. 
This problem just doesn't happen with the metric system.
Each one of these steps introduces time delay and potential errors.
If productivity or the potential for introducing errors are ignored the 
inch system works.
########################################################################

 J.Sanders writes:
>
>Now, let's take our 1 inch and our 1 cm and lay them out on our machines
>in 3 equal parts.  Neither fraction (neither 1/3 in nor 1/3 cm) is going
>to terminate, so both of us will have to round to the nearest fraction
>that our machine can measure or to the nearest fraction within our
>tolerance.  No matter what system one uses, there will frequently be times
>when one will have to lay out a fraction that doesn't have a terminating
>(or short) decimal equivalent, and everyone will have to round in that
>situation.

>Justin M. Sanders           "I shot an arrow into the air.  It fell 
>Dept. of Physics               to earth I know not where." --Henry
>Univ. of South Alabama           Wadsworth Longfellow confessing
>jsanders@jaguar1.usouthal.edu     to a sad ignorance of ballistics.

Dal Wagner replies:

I realize you are asking a hypothetical question which makes it quite 
difficult for me to answer.
If  someone asked me to divide a unit of metric length into 3 pieces and 
that length was not a multiple of three, I would come up with a metric 
dimension requiring me to round off my decimal points. Just as there is 
no geometrical solution to trisect an angle I too would be stumped when 
someone throws a fraction at me and asks me to relate it to an exact 
metric equivalent.
In real life  however , people trained in the metric system just don't 
think in terms of fractions and the question simply wouldn't exist. We 
could carry this position to the ultimate extreme and ask people to 
divide the part into equal divisions of 1/343.  It is possible to do but 
I don't think this happens too often even in the in the world of 
fraction devotees.
There is a lot of flexibility when designing parts . If something 
required dividing into 3 parts the designer would be certain that his 
dimension was a multiple of 3. This is no problem with the metric 
system . I have seldom seen more than 2 digits following a mm dimensions. The second decimal position if altered by one unit only changes the dimension by 0.0006 inches. Metric designers have no problem altering that last digit to make the over all length divisible by  three.

I cannot think of any time I have had to do any calculating when  
working from a metric drawing.
To start with, if any designer made a drawing that required the 
machinists do calculations, he or she would soon be in charge of 
sharpening the pencils and nothing else. 
This philosophy is held not because the machinist is incapable of doing 
the calculations, but to make machinists  more productive and insure 
quality. The information if complete and accurate only goes on a drawing 
once. If the information is incomplete on the drawing  the machinist 
must make the same calculations and provide the opportunity for new 
errors each time the drawing is used.  It simply is unfair to place this 
burden on Machinists.
I can't think of any designer that would put something on a drawing that 
required dividing something in thirds. Not even someone who uses 
fractions unless the dimension was a multiple of  3.
Designers don't make dimensions to fit parts. They make parts to fit 
dimensions.



It's amazing how far we can drift from rec.crafts.metalworking. 
All in good fun nevertheless. Physics dept. knocking the metric
system. Heresy I say! Heresy!

Regards


Dal Wagner


######################################################################
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 *****************************************************************************

*****************************************************************************

  


From billg63475@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: 16 Sep 1996 14:11:46 -0400
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In article <Dxsnrs.211.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>,
rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) writes:

>
> 1. The T slots in the table are shallow, and the nuts project above the
>    table surface.  That means that every time I make a fixture intended
>    to bolt directly to the table, I have to counterbore the bolt holes.
>    Yes, I could use hold-down clamps instead, but for a fixture that's
>    only going to be used in one position it's a lot simpler just to
>    drill holes above the table slots.


I used to have this same problem until i just took several of the t-nuts
and ground the necessary amount off of the top. Now the only problem is
keeping those nuts separated from the one that are not modified.


I have also modified one of the boring bar holders on the lathe to
acconodate the Dremel flex shaft.  Live tooling if you will. I have used
it many times to cut hardened shafts and gears  using a tuffgrind cutoff
wheel.

Bill


From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:13 EDT 1996
Article: 34910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 12:16:29 GMT
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neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff) wrote:
>I have a Logan 11" lathe.  My most recent project was to put
>a block of steel on the cross slide and a #5 center drill in
>the head chuck.  I then fed the steel into the drill.  It did
>drill, but the cross slide vibrated quite a bit.  I suspect
>that the nature of center drills had something to do with it.
>I found that the BACK of the carriage actually was moving up
>and down, and was pumping oil in and out of the gap.

I too have an 11" Logan, a model 920. The rear gib screws
lift (distort) that metal plate and that's what provides
the adjustment. As you probably know. To check what's going
on, pull the tailstock all the way back to the rear and
move the saddle as far to the rear as you can. That's good
bed back there. Put a magbase on the rear of the saddle (not 
the cross slide) and put a DTI on the bed and adjust the rear 
gib screws so you can lift the saddle about a thou. Then 
adjust the gib screws so that you just can't lift the saddle. 
Now run the saddle back up toward the headstock (with the DTI
still on the bed) and again try to lift the saddle. The amount
you can lift it is bed/saddle wear. I would not adjust the
gib to be tight when the saddle is up near the headstock if
that binds it as it goes toward the tailstock as that will
rapidly wear your bed.

I use synthetic 10w30 oil on the bed and would not use 
anything heavier than that.

In the FAQ is a description of a technique you can use to
see how much bed wear you have. It's written to show how to 
align the bed but it will also show how much wear you have 
and where it is. I'd try that.

Even if you have little bed wear, you could have a lot of
wear in the base of the saddle. There are 6 surfaces on the
saddle where it meets the bed. If the saddle ways are worn,
then adjusting the rear gib will simply tilt the saddle so
some other part of it is in contact with the bed. 
Unfortunately, tightening a gib is rarely the answer.

You have to think of this as sort a puzzle. See how much lift
there is in the saddle when it's adjusted for lift as 
described above. Then see how much bed wear you have with
the technique in the FAQ. Then remove the rear leadscrew
bracket, loosen the front gib (two screws) and holding the
bottom of the apron so it doesn't fall, unscrew the two large
allen bolts that hold the apron to the saddle and withdraw
the apron out the rear. Undo the rear gib and the cross-slide
and lift up the saddle and have a look. Wipe down the good
rear bed, put just a bit of spotting blue on all six surfaces
on the saddle, set it straight down gently on the bed, move
it back and forth about an inch and lift it straight up and
have another look. You may see that it is only touching a
little bit and on only two of those surfaces. If so, that's
your problem. Or one of them. What you do then depends on
the condition of the bed, but at the very least buy a copy
of Connelly's "Machine Tool Reconditioning" (see the FAQ).
Correcting this on my lathe took about a year of my time,
but taught me a lot and at the end you have one hell of a
fine lathe. I wouldn't do this with a lathe that is less
quality than a Logan. I really wouldn't. Because it takes
a LONG time. But it sounds to me like you have to take a
very close look at your lathe because it should not be
behaving like this. Get Connelly's book.

Good luck,

Charlie (Oh and you aren't expecting too much out of that
          lathe. It is a lovely lathe.)


>
>I took that as a recommendation to tighten the back gibs.
>When I did this a little bit, it stopped wiggling there, but
>now the carriage moves much stiffer.  It is so stiff that the
>friction clutch for the cross feed has a hard time moving it
>even without tool contact!  I can adjust the clutch to work,
>but it is quite tight.  Too tight?  How tight is right?  It
>has to be tight to make a good cut, right?  I would like to
>have the best accuracy that I can for normal spindle turning.
>I only tightened those two screws a smidgen, perhaps 1/16 turn.
>
>Anyway, with it tight, the compound still wiggles with the
>center drill, but not the carriage back.  I also tightened the
>cross slide gibs.  Better, but stiffer, and it still wiggles
>with the center drill.  With a 1/4" twist drill or larger,
>it cuts fine.
>
>My real question is: did I go overboard with the tightening?
>Those levers are all now quite tight, tighter than any machine
>I can recall ever using, but I'm not that experienced.  Am I
>expecting too much out of a Logan 11" lathe?
>
>Thank you very much for your comments.
>--
>Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
>7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
>Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564




From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:04:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gingery bandsaw
Date: 17 Sep 1996 12:14:35 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 38
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 9/30/96
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In article <323E249A.29EE@en.com>, Ed Smega  <smega@en.com> wrote:
>I saw an ad in the Lindsay  catalog for plans for a Gingery Bandsaw.  I 
>have seen the complaints about the Enco $200 bandsaw so I am 
>contemplating the Gingery as an alternative.  Since my usage would be 
>very light, I think I can live with the Enco, the price is certainly 
>right but I am curious about the Gingery.  Has anyone built this or 
>studied the plans?  As a beginner, I do not have a nice junk pile to 
>scavange material from, nor am I aware of any scrap yard where I could 
>roam around scavenging, so I would probably end up purchasing all the 
>material.  How much would it cost to build the Gingery this way?


I have studied the plans quite thoroughly. As with other Gingery
projects, this seems to be well done. The capacity of the saw is much
greater than the $200 Taiwan specials, and it will be as accurate as
you make it. He uses many bolted assemblies that I'd rather weld. All
components are common ones in either a metal yard or *good* hardware
store. The only part I'm not too sure about is his vise design, but
that's an easy fix. Also he does not use ball-bearing blade guides.
My very rough, eyeball estimate for new materials (I don't have much
of a scrap pile, either) is $200 or more. I did put all the needed
metal stock into a database and could send along the totals if you'd
like. 

In the end, if you want this capacity saw, or want a project, this
would be a good option. On the other hand, if you need a saw to cut
metal and need to get on with it, then this will be a substantial
diversion. As you have read, the cheapo machines will work with
appropriate tuning.


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From Chrish@easynet.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:04:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WIN $3,000 WITH BODYCOTE plc!!
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 18:35:22 GMT
Organization: [posted via] Easynet Group PLC
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <51mr1o$nh4@cherry.news.easynet.net>
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"the NET! General User" <general@the-net.u-net.com> wrote:

>Unlike many competitions you see on various newsgroups, ours is completely
>legitimate in that no money is required to enter and it relies on your
>intelligence!

>Bodycote plc are offering a first prize of $3,000 and the opportunity to
>visit Manchester UK in their 1997 Competition.

Hey mister, I live within a few miles of Manchester. What's second
prize - 2 visits?

Chris





From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:04:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Damage Revisited
Date: 17 Sep 1996 18:44:12 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Charles L. Rowe (clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu) wrote:
: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

: >Dave Ficken (mermac@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: ><snip>
: >: that Southbend did a pretty mediocre packaging job. Six quarts of paint
: >: were put in the same box seperated by only some styrofoam "peanuts". It
: --snip!--
: >We are pretty serious (and aware of Gov't. regulations) on haz-mat
: >shipment and handling here at the Chemistry department.  Sounds like
: >the broke the law at South Bend!

: >				Jon


:    I had a potentially dangerous packing situation with my last order
:    from Brownell's.  It's the first time in 15-20 years that they did a 
:    crappy job in packing my orders. I had two 1-gallon cans of parts
:    washer solvent ( flammable, sorta-smelly, don't want to gargle with,
:    liquid stuff) in a box with the rest of my order, just some paper
:    keeping things apart.  Lucky the only damage was a hard plastic
:    box 1 part was packed in didn't survive; the 1 gal cans were dented
:    a bit, I'm not sure the plastic bags they were wrapped in would do
:    any good what with the sharp shards from the plastic box scraping
:    against them. 

:     I didn't think of it at the time, but there was no haz-mat sticker
:    on the box....

:     I've noticed that despite the stringent regulations, and the
:     lawsuit-happy world we live in, thoughtless shipping practices seem
:     to be on the increase.

Interesting.  I've ordered a few things that might be considered haz-mat,
or maybe not, but anyway liquids in plastic bottles.  I've ordered coolant
concentrate and various lubes, as well as DyKem, which would really love
to leak all over, and is most certainly flammable.  In all cases, it was
packed fairly well, with layers of boxes, plastic bags, etc. to prevent
damage to the inner container.  Now, of course, if the truck were to
roll over or run into the ditch, enough stuff could fly around to puncture
the inner container, which the shipper is SUPPOSED to guard against, EVEN
in an accident.  But, I've never had leakage of more than a trace of
fluid (2 - 5 drops around the cap).  Maybe I'm just lucky on this.


From bdkrohn@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:17 EDT 1996
Article: 34914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Byron D. Krohn" <bdkrohn@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gingery bandsaw
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:12:35 -0500
Organization: Byron Krohn Gunsmith
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To: Greg Lewis <gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>

Greg Lewis wrote:
> 
> In article <323E249A.29EE@en.com>, Ed Smega  <smega@en.com> wrote:
> >I saw an ad in the Lindsay  catalog for plans for a Gingery Bandsaw.  I
> >have seen the complaints about the Enco $200 bandsaw so I am

Hi Greg, I hope you would answer a couple of questions for a newby:

1) What is the address, (E-mail, or Snail-mail) for Enco?

2) Where could a guy get information on a Gingery Bandsaw?


Many thanks,


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Lathes
Date: 16 Sep 1996 14:30:32 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 55
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Chris: as an owner, I'm pleased as can be, and have no trouble recommending
them except for, perhaps, stainless steel etc....

Very sturdy, low probability of accuracy impairment with age, and perfect
for Al....  2 basic lathes - bed length is the only difference [unless you
want metric vs. imperial graduations on the handwheels.]

A milling column can be used in place of the headstock [motor ass'y just
gets attached to the mill column; about 2 minutes max], but the milling
table they sell is better for dimensions above an inch or so.

Price in US is closer to 400, many dealers will discount 15-20%.
The new model motor may run on 120 and 220/240 AC, and has lots of torque...

Most folks seem to prefer Sherline to the Unimat - I looked at both and it's 
not a contest!

Post a "looking for dealer" note in the newsgroup, and I'm sure someone
will give you a reputable name who will give you a discount.  Now, the
shipping charges across the pond......!

/mark

Chris Marlow (cam@bra01.icl.co.uk) wrote:
: Hi Gang, I am new to machining and I am after some advice on the above
: machine. Can somebody answer a few questions?

: I need a Lathe that is small and most of the work will be turning Alu parts
: that are less than 1" Dia.


: 1) Is there more than 1 model of Sherline Lathe?

: 2) Can you Mill on it?

: 3) I may need to turn an Alu part that is about 3" in dia. Can this Lathe
: handle this size?

: 4) In the UK the lathe is priced @ £425 about $600. Is this a good price?

: 5) Anybody know of suppliers of these machines in the UK apart from
: MillHill Supplies?

: 6) Are these machines real Lathes? Not just toys?

: 7) Would I be better off buying a Lathe that is much bigger than I need?



: Sorry that these questions are so many. Thanks in advance, Chris.

: cam@bra01.icl.co.uk


:  


From kyoung@iptcorp.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:20 EDT 1996
Article: 34916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kyoung@iptcorp.com (Ken Young)
Subject: Re: soldering
Message-ID: <Dxw55t.980@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <516ev7$j04@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:08:16 GMT
Lines: 14

colinml@rt66.com (Colin Montoya-Lewis) writes:
: Hi all,
: My wife asked me to solder a leak in an electric tea kettle, and I am 
: wondering if there are any potential problems with doing this, like lead 
: in solder or the heat of the kettle simply remelting the solder?
: 
The temperature of the teakettle will not go much above the temp of
boiling water.  If you use a lead-free solder that doesn't have
a low melting point you will be fine.  Many hardware stores carry
a 95% tin / 5% antimony lead free solder.  This is also the alloy
for a food-safe pewter.  Be sure to scrub the flux off.

Ken Young



From .,@compuserve.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:20 EDT 1996
Article: 34917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: metallcasting
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From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:22 EDT 1996
Article: 34918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip60.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 03:54:34 GMT
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References: <51k3l5$9s3@news.dca.net> <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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On the same topic, is the outside of the
Jacobs chuck body (not the sleeve) machined concentric to the inside?
This would make remachining the taper/threads/spindle
an easy job. Anyone from the Jacobs Company out there?
On a side not, ever notice (after dissassembling the chuck)
that the split nut part of it seems to be just that, split.
is that so that there is no slop in the screw action, for accuracy reasons? 


From kroeker@mbnet.mb.ca Fri Sep 27 16:04:22 EDT 1996
Article: 34919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kroeker@mbnet.mb.ca (Harold Kroeker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: query re vernier gauge
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:10:23 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>David Stock (ya156039@alumnet.yorku.ca) wrote:
>: My friend, who builds scale models of steam engines, has a "DIGITAL
>: INOX" vernier gauge with an SPC 4 terminal connector and an LCD
>: display.

>: He wants a remote display of the digital output.  This would allow him
>: to better see the display under his shop arrangements.

>: Can you let me know if his project is possible.  If so, can you give
>: me any information on circuitry or interfaces that would help?  He
>: does not use a computer and wants a simple LCD or LED readout.

>Sure, it is possible.  The output is serial, ASCII (I think), but
>definitely NOT RS-232 voltage levels.  The whole scheme is described
>in an article a few years ago in Steve Ciarcia's 'Circuit Cellar, Ink'
>magazine.  I can go look for the issue.  This magazine is now called
>the Computer Applications Journal.

I am interested in this as well.  A remote readout for my digital
calipers would allow me to use them as an easy to read depth indicator
for the quill on my mill/drill. If you do find the article, I would
sure appretiate a copy via fax, s-mail, e-mail attachment, download
>from  a website, or even from the publishers if you can provide be with
a phone number for them.

Harold




From MrE@suba.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.suba.com!dial52.suba.com!user
From: MrE@suba.com (Mr. E)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Foundries???
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:10:10 +0900
Organization: Mystery
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <MrE-1809961310100001@dial52.suba.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial52.suba.com

            Hi, I was recently browsing the net, when I came across the
Hazardous Waste Research and Information Center.  I am very interested in
different ways of recycling foundry waste.  One method that I've used is
art.  I take the used solid silica sand (the remains of sand after the
cast is completed)  from foundries that use a chemical set binder, and I
make various types of crafts from them.  But now I've run into a problem,
that I can't seem to solve.  The Elizabeth foundry that I got the sand
molds from has recently closed down, and I can't seem to find another with
the same type of sand casts.  So do you or any of your associates have a
list of foundries in the Chicagoland area that might work with silica
sand, using a chemical set binder?  Or do you know what steps I can take
to find this information on my own?  I have tried the yellow pages, the
internet, and the library with no luck.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Sincerely yours,

Mr. E
mre@suba.com


From clouds@rmi.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:24 EDT 1996
Article: 34921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!news.rmii.com!not-for-mail
From: clouds@rmi.net (Philip Duclos)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: titanium sheet
Date: 18 Sep 1996 18:11:37 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain Internet
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <51pe0p$g4j@natasha.rmii.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rainbow.rmii.com

This is probably more than anyone here needs but...

For sale - 1 lot of titanium sheet

4' x 9' 0.0200 sheet - GR1  11 sheets
smaller, generally thicker sheets make up the remainder of this 553lb
lot. Material is flat and in good condition. All is:
spec ASTM B 265-90 GR1
spec ASME SB 265 GR1

FOB Colorado Springs, CO

Price is negotiable.

Phil Duclos
pjd@clouds.com


From bgg@eden.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bgg@eden.com (The Book Garden Gallery)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmithing & Metallurgy Books
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:57:50 GMT
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The following may be of some interest...

Aston, James. WROUGHT IRON. "It's Manufacture, Characteristics &
Applications." A.M. Byers Co: Pittsburgh, Pa, 1939, Second Edition,
97 pp, illus. & photographs slight wear to spine & corners. VG $15

Bealer, Alex. W. THE ART OF BLACKSMITHING. 
Funk & Wagnalls: NY, 1969, 425 pp, over 500 illustrations by the
author, dj has some stains on back cover & small tear on corner. VG
$10

BLACKSMITHS AND "FARRIERS" TOOLS AT SHELBURNE MUSEUM.
"A History of Their Development From Forge to Factory." The Shelburne
Museum, Inc: Shelburne, Vt, 1966, 272 pp, many photographs, paper
cover has slight staining on front. VG+ $45

THE BLACKSMITH IN EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY WILLIAMSBURG.
 "An Account of his Life & Times & of his Craft.." Publ. by Colonial
Williamsburg: Williamsburg, 1971, 30 pp, illustrations, paper covers.
(Pamphlet)  Good+ $3

Jennings, R.F. Gas & A.C. ARC WELDING AND CUTTING.
 Knight & McKnight Pub. Co: Bloomington, Illinois, 1946, Second
Edition, 118 pp, many illus. & drawings, xlib, paper covers slightly
waved. VG $6

McMillan, Orin W. HEAT TREATMENT OF IRON AND STEEL CASTINGS.
International Correspondence Schools: Scranton, Pa, 1944 edition, 58
pp, photographs & drawings, pencilling on some diagrams, staining on
edge of some pages, paper covers. Good $3

McMillan, Orin W. HEAT TREATMENT OF TOOLS AND DIES.
International Correspondence Schools: Scranton, Pa, 1945 edition, 65
pp, some pages have stains & bending, drawings & photographs, paper
covers. Fair - Good $3

McMillan, Orin W.  METALLURGY OF STEEL.
International Correspondence Schools: Scranton, Pa, 1944 edition, 67
pp, drawings, soil & staining on paper covers. Good $3

McMillan, Orin W. INTRODUCTION TO HEAT TREATMENT.
International Correspondence Schools: Scranton, Pa, 1944 edition, 55
pp, some end pages have bent corners, paper cover has some soil & tear
on spine, illus & drawings. Good $3

McMillan, Orin W. METALLOGRAPHY.
International Correspondence Schools: Scranton, Pa, 1945 edition, 80+
pp, photographs & drawings, some pages have slight staining on edges,
paper covers. Good $3

Richardson, M.T. PRACTICAL BLACKSMITHING.
Weathervane Books: NY, 1978, 276 pp. plus 15 pp advertisements, Four
volumes originally published in 1889-91, combined in one, with a new
forward by Dona Z. Meilach, over 1,000 b&w illustrations, dj. Out of
print. VG+ $38

A TEXTBOOK ON SHOP AND FOUNDRY PRACTICE.
International Textbook Co: Scranton, Pa, 1903, large section on
Blacksmithing & Forging plus sections on Machine Molding, Foundry
Appliances, Malleable Casting, & Brass Founding, many illustrations,
brown pebbled leather cover, gold lettering on spine. VG $45

Weygers, Alexander G. THE MODERN BLACKSMITH.
Van Nostrand Reinhold Co: Ny, 1974, 96 pp, illus. by the author,
photographs, Softbound.   VG   $20


Please email or telephone for more information as need.  Thank you.




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From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Subject: Re: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Date: 18 Sep 1996 19:58:28 GMT
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RUSTAN is presumably the best of the small quantity metal suppliers
in Vancouver.  I'm happy there, the Guy [bad pun] who writes the
Machinist's Bedside Reader series is happy there, and they have
what I want when I drop in.

/mark


Tom Carlson (tcarlson@skybus.com) wrote:
: some places i have found that are very helpful in small quantity 
: purchases of fasteners and metal are pacific fasteners ltd 3934 
: east 1st ave burnaby.... they even have a small cash sale only 
: desk.... lots of fasteners and rod.....for metal i usually go to 
: the metal mart in langley  113-20120-64th avenue ... it is a 
: division of civic tool & die works ltd... if he does not have it 
: he will get it for you and "reasonable" small retail prices... in 
: a pinch you can try airarms fasteners on 76th in surrey but they 
: are trying real hard to get away from anything "retail"... 



From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
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C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
> as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
> But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
> Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
> I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
> in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
> 
> Klaas

The spray galvanizing stuff is supposed to be pretty effective. I have
no experience to back that up.

MSC has the stuff for about $5 a can; I've seen it in specialty catalogs
for $20 a can!

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From saustin@northnet.org Fri Sep 27 16:04:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 22:57:15 -0400
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JWCERCIS wrote:
> 
> I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
> missing?
> 
> Mill

Sometimes the fastest and easiest way to make a small hardened
part is to grind it up from hard stock.

Steve A.


From amuller@dca.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 16 Sep 1996 17:44:05 GMT
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(First, thanks to all who replied to my query re use of inverters 
to drive 3 phase motors.  I will report when I get mine installed.)

Recently I checked the runout (TIR) of some of my Jacobs type chucks.
For the most part I measured .002 to .005 TIR of a chucked drill, and 
about .002 TIR of the chuck nose itself, both when mounted in my Taiwanese
drillpress and in my small (Atlas 6") lathe.  I'm particularly bothered by
the .004 runout of my Jacobs headstock chuck (threads onto the lathe 
spindle).  Questions:  is this typical and to be expected?  If not, what
causes the runout and is there a remedy?

Thanks for any info.

am


From vince49@pipeline.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:31 EDT 1996
Article: 34927 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vince49@pipeline.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Digital Caliper
Date: 18 Sep 1996 12:02:18 GMT
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In article <51nqr4$kl2@agate.berkeley.edu>, Stephen Gaudio writes: 
 
>>I've had bad luck with Interapid (made in France, sold by Browne &
Sharpe) 
 
On mine half the display blanks out half of the time.  
I guess thats what I get for buying from a Sharpie.  (get it?)


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:04:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34928 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Upcoming Steamboating Event
Date: 16 Sep 1996 18:08:07 GMT
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I feel that posts like this are very dangerous... :-) I went to the
delta meet back in 1985 or so and got hooked on steam boating... I now
have my own boat (see http://playground.Sun.COM:80/~barts/boat.html for
picture) and spend a fair amount of time tinkering in the garage with
the power plant... caution: steamboats are an addicting hobby - there
just isn't anything quite the same as steaming along a tree-lined
river, making so little noise that you can sneak by the blue herons and
snowy egrets w/o disturbing them.  If you're fond of things mechanical
and enjoy boats, the Great Delta Steamboat is a dangerous place to go!



In article gsv@acme.sb.west.net,  steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) writes:
>	--In case you haven't heard already, the Great Delta Steamboat 
>Meet will be held on the last weekend this month, on the California 
>Delta. To get there, take hwy 101 to hwy 12 and head East, past the city 
>of Rio Vista and on down the road a piece to the B&W Resort Marina. 
>	--If you have a yen to get into steamboats, this is the place to 
>learn a thing or two and to maybe pick up a few items you'll need at 
>the *very* informal dockside swapmeet. 
>	--Rumour has it there will be at least 3 Stanleys on hand this 
>year, too.
>	BCNU,
>-- 
>	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	-Hacking the "trailing 	
>	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	edge" of technology...
>	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
>		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>	




---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From BBeizer@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:33 EDT 1996
Article: 34929 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: BBeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:39:51
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1. Pressure should always be expressed in stone-furlongs per hectare.

2. Capacitance in miles-per-hour or stadia per candle: I have also favored
   micro-versts/millenia.  

3. Douziemes should replace millimeters where possible.  

4. An even more basic approach would be to revert to biblical mensuration, as follows:

  Length:  
    4 fingers = 1 palm
    3 palms   = 1 span
    2 spans   = 1 cubit
    1 stadion = 400? cubits = 202 yards

  Volume:
    4 log     = 1 qab
    3 qab     = 1 hin
   10 'omer   = 1 'epha
    2 hin     = 1 s'ah
    3 s'ah    = 1 'epha
   10 'epha   = 1 homer = 1340 liters
    
  
  Weights:
    20 gera   = 1 shekel
    60 shekel = 1 mina
    60 mina   = 1 talent
     1 pim    = 2/3 shekel
     1 bq     = 1/2 shekel

   But as my old physics professor used to say: "There are only two mensuration
systems--the metric and the barbaric."

Boris


Boris Beizer

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dr. Boris Beizer                                                  Seminars and Consulting on
1232  Glenbrook Road                                      Software Testing & QA
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006, USA
TEL:     215-572-5580     FAX:  215-886-0144     Email:  Bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From damian@fx.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34930 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Richard Damian <damian@fx.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: table for milling machine
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:01:36 -0700
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Quite a few years ago I bought a used Burke (horizontal) mill.

The table was in bad shape with numerous craters where t-nuts had been
pulled up through the top.

I milled the table flat below the surface of the t-slots and bolted
a 1" thick piece of to the top and cut new slots.  A friend then
surface ground it for me.

As one might have suspected, after a period of months the bolts holding
the top began to telegraph to the surface.

I would prefer to build a new table top from a slab of grey iron
(like meehanite) or buy a table off a junked machine.  I seem to 
remember also that there was a source of moderately large positioning
tables (5"x18") for lab use, but I cannot recall the source.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

-Dick


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34931 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 21:53:09 GMT
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In <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> Richard Immel <rimmel@etcard.com> writes:

>
>I've an old (1946) South Bend lathe with horrendous
>chatter on long work pieces. <snip>

Richard,
 It sounds like you need a follower rest or a steady rest for this
application. They are the most requested accessories for these Lathes,
so expect to pay dearly for them- especially if you are brave enough to
buy one direct from Southbend.

regards,
Dave Ficken 
Meridian Machinery "A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
http://hre.com/meridian





From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:04:36 EDT 1996
Article: 34932 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 18 Sep 1996 21:09:03 GMT
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In article <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) says:
>
>
>Gentlemen, gentlemen! What is all this fuss about measurement? Such
>trivia makes life so much more complicated. Since I subscribed to the
>TLAR method, I've had no sleepless nights trying to convert bleats
>to milliburps or back. The TLAR method (That Looks About Right) not
>only saves time, but materials, too, as one no longer suffers holes
>worn through the trousers from rulers or tapes poking out. 
>
>If I need a piece of hose, I simply hold my arms out and check the
>length. At the hardware store, I hold my arms out again, and the clerk
>puls out the required length. He can figure the price... that's his
>job! Visits to the lumbaryard are similarly easy. All lumber comes in
>standard sizes, so it is easy to select a piece that will fit. Cutting
>to length is done by holding the board up to its location, marking
>with a pencil and making the cut. To turn a shaft to fit a hole: Put
>shaft in lathe. Turn it. Try it in the hole. If too big, file it down,
>or use emery paper or a hammer. That's what they're made for!  If it's

>(Just in case there is someone out there who can't see me grinning as
>I type this, read it into a tape recorder and play it backwards.)

I see you smiling Greg.
 
It sort of reminds me of the carpenter who said,
"I can't believe it!" I've cut this same board twice and it's still too 
short!"

Salutations

Dal Wagner


From cwh@aloft.att.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34933 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Carl Hoffmeyer <cwh@aloft.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP identifying ANVIL
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:52:29 -0700
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Columbus, Ohio
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I have been fortunate to acquire an anvil from a gentleman who
lives literally around the corner and has a collection of
technology that is stupifying.  (When was the last time you saw
a leather skiver?)

I am trying to get some info about the origins of the anvil.
Length: 20 1/4" (overall)
Height: 11"
Face:   13" x 4"
Horn:    7" long (including step) x 3 1/2" deep at base
Feet (four): front to back: 10 3/4"; side to side 9"

This is clearly a built-up anvil.  Visible weld seams at feet, horn,
and face.  The bottom of the horn is quite craggy in appearance.
There is a hardie, centered, and 2 1/4" from the tail, but no pritchel.
There are two "lifting holes", front and back, 1" high x 3/4" wide x
1 1/2" deep.  There is also a rectangular hole dead center in the base,
and tapering, 1 3/4" deep.

The anvil weighs at 133 lb.  I have examined the whole of it minutely
and find the only lettering on the side.  As I face the side, the horn
is on my left.  There are three (sets of) numbers, one near the front,
one near the middle, and the last near the tail.  They read "1  0  21".
Based on the 133 lb. weight, I read this as 1 X 112 lb.; 0 x 28 lb.;
1 x 21 lb. That is 112 lb. + 21 lb.  The numbers were apparently struck
using a number set (the base of the two "1"s exhibit letter-form
similarities).  However, the "2" seems broken; the left side of the
figure, which should curve down, is missing. These characters are
about 3/4" high.  I have searched in vain for any other marks on it.

The surface is thoroughly, though shallowly, pitted.  When struck,
it gives off a sweet, sharp ring -- This is not a cast-iron anvil!

The anvil is in good shape except for the face, which has some bad rust
spawling (regions about 1/8" deep).  I plan to do some build up work
on the face and a little on the horn.  After grinding and polishing,
I plan to use the product "Extend" to arrest the rust on the rest of it.

I hope to use this fine piece of steel and would ask your help in
identifying it.  (And yes - I've got to go see my friends in NJ
ABANA before too much longer. :-)

Thank you,
Carl Hoffmeyer


From tcarter@csir.co.za Fri Sep 27 16:04:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34934 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tcarter@csir.co.za (Tim Carter)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:23:09 Local
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8678 rec.crafts.metalworking:34934

In article <51ok9r$7ur@news.knoware.nl> C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> writes:
>From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
>Subject: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
>Date: 18 Sep 1996 10:52:43 GMT

>Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
>as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
>But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
>Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
>I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
>in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?

>Klaas

You're quite right, the area around the weld will corrode easily, because the 
heat of welding has vapourised the protecting zinc. The fumes you get with 
welding over galvanising are the zing floating away.

Zinc-rich paint works well, not as good as the original hot-dipped zinc, but a 
lot easier to apply. It doesn't last as long as the HD zinc either.

regards

tim

"My opinions are my own, and other usual disclaimers."



From anderson@darex.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34935 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anderson <anderson@darex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 01:53:12 GMT
Organization: InfoStructure - Ashland, OR
Lines: 29
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>
> congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:
> 
> >I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
> >six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and
> >doubtless has a hard skin and hard spots throughout.  Should I attempt
> >it with a cobalt steel drill, or a solid carbide?  Any lubricant as I
> >get deeper, or simply do it in small steps, clear the chips,  and let
> >everything cool down?  Any practical advice will be much appreciated. 
> >Next time I'll somehow rig a core for such a hole!
> >
> >                                    --Alan Heldman
> 
> Don't know the answer to most of your questions but I found that
> drilling cast iron in the lathe (horizontally) will clear the chips
> out really nice - it allows you to do the job much faster.
> (Oh, this is assuming you drill dry - which you should)
> Jens

Alan- HSS drill, 90 degrees with 12 degree relief is prescribed 
for cast iron.
For a list of recommended drill point angles see:
http://www.darex.com/m&mtech.htm  for more info see also
http://www.darex.com/links.htm  (machinist's cgi scripts and tables)
-Curt Anderson
Darex




From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34936 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:37:42 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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>JWCERCIS wrote:
>> 
>> I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
>> missing?

First, you need 2 sets of drill blanks. then you can use them as spacers of 
various dimesnions for setups.

also make great hole gauges, to test sizes.

good for alignment pins when holding pieces together for more work.

put them in holes, then measure the distance between them to measure hole 
centers.

I got a couple sets in a 'box lot' at an auction once. almost gave them away, 
but then started to find how valuable they are. now Ive got 2 sets each of 
fractional, number and letter.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From lee1959@delphi.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34937 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Evans <lee1959@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: * Knives & Blades By Mail *
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 21:45:34 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 140
Message-ID: <JZOxUcO.lee1959@delphi.com>
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 * SPECIALTY KNIVES AND BLADES * MAILED TO YOU ADDRESS * 
  SEE BLADE1.JPG & BLADE2.JPG  
*************************************************************
SPECIALTY KNIVES  A-H
*************************************************************
_____________________________________________________________
[A] Mini"Defender" ITEM #24125, PRICE $7.95 + $2 s/h.
 Knife features non-slip grip and leather
 sheath. Chrome plated. 7 3/8" blade.
______________________________________________________________
[B] The"Liberty" knife ITEM #25271, PRICE $19.95 + $3 s/h.
 Sturdy 4" stainless steel blade, bone handle, nickel silver
 bolsters, and an eagle's head at base. 5 1/2" closed.
______________________________________________________________
[C] Hunting Knife ITEM #5985, PRICE $15.95 + $3 s/h.
 Has stainless steel blade, chrome handle, leather like sheath.
 10 1/2"
_______________________________________________________________
[D] Fish Knife ITEM #7353, PRICE $7.95 + $1.50 s/h.
 For a fast fillet. Thin precise fish knife with stainless steel 
 blade and 10 1/2" waterproof sheath with belt loop.
_______________________________________________________________
[E] Pocket Workshop Knife ITEM #22529, PRICE $19.95 + $3 s/h.
 Includes a fish scaler with file and rule, four handy
 screwdrivers, knife, awl, can opener, wire cutter and pliers
 all in one 4" handle! Vinyl pouch.
_______________________________________________________________
[F] Survival knife ITEM #3540, PRICE $14.95 + 3 s/h.
 5 3/4" stainless steel blade is a fish scaler and bottle 
 opener. Handle end is a liquid-filled compass. Compartment
 inside handle contains hook, sinker, nylon fish line, a
 wire saw, needle and matches. Sheath holds a sharpening stone.
_______________________________________________________________
[G] Hunting Knife ITEM #22051, PRICE $16.95 + $3 s/h.
 Knife features durable 4mm stainless steel blade. Molded
 comfort-grip handle with etched chrome floral pattern.
 10 1/2". Includes belt-loop leather sheath.
_______________________________________________________________
[H] Survival knife. ITEM #3421, PRICE $15.95 + $3 s/h.
 Heavy gage 5 3/4" stainless steel blade, bottle opener
 and fish scaler. Handle contains compass,matches, wire 
 saw, nylon fish line, hooks, sinker and needles. 
 Black vinyl sheath contains a sharpening stone.
_____________________________________________________________
**************************************************************
Pocket and Camping Knives A-Q
*************************************************************
_____________________________________________________________
[A] 3" Lock-blade knife ITEM #1751, PRICE $2.99 + $.60 s/h
 Triple riveted simulated bone handle. Great pocket knife.
 _____________________________________________________________
[B] 5" Lock-blade knife ITEM #1749, PRICE $4.95 + $1.00 s/h
 Simulated bone handle pocket knife. Triple riveted.
 _____________________________________________________________
[C] Deluxe 3" lock-blade knife ITEM #1718, PRICE $1.99 + $.50 s/h
 Drop-forged, heat-treated blade riveted hardwood handle.
 _____________________________________________________________
[D] Deluxe 4" lock-blade knife ITEM #9632, PRICE $2.99 + $.60 s/h
 Genuine hardwood handle riveted with brass bolsters. 
 Drop-forged, heat-treated blade.
 _____________________________________________________________
[E] Rugged 5" lock-blade knife ITEM #9633, PRICE $3.99 + $.50 s/h
 genuine hardwood handle pocket knife. Drop-forged, 
 heat-treated blade.
 _____________________________________________________________
[F] 4" Sawtooth pocket knife ITEM #25280, PRICE $7.95 + $1.60 s/h
 Has a bottle opener and leather case.
 _____________________________________________________________
[G] American Flag Knife ITEM #25281, PRICE $6.95 + $1.50 s/h
 The American flag and an eagle decorate the handle of this
 all-purpose knife. Stainless steel 3" blade and brass bolsters.
 4" folded. Leather case included.
______________________________________________________________
[H] Pocket knife ITEM #3484, PRICE $4.95 + $1.00 s/h
 Has a horn handle.
______________________________________________________________
[I] Derringer-style pocket knife ITEM #22049, PRICE $7.95 +$1.60 s/h
 Features a 3mm stainless steel blade and a brass handle inlaid
 with black and simulated pearl  plastic. 6 1/2" long(opened).
______________________________________________________________
[J] Stainless steel hunting knife ITEM #24126, PRICE $4.95 + $1.00 s/h
 Blade locking mechanism prevents folding while in use.
 3 1/2" blade.
______________________________________________________________
[K] 3-blade pocket knife ITEM #3485, PRICE $6.95 +$1.50 s/h
 Stainless steel blade with horn handle and brass bolsters.
 Triple rivets. 4" long.
______________________________________________________________
[L] Lock-blade knife ITEM #3487, PRICE $9.95 + $2.00 s/h
 Has brass and plastic handle and stainless steel blade.
 5" closed.
______________________________________________________________
[M] 11-function pocket knife ITEM #21320, PRICE $12.95 + $2.40 s/h
 Has 3-blades, corkscrew, saw, screwdriver, bottle opener, file
 scissors, and others. 3 1/2" long.
______________________________________________________________
[N] Swiss-style army knife ITEM #8874, PRICE $12.95 + $2.40 s/h
 Has 11-functions including 3 blades, corkscrew, saw,
 screwdriver, and more. 3 1/2" long.
______________________________________________________________
[O] Six-function knife ITEM #20228, PRICE $10.95 + $2.00 s/h
 Has bottle opener, knife, corkscrew, spoon and fork.
 All detachable. 4 1/8" red plastic handle.
______________________________________________________________
[P] 23-function knife ITEM #24518, PRICE $14.95 + $3.00 s/h
 Great on camping trips. Has fish scaler, saw, screwdrivers of
 various sizes, pliers, knives, can opener and more. Flip out
 for easy use. A self-contained pocketful of tools in a handy 
 belt-pouch. In black or burgundy.
______________________________________________________________
[Q] Camping knife ITEM #3565, PRICE $14.95 + $3.00 s/h
 Has knife, fork, spoon, corkscrew, awl, file, canvas needle,
 can/bottle opener, saw, and fish scaler.
*************************************************************
To order please fill out order info below with check or money
order and please include shipping and handling.
        Gifts of Charleston
        Box 3104
        Summerville, SC 29484-3104    
        
--------------------------------------------------------------
Item #   | price    | s/h    |          SPECIAL
---------|-------  ---------     "Buy Three...Get The Fourth Free"
_________|_______.__|_____.__|1   The free item will be the least
_________|_______.__|_____.__|2   expensive item.
_________|_______.__|_____.__|3   
_________|xxxxxxxxxx|xxxxxxxx|4 FREE
         |_______.__+_____.__|=________.__ total

Items are to be shipped to:
Name ______________________________________________________
Address ___________________________________________________
City _________________________    State ______   Zip ______
Enclosed is my check or money order for $_____.___ for the items 
which includes shipping and handling.
Please allow two weeks for delivery.

-----------------------------------------------------------




From paris@mcs.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34938 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paris@mcs.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 11:36:13 GMT
Organization: MCSNet Services
Lines: 5
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>   Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> writes:
>  I think it's officially called the "Imperial" system.

NIST (The folks in charge of weights and measures in the US) call feet, gallons (US), and so on: 
"US customary units".


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34939 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell Lathe
Date: 17 Sep 1996 11:55:03 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 96
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In article <51knq5$rse@insosf1.netins.net>, From kdka@netins.net, the 
following was written:
> I have recently acquired at 10" Rockwell metal cutting lathe of 1966
> vintage.  I need several small parts for it but have been unable to
> locate a source for them.  I have the manual which lists the part
> numbers.  Can anyone give me an address of a source for parts for this
> lathe.  Thanks in advance.  E. Armstrong

If you can't find them elsewhere, let me know.  We make parts for Logan
Lathes, and may be able to help with your Rockwell. Also, try:

NEW REPAIR PARTS AND ACCESSORIES FOR LOGAN LATHES
------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Logan Actuator Co.
4956 N. Elston Ave.
Chicago, IL  60630-1782
Tel. 312-736-7500
Fax  312-736-6854
E-Mail: SLogan@gnn.com
http://www.loganact.com

MACHINE TOOLS AND PARTS, USED AND NEW
------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Meridian Machinery
PO Box 1
Babylon, NY 11702
Dave Ficken
Tel. 516-956-1442
E-Mail: mermac@ix.netcom.com
http://hre.com/meridian

PKE, Inc.
P.O. Box 6595
Libertyville, IL 60048-6595
Pete Welzen
Tel. 847-362-0014
Fax  847-362-5657
E-Mail: pmcpke@concentric.net
http://www.concentric.net/~pmcpke

Plaza Machinery Co.
P.O. Box 14
Bethel, VT  05032
Joe Bergamo
Tel. 802-234-9673
Fax  802-234-6325
E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com

Richard Triemstra     
6238 College Dr.
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127-2554
Tel. 313-563-7571
Fax  810-756-1524

Other Manufacturers
------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Buck Chuck Co.  (Buck Chucks)
P.O. Box 2589
Kalamazoo, MI  49003
Tel. 616-381-1200  or  800-228-2825
Fax  616-381-2456

Clausing Industries  (Clausing Colchester, Atlas Lathes)
811 Eisenhower Dr.
PO Box 877
Goshen, IN  46526
Tel. 219-533-0371
Fax  219-533-0403
http://www.gardnerweb.com/imtscd/profiles/clausing/clausing.html

Hardinge Inc.  (Collets)
P.O. Box 1507
Elmira, NY 14902-1507
Tel. 607-734-2281
Fax  607-734-3886
http://www.pmpa.org/mem/hardinge.htm

Sheldon Machine Division  (Sheldon Lathes)
2100 Cedar St.
Fremont, OH 43420-1008
Tel. 419-334-8971

South Bend Lathe Corp.  (South Bend Lathes)
400 W. Sample St.
South Bend, IN 46601-2892
Tel. 219-289-7771
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/17/96 06:54
 http://www.loganact.com




From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34940 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 17 Sep 1996 11:54:44 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <09960817063056.OUI19.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <51js8r$d39@scipio.cyberstore.ca> <51l4ic$iac@news.pinc.com>
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In article <51l4ic$iac@news.pinc.com>, From rborden@coastnet.com (Ross 
Borden), the following was written:
> I've got a ridiculous problem that maybe someone can help me with.  I 
> called Grizzly Imports to request a catalog but when I they found out 
> I live in Canada, they refused to send me one.

Sounds like you should talk to the distributor you say has the machines
in Canada.  After spending many years shipping parts and machinery to
Canada, and the headaches involved, I can't blame them.  NAFTA is a
joke.  The idea was great, but the implementation is something else
again.

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/17/96 06:54
 http://www.loganact.com




From DrD@2020.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:45 EDT 1996
Article: 34941 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DrD@2020.com (Dr. M. J. Di Girolamo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Back orders & shipping charges
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 08:32:56 -0400
Organization: 20/20 Optometry
Lines: 28
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>Well I ordered some stuff thru them and because I was ordering anyway
>ordered a can of blueing. They backordered the blluining and shipped
>it a couple of days later. The shipping alone made the can very
>expensive and the only reason I had ordered it was to get it shipped
>eith an exosting order. Actually they ended up shipping the order in
>four seperate pieces and charging me shipping on all of them. I won't
>order from them any more if I have a choice. I often order something I
>was "going to get sometime" with an existing order but thier shipping
>makes that a waste of dollars...

  It has been my experience that anytime a company back-orders an item, it
is then sent free of charge, once released.  This is subject to
common-sense law i.e. if the item is a 3000# milling machine it would be
difficult to justify asking for free back-order shipping!  However, when
the item is light weight and small, shipping & handling charges can become
a significant percentage of the cost, call customer service and express
your concerns.  I have done this with ENCO and they take care of the
matter immmediately.  Often times it comes down to how customers present
things.  As another common-sense suggestion, I'd add; "be civil about it!"

Mike
-- 
M.J. DiGirolamo, OD, FAAO
Optometrist
Fellow of the American Academy of Optometry
DrD@2020.com
Charlottesville, VA


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:04:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34942 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Date: 15 Sep 1996 19:21:17 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com) wrote:
: I have a Logan 11" lathe.  My most recent project was to put
: a block of steel on the cross slide and a #5 center drill in
: the head chuck.  I then fed the steel into the drill.  It did
: drill, but the cross slide vibrated quite a bit.  I suspect
: that the nature of center drills had something to do with it.
: I found that the BACK of the carriage actually was moving up
: and down, and was pumping oil in and out of the gap.

: I took that as a recommendation to tighten the back gibs.
: When I did this a little bit, it stopped wiggling there, but
: now the carriage moves much stiffer.  It is so stiff that the
: friction clutch for the cross feed has a hard time moving it
: even without tool contact!  I can adjust the clutch to work,
: but it is quite tight.  Too tight?  How tight is right?  It
: has to be tight to make a good cut, right?  I would like to
: have the best accuracy that I can for normal spindle turning.
: I only tightened those two screws a smidgen, perhaps 1/16 turn.

You adjusted the screws on the outside back of the carriage?
I'm not really familiar with the Logan, but you may have tightened
the WRONG thing.  There is also a guide (or some similar terminology)
that prevents the carriage from lifting UP off the bed, which is
what you suggested when you said it was moving 'up and down'.
Most lathes have a steel plate which rides under a lip on the bed,
and it is often spaced with very thin shims.  What you need to do
is put the rear gib back to where it was before, and investigate
how the vertical gib clearance is set, and perhaps pull one of the
thinnest shims out of the stack.  This will compensate for wear
on the top of the bed and the bottom of the carriage.  The easiest
test is with a dial indicator mounted on the bed (with magnetic
mount), and reading from a flat place on the carriage, ie. the
cross-slide ways.  Just lift up with your hands on the carriage, and
observe the indicator.  A gradual movement of a few thousandths
may indicate bed flexing and lube squeezing out of the gib-bed
gap, but sudden jumping of the indicator shows open clearance
between the vertical gib and bottom of the bed.  Tighten this
clearance in small steps (.0005 to .002" steps, max, unless the wear
is massive all overe the bed), checking frequently across the whole
length of the bed for a tight spot.  When you find the first tight spot,
you can adjust no further (unless you scrape the tight spot down).
You will need to do this for both the front and back rails of the
bed vs. carriage clearance.  The front usually suffers the greatest wear
due to chip pileup and cutting pressure, but in drilling with a
drill in the chuck, the cutting force lifts the rear of the carriage,
so you see it there first.

					Jon



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:04:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34943 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: A Mandrel trick
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <51jofr$n4g@acme.sb.west.net>  
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:23:48 GMT
Lines: 45


Well Ed, you just discovered an old machinists trick!  I don't smoke, but 
there is always a package of cigarete papers in my tool chest.  They make 
great temporary shims, thinner than most tissue.  If drills & reamers 
slip in a morse taper, a piece of computer paper will protect the bore, 
and resist the slipping.  Most paper is between .003" and .004".



In a previous article, steamer@west.net (Edward Haas) says:

>!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
>From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: A Mandrel trick
>Date: 16 Sep 1996 07:33:31 -0700
>Organization: West.Net Communications
>Lines: 16
>Message-ID: <51jofr$n4g@acme.sb.west.net>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: acme.sb.west.net
>NNTP-Posting-User: steamer
>X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950824BETA PL0]
>
>	Howdy, all!
>	I'm remaking the "big end bearings" for my Stuart Swan steam 
>engine. These are bronze split bushings which are machined all over and 
>the final operation involves clamping them to a mandrel to turn the o.d.
>	Well, naturally the mandrel I turned for the job was too close to 
>the right dimension and the parts wouldn't clamp securely. I didn't want 
>to make another mandrel, so I got out my best pair of tin snips and cut a 
>strip of Kleenex, wrapped it onto the mandrel, clamped on the parts and 
>away I went: .020" deep cuts: no problemo and I didn't mark up the 
>finished i.d. either.
>-- 
>	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	-Hacking the "trailing 	
>	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	edge" of technology...
>	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
>		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
>	
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From burt@rocler.qc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:04:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34944 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news3.buffnet.net!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!news.bellglobal.com!news
From: burt lang <burt@rocler.qc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:19:30 +0000
Organization: ve2bmq
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <324004F2.7E19@rocler.qc.ca>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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To: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com>

Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
> 
>         1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
>         oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
>         that. :)
> 
> Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."

If a pint is a pound how come a US Gallon (8 pints) of water weighs
8.26xx pounds????????  A pint (US) is 16 fl oz (US) but I think you will
find that 1 fl oz (US) of water does NOT weigh 1 oz avoirpois.

Just to confuse matters :  1 In (US) is not equal to 1 in (brit).

Burt>>>



From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34945 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news.supernet.net!news-out.microserve.net!news-in.microserve.net!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Carbide toolholders
Date: 18 Sep 1996 23:23:47 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <rich_klopp-1809961625110001@128.18.30.31>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

I want to buy a carbide insert toolholder or two for my Jet 12" lathe. I'm
considering Acra (made by HB Rouse), USA and "Quality Import" copies, and
something similar made by US Borite. I'm thinking that the 3/8" shank size
ought to be about right; it uses 1/4" inside-circle triangular inserts.
These are listed in the MSC catalog and the Rutland Tool catalog.

I'll be using these for garage shop work on carbon steel & aluminum, not
for production work. I have a good Chinese knockoff Aloris toolpost that
makes for a reasonably rigid setup.

Can anyone recommend any one of these over the other? It looks like the
Borite uses somewhat different inserts. Are the inserts widely available?
They don't seem to list them according to industry standard codes. (Where
have I seen an explanation of those codes? They look something like
"TPMG".) I'd hate to buy something that you can't get inserts for 3 years
>from  now. Can I use these same inserts in somebody's boring bar?

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Rich Klopp


From TDavis@Aug.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:50 EDT 1996
Article: 34946 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!news.rmii.com!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!ns2.southeast.net!ts3-19.aug.com!TDavis
From: Tipper Davis <TDavis@Aug.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ONLINE ART SITE AND ARTISTS DIRECTORY METAL SCUPLTURS
Date: 17 Sep 1996 22:04:08 GMT
Organization: Atlantis Arts
Lines: 3
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51n78o$df9@ns2.southeast.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ts3-19.aug.com
X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2
X-XXMessage-ID: <AE64991C9E074F6C@ts3-19.aug.com>
X-XXDate: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 23:06:20 GMT

http://www.online-arts.com the webs newest art/artists/
art services directory and gallery
artists "mini homepages/portfolios" and more.


From james.askew@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:51 EDT 1996
Article: 34947 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:52:04 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Message-ID: <323F8E04.1CA2@worldnet.att.net>
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Dan Pfanenstiel wrote:
> 
> Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of
> copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and
> my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Dan   dpfan@ix.netcom.com

MSC has it.  Page 2044 in the new catalog. Up to .250 thickness.

Jim


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:53 EDT 1996
Article: 34948 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: FS B&S taper reamers
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 17:08:23 GMT
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For sale:

Brown and Sharpe Finishing Reamers
#7, 8, 9, 10, 11
in good condition

$100 for the set plus UPS or best offer


-- 
Steven O. Smith
6333 East Hwy 402
Loveland, CO 80537
(970)225-7576 (weekdays)
(970)663-1513 (evenings)
steve@cc.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:54 EDT 1996
Article: 34949 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Baked on finishes
Date: 17 Sep 1996 14:11:24 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51mbic$4rl@news1.svc>
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We have a guy in the Bay Area Engine Modelers that regularly bakes the enamel finish 
on his engines.  He grabs just about any old enamel and paints the engine.  Then, 
after it is dry, he puts it in the oven at around 350 degrees F.  The enamel flattens 
out, becomes very glossy, very hard, and, for the surprise, changes color.

Not blue to red but red to maroon, etc.  That type of color change.  

However, the finish is bullet proof.

Another approach is to use enamel with a catalyst that will cure the paint in 24 hours 
so that battery acid will not touch it.  Very glossy finish.

Warning.  The catalyst is dangerous to breath.  Automotive refinishers use a supplied 
air mask and a full body suit to spray this stuff in a booth.  Course yours truly has 
been known to spray it with just a respirator when outdoors.  Now I consider this 
terminally stupid after understanding the dangers to the lungs.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From gedwards@onramp.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:55 EDT 1996
Article: 34950 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.icanect.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stuart Turner Question
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 09:00:40 -0500
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 7
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To: Edward Haas <steamer@west.net>

The Fax number on the back of their catalog is:

01481 47912

Their telephone number is:  01481 49515

George


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:04:56 EDT 1996
Article: 34951 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thanks!
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:22:37 -0500
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Thanks to all who replied to my post on craftsman/atlas lathe parts 
last week.
Got hold of Dave Fichen at Meridian Machinery,he was able to supply all
the parts I needed for a very reasonable price,very helpful and sent the 
parts out right away.Thanks Dave!!!
 I now have a very nice,fully operational 6" Craftsman lathe for the
measly price of $306.50!! What a deal!!
We're throwing chips now!!
Thanks all!!
  Tom


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:04:57 EDT 1996
Article: 34952 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 17 Sep 1996 22:41:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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To: RMWEPP@ccmail.exe

Roger, you should be able to contact Keller Industries at:

Rt. 1, Box 184
Hollandale, MN
        56045

Phone: 507-889-3416  or 800-338-1295

Regards,

Chuck




From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:04:58 EDT 1996
Article: 34953 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 20:12:31 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201049.26401A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb.di <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51mo57$sd@aphex.direct.ca> <wlbrownDxw7EC.F8H@netcom.com>
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, William L. Brown Jr. wrote:

> Somebody (for whatever reason!) wrote:
> > I think however if you wish to continue with the  "inch-lb-sec system",
> > new hybrid units  called the Kilo-gallon and Mega-gallon should be
> > proposed.
>
> Actually, in that range we use acrefeet.
>
And in between we use barrels and hogsheads.
		Cheers,



From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Fri Sep 27 16:04:59 EDT 1996
Article: 34954 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.emf.net!imci3!imci5!imci4!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!alph02.triumf.ca!shoppa
From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Subject: Re: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
Date: 14 Sep 1996 05:16:40 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <51df3o$de4@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
References: <51c27l$5hr@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <3239cafa.173064500@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <3239cafa.173064500@news.islandnet.com>,
Jens <psh@islandnet.com> wrote:
>shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa) wrote:
>>Anyone care to recommend any retail metal/hardware suppliers in
>>Vancouver BC? 
>
>You are asking for three seperate suppliers here ...

Maybe.  But most of the places I've lived in the US had a nearby
"full-line" hardware store that would stock all of the items
I mentioned.

>First of all as far as hardware stores are concerned, you can't do
>better than Home Depot.

Gack!  That's not a hardware store - that's a home improvement
center!  In my opinion, there is a difference.  Of course, in
my opinion, a "hardware store" is where you walk up to the
counter, tell they guy you need a half-dozen #264 Viton O-rings,
a M12x1.75 tap, and some #6-32 x 1" nylon screws
phillips head, and he goes back through the stock and gets
what you need.  At Home Depot they had *no* O-rings larger
than 1.5" in diameter, no metric taps, and no nylon hardware.
A "real" hardware store would have these.  Perhaps I was spoiled
by living just a couple blocks away from Berg's hardware while
I was in Pasadena!

The rest of your suggestions - AJ Forsyth, Wilkinson Steel,
and Acklands - are appreciated.  I'll give them a try (though
I kind of doubt I'll find any of them open on a weekend - or
will I?)

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From lee1959@delphi.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:00 EDT 1996
Article: 34955 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!juniper.cis.uab.edu!maze.dpo.uab.edu!info.uah.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!delphi.com!usenet
From: Lee Evans <lee1959@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: blade2.jpg
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 21:46:56 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
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Message-ID: <J7GR8KA.lee1959@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com

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From bairdo@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:01 EDT 1996
Article: 34956 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!orl-fl5-19.ix.netcom.com!user
From: bairdo@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:56:36 -0400
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <bairdo-1809961556370001@orl-fl5-19.ix.netcom.com>
References: <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> <51n6k5$1su@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: orl-fl5-19.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Sep 18 12:57:08 PM PDT 1996

In article <51n6k5$1su@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>,
mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) wrote:

> In <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> Richard Immel <rimmel@etcard.com> writes:
> 
> >
> >I've an old (1946) South Bend lathe with horrendous
> >chatter on long work pieces. <snip>
> 
> Richard,

There is an outfit that sells very high quality castings: 

   Metal Lathe Associates
   Andy Lofquist
   814-234-3543

Has a first class casting kit from which you can make a steady rest for
the 9" SB.  Cost of the castings is +/- $40.  I just machined one.  First
class.  

You will need some help from someone with a mill if you don't have one.

Best of luck.

Jim Baird


From ase@seanet.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:02 EDT 1996
Article: 34957 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.seanet.com!usenet
From: "Allen Evenson" <ase@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Best Language-based CAM  (APT) system
Date: 19 Sep 1996 07:19:56 GMT
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
Lines: 75
Message-ID: <01bba5f9$e28aaf40$454ab6cc@the-evensons>
References: <323FC955.1D06@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ase.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155



Todd Muscat <rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<323FC955.1D06@ix.netcom.com>...
> Hi,
> I was wondering what the group felt are the best CAM products out there
on 
> the PC platform?  MasterCAM, CAMAX, etc.?  What I really need is a system

> that can *ALSO* be language based - which, i guess is to say 'APT-based'.
 
> I realize that for some reason "APT" is now a dirty word in this industry

> (i guess largely due to all these bubble-gum point-&-click CAM systems 
> nowadays:-).  Most vendors choose to call what is 98.7% APT, something
else 
> - like "NCL".
> Cheers
> Todd
> 
> 

I Have used 4 cam systems in the last 5 years, here's my humble opionion of
each:

1)  "JCS"  3 + limited 5-Axis  PC-based SourceFile+Post = Machine File
program
	plusses: macros, simple geo creation, fast 2d
            minuses: no real time graphics, limited surfaces, documentation
Have used this off and on since 1988, local based product. Cheap!

2) smart CAM (last dos version) 5?  3 axis PC-based Point and click
(no-source file)
           plusses:  Layer/Tool management,toolbox approach, good 3d
           minuses: viewing features,  database operations
Used from '93 early '94

3) Surtcam V6.0 : 2-5 Axis PC-based Point and click (no-source file)
          plusses: Dynamic viewing toolbar, 2-3 axis cutting routines are
quick.
          minuses: weak Post-processors (esp. 5-axis), non associative
tool-geometry.

4) NCL V8.3:  2-5 Axis Unix-base APT+Graphics model (and I mean GOOD
graphics)
         plusses: strong Post processors, good graphics, associativity
         minuses: geometry trimming, model anylization features.

For What It's worth,  I'm a 5-axis programmer currently using a 5 month old
Silicon Graphics Indy R5000 with NCL V8.3 and Verimatrix (3d solid modeling
package). We switched from
Surfcam because of the Associativity issue.  NCL is like APT with Surfcam's
graphics (close)
. Where I work we couldn't live with having to change a 5-axis program when
a tool diameter changed .008". I like the APT programming model (less
section I and II). I come from a BASIC and C++ programming background.. The
ability to write, loops, macros, and completely control the position of the
tool regardless of its diameter and form (if i do it right ..lot's of
variables)
gives the "part program" I write a lot of flexibility.  Instead of trying
to remeber what sequence of clicks I made and how exactly I set all the
options in the dialog boxes, I open a source file in NCL and step thru
it/and or edit it (watching dynamic tool motion) and fix or improve the
process.

							Allen E.
  							MIW Aerospace
							Kent, WA


"
         	


Ran from '92 to early '94.


From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:03 EDT 1996
Article: 34958 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!saluki-news.wham.siu.edu!reliant!john
From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:04:27 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960918150400.484c-100000@reliant>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51khpg$djt@news-2.csn.net> <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960917141146.337K-100000@reliant> <DxwF68.80n@bbxrbk.basis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: reliant.cwis.siu.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
X-Sender: john@reliant
In-Reply-To: <DxwF68.80n@bbxrbk.basis.com> 

On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, Russ Kepler wrote:

> In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960917141146.337K-100000@reliant>,
> John R. Johnson <john@siu.edu> wrote:
> >Actually, when I was in Great Britain a few years ago, I noticed that
> >a Pint generally was a Pound.  Then the last time I was there it had
> >gone up to a pound 30 or even in some pubs a pound 80!
> 
> A couple of weeks ago it was 2 Pounds/pint.  Makes you want to swear
> off drinking, almost.
> 
Either that, or start brewing your own from Beer Kits!

John



From lee1959@delphi.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:05 EDT 1996
Article: 34959 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cs.utk.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!delphi.com!usenet
From: Lee Evans <lee1959@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: blade1.jpg
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 21:46:09 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 413
Message-ID: <JZORkSJ.lee1959@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com

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From saustin@northnet.org Fri Sep 27 16:05:06 EDT 1996
Article: 34960 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!library.clarkson.edu!zappa.northnet.org!usenet
From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Secrets of a real smooth turned finish ??
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 22:41:23 -0400
Organization: NorthNet
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <323A1B53.31670EB2@northnet.org>
References: <50ps8s$sbh@lemon.easynet.co.uk> <518g2p$eq3@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <5196gt$429@tin.monsanto.com> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960912172345.7820B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <DxoH0y.3zy@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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The Machinerys Handbook has a nice section on grinding thread
tools.  It gives all the formulas for culculating the helix of
the tread and effective relief angles.  This is a good
introduction to setting up compound angles.  If the top of the
treading tool is not flat and the trailing edge makes any cut,
then the geometry of the tread will not be correct.  A tread has
a V form parallel with the axis.  The form of the thread at the
intersection of a helix and an inclined plane off center is a
very complex curve.  A top raked tool gives a nice finish on the
leading edge but guess which edge takes the load 90% of the time?

Steve A.


From tmooney@intac.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:07 EDT 1996
Article: 34961 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ted Mooney <tmooney@intac.com>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:48:33 -0400
Organization: www.finishing.com
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <32417961.3533@intac.com>
References: <51ok9r$7ur@news.knoware.nl> <tcarter.56.00500698@csir.co.za>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8693 rec.crafts.metalworking:34961

Tim Carter wrote:
> 
> In article <51ok9r$7ur@news.knoware.nl> C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> writes:
> >From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
> >Subject: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
> >Date: 18 Sep 1996 10:52:43 GMT
> 
> >Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
> >as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
> >But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
> >Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
> >I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
> >in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
> 
> >Klaas
> 
> You're quite right, the area around the weld will corrode easily, because the
> heat of welding has vapourised the protecting zinc. The fumes you get with
> welding over galvanising are the zing floating away.
> 
> Zinc-rich paint works well, not as good as the original hot-dipped zinc, but a
> lot easier to apply. It doesn't last as long as the HD zinc either.
> 
> regards
> 
> tim
> 
> "My opinions are my own, and other usual disclaimers."


For critical applications it is possible to brush electoplate zinc onto 
the area, making it the equal of the original galvanized surface. But I 
certainly agree that this is much harder to do than just using zinc-rich 
paint. It would be rarely justified.

-- Ted Mooney
------------
Visit 'the home page of the finishing industry'
http://www.finishing.com
------------


From as951@lafn.org Fri Sep 27 16:05:08 EDT 1996
Article: 34962 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.genuity.net!news.lafn.org!lafn.org!lafn.org!as951
From: as951@lafn.org (George Arndt)
Subject: Robling collet closer needed
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Message-ID: <1996Sep17.123250.29923@lafn.org>
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Reply-To: as951@lafn.org (George Arndt)
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:32:50 GMT
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My neighbor bought a beautiful (and virtually unused) Robling lathe, Model 
635, but the company has apparently gone out of business. So far my 
inquiries for him have met with no success. Does anyone have a 
suggestion for a source? 

Thanks in advance.

George Arndt
as951@lafn.org



From JIM_MCGILL@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:09 EDT 1996
Article: 34963 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hpbs2500.boi.hp.com!news
From: Jim McGill <JIM_MCGILL@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where can we find LARGE Acme-threaded shaft &/or nut?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:28:02 -0700
Organization: HP
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <323EC382.4FC5@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com>
References: <511ae8$aah@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com> <51icas$t96@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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I knew I'd seen large Acme threaded shafts around somewhere, and on the
way to work this morning I walked past a metal scaffolding and
remembered where. They use Acme threaded shafts for leveling scaffolds
and portable concert stages. Check with your local scaffold rental
place  and you should be able to get as much as you want. I doubt that
they're made to any kind of close tolerances, but they are Acme and
they're produced in huge numbers so they should be (relatively) cheap. 

Mac


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:10 EDT 1996
Article: 34964 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 21:00:41 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 52
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References: <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
writes: 

>
>Dave,
>
>A couple of questions, which I hope you can answer:
>
>#1 - I understand these chucks are no longer made by Jacobs, or anyone
>else.  Is this true? Any idea why?
>
>#2 - After talking with some other dealers, it seems these are VERY
>popular. I am told by some folks that they get $100 per each, and as
>soon as they come in, there sold.  If this runout can be such a
problem,
>why are they so popular?
>
>#3 - Do you think there is a market for these chucks today?
> 
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/19/96 07:59
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>
Scott,

I recently sold a 1-1/2"x8thd Jacobs headstock chuck to a guy in
Louisianna. He called Jacobs and was given the name of the Manufacturer
that had taken over that line of products. He then called that
manufacturer and found out that they hadn't made it in years and were
no help at all as far as parts or repair. I know of no other company
that makes a simillar product. The reason Jacobs stopped making them is
probably that they found it more profitable and less time consuming to
deal with industry rather than hobbyists- the reason most machinery
dealers hate to deal with hobbyists.
 I believe that they are popular (I sell them as quick as I get them)
because they are essentially a multi-size collet, they are able to hold
standard sized stock as well as decimal sizes, metric,(or any round
stock within their range), and hex stock without having to buy dozens
of collets. For 100 bucks, you can save a fortune in hard to find and
usually expensive collets.
 I think that there would be a market for them among the many folks
that own Lathes with less than 5C capacity. Whether or not it would be
cost effective to manufacture a quality chuck is a question best
answered by a manufacturer.
Regards
Dave Ficken 
Meridian Machinery
http://hre.com/meridian


From muybean@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:11 EDT 1996
Article: 34965 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tom bean <"muybean@worldnet.att.net"@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: opinions re logan or bridgrport
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:09:07 -0500
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would like advice on the value of a logan model#825 lathe (10"x30") i'm 
a complete novice without a clue. it is in reasonable condition and 
includes a rest and a small number of tools. would this be a sensible 
lathe to learn with? would a bridgeport of similar size cost as much? 
also, what name brand mill\drill with a single phase motor would be 
worth looking for? thanks for the help.



From therbert@accesscomm.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:13 EDT 1996
Article: 34966 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: therbert@accesscomm.net (Tom Herbert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lathe Headstock Bearings
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:49:50 GMT
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I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe of about 1960's vintage.  After
tightening every nut, bolt and belt on the machine, I was still
getting a strange set of toolmarks on each turned piece.  They are
diagonal hills and valleys that cross the regular toolmarks at about
30 degrees.

After doing everything else that I and all of my machinery-inclined
friends could think of to do, I finally took the headstock apart, and
cleaned the bearings.  Then I noticed that the front bearing (closest
to the chuck) had evidently overheated at some point in the past;
both the inner and outer races had heat discoloration rings, and there
was baked-on oil on the ends of the rollers.  There was also paint
chips in both of the bearings from the restoration that was done to
the lathe before I bought it.

After reassembly, the lathe runs much more quietly than it did before,
but still makes these strange toolmarks--although admittedly not as
pronounced as before.

I would like to replace the bearings on the spindle, but there are two
classes of bearings available, standard and class 3.  The standard
bearings are about $98.00 for the four pieces (2 cones and 2 outer
races), and the class 3 are about $280.00.

Does anyone know what type of bearings (what class) are generally in a
lathe headstock?  I would obviously prefer to spend less money if the
class 3 bearings will not add anything to the lathe.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Tom Herbert
therbert@accesscomm.net



From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:14 EDT 1996
Article: 34967 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 06:59:23 -0700
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rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden) wrote:

>  "We don't ship anything into Canada, including catalogs," the 
>receptionist said.
>  "Why not?" I asked.
>  "Because it is our policy."
>  "But what is the reason for the policy?"
>  "The reason for our policy is that it is our policy."

Been there, done that .....

>  In their ads in the back of HSM, they list a PO Box in Bellingham as 
>their western address.  Does anyone know the street address, and if so, is 
>it possible to stop in and get a catalog there?  

When I went down there, I asked at a highway tourist information
center shortly after border where 1821 Valencia street was. Oh, she
said, you are going to Grizzly Imports .... my jaw dropped several
inches but sure enough, she knew what I was talking about.
Anyway, take exit 254 from I5 (Iowa Street) up to Valencia Street,
turn right and about 2 blocks down on the right you'l see it. Dont let
the residential neighborhood throw you off (it did for me).
Monday to Friday, 8:30 - 5:00. They have a nice big walk-in showroom
with a counter sales desk. Catalogs are 'aplenty.

Funny thing is that there is also an outfit called 'Gorilla and Sons'
in the same location (sister company ??) selling outdoor stuff. The
catalog sits right next to the Grizzly catalog. .....
AND they are happy to ship to Canada ........ go figure ...
(Or in other words Grizzley must have a distribution agreement in
Canada or the Manufacturer - which might not be Grizzley - has an
agreement with someone in Canada)

Jens
(Victoria, BC)


From luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34968 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Stewart <luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: emco maier (was Well I bought a lathe....)
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 13:19:37 -0400
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Steve Jasik wrote:

(about Emco Maier spare parts)
> 
> Get them quick, the word I got at IMTS from the VP at Republic Lagun is
> that they are about to go bankrupt unless they raise cash soon.
> The VP said that they had made offers to many firms and are looking for money.
...
> It is a pity as they have a nice line of machinery.

They do have nice machinery. I have a Compact-8, and have always
wanted to purchase a compact 10 and a FB-2 mill. I have looked
over many machinery showrooms, and their new equipment is top
notch, but expensive.

I must admit that I find it a bit depressing; once again people
choose price over "quality". Someone recently posted that Frank
Maclean advocates the far-eastern mills, and while he does, he
does not make a lot of non-machinery items, so his "hobby" is
in the making and restoring of machines, not using them as a tool
to build something else.  (He'd love his arboga mill back again,
though)

There is a difference. I choose to build model steam locomotives,
not machine tools. Choose Emco, Myford, or whatever, and you are
guaranteed good products. Choose some of the others, and I am not
so sure...

Obviously, the machining world is deciding that the increasing
dependability of far-eastern tooling outweighs the advantages
of buying "the best". Kind of sad, in my mind.

John Stewart
luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:15 EDT 1996
Article: 34969 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
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I just sold a mill-drill (RF-30, Rong-Fu) because I wasn't happy with
it. I don't know a lot about the type of work you do. Caveats aside,
here's my opinion.

As you imply, there are risks to both paths. There are certainly scary
stories about buying imports, even from companies like Jet. I have to
assume that these are in the minority, and you only hear the horror
stories.

There are also risks buying used machinery. I would hope that anyone
planning the type of projects you are Phil would have plenty of
commonsense and avoid most of these problems. If you have zero
knowledge, there are two approaches that work: 1. go look at machines.
DO NOT BUY. Act like you are going to buy, and educate yourself. Only
look at machines that the owners will demo for you. Watch how it cuts.
After seeing a few, you'll develop a good feeling for what is ok and
what is just wrong or broken. 2. Join a local machine tool club, make
friends there, and get some help looking at machines.

As you may have guessed, I'm a big fan of the used approach. 

My problems with mill-drills:
The machine does exactly what it is claimed to do, i.e. light milling.
You can drill one inch holes with it, but no bigger (does this interfere
with you porting/valve work?). You can run a flycutter for surfacing,
but only if you keep the cut diameter small, like one inch. Is this
going to flatten heads fast enough for you? I found that the mill drill
had no where near the rigidity I wanted. The 2 HP motor was a joke, as
there was absolutely no way to load the motor enough to matter--chatter
took over far in advance of the motor loading. Light weight machines,
exactly as advertised. Nice if light milling is all you are doing, but I
bet you aren't happy with it. Find one in a used machine tool store and
try it out!

Phillip DeBrito wrote:
> 
> I am considering buying a JET JMD-18PF Mill/Drill. My intentions are to
> do some auto head refurbishing (decking, valve jobs/porting, valve guide
> replacement, block decking and honing), woodworking, and general
> metalworking hobbying. (perhaps a little machine work jobs on the side
> too).
> 
> If anyone has any first or second hand experience with JET or JET mills,
> please, post it.  I'm really tired of buying crap. And I'm really scared
> of buying an older mill, because I have ZERO knowledge of what is good
> and what I have to spend double what I paid to refurbish it.
> 
> Thanks Ahead of Time!
> 
> Phil DeBrito
> Beginner At Large

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From sford@nettally.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:16 EDT 1996
Article: 34970 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Stephen L. Ford" <sford@nettally.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CEBORA  POCKET MIG WELDER PARTS SOURCE
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:43:07 -0400
Organization: CMDS News machine
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I have a Cebora mig welder, called a pocket mig item 883/p made in
Bologlia Italy, in which I am in need of a new feeder tube and maybe a
drive wheel.  Could anybody give me some help on finding a supplier.
Please answer on my e-mail

sford@nettally.com

thanks:  Stephen




From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:18 EDT 1996
Article: 34971 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:17:41 -0700
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dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner) wrote:

>In article <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) says:
>>
>>
>>Gentlemen, gentlemen! What is all this fuss about measurement? Such
>>trivia makes life so much more complicated. Since I subscribed to the
>>TLAR method, I've had no sleepless nights trying to convert bleats
>>to milliburps or back. The TLAR method (That Looks About Right) not
>>only saves time, but materials, too, as one no longer suffers holes
>>worn through the trousers from rulers or tapes poking out. 
>>
>>If I need a piece of hose, I simply hold my arms out and check the
>>length. At the hardware store, I hold my arms out again, and the clerk
>>puls out the required length. He can figure the price... that's his
>>job! Visits to the lumbaryard are similarly easy. All lumber comes in
>>standard sizes, so it is easy to select a piece that will fit. Cutting
>>to length is done by holding the board up to its location, marking
>>with a pencil and making the cut. To turn a shaft to fit a hole: Put
>>shaft in lathe. Turn it. Try it in the hole. If too big, file it down,
>>or use emery paper or a hammer. That's what they're made for!  If it's


>I see you smiling Greg.

Hey, I have lived by that methods for many years - it works !!!
Don't knock it til you tried it.

(And I am not smiling)

PS.: I am now starting to measure things and it's a real pain .....

Jens


From stevec@hal-pc.org Fri Sep 27 16:05:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34972 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stevec@hal-pc.org (stevec)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbars
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 05:20:48 GMT
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Its probably new production to earn American dollars.      Why?   It
sells.

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:35:50, RFahey2781@gnn.com (Robert Fahey) wrote:

>Supposedly the Russians had about 80% of the world's supply 
>of Ti. Maybe they made crowbars out of it because it was 
>cheap and strong and lite.
>



From cwmead@top.monad.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:19 EDT 1996
Article: 34973 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Curtis W. Mead" <cwmead@top.monad.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 30" sheetmetal machine question
Date: 19 Sep 1996 02:03:09 GMT
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------=_NextPart_000_01BBA5AC.EBC2F100
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hey-
Is there anyone out there with experience with a 30" combination sheetmetal
machine, shear,brake and roll.  One of the used machinery dealers i talked
to today said they are junk because they don't roll evenly , the won't bend
a crisp 90 degree, and they roll the edge when they shear.  Can they really
be that bad?  Is $415 a good price for an enco?  
-- 
Curtis W. Mead
cwmead@top.monad.net
http://top.monad.net/~cwmead
------=_NextPart_000_01BBA5AC.EBC2F100
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D4 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">hey-<br>Is there anyone out there with =
experience with a 30&quot; combination sheetmetal machine, shear,brake =
and roll. &nbsp;One of the used machinery dealers i talked to today said =
they are junk because they don't roll evenly , the won't bend a crisp 90 =
degree, and they roll the edge when they shear. &nbsp;Can they really be =
that bad? &nbsp;Is $415 a good price for an enco? &nbsp;<br>-- =
<br>Curtis W. Mead<br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>cwmead@top.monad.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>http://top.monad.net/~cwmead</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"></p>
</font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_01BBA5AC.EBC2F100--



From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:21 EDT 1996
Article: 34974 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bending die question
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:54:24 GMT
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I have to design a bending die for a friend. The die
must put a 1/2" radius u bend in the bar while the
rest of the bar remains flat. He must be able to do
this anywhere along the length of a 2" wide, 3/16"
thick HRS. This is for a stair railing. the extra radius'
on both sides of the U bend are 1/4" about. How do
you figure the psi required for such a U bend, all my die books
only give figures for shear.The material will not be constrained at either end 
of the die, so that elastic deformation is kept to a minimum.
help!! thanks!


From efeist@northcoast.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:22 EDT 1996
Article: 34975 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: efeist@northcoast.com (P.Feist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Half-Reamer, Info Needed!
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:30:55 -0700
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Hi; 

   I'm looking for information on how to make a "Half-Reamer". A
Half-Reamer is a reamer (naturally..) that is made with only one "Flute".
It is simply a cylinder of the appropriate taper or shape with half of its
diameter removed to provide a cutting edge.
   I had a chance to examine a half reamer several years ago, but didn't
have any background on cutting tool geometry, releif angles, etc. Now that
I do, I don't know how the thing was relieved to cut!
   BTW, Machinery's Handbook doesn't even mention this type of reamer.
   I need to make a cheap, easy rifle chambering reamer for a one-off
project, and thought this might be the way to go.
   Any information or *references* would be greatly appreciated, with
profuse thanks!


Regards
Paul Feist
Paladin Gun Repair
efeist@northcoast.com


From vcatalfo@wwonline.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:23 EDT 1996
Article: 34976 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vcatalfo@wwonline.com (Vince Catalfo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding lead
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 10:39:34 -0400
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In article <32375148.150836608@santaclara01.news.internex.net> 
garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) writes:
>On Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:19:32 GMT, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk 
(Andy
>Dingley) wrote:
>
>>Any advice on welding lead ?  It's lead sheet, used to make shaped
>>roof flashing panels. My first thought was to make wiped solder
>>joints, using plumber's solder  (I can do this), but I'm told that
>>lead can be welded quite easily with an oxy-acetylene torch.  (sounds
>>a little odd IMHO)
>
>Mind you, I NEVER heard of OxAc being used on lead (very low melting
>point), but one BIG BIG caution with flame temperatures that high is the
>real danger of atomizing the lead, and breathing it in air.
>
>Garfield
You can weld lead, first you have to clean it if its grey or charcoal 
colored. I use a steel or brass brush, use it lightly to remove the 
oxide coat on the lead. Steel wool works good to. I use regulat zinc 
chloride paste and then solder away with a 300w soldering iron. A blow 
torch etc will create an oxide coating again which prevents the lead 
>from  sticking together, especially old lead. If you have difficulty you 
can also use the soldering iron in a scrapping motion to remove the 
oxide coating and pudle the lead.


From babcock@infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:25 EDT 1996
Article: 34977 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:55:43 +1000
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In article <323F8E04.1CA2@worldnet.att.net> James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:52:04 -0700

>Dan Pfanenstiel wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of
>> copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and
>> my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.
>> 
>> Dan   dpfan@ix.netcom.com

>MSC has it.  Page 2044 in the new catalog. Up to .250 thickness.

>Jim

Saw some recently at a boat supply store.  It's used on sailboats for a hull 
grounding plate.

Tom


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:26 EDT 1996
Article: 34978 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8695 rec.crafts.metalworking:34978

Ted Mooney wrote:
> 
> Tim Carter wrote:

> > Zinc-rich paint works well, not as good as the original hot-dipped zinc, but a
> > lot easier to apply. It doesn't last as long as the HD zinc either.
 
> For critical applications it is possible to brush electoplate zinc onto
> the area, making it the equal of the original galvanized surface. But I
> certainly agree that this is much harder to do than just using zinc-rich
> paint. It would be rarely justified.
> 
> -- Ted Mooney

What I'm familiar with is spray galvanizing. Comes in a spray can,
basically zinc dust with an epoxy binder. What is zinc rich paint? Is
this what makes up Rustoleum? Where do I get zinc rich paint (esp. in
colors)?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk Fri Sep 27 16:05:27 EDT 1996
Article: 34979 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Jones <jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Stuart Turner Question
Sender: news@cf.ac.uk (Usenet News user)
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Edward Haas wrote:
> 
>         Howdy, all; I seem to have 2 different FAX numbers for them and I
> don't know which one is right. Can someone steer me straight, so I don't
> waste time FAXing to limbo-land??
>         Is it:  011-44-1932-226738
>         -or-:   011-44-1481-47912

Ed, the correct number is 011 44 1481 47912 for Stuart Models.

The other number is for Bruce Engineering (near London) who has a vast collection 
of stuff from Stuart Turner's Henley shop when it closed and is also one the the 
bigger suppliers of their kits in the UK.

Hope that helps. ( I think I sent you the first number when you were looking for 
parts for the Swan).

Mike Jones
(Cardiff)


From 103437.124@CompuServe.COM Fri Sep 27 16:05:28 EDT 1996
Article: 34980 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Sandi <103437.124@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: welding aluminum???
Date: 19 Sep 1996 01:37:31 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
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Message-ID: <51q84r$s2k$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>

Please help me!!  I am looking for any information I can find on
welding aluminum, ie. what kind of welder, etc........Just all the 
"How to" when it comes to welding aluminum.
Any help or advice on how to, or where to look would be greatly 
appreciated!
Tom
103437.124@compuserve.com  OR chopper.nut@juno.com


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34981 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 20:23:34 GMT
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In article <51rjb4$cvc@sjx-ixn5.ix.netcom.com>, jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey) says:
>
>In <51pgnu$728@aphex.direct.ca> dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner) writes: 
>
>>inch system Canada and the US could indeed trade with each other. The
>>problem is that there is a larger world out there that only uses
>metric.
>>Nobody is going to pull your head out of the sand. You'll have to do
>that
>>yourself. 
>>*****************************************************************
>
>Well for what it's worth, this is really a non issue in my opinion.
>
>less than 30 years ago, if you had to do a complex math problem, you
>either used a slide rule or a lot of paper and time consuming
>calculations. The advent of the electronic calculator eliminated the
>pen and paper aspect. Complex Trig, geometry, and analysis is now
>available by punching a couple of keys and reading the result. ( To the
>detriment of a full understanding of the process) People now simply
>memorize or keep handy the formulae for entry into the machine rather
>than KNOWING how to work out the problem.
>
>Similarly, with Digital readouts becoming commonplace in even the
>smallest shops, conversion to metric is accomplished at the touch of a
>button. If the print calls for metric dimension you set the machine to
>metric mode. If yolu ahve to do the conversion, you enter the numbers
>in "English" and hit the "convert" button and Voila!
>
>We have developed a generation of young people who can do incredibly
>complex math without knowing how to add or subtract. Amazing!
>
>Jim Harvey
>jim@hre.com
>http://hre.com/

Dal Wagner replies:

Jim I have to agree with many of your observations.

I have often looked at the situation from your perspective and to this
day I can't say if the youngsters are being short changed or are far 
ahead of us.
I have done all of the things you mentioned including using that slide 
rule. I quickly however saw the benifit of a calculator. My first
calculator was a Texas Instrument . It cost me $124.00 . It could add,
multiply and divide. That was it. A calculator of the same capacity 
purchased today would cost $1.98 
You can snap the mickey mouse ears off that unit and still use it in most
offices today. 
Because I all ready knew how to add subtract multiply and divide I don't
think I lost too much by taking that uncharted leap toward progress. 
When I recieved a more powerful calculator I was delighted.
After having tried to do some fairly complicated Thermodynamics type
calculations using a slide rule and log book, I knew this new calculator
would not only increase my speed, it would also give me results with
fewer errors. No more "part marks" on an exam because I had 
unfortuneatelylooked upan incorrect value in a table with 1500 bits of 
information.
I then had a try at one of those mechanical computers. We were told
never to divide a number by zero when using these machines. We all tried
it nevertheless and quickly found that the only way to turn if off was
to pull the plug from the wall. This I must confess was an instrument
that was slower than pencil or paper. An invention of the devil!

My son now uses a programable graphics calculator for his calculus
classes. I wish I had that when I went to school. To graphically
put several functions on a calculator and visually see the solving
of 15 simultaneous equations is absolutely impressive. This is giving him
a far more in deapth understanding of these abstract ideas. He 
understands Calculus far better than I do because of this tool.
This calculator isn't even optional. You must have it inorder to take
the course.
Examiners can test over a much broader subject area because students
aren't wasting time adding Logs etc. When I went to school there were
30 questions on the exam. My son gets 150 questions.

I guess only time will tell.

Regards  Dal Wagner




From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:05:29 EDT 1996
Article: 34982 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 19 Sep 1996 17:40:20 GMT
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In article <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

> I used to gap the points in my cars with my thumbnail!  
> 

How crude of you! The correct setting is the thickness of a matchbook
cover. Then you set the static timing with a precision test instrument
made from a tail light socket and two alligator clips.


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:30 EDT 1996
Article: 34983 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 17:57:00 GMT
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In article <51k3g2$8ct@news1.mtholyoke.edu>, wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser) says:

>
>> you`ve 1 minute time.

 Excuse me but don't you  mean 60,000 milliseconds?

D.Wagner


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:32 EDT 1996
Article: 34984 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Headstock Bearings
Date: 17 Sep 1996 18:25:37 GMT
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Tom Herbert (therbert@accesscomm.net) wrote:
: I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe of about 1960's vintage.  After
: tightening every nut, bolt and belt on the machine, I was still
: getting a strange set of toolmarks on each turned piece.  They are
: diagonal hills and valleys that cross the regular toolmarks at about
: 30 degrees.

: After doing everything else that I and all of my machinery-inclined
: friends could think of to do, I finally took the headstock apart, and
: cleaned the bearings.  Then I noticed that the front bearing (closest
: to the chuck) had evidently overheated at some point in the past;
: both the inner and outer races had heat discoloration rings, and there
: was baked-on oil on the ends of the rollers.  There was also paint
: chips in both of the bearings from the restoration that was done to
: the lathe before I bought it.

: After reassembly, the lathe runs much more quietly than it did before,
: but still makes these strange toolmarks--although admittedly not as
: pronounced as before.

: I would like to replace the bearings on the spindle, but there are two
: classes of bearings available, standard and class 3.  The standard
: bearings are about $98.00 for the four pieces (2 cones and 2 outer
: races), and the class 3 are about $280.00.

I replaced the bearings in my 10" Atlas when I got a used roller bearing
headstock to replace the absolutely shot babbit journal headstock it
came with.  After I found out the bearings were only about $30-$38 each
(both pieces) it just seemed the best policy to replace them before all
the reassembly and aligning.  You should check with the local bearing
distributor, ie. IBT, Bearings, Inc. or one of the similar outfits.
They may have the standard bearings at a better price than you can get
it for from Clausing.

Now, the class 3 bearings may be ground to a better TIR tolerance, but
I don't think there is a big difference otherwise.  If you re-grind
your chuck jaws on the machine, then the error caused by the cheaper
bearings may not show up at all.  I waited to regrind my jaws until
the new headstock was i place.  (By the way, I got replacements of the
bearings by exact part number match, but I don't know whether you can get
different accuracy classes in the same part number.)

I have gotten excellent results with the new bearings I got from IBT.
Total cost was something like $72 including taxes, for 2 inner races
with rollers and 2 outer races!

Just one final note - if the races and rollers appear smooth, your surface
finish problem may be inadequate preload, rather than shot bearings.
On the 10", you are supposed to run the lathe for 2-8 hours at 'moderately
high speed' to get the spindle warmed up (it expands .004" or so) and
then tighten the compression nut on the end of the spindle until 'slight
drag' is felt, and then tighten one gear tooth further.  With the spindle
cold, this causes the headstock housing to be under load, pulling outward
on each outer bearing race, and keeping the bearing rollers loaded on the
races.  If the preload is not set right, the spindle will have the loosenenss
to do exactly what you describe.  The preload procedure for the 12" may
be slightly different in the specifics, but is probably similar.
Anyway, it doesn't sound too critical, as they depend on such precise
measurements as 'moderately high speed' and 'slight drag'!

When setting preload on a differential pinon, I've seen specs for using a
torque wrench (in-oz range) to tell when the 'slight drag' is just right.
But they don't get so specific in my Atlas book.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:33 EDT 1996
Article: 34985 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re:Q: Priming Aluminum
Date: 19 Sep 1996 21:12:24 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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DuPont makes variants of their MetalPrep products specifically
for Aluminum. These are cleaners/etchers, not primers. 

Check out your local autobody paint and supply place; they
should have the DuPont stuff as well as good recommendations.
(It won't be cheap, of course.)


From steves@emailaddress.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:34 EDT 1996
Article: 34986 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steve Stallings" <steves@emailaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: steady and follower rest (maybe other goodies) for EMCO  V10P lathe
Date: 19 Sep 1996 13:31:20 GMT
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I know its a long shot, but does anyone know where to find 
new or used steady and/or follower rest for an EMCO V10P lathe. 
Blue Ridge etc. no longer have them. Willing to pay near new 
prices for used items.

I have a steady rest from an unknown machine that could 
be machined to fit, but would rather have the real thing. 

Also interested in other accessories unique to this machine,
e.g. not the same as for the Super 11.  The spindle is the
short taper DIN one with three bolt holes.

Thanks in advance.

Steve Stallings
steves@emailaddress.com



From 100412.1236@CompuServe.COM Fri Sep 27 16:05:35 EDT 1996
Article: 34987 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Haine <100412.1236@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam boats in the UK
Date: 19 Sep 1996 21:26:59 GMT
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Is anyone out there in the UK with information on obtaining castings
for engines for small (up to 25 ft) steam launches, or experience 
building either engines or boats, please?

John Haine


From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:37 EDT 1996
Article: 34988 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 18:21:25 GMT
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ffnet.net>

Distribution: 

Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) wrote:
: to the USA developed standard packages which are based on 0.1 inch
: pin spacing.  What makes it work... it was ridgedly and well designed.
: It really amounts to less than a hill of beans what system is used, 
: as long as people understand it, and use it the same way.  
I don't think that too many of the new chips are this way though so th
eboard layout guys have a mixture of inch and metric to contend with.  A
lot of new connectors are mm spacing.


From Chrish@easynet.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:05:38 EDT 1996
Article: 34989 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chrish@easynet.co.uk (Chris Heapy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 18:32:31 GMT
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I take it these are Jacobs 'type' (as you say) rather than real Jacobs
chucks. The figures are Bad, by a factor of 10 or so. The TIR on my
new Jacobs No34Bs (I've got 7 of them now, 2 old 5 new) average around
0.0007", can't remember the variation but none were worse than 0.001"
and most were about 0.0005". I have an older Validus keyless @ 0.0006"
and a well used Jacobs keyless at 0.0015" (I know this was damaged and
would expect much better figures with a new one). All measurements
taken with a 5/16" piece of silver steel held in the chuck, and within
1/2" of the jaws. Shank was either commercial 2MT shank, or home-made
2MT x 5/8"x16TPI shank with a large register which the back of the
chuck body screws up against. It wouldn't suprise me to learn a lot of
the measured runout was in the home-made shank, the more worn chucks
on JT tapers giving as good  figures as the new ones, which I would
have expected to show better considering they were new. Chucks were
held in the mandrel nose of my Myford Super7 (which is DEAD true as
far as I can ascertain).

If you are quite sure the source of the runout is in the chuck, and
not in the shank or machine spindle, you might try internal grinding
to correct it. It is just about possible to strip these chucks to
renovate them (I read an old article about this somewheres recently)
but given the reasonable cost new it might not be worth the effort.
Your comment about the Jacobs chuck 'threading onto the headstock
spindle' leaves me wondering - is there a male thread on the chuck or
female? Does the chuck body register against a true surface when it's
screwed in place? If your chuck is a cheap oriental clone buy a new
chuck - they're not that expensive (those 5 new 34Bs I bought were
sold for 5UKP each - they were 5/8" x 16 TPI internal thread, guy said
no-one wanted them as they didn't fit anything in the shop).

Chris

>(First, thanks to all who replied to my query re use of inverters 
>to drive 3 phase motors.  I will report when I get mine installed.)

>Recently I checked the runout (TIR) of some of my Jacobs type chucks.
>For the most part I measured .002 to .005 TIR of a chucked drill, and 
>about .002 TIR of the chuck nose itself, both when mounted in my Taiwanese
>drillpress and in my small (Atlas 6") lathe.  I'm particularly bothered by
>the .004 runout of my Jacobs headstock chuck (threads onto the lathe 
>spindle).  Questions:  is this typical and to be expected?  If not, what
>causes the runout and is there a remedy?

>Thanks for any info.

>am




From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:39 EDT 1996
Article: 34990 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:41:30 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Roy Robinson wrote:

> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
> 
> 
Silver & Deming drill bits are large bits ( > 1/2 inch ) with a 1/2 inch
diameter straight shank so they can be chucked in a standard 1/2 inch
drill press to drill large holes.  Watch speed and feed and they work
pretty well.  I use them fairly often in my 1/2 inch drill motor for
field work.
Most large drill bits use a taper shank and plug directly into the
drill press spindle.  They may need an adaptor for the correct taper.

John



From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:40 EDT 1996
Article: 34991 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welding aluminum???
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:48:43 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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I just use my torch.  It does help to have the special lenses in your
goggles.  Look for neodymium lenses.

John


On 19 Sep 1996, Sandi wrote:

> Please help me!!  I am looking for any information I can find on
> welding aluminum, ie. what kind of welder, etc........Just all the 
> "How to" when it comes to welding aluminum.
> Any help or advice on how to, or where to look would be greatly 
> appreciated!
> Tom
> 103437.124@compuserve.com  OR chopper.nut@juno.com
> 
> 


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:41 EDT 1996
Article: 34992 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: emco maier (was Well I bought a lathe....)
Date: 19 Sep 1996 13:57:28 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 37
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References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14> <323EDDA9.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
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I have a slightly different take on the issue of the disappearing 'good' machine tool 
manufacturers.

1.  The reason most of the 'good' guys are disappearing is that machine shops need to 
go CNC to survive.  The old 'good' guys either start supplying CNC like South Bend 
does or they disappear.

2.  The amateur market can only sustain a few manufacturers in the world.  If we lose 
EMCO and, gasp, should I say it, Myford, we folks would be in a world of hurt 
vis-a-vis our hobby.

3. Given 1 & 2 above, I recommend that people get a good lathe first and think about a 
mill later (Hopefully Bridgeport will stay in business for a while and anyway, there 
seems to always be used Bridgeports available in the commercial market).  

To expand on this statement:  Many of us get a marginal lathe because it is cheap and 
somewhat more available than the better, older U.S.-built lathes like Logan, SB, 
Rockwell, etc.  Then we spend our money (if we have any) on a mill which, if you are 
like me, keeps you poor buying tooling.  Now, no money for a better lathe so we 
struggle on with the smaller (or eastern) lathe or we fix the problems in one manner 
or the other.

4. The reason for purchasing a good lathe first or doing a trade-in is that there are 
no more 'good' lathes in production (except EMCO and Myford and they are much more 
expensive than a 'good' older U.S.-made lathe).

The problem here is that while the 'good' lathe supply remains constant, this hobby is 
growing.  I think this phenomenon is starting to effect the price of the older 'good' 
lathe.  When I started four years ago, the going price for a Craftsman 6" in good 
shape here in Silicon Valley was $400.  Now the asking price is $600 to $1,000.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus

BTW, Scott, when is Logan going back into production?



From rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:42 EDT 1996
Article: 34993 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 07:41:07 -0600
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What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?


From gjk1049@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:43 EDT 1996
Article: 34994 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gjk1049@aol.com (GJK1049)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSC Has Web Page
Date: 19 Sep 1996 10:04:55 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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For anyone interested please look at http://www.mscdirect.com
  Gail Krause


From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:44 EDT 1996
Article: 34995 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:06:59 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 24
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On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Jens wrote:

> jrkgb@iuakk.fi (Jukka Raulamo) wrote:
> 
> >        *WARNING*  Unsolicited commercial Email to this account
> >        warrants a $500 transmital fee, Email constitutes agreement
> >        to these terms.    
> 
> Jukka,
> If I was a person that has any commercial Email to send I would be
> sure to send it to you. There is someone on the same ISP as me that
> has a similar warning. Whenever I seem something as silly as this I
> think to myself 'darn, I got to come up with some commercial email and
> send it out' .
> 
Jens, this is clearly a joke derived from the warnings usually printed
on shrinkwrapped software packages for your computer!  Something like
"Warning, reading this message constitutes agreement to the terms and
conditions thereon, and we take your money and deliver NOTHING that is
warranted to do anything in any way and if it costs you lots of money,
tough. "

John



From MCenter@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:46 EDT 1996
Article: 34996 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MCenter@gnn.com (MARK CENTER)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:39:13
Organization: GNN
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>I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
>six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and

A masonry type carbide-tipped drill will work espcially if you sharpen it 
with an oilstone or green wheel. If you use HSS you will need to sharpen each 
time you hit an occlusion. A combination of both may work best. Drill outside 
with carbide, use HSS until you hit an occlusion, drill through the occlusion 
with carbide, re-sharpen the HSS and drill until you hit an occlusion.
With that length to diameter ratio it would be eaiser to dill from both sides





From sherrick@slonet.org Fri Sep 27 16:05:47 EDT 1996
Article: 34997 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:26:25 -0700
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There is a process called hot galvanizing. You use a bar of zinc, and heat
the surface of the steel to the melt temperature (about 600 deg F.) of the
sinc. By lightly applying the zinc bar, and vigoruous wire brushing, a
fully galvanized surface can be achieved. Caution is required hough as the
fumes from the zinc bar are hazardous. Use great ventilation AND a
respirator. The zinc bar should be available through a welding supply
store.

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Steven O. Smith wrote:

> C++ Freak wrote:
> > 
> > Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
> > as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
> > But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
> > Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
> > I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
> > in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
> > 
> > Klaas
> 
> The spray galvanizing stuff is supposed to be pretty effective. I have
> no experience to back that up.
> 
> MSC has the stuff for about $5 a can; I've seen it in specialty catalogs
> for $20 a can!
> 
> -- 
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com
> 
> 



From bwinterb@intranet.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:48 EDT 1996
Article: 34998 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 11:08:09 GMT
Organization: Intranet Technologies
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References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
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In article <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com>,
   cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:
>
>	1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
>	oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
>	that. :)  
>
>Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
>
Wrong on all counts. 1 Imperial fl. oz weighs 1 avoirdupois ounce. 1 US ounce 
weighs more. Water weighs 10 lb/Imperial gallon=160 fl oz, but more than 
8lb/US gallon=128 US fl oz. An Imperial pint is 20 fl oz. Thus in NO part of 
the world is a pint a pound.

Bruce Winterbon
bwinterb@intranet.ca
http://intranet.ca:80/~bwinterb



From riawdv@magna.com.au Fri Sep 27 16:05:49 EDT 1996
Article: 34999 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Miriam de Vries <riawdv@magna.com.au>
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Subject: Re: How to Get Rid of These (was Re: WHY...tell me WHY...?! "The Funniest Dirty Jokes of All Time"
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> >
> >>>How does one find out the postmasters address? please let me know, so that
> I can join in the good fight.
> 

Write to postmaster@  and insert the name of their provider in this 
space!  Easy


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35000 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 15:07:09 GMT
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Sep 17 10:07:09 AM CDT 1996

I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and
doubtless has a hard skin and hard spots throughout.  Should I attempt
it with a cobalt steel drill, or a solid carbide?  Any lubricant as I
get deeper, or simply do it in small steps, clear the chips,  and let
everything cool down?  Any practical advice will be much appreciated. 
Next time I'll somehow rig a core for such a hole!

                                    --Alan Heldman


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:05:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35001 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:45:28 GMT
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I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
what is the composition of this metal?

Jim Waggener
creativ@infi.net



From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35002 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:35:02 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 32
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On 18 Sep 1996, Ray Spinhirne wrote:

> Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
> : "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>
> : >I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
> : >junk car and going from there.
>
> : I would like to also know if this will work ... I was thinking along
> : the same lines except I was going to spend the $18 (Canadian) for a
> : set of new trailer bearings. I am a little concerned as to how
> : accurate these bearings are or if there will be all kinds of runout
> : making the whole thing useless.
>
> : Jens

As I remember roller bearings are more accurate than ball bearings.
And the trailer bearings ought to work at vastly greater speeds than they
see on trailers.  However the load would have to be much less.  You aren't
planning to press against the grinding wheel with four or fine hundred
lbs.  ( sorry, I know I should be using dynes. ) force.

Ask your industrial bearing supplier to let you look at one of the books
on bearing selection.

I have been thinking of using new roller bearings from W. W. Grainger.

					Cheers,



From 103437.124@CompuServe.COM Fri Sep 27 16:05:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35003 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Sandi <103437.124@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum welding
Date: 19 Sep 1996 02:02:11 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <51q9j3$s2k$2@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>

Anybody have any advice on aluminum welding for a novice?
I would like to make things out of aluminum for my RC hobby 
(planes, boats, helicopters, etc.)

Thanks so much for any help!
Tom         chopper.nut@juno.com


From rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca Fri Sep 27 16:05:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35004 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mig welders
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 07:44:22 -0600
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Does anyone have any knowledge of Solar Mig welders?  I am contemplating
purchasing their 220v model #2160C.  Am Imaking a mistake.


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35005 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: opinions re logan or bridgrport
Date: 19 Sep 1996 21:49:42 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <09960819164308.OUI74.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <51scsl$iu2@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.  net>, From tom 
bean <"muybean@worldnet.att.net"@postoffice.wor  ldnet.att.net>, the
following was written: > would like advice on the value of a logan
model#825 lathe (10"x30")

Tom,

Perhaps others here can give a more objective appraisal of the value of
your Model 825, but I think it's an excellent lathe.  First machine tool
I ever used was an 825 in my Dad's basement, and he still uses it today.
 BTW, it's a 10" x 24". The Model 825 was first developed for the US
Navy for shipboard use, which is why they had 3 feet instead of the
usual 4.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/19/96 16:48
 http://www.loganact.com




From avatar@halcyon.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35006 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: avatar@halcyon.com (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 08:14:43 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 52
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In article <323E3AA5.5BBD@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca>, David Baggaley
<baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca> wrote:

> How does one prime aluminum these days? In the bad old days you
> just used zinc chromate primer or something similar. It's no longer
> available at the consumer level. 
> 
> I want to spray paint my aluminum storm door. Any ideas?
> 
> Dave
> 
> -- 

I've been using Hammerite on alluminum with excellent results.
I wire brush the alluminum to make it clean and give a rough surface for
the paint to bond to.
It has worked fine for me , but I wouldn't recommend it for underwater use
without some tests.
Hammerite is available at most hardware stores , and has become my
favorite paint for everything.
It can be purchased in either spray or liquid form. It has the highest
percentage of solids of any commercial paint on the market.
For this reason , once you start using a spray can of hammerite you have
to use it up with a week or so or the feed tube inside will get clogged so
bad you have to toss the rest of the can.
I have no idea what hammerite is ( i.e. lacquer, enamel, epoxy, pixy
dust), since they don't tell you on the label, but to clean up the stuff
you will need a pint of the special Hammerite thinner .
I also use it in my Binks, but it really needs a pressure pot. Trying to
spray Hammerite with a sypon gun is like trying to suck molasses through a
straw. You have to thin it down so far to get it to spray that it takes
several coats. Hopefully, soon, I'll get a pressure pot.
Hammerite is unique in that it does not require a primer coat , even over
rusty metals.
 I have found very little that it won't stick to.

Best of luck

-- 
*********************************************************************

                            Ernie Leimkuhler

                         STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS

                        Custom Metal Fabrication

         ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488

                        Renton, Washington, USA

*********************************************************************


From browen@aoc.nrao.edu Fri Sep 27 16:05:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35007 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: browen@aoc.nrao.edu (Bruce Rowen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 19 Sep 1996 16:41:30 GMT
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Lines: 38
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In article <324100DD.1F58@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> writes:
>Kirk Hays wrote:

>
>   I've already had several Email requests for this. Call "The
>Edge Company" at 800-732-9976, and ask for a catalog. The 
>catalog's pretty interesting itself, though with a lot of 
>odd junk in it. I've seen them a couple of other places, 
>but I've discarded the catalogs. Also, I have no idea how 
>"amazing" the crowbar is; for all I know, it's a factory 
>reject. One thing that an earlier poster said makes sense; 
>I seem to dimly remember, now, that Russia is a major source of 
>titanium, so perhaps it's not as exotic as it seems to me.


If I remember my HS chemistry correctly, Titanium is the 4th
most common element behind oxygen, carbon, and silicon.
A real nightmare to process though!

>
>-- 
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
>    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
>              http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
>\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Rowen 				National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Scientific Programmer				Array Operations Center
browen@aoc.nrao.edu			  P.O. Box O  Socorro, NM   87801
(505)835-7329					     (505)835-7000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:05:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35008 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dxxqsu.By6@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com> <51nuet$r77@news1.svc>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:53:18 GMT
Lines: 39

In article <51nuet$r77@news1.svc>,
Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>What do you mean, "Don't cut yourself?"
>
>The day is a total waste if I don't cause a little rust somewhere from
>dripping blood.

My wife maintains that no project I ever work on is complete until I
bleed on it somewhere.  I've got a lot of scars from simple little
home projects to big scars from big home projects (usually involving
#5 rebar).  Makes me a bit afraid to approach some projects I've
always thought complete...

As to causing rust I was at a gunsmith's shop recently, hanging
around, causing trouble and like many, couldn't keep my hands from
doing something (anyone else have that problem?  Land in a shop and
start working instantly?  Hell, I've had Roy give me a file and start
me drawfiling barrels to stay out of trouble, when all I did was to
come by to borrow a tool...).  Anyway, I started picking swarf from
a barrel in the lathe, like a fool, and whacked a finger pretty deep,
'bout halfway to the bone from the face of my finger.  Blood oozing
instantly, Roy shouting "Don't get any blood on guns - rusts like
hell!".  Thanks for the concern, Roy. ;-)

>Seriously,  go get your tetanus shot up to date and keep a bottle
>of hydrogen peroxide near.

Good idea.  I never seem to have problems with tetanus updates, as
soon as I don't recall the date of the last shot I seem to get a
renewal.  

>Make every wound bleed.

That's a starting point, but not an ending point.  

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35009 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dxxq31.Bsu@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com> <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:37:49 GMT
Lines: 36

In article <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico>,
John Nicol <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I have the same lathe and am contemplating making a toolpost grinder.  By
>any chance is this one of the things that you made?  If so I would be
>grateful for any details that you could provide on how to build one.  
>
>I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
>junk car and going from there.

I've not made one, but I've thought about it and I don't think that
wheel bearings would be a starting point.  They really aren't
designed to take the kind of speed that you'd be using in a TP
grinder - something designed to take a couple thousand rpm isn't
going to last at 20K rpm.  At the minimum you'll need bearings from
something like a die grinder or the like.  Preloaded and sealed for
grinder use is only the starting point.

In addition to the bearings you'll want a good motor, something in a
speed controllable Baldor if you plan to run it for too long.  You
might get away with a vacuum cleaner motor, but it's not going to
last as long in a shop environment as a commercial motor.

A couple of kits are available, one from MLA that looks clean and
nice, but carries a stiff price tag, and one from another source I
can't recall.  

Right now I borrow a TP grinder when I really need one.  If I was to
need one for production use I'd likely buy a used Dumore or the like
>from  one of the used machinery folks.  If I had some spare time in
the shop (Ha!) I might make the MLA kit, even though it'd cost more
than a used Dumore.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35010 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:25:25 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 4
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I guess in my opinion it IS a joke, Jens.  If Jukka doesn't think so,
then the joke is probably on Jukka!

John


From general@the-net.u-net.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35011 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "the NET! General User" <general@the-net.u-net.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: LEONARD FORK TRUCK ATTACHMENTS
Date: 17 Sep 1996 22:24:23 GMT
Organization: U-NET limited
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The leading producer of mechanical fork truck attachments in Europe, E V
Leonard & Company have just gone global with the commissioning of their own
Web site

http://www.evlco.com/

They would be delighted to hear from anyone who wishes to enquire about
agencies and distributorships around the World and welcomes approaches via
their on-line interactive form or via phone or fax.





From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35012 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
Subject: Blueing steel
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:59:41 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 14
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35012 sci.materials:20310

Many years ago a friend reblued the barrel of my .22 rifle in a tank of
boiling solution of some salt.  This is of course the usual way blueing is
done.  However the salts that he used were not sold for use in blueing.
They were sold as fertilizer.

Does anyone know what blueing salts are?  And does anyone know which
fertilizer can be used for blueing  ( possibly the same question )?

I recently bought some aluminum sulphate at the garden nursery for use in
disolving a broken tap out of a piece of aluminum.  And this set me
thinking.

				Cheers,



From baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca Fri Sep 27 16:06:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35013 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Baggaley <baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Q: Priming Aluminum?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 05:44:05 +0000
Organization: RCTB
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How does one prime aluminum these days? In the bad old days you
just used zinc chromate primer or something similar. It's no longer
available at the consumer level. 

I want to spray paint my aluminum storm door. Any ideas?

Dave

-- 
Dave Baggaley, RCTB, Thunder Bay, Ontario
mailto:baggaley@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca


From purnell@dmv.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35014 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: William Purnell <purnell@dmv.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to build an arbor
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:03:41 -0400
Organization: DelMarVa OnLine!
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------71872705687
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello,

		I recently built an Arbor that I love.  I searched for months through books, magazines, housing 
	developments and was never able to find the plans I was looking for.  Well after much thought I 
designed my own plans, for a completely wooden arbor.  It is made of of 4 x 4, 2x8, and ferring strips. It is 
hefty yet elegant.  I am not a professional architect, or carpenter, yet my arbor is beautiful.  I have written 
and illustrated plans as to how to make an arbor of your own.  The plans are simple step by step, and do not 
require you to own special tools.  For a set of plans and materials list, mail $3.00 U.S. and a self addressed 
stamped (#10) envelope to:

				William Purnell
				31657 Zion Road
				Parsonsburg, MD 21849 USA

	All checks must be made payable to William Purnell.  The generic illustration should be attached.  The 
required tools list is as follows:

				 1.  Saber or scroll saw	
				 2.  Circular or hand saw
				 3.  Hammer and nails
				 4.  Tape measure
				 5.  Level
				 6.  String
				 7.  drill w/screwdriver bit and 1/8 drill bit (Optional)

	Questions or comments should be directed to  purnell@dmv.com

--------------71872705687
Content-Type: image/jpeg
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Arbor2.jpg"

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KyvZL7y1oerw6VFdieMyl4lNvDJErxGZXXazq3XapfGOpIU5VnUu1XW1drODRby9jgsEJtVn
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KupV+Q6Egg4OGIoorifuSaR+c1v9gxlanT6OUU3urNq621srX83bXbOoooqTgP/Z
--------------71872705687--



From asko@hut.fi Fri Sep 27 16:06:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35015 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nntp.inet.fi!news.funet.fi!nntp.hut.fi!usenet
From: "Antti S. Korhonen" <asko@hut.fi>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 03:37:32 GMT
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology
Lines: 24
Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <51t3hs$klq@nntp.hut.fi>
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C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:
>Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
>as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
>But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
>Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
>I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
>in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
>
>Klaas
>
Industry uses laser welding for welding of zinc coated plates. The seam 
is so narrow that the corrosion resistance is not lost. I think that one 
of the first applications were the bottom plates of Audi which were first 
welded together and then formed.This technique of tailored blanks is now 
used commonly and also some other welding techniques in addition to laser 
have been used.

-- 
Antti S. Korhonen
Helsinki University of Technology
e-mail: asko@hut.fi
http://www.hut.fi/HUT/Treatment/alku.html
arro



From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35016 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze casting
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:18:35 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <323ef650.511836078@news.islandnet.com>
References: <519esr$psd@matrix.eden.com> <51kh8l$2b1@ankka.csc.fi> <323e1216.453410433@news.islandnet.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960917140522.337J-100000@reliant>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i1-36.islandnet.com
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"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

>On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Jens wrote:
>
>> jrkgb@iuakk.fi (Jukka Raulamo) wrote:
>> 
>> >        *WARNING*  Unsolicited commercial Email to this account
>> >        warrants a $500 transmital fee, Email constitutes agreement
>> >        to these terms.    
 
>Jens, this is clearly a joke derived from the warnings usually printed
>on shrinkwrapped software packages for your computer! 

John
I don't know about the joke portion - the chap that is on my ISP was
rather serious (and cheezed off that I would dare challenge this).
We'll see if Jukka feels it's a joke .....
Jens



From lookma@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35017 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news
From: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 30" sheetmetal machine question
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:54:21 -0700
Organization: Look Ma!
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32416CAD.75AB@sedona.net>
References: <01bba5ac$ebc2f100$186ae7ce@cwmead.top.monad.net>
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Curtis W. Mead wrote:
> 
> hey-
> Is there anyone out there with experience with a 30" combination
> sheetmetal machine, shear,brake and roll.  One of the used machinery
> dealers i talked to today said they are junk because they don't roll
> evenly , the won't bend a crisp 90 degree, and they roll the edge when
> they shear.  Can they really be that bad?  Is $415 a good price for an
> enco?
> --
> Curtis W. Mead
> cwmead@top.monad.net
> http://top.monad.net/~cwmead
I have one, in addition to the real thing in each case. They're OK in a
pinch, but aren't suitable for production use. Each function (shear,
brake, roll) is a bit substandard, but OK for the occasional need.
They're also difficult to adjust and slow to use.

You get what you pay for - and remember that a 30" shear alone, even a
used one, will run you well over $1000, and a 12" brake costs $700 new.

Doug
Look Ma! Custom Etching
http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:06:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35018 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201049.26401A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:43:19 GMT
Lines: 32


The silliest metric unit has to be the one for the fuel consumption  of 
motor vehicles.  Liters per 20 kilometers.  Ugh!  It seems the kilometer 
is too short to use liters per kilometer.  This causes all kinds of 
confusion.  A localy produced motorcycle magazine praised the economy of 
a small Japanese motorcycle.  When I converted to miles per Imperial Gallon,
the result was less than 30 miles per gallon.  Terrible mileage!  My 
Harley gets over 60 miles/Imperial Gallon!


In a previous article, jsp@u.washington.edu (Jeffrey Prothero) says:

>
>
>On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, William L. Brown Jr. wrote:
>
>> Somebody (for whatever reason!) wrote:
>> > I think however if you wish to continue with the  "inch-lb-sec system",
>> > new hybrid units  called the Kilo-gallon and Mega-gallon should be
>> > proposed.
>>
>> Actually, in that range we use acrefeet.
>>
>And in between we use barrels and hogsheads.
>		Cheers,
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From lughaid@pacbell.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35019 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.PBI.net!usenet
From: lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael D. Horgan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help with old Goodell-Pratt lathe
Date: 20 Sep 1996 00:00:29 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 23
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51smqt$kus@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
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In article <1996Sep14.063502.25471@lafn.org>
ae161@lafn.org (James Lemon) wrote:

>  (Is there a #0 MT?) 
> 	This is a skimpy description, I know, but if this tool
> sounds at all familiar to you, please contact me. It's so unusual
> that it's already a major conversation piece in my garage.
> 	Oh, and I have no chuck, so I'm also looking for parts.
> 	Many thanks-
> 	Jim Lemon
> 	ae161@lafn.org
Sounds like a fine one Jim. 
Yes, there is a #0 Morse taper, varies from 0.252 at the small end
 to 0.3561 at the large end with a depth of 2 7/32",
(from Machinery's Handbook.)

Those Bronze bushings cut down on vibration to give you a finer finish! ;)

Michael D Horgan 
Lughaid@pacbell.net
http://members.aol.com/lughaid/
ah491@lafn.org



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35020 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!uniserve!news.sol.net!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: 17 Sep 1996 18:08:34 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 22
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References: <51mi7v$ea4@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
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Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) wrote:
: All this posting about metric vs. non-metric (whatever you may want
: to call the non-metric) has caused me to wonder about the many systems
: used for drills (not to mention wire).  Why do we indeed have both
: A-Z letter and 1-60 + 61-80 number drills along with inch fraction
: and metric ?  Are any considered obsolete yet ?  Why did they limit 
: the letter drills to just 26 (instead of AA, AB, AC, etc.) ?  I think
: that there are actually duplications, with the same size showing up
: in more than one system... don't make much sense to me ?  What's the
: history behind all this ?  

The fractional sizes are obvious.  The number sizes are mostly in-between
the fractions, but for the larger sizes, what do you do after you get to
#0 (zero)?  It would get rediculous to have #00, #000, #0000 ad infinitum,
so the letter sizes extend the 'mostly in-between' sizes on the larger
end of the scale.  There ARE duplications, the 'E' is exactly .250"?
Extending the letter drills beyond Z gets to some pretty large sizes, as
the Z is .413".  fractional drills available in 64ths of an inch give
plenty of resolution when you get up near a half inch.  If you need an
EXACT size, you will drill undersize and ream or bore to final size,
anyway.



From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35021 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:18:40 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <323ef71f.512042706@news.islandnet.com>
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congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:

>I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
>six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and
>doubtless has a hard skin and hard spots throughout.  Should I attempt
>it with a cobalt steel drill, or a solid carbide?  Any lubricant as I
>get deeper, or simply do it in small steps, clear the chips,  and let
>everything cool down?  Any practical advice will be much appreciated. 
>Next time I'll somehow rig a core for such a hole!
>
>                                    --Alan Heldman

Don't know the answer to most of your questions but I found that
drilling cast iron in the lathe (horizontally) will clear the chips
out really nice - it allows you to do the job much faster.
(Oh, this is assuming you drill dry - which you should)
Jens


From jsanders@jove.acs.unt.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35022 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jsanders@jove.acs.unt.edu (Justin M Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 21:46:32 GMT
Organization: University of South Alabama
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dal wagner (dalw@direct.ca) wrote:

[Many well-taken points about the difficulty of converting U.S. customary
units.]

> By definition  a liter is the volume occupied by one kg of water at 4 
> degrees C and every unit of volume, or equivalent weight, larger or 
> smaller are simply  multiples of 10. 

This is not true anymore.  Although the original definition of a gram
connected the gram to the mass of a 1 centimeter cube; since the late
1800's it has been defined in terms of the prototype kilogram maintained
in Paris.  The effect is that the density of water is never exactly 1
g/cm^3.  At greatest density, the difference is only 0.003%, but at room
temperature 1 cc of water has a mass that is 0.3% less than a gram.  Thus,
for example a cubic meter of water at 25 C has a mass of 997.07 kg (not
1,000).

I provide this information in a spirit of good-natured pedantry and not to
suggest that the typical person need worry about the small difference.

> It's amazing how far we can drift from rec.crafts.metalworking. 

Indeed.

> All in good fun nevertheless. 

Indeed. :)

> Physics dept. knocking the metric system. Heresy I say! Heresy!

Oh, I'm not knocking the metric system in any way-- I'm just defending the
U.S. customary system to the extent that it can be defended (which isn't
much). 

In physics class, however, I'm quite orthodox and stick to metric units
(usually). 

--
Justin M. Sanders           "I shot an arrow into the air.  It fell 
Dept. of Physics               to earth I know not where." --Henry
Univ. of South Alabama           Wadsworth Longfellow confessing
jsanders@jaguar1.usouthal.edu     to a sad ignorance of ballistics.


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35023 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.fsu.edu!cpk-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!buffnet2.buffnet.net!buffnet7.buffnet.net!krieder
From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: casting surgical steel
Date: 13 Sep 1996 03:40:42 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <51al3q$rgg@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
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anseideman (aneuman@ix.netcom.com) wrote:

: Can anyone assist in source for equipment and material for casting
: surgical steel.  This is the material used for ring manufacture which I
: inquired about in a past post.  How does one go about finding this type
: of material in small lots, ie. pounds rather than tonnes.  Would
: equipment exist for this type of small item fabrication or would it be
: sort of rigged home made?

Laura... be aware that, "surgical steel" is not much more than an 
advertising buzzword.  Are you talking about razor blades ? nail
clippers ? scalpels ? hemostats ?... all commonly hyped by that name.
I can't imagine why you would want to make a steel ring.  If you want
to work with any kind of steel on a small scale... your talking vacumn
melting.



From lookma@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35024 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news
From: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:30:10 -0700
Organization: Look Ma! Custom Etching Service
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>
Reply-To: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
which will be used on "desktop" fountains.

Thanks very much in advance!
Doug
-- 
***************************************
Doug Von Gausig
Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
lookma@sedona.net
http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
***************************************


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35025 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!news.uoregon.edu!news.ironhorse.com!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DxwF68.80n@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51khpg$djt@news-2.csn.net> <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960917141146.337K-100000@reliant>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:44:31 GMT
Lines: 13

In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960917141146.337K-100000@reliant>,
John R. Johnson <john@siu.edu> wrote:
>Actually, when I was in Great Britain a few years ago, I noticed that
>a Pint generally was a Pound.  Then the last time I was there it had
>gone up to a pound 30 or even in some pubs a pound 80!

A couple of weeks ago it was 2 Pounds/pint.  Makes you want to swear
off drinking, almost.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:06:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35026 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:30:29 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 6
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The moving finger of jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins) having written:

>If it's exactly a yard from your nose to your fingertips, you can be the King.

Or if it's a foot from nose to earlobe, you can be heir to the throne.



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35027 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!juniper.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Carbide toolholders
Date: 19 Sep 1996 12:59:49 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <09960819075655.OUI95.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <rich_klopp-1809961625110001@128.18.30.31>
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In article <rich_klopp-1809961625110001@128.18. 30.31> , From 
rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp), the following was written:
> Can anyone recommend any one of these over the other? It looks like 
> the Borite uses somewhat different inserts. Are the inserts widely 
> available? They don't seem to list them according to industry standard
  > codes. (Where have I seen an explanation of those codes? They look 
> something like "TPMG".) I'd hate to buy something that you can't get 
> inserts for 3 years from now. Can I use these same inserts in 
> somebody's boring bar?> ?

Rich,

Try to stick with toolholders which use inserts that start with TPG TNG
or TNMG.  These are standard and VERY available inserts.  You should be
able to find a turning, facing, and boring tool which will all use the
same insert, and therefore greatly cut down your investment in inserts.

Also, don't skimp on the toolholders or inserts.  Try to get the best
quality you can possibly afford.  We generally use Kennametal brand here
in our shop, but that is admittedly like the Cadillac of toolholders and
inserts.  Some of the other brands which are excellent are Sandvik,
Carboloy, Valenite and Teledyne, in no particular order.

If you can get it to fit, you might also consider moving up to 1/2"
tooling.  This would be more available, and more rugged.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/19/96 07:59
 http://www.loganact.com




From shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca Fri Sep 27 16:06:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35029 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!alph02.triumf.ca!shoppa
From: shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: 19 Sep 1996 17:58:57 GMT
Organization: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51s1l1$f9l@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
References: <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alph02.triumf.ca

In article <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>,
Doug Von Gausig  <lookma@sedona.net> wrote:
>Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
>fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
>which will be used on "desktop" fountains.

One obvious (but less than industrial-duty) source are the water
pumps in battery-operated squirt guns.  These aren't really designed
to work 24 hours a day, but they're cheap and available at your
local toy store. 

For 24x365 operation, look at some of the quality aquarium pumps
available.  For about US$50 you can find some that are capable
of pumping several gallons a minute up a vertical distance of several
feet.  This is probably too big for a "desktop" fountain, but I'm sure
smaller ones are available too.

Granger et al also list water pumps of various capacities, but none
of the ones I remember are particularly cheap.

Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:06:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35030 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 18:58:06 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <51pgnu$728@aphex.direct.ca>
References: <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com. <DxtMy0.83A@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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In article <DxtMy0.83A@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>, ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) says:
**********************************************************************
Steve says:
>Well, 10 Lb. of water is 1 Imperial gallon, so who needs a pencil? 

Dal wagner replies:
The USA because they use a US gallon. Topic is Metric system in the US.
***********************************************************************
Steve says:
 
>In the metric system, it's too easy to misplace a decimal point.  A 
>hundredth of a MM is a very small unit, but bigger than a thou.
 
Dal Wagner replies:

1mm =0.039... inches so 1/100th of that is 0.00039 inches.
Since when is 0.00039 inch bigger than 0.001 inch 
You've  certainly demonstrated your ability to loose those decimal points.
I know exactly what you mean I just found two of those damn things
in a small compartment at the back of my desk.
*************************************************************************
Steve says:
 
>The celsius degree is too large for a comfort scale at 17.22222- F.  Most 
>goods in Canada are sold in soft metric measure.  Metric sized metals are 
>hard to get.  By soft metric, I mean Imperial, or US packaging with the 
>metric equivalent on the label.  Why else does it say something like 
>" 225 grams " on a label?  This is realy 8 US ounces rounded to the 
>nearest whole number.  Sure, some things are in metric packaging, that's 
>one reason why we pay so much more for goods, than in the US.  We shouldn't
>have gone metric until the US made the change. 

Dal Wagner replies:

Not to sure what a comfort scale is ? All I do know is that water boils
at 100C and freezes at 0C. I'll let you keep 32F for freezing and 212F for 
boiling. 
Yes their are problems converting to metric. If we had stayed with the 
inch system Canada and the US could indeed trade with each other. The
problem is that there is a larger world out there that only uses metric.
Nobody is going to pull your head out of the sand. You'll have to do that
yourself. 
*****************************************************************


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35031 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: query re vernier gauge
Date: 17 Sep 1996 18:28:52 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 17
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David Stock (ya156039@alumnet.yorku.ca) wrote:
: My friend, who builds scale models of steam engines, has a "DIGITAL
: INOX" vernier gauge with an SPC 4 terminal connector and an LCD
: display.

: He wants a remote display of the digital output.  This would allow him
: to better see the display under his shop arrangements.

: Can you let me know if his project is possible.  If so, can you give
: me any information on circuitry or interfaces that would help?  He
: does not use a computer and wants a simple LCD or LED readout.

Sure, it is possible.  The output is serial, ASCII (I think), but
definitely NOT RS-232 voltage levels.  The whole scheme is described
in an article a few years ago in Steve Ciarcia's 'Circuit Cellar, Ink'
magazine.  I can go look for the issue.  This magazine is now called
the Computer Applications Journal.


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35032 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 21:12:44 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51sd0c$92@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb.di <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51mo57$sd@aphex.direct.ca> <wlbrownDxw7EC.F8H@netcom.com> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201049.26401A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu> <32417ECD.404A@ldl.net>
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In <32417ECD.404A@ldl.net> jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes: 

>And demijohns, firkins and tuns....
>
>...{snrkle}...
>
>				Jack
>
Don't forget Magnums, Jeroboams & Methuselas  ( hic.... )

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35033 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news3.buffnet.net!buffnet2.buffnet.net!buffnet11.buffnet.net!krieder
From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 17 Sep 1996 15:49:59 GMT
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: 1 Ton ( short ) 2,000 pounds
: 1 long ton      2,240 pounds  ( not used much )

The "long ton" is actually still used quite a bit in world commerce
where it is more common than the more familiar "short ton".  Prices 
of such things as Manganese ore and Ferromanganese as well as many other
items of commerce are sold and bought in "long ton" units.  The metric
ton is replacing it to some extent, however




From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:06:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35034 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!fozzie.mercury.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:50:23 GMT
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Yes, you can walk into their showroom in Bellingham, and they will give 
you a catalogue.  Some of their stuff is sold by Busy Bee in Canada.

The address is :  1821 Valencia St.,
                  Bellingham, Wa. 98226

Take exit 254 from the I 5, go east & turn right on Valencia.
                   



In a previous article, rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden) says:

>I've got a ridiculous problem that maybe someone can help me with.  I 
>called Grizzly Imports to request a catalog but when I they found out I 
>live in Canada, they refused to send me one.
>  "We don't ship anything into Canada, including catalogs," the 
>receptionist said.
>  "Why not?" I asked.
>  "Because it is our policy."
>  "But what is the reason for the policy?"
>  "The reason for our policy is that it is our policy."
>  I am not making this up.
>  I went around in circles with this woman several times, but could not 
>get her to send me a catalog, or even explain why not.  The long distance 
>charges were eating me alive, so I gave in and hung up.
>  I have seen some of their machines for sale in retail shops here (at 
>50% mark-up), so perhaps they have some kind of exclusive distribution 
>arrangement.
>  In their ads in the back of HSM, they list a PO Box in Bellingham as 
>their western address.  Does anyone know the street address, and if so, is 
>it possible to stop in and get a catalog there?  I pass through Bellingham 
>several times a year on business, so it wouldn't be too difficult, 
>providing they allow walk-in traffic (and they don't find out I'm a 
>Canadian.)
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>  Help support genetic diversity;          |    rborden@coastnet.com
>  Irradiate your kids.                     |        Ross Borden
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35035 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!ausnews.austin.ibm.com!bocanews.bocaraton.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 16:19:17 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <51rrq5$1978@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
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In <51pqqr$nf@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) writes:
>I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
>what is the composition of this metal?
>
>Jim Waggener
>creativ@infi.net
>

Obviously the composition is the same as those lathe chucks made from
"semi-steel."  

But - what is it really?  Maybe cheap steel made from old, ground up
semi-tractor-trailer trucks.  Hmm.

Enquiring minds actually *do* want to know...

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From frwillia@www.ptw.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35036 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <324211BE.2253@www.ptw.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:38:38 -0700
From: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
References: <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> <51n6k5$1su@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> <bairdo-1809961556370001@orl-fl5-19.ix.netcom.com>
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bairdo@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> In article <51n6k5$1su@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>,
> mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) wrote:
> 
> > In <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> Richard Immel <rimmel@etcard.com> writes:
> >
> > >
> > >I've an old (1946) South Bend lathe with horrendous
> > >chatter on long work pieces. <snip>
> >
> > Richard,
> 
> There is an outfit that sells very high quality castings:
> 
>    Metal Lathe Associates
>    Andy Lofquist
>    814-234-3543
> 
> Has a first class casting kit from which you can make a steady rest for
> the 9" SB.  Cost of the castings is +/- $40.  I just machined one.  First
> class.
> 
> You will need some help from someone with a mill if you don't have one.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Jim Baird

I second the remarks about the quality of the castings from Metal lathe 
Accessories.  They are really surperb. I machined a "T" slotted cross 
slide for my 1950 Model A 9" South Bend.  Its beautiful and looks and 
acts like the part South Bend should have made.  Also machined two of his 
castings for a large rectangular block with slots and threaded holes to 
use on both the lathe and on my mill.  I am also, amoung other things, 
machining a set of castings for two of his milling attachments - one to 
use on my Mill and the other set up for the South Bend.

His directions are excellent.  I used my mill to machine both the "T" 
slotted cross slide and the two blocks.  It takes both the mill and lathe 
to do the milling attachment, though he has a scheme to do it all on the 
lathe.

Great quality castings.

Fitch Williams


From suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us Fri Sep 27 16:06:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35037 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!newton.uncg.edu!relay.ga.unc.edu!sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us!suttons
From: "S. Russell Sutton" <suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us>
Subject: Wade Profiler/Houdall Collets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.95.960914224803.1825C-100000@spork.callamer.com> 
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:44:42 GMT
Lines: 5


I just purchased a Wade Profiler model #242.  I need a motor pulley 
assembly and 3/16" Houdall collets (2) or a set if you have such available.

Russ


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:06:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35038 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: 19 Sep 1996 17:11:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <51rure$s6h@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <323A1F0B.5C6D1FD@northnet.org>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

JWCERCIS wrote:
> 
> I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
> missing?
> 
> Mill

You can make really quick D-bit reamers from drill blanks.  It's a lot
cheaper than a full set of proper reamers, and with Lock-tite you can
often avoid the need for "thou under" reamers.

It's up to you whether or not this constitutes a good use :-)

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From billsr@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35039 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "William J. Graf Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re-gringding lathe bed
Date: 19 Sep 1996 16:08:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 9
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 19  9:08:59 AM PDT 1996
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I have a South Bend 9" lathe and am thinking of getting the ways
reground and a new or better tailstock as the one on it is worn
and I have to use shims to get it parallel with the head.  I
used two centers, one in the head stock and one in the tail
stock to line them up, is that the correct way?  I live in the
Cleve. Ohio area and would like to know if anyone knows of a
company that can re-grind the ways and approximate cost.  The
bed is approx. 3 ft. in length.  Thanks in advance.
Bill


From lughaid@pacbell.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35040 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael D. Horgan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machining Course
Date: 19 Sep 1996 22:34:17 GMT
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Hello all. 

Since I'm currently taking a course in machining, with access to Hardinge
Lathes, horizontal and vertical milling machines, tool and cutter grinders,
surface grinders, and the like, I expected to get a lot of M.E. work done.
Instead, I seem to have become a teaching assistant.  :)

I spend about half my time divided between teaching other students and
repairing shop equipment. Three days this week, I spent overhauling Cushman
3-jaw chucks, chasing the holes for bolting on the jaws, replacing worn
bolts, cleaning out chips, and in general cleaning, deburring, and
regreasing. Certainly satisfying work. 

Then there was trueing the grinding wheels on the pedestal grinders. Some of
them were gouged, but a couple of wheels were just glazed and not cutting
well, but the students had no idea this wasn't normal. I found out that most
of them had never used a grinder for more than sharpening screwdrivers. <grin>

 After a night spent trying to explain how to cut a lathe tool bit, I fired
up Corel Draw and made a chart showing the edges to be cut, which are the
appropriate angles for working with different materials, and drawings
showing top, side, and section views for a right hand toolbit.  It seems to
have helped, my chart is being distributed to other teachers in the
district, and they are copying it for students.

Even when I do get machine time, I will often hear or see a problem about to
happen, shut down my machine, and deal with it, instead of 1etting it wait
for the instructor. Letting new students know right away when they start to
make a bad mistake helps to short-circuit the creation of bad habits. (Saves
on machine repair, too!) The Instructor is happy, since this gives him more
time with the "slower" students, and I've never minded teaching anything I
know, (or most things I don't, for that matter. <grin> Like
Rikki-Tikki-Tavvi, I run and find out!) Then again, I learn more that way,
as well. 

I just wanted to send a special thanks to the folks of the Model-Engineering
list and of rec.crafts.metalworking, for their unending flow of wide-ranging
information. I find a lot of the tips and tricks passed on here are never in
the textbooks, and are instead often learned only during apprenticeship.
Most of the fellows in class with me will never get that sort of feedback,
and in fact will mostly be machine operators, but I can pass on as much as I
can. Looking them over, I can see one or two budding M.E.'s, and I'll do
what I can to ease them into the hobby.

Michael D Horgan  Lughaid@pacbell.net
http://members.aol.com/lughaid/      		




From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:06:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35041 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated s
Date: 19 Sep 1996 18:10:38 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <51s2au$sll@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
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C++ Freak wrote:
> 
> Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
> as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
> But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
> Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
> I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
> in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
> 
> Klaas

I've used the "cold galvinizing" paint after welding; it's like any other
paint in that surface prep is critical.  If you grind the weld bead smooth
you'll get much better results than you will by just covering over the bead.
Since the original finish is damaged over a wider area, you'll want to remove
that damaged area as well.

When I weld (or braze) galv. material, I always end up setting the zinc on
fire, which makes for more of a mess.  Any ideas on how to prevent that
>from  happening (particularly on the inside of galv. pipe)?

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From sherrick@slonet.org Fri Sep 27 16:06:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35042 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:30:44 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
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To: Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca>
In-Reply-To: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>

They are the cut down shaft type of drill bit. All typically have the
shaft cut down to 1/2" diameter. I think originally silver  and demming
was a trade name, that has stuck though the ages....

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick

On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Roy Robinson wrote:

> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
> 
> 



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:06:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35043 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: 19 Sep 1996 18:24:00 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Doug Von Gausig (lookma@sedona.net) wrote:
: Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
: fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
: which will be used on "desktop" fountains.

You should get catalogs from Herbach & Rademan (in NJ) and Burden's
Surplus Center (in Lincoln, NE).  Northern Hydraulics also has pumps, but
the two oufits I mentioned first probably have the smallest.  You also
should contact C & H Sales in Pasadena, CA.


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35044 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: opinions re logan or bridgrport
Date: 19 Sep 1996 22:37:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <51scsl$iu2@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> tom bean
<"muybean@worldnet.att.net"@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> writes: 
>
>would like advice on the value of a logan model#825 lathe (10"x30")
i'm 
>a complete novice without a clue. it is in reasonable condition and 
>includes a rest and a small number of tools. would this be a sensible 
>lathe to learn with? would a bridgeport of similar size cost as much? 
>also, what name brand mill\drill with a single phase motor would be 
>worth looking for? thanks for the help.
>
Tom,
 While Bridgeport has manufactured several types of machines in its
history, they are best known for their Milling machines. When someone
refers to "a Bridgeport", it is generally understood that they are
referring to a Mill. So, a comparison of a Bridgeport and a Logan lathe
is tough to do. 
 Logan Lathes are generally regarded as quality American made machines,
well suited for hobbyists. They carry the added advantage to you of
being able to enter into a dialogue with the manufacturer right here on
RCM (I'm sure Scott Logan will respond to your posting.)
 As for the price, that's not so easilly answered. It really depends on
several factors: your geographic location, condition of the lathe,
amount and quality of accessories. This is a decent machine for a
beginner, and if you don't overpay you will be able to get your money
back when you decide to trade up.
 As for the Best make of Mill/drill, a better question to ask would be:
which supplier of import mill/drills has the best reputation for
standing behind their product? I don't know the answer to that one. It
is best answered by someone who has bought one of these machines.
Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery " A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
http://hre.com/meridian



From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35045 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:21:46 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <3241E39A.49A1@holli.com>
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Tim Shoppa wrote:
> 
> In article <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>,
> Doug Von Gausig  <lookma@sedona.net> wrote:
> >Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
> >fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
> >which will be used on "desktop" fountains.
> 
> One obvious (but less than industrial-duty) source are the water
> pumps in battery-operated squirt guns.  These aren't really designed
> to work 24 hours a day, but they're cheap and available at your
> local toy store.
> 
> For 24x365 operation, look at some of the quality aquarium pumps
> available.  For about US$50 you can find some that are capable
> of pumping several gallons a minute up a vertical distance of several
> feet.  This is probably too big for a "desktop" fountain, but I'm sure
> smaller ones are available too.
> 
> Granger et al also list water pumps of various capacities, but none
> of the ones I remember are particularly cheap.
> 
> Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)


Try American Science and Surplus at 1-800-934-0722. 

Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From cas@scd.etn.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35046 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chuck Skarsaune <cas@scd.etn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: table for milling machine
Date: 19 Sep 1996 20:25:59 GMT
Organization: Eaton Corporation
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <51sa8n$obq@interserv.etn.com>
References: <32400ED0.41A6@fx.com>
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To: damian@fx.com
X-URL: news:32400ED0.41A6@fx.com

Richard Damian <damian@fx.com> wrote:
>Quite a few years ago I bought a used Burke (horizontal) mill.
>
>The table was in bad shape with numerous craters where t-nuts had been
>pulled up through the top.
>
>I milled the table flat below the surface of the t-slots and bolted
>a 1" thick piece of to the top and cut new slots.  A friend then
>surface ground it for me.
>
>As one might have suspected, after a period of months the bolts holding
>the top began to telegraph to the surface.
>
>I would prefer to build a new table top from a slab of grey iron
>(like meehanite) or buy a table off a junked machine.  I seem to 
>remember also that there was a source of moderately large positioning
>tables (5"x18") for lab use, but I cannot recall the source.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
>-Dick

Grand Tool Supply Corporation has a 5"x18" table in their latest sale flyer
for $299.95.  Catalog #942-230.
Phone 201-342-6900 or 201-288-4070
Mention Code X10 for an additional 10% off (there's a coupon in the flyer).

Chuck



From lughaid@pacbell.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35047 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael D. Horgan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
Date: 19 Sep 1996 23:07:40 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 17
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51sjns$jet@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
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X-Newsreader: News for Windows NT X1.0-92

Take a look at the new Home Shop Machinist, first. There's a good article
 from a buyer about what and how he got his machine and what it took to
 get it working.

> If anyone has any first or second hand experience with JET or JET mills,
> please, post it.  I'm really tired of buying crap. And I'm really scared
> of buying an older mill, because I have ZERO knowledge of what is good
> and what I have to spend double what I paid to refurbish it.
>
> Phil DeBrito
> Beginner At Large


Michael D Horgan 
Lughaid@pacbell.net
http://members.aol.com/lughaid/



From heerings@worldaccess.nl Fri Sep 27 16:06:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35048 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: heerings@worldaccess.nl
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Search for Technical Experts
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 18:52:16 GMT
Organization: World Access
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NNTP-Posting-Host: arh3-9.worldaccess.nl
X-Newsreader: Quarterdeck Message Center [2.00]

                             SEARCH FOR TECHNICAL EXPERTS


Product and/or process development requires specific information, knowledge
and/or experience. Specific information/knowledge/experience is mostly not easy
to track down, even not in centres for technology. One reason is that specific
knowledge/experience is mostly linked to individuals, the experts on a
specific topic.

In order to further the search for specific knowledge I am setting up a
database that refers to experts on all kinds of technological topics.
Companies that look for specific knowledge/experience can use the database
to get in touch with the needed expert.
If you are an expert and you like to be included in the database, please
send me (by email) the following information:


KEYWORDS describing your expertise:

* Field of technology, e.g. chemistry: 1 keyword.
* Application in terms of product/process, e.g. thermocouples: 1 - 3 keyword(s).
* Application in terms of industry/activity, e.g. refinery: 1 - 3 keyword(s).
* Description of expertise: preferably 3 keywords, e.g. misinterpretation,
  degradation, carbonmonoxide; if not possible: a small text is allowable.

 Some Rules:
 -For the selection of keywords you may use your own terminology.
 -A keyword may consist of more than one word.
 -Use the above description for each separate expertise you offer.
 -If you feel the use of keywords is too restrictive for a good description
  your expertise is probably not specific but general.


PERSONAL reference:

*      Name.
*      Name of company you represent (if applicable).
*      Email address and/or facsimile number.
*      Country/State.


Confidentiality: My name is J.H. Heerings (Dieren, The Netherlands). I am
writing from a personal interest and as an individual (no company is involved).
The above information will not be used for mailing lists or otherwise; only for
the abovementioned database. I will contact you at the moment the database will
start to run and is accessible for industry.


The information should be emailed to: heerings@worldaccess.nl



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:06:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35049 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:12:57 GMT
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Has anyone ever noticed, if a project draws blood, it ALWAYS turns out good!
Witness the well known lady model engineer in England, Cherry Hill ( Ne 
Hinds ).  Model Engineer Magazine once had a cover picture of her.  She 
was holding a gold medal winning model.  Her fingers had plenty of Band 
Aids ( Brit. Sticking Plasters ).
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From vcatalfo@wwonline.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35050 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vcatalfo@wwonline.com (Vince Catalfo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting stuff wanted
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 11:48:25 -0400
Organization: Adamo Research and Engineering Ltd
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <09-19-1996.10278@wwonline.com>
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In article <51js8r$d39@scipio.cyberstore.ca> ojnab@Silk.Net (Robert 
M. Kaplan) writes:
>ISO used gear (A to Z) for small jewelry casting (new hoby).  
Suggestions?
I have a bunch of left over stuff from my own old casting hobby.
If your interested vcatalfo@wwonline.com
I also have a centrifugal caster, and crucibles, etc...


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35051 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!My486!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:20:05 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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In article <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn) writes:
>From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
>Subject: Build a Gatling gun?
>Date: 19 Sep 96 15:20:06 GMT

>A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
>Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
>these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
>machine shop and does nice work.

>thanx,

>Jay, North Idaho

I have seen these at the NAMES show a couple times. They are very interesting 
models. and would be a project for a more experinced machinist.

a friend of mine bought the plans, studied them a bit, and found a few 
discrepancies. Nothing that would have made it impossible to build, but need 
to be carefully worked out.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From jhall@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35052 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!lll-winken.llnl.gov!hookup!news.nstn.ca!thor.atcon.com!ts1-d1
From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 01:24:20 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <51so77$afq@thor.atcon.com>
References: <51nq4g$419@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <jesw-1909961344410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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In article <jesw-1909961344410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>,
   jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins) wrote:
>In article <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
>ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
>
>> I used to gap the points in my cars with my thumbnail!  
>> 
>
>How crude of you! The correct setting is the thickness of a matchbook
>cover. Then you set the static timing with a precision test 
instrument
>made from a tail light socket and two alligator clips.

On Fords you set the points with a worn liberty head dime and the 
plugs with a folded match book.

John


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35053 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Q: Priming Aluminum
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:44:29 -0500
Organization: honeywell
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <32414E3D.6693@htc.honeywell.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win95; I)

One old trick popular with hams for treating panels and chassis is to etch the aluminum before painting.  Mix up a 
 solution with household lye (drain cleaner), about a gallon of water to a tablespoon of the lye crystals.  
Immerse the aluminum in that for five minutes or so.  Of course, clean thoroughly afterwards before priming, and 
do all operations with rubber gloves, and be careful disposing of solution.

-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35054 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 13:54:44 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <51rjb4$cvc@sjx-ixn5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com. <DxtMy0.83A@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <51pgnu$728@aphex.direct.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny12-37.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 19  6:54:44 AM PDT 1996

In <51pgnu$728@aphex.direct.ca> dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner) writes: 

>inch system Canada and the US could indeed trade with each other. The
>problem is that there is a larger world out there that only uses
metric.
>Nobody is going to pull your head out of the sand. You'll have to do
that
>yourself. 
>*****************************************************************

Well for what it's worth, this is really a non issue in my opinion.

less than 30 years ago, if you had to do a complex math problem, you
either used a slide rule or a lot of paper and time consuming
calculations. The advent of the electronic calculator eliminated the
pen and paper aspect. Complex Trig, geometry, and analysis is now
available by punching a couple of keys and reading the result. ( To the
detriment of a full understanding of the process) People now simply
memorize or keep handy the formulae for entry into the machine rather
than KNOWING how to work out the problem.

Similarly, with Digital readouts becoming commonplace in even the
smallest shops, conversion to metric is accomplished at the touch of a
button. If the print calls for metric dimension you set the machine to
metric mode. If yolu ahve to do the conversion, you enter the numbers
in "English" and hit the "convert" button and Voila!

We have developed a generation of young people who can do incredibly
complex math without knowing how to add or subtract. Amazing!

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/


From toolbox@whidbey.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35055 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!news.whidbey.com!usenet
From: "Ted Johnson" <toolbox@whidbey.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.antiques,rec.antiques.marketplace
Subject: Mach't Tool Chest i.d.3
Date: 20 Sep 1996 01:59:17 GMT
Organization: WhidbeyNet 
Lines: 535
Message-ID: <01bba696$d70bca80$11365ecc@toolbox>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sno7.whidbey.net
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35055 rec.antiques:44903 rec.antiques.marketplace:39087

I'm surprised that most Machinist Tool Chest manufacturers didn't put their
names and model numbers on their products. Therefore I'm gathering info.
about the chests and cases. My goal is to be able to i.d. chests and cases
based on their features and dimensions. From catalogs I've currently spec.d
out (17) Gerstners, (21) C.E.Jennings and (8) Pauwen chests and cases. My
list of known manufacturers is:
H. Gerstner & Sons, Dayton, OH, 1920-date
Lufkin Rule Co., Saginaw, MI, 1900-1960
Union Tool Chest Co., Rochester, NY, 1920-1940
Baker-Case Mfg. Co., Racine, WI, c1930
C.E.Jennings & Co., New York, NY, 1900-1920
Pauwen          ?                  ?           c1918
Ohio Nat'l. Mfg. Co., Chillicothe, OH, c1910
Goodnow & Wrightman, Boston, MA, c1880
If you have a chest or case I really need your co-operation in this
project. When you've finished reading (& printing ?) this article please
click on the highlighted word "questionnaire" below. This will download
'questionnaire.doc' to Microsoft Word. If it doesn't work properly on your
system e-mail your address and I'll put a copy in the mail, or I'll e-mail
direct to you if your using Netscape Navigator 2.0 or 3.0 or Microsoft
Internet Explorer 3.0 (along with MS Word).
The questionnaire is designed to gather info about unidentifiable chests or
cases with your goal being for 'toolbox' to provide an i.d.
Also, If you know the manufacturer (& maybe the year range) please fill out
the questionnaire and return it. You'll be providing the necessary history
info from which we can i.d. other peoples chests or cases. Thanks.
 
  
-- 
Ted Johnson, toolbox@whidbey.net
begin 600 questionnaire.doc
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`
end



From RFahey2781@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35056 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!RFahey2781
From: RFahey2781@gnn.com (Robert Fahey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbars
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:35:50
Organization: GNN
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <51pip5$4fa@news-e2c.gnn.com>
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Supposedly the Russians had about 80% of the world's supply 
of Ti. Maybe they made crowbars out of it because it was 
cheap and strong and lite.



From machtool@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35057 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: andy popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 30" sheetmetal machine question
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:36:29 -0400
Organization: XL MACHINERY
Lines: 1
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To: "Curtis W. Mead" <cwmead@top.monad.net>

it is little high for scrap metal


From johnd@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35058 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Low Cost Lathes (was Re: emco maier ... (was..)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 06:44:40 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 79
Message-ID: <51tej4$sn6@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14> <323EDDA9.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca> <51rjg8$dq4@news1.svc>
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Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:

>I have a slightly different take on the issue of the disappearing 'good' machine tool 
>manufacturers.
[SNIP]
>The problem here is that while the 'good' lathe supply remains constant, this hobby is 
>growing.  I think this phenomenon is starting to effect the price of the older 'good' 
>lathe.  

My two cents here.  Given that there is now incredibly powerful and
totally automatic CNC equipment available, including EDM  why is it
not possible to build smaller inexpensive, high quality lathes.  Seems
to me that given castings and and NC program or two that a 8"x36"
3/4HP lathe should not be that difficult to build.

Granted,  currently the far east is doing it with 'sweatshop' labour
but I always thought that where North Americans shined was their
ability to work smarter.  Or is it possible that the quality of the
far east equipment is already so high that without $3.00/day labour
North Maericans cannot compete.

Up here in Canada the local hobby shop has a Sherline for just under
$1000Cdn.  I can get a much larger, and just as good, I think, lathe
for $500Cdn more.  Granted,  not as portable but overall I think a
better deal.

Gingery's lathe seems to fit much of the size criteria,  7"x24" with
threading capabilities.  Ie:  Large diameter for those odd sized
projects and no more than 20" between centers.  That size lathe, using
automobile tapered roller bearings in a iron or bronze casting with a
one piece cast iron bed with NC machined and ground V ways cannot be
that expensive to manufacture, can it???

The Far east Combination Lathe/Mill machines seem to also fit that
criteria for size but is the workmanship there?  I bought a Delta
Unisaw because I liked the quality and the service.  General canme
really close but was $300Cdn more and service was questionable.  The
far east table saws wern't in the running.

So here perhaps a challenge.  Most people involved in this newsgroup
probably spend some time doing quotations or manufacturing stuff made
with Lathes, mills, shapers, welding equipment, laser or plasma
cutters etc.;  the new computer controlled variety.

Lets do the work here to determine,  given a set of properly designed
and well built patterns and premanufactured items like hand cranks
etc., what it would cost to manufacture a high quality lathe.  

The specifications should be the first subject for discussion.  I
think about 7"x24" should be adequate for most hobby applications.

Single phase power, 220 or 110.  

Power feed -  power cross feed too?  Lets put a quote together for
either one or both.

Taper roller bearings large enough so the hollow spindle can hold 1"
CRS and standard thread on spindle so that off-the-shelf three and
four jaw chucks can be used.  It does mean that a standard three or
four step pulley cannot be used on the spindle but a simple casting
and an NC lathe should be able to inexpensively turn out these types
of pulleys.  Or do we want a #3 Morse taper in the spindle and slighly
smaller stock holding capabilities?

Will Delrin or equivelent plastic gears be adequate for speed changes
and leadscrew threadcutting forces or must they be aluminum or stee?

Surely there must be enough engineering and manufacturing expertise
here in this forum to specify and design such a beast.

John.


Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35059 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netrix.com!holder
From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 01:24:36 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <51srok$2am@newshost.netrix.com>
References: <51meqt$jj3@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> <323ef71f.512042706@news.islandnet.com>
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Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
: Alan Heldman (posting as congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.))?) wrote:

: >I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
: >six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and
: >doubtless has a hard skin and hard spots throughout.  Should I attempt
: >it with a cobalt steel drill, or a solid carbide? 
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  If I owned a 3/8 or 1/2" solid carbide drill with 6" flute length, I'd
sell it and buy a nicer car.

[snip]

Bruce


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35060 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:31:37 GMT
Organization: InterNex Information Services 1-800-595-3333
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Since aluminum is widely used in aviation, you probably could find a
book at your local flight shop (almost all airports have one, even the
dinky local ones) that discusses metal prep & etch (alodyne). Remember
that on the aluminum on planes, they are very concerned about preventing
corrosion, which makes me think that what ever prep & paint steps they
use on aircraft is probably the most advanced and thorough you could
want.

Garfield


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35061 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infinex.com!news1.isp.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!viper.inow.com!newshub.internex.net!newshub1.internex.net!masters0.news.internex.net!usenet
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:31:42 GMT
Organization: InterNex Information Services 1-800-595-3333
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3241675c.153126080@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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Since aluminum is widely used in aviation, you probably could find a
book at your local flight shop (almost all airports have one, even the
dinky local ones) that discusses metal prep & etch (alodyne). Remember
that on the aluminum on planes, they are very concerned about preventing
corrosion, which makes me think that what ever prep & paint steps they
use on aircraft is probably the most advanced and thorough you could
want.

Garfield


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep 27 16:06:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35062 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!nntp!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!hanrahan
From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSC Sales Flyers Was: ENCO & DECEPTIVE PRACTICES
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:07:27 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <hanrahan.203.3241A7FF@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <32364B68.643E@interaccess.com> <felice.211.323781C9@pioneer.net>
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In article <felice.211.323781C9@pioneer.net> felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) writes:

>ENCO pretty much lost my business for this reason, having sent me about three
>separate packages containing separate carbide bits, days apart. I use MSC right
>now, although they never send me their sales flyers...

The first year I had an account with MSC I either received the sales flyer 
later than others or skipped some. I don't know if it is intentional or not.
Lately however, I sometimes receive it a day or two before the same people who 
used to get it before me!

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:06:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35063 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com!usenet
From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 12:02:49 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <51rcp9$jan@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
References: <Dxr76x.580@uicc.com> <09960816065209.OUI99.SLogan@gnn.com>
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Scott... I think he's saying his saddle is lifting in
the rear. This isn't a problem (THIS isn't a problem)
with his cross-slide or compound. He's talking about
the two gib screws in the back. The ones that distort
that steel plate gib.

I'd be curious if you think there are problems with
the suggestions I posted on this.

/Charlie

>
>Something doesn't sound right here.  I've seen Logan 10" Lathes take a
>1" deep cut (turning) in steel, admittedly a very light feed, but this
>is how they used to show them off at machine tool shows.
>
>You say "those two screws"; on the cross slide, there should be 4
>screws, and on the compound, 3 screws.  Also, do you have cone point
>screws? If you are using standard cup point, they will tend to hit the
>gib at the top, and cock the gib. Cone points will hit in the middle. 



From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:06:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35064 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSC Catalog
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:39:14 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32415B12.4B2A@worldnet.att.net>
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Just received my MSC catalog,all I can say is WOW!!This thing is HUGE!
When I called the nice lady said "yes,we'll send that right out UPS"
UPS??couldn't quite understand that at the time,but now I suspect it's 
because of the lawsuits from herniated postmen!!
 One question,since I seem to be in their "one-day" delivery area,why 
did it take a week to get the catalog?Got several others via snail-mail
faster!
 If a person can't get along with this one catalog in the garage,you 
want something you can't have!!


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.BSDI.COM!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip39.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:30:19 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <felice.230.3241F3AA@pioneer.net>
References: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960919152918.4369E-100000@spork.callamer.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip39.pioneer.net
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they were  intended originally to fit in a 1/2 straight spindle hole, in 
blacksmith's drilling posts, I belive.

In article <Pine.GSO.3.95.960919152918.4369E-100000@spork.callamer.com> Steve 
Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org> writes:>From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
>Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
>Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:30:44 -0700

>They are the cut down shaft type of drill bit. All typically have the
>shaft cut down to 1/2" diameter. I think originally silver  and demming
>was a trade name, that has stuck though the ages....

>Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
>           Steve Herrick

>On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Roy Robinson wrote:

>> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
>> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
>> 
>> 




From megpage@tyrell.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!tyrell.net!news
From: megpage@tyrell.net (Joe Page)
Subject: Steam Engine Photos - stu91a.jpg (0/1)
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ttyuf.tyrell.tyrell.net
Message-ID: <Dy0Dx0.F0M@tyrell.net>
Sender: news@tyrell.net (*)
Organization: Tyrell Corporation - 800-TYRELL-1 - POP's in 504/816/913/316
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:16:29 GMT
Lines: 4

Let me know if you like the photo!  

Joe Page



From megpage@tyrell.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!tyrell.net!news
From: megpage@tyrell.net (Joe Page)
Subject: Steam Engine Photos, Try #2! - stu92a.jpg (1/1)
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ttyuf.tyrell.tyrell.net
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:21:52 GMT
Lines: 4640

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M`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`
.****`"BBB@`HHHH`_]G9
`
end


From frwillia@www.ptw.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <324212EE.7E8C@www.ptw.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:43:42 -0700
From: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
References: <3237B0CE.63EE@ultranet.com> <51a850$1qg@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51d4th$28v@test-sun.erols.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!mothra.westworld.com!

Reginald barron wrote:
> 
> jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) wrote:
> >I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
> >missing?
> >
> >Mill
> 
> If you grind them long ways on
> the diagonal, they make good
> home made reamers.
> 
> Reg Barron

I have two .375" drill blanks that I use to measure "V" ways - I got 
started doing this while measuring the ways for the cross slide I 
machined for my South Bend 9" Lathe.  Their diameter seems to be very 
closely controlled, and the two I have are dead streight which has also 
been useful a time or two.  Other than that ... not many uses for them.  
But the reamer idea sounds good.

Fitch


From nicol@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!iol!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.enteract.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tool Post Grinder
Date: 20 Sep 1996 03:40:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <01bba6a5$139ea7c0$35cfb7c7@johnnico>
NNTP-Posting-Host: prn-nj1-21.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 19  8:40:51 PM PDT 1996
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
can be had for under $200.

Why don't we make up a wooden pattern and have a dozen main bodies cast up?
 If we can agree on which bearings to use :).  I would'nt mind putting in a
little CAD time to help draw it up.  Any takers?

John Nicol			jnicol@ix.netcom.com





From hagemann@execpc.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35070 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!fpm0451
From: hagemann@execpc.com (John P. Hagemann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Small Forge
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 19:37:06 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <51mulc$3g4e@news.doit.wisc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: fpm0293.fpm.wisc.edu
X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.0 Beta #2

I'm looking for a small coal forge.  Something simple is fine.  One with a 
stand and blower would be nice, but not necessary.  I just want to do some 
basic blacksmithing.  I'm located in Southern Wisconsin.  I'm willing to 
travel to pickup or pay for shipping.  If you've got something, drop me a note 
with your price.  Thanks in advance for any replies.

John P. Hagemann   hagemann@execpc.com


From vcatalfo@wwonline.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35071 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.pcslink.com!news9.agis.net!agis!news4.agis.net!agis!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news3.buffnet.net!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!news.wwonline.com!wwonline.com
From: vcatalfo@wwonline.com (Vince Catalfo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: electoplating components
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 11:19:25 -0400
Organization: Adamo Research and Engineering Ltd
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <09-19-1996.10275@wwonline.com>
References: <pdbsf+-1209961346450001@gtx.neurobio.pitt.edu> <51aspa$7fd@wolfe.wimsey.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ts05p16.wwonline.com
X-MKSIA-SN: WWO24

In article <51aspa$7fd@wolfe.wimsey.com> 
mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser) writes:
>Try a Jewelry wholesaler.  Should be one in your town, look in
>yellow pages - sometimes under watches or clocks, as well.  For 
>small qty, maybe you can "borrow" a little from a jeweler.
>
>
>Silver about 12.00/qt, gold about 25.00/oz.  Have no idea how
>many grams of Ag or Au in each, but should go a littel ways....
>
>/mark
>
>Paul Baker (pdbsf+@pitt.edu) wrote:
>: Hope this is the appropriate news group for this question... I'd like to
>: try electroplating silver (or maybe zinc/tin) onto steel.  I'm familiar
>: with the theory, I just can't seem to find a sources for electrolytes. 
>: Can someone refer me to a distributor ? 
>
>: Thanks in advance,
>
>: Paul Baker
>: pdbsf+@pitt.edu
I have a bunch of left over solution, I had to buy a bunch of solution 
for my own work. If your interested in part of it cheap let me know. I 
have copper solution, and nickel solution. I use it on steel. First I 
put a coat of copper on. Then a coat of nickel. This is the best 
corrosion protection I found I can get. It also is buffable if you want 
"shine". If you put the nickel on this it has a nice grey-silver lustre 
to it.

vcatalfo@wwonline.com


From vcatalfo@wwonline.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35072 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.pcslink.com!news9.agis.net!agis!news4.agis.net!agis!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news3.buffnet.net!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!news.wwonline.com!wwonline.com
From: vcatalfo@wwonline.com (Vince Catalfo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 11:46:14 -0400
Organization: Adamo Research and Engineering Ltd
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <09-19-1996.10277@wwonline.com>
References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ts05p16.wwonline.com
X-MKSIA-SN: WWO24

In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> Pat Kelley 
<manaret@flash.net> writes:
>I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
>surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
>surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something 
as
>commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
>magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
>cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
>this?
>
>-- 
>///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
>    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
>              http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
>\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Titanium is a huge Russian industry. At their level Ti is worth only 
$2-3.00 per lb. This is cheaper than stainless steel. Also Ti is 
extremely, stiff, its also very light, stonger than steel, and easy to 
machine. All this makes it right for the application. Also these are 
probably military suplus parts......




From hollen@vigra.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35073 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-2.sprintlink.net!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:47:01 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <ncpw3ivzii.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.254.9.2
In-Reply-To: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com's message of 19 Sep 96 15:20:06 GMT
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1

>> Jay McMunn writes:

JM> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a
JM> .22rf Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have
JM> any input on these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter
JM> project, he has a nice machine shop and does nice work.

Don't let anyone raise the "machine gun" ruse, a gatling gun is not
one.  However, without a FFL (Federal Firearms License) and one of the
proper class for *manufacturing* it is illegal to build a firearm of
any kind other than black powder.  The part of the firearm considered
illegal to manufacture without the FFL is the receiver.  Best
suggestion is to take this discussion over to rec.guns as well as
there will be some very knowledgeable people there about the legal
ramifications of this project.  However, there will be some very good
"machining" advice here.

dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Fri Sep 27 16:07:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35074 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.sgi.com!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!aux.stedwards.edu!admin.stedwards.edu!rays
From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: 18 Sep 1996 18:10:07 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <51pdtv$quc@aux.stedwards.edu>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com> <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico> <323f73bf.543946936@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.214.144.2
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
: "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:


: >I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
: >junk car and going from there.

: I would like to also know if this will work ... I was thinking along
: the same lines except I was going to spend the $18 (Canadian) for a
: set of new trailer bearings. I am a little concerned as to how
: accurate these bearings are or if there will be all kinds of runout
: making the whole thing useless.

: Jens


It would seem to me that the wheel bearings would not be designed for the
kind of speed you would need.  I used the spindle bearing from an old
"washing machine" disk drive, and the DC motor from a large tape drive
for mine.  I have not finished the control for the motor so I have only
used it a relatively slow speeds so far.  Works good for running drills
and small end mills.  Don't know about a grinding wheel.




From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:07:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35075 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!news.memphis.edu!dazzle.etsu-tn.edu!cpk-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
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References: <51nq4g$419@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:29:34 GMT
Lines: 29


I used to gap the points in my cars with my thumbnail!  



In a previous article, dufq80a@aol.com (DUFQ80A) says:

>aol.com!not-for-mail
>From: dufq80a@aol.com (DUFQ80A)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
>Date: 17 Sep 1996 23:26:08 -0400
>Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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>Reply-To: dufq80a@aol.com (DUFQ80A)
>NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
>
>Deja vue all over again!  Thats how foot, yard, rod, link, stone,
>pennyweight etc.
>all started, isn't it?
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35076 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!swrinde.nde.swri.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!newshub.cts.com!news7.crl.com!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:11:41 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32417ECD.404A@ldl.net>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb.di <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51mo57$sd@aphex.direct.ca> <wlbrownDxw7EC.F8H@netcom.com> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201049.26401A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>
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Jeffrey Prothero wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, William L. Brown Jr. wrote:
> 
> > Somebody (for whatever reason!) wrote:
> > > I think however if you wish to continue with the  "inch-lb-sec system",
> > > new hybrid units  called the Kilo-gallon and Mega-gallon should be
> > > proposed.
> >
> > Actually, in that range we use acrefeet.
> >
> And in between we use barrels and hogsheads.
>                 Cheers,

And demijohns, firkins and tuns....

...{snrkle}...

				Jack



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:07:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35077 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
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References: <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico> <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:26:39 GMT
Lines: 52


Taper roller bearings are not the best thing for a toolpost grinder.  The 
speeds are way too high.  Get some angular contact bearings, also sold as 
magneto bearings.  These can be run in excess of 10,000 RPM .



In a previous article, nicol@ix.netcom.com ("John Nicol") says:

>peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.enteract.com!ix.netcom.com!news
>From: "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
>Date: 18 Sep 1996 02:30:26 GMT
>Organization: Netcom
>Lines: 24
>Message-ID: <01bba509$58a33400$22cfb7c7@johnnico>
>References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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>X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155
>
>
>
>Russ Kepler <russ@bbxrbk.basis.com> wrote in article
><Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com>...
>> In article <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu>,
>> Almus Kenter <kenter@flashman.harvard.edu> wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure what you mean about accessories - you might need change
>> gears and a thread dial indicator, a toolpost grinder, an indexing
>> attachment, etc.  Most of that you should put off until a real need
>> arises.  Much can be made - I've made quite a bit for my little 12x36
>> Atlas.
>> 
>I have the same lathe and am contemplating making a toolpost grinder.  By
>any chance is this one of the things that you made?  If so I would be
>grateful for any details that you could provide on how to build one.  
>
>I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings out of a
>junk car and going from there.
>
>John Nicol		jnicol@ix.netcom.com
>
> 
> 
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From gord-gil@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35078 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.enteract.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: gord-gil@ix.netcom.com (Randy Gordon-Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 20 Sep 1996 05:25:53 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
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References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <felice.225.323F744C@pioneer.net> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960918233108.888I-100000@spork.callamer.com>
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In article <Pine.GSO.3.95.960918233108.888I-100000@spork.callamer.com>, 
sherrick@slonet.org said...

>I've seen spec for titanium, 1/5 the weight of steel (aluminum is 1/3)

Actually, titanium is about 2/3 the density of steel.  Still gives impressive 
strength-to-weight ratios, though, for the heat-treatable grades.

Randy
--
gord-gil@ix.netcom.com ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
Randy Gordon-Gilmore  // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
Benicia, CA, USA     /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
                                  -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Fri Sep 27 16:07:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35079 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 18 Sep 1996 20:10:27 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <51pkvj$j5h@tin.monsanto.com>
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kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Roger, you should be able to contact Keller Industries at:
>
>Rt. 1, Box 184
>Hollandale, MN
>        56045
>
>Phone: 507-889-3416  or 800-338-1295
>
>Regards,
>
>Chuck
**********************************************
Chuck,

Special thanks for the number--I called and Keller has already faxed me all the info 
I need. They seem like nice folks to deal with.

One of the nicest things about this group is that no matter how obscure the 
question, there is usually someone out there who knows the answer and is willing to 
share it.

Thanks again,

Roger Weppelman





From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:07:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35080 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Half-Reamer, Info Needed!
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 00:35:52 +0100
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P.Feist writes
>Hi; 
>
>   I'm looking for information on how to make a "Half-Reamer". A
>Half-Reamer is a reamer (naturally..) that is made with only one "Flute".
>It is simply a cylinder of the appropriate taper or shape with half of its
>diameter removed to provide a cutting edge.
>   I had a chance to examine a half reamer several years ago, but didn't
>have any background on cutting tool geometry, releif angles, etc. Now that
>I do, I don't know how the thing was relieved to cut!

I know this as a 'D-bit'.

It is, as you say, semicircular in cross-section.  The business end has
about 5 degrees front and side clearance.  There is no rake or relief,
but it still cuts - after a fashion. 
-- 
Charles


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:07:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35081 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: spring winding
Date: 18 Sep 1996 19:11:41 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
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In article <5111b1$gbd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2) says:
>
>I have recently reviewed Kozo Hiraoka's article in an early HSM on spring
>winding, preparing to make a spring I need. he stipulates the use of cold
>drawn steel music wire. I have searched the MSC catalog, and do not find
>cold drawn music wire listed. I have a bit of music wire that I bought at
>a good local hardware store, and have tried to wind spring with it, but
>find it does not retain its dimension. i.e., a compression spring quickly
>becomes short and compacted.
>
>I seem to recall something about hardening and tempering springs, but
>can't recall where I saw it. My question is: Do springs made of "common"
>music wire requier haredning, and do you do it the usual way, by heating
>to a bright red, quenching and then heating again to a lower temperature?
>
>Any help apreciated.
>
>Roy Rice.
###########################################################################

Dal Wagner replies:
 
Roy
The diameter of your mandrel won't have too much effect on the performance 
of the spring. If it expands 1/64 or 1/32 or 1/16 when removed from that 
mandrel the effect on spring characteristics is marginal unless your working 
with a very small outside diameter springs .
As a matter of fact if the spring expands the problem you experienced with 
compacting would be improved not made worse. Commercially this is not 
desirable because customers require their springs to be a specific sizes and 
within certain tollerances for obvious reasons.
 
Heat treatment is necessary to remove the residual stresses aquired by the 
spring when it was wrapped around the mandrel. This is particularly true for 
tightly wrapped small ouside diameter springs with relatively large wire 
sizes. The lack of heat treatment shouldn't effect the compacting of the 
spring. It is however necessary to prolong the life of the spring and if 
longevity is important the heat treatment must be done. It is done 
commercially almost without question.
The fact that your spring is permenantly "setting", you refer to this as 
"shortening and compacting", is caused by one condition only. The loads are 
too high for the spring you have produced. 
 
Every type of spring material you select, and there are many of them, have a 
limit to the amount of "twisting stress" you can place on them. As strange 
as it might appear, the wire in a compression spring is not exposed to a 
bending action when a load is placed on it. If you could look at a cross 
section through the wire you would in fact see the wire twisting or being 
"torqued". 
Compression springs fail when the twisting torque you place on this wire 
produces a stress that is greater than a value we call the  "ultimate shear 
strength" of that wire. Each different type of wire has a different value 
for this "ultimate shear strength." Once you exceed the value of this stress 
the spring will partially collapse and will never return to it's original 
length. This is what is happening to your spring.

When you design a spring however you don't even want to come close to this 
ultimate value unless your spring is being designed for a single shot 
application where weight and size are paramount. Because you want to avoid 
these high stresses, designers have a "safe allowable shear stress" that 
they design to. This design value is much lower than that nasty ultimate 
shear stress. To complicate matters this value is not the same for each
 material selected. The safe value changes depending on the type of service 
the spring will be exposed to such as LIGHT, AVERAGE, or SEVERE. It also 
changes with  every different wire diameter selected. 
Hope I'm not losing you! It isn't something easy to understand nor to write 
about.	

The following conditions can cause a spring to "set":

1. The wire diameter is too small.
2. The spring outside diameter is too small.
3. The spring material is not tough enough i.e higher value of ultimate 
   shear strength required.
4. Two few coils in your spring.  Working coils equally share the loads. 
   More coils means less load per coil.
5. The spring is being compressed too far.

Any of the above 5 items can be changed. Changes however have a ripple 
effect that effects many of the other characteristics of a spring.
Example
If you increase the wire diameter, the spring will give more force for the
same deflection but because you changed the wire diameter the allowable 
stress you can put on the wire increases but not proportionately. 
(Trust me this does mean something)

All of the conditions that make for a good spring work in concert. You  
simply cannot change one parameter of the spring without paying a price 
somewhere else.
You would have to be extremely lucky to come up with a workable spring 
simply by experimentation.
  
Many large spring companies actually have catalogues for their "stock" 
compression springs that if you wish you can order single unit quantities. 
You may pay $15 for that single spring but it's cheaper than paying a setup 
charge at a custom spring manufacturer, and from the sounds of things, a lot 
cheaper than winding one in your basement. 
Once you get a suitable prototype you can make your own and wind away for 8 
hours down in your basement. ( Don't forget that  heat treatment). I guess 
it totally depends on how many springs you want.

The information required to properly design a spring is as follows:

1. In the springs initial operating position do you require any 
   precompression on the spring. If so how many pounds . If you don't 
   require precompression the force on the spring in this position will be 
  zero.
2. What is the required length of the spring when it is in it's initial 
   operating position.
3. In the springs final compressed position how many pounds force should the 
   spring produce?
4. In the final compressed  position what should the spring length be?
5. Do you have a preference for an inside or outside diameter and if so what 
   is this dimension.
6. Do you have a material preference. Normally cost is the consideration and 
   the cheapest material    to do the job is used. You can't always get your 
   preference however . Music wire for instance has a limit to the maximum 
   wire diameter that is produced.
  Spring materials that are typically available more or less in order of 
  cost are:
  ASTM A229 Steel oil tempered
  ASTM A228 Music wire
  ASTM A227 Hard draw steel
  ASTM A401 Chrome silicon
  ASTM A313 Stainless 302
  ASTM A231 Chrome Vanadium
7. The type of ends you wish on your spring i.e ground and squared ends, 
  plain ends, plain ends ground, and squared ends.

If you want to send me answers to 1 through 7 privately by e-mail I'll
return you a spring specification that will work for your application. I 
have written windows based, object oriented sofware for this application 
that permits me to input the above items and get an answers immediately. I 
use the sofware strickly for my own purposes . It isn't for sale.

Had a look at that basic spring program  someone mentioned in another thread 
related too this article. Wasn't aware that MicroSoft still ships GWBasic, 
QuickBasic or what ever it is now called along with the DOS package any more. 
I didn't look at the program in too much detail but have the following 
comments: 

It would appear that this program does calculate the maximum stress on the 
spring wire but it doesn't indicate if that stress level is safe.
If using that program I would advise investigating if, for the wire size, 
material and service factor selected that the  maximum stress that it 
calculates is in fact lower than the allowable stress. If you don't you 
might have some more "flatened springs" that won't recover. 
The Constant called "G" found within the first few lines of this program 
represents a value called the Shear Modulus of the spring material. The 
value for music wire is questionable and the value for the generic material 
called "spring wire" is probably an average figure for several different 
materials.

Hope my discussion assisted more than it confussed.

Regards,



Dal Wagner


From johnh@netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35082 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!netcom.com!johnh
From: johnh@netcom.com (john haskey)
Subject: FS: HSM Back Issues
Message-ID: <johnhDy0nxK.Bwq@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 05:44:08 GMT
Lines: 22
Sender: johnh@netcom12.netcom.com

I've got the following (7) issues of Home Shop Machinist I'd like to
unload:

Jan/Feb '88
May/Jun '95
Jul/Aug '95
Sep/Oct '95
Nov/Dec '95
Jan/Feb '96
Mar/Apr '96


I was thinking maybe $25 for the stack post paid (assuming I can ship for
a coupla' bucks) or *YOUR* best offer...  Please advise...

							---john.

-- 
---
johnh@netcom.com
Proud owner of a II/8 Balcom & Vaughn and an Allen Models 0-4-2T
Visit my *embryonic* home page at http://www.netcom.com/~johnh


From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:07:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35083 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!news
From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,van.general
Subject: Re: Retail metal/hardware suppliers in Vancouver BC?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 19:35:10 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
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Message-ID: <51pite$728@aphex.direct.ca>
References: <51c27l$5hr@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+

In article <51c27l$5hr@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>, shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca (Tim Shoppa) says:
>
>Anyone care to recommend any retail metal/hardware suppliers in
>Vancouver BC?  At the moment, what I need is some 17/64" drill
>rod, a 20-foot length of CRS angle (1.5 x 1.5 x 3/16"),
>and a couple dozen metric socket screws.  I'm met by blank
>stares in the retail hardware stores I've asked in, and the local
>industrial-sort suppliers won't talk to me unless I'm ordering
>hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.  I know of a half-dozen
>places in the US that'll mail me the stuff, but I'd end up paying
>much more in shipping and customs fees than the material is worth.
>(Shipping 20-foot lengths of angle stock is particularly not a good 
>idea.)  Any recommendations?
>
>Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)

You might try Paine Hardware in North Vancouver.

They are the only hardware store that I know of where you can still get
oil lamps, snowshoes and gold panning dishes etc. The nails still come in 
barrels and if you want you can purchase three 6-32x1/4 long brass machine
screws and two number 10 washers without having to buy one of those
blister packs holding 300 of these screws for $30.00.
You can also buy quantity and their prices are usually lower than most 
wholesale places.
They still have the original oil soaked wooden floors with the ceiling
high ladders that roll the length of the store. If your into 
construction and have a licence you can pick up your explosives there at 
the same time you pick up a piece of threaded rod to boot.
Down in the basement they'll let you cut your own piece of angle iron,
saw off 22 ft of 1/2" pipe and pick up a single 90 degree 3/4 pipe elbow
complete with reducer bushings.
Burrard shipyard, when thet were in buisiness, always came to them for 
odds and ends when they could't find things at other stores.
The telephone number for their Industrial hardware is 987-6722
Address is 90 Lonsdale.

No I don't work for them.

Regards

Dal Wagner, West Vancouver




From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35084 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: RE: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 20 Sep 96 01:30:09 -0700
References: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+000034f7@msn.com>
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.msn.com!msn.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 8

Roy Robinson Wrote
>What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
>different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?

Roy,
	D&D bits are reduced shank bits, for instance a 3/4" bit with a 1/2" shank

Charlie


From bwinterb@intranet.ca Fri Sep 27 16:07:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35085 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news.bconnex.net!news2.insinc.net!news.intranet.ca!ppp1-deep
From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs English (Was: Metric system in the USA?)
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 11:12:09 GMT
Organization: Intranet Technologies
Lines: 31
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References: <blake-1409961700060001@206.84.2.91> <51hr0p$m1d@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51kb4e$ee4@nr1.ottawa.istar.net> <323DCC7C.238C@worldnet.att.net>
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>> 
>> Yes, I would like the US to start using the metric system. I'm an
>> American whose been living in Canada for nine months. I've had no
>> problem adjusting to using the metric system.  The hardest part
>> was getting used to the weatherman give the temperatures in
>> degrees celsius.  But I've even gotten used to that.
>> 
>> There are some valid arguments for not changing in the US.
>> The first is cost.  It will be very expensive for the states
>> to have to convert every highway sign reference from
>> miles to kilometers.  Speed limit signs, highway markers,
>> etc would all have to be changed and that's a monumnental
>> task.  Some states have plans in place to implement
>> metrication of their highway signs.  Alabama has gone so far
>> as to replace their existing highway signs with using
>> metric distances, however the metric has been overlayed
>> with miles.  The benefit of this will be that when metric
>> highway signs need to be deployed, all that will be required
>> is that they remove the overlay to expose the metric
>> distance.
>> 
>> Stephen Gallagher
Presumably it's for similar reasons that in the US nails are referred to by 
their price in a currency which has not been legal tender for about 200 years.

Perhaps as a start to metrication they could start measuring nails in mm.

Bruce Winterbon
bwinterb@intranet.ca
http://intranet.ca:80/~bwinterb



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35086 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!news2.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Message-ID: <1996Sep18.085936.953@flying-disk.com>
Date: 18 Sep 96 08:59:36 PDT
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <tik9tybbzj.fsf@java.vlsivie.tuwien.ac.at> <09960813130456.OUI34.SLogan@gnn.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 14

In article <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>, 
gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis) writes:

> There are no measurement units in this system, because, as you can
> see, measurement is not necessary and there are no units of any kind.
> However terms such as "whisker" "skosch" and "bissel" are used when
> doing precision work.

Don't forget the ever-popular RCH.   :-)

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35087 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netrix.com!holder
From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Carbide toolholders
Date: 20 Sep 1996 03:28:04 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 60
Message-ID: <51t304$2am@newshost.netrix.com>
References: <rich_klopp-1809961625110001@128.18.30.31>
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Rich Klopp (rich_klopp@qm.sri.com) wrote:
> I want to buy a carbide insert toolholder or two for my Jet 12" lathe.

[snip]

> Can anyone recommend any one of these over the other? It looks like the
> Borite uses somewhat different inserts. Are the inserts widely available?
> They don't seem to list them according to industry standard codes. (Where
> have I seen an explanation of those codes? They look something like
> "TPMG".) I'd hate to buy something that you can't get inserts for 3 years
> from now. Can I use these same inserts in somebody's boring bar?

  I can't address boring bars specifically, but I had similar questions
about inserts for turning tools. I was looking at a no brand import
line and a no brand USA line on the same catalog page with a prominent
statement that the inserts were not interchangeable. For some reason
lost in the mists of time, I ended up with both kinds off tool holders
and/or both kinds of inserts. YMMV, but in my shop the only detectable
difference was that the screw in one of them seated a little deeper
with the wrong kind of inserts and the screw in the other one seated a
little proud with the wrong kind of inserts.

  "Something like TPMG" is industry standard. It is the generic
terminology prescribed by the ANSI standard for carbide and other kinds
of ultra hard cutting tool inserts. The MSC catalog has many pages of
all kinds of inserts specified by this nomenclature, as well as charts
>from  several manufacturers showing, typically, subsets of the complete
terminology. Machinery's Handbook has a substantial section on carbide
inserts, including a complete description of the generic parts of the
standard, i.e. the parts that are not subject to vendor options.

  TPMG describes a triangular insert with 11 degree clearance angle on
the sides, fairly broad tolerance on the dimensions, and a countersunk
screw hole and chip breakers on both surfaces. An insert with a
non-zero clearance angle and chip breakers on both sides doesn't make
sense, but , for instance, TCMM and TCMT are the two inserts in the
turning tool story above. The trailing M and T denote differences in
the clamping holes, which correspond exactly to the difference I saw
in screw seating depth.

  A quick scan through the MSC catalog showed boring bars that take
TNG, TNU, TPG, TPU, TNMA, TNMG, TDAB, TPGB, TPGH, TPGC, TPMT, TPEE and
TBEE inserts. You may have to do some research to get behind the
vendors' numbering systems, but as far as I can tell, essentially all
of the commercially available carbide inserts fit into this structure
and can be cross referenced. All the vendors would love to get you
locked into their system, but they would also love to take your
business away from whoever you're buying from now, so they typically
provide cross references to make it easy for you to find replacements
for somebody else's inserts.

  As you noted about the Borite boring bars, the Borite lathe tool
holders took a different size insert that may not have a substitute.
That's one reason I didn't buy Borite, along with the fact that they
charge correspondingly more for the inserts and significantly more for
the tool holders. On the other hand, if I had bought Borite, I wouldn't
worry very much about about them going out of business and leaving me
stranded without a supply of inserts.

Bruce


From sld@nikodyne.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35088 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!sld
From: sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 19 Sep 1996 04:44:06 GMT
Organization: nikodyne technologies
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <51qj2m$a44@news0-alterdial.uu.net>
References: <51js8r$d39@scipio.cyberstore.ca> <51l4ic$iac@news.pinc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pool030.max2.atlanta.ga.dynip.alter.net


the owner lives in a huge complex on one of the fashionable hill
sides in bellingham... just drive up and ask him what gives!

In article <51l4ic$iac@news.pinc.com>,rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden)writes:
-> I've got a ridiculous problem that maybe someone can help me with.  I 
-> called Grizzly Imports to request a catalog but when I they found out I 
-> live in Canada, they refused to send me one.
->   "We don't ship anything into Canada, including catalogs," the 
-> receptionist said.
->   "Why not?" I asked.
->   "Because it is our policy."
->   "But what is the reason for the policy?"
->   "The reason for our policy is that it is our policy."
->   I am not making this up.
->   I went around in circles with this woman several times, but could not 
-> get her to send me a catalog, or even explain why not.  The long distance 
-> charges were eating me alive, so I gave in and hung up.
->   I have seen some of their machines for sale in retail shops here (at 
-> 50% mark-up), so perhaps they have some kind of exclusive distribution 
-> arrangement.
->   In their ads in the back of HSM, they list a PO Box in Bellingham as 
-> their western address.  Does anyone know the street address, and if so, is 
-> it possible to stop in and get a catalog there?  I pass through Bellingham 
-> several times a year on business, so it wouldn't be too difficult, 
-> providing they allow walk-in traffic (and they don't find out I'm a 
-> Canadian.)
-- 
Steve Davis <sld@nikodyne.com>**Nikodyne Technologies**Atlanta GA
pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
			  defund.the.left
more laws... we can't imprison enough dissidents without more laws


From avatar@halcyon.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35089 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!nwnews.wa.com!blv-pm2-ip24.halcyon.com!user
From: avatar@halcyon.com (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: 20 Sep 1996 08:28:22 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <avatar-2009960128350001@blv-pm2-ip24.halcyon.com>
References: <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: blv-pm2-ip24.halcyon.com

In article <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>, Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
wrote:

> Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
> fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
> which will be used on "desktop" fountains.
> 


Here are the 2 best leads I can think of:

Herbach & Rademan Co.
401 E. Erie Ave.
Philadelphia, PA  19134
(215) 426-1708


American Science And Surplus
601 Linden Place
Evanston, IL  60202
(708) 475-8440

They both deal in scientific salvage and weird gadgets.

Best of tluck

-- 
*********************************************************************

                            Ernie Leimkuhler

                         STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS

                        Custom Metal Fabrication

         ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488

                        Renton, Washington, USA

*********************************************************************


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35090 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.BSDI.COM!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip39.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 01:28:20 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <felice.229.3241F333@pioneer.net>
References: <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com> <51sc9p$o7o@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
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>In <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
>writes: 


>>
>>#3 - Do you think there is a market for these chucks today?
>> 

I would love a 3/4-16 threaded Jacobs chuck to screw directly onto my Taig 
spindle. All the methods for attaching chucks to small lathes don't allow
feeding material through the spindle, as the thread is usually 3/8 NF. I
also think that this would replace the collet system for many uses. Can you 
get blank bodies from jacobs, which could be altered?



From gary@cdsnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35091 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.magicnet.net!news.cdsnet.net!usenet
From: gary@cdsnet.net (Gary Ingram)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Want manuals:TREE MILL/OMICRON CONTROLLER
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 17:30:49 GMT
Organization: CDS Internet, Medford Oregon
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 Wanted: Maintance manuals for a 1982 vintage TREE JOURNEYMAN 300
milling machine with a OMICRON controller.
 Thanks, Gary



From violette@lightlink.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35092 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news.lightlink.com!usenet
From: violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  (Martin Violette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 21:44:18 GMT
Organization: ART MATRIX - LIGHTLINK
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <51pqfi$ell@majesty.lightlink.com>
References: <323E3AA5.5BBD@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201647.26401B-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>
Reply-To: violette@lightlink.com (Martin Violette)
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In <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201647.26401B-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>, Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> writes:
>
>
>On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, David Baggaley wrote:
>
>> How does one prime aluminum these days? In the bad old days you
>If you can find any chem. film for aluminum, it will provide a surface for
>the primer.  For primers we are using epoxy primer, which also has
>chromates in it.  Zinc Chromate is no longer available in much if not all
>of the industrial supply places.  The epoxy primer is not expected to be
>around much longer.
>
Your comments about epoxies jogged my memory: WEST Systems sell a two-part
aluminum primer useful for prep before epoxies or paint.  Hope this helps. - martin



From megpage@tyrell.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35093 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!tyrell.net!news
From: megpage@tyrell.net (Joe Page)
Subject: Steam Engine Photos - stu91a.jpg (1/1)
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ttyuf.tyrell.tyrell.net
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Sender: news@tyrell.net (*)
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:16:30 GMT
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M4444`%%%%`!1110`#WY'>EXY[#G&/T_"DHH#K?7TZ?\`#A1110`HQWS^%)11
M0`4444`%%%%`!1110`4444`%%%%`!1110`4444`%%%%`!1110`4444`%%%%`
M!1110`4444`%%%%`!1110`4444`%%%%`!1110`JG!_STR"?Y8X(^N,@LS*97
M'EH(`D;1R+(QD:4M*)4>$P@1QJBP%'$KES*ZE(Q&K2N_S_G_`#ST&20#6BO(
MI8_,1;L)OMDVR6&H0R;KM+=XLP36ROL"W,0E<KL@*R+.T30S"/*I.$6E*;BU
M[VB>J3U3LGIW6[+C&3NU%25K:VLFW=-)M:]GT+7OGO\`C]:2FQNTD,<CPO`S
MHC-#)Y9EB9EW-%(T,CQF12<,4=U)!*LRX)=6J=TFMGJB`HHHH`****`"BBB@
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MSG@?I]/:DHHIB"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****
M`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`
M****`"BBB@`HHHH`****`"BBB@`HHHH`4=?IS^(Z=QWZ^WKTHS[?4=CZ<=B.
M>0?UYI**`%SP/4?Y_/H.,#`'<4E%%`!1110`4444`%%%%`!1110`4444`%%%
M%`&A1110>>1R(74`8ZYY^A^OK4/D/ZK^9_PJU10:1J2BK*UO0J^0_JOYG_"C
MR']5_,_X5:HH'[:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_P`*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/\`
MA1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5_,_X
M4>0_JOYG_"K5%`>VGY?<5?(?U7\S_A1Y#^J_F?\`"K5%`>VGY?<5?(?U7\S_
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MS_A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_P`*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?
MS/\`A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5
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M]5_,_P"%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5_,_X4>0_JOYG_"K5%`>VGY?<5?(
M?U7\S_A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_P`*M44![:?E]Q5\
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M5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5_,_X4>0_JOYG_``JU10'MI^7W
M%7R']5_,_P"%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5_,_X4>0_JOYG_"K5%`>VGY?
M<5?(?U7\S_A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_P`*M44![:?E
M]Q5\A_5?S/\`A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^
M7W%7R']5_,_X4>0_JOYG_"K5%`>VGY?<5?(?U7\S_A1Y#^J_F?\`"K5%`>VG
MY?<5?(?U7\S_`(4>0_JOYG_"K5%`>VGY?<5?(?U7\S_A1Y#^J_F?\*M44![:
M?E]Q5\A_5?S/^%'D/ZK^9_PJU10'MI^7W%7R']5_,_X4>0_JOYG_``JU10'M
*I^7W!11109'_V;^N
`
end


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35094 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!sbcntrex!news.eecs.umich.edu!news.sojourn.com!cancer.vividnet.com!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.enteract.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: opinions re logan or bridgrport
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:39:28 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32422000.4299@ix.netcom.com>
References: <51scsl$iu2@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; U)
CC: kevrhods@ix.netcom.com

tom bean wrote:
> 
> would like advice on the value of a logan model#825 lathe (10"x30") i'm
> a complete novice without a clue. it is in reasonable condition and
> includes a rest and a small number of tools. would this be a sensible
> lathe to learn with? would a bridgeport of similar size cost as much?
> also, what name brand mill\drill with a single phase motor would be
> worth looking for? thanks for the help.

I just bought a lathe.  A South Bend 9x36.  I looked at a Logan and would 
have bought it had it been in better condition.

Do yourself a favor.  Get a book out of the library and do some reading. 
 I did and am very glad for it.  It took a lot of the mystery out of it. 
 This newsgroup is also a tremendous help.  I have really appreciated the 
 generous responses to my questions.

Another bit of advice.  Don't buy the first one you find.  At least not 
right away.  You won't have any basis for comparison.  As Dave Ficken 
responded, geography will play into the price.  I am somewhat fortunate 
in that I am near Cincinnati and it's just a machine tool kind of town.  
So there was a fairly good selection.  Good luck.


From korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu Fri Sep 27 16:07:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35095 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!news.tju.edu!ppp7.ppp.tju.edu!user
From: korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu (eric korenman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:39:43 -0700
Organization: Thomas Jefferson University
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <korenma1-2009960739430001@ppp7.ppp.tju.edu>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu> <51d6it$co2@news-e2c.gnn.com> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960916085854.8930D-100000@clarion.korrnet.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp7.ppp.tju.edu

Someone recommended 'Japan Oil' paints
I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
Ever heard of this?

thanks

`On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, MARK CENTER wrote:
`
`> Dupont Imron is the toughest stuff I have ever seen. $50/quart and extremely 
`> poisonous.
`> 
`> I like Rustoleum. You can get it at Walmart $6.00/quart
`> Laquer paint is hard to obtain and illegal in California.
`> 
`Imron is a tough polyurethane coating that is alos brittle.....enamel
`based paints are much more flexible than urethanes & cheaper & less
`volatile too!> >

-- 
Eric Korenman
korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu


From gilmore@korrnet.org Fri Sep 27 16:07:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35096 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!utk.edu!clarion.korrnet.org!gilmore
From: Gary L Lawson <gilmore@korrnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CEBORA  POCKET MIG WELDER PARTS SOURCE
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:15:10 -0400
Organization: University of Tennessee
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.960920091156.555A-100000@clarion.korrnet.org>
References: <323D9FBA.B25@nettally.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: clarion.korrnet.org
Mime-Version: 1.0
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To: "Stephen L. Ford" <sford@nettally.com>
In-Reply-To: <323D9FBA.B25@nettally.com>



On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Stephen L. Ford wrote:

> I have a Cebora mig welder, called a pocket mig item 883/p made in
> Bologlia Italy, in which I am in need of a new feeder tube and maybe a
> drive wheel.  Could anybody give me some help on finding a supplier.
> Please answer on my e-mail
> 
> sford@nettally.com
> 
> thanks:  Stephen
>  > 
> Stephen...Daytona Mig in Daytona  Beach, Fla. sells these welders as
well as all necessary replacement parts....Mailing Address is  1821
Holsonback Drive....Daytona Beach, Fla..32117
 > 



From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35097 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:22:53 -0500
Organization: honeywell
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32429AAD.2AEE@htc.honeywell.com>
References: <324100DD.1F58@flash.net> <51rt3q$pvo@chaos.aoc.nrao.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: green-123.htc.honeywell.com
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Bruce Rowen wrote:
> 
> In article <324100DD.1F58@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> writes:
> >Kirk Hays wrote:
> 
> >
> >   I've already had several Email requests for this. Call "The
> >Edge Company" at 800-732-9976, and ask for a catalog. The
> >catalog's pretty interesting itself, though with a lot of
> >odd junk in it. I've seen them a couple of other places,
> >but I've discarded the catalogs. Also, I have no idea how
> >"amazing" the crowbar is; for all I know, it's a factory
> >reject. One thing that an earlier poster said makes sense;
> >I seem to dimly remember, now, that Russia is a major source of
> >titanium, so perhaps it's not as exotic as it seems to me.
> 
> If I remember my HS chemistry correctly, Titanium is the 4th
> most common element behind oxygen, carbon, and silicon.
> A real nightmare to process though!
> 
> >
> >--
> >///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> >               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)

> --
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bruce Rowen                             National Radio Astronomy Observatory

I used to work for a guy who had worked for a titanium metal supply company before.  He said indeed there 
is much titanium in the world (as well as other supposedly rare materials).  But the economics of 
processing it is interesting.  A given source and process is only economical or uneconomical compared to 
other sources and processes.  If you have a mine that costs a bit more to extract metal from than the next 
guy, your source is uneconomical!  

So yes, there is much titanium in the world. But as long as you can buy it from other people who can sell 
it for low prices, these newer sources will not be processed.
-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis


From EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH Fri Sep 27 16:07:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35098 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!EU.net!CERN.ch!news
From: Janos ERO <EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH>
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: pccnce106.cern.ch
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Message-ID: <32428D02.1F18@MAIL.CERN.CH>
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References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <511qe2$gou@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca> <blake-1409961700060001@206.84.2.91> <51ncvf$ap9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 12:24:34 GMT
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01Gold (Win95; I)
Lines: 19

Peter Brooks wrote:

> I got used to having two sets of wrenches
> years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly
> well.....

Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.
Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric 
system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric world 
too. But unfortunately, I don't know why, the bike manufacturers use wrench sizes 
different from the metric standard: 

Screw      Standard      Bike
M5           8mm          9mm
M6          10mm         11mm
M8          13mm         15mm

And the japanese manufacturers aren't better. My Toyota needs for his M8 screws a 12mm 
wrench ! (Fortunately included in the toolbox.)


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35099 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re-gringding lathe bed
Date: 20 Sep 1996 13:30:01 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <51u68p$1b39@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: jrro@watson.ibm.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: moler.watson.ibm.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2

In <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>, "William J. Graf Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>I have a South Bend 9" lathe and am thinking of getting the ways
>reground and a new or better tailstock as the one on it is worn
>and I have to use shims to get it parallel with the head.  I
>used two centers, one in the head stock and one in the tail
>stock to line them up, is that the correct way?  I live in the
>Cleve. Ohio area and would like to know if anyone knows of a
>company that can re-grind the ways and approximate cost.  The
>bed is approx. 3 ft. in length.  Thanks in advance.
>Bill

I investigated this subject a while ago, and the conclusions I came to
were:  It is hard to find anyone with a surface grinder this large to
do the job for an amount of money that a home hobby machinst
would pay.  Plus when you are done, the underside of the saddle 
and the tailstock and the headstock would all have to be either 
re-ground or hand scraped. 

The saddle needs to be re-worked because it has worn to the shape
of the (worn) bed, and the tailstock has to be done because you 
*do* want to throw away those shims, right?  And when you are
done with that, the hole in the spindle is about 1/8 inch higher than
the hole in the tailstock - so it needs to be done, too.

As was pointed out to me by several people I had contacted, this
is a lot of work, and a lot of money if you pay to have it done.  
When you are all finished, you have learned a lot (don't get me
wrong, this a great way to learn, if that's your objective) but you 
still have a lathe which is a bit lacking.  

All of the older SB lathes I've seen have that shim under the tailstock - 
It does the job, and the worn bed is not a problem if you aren't trying
to turn within a thousanth over 3 or 4 inches of length.  If you are,
then you really need to get a better machine - re-working your 
existing one probably will be unsatisfactory in the end.  

These older machines are great to learn on - and I think they are passed
down from one machine student to the next.  Some folks improve them
and pass them on, others beat the poor lathe up before getting rid of 
it.  They are a kind of legacy from the industrial age between the 30's
and 40s in the US.  My 9" had the War Production Board sticker on 
it still, and had clearly been used in a production environment.   After
working for the war effort, it has gone on to train at least 3 individuals
that I know of.

I wonder what will happen when the last molecule of steel on these
lathes is worn away - will the interest in hobby metalworking 
evaporate as well?

Bottom line:  Consider trading up.  Sell the 9" to somebody starting 
out, and shop for a bigger, more rigid, more accurate machine. 

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:07:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35100 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <Dy0x02.Jvp@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <01bba6a5$139ea7c0$35cfb7c7@johnnico>  
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:00:02 GMT
Lines: 28


There is no need for castings.  Over the years Model Engineer published 
several designs.  I am going to design one using bar stock, around 
available materials ( Read junk ).


In a previous article, nicol@ix.netcom.com ("John Nicol") says:

>It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
>grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
>uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
>tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
>can be had for under $200.
>
>Why don't we make up a wooden pattern and have a dozen main bodies cast up?
> If we can agree on which bearings to use :).  I would'nt mind putting in a
>little CAD time to help draw it up.  Any takers?
>
>John Nicol			jnicol@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu Fri Sep 27 16:07:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35101 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.ums.edu!umabnet.ab.umd.edu!umabnet.ab.umd.edu!deinhorn
From: David Einhorn <deinhorn@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:25:26 -0400
Organization: University of Maryland at Baltimore
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <Pine.A32.3.94.960920082353.78119A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: umabnet.ab.umd.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
To: Jay McMunn <jmcmun@digital-cafe.com>
In-Reply-To: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net>

One other possibility is to build one from the original government 
specifications.  You might try calling Don Lutz, at Anitique Ordnance
Publishers for a copy of the specifications, at 810-987-7749


On 19 Sep 1996, Jay McMunn wrote:

> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
> Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
> these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
> machine shop and does nice work.
> 
> thanx,
> 
> Jay, North Idaho
> 
> 



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35102 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!neptune.gan.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!blixen.aquilagroup.com!news
From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: Priming Aluminum
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 14:44:14 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <51sb18$pmh@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
References: <32414E3D.6693@htc.honeywell.com> <3241675c.153126080@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: thoreau.aquilagroup.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.38

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:

>Since aluminum is widely used in aviation, you probably could find a
>book at your local flight shop (almost all airports have one, even the
>dinky local ones) that discusses metal prep & etch (alodyne). Remember
>that on the aluminum on planes, they are very concerned about preventing
>corrosion, which makes me think that what ever prep & paint steps they
>use on aircraft is probably the most advanced and thorough you could
>want.

Don't bet on it.    Aircraft procedures are tightly controlled by FAA,
and the expense/difficulty of getting new processes and materials
approved tends to perpetuate practices that have long since been
superseded in other industrys.

The last pushrod installed in my sailplane, for example (a year ago)
was swabbed inside with boiled linseed oil as an anti-corrosion
measure...I doubt that is the best substance available, but that is
the FAA approved practice, the chapter and verse of which my mechanic
entered into my A/C log book..

Consider that a typical, normally aspirated, piston A/C engine
produces only  .5 HP/in^3  has a carberator from a 1940's farm
tractor, has only 8:1 compression ratio, but will detonate (ping) on
gas with less than 90 octane,  burns a quart of oil every 10-20 hours,
and must be overhauled at intervals that would translate to less than
75,000 miles in a car....Is that really state of the art?

-KF-



From rauscher@icst.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35103 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.interserv.com!news
From: rauscher@icst.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TIG, need help
Date: 20 Sep 1996 13:48:35 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 62
Message-ID: <51u7bj$cq4@lal.interserv.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.183.180.53
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)


Howdy folks,

Need some advice...

I'm in the market for a TIG setup. I currently have an AC welder that I'd like
to add a TIG torch to. I've looked through the MSC and Graingers cats'.

They both sell a house-brand TIG Torch Kit that is inexpensive ($131), but
I'm leery about that path. I'm actually thinking that the Genuine-Heliarc sets
might be a better buy. (Graingers is cheaper than MSC!).

I'm leaning toward getting the HW-17R torch ($71), and the Victor AF150-580
($57), flowgauge regulator. This seems to be quite a bit cheaper than getting
the whole kit from Heliarc ($265). I'll probably also need to get some electrodes
and collets...

(The HW-17R is a 150A 50%duty cycle torch. The AF150 is adjustable
>from  8-25ASCFH for Argon, Argon/CO2).

My plans are to use it for welding small pieces (1/8) mild steel, build-up
work on low carbon and stainless (316) and whatever else may be found
needed to do. Oh, and automotive body panels/floor pans.

My AC welder goes from 40 to 230 amps.

I'm not real versed on what I need, but I'm sure someone here can help.

1) What is required to convert my AC welder to DC. Is it just
a full wave bridge? or is there some inductors/capacitors involved
also? 

2) Would it be worth it to have a DC welder for TIG use?

3) How important is a high frequency arc stabilizer?

4) What kind of current am I going to need to do the above
mentioned welding?

5) I'm leaning toward setting up for 1/16" electrodes and
adding as required. Would this be a good choice?

6) In my travels, it seems that 75% Argon/25% CO2 would
be the best all around gas. Any comments?

7) And last but not least, anything to add?


Thanks in advance,

Bob

rauscher@icst.com

P.S. To the guy thinking of the gatling gun, go for it. I'm waiting
for when I retire to make mine (no time now).

--






From glennd@bdc.cirrus.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35104 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.cirrus.com!usenet
From: Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Darex Drill Doctor experience
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:16:34 -0700
Organization: Cirrus Logic
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Mike
  I have had similar problems with the Drill Doctor also add that the
problems seem worse with small drills 3/32, 1/8 etc  then bigger drills
like 3/8. I also had problems getting the drill point centered. A
problem with small drill sizes is they are hard to align in the chuck. 
You can't reach the back of the drill to turn it to align it with the
setting pawls.  The instructions have a work-a-around for short drills
but it is a not real good.  Something to grip the end of the drill kind
of like a mechanical drafting pencil would be handy.  I have not talked
yet to Darex so there may be something I am doing wrong.


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35105 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 18 Sep 1996 22:36:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <51k3l5$9s3@news.dca.net> <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>
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>
>Alan Muller <amuller@dca.net> wrote in article
<51k3l5$9s3@news.dca.net>...
>> <snip> 
>> Recently I checked the runout (TIR) of some of my Jacobs type
chucks.  I'm particularly bothered by the .004 runout of my Jacobs
headstock chuck (threads onto the lathe spindle).  Questions:  is this
typical and to be expected?  If not, what
>> causes the runout and is there a remedy?
>> 
>> Thanks for any info.
>> 
>> am
>> 

 The jacobs headstock chucks are drill chucks which were manufactured
to thread onto various threaded lathe spindles such as 1"-10thd,
1-1/2"-8thd. and so on. The threads are integral to the body of the
chuck. That is really the crux of the problem as far as run out. They
were made to fit a variety of machines with the same spindle thread.
Many of these machines have subtle differences in the way the
individual manufacturers machined the spindle thread (mostly the
shoulder). Not to mention subtle differences between spindles on the
same make and model machines. 
 Ideally, when you mount a chuck on a lathe, you want to cut the
backplate on that spindle to avoid runout. This cannot be done with the
jacobs headstock chuck as the manufacturer supplied them with integral
threads inside the body of the chuck.
 I have sold several of these units, and I always warn prospective
buyers that I can test the runout on a simillar machine in my shop, but
can't guarantee that will translate to their machine. I am sure there
is another 6" Atlas out there that would have zero runout with your
chuck. There are likely others that would have it even worse than
004".
 If you are feeling brave, you might want to try opening up the
shoulder of the chuck (that is the part that actually centers it on the
spindle.) You can then press in a sleeve and remachine it to be true on
your spindle. Perhaps someone out there has actually tried this and can
give further advice (or call me a fool for suggesting it ;.) )

Dave Ficken 
Meridian Machinery 


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35106 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:42:46 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <51uam3$skc@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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Tom wrote:
> 
> In article <323F8E04.1CA2@worldnet.att.net> James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> >From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
> >Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
> >Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:52:04 -0700
> 
> >Dan Pfanenstiel wrote:
> >>
> >> Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of
> >> copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and
> >> my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.
> >>
> Try Alaskan Brass & Copper in Seattle -- (206)623-5800


From oree@earthlink.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35107 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.bright.net!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp.earthlink.net!cust43.max10.los-angeles.ca.ms.uu.net!user
From: oree@earthlink.net (Greg Loeb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: Chain letter spam  $$
Date: 20 Sep 1996 07:47:01 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Message-ID: <oree-2009960052440001@cust43.max10.los-angeles.ca.ms.uu.net>
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In article <hope.70.0016E3CF@faith.com>, hope@faith.com wrote:

>  IT CAN AND DOES HAPPEN!!
>  
>  Taking 5 minutes to read what follows can change your life:etc etc etc

To quote a great statesman, P.J. O'Rourke, "Pull your pants up, turn your
hat around and get a job!"


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35108 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 14:31:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <51u9rh$kvq@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <Pine.A32.3.94.960920082353.78119A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny2-02.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Sep 20  9:31:13 AM CDT 1996


>
>On 19 Sep 1996, Jay McMunn wrote:
>
>> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a
22rf
>> Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input
on
>> these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a
nice
>> machine shop and does nice work.
>> 
>> thanx,
>> 
>> Jay, North Idaho

Having seen the plans from the Louisiana Company ( that advertises in
HSM) I can tell you that your friend should be thoroughly prepared to
extrapolate missing dimensions. The plans are contradictory in some
spots, and ambiguous in others. You can still build the model (
although I can't imagine where you are going to find .111 wall brass
tubing 2.09 dia. so that would most likely mean boring a piece of
billet to size. The plans also have duplicated drawing numbers which
gets a bit confusing ( two #12's for example ) . The instructions sound
as if they had been translated from another language in spots, and
there is no source list for some fo the items ( such as the barrels
which I would imagine would be a lot easier to buy than build.).

The construction of the model is primarily brass, so unless you have a
source of scrap, this is not going to be an inexpensove project.

To the good, the company seems to have a good customer serivce, having
sent additional photos of a particularly confusing part ( the pan which
is equivalent to the cylinder on a revolver). They have stated that
they are redrawing the plans to address some of the complaints of the
older issue.

As to the barrel issue, you can substitute blanks for the barrels and
ahve a nice non firing replica, or search out a source for old .22
barrels.

Other than that, you can have a really beautiful model when it is
completed. Plan on spending a good deal of time making this one. And by
the way, there is a lot of silver soldering involved, so brush up on
your soldering skills.

The other company RG-G claims to have a source for parts, but I refuse
to deal with a company which does not publish its phone number.

By the way, there is NO prohibition for building this model, working or
otherwise. It is NOT a machine gun, and you are permitted to make a
firearm for personal use. I think you would be nuts to fire this model
personally, but there is no law against doing so.

Good luck, it's a challenging project

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35109 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG, need help
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:51:28 -0700
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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rauscher@icst.com wrote:
> 
> Howdy folks,
> 
> Need some advice...
> 
> I'm in the market for a TIG setup. I currently have an AC welder that I'd like
> to add a TIG torch to. I've looked through the MSC and Graingers cats'.
> 
> They both sell a house-brand TIG Torch Kit that is inexpensive ($131), but
> I'm leery about that path. I'm actually thinking that the Genuine-Heliarc sets
> might be a better buy. (Graingers is cheaper than MSC!).
> 
> I'm leaning toward getting the HW-17R torch ($71), and the Victor AF150-580
> ($57), flowgauge regulator. This seems to be quite a bit cheaper than getting
> the whole kit from Heliarc ($265). I'll probably also need to get some electrodes
> and collets...
> 
> (The HW-17R is a 150A 50%duty cycle torch. The AF150 is adjustable
> from 8-25ASCFH for Argon, Argon/CO2).
> 
> My plans are to use it for welding small pieces (1/8) mild steel, build-up
> work on low carbon and stainless (316) and whatever else may be found
> needed to do. Oh, and automotive body panels/floor pans.
> 
> My AC welder goes from 40 to 230 amps.
> 
> I'm not real versed on what I need, but I'm sure someone here can help.
> 
> 1) What is required to convert my AC welder to DC. Is it just
> a full wave bridge? or is there some inductors/capacitors involved
> also?
> 
> 2) Would it be worth it to have a DC welder for TIG use?
> 
> 3) How important is a high frequency arc stabilizer?
> 
> 4) What kind of current am I going to need to do the above
> mentioned welding?
> 
> 5) I'm leaning toward setting up for 1/16" electrodes and
> adding as required. Would this be a good choice?
> 
> 6) In my travels, it seems that 75% Argon/25% CO2 would
> be the best all around gas. Any comments?
> 
> 7) And last but not least, anything to add?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bob
> 
> rauscher@icst.com
> 
> P.S. To the guy thinking of the gatling gun, go for it. I'm waiting
> for when I retire to make mine (no time now).
> 
> --I have TIG welded pressure vessels (X-ray work) for over 30 years now, 
and don't profess to know it all by any means, but I don't think you 
want to use AC current on a TIG unless it is on aluminum, and then you 
would need a high frequency unit with it. For carbon, and stainless 
steels use DC current, no high freq (unless you want it for start only, 
and normal scratch start should work for you and be cheaper), and my 
personal reccomendation would be for 3/32" tungsten. CK (Conley & 
Kleppen) make excellent tig torches you might look at but any brand 
should do what you anticipate. -- Bill


From nhull@mindspring.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35110 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring.com!user
From: nhull@mindspring.com (Nick Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 20 Sep 1996 10:53:10 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <nhull-2009961125080001@user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring.com>
References: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring.com

In article <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>, rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca wrote:

> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?

All the ones I have seen are made in China.

-- 
nhull@mindspring.com
Free men own guns-slaves don't


From keen@austin.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35111 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!ausnews.austin.ibm.com!keen
From: keen@austin.ibm.com ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: 20 Sep 1996 14:53:54 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51ub62$c9u@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>
References: <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: keen.austin.ibm.com
Originator: keen@keen.austin.ibm.com


In article <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>, Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net> writes:
> Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
> fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
> which will be used on "desktop" fountains.
> 
Go to an aquarium store. You can find physically small immersible centrifugal 
pumps for as little as $12-$15 retail. They are used as water circulators in
the tanks. The "Maxi-Jet" line has a round outlet nozzle that is a slip-on
fit for 3/8" vinyl tubing and is cheap. I use one for a water mover when
I clean my tanks. 

R.G. 


From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Fri Sep 27 16:07:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35112 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!EU.net!sun4nl!esatst!charles
From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Message-ID: <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:48:41 GMT
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.bu <51mq75$r87@news-2.csn.net> <3240752E.A90@lanl.gov>
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 12

On this USA/metric topic, has someone already asked what the
convenience is of a lathe, which is in USA units (1 rev == 0.1 inch),
but than the handle scales are subdivided in hundreds.  What if I need
to turn 15/16", or even 5/8"?  I believe most imperial lathes
are like that, admittedly I know only 2 :-)


-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:07:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35113 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum cleaner?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 12:09:50 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.173.239.33
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I have a machine shop where we cut mostly aluminum. Normally, when parts are 
finished we rinse them off with clean coolant and send them out for whatever 
plating they need.
The other day, I was finishing up some parts for a prototype and my customer 
didn't have time to wait for them to be plated. Obviously I couldn't deliver 
them covered in coolant, so I rinsed them off and blew them dry. I little 
while later I noticed the surfaces were beginning to turn a slight gold color,
especially in the bottoms of the pocket corners. 
I tried dunking them in ALumi-prep aluminum cleaner. This removed the 
oxidation, but as soon as they sat in the open air for a few minutes the began 
oxidizing again. 

Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove shop oils without this problem?
(by the way, the alloy is 7075. I've never seen this problem with 6061 or 
2024)


From Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk Fri Sep 27 16:07:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!warwick!bris.ac.uk!pc220
From: Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk (David E.Hockin)
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 15:58:34 GMT
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In article <51q9j3$s2k$2@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>,
   Sandi <103437.124@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>Anybody have any advice on aluminum welding for a novice?
>I would like to make things out of aluminum for my RC hobby 
>(planes, boats, helicopters, etc.)

There is a low temperature aluminium welding process available 
here in Britain. I can't remember the name, but I have it at 
home. It certainly works, and is very easy - quite unbelievable 
when you think about it! A small propane torch will suffuce for 
small jobs. It seems to rely on scratching the surface of the 
aluminium UNDER the pool of molten filler metal, to break through 
the surface oxide layer. It isn't expensive (here at least!) and 
gives a good strong hard alloy weld. The kit just contains a few 
rods of the alloy, in two sizes, and a wire brush and a sharp 
pointed tool. I thought it was more like black magic, until I 
bought some at the last Model Engineer exhibition at Olympia, 
London. I expect it is available in the States - assuming of 
course that's where you are! (Trouble with compuserve - the email 
address is useless for telling what country you're in!)

If you want more gen - email me over the weekend, and I'll look 
it up.

Dave.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave.Hockin@bris.ac.uk     | "my thoughts are mine alone, and not
			   |  those of the University"
G4UGT                      |
                           | But I wouldn't mind betting they've
                           | someone working on that already!
------------------------------------------------------------------


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 17:38:31 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <09960820123545.OUI64.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.bu <51mq75$r87@news-2.csn.net> <3240752E.A90@lanl.gov> <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl>
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In article <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl>, From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl 
(Charles Stroom), the following was written:
> What if I need
> to turn 15/16", or even 5/8"?  I believe most imperial lathes
> are like that, admittedly I know only 2 :-)

Charles,

That's when you have to start converting into decimal inches.  Also, if
you need to move the handle, say, 3-5/16" (3.3125), it's probably easier
to remember 33 turns plus 12-1/2 graduations then 26 turns plus 62-1/2
graduations, if it were an 8 pitch screw (0.125"/rev.)

Just my 2¢ worth.
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/20/96 12:38
 http://www.loganact.com




From khays@sequent.com Fri Sep 27 16:07:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!gateway.sequent.com!scel.sequent.com!khays
From: khays@sequent.com (Kirk Hays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 16:20:52 GMT
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <51ug94$kdi@scel.sequent.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <ncpw3ivzii.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: eng1.sequent.com

In article <ncpw3ivzii.fsf@axel.vigra.com>,
Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@vigra.com> wrote:
>>> Jay McMunn writes:
>
>JM> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a
>JM> .22rf Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have
>JM> any input on these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter
>JM> project, he has a nice machine shop and does nice work.
>
>Don't let anyone raise the "machine gun" ruse, a gatling gun is not
>one.  

This is correct.

>However, without a FFL (Federal Firearms License) and one of the
>proper class for *manufacturing* it is illegal to build a firearm of
>any kind other than black powder.  i

This is incorrect.  You can build firearms for your own usage without
any kind of license or permit, as long as the firearm is not
one that is otherwise restricted.

Call your local BATF office, and ask for the regulations covering this
area - they will provide them to you, free of charge.

>The part of the firearm considered
>illegal to manufacture without the FFL is the receiver.  Best
>suggestion is to take this discussion over to rec.guns as well as
>there will be some very knowledgeable people there about the legal
>ramifications of this project.  However, there will be some very good
> "machining" advice here.

Good plan - I noted there is quite a bit of crossover between the
two groups, membership wise.

--
Kirk Hays
[I don't speak for Sequent.]



From freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cyanamid.com!news
From: Bruce Freeman <freemanb@pt.cyanamid.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thanks and update (LARGE Acme-threaded nut?)
Date: 18 Sep 1996 20:30:28 GMT
Organization: American Cyanamid
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <51pm54$332@igate2.pt.cyanamid.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.173.56.33

First, I want to thank those who responded to my inquiry of a couple
weeks back (below).  I tried to respond to everyone, but got messages
back in some cases about too many hops, so I suspect my responses 
were never received.

Second, two respondents corrected me about Acme threads.  I now 
believe these are square threads, not Acme.  I haven't taken 
measurements yet to confirm this.

Finally, I'll report progress:  Two respondents suggested modifying 
a lathe to handle 2.5 threads per inch, and we might be able to do
this.  We also may be able to get the nut threaded at a CNC shop, 
where the size won't be limited by the gears of a lathe.  We probably
will strive to match the threads on the shaft, so will not need to 
cut a new shaft.  It's all still on the drawing board, but we now 
have reason to believe we will succeed at this.

Thanks,

Bruce Freeman

=======================================================

>Needed:
>(1) Shaft, at least 30" long, 1.75" OD, 2 to 2.5 threads per inch.
>(2) Hex "nut", preferably iron, but bronze will do.  Threads
>compatable with the shaft.  (Ideally we'd get a nut to fit the
>existing shaft.)  Interpret "nut" here, loosely.  In actual fact
>the original was probably iron, hex externally, but tapered its
>entire length.  The bottom of this "nut" would be an iron disk about
>4" in diameter - all one piece.
>
>Acme threaded rod seems available commercially at 4 threads per inch,
>no larger.
>
>Anyone know of a source of the above, or have any suggestions how to
>fabricate it?
>
>Bruce Freeman



From gedwards@onramp.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pacifier!news.sba.com!chi-news.cic.net!news.math.psu.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:36:30 -0500
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <3242C80E.6D0F@onramp.net>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu> <51d6it$co2@news-e2c.gnn.com> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960916085854.8930D-100000@clarion.korrnet.org> <korenma1-2009960739430001@ppp7.ppp.tju.edu>
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To: eric korenman <korenma1@jeflin.tju.edu>

eric korenman wrote:
> 
> Someone recommended 'Japan Oil' paints
> I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
> Ever heard of this?
> 
> thanks
> 
My search for the "right" paint started several years ago when I first
started rebuilding used equipment for my shop.  I look in tool company
catalogs, went to the many supply houses here in Houston, TX and even
inquired to equipment manufacturers/importers.

To make a long story short...I "found" the paint I have been using for
the last 5 years at my neighborhood hardware store...2 blocks from my
house.  It happens to be a True Value Hardware store.

The paint is called Tru-Test X-O Rust, Interior/Exterior Enamel.

The color I use most is XO-15 Machinery Gray (IBM No. 372 581).

If you want to mix another color with the same quality paint, you start
with XO-P Pastel Base (IBM No. 364 544) and go from there.

These paints also come in spray cans as well if you pick a standard
color.  This is why I use Machinery Gray most of the time...I can keep a
paint and a spray can around the shop.

It holds up well in a shop environment and grease and oil don't seem to
effect it.

George


From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:08:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:08:42 GMT
Organization: IFF, Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
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References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960917201049.26401A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51hvv9$e50@orb <Dxz1K8.Hs5@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:


>The silliest metric unit has to be the one for the fuel consumption  of 
>motor vehicles.  Liters per 20 kilometers.  Ugh!  It seems the kilometer 

This isn't a unit, actually. It's a combination of units.  Auto
manufacturers used to compare the fuel consumption in km per liter.
For some reason they changed to liters per 100  (not 20) km.
Best, Honoré.



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:08:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Lathe Headstock Bearings
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <51mhm3$7v6@bluto.accesscomm.net>  
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:33:55 GMT
Lines: 58


Probably the expensive ones are best.  You are paying for a close fit, 
and accuracy.



In a previous article, therbert@accesscomm.net (Tom Herbert) says:

>comm.net!usenet
>From: therbert@accesscomm.net (Tom Herbert)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Lathe Headstock Bearings
>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:49:50 GMT
>Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
>Lines: 33
>Message-ID: <51mhm3$7v6@bluto.accesscomm.net>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: 206.97.162.100
>X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
>
>I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe of about 1960's vintage.  After
>tightening every nut, bolt and belt on the machine, I was still
>getting a strange set of toolmarks on each turned piece.  They are
>diagonal hills and valleys that cross the regular toolmarks at about
>30 degrees.
>
>After doing everything else that I and all of my machinery-inclined
>friends could think of to do, I finally took the headstock apart, and
>cleaned the bearings.  Then I noticed that the front bearing (closest
>to the chuck) had evidently overheated at some point in the past;
>both the inner and outer races had heat discoloration rings, and there
>was baked-on oil on the ends of the rollers.  There was also paint
>chips in both of the bearings from the restoration that was done to
>the lathe before I bought it.
>
>After reassembly, the lathe runs much more quietly than it did before,
>but still makes these strange toolmarks--although admittedly not as
>pronounced as before.
>
>I would like to replace the bearings on the spindle, but there are two
>classes of bearings available, standard and class 3.  The standard
>bearings are about $98.00 for the four pieces (2 cones and 2 outer
>races), and the class 3 are about $280.00.
>
>Does anyone know what type of bearings (what class) are generally in a
>lathe headstock?  I would obviously prefer to spend less money if the
>class 3 bearings will not add anything to the lathe.
>
>Thanks for any help in advance.
>
>Tom Herbert
>therbert@accesscomm.net
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From rrice2@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stirling piston fitting?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 15:21:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Back in 1979, Dr. James Senft wrote 2 articles in Live Steam magazine
relating to fitting the pistons in Stirling engines. They were: 

"Fitting Cylinders and Pistons", September, 1979, pp14-16 and
"A Short Course in Lapping", October, pp 26-29

If anyone has these issues and would be willing to clpy them for me, I
will be glad to pay copying and postage costs. Please reply by private
email to avoid cluttering the newsgroup.

Thanks in advance,

Roy Rice (rrice2@aol.com)


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:08:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 20 Sep 1996 18:17:29 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <51un3p$ci3@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

> The universal law on cutting tools is, if it isn't made in the USA, it isn't a 
> cutting tool. Chinese or Polish drills arn't worth having even as a bad joke.
> The Silver and Demming drills I use are made by Viking Drill in St. Paul MN. 

Then I'll have to admit to some lousy humor, as I use sets of drills in my
home shop from foreign shores... for mild steel, aluminum, etc, I have no 
complaints.  For heavy duty use (like when I drilled 112 5/8" holes in a piece
of 8" pipe for the Otter's new boiler), the industrial made in USA stuff is
just right, stays sharp and is a pleasure to use.

If you work with stainless, etc, do yourself a favor and buy good quality
cobalt drills.

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:08:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steadyrest kit
Message-ID: <1996Sep20.091509.25060@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 20 Sep 96 09:15:08 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <324294B5.4E37@worldnet.att.net>, TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net> writes:
|>Yesterday I saw a post here talking about a steadyrest kit.
|>Please repost as I accidently deleted it before writing down the phone
|>number.
|>Does this company offer any other kits?

I don't recall the post exactly, but it was probably mentioning
Metal Lathe Accessories.  From the FAQ:

   -  Metal Lathe Accessories
      Box 88
      Pine Grove Mills, PA  16868

      Mostly castings and raw-parts kits for common and useful lathe
      accessories, mostly for lathes similar to 9- or 10-inch South
      Bend and Atlas-style units.  A T-slot cross slide, rear mounting
      tool post, faceplate, milling attachment, boring/facing head,
      large steady rest, boring and ball-turning tool post, and others.
      Also a toolpost grinder kit.  You can order kits, or just drawings.
 
Jim


From pearg@sk.sympatico.ca Fri Sep 27 16:08:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!mongol.sasknet.sk.ca!news@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca
From: George Pearce <pearg@sk.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Home built backhoe
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:45:20 -0600
Organization: SaskNet News Distribution
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <32404340.3F2E@sk.sympatico.ca>
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Hi;

   I recently built the Cad digger backhoe and I am very pleased with
it. Is there anyone else who has built one, and what do you think of it?

                                               G.P.


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip58.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Low Cost Lathes (was Re: emco maier ... (was..)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:15:43 GMT
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In article <51tej4$sn6@sanjuan.islandnet.com> johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer) writes:

>My two cents here.  Given that there is now incredibly powerful and
>totally automatic CNC equipment available, including EDM  why is it
>not possible to build smaller inexpensive, high quality lathes.  Seems
>to me that given castings and and NC program or two that a 8"x36"
>3/4HP lathe should not be that difficult to build.

I'll take this as an opportunity to reccomend a book I just
bought at a used book store : Precision Machine Design
by Alexander Slocum, Prentice Hall(?) 1992. Although
parts of it are over my tiny head, he goes
into the economic factors in designing precision machines
(such as lathes) as well as all the engineering. I'm well into the
second chapter and think the book should be required reading.

I cast my vote for replaceable v ways made out of ground square stock,
fitted into an aluminum (or cast iron) bed with female vees cut into it.
Since the motor is usually a significant part of the cost of a lathe, and most 
of us have surplus motors, I would say it should be able to use any sort
of single speed (1750 rpm) motor.


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.iag.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news1.best.com!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Darex Drill Doctor experience
Date: 20 Sep 1996 05:03:07 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 33
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Well, after a three week wait, not two as promised, I got my new Drill Doctor.

I might be wrong (hope I am) but it doesn't seem to work all that well.

1.  The 22,000 rpm will burn the drill bit.

2.  The aligning device for positioning the drill in the collet is a bit tricky to 
operate.  It is somewhat easy to get the drill out of position.  Then you get no or a 
reverse clearance.

3.  The drills I sharpened all were ground with too little clearance.  Looks pretty 
good for brass, maybe too little for steel.  (however, one drill I tried cut 
reasonably well.  my eyes could be miscalibrated)  Whatever, this is where the setup 
seems the shakiest.

4.  The diamond wheel is quite rough and the ground finish on the drill bit is not 
what I'd call smooth.  (perhaps it will smooth out after some use.

5.  The grinding process leaves a fair burr behind the cutting edge which must be 
stoned off.  (this has never been a problem when free-hand grinding drill bits)

6.  The depth stop that sets clamping depth in the collet seems a bit too shallow on 
drills that have some damage.  Especially if the cutting edge has rounded off and a 
fair amount of material has to be removed.  You have to free-hand grind the tip into 
some semblance of proper geometry first.

Tomorrow, I'll call Darex and see what they have to say.  I'd like this thing to work 
so I don't have to save for a 'big professional model'.  More later.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:34:08 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
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Roy;

>wrote:
> 
> >> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> >> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
> >>

Besides, the 1/2 " shank, they are also very short for their diamters, 
that is, not jobbers length.

I not sure, but I've always thought they were named after the 
organizational and effiecientcy expert Deming.  Anyone know?

Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Shipping Costs
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I just shipped a mill from California to Colorado, and thought it would
be useful to share the info gleaned.

Describing the shipment as 1850 pounds on one pallet, I got the
following quotes:

	Northwest	$850 + $30 for home delivery
	Yellow Freight	$750 + $30 for home delivery
	Broker #1	$500 door to door
	Broker #2	$500 door to door

Both Yellow and Northwest include the silly "YES" discount.

Brokers fill part empty trucks. You might have to wait an extra week
depending on traffic in your part of the world, but you can get a pretty
good discount as a result.

Find a broker under "Trucking-Motor Freight" in the Yellow pages of the
nearest large city (I looked in Denver). 

Broker #1 above is:
AAA Transportation
(303)693-4110
(800)548-9984
They serve 50 states.

A caution from Broker #2--he says that most companies will not insure
used machine tools. This can be a consideration, as shipping by broker
might mean an extra transfer between trucks.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric vs inches: "Jerry" building
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:44:17 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: walter Holmes <walter@walter.airtime.co.uk>

Oops.  As I recall, "Jerry" building is politically incorrect.  Think 
it has something to do with an ethnic slur for Germans, or what Americans 
a century ago thought were their close cousins, the Dutch.  Maybe someone 
remembers the specifics, but it's kind of funny to refer to a botched job 
as one done in the German fashion.  Some of my German relatives would 
take offense, and they certainly seem to use metrics competently.
					Tony


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 23:17:19 GMT
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	The classic TV news mistake is where they say "a 15,000 ton (nnnnnn
	metric Tonne) ship has run aground on a reef".  The shipping ton
	is a measure of VOLUME, related to the cargo capacity - i.e. how
	many tons the ship can carry. Converting that is a nonsense.

Well, sort of. What it started out as was the weight of the
water it displaced when fully laden (before sinking, of course).


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:08:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small (6") rotary tables.
Message-ID: <1996Sep20.170534.25066@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 20 Sep 96 17:05:34 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <Dy1EJF.Is8@cfanews.harvard.edu>, kenter@flashman.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter) writes:
|>	Looking for recs, information, cost and  sources for
|>small 6" rotary tables (Horizontal and vertical)

On the off chance that 4" is good enough, the Sherline rotary table
is a real Gem.

Jim


From airioch@telalink.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: airioch@telalink.net (Airioch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: UNIMAT SL, DB-200
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:58:29 -0500
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Have one complete Unimat SL modle DB-200. This is a complete basic
kit. The lathe actually has less than 2 hours use (i played with it
a little bit) Still have the origional wooden shipping box and all 
it's wrappings that it came in. Havent had time to use the thing so
figured someone else might want it. Looked at the Blue Ridge catalog
and they want 200 for just the motor let alone all the other parts.
I'd like to get 300.00 plus shipping costs.

airioch@telalink.net


From kimberln@crl.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Carbide toolholders
Date: 20 Sep 1996 18:08:22 -0700
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In article <rich_klopp-1809961625110001@128.18.30.31>,
Rich Klopp <rich_klopp@qm.sri.com> wrote:
>I want to buy a carbide insert toolholder or two for my Jet 12" lathe. I'm
>considering Acra (made by HB Rouse), USA and "Quality Import" copies, and
>something similar made by US Borite. I'm thinking that the 3/8" shank size
>ought to be about right; it uses 1/4" inside-circle triangular inserts.

I have a 13" x 36 Jet belt drive with an Armstrong toolpost.  I use the 
1/2" Rouse tool holder using TNMG inserts.  These cost about $1.00 each 
but are 3/8" IC.  The 3/8" shank size is a little small for ridgidity I 
would think.  I try to get all my tool holders to use the TNMG insert.

>Can anyone recommend any one of these over the other? It looks like the
>Borite uses somewhat different inserts. Are the inserts widely available?
>They don't seem to list them according to industry standard codes. (Where
>have I seen an explanation of those codes? They look something like
>"TPMG".) I'd hate to buy something that you can't get inserts for 3 years
>from now. Can I use these same inserts in somebody's boring bar?

The industry codes are usually found in about any catalogue somewhere.  
They are probably in the FAQ.  I can't recommend Rouse over any of the 
other brands sold by MSC, Travers, Rutland, and others.  Mostly they are 
all the same.  If you have a good vertical mill you can make your own.

>Thanks in advance!
>
>-- 
>Rich Klopp


JerryK


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
Date: 21 Sep 1996 08:20:31 -0400
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Perhaps you should read my article in the current issue of Home Shop
Machinist for my experience with a JET lathe. So much for Swiss quality if
they really are owned by a Swiss company.

Peter


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stepper motors wanted
Date: 21 Sep 1996 09:27:59 -0400
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Hi yo all,

Does anyone have information on a source of supply for low-cost stepper
motors in the 1600+ oz-in range?

I may replace my servo motors on a CNC mill if I cannot get them to work
with a new controller.

I have been quote (thanks Bill) $350 for refurbished ones, any better
prices?

Peter


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Costs
Date: 20 Sep 1996 22:29:57 GMT
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X-NETCOM-Date: Fri Sep 20  5:29:57 PM CDT 1996

In <3242F7FC.6F36@cc.com> "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
writes: 
>
>I just shipped a mill from California to Colorado, and thought it
would
>be useful to share the info gleaned.
>
>Describing the shipment as 1850 pounds on one pallet, I got the
	Northwest	$850 + $30 for home delivery
>	Yellow Freight	$750 + $30 for home delivery
>	Broker #1	$500 door to door
>	Broker #2	$500 door to door
>
>Both Yellow and Northwest include the silly "YES" discount.  

A note about Yellow. Their drivers are generally first rate. I use them
routinely to ship machinery to customers in the US. I have also had
customers use brokers. Sometimes, the broker uses a reputable company
to pick up the freight, other times, it is whatever fly-by-night is
around and cheap. Some of the guys these brokers have sent are
downright scary. One guy backed right into the building and took out a
chunk. Others halfway destroyed the idiot proof crate I made just
moving it to the front of the truck. Most brokers will not pay for
damage to used Machinery. A customer of mine is still in litigation
over a machine he bought from plaza 18 months ago. During one of the
transfers, they drove the forks right through the apron. Sometimes
saving a few bucks is penny wise and pound foolish, though I admit it
is mighty tempting.
 It would be intersting to get a follow up report on this shipment when
it arrives! 
Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery



From jacob_henteleff@mbnet.mb.ca Fri Sep 27 16:08:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jacob_henteleff@mbnet.mb.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 20 Sep 1996 14:33:07 GMT
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>   Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> writes:
>  Does anyone know what blueing salts are?  And does anyone know which
>  fertilizer can be used for blueing  ( possibly the same question )?
>  

Bluing in a hot salt system generally involves three chemicals that are closley related. If fertilizer was used in your friends system it 
was ammonia based, probably ammonium hydroxise, ammonium nitrate and ammonium nitrite.

You can use sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and its nitrate and nitrite just as easily and with no difference i the bluing result. The 
Hydroxide is used to make a water solution that has a boiling point that is high enough for proper blueing as opposed to rusting. The 
idea is to get the temperature up to about 295 degrees F though some steels require that the temperature then be raised to 310 + 
degrees to avoid a purplish result.  By putting the appropriate amount of caustic soda in the water you get a solution that boils at the 
temperature you want and controlling the temperature is then easy. If it is boiling the temperature is right, if it isn't boiling it's too cold.

Of course this doesn't eliminate a thermometer. After a while the boiling solution loses water to steam and the density goes up along 
with the temperature. This can be used to raise the temperature as described above but usually it is better to use two separat tanks 
at the two temperatures. A warning here, adding water to the solution to control the temperature/solution density when it is boiling is 
a tricky task because the pure water wants to flash into steam and that can cause hot caustic soda to spray all over the place. 
Another warning is that the steam and salts should be kept out of your shop unless you want the equivalent of an ocean spray all 
over your nice iron machines which will rust like you wouldn't believe.

The other two chemicals, the nitrate and nitrite are what get the bluing process going. I am sorry that I don't have the exact 
proportions handy here at work but they need only be added once. After bluing starts to work in a solution int seems to keep going 
no matter what and so the chemicals are not used up in any ordinary sense of the word. Cool solution can be kept in plastic buckets 
(not steel of course) and re-used many times. Eventually,however, crud starts to muddy the waters and it is then a good idea to 
make a fresh batch. 

Any kind of metalic impurity such as copper, zinc, aluminum etc. will destroy the bath. Copper sulphate may be found in tap water, 
whether from copper pipes or municipal efforts to control algae. Alumimum from some gun parts is equally bad. Even failing to use 
buffing wheels that are exclusively used on steel will risk poor results so no polishing the brass fittings on the boat before polishing 
your gun. Also if you make the mistake of putting aluminum gun parts in the bath they will be eaten up in a hurry so be warned. 
Finally old double barreled shotguns were often held together with the ribs using soft solder. This too will be at risk due to the high 
heat involved and you could end up with the barrels and rib pointing in four different directions! Soldering them back together is easy 
though if you have twelve hands and 20 years experience.

Good luck.




From amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:08:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.tacom.army.mil!news2.acs.oakland.edu!news1.oakland.edu!not-for-mail
From: amaranth@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to build an arbor
Date: 20 Sep 1996 08:00:09 -0400
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization
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Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <51u109$cjb@saturn.acs.oakland.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: saturn.acs.oakland.edu

In article <3242098D.274F@dmv.com> William Purnell <purnell@dmv.com> writes:
>
>Hello,
>

>I recently built an Arbor that I love.  I searched for months through
>books, magazines, housing  developments and was never able to find the
>plans I was looking for.  

Yeah, I know what you mean, I keep looking at catalogs and I just
can't decide where to spend my money.

>Well after much thought I  designed my own plans, for a completely
>wooden arbor.   It is made of of 4 x 4, 2x8, and ferring strips. It is 
>hefty yet elegant.  
Wow, I never would have thought of making it out of wood.  A nice tool
steel might have been more appropriate, but hey, if it works.
Still, I'd question how well it would hold up.

>I am not a professional architect, or carpenter, yet my arbor is beautiful.  
Nothing like pride of accomplishment when you build something useful

>I have written  and illustrated plans as to how to make an arbor of
>your own.  The plans are simple step by step, and do not  require you
>to own special tools.  For a set of plans and materials list, mail

Say, you didn't say what kind of arbor that was.  Was it for a shell mill,
milling cutter or saw?



[Sorry folks, it's been a long week and I couldn't resist :-) ]

-- 
Paul Amaranth   -- I've moved!  Use this address:
           amaranth@AuroraGrp.Com    [Rochester, Michigan  USA]



From bubblesaz@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bubblesaz@aol.com (BUBBLES AZ)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: COWBOY ART:::: Handcrafted Horseshoe cowboys.......
Date: 20 Sep 1996 05:03:44 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Genuine Horseshoes made into Ropin' cowboys or gunfighting business card
holders......about 12-15 inches high, can be painted any color you
choose....send E-mail for pic or to order  to   Bubbles Az  AOL.......... 
                                                                      
.....$ .40.00 includes shipping.....


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!holly.holli.com!news
From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:20:18 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 30
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Jay McMunn wrote:
> 
> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
> Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
> these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
> machine shop and does nice work.
> 
> thanx,
> 
> Jay, North Idaho

Jay;

Ought to be a very useful item if fending off a miniature calvary!  

I believe the original units were designed and built in Indianapolis.  A 
.22 version is difficult in that the feed magazines must be able to deal 
with .22s not stacking parallel like the original ammo.  Other than that, 
it ought to be a piece of cake.  

Add an electric motor and electric primers and you have a mini-gun!

Caution:  Does this fall under the heading of semi-auto or full-auto, 
just a thought to your legal department.

Oh, yeah, please post a warning before you start shooting so the rest of 
us can duck..............

Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From Bob Haskell Fri Sep 27 16:08:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!news.PBI.net!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!drn
From: Bob Haskell
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: For 9" SB lathe and Van Norman 1/2 mill
Date: 20 Sep 1996 14:48:51 -0700
Organization: Zippo
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <51v3g3$j09@lex.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ten2-39.agt.gmeds.com

Want to buy the following for a 1927 9" South Bend Lathe, catalog # 322YC:

	- steady rest
	- follower rest
	- spindle nose cap
	- thread dial

The lathe carriage does not have attachment holes for a thread dial, so I'm
looking for suggestions.


For a Van Norman # 1/2 Mill

	- drawbar - the threads in mine are pretty shot
	- end mill holders
	- documentation - operator/repair manuals, lubrication charts, etc.

I've checked with Sobel (no luck with the lathe items and he's checking on the
mill pieces) and have also sent a message to Dave at meridian machinery.  I'll
be also getting a hold of Metal Lathe Associates.

Thanks,
Bob Haskell


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:08:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hsnx.wco.com!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well.. The blood factor
Date: 19 Sep 1996 12:23:11 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 81
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 10/20/96
Message-ID: <51s6iv$ms3@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com> <51nuet$r77@news1.svc> <Dxxqsu.By6@bbxrbk.basis.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <Dxxqsu.By6@bbxrbk.basis.com>,
Russ Kepler <russ@bbxrbk.basis.com> wrote:
>In article <51nuet$r77@news1.svc>,
>Mike Rehmus  <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>>What do you mean, "Don't cut yourself?"
>>
>>The day is a total waste if I don't cause a little rust somewhere from
>>dripping blood.
>
>My wife maintains that no project I ever work on is complete until I
>bleed on it somewhere.  I've got a lot of scars from simple little
>home projects to big scars from big home projects (usually involving
>#5 rebar).  Makes me a bit afraid to approach some projects I've
>always thought complete...
>
>As to causing rust I was at a gunsmith's shop recently, hanging
>around, causing trouble and like many, couldn't keep my hands from
>doing something (anyone else have that problem?  Land in a shop and
>start working instantly?  Hell, I've had Roy give me a file and start
>me drawfiling barrels to stay out of trouble, when all I did was to
>come by to borrow a tool...).  Anyway, I started picking swarf from
>a barrel in the lathe, like a fool, and whacked a finger pretty deep,
>'bout halfway to the bone from the face of my finger.  Blood oozing
>instantly, Roy shouting "Don't get any blood on guns - rusts like
>hell!".  Thanks for the concern, Roy. ;-)
>
>>Seriously,  go get your tetanus shot up to date and keep a bottle
>>of hydrogen peroxide near.
>
>Good idea.  I never seem to have problems with tetanus updates, as
>soon as I don't recall the date of the last shot I seem to get a
>renewal.  
>
>>Make every wound bleed.
>
>That's a starting point, but not an ending point.  
>
>-- 
>Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com
>
>                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


On every project I do, I calculate the Blood Factor. The Blood Factor
is on a scale from 1 to 10:

1-2 Small scratches and scrapes. Some skin lost but no blood.  
3-4  Definite bleeding but clots quickly. Often this is the unnoticed
knuckle-bash when working on automobiles.  
5-6  Enough blood to require  attention--usually a trip inside the
house for a bandaging. Spousal sympathy level: .1
7-8 This level requires a trip to the doctor for wound cleaning
and stiches. Antibiotics and pain killers are sometimes prescribed.
This level still is usually treated in walk-in clinics or doctors'
offices. Spousal sympathy level: 7=.3; 8="How did you do that, you
ding-dong!"
9-10 This is the 911 level. Sometimes makes the newspaper, particulary
the column where really stupid tricks are reported. Emergency room
personnel seem amazed and surprised, sometimes laugh when out of
earshot of bleedee (and sometimes in earshot). Spousal sympathy level
high, often resulting in meeting your most minor needs. Milk this
situation.

For lathe work, I usually plan for a 1-2. Milling machines are also
reasonably safe provided spindle wrenches are removed before
activation, although in both cases, gravity tests with tooling
sometimes result in a 3. Other machine tools rarely rate more than a
4, but welding and hand-grinding are automatically classed as a 6.
Scrap-yard scrounging: 4 
Brake jobs: 4 
Honey-do's 3 except hanging curtains and blinds: 4 and installing new
garbage disposer: 5.


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep 27 16:08:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.service.emory.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!nntp!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail
From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline
Date: 20 Sep 1996 18:00:12 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <51v45cINNh42@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <Dxsnrs.211.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> <51k592$hja@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475) writes:
>I have also modified one of the boring bar holders on the lathe to
>acconodate the Dremel flex shaft.  Live tooling if you will. I have used
>it many times to cut hardened shafts and gears  using a tuffgrind cutoff
>wheel.
>Bill

I was looking at an advertisement for the Dremel flex shaft the
other day and wondered how it would compare to the normal Dremel
tool for tool post purposes.  My experiences with very cheap
flex shaft tools in the past is that the vibration of the flex
cable turning inside the outer sheath was very objectionable for
hand use.  Do their handpieces have endplay in the spindle? It
would be nice if they came apart for cleaning and if their
was a preload adjustment for the bearings.  If the handpieces are
well made they might be useful many places where a small high
speed spindle was needed.  I'll bet they have a square drive
in the cable end to accept a square end crushed into the cable
like automobile speedometer cables do.  Dremel also makes a
high torque version with a heavier motor apparently.

ken
bethesda, md


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Fri Sep 27 16:08:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 18:04:05 -0400
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <51v4clINNhm2@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51k3g2$8ct@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
Reply-To: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser) writes:
>How many eggs in a metric dozen?  10?

I dunno but then a bakers metric dozen would be 11, wouldn't it?

ken
bethesda, md


From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!news-2.csn.net!cpollard
From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: 21 Sep 1996 05:59:36 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

76257.3632@compuserve.com wrote:

:    Finally, most people don't call it the "American" measurement system;
: we call it "English" because the Brits inflicted it upon the unsuspecting
: colonies before abandoning it themselves.  We should be angry.   It gets 
: worse than 3's and 12's.  Acres are squares of something like 216 feet on
: a side, and old deeds use rods (or poles) as units of measurement, and old 
: maps sometimes even use leagues (whatever that is).  A lot of our old 
: land records are incomprehensible.  
You will very pleased to learn then that the standard metric pipe thread
is BSP (British Standard Pipe) and it actually isn't a round number of
inches or  mm.


From wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu Fri Sep 27 16:08:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!news.uoregon.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.mtholyoke.edu!wkaiser
From: wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu (W. Kaiser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 18 Sep 1996 16:59:14 GMT
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <51p9p2$df2@news1.mtholyoke.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

I once heard of a fine old unit called the shaftmund (shaftmond?).  It's 
approximately 6-1/2".

Make a fist, extend the thumb.  A shaftmund is the distance from the tip 
of the thumb to the knuckle of the little finger.

You can give people an inch.  You can give people a centimeter.  When you 
give them a shaftmund, though, you're really giving them something.

BTW, I just discovered that the ardeb has been standardized in Egypt to 
be 198 liters, but still varies widely elsewhere.  Does anyone support 
a world standard for the ardeb?

--
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mhc.mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.



From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!cpk-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!dish.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <220@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.i <DxvLtz.MEA@freenet.victoria.bc.ca><51mhb7$ack@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 19:17:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Lines: 17

 
In article <51mhb7$ack@buffnet2.buffnet.net>, Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) writes:
>
>: 1 Ton ( short ) 2,000 pounds
>: 1 long ton      2,240 pounds  ( not used much )
>
>The "long ton" is actually still used quite a bit in world commerce
>where it is more common than the more familiar "short ton".  

The classic TV news mistake is where they say "a 15,000 ton (nnnnnn
metric Tonne) ship has run aground on a reef".  The shipping ton
is a measure of VOLUME, related to the cargo capacity - i.e. how
many tons the ship can carry. Converting that is a nonsense.

I have seen this regularly in newspapers as well.



David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From pearg@sk.sympatico.ca Fri Sep 27 16:08:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Pearce <pearg@sk.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Posting letters
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:55:10 -0600
Organization: SaskNet News Distribution
Lines: 6
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)

Hi;
  I recently posted a letter about a backhoe I built, and have had some
replies. I am new to groups on the net and was wondering how long a
letter stays on the net, because mine was only there for about a day. 
                               Thanks,
                                    G.P.


From xcprhb@oryx.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35149 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.eng.convex.com!news.oryx.com!xcprhb
From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 16:00:08 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 23
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <51uf28$od3@lm1.oryx.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <3241E342.689@holli.com> <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

[ snip ]

> I believe the original units were designed and built in Indianapolis.  A
> .22 version is difficult in that the feed magazines must be able to deal
> with .22s not stacking parallel like the original ammo.  Other than that,
> it ought to be a piece of cake.

Actually, some of the original Gatling guns were in rimfire.  Can't
remember which though.  While it certainly complicates the feed mechanism,
it is not insurmountable.

Have fun!


-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From anderson@darex.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35150 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.mind.net!news
From: anderson <anderson@darex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Darex Drill Doctor experience
Date: 21 Sep 1996 07:15:47 GMT
Organization: InfoStructure - Ashland, OR
Lines: 66
Message-ID: <5204n3$cqn@news.mind.net>
References: <51t8ib$ed6@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip115.mind.net

Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>
Mike-
Mike called us at Darex, both Dave Bernard (the company president) 
and I have had good conversations with Mike who has been very helpful 
with his critique and with his questions.  In fact, we will re-do our
 operations manual because of his comments.  Most of this Mike 
already knows because of our phone conversations.  However it may 
help other Drill Doctor owners.

> 1.  The 22,000 rpm will burn the drill bit. #1 Yes, it can burn the 
point if you turn the chuck to slowly.  A brisk turning motion is
best.

> 2.  The aligning device for positioning the drill in the collet is a bit
tricky to operate.  It is somewhat easy to get the drill out of position.  
Then you get no or a reverse clearance. #2 At first the chuck and 
alignment may seem unfamiliar.  Easily overcome with some practice.
  
> 3.  The drills I sharpened all were ground with too little clearance.
Looks pretty good for brass, maybe too little for steel.  (however, 
one drill I tried cut reasonably well.  my eyes could be 
miscalibrated)  Whatever, this is where the setup seems the shakiest.
#3 The standard drill clearance (relief angle) produced is varies 
somewhat drill styles from around 10 to 12 degrees.  As Mike pointed 
out the drill cut “reasonably well."  The three settings allow for 
some clearance adjustment.   Mike agreed to let us examine some of 
the drills he sharpened.
 
> 4.  The diamond wheel is quite rough and the ground finish on the 
drill bit is not what I'd call smooth.  (perhaps it will smooth out 
after some use) #4 Again Mike is correct.  The 180 grit diamond wheel 
is an  electroplated wheel. Ideally, the diamond grit is slightly 
more than half-way submerged into the plating--thus held tight.  Of
course, a small percent of the diamonds are not submerged enough--
thus they protrude too much--causing roughness.  Initially, the wheel 
will feel rough  and grind rough until 20 or so "break-in" sharpenings.
The "sticking-out" diamonds are soon knocked off.  The remaining grit 
is all at same level (depth) thus producing a smooth finish.  
As Jim Donnelly of this newsgroup will attest the finish is very 
smooth, even on the split point facet.

> 5.  The grinding process leaves a fair burr behind the cutting edge 
which must be stoned off.  (this has never been a problem when 
free-hand grinding drill bits) #5 Mike is right but it doesn’t need 
to be stoned because the first turn it takes cutting material the 
burr falls off.  I flick the burr off with my fingers.   A thick burr 
indicates to me that Mike may be pushing too hard--therefore taking 
off too much material with each pass.  Anyway good point, Mike, we 
will explain this in the instructions.  

> 6.  The depth stop that sets clamping depth in the collet seems a 
bit too shallow on drills that have some damage.  Especially if the 
cutting edge has rounded off and a fair amount of material has to be 
removed.  You have to free-hand grind the tip into some semblance of 
proper geometry first. #6. The drill should clean up if set properly. 
My guess is the chuck was not tight enough and the drill was pushed 
back during sharpening.  Also as you may be able to visualize, if 
the old drill point angle is more acute than either the 118 or 135 
degree setting, your drills will be "champhered" until ground more.
 
Regards,
Curt Anderson
http://www.drilldr.com
http://www.darex.com



From walter@walter.airtime.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:08:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35151 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!winternet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.airtime.co.uk!walter.airtime.co.uk!walter
From: walter@walter.airtime.co.uk (walter Holmes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re metric vs inches
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 00:44:29
Organization: None Specified
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <walter.88.0000BDDE@walter.airtime.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: walter.airtime.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Thats what we call jerry building, a botch job. If they built your house or 
your car by those methods you'd be the first to scream when your house fell 
down, or your car wouldn't go.

To me, If its 1/2 thou out its scrap.

Walter


From nicol@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35152 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Headstock Bearings
Date: 19 Sep 1996 00:59:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <01bba5c5$a797bba0$4dcfb7c7@johnnico>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155



Tom Herbert <therbert@accesscomm.net> wrote in article
<51mhm3$7v6@bluto.accesscomm.net>...
> I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe of about 1960's vintage.  After
> tightening every nut, bolt and belt on the machine, I was still
> getting a strange set of toolmarks on each turned piece.  They are
> diagonal hills and valleys that cross the regular toolmarks at about
> 30 degrees.
> 
I have the same lathe (although 1950's vintage) and the same problem.  My
lathe was in like new almost unused condition when I bought it.  I have
tried adjusting everything to perfection but still get marks about 1 cm
apart when turning.  It doesn't seem to matter what feed I use the marks
still apear around 1 cm apart.  I am inclined to believe it is common to
this lathe and has something to do with the way the carriage follows the
bed ways.  Perhaps they ways are not finished correctly?

I have noticed that it is difficult to get good accuracy out of this
machine regardless of how well it is adjusted.  Have you had similar
problems?

John Nicol			jnicol@ix.netcom.com



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:08:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35153 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <Dy2oMw.M9D@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
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References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960919163933.1446U-100000@reliant> <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 07:54:32 GMT
Lines: 45


Well, I have some Silver & Deming drills from 1/8" to 1/4", but they all 
have the same size shank.



In a previous article, john@siu.edu ("John R. Johnson") says:

>ws.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!saluki-news.wham.siu.edu!reliant!john
>From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
>Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:41:30 -0500
>Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
>Lines: 16
>Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960919163933.1446U-100000@reliant>
>References: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>
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>X-Sender: john@reliant
>In-Reply-To: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca> 
>
>On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Roy Robinson wrote:
>
>> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
>> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
>> 
>> 
>Silver & Deming drill bits are large bits ( > 1/2 inch ) with a 1/2 inch
>diameter straight shank so they can be chucked in a standard 1/2 inch
>drill press to drill large holes.  Watch speed and feed and they work
>pretty well.  I use them fairly often in my 1/2 inch drill motor for
>field work.
>Most large drill bits use a taper shank and plug directly into the
>drill press spindle.  They may need an adaptor for the correct taper.
>
>John
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:08:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35154 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Most durable paint
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 08:09:48 GMT
Lines: 7


Japanning is a varnish based paint, once used on clock dials to simulate 
enamel ( Fired glass powder, also known as Frit ).
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From steamer@west.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35155 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.west.net!news.west.net!not-for-mail
From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Costs
Date: 20 Sep 1996 19:12:02 -0700
Organization: West.Net Communications
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <51viti$n9v@acme.sb.west.net>
References: <3242F7FC.6F36@cc.com> <51v5t5$aif@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
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Dave Ficken (mermac@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: >Describing the shipment as 1850 pounds on one pallet, I got the
: 	Northwest	$850 + $30 for home delivery
: >	Yellow Freight	$750 + $30 for home delivery
: A note about Yellow. Their drivers are generally first rate. I use them
	(SNIP)
	Yellow dropped a Rider-Ericsson Stirling engine of mine, on the 
way to the Owls Head Auction. It sold for $4k less than I paid for it, 
thanks to their little boo-boo with a forklift. I got stuck with jury 
duty and "life in general" and wound up dealing on the phone with some 
weasel that refused to cough up on the insured (by them) value 
difference. A time press and an obnoxious couple of phonecalls and I had 
to settle for a pittance. I will NEVER use Yellow again!!!
 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Ed's First Corollary to Murphy's Law: 	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	ALL odds are 50-50...
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From marklinc@ocala.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35156 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.atlantic.net!usenet
From: Robin Corsiglia <marklinc@ocala.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help ID a Steam Enigne
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:46:41 +0000
Organization: Internet Connect Company +1(352)375-2912, USA
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Check out my Web page on Toy Steam Enignes and help me Identify three
Steam Engines.



http://www.atlantic.net/~marklinc/


Thanks
Robin Corsiglia
Ocala, FL


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35157 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!in2p3.fr!swidir.switch.ch!surfnet.nl!sun4nl!EU.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!spool.news.idt.net!news
From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:14:19 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3243DC1B.688F@mail.idt.net>
References: <51vodn$f0g@hil-news-svc-3.compuserve.com> <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>
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To: Chris Pollard <cpollard@csn.net>

Not really surprised.   Somebody mentioned that the "only thing not 
metric" on many U.S. cars is the sparkplugs.  They would be surprised to 
remember that sparkplugs were the _first_ thing on U.S. cars to use 
metric measures.  The old 15 mm vs 18 mm plugs have been around for forty 
years.

   Funny thing is that, while the diameter of the hole is metric, the 
thread on the plug is not.  Actually, the great difference in metric 
standard threads is more of an impediment to the switch than the fiddling 
around and squawking we do.


From sherrick@slonet.org Fri Sep 27 16:08:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35158 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!super.zippo.com!zdc-e!news-out.microserve.net!news-in.microserve.net!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.callamer.com!spork.callamer.com!sherrick
From: Steve Herrick <sherrick@slonet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:33:23 -0700
Organization: Call America Internet Services  +1 (805) 541 6316
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.960918233108.888I-100000@spork.callamer.com>
References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <felice.225.323F744C@pioneer.net>
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I've seen spec for titanium, 1/5 the weight of steel (aluminum is 1/3)
and tensile strength for some alloy/heat treat combos in the 240,000 range
(this is higher than some stainless steels)

Sure I'd like a crowbar or any other tool made out of Titanium.....

Hrolthgar -   sherrick@slonet.org
           Steve Herrick



From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35159 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!spool.news.idt.net!news
From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP!  Source of stainless U-channel 1/2" X 1/2" X 8'
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:28:55 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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I need a source of stainless U-channel, hopefully up to eight feet 
long, using .030" or so 321 stainless.  The actual application is for an 
experimental aircraft, and it calls for .015" to be cut in 1.5" strips, 
then folded over 1/2" on each edge and bent 90-degrees, leaving a U with 
two .03" sides and a .15" bottom.

   The extra weight of having a solid .03" "U" doesn't bother me at all 
-- has to be stronger if anything, and I don't see myself folding and
shearing 8' strips of stainless, nor do I relish the idea of having a 
specialty shop do it.

   I know there is a mild steel "U" channel in various sizes, and even 
galvanized I think.  But does anybody make a _stainless_ U-channel 1/2" 
on a side?  Even if it was, say 6' instead of 8' I could probably make it 
work.

   Don't know where to start, but this group has already answered some 
off-the-wall questions for me involving titanium jet engine parts, so I'm 
hoping.
				Thanks, Tony


From skarsaune@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35160 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: skarsaune@aol.com (Skarsaune)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 21 Sep 1996 06:17:54 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Check the new issue of HSM for an article on hot bluing, also.
Chuck


From andrea@greenwich.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:08:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35161 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!btnet!news.uk0.vbc.net!news.netkonect.net!pulp.nildram.co.uk!news
From: andrea@greenwich.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.misc
Subject: Fine crafts @ www.greenwich.co.uk
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 11:25:56 GMT
Organization: Greenwich WorldWide Ltd.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.glass:3278 rec.crafts.jewelry:14504 rec.crafts.metalworking:35161 rec.crafts.misc:24023 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4931

Unique style and beauty is represented in top quality hand made
silverware, jewellery, furniture, textiles and other traditional items
made using time-honoured skills by some of Britain and Ireland's most
prestigious craftspeople. Here you will find exquisite original
contemporary designs alongside traditional goods with a strong feeling
of heritage. The common thread is superb quality.

Greenwich WorldWide Limited is a small, family run business
representing British and Irish craftspeople who are unable to justify
a stand-alone presence on the Internet.

The Greenwich WorldWide Portfolio was launched just last month and may
be found at:

	http://www.greenwich.co.uk


From bwinterb@intranet.ca Fri Sep 27 16:08:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35162 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news.bconnex.net!news2.insinc.net!news.intranet.ca!ppp1-deep
From: bwinterb@intranet.ca (Bruce Winterbon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric vs inches: "Jerry" building
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 96 11:20:54 GMT
Organization: Intranet Technologies
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <520j5s$mrr@news.intranet.ca>
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In article <3243E321.E64@mail.idt.net>, "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net> wrote:
>Oops.  As I recall, "Jerry" building is politically incorrect.  Think 
>it has something to do with an ethnic slur for Germans, or what Americans 
>a century ago thought were their close cousins, the Dutch.  Maybe someone 
>remembers the specifics, but it's kind of funny to refer to a botched job 
>as one done in the German fashion.  Some of my German relatives would 
>take offense, and they certainly seem to use metrics competently.
>					Tony
I think it's more likely a corruption of the nautical "jury building", or, 
more commonly in a nautical context, "jury rigging", where "jury" is a 
contraction of "injury". So it refers, originally, not to a botched job, but 
to an emergency repair.

Bruce Winterbon
bwinterb@intranet.ca
http://intranet.ca:80/~bwinterb



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35163 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Logan Lathe
Date: 21 Sep 1996 13:15:50 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 15
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Hi All,

Just wanted to let everyone know, one of our compatriots has a Model 200
Logan Lathe for sale.  Details are at

http://www.LoganAct.com/ads.htm
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/21/96 08:15
 http://www.loganact.com




From jmcmun@digital-cafe.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35164 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: formula for number thread o.d.
Organization: Jamun Industries
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The formula for the outside diameter of number threads (inch system)
is "the number times 13 plus .060".  

Example:  a number 10 screw = 10 x 13 = .130, .130 plus .060 = .190

an 0-80 = .060 dia.

Jay


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35165 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: For 9" SB lathe and Van Norman 1/2 mill
Date: 21 Sep 1996 12:35:52 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <09960821073330.OUI25.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <51v3g3$j09@lex.zippo.com>, From Bob Haskell, the following 
was written:
> Want to buy the following for a 1927 9" South Bend Lathe, catalog # 
> 322YC:
> 
> - steady rest
> - follower rest
> - spindle nose cap
> - thread dial

Bob,

We have these parts for Logan Lathes, which are very similar to the
South Bend. If you'll send me your mailing address (via private e-mail),
I'll send you a catalog, and a sketch showing some approximate
dimensions, which may help to determine if ours will work.

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/21/96 07:35
 http://www.loganact.com




From therbert@accesscomm.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35166 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bluto.accesscomm.net!usenet
From: therbert@accesscomm.net (Tom Herbert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:21:30 GMT
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
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Message-ID: <51uupf$ea8@bluto.accesscomm.net>
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"Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>> 
>> I believe the original units were designed and built in Indianapolis.  A
>> .22 version is difficult in that the feed magazines must be able to deal
>> with .22s not stacking parallel like the original ammo.  Other than that,
>> it ought to be a piece of cake.

The original Gatling guns fired the .45 Gov't cartridge, known to us
now as the .45-70.  They have projecting heads, just like a .22LR.
You just have to exercise reasonable care when loading the magazines.





From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:08:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35167 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:53:07 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 10
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That was another reason why I was wondering mhat blueing salts are.
				Cheers,

On 21 Sep 1996, Skarsaune wrote:

> Check the new issue of HSM for an article on hot bluing, also.
> Chuck
>
>



From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35168 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS 16" Ohio Shaper $50. Detroit Mi area
Date: 21 Sep 1996 14:28:43 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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I have had a few internet messages about this shaper and I don't know if 
Prodigy is letting me reply to the internet addresses.  So, as of this 
date Sat. Sept 21,1996 I still have the shaper it is in good working 
condition, I have an engine hoist that will probably lift one end of the 
shaper up at a time, the best or easiest way to move this shaper is to 
hire a roll back car hauler and have them winch it up and then off the 
truck at your location. The shaper weights about 3500 lbs it is in my 
garage, and I would like it moved as soon as possible, I need the room in 
my shop. I live off of Interstate 696 and Evergreen road in Southfield 
Michigan.  Thanks, Bob L.  810-353-1676 is my phone since I cannot seem 
to get out by E-mail.



From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:08:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35169 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!atmnet.net!newshub.cts.com!news7.crl.com!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 09:41:58 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32441AD6.7EA0@ldl.net>
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James Wilkins wrote:
> 
> > It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
> > grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
> > uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
> > tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
> > can be had for under $200.
> ...I took a piece of thick wall (nearly 1" thick) tubing from the scrap 
yard and turned the ID to fit the body of my air-driven die grinder, cut 
a slot in it to clear the hand lever, drilled and tapped for 2 5/16 
screws to hold the die grinder against the tube, welded a tang on it to 
fit the lantern-type tool holder on my lathe and used a fat rubber band 
to hold the hand lever down...the stone was  1" dia cylindrical, I 
dressed about half the length at a 30-or-so degree angle to pull the tool 
away from the work.

...Accuracy is determined by the ability of the operator, limitations 
of the tool seem to be only the recovery time of the air compressor 
driving it, cost was about a buck plus 2 hours shop time, not counting 
the value of the die grinder and stone which I already had and which can 
be bought reasonably cheap depending on the quality desired. It is also 
very light compared to the commercial grinders I have seen advertised.  
It was good enough to grind a roller-bearing surface on a shaft that I 
had built up with hardfacing rod.

...I recommend ear protection, the whiney little devil will drive you up 
the wall....

				Jack

...Noted for cheap, simple solutions (and complex descriptions of them)



From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:08:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35170 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!cpk-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.tufts.edu!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: 20 Sep 1996 12:49:00 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <jesw-2009960853280001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <01bba6a5$139ea7c0$35cfb7c7@johnnico>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
> grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
> uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
> tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
> can be had for under $200.

Dumore thinks that the MOTOR on a Model 14 is worth about $500.

> 
> Why don't we make up a wooden pattern and have a dozen main bodies cast up?
>  If we can agree on which bearings to use :).  I would'nt mind putting in a
> little CAD time to help draw it up.  Any takers?
> 
> John Nicol                      jnicol@ix.netcom.com

A Quorn?


From jlovallo@mixcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35171 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!homer.alpha.net!usenet
From: jlovallo@mixcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 21 Sep 1996 15:20:52 GMT
Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <52114k$fgn@homer.alpha.net>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial43-4.mixcom.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

Jeff, I used to do some gun bluing using a mixture of sodium hydroxide (lye) and
ammonium sulphate (fertilizer).  Temperature control for bluing is critical, the amount of 
lye in the solution is used to control the temperature.  This solution produced a very
dense hard finish, but.... When mixing the solution, much strong ammonia gas is produced.
Do it outdoors and don't get downwind.

John



From hollen@vigra.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35173 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.thenet.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Posting letters
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 15:19:45 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <ncd8zfnbea.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
References: <32433CEE.4361@sk.sympatico.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.254.9.2
In-Reply-To: George Pearce's message of Fri, 20 Sep 1996 18:55:10 -0600
Cc: pearg@sk.sympatico.ca
X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.1

>> George Pearce writes:

GP> I recently posted a letter about a backhoe I built, and have had
GP> some replies. I am new to groups on the net and was wondering how
GP> long a letter stays on the net, because mine was only there for
GP> about a day.

A little Internet lesson is in order.  News postings are never stored
"on the net" as such.  They travel out from your site to other sites
over the net and *every* site stores a *copy* on a physical disk on
their site (unless they get their news from someone else, in which
case the provider is the only one who stores it).  So you sent your
question out, it gets stored on the disk at my company.  How long it
stays depends solely on my company, how much disk space we have and
how many newsgroups we get which fill up the disk space how quickly.

Your posting disappeared from whoever your news provider's site is in
a day.  I would venture to guess that it will remain on *my* site for
at least a month.  The fact that it disappeared from your site in a
day has no bearing on how long other people will be able to read it
and in fact, because news has to make hops down a tree structure to
reach most sites, chances are good that if your provider has a 1 day
expire, people elsewhere out in cyberspace will receive your posting
loooong after it has disappeared from your site.

Also, depending on the particular newsgroup, there are sites which
are designated archives for certain groups and keep the postings for
years. 

dion
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35174 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Questions answered about BAEM
Date: 21 Sep 1996 17:12:52 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <5217mk$5c@news1.svc>
References: <5213dn$jqj@news1.svc>
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Guess I should have mentioned that we are located in the San Francisco Bay Area of 
California.

Thanks,

Mike



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:08:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35175 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: table for milling machine
Date: 21 Sep 1996 16:51:21 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <5216e9$5c@news1.svc>
References: <32400ED0.41A6@fx.com>
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Richard,

What does this mean?  The bolts are somehow raising the surface of the steel?
The bolts come up from the bottom or down throught the new steel?

>As one might have suspected, after a period of months the bolts holding
>the top began to telegraph to the surface.
>
>I would prefer to build a new table top from a slab of grey iron
>(like meehanite) or buy a table off a junked machine.  I seem to 
>remember also that there was a source of moderately large positioning
>tables (5"x18") for lab use, but I cannot recall the source.

I'd make a pattern and have it poured.  Most tables are somewhat hollow to 
save weight as I recall.  Also, you could at least core the vertical slot
portion of the T-slots.


Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35176 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 21 Sep 1996 17:08:52 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <5217f4$5c@news1.svc>
References: <51k3l5$9s3@news.dca.net> <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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ON the way to making a new sleeve to bear against the register, I'd try the following:

1.  clamp a ground bar of the maximum size that can be held by the Jacobs, in a collet 
or better yet, a 4-jaw chuck.  Set the bar up to run as true as possible.  Allow the 
bar to extend no more than the depth of the jaws in the Jacobs or, center drill the 
bar and run it between centers, then take a trueing cut on it.

2.  Clamp the Jacobs to the bar, nose towards the spindle.
3.  Take a truing pass on the rear face of the Jacobs.
4.  Take a light boring pass on the internal face of the Jacobs where it bears 
against the register of the spindle.

Now, but the Jacobs on the spindle and test the run-out.  Might work.  I do not use 
the spindle register when I make chuck backing plates.  Threads are essentially a 
spiral taper.  They center the chuck and the shoulder/back surface of the chuck 
assures a repeatable centering action.  I've backing plates made 4 years ago using 
this method that are still as true (very close to zero run-out) as the day they were 
made.

5.  If this does not work, then the threads are probably not centered relative to the 
jaw registers in the chuck and you will then have to bore the back side out and 
install a sleeve and then bore it to a close fit on the spindle register.  

Note, you should preserve concentricity by mounting the Jacobs on a true running bar 
using its own jaws.

Second note:  You can true up one of the poorly made Indian chucks by clamping the 
chuck onto a true running bar and taking a cut on the backside of the chuck.  On 
four-jaw chucks, don't forget to true the register ring too.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus


P.S.  Scott, I'd think there is a market for a Jacobs or better yet, a higher 
precision, keyless chuck to be mounted on the spindle.



From bgoudge@fox.nstn.ca Fri Sep 27 16:09:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35177 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!hookup!news.nstn.ca!news
From: bgoudge@fox.nstn.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: pewter casting-pit problems
Date: 21 Sep 1996 18:58:37 GMT
Organization: NSTN Navigator User
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <521dst$kla@news.nstn.ca>
Reply-To: bgoudge@fox.nstn.ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: ts2-11.amh.istar.ca
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.14

using a centerfugal casting machine and vulcanized rubber molds I have a 
problem of pits on smooth surfaces of my castings. I have tried 3 
different types of pewter,different speeds,different pressure,different 
molds,drying my powder and I still come up with pits. I haven't had the 
time to research to find if weather affects casting. Can anyone help?



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35178 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 12:59:54 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <01bba508$e1d56280$86c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 15-191.client.gnn.com
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 19 Sep 1996 12:59:54 GMT
X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

In article <51ptgu$d3c@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>, From 
mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken), the following was written:
> The jacobs headstock chucks are drill chucks which were manufactured
> to thread onto various threaded lathe spindles such as 1"-10thd,
> 1-1/2"-8thd. and so on.

Dave,

A couple of questions, which I hope you can answer:

#1 - I understand these chucks are no longer made by Jacobs, or anyone
else.  Is this true? Any idea why?

#2 - After talking with some other dealers, it seems these are VERY
popular. I am told by some folks that they get $100 per each, and as
soon as they come in, there sold.  If this runout can be such a problem,
why are they so popular?

#3 - Do you think there is a market for these chucks today?
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/19/96 07:59
 http://www.loganact.com




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35179 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Questions answered about BAEM
Date: 21 Sep 1996 15:59:51 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 83
Message-ID: <5213dn$jqj@news1.svc>
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I've been asked by a number of people to give a few details about our local model 
engineering club.  Here, by way of reply, is at least a partial answer.  What is 
missing is the 'flavor' of meeting with a bunch of people from wildly differing walks 
of life, from Surgeon to Carpenter, who all have a deep love for things mechanical and 
making it for themselves.  The monthly meetings are usually the highlight of my 
modeling month.  I learn new tricks from amateur and professional alike.

For example, the guy who built the table-top milling machine (described only briefly 
below) is a master machinist who built everything but the DC drive motor on the mill. 
He made the patterns, machined all of the castings (this thing weighs over 100 Lbs so 
it does cut very well), made all of the tools to make the tools and even designed and 
built his own table drive.  For those of you who have seen his Curtis V-12 on the back 
cover of Strictly IC, you know Al is a magician with metal.  Much of the V-12 was 
machined on his mill.

BAEM (we held our September meeting last night) is a loose collection of model 
engineers who's interest is focused (but not to the exclusion of anything else 
mechanical) on model IC engines.

The club has 55 members and is Branch 57 of the Early Day Gas Engine & Tractor 
Association. We were EDGE&TAs first branch with a model vice real-sized hardware.  The 
advantage of associating with EDGE&TA is access to other clubs and the regional and 
national shows, we have some force of numbers behind us if we need political clout for 
some reason or other, and we enjoy the liability insurance that covers any official 
function.

BAEM meets most months at Bennetts Automotive in Hayward.  Paul Bennett, club member 
and genuinely nice guy, runs a reproduction Ford Cobra manufacturing activity at that 
location. One of our benefits last year was a wild ride in a 427 Cobra.  0-120-0 in 
less than one city block.  Pressed the old retinas right back where they belong.

Our diversity is best described by the objects presented at the meeting last night{

The club President brought a steam locomotive, fired it up and ran it on its ball 
bearing stand.
An Atkinson cycle model engine, complete but for a few minor ignition details
A 'Little Angel' hit and miss engine, again complete but for a few minor details.
Two adjustable tailstock centers for achieving that perfect alignment.
One of the new 'Drill Doctors' drill sharpeners from Darex.
Two triple-compound steam engines, radio controlled, to drive a member's six foot tug 
boat.
A small milling machine cast and built as one of 7 units by one of our master 
machinist members.  Had a tool-holder base fastened to the table (actually built in to 
the table) that allowed the removal and replacement of the vice with an indexing head 
or rotary table.
A RC model aircraft.
A tubing bender
A fitted wooden case for a set of three Brown and Sharp machinist squares

In the give-away pile were:
A large lot of large syringes with blunt needles suitable for oil and grease 
applicators
Enough tubes of red spotting grease for everyone in attendance.

We also decided to proceed on our plans to hold a greater Bay Area Model Engineering 
show next year at this time.  A Chairman was appointed and, with any luck and a lot of 
hard work, we will be on the way.  Model engineering clubs from around the area will 
be encouraged to participate, both in the management of and participation in the show.
We expect steam, IC, airplane, boat, tank, warship, clock, and even full-sized machine 
clubs to participate.  Sort of a something for everyone mechanical bonanza.  I'd 
expect one or two exemplary automobiles and trucks to somehow make their way into the 
agenda.

Anyone wanting more information or who wants to participate should contact me ASAP and 
I will put you in contact with the show chairman.

Membership in BAEM runs from Jan 1 to Dec 31.  Dues, which will somewhat increase this 
year, were $25 and includes The Crank Calls, our monthly newsletter (pictures in 
color), membership in the national EDGE&TA club (lets you into any function of the 
branches), and the opportunity to meet with an great group of people.

If you would like any further information, please contact me at
408 251-9959 or via e-mail at mrehmus@shell.portal.com

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus

P.S.  My service provider is getting out of the business and I will have to find a new 
home for everything including the club Web page containing portions of The Crank 
Calls.  I'll publish the new location when everything is operational.  Meanwhile, they 
'promise' to forward my mail.



From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35180 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 20 Sep 96 01:17:27 -0700
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <51hvv9$e50@orb.direct.ca> <51i8li$i4v@hermes.acs.unt.edu> <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <51m170$3th@news.intranet.ca>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+000034f6@msn.com>
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-3.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!news.msn.com!msn.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 31

Bruce Winterbon Wrote:
>In article <51k7cs$424@gazette.engr.sgi.com>,
>   cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:
>>
>>	1 fluid oz of water (U.S.) weighs 1 oz avoirdupois.  So a pint (16 fl.
>>	oz.) weighs 1 pound (16 oz. av.).  Didn't even need my calculator for
>>	that. :)  
>>
>>Or, more simply put, "A pint's a pound the world around."
>>
>Wrong on all counts. 1 Imperial fl. oz weighs 1 avoirdupois ounce. 1 
US ounce 
>weighs more. Water weighs 10 lb/Imperial gallon=160 fl oz, but more than 
>8lb/US gallon=128 US fl oz. An Imperial pint is 20 fl oz. Thus in NO part of 
>the world is a pint a pound.
>
>Bruce Winterbon
>bwinterb@intranet.ca
>http://intranet.ca:80/~bwinterb


Bruce,
	According to the CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 60th Ed, The 
weight of one US Gallon of water in dry air at 1 Atm ranges from 
8.33590 lbs, to 7.9894 lbs (100 Deg C).  Now if we figure that one 
Pint is 1/8 Gal, and that one Oz = 1/16 lb, and that one Gal = 128 
FlOz then Water weighs in at between 1.042 lbs/pint to .999 lbs/pt 
(Read 1 lb 0.672 oz to 15.984 ozs). I'd say that Chris is right 1pt = 
1lb

Charlie


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:09:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35181 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!nebo.vii.com!xmission!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gingery bandsaw
Date: 20 Sep 1996 11:47:16 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 33
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 10/20/96
Message-ID: <51uork$86c@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
References: <323E249A.29EE@en.com> <51mtar$33o@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <32400353.6A13@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <32400353.6A13@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>,
Byron D. Krohn <bdkrohn@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Greg Lewis wrote:
>> 
>> In article <323E249A.29EE@en.com>, Ed Smega  <smega@en.com> wrote:
>> >I saw an ad in the Lindsay  catalog for plans for a Gingery Bandsaw.  I
>> >have seen the complaints about the Enco $200 bandsaw so I am
>
>Hi Greg, I hope you would answer a couple of questions for a newby:
>
>1) What is the address, (E-mail, or Snail-mail) for Enco?
>

I replied by email and said, basically, check the FAQ at
plains.uwyo.edu for suppliers. I have had bad experiences with Enco
and do not recommend them.

>2) Where could a guy get information on a Gingery Bandsaw?

Again, in the FAQ is the address of Lindsay Publications, a good
source for many interesting books including the Gingery series.

>
>
>Many thanks,

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From bconner@cybercom.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35182 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cybercom.net!mfd-dial4-24.cybercom.net!user
From: bconner@cybercom.net (Bruce Conner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 22 Sep 1996 01:50:00 GMT
Organization: Cyber Access Internet Services (617) 396-0491
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <bconner-2109962152000001@mfd-dial4-24.cybercom.net>
References: <51u9v3$p23@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca> <520fci$dnl@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960921055139.13625A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mfd-dial4-24.cybercom.net
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b4


Here is some information from the Dixie Gun Works catalog on a simple
blueing solution using (guess what?) fertilizer!

Mix one part sodium nitrate, two parts caustic soda, and two parts water
by volume. Mix and boil ONLY in a steel or enamelled container, NEVER in
aluminum.  Boil the parts at 280 to 315 degrees F until the desired color
is obtained.  

Looks as if the salts raise the boiling point a bit there. :')  Also, be
sure to degrease your parts completely and all that.  Be careful, this
solution sounds nasty if you were to get any on you.


Bruce Conner
bconner@cybercom.net


From hjkratt@cybertron.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35183 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cybertron.com!news
From: Henry Kratt <hjkratt@cybertron.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rivett 608 Lathe
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 20:54:52 -0700
Organization: Dark Star Mining
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3244B88C.789@cybertron.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: meridian-pm1-s12.cybertron.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02E-KIT  (Win16; U)

I need a copy of a users manual for this 1940's vintage lathe.  I also 
need 24dp x 3/8" face gears of 70, 28 and 112 tooth configurations for 
the Quick Change gear box.

Henry Kratt


From dornbush@myriad.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35184 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsbuffer.myriad.net!news.myriad.net!usenet
From: dornbush@myriad.net (Andrew Dornbusch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 18:25:52 GMT
Organization: DigiPhone Corporation, Bryan/College Station Texas 409-693-8885
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <5218hj$6be@news.myriad.net>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <Pine.A32.3.94.960920082353.78119A-100000@umabnet.ab.umd.edu> <51u9rh$kvq@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup573.myriad.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

>By the way, there is NO prohibition for building this model, working or
>otherwise. It is NOT a machine gun, and you are permitted to make a
>firearm for personal use. I think you would be nuts to fire this model
>personally, but there is no law against doing so.

As I recall, the way the law runs is that you can build any
non-'destructive device'  firearm you wish for your own
experimentation, BUT YOU CAN NEVER SELL IT.  You 
cannot transfer it in any way, by sale, gift, or inheritance unless
you get a manufacturer's FFL and register it.  I assume when you die
it must be destroyed.

I have copies of the Blue and Yellow books, so if anyone requires the
reference, I will look it up.

BTW, 'Destructive device' refers to machine guns, short-barrel
shotguns, artillery, supressors, and similar restricted items.  Hand
operated Gatling guns are not classified as machine guns.





From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35185 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:31:16 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <3241E342.689@holli.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cin-oh5-03.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 19  8:42:18 PM CDT 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; U)
CC: kevrhods@ix.netcom.com

Dan Bollinger wrote:
> 
> Jay McMunn wrote:
> >
> > A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
> > Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
> > these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
> > machine shop and does nice work.
> >
> > thanx,
> >
> > Jay, North Idaho
> 
> Jay;
> 
> Ought to be a very useful item if fending off a miniature calvary!
> 
> I believe the original units were designed and built in Indianapolis.  A
> .22 version is difficult in that the feed magazines must be able to deal
> with .22s not stacking parallel like the original ammo.  Other than that,
> it ought to be a piece of cake.
> 
> Add an electric motor and electric primers and you have a mini-gun!
> 
> Caution:  Does this fall under the heading of semi-auto or full-auto,
> just a thought to your legal department.
> 
> Oh, yeah, please post a warning before you start shooting so the rest of
> us can duck..............
> 
> Dan Bollinger
> Industrial Designer

Technically, it is not a machine gun although it may sound like one.  It 
would actually be a semi-automatic in that the trigger would be manually 
depressed (by turning the crank) for each shot.  I had read something to 
this effect in Machine Gun News.

The GE mini-gun is not technically a machine gun, but try to convince the 
ATF.

Kevin Rhodes


From johnd@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35186 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.stealth.net!solace!eru.mt.luth.se!news.algonet.se!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Low Cost Lathes (was Re: emco maier ... (was..)
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 16:23:37 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <5214s0$gqe@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14> <323EDDA9.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca> <51rjg8$dq4@news1.svc> <51tej4$sn6@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <felice.232.3242C32F@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i1-46.islandnet.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) wrote:


>I'll take this as an opportunity to reccomend a book I just
>bought at a used book store : Precision Machine Design
>by Alexander Slocum, Prentice Hall(?) 1992.

Good Idea.

>I cast my vote for replaceable v ways made out of ground square stock,
>fitted into an aluminum (or cast iron) bed with female vees cut into it.
>Since the motor is usually a significant part of the cost of a lathe, and most 
>of us have surplus motors, I would say it should be able to use any sort
>of single speed (1750 rpm) motor.

Wouldn't replaceable V ways increase the cost?

My idea here is to use CAM expertise to produce a high quality lathe
and not to make another homebuilt version of the Gingery lathe.  Not
to say that the Gingery lathe cannot be high quality,  just high
labour.

This implies setting a casting into a CNC Mill and having it bring all
surfaces to the correct dimension and drilling all holes for bolts.
Perhaps such a machine can even tap all the required holes.  Perhaps
this will need a second machine.

John




Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Sep 27 16:09:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35187 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!cunews!freenet-news.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ch270
From: ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John P.Beckley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Graphite Crucibles......
Date: 21 Sep 1996 20:48:50 GMT
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Lines: 5
Sender: ch270@freenet2.carleton.ca (John P.Beckley)
Message-ID: <521kbi$5ob@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
Reply-To: ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John P.Beckley)
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.carleton.ca


Need reliable soarce for # 6 and #8 graphite crucibles for casting
bronze........




From 70200.144@CompuServe.COM Fri Sep 27 16:09:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35188 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Norman Leet <70200.144@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Magazines
Date: 21 Sep 1996 21:56:57 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <521ob9$61h$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>

Hello,
  I am trying to find a metalworking or machining magazine
subscription for a nephew (age approx 17) as a birthday gift. The
only two that I have managed to stumble across are:
"The Home Shop Machinist"     (pretty good)
"American Machinist"          (a tad too sophisticated)
  If anyone can offer any other suggestions, I would appreciate
hearing from you!
-Norm Leet
Internet addr: ah255@dayton.wright.edu


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35189 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <221@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:14:55 GMT
Subject: Re: blade2.jpg
Lines: 14

Will the person posting uuencoded files to this group 
PLEASE STOP IT! NOW!

I have to download my news and e-mail via a phone line that costs
me money (lots).  My normal download takes between 30 - 60
seconds.  This morning it took 5 minutes!

There is a specific group for metalwork-related binaries - this is
for plain-text communication only.  If this carries on I will have
to abandon this newsgroup. 

<end rant>

 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35190 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!laura.pcug.co.uk!lathyrus!djenkins
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <222@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14> <323EDDA9.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca><51rjg8$dq4@news1.svc>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:23:48 GMT
Subject: Re: emco maier (was Well I bought a lathe....)
Lines: 33

 
In article <51rjg8$dq4@news1.svc>, Mike Rehmus (mrehmus@shell.portal.com) writes:
>I have a slightly different take on the issue of the disappearing 'good' machine tool 
>manufacturers.
>
>1.  The reason most of the 'good' guys are disappearing is that machine shops need to 
>go CNC to survive.  The old 'good' guys either start supplying CNC like South Bend 
>does or they disappear.
>
>2.  The amateur market can only sustain a few manufacturers in the world.  If we lose 
>EMCO and, gasp, should I say it, Myford, we folks would be in a world of hurt 
>vis-a-vis our hobby.
>
 A small add-on:  my model engineering club recently hosted a
presentation by one of the bosses from Myford.  We can count our
blessings that they are one of the few British companies who
predicted the modern ways of the world and invested heavily and
early in ultra high-tech CNC machinery.  This means that they can
still produce their goods to the same standard without being too
expensive for the amateur.  The downside is that their workforce
was cut by a half.

In their current setup, one skilled man feeds 4 or 5 monstrous
machines.

He made one fascinating comment... the series 7 lathe has bronze
bearings, weighing about 1 pound each and about 4" diameter.  These
are hand-fitted and expensive to produce, but very accurate.  The
latest 254 lathe was designed to match that accuracy, but using
ball or roller bearings. The new bearings are huge, and need 2
hands to lift!



David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
***********************************************************************
* All incorrect spelling and grammar is intentional.  Corrections are *
* superfluous and will be ignored.  So there.                         *




From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35191 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 21 Sep 1996 18:31:03 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 27
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <521qb7$qpe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <felice.229.3241F333@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <felice.229.3241F333@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) writes:

>>In <09960819074531.OUI05.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
>>writes: 
>
>
>>>
>>>#3 - Do you think there is a market for these chucks today?
>>> 
>
>I would love a 3/4-16 threaded Jacobs chuck to screw directly onto my
Taig 
>spindle. All the methods for attaching chucks to small lathes don't allow
>feeding material through the spindle, as the thread is usually 3/8 NF. I
>also think that this would replace the collet system for many uses. Can
you 
>get blank bodies from jacobs, which could be altered?
>
>

  Look in your MSC catalog. They show that jacobs makes a heavy duty chuck
with 3/4-16 threads. It has a capacity range of .188 in to .800 in. While
not a Ball Bearing Super Chuck they do a pretty good job.

                                 Hope this helps
                                    LWC


From gedwards@onramp.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35192 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!rain.fr!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Posting letters
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 17:38:17 -0500
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32446E59.56AB@onramp.net>
References: <32433CEE.4361@sk.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: gedwards@onramp.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: laurel39.onramp.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
To: pearg@sk.sympatico.ca

George Pearce wrote:
> 
> Hi;
>   I recently posted a letter about a backhoe I built, and have had some
> replies. I am new to groups on the net and was wondering how long a
> letter stays on the net, because mine was only there for about a day.
>                                Thanks,
>                                     G.P.
Other folks have explained that your specific provider determines how
long the news posting is "available" and that this is dependent on the
size of their specific newsgroup dedicated disc space.

Also, the Browser program you are using and/or the Newreader will often
determine how many times you will automatically see postings.  I use
Netscape and I have set up preferences so that unless I other wise
specify, I never see postings after I have read them once.  They are
still around....I just don't see them.  After reading today's postings,
I will "mark the newsgroup read" so I don't continue to see the same
articles over and over.

George


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35193 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!info.ucla.edu!agate!ames!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Darex Drill Doctor experience - round 2
Date: 21 Sep 1996 16:46:45 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 73
Message-ID: <52165l$t8l@news1.svc>
References: <51t8ib$ed6@news1.svc>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1 (Windows; U; 16bit)

Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:

I called Darex Friday morning.  By 4 PM, they had called me twice. 

First the Marketing Manager called me to discuss the problems.  Was very concerned that the device work 
correctly.  He offered to swap the unit or refund my money if we could not make everything work correctly.

Second, an engineer called to discuss the issues.  I have been asked to sharpen a drill and mail it to them 
for evaluation.

These guys are interested in the product working correctly.  What a refreshing experience!

One interesting point (I think I've heard it before somewhere) is that a drill sharpened on any Darex machine 
will not look like those purchased off the shelf at the local hardware store.  They have a different approach 
to drill sharpening.  Apparently even their $600 or $3000 machines turn out drills with the same approximate 
characteristics.

>Well, after a three week wait, not two as promised, I got my new Drill Doctor.
>
>I might be wrong (hope I am) but it doesn't seem to work all that well.
>
>1.  The 22,000 rpm will burn the drill bit.

     Well, if you don't press too hard it seems OK.  Still it is a bit disturbing to hear the blender sound so 
close to one's prize drills.
>
>2.  The aligning device for positioning the drill in the collet is a bit tricky to 
>operate.  It is somewhat easy to get the drill out of position.  Then you get no or a 
>reverse clearance.

This is still suspect.  It is also designed for drills of 'nominal' twist.  A high spiral drill is likely to 
be ground a bit 'off' using this alignment technique.  So would a non-twist drill.
>
>3.  The drills I sharpened all were ground with too little clearance.  Looks pretty 
>good for brass, maybe too little for steel.  (however, one drill I tried cut 
>reasonably well.  my eyes could be miscalibrated)  Whatever, this is where the setup 
>seems the shakiest.

Tried a few more in a demo at the monthly club meeting last night.  Still, the clearance is
very small.  I sharpened a drill that had been abused by someone.  It took two passes because the corners were 
severly rounded.  The drill cut steel pretty good, however.

>
>4.  The diamond wheel is quite rough and the ground finish on the drill bit is not 
>what I'd call smooth.  (perhaps it will smooth out after some use.

It is starting to smooth out, just as Darex claimed.
>
>5.  The grinding process leaves a fair burr behind the cutting edge which must be 
>stoned off.  (this has never been a problem when free-hand grinding drill bits)

This is caused by the direction of the grind, the wheel sweeps toward the cutting edge from the back.  This 
doesn't seem to be much of a problem as the burr breaks right off when the first hole is drilled.
>
>6.  The depth stop that sets clamping depth in the collet seems a bit too shallow on 
>drills that have some damage.  Especially if the cutting edge has rounded off and a 
>fair amount of material has to be removed.  You have to free-hand grind the tip into 
>some semblance of proper geometry first.
>
Always going to be the case.

>Tomorrow, I'll call Darex and see what they have to say.  I'd like this thing to work 
>so I don't have to save for a 'big professional model'.  More later.


End of saga number two.  Overall, I'd guess the Drill Doctor will turn out to be a keeper.
Club members who own the more expensive grinders think this is a pretty good value and it
does more than their high-priced versions.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35194 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!info.ucla.edu!agate!ames!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Darex Drill Doctor experience - round 2
Date: 21 Sep 1996 16:46:43 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 73
Message-ID: <52165j$t8m@news1.svc>
References: <51t8ib$ed6@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1 (Windows; U; 16bit)

Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:

I called Darex Friday morning.  By 4 PM, they had called me twice. 

First the Marketing Manager called me to discuss the problems.  Was very concerned that the device work 
correctly.  He offered to swap the unit or refund my money if we could not make everything work correctly.

Second, an engineer called to discuss the issues.  I have been asked to sharpen a drill and mail it to them 
for evaluation.

These guys are interested in the product working correctly.  What a refreshing experience!

One interesting point (I think I've heard it before somewhere) is that a drill sharpened on any Darex machine 
will not look like those purchased off the shelf at the local hardware store.  They have a different approach 
to drill sharpening.  Apparently even their $600 or $3000 machines turn out drills with the same approximate 
characteristics.

>Well, after a three week wait, not two as promised, I got my new Drill Doctor.
>
>I might be wrong (hope I am) but it doesn't seem to work all that well.
>
>1.  The 22,000 rpm will burn the drill bit.

     Well, if you don't press too hard it seems OK.  Still it is a bit disturbing to hear the blender sound so 
close to one's prize drills.
>
>2.  The aligning device for positioning the drill in the collet is a bit tricky to 
>operate.  It is somewhat easy to get the drill out of position.  Then you get no or a 
>reverse clearance.

This is still suspect.  It is also designed for drills of 'nominal' twist.  A high spiral drill is likely to 
be ground a bit 'off' using this alignment technique.  So would a non-twist drill.
>
>3.  The drills I sharpened all were ground with too little clearance.  Looks pretty 
>good for brass, maybe too little for steel.  (however, one drill I tried cut 
>reasonably well.  my eyes could be miscalibrated)  Whatever, this is where the setup 
>seems the shakiest.

Tried a few more in a demo at the monthly club meeting last night.  Still, the clearance is
very small.  I sharpened a drill that had been abused by someone.  It took two passes because the corners were 
severly rounded.  The drill cut steel pretty good, however.

>
>4.  The diamond wheel is quite rough and the ground finish on the drill bit is not 
>what I'd call smooth.  (perhaps it will smooth out after some use.

It is starting to smooth out, just as Darex claimed.
>
>5.  The grinding process leaves a fair burr behind the cutting edge which must be 
>stoned off.  (this has never been a problem when free-hand grinding drill bits)

This is caused by the direction of the grind, the wheel sweeps toward the cutting edge from the back.  This 
doesn't seem to be much of a problem as the burr breaks right off when the first hole is drilled.
>
>6.  The depth stop that sets clamping depth in the collet seems a bit too shallow on 
>drills that have some damage.  Especially if the cutting edge has rounded off and a 
>fair amount of material has to be removed.  You have to free-hand grind the tip into 
>some semblance of proper geometry first.
>
Always going to be the case.

>Tomorrow, I'll call Darex and see what they have to say.  I'd like this thing to work 
>so I don't have to save for a 'big professional model'.  More later.


End of saga number two.  Overall, I'd guess the Drill Doctor will turn out to be a keeper.
Club members who own the more expensive grinders think this is a pretty good value and it
does more than their high-priced versions.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35195 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netrix.com!holder
From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: titanium sheet
Date: 20 Sep 1996 01:08:12 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <51sqpt$2am@newshost.netrix.com>
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Philip Duclos (clouds@rmi.net) wrote:
: This is probably more than anyone here needs but...

  That being the case, are you willing to part it out?

: For sale - 1 lot of titanium sheet

[snip]

: Phil Duclos
: pjd@clouds.com


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35196 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 21:30:16 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 20
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In article <09-19-1996.10277@wwonline.com>,
Vince Catalfo <vcatalfo@wwonline.com> wrote:
:
:Titanium is a huge Russian industry. At their level Ti is worth
:only $2-3.00 per lb. This is cheaper than stainless steel. Also
:Ti is extremely, stiff, its also very light, stonger than steel,
:and easy to machine.
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This is the first time I've seen that quality ascribed to titanium.
Where do you find this "free machining" titanium, and how can I be sure
some joker hasn't substituted the kind that "wears out a half dozen or
so carbide end mills per 14" turbine blade," to paraphrase a description
that appeared earlier in this newsgroup?

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:09:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35197 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining Aluminum?
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:15:02 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Adam Whiteson (adam@lanl.gov) wrote:
: I am a woodworker who occasionally needs to work pieces of aluminum.
: Right now I need to make an inset plate for a router table out of
: 1/2" aluminum. The plate will be 10"x12" with a 3"dia circular
: throat cut out of the center.  The throat needs a ledge to
: support a 3" Lexan insert.

: My plan is to cut the rectangle with a table saw and then 
: machine the throat on a drill press using a 3/8" mill end.
: KBC has mill ends for aluminum.

How will you hold the workpiece?  Don't even think you can hold it with
your hand!  The side forces when milling are hundreds of times greater
than when drilling!  It will be ripped out of your hands and thrown
across the room.  I have had this happen with work held in a vise, but
not tightly enough.  If you want to do this on a drill press, you must
have the chuck attached with a screw to the spindle.  Many drill chucks
are open at the back end so that reversing drills can have the chuck
held by a (usually left-hand) screw.  You need a screw (probably right
hand) to hold the chuck on the taper.  A small screw (6-32 or 8-32) is
sufficient.  Then you need an X-Y table to clamp the work to, and move it 
around, to complete the 3" hole.  Another way to do this without the
X-Y table is to mount the plate rigidly, and use a fly-cutter.  You
probably still need the anchoring screw for the chuck.  You also need
to have a VERY slow speed for this operation, something under 200 RPM.
The fly-cutter is sometimes called a circle cutter.  You can find one
in the best hardware stores.


From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35198 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well I bought a lathe....
Date: 19 Sep 1996 22:32:32 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article
<Pine.OSF.3.92a.960918172657.17684A-100000@saul7.u.washington.edu>,
Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> writes:

>On 18 Sep 1996, Ray Spinhirne wrote:
>
>> Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
>> : "John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> : >I was thinking of starting with raiding the tapered wheel bearings
out
>of a
>> : >junk car and going from there.
>>
>> : I would like to also know if this will work ... I was thinking along
>> : the same lines except I was going to spend the $18 (Canadian) for a
>> : set of new trailer bearings. I am a little concerned as to how
>> : accurate these bearings are or if there will be all kinds of runout
>> : making the whole thing useless.
>>
>> : Jens
>
>As I remember roller bearings are more accurate than ball bearings.
>And the trailer bearings ought to work at vastly greater speeds than they
>see on trailers.  However the load would have to be much less.  You
aren't
>planning to press against the grinding wheel with four or fine hundred
>lbs.  ( sorry, I know I should be using dynes. ) force.
>
>Ask your industrial bearing supplier to let you look at one of the books
>on bearing selection.
>
>I have been thinking of using new roller bearings from W. W. Grainger.
>
>					Cheers,
>
>

  Browning only list 3500 RPM for tapered roller bearings, however a one
inch bearing at 3500 RPM has should carry 721 lbs. for 1000000 hours so
with the light load you might get away with it if you use a oil bath to
remove the heat generated.

  They do rate the Masterline 200 and 300 series Ball Bearings at 7500
RPM. They show a load rating of 59 lbs. at 7500 RPM and  1000000 hours for
bearings under 3/4 inches. 

  NTN shows that a 6706 (30mm bore and 37mm O.D.) is the largest deep
groove ball bearing that can be run at 20,000 RPM when in a oil bath. Its
basic load rating is 460 lbs..

  They show that a 7906 (30mm bore and 46mm O.D.) can be run at 19,000 rpm
with 1610 lbs. basic load when in oil bath. This is a angular contact
bearing which is probably suitable for a tool post grinder.


 Using grease lowers the max speed of the above ball bearings and there
are several factors that need to be taken into account. I have not taken
the time to go through them all but the above bearing would probably work
for light use without any problem.

                                                     Hope this helps
                                                             LWC


From muybean@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35199 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: tom bean <"muybean@worldnet.att.net"@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: opinions on videos and books
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 18:20:11 -0500
Organization: myself
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does anyone have any opinions or experience with which videos and books 
would be of the most value to a novice?


From yno@itsme.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35200 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: yno@itsme.net (itsme)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Saw
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 04:52:25 GMT
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tristerk@aol.com (Trister K) wrote:

>What kind of saw would I want for cutting small lengths (6-16 inches) of
>stainless steel (440c and ATS-35) up to a quater inch thick? What kind of
>blades?

>Thanks for any advice!
HELLO:  You must be a knife maker.  I use a 10 tooth bi-metal blade in
a jet vert., horz. band saw.  Works fine I also use the same setup as
avertical band saw to rough out the blades.

Roger Dole 
Buckley, WA



From siri@sonic.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35201 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Corrine Anderson <siri@sonic.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn
Subject: Craft Equipment Exchange Newsletter
Date: 21 Sep 1996 18:31:09 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35201 rec.crafts.misc:24039 rec.crafts.pottery:2678 rec.crafts.quilting:49 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:4933 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:82659 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:28883 rec.crafts.textiles.sewing:22057 rec.crafts.textiles.yarn:13227

Check out the Craft Equipment Exchange Newsletter (CEEN) for 
used equipment, unneeded supplies, display materials, etc.  
http://www.sonic.net/ceen.  Email: siri@sonic.net




From cfharris@erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35202 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 21:42:40 +0000
Organization: C. F. Harris - Consulting
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32446150.5241@erols.com>
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Dion Hollenbeck wrote:
> 
> >> Jay McMunn writes:
> 
> JM> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a
>

> Don't let anyone raise the "machine gun" ruse, a gatling gun is not
> one.  However, without a FFL (Federal Firearms License) and one of the
> proper class for *manufacturing* it is illegal to build a firearm of
> any kind other than black powder. 

Sorry Dion, but you are wrong.  You may build any non NFA fire arm you
want, provided you may legally own a firearm.  The only
tricky part is that legally, you may not sell or give the firearm to
anyone, ever.

-----
Chuck Harris
cfharris@erols.com


From pearg@sk.sympatico.ca Fri Sep 27 16:09:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35204 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!ott.istar!istar.net!van.istar!west.istar!n1van.istar!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!mongol.sasknet.sk.ca!news@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca
From: George Pearce <pearg@sk.sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Net letters
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 23:48:54 -0600
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Hi;
  I appreciate the feedback on posting letters to a group on the net.
                               
                                Thanks;
                                  G.P.


From amuller@dca.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: opinions re logan or bridgrport
Date: 21 Sep 1996 20:37:33 GMT
Organization: Alan Muller & Assoc., Inc.
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In article <32422000.4299@ix.netcom.com>, "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> says:
>
>tom bean wrote:
>> 
>> would like advice on the value of a logan model#825 lathe (10"x30") i'm
>> a complete novice without a clue. it is in reasonable condition and
>> includes a rest and a small number of tools. would this be a sensible
>> lathe to learn with?

I have a 10" Logan.  It has been a serviceable machine for me, but if 
I were looking now, I'd hold out for one with a spindle able to
take 5C collets.

am


From rrice2@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rrice2@aol.com (Rrice2)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stirling piston fitting?
Date: 21 Sep 1996 23:19:12 -0400
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Got a reply to this query in 2 days! This group is a great bunch! Many
thanks.

Roy


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:09:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Damage Revisited
Date: 13 Sep 1996 18:18:06 GMT
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Dave Ficken (mermac@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
<snip>
: that Southbend did a pretty mediocre packaging job. Six quarts of paint
: were put in the same box seperated by only some styrofoam "peanuts". It
: never would have passed the shake test I give each of my packages
: before they go out. 

We are pretty serious (and aware of Gov't. regulations) on haz-mat
shipment and handling here at the Chemistry department.  Sounds like
the broke the law at South Bend!

				Jon



From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wade Benchtop Planer
Date: 22 Sep 1996 00:55:32 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 10
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 I just picked up a cute benchtop planer Mill made by the Wade tool
Co., Waltham , Mass. Is anyone familliar with these machines? I'd love
to find some paper work. Also, I don't recognize the collet. It looks
like a scaled down 2B collet. I searched my collection of unidentified
collets and couldn't find anything like it.
Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery
PS: It's a keeper, please don't ask me to sell it!



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 21 Sep 1996 23:11:27 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 10
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Only problem with this is that it doesn't have a through hole.  The
original "Headstock Chuck" did.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/21/96 18:10
 http://www.loganact.com




From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35210 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding lead
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 13:17:14 -0700
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Vince Catalfo wrote:
> 
> In article <32375148.150836608@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
> garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) writes:
> >On Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:19:32 GMT, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
> (Andy
> >Dingley) wrote:
> >
> >>Any advice on welding lead ?  It's lead sheet, used to make shaped
> >>roof flashing panels. My first thought was to make wiped solder
> >>joints, using plumber's solder  (I can do this), but I'm told that
> >>lead can be welded quite easily with an oxy-acetylene torch.  (sounds
> >>a little odd IMHO)
> >
> >Mind you, I NEVER heard of OxAc being used on lead (very low melting
> >point), but one BIG BIG caution with flame temperatures that high is the
> >real danger of atomizing the lead, and breathing it in air.
> >
> >Garfield
> You can weld lead, first you have to clean it if its grey or charcoal
> colored. I use a steel or brass brush, use it lightly to remove the
> oxide coat on the lead. Steel wool works good to. I use regulat zinc
> chloride paste and then solder away with a 300w soldering iron. A blow
> torch etc will create an oxide coating again which prevents the lead
> from sticking together, especially old lead. If you have difficulty you
> can also use the soldering iron in a scrapping motion to remove the
> oxide coating and pudle the lead.


Lindsay's reprint of "Soldering & Brazing" (1925) calls it "lead burning" 
 It recommends that the pieces to be joined be laid out on a 
non-heat-conductive surface, edge to edge, and the edges melted together 
with a flame.  It further states that some filler metal may be necessary, 
this filler being more lead, of course.  clean the joint area first, of 
course.  I have seen oxy/acetylene used by a battery rebuilder in 
recasting battery posts; it worked for him....By way of disclaimer, this 
is not something I have ever tried myself.....

....yet....

			Jack



From anderson@darex.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: anderson <anderson@darex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magazines
Date: 22 Sep 1996 05:22:30 GMT
Organization: InfoStructure - Ashland, OR
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <522iem$ni4@news.mind.net>
References: <521ob9$61h$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip30.mind.net

Norman Leet <70200.144@CompuServe.COM> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>   I am trying to find a metalworking or machining magazine...I would appreciate
> hearing from you!
> -Norm Leet
> Internet addr: ah255@dayton.wright.edu

Norm-
Here's some that we at Darex advertise in. Some you'll find on the 
net search engines. If you need an address you can contact me at work--
http://www.darex.com
Curt Anderson

Cutting Tool Engineering
Target Audience: Business
Publishing CO: CTE Pubs., Inc.
Editor: Don Nelson
Editorial Description: Edited for the operating-management 
personnel in the metalworking & materials industries.

Metlfax Magazine  http://www.metlfax.com
Target Audience: Business
Publishing CO: Hubecore Communications, Inc.
Editor: James Masar
Editorial Description: Metlfax is a monthly digest magazine 
designed to inform its readers in the metalworking manufacturing
 field of newer redesigned production equipment & service options.

Modern Applications News --
Target Audience: Business
Publishing CO: Nelson Publishing
Editor: Larry Olson
Editorial Description: Application, design, development, 
production of all aspects of products in metalworking field. 

Modern Machine Shop --on the web
Target Audience: Business
Publishing CO: Gardner Publications Inc.
Editor: Thomas Beard
Editorial Description: Explains metalworking technology 
(metal cutting and forming machine tools, cutting tools, 
inspection equipment, CAD/CAM systems, and shop planning and 
management software) to company management, shop-floor managers,
 production engineers and other supervisory and plant floor 
management people in small and large plants.




From CJGJ59A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.thenet.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Mr. Art D. Devonshire)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 02:11:50 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company 1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 2
Distribution: world
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Semi Steel is when steel scrap is used in the production of grey cast 
iron. Art. San diego


From luis101@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: luis101@aol.com (Luis101)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for metalworking FAQ
Date: 22 Sep 1996 02:46:09 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
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Hello all...

I'm looking for the FAQ, could someone please help me out?

Also, I'm in the market for a 10 to 12 inch lathe and am having 
difficulty deciding between a Southbend and a Logan.  Are they 
both essentially the same as far a quality?  Are they both easy to find 
parts for?  Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks...

Luis


From rrader@corp.atl.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rrader@corp.atl.com (M. Richard Rader)
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Message-ID: <1996Sep21.052456.26273@atl.com>
Sender: news@atl.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: atl.com
Organization: Advanced Technology Laboratries
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:24:56 GMT
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In article <323F02A9.15D3@ix.netcom.com>, Dan Pfanenstiel <dpfan@ix.netcom.com> says:
>
>Anyone out there know of a source for small quantities (12"X12") of 
>copper plate in the 1/8" to 3/16" thick range? I've searched the web and 
>my local yellow pages with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Dan   dpfan@ix.netcom.com

If in the Seattle area, Alaskan Copper works carries many thicknesses,
tubes, bars; you name it. Apparently, from my dealings with them, no
quantity is too small. E-mail me back if you'd like more details?

                                    Rich
                                    rrader@corp.atl.com


From besteni@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: besteni@ix.netcom.com(Barbara A. Besteni)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HAVE FUN!
Date: 18 Sep 1996 14:51:05 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <51p28p$gdd@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ftl-fl1-16.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Sep 18  9:51:05 AM CDT 1996

You can have fun turning your craft, hobby, or skill into a "How-To"
Video.

To find out how, visit The Profit Producer Cafe Web Site at
http://www.profitproducer.com.

Warmest Regards,
Barb
-- 
Barbara A. Besteni, Publisher
VIDEO FILE, Marketing Journal Of The Video Entrepreneur
Visit The Profit Producer Cafe http://www.profitproducer.com
Production and Marketing Solutions For Video Entrepreneurs


From adam@lanl.gov Fri Sep 27 16:09:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adam_w <adam@lanl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:18:22 -0600
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3240752E.A90@lanl.gov>
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.iis.com.br> <513us9$99a@epx.cis.umn.edu> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960910202222.28062B-100000@saul5.u.washington.edu> <515g27$rup@ratty.wolfe.net> <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.bu <51mq75$r87@news-2.csn.net>
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> Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) wrote:
> ........................
>  It really amounts to less than a hill of beans what system is used,
>  as long as people understand it, and use it the same way.

Hmmm.... Shouldn't we be using the metric kilobeans instead of the
imperial hillo'beans?

                            Adam


From beckx024@gold.tc.umn.edu Fri Sep 27 16:09:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckx024@gold.tc.umn.edu (Bob Beck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Homemade EDM
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 19:39:58 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota
Lines: 13
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup-16-a-16.gw.umn.edu

I belive HSM ran a series of articles on a home made EDM machine. It was
based on a Popular Science article. One of the two articles had a bunch of
errors in it.

I would like to build a machine and wonder if anyone has "bulletproof"
instructions on how to proceed. Does anyone have the articles or other
data on their homepage?? 

Thanks to all.

Regards

Bob Beck


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric : "Jerry" building; When all else fails, look it up!
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 03:04:55 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32450F47.3520@mail.idt.net>
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To: Bruce Winterbon <bwinterb@intranet.ca>

After blithely speculating that the term "jerry-building" was an ethnic slur (with my 
tongue firmly -- though apparently not visibly-- in cheek regarding the irony of 
characterizing German construction methods as shoddy when the current popular perception 
is the opposite), I was taken to task by two respondents: one on etymological grounds 
(relating to "jury rigging") and by the writer who had used the term (whose "UK" i.d. I 
overlooked), somewhat incensed at my seeming accusation of insensitivity.

   I confess that my comment regarding "Jerry" related to the liberal early-to-mid 20th 
century use of the term as anti-German slang.  After research, I conclude it is at best 
unclear.

    Webster's encyclopedic dictionary of fifty years ago defines "jerry" as both a slang 
name for those of German origin and as referring to shoddy construction and materials, 
and defines "jerry-built" consistently (i.e. shoddily-built), without, however, an 
etymological note.

     Charles Funk, noted American slang etymologist, traces the term "jerry-built" to 
the "jerrybuilt" cottage (i.e. insubstantially-built residence of inferior materials) of 
mid-19th century.

     Noting both the major influx of German immigrants to the American midwest of that 
period, their impecuniousness, tenacious self-sufficiency and penchant for making 
constructive use of nearly any available materials, I suspect the reference had the 
obvious origin.  Based upon my readings and family history, the Germans might have 
practically invented recycling -- using, refurbishing and re-using tools and materials 
and eschewing the purchase of finished goods almost to the point of self-parody.  
Scholars have commented about the timber shortage in Europe as early as the 16th 
century, so no doubt landless German immigrants acquired the habit of re-using any 
available scrap of material and brought it with them.  (Somewhat contrarily, many also 
brought with them a tradition of craftsmanship in, among other things, wood, so I rather 
suspect few spent many winters in the "jerrybuilt" cottages before their 
circumstances permitted upgrading.)

  Funk notes, however, the term "jerry" in other derogatory contexts as much as 150 
years earlier in both Britain and the colonies.  We may never know the the truth.  I 
prefer to picture the earlier French, English and Scottish immigrants treating recent 
German arrivals with the same scorn every immigrant group received in its turn.

    What does this ahv eto do with metalworking, and who cares?  I dunno.


From tshaff@inforamp.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Shaffer <tshaff@inforamp.net>
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 15:38:57 GMT
Organization: Thomas Shaffer Associates Inc.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8736 rec.crafts.metalworking:35220

Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> C++ Freak wrote:
> >
> > Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
> > as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
> > But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
> > Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
> > I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
> > in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
> >
> > Klaas
> 
> The spray galvanizing stuff is supposed to be pretty effective. I have
> no experience to back that up.
> 
> MSC has the stuff for about $5 a can; I've seen it in specialty catalogs
> for $20 a can!
> 
> --
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com


There are several ways to repair weld damage to zinc coatings; the application of 
proprietary zinc-rich paints, sometimes called "cold galvanizing" is one of them.  
Others include zinc spraying (metallizing) and application of a special low-melting 
zinc solder stick.  The choice of method to use depends on the thickness of the steel, 
thickness of coating, type of weld, etc.

Suggest you contact the International Lead Zinc Research Organization 
(http://www.ilzro.org) or the American Galvanizers Association (http://usalink.net/aga/) 
or the International Zinc Association (http://www.iza.com)

Tom Shaffer


From chevin@faroc.com.au Fri Sep 27 16:09:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chevin@faroc.com.au (Ian R. Howcroft)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Polygonal Tool Post.
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 05:53:04 GMT
Organization: Omen Computer Services, Perth, Western Australia
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82


Many years ago, I saw a tool post which, I am sure, was called a
polygonal tool post, and  which was used - in that particular
situation  - to "Turn" the hexagonal head on some bolts used in a
fairly specialist application. I forget how it worked, but it was set
up on a lathe, and the bolt was chucked just above the thread.  When
the cut was set to the bolt head which was round at that time, the
tool moved backwards and forwards quite rapidly, and formed a hexagon
head on the bolt.  Obviously, the flats did have a small amount of
curviture, but the head was more than good enough for a ring spanner.
As we were the only people who ever positioned or removed the bolts,
there was never a problem with the wrong spanner being used.
I have mentioned this tool post to many people since I saw it in use
(over thirty years ago), and I have never met anyone who has heard of
or seen one of them.  Have any readers of this group come across them,
and if so, do you have any details on how they worked?
							Ian.



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:09:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:18:43 GMT
Lines: 20


< snip )
>
>The universal law on cutting tools is, if it isn't made in the USA, it isn't a 
>cutting tool. Chinese or Polish drills arn't worth having even as a bad joke.
>The Silver and Demming drills I use are made by Viking Drill in St. Paul
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rubbish, plenty of good  cutting tools are made in other countries, 
including my own, Canada.  If you buy cheap tools, you get what you pay for.
Inexpensive doesn't have to mean cheap.  Over the years I have had a 
number of US made tools that were junk, and some good ones too.  The same 
goes for some of the British & Canadian tools I have owned.  I have a 
couple of Canadian made taps that were used for more than 50 years in a 
motorcycle shop, they are still in good shape.  My Canadian made 
Butterfield 1/2 inch reamer has seen 25 years service in my shop, it is 
well used, and still in good shape.   
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rockwell Lathe
Date: 19 Sep 1996 04:59:23 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Rockwell does have a few parts if you are rich.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:09:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.jewelry
Subject: Re: It Can & Does Happen  $$  It Depends on You !!
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:19:07 -0500
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35224 rec.crafts.marketplace:9286 rec.crafts.jewelry:14525

hope@faith.com wrote:
> 
>  IT CAN AND DOES HAPPEN!!
> 
>  Taking 5 minutes to read what follows can change your life:
> 
>  HOW MUCH DO YOU SPEND ON LOTTERIES?  AND HOW POOR ARE THE ODDS?
>  HOW MUCH DOES $5 BUY AT MCDONALD'S?  AND DO YOU REALLY ENJOY IT?
>  HOW MUCH DOES ONE MAGAZINE COST?  MORE THAN THIS DOES MOST LIKELY...
> 
>  I saw an article in an internet newsgroup telling me I could
>  make $50,000 within a month for an investment of only $5.
>  Who'd believe that?  It's a scam, right?  Wrong!
> 
>  *********************************
>  ** Don't go away yet!
>  ** READ ON!!!!!!!
>  *********************************
> 
>  I thought it was a huge joke.  I spoke to my wife, attorney
>  and friends about it, and they all agreed it was some kind
>  of scam.  I can't stand scams, because usually someone gets
>  burned, and I didn't want it to be me.  Of course, I rejected
>  the idea at first.  After a short period of about two weeks,
>  I thought "I have already heard of such things.  But on the
>  Internet?!?".  I decided that even if I had to throw $5 into
>  the fire, it wouldn't hurt my wallet that much, and gave it
>  a try.  After all my wallet could sure use a LOT more than
>  five dollars.
> 
> 
>  If you follow the three steps below, there is no reason why
>  the same shouldn't happen to you!  This is a legitimate
>  investment opportunity.  You invest $5, and you receive a
>  return on your investment.  So does the next investor.  NOT
>  ILLEGAL, NOT A CHAIN LETTER- PERFECTLY LEGITIMATE.
> 
>  If you are not interested, then don't participate, but
>  please print this article and pass it on to someone who may
>  be interested, so they can take advantage.
> 
>  The procedure is simple:
> 
>  1) Write your name and address on 5 sheets of paper.
>     Below that, write the words, "Please add me to your
>     mailing list." Fold $1 note or bank draft or money
>     order in each piece of paper and mail them to the
>     following 5 addresses:
> 
> 
> 1.  Bill Brown
>      148 South Downlen #796
>      Beaumont, Tx.  77707   USA
> 
> 2.  Olivier Arcadipane
>      237 rue Francois Andre
>      7390 Quaregnon    BELGIUM
> 
> 3.  BJ Connolly
>      34 Nottawasaga Crescent,
>      Brampton, Ontario,
>      Canada, L6Z-1B9
> 
> 4.  M. Cumming
>      P.O.BOX 252
>      Two Rivers, Wi ,54241
> 
> 5.   Gary C.
>        P.O. Box 45
>        Hatboro,PA 19040  USA
> 
>  2) Now remove the top name from the list, and move the other
>     four names up.  In other words, #5 becomes #4 and so on.
>     Put your name as the fifth one on the list.   Use a simple
>     text editor such as Notepad, in your  "accessories" window
>     (If you have MS-Windows), or DOS editor.  In fact, any
>     editor will do.
> 
>  3) Post the article to at least 200 newsgroups.  There are
>     17,000, so it shouldn't be hard to find that many.  Try
>     posting to as many newsgroups as you can,  and the bigger the
>     newsgroup is, the more people are sure to see your message!
> 
>  You are now in the mail order investment business, and
>  should start seeing returns within a week or two.  Of course,
>  the more newsgroups you post to, the greater your return is.
>  If you wish to remain anonymous, you may use a pseudonym,
>  call yourself "The Manager", "The Boss", whatever but make
>  sure your address is correct.
> 
>  Now, here is why the system works:
> 
>  -Of every 200 posts I made, I received 5 responses.  Yes,
>  only 5.  You make $5 for every 200 posts with your name at #5.
> 
>  -Each person who sent you $1 now also makes 200 additional
>  postings with your name at #4.  ie. 1000 postings.  On average
>  therefore, 50 people will send you $1 with your name at #4.
>  $50.
> 
>  -Your 50 new agents make 200 postings each with your name at
>  #3 or 10,000 postings.  Average return 500 people = $500.
>  They make 200 postings each with your name at #2=100,000
>  postings=5000 return at $1 each=$5000.
> 
>  -Finally, 5,000 people make 200 postings with your name at
>  #1 and you get a return of $50,000 before your name drops
>  off the list.  AND THAT'S IF EVERYONE DOWN THE LINE MAKES 200
>  POSTINGS!  Total income in one cycle=$55,000.
> 
>  From time to time, when you see your name no longer on the
>  list, take the latest posting that appears in the newsgroups,
>  and send out another $5, and put your name at #5, and start
>  posting again.  Remember, 200 postings is only a guideline.
>  The more you post, the greater the return.
> 
>  Let's review why you should do this.  THE ONLY COST IS $5, AND
>  5 STAMPS, AND 5 ENVELOPES.  Anyone can afford $5 for such an
>  effortless investment with such SPECTACULAR RETURNS.
> 
>  Some people have said to me, "What happens if the scheme is
>  played out and no one sends me any money?"  Big Deal, so you
>  lose $5-but what are the chances of that happening??  Do you
>  think that NOBODY cares about a LEGAL chance of making such
>  BIG money as $50,000.00????  And all for a microscopic
>  investment of five separate dollars?  Just think of all of
>  the new Internet users that join the net every day!!!
> 
>  There are millions of internet users, and millions of new
>  net surfers every month!  This is the great plus of the
>  Internet, people all over the world can hear you and will
>  listen carefully if you talk reasonably.  Everyone will take
>  that chance!  I agree, if it wasn't the Internet, and was a
>  small circle of people, the chance wouldn't have been so
>  small.  The amount of money had to be 200 times bigger, and
>  the chances were zero.  It wouldn't succeed.
> 
>  But here, on the Internet, it is a giant village, where
>  thousands of new members join every day!  You CAN'T lose!!!
> 
>  Remember- read the instructions carefully, and play fairly.
>  That's the only way this will work.  Get a printout so you
>  can refer back to this article easily.
> 
>  Try to keep a list of everyone that sends you money and
>  always keep an eye on the postings to make sure everyone is
>  playing fairly.  You know where your name should be.
> 
>  REMEMBER-HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY.  YOU DO NOT NEED TO
>  CHEAT THIS IDEA TO MAKE MONEY!!  BESIDES, NOT PLAYING THE
>  GAME FAIRLY IS ILLEGAL.  SO LET'S BE REASONABLE AND PLAY
>  FAIRLY, SO WE CAN ALL ENJOY THE INTERNET GOLD MINE.
> 
>  GOOD LUCK FOR YOU ALL, and remember, play fair and you'll
>  win, I don't want to mention what might happen to those who
>  won't.   AND AGAIN, SEE YOU NEXT TIME WITH SOMETHING YOU'VE
>  WANTED FOR A LONG TIME!!!
> GET LOST DICKHEAD!!!!


From jmcmun@digital-cafe.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jmcmun@digital-cafe.com (Jay McMunn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Build a Gatling gun?
Organization: Jamun Industries
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Date: 19 Sep 96 15:20:06 GMT
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A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
machine shop and does nice work.

thanx,

Jay, North Idaho


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Message-ID: <1996Sep19.092545.958@flying-disk.com>
Date: 19 Sep 96 09:25:45 PDT
References: <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de>  <jesw-1609961302280001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 17

In article <jesw-1609961302280001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, 
jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins) writes:

>> If I need a piece of hose, I simply hold my arms out and check
>> the length.   At the hardware store, I hold my arms out again,
>> and the clerk pulls out the required length.

> If it's exactly a yard from your nose to your fingertips, you
> can be the King.

I thought that to be the King, you had to be able to play the
guitar and sing.   :-)

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tighten the lathe gibs?
Message-ID: <1996Sep19.091824.957@flying-disk.com>
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Date: 19 Sep 96 09:18:24 PDT
References: <Dxr76x.580@uicc.com> <09960816065209.OUI99.SLogan@gnn.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 19

In article <09960816065209.OUI99.SLogan@gnn.com>, 
SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:

> You say "those two screws"; on the cross slide, there should be 4
> screws, and on the compound, 3 screws.  Also, do you have cone point
> screws? If you are using standard cup point, they will tend to hit the
> gib at the top, and cock the gib. Cone points will hit in the middle. 

Thanks, Scott!   This is one of those gems of knowledge that
I would never have thought of.   When I made my T-slotted
cross slide (Metal Lathe Accessories), I never gave this a
second thought.   I am going out to the garage right now to
check it, as well as printing a copy of your note to stick
in my Logan 200 file folder.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: 20 Sep 1996 01:51:18 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
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Kurt Rieder (krieder@buffnet.net) wrote:
> All this posting about metric vs. non-metric (whatever you may want
> to call the non-metric) has caused me to wonder about the many systems
> used for drills (not to mention wire).  Why do we indeed have both
> A-Z letter and 1-60 + 61-80 number drills along with inch fraction
> and metric ?

  It's fascinating to speculate about some of these traditional measures,
practices, nomenclatures, etc. I think it makes sense that in the smaller
sizes, the increments between each size are small and as the holes get
bigger, the differences between adjacent sizes can be bigger. So the
smallest fractional increment, 1/64 or .015625, is five times the 3 or 4
thousandths difference between the smaller numbered drills. By contrast,
while it is possible to get drills by 64ths from 1/2" to 1", you can't
get nearly as many different types and I've never seen sets of them in a
catalog.

  Now this part is purely speculation. I can think of two reasons for
the nomeclature: One, it's a easier to remember a one or two character
designation for a drill size than a three digit size in thousandths.
And two, I'm convinced there's an element of intentional jargonization.
(Is that a word?) We machinists, mechanical engineers, etc. are clearly
superior to the non machinists, etc. because we know that a #1 drill
is larger than a #10 drill, but an A drill is smaller than an M drill.

> Are any considered obsolete yet ?

  The letter, number and fractional sizes are all considered equally
obsolete by those who prefer metric. Otherwise no.

> Why did they limit 
> the letter drills to just 26 (instead of AA, AB, AC, etc.) ?

  As I noted above, I think it has to do with the increments between
adjacent sizes. By the time you get up to the Z drill, .413", the
fractional sizes are quite adequate to express the desired increments.

> I think
> that there are actually duplications, with the same size showing up
> in more than one system... don't make much sense to me ?

  Not as many duplications as you might think. There are obviously
quite a number that are close, but only one duplicate that I remember,
E = .250.

>  What's the history behind all this ?  

  Sorry, no history for sale here. But I'll speculate all day long.

Bruce


From edk4@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: 19 Sep 1996 15:21:32 -0400
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I've found drill blanks to be invaluable for locating a workpiece,
with a hole already drilled in it, in the drill press or milling machine,
that needs additional work performed on it, such as tapping, enlarging,
reaming, countersinking or counterboring. Using the appropriate 
drill doesn't always work, particularly if the hole is fairly shallow.

Drill blanks can also be ground to make great transfer punches
and 'D' drills. They can be used as pins, punches and drifts. I chuck
them up to use as alignment guides when positioning a workpiece 
in the drill press or milling machine chuck. (I 'sight' along the side)

I agree with Ron Ginger, that they're perfect hole guages. They're 
also useful as bars to tighten the 'odd' clamp. I wouldn't be without 
them and have to envy Ron for having two discreet sets, he's
one step ahead of me, as usual. (I'm beginning to hate that, Ron)

------------------
Ed Kingsley






From r.lee@windshadow.com Fri Sep 27 16:09:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randolph Lee" <r.lee@windshadow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Headstock Bearings
Date: 19 Sep 96 11:49:41 -0500
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>
>Tom Herbert <therbert@accesscomm.net> wrote in article
><51mhm3$7v6@bluto.accesscomm.net>...
>> I have an Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe of about 1960's vintage.  After
>> tightening every nut, bolt and belt on the machine, I was still
>> getting a strange set of toolmarks on each turned piece.  They are
>> diagonal hills and valleys that cross the regular toolmarks at about
>> 30 degrees.
>> 
John Nicol <nicol@ix.netcom.com> typed
>I have the same lathe (although 1950's vintage) and the same problem. 
>My lathe was in like new almost unused condition when I bought it.  I have
>tried adjusting everything to perfection but still get marks about 1 cm
>apart when turning.  It doesn't seem to matter what feed I use the marks
>still apear around 1 cm apart. 

I had this on my Atlas until i replaced the leadscrew/nuts... it was pure
leadscrew wear on my machine...  that took care of 90% of it.... the rest
was fixed by resetting the spindel preload... but I know of other cases
where it was a problem with the leadscrew safety cluch... sort of a slip
stick problem caused by alignment and wear problems...






From kenter@flashman.harvard.edu Fri Sep 27 16:09:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kenter@flashman.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter)
Subject: small (6") rotary tables.
Message-ID: <Dy1EJF.Is8@cfanews.harvard.edu>
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	Looking for recs, information, cost and  sources for
small 6" rotary tables (Horizontal and vertical)

	I have heard Grizzly is junk

	Is JET much better? anyone have one?


			Thanks,
	

				-almus


From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!news.ums.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!van-bc!vanbc!mfraser
From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 20 Sep 1996 15:33:47 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 14
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Anyone who has used a crowbar to make holes in the ground for posts 
that will be pounded down with a big ----ing hammer so that one can
hang barbed wire to keep cows under some geographic constraints, 
will know that lifting the crowbar out of the ground to make another
jab is the most tiring part of the whole job.  I WANT one, just in 
case I ever, ever have to do that again....

Roger Mitchell (rogerm@fc.hp.com) wrote:
: Three qualities of titanium that may make it desirable to make a crowbar from
: would be it's light weight, strength and the ability to use it in explosive
: environments where a spark caused by striking a steel one could cause a
: disaster.
: 				Roger Mitchell



From dalw@direct.ca Fri Sep 27 16:10:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 20 Sep 1996 16:52:46 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct Inc.
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In article <51pqqr$nf@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) says:
>
>I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
>what is the composition of this metal?
>
>Jim Waggener
>creativ@infi.net
>
Dal Wagner replies:

Jim
I can assure you it has nothing to do with the trucking industry.

When they roll steel to make structural members they start with ingots
that have "blow holes" or voids distributed through out the material.
When they roll the material, these voids are pressed together or welded.
Steel "deoxidized" in this manner is called "semikilled".
There's nothing special about this material and nothing wrong with it.
Hope you didn't pay a premium price for that "special semi steel".

Regards

Dal Wagner


From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:10:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:50:46 GMT
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burt lang <burt@rocler.qc.ca> wrote:

>Just to confuse matters :  1 In (US) is not equal to 1 in (brit).

 No, they are equal. Both inches were made equal when they defined the
inch to be 25.4 mm. The only unit  that is the same in the british and
american system?

Honoré.




From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
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Somewhere I read about this. It seems like there used to be two
companies, Silver for one and Deming for the other that made similar
drill bit products. They merged to Silver and Deming, and the bits
inherited the name. I could have dreamed this, too.

Dan Bollinger wrote:
> 
> Roy;
> 
> >wrote:
> >
> > >> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> > >> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
> > >>
> 
> Besides, the 1/2 " shank, they are also very short for their diamters,
> that is, not jobbers length.
> 
> I not sure, but I've always thought they were named after the
> organizational and effiecientcy expert Deming.  Anyone know?
> 
> Dan Bollinger
> Industrial Designer

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From neidorff@uicc.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Axiom on lathe buying
Message-ID: <Dy521n.JAJ@uicc.com>
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I have a theory on lathe buying.  Comments welcome.

My theory is that any used lathe that is sold stripped or with
very little tooling is likely to be worn and/or damaged.  Any
lathe that is sold fully tooled is likely to be quite servicable,
well cared for, and a better value.

This is based on seeing many tools for sale and seeing many shops.
The trashed lathes seem to be pushed to the side, stripped, and
used for mundane tasks like polishing.  The great tools are fully
equipped, well maintained, and kept as a servicable package.

Finally, at the price of tool posts, lathe chucks, drill chucks,
live centers, collet adapters, collets, etc., you will surely get
a great deal on accessories by buying a fully outfitted lathe
compared to buying those parts aftermarket.  You will probably also
get better fitting accessories, too, if they are original brand and
in good shape.

Do you think I'm out to lunch on this one?  :-)
--
Bob Neidorff <neidorff@uicc.com>


From xeno357@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35237 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xeno357@ix.netcom.com(Max ben-Aaron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Low Cost Lathes (was Re: emco maier ... (was..)
Date: 22 Sep 1996 15:42:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <macnosy-1509961225410001@204.119.88.14> <323EDDA9.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca> <51rjg8$dq4@news1.svc> <51tej4$sn6@sanjuan.islandnet.com> <felice.232.3242C32F@pioneer.net> <5214s0$gqe@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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High their:

Are'nt youall re-inventing the wheel?  Wasn't that the (low cost lathe
using available extrusions &c) idea behind the Taig lathe?

Mb-A

==============================================================

In <5214s0$gqe@sanjuan.islandnet.com> johnd@islandnet.com (John
Dammeyer) writes: 
>
>felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) wrote:
>
>
>>I'll take this as an opportunity to reccomend a book I just
>>bought at a used book store : Precision Machine Design
>>by Alexander Slocum, Prentice Hall(?) 1992.
>
>Good Idea.
>
>>I cast my vote for replaceable v ways made out of ground square
stock,
>>fitted into an aluminum (or cast iron) bed with female vees cut into
it.
>>Since the motor is usually a significant part of the cost of a lathe,
and most 
>>of us have surplus motors, I would say it should be able to use any
sort
>>of single speed (1750 rpm) motor.
>
>Wouldn't replaceable V ways increase the cost?
>
>My idea here is to use CAM expertise to produce a high quality lathe
>and not to make another homebuilt version of the Gingery lathe.  Not
>to say that the Gingery lathe cannot be high quality,  just high
>labour.
>
>This implies setting a casting into a CNC Mill and having it bring all
>surfaces to the correct dimension and drilling all holes for bolts.
>Perhaps such a machine can even tap all the required holes.  Perhaps
>this will need a second machine.
>
>John
>
>
>
>
>Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
>with arrows in their backs.
>Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
>6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
>Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6
>



From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35238 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade EDM
Date: 22 Sep 1996 13:28:45 -0400
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In article <beckx024-2109961939580001@dialup-16-a-16.gw.umn.edu>,
beckx024@gold.tc.umn.edu (Bob Beck) writes:

>I belive HSM ran a series of articles on a home made EDM machine. It was
>based on a Popular Science article. One of the two articles had a bunch
of
>errors in it.
>
>

I am not sure it was based on anything other than the original designer's
knowledge and experience, one Robert P Langlois. The project ran for 6
issues (12 months) beginning in May/June 1995.

A call to HSM 1-800-447-367 will get you back issues at $5.00 per copy if
they are available. If issues are not available they will give you the
number of a Microfilm company that has all issues available on film.

I have not yet built it but I followed it closely. I am not sure there
were so many 'errors' as improvements as the project developed over the 12
month period. It would be important to read all 6 issues *before* starting
as things changed for the better along the way.

Peter


From mmalone805@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35239 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mmalone805@aol.com (MMalone805)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foundries???
Date: 22 Sep 1996 13:03:43 -0400
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 If you want some used chemically bonded silica sand, email me with your
requirements. I am plant manager at Winnebago Foundry in South Beloit, IL.
We are about a hour and a half out of Chicago on I-90.

                                               Mike Malone


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:10:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35240 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:24:20 GMT
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The feedscrew dials are calibrated in THOUSANDTHS!  
15/16" = .9375"    5/8" = .625"



In a previous article, charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom) says:

>On this USA/metric topic, has someone already asked what the
>convenience is of a lathe, which is in USA units (1 rev == 0.1 inch),
>but than the handle scales are subdivided in hundreds.  What if I need
>to turn 15/16", or even 5/8"?  I believe most imperial lathes
>are like that, admittedly I know only 2 :-)
>
>
>-- 
>Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV
>
>charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
>European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:10:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35241 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric vs inches
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:38:44 GMT
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A fortnight is two weeks.  The term is still in use in the UK, and some 
commonwealth countries, but not Canada.

How about the French & Swiss " Ligne ", used into the 1930s in the watch 
industry.  It converts easily to inches.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:10:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35242 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
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References: <3243DC1B.688F@mail.idt.net> <51vodn$f0g@hil-news-svc-3.compuserve.com> <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:41:47 GMT
Lines: 39


Has anyone tried sorting 11mm & 12mm nuts?



In a previous article, aep19@mail.idt.net ("Tony P.") says:

>idt.net!news
>From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
>Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 05:14:19 -0700
>Organization: Very, very poor.
>Lines: 10
>Message-ID: <3243DC1B.688F@mail.idt.net>
>References: <51vodn$f0g@hil-news-svc-3.compuserve.com> <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>
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>To: Chris Pollard <cpollard@csn.net>
>
>Not really surprised.   Somebody mentioned that the "only thing not 
>metric" on many U.S. cars is the sparkplugs.  They would be surprised to 
>remember that sparkplugs were the _first_ thing on U.S. cars to use 
>metric measures.  The old 15 mm vs 18 mm plugs have been around for forty 
>years.
>
>   Funny thing is that, while the diameter of the hole is metric, the 
>thread on the plug is not.  Actually, the great difference in metric 
>standard threads is more of an impediment to the switch than the fiddling 
>around and squawking we do.
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:10:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35243 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
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In a previous article, CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Mr. Art D. Devonshire) says:

>Semi Steel is when steel scrap is used in the production of grey cast 
>iron. Art. San diego
>
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
In truth, I believe the above describes Malleable Iron, not semi steel.

Semi steel describes several types of Nodular Cast Iron, also known as 
Spheriodal Graphite Iron.  The graphite is in tiny balls, rather than flakes.
The addition of small ammounts of magnesium, or cerium bearing alloys, 
and special processing, create its charactaristics.  It machines like 
cast iron, but its toughness is midway between steel & cast iron.  It is 
often used for lathe chucks, and can be welded or brazed.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35244 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!rcogate.rco.qc.ca!n3ott.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!van.istar!west.istar!n1van.istar!van-bc!unixg.ubc.ca!info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: 22 Sep 1996 12:20:53 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
writes:

>You will very pleased to learn then that the standard metric pipe thread
>is BSP (British Standard Pipe) and it actually isn't a round number of
>inches or  mm.
>
You might also check out ACME threads for a Metric counterpart. <g>


From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Fri Sep 27 16:10:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35245 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!oleane!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!drn
From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: University Microfilms?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 05:55:56 -0700
Organization: Zippo
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References: &lt;521c9d$e46@ultra.sonic.net&gt;
NNTP-Posting-Host: pub3.lncc.br

Hi!
>I would like to know if anyone here has any experience in ordering
>back issues of HSP or PIM, from University Microfilms.
Things like:
Which reader should one use?
Prices?
Anything else you can think about them.
Thanks for your help.


From kdka@netins.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35246 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kdka@netins.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge Welding, what's the secret?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 20:27:19 GMT
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Ed Kreyling <kreyling@teclink.net> wrote:

>I have just started in hobby blacksmithing.  I completed construction of
>my first forge (made from a wheelbarrow, handcrank fan, fire bricks and
>clay).  I have made a few simple tools (punches, tongs, hardys and
>lantern stands).  I tried my first attempt at welding, which failed
>miserably.  I have not been able to find a book or article that explains
>the technique well enough for me to understand.   I bent a piece of 1/2
>inch sq stock back over itself about 3 inches.  Then I heated both
>layers until it was sparkling, placed it on the anvil and attempted to
>hammer them into one layer.  What I ended up with were 2 very thin
>layers.  What is missing?  Thanks for the help.

>Ed K.

I used to teach metalworking and I remember showing a filmstrip that
showed using borax as a flux before hammering the two pieces together.
I won't guarantee this but try it for what its worth.



From manaret@flash.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35247 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 03:14:21 -0500
Organization: Ikonoclast Memetics
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Kirk Hays wrote:
> 
> In article <51me0e$c66@fcnews.fc.hp.com>,
> Roger Mitchell <rogerm@fc.hp.com> wrote:
> |Three qualities of titanium that may make it desirable to make a crowbar from
> |would be it's light weight, strength and the ability to use it in explosive
> |environments where a spark caused by striking a steel one could cause a
> |disaster.
> 
> Where do we find these amazing surplus titanium crowbars?
> 

   I've already had several Email requests for this. Call "The
Edge Company" at 800-732-9976, and ask for a catalog. The 
catalog's pretty interesting itself, though with a lot of 
odd junk in it. I've seen them a couple of other places, 
but I've discarded the catalogs. Also, I have no idea how 
"amazing" the crowbar is; for all I know, it's a factory 
reject. One thing that an earlier poster said makes sense; 
I seem to dimly remember, now, that Russia is a major source of 
titanium, so perhaps it's not as exotic as it seems to me.

-- 
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
               Pat Kelley (manaret@flash.net)
    "I think, therefore you are. Don't make me regret it."
              http://www.flash.net/~manaret/
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


From chevin@faroc.com.au Fri Sep 27 16:10:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35248 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chevin@faroc.com.au (Ian R. Howcroft)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling thick cast iron help, please?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 11:57:16 GMT
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congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) ) wrote:

>I need to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole through a hunk of cast iron about
>six inches thick, which was cast using scrap in a small cupola and
>doubtless has a hard skin and hard spots throughout.  Should I attempt
>it with a cobalt steel drill, or a solid carbide?  Any lubricant as I
>get deeper, or simply do it in small steps, clear the chips,  and let
>everything cool down?  Any practical advice will be much appreciated. 
>Next time I'll somehow rig a core for such a hole!

>                                    --Alan Heldman


During my apprentiship ( too many years ago to mention) I worked a
radial drill, and literally drilled tons of cast iron.  However, it
was all good quality stuff, so there may be problems with the stuff
you have which I have not encountered.  I can't see that you should
have too many problems though.
Firstly, you shouldn't need any lubricant, there is normally
sufficient free carbon in cast iron to give the drill or cutter all of
the lubrication it needs.  Sand inclusions can give you problems, and
this does happen even in good quality cast iron, as do the odd chilled
spots, but they are fairly rare in my experience.  Personally, I would
start off with just a normal high speed steel drill bit, but you know
the piece of metal you have better than I do, so if you have any
doubts, I would suggest you grind a masonry drill (carbide tipped)
closer to the  profile of a metal working drill and try that.  They
can be the answer to a whole lot of drilling problems, and they are
pretty cheap too.  You just need to have the right wheel on your
grinder to deal with them.  If you use the hss drill bit, keep the
revs fairly low, but if you use the masonry drill, you should be able
to get through with quite high revs.
			Good luck.
					Ian.




From hjkratt@cybertron.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35249 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Henry Kratt <hjkratt@cybertron.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Half-Reamer, Info Needed!
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 19:31:41 -0700
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Charles Lamont wrote:
> 
> P.Feist writes
> >Hi;
> >
> >   I'm looking for information on how to make a "Half-Reamer". A
> >Half-Reamer is a reamer (naturally..) that is made with only one "Flute".
> >It is simply a cylinder of the appropriate taper or shape with half of its
> >diameter removed to provide a cutting edge.
> >   I had a chance to examine a half reamer several years ago, but didn't
> >have any background on cutting tool geometry, relief angles, etc. Now that
> >I do, I don't know how the thing was relieved to cut

The cutting is done on the front end of the reamer.  No cutting is done 
on the side as in a typical reamer or end mill.  

I use drill blanks/reamer blanks of HSS to make these, if they are the 
exact diameter needed, and grind away a fourth to half inch of the bit 
keeping the grinding above centerline.  For small reamers, say up to 1/4" 
the ground away part is .003 to .005 above center and up to .010 for a 
1/2" bit.  Opinion seems to vary on the ammount to be left above the 
centerline.  

Drill a relief hole .015 to .020 undersized. Then bore a hole the exact 
size needed for a short distance to lead the D-bit into the work.  then 
withdraw the bit at frequent intervals to get rid of the shavings.  

henry


From ehaddadf@iis.com.br Fri Sep 27 16:10:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35250 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ehaddadf@iis.com.br
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: temperatures - how to?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 06:37:54 -0700
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Hi!
I've been reading, both in books and here, about heat treating, hardening,
annealing metals.
I have a Neycraft furnace with just the temperature indicator - no manual
controls.
My question: how do I go about doing something like this:
Heat to 900def F, hold for 10 minutes, remove and quench.
How do I know that the part has reached 900deg F? I only have an indication
for the furnace's temperature - not the actual part.
How long should I hold the furnace's temperature for the part to get an even
temperature?
As I don't know if things are working, I can't even do some  testing.
Can you help me?  Many Thanks eduardo haddad filho ehaddadf@iis.com.br


From mmalone805@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35251 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mmalone805@aol.com (MMalone805)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 12:32:39 -0400
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  Semi Steel is an old term for cast iron that contains a substantial
portion of steel scrap in the charge. 


From aarenaud@onlink.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35252 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Anthony Renaud" <aarenaud@onlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WANTED LATHE
Date: 22 Sep 1996 19:50:47 GMT
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Would like to purchace 13+"metal turning lathe with gearhead and quick
change.
I am located in ontario .Thank you ..........................James
bthomson@onlink.net
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Would like to purchace 13+&quot;metal =
turning lathe with gearhead and quick change.<br>I am located in ontario =
.Thank you ..........................James<br>bthomson@onlink.net</p>
</font></body></html>
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From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35253 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Teflon
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 96 18:45:42 GMT
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In article <3245BD83.6219@worldnet.att.net>,
   Larry <larryphillips@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Recently, someone posted a message in the Amateur Telescope Making
>group about a teflon material used to recondition worn surfaces
>on machine tools. The material was described as:
>
>- 1/32" inch thick
>
>- etched on one side so that it could be bonded to the worn way
>
>- made of a teflon composite to avoid the cold-flow problems pure
>  teflon has
>
>- scrapable, like cast iron
>
>Has anyone heard of this method of repair? It seems like it could be
>much less work the the traditional method of scraping the metal. In
>particular, I hope it could help get my South Bend 9B lathe back to
>not cutting a taper.
>
>Larry Phillips
>Richmond, VA
Sounds like your referring to a teflon glass composite used in vast quantity 
by the microwave industry. It is available in both woven and non-woven forms 
and is available in a wide range of thicknesses. Usually it is copper clad on 
both sides (like a circuit board), however you could easily etch or peel one 
side off. The material is made by many manufacturers such as 3m, Rogers, and 
Taconic plastics. The first thing you will find, though is that it is VERY 
expensive. Your best bet would be to find a local circuit board shop and see 
if they have any remnants. 1/32 is a real popular size for microstrip work.
I have no idea how this would work to repair a worn way. I'd be very 
interested to find out how it works.
 


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35254 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 13:24:33 -0400
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In article <32446150.5241@erols.com>, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com>
writes:

>> Don't let anyone raise the "machine gun" ruse, a gatling gun is not
>> one.  However, without a FFL (Federal Firearms License) and one of the
>> proper class for *manufacturing* it is illegal to build a firearm of
>> any kind other than black powder. 
>
>Sorry Dion, but you are wrong.  You may build any non NFA fire arm you
>want, provided you may legally own a firearm.  The only
>tricky part is that legally, you may not sell or give the firearm to
>anyone, ever.
>
>

Absolutely correct, Chuck. You do *not* need an FFL. You may build a
firearm providing it conforms to the Class I regulations in effect. e.g
Not a banned 'assault' style, not full auto etc etc, AND providing you can
legally own a firearm. 
This means you could pass the requirements to purchase a gun from any FFL
holder. It is perfectly legal to build a semi-auto 'anything' providing it
conforms to the above specs and it does not have a magazine capacity of
more than 10 rounds. The Gattling falls loosely into the semi-auto
category. Full-auto means hold the trigger down and the gun fires until it
is released.

It does not need a serial number and it does not need to be 'registered'
or on-hold for the Brady waiting period. You build it, you use it. As to
someone's comment about not shooting the Gattling gun, poooh! Providing
you have built the breech and barrel as designed or better yet purchased a
barrel blank for the construction, Go have fun and shoot the sucker, at
your local range, of course.

It is unclear as to what should happen to the gun on your death though. It
can come under the family heirloom issue as long as it is not used, sold
or given away after your death.

If in doubt call the BATF and ask to talk to a firearms inspector. I have
found them to be very helpfull and informative. If you are trying to get
an FFL then they can be anything but helpfull and informative. <grin>

You could also talk to the Department Of Justice and the DA's office as
sometimes local laws will over-ride Federal. Generally though, as long as
you don't have a pound of Dope in your garage *and* home-made guns, there
is little risk of breaking any laws.

Peter


From miked@syscon-intl.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35255 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: miked@syscon-intl.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seek used Sherline lathes and assessories
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:15:59 GMT
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writt@aol.com (WRitt) wrote:
>I doubt that you will find any used Sherline tools for sale. I once tried
>with no luck. There are several dealers on this group that offer 20%
>discounts to 'netters. that is most likely your best bet.

>Bill Rittner
Who? Morton lowered theirs to 15%.
**************************************************************
*      Mike DeMetz                Syscon International       *
*      miked@syscon-intl.com      South Bend, IN             *
**************************************************************



From rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35256 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Todd Muscat <rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Best Language-based CAM  (APT) system
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:04:28 -0700
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Hi Allen,
Thanks for responding.
I guess what i'm looking for is a sort'a NCL/Varimetrix (great mix) on 
the PC sort of solution - strong modeling WITH language based 
programming!
Cheers
Todd

PS:  I worked at VNA/ NCCS at the time of the integration - exciting 
stuff!  Still, an explosion would literally ensue in the marketplace 
should a PC based solution exist!



Allen Evenson wrote:
> 
> Todd Muscat <rtmuscat@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
> <323FC955.1D06@ix.netcom.com>...
> > Hi,
> > I was wondering what the group felt are the best CAM products out there
> on
> > the PC platform?  MasterCAM, CAMAX, etc.?  What I really need is a system
> 
> > that can *ALSO* be language based - which, i guess is to say 'APT-based'.
> 
> > I realize that for some reason "APT" is now a dirty word in this industry
> 
> > (i guess largely due to all these bubble-gum point-&-click CAM systems
> > nowadays:-).  Most vendors choose to call what is 98.7% APT, something
> else
> > - like "NCL".
> > Cheers
> > Todd
> >
> >
> 
> I Have used 4 cam systems in the last 5 years, here's my humble opionion of
> each:
> 
> 1)  "JCS"  3 + limited 5-Axis  PC-based SourceFile+Post = Machine File
> program
>         plusses: macros, simple geo creation, fast 2d
>             minuses: no real time graphics, limited surfaces, documentation
> Have used this off and on since 1988, local based product. Cheap!
> 
> 2) smart CAM (last dos version) 5?  3 axis PC-based Point and click
> (no-source file)
>            plusses:  Layer/Tool management,toolbox approach, good 3d
>            minuses: viewing features,  database operations
> Used from '93 early '94
> 
> 3) Surtcam V6.0 : 2-5 Axis PC-based Point and click (no-source file)
>           plusses: Dynamic viewing toolbar, 2-3 axis cutting routines are
> quick.
>           minuses: weak Post-processors (esp. 5-axis), non associative
> tool-geometry.
> 
> 4) NCL V8.3:  2-5 Axis Unix-base APT+Graphics model (and I mean GOOD
> graphics)
>          plusses: strong Post processors, good graphics, associativity
>          minuses: geometry trimming, model anylization features.
> 
> For What It's worth,  I'm a 5-axis programmer currently using a 5 month old
> Silicon Graphics Indy R5000 with NCL V8.3 and Verimatrix (3d solid modeling
> package). We switched from
> Surfcam because of the Associativity issue.  NCL is like APT with Surfcam's
> graphics (close)
> . Where I work we couldn't live with having to change a 5-axis program when
> a tool diameter changed .008". I like the APT programming model (less
> section I and II). I come from a BASIC and C++ programming background.. The
> ability to write, loops, macros, and completely control the position of the
> tool regardless of its diameter and form (if i do it right ..lot's of
> variables)
> gives the "part program" I write a lot of flexibility.  Instead of trying
> to remeber what sequence of clicks I made and how exactly I set all the
> options in the dialog boxes, I open a source file in NCL and step thru
> it/and or edit it (watching dynamic tool motion) and fix or improve the
> process.
> 
>                                                         Allen E.
>                                                         MIW Aerospace
>                                                         Kent, WA
> 
> "
> 
> 
> Ran from '92 to early '94.



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35257 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 19 Sep 1996 14:00:14 GMT
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Actually, Jacobs used to make a chuck that screwed directly onto the spindle nose of 
the lathe.  I have one for my Logan and it is sometimes very useful.  Looks just like 
a very large-bodied Jacobs chuck with an internal register and thread for the spindle.

Works very well as a collet substitute for hex stock.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From kreyling@teclink.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35258 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ed Kreyling <kreyling@teclink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Forge Welding, what's the secret?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 10:48:05 -0500
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I have just started in hobby blacksmithing.  I completed construction of
my first forge (made from a wheelbarrow, handcrank fan, fire bricks and
clay).  I have made a few simple tools (punches, tongs, hardys and
lantern stands).  I tried my first attempt at welding, which failed
miserably.  I have not been able to find a book or article that explains
the technique well enough for me to understand.   I bent a piece of 1/2
inch sq stock back over itself about 3 inches.  Then I heated both
layers until it was sparkling, placed it on the anvil and attempted to
hammer them into one layer.  What I ended up with were 2 very thin
layers.  What is missing?  Thanks for the help.

Ed K.


From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:10:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35259 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 20:03:41 -0700
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On 22 Sep 1996, Christopher Lau wrote:

>
> The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..  Better than
> any enamel I've found, but takes more than a week at fairly well controlled
> temperatures and humidity to dry and cure.  Unfortunately they're hard to
> find in most areas, but their features include: self priming on most surfaces,
> resistant to oils and grease and most other chemicals, as well as being tough
> as nails (these paints are normally used for painting guns and gun parts that
> are unbluable by normal means, so they'd better well be tough and chemical
> resistant).  I've only managed to find three sources- Brownell's Alumahyde II
> Canadian Tire Roll Bar paint, and some varieties of boat paints.  The first
> two are only available in black, the boat paint in white (but you should be
> able to add pigment to it).
>
Many years ago, we used a epoxy paint made be Sherwin Williams that came
in a spray can to paint staples that were used in a air staple gun.  It
was about the only paint that wouldn't come off the staples.

					CHeers,



From p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu Fri Sep 27 16:10:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35260 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet
From: p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:32:18 GMT
Organization: Staff - College of Agriculture
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <524g9i$bef@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu> <51d6it$co2@news-e2c.gnn.com> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960916085854.8930D-100000@clarion.korrnet.org> <korenma1-2009960739430001@ppp7.ppp.tju.edu> <3242C80E.6D0F@onramp.net> <524ajn$oio@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca>
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cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca (Christopher Lau) wrote:

>George Edwards (gedwards@onramp.net) wrote:
The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..
Better than
>any enamel I've found, but takes more than a week at fairly well controlled
>temperatures and humidity to dry and cure.  Unfortunately they're hard to
>find in most areas, but their features include: self priming on most surfaces,
>resistant to oils and grease and most other chemicals, as well as being tough
>as nails (these paints are normally used for painting guns and gun parts that
>are unbluable by normal means, so they'd better well be tough and chemical
>resistant).  I've only managed to find three sources- Brownell's Alumahyde II
>Canadian Tire Roll Bar paint, and some varieties of boat paints.  The first
>two are only available in black, the boat paint in white (but you should be
>able to add pigment to it).

Try Rust-Oleum's water based epoxies, available from Grainger or most
any industrial supply. Good stuff to work with, and not nearly as
toxic as most fume-wise. I've used quite a bit of it in meat packing
house work.

Phil Crome



From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35261 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsgate.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Axiom on lathe buying
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 20:58:16 +0000
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <3245A868.2C67@ix.netcom.com>
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Bob Neidorff wrote:
> 
> I have a theory on lathe buying.  Comments welcome.
> 
> My theory is that any used lathe that is sold stripped or with
> very little tooling is likely to be worn and/or damaged.  Any
> lathe that is sold fully tooled is likely to be quite servicable,
> well cared for, and a better value.
> 
> This is based on seeing many tools for sale and seeing many shops.
> The trashed lathes seem to be pushed to the side, stripped, and
> used for mundane tasks like polishing.  The great tools are fully
> equipped, well maintained, and kept as a servicable package.
> 
> Finally, at the price of tool posts, lathe chucks, drill chucks,
> live centers, collet adapters, collets, etc., you will surely get
> a great deal on accessories by buying a fully outfitted lathe
> compared to buying those parts aftermarket.  You will probably also
> get better fitting accessories, too, if they are original brand and
> in good shape.
> 
> Do you think I'm out to lunch on this one?  :-)
> --
> Bob Neidorff <neidorff@uicc.com>


I couldn't agree more.  In addition, the tooling and/or missing part 
you don't get will ALWAYS cost as much or more as the machine you buy 
without it, if you are lucky enough to find it at all...

Mike Patrick


From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:10:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35262 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.tufts.edu!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 30" sheetmetal machine question
Date: 19 Sep 1996 19:35:00 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <jesw-1909961539260001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <01bba5ac$ebc2f100$186ae7ce@cwmead.top.monad.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> Is there anyone out there with experience with a 30" combination sheetmetal
> machine, shear,brake and roll.  One of the used machinery dealers i talked
> to today said they are junk because they don't roll evenly , the won't bend
> a crisp 90 degree, and they roll the edge when they shear.  Can they really
> be that bad?  Is $415 a good price for an enco?  
> -- 

They need a lot of adjustment but the sheetmetal worker who showed me how
to use one didn't have much trouble. Mine will slice office paper cleanly
(after stoning the blades and about half an hour of fiddling with it.)
There is an adjustable brace on the back of the shear to control blade
deflection for cutting "heavy" stock. Better models have a big square bar
back there. 

The square cutting guide is a joke but it makes a good clamp for a 6"
ruler. The hold-down is worthless except as a finger guard. Use wood and C
clamps. 

The male bending dies are not well made. The upper die holder on mine had
been factory shimmed to attempt to center the upper dies in the lower die.
It was still off and wouldn't bend a good corner until fixed. 

Better models have separate female die sections. Mine is from Central
Machinery and the female die is just the upper edge of the blade holder.
The design does lend itself to modifications and home-made male dies made
>from  scrap plate stock. 

The shop guy spent a while playing with the rolls before getting good
results. Apparently even professional machines are hard to set up.
Gingery's sheet metal book says that the pro's still use hand methods for
small jobs to save set-up time. 

One possible advantage of the 3-in-1 type is that both the shear and the
brake are open ended. You could trim a rough cut edge off a very long
piece of sheet metal, then hem it. 

I would have a real shear and finger brake if they weren't each twice as
expensive second hand as this one was almost new. (The first owner was
shearing something abrasive and the blade wouldn't hold up.)


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:10:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35263 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: South Bend Lathe
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <09960817160143.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <323EEDA7.7B8B@etcard.com> <51n16i$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:51:39 GMT
Lines: 30


In a previous article, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) says:

>In article <51n16i$8nu@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>, From barts@Eng.Sun.COM 
>(Bart Smaalders), the following was written:
>> Are you using a steady rest?  The cause of chatter on long workpieces 
>> is often flex in the workpiece itself... and a steady rest that 
>> travels w/ the carriage is a good solution in this case.
>

>A Steady Rest which travels with the carriage is called a Follow(er)
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^^^
They are also called a travelling rest in other parts of the world. 

>Rest.  A Steady (or Center) Rest is clamped to the bedways in a fixed
>position.  
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/17/96 16:02
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35264 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!agate!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Wade Benchtop Planer
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy5nxB.7ut@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <521tak$m42@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <5222q4$nvn@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:31:58 GMT
Lines: 12

In article <5222q4$nvn@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>,
Dave Ficken <mermac@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> I just picked up a cute benchtop planer Mill made by the Wade tool
>Co., Waltham , Mass. Is anyone familliar with these machines? 

You're my kind of guy, Dave.  Only a true lover of machinery would
call any greasy hunk of cast iron "cute".

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From drewid@lanminds.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35265 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: pewter casting-pit problems
Date: 22 Sep 1996 18:22:05 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <52404d$o1l@lanshark.lanminds.com>
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bgoudge@fox.nstn.ca wrote:
>using a centerfugal casting machine and vulcanized rubber molds I have a 
>problem of pits on smooth surfaces of my castings. I have tried 3 
>different types of pewter,different speeds,different pressure,different 
>molds,drying my powder and I still come up with pits. I haven't had the 
>time to research to find if weather affects casting. Can anyone help?
>

[If these are heavy solid pieces, your problem is probably shrinkage. 
The pores come from liquid metal inside the casting pulling metal from 
the surface. The answer is bigger gates or shrinkage reservoirs. I have 
posted an article about an analogous problem in silver castings on my
page under "Techniques of Sculpture."]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35266 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!agate!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Polygonal Tool Post.
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy5o3t.7xF@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <522k3n$7mc@demeter.omen.com.au>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 22:35:52 GMT
Lines: 16

In article <522k3n$7mc@demeter.omen.com.au>,
Ian R. Howcroft <chevin@faroc.com.au> wrote:
>I have mentioned this tool post to many people since I saw it in use
>(over thirty years ago), and I have never met anyone who has heard of
>or seen one of them.  Have any readers of this group come across them,
>and if so, do you have any details on how they worked?

I've not seen details on this modification to a tool holder, but have
seen mention in a lot of places, particularly in cutting relief on
lathe cut mills and the like.  I don't think anything like this is
made anymore.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From jdincau@cello.qnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35267 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.qnet.com!usenet
From: Jim Dincau <jdincau@cello.qnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 23 Sep 1996 00:19:04 GMT
Organization: Quantum Networking Solutions; USA; info@qnet.com
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <524l1o$dgb@mandolin.qnet.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: lanc00-27.ca.qnet.com

"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:
>
> On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Roy Robinson wrote:
> 
> > What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
> > different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
> > 
     I have wondered about that myself. After trying to drill a hole
with my brothers 'extreeeeeemly cheap' "imported" Silver & Deming
3/4" drill bit I have come to the conclusion that (at least in this
case) it means "drills ground with no back clearance", no kidding
the thing was ground to a cone shape on the end, correct angle but
nothing else.
Jim



From jdincau@cello.qnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35268 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!agate!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!news.qnet.com!usenet
From: Jim Dincau <jdincau@cello.qnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 00:12:03 GMT
Organization: Quantum Networking Solutions; USA; info@qnet.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <524kkj$dgb@mandolin.qnet.com>
References: <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.bu <51mq75$r87@news-2.csn.net> < <Dy4nGL.1nt@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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     One of the reasons the U.S. hasen't made the change may be the
aerospace industry. At the old lazy L we always used inches and
decimal parts thereof to dimention airplanes, no feet, yards, furlongs
or cubits were involved. Changing all the machine tools and measuring
instruments would not have any cost justification. If you can make a
mistake with decimal parts of an inch you can make the a mistake
with decimal parts of a meter. 
Jim


From keithclark@kw.igs.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35269 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!nntp.igs.net!usenet
From: keithclark@kw.igs.net (Keith J. Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: plans for miniature lathe
Date: 22 Sep 1996 20:27:40 GMT
Organization: IGS - Information Gateway Services
Lines: 7
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X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.6

I am looking for blueprints for a miniature lathe and milling machine 
that I could make myself.  Anyone know of a source?

Keith

keithclark@kw.igs.net



From crsnell@interlog.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35270 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.interlog.com!news
From: Charles Snell <crsnell@interlog.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: 23 Sep 1996 00:12:49 GMT
Organization: InterLog Internet Services
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <524km2$jnb@news.interlog.com>
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If you look at a drill and tap chart you will find that there are several 
letter drills used with standard size taps, hence the reason for their 
existance. Yes, the letter and number drills fill in the gaps between the 
fractional drills, and are where you have to go if you want to drill for 
a close clearance, etc.
-- 
 



From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35271 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 23 Sep 96 00:57:16 -0700
References: <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net> <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca> <nhull-2009961125080001@user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring. <Dy4n78.1My@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
Lines: 9

Steve,
>Rubbish, plenty of good  cutting tools are made in other countries, 
>including my own, Canada.  

Right you are.  The problem (and it IS our problem(that is the people 
of the USA)) is that most people here in the states actually forget 
about our friends to the north and accross the Atlantic.

Charlie


From suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us Fri Sep 27 16:10:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35272 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!relay.ga.unc.edu!sco.ncccs.cc.nc.us!suttons
From: "S. Russell Sutton" <suttons@ncccs.cc.nc.us>
Subject: WTB:  Houdall Collets for Wade Profiler
In-Reply-To: <Dy1GDo.38@fsa.bris.ac.uk> 
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I recently acquired a Wade Profiler.  I need collets which I'm told are 
'Houdall'  collets.  They are double angle type and maybe someone knows 
who originally made them.  I could use a spindle pulley if anyone has parts.

Russ


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35273 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Axiom on lathe buying
Date: 23 Sep 1996 11:47:06 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 46
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Sep 23  4:47:06 AM PDT 1996

In <3245A868.2C67@ix.netcom.com> Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
writes: 
>
>Bob Neidorff wrote:
> I have a theory on lathe buying.  Comments welcome.
> 
> My theory is that any used lathe that is sold stripped or with
> very little tooling is likely to be worn and/or damaged.  Any
> lathe that is sold fully tooled is likely to be quite servicable,
> well cared for, and a better value.
>

 As a Machinery Dealer, my strategy is to offer machines for sale in
two very different ways:
 A.) Basic machine,fair to poor condition, not much tooling, CHEAP
price.
 B.) Loaded with everything I can find, good to excellent condition,
higher sounding price (which is in fact cheaper than A) if you count
the value of all the goodies.)
 The reason: To satisfy the two basic types of customers I see in the
store.                                                                 
 Type A.) really believes that the 5th. window is free when you buy
four. He/she gets excited about a 40% off sale even though the store
probably doubles their prices before the sale.
 Type B.) knows there is no such thing as a free lunch. He/she knows
how expensive the accessories are if you need to buy them seperately.
Type B.) is my favorite kind of customer. I don't need to argue until
I'm blue in the face about why a machine is worth the asking price.
 Type A.) usually spends more time and money in the long run.
Ironically, he generally has less to show for it in the end.
 Type B.) pluncks down his money up front and is making chips while
type A is still driving to garage sales in search of that 4 jaw chuck
he still needs.
 A machine in good to excellent condition is not worth selling  without
a lot of tooling. The tooling helps you get a respectable price for the
machine. That is the reason many (though not all) stripped machines are
in poorer condition.                                                   
 I can think of 6 pristine- almost new machines I have aquired over the
years that had not one tool or accessory with them. The reason was that
over the years many of the goodies "walked" or got seperated and later
discarded. But, this is an exception, not the rule.
Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery " A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
http://hre.com/meridian



From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:10:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35274 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!saul2.u.washington.edu!jsp
From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 19:22:11 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960922191752.22874A-100000@saul2.u.washington.edu>
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On 21 Sep 1996 jlovallo@mixcom.com wrote:

> Jeff, I used to do some gun bluing using a mixture of sodium hydroxide (lye) and
> ammonium sulphate (fertilizer).  Temperature control for bluing is critical, the amount of
> lye in the solution is used to control the temperature.  This solution produced a very
> dense hard finish, but.... When mixing the solution, much strong ammonia gas is produced.
> Do it outdoors and don't get downwind.
>
> John
>

I called my friend and he said that he used Sodium Nitrate ( sold as
fertilizer for roses ) and Lye.      That gives a very black finish.
I will do a bit of experimenting and report the results.

					Cheers,



From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:10:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35275 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 19:42:56 -0700
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On 22 Sep 1996, Bruce Conner wrote:

>
> Here is some information from the Dixie Gun Works catalog on a simple
> blueing solution using (guess what?) fertilizer!
>
> Mix one part sodium nitrate, two parts caustic soda, and two parts water
> by volume. Mix and boil ONLY in a steel or enamelled container, NEVER in
> aluminum.  Boil the parts at 280 to 315 degrees F until the desired color
> is obtained.
>
> Looks as if the salts raise the boiling point a bit there. :')  Also, be
> sure to degrease your parts completely and all that.  Be careful, this
> solution sounds nasty if you were to get any on you.
>
>
> Bruce Conner
> bconner@cybercom.net
>

I called my friend today and found out that is what he used.  He didn't
give me any idea of what ratios, so thanks for that information.

					Cheers,




From cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca Fri Sep 27 16:10:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35276 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca (Christopher Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: 22 Sep 1996 21:20:55 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research
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George Edwards (gedwards@onramp.net) wrote:
: eric korenman wrote:
: > 
: > Someone recommended 'Japan Oil' paints
: > I think it is used to paint outdoor signs.
: > Ever heard of this?
: > 
: > thanks
: > 
: My search for the "right" paint started several years ago when I first
: started rebuilding used equipment for my shop.  I look in tool company
: catalogs, went to the many supply houses here in Houston, TX and even
: inquired to equipment manufacturers/importers.

: To make a long story short...I "found" the paint I have been using for
: the last 5 years at my neighborhood hardware store...2 blocks from my
: house.  It happens to be a True Value Hardware store.

: The paint is called Tru-Test X-O Rust, Interior/Exterior Enamel.

: The color I use most is XO-15 Machinery Gray (IBM No. 372 581).

: If you want to mix another color with the same quality paint, you start
: with XO-P Pastel Base (IBM No. 364 544) and go from there.

: These paints also come in spray cans as well if you pick a standard
: color.  This is why I use Machinery Gray most of the time...I can keep a
: paint and a spray can around the shop.

: It holds up well in a shop environment and grease and oil don't seem to
: effect it.

The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..  Better than
any enamel I've found, but takes more than a week at fairly well controlled
temperatures and humidity to dry and cure.  Unfortunately they're hard to
find in most areas, but their features include: self priming on most surfaces,
resistant to oils and grease and most other chemicals, as well as being tough
as nails (these paints are normally used for painting guns and gun parts that
are unbluable by normal means, so they'd better well be tough and chemical
resistant).  I've only managed to find three sources- Brownell's Alumahyde II
Canadian Tire Roll Bar paint, and some varieties of boat paints.  The first
two are only available in black, the boat paint in white (but you should be
able to add pigment to it).


: George

c4
--
Christopher Lau       | Nortel Wireless Networks / Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Mr. Unix              | This article contains my own opinions, not BNR's.
--                    | Bring back Trudeau!
cclau@nortel.ca       | (613)-763-8392


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35277 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip53.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: are there any foundries in Oregon?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 17:16:49
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With all this talk of having patterns made, and iron components cast,
is there anyone in Oregon(or anywhere NW) who will cast from
my patterns? How much does one pay for this service, if it's even available?


From rebeccas@fay.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35278 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!hubcap.clemson.edu!info.uah.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: rebeccas@fay.infi.net (Rebecca or Jim Schwitters)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 19:51:00 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 21
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Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:

>Just got a letter from Metal Lathe Accessories touting their new filing
>machine kit.  Saw one at NAMES and liked it very much.  Bout $100 U.S.
>for the kit.

>Gonna get me one so I have yet another machine to suck up bench space.

>Best regards,

>Mike Rehmus

I met Andy Lofquist, the owner of Metal Lathe Accessories, two years
ago.  I made the original wooden patterns for his die filer kit to his
specifications in exchange for a set of castings.  I built a prototype
>from  the first castings produced and like it very much.  It's an
excellent design, easy to build (I think), and performs very well.  It
runs very smoothly and quietly and does a good jub of filing.

Jim Schwitters



From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35279 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 02:14:57 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <51ui4u$87c@orb.direct.ca>, dalw@direct.ca (dal wagner) writes:
>In article <51pqqr$nf@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) says:
>>
>>I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
>>what is the composition of this metal?
>>
>>Jim Waggener
>>creativ@infi.net
>>
>Dal Wagner replies:
>
>Jim
>I can assure you it has nothing to do with the trucking industry.
>
>When they roll steel to make structural members they start with ingots
>that have "blow holes" or voids distributed through out the material.
>When they roll the material, these voids are pressed together or welded.
>Steel "deoxidized" in this manner is called "semikilled".
>There's nothing special about this material and nothing wrong with it.
>Hope you didn't pay a premium price for that "special semi steel".
>
>Regards
>
>Dal Wagner

Actually, it was the other Jim (me) who made the comment about 
trucking... don't pin that on Mr. Waggener!

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35280 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Catalog
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 03:12:15 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 63
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MSC...

My boss swears by these people... they are fast and efficient he
says...

I wrote them and they appear poised to go interactive... I believe
that this is going to happen early next year....

If you look at there catalog you will see that the graphics are done
in a way that you get the drift and yet the form is such that the
bandwidth to transfer is going to be at a minimum...

VERY SMART COMPANY

It is the future.... I am sure that others will follow and....

Others are AFRAID...

If not they should be.....or at least going in that direction...

McMaster Carr is not up last I checked.... they should be... and will
be I am sure (?).... their Catalog is also effective and its graphics
are minimal... but gvery functional...

BUT HARD TO GET...MSC is right on track...I would like to know where
they are having their catalog printed... that allows them to send one
to any one who asks.... 

Me thinkest they doth have a plan...

Forget the glossy stuff for now...

It aint going to work... the internet will allow later, 3-5 years
perhaps BUT....

Opportunities are here now... and the potential is VAST! And as it was
in the Klondike... it's first come first serve...

YT


On 9 Sep 1996 18:27:25 GMT, Frank Kerfoot <f.kerfoot@att.com> wrote:

>I'm finally getting around to requesting an MSC catalog, after all of the 
>wonderful reports here. The FAQ gives some phone numbers, but doesn't say 
>if there are any particular requirements (or a charge) to get a catalog. 
>How does this work for the hobbyist?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Frank Kerfoot
>f.kerfoot@att.com
>



The Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
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From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35281 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!vnetnews.value.net!usenet
From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: drill blanks
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 03:20:20 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32460122.8870338@news.value.net>
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On 12 Sep 1996 19:59:28 -0400, jwcercis@aol.com (JWCERCIS) wrote:

>I have never figured out many good uses for drill blanks.  What am I
>missing?
>
>Mill

I use drill blanks to align a bolt hole pattern to the slots in a mill
table....

1/4" tapped hole.... 13/64 dia blank approx.... thru hole... butt  to
slot for as close to perfect BHP alignment as they can ask for...

Clamp, dial, and you are there!

YT


The Machinists Exchange Online

On the Web:
http://www.machinists-exchange.com

email:
jingham@machinists-exchange.com


From larryphillips@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:10:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35282 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cs.utk.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Larry <larryphillips@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Teflon
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 15:28:19 -0700
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Recently, someone posted a message in the Amateur Telescope Making
group about a teflon material used to recondition worn surfaces
on machine tools. The material was described as:

- 1/32" inch thick

- etched on one side so that it could be bonded to the worn way

- made of a teflon composite to avoid the cold-flow problems pure
  teflon has

- scrapable, like cast iron

Has anyone heard of this method of repair? It seems like it could be
much less work the the traditional method of scraping the metal. In
particular, I hope it could help get my South Bend 9B lathe back to
not cutting a taper.

Larry Phillips
Richmond, VA


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Fri Sep 27 16:10:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35283 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 03:34:04 GMT
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On 15 Sep 1996 03:46:11 -0700, gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
wrote:

>
>Gentlemen, gentlemen! What is all this fuss about measurement? Such
>trivia makes life so much more complicated. Since I subscribed to the
>TLAR method....

Oh yes... that is tough bridge to cross but it is on the road to
master to be sure...

I told a Phd candidate onst that I could "see" a thousands of an inch
( 1/4 of a pubic hair) and he laughed...

But then I grabbed two gage pins one thou appart and ask him to
shuffle them... I was able to "see" the difference... as I know other
experienced machinists can also.

As a Mech-la-magician (mechanician) for UCB College of Chemistry we do
an incredible amount of precision work and have to shift gears
instantly to save money.... hank'n and a hewing and a eye balling

The eye is an amazing tool.... if more machinists used it more
carefully fewer mistakes would be made... 

"..if I put that hole there will it LOOK like the print?..."

Nuff Said....


The Machinists Exchange Online

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http://www.machinists-exchange.com

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From rolyan@wire.net.au Fri Sep 27 16:10:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35284 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rolyan@wire.net.au (Greg Naylor)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 12:17:22 GMT
Organization: General Re-Engineering Group
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8739 rec.crafts.metalworking:35284

C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl> wrote:

>Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
>as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
>But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
>Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?

The welded area can be thermally sprayed with zinc which will melt
into the existing hot dipped galvanizing.

Check our Web page at http://intmetl.com or http://intmetl.com/pacific

Regards, Greg Naylor
International Metalizing Corporation





From jdincau@cello.qnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35285 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!agate!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!news.qnet.com!usenet
From: Jim Dincau <jdincau@cello.qnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:semi steel/nodular/ductile/malliable iron
Date: 22 Sep 1996 23:58:12 GMT
Organization: Quantum Networking Solutions; USA; info@qnet.com
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <524jqk$cqt@mandolin.qnet.com>
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
>
> 
> In a previous article, CJGJ59A@prodigy.com (Mr. Art D. Devonshire) says:
> 
> >Semi Steel is when steel scrap is used in the production of grey cast 
> >iron. Art. San diego
> >
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> In truth, I believe the above describes Malleable Iron, not semi steel.
> 
Actually malliable iron is grey iron which has had a lengthly (as much
as 10 days) heat treatment to turn the carbon flakes into nodules. The
difference between 'malliable' and 'ductile' ('nodular') iron is
that the latter alloy produces a nodular structure as cast,or so says The
American Machinists Handbook.
Jim




From vuelta38@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35286 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Robb Simmons <vuelta38@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welding thin Mild Steel
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 23:00:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In article <323e0ee3.452591007@news.islandnet.com>,
	psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk (wayne weedon) wrote:
>
>>Anyway to my problem I have enormous difficulty welding thin sheet
>>steel, like car bodywork.  Blowing holes though on butt welds very
>>easily!  I use an Argon/Co2 mix formalated for this application but
>>cannot seem to get the thing to weld properly (Or should i say myself!)
>>
>>I can run a weld though the middle of the same gauge sheet without
>>blowing though, with a small bead appearing on the opposite side of the
>>material.
>>
>>My question is are there any secrets to doing this on these small MIG
>>welders?  Or should I invest in a more expensive machine?
>

As a structural welder working on heavy steel using FCAW (flux core arc
welding)(which is similar to MIG (GMAW) I experience the same blow through.

I will agree with Jens to use a lower amperage setting. If you are welding
vertical the heat will travel through the metal and cause the metal to blow
out. A method to prevent this is called back-step welding (ie. start 1 in.
>from  the top, weld your way up, go back to the start of the weld, go down
one in. below that and weld up. continuing this from the the top to bottom,
welding upward. 

As for a backing, copper is good, we use a ceramic backing strip that has a
depression in it for welding up gaps of .25" to 3.5 in. Check with your
local welding supply for availability of ceramic backing. 

The best method gor welding sheet metal is TIG (GTAW) welding, it has more
control than MIG, because you add the filler metal as you go, and has better
amperage control.


Good luck!

Robb Simmons
vuelta38@ix.netcom.com

 


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35287 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machine oil
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 10:02:51 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
Lines: 6
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CC: kevrhods@ix.netcom.com

Sorry if this a FAQ.  I looked there and could not find.  I just 
purchased a lathe and want to keep it humming along.  The seller 
recommended SAE 30 non-detergent for machine oil.  He was fairly 
emp[hatic about this.  I am having a helluva time finding non-detergent. 
 It seems that someone said that they use Mobil 1.  Is this true.  Any 
hints on what type of retailers may carry a suitable oil?


From rcook@BIX.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35288 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge Welding, what's the secret?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 05:44:49 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 69
Message-ID: <52584h$qst@news2.delphi.com>
References: <32455FB4.233A@teclink.net>
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Ed Kreyling wrote:
>  I tried my first attempt at welding, which failed
>miserably.  I have not been able to find a book or article that explains
>the technique well enough for me to understand.   I bent a piece of 1/2
>inch sq stock back over itself about 3 inches.  Then I heated both
>layers until it was sparkling, placed it on the anvil and attempted to
>hammer them into one layer.  What I ended up with were 2 very thin
>layers.  What is missing? 

1) Practice

2) Flux

3) Practice

4) Proper welding heat

5) Practice

6) Proper hammer technique

7-10) Practice

Forge welding is tricky to learn but pretty easy once you get the knack.
The only way to learn it is to heat some metal and try it over and over
again. Your first attempt ALWAYS fails. If you're lucky your 20th attempt
won't, although you'll probably be up around your 100th attempt before you
can do it consistently.

The best way to learn is to work with someone who already knows how to do
it. You can work it out for yourself but it takes a lot longer.

Now, as to specifics, as I glean them from your description:

You need to flux your metal to prevent oxide formation on the surfaces to
be welded. Oxide is a weld-killer, surefire. Flux keeps the air out by
melting and forming coating on the surface.

My favorite flux is ordinary borax, the kind that's sold in the soap
section of your supermarket. (NOT soap with borax added, but pure borax!).
To use you prepare your surface, heat to below red heat, dip into the flux
and make sure there's a clear, glassy coat on the surfaces to be welded.
Then you put your iron back in the fire and bring it up to welding heat.

'Welding heat' is determined by experience. In most kinds of steel it is a
clear yellow heat with a surface that looks kind of waxy. I know that's not
much help, but it's the best I can do in words. You do not want the metal
sparking. That's too hot and won't make a good weld. (You're probably also
putting too much oxygen into the fire but that's another issue.)

The hammer technique is also hard to describe. I bring the piece out of the
fire, lay it on the anvil and immediately strike a couple of light blows to
kind of tack it together. Then I start hammering at the center and work
outwards to drive the flux and impurities out of the joint. You don't have
to smash the work, but you do have to strike hard enough to consolidate the
pieces. (If that makes any sense.)

Bending  a bar of metal back on itself and welding it is a good way to
practice. When you finish a weld, let it cool in the air and then take a
cold chisel and cut through the welded section to see what the interior of
the weld is like. The biggest problem with forge welding is getting a clean
weld in the interior without inclusions of slag or air pockets that will
weaken the weld.

Keep at it and good luck!

--RC




From 3CAP@MSG.TI.COM Fri Sep 27 16:11:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35289 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.dseg.ti.com!news	
From: Carl Porter <3CAP@MSG.TI.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 01:42:37 -0500
Organization: Envirornmental Support
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3246315D.7872@MSG.TI.COM>
References: <32417512.74C1@sedona.net>
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To: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>

Doug Von Gausig wrote:
> 
> Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
> fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
> which will be used on "desktop" fountains.
> 
> Thanks very much in advance!
> Doug
> --
> ***************************************
> Doug Von Gausig
> Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
> lookma@sedona.net
> http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
> ***************************************

Edmund Scientific has a small selection for sale.


From speff@io.org Fri Sep 27 16:11:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35290 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!news2.interlog.com!news1.io.org!speff
From: speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric : "Jerry" building; When all else fails, look it up!
Date: 23 Sep 1996 14:16:04 GMT
Organization: Internex Online (shell.io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <526634$j99@news1.io.org>
References: <walter.88.0000BDDE@walter.airtime.co.uk> <3243E321.E64@mail.idt.net> <520j5s$mrr@news.intranet.ca> <32450F47.3520@mail.idt.net>
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Tony P. (aep19@mail.idt.net) wrought:
[some stuff on "jerry-built" ]

According to the big OED, there was an unconfirmed  newspaper report in 
1884 that related the term to the name of a building firm on the Mersey*. 
Earliest example found was in 1869. 
* Near Liverpool, England 

This predates by about 50 years the WWI application of the term "Jerry" 
to Germans. 

BTW, to the fellow who thinks anything more that .0005" out is scrap, I 
hope you don't watch workmen working on your house or look too closely at 
your car! ;-)  

S.P. 


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35291 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for metalworking FAQ
Date: 23 Sep 1996 01:35:51 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 20
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In article <522nbh$8k7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From luis101@aol.com 
(Luis101), the following was written:
> Also, I'm in the market for a 10 to 12 inch lathe and am having 
> difficulty deciding between a Southbend and a Logan.  Are they 
> both essentially the same as far a quality? 

I may be a bit biased, but I prefer the Logan.  Seriously, I think they
are similar in quality, but I'd like to hear some other, less biased
opinions.

Also, the Logan has one big advantage... ME!  I don't see anyone from SB
here, and I understand our prices are a LOT lower for similar items.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/22/96 20:34
 http://www.loganact.com




From r.lee@windshadow.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35292 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cs.utk.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!usenet
From: "Randolph Lee" <r.lee@windshadow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Darex Drill Doctor experience - round 2
Date: 22 Sep 96 18:31:01 -0500
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <AE6B3668-17AF4F@204.249.164.138>
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Well I am glad to see that others got theirs... still waiting for mine
ordered on the 27th or so... and due in a week they said... Yesterday I got
the bill via Smail with the actual flimsy for the CCarddated the 19th so
perhaps I will see it soon but I am bothered a bit by the rough wheel to
start with...

> 4.  The diamond wheel is quite rough and the ground finish on the 
>drill bit is not what I'd call smooth.  (perhaps it will smooth out 
>after some use) #4 Again Mike is correct.  The 180 grit diamond wheel 
>is an  electroplated wheel. Ideally, the diamond grit is slightly 
>more than half-way submerged into the plating--thus held tight.  Of
>course, a small percent of the diamonds are not submerged enough--
>thus they protrude too much--causing roughness.  Initially, the wheel 
>will feel rough  and grind rough until 20 or so "break-in" sharpenings.
>The "sticking-out" diamonds are soon knocked off.  The remaining grit 
>is all at same level (depth) thus producing a smooth finish.  
>As Jim Donnelly of this newsgroup will attest the finish is very 
>smooth, even on the split point facet.

Mr Anderson in a letter to me answering my questions on the 26th said

>> about how many drills (say 1/4") will the wheel last for? 
> ------A mix of
>all drills from 3/32" to 3/4" on our larger capacity model has yielded
400+
>sharpenings on average in our in-house testings.  We did not test for only
>1/4" drills, but I'd expect similar numbers.  One sharpening service who
>tested one of the first DD's said he's gone past 500 sharpenings without
any
>sign of the wheel wearing down.  He did a mix of HSS and carbide drills. 
In
>other words, each sharpening removes 5 cents of the wheel's life.    
>>
>> and how much is a new wheel and how hard is it to change it?  
>------$20.
>Not hard at all.  The black cover pops off revealing the wheel.  The wheel
>is held on with two Phillip head screws.  We supply a wrench to hold the
hub
>as you turn the two screws.  

thus about 5% of the life of the wheel is given over to breaking it  in ...
Mike are these first 20 drills so rough that they need to be stoned or
quickly resharpened? is it in fact about 20 till it smooths out? or are we
tossing away a buck or two of the wheel life right off the bat?

perhaps it would be best to take 20 of your worst 'almost scrap' burned and
chipped drills and clean them up... then do them again and you would be up
and running... esp as that $20 new wheel will be about $25 or more with S&H
I bet...

90% of getting results out of the Martex drill sharpener was in aligning
the drill in the collet and not having the drill slip in the nylon collet
once it was set... that and well dressed wheel and it worked fairly well...
but the need to carefully check what the drill setting jig had done and
reset by hand when it was not right ment that I sold the unit on... That
and noise from the old electric drill I was running it on...... I hope for
better from the Drill Doctor.

well in any case I hope I get use mine before I go off line (and out of my
shop) for the month of Oct... otherwise I wont get much use out of that 30
day Money back clause they offer...

I will report on mine when I get it If time permits before I take off for
the UK on the 2ed...






From jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk Fri Sep 27 16:11:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35293 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!uknet!yama.mcc.ac.uk!loki.cf.ac.uk!news
From: Michael Jones <jonesmw1@cf.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Steam boats in the UK
Sender: news@cf.ac.uk (Usenet News user)
Message-ID: <3246B829.22B0@cf.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 16:17:45 GMT
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John Haine wrote:
> 
> Is anyone out there in the UK with information on obtaining castings
> for engines for small (up to 25 ft) steam launches, or experience
> building either engines or boats, please?

If you're looking for steam launch engines, I know of at least two sources:

Camden Miniature Steam Services
Barrow Farm, Rode,
Nr. Bath Somerset BA3 6PS

Tel. (01373) 830151  Fax. (01373) 830516

They offer the drawings and castings for the steam launch engine designed by A.A. Leak 
serialized in about 1982-83 in Model Engineer. It is the larger of the two designs as I 
recall. Both engines require some biggish equipment to make (particularly a good 
vertical mill).

Leak's design offers a lot of nice features and it's well worth checking out the 
building series in Model Engineer. It's slightly larger in bore and stroke than the 
Stuart, as I recall.

Stuart Models
Braye Road Industrial Estate
Vale, Guernsey
Channel Islands GY3 5XA
UK

Tel: (01481) 49515 Fax: (01481) 47912

The Stuart Turner 6A compound launch engine is offered as a set of castings. This engine 
is 2-1/4 x 4 x 3 stroke. It's current price is about £970 (sterling) less VAT.

Hope that helps.

Mike Jones
(Cardiff)


From jhall@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35294 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.uunet.ca!apollo.isisnet.com!thor.atcon.com!ts1-d19
From: jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: collets
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 96 12:31:58 GMT
Organization: Atlantic Connect
Lines: 5
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There is an article in the new HSM about making one's own 3C collets. 
I am wondering about the feasibility of making the other components 
for using collets: drawbar, nose cap and sleeve. Any comments?

John


From mitchell@cwo.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35295 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mitchell@cwo.com (Mitch the WoodMitch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: 23 Sep 1996 01:11:26 GMT
Organization: The WoodMitch Shop
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I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale, and want to 
know its fair market value here in northern California. The lathe 
appears to be in good condition, with perhaps a replacement motor 
(German, different color, plastic housing, but otherwise appears 
correct.) The motor runs fine.

There is no manual, and the drive belts are in poor condition. I 
understand that these lathes are no longer produced. Is the manual 
available; and the drive belts? The lathe has a face plate/drive dog, 
and Jacobs-type chuck, but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
these available at a reasonable cost? 

It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.

Thanks to anyone on the NG who can steer me in the right direction or 
provide me with information about this lathe. Mitch



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35296 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!news-w.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!chi-news.cic.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Teflon
Date: 23 Sep 1996 04:54:22 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 25
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Larry (larryphillips@worldnet.att.net) wrote:
: Recently, someone posted a message in the Amateur Telescope Making
: group about a teflon material used to recondition worn surfaces
: on machine tools. The material was described as:

: - 1/32" inch thick

: - etched on one side so that it could be bonded to the worn way

: - made of a teflon composite to avoid the cold-flow problems pure
:   teflon has

: - scrapable, like cast iron

: Has anyone heard of this method of repair? It seems like it could be
: much less work the the traditional method of scraping the metal. In
: particular, I hope it could help get my South Bend 9B lathe back to
: not cutting a taper.

This is Turcite.  I don't know where you can get it, but it is considered
one of the best methods of restoring old machines, as well as wear-proofing
new ones.  Many new CNC machines come with Turcite-surfaced ways.
Be warned, it is apparently VERY expensive stuff - each strip may run
several hundred dollars.  it is pronounced with a hard 'C', like Turkey.
You might ask araound at local machine tool dealers.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35297 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade EDM
Date: 23 Sep 1996 05:00:33 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <5255hh$t2p@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Bob Beck (beckx024@gold.tc.umn.edu) wrote:
: I belive HSM ran a series of articles on a home made EDM machine. It was
: based on a Popular Science article. One of the two articles had a bunch of
: errors in it.

: I would like to build a machine and wonder if anyone has "bulletproof"
: instructions on how to proceed. Does anyone have the articles or other
: data on their homepage?? 

You might also try to reach Robert Langlois on the NewsGroup 
Sci.Electronics.?  I corresponded with him a year or so ago about this
project, when he wanted to know about homemade circuit boards.
There are several sci.electronics.*** groups, I don't know for sure which
ones he reads more often.  You could also use the dejanews search engine
to look for an old posting of his just to get his net address.

					Jon



From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35298 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 12:16:05 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net>
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In article <nhull-2009961125080001@user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring.com>,
   nhull@mindspring.com (Nick Hull) wrote:
>In article <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca>, rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca wrote:
>
>> What are Silver & Deming drill bits?  I have seen them for sale made by
>> different manufacturers and wonder what is different about them?
>
>All the ones I have seen are made in China.
>
Silver and Demming drills have 1/2" shanks on them. For a large drill, like 
1-1/2", it makes it a lot easier to hold in an arbor.

The universal law on cutting tools is, if it isn't made in the USA, it isn't a 
cutting tool. Chinese or Polish drills arn't worth having even as a bad joke.
The Silver and Demming drills I use are made by Viking Drill in St. Paul MN. 


From hagemann@execpc.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35299 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!fpm0451
From: hagemann@execpc.com (John P. Hagemann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How Good/Bad Is My New Anvil?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 96 14:43:30 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison
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I recently purchased an anvil from a farmer out in the boonies.  I cleaned the 
years of caked on grease and grime off of it and I found the following 
writing...

Sweden          Paragon
          167 Lbs.

There is a small picture of what appears to be a straight razor above the word 
"Sweden."  The anvil is in very nice shape.  The face and horn have only minor 
scratches and there is very little, if any, hollowing of the face.  It doesn't 
look as though it's ever been refaced.  There are some nicks on the sides of 
the face, but I believe they can either be avoided or ground out.  When 
struck, it gives a nice, sharp ring.  The hammer bounces nicely from it.

It came with a nice hot cut hardy tool, also.  I paid $75.00 for it.  Anybody 
know if this is a good anvil?  How can I tell if it's forged or cast?  Any 
info would be greatly appreciated.

John P. Hagemann     hagemann@execpc.com


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35300 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cyberstore.ca!skypoint.com!newshub.tc.umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy1J7x.M4A@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <3241E342.689@holli.com> <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:59:56 GMT
Lines: 21

In article <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>,
Kevin Rhodes, P.E. <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Technically, it is not a machine gun although it may sound like one.  It 
>would actually be a semi-automatic in that the trigger would be manually 
>depressed (by turning the crank) for each shot.  I had read something to 
>this effect in Machine Gun News.
>
>The GE mini-gun is not technically a machine gun, but try to convince the 
>ATF.

Sorry, but according to law a GE mini-gun is a machine gun as it
fires more than one projectile with a single mechanical motion (pull
of the trigger).  As long as you have to move something to make
another cartridge fire it's not a machine gun, thus a Gatling gun, with 
a crank motion to fire another round, is not a machine gun (until you
put a motor on it, anyway).

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35301 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 17:11:28 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 48
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References: <524o3u$on7@news.xmission.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d159.w.interaccess.com

Note: E-mailed *and* posted.

In article <524o3u$on7@news.xmission.com>,
Mitch the WoodMitch <mitchell@cwo.com> wrote:
:I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale, ...
:
:There is no manual, and the drive belts are in poor condition. I 
:understand that these lathes are no longer produced. Is the manual 
:available; and the drive belts? The lathe has a face plate/drive dog, 
:and Jacobs-type chuck, but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
:these available at a reasonable cost? 

There is a limited supply of parts/accessories available at fairly
obscene prices from Blue Ridge Machinery, 800-872-6500.  (Example:
$8.50 for *ONE* T-nut.)

I've noticed that Sherline has a 4-jaw chuck that will fit these
Unimats.  If you get a M12x1 tap you can make or adapt other tooling for
the spindle.

You can use large O rings for drive belts, at least at low speeds.  You
need to select O rings that do not need to be stretched too much, or
they will fail quickly.  You can also get round polycord belting
material suitable for making endless belts for use at up to 14,000 RPM.
(Available from Small Parts Inc., 800-220-4242, and other suppliers.)

:It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
:plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.

You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.  The only vertical
feed is the uncalibrated quill feed, which has only about 1/2" of
travel, and the unit just isn't rigid enough to use a standard milling
cutter on anything much harder than soap.  The rods that form the bed
will deflect visibly just from the pressure of your hand on the
carriage.  It does work as a miniature drill press, though that limited
quill travel can be quite restricting and often requires that you unlock
and move the whole head in order to change the drill bit.

BTW, for metal work the low-speed attachment is a must.  (That's the
idler pully next to the motor.  It was an option on early units; I
believe it became standard later.)  I'm not aware of any decent variable
speed motor that's a adequate substitute.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35302 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Fountain Pumps Needed
Date: 23 Sep 1996 15:51:02 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 17
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <3246315D.7872@MSG.TI.COM>, Carl Porter <3CAP@MSG.TI.COM>
writes:

>> Can anyone turn me on to a source for the pumps used in small household
>> fountains? I'm looking for very low volume (read inexpensive) pumps
>> which will be used on "desktop" fountains.
>>

Try Surplus Traders on the WWW. I don't have their Home page address but
this is what I use to get to their catalog.

http://www.73.com/a/index4.shtml

If that doesn't work for you then try WebCrawler and search on the phrase
"Surplus Traders"

Peter


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35303 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pacifier!news.sba.com!feeder.chicago.cic.net!chi-news.cic.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Bill Cottrell" <wcottr@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: cnc controlled plasma burner table
Date: 23 Sep 1996 15:21:25 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I am looking for a small cnc controlled plasma burning table. If you have
anything like this please E-mail info.



From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35304 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: WTB: For 9" SB lathe and Van Norman 1/2 mill
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Bob, Haskell wrote:
 
> For a Van Norman # 1/2 Mill
> 
>         - drawbar - the threads in mine are pretty shot
>         - end mill holders
>         - documentation - operator/repair manuals, lubrication charts, etc.
> 
> I've checked with Sobel (no luck with the lathe items and he's checking on the
> mill pieces) and have also sent a message to Dave at meridian machinery.  I'll
> be also getting a hold of Metal Lathe Associates.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob Haskell

Dear Bob,

I just talked to Hardinge. They carry the 5V collets for my Van Norman
#12 (is this what you have?). The 3/8" and 1/4" collets were all that I
asked about--these were $53 and in stock. They will make them if they
don't have them.

Hardinge 607-734-2281

If you don't locate manuals, I will be getting photocopies some someday
soon. Write me if you don't find a quicker source.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From alan_richer@crd.lotus.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35305 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!delphi.com!cam-news-feed1.bbnplanet.com!Door.lotus.com!usenet
From: "Alan J. Richer" <alan_richer@crd.lotus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bluing/blackening zinc-plated fasteners - how?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 12:58:38 -0400
Organization: Lotus Development Corp.
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In the ongoing battle with my elderly Land-Rover, i've decided that I am 
tired of the shiny zinc bolts adorning his exterior are a menace to 
society and my sanity (they corrode easily...).

As the original fasteners on the beast were either Parkerised or 
Sheridised (basically black-oxide coated), the threads on homemade hot 
bluing are fascinating me.

But, to the point:

Can this be done to a zinc-plated fastener? The grades of bolt I use 
(typically 5 and 8) are usually zinc plated, and the thought of trying 
to strip this stuff gives me the willies. Sadly, they can't be had plain 
- I've asked...

Any suggestions on how to do this?

			Al Richer/Chelmsford, Ma.


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35306 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steadyrest kit
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:57:25 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Yesterday I saw a post here talking about a steadyrest kit.
Please repost as I accidently deleted it before writing down the phone
number.
Does this company offer any other kits?
thanks in advance
Tom


From 72072.1516@CompuServe.COM Fri Sep 27 16:11:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35307 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Robert Cantilina <72072.1516@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: git.club.sword,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.knives
Subject: Looking for blade source
Date: 23 Sep 1996 16:14:16 GMT
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <526d0o$sar$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35307 rec.knives:12915

Looking for a source to purchase the following blade

shape: like a meat cleaver, 10" long including handle, 3" wide, 
1/8" thick
material: W-1 or W-2 (1.4% C), forged to reduce thickness by 
atleast 1/2
Flame hardened to R65c, triple tempered to R62c, convex edge 
shape, polished finish.  Thanks in advance.

Robert Cantilina
72072.1516@compuserve.com


From mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:11:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35308 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!sylvstrs.demon.co.uk
From: mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk (Mick Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs inches
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 08:09:01 BST
Organization: home
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <n12071D32@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>
References: <Dy4o4K.1qD@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

> A fortnight is two weeks.  The term is still in use in the UK,

 Where the expression "fourteen days" is reserved for prison sentences.

  -- 
      Cheers - Mick  -  mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35309 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: 23 Sep 1996 18:54:39 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 27
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Chester A. Roberts, Jr. (ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote:

: A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric
: acid as recommended by Hiraoka in his silver soldguide-
: lines.  I received a number of replies including: swimming pool
: chemical "Sodium Bisulfate" which is used to lower pool ph.
:    Problem #1:  I bought the chemical, but there is no descript-
: ion of how to achieve a 10% acid solution.  I guessed and used
: 6.4 ounces (volume) with water to make a half gallon.  A theo-
: retical 10% of 64 ounces.  Caused some bubbles but didn't seem
: to do much to the metal.  I suspect this solution may be very
: very weak....
:    Problem #2: I also found an auto supply that sells battery
: acid.  Trouble is they don't list the strength of the acid.  The
: precautions on the box are pretty severe...I suspect that the
: acid may be way over 10% solution.
:    SOOOOOO..... If you actually know how to make a 10% solution
: using swimming pool conditioner (sodium bisulfate) OR how to make
: a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.
:    PLEASE no guessing...but if you do know I'd sure appreciate
: your advice!

I think batterty acid is 30% by weight (anyone: please correct me if
I'm wrong) - so if you dilute 1 part battery acid with 2 parts water,
(by volume) you will get very close to 10% by weight.  If you dilute 
1 part acid with 2 parts water by weight, you'll get even closer.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35310 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 23 Sep 1996 18:50:21 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 20
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References: <3246C2BB.6F9@ix.netcom.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Kevin Rhodes, P.E. (kevrhods@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: Sorry if this a FAQ.  I looked there and could not find.  I just 
: purchased a lathe and want to keep it humming along.  The seller 
: recommended SAE 30 non-detergent for machine oil.  He was fairly 
: emp[hatic about this.  I am having a helluva time finding non-detergent. 
:  It seems that someone said that they use Mobil 1.  Is this true.  Any 
: hints on what type of retailers may carry a suitable oil?

This type of oil is still sold for lawnmowers and similar small engines.
It depends on what type of headstock bearings you have as to whether this
is right for you.  It is good for worn journal bearings, but too heavy
for good journal bearings and roller bearings.  It is probably OK for
all sliding surfaces (ie. bed ways, cross slide, tailstock, etc.)
I use #10 on my headstock spindle, #30 on everything else.

MSC, Enco and all the other machine tool supply outfits sell lubricants
specifically designed for machine tools.  There is way-lube for the sliding
ways and spindle lubes for the bearings.  Most of these can be ordered
in gallon jugs.



From f.kerfoot@att.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35311 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-5.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!cbgw3.lucent.com!newshub.netnews.att.com!news
From: Frank Kerfoot <f.kerfoot@att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metric vs Inches for modeling
Date: 23 Sep 1996 18:55:50 GMT
Organization: AT&T Submarine Systems
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In considering all of the heated comments recently on the relative merits 
of the metric system as compared to the english system,I find that the 
english system has a significant benefit for me (beyond the facts that I 
grew up with it, so it is natural for me, and that all of my equipment 
and measuring tools are english). Most of my machine work involves live 
steam train models. I am working in 1/8 scale (7 1/4" gauge). Another 
common scale is 1/16, corresponding to 3 1/2" scale for a standard gauge 
prototype loco. Both of these scales and gauges are the de-facto 
standards in the metric world as well. When working in 1/8 scale, the 
fractional sizing of english stock is very handy. A 1" dimension on the 
prototype is 1/8" on the model, and available as a standard thickness or 
width.Likewise for multiple inch dimensions. While not everything can be 
scaled directly from the prototype due to strength or functionality 
concerns, a lot of it can, and fractional inch sizing facilitates this. I 
don't see much modeling (at least of trains) in 1/10 or 1/100, which 
would cater to metric measurements.

Frank Kerfoot
f.kerfoot@att.com



From gilmore@korrnet.org Fri Sep 27 16:11:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35312 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gary L Lawson <gilmore@korrnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 15:27:50 -0400
Organization: University of Tennessee
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.960923152504.23251A-100000@clarion.korrnet.org>
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To: Tom <babcock@infi.net>
In-Reply-To: <babcock.13.011C8E6D@infi.net>

excuse my ignorance but what the heck does MSC stand for and where do you
get this catalog?????   gilmore@korrnet.org
X





m

m
       CCCCCC




From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:11:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35313 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 19:35:05 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 22
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References: <521qb7$qpe@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com


>   Look in your MSC catalog. They show that jacobs makes a heavy duty chuck
> with 3/4-16 threads. It has a capacity range of .188 in to .800 in. While
> not a Ball Bearing Super Chuck they do a pretty good job.
> 
>                                  Hope this helps
>                                     LWC

I have a large Jacobs chuck that screws onto my 10" Atlas's spindle...
It's capacity is something like 3/4" or more... 

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35314 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spray Mister Coolant Machines
Date: 23 Sep 1996 05:15:02 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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References: <00001f0c+00003300@msn.com> <50g687$cp4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <50i01i$qe0@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3236173c.4587259@news.demon.co.uk>
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Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: The moving finger of jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
: having written:

: >It takes so much Ethyl Alcohol,
: >that they put you on a respirator for 2 days, because you're too drunk
: >to breathe!
: >

: So _that_ is what happened to my last weekend !

: What happens if you use propylene glycol, instead of ethylene glycol ?
: It's non toxic (cookie shops use it for that yucky "moist" texture),
: and it doesn't taste so sweet, so it's not so attractive to farm
: animals.  Since watching the cows make a bee-line for spilt ethylene
: glycol antifreeze, I've started to use propylene glycol in the car.
: Does it work as cutting fluid ?

Well, I've never tried it for machining.  It is apparently untouched by
any enzyme in mammals, so it just passes straight through your system.
It is a slight solvent, as well as affecting freezing and boiling points
of water.  Since you have some around, just try it and let us know!


From hollen@vigra.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35315 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 15:25:06 GMT
Organization: vigra.com
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In-Reply-To: cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca's message of 22 Sep 1996 21:20:55 GMT
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I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.

dion
-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From ldouglass@gatecom.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35316 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "L. E. Douglass P.E." <ldouglass@gatecom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Smithy Tent(?) Sale
Date: 23 Sep 1996 21:54:08 GMT
Organization: PBCo
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I mentioned in a previous message attending a Tent Sale at Smithy inAnn
Arbor, Mi.  I called them today and they are having another sale of
Refurbished machines, discounted new machines, and possibly accessories on
October 5th.		

If anyone is interested in attending, you might want to call them at
800-476-4849 for directions and details.		

No I don't work for them, but I enjoyed dealing with them.

Regards ***LEN***


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35317 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:05:20 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32475E00.7D6@mail.idt.net>
References: <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net> <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca> <nhull-2009961125080001@user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring. <Dy4n78.1My@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <00001f0c+0000354e@msn.com>
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To: Charles Gallo <Charles_Gallo@msn.com>

It's even worse than that.  I think most people here don't even think 
of Canadians (or at least Canadian products) as "foreign."  That's good 
in the sense that they get equal treatment, but my Canadian friends get 
quite stuffy about pointing out they have their own country even if it's 
just over the horizon.

   Actually, I've gotten a load of aerospace- and auto-industry bits and 
tools and a lot of them came from Canada.  I don't think they were 
cost-cutting over at Boeing or Ford when they bought them.

   As far as the Brits are concerned, it's like the man said: you get no 
more than you pay for (and if you're careful, no less).  Certainly 
world-class if you pay the price, garbage if you pay garbage price.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:11:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35318 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade EDM
Message-ID: <1996Sep23.143133.25086@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Sep 96 14:31:33 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <beckx024-2109961939580001@dialup-16-a-16.gw.umn.edu>, beckx024@gold.tc.umn.edu (Bob Beck) writes:
|>I belive HSM ran a series of articles on a home made EDM machine. It was
|>based on a Popular Science article. One of the two articles had a bunch of
|>errors in it.
|>
|>I would like to build a machine and wonder if anyone has "bulletproof"
|>instructions on how to proceed. Does anyone have the articles or other
|>data on their homepage?? 

The web pages at http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal
have a brief section on EDM.  The Pop Sci article is sort of the
grand-daddy of them all, but in no way resembles the HSM series.

Jim


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:11:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35319 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Vacuum cleaner motors
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I tested a very powerful motor ( 13.4 Amps. ), and found it useless for a 
toolpost grinder.  Then I remembered a defunct powerhead in my storage room.
The motor is still good, is about the size of a sewing machine motor, but 
with much more power & higher RPM.  The only downside, is the plastic 
housing.  I am going to try to find a second one to repower my Boley 
lathe, as the present motor is too wimpy.  The motor would be almost ideal
for a Unimat.  It came from a Sears cannister model, with power head, of 
course.  I found out years ago, that it realy is a Hoover.  So now you 
all know what to look for!  I tried it on a sewing machine speed control, 
and it works fine.

Thanks to all who suggested this idea.
-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35320 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:15:00 GMT
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In article <nck9tlz225.fsf@axel.vigra.com> hollen@vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:

>I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
>in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
>fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.

What about Latex Epoxy Floor Paint?


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:11:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35321 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Polygonal Tool Post.
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References: <522k3n$7mc@demeter.omen.com.au>  
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 05:27:21 GMT
Lines: 42


You could modify the Ureka form relieving tool ( George Thomas ) to do this.



In a previous article, chevin@faroc.com.au (Ian R. Howcroft) says:

>o.iinet.net.au!demeter.omen.com.au!news
>From: chevin@faroc.com.au (Ian R. Howcroft)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Polygonal Tool Post.
>Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 05:53:04 GMT
>Organization: Omen Computer Services, Perth, Western Australia
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>X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
>
>
>Many years ago, I saw a tool post which, I am sure, was called a
>polygonal tool post, and  which was used - in that particular
>situation  - to "Turn" the hexagonal head on some bolts used in a
>fairly specialist application. I forget how it worked, but it was set
>up on a lathe, and the bolt was chucked just above the thread.  When
>the cut was set to the bolt head which was round at that time, the
>tool moved backwards and forwards quite rapidly, and formed a hexagon
>head on the bolt.  Obviously, the flats did have a small amount of
>curviture, but the head was more than good enough for a ring spanner.
>As we were the only people who ever positioned or removed the bolts,
>there was never a problem with the wrong spanner being used.
>I have mentioned this tool post to many people since I saw it in use
>(over thirty years ago), and I have never met anyone who has heard of
>or seen one of them.  Have any readers of this group come across them,
>and if so, do you have any details on how they worked?
>							Ian.
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:25:41 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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mitchell@cwo.com (Mitch the WoodMitch) wrote:
>I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale DELETED but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
>these available at a reasonable cost? deleted
 Mitch
>


Chucks are availaable for about $90



Reg Barron



From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ac.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:43:48 GMT
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mitchell@cwo.com (Mitch the WoodMitch) wrote:
>I found a Unimat SL1000 lathe at a neighbor's garage sale, and want to 
>know its fair market value here in northern California. The lathe 
>appears to be in good condition, with perhaps a replacement motor 
>(German, different color, plastic housing, but otherwise appears 
>correct.) The motor runs fine.
>
>There is no manual, and the drive belts are in poor condition. I 
>understand that these lathes are no longer produced. Is the manual 
>available; and the drive belts? The lathe has a face plate/drive dog, 
>and Jacobs-type chuck, but no "regular" 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck; are 
>these available at a reasonable cost? 
>
>It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
>plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.
>
>Thanks to anyone on the NG who can steer me in the right direction or 
>provide me with information about this lathe. Mitch
>




A friend picked one up for about $125 from a used machine dealer.
I got a stripped down one for $100 (to use as second machine).
Someone was asking $300 for one in mint condition - over priced IMHO.
These machines are no longer supported by the manufactuer.  Blue Ridge
(and sometimes Campbell) has whats left of the parts.  Chucks are 
available (about $90) manuals about $15 and belts about $4.  Some parts 
are extremely overpriced (motors - $200).

The motor on the one you saw, may not be a replacement.  My first Unimat
came with a grey plastic motor with an orange switch.

These machines are good (again IMHO) for: 
- people with big machines already who want something for small stuff
- people like myself who started with the machine years ago, and 
  want a second one to set up vertically (and still do just small stuff).
- people who like to make their own attachments - and just do small stuff.
- people who want to learn and can get them for a tremendous bargain 
(under $100) and will only do small stuff.
- people getting a bargain and buying for replacement parts.  

These machines were fine in their day for hobbiests working with 
miniatures (like model railroaders).  There has been an awful lot
written on "improving" and making homemade attachments for these 
little guys.  Bob Loader is still writing in MEW about the Unimat-3.

PS:  a friend with a Colchester is considering making new collet chucks
for the  Unimat SL (and maybe other stuff later), write me if interested.

Reg Barron




From Parsek@cris.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!Parsek
From: Parsek@cris.com (PARSEK)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 20 Sep 1996 22:39:48 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <51v6fk$ppd@herald.concentric.net>
References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <09-19-1996.10277@wwonline.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: voyager.cris.com

In article <09-19-1996.10277@wwonline.com>,
Vince Catalfo <vcatalfo@wwonline.com> wrote:

>Titanium is a huge Russian industry. At their level Ti is worth only 
>$2-3.00 per lb. This is cheaper than stainless steel. Also Ti is 
>extremely, stiff, its also very light, stonger than steel, and easy to 
>machine.

Don't forget great corrosion resistance.

>All this makes it right for the application.

'Gold plated' design was never a hallmark of Soviet engineering.  Lurk a
bit at sci.military.moderated.  For instance, each shiny new T-72 comes
with a lead mallet to 'persuade' the transmission to shift. 

Ti ingot was a fairly important export in an economy perpetually strapped
for foreign exchange.  Giving some snarling Tartar seargent a Ti
crowbar to make his life more fulfilling is more than a little strange.  






From 76257.3632@compuserve.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <76257.3632@compuserve.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: metric vs. inches
Date: 21 Sep 1996 03:45:59 GMT
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    I don't think it's as complicated as you believe.  The confusion comes
in distinguishing between the way we calculate and the way we subjectively
think and visualize.

   We grow up identifying objects in inches, and for life, we visually
estimate linear distance in inches, feet, yards, etc.  We are kind of stuck
with that, and as adults mostly have to estimate in those units and
mentally convert to metric if necessary.  Most people just never
develop an "eye" for metric dimensions (in my generation, anyway).

    On the other hand, calculating is much simpler than it sounds.  The rulers
we use are marked in half, quarter, eighth, sixteenth and 1/32 units.  Nobody 
uses, say 12ths of an inch.  The math gets complicated when adding, since
you must add feet, inches, half, quarter, eighth inches, etc, then reduce as 
far as possible (say 11/16ths or 7/8ths or 17/32s, but not 12/16ths [3/4] or 
16/32 [1/2].

   Anyone dealing with measurements daily ignores yards.  100 yards is 
just 300 feet.  Also, any professional uses decimals, and we all learn early to
do so as well in any precise work.  Thus, a surveyor would say 127.83 _feet_
and ignore yards and inches, or a technician may say 43.87 inches and 
ignore feet.

   The trick is converting the eighths, 16ths, etc into decimals, which
we all do mentally, sometimes badly, and a lot of errors result.  I have a
mental block about 16ths and check my answer twice.

    Since we all learn early to use decimals anyway, the switch
to metric is simple, but we adults can't get comfortable with the units.
I'll never visualize a millimeter or centimeter accurately without thinking
in inches first, and a meter is easier only because it's a bit more than a yard.

    Trying to switch the other way (from metric)would no doubt be a 
nightmare, but it's not quite as bad as you suspected.   If you can 
deal with inches and feet, and handle eighths and sixteenths, you're all set.  
Ignore the yards.  In fact, ignore the fractions and stick to decimals 
(e.g. 3.35 in. or even 3.65 feet) and you'll usually be fine.  Any engineer 
or technician you deal with is doing the same anyway.

   Finally, most people don't call it the "American" measurement system;
we call it "English" because the Brits inflicted it upon the unsuspecting
colonies before abandoning it themselves.  We should be angry.   It gets 
worse than 3's and 12's.  Acres are squares of something like 216 feet on
a side, and old deeds use rods (or poles) as units of measurement, and old 
maps sometimes even use leagues (whatever that is).  A lot of our old 
land records are incomprehensible.  

    They did the same thing with their money (shillings and guineas and crowns 
and what-all) and calendars (what's a fortnight?).  Pounds are 16 ounces, 
Were they also 16 shillings?   An ounce is 1/16th of a pound (mass 
measurement), but it's also 1/16th of a pint.  A pint isn't a pound unless
the bottle is full of water (one fluid ounce of water = one ounce weight).
Why is a gallon 128 ounces? And why isn't an Imperial gallon the same as 
a normal gallon?

    Why are there Troy ounces and avoirdupois (?) ounces? 
Why do we have drams and grains?  Fathoms?  Why is a Ton 2000 pounds?
(because it's a hundred stone?)

   None of it makes sense, but I have $10,000 worth of tools in inches
and when I have to work on metric fasteners, it takes me four tries
to grab the right metric wrench, so I hope I'm long gone when we finally 
switch over completely.

    One question for you:  a millimeter is tiny, and a centimeter is very small.  
A meter is very large.  You need something in between.  Do you
use decimeters?  Probably not, I guess.
   


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <R.Dy3LLx.26w@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 19:46:44 GMT
Lines: 41
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35326 sci.materials:20357

Reposting article removed by rogue canceller.

In article <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu>,
Jeffrey Prothero  <jsp@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>Does anyone know what blueing salts are?  And does anyone know which
>fertilizer can be used for blueing  ( possibly the same question )?

The most easily obtained chemicals are sodium hydroxide, sodium
nitrate and sodium nitrite.  Industrial grade chemicals are fine,
even prilled sodium nitrate fertilizer will work.  The percentages
are 50%, 25% and 25%, adding to water until the boiling point hits
(as another poster said) something like 295 degF.

Bluing can be a hit and miss proposition, if you don't have good
temperature control, a good prewash for degreasing and some
experience.  Most simply steels (10xx, 11xx and 12xx) will blue
nicely, even 12L14 comes out nice.  Chrome-Moly steels blue well as
well (naturally, with all those 4130 barrels out there but steels
with much nickle, or too much chromium will either not blue or blue
with some funny colors.  If you run into one of these (a post-64
model 94, as an example) you need to play with the bath time and
temperature to get a good blue.  Most time about 20 minutes at
295 degF will give a good blue.

Don't blue something with want to have low friction - iron oxide is
not known for low friction.  Aluminum will last a couple of seconds
in a bath, and copper will "kill" the salts, making for an expensive
replacement.  A wrapping of electrical tape will protect a surface
>from  bluing, as well as some paints.  Keep a bottle of white vinegar
around to neutralize the NaOH.  NaOH at 300 degF on exposed skin
really, really hurts.  If the "blue" is purple toss it back in and 
raise the temperature 5 degF.  Cast iron will blue eventually - 
leave it in the bath for a few cycles.  Boil what you pull from the
bath in water to remove the salts at least 10 minutes if there are
threads connecting anything.  Use a polarized oil after removing the 
clean blue metal, hang up hot to dry remaining water.

Don't get me started on phosphating.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From randyr@ibm.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 21 Sep 1996 15:43:28 GMT
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <R.5212f0$1nrq@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35327 sci.materials:20358

Reposting article removed by rogue canceller.

In <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu>, Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> writes:
>Many years ago a friend reblued the barrel of my .22 rifle in a tank of
>boiling solution of some salt.  This is of course the usual way blueing is
>done.  However the salts that he used were not sold for use in blueing.
>They were sold as fertilizer.
>
>Does anyone know what blueing salts are?  And does anyone know which
>fertilizer can be used for blueing  ( possibly the same question )?
>
>I recently bought some aluminum sulphate at the garden nursery for use in
>disolving a broken tap out of a piece of aluminum.  And this set me
>thinking.
>
>				Cheers,
>

Pretty good artlicle on bluing in the Sept/Oct 1996 issue of Home Shop Machinist.

It say that the salts used were called Oxynate No. 7 from Brownell's Inc.
They also have a pamphlet on "Bluing instructions and Supplies"

For catalog:

Brownell's Inc.
200 S. Front St.
Montezuma, IA 50171 

Randy


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 23:05:14 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 24
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jrro@watson.ibm.com wrote:
: In <51pqqr$nf@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) writes:
: >I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
: >what is the composition of this metal?
: >Jim Waggener
: >creativ@infi.net

: Obviously the composition is the same as those lathe chucks made from
: "semi-steel."  
: But - what is it really?  Maybe cheap steel made from old, ground up
: semi-tractor-trailer trucks.  Hmm.

"Semi-steel" is a fairly loose term... but cheap or junk it is not.
It's most often used for castings where better tensile and shock are 
wanted.  It's most often melted by electric furnace... so yes, scrap
is the charge.  An outstanding example of its use is for rail car
wheels.  I once had a facinating tour of Griffin Wheel (near O'Hare
airport, NW of Chicago) where semi-steel wheels were pressure cast
into two piece graphite molds.  The wheels were later dye penetrant
inspected.  I would venture to say that quality concerns at this plant 
exceeded what you would find at a foundry where castings for Bridgeport
or South Bend were made.  Far from junk :-}  In regards to composition,
just a guess... over 1%C, under 2%Si, and some Mn and even some other
low alloy content.


From cas@scd.etn.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cs.utk.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.thenet.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!ott.istar!istar.net!van.istar!west.istar!news-w.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!interserv.etn.com!usenet
From: Chuck Skarsaune <cas@scd.etn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric : "Jerry" building; When all else fails, look it up!
Date: 23 Sep 1996 11:34:43 GMT
Organization: Eaton Corporation
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <525skj$rh2@interserv.etn.com>
References: <walter.88.0000BDDE@walter.airtime.co.uk> <3243E321.E64@mail.idt.net> <520j5s$mrr@news.intranet.ca> <32450F47.3520@mail.idt.net>
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"Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net> wrote:
> <snip>
>Noting both the major influx of German immigrants to the American midwest of that 
>period, their impecuniousness, tenacious self-sufficiency and penchant for making 
>constructive use of nearly any available materials, I suspect the reference had the 
>obvious origin.  Based upon my readings and family history, the Germans might have 
>practically invented recycling -- using, refurbishing and re-using tools and materials 
>and eschewing the purchase of finished goods almost to the point of self-parody.  
> so no doubt landless German immigrants acquired the habit of re-using any 
>available scrap of material and brought it with them.  (Somewhat contrarily, many also 
>brought with them a tradition of craftsmanship in, among other things, wood, so I rather 
>suspect few spent many winters in the "jerrybuilt" cottages before their 
>circumstances permitted upgrading.)
><snip>
>    What does this ahv eto do with metalworking, and who cares?  I dunno.

 Well, what is has to do with metalworking is the penchant for "using, 
refurbishing, and re-using tools and materials" and  "re-using any available
scrap of material"! :)  
 This info and the German side of my family now gives me another reason/excuse
to use on my spouse when negotiating the purchase of various pieces of metal
resembling a machine tool.
 She's already found a reference on Norwegians that mentions their tendency to
be "do-it-yourself" types to the point of self parody - that explains my Dad's
side of the family!

Chuck

machine tools



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: painting FrankenLathe
Date: 23 Sep 1996 18:47:40 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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Full details are on the FrankenLathe home page, 

	http://www.dimebank.com/FrankenLathe.html

but since there has been a constant low-level discussion of painting
here, I thought I'd post the highlights of the weekend's activities:

All the parts were masked, but we hadn't quite worked out the painting
process. What we finally decided was to make hanging hooks out of coat
hanger wire to hang the individual pieces from the garage rafters. A
few pieces, like the headstock casting, were too heavy to support this
way - the formed hooks would just straighten out. Those were threaded
onto a rod and hung by string!

The bed was the hardest, since it's the biggest. We supported it on a
couple of crates inside the booth, and I crawled under the plastic to
paint the second side. We worked out a carefully choreographed maneuver
to turn it over (the bottom was painted first) that avoided touching
any non-masked surface. It took about four practice tries to get it
right, but it worked perfectly when it needed to.

The last preparation step before painting was to wipe the pieces down
with lacquer thinner. They were then treated with MetalPrep, which
leaves a thin phosphate coating to help prevent corrosion (and
supposedly improve paint adhesion).

I primed everything on Saturday. Everything got a single coat of PPG
DP40 primer, mixed 1:1 according to the directions. I shot it with a
"big" spray gun, with a quart cup, at about 45 psi. This took about two
hours with Ed and Pat shuffling parts to me to paint, and consumed
about a pint and a half of the primer.

Sunday we painted. This was going to be trickier, because the DuPont
Chroma One paint ("high solids, single stage acrylic urethane with
activator") claimed a pot life of 45 minutes. It also wants two coats
with a 15 minute flash-off period between them. That sounded like a lot
of running around with parts and not much room for error.

It wasn't as bad as expected. We got two coats on the bed, everything
that clamps on or attaches to the bed, the underdrive castings, and the
handlever tailstock pieces, before the gun started gumming up. I had
poured the remaining 2 oz. of paint into the cup in order to not expose
the siphon bottom, but there was some left. It was quite liquid - the
real problem was that the paint orifice on the gun (and probably some
of the internal passages) had started clogging.

This paint is even better than the primer - it was easy to put on full
wet coats, I got lots of visual cues before the paint started to sag (I
still ended up with two or three, but they're hardly noticeable - the
paint fills really well) and the finish is amazing. The parts that are
fairly smooth look like they're made of plastic. The parts that are
rough cast have been filled a fair amount and have a nice gloss.

I found two parts (out of about 60) that need to be retouched; I think
that's pretty good. Next step is to removed the masking tape and start
assembly, and wait for another warm day to paint the headstock and
covers, saddle and apron.


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help with refinish
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:18:12 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
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References: <526n87$s1v@tali.UCHSC.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com


	Any thoughts on - how to avoid the rust?

Dupont MetalPrep products are a good product for this; they remove
light surface rust and coat the surface to prevent rerusting at the
same time. Find it at your auto paint supplier.

For sheetmetal, I would have used something other than silica sand; glass 
beads would have been a better choice and caused less surface damage.
A good primer will cover much of the damage, anyway.

An alternative approach would be to just paint it with POR-15,
which will seal any existing rust and leave a very durable finish.


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Machine oil
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Could someone give a quick explanation of which oils are used where?
Jonathan has given a good start, differentiating sliding surfaces vs.
spindles. What about hand wheels where there is a little oil port to oil
the screw? Any significant differences between mills and lathes? What
kinds of problems develop using plain old motor oil? 

I don't mind buying the right lubricants, but I'm not sure which they
are!

Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
 It is probably OK for
> all sliding surfaces (ie. bed ways, cross slide, tailstock, etc.)
> I use #10 on my headstock spindle, #30 on everything else.
> 
> MSC, Enco and all the other machine tool supply outfits sell lubricants
> specifically designed for machine tools.  There is way-lube for the sliding
> ways and spindle lubes for the bearings.  Most of these can be ordered
> in gallon jugs.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From therbert@accesscomm.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bluto.accesscomm.net!usenet
From: therbert@accesscomm.net (Tom Herbert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:43:41 GMT
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
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"Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Sorry if this a FAQ.  I looked there and could not find.  I just 
>purchased a lathe and want to keep it humming along.  The seller 
>recommended SAE 30 non-detergent for machine oil.  He was fairly 
>emp[hatic about this.  I am having a helluva time finding non-detergent. 
> It seems that someone said that they use Mobil 1.  Is this true.  Any 
>hints on what type of retailers may carry a suitable oil?

Mobil makes a product called High-Speed spindle oil specifically
designed for machinery, lathes, mills, drill presses, etc.  It is
listed on the container as "medium viscosity", and seems to be about
20 wt.  It is a non-detergent product.  

I just bought a gallon of it (the only way it comes) from Rutland Tool
& Supply for about $11.00, but I know that other suppliers carry this
type of lubricant as well.  Wholesale Tool, and KBC come to mind,
whichever is in your area.

Tom Herbert




From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:46:25 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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keithclark@kw.igs.net (Keith J. Clark) wrote:
>I am looking for blueprints for a miniature lathe and milling machine 
>that I could make myself.  Anyone know of a source?
>
>Keith
>
>keithclark@kw.igs.net
>


For a really low tech homemade (but very clever) one for
"light duty" miniatures the one by Nigel Cliffe and Peter
Clarkof the 2mm association (model trains) looks pretty good.
Try

 http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/fonly/fonlypt1.html




From jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:11:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Joseph Baccellieri <jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 3 AT Collets
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:21:07 -0700
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Hello to all,

I am the happy owner of a 9"X18" Logan Lathe I am extremely pleased with
the condition and quality of this machine.  I am especially happy that
Scott Logan is available for parts and support.  My question is how
expensive are 3 AT collets and are they available?  What is the largest
capacity they come in? Can the lathe be modified to accept the more
common 5C collets?

Thanks for the help.

	Joe.


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:11:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:50:19 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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rebeccas@fay.infi.net (Rebecca or Jim Schwitters) wrote:
>Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> wrote:
>
>>Just got a letter from Metal Lathe Accessories touting their new filing
>>machine kit.  Saw one at NAMES and liked it very much.  Bout $100 U.S.
>>for the kit.
>
>>Gonna get me one so I have yet another machine to suck up bench space.
>
>>Best regards,
>
>>Mike Rehmus
>
>I met Andy Lofquist, the owner of Metal Lathe Accessories, two years
>ago.  I made the original wooden patterns for his die filer kit to his
>specifications in exchange for a set of castings.  I built a prototype
>from the first castings produced and like it very much.  It's an
>excellent design, easy to build (I think), and performs very well.  It
>runs very smoothly and quietly and does a good jub of filing.
>
>Jim Schwitters


Anybody have an address or phone number for Metal Lathe 
Accessories?  Is it in the FAQ?

Reg Barron
>




From tedv@ftn.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news.cais.net!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!ftn.net!news
From: Ted Devey <tedv@ftn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:14:56 -0700
Organization: ftn Internet
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I suspect that Grizzly has an agreement with Busy Bee in Canada because 
Busy Bee now has some machine tools with the Grizzly label on them. Since 
Busy stocks Grizzly stuff, There is obviously some agreement between 
them about sending catalogs to Canada. Grizzly prices in Canada are out 
of this world!

Ted



From steves@emailaddress.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.mnsinc.com!usenet
From: "Steve Stallings" <steves@emailaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: for sale: Harrison 17"x80" lathe
Date: 23 Sep 1996 15:37:29 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
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The following is posted for a friend unfamiliar with newsgroups.
I have seen this lathe and it is in showroom condition, having
never been used in an industrial setting.


FOR SALE:

Harrison model 450 17"x80" metal lathe. Purchased new in 1991 by retiree 
for in home use. Complete with 12" 6 jaw Pratt Burnerd set true chuck, 
12" 4 jaw Yuasa chuck, center driver plate, Aloris CA tool post with 5 tool

holders, follower rest, 5 position crosslide stop, live center, dead
centers, 
small and large drill chucks with morse 5 adapters, wrenches, change gears,

and Skyhook for the Aloris post. Everything is like new. Complete package 
lists for over $36,000.  First $16,000 takes it all. More information and
gifs 
available. 

Contact Blake626@Aol.Com

Posted by
steves@emailaddress.com



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:12:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Machine oil
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:14:56 GMT
Lines: 46


My Myford manual suggests SAE30 detergent motor oil.  My old workshop was 
only 300 feet from the Victoria waterfront, unheated, and damp at times.  
I oiled down the entire lathe with the same oil used for lube.  There was 
never any rust.  Last year, after 25 or more years of use, I stripped the 
saddle for cleaning.  The saddle was fine.  The ways are only slightly worn.
There is no shake, the saddle is just a bit tighter at the tailstock end.
There are a few small pits where the felt wiper sat, while I underwent 
cancer treatments, but this was caused by soluble oil.


In a previous article, russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) says:

>In article <3246F0C3.66@cc.com>, Steven O. Smith <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>>Could someone give a quick explanation of which oils are used where?
>>Jonathan has given a good start, differentiating sliding surfaces vs.
>>spindles. What about hand wheels where there is a little oil port to oil
>>the screw? Any significant differences between mills and lathes? What
>>kinds of problems develop using plain old motor oil? 
>>
>>I don't mind buying the right lubricants, but I'm not sure which they
>>are!
>
>Check what the manufacturer suggests, and follow that.  If you can't 
>get a manual, ask here and someone will likely have your machine and
>can help you out.
>
>On mine the manual has a couple of pages giving the oiling points,
>frequency and the oil types to use.  Basically, it's all a
>lightweight spindle oil (about 10 wt) except for the ways and way
>wipers (about 30 wt way oil - specially sticky).  Both are available
>from MSC (Manhatten Supply Company, but I don't think they use the
>full name anymore - 800-645-7270) in gallon quantities for something
>about $10/gallon.  I use the spindle oil for most bearings and the
>way oil for the ways on my lathe, mill and shaper.  
>
>-- 
>Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com
>
>                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs Inches for modeling
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:22:11 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: Frank Kerfoot <f.kerfoot@att.com>

I can see where the "inch" system is great for scale modelling of 
originals which measured in feet and inches, but not metric originals.  
No real trick to converting metric to metric 1/8th size, either, but 
metric 1/8th size into inches!!! not me!  Depends on the original, I 
guess.


From soapy@ols.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: J C Ayers <soapy@ols.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CHEMICAL COLORING ALUMINUM
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:53:23 -0700
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I Have some aluminum mugs that I want to color in a small area without
going to the anodized approach. Anyone have a way to chemically color
the surface - even if not permanently ??


From Marlin.Cohrs@UCHSC.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marlin.Cohrs@UCHSC.edu (Marlin Cohrs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help with refinish
Date: 23 Sep 1996 19:08:55 GMT
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I sure could use some help mfrom you folks with some knowledge of surface 
teatments.  I purchased an old lapidary machine where the finish was 
deteriorating and rusting.  The machine is basically a semi inclosed 
arbor with 8" grinding/sanding wheels which are kept cool and lubricated
with water.  I assumed that I needed to remove the old finish and the 
rust, no small task given the inticate joins of the sheet metal.  I used 
paint stripper, then sand blasted, and then becuse the sand blasting left 
a very rough texture, sanded or used abrasives on as much as possible.  
They beast (about 36"x18"x 12" or so) still had some rust in the deep 
pits, so I used a phosphoric acid, KF, & organic solvet to get the rest 
of the rust.  It worked great on the small pieces, but on the body, by
the time i coated and rinsed one side, the other had already re-rusted,
although with a very thin surface rust. 

At this point I plan to sand blast it and prime with auto body primer and 
coat it with hammermil(sp?) hammer tone finish.

Any thoughts on - how to avoid the rust?
		- do I need to worry about the courseness of the sand 
blast or any residue from the slica sand?
		- is my choice of paints reasonable?
		- why did I start the project in the first place?

Thanks
Marlin Cohrs
Marlin.Cohrs@UCHSC.edu



From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 9" Chinese lathes headstock mod for alignment
Date: 24 Sep 1996 01:36:08 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (Not a U.S. Government Agency)
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I have one of those Taiwanese 9X20 inch lathes (Grizzly) similar to the one
described by Peter Nolan in the September 1996 issue of HSM.  I don't like
the way the headstock is aligned with the bed either.  On page 23, photo 2
shows the bottom of the headstock.  Photo 4 shows how it sits on the lathe.
 I was wondering about using my mill/drill to machine an alignment V-groove
as Frank McLean does as described in the article on page 41 of the same
magazine.  I was considering machining the slot shown on the right side of
photo 2 (pg. 23) parallel to the headstock spindle.  (Setup for this would
be undeniably tricky for a novice like me.)  Then, I would somehow secure a
strip of brass in the slot.  Finally, I would cut a 90 degree V-groove to
fit over the rear V on the lathe bed.

The slot is 1/4" deep, about 6 inches long.  Any suggestions?  (Yeah, I
know, "buy a better lathe".)
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


From skarsaune@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: skarsaune@aol.com (Skarsaune)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tailstock turrets - any opionions?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:09:12 -0400
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  I've been looking for ways to reduce tool-change time on low volume
parts on 
my manual lathe, and one thing I saw in a Grizzly Imports ad and also in
the
Penn Tool catalog was a beast called a Tailstock turret - basically a 6
position
round turret mounted on a Morse Taper shank.
  Any body have any experience with one of these? Are they worthwhile?
My main concern would be the indexing accuracy from one tool to the next.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck


From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:05:27 GMT
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PnP Nolan <pnpnolan@aol.com> wrote in article
<523p15$ggj@newsbf02.news.aol.com>...
> In article <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
> writes:
> 
> >You will very pleased to learn then that the standard metric pipe thread
> >is BSP (British Standard Pipe) and it actually isn't a round number of
> >inches or  mm.
> >
> You might also check out ACME threads for a Metric counterpart. <g>
>

As an engineer, I have suffered through several years worth of applied math
classes where we used both English and metric units.  In the days before
the hand-held "scientific" calculator (days I'm glad to say I don't
remember), the metric system really made sense.  Now, with calculators that
will do the conversions for you, I don't really think it matters very much
which system is used.  I've used both systems.

One thing I would like to point out, though, is that when it comes to
computers, they "think" in powers of 2, not 10.  So, what would be easier
for a computer to handle, 64ths of an inch or 1000ths of a meter?

-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


 


From skarsaune@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: skarsaune@aol.com (Skarsaune)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pleasant ENCO experience
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:13:32 -0400
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  It was with great trepidation that I approached the local Enco outlet,
having
read horror stories on r.c.m for months.  My only experience with them had
been
over the phone and wasn't wonderful either.  But I had to have a bandsaw
and they
had the best price on the little 4"x6" jobs.  Plus I wanted to look at the
rotary 
tables.
  What a pleasant surprise!  The clerk was helpful, practically jovial,
they had what
I wanted in stock, I was in and out in 10 minutes.
  The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations posted
by 
others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
legs, and
get a good blade.  It's been cutting up 12L14 and 4150 barstock since the 
afternoon I got it home.
  I heartily second the advice previously posted - go to the outlet and
take what
they have in stock.  My bad experience was with a much delayed phone
order,
similar to previous complainants.

Chuck


From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shipping Costs
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:04:57 -0700
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Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> > >I just shipped a mill from California to Colorado, and thought it
> > would
> > >be useful to share the info gleaned.
> Here's the follow up report:
> 
> I shipped a Van Norman #12 Universal Mill from Pasadena, CA to Loveland,
> CO via broker. $500 for 1850 pounds/one pallet. I talked to a broker in
> Denver, but I ended up going with the broker who handles all of our
> personell moves at work.
> 
> Our broker at work cautioned me about no insurance on used machines. He
> also had a driver available who he had worked with for years and was
> reliable. What do you expect him to say, but it was a better
> recommendation than the guy picked out of the phone book.
> 
> The machine arrived in excellent shape, on a North American Van Lines
> truck. It worked out very well.

....The other side of the broker's job that shippers don't often see. is 
finding "backhauls" for empty trucks; we might suppose that the driver or 
owner-operator of the truck that delivered your machine had delivered a 
load in Pasadena and wanted to avoid deadheading to his wife and family 
in, say, St. Joseph, Missouri...a $500 load to Lovejoy CO paid for the 
fuel home...the alternative being to lay over and wait for his company to 
find him a load going toward home.  Most owner-operators use brokers to 
this purpose....The down-side may be that an individual owner-operator 
not leased to a major company (such as North American, which I believe is 
owned by the Norfolk-Southern Railroad) does not have the company 
reputation to uphold, thus a shipment may not be handled as 
carefully..and most shop machinery is bulky and top heavy...

				Jack



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy7nD8.G80@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <3246C2BB.6F9@ix.netcom.com> <526m5d$b0m@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3246F0C3.66@cc.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 00:15:08 GMT
Lines: 27

In article <3246F0C3.66@cc.com>, Steven O. Smith <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>Could someone give a quick explanation of which oils are used where?
>Jonathan has given a good start, differentiating sliding surfaces vs.
>spindles. What about hand wheels where there is a little oil port to oil
>the screw? Any significant differences between mills and lathes? What
>kinds of problems develop using plain old motor oil? 
>
>I don't mind buying the right lubricants, but I'm not sure which they
>are!

Check what the manufacturer suggests, and follow that.  If you can't 
get a manual, ask here and someone will likely have your machine and
can help you out.

On mine the manual has a couple of pages giving the oiling points,
frequency and the oil types to use.  Basically, it's all a
lightweight spindle oil (about 10 wt) except for the ways and way
wipers (about 30 wt way oil - specially sticky).  Both are available
>from  MSC (Manhatten Supply Company, but I don't think they use the
full name anymore - 800-645-7270) in gallon quantities for something
about $10/gallon.  I use the spindle oil for most bearings and the
way oil for the ways on my lathe, mill and shaper.  

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Re-gringding lathe bed
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy7nwF.GB5@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com> <51u68p$1b39@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <jesw-2309961626440001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 00:26:38 GMT
Lines: 29

In article <jesw-2309961626440001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>,
James Wilkins <jesw@mitre.org> wrote:
>I've used a big horizontal milling machine to recut a well-worn lathe. It
>didn't do a perfect job but it took out the sag in the ways and there
>wasn't much left to remove by hand. The biggest problem is that the half
>nuts are no longer aligned with the leadscrew. 

I think that the current trick is to recut/grind the ways (or cut and
scrape as you did), then recut the V ways in the saddle, headstock
and tailstock and use Turcite (the Teflon bearing stuff mentioned
here) to rebuild the saddle and tailstock to proper height, gluing
and scraping shims into the headstock to reset its original height.
The Turcite will give a nice smooth action to the saddle and
tailstock, and shimming (with glue) and scraping the head restores
it's alignment with the lathe bed (if that's critical - it might be
easier to lower the hardware on the tail the amount removed from the
bed at the headstock).  

>Lindsay's book Machine Tool Reconditioning tells how to test and rescrape
>the lathe parts by hand.

Absolutely.  Some articles have been printed in _Home Shop Machinist_
and collected in "Projects Two" from them that gives a good view of the
rebuilding process, including the use of Turcite.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Diamond disks for Dremel & carbide sharpening.
Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:21:59 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (Not a U.S. Government Agency)
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I bought a couple 1" diamond-coated grinding disks for a Dremel type tool. 
I was quite pleased to find that I could repair chipped carbide tools with
this.
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


From ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: 22 Sep 1996 18:40:43 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
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Reply-To: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu


A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric
acid as recommended by Hiraoka in his silver soldguide-
lines.  I received a number of replies including: swimming pool
chemical "Sodium Bisulfate" which is used to lower pool ph.
   Problem #1:  I bought the chemical, but there is no descript-
ion of how to achieve a 10% acid solution.  I guessed and used
6.4 ounces (volume) with water to make a half gallon.  A theo-
retical 10% of 64 ounces.  Caused some bubbles but didn't seem
to do much to the metal.  I suspect this solution may be very
very weak....
   Problem #2: I also found an auto supply that sells battery
acid.  Trouble is they don't list the strength of the acid.  The
precautions on the box are pretty severe...I suspect that the
acid may be way over 10% solution.
   SOOOOOO..... If you actually know how to make a 10% solution
using swimming pool conditioner (sodium bisulfate) OR how to make
a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.
   PLEASE no guessing...but if you do know I'd sure appreciate
your advice!
   Regards, Chet Roberts
P.S. We've had heavy rain...phone line connections are pretty
noisey...please forgive any gibberish....


From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 19:22:42 -0700
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On 23 Sep 1996, Kurt Rieder wrote:

>
> Well... that might explain a use for just a very few of the letter and
> number drills.  What about the rest of them ?  Filling the gaps doesn't
> nearly begin to explain it.... 1/128 inch fractional drill stemps might
> have done it better.  .................
>
> It would seem that the creators of letter and number drill series
> were marching to a different drummer.  What's the rational behind the
> step size in each series ?  It's obvious in both inch and metric drills.
>
>
  I think the number and letter drills are a geometric progression, where
each drill is the same percentage larger than the previous.

Useful if you were making drawing plates for wire, where you would want
the same amount of reduction of the wire.

Wire gauges are such that the diameter doubles every 6 numbers ie 6 gauge
wire is twice the diameter of 12 gauge.
					Cheers,



From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:49:05 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <527i71$aum@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <ncpw3ivzii.fsf@axel.vigra.com> <32446150.5241@erols.com>
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Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote:
>Dion Hollenbeck wrote:
>> 
>> >> Jay McMunn writes:
>> 
>> JM> A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a
>>
>
>> Don't let anyone raise the "machine gun" ruse, a gatling gun is not
>> one.  However, without a FFL (Federal Firearms License) and one of the
>> proper class for *manufacturing* it is illegal to build a firearm of
>> any kind other than black powder. 
>
>Sorry Dion, but you are wrong.  You may build any non NFA fire arm you
>want, provided you may legally own a firearm.  The only
>tricky part is that legally, you may not sell or give the firearm to
>anyone, ever.
>
>-----
>Chuck Harris
>cfharris@erols.com
Chuck, what happens to this gun when one dies, can it be enherited? Cheers Bob



From johnd@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Low Cost Lathes (was Re: emco maier ... (was..)
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 16:56:45 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 24
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xeno357@ix.netcom.com(Max ben-Aaron) wrote:

>High their:

>Are'nt youall re-inventing the wheel?  Wasn't that the (low cost lathe
>using available extrusions &c) idea behind the Taig lathe?

You mean the Taig will turn a 7" - at the widest part - casting and
cut threads?  

Obviously if available extrusions will make such a lathe inexpensive I
agree, lets use them.   And if you have an idea to use available
extrusions then post suppliers and dimensions of what would work at
the same time as the suggestion to to use extrusions.

John.


Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From klaas@uniface.nl Fri Sep 27 16:12:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!surfnet.nl!sun4nl!Leiden.NL.net!Utrecht.NL.net!knoware.nl!usenet
From: C++ Freak <klaas@uniface.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Graphite Crucibles......
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 15:55:41 +0200
Organization: Knoware Internet
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <324696DD.15D7@uniface.nl>
References: <521kbi$5ob@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
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To: "John P.Beckley" <ch270@FreeNet.Carleton.CA>

John P.Beckley wrote:
> 
> Need reliable soarce for # 6 and #8 graphite crucibles for casting
> bronze........
Try a jewelry supply shop or otherwise a statue foundry will tell
you where they can get their crucibles.
Check the yellow pages for it.

Klaas


From kwalloys@worldchat.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!nntp.coast.net!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!winternet.com!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!news1.worldchat.com!worldchat.com
From: kwalloys@worldchat.com (James Whitred)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Supplier of small quantites of metal
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 21:04:50 -0400
Organization: Metal Supermarkets (K-W)
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <09-24-1996.657@worldchat.com>
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Hi,
   I'm new to the net and to news groups so forgive me if I am 
overstepping protocol and etiquette.  I have a  small company which 
specializes in small quanties of just about any kind of metal except 
precious metals;  any shape, any size, and, if it fits on a courier, we 
ship almost anywhere.  You can E mail me at  kwalloys@worldchat.com and 
I'll try to help.

PS.  Who or what is MSC?

PS.  Another supplier for metal and woodworking machines in Canada at 
least is a company called Toolex.  Their  quality, particularly of the 
imports,  is a bit better.


From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chuck Accuracy ?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 01:08:46 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 19
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <09960821180452.OUI72.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>Only problem with this is that it doesn't have a through hole.  The
>original "Headstock Chuck" did.  
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/21/96 18:10
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>

   I have not looked at one this size so I don't know but I would think
you should be able to drill a hole in it fairly easy.

                                       Hope this helps
                                              LWC


From lwc1220@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com (LWC1220)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge Welding, what's the secret?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 01:18:47 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <32455FB4.233A@teclink.net>, Ed Kreyling <kreyling@teclink.net>
writes:

>I have just started in hobby blacksmithing.  I completed construction of
>my first forge (made from a wheelbarrow, handcrank fan, fire bricks and
>clay).  I have made a few simple tools (punches, tongs, hardys and
>lantern stands).  I tried my first attempt at welding, which failed
>miserably.  I have not been able to find a book or article that explains
>the technique well enough for me to understand.   I bent a piece of 1/2
>inch sq stock back over itself about 3 inches.  Then I heated both
>layers until it was sparkling, placed it on the anvil and attempted to
>hammer them into one layer.  What I ended up with were 2 very thin
>layers.  What is missing?  Thanks for the help.
>
>Ed K.
>
>

  You need a flux to put on the steel. While I've seen several flux
recipes the main ingredient in all of them is borax. Also from what you
said above you may be getting it to hot I'm not sure. I tried to wled this
way once and didn't succeed, but that was before I knew about the flux and
I have not tried since. I don't remember where to find one of the
references to this at the moment but I'm sure sombody else out there can
give you better advice on this than I can. But if nobody else does E-mail
me and I will do what I can.

                                Hope this helps
                                   LWC


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!spool.news.idt.net!news
From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source of stainless  U-channel
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:18:34 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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I've looked at the sources I know of.  Anybody know who sells 1/2" U 
channel in 321 stainless about .030" and up to 8 ft. in length?

   So far no luck locally.


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chaos.crhc.uiuc.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!latcha
From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 12:07:44 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960924120727.28227A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
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Scott: AMEN.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 24 Sep 1996, Scott Logan wrote:

> 
> 
> In article <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From skarsaune@aol.com 
> (Skarsaune), the following was written:
> > The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations 
> > posted by 
> > others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
> > legs, and
> > get a good blade. 
> 
> Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
> to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
> 
> Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
> THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!
> 
> If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
> business long ago.
> 
> After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
> that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
> received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
> would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
> pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.
> 
> If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
> quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
>  We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.
> 
> <rant mode off>
>  
> 
> --
>  ----------------------------------------
>  Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
>  09/24/96 07:35
>  http://www.loganact.com
> 
> 
> 
> 


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip56.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Diamond disks for Dremel & carbide sharpening.
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 04:24:09 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <felice.241.32476269@pioneer.net>
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In general, use some sort of coolant with these, as the
nickel bond can create carcinogenic dust, and I think
carbide isn't that great either. The tool will last a lot longer
as well. (But don't electrocute yourself either with a flood
of water on the dremel)



In article <01bba9bf$30f79440$55263ece@radix.wwnet.com> "w.j.ward" 
<radix@wwnet.com> writes:>From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
>Subject: Diamond disks for Dremel & carbide sharpening.
>Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:21:59 GMT

>I bought a couple 1" diamond-coated grinding disks for a Dremel type tool. 
>I was quite pleased to find that I could repair chipped carbide tools with
>this.
>-- 
>(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
>And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
>W.J.Ward



From mcnair@bnr.ca Fri Sep 27 16:12:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!swrinde!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-res.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcarh8ac.bnr.ca!bmdhh222.bnr.ca!mcnair
From: mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: 23 Sep 1996 18:24:29 GMT
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In article <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net>, A@concentric.net (john) writes:
 
|> The universal law on cutting tools is, if it isn't made in the USA, it isn't a 
|> cutting tool. Chinese or Polish drills arn't worth having even as a bad joke.
|> The Silver and Demming drills I use are made by Viking Drill in St. Paul MN. 
 
Typical USA-centric view of the world. I got quite a few nice drills made
in Sheffield England where they were making drills before there was a USA !
(You're right about E.Europe and the far East though).


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!news.aimnet.com!news
From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forge Welding, what's the secret?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 05:32:46 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
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Ed Kreyling wrote:
>>  I tried my first attempt at welding, which failed
>>miserably.

Two other tricks needed...

1. ALWAYS work in a dark area so you can judge the colors better.

2. You need a CLEAN, Deep fire...that means starting with a clean
forge, starting a new fire, etc.  After a day's ashes accumulate, they
just coat the molten flux and make it harder to weld (if not impossible
 - an old trick to make a blacksmith cuss is to put a copper penny in
the fire; the impurities that this adds to the fire makes a weld
impossible).

When you add the borax, it will "foam" up -- don't dispair, that's just
the result of the water of crystalation in the borax being driven out. 
Wait a few moments and it will turn into glass.  It's better to
sprinkle the flux onto a freshly wire-brushed piece of hot metal than
to rely on previously cleaned metal staying that way.

GOOD LUCK.

JK


From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: 24 Sep 1996 05:02:39 GMT
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James Wilkins (jesw@mitre.org) wrote:
: In article <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

: > I used to gap the points in my cars with my thumbnail!  
: > 

: How crude of you! The correct setting is the thickness of a matchbook
: cover. Then you set the static timing with a precision test instrument
: made from a tail light socket and two alligator clips.

On old GM products that had an adjustment you could make while the 
engine was running we always turned it in (less gap I think) 'till it 
died and then backed off 1/2 turn.  Seemed to work pretty well.




From laveryt@mail.myriad.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsbuffer.myriad.net!news.myriad.net!usenet
From: laveryt@mail.myriad.net (Bill Averyt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Engine lathe gib question.
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 02:36:15 GMT
Organization: DigiPhone Corporation, Bryan/College Station Texas 409-693-8885
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I recently purchased at auction a 14" South Bend "Nordic" engine lathe.  The cross-slide gib is missing.  The
manufacturer shipped me a new gib ($530), but it was the wrong size.  They say that was the only one they have for that
machine.  This is a difficult piece for me to make in my shop.  Is there such a thing as a "generic, cut to fit" gib?  I
would appreciate any and all comments. 



From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Catalog
Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:33:37 GMT
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Ted Devey <tedv@ftn.net> wrote in article <3246D3A0.296E@ftn.net>...
> I suspect that Grizzly has an agreement with Busy Bee in Canada because 
> Busy Bee now has some machine tools with the Grizzly label on them. Since

> Busy stocks Grizzly stuff, There is obviously some agreement between 
> them about sending catalogs to Canada. Grizzly prices in Canada are out 
> of this world!
> 
> Ted
> 
>
Hmm.  Frank McLean writes about Busy Bee in the September HSM (pg. 35).  I
wonder if *they* will send a catalog to the US?  Another source for
Canadians might be Production Tool Supply (1-800-581-8665).  Showrooms are
in the Detroit area.
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


 


From lookma@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!news
From: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Custom Etching Serv. Correction
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:27:34 -0700
Organization: Look Ma! Custom Etching Service
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32475526.574B@sedona.net>
References: <3246C992.2719@sedona.net>
Reply-To: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:14565 rec.crafts.pottery:2694 rec.crafts.glass:3298 rec.crafts.metalworking:35367

Correcting the URL, sorry to have to repost :)
> 
> Look Ma! can do your specialty etching on glass, metals, and ceramics.
> One piece or hundreds, affordable prices and fast service!
> 
> See our web page at:
> http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
> 
> You'll be glad you stopped by!
> 
> --
> ***************************************
> Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
> lookma@sedona.net
> http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
> ***************************************

-- 
***************************************
Doug Von Gausig
Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
lookma@sedona.net
http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
***************************************


From rmorris@alaska.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmorris@alaska.net (Dick Morris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Well.. The blood factor
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 05:50:22 GMT
Organization: Internet Alaska Inc.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <527t8e$2l9@byatt.alaska.net>
References: <DxBCKn.41w@cfanews.harvard.edu> <Dxu8Br.wD@bbxrbk.basis.com> <51nuet$r77@news1.svc> <Dxxqsu.By6@bbxrbk.basis.com> <51s6iv$ms3@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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For the past several years, when I return to the house from the shop,
I always pointedly count my fingers in front of my wife. If I come
back with the same number that I went down with, it was a successfull
night.

Dick Morris



From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum cleaner motors
Date: 24 Sep 1996 01:52:46 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (Not a U.S. Government Agency)
Lines: 45
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Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com> wrote in article 
...
> >Then I remembered a defunct powerhead in my storage room.
> >The motor is still good, is about the size of a sewing machine motor,
but 
> >with much more power & higher RPM.  The only downside, is the plastic 
> >housing.  I am going to try to find a second one to repower my Boley 
> >lathe, as the present motor is too wimpy.  The motor would be almost
ideal
> >for a Unimat.  It came from a Sears cannister model, with power head, of

> >course.  I found out years ago, that it realy is a Hoover.  So now you 
> >all know what to look for!  I tried it on a sewing machine speed
control, 
> >and it works fine.
> >
> >Thanks to all who suggested this idea.
> >-- 
> >Steve.
> >
> >**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS
************************
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reminder!  I saved one of these from
> the same type of vacuum recently.  May make an 
> independent power feed for the Unimat or maybe a 
> sanding disk and table.
> 
> 
> Reg Barron
> 
>
Interesting.  I just "recycled" one of these from a neighbor's land-fill
contribution.  I was thinking of using it on my Grizzly 9x20" lathe for
cutting threads.  I was thinking about attaching it below the main drive
motor, and use a belt to the motor pulley for a very slow speed.
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


 


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:12:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 04:38:54 GMT
Lines: 33


Model Engineer Magazine also has plans for homemade lathes.
During World War 2, Popular Mechanics Press published a book, called " 
Forty Power Tools You Can Make" witha mini lathe in it.



In a previous article, barronr@mail.erols.com (Reginald barron) says:

>keithclark@kw.igs.net (Keith J. Clark) wrote:
>>I am looking for blueprints for a miniature lathe and milling machine 
>>that I could make myself.  Anyone know of a source?
>>
>>Keith
>>
>>keithclark@kw.igs.net
>>
>
>
>For a really low tech homemade (but very clever) one for
>"light duty" miniatures the one by Nigel Cliffe and Peter
>Clarkof the 2mm association (model trains) looks pretty good.
>Try
>
> http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/fonly/fonlypt1.html
>
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:39:29 GMT
Organization: BuffNET
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <526si2$oij@buffnet2.buffnet.net>
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Charles Snell (crsnell@interlog.com) wrote:

: If you look at a drill and tap chart you will find that there are several 
: letter drills used with standard size taps, hence the reason for their 
: existance. Yes, the letter and number drills fill in the gaps between the 
: fractional drills, and are where you have to go if you want to drill for 
: a close clearance, etc.

Well... that might explain a use for just a very few of the letter and
number drills.  What about the rest of them ?  Filling the gaps doesn't
nearly begin to explain it.... 1/128 inch fractional drill stemps might
have done it better.  And... look at the conflicts...
    1/4 inch and letter E are both 0.2500
    1/32 and #68.... 3/32 and #42.... 9/64 and #28.... 9/32 and K....
    etc, and many more, are 0.0002 or less apart in size... not enough 
    to be of any significance.... not to me, anyway.
It would seem that the creators of letter and number drill series
were marching to a different drummer.  What's the rational behind the
step size in each series ?  It's obvious in both inch and metric drills.
    


     


From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:12:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!world!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 17:49:06 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
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Message-ID: <jesw-2309961353400001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl>, charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles
Stroom) wrote:

> On this USA/metric topic, has someone already asked what the
> convenience is of a lathe, which is in USA units (1 rev == 0.1 inch),
> but than the handle scales are subdivided in hundreds.  What if I need
> to turn 15/16", or even 5/8"?  I believe most imperial lathes
> are like that, admittedly I know only 2 :-)

Yes, the two systems don't play well together. 

Fractions are for carpenters. I don't believe that fractions are used much
in mechanical engineering.  Free wall charts, the backs of rulers, and
almost every drill index list the conversions, so you don't have to
remember them.

When I was a draftsman, the rule was that all dimensions were to be
decimal. One old standard is that fractional dimensions are only used if
the tolerance is looser than the 0.020" of a 2-place decimal. 

Shafts and pulleys come in only a few simple fractional sizes like 1/2",
5/8", or 3/4". If you are boring out a bearing for fractionally
dimensioned shafting, the running clearance will change the decimal value
anyway. Measure shaft, look up clearance, add to get bore size, all in
thousandths or tenth-thousandths. 

The long string of decimals doesn't really matter - it gets lost in
tolerances and clearances. 

What is REALLY annoying is an import milling machine where the table screw
pitch is sooo helpfully 1/8 inch. Counting turns: 0.125 0.250 0.375 0.500
0.625 0.750 0.875 1.000 1.125 etc.


From john@siu.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 14:12:51 -0500
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 24
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On 20 Sep 1996, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

> 
> 	The classic TV news mistake is where they say "a 15,000 ton (nnnnnn
> 	metric Tonne) ship has run aground on a reef".  The shipping ton
> 	is a measure of VOLUME, related to the cargo capacity - i.e. how
> 	many tons the ship can carry. Converting that is a nonsense.
> 
> Well, sort of. What it started out as was the weight of the
> water it displaced when fully laden (before sinking, of course).
> 

Well, no, not really.  Early on, french wine was shipped to england in
large barrels called "tuns."  One of these "tuns" occupied about 100 
cubic feet.  Ships were "measured" by the Admiralty according to how
many of these "tuns" they could hold.  Later on, they used the cubic
foot equivalent and counted some of the odd corners they couldn't get
a barrel into.  Ship "tonnage" was always a measurement of volume,
not of weight, and while it may correspond roughly with displaced water,
it had more to do originally with the hold capacity than with the size
of the ship.

John



From aolney@accessone.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.accessone.com!news
From: "ANDY OLNEY" <aolney@accessone.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: are there any foundries in Oregon?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 04:29:50 GMT
Organization: AccessOne
Lines: 11
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There are several foundries in Seattle. North Star Steel castings makes
high strength steel castings for my company at $1.70 per pound and up
depending on quantity and complexity of the part.

Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter <felice@pioneer.net> wrote in article
<felice.237.3245F189@pioneer.net>...
> With all this talk of having patterns made, and iron components cast,
> is there anyone in Oregon(or anywhere NW) who will cast from
> my patterns? How much does one pay for this service, if it's even
available?



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for metalworking FAQ
Message-ID: <1996Sep23.143854.25087@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Sep 96 14:38:54 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <522nbh$8k7@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, luis101@aol.com (Luis101) writes:
|>Hello all...
|>
|>I'm looking for the FAQ, could someone please help me out?

anonymous ftp to plains.uwyo.edu in the metal director.  And/or:

http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

Jim


From janders@oro.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!news.frontiernet.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: are there any foundries in Oregon?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 03:45:13 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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>   felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) writes:
>  With all this talk of having patterns made, and iron components cast,
>  is there anyone in Oregon(or anywhere NW) who will cast from
>  my patterns? How much does one pay for this service, if it's even available?
>  
>>>>

You want cast iron, or cast steel? I don't know about cast iron foundries out
here, except for Knight's Foundry, which was tottering on dissolution a while back.
If you want cast steel, there is a foundry in Grass Valley, CA that does it. 
I knew they were around, but just found out the other day that the actual foundry is
right in downtown Grass Valley, a mere block from city hall! If you want cast steel, let
me know and I'll post the number and address. He's not real thrilled about one off
work, but is willing to discuss it on a case by case basis. 

 Jon Anderson


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Fri Sep 27 16:12:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: 24 Sep 1996 06:25:25 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
: On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
: about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
: months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1. 
: I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
: work.  Anyone else try this?

I want to point out he was using those blades in a milling machine, with
a very hefty arbor he made for the purpose.  You don't say, but I am sure
that if you try to cut heavy steel with one of these blades in a regular
circular saw, there will be a big mess if you're lucky, and a trip to the
hospital if you're not!

Even in a milling machine, the blades have a tendency to shatter, and
without a guard, there could be flying pieces.  The teeth might have
a tendency to dig in, and so very strong work holding would be a good
idea.  The surface speed for cutting steel would be pretty low for a
cutter of that diameter.


From ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca Fri Sep 27 16:12:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ac258@ccn.cs.dal.ca (Harvey Freeman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 08:59:22 GMT
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Greg Lewis (gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU) wrote:
: In article <511qe2$gou@nntp.ucs.ubc.ca>,
: Tim Shoppa <shoppa@alph02.triumf.ca> wrote:
: >Really?  Which decade are you living in?  GM began converting over
: >their auto production to metric in the late 70's and by now most
: >all of their automobiles are 99.9% metric.  The only non-metric
: >thread on my '92 car, to my knowledge, is the spark plug.
: >
: >Tim. (shoppa@triumf.ca)



: And on my Ford F250, some fasteners are metric and some are inch, and
: there seems no logic to it. One of the alternator mount bolts is inch,
: one is metric. Go figure....

About ten years ago A Snap-on-Tools salesman told me that when the car 
plants went metric they converted one side of the assembly line to metric 
first and left the other side Imperial.  This meant that one side of the 
bell housing, as an example, was put together with metric bolts and the 
other half with Imperial.  They used everything up before totally 
converting.  The mechanic at the first repair was the one to throw all 
the bolts he did not like away and change to a uniform pattern. The 
result may be either system and not match the next identical car repaired 
that day.

: ___________________________________________________________________
: Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
: Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
: Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
:      and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
: CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010

: Don't worry... it's only a flesh wound.







--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvey Freeman, Arch.  !    Home of the Precision 50 Table Saw Fence
123 School Ave.        !    1-902-445-2832 (R)
Halifax, Nova Scotia.  !    1-902-429-4100 (W)
Canada, B3N 2E1        !    1-902-423-3063 (F)
______________________________________________________________________________

Precision 50 Table Saw Fence Page www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ac258/Precision_50.html
______________________________________________________________________________


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!iag.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Vacuum cleaner motors
Date: 23 Sep 1996 21:58:09 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
>
>I tested a very powerful motor ( 13.4 Amps. ), and found it useless for a 
>toolpost grinder.  Then I remembered a defunct powerhead in my storage room.
>The motor is still good, is about the size of a sewing machine motor, but 
>with much more power & higher RPM.  The only downside, is the plastic 
>housing.  I am going to try to find a second one to repower my Boley 
>lathe, as the present motor is too wimpy.  The motor would be almost ideal
>for a Unimat.  It came from a Sears cannister model, with power head, of 
>course.  I found out years ago, that it realy is a Hoover.  So now you 
>all know what to look for!  I tried it on a sewing machine speed control, 
>and it works fine.
>
>Thanks to all who suggested this idea.
>-- 
>Steve.
>
>**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************



Thanks for the reminder!  I saved one of these from
the same type of vacuum recently.  May make an 
independent power feed for the Unimat or maybe a 
sanding disk and table.


Reg Barron



From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
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Scott--I hope I'm not horning in here.

Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote:

> Scott,
> In all respect and with awe at your service, the reason we idiots buy
> all this crap is because
> 1) We have X amount of dollars, period.
> 2) It's cheaper  to fix a problem through service than
> through quality control (I am assuming this, and am writing
> a letter to JET to see if this is the case)

This is always false. There have been a lot of studies done about how
expensive it is to fix problems. It is always cheaper for the
manufacturer to make sure the problem does not occur than to fix the
problem later. If every one takes the attitude that they will fix the
problem at home, then the manufacturer has no reason to change their
practice.

Getting a problem fixed through causing the manufacturer to have better
quality control is admittedly a longer term solution. Folks who don't
complain are part of the problem.

An excellent example is the US automotive industry. The Japanese decided
a bunch of years ago to compete on quality. They can still sell cars for
equivalent money that have higher quality, despite recent American car
manufacturer's advances in quality. Their decision to focus on quality
still gives them an edge in manufacturing.
 
> So, the way I see it, I must challenge you, Scott.
> Go to Asia(or USA), have a respectable foundry do castings for you,
> ship them back to USA, assemble them in your factory, with your
> high level of quality control. Sell this lathe (mill, bandsaw) for no more
> that 20%over the Jet/ENCO/Harbor Freight price. Can this be done?
> Or even offer us a kit of asian castings and USA hardware, bearings etc.
> 
> Can you make a USA tool as inexpensively as a Asia tool?

You don't need to bring the manufacturing to the US to have a quality
machine. Wherever the machine is made, you have to have good, modern
manufacturing practice. This does not cost more, you just have to be
willing to do it. The extra effort to build quality into your products
is more than paid for by dramatically lower scrap rates in your
production line, let alone the benefits of satisfied customers. Lower
scrap rates in production is the tip of the iceberg.


-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From glennd@bdc.cirrus.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Logan opions
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 07:07:42 -0700
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I had an 11' Logan for a number of years. It is an excellent machine.
The ablility to still get parts with out selling the kids ands the
availability of Scott Logan in my mind make it a better chioce then the
South Bend


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: 23 Sep 1996 22:35:28 GMT
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rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
>Note: E-mailed *and* posted.
DELETED
>I've noticed that Sherline has a 4-jaw chuck that will fit these
>Unimats.  If you get a M12x1 tap you can make or adapt other tooling for
>the spindle.
You can also make tooling that fits in the spindle bore and held with
an 8-32 threaded rod and nut at the back.
DELETED
>:It also has the shaft to convert to a vertical mill, and a tooling 
>:plate with hold downs which fits on the cross slide.
>
>You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.  The only vertical
>feed is the uncalibrated quill feed, which has only about 1/2" of
>travel, and the unit just isn't rigid enough to use a standard milling
>cutter on anything much harder than soap.  The rods that form the bed
>will deflect visibly just from the pressure of your hand on the
>carriage.

I had the same sort of problems.  Had a fellow with some big
machines make up an adaption to give it a Z axis that allows the 
headstock to be cranked up and down.  Per the flexible ways:  one person
cut the machine in half, thus stiffening the ways by shortening.  Another 
method is to make up an aluminumdsm clamp that holds the bars together, 
and has screws thatpress against the cast bed - care is required here 
however.  Russ Tingey beefed up the cross slide by replacing one of the 
bars with one 3/8" thick.  

 It does work as a miniature drill press, though that limited
>quill travel can be quite restricting and often requires that you unlock
>and move the whole head in order to change the drill bit.

Z axis conversion solves that problem.  However, I have found the machine 
has a little too much torque for really small bits like #76-80.
>
>BTW, for metal work the low-speed attachment is a must.  (That's the
>idler pully next to the motor.  It was an option on early units; I
>believe it became standard later.)  I'm not aware of any decent variable
>speed motor that's a adequate substitute.
See earlier posts per sewing machine, vacuum motors etc.


Reg Barron


>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
>



From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 24 Sep 1996 21:41:40 GMT
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J.A.Harvey (jhre@ix.netcom.com) wrote:

: This "disposable thinking" bothers me. Are you saying that you are
: never going to use your lathe after the job at hand is done? I don't
: think so. I understand that sometimes we are in a position where we
: need something right away and settle for less than quality. But in the
: long run everything suffers. the quality of your work suffers due to
: the inferior tool it was made on, your reputation suffers because of
: the inferior product you produced etc.
I was building a motorcycle from scratch and had a certain budget to get
it done.  I subcontracted the welding for $200 rather than buy a welder
and used some favors to get the large milling and lathe work done.  I
thought I ended up with a useful lathe for the price.
: For $1000.00 you could have probably called Dave at Meridian or another
: machinery dealer and bought a used "good" lathe that would have
: outperformed the crappy import that you are now saddled with.
I did look - I could have bought a smaller second hand German lathe for
more money with less accessories - I could not  find what I would consider
a good lathe, like a Colchester for $1000 -besides I wouldn't be able to
get it down the stairs to the basement.

: Scott Logan is correct when he says that if we all demand better, we'll
: get it. It's hard to stay in business if no one buys your product. the
: stiff coming out of Asia ranges from pretty good for the money ( MSC )
: to downright criminal ( some of the early Shoptask machines were
: $1200.00 worth of scrap iron.)
I checked on this list before I bought the Grizzly and most responses
indicated that it was a useful buy.  I would really like to buy a Deckel
FP4NC for home use, BUT a)I can't figure out how to move it b)I don't
have the electrical power c)I need parts now not when I can afford it. If I
can't get the job done at all because I spent all my money on
equipment I'm in worse shape.  By this same rule one would only buy IBM
computers and Sears would only have "Best brands".  This is the reason MSC
is so good.  Multiple qualities -  if I want a special sized drill or tap
that I only use once - I'll buy the throwaway.  If I'm going into mass
production I'll buy the TiC coated version - but if not it is a waste of
money (ie resources) to buy more than you need to do a job. So - I don't
buy Mercedes- Benz cars - do you?







From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:12:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
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Before I owned a metal cutting band saw, I used circular saw blades to 
cut steel.  You have to run then slowly.  The lathe, in back gear is 
best, with a slow feed.  I made an arbour for the headstock, and  clamped 
the metal on the crosslide.  A HSS metal cutting blade, and a veneer 
blade were used.


In a previous article, radix@wwnet.com ("w.j.ward") says:

>On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
>about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
>months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1. 
>I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
>work.  Anyone else try this?
>
>I was also wondering about cutting single teeth off of the blade (actually
>wedges) an using them as cut-off tools on a lathe.  Haven't tried that one
>yet.
>-- 
>(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
>And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
>W.J.Ward
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Shipping Costs
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> >I just shipped a mill from California to Colorado, and thought it
> would
> >be useful to share the info gleaned.
Here's the follow up report:

I shipped a Van Norman #12 Universal Mill from Pasadena, CA to Loveland,
CO via broker. $500 for 1850 pounds/one pallet. I talked to a broker in
Denver, but I ended up going with the broker who handles all of our
personell moves at work. 

Our broker at work cautioned me about no insurance on used machines. He
also had a driver available who he had worked with for years and was
reliable. What do you expect him to say, but it was a better
recommendation than the guy picked out of the phone book.

The machine arrived in excellent shape, on a North American Van Lines
truck. It worked out very well.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From ljourdan@pratique.fr Fri Sep 27 16:12:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Louis JOURDAN <ljourdan@pratique.fr>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
	Re: Metric system in the USA?
	> I got used to having two sets of wrenches
	> years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly
	> well.....
	
	Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.
	Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric 
	system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric world 
	too.Peter Brooks wrote:
	
	> I got used to having two sets of wrenches
	> years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly
	> well.....
	
	Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.
	Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric 
	system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric world 
	too.
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 09:49:12 +0200
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Peter Brooks wrote:

>>I got used to having two sets of wrenches years ago when I had a British car and >>a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly well.....

>Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.
>Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric 
>system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric >world too.

Well, even in France, the birthplace of the metric system, bike wheel
sizes are given in inches. My Mercier mountain bike has 26 inches
wheels.

Even more curious indeed is the system used for car wheels and tyres. My
SAAB has 5.5 J 15 " wheels, which I interpret as
		diameter 15 inches
		Width 5.5 inches
and is fitted with 185/65 R15H tyres, which, I guess, means
		inner diameter 15 inches
		tyre width 185 mm
		ratio width/height 0.65

Questions :
	-	why using the british system to measure bike and car wheels ?
	-	are wheel diameter a round figure in inches or a round figure in
metric expressed in inches (like the computer diskettes : a 3 1/2
diskette is actually 90 mm wide) ?
	-	what system is used in USA to measure tyres ? Also a mix of metric
and english units ?


From lookma@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:12:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Doug Von Gausig <lookma@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Custom Etching Services Offered
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 10:32:02 -0700
Organization: Look Ma! Custom Etching Service
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:14570 rec.crafts.pottery:2697 rec.crafts.glass:3300 rec.crafts.metalworking:35387

Look Ma! can do your specialty etching on glass, metals, and ceramics.
One piece or hundreds, affordable prices and fast service!

See our web page at:
http:www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma

You'll be glad you stopped by!

-- 
***************************************
Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
lookma@sedona.net
http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
***************************************


From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:12:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: "semi steel"   what is it?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:28:29 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <jesw-2309961633020001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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> >I have several stakes that are marked "semi steel"
> >what is the composition of this metal?

> Steel "deoxidized" in this manner is called "semikilled".

It may be a mixture of scrap steel and cast iron.


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:12:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:36:17 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <09960824065243.OUI02.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <527kr2$vke@news.myriad.net>
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X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

In article <527kr2$vke@news.myriad.net>, From laveryt@mail.myriad.net 
(Bill Averyt), the following was written:
> shipped me a new gib ($530),

Is that solid gold!?!  If you can mail or fax me a sketch, I might be
able to help.

Scott Logan
Logan Actuator Co.
4956 N. Elston Ave.
Chicago, IL  60630-1782
312-736-6854 fax
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/24/96 07:35
 http://www.loganact.com




From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: 24 Sep 1996 02:19:09 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (Not a U.S. Government Agency)
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1. 
I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
work.  Anyone else try this?

I was also wondering about cutting single teeth off of the blade (actually
wedges) an using them as cut-off tools on a lathe.  Haven't tried that one
yet.
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


From adrianw@cassius.ee.usyd.EDU.AU Fri Sep 27 16:13:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: adrianw@cassius.ee.usyd.EDU.AU (Adrian Whichello)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs Inches for modeling
Date: 24 Sep 1996 23:19:06 GMT
Organization: Department of Electrical Engineering, Sydney University
Lines: 32
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In article <5279hi$a9e@test-sun.erols.com>,
Reginald barron  <barronr@mail.erols.com> wrote:
>Frank Kerfoot <f.kerfoot@att.com> wrote:
>DELETED
> I 
>>don't see much modeling (at least of trains) in 1/10 or 1/100, which 
>>would cater to metric measurements.
>>
>>Frank Kerfoot
>>f.kerfoot@att.com
>>
>
>HO ....... or better HO! Perhaps the 
>most popular scale for model trains
>is 3.5mm to the foot! (appx 1/87)
>
>
>Reg Barron
>


It's 1 in 87.085714. Probably better expressed as a fraction (!): 1 in
87&3/35ths.  And people claim that S (1 in 64) is the only Imperial (when they
mean rational) scale!

--
Dr Adrian Whichello                                  Phone: +61 2 9351 4824
Imaging Science and Engineering Laboratory             Fax: +61 2 9351 3847
Sydney University Electrical Engineering      Email: adrianw@ee.usyd.edu.au
Australia                           WWW: http://www.ee.usyd.edu.au/~adrianw

"I wish to God these calculations had been executed by steam!" - C. Babbage


From jmsche01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmsche01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu (James M. Scherer)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to recover a weld on zinc-plated steel ?
Followup-To: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 24 Sep 1996 13:58:09 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
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Steven O. Smith (steve_smith@cc.com) wrote:
: C++ Freak wrote:
: > 
: > Welding zinc-plated steel (usually immersed in a zinc bath) is harder
: > as (noxious) zinc vapors disturb the welding process, but it does work.
: > But after welding the zinc is gone, so it is susceptible to corrosion.
: > Is there any paint or whatsoever to recoat this weld ?
: > I know about a metallic gray paint with 'zinc dust' (?) available
: > in hardware or paint shops but is that effective ?
: > 
: > Klaas
: 
: The spray galvanizing stuff is supposed to be pretty effective. I have
: no experience to back that up.
: 
Another method is to spot galvanize using a torch.  This is similar to
tinning or soldering except that zinc is applied to the hot area.  I
understand that this is superior to zinc based paint.

Repair of damaged galvanized coatings is described in ASTM standard
A 780-80.

If you have trouble locating materials or information on the subject,
you might ask the American Galvanizers Association for help.

1-800-HOT-SPEC
Mitch



From wnrich01@homer.louisville.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Richmond <wnrich01@homer.louisville.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 10:02:07 -0700
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
Lines: 18
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Chester A. Roberts, Jr. wrote:
> 
> A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric
> acid as recommended by Hiraoka in his silver soldguide-
> lines.  I received a number of replies including: swimming pool
> chemical "Sodium Bisulfate" which is used to lower pool ph.

    Sodium bisulfate is not sulfuric acid; rather it is sulfuric acid 
that has been half neutralized.  It is very weak, and not good for the 
agressive cleaning required.

>    Problem #2: I also found an auto supply that sells battery
> acid.  Trouble is they don't list the strength of the acid. 

	They should be able to tell you the specific gravity of the acid, 
>from  which the concentration can be calculated. (I think that this is 
about 20% acid, but I am not sure.) I can check this and post it later.
					Bill Richmond


From cas@scd.etn.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chuck Skarsaune <cas@scd.etn.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:04:00 GMT
Organization: Eaton Corporation
Lines: 25
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I've used carbide tipped circular saw blades in a Skil saw to cut plate 
Aluminum up to 1" thick, but never on steel.  It zips through Aluminum.
I'd go real slow and easy on steel.

The cutoff tool idea was published in the Practical Ideas section of 
American Machinist, so other people have tried it.  Not I.

Chuck


"w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com> wrote:
>On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
>about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
>months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1. 
>I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
>work.  Anyone else try this?
>
>I was also wondering about cutting single teeth off of the blade (actually
>wedges) an using them as cut-off tools on a lathe.  Haven't tried that one
>yet.
>-- 
>(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
>And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
>W.J.Ward



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Junk Machinery
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:36:23 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From skarsaune@aol.com 
(Skarsaune), the following was written:
> The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations 
> posted by 
> others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
> legs, and
> get a good blade. 

Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?

Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!

If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
business long ago.

After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.

If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
 We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

<rant mode off>
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/24/96 07:35
 http://www.loganact.com




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 24 Sep 1996 13:10:28 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <528mk4$pe8$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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To: steve_smith@cc.com

Re: motor oil on machine tools.  

For starters, it's quite likely going to be the wrong viscosity. 
"10W" is *NOT* the same as "#10". The "W" number is viscosity 
at, I think, 32F, or possibly 0F, and I doubt your shop is 
that cold.

For another, it is designed to emulsify with water and hold 
it in suspension; Since an engine gets hotter than the boiling 
point of water, the water gets driven off.
Machine tool bearings and sliding surfaces don't (one hopes!)
get that hot.  Therefore, machine oil is designed to 
precipitate water.  

Motor oil is designed to keep dirt in suspension so the 
filter can take it out.  Machine tool  bearings don't 
have oil filters, so machine oil is non-detergent so any 
dirt will precipitate out.

There are a bunch of other minor differences too, but those
are the big ones.

All that said...does it *really* matter?  I use the correct
machine oil on my lathe spindle bearings and other precision 
parts.  I confess to using synthetic ATF (which is roughly 
equivalent to a #10 oil) on less critical parts, such as 
handwheels.  I've used #40 synthetic oil on leadscrews.



From burt@rocler.qc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:13:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!news.enteract.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!winternet.com!clio.trends.ca!worldlinx.com!news.bellglobal.com!news
From: burt lang <burt@rocler.qc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs inches
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 15:47:10 +0000
Organization: ve2bmq
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <3246B0FD.1D7@rocler.qc.ca>
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Steve Rayner wrote:
> 
> A fortnight is two weeks.  The term is still in use in the UK, and some
> commonwealth countries, but not Canada.
> 
> How about the French & Swiss " Ligne ", used into the 1930s in the watch
> industry.  It converts easily to inches.
> --
> Steve.
> 


It could be worse.

In a 1853 copy of "Templeton's Engineer, Millwright and Mechanics Pocket
Companion"  the following table appears (abridged to save space and
typing):

Length of a mile in different countries, given in yards.

Dantzic  8474 yards
Germany  6859
Hanover  1155
Hungary  9113
Ireland  2240
Poland   8239
Portugal 6760
Russia   1167
Spain    4634
Switzerland  9153

Just a couple of miles down the road, eh!!!!!!!

This book contains similar tables for pounds and feet.

Thank goodness for Metric


Burt>>>>



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:13:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960922191752.22874A-100000@saul2.u.washington.edu> <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 04:15:33 GMT
Lines: 54


No need to get that toxic!  I have been using a simple, safe, & cheap 
blackening solution for years.  Use 3 grams, or a bit more of sodium 
theosulphate ( From your friendly darkroom supply firm ), disolved in a 
liter of water.  Heat to 200 F. & dip the object until it is the desired 
shade.  You may have to scratch brush it a few times, especially if the 
solution is too strong.  The first objects I used this on, have been 
rattling around in my toolbox for years, and the finish is still good.  
In fact, I used ordinary Kodak acid fixer, which was too strong, but it 
worked!


In a previous article, jsp@u.washington.edu (Jeffrey Prothero) says:

>rnetmci.com!in2.uu.net!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!saul2.u.washington.edu!jsp
>From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Blueing steel
>Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 19:22:11 -0700
>Organization: University of Washington
>Lines: 19
>Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960922191752.22874A-100000@saul2.u.washington.edu>
>References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <52114k$fgn@homer.alpha.net>
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>NNTP-Posting-User: jsp
>In-Reply-To: <52114k$fgn@homer.alpha.net>
>
>
>
>On 21 Sep 1996 jlovallo@mixcom.com wrote:
>
>> Jeff, I used to do some gun bluing using a mixture of sodium hydroxide (lye) and
>> ammonium sulphate (fertilizer).  Temperature control for bluing is critical, the amount of
>> lye in the solution is used to control the temperature.  This solution produced a very
>> dense hard finish, but.... When mixing the solution, much strong ammonia gas is produced.
>> Do it outdoors and don't get downwind.
>>
>> John
>>
>
>I called my friend and he said that he used Sodium Nitrate ( sold as
>fertilizer for roses ) and Lye.      That gives a very black finish.
>I will do a bit of experimenting and report the results.
>
>					Cheers,
>
>

-- 
Steve.

**************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 10:27:00 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <324819E4.50DF@ix.netcom.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <3241E342.689@holli.com> <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com> <Dy1J7x.M4A@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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CC: kevrhods@ix.netcom.com

Russ Kepler wrote:
> 
> In article <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>,
> Kevin Rhodes, P.E. <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >Technically, it is not a machine gun although it may sound like one.  It
> >would actually be a semi-automatic in that the trigger would be manually
> >depressed (by turning the crank) for each shot.  I had read something to
> >this effect in Machine Gun News.
> >
> >The GE mini-gun is not technically a machine gun, but try to convince the
> >ATF.
> 
> Sorry, but according to law a GE mini-gun is a machine gun as it
> fires more than one projectile with a single mechanical motion (pull
> of the trigger).  As long as you have to move something to make
> another cartridge fire it's not a machine gun, thus a Gatling gun, with
> a crank motion to fire another round, is not a machine gun (until you
> put a motor on it, anyway).
> 
> --
> Russ Kepler                                                     russk@swcp.com
> 
>                     Please Don't Feed the Engineers

I concede the point.


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!cpk-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!news.sgi.com!news1.best.com!noos.hooked.net!news.scruz.net!usenet
From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Saw
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:16:01 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32456641.62F3@scruznet.com>
References: <513ata$egr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <522h1c$aaq@ecuador.earthlink.net>
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To: itsme <yno@itsme.net>

itsme wrote:
> 
> tristerk@aol.com (Trister K) wrote:
> 
> >What kind of saw would I want for cutting small lengths (6-16 inches) of
> >stainless steel (440c and ATS-35) up to a quater inch thick? What kind of
> >blades?
> 

For doing a fair amount of cutting of this type of material, I would use
a "wet" cutting horizontal band saw, with hydraulic down feed. The
imports are ranging about 7-800 dollars. A vari-tooth 5-8 bi-metal blade
(I use Lennox) would give pretty good life. Stainless is fairly hard to
cut and dry cutting will typically kill the blade long before it's time.
I use a lubricant sold by my Lennox distributor call "Blazol 2000" which
is cut 5 to 1 with water. It doesn't get rank in odor and in fact I also
use it as my tapping fluid and mist coolant on the mills & lathes
(cutting it further).
Lee
-- 
  _
    __--´o`--_
__-'           `_
||               |___,         O   O    N
||______    _____|___|      D
| |_____|__|            Y
| |     |  | B  O  N N
| |_____|  |
|_|_____|_ | E N G I N
||_____ o \|            E
| |=  =\   \_________,      E
| |=  = \   o_____|__|         R  I  N  G
|_|=__=__\__/
|__________|


                   "MAKING A GOOD IMPRESSION"


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 24 Sep 1996 22:29:52 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 30
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In article <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
>that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
>received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
>would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
>pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.

I wrote that article in HSM after I had owned the lathe for some time. I
guess I was foolish to continue with it but I to use it daily. Since Jet
had replaced a bent one with one with bent parts I figured it was about as
good as could get from Jet.

>If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
>quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
> We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

Er, excuse me? Just which car or cars are you referring to?? The quality
of US cars is still back in the dark ages when you compare performance,
effiiency and enconomy of *any* European makes. The US makers are good at
adding gadgets like power seats and a driver profile, but what about HP
and economy??

Peter

PS I am currently looking to buy a Logan or a SB lathe and small shaper.





From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.new-york.net!iag.net!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!My486!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:06:16 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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>keithclark@kw.igs.net (Keith J. Clark) wrote:
>>I am looking for blueprints for a miniature lathe and milling machine 
>>that I could make myself.  Anyone know of a source?
>>

MODELTEC magazine ran a 2 part series in the Aug and Sept, 1988 issues on a 
very nicely designed small lathe. The lathe had been designed as a project for 
a college machine tool technology course. All the machinig steps were 
detailed, and it looks to bea very workable tool.

The bed ways are made from precision ground square stock. It is mounted on 
edge, so you wind up with Vways, but easy to make. It would require a lathe 
and mill to build.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From proudhon@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: proudhon@aol.com (PROUDHON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: what is M300 Steel?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 11:04:21 -0400
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I've been reading about gears made from M300 but can't find out 
what it is.

Any info would be helpful.

Joe Davis


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:10:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 33
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In <527kr2$vke@news.myriad.net> laveryt@mail.myriad.net (Bill Averyt)
writes: 
>
>I recently purchased at auction a 14" South Bend "Nordic" engine
lathe.  The cross-slide gib is missing.  The
>manufacturer shipped me a new gib ($530), but it was the wrong size. 
They say that was the only one they have for that
>machine.  This is a difficult piece for me to make in my shop.  Is
there such a thing as a "generic, cut to fit" gib?  I
>would appreciate any and all comments. 
>

 Southbend's prices are quite high, but I cannot imagine over $500 for
a gib. Are you sure that you are using the right nomenclature for the
part you need? As for the gib being difficult to make, I would consider
it the easiest thing on the Lathe to make. That assumes you have access
to a surface grinder. I had a gib for a Sheldon cross slide made up at
a local machine shop (I didn't have any surface grinders in stock at
the time.) It cost me a case of Budweiser. Thats about $514.00 cheaper
than Southbend, and I even got to drink one on delivery.
 A note on Southbend 14" Lathes. They are kind of white elephants.
Parts are tough to come by used, so you may be at the mercy of
Southbend for certain parts. I strongly advise you to assess your
investment in this machine. If it is in poor shape, or missing lots of
stuff, I can assure you that it will become a money pit. I know of
someone that has this machine less the carriage, apron, cross slide,
and compound. I gave him the same advice. He may be a source of parts
for you in the future if he still has the machine.
 Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery " A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
http://hre.com/meridian



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:36:29 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 26
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Hi Joe,

You knew I had to butt in here didn't you?

3-AT Collets are available from Hardinge (VERY EXPENSIVE!!!) or from MSC
(EXPENSIVE).  MSC's price is $31.24 each. Compare that to the price for
5-C, which is $6 to $25, depending on brand/quality. Check out some used
dealers, you might be able to find some.  Try Meridian Machinery
(mermac@ix.netcom.com) or Plaza (amy.bergamo@quest-net.com).

Maximum capacity of 3-AT or 3-C is 1/2" round, 7/16 hex and 11/32
square.

There are front mount collet attachments available for 5-C collets,
including one made by Royal, but they are pretty expensive.  Also, front
mount "chuck-type" collet mounts available from MSC and others.  Through
hole capacity will still be limited by the spindle bore, in your case,
25/32".  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/24/96 07:35
 http://www.loganact.com




From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: cnc controlled plasma burner table
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:58:30 GMT
Organization: InterNex Information Services 1-800-595-3333
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On 23 Sep 1996 15:21:25 GMT, "Bill Cottrell" <wcottr@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:

>I am looking for a small cnc controlled plasma burning table. If you have
>anything like this please E-mail info.
Eeeeck! No no......

Please DO post it as well, if you would. I bet there more more than just
Bill who would be interested in this info.

manyTIA
Garfield



From cpollard@csn.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 24 Sep 1996 15:32:12 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
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Scott Logan (SLogan@gnn.com) wrote:

: Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
: to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
Well I could have spent $2000 on a German lathe or the $1000 I did spend
on a Grizzly.  For a few hours work I was able to make it perform almost
as well - maybe it won't last as long but I don't need it to. I was able
to do want I wanted - mostly mitering some tubes.  So the net cost to me
was less - maybe one should think of it as a kit of premachined parts.  
The only "cheaper" alternative would be to build my own - but then I'd be
better off spending the hours working at Mac Donalds and saving up for the
German one.
If you don't absolutely have to have a dead reliable long-lived machine
these imports represent a useful minimal cost solution.
In one case for a piece of assembly equipment - the designers were able to
use a Taiwanese press, throw away most of the parts they didn't need and
ended up with a cheaper solution than designing the whole thing from scratch.
OTOH the high volume, high precision machining vendor I use, who runs
three shifts, buys about the most expensive fastest Japanese CNC machines
he can - because it makes financial sense.
I could buy a $5000 Snap-on tool kit or spend $200 on mixed items to fix
my car - if the Taiwanese sockets break I replace them with US ones.


From randy@intnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 21:54:20 -0700
Organization: Intelligence Network Online, Inc.
Lines: 21
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		<korenma1-2009960739430001@ppp7.ppp.tju.edu>
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Dion Hollenbeck wrote:
> 
> I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
> in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
> fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.
> 
> dion
> --
> Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
> Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California

I've begun using epoxy primers instead of acid etch primers.  From my
local auto finish store I got DP-90 and DP-402(primer epoxy and 
activator catalyst).  The epoxy primers are not porous as the acid etch
primers I'm aware of, and are hard as hard can be.  The primer and 
activator are mixed 50/50 and there are 2 different activators that you
can choose from, one is fast cure and one is slow cure.  The fast cure
will have a pot life of a few hours(don't leave it in your spray gun)
or the slow cure which will be sprayable for a couple of days.
Clint
50/50


From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 18:52:39 -0700 (PDT)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
Lines: 43
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A little off topic, but my dad (who, AFAIK never touched a computer)
loved to hear how they applied to his "real world".

"w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com> wrote:
>One thing I would like to point out, though, is that when it comes to
>computers, they "think" in powers of 2, not 10.  So, what would be easier
>for a computer to handle, 64ths of an inch or 1000ths of a meter?

Good point.  In base 2, rational decimal fractions (.1 is an example)
are irrational (require infinite digits to represent exactly), as 1/7
and 1/3 are in decimal. ( which are just  .1 in base 7 or  3)  (I know
some machinists, who really should be using base 7 or 8 ;-)

In computerized controls (my background in flight controls, but
matters for CNC also) it is important to keep error due to rounding
(keeping only "n" digits) from accumulating (read that as "drift")
over time or repeated motions.  To that end, everytnig is normalized
to units exactly representable in base-2, giving a so-called fixed
point system...in the end you may round off and tell the 10 fingered
pilot 10.6 degrees flap, but the computer is actually maintaining 10
5/8 degrees. (which it knows only as 85 arbitrary units)

Now on a CNC machine, you just make the steps equal to a tenth (or
half a tenth), and then you're computer need only deal in whole
numbers of steps (it has no problem using really big numbers!) .....In
the above example, each unit represents 1/8 of a degree,...so the
answer is the computer doesn't have to deal with fractions OR
decimals, and it could care diddly about what the "real" units are.
But don't go measuring angles with radians.. .you need to break a
circle into some integer number of units, unless you really _don't_
want to index from one turn to the next..  

Because programmers who can deal with such "arbitrary units" demand
higher salerys than those who can't, there is some effort to improve
so called "floating point" control systems.  They tend, however, to
display hard to track down bugs, and non-repeatable errors.  The
techno-buzzword is "non-deterministic". The true location of the
cutter might depend heavily on the path by which it came if such a
controller were running a CNC machine...not what you want.

-KF-




From rays@admin.stedwards.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
Date: 25 Sep 1996 03:18:58 GMT
Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35410 sci.materials:20382

Jeffrey Prothero (jsp@u.washington.edu) wrote:
: Many years ago a friend reblued the barrel of my .22 rifle in a tank of
: boiling solution of some salt.  This is of course the usual way blueing is
: done.  However the salts that he used were not sold for use in blueing.
: They were sold as fertilizer.

: Does anyone know what blueing salts are?  And does anyone know which
: fertilizer can be used for blueing  ( possibly the same question )?

: I recently bought some aluminum sulphate at the garden nursery for use in
: disolving a broken tap out of a piece of aluminum.  And this set me
: thinking.

: 				Cheers,

There is an article in the current HSM which cover this topic.  It does
not give a formula for the solution (recommending instead a commercial
source), but the rest of the article does a pretty good job of explaining
the process, and the danger involved.



From jesw@mitre.org Fri Sep 27 16:13:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re-gringding lathe bed
Date: 23 Sep 1996 20:22:11 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <jesw-2309961626440001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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> In <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>, "William J. Graf
Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> >I have a South Bend 9" lathe and am thinking of getting the ways
> >reground and a new or better tailstock as the one on it is worn
> >and I have to use shims to get it parallel with the head.  I
> >used two centers, one in the head stock and one in the tail
> >stock to line them up, is that the correct way?  I live in the
> >Cleve. Ohio area and would like to know if anyone knows of a
> >company that can re-grind the ways and approximate cost.  The
> >bed is approx. 3 ft. in length.  Thanks in advance.
> >Bill

I've used a big horizontal milling machine to recut a well-worn lathe. It
didn't do a perfect job but it took out the sag in the ways and there
wasn't much left to remove by hand. The biggest problem is that the half
nuts are no longer aligned with the leadscrew. 
Lindsay's book Machine Tool Reconditioning tells how to test and rescrape
the lathe parts by hand.


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: re metric : "Jerry" building; When all else fails, look it up!
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:44:37 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32475925.61E9@mail.idt.net>
References: <walter.88.0000BDDE@walter.airtime.co.uk> <3243E321.E64@mail.idt.net> <520j5s$mrr@news.intranet.ca> <32450F47.3520@mail.idt.net> <526634$j99@news1.io.org>
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To: Spehro Pefhany <speff@io.org>

I was surprised to find the term goes back at least another 70 years 
(to mid-19th century)in the U.S. as well, but so does the pejorative 
ethnicism!  

   I gather that landless Germans (including younger sons of pretty good 
families) of the day had only a few choices, several of which involved 
wearing bright colors and having people wearing other colors fire weapons 
in their direction.  No doubt the otherwise-impossible dream of actual 
land ownership in the U.S. made a more pleasant alternative, based upon 
the numbers who came over.

  Weren't many of them surprised within a few years of their arrival to 
be invited to do the same thing here (get shot at), the difference being 
that here nobody was civilized enough to depart the field with only 10 or 
15% casualties.  Here, the other side acted as if they were downright 
angry with somebody.


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 20:53:47 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32475B4B.114F@mail.idt.net>
References: <Dy1D56.6GH@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <51mf6s$ack@buffnet2.bu <51mq75$r87@news-2.csn.net> < <Dy4nGL.1nt@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <524kkj$dgb@mandolin.qnet.com>
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To: Jim Dincau <jdincau@cello.qnet.com>

My point exactly when I started all this (I am also 76257.3632 @ 
Compuserve.com).  I think the fellow inquiring failed to recognize that 
anybody needing precision, or even needing to regularly add measures such
as draftsmen or surveyors, already used decimals instead of 1/8ths, etc.

   Thus there is absolutely no accuracy advantage either way and any base 
unit will do, but the conversion we make from fractions to decimals does 
invite error (which is why we avoid them, except in carpentry).  I defy 
any carpenter to achieve accuracy greater than 1/32" (heck, I can hardly 
do that with metal much less wood!)


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 16:31:03 GMT
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Lines: 41
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In article <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:

>Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
>to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?

>Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
>THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!

>If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
>business long ago.

>After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
>that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
>received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
>would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
>pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.

>If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
>quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
> We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

Scott,
In all respect and with awe at your service, the reason we idiots buy
all this crap is because
1) We have X amount of dollars, period.
2) It's cheaper  to fix a problem through service than
through quality control (I am assuming this, and am writing
a letter to JET to see if this is the case)

So, the way I see it, I must challenge you, Scott.
Go to Asia(or USA), have a respectable foundry do castings for you,
ship them back to USA, assemble them in your factory, with your
high level of quality control. Sell this lathe (mill, bandsaw) for no more 
that 20%over the Jet/ENCO/Harbor Freight price. Can this be done?
Or even offer us a kit of asian castings and USA hardware, bearings etc.

Can you make a USA tool as inexpensively as a Asia tool?

You're one of the most experienced guys on the NG, if
you can't do it, who can?



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!cpk-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-feed2.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re-gringding lathe bed
Date: 24 Sep 1996 16:52:57 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <5293l9$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com> <51u68p$1b39@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
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	My 9" had the War Production Board sticker on 
	it still, and had clearly been used in a production environment.   After
	working for the war effort, it has gone on to train at least 3 individuals
	that I know of.

As I think you'll recall, mine does, too. It's good to hear that there's
life after a War Production 9" ... I sometimes am dismayed of ever
getting this machine back together to make chips! (We prime the parts
tomorrow - it's getting close.)

Mostly what I worry about is that I'll have a beautiful looking machine
that won't cut true.

(Jim Rozen, I always have trouble replying to you - whatever machine
gets mail destined for "@watson.ibm.com" doesn't know the user jrro.
Your signature looks more like jrr0; maybe you need to fix your headers?)


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:13:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bluing/blackening zinc-plated fasteners - how?
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 19:20:57 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32471c3c.515550425@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of "Alan J. Richer" <alan_richer@crd.lotus.com>
having written:

>In the ongoing battle with my elderly Land-Rover, 

There are a few specialists around who sell collections of bolts and
fasteners specifically for Landies, in all the original finishes. LRO
had a piece on one a few months back - I could probably find it if
you're interested.

My Landie gets whatever I give it, and should consider itself lucky. 


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Copper plate, where?
Message-ID: <1996Sep24.124454.25104@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 24 Sep 96 12:44:53 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <323F02A9.15D3@ix.netcom.com> <323F8E04.1CA2@worldnet.att.net> 
 <babcock.13.011C8E6D@infi.net> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960923152504.23251A-100000@clarion.korrnet.o
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In article <Pine.GSO.3.95.960923152504.23251A-100000@clarion.korrnet.o, Gary L Lawson <gilmore@korrnet.org> writes:
|>excuse my ignorance but what the heck does MSC stand for and where do you
|>get this catalog?????   gilmore@korrnet.org

>From  the FAQ:

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://mscdirect.com

      Their 96/97 catalog is 3555 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.  The catalog is free in the 50 USA states, and
      Puerto Rico and Canada.  A CD-ROM version might be available by
      mid-1997.

      Outside the US, their current (September 1996) policy is:

      *  The minimum order size for export orders is US$500
      *  Only products in stock at the time of shipment will be included on
         the order
      *  MSC will not process backorders or provide for special orders
                                                                                 


From steerage@aztec.co.za Fri Sep 27 16:13:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!quagga.ru.ac.za!uct.ac.za!iafrica.com!aztec.co.za!usenet
From: steerage@aztec.co.za (clance)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HAND MADE AFRICAN WIRE HARLEYS
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 01:15:36 GMT
Organization: Aztec Public Access Internet
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <5291qv$19m@aztec.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: clance.aztec.co.za
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

HAND MADE AFRICAN WIRE HARLEYS

Every single item a hand-made collector's piece. These Harley's are
hand-made by South African "township entrepeneurs" from discarded 
wire and old tubing rubber.  They are truly remarkable objet d'art 
that will grace even the most sophisticated of settings ....... and
could be considered "collecter's pieces" ...... particularly by
Harley enthusiasts.  Available only in very limited numbers.  If
you want one you had better call now!

<http://www.steerage.co.za/harley/>
Steerage Information and Marketing



From jmreid@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!tezcat!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!news.u.washington.edu!root
From: "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 01:14:40 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <3248E9F0.7FF0@u.washington.edu>
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To: Sandi <103437.124@CompuServe.COM>

A kit like the one described by David is available from Ideal Industrial
Supplies at 2005 Van Epps Road SE,  Olympia WA 98501
360 352 3471
The rod costs $35 a pound, and "welds" most non-ferrous metals


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!ames!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Southbend 10K Taper Att.
Date: 24 Sep 1996 12:51:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Message-ID: <528lhe$1li@dfw-ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Sep 24  7:51:58 AM CDT 1996

 Greetings,
 I am looking for a part for a taper attachment for a 10K or 9"
Southbend. I need the sliding block. Southbend wants $227.00 for this
piece. I have one from a Logan, but it is different enough that I would
be better off starting from scratch. No luck with Sobel, Plaza, et al.
 Anyone got a spare? I would consider buying a complete taper as well.
Failing that, can anyone sketch me some dimensions?
Thanks in advance,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery
P.S. I have lots of intersting stuff to trade for this piece if we
can't get together on a cash price.


From scooper@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!hookup!news.nstn.ca!thor.atcon.com!usenet
From: stewart cooper <scooper@atcon.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bib seat reamer or dresser
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 17:37:15 -0300
Organization: Atlantic Connect
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ERich10983 wrote:
> 
> I recently helped a friend clean out his fathers home.  Along with useful
> goodies from Starett and other brands was a small tool in the origional
> box was a Keystone Bibb seat reamer.  Its about 2 inches long, 1 1/2
> inches dia for the large diameter, tapering to 1/2 inch at the small dia.
> It has an external and internal spiral thread.  Its hollow to receive a
> shaft that has one of four rosette cutters screwed on the end.  What is
> this thing?    Earleit sounds like a valve seat reamer for engine heads with none hardend 
seats,the type of head used before unleaded gas .I think. My father has 
a set and I think they are made by keystone. Does it have a piot to fit 
in the valve stem bore?


From rayhbf@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rayhbf@aol.com (RayHBF)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: craftsman/atlas parts
Date: 24 Sep 1996 17:36:04 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 9
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I have a similar problem.  I recently bought an Atla. 5 inch chuck and 24
inch bed with an overhead gantry of pullies, 6 speeds in all, driven by a
quarter horse motor.  The lathet is complete and solid but it does not
have any of the screw cutting gears although it has the power feed. How
does one find these gears? Are they still available?

Any help and advice will be appreciated.

Thanks. 


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Machine oil
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James Kirkpatrick wrote:

> The following might help, from the FAQ:

My apologies for not checking the FAQ first!

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From r.lee@windshadow.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randolph Lee" <r.lee@windshadow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
Date: 24 Sep 96 16:47:10 -0500
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <AE6DC114-B0B184@204.249.164.135>
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Bill Averyt <laveryt@mail.myriad.net>Typed
>I recently purchased at auction a 14" South Bend "Nordic" engine lathe. 
>The cross-slide gib is missing.  The 
>manufacturer shipped me a new gib ($530), but it was the wrong size. 
>They say that was the only one they have for that
>machine.  This is a difficult piece for me to make in my shop.  Is there
>such a thing as a "generic, cut to fit" gib?  I
>would appreciate any and all comments. 

Not sure we talking about the same thing here as I can not think anyone in
their right minds would charge that kind of money for a gib strip... is the
'.' in the right place? 53.00 bucks I might think bandets like south bend
might getaway with ... but 530!

so for clarity are we talking about the thin strip of steel that rests in
the X-slide v ways cut sort of in the shape of a paralogram in section with
dimple spots that the gib screws go into?

if so they are very easy to make if they are like the ones on a 10 I
southbend (users of A.L.s MLA T-slot Xslide will have seen this method
before it is the one from his instructions and is the easyest way I think
for non mass production one off type work) and you can even make them out
of plastic (teflon springs to mind... ) 

Take a piece of steel the right size  say an 3/32 to 1/8 thick (look at a
real on of get the corect size from some one here who has one and can
measure it up for you ) and trim it to shape by taking the x-slide and
mounting it upside down on your milling machine. set the gib blank in the
v-way with adjustable parallels and or wedges and mill the angle down to
within say 20 thou of the bottom of the X-slide... then flip it over and
put about 30 thou of shim stock under it and reclamp and again mill it down
to 20 thou or so... you should now have about 10 thou of clearance when you
remove the shim stock... reclamp one more time and now clamp the xslide to
an angle plate and very carefuly centering in each gib hole (or you can
make a spin in drill bushing to fit the gib threads) and seting the depth
of drilling you spot in each gib screw hole for the point of the gib
screw...

remove debur and your done...

but given the price you mentioned I have to think we are talking about a
diferent part.... perhaps the whole Xslide or compound? 

~R
Windshadow Engineering
Nantucket Island MA






From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 24 Sep 1996 21:52:40 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <324761B3.2F02@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com>
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2

In <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
>Hi Joe,
>
>You knew I had to butt in here didn't you?
>
>3-AT Collets are available from Hardinge (VERY EXPENSIVE!!!) or from MSC
>(EXPENSIVE).  MSC's price is $31.24 each. Compare that to the price for
>5-C, which is $6 to $25, depending on brand/quality. Check out some used
>dealers, you might be able to find some.  Try Meridian Machinery
>(mermac@ix.netcom.com) or Plaza (amy.bergamo@quest-net.com).
>
>Maximum capacity of 3-AT or 3-C is 1/2" round, 7/16 hex and 11/32
>square.
>
>There are front mount collet attachments available for 5-C collets,
>including one made by Royal, but they are pretty expensive.  Also, front
>mount "chuck-type" collet mounts available from MSC and others.  Through
>hole capacity will still be limited by the spindle bore, in your case,
>25/32".  
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/24/96 07:35
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>

3C can be used in a 3AT machine - the only difference I can determine
is that the slot for the pin on the 3AT is longer than on the 3C.  I have
taken 3Cs and milled the slot to be longer with a carbide end mill.

This will only work if you can find a source of good, cheap 3C collets.
Unfortunately, this is unlikely.


===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From gardnerw@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!swrinde!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!gardnerw
From: gardnerw@gnn.com (William Gardner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 04:59:54
Organization: GNN
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <529i8r$c19@news-e2d.gnn.com>
References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <528uts$qo8@news-2.csn.net>
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>I could buy a $5000 Snap-on tool kit or spend $200 on mixed items to fix
>my car - if the Taiwanese sockets break I replace them with US ones.

What do you replace your broken knuckles with??
-----------------------------
Will Gardner
gardnerw@gnn.com
-----------------------------



From bharne@adss.on.ca Fri Sep 27 16:13:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news2.cais.net!news.cais.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!news
From: "Bill Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 24 Sep 1996 01:22:23 GMT
Organization: Zippo
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Find your local Valvoline distributor and ask for their non-detergent oil.
I have some here, both SAE 30 and 40 that I used in my Unimat 7 lathe/mill.
Still use it for general purpose lubrication of lathe and mill beds and
cross slides, etc..

Kevin Rhodes, P.E. <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<3246C2BB.6F9@ix.netcom.com>...
> Sorry if this a FAQ.  I looked there and could not find.  I just 
> purchased a lathe and want to keep it humming along.  The seller 
> recommended SAE 30 non-detergent for machine oil.  He was fairly 
> emp[hatic about this.  I am having a helluva time finding non-detergent. 
>  It seems that someone said that they use Mobil 1.  Is this true.  Any 
> hints on what type of retailers may carry a suitable oil?
> 


From dgshively@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: dgshively@aol.com (Dgshively)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam Engine Kits - Where??
Date: 25 Sep 1996 08:02:04 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I'm wondering where I can find info on kits for steam
engines.  I'm looking for an engine and boiler capable 
of propelling a small ~18ft. boat.  I have seen pictures
of similar boats in WoodenBoat magazine and one  of
them identified the engine as built from a "Semple" kit.

Does anyone have any info on Semple or other steam
engine kits??

Thanks in advance,

David Shively

David G. Shively, PhD       dgshively@aol.com    
   
Shively Engineering --- Research & Development - Consulting Services
http://members.aol.com/dgshively/


From luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:13:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Stewart <luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 16:10:05 -0400
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Chris Pollard wrote:
> 
> Scott Logan (SLogan@gnn.com) wrote:
> 
> : Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
> : to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
> Well I could have spent $2000 on a German lathe or the $1000 I did spend
> on a Grizzly.  For a few hours work I was able to make it perform almost
> as well - maybe it won't last as long but I don't need it to....

What is the resale value? 

In my mind, spending the money for something that will hold its value, because
it is well made and is respected in the marketplace, is money worth spending.

I went from an old 9 inch lathe, which was cheap, to a "newer" Emco Compact-8,
and there was no comparison. The old lathe has not been used since, thanks.

The Emco is a joy to use - there are no surprizes, and was worth every penny
that I spent on it. I bought it used, so its resale value is the same, or more,
than it was. (used prices in the British Magazines indicate that it has increased
its value over the years, for what that comparison is worth)

There are always two sides to every argument, though. I'll admit that forking
over gobs of cash is pretty difficult...

John Stewart
luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca


From carl@scott.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Morse taper
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 04:30:21 GMT
Organization: Scott Network Services, Inc.
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   Several of the contributors to this newsgroup have commented on the fact that
the various Morse tapers have different amounts of taper per inch.

   The best explaination I have ever seen for this has to do with patents.  In
the past patent applications were usually acompanied by models or samples.  If
the originator of the Morse taper sent in samples of the various tapers then the
patent might have been based on the actual measurements of the samples, which
seem to form two groups. The taper in one group differs from the taper in the
other group.  Perhaps the inventor had to tear down the setup on his lathe
between groups.


From drewid@lanminds.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp0.mindspring.com!news.mindspring.com!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!news.lanminds.com!usenet
From: Andrew Werby <drewid@lanminds.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: 24 Sep 1996 17:43:03 GMT
Organization: United Artworks
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <5296j7$7va@lanshark.lanminds.com>
References: <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
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ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) wrote:
>
>A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric
>acid as recommended by Hiraoka in his silver soldguide-
>lines. 

[I don't see why you need to mess with sulphuric acid- just clean the 
steel along the intended joint mechanically, with a file, grinder, 
sandpaper, etc.]


 I received a number of replies including: swimming pool
>chemical "Sodium Bisulfate" which is used to lower pool ph.

[This doesn't make sulphuric acid. It is used as a pickle for 
non-ferrous metals, but is not recommended for steel. Being more 
reactive, steel oxidizes quickly in acid- this doesn't do it any good.]


Andrew Werby - United Artworks

http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid




From janders@oro.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!oronet!usenet
From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: A new clamping "device"
Date: 24 Sep 1996 14:21:51 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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Ran across something I thought might be usefull to many here.

It's a new clamping product from Mitee Bite. It's a .0005 thick holding media
imbedded both sides with a heat activated adhesive. A sheet is cut to the size 
of what you want to clamp, leaving about a 1/4" border all around.
The material is placed between the work piece and a sub-plate, lightly clamped, 
then heated to 180-200 degrees. Cool with water or air, and you are ready to
machine. To release, just re-heat. It will hold to approx 40 lb/sq. in.
Comes in rolls, the smaller size is 1x5 foot and sells for $32.
Mitee Bite can be reached at 800-543-3580.

I called, and two days later had a flyer with a 1x2" sample, which I will test in
the next day or so, and report back.

I have no connection with Mitee Bite whatever, just thought that this product 
would certainly help some folks out.

 Jon Anderson


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
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Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> In article <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From skarsaune@aol.com
> (Skarsaune), the following was written:
> > The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations
> > posted by
> > others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
> > legs, and
> > get a good blade.
I agree, Scott. Refusing to accept junk is the best long term strategy.
Unfortunately, if you are new to the hobby, you don't know what problems
you have until you build up experience, and then you can't return it. 

My two main experiences with cheap tools were in saw blades and with a
mill-drill. I realized that I had a problem with the cheap hacksaw
blades the first time I tried to cut (annealed) tool steel. They didn't.
I don't buy those any more.

It would be really interesting if someone would actually measure the
effectiveness of different brands of cutting tools. Compare finish,
cutter life, etc. among different brands of blades, mills, etc. I'd be
willing to help with such a project, but I don't know enough about
machining to plan it out.

I bought my mill-drill used. I don't think there were any quality
problems with it--it did well on 'light milling', exactly as advertised.
As my projects developed, I learned that 'light milling' did not
describe most of my projects. 

What I find hardest to follow is why people prefer to buy new machines
over used ones. With just a little education on the part of the buyer,
you can get a much nicer machine for the same money. This is especially
true in saws--I've bought two Keller wet power hacksaws for $150 each,
which are far superior to a small bandsaw. You have to inspect used
stuff carefully, and be willing to wait for a machine to show up.

> 
> Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
> to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
> 
> Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
> THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!
> 
> If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
> business long ago.
> 
> After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
> that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
> received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
> would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
> pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.
> 
> If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
> quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
>  We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.
> 
> <rant mode off>
> 
> 
> --
>  ----------------------------------------
>  Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
>  09/24/96 07:35
>  http://www.loganact.com

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 14:08:14 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
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References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <528uts$qo8@news-2.csn.net>
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Chris Pollard wrote:
> 
> Scott Logan (SLogan@gnn.com) wrote:
> 
> : Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
> : to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
> Well I could have spent $2000 on a German lathe or the $1000 I did spend
> on a Grizzly.  For a few hours work I was able to make it perform almost
> as well - maybe it won't last as long but I don't need it to. I was able
> to do want I wanted - mostly mitering some tubes.  So the net cost to me
> was less - maybe one should think of it as a kit of premachined parts.
> The only "cheaper" alternative would be to build my own - but then I'd be
> better off spending the hours working at Mac Donalds and saving up for the
> German one.
> If you don't absolutely have to have a dead reliable long-lived machine
> these imports represent a useful minimal cost solution.
> In one case for a piece of assembly equipment - the designers were able to
> use a Taiwanese press, throw away most of the parts they didn't need and
> ended up with a cheaper solution than designing the whole thing from scratch.
> OTOH the high volume, high precision machining vendor I use, who runs
> three shifts, buys about the most expensive fastest Japanese CNC machines
> he can - because it makes financial sense.
> I could buy a $5000 Snap-on tool kit or spend $200 on mixed items to fix
> my car - if the Taiwanese sockets break I replace them with US ones.

Different strokes.  I am mostly a tinkerer, but I probably will have my 
new old lathe for quite a while.  IMO, I would rather spend an equivalent 
amount of money on used quality than on new equipment that does not 
perform.


From iorio@pop.erols.com@erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Vince Iorio <"iorio@pop.erols.com"@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 09:41:49 -0700
Organization: Very Little
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Message-ID: <52a2o7$3ok@test-sun.erols.com>
References: <3246C2BB.6F9@ix.netcom.com> <526m5d$b0m@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3246F0C3.66@cc.com> <528mk4$pe8$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Steve Wellcome wrote:
> 
> Re: motor oil on machine tools.
> 
> For starters, it's quite likely going to be the wrong viscosity.
> "10W" is *NOT* the same as "#10". The "W" number is viscosity
> at, I think, 32F, or possibly 0F, and I doubt your shop is
> that cold.

Not really a good assumption.  My friend works in his unheated shop during the
winter, he has to run the mill and lathe at slow speed to warm up the oil
before use.  He's planning on changing to a different oil this winter.

A multi-wieght oil can have more additives then mineral oil.  Motor oil
is only really good only for cars.


> Motor oil is designed to keep dirt in suspension so the
> filter can take it out.  Machine tool  bearings don't
> have oil filters, so machine oil is non-detergent so any
> dirt will precipitate out.

Not complete correct.  The detergents keep the oil in suspension so that
the filter will not clog.  When a detergent oil is placed in old equipment
it will strip off the dirt, not good.  Old/older airplane I.C. engines
that have used a straight mineral have to keep using a non-detergent oil
because the "stuff" that coats the inside of the engine will be stripped
off and clog the filter. 

> 
> There are a bunch of other minor differences too, but those
> are the big ones.


Vince


From ranson@infoave.net Fri Sep 27 16:13:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!in-news.erinet.com!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!samba.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!news.PBI.net!j6.inktomi.com!re.hotwired.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news1.sunbelt.net!dial-16
From: ranson@infoave.net (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Facited Gemstones and Cabs
Date: 25 Sep 1996 14:11:40 GMT
Organization: Info Avenue INTERNET Access
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:14576 rec.crafts.metalworking:35436 rec.crafts.misc:24111

I have a large variety of gemstones for sale. Facited stones and Cabachons, in 
just about all the colored varieties. I do not have a paper catelog, a partial 
listing of my stones can be found at:
http://www.ro.com/av/gems/rj4.html

Or call for stones not listed at 615-536-5467
Ranson's Custom Jewelry


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:13:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
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References: <527q1f$no5@aux.stedwards.edu> <51nq4g$419@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <Dxz0xA.HH1@freene
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:36:28 GMT
Lines: 46


You want crude?  When the old English Lucas distributors were worn ( 
common problem )  I used the lightbulb trick, after setting the points by 
eye, with an extra large gap!  Effectively setting the dwell.  Did the 
same thing a few years ago on a lady friends Toyota.  A service station 
told her the car couldn't be tuned, without a new distributor!  I had it 
running fine in jig time.



In a previous article, rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne) says:

>du!aux.stedwards.edu!admin.stedwards.edu!rays
>From: rays@admin.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
>Date: 24 Sep 1996 05:02:39 GMT
>Organization: St. Edward's University, Austin, TX
>Lines: 16
>Message-ID: <527q1f$no5@aux.stedwards.edu>
>References: <51nq4g$419@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <51gmpj$6a4@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <jesw-1909961344410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: 198.214.144.2
>X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
>
>James Wilkins (jesw@mitre.org) wrote:
>: In article <Dxz0xA.HH1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
>: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
>
>: > I used to gap the points in my cars with my thumbnail!  
>: > 
>
>: How crude of you! The correct setting is the thickness of a matchbook
>: cover. Then you set the static timing with a precision test instrument
>: made from a tail light socket and two alligator clips.
>
>On old GM products that had an adjustment you could make while the 
>engine was running we always turned it in (less gap I think) 'till it 
>died and then backed off 1/2 turn.  Seemed to work pretty well.
>
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:13:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: HAND MADE AFRICAN WIRE HARLEYS
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <5291qv$19m@aztec.co.za>  
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:44:22 GMT
Lines: 36


Count me out. I would rather play with my real one!


In a previous article, steerage@aztec.co.za (clance) says:

>t!quagga.ru.ac.za!uct.ac.za!iafrica.com!aztec.co.za!usenet
>From: steerage@aztec.co.za (clance)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: HAND MADE AFRICAN WIRE HARLEYS
>Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 01:15:36 GMT
>Organization: Aztec Public Access Internet
>Lines: 13
>Message-ID: <5291qv$19m@aztec.co.za>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: clance.aztec.co.za
>X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
>
>HAND MADE AFRICAN WIRE HARLEYS
>
>Every single item a hand-made collector's piece. These Harley's are
>hand-made by South African "township entrepeneurs" from discarded 
>wire and old tubing rubber.  They are truly remarkable objet d'art 
>that will grace even the most sophisticated of settings ....... and
>could be considered "collecter's pieces" ...... particularly by
>Harley enthusiasts.  Available only in very limited numbers.  If
>you want one you had better call now!
>
><http://www.steerage.co.za/harley/>
>Steerage Information and Marketing
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH Fri Sep 27 16:13:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Janos ERO <EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH>
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
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76257.3632@compuserve.com wrote:
> 
>     I don't think it's as complicated as you believe.  The confusion comes
> in distinguishing between the way we calculate and the way we subjectively
> think and visualize.

Thank you for this posting. It was a pleasure to read.

> Most people just never
> develop an "eye" for metric dimensions (in my generation, anyway).


> I'll never visualize a millimeter or centimeter accurately without thinking
> in inches first, and a meter is easier only because it's a bit more than a yard.
>

If you really want to get more familiar with metric sizes, I suggest you to have a 
metric ruler. Or perhaps a caliper.

 
>     Trying to switch the other way (from metric)would no doubt be a
> nightmare, but it's not quite as bad as you suspected.   If you can
> deal with inches and feet, and handle eighths and sixteenths, you're all set.
> Ignore the yards.  In fact, ignore the fractions and stick to decimals
> (e.g. 3.35 in. or even 3.65 feet) and you'll usually be fine.  Any engineer
> or technician you deal with is doing the same anyway.

Yes we do. In the electronics all sizes were until the recent times all inch. All 
integrated circuit and connector pinouts, board layouts etc. A REAL nightmare was 
when I encountered in the '80s East German ICs where the pinout was 2.5mm instead of 
.1" (2.54mm). First you don't recognize the difference, but at a 40 pin IC the 
difference grow up to .76mm, 0.03 inch. Big enough not to fit into the socket!



>     Why are there Troy ounces and avoirdupois (?) ounces?
> Why do we have drams and grains?  Fathoms?  Why is a Ton 2000 pounds?
> (because it's a hundred stone?)

The biggest problems for me are the pressure units. Even the metric system uses two 
of them: Pascal, which is Newton per square meter, a very small unit. Even if you 
blow out a candle, you pressurize the air to several Pascals. More common is the 
Bar, which is 100000 Pascal. This is really very close to the atmospheric pressure, 
thus a quite handy unit. But it is not compatible with the kilo-, mega- etc. system, 
as it is 100 kilopascal, or 0.1 Megapascal ! Hard to compare however with psi 
anyway.

Another complicated calculation is if a metric guy speaks about the fuel consumption 
of his car as liters for 100 kilometers. Try to change this to miles per gallons. 
And there are two gallons :-)

BTW even the most continental (:-)) countries use some rests of the inch system. In 
most countries the bike wheel size is given in inches, and the gas and water tubing 
uses both inch size tubes and threads (Witworth). 

>    None of it makes sense, but I have $10,000 worth of tools in inches
> and when I have to work on metric fasteners, it takes me four tries
> to grab the right metric wrench, so I hope I'm long gone when we finally
> switch over completely.

Just a rule of thumb (not always true): the standard wrench size is apr. 1.6x thread 
size: M3 - 5.5mm (the only half mm!), M4 - 7mm, M5 - 8mm, M6 - 10mm, M8 - 13mm. 
Unfortunately this is not true for bikes, I don't know why, and for some Japanese 
cars.

>     One question for you:  a millimeter is tiny, and a centimeter is very small.
> A meter is very large.  You need something in between.  Do you
> use decimeters?  Probably not, I guess.

Forget about please. The first thing we learnt on the Technical University was: 


"In the metalworking and similar industry we ONLY use millimeters !!!"
----------------------------------------------------------------------


(Centimeter is something for taylors, architects and carpenters.)

I have copies of several steam engines from the last century. Even their length is 
given in millimeters !!! (like 17,876mm)


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline Capabilities
Date: 25 Sep 1996 00:31:30 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <529uh2$kij@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny14-19.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Sep 24  7:31:30 PM CDT 1996

A while ago, someone was asking how heavy a cut the SHERLINE is capable
of taking. I have always answered that as long as you use the machine
the way it was intended, you won't have any trouble with it.

My usual response is that we Normally take cuts of .010 - .020" in
steel.I was confident that the machien would take .030" in steel with
little trouble ( .060 diameter reduction ) And we keep it about the
same for non-ferrous. I got to thinking that I really never tried to
take a really deep cut with our SHERLINE equipment. 
So last night I took a piece of CRS and a Piece of 0-1 tool steel and
did a little experiment.

CRS - .100" cut ( .200" diameter reduction ) HSS tool, No Lubricant -
Satisfactory results. Actually, a pretty nice finish if the truth be
told. Low Speed and Feed, but it cut the metal and maintained dimension
for the le
ngth of the cut ( Approximately .500") The motor never stalled, and the
cutter was probably capable of taking another .030" ( although it is MY
equipment and I didn't think that I needed to prove anything more.)

0-1 tool Steel .050" cut ( .100 diameter reduction ) HSS tool, 1 drop
of Tapmatic Natural on tool . 
Some chatter in the beginning, but adjusting the speed and feed, the
chatter pretty well resolved and the cut was made. Decent finish for a
cut this deep, but a noticeable amount of springback when withdrawing
the tool. A second light  pass cleaned up the piece and held dimension.

I quit there, I don't sacrifice my non ferrous that readily! Anyway,
now I know what the SHERLINE can really do ( although I personally
would not make cuts this deep) For Roughing, have at it, the machine
will do the deed. I may try with the inserted carbide Valenite tooling
and see if the results are significantly diffferent.

Now I can go back to using the machine the way I usually do.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!realtime.net!jolt.pagesat.net!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <Dy9FqG.1L8@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <527kr2$vke@news.myriad.net> <AE6DC114-B0B184@204.249.164.135>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 23:25:27 GMT
Lines: 15

In article <AE6DC114-B0B184@204.249.164.135>,
Randolph Lee <r.lee@windshadow.com> wrote:
>                     ... reclamp one more time and now clamp the xslide to
>an angle plate and very carefuly centering in each gib hole (or you can
>make a spin in drill bushing to fit the gib threads) and seting the depth
>of drilling you spot in each gib screw hole for the point of the gib
>screw...

It'd be a good idea to pin the gib in place with a dowel pin before
this last step.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what is M300 Steel?
Date: 25 Sep 1996 15:06:07 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 12
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References: <528t9l$cdi@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

I know of a steel called 300M that is pretty much the same as 4340 steel,
that is, a heat-treatable, decently tough, alloy steel.

> I've been reading about gears made from M300 but can't find out 
> what it is.
> 
> Any info would be helpful.
> 
> Joe Davis

-- 
Rich Klopp


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: machine coolant
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I tried straight antifreeze in my Keller hacksaw last winter. It didn't
freeze, but I DID get rust. Now I'm using a water soluble oil. I need to
add that antifreeze, now that it's getting cold...

Danny wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine has asked me why he couldn't use just water and automotive
> anti-freeze in his mill.  he wants to keep coolant in his mills base, but
> he doesn't keep heat in his building much during the winter.  Is it
> possible to use anti-freeze as a coolant?  I know it has anti-rust an lubes
> for pump seals, so why shouldn't it work?  I have had never give it much
> thought as I keep mine heated during the winter an use regular coolant.
> whats everybody's opinion?
> danny

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From dilligan@cco.caltech.edu Fri Sep 27 16:13:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!corn.cso.niu.edu!gannett.math.niu.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!dilligan
From: dilligan@cco.caltech.edu (Matthew Dilligan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: 24 Sep 1996 18:02:26 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <5297ni$msb@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: accord.cco.caltech.edu

I'm the foreman of a student run machine shop here on campus and we're looking
to acquire a set of air tools (much lower walk-off potential than electric) 
such as a die grinder, air drill, impact wrench, etc. I've been glancing 
through the ENCO catalog and they seem to have pretty good prices but I'm 
wondering that the long term durability of there tools is. Price is definitely
a factor for us but we would rather spend more on a tool which would stay 
useful longer. Are there any other places we should look (MSC, M-C)?

Matt Dilligan
Foreman, Caltech Student Shop


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 24 Sep 1996 23:40:00 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <52747b$a9e@test-sun.erols.com>, Reginald barron
<barronr@mail.erols.com> writes:

>Anybody have an address or phone number for Metal Lathe 
>Accessories?  Is it in the FAQ?
>
>

I responded to the original of this with a similar request but my mail was
returned with an unknown address. I would still like to find out abou MLA.

Peter


From tcarter@csir.co.za Fri Sep 27 16:13:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!quagga.ru.ac.za!und.ac.za!peacenjoy.mikom.csir.co.za!csir.co.za!tcarter
From: tcarter@csir.co.za (Tim Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 07:19:09 Local
Organization: CSIR
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <tcarter.63.002144CE@csir.co.za>
References: <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
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In article <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
>From: ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.)
>Subject: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
>Date: 22 Sep 1996 18:40:43 GMT

<snip>Problem #2: I also found an auto supply that sells battery
>acid.  Trouble is they don't list the strength of the acid.  The
>precautions on the box are pretty severe...I suspect that the
>acid may be way over 10% solution.

Yes, it is. SG Should be around 1.2, about 30%.
 
>how to make a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.


>   Regards, Chet Roberts
>P.S. We've had heavy rain...phone line connections are pretty
>noisey...please forgive any gibberish....

Get yourself a hydrometer, Chet, and dilute battery acid to an SG of 1.066 for 
a concentration of 10%.

Remember to add acid to water, never, never the other way round, stir 
continuously, wear goggles and keep a supply of fresh water handy in case of 
accidents.

regards

tim

"My opinions are my own and other usual disclaimers."



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:13:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.stealth.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyAHJ3.53y@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <52747b$a9e@test-sun.erols.com> <52a9ig$12p@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 13:01:51 GMT
Lines: 25

In article <52a9ig$12p@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
PnP Nolan <pnpnolan@aol.com> wrote:
>In article <52747b$a9e@test-sun.erols.com>, Reginald barron
><barronr@mail.erols.com> writes:
>>Anybody have an address or phone number for Metal Lathe 
>>Accessories?  Is it in the FAQ?
>
>I responded to the original of this with a similar request but my mail was
>returned with an unknown address. I would still like to find out abou MLA.

Metal Lathe Accessories
Box 88
Pine Grove, PA  16868

tel: 814-234-3543

The owner is Andy Lofquist, a really nice guy.  I've done quite a lot
of business with him and plan to do more in the future (I'll be
getting one of the early filing machines).  He really is easy to do
business with.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tailstock turrets - any opionions?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 23:47:22 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 35
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <527fs8$rk2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, skarsaune@aol.com
(Skarsaune) writes:

>Penn Tool catalog was a beast called a Tailstock turret - basically a 6
>position
>round turret mounted on a Morse Taper shank.
>  Any body have any experience with one of these? Are they worthwhile?
>My main concern would be the indexing accuracy from one tool to the next.
>
>

I bought one from Grizzly and if you want it then pay $20 and the freight
and it is yours. The indexing is reasonably accurate and repeatable but
the tooling must be held in the six holes with adapters you need to make
yourself.

These holes range in tolerance from .623 to .628. This means you need a
seperate adapter for each of the six holes unless you are happy with 0.005
offset when clamping the set screws up.

The worst problem I encountered with it was that it was not 'on center'
with the spindle. 

It is a real pain in the ass to align the rotaional positioning so that
you can actually index the thing around without hitting the saddle or the
bed ways. Often I had to slide the tail stock off the end of the bed,
index to the next position and then repeat for each tool. Toooooo hard.

As well as all of that,  it was not very rigid as it hangs out a long way
>from  the tailstock.

Make my day and send me the $20+ and I will even include four or five
adaptors I made for various things from #8 tapping drills to #F clearance.

Peter


From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 22:24:21 +0000
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32485F95.4828@ix.netcom.com>
References: <01bba6a5$139ea7c0$35cfb7c7@johnnico>
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John Nicol wrote:
> 
> It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
> grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
> uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
> tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
> can be had for under $200.
> 
> Why don't we make up a wooden pattern and have a dozen main bodies cast up?
>  If we can agree on which bearings to use :).  I would'nt mind putting in a
> little CAD time to help draw it up.  Any takers?
> 
> John Nicol                      jnicol@ix.netcom.com


If you're interested in a tool post grinder in kit form, Metal Lathe 
Accessories used to have a beauty, with a Baldor variable speed motor 
included...

Mike


From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB:  Shaper vise for Elliot 10M Shaper
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 22:27:21 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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I am looking to buy an original vise for an Elliot 10M Shaper.  Any 
leads would be much appreciated.

Mike Patrick


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: 25 Sep 1996 05:36:15 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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The ENCO air tools will last almost long enough to, for example, refinish a car (in 
the case of the sanders).  None of their air tools are built for commercial use (few 
are).

If you want longetivity, buy Ingersoll-Rand, Sun, Detroit Pneumatic, or some other 
high quality and (somewhat) high cost brand.

Not only do the high-quality tools last longer, they work better from the outset.

Best regards,
Mike Rehmus




From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 24 Sep 1996 18:41:20 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 58
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References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <528uts$qo8@news-2.csn.net>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Sep 24  1:41:20 PM CDT 1996

In <528uts$qo8@news-2.csn.net> cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard) writes:

>
>Well I could have spent $2000 on a German lathe or the $1000 I did
spend
>on a Grizzly.  For a few hours work I was able to make it perform
almost
>as well - maybe it won't last as long but I don't need it to. I was
able

This "disposable thinking" bothers me. Are you saying that you are
never going to use your lathe after the job at hand is done? I don't
think so. I understand that sometimes we are in a position where we
need something right away and settle for less than quality. But in the
long run everything suffers. the quality of your work suffers due to
the inferior tool it was made on, your reputation suffers because of
the inferior product you produced etc.

For $1000.00 you could have probably called Dave at Meridian or another
machinery dealer and bought a used "good" lathe that would have
outperformed the crappy import that you are now saddled with.

Don't get me wrong, I own an import Mill/Drill that has given excellent
service since its purchase ( I bought an MSC variety - seems that their
import machinery is a cut above some of the identical "looking"
machines that are out there.) So I am not entirely opposed to using
something from the Asian block. But we knew what we were getting when
we bought it so there were no surprises. We were fortunate to be
located where we could go to MSC and see the machien before hand and
make our purchase based on our own criteria. Not possible when ordering
mail order. Additionally, I don't mind letting a new guy use the Mill/
Drill while no one touches the Bridgeport if you catch my drift.

Scott Logan is correct when he says that if we all demand better, we'll
get it. It's hard to stay in business if no one buys your product. the
stiff coming out of Asia ranges from pretty good for the money ( MSC )
to downright criminal ( some of the early Shoptask machines were
$1200.00 worth of scrap iron.)


As far as Snap-On goes, there is a case of complete overkill as far as
pricing. Snap-On has no qualms about taking something that retails in
its generic form for $100.00 and putting it in a Snap-On box and
charging $300.00 for it. ( Buy a set of their tap extractors sometime,
Wilton sells the same set ( at MSC ) for $39.00 Snap-On over $100.00)

A friend of mine needed a set of test leads for a job he was woring on.
The Snap0-On dealer was at his shop and he (without thinking ) said "
give me a set". For $38.00, the Snap-On dealer sold him a set of test
leads that you can buy at Radio Shack for $5.99 - Whew!
Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com/







From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Fri Sep 27 16:14:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Danny" <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: machine coolant
Date: 25 Sep 1996 04:58:26 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
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A friend of mine has asked me why he couldn't use just water and automotive
anti-freeze in his mill.  he wants to keep coolant in his mills base, but
he doesn't keep heat in his building much during the winter.  Is it
possible to use anti-freeze as a coolant?  I know it has anti-rust an lubes
for pump seals, so why shouldn't it work?  I have had never give it much
thought as I keep mine heated during the winter an use regular coolant.
whats everybody's opinion?
danny


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 25 Sep 1996 05:47:03 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <52ah0n$p7v@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
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In <52a5f0$s17@newsbf02.news.aol.com> pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
writes: 
[snip]
>
>Er, excuse me? Just which car or cars are you referring to?? The
quality
>of US cars is still back in the dark ages when you compare
performance,
>effiiency and enconomy of *any* European makes. The US makers are good
at
>adding gadgets like power seats and a driver profile, but what about
HP
>and economy??
>
>Peter

Peter:

 Excuse me? I don't suppose that you ever drove a Quad 4. As much as I
am a Chevy Shop, you are never going to see performance from an import
like that of a 5.o Mustang. and still get 24 mpg if you drive nice. 

Stomp on a Lexus and see the gas gauge drop like my Amtrak stock. If
you're so inclined to a smaller car, I'd put a Saturn up against
anything Japan has to offer. talk about customer satisfaction? Just ask
a Saturn owner if they are happy with their dealer. Technology found in
American cars today is quite impressive. Oldsmobile is a leader in
extracting power and economy from their motors.

Your comments may have held up as recently as 5 or 6 years ago, but not
today.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Fri Sep 27 16:14:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 25 Sep 1996 13:46:46 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <52bd46$3ar@tin.monsanto.com>
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p>I responded to the original of this with a similar request but my mail was
>returned with an unknown address. I would still like to find out abou MLA.
>
>Peter


Per an ad on page 67 of the current HSM:

Metal Lathe Accessories
Box 88
Pine Grove Mills, PA 16868

(No phone number given)

Roger Weppelman



From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Best beginner book on blacksmithing?
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T&A wrote:
> 
> Hi--
> 
> I just saw a demo of blacksmithing at my local historical museum and think,
> "my that's neat!"  Maybe I can build a combo BBQ/furnace for the backyard!?
> Anyways, I need a decent intro book.  Anyone have suggestions?

The books that I think are great for a beginner are by Alexander Weygers
(The Modern Blacksmith, The Making of Tools, The Recycling, Reuse, and
Repair of Tools). They are very practical and get you going immediately
(keep the enthusiasm up). 

An excellent book with more depth is "The Edge of the Anvil", by Jack
Andrews.

The Weygers books are probably out of print. Andrew's book is in print.
Norm Larson Books carries the Andrew's book:
larbooks@seldon.terminus.com

You will learn blacksmithing MUCH faster if you work with someone. The
more skill the other person has, the better, but you will learn much
faster even if the other person has less skill than yourself. While the
other person works, you get to watch what they are doing and learn.
While you work, you don't have time for anything but hitting that metal. 

Get involved with your local blacksmithing organization. Subscribe to
the email list theforge:
 send the message:           subscribe
 to:                         listproc@wugate.wustl.edu
Put a question out on theforge asking who the local contact is for
smithing (include the town where you live!).

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: 25 Sep 1996 05:39:20 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <52agi8$jff@news1.svc>
References: <5297ni$msb@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
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N.B.  Replace Sun in my previous reply with Snap-On (or Snap-Off).  Sorry, Jim, I know 
they overcharge for a lot of things but their air tools can even stand up to my 
son-in-law's work in maintaining a fleet of trucks.  It has to be good if it can do 
that!

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 25 Sep 1996 02:43:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
>that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
>received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
>would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
>pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.

I wrote that article in HSM after I had owned the lathe for some time. I
guess I was foolish to continue with it but I to use it daily. Since Jet
had replaced a bent one with one with bent parts I figured it was about as
good as could get from Jet.

>If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
>quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
> We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

Er, excuse me? Just which car or cars are you referring to?? The quality
of US cars is still back in the dark ages when you compare performance,
effiiency and enconomy of *any* European makes. The US makers are good at
adding gadgets like power seats and a driver profile, but what about HP
and economy??

Peter

PS I am currently looking to buy a Logan or a SB lathe and small shaper.





From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 02:51:42 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 11
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

> or from MSC
       ^^^^^^^^^^^
I keep hearing about MSC, can someone give me an 800 number or a fax
number to call for a catalog.

TIA

Peter


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: 25 Sep 1996 02:48:01 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 29
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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In article <526si2$oij@buffnet2.buffnet.net>, krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt
Rieder) writes:

>It would seem that the creators of letter and number drill series
>were marching to a different drummer.  What's the rational behind the
>step size in each series ?  It's obvious in both inch and metric drills.
> 

Errr, scuse me but...Aren't number and letter drills British Standard Wire
Gauge? If so, then where is the problem with E being 0.2500? Or perhaps we
should have the wire sizes range as... A, B, C, D, 1/4" F, G, H... <grin>

The rationale behind the sizes, I would suspect, has more to do with
cross-sectional area of the wire (and it's strength/moment of inertia etc)
rather than a uniform increment or step between the sizes. I doubt it was
a blatant attemp at a disordered range of drills.

Number drills are invaluable for replacing worn pins in all manner of
things. I often need to replace pins when accurizing competition hand guns
where the hole has worn a few thou. I use the next size up number or
letter drill and providing the straight shank portion of the drill is long
enough, I cut it off and use it as the pin. Perfect fit every time. At
$0.30 a piece I can make lotsa pins for not much money.

A competiton Hammer can cost $30+ to replace just because the hole is
worn. Not in my shop, since I have to ream and fit tighter pins anyway,
the number and letter drills hold a place of great use with me.

Peter


From davep@nwinfo.net Fri Sep 27 16:14:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.alt.net!news1.alt.net!news.aa.net!usenet
From: dave poling <davep@nwinfo.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 23:44:18 -0700
Organization: Alternate Access Incorporated
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3248D4C2.2C97@nwinfo.net>
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
> : On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
> : about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
> : months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1.
> : I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
> : work.  Anyone else try this?


	This really shocks me as "Home Shop Machinist" is normally pretty good
about projects and safety.
	There is nothing worse than doing a job with our approiate tools and
safety as a high priority.
	If a person has to get a job done, then use the right tools. If you do
not them, then take it to a machine shop and get it done or you may be
using a pencil in your mouth to type your next message.
	As to your attempt to cut steel or even considering such a thing
because it printed in an artical. Question these instead of assuming
that it will work because some one wrote it.
	Carbide is very brital and will chip and crack when having interupted
cuts.
	One of the most important factors is cutting metal is rigidity and
apporiate cutting speeds and feeds (a circular saw for wood fails in all
catagories).
	If you desire to try something that you have not done before, take your
time and evaluate what it is, or post a message and find out what others
may think.
	Dont give up safety, just to get something done.
	Good luck in your projects..


From carl@scott.net Fri Sep 27 16:14:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.inc.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-8.sprintlink.net!news.scott.net!usenet
From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bib seat reamer or dresser
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 02:55:43 GMT
Organization: Scott Network Services, Inc.
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32489c6d.35344394@news.scott.net>
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On Mon, 23 Sep 1996 17:37:15 -0300, stewart cooper <scooper@atcon.com> wrote:

>ERich10983 wrote:
>> 
>> I recently helped a friend clean out his fathers home.  Along with useful
>> goodies from Starett and other brands was a small tool in the origional
>> box was a Keystone Bibb seat reamer.  Its about 2 inches long, 1 1/2
>> inches dia for the large diameter, tapering to 1/2 inch at the small dia.
>> It has an external and internal spiral thread.  Its hollow to receive a
>> shaft that has one of four rosette cutters screwed on the end.  What is
>> this thing?    Earleit sounds like a valve seat reamer for engine heads with none hardend 
>seats,the type of head used before unleaded gas .I think. My father has 
>a set and I think they are made by keystone. Does it have a piot to fit 
>in the valve stem bore?


   It sounds like what you may have there is a tool used to reseat faucet
bodies, (hose bibs). 

   These are used to "mill" the area down inside of an outside type faucet, that
the washer seats against.  If a faucet is allowed to leak the seat will be
damaged an it will need refacing.  The tapered, (usually stepped) part is used
to locate the main shaft in the center of the valve stem bore, and the rosettes
are actually a type of end mill.

   BTW these are seldom used any more because, as with so many things now days,
it is usually cheaper to replace a faucet than to repair it.


                                                         Carl Grinnell
                                                         carlgrin@scott.net



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:14:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microsoft "Internet Explorer" problem with THIS n
Message-ID: <1996Sep25.113910.25114@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Sep 96 11:39:09 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <01bbaa8c$ac8d37e0$50263ece@radix.wwnet.com>, "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com> writes:
|>I don't get it.  I'm using Microsoft's "Internet Explorer" to read the
|>postings on this news group.  But unlike any other group I read, ALL of the
|>messages are flagged as "read", even though I haven't!  Any ideas about
|>what is up?

It certainly can't be anything with the newsgroup itself, it would have to
be with your news server and/or your PC.  What usually happens is that a
news reader will remember what newsgroups exist, which you've registered
an interest in ("subscribed" though I dislike the term), and which articles
you have read.  In the Unix world this is done with a "resource file" called
".newsrc".  If the resource file says you've already read articles
1 through 1234, then any article with a number less than 1234 will either
not be displayed at all, or will be displayed as "already been read."

It sounds like your resource file (or whatever "Internet Explorer" uses
to do the same thing) is out of sync with your news server.  This could
happen if you switch news servers.  For example if you used to read news
via the server here at UW (no, you can't!), your article is number 34712.
If you switch to a different news server, one that hasn't carried r.c.m.
>from  the beginning, the most recent article on *that* server might be
number 5874.  But your resource file still thinks that you've read everything
between 1 and 34712!

Another possibility is that at one point in time the server was fouled, and
accidentally listed lots of articles that were later retracted, causing a
"regression" of the article numbers.  This would simply be bad management
of a news server.  Or maybe they crashed, lost lots of news, and picked up
at the point of the last backup, renumbering articles with old numbers.

If this speculation (resource file out of sync with server) is correct perhaps
there's a way to reset IE's "memory".  Or, the typical knee-jerk PC-world
reaction to any problem, "re-install your software!"

I hope this helps!  While not metalworking, I thought this might be of some
interest to the group.

Jim


From scooper@atcon.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!swrinde!hookup!news.nstn.ca!thor.atcon.com!usenet
From: stewart cooper <scooper@atcon.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Using all-purpose cutting disks on power mitre box
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 15:30:55 -0300
Organization: Atlantic Connect
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Donald S. Meyers wrote:
> 
> I would like to see information on using one of those cut-off disks that
> are advertised for cutting tile, metal , etc on a power mitre box. What are
> the pros and cons, safety aspects, etc, when cutting steel rod, aluminum,
> SAE grade bolt material, stainless steel, etc. When can this be used in
> place of a metal cutting bandsaw and when not? Is this a safer alternative
> to the Carbide blade thread discussion currently going on?
> 
> Cheers, Don
> --
> Donald S. Meyers
> 
> I am not sure that your miter box would have the speed or the power to 
run them but you can try one. watch for over heating also the higher the 
speed the better they cut the longer they last. they will cut any thing 
but they leave a bigger bure on the bottem. safty, dust mask, safty 
glasses and a face sheld are a not bad idea. I build SS tanks and do 
about 50% of my cutting with cutting disks of on sort or anther


From IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET Fri Sep 27 16:14:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!news.gtn.com!RRZ.Uni-Koeln.DE!news.dfn.de!news.kfa-juelich.de!djukfa11!iff161
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:43:21 +02
From: Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Message-ID: <96269.104321IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Number and Letter drills
Lines: 20

These systems seem a bit arbitrary but they are anything but!  The drill sizes
are based on wire gauges and I am a bit familiar with the copper wire gauge.
The steps maintain a fairly constant ratio of one size to the next larger size,
say, a 25% increase in cross-section with each smaller number.  For most
applications this makes far more sense than keeping the step sizes constant
without regard to the dimension of the wire or drill.
    In the case of the copper wire gauges, you can express the sizes by a
formula, and the series is logarithmic, as you can see from the above rule
for constucting the next larger size from the one before it.  The sizes look
arbitrary because that is how logs look!!!
   I find my set of mumber drills a great addition to the metric drills, to
fill in a gap which takes an unusual metric dimension not in the standard
series which maintains 0.1 mm steps whether the drill is 1.0 mm or 10.0 mm in
diameter. (You can get the intermediate sizes, on special order, but how does
that help the rush job?)
     Though I write about the copper wire series, no doubt the other gauge
sizes follow the same logic but with a different formula.  The engineers who
set up the definitions of the gauges were neither arbitrary, nor dumb.
  Bob



From carl@scott.net Fri Sep 27 16:14:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: carl@scott.net (Carl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: letter & number drills
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 04:17:47 GMT
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On 23 Sep 1996 20:39:29 GMT, krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder) wrote:

>Charles Snell (crsnell@interlog.com) wrote:
>
>: If you look at a drill and tap chart you will find that there are several 
>: letter drills used with standard size taps, hence the reason for their 
>: existance. Yes, the letter and number drills fill in the gaps between the 
>: fractional drills, and are where you have to go if you want to drill for 
>: a close clearance, etc.
>
>Well... that might explain a use for just a very few of the letter and
>number drills.  What about the rest of them ?  Filling the gaps doesn't
>nearly begin to explain it.... 1/128 inch fractional drill stemps might
>have done it better.  And... look at the conflicts...
>    1/4 inch and letter E are both 0.2500
>    1/32 and #68.... 3/32 and #42.... 9/64 and #28.... 9/32 and K....
>    etc, and many more, are 0.0002 or less apart in size... not enough 
>    to be of any significance.... not to me, anyway.
>It would seem that the creators of letter and number drill series
>were marching to a different drummer.  What's the rational behind the
>step size in each series ?  It's obvious in both inch and metric drills.

   The different drill sizing systems were indeed created by people marching to
different drummers.

   Fractional drills are obviously sized by dividing intervals in half: eg. 1/32
is one half of 1/16, etc..

   Number drill sizes derive from numbered wire sizes.  Back before the era of
precision measurements each manufacturer had his own system of measurement, (if
he had a known good part he could make one like it). This applied to wire as
well as other products.  The wire drawer would know how he had made the
drawplates for a given batch of wire and could do a good job of duplicating them
when they wore out.  Anyone else would have a harder time duplicating the wire
sizes.  As a result each manufacturer offered a different set of wire sizes that
he felt would cover all needs.  Wire sizes were often called after the number of
the draw plate used for the final draw, ( a number 10 wire was last drawn on the
number 10 plate in a given manufacturers series).  The wire was drawn through
one plate after another to reduce it.  As the wire got smaller the amount of
reduction between sizes became less and less because the wire could stand less
and less strain before it would break. Thus the wire number was often an
indication of how many reduction steps it took to make it.

   Some common wire series are the B&S series,( which I think stand for either
Brown & Stubbs or Briggs & Stubbs)., AWG (American Wire Gage), and the Stubbs.
At one time there were probably many other series, just as there were once over
100 automobile manufacturers in the US.

   Ultimately drills made from the wire drawn to one particular set of standards
won the day and thus we have number drills.

   The Letter Drills  were an attempt by one, fairly sucessful manufacturer, to
differentiate his product by using letters instead of numbers and reversing the
order of progression, going from small to big.  I say "fairly sucessful" because
the system is still with us.

  
                                                               Carl Grinnell

carlgrin@scott.net


From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:14:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?  Re: Metric system in the USA?  > I got used to having two sets of wrenches  > years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly  > well.....    Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.  Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric   system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric world   too.Peter Brooks wrote:    > I got us
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:14:56 GMT
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Louis JOURDAN <ljourdan@pratique.fr> wrote:

>Well, even in France, the birthplace of the metric system, bike wheel
>sizes are given in inches. My Mercier mountain bike has 26 inches
>wheels.

That's because mountain biking drifted to europe from the US. The
bikes became the fashion and with it its US terminology. That's the
way to make a standard! Officially there is a different ('metric')
size naming convention in europe.
The problem with the inch tyre size system is that it's inconvenient.
A 27" tyre has a larger outside diameter than a 28", also different
28" tyres need not to fit onto the same rim. That's why years ago bike
manufacturers (at least the european and I believe also the japanese)
went over to the ERTRO system, in which the tyre is designated by its
'inner' diameter, its width and height. No more confusion which tyre
fits which rim. These dimensions are printed on the side of each tyre
(admittedly, the size in the inch system is also still printed there).

IMHO the type of standard is irrelevant as long as it's uniquely
defined, measurable (and related to the important dimensions of the
product) and the same around the world. Preferable is that it's also
easy to use, so errors will be rare (that's why I like the SI/metric
system).

Honoré.





From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Canadian Built Standard Modern Lathes
Date: 25 Sep 1996 10:48:40 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Standard Modern (Kestrel Machine Tools Inc.) had their lathes on display 
at IMTS '96.  In the short time I had to look, the machines looked pretty 
well done.

Has anyone out there had experience with the 13 X 40, 13 X 34, or 
Standard Modern in general?  I would like to hear your comments as to 
quality, fit & finish, and accuracy.

Thanks.

Chuck Kuhn



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: 24 Sep 1996 15:29:56 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 9
Distribution: world
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Don't remember when, but within the past few years someone
had an article in HSM, PIM, or LS tha t suggested the use of 
cutting a strip out of a xccarbide circular saw blade to use as 
a parting tool.  That 7" slitting saw sure sounded impressive.
I still may try i t.

Paul in AJ AZ




From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:54:47 -0700
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SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:


>Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
>THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!

Ahh, the mighty dollar speaks .... pay when you buy or pay when you
fix but pay you must :)

> Look what happened to the auto industry.
> We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

Excuuuuse me .... my Ford F250 is CERTAINLY NOT an example of that !!!
(but it is a good example of what could be produced in China)

Jens


From browen@aoc.nrao.edu Fri Sep 27 16:14:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: browen@aoc.nrao.edu (Bruce Rowen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: 23 Sep 1996 21:45:15 GMT
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
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Wal-Mart has a good selection of spray epoxy paints. These are sometimes
called "appliance" paint since they are used for touching up the tough
paint found on washing machines and refridgerators. You can ge black, white
and even that nice pea green color.
I feel it is the best spray can paint available. It takes several days
to dry and must be sprayed in warm temps. Use very light coats and be 
warned that it runs very easily if sprayed on too thick.

-Bruce



In article <524g9i$bef@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome) writes:
>cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca (Christopher Lau) wrote:
>
>>George Edwards (gedwards@onramp.net) wrote:
>The most durable paint I've ever found are epoxy based paints..
>Better than
>>any enamel I've found, but takes more than a week at fairly well controlled
>>temperatures and humidity to dry and cure.  Unfortunately they're hard to
>>find in most areas, but their features include: self priming on most surfaces,
>>resistant to oils and grease and most other chemicals, as well as being tough
>>as nails (these paints are normally used for painting guns and gun parts that
>>are unbluable by normal means, so they'd better well be tough and chemical
>>resistant).  I've only managed to find three sources- Brownell's Alumahyde II
>>Canadian Tire Roll Bar paint, and some varieties of boat paints.  The first
>>two are only available in black, the boat paint in white (but you should be
>>able to add pigment to it).
>
>Try Rust-Oleum's water based epoxies, available from Grainger or most
>any industrial supply. Good stuff to work with, and not nearly as
>toxic as most fume-wise. I've used quite a bit of it in meat packing
>house work.
>
>Phil Crome
>


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Rowen 				National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Scientific Programmer				Array Operations Center
browen@aoc.nrao.edu			  P.O. Box O  Socorro, NM   87801
(505)835-7329					     (505)835-7000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------




From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:14:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
Date: 23 Sep 1996 11:55:38 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 23
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 10/30/96
Message-ID: <526mfa$f37@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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In article <520mif$elk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
PnP Nolan <pnpnolan@aol.com> wrote:
>Perhaps you should read my article in the current issue of Home Shop
>Machinist for my experience with a JET lathe. So much for Swiss quality if
>they really are owned by a Swiss company.
>
>Peter

Thanks, Peter, for submitting it to them, and kudos to them for
printing an honest review. I have generally given up on magazine
product reviews as they seem to be influenced by the size of the
advertiser's budget. In some magazines, I have seen the product
reviewed in editorial space directly adjacent to the advertisment.
Perhaps this will signal a new direction for HSM.


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Sep 27 16:14:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeeder.sdsu.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!newshub.csu.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU!not-for-mail
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Jet JMD-18PF Mill/Drill -- Opinions Please.
Date: 23 Sep 1996 12:13:41 -0700
Organization: California State University, Fresno
Lines: 27
Sender: Greg Lewis
Expires: 10/31/96
Message-ID: <526nh5$hjc@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu

In article <520mif$elk@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
PnP Nolan <pnpnolan@aol.com> wrote:
>Perhaps you should read my article in the current issue of Home Shop
>Machinist for my experience with a JET lathe. So much for Swiss quality if
>they really are owned by a Swiss company.
>
>Peter


Thanks, Peter, for submitting your experience to them, and kudos to
them for printing an honest review. I have generally lost faith in
magazine product reviews, as the objectivity of said review seems to
be inversely proportional to the size of the advertiser's budget. Some
magazine publishers place the review on the same page as the
advertisement. I hope HSM will continue with objective reviews as this
is genuinely useful information.

[If my previous, albeit cancelled, post escaped to your site, I did
not intend to imply that HSM was one of those who had objectivity
problems. But my comment could have been read that way.]
___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010



From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:14:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!latcha
From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Capabilities
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:50:11 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 63
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In-Reply-To: <529uh2$kij@dfw-ixnews7.ix.netcom.com> 

Thanks, Jim, for your experiment and for posting the results.  It should 
help to answer the questions many seem to have about the capabilities of 
the Sherline equipment and it saves me from performing a similar 
experiment of my own!

A word about a project in progress:  a graduate student here needed a
hydrophone (a microphone that works in liquids) but could not find a
commercial one that had the sensitivity she needed.  Another problem is
that good hydrophones with her specs go for $1000-$3000.  She found a
drawing in a paper of one that should do the job.  A little measuring, a
little reverse engineering, a bit of 303 stainless hex stock and 4 hours
on my Sherline lathe and we have the start of a super sensitive 
hydrophone that should cost, when finished, about $200....

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 25 Sep 1996, J.A.Harvey wrote:

> A while ago, someone was asking how heavy a cut the SHERLINE is capable
> of taking. I have always answered that as long as you use the machine
> the way it was intended, you won't have any trouble with it.
> 
> My usual response is that we Normally take cuts of .010 - .020" in
> steel.I was confident that the machien would take .030" in steel with
> little trouble ( .060 diameter reduction ) And we keep it about the
> same for non-ferrous. I got to thinking that I really never tried to
> take a really deep cut with our SHERLINE equipment. 
> So last night I took a piece of CRS and a Piece of 0-1 tool steel and
> did a little experiment.
> 
> CRS - .100" cut ( .200" diameter reduction ) HSS tool, No Lubricant -
> Satisfactory results. Actually, a pretty nice finish if the truth be
> told. Low Speed and Feed, but it cut the metal and maintained dimension
> for the le
> ngth of the cut ( Approximately .500") The motor never stalled, and the
> cutter was probably capable of taking another .030" ( although it is MY
> equipment and I didn't think that I needed to prove anything more.)
> 
> 0-1 tool Steel .050" cut ( .100 diameter reduction ) HSS tool, 1 drop
> of Tapmatic Natural on tool . 
> Some chatter in the beginning, but adjusting the speed and feed, the
> chatter pretty well resolved and the cut was made. Decent finish for a
> cut this deep, but a noticeable amount of springback when withdrawing
> the tool. A second light  pass cleaned up the piece and held dimension.
> 
> I quit there, I don't sacrifice my non ferrous that readily! Anyway,
> now I know what the SHERLINE can really do ( although I personally
> would not make cuts this deep) For Roughing, have at it, the machine
> will do the deed. I may try with the inserted carbide Valenite tooling
> and see if the results are significantly diffferent.
> 
> Now I can go back to using the machine the way I usually do.
> 
> Jim Harvey
> jim@hre.com
> http://hre.com
> 
> 


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!depot.mro.dec.com!mrnews.mro.dec.com!not-for-mail
From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 12:30:33 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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3AT collets go up to 1/2".  They're available; I think MSC
may carry them, or you can get them from Hardinge Bros.,
possibly for more money than you would believe any collet
could cost, but the quality is excellent.

There is NO WAY to modify your lathe to take 5C!  You'd
have to bore out your spindle to have a 1.25" hole down
the center of it, which would most likely not leave much
spindle left....
I have seen screw-on adapters that will take 5C collets,
but they necessarily have quite a bit of overhang and of
course you can't put long stock down through the spindle.



From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 12:56:12 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <09960825074742.OUI09.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
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In article <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>, From 
jrro@watson.ibm.com, the following was written:
> 3C can be used in a 3AT machine

Incorrect.  A Collet, 5-C, 3-C, 3-AT or almost any other, makes contact
with the spindle or adapter in two places:  The front taper AND the back
bearing diameter. Otherwise the collet can be crooked.

According to the Hardinge catalog (a WONDERFUL reference tool), the 3-AT
has the following dimensions: Back Bearing Diameter .687, Thread
637-26, Length 2.313.  The 3-C has the following dimensions: Back
Bearing Diameter .650, Thread .640-26, Length 2.688.

And before anyone asks, the 5-C has the following dimensions: Back
Bearing Diameter 1.250, Thread 1.238-20, Length 3.281.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/25/96 07:56
 http://www.loganact.com




From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 12:56:47 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <09960825075340.OUI11.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <52akpu$6cd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

In article <52akpu$6cd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From pnpnolan@aol.com 
(PnP Nolan), the following was written:
> I keep hearing about MSC, can someone give me an 800 number or a fax
> number to call for a catalog.

>From  the FAQ:

 -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://www.industry.net/msc

      Their 95/96 catalog is 3325 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and
seem       to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US
800       numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above. 
Also,       their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and
need to       talk to somebody.
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/25/96 07:56
 http://www.loganact.com




From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Southbend 10K Taper Att.
Date: 25 Sep 1996 12:13:37 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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North Bay Machinery  Tel. 810-759-6014  in Warren Michigan, just received 
two SB10K lathes for parts, I noticed one was set up for a taper 
attachment, I don't know if all the parts are there, but it may be worth 
a call to Ray or Sam tell them Bob the fireman told you about the lathes.



From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:23:53 -0500
Organization: honeywell
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <32493269.3F07@htc.honeywell.com>
References: <527401$39u@test-sun.erols.com> <5247ft$ouf@nntp.igs.net> <Dy7zKv.44s@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Steve Rayner wrote:
> 
> Model Engineer Magazine also has plans for homemade lathes.
> During World War 2, Popular Mechanics Press published a book, called "
> Forty Power Tools You Can Make" witha mini lathe in it.
> 
> In a previous article, barronr@mail.erols.com (Reginald barron) says:
> 
> >keithclark@kw.igs.net (Keith J. Clark) wrote:
> >>I am looking for blueprints for a miniature lathe and milling machine
> >>that I could make myself.  Anyone know of a source?
> >>
> >>Keith
> >>
> >>keithclark@kw.igs.net
> >>
> >
> >
> >For a really low tech homemade (but very clever) one for
> >"light duty" miniatures the one by Nigel Cliffe and Peter
> >Clarkof the 2mm association (model trains) looks pretty good.
> >Try
> >
> > http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/fonly/fonlypt1.html

> --
> Steve.
> 
> **************  BE ALERT, THE WORLD NEEDS MORE LERTS ************************Yes!  The model makers lathe in that Popular Mechanics book is a gem!  I had one almost completed a few years ago 
when I got my Sherline.  I haven't worked on it since.  The only power tool I used was an electric drill mounted 
in a drill press stand.  The project is staged so that you build the ways and headstock first, after which you 
can use that for building the rest. 

In fact, that whole book was a super one.  If you can get ahold of a copy, it is super.
-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis


From walter.preg@erlangen.netsurf.de Fri Sep 27 16:14:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Walter Preg <walter.preg@erlangen.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Posting letters
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George, could it be possible that you did the same mistake like me when
I was new to net / news? I just got displayed the *unread* news by
my newsreader. I read a news and the next time I logged in the news
had disappeared. After some days fortunately I found the "show all msg./
only unread msg" switch in the "options" menu.
How long a news exists depends probably on your provider. I experienced
something from 1 to 4 weeks. Though if a provider don't do his job well
(internet is a very new media to many provider, too) also some problems
might happen (newsgroups disappear, no fresh news ...).
BTW, regarding that matters there are better newsgroups than r.c.m.
Regards, Walter


George Pearce wrote:
> 
> Hi;
>   I recently posted a letter about a backhoe I built, and have had some
> replies. I am new to groups on the net and was wondering how long a
> letter stays on the net, because mine was only there for about a day.
>                                Thanks,
>                                     G.P.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Chinese lathes headstock mod for alignment
Date: 25 Sep 1996 09:48:23 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <01bba9b8$c4229d20$55263ece@radix.wwnet.com>, "w.j.ward"
<radix@wwnet.com> writes:

>photo 2 (pg. 23) parallel to the headstock spindle.  (Setup for this
would
>be undeniably tricky for a novice like me.)  Then, I would somehow secure
a
>strip of brass in the slot.  Finally, I would cut a 90 degree V-groove to
>fit over the rear V on the lathe bed.
>
>

I had already considered that but decided that the alignment would be way
to tricky. Three alternatives...

1. Machine up a round shaft that is the same size as the spindle bearing
hole in the headstock casting and set it up on large Vee blocks on the
mill. True it up and slip the headstock over it and clamp the sucker. Much
too hard.

2. Mount the headstock vertically on parallels on the mill and bore the
spindle bearing hole true. Then using a horizontal attachment to the
milling machine head cut the slot for the insert vertically using the
knee. The insert would not need to be brass as it is fixed in position so
any old stuff would really do.

3. Buy a real lathe, which is what I plan to do this time.

Sometime you might like to ask me about my Harbor Freight Mill/Drill or my
Enco copy of a Kurtz vice. Seems like I am a very slow learner on a tight
budget.

In my own defense I will say that I tried desperately to locate a used SB
or a Myford before I bought the Jet. Would I buy another Jet or
Chinese/Taiwanese? Just don't ask if you don't like strong language.

Peter Nolan
Getting more wise but cash-poor with every passing day.


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 14:16:40 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <52bes8$1995@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
References: <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <09960825074742.OUI09.SLogan@gnn.com>
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In <09960825074742.OUI09.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) writes:
>In article <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>, From 
>jrro@watson.ibm.com, the following was written:
>> 3C can be used in a 3AT machine
>
>Incorrect.  A Collet, 5-C, 3-C, 3-AT or almost any other, makes contact
>with the spindle or adapter in two places:  The front taper AND the back
>bearing diameter. Otherwise the collet can be crooked.
>
> Scott Logan 

Actually, it can.  And I've done it.  But I didn't say that it was the most
accurate setup.  But many home hobby machine folks do things like this,
just so they can come close to the convenience that a collett setup
gives.

Yes, I had to make a new drawbar, and yes, the rear diameter of the 
collet was a bit undersized, but it would center up the workpiece
within a thousandth, even given the fact that the the collets were 
used when I got them.  

But compare - in one case I have to buy 16 brand new 3AT collets - 
which fit the spindle of the old Pratt & Whitney speed lathe to
perfection.

In the other case, I get a good deal on a bunch of used, but serviceable
3Cs - and spend a few hours to modify them (lengthen the slots)
and another few to manufacture a drawbar (which I would have had
to do otherwise - the machine came without one).  Result - an improved
machine which has all the accuracy to do the jobs I need it to do, at
a fraction of the cost.

Given the choice (and the money), of course go and buy the correct
collet.  But often this hobby is about making do with what one *has*
on hand.  Like the article about *making* your own collets in this
months HSM.  You might say not to do it, because they would not
be heat-treated, and the accuracy would be impaired - but for home
hobby use, that's not an issue.  But money always is.

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From tlipton@ccnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news.bconnex.net!news.ac.net!pacifier!mvb.saic.com!news.cerf.net!ccnet.com!usenet
From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: 25 Sep 1996 01:06:55 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
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"John Nicol" <nicol@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> It seems as if quite a few of us have considered building a tool post
> grinder.  It's hard to justify the cost of a new one for my hobby type
> uses.  I really don't see where the $800 or more goes for such a simple
> tool.  After all a good belt sander has about the same amount of parts and
> can be had for under $200.


 I contructed a tool post grinder earlier this year. The main spindle
contains two angular contact precision bearings. I machined a internal
taper and nut to fit a commercial precision collet. It is driven with
 a small cross section vee belt (approx .20" width) I used my 22,000 rpm 
3 hp plunge router to drive the whole works. I machined a step pulley 
with a half inch diameter shank to fit the collet of the router. 
My router has variable speed, and with the step pulleys I can use 
small mounted stones down to around a half inch in diameter without 
any trouble.

  TML



From dhills@onramp.net Fri Sep 27 16:14:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!newshost.convex.com!news.onramp.net!usenet
From: Dave Hills <dhills@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: German "Prazi" Machines?
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:33:16 -0500
Organization: DH Associates
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Does anyone buy, use, or have information, experience, or advice on the
German made "Prazi" machines?  I know they are not cheap, but are they
worth thier price?  I don't believe I have seen them mentioned here
before.

-- 
Dave Hills, P.E.
DH Associates
Electronic Power Supply Engineering
dhills@onramp.net



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: are there any foundries in Oregon?
Date: 25 Sep 1996 15:25:47 GMT
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In  Gas Engine Magazine (Stemgas Publishing-they do have a web site)
there are often ads for patterns and/or casting.  Sorry I don't have
their address at hand..

Paul in AJ AZ
ppierce@inficad.com



From UTJP04A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: UTJP04A@prodigy.com (Paul Pierce)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 25 Sep 1996 15:28:37 GMT
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As the late W.C. Fields said about elephants - "They are nice to look at, 
but who wants to feed one" - or something to that  effect..

Paul in AJ AZ
ppierce@inficad.com



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:14:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:30:09 GMT
Lines: 26


Whenever I do drawings for my projects, most if not all fractions are 
expressed as decimals.  Exceptions may be halves, quarters, 8ths, and 16ths,
which I had to learn in school, so I instantly think of the decimal 
equivalent.  



In a previous article, aep19@mail.idt.net ("Tony P.") says:

>My point exactly when I started all this (I am also 76257.3632 @ 
>Compuserve.com).  I think the fellow inquiring failed to recognize that 
>anybody needing precision, or even needing to regularly add measures such
>as draftsmen or surveyors, already used decimals instead of 1/8ths, etc.
>
>   Thus there is absolutely no accuracy advantage either way and any base 
>unit will do, but the conversion we make from fractions to decimals does 
>invite error (which is why we avoid them, except in carpentry).  I defy 
>any carpenter to achieve accuracy greater than 1/32" (heck, I can hardly 
>do that with metal much less wood!)
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!holly.holli.com!news
From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:27:51 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32496B97.3BF1@holli.com>
References: <324164a6.0@news.iea.net> <3241E342.689@holli.com> <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com> <Dy1J7x.M4A@bbxrbk.basis.com> <324819E4.50DF@ix.netcom.com>
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Kevin Rhodes, P.E. wrote:
> 
> Russ Kepler wrote:
> >
> > In article <32421E14.5A9E@ix.netcom.com>,
> > Kevin Rhodes, P.E. <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> > >Technically, it is not a machine gun although it may sound like one.  It
> > >would actually be a semi-automatic in that the trigger would be manually
> > >depressed (by turning the crank) for each shot.  I had read something to
> > >this effect in Machine Gun News.
> > >
> > >The GE mini-gun is not technically a machine gun, but try to convince the
> > >ATF.
> >
> > Sorry, but according to law a GE mini-gun is a machine gun as it
> > fires more than one projectile with a single mechanical motion (pull
> > of the trigger).  As long as you have to move something to make
> > another cartridge fire it's not a machine gun, thus a Gatling gun, with
> > a crank motion to fire another round, is not a machine gun (until you
> > put a motor on it, anyway).
> >
> > --
> > Russ Kepler                                                     russk@swcp.com
> >
> >                     Please Don't Feed the Engineers
> 
> I concede the point.

Another point to consider is that machine guns are not illegal!  As I recall, it is only illegal to own 
one without registering it and paying a one-time fee.  

Dan Bollinger


From stangier@proaxis.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!psgrain!rainrgnews0!news.proaxis.com!news
From: stangier <stangier@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 20:36:10 -0700
Organization: proaxis.com
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> >Mike Rehmus
> 
> I met Andy Lofquist, the owner of Metal Lathe Accessories, two years
> ago.  I made the original wooden patterns for his die filer kit to his
> specifications in exchange for a set of castings.  I built a prototype
> from the first castings produced and like it very much.  It's an
> excellent design, easy to build (I think), and performs very well.  It
> runs very smoothly and quietly and does a good jub of filing.
> 
> Jim Schwitters

Where does one aquire to files for this machine?  I have a '40 die filer
but can't find a source for files.


Hans


From Semenoff@Sask.usask.ca Fri Sep 27 16:14:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!usenet
From: Semenoff@Sask.usask.ca (Nik Semenoff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:34:36 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
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While there are special rods sold for welding aluminium, in fact it is
more a soldering function.  I bought some once at a much too expensive
a price, to find that they are basically nothing but zinc.  Since I am
an artist with zinc plates used for etching, I sheared some plates
into rod like dimensions and tried them instead.  Zinc worked
perfectly, just like the special rods.  I have shown a number of
sculptures and metal working types this fact and they all now use
common, inexpensive zinc in what ever form they can get it.

Nik Semenoff
Artist-in-residence

On 19 Sep 1996 02:02:11 GMT, Sandi <103437.124@CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>Anybody have any advice on aluminum welding for a novice?
>I would like to make things out of aluminum for my RC hobby 
>(planes, boats, helicopters, etc.)
>
>Thanks so much for any help!
>Tom         chopper.nut@juno.com



From dmeyers@nyc.pipeline.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!usenet
From: dmeyers@nyc.pipeline.com(Donald S. Meyers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Using all-purpose cutting disks on power mitre box
Date: 25 Sep 1996 13:45:09 GMT
Organization: The Pipeline
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <52bd15$9ra@news1.t1.usa.pipeline.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 38.8.134.3
X-PipeUser: dmeyers
X-PipeHub: nyc.pipeline.com
X-PipeGCOS: (Donald S. Meyers)
X-Newsreader: Pipeline v3.5.0

I would like to see information on using one of those cut-off disks that
are advertised for cutting tile, metal , etc on a power mitre box. What are
the pros and cons, safety aspects, etc, when cutting steel rod, aluminum,
SAE grade bolt material, stainless steel, etc. When can this be used in
place of a metal cutting bandsaw and when not? Is this a safer alternative
to the Carbide blade thread discussion currently going on? 
 
Cheers, Don 
-- 
Donald S. Meyers 
 
 



From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!vanbc!mfraser
From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint?
Date: 25 Sep 1996 14:33:38 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <52bfs2$p22@wolfe.wimsey.com>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu> <3247697C.4A6B@intnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vanbc.wimsey.com
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Don't breathe the spray or fumes...
Generally MEK [Methyl-Ethyl Ketone] is in the activator/catalyst, and 
Cyanide or some such chemical weapon is released during curing.

Marine paints can be had in epoxy flavors.  I once painted the deck of 
a fiberglas boat with an airbrush!

And I'm not sure who makes it, but there's a one-part paint that some
people use on crazed fiberglass cars/boats, from DuPont, I think [think
of weightlifters or bodybuilders or wrestlers or whatever] that covers
and wears well - hey, this old mind IMRON....

/mark

Randy Knott (randy@intnet.net) wrote:
: Dion Hollenbeck wrote:
: > 
: > I agree that epoxy paints are super.  Another source for them (albeit
: > in very limited colors) is paint designed for recoating bathroom
: > fixtures or appliances.  A quart for about $18 in my local home store.
: > 
: > dion
: > --
: > Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
: > Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California

: I've begun using epoxy primers instead of acid etch primers.  From my
: local auto finish store I got DP-90 and DP-402(primer epoxy and 
: activator catalyst).  The epoxy primers are not porous as the acid etch
: primers I'm aware of, and are hard as hard can be.  The primer and 
: activator are mixed 50/50 and there are 2 different activators that you
: can choose from, one is fast cure and one is slow cure.  The fast cure
: will have a pot life of a few hours(don't leave it in your spray gun)
: or the slow cure which will be sprayable for a couple of days.
: Clint
: 50/50


From Van_Baker@hp-loveland-om10.om.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!news.lvld.hp.com!news
From: Van Baker <Van_Baker@hp-loveland-om10.om.hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 25 Sep 1996 16:04:22 GMT
Organization: HP
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <52bl66$6c8@hplvejl.lvld.hp.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <52a8b2$rq0@aux.stedwards.edu>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35493 sci.materials:20392

Speaking of the HSM article, does anyone know a source for a 10-12" pipe 
burner, or better yet plans for making one to burn on propane?

Thanks!



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: temperatures - how to?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyArnp.sr@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <523ffi$8mg@lex.zippo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:40:36 GMT
Lines: 30

In article <523ffi$8mg@lex.zippo.com>,  <ehaddadf@iis.com.br> wrote:
>My question: how do I go about doing something like this:
>Heat to 900def F, hold for 10 minutes, remove and quench.
>How do I know that the part has reached 900deg F? I only have an indication
>for the furnace's temperature - not the actual part.
>How long should I hold the furnace's temperature for the part to get an even
>temperature?
>As I don't know if things are working, I can't even do some  testing.
>Can you help me?

I didn't see any answers, so I'll give you my take: in general, the
rise in temperature in a furnace isn't so fast as to have really
unequal temperatures in the furnace, or at least not between the
pyrometer and the work.  If there is much of a difference you should
see it in a change in the on/off time of the heating elements.  This
is all assuming that the work is placed in the furnace with both in a
"cold" state.  

If you were to place the material into a hot oven then the heat time
would be a complex function of the temperature delta, work thickness,
ability of the furnace to hold temp, etc.  When you get into those
complexities I don't know how to suggest going forward, except to
repeat the suggestion that you look at the furnace cycle time to
maintain heat, and when that's back to the heated-but-empty time that
the material should be at the proper temperature.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyAsF0.yw@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <51kcc1$1bv@tin.monsanto.com> <51nuia$r77@news1.svc> <5245uu$s3d@nw101.infi.net> <3248A8AA.1F5C@proaxis.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:56:59 GMT
Lines: 18

In article <3248A8AA.1F5C@proaxis.com>, stangier  <stangier@proaxis.com> wrote:
>Where does one aquire to files for this machine?  I have a '40 die filer
>but can't find a source for files.

The specs call out a "Type A" file, but says that any file w/o taper
can be adapted to the machine.  As I recall from the prototype at
NAMES the modification to a file was to whack it shorter and to
insert one end into a brass tupe, maybe soldering it in place (but
I'd be tempted to epoxy it myself).

As to a source of files - I recall seeing some in the Pferd catalog,
but judging from the time to get the catalog they might not ship
until the next millenium.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyAsKn.10r@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <01bba6a5$139ea7c0$35cfb7c7@johnnico> <52a0jf$6gg@ccnet2.ccnet.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:00:20 GMT
Lines: 13

In article <52a0jf$6gg@ccnet2.ccnet.com>, T Lipton  <tlipton@ccnet.com> wrote:
>My router has variable speed, and with the step pulleys I can use 
>small mounted stones down to around a half inch in diameter without 
>any trouble.

That's a *clever* idea.  I never would have thought to use a router
to drive a TPG, but once given the idea is a very good one.  Double 
use from the router as well.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!sloth.swcp.com!bbxrbk!russ
From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyAsqp.12E@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <324761B3.2F02@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <52b8l9$e5j$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:04:00 GMT
Lines: 21

In article <52b8l9$e5j$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com>,
Steve Wellcome  <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote:
>3AT collets go up to 1/2".  They're available; I think MSC
>may carry them, or you can get them from Hardinge Bros.,
>possibly for more money than you would believe any collet
>could cost, but the quality is excellent.

I see that you've never bought a 2S collet, or any other non-stock
collet, from Hardinge...

>I have seen screw-on adapters that will take 5C collets,
>but they necessarily have quite a bit of overhang and of
>course you can't put long stock down through the spindle.

Actually, if the collet is drawn by a scroll the through-spindle hole
can be left completely clear.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From critters@holli.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!fsc.fujitsu.com!pagesat.net!holly.holli.com!news
From: Dan Bollinger <critters@holli.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morse taper
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:33:12 -0700
Organization: Clay Critters
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <32496CD8.6961@holli.com>
References: <3248b2a8.41036083@news.scott.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: laf-ts1-09.holli.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Carl wrote:
> 
>    Several of the contributors to this newsgroup have commented on the fact that
> the various Morse tapers have different amounts of taper per inch.
> 
>    The best explaination I have ever seen for this has to do with patents.  In
> the past patent applications were usually acompanied by models or samples.  If
> the originator of the Morse taper sent in samples of the various tapers then the
> patent might have been based on the actual measurements of the samples, which
> seem to form two groups. The taper in one group differs from the taper in the
> other group.  Perhaps the inventor had to tear down the setup on his lathe
> between groups.

I've not seen any taper with a patent number on it, have you?

Tapers come in two types, ones that release by hand, and ones that require a hammer blow.  The wedging action 
is suited to the task.

Morse tapers are all about 5/8" per foot taper.

Brown & Sharpe are about 1/2" per foot.

Standard Steep Machine tapers (as in horizontal milling machines) are 3.5" per foot.

Check the Machinery's Handbook for specifics.


Dan Bollinger
Industrial Designer


From xcprhb@oryx.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.eng.convex.com!news.oryx.com!xcprhb
From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 25 Sep 1996 17:48:43 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 58
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <52br9r$f7m@lm1.oryx.com>
References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <felice.242.32480CC7@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

I've not seen the start of this thread and with the cancel-spam that took
place this weekend, probably won't (FYI someone launched a net attack by
forging article cancels, while some of the articles were reposted, there
were probably quite a few that were lost)

Some comments:

1)  People buy the machines they can find at prices they can afford.  Most
    of us have to compromise.

2)  Buying and rebuilding old machinery does NOT increase the supply of new
    good quality machines.  If anything, it decreases the production volumes,
    thereby increasing costs and ultimately driving companies from the market.

3)  There are good quality import machines on the market, however, they are
    either very expensive, too big, or both.  I have grave misgivings about
    acquiring a 12"x36" Monarch weighing 5000 lbs. at ANY price.

3)  A semi-finished kit might make economic sense.  Hardening & grinding the
    ways requires machinery probably unavailable to a prospective purchaser.
    On the other hand, boring the headstock using Dave Gingery's method or 
    a variant is viable.  As is handscraping the headstock and tailstock to 
    the ways.

4)  In recent years, the price of American made air compressors has gone down.
    I don't know how they've managed to do it, but clearly they've found 
    way to cut the costs without unduly sacrificing the quality.  Same
    thing with pressure washers.  At $1000 I can't justify buying one,
    but at $250 for a 1500 psi, gasoline driven unit I couldn't refuse.


I'd raised the subject of an a Logan built from Asian castings in an email
to Scott, but haven't received an answer.  Since others have raised the
question here, I'll elaborate a bit.

Using an existing Logan design built in the US from Asian castings, how
much would they have to sell for and how many would you have to sell to
make it worthwhile?  This is purely a business question.  No one can afford
to manufacture machinery just to be a "nice guy".  On the other hand,
there are enough import machines of indifferent quality being sold to
prove that there is a substantial market for a low cost machine.  By 
using an existing Logan design, even if the venture proved unsatisfactory
economically, support for the machines would not be a problem.  If the
rejection rate on castings made production impractical, those that were
acceptable could be sold as spare parts.  While this would reduce the risks,
I'd like to point out to that it would still require quite a lot of capital 
and much of it would be at risk.  Since the importers buy whole machines, 
they don't have to face the same financial exposure.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:19:05 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <DyAtFu.Eru.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <524o3u$on7@news.xmission.com> <Dy73r4.no1.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> <5273bg$39u@test-sun.erols.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d110.w.interaccess.com

In article <5273bg$39u@test-sun.erols.com>,
Reginald barron  <barronr@mail.erols.com> wrote:
:rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
:>You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.
[SNIP]
:I had the same sort of problems.  Had a fellow with some big
:machines make up an adaption to give it a Z axis that allows the 
:headstock to be cranked up and down.  Per the flexible ways:  one person
:cut the machine in half, thus stiffening the ways by shortening.  Another 
:method is to make up an aluminumdsm clamp that holds the bars together, 
:and has screws thatpress against the cast bed - care is required here 
:however.  Russ Tingey beefed up the cross slide by replacing one of the 
:bars with one 3/8" thick.  

Yikes!  I opted for a simpler solution and bought a Sherline mill.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morse taper
Date: 25 Sep 1996 17:38:49 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <09960825123233.OUI45.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <3248b2a8.41036083@news.scott.net> <32496CD8.6961@holli.com>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 9-129.client.gnn.com
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 25 Sep 1996 17:38:49 GMT
X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

In article <32496CD8.6961@holli.com>, From Dan Bollinger 
<critters@holli.com>, the following was written:
> Morse tapers are all about 5/8" per foot taper.
                       ^^^^^

> Brown & Sharpe are about 1/2" per foot.
                     ^^^^^
I think that is the point, they are ABOUT 5/8 or 1/2 inch per foot, but
all different.  And enough different that they are not interchangeable
even discounting the size difference.  IOW, you have to change your set
up for grinding or turning the various tapers.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/25/96 12:38
 http://www.loganact.com




From schrader@server.silo.lib.ia.us Fri Sep 27 16:14:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!news
From: Dave Schrader <schrader@server.silo.lib.ia.us>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: marathon electric
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 13:41:34 -0500
Organization: State of Iowa Libraries Online
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Message-ID: <32497CDE.31B8@server.silo.lib.ia.us>
Reply-To: schrader@server.silo.lib.ia.us
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I have a motor manufactured by Marathon Electric that I need to make
run the other way.  It doesn't have any diagram on it.  Does anyone
happen to have the address for Marathon Electric Mfg, Wisconsin within
reach ?
                                Dave Schrader


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!gazette.engr.sgi.com!godzilla!cak
From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 25 Sep 1996 17:46:35 GMT
Organization: Silicon Studio, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <52br5r$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <324761B3.2F02@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla.studio.sgi.com


	This will only work if you can find a source of good, cheap 3C collets.
	Unfortunately, this is unlikely.

Dave Sobel has provided me with a good selection of (round) 3C collets
(or variants, like 1A or South Bend 3) for my old SB 9x48, for
reasonable prices. I haven't gone looking for hex or other odd ones yet.


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:14:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: 25 Sep 1996 17:49:12 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <52brao$9rn@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <5297ni$msb@gap.cco.caltech.edu> <52agi8$jff@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny14-07.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Wed Sep 25 10:49:12 AM PDT 1996

In <52agi8$jff@news1.svc> Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
writes: 
>
>N.B.  Replace Sun in my previous reply with Snap-On (or Snap-Off). 
Sorry, Jim, I know 
>they overcharge for a lot of things but their air tools can even stand
up to my 
>son-in-law's work in maintaining a fleet of trucks.  It has to be good
if it can do 
>that!

Mike: Don't get me wrong, Snap on tools reek of quality. there is
nothing more satisfying than the feel of their wrenches ( well.... you
know what I mean!) My only beef with them is that they take other
manufacturers tools and put their label on them and bump up the price
200 - 500%, that's outrageous!

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 18:02:21 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <DyAvFx.Ewn.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <tcarter.63.002144CE@csir.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d110.w.interaccess.com

In article <tcarter.63.002144CE@csir.co.za>,
Tim Carter <tcarter@csir.co.za> wrote:
:
:Get yourself a hydrometer, Chet, and dilute battery acid to an SG of
:1.066 for a concentration of 10%.
:
:Remember to add acid to water, never, never the other way round, stir 
:continuously, wear goggles and keep a supply of fresh water handy in
:case of accidents.

That "acid into water" bit is important only when working with the
concentrated acid.  Concentrated sulphuric acid has a very high affinity
for water, and the binding reaction is highly exothermic.  If you try to
add water to the acid, the water will boil and spatter the acid all over
you.  Once the acid has acquired a specific amount of water (six
molecules of H2O for each of H2SO4, if memory serves me), you now have
_dilute_ sulphuric acid, which does not generate heat when you add
additional water.

Battery acid is *way* dilute in this context.  (Hint: When a battery
needs water, do you first remove the acid from the battery, or do you
just pour water into the acid in the battery.)

With sulphuric acid especially, you have to make the distinction between
concentrated and dilute.  When you're in school, you learn that
sulphuric acid reacts strongly with steel but has little effect on lead.
Then you graduate and move into industry, where you discover that
*concentrated* H2SO4 is shipped in steel tank cars, but must be kept
away from lead, which dissolves in it rapidly.  ("Concentrated sulphuric
acid" is not even an acid, chemically.  It can't separate into ions
until it is mixed with water.)

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Junk Machinery
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 15:20:35 -0700
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<Soap box mode ON>

...Lemme start with a clean sheet of paper...

If I were to buy a new piece of machinery, I would go straight up and 
turn right if I had to repair it before I could use it, burn up the phone 
lines to the supplier, manufacturer, whomever, starting with "Please" and 
progressing as far as neccessary to "come and get this thing out of my 
shop while I cancel the check/file suit, etc.,"  "Exercising my 
warranty"...the warranty being the primary reason for buying new. But, 
Scott makes the remark "If Logan built a lathe like that, we would have 
beeen run out of the business"...Right, Scott, because if Logan built a 
lathe today, the purchaser would expect American (the continent, not the 
nation for the benefit of our Canadian readers) perfection and quality.  
The Asian manufacturers are capitalizing on the fact that there are few 
machinery manufacturers in the US today that can produce a machine for 
the home workshop at a price that can be justified in the family budget; 
there are home machinists who have children to raise and see through 
their education, mortgages, car payments, etc.....After reading Scott 
Logan's post this morning, I called Blue Ridge Machinery; a South Bend 
10" engine lathe with a thread indicator, faceplate and toolpost carries 
a price tag of $12,575, this without a motor or a switch to turn it on 
and off.  How many aspiring home machinists can submit a line item like 
that to the spouse and expect to get it approved?  Conversely, for 
$2800-5000, give or take a few, an Asian machine can be had with 
faceplate, 3 and 4 jaw chuck, turret tool post, dead centers, thread 
indicator, a bunch of stuff, plug and play.  I/you/anyone can go to 
Lowe's or Home Quarters and buy a Taiwan bandsaw with wobbly legs for 
$200, I can also go to the mill supply and drool over the bandsaw they 
have on display for $4800..which one is going to find a home in the hobby 
shop?

...Thought so....

...Now that I have identified the problem, I feel obligated to offer a 
solution:  The Big Three are having OEM automobile parts manufactured in 
Mexico, using US quality material and US quality..ummmm...quality.  They 
take advantage of the low labor rate, the lack of OSHA restrictions, etc. 
to lower their costs of production.  The vehicles are assembled, however 
in the US, insuring that the final product upholds that standard.  A 
major railroad material dealer is shipping rail that is not suitable for 
re-use to Mexico where it is re-rolled and sent back as rebar, same 
advantage.  Could this approach be applied to the manufacture of home-use 
metalworking machinery, using quality iron and steel and assembled, 
tested and tuned by US craftsmen at affordable cost?....Dunno, I'm not a 
bean counter, but there appears to be a definite market for a *good* 
lathe for less than $13,000 a *good* cutoff saw for less than $5000, a 
*good* drill press for less than $1800....I liken today's new machinery 
market to this:  We have two choices of automobiles, a Model T or a 
Packard, with nothing in between.....

<soapbox mode OFF>.....NEXT!

				Jack




From frank@newshost.dsea.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Carbon Arc Cutting et al
Date: 25 Sep 1996 09:58:18 -0700
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America, Inc.
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On and off in this newsgroup I've seen discussions of carbon-arc
torches and how they are used.  Currently I am taking a general 
welding course; last night we got to see a demo of carbon-arc cutting.

In general, the instructor used a weldor, one about the size of a small
fork truck, set at maximum current, and a carbon electrode somewhat
smaller than my finger.  The arc was struck on the edge of the 1" plate, 
and the electrode was used to encourage the white hot steel to leave.
Less dramatic than I expected, but that is probably because the right
equipment and settings were being used.

Much more dramatic was the 275 amp gouging electrode demonstration.
I would have never thought that one could cut a 1/4" slot in a steel
plate anywhere near that fast.  The volume of smoke and dust produced
in such a short time was impressive indeed.

One other note.  There have been many articles posted here about 
the difficulty of getting a clean cut when torch cutting.  I learned
a torch-rest technique that produced cuts that were remarkably smooth
and straight.

The basic idea is to grab the torch with both hands, but support the
hand close to the work.  Specifically, a piece of smooth 1/2" steel
rod, the cutting guide, was placed on blocks about 1" above the table.
With the left hand palm up, put the area of the oxygen valve in the
palm of the left hand.  Then lower the hand-torch so that the space
between the second and third knuckle saddles the steel rod.  Slide your
hand along the guide.  The cutting tip follows (pantographs?) the
shape of the guide.  No wiggles or jitters.  Low-tech wonder.

-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Unimat Lathe Information Wanted
Date: 25 Sep 1996 21:05:49 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <52c6rd$eo7@test-sun.erols.com>
References: <524o3u$on7@news.xmission.com> <Dy73r4.no1.0.omega-3@interaccess.com> <5273bg$39u@test-sun.erols.com> <DyAtFu.Eru.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
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rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
>In article <5273bg$39u@test-sun.erols.com>,
>Reginald barron  <barronr@mail.erols.com> wrote:
>:rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols) wrote:
>:>You'll find the unit hopelessly inadequate as a mill.
>[SNIP]
>:I had the same sort of problems.  Had a fellow with some big
>:machines make up an adaption to give it a Z axis that allows the 
>:headstock to be cranked up and down.  Per the flexible ways:  one person
>:cut the machine in half, thus stiffening the ways by shortening.  Another 
>:method is to make up an aluminumdsm clamp that holds the bars together, 
>:and has screws thatpress against the cast bed - care is required here 
>:however.  Russ Tingey beefed up the cross slide by replacing one of the 
>:bars with one 3/8" thick.  
>
>Yikes!  I opted for a simpler solution and bought a Sherline mill.
>
>-- 
>Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
>Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
>PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
>Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


With me, it was mostly economic
plus an unexplainable affection
for the little Unimat.  When I
purchased my first one they were
"the" machine for hobbyists doing
 small work.  Sherline
was just beginning to advertise
and was not generally available
(mid 70s)

I thought about the Sherline,
(and also a Cowells of course),
and may even get one someday.
But the Z axis conversion
only cost me $150, and I was
able to purchase a second
stripped down Unimat to set
up vertically for $100. The 
alluminum clamps are easy 
to make.  I also get to use
all the chucks etc.  So
far this has been OK for 
the small parts I make in 
brass and alum.

One friend, suggested buying
a drill press X Y Table and
fasten the Unimat headstock to that.
Another fellow actually made
up his own X Y table out of
Plexiglass with a Unimat 3
Headstock.  I have a drawing of
it - really neat (he makes
very small parts in brass).

Reg Barron






From frwillia@www.ptw.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!decwrl!news.PBI.net!usenet
From: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cutting Steel with Carb. Circ. Saw Blade
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:28:17 -0700
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3249F851.20EE@www.ptw.com>
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
> : On page 33 of the September '96 Home Shop Machinist, Steve Acker writes
> : about using a carbide tipped wood circular saw blade to cut steel.  Several
> : months ago I picked up a couple of small carbide saw blades for about $1.
> : I had the same idea, but got scared of this trick when it dug into the
> : work.  Anyone else try this?
> 
> I want to point out he was using those blades in a milling machine, with
> a very hefty arbor he made for the purpose.  You don't say, but I am sure
> that if you try to cut heavy steel with one of these blades in a regular
> circular saw, there will be a big mess if you're lucky, and a trip to the
> hospital if you're not!
> 
> Even in a milling machine, the blades have a tendency to shatter, and
> without a guard, there could be flying pieces.  The teeth might have
> a tendency to dig in, and so very strong work holding would be a good
> idea.  The surface speed for cutting steel would be pretty low for a
> cutter of that diameter.

The whole process sounds like an imitation of a cold saw.  I looked at a 
cold saw blade.  It had a lot of teeth, certainly more like a carbide 
version of a plywood blade, or at least a 75 or 90 tooth fine cut off 
blade, than the few toothed skill saw blade I saw in the HSM picture.  
Cold saws are very rigid, turn quite slowely, and flood the work with 
coolent.  I would guess that the closer one gets to the cold saw set of 
conditions, the better this approach will work.  

Fitch


From joe@io.org Fri Sep 27 16:15:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!Norway.EU.net!sn.no!nntp.uio.no!news2.interlog.com!news1.io.org!news
From: joe@io.org (joe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 02:50:42 GMT
Organization: Internex Online (io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Message-ID: <52cr0k$bi1@news1.io.org>
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ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:


>Model Engineer Magazine also has plans for homemade lathes.
>During World War 2, Popular Mechanics Press published a book, called " 
>Forty Power Tools You Can Make" witha mini lathe in it.

I think the lathe article appeared in the January 1945 issue.





From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:15:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Message-ID: <1996Sep25.151241.25117@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Sep 96 15:12:27 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <52akpu$6cd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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In article <52akpu$6cd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan) writes:
|>In article <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com>, SLogan@gnn.com (Scott
|>Logan) writes:
|>
|>> or from MSC
|>       ^^^^^^^^^^^
|>I keep hearing about MSC, can someone give me an 800 number or a fax
|>number to call for a catalog.

>From  the FAQ, for the second time in the last 3 days:

   -  MSC Industrial Supply Co.
      151 Sunnyside Blvd
      Plainview, NY  11803
      (800) 645-7270, (800) 255-5067 FAX, (516) 349-0265 FAX
      http://mscdirect.com

      Their 96/97 catalog is 3555 pages, and their selection has been
      described as "dumbfounding".  They claim same-day shipping and seem
      to meet this goal.  I realize non-US callers can't phone US 800
      numbers, MSC suggests using the second FAX number above.  Also,
      their NY branch is at (516) 349-0330 if you're non-US and need to
      talk to somebody.  The catalog is free in the 50 USA states, and
      Puerto Rico and Canada.  A CD-ROM version might be available by
      mid-1997.

      Outside the US, their current (September 1996) policy is:

      *  The minimum order size for export orders is US$500
      *  Only products in stock at the time of shipment will be included on
         the order
      *  MSC will not process backorders or provide for special orders


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:15:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ncar!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morse taper
Message-ID: <1996Sep25.151737.25118@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 25 Sep 96 15:17:36 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <3248b2a8.41036083@news.scott.net>, carl@scott.net (Carl) writes:
|>   Several of the contributors to this newsgroup have commented on the fact that
|>the various Morse tapers have different amounts of taper per inch.
|>
|>   The best explaination I have ever seen for this has to do with patents.  In
|>the past patent applications were usually acompanied by models or samples.  If
|>the originator of the Morse taper sent in samples of the various tapers then the
|>patent might have been based on the actual measurements of the samples, which
|>seem to form two groups. The taper in one group differs from the taper in the
|>other group.  Perhaps the inventor had to tear down the setup on his lathe
|>between groups.


The more likely explanation is simply to prevent one Morse taper
>from  being fitted into the wrong "other end".

For example, if you try to stuff an MT3 arbor into an MT4 spindle,
or vice-versa, not only won't it fit well, but the mismatch in the
actual taper means it won't even begin to stick.  If the tapers were
the same, some dumb machinist might try to make such a set-up work
even though the taper engagement is a tiny fraction of what's needed.

Jim


From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyB0B3.1pn@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <52a8b2$rq0@aux.stedwards.edu> <52bl66$6c8@hplvejl.lvld.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 19:47:26 GMT
Lines: 14
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35513 sci.materials:20395

In article <52bl66$6c8@hplvejl.lvld.hp.com>,
Van Baker  <Van_Baker@hp-loveland-om10.om.hp.com> wrote:
>Speaking of the HSM article, does anyone know a source for a 10-12" pipe 
>burner, or better yet plans for making one to burn on propane?

I made one from an old LP manifold from a gas barbeque that I'd
upgraded to home (natural) gas.  I just used 1" black iron pipe with
1/8" holes drilled every .200 inches.  Works fine in the short length
I needed (about 12").

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!spool.news.idt.net!news
From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?  Re: Metric system in the USA?  > I got used to having two sets of wrenches  > years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly  > well.....    Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.  Not only in most European countries - except France, the birthplace of the metric   system - are the wheel sizes given in inch. A full size bike is 28" in the metric world   too.Peter Brooks wrote:    > I got us
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:30:58 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: Honoré de Gronckel <H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de>

I agree.  Chauvinism about that kind of thing gets really stale after 
puddling around with the inconvenience of dual standards long enough.  
_Any_ uniform standard is usually better than _two_ coexisting ones.

					Tony


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs. inch: Don't use either
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:39:33 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: Steve Rayner <ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA>

Ah, but they weren't mechanics: just technicians.  Many 
newer-generation (especially factory-trained) service people  have gone 
so far in the direction of using the factory manuals and instructions 
(not a bad thing, believe me) that they have no independent judgment.
In fact, the solution is often dredged up by a computer without the tech 
even truly understanding the nature of the problem.  He is not required 
to understand: merely follow directions.

   Also, the emissions standards are so stringent that service people are 
likely instructed that once out of tolerance, it's junk.

    You, on the other hand, probably subscribe to the same philosophy I 
do:  when the consequence of failure is the same as the consequence of 
not trying (i.e. replacing the part) WHAT THE HECK DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE BY 
TRYING IT FIRST?  (Answer: sale of a new part, if you're a dealer).

       Face it: we're an endangered species.

						Tony


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:52:56 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B <kferguson@aquilagroup.com>

Whew!  That's quite an explanation.  I thought I was computer 
literate, and have three university degrees, and barely followed it.  
Lots of thought went into it, obviously.

   I think though that whether computers are digital or decimal or 
whatever) they will have _very_ little difficulty dealing with the 
metalworker's or carpenter's conversions and calculations, whatever 
system he's using.

   I understand your argument about "drift" and rounding error: very good 
points when calculations are made in series without repeated reference to 
a point of beginning or reference, as your control systems must 
apparently do.  Surveyors get in lots of trouble that way, and if you've 
seen the old government survey-lines, it's obvious.

   That, BTW, is the thing I will never understand about inertial 
navigation systems:  without repeated references to a centering or 
cross-reference point, don't the tiny errors (such as rounding, but 
measurement too) add up to gibberish after a few hundred miles?  Our 
machines are a whole lot smarter than I can grasp.

  (Of course, I still can't manage to grasp the control system of a fast 
printer head or, for that matter, a hard drive, for many of the same 
reasons.)

					Tony


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:11:02 -0700
Organization: Very, very poor.
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To: Janos ERO <EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH>

Thanks for your kind comment (aep19@mail.idt.net is also 
76257.3632@Compuserve.com.  Two 'Net providers so I never get a busy 
carrier)

    I really enjoyed your thoughtful response.  The world has now shrunk 
to the point where everything our neighbors do is relevant.  A distance 
of thousands of miles is no distance at all, but a cultural gulf can be 
insurmountable; fortunately there are only a few of those left, mostly 
involving religion.

   Anyway, it's a lot of fun looking over the shoulder of skilled and 
thoughtful people working in different ways and systems.  Invariably, I'm 
struck more with how similarly we end up doing things than the reverse.  
Things always seem a lot more "different" in the abstract than in 
practice by other humans.

   Now I just need to learn to recognize those metric fasteners according 
to the chart, rather than just grabbing wrenches by eyeball.  I'm afraid 
I'm doomed to a lifetime of grabbing a metric nut and trying to turn it 
onto an inch bolt.  _Very_ frustrating, because there are no two 
different inch-sized nuts close enough to be mistaken for each other that 
way, but the doggone metric things just _look_ the right size and I'll 
grab them every time.  Once I get them into my nut and bolt bins it's 
like a case of fleas that can't be gotten rid of.

	Just another challenge.

					Tony


From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Blueing steel
Date: 25 Sep 96 21:12:31 -0700
References: <Pine.OSF.3.92a.960919184645.20676B-100000@saul4.u.washington.edu> <52a8b2$rq0@aux.stedwards.edu> <52bl66$6c8@hplvejl.lvld.hp.com>
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Van,
	Call Brownells'.  They are the people to get the salts from, and 
they sell the pipe burners, tanks and everything else too.

Brownells
200 South Front Street
Montezuma IA 50171
(515)623-5401

No connection with them except has happy customer


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: telling bronze from brass???
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 19:35:42 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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I recently got a cored bar of what I think is bronze, at
my friendly scrap metal yard, but how can I tell?


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 19:34:26 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 14
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <felice.245.32498941@pioneer.net>
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Another way of getting a quality lathe would be if someone
got a no-name chinese dealership, so that the cost to
them was 35% (or whatever the standard dealer price is) less,
then precision rebuilt the lathe to quality standards. This would be the
same as how us idiots do it now, only the work would be done by a professional.
If you look at the difference in price between the JET and the no-name brands,
, just for service, one thinks that people would pay more than the JET price 
for high quality. This assumes that these import tools are worth rebuilding
however. 

Then again, JET(HF, ENCO, Grizzly) could offer two grades of each model, 
crappy and precision.

just thinking....


From tm_bc@compuserve.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tm_bc@compuserve.com (Nicolai A. von Tsurikov)
Newsgroups: sci.engr.metallurgy,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help - steel alloys LSS and LSB
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:23:13 GMT
Organization: Metall-Chemie, Germany
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu sci.engr.metallurgy:8793 rec.crafts.metalworking:35521

Looking for specifications of two NiCr alloys, LSS and LSB. Thanks a
lot for your help in advance.
Bye

Nick
tm_bc@compuserve.com




From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 25 Sep 96 21:08:26 -0700
References: <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <52a5f0$s17@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <52ah0n$p7v@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
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Organization: The Microsoft Network (msn.com)
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Jim,
	I'm one of those happy Saturn owners.  You are right.  And if 
_EVERY_ European car is btter than the best American car why is this 
joke funny: How do you double the value of a Yugo? A: Fill the gas 
tank

Charlie


From pdrahn@seanet.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Paul C. Drahn" <pdrahn@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: German "Prazi" Machines?
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:24:52 -0700
Organization: Seanet Online Services, Seattle WA
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Dave Hills wrote:
> 
> Does anyone buy, use, or have information, experience, or advice on the
> German made "Prazi" machines?  I know they are not cheap, but are they
> worth thier price?  I don't believe I have seen them mentioned here
> before.
> 
> --
> Dave Hills, P.E.
> DH Associates
> Electronic Power Supply Engineering
> dhills@onramp.netThey have been mentioned here a few times.  I bought one of their 
lathes, used but new, about 3 years ago. Very good to learn on, I think. 
 Soon outgrew it, however. Great for small projects! 

If interested, mine is available in the Seattle area. EMAIL 
pdrahn@seanet.com.  

The US destributor advertizes in HSM and I have purchased accessories 
>from  them.

Good Luck on your search.
Paul.



From bkelly@bright.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bkelly@bright.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How Good/Bad Is My New Anvil?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 00:23:39 GMT
Organization: BrightNet Ohio
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hagemann@execpc.com (John P. Hagemann) wrote:

>I recently purchased an anvil from a farmer out in the boonies.  I cleaned the 
>years of caked on grease and grime off of it and I found the following 
>writing...

>Sweden          Paragon
>          167 Lbs.

>There is a small picture of what appears to be a straight razor above the word 
>"Sweden."  The anvil is in very nice shape.  The face and horn have only minor 
>scratches and there is very little, if any, hollowing of the face.  It doesn't 
>look as though it's ever been refaced.  There are some nicks on the sides of 
>the face, but I believe they can either be avoided or ground out.  When 
>struck, it gives a nice, sharp ring.  The hammer bounces nicely from it.

>It came with a nice hot cut hardy tool, also.  I paid $75.00 for it.  Anybody 
>know if this is a good anvil?  How can I tell if it's forged or cast?  Any 
>info would be greatly appreciated.

>John P. Hagemann     hagemann@execpc.com


Sounds like you made quite a buy there, John!    I am jealous!

Does he have any more?  Can I be nosy and ask in what state you bought this?
Here in Central Ohio, ( Amish country ) anvils easily bring $2. pound, generally
more.

Is yours a farriers anvil or a blacksmiths anvil?  From its weight, it could be
a farriers, and if so, it is even a bigger bargain.  The used hardies in good
shape sell for $20. or so, around here, also.

I did find a 380 pound forged blacksmiths anvil for $175 last summer, and have
been putting my iron jewel to good use!

Have fun with yours!

Brian



From jbarry1000@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jbarry1000@aol.com (JBarry1000)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: 25 Sep 1996 20:07:41 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have recently found that a Dremel Flex shaft tool / mounted in a boring
bar holder, makes an excellent and inexpensive tool post grinder. Not yet
ready to give up my DuMore but the Dremel can get into plasces that the
Dumore can't. I recently fabricated some 0.015 dia X 0.009 rivets with
this on my Harding lathe and was very pleased.


From Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marc Davis <Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: are there any foundries in Oregon?
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:55:43 -0700
Organization: Intel Corp.
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> > is there anyone in Oregon(or anywhere NW) who will cast from

For Al and brass Valley Aluminum and Brass (503)-245-7880 has very good
prices. He will work from 
a patern or do "lost foam".  I had a bell housing for a custom
engine/transmition pair cast for $50 from a 
pattern.  The patern was cast from a foam model for $30.

Marc Davis
Marc_Davis@ccm.jf.intel.com


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: collets
Date: 26 Sep 1996 00:38:18 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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jhall@atcon.com (John W. Hall) wrote:
>There is an article in the new HSM about making one's own 3C collets. 
>I am wondering about the feasibility of making the other components 
>for using collets: drawbar, nose cap and sleeve. Any comments?
>
>John
John, I just made all the componants you've mentioned. A taper attachment is nice, but am sure 
work can be done without it, just takes longer. There have been articals in past HSM on this 
subject. Cheers Bob



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for metalworking FAQ
Date: 23 Sep 1996 14:59:30 GMT
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I've got a SB 10K lathe.  Here's some opinions...

I will say, Logan's motor isolation arrangement on the 11" Logan is
absolutely superb.  The 11" Logan is probably slightly better than
a SB 10K, maybe not quite as good as the SB 10" engine or toolroom
lathe (also referred to as the "heavy 10" by some). Assuming you get 
one in good shape though, the differences are not enough to worry 
about.  Both are very good lathes. It becomes more a question of
preference than any real quality issues.

Scott's right about one thing...he's around to answer questions!
SB has, apparently, absolutely zero interest in the "home shop"
market.  I've never found that to be a problem as I've never needed
any manufacturer's assistance with my lathe, but it's something to
consider.



From neidorff@uicc.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!mv!chillon!neidorff
From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Re: Using all-purpose cutting disks on power mitre box
Message-ID: <DyBF6z.J3x@uicc.com>
Sender: news@uicc.com (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: woofer
Organization: Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp.
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 01:08:58 GMT
Lines: 26

Donald S. Meyers (dmeyers@nyc.pipeline.com) wrote:
: I would like to see information on using one of those cut-off disks that
: are advertised for cutting tile, metal , etc on a power mitre box...

I put one on an old hand circular saw and attacked a piece of aluminum
and iron casting.  Just dug into the whole mess without worrying about
correct speed, correct disk, etc.  It cut fairly fast and effortlessly
until I turned the saw a bit.  The disk quickly shattered and fell to
the ground fairly safely.  Boy was I suprised.  I don't know why it
didn't throw a chunk of disk, but it didn't.  Perhaps it all jammed in
the cut.

The fact that the disk did fracture into 30mm flying knives means that
EXTREME SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS are ESSENTIAL with these disks.  However,
while it lasted, it was a great tool.  Perhaps in capable hands, this
disk would have lasted a lot longer.  In a stationary miter saw, it
surely would have seen less side force.  I suspect that this disk was
NOT fiberglasss reinforced, based on the shattering.  Next time, I'm
going to try fiberglass disks.

I see 7" wheels advertised in Wholesale Tool for $2.40 while 10" wheels
are $4.50.  These are no brand fiberglass wheels for cutting steel.
Nortons are more expensive and likely much better, based on my limited
experience with Norton and imported abrasives.

Bob Neidorff <neidorff@uicc.com>


From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill (address correction)...
Date: 26 Sep 1996 01:37:29 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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Reply-To: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Oops, I must be getting old. The email address I listed at the end of my
message is wrong. My correct email address is: JHKO@AOL.COM,*not*
joeo@aol.com (joeo is my work email address, at a different URL). 

Thanks in advance for the help,

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From jsp@u.washington.edu Fri Sep 27 16:15:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morse taper
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:28:20 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
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On 25 Sep 1996, James Kirkpatrick wrote:

> 
> In article <3248b2a8.41036083@news.scott.net>, carl@scott.net (Carl) writes:
> |>   Several of the contributors to this newsgroup have commented on the fact that
> |>the various Morse tapers have different amounts of taper per inch.
> 
> 
> The more likely explanation is simply to prevent one Morse taper
> from being fitted into the wrong "other end".
> 
> For example, if you try to stuff an MT3 arbor into an MT4 spindle,
> or vice-versa, not only won't it fit well, but the mismatch in the
> actual taper means it won't even begin to stick.  If the tapers were
> the same, some dumb machinist might try to make such a set-up work
> even though the taper engagement is a tiny fraction of what's needed.
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
I hadn't thought of that possibility.  Another possibility is that the
taper has to be slightly different in the various sizes so that the tapers
lock and release.  Sort of the way that press fits have different
requirements for a half inch hole and a two inch hole.
			CHeers,



From machtool@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: andy popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:46:15 -0400
Organization: XL MACHINERY
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3249D257.737D@ix.netcom.com>
References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <32480323.388895034@news.islandnet.com>
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To: Jens <psh@islandnet.com>

sorry to disagree jens
but i have owned 2 FORD explores in the past 3 years
they are mechanicly perfect not a single problem in 50,000+miles
and i will most likely buy my third one in june (no i don't work for
FORD)

regards
ap


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 26 Sep 1996 00:58:10 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 51
Message-ID: <09960825195659.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <felice.242.32480CC7@pioneer.net> <52br9r$f7m@lm1.oryx.com>
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Reg,

Sorry I hadn't replied to your e-mail, I was trying to compose a proper
response.

Your message makes some very good points, and perhaps I was a bit over
zealous in my attack on low priced machines.

I think that a poorly designed machine, such as the Jet referred to in
the HSM article, can be properly sold at a low price.  Now before I get
flamed, any lathe headstock that relies on set screws, pushing against
hold down bolts, _is_ poorly designed.

OTOH, any machine, well designed or not, should not be delivered with
hammer dings on a pulley, or a headstock which tilts .030" or sand in a
gearbox.  That is what I mean by junk.

As for your comments regarding an "asian" Logan Lathe, this may make
some sense.  There are some other things to consider, though.

#1 - What will people think when they find their nice new
North-American-built machine was built from castings produced in, say,
China?  Using, as some suggest, political prisoner labor?

#2 - Volume.  How many machines can be sold per month?  How many
castings need to be purchased off-shore to be feasible?

#3 - You're right about the capital investment, though I don't know if
you realize how big that investment would have to be. Manufacturing a
lathe (the right way) includes some fairly specialized machinery, such
as bed mills, as well as a lot of pattern work.

#4 - How much will you, and everyone else be willing to pay for product
liability insurance?  A Lathe or any other machine tool has inherent
dangers built into its use. Now we are talking about producing a machine
specifically for the home market. Product liability insurance would not
be optional, and would add many thousands of dollars of overhead per
month to the manufacturer's bottom line.  And believe me, anything that
adds to the expenses of the manufacturer, be it insurance, wages, taxes,
whatever, WILL be passed on to the purchaser.  In today's litigious
society, I would not want to even dream of the insurance costs. 
Consider the multi-million dollar award handed down to the woman who
spilled coffee in her own lap.

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/25/96 19:58
 http://www.loganact.com




From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Chinese lathes headstock mod for alignment
Date: 25 Sep 1996 22:19:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Hey Peter and W.J.:

Hey, at least you guys didn't spend megabucks on an Emco-Maier lathe, like
I did, which has *exactly* the same headstock design as the Chinese 9"
lathes. Why not just be happy with what you bought? After you align it, it
works doesn't it? By the way, any ideas on aligning a cheap drill/mill?
After my expensive lathe experience I bought one of those, and when I
swing a dial indicator in a 6" circle, the reading is off by .002" or so,
side to side (front to back is within about .0003'). Should I shim the
column? How? Any good rules of thumb?

Anyway, I don't think you guys did so bad on the cheap lathes.

Joe O.
JOEO@AOL.COM


From ddl@harvard.edu Fri Sep 27 16:15:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!news.wing.net!news.ipswitch.com!ddl
From: ddl@harvard.edu (Dan Lanciani)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: air hammer as...hammer?
Message-ID: <3616@news.IPSWITCH.COM>
Date: 26 Sep 96 00:49:37 GMT
Organization: Internet 
Lines: 11

This may seem like a funny question, but does anybody use an air hammer
tool as a hammer?  I needed a little help driving a ground rod the other
day and I thought I'd try my trusty air hammer, but I didn't have a tip
with a flat head--only chisels and rippers and such.  Checking all my
favorite tool catalogs confirmed a lack of such tips.  Now, it may well
be that the little unit I have wouldn't be much use on the ground rod,
but surely there are smaller driver applications applications where a flat
tip would be useful.  Or am I missing something?

				Dan Lanciani
				ddl@harvard.*


From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machine coolant
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 22:13:57 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <01bbaa9d$a48cd120$3ea01cce@deers>,
   "Danny" <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net> wrote:
>A friend of mine has asked me why he couldn't use just water and automotive
>anti-freeze in his mill.  he wants to keep coolant in his mills base, but
>he doesn't keep heat in his building much during the winter.  Is it
>possible to use anti-freeze as a coolant?  I know it has anti-rust an lubes
>for pump seals, so why shouldn't it work?  I have had never give it much
>thought as I keep mine heated during the winter an use regular coolant.
>whats everybody's opinion?
>danny
One small reason it might not work is that coolant is also a lubricant, which 
anti freez is not. It's also hard not to get coolant all over your hands and 
occasionally in your face and on your clothes. Anti-freeze is toxic, where 
most synthetic coolants are not. If your going to leave the coolant in the 
mill base for long periods of time, my advice would be to go with a synthetic 
as it won't rot like soluble oil. I use Swisslube blaser 2000 or Wynns 941. 
They're good down to -90f, I hope your shop doesn't get colder than that.
The only drawback is that it's pricey. A five gallon pale is about $90, which 
will make 100 gallons of coolant. This might be a life time supply for some 
people but it's well worth the investment.


From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill...
Date: 25 Sep 1996 22:53:37 -0400
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Well, after reading Marsh Collin's article in 'Projects in Metal' Magazine
about fixing up his new cheap Drill-Mill, I couldn't resist buying one. I
rented a U-haul trailer and drove the 60 miles to Rutland and bought one
(turns out it must be the same Taiwan manufacturer as his, as the Taiwan
manuals look identical, though his came from Enco).

Anyway, after much hard work moving the crate, unpacking and getting the
drill mill up on its stand, I put an indicator on a small magnetic holder
on the spindle and indicated about a 6" circle on the table. The front and
back readings on the indicator were within about .0003". However, the
right and left readings (3 and 9 oclock positions, facing the mill) were
off by about .0025". I read this to mean the column is tilting slightly
side to side. 

Anyway, Marsh in his article said that he "levelled the baseplate casting"
and put "a couple of shims at the base of the column", after which a dial
indicator swung on the spindle barely "flickered the needle". 

Well, my question is, should I do the same on my drill-mill, and is there
anything I should worry about, based on your experience? Do I just loosen
the four large painted screws on the base of the column (assuming I can
get them loose), cut a couple of little pieces of .0005 steel or brass
shim stock, tilt the column a bit and try to shove a little piece in the
gap until my indicator readings improve? And what about levelling the
baseplate casting? I've heard of levelling a lathe,  but does this really
make sense on a cheap drill-mill? 

Or, do I just thank the stars that my drill-mill is as good as it is and
not worry about it? Will this lack of accuracy really make a difference
building live steamers? (By the way, I indicated a 2" circle on my
Sherline mill, and it didn't seem any more accurate).

Anyway, any comments based on great experience would be appreciated.

Best Regards,

Joe Osborn
JOEO@AOL.COM

(Member of the Golden Gate Live Steamers)


From neidorff@uicc.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Re: Using all-purpose cutting disks on power mitre box
Message-ID: <DyBFB9.J4v@uicc.com>
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 01:11:33 GMT
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Donald S. Meyers (dmeyers@nyc.pipeline.com) wrote:
: I would like to see information on using one of those cut-off disks that
: are advertised for cutting tile, metal , etc on a power mitre box. 

One other point.  There are reinforced disks meant for hogging
steel which are tougher and more expensive than those meant
for masonry.  I assume that there is a reason for that...  :-)

Bob Neidorff <neidorff@uicc.com>


From RPIERCE@augusta.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: RPIERCE@augusta.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: marathon electric
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 03:02:41 GMT
Organization: Info Avenue INTERNET Access
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Dave Schrader <schrader@server.silo.lib.ia.us> wrote:

>I have a motor manufactured by Marathon Electric that I need to make
>run the other way.  It doesn't have any diagram on it.  Does anyone
>happen to have the address for Marathon Electric Mfg, Wisconsin within
>reach ?
>                                Dave Schrader

Dave. You didn't say if the motor was single or 3phase.
If it is a single phase 120volt motor, look in the wiring access
cover.  If it is reversable there should be a wire with the number 5
and another wire marked with the number 8.  Put the number  5 wire
where the number 8 wire was and the number 8 wire where the number 5
wire was.  Most of the time there will be a label on the underside of
the cover that tells how to do that.  
The above steps should be the same for a dual voltage (120/240v)
motors.
If there are no numbers on the wires, check to see if the wires are
different colors. The color codes for the wires are as follows:
1-Blue
2-White
3-Orange
4-Yellow	
5- Black........swap this one with the Red wire
6-N/A
7-N/A
8-Red............swap this one with the Black wire
The 2 brown wires may/may not be the thermal overload switch.

If the motor is a 3phase motor, shaft dirrection can be changed by
swapping T-1 with T-2 or T-3, doesn't really matter.

Hope you get going in the right direction!
Ray Pierce 



From psh@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:16:31 -0700
Organization: Island Net in Victoria, B.C. Canada
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andy popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>sorry to disagree jens
>but i have owned 2 FORD explores in the past 3 years
>they are mechanicly perfect not a single problem in 50,000+miles
>and i will most likely buy my third one in june (no i don't work for
>FORD)


I am glad that your experience was so positive. Maybe they are doing
things a bit different for Explorers or maybe I got a
Monday-after-the-long-weekend edition ... who knows. All I know is
that I like the looks of the F250 over the chev trucks and that's why
I bought the Ford. Next time I will try to let better judgement
prevail. I don't know if Chev's are any better but I don't think they
could be worse.

If the Japanese would make a decent 3/4 ton 4*4, I would not hesitate
!!!

Jens


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!news.aimnet.com!news
From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Best beginner book on blacksmithing?
Date: 26 Sep 1996 03:02:40 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
Lines: 18
Sender: kopfj@mailhub.aimnet.com
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T&A wrote:
> 
> Hi--
> 
> I just saw a demo of blacksmithing at my local historical museum and think,
> "my that's neat!"  Maybe I can build a combo BBQ/furnace for the backyard!?
> Anyways, I need a decent intro book.  Anyone have suggestions?

Check out the Centaur Forge Catalog -- they have lots of books.

Centaur Forge Ltd.
117 North Spring Street
Post Office Box 340
Burlington, WI  53105-0340

phone: 1-414-763-9175

JK


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: telling bronze from brass???
Date: 26 Sep 1996 03:04:45 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
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In article <felice.246.3249898E@pioneer.net>
felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) writes:

> I recently got a cored bar of what I think is bronze, at
> my friendly scrap metal yard, but how can I tell?


Try a file -- Bronze is normally much harder than brass, and the file
will tend to slide over rather than removing much metal.

JK


From speff@io.org Fri Sep 27 16:15:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: speff@io.org (Spehro Pefhany)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: temperatures - how to?
Date: 26 Sep 1996 03:28:34 GMT
Organization: Internex Online (shell.io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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ehaddadf@iis.com.br wrought:
: Hi!
: I've been reading, both in books and here, about heat treating, hardening,
: annealing metals.
: I have a Neycraft furnace with just the temperature indicator - no manual
: controls.
: My question: how do I go about doing something like this:
: Heat to 900def F, hold for 10 minutes, remove and quench.

Hmm... you could upgrade the control to one that ramps and soaks etc, but 
that would cost money (say $250-$600 probably). You can probably do ok 
manually if you are not using it much. 

: How do I know that the part has reached 900deg F? I only have an indication
: for the furnace's temperature - not the actual part.

At relatively low temperature like 900F, why not attach a thermocouple 
directly to the part? Assuming the part isn't too pathological a shape 
you will get a much closer number than measuring the air in the furnace. 

: How long should I hold the furnace's temperature for the part to get an even
: temperature?

This depends very much on the part and what you mean by "even". 

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Spehro Pefhany                                  "The Journey is the reward"
speff@io.org                          -------------------------------------
Fax:(905) 332-4270                    (small micro system devt hw/sw + mfg)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=










From p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu Fri Sep 27 16:15:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet
From: p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air hammer as...hammer?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 02:32:26 GMT
Organization: Staff - College of Agriculture
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ddl@harvard.edu (Dan Lanciani) wrote:

>This may seem like a funny question, but does anybody use an air hammer
>tool as a hammer?  I needed a little help driving a ground rod the other
>day ...

Hilti and Milwaukee both sell attachments for electric rotary hammers
made specifically to drive ground rods. Check them out.

Phil Crome



From frwillia@www.ptw.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <3249FA20.5CEE@www.ptw.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:36:00 -0700
From: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
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Dave Ficken wrote:
> 
> In <527kr2$vke@news.myriad.net> laveryt@mail.myriad.net (Bill Averyt)
> writes:
> >
> >I recently purchased at auction a 14" South Bend "Nordic" engine
> lathe.  The cross-slide gib is missing.  The
> >manufacturer shipped me a new gib ($530), but it was the wrong size.
> They say that was the only one they have for that
> >machine.  This is a difficult piece for me to make in my shop.  Is
> there such a thing as a "generic, cut to fit" gib?  I
> >would appreciate any and all comments.
> >
> 
>  Southbend's prices are quite high, but I cannot imagine over $500 for
> a gib. Are you sure that you are using the right nomenclature for the
> part you need? As for the gib being difficult to make, I would consider
> it the easiest thing on the Lathe to make. That assumes you have access
> to a surface grinder. I had a gib for a Sheldon cross slide made up at
> a local machine shop (I didn't have any surface grinders in stock at
> the time.) It cost me a case of Budweiser. Thats about $514.00 cheaper
> than Southbend, and I even got to drink one on delivery.
>  A note on Southbend 14" Lathes. They are kind of white elephants.
> Parts are tough to come by used, so you may be at the mercy of
> Southbend for certain parts. I strongly advise you to assess your
> investment in this machine. If it is in poor shape, or missing lots of
> stuff, I can assure you that it will become a money pit. I know of
> someone that has this machine less the carriage, apron, cross slide,
> and compound. I gave him the same advice. He may be a source of parts
> for you in the future if he still has the machine.
>  Regards,
> Dave Ficken
> Meridian Machinery " A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
> http://hre.com/meridianWhen I machined the "T" slotted cross slide for my 9" South Bend I also 
had to machine a gib for it.  It didn't take very long and works 
perfectly.  To be sure we are talking abou tht same thing, the Gib I 
assume you are talking about is a piece of metal something like 1/8 to 
3/16 of an inch thick, about as wide as the angled face of the gib is 
tall (measured at an angle) and beveled to be horizontal on the edges.

Making it was no trick except for the few minutes it took to make a good 
clamping tool to support it along its length.  

Fitch


From aep19@mail.idt.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Tony P." <aep19@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint? THE MOST DURABLE PAINT OF ALL IS H20-CURE URETHANE
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:47:08 -0700
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To: Christopher Lau <cclau@bmersab2.bnr.ca>

My question is: do you really mean the MOST DURABLE PAINT you can get?
It's not epoxy.  The paints suggested are all durable and good corrosion-resisters.

   The most durable paint you'll ever find in moisture-cured urethane.  It's a one-part 
paint that comes in gloss black, silver and clear.  Clear isn't for use on 
sunlight-exposed surfaces (turns dull due to UV, but doesn't hurt it a bit.

   This stuff can literally be brushed or sprayed on an anvil (not much difference in 
appearance, especially with a foam brush).  After frying, you can dent the metal without 
injuring the paint.  If you get it on you, you will wear it until your skin wears off.  
It can be immersed in salt water essentially indefinitely without deterioration or 
corrosion.

   Its sole drawback is _you will never remove it!  I don't een think the best strippers 
will work.  The longer it's on, the harder it gets, and humidity actually _hardens_ it. 
 

	We use this stuff on restored automobile frames, just so that we never, ever 
have to strip and repaint them again (not on "show" cars -- too valuable to use anything 
nonoriginal, but any others).

	Trust me.  You will never injure this stuff, nor ever have to paint again.  It's 
not cheap; about $25 or more/qt.  Get the thinner that it uses if you want to spray.  
Don't breathe it, though it's only one-part and not nearly as bad as, say, two-part 
polyurethane or epoxy.  You can get it from any auto-restoration outfit, like Eastwood 
(in the FAQ)(yes, Eastwood _is_ expensive on everything, so I never use them) or direct 
>from  POR-15 (a manufacturer, has an 800-number) or from others under the name "Miracle 
Paint," including J.C. Whitney (item 12DH1079R/black; 12DH1080X/silver12DH1081N/clear.  

It's $27.99/qt. in catalogue 594J (good through 12/31/96), but the catalogue has a "10% 
off" sticker (discount #B-09-1) bringing it down to about what it should really cost 
(Whitney always has this gimmick: 10% off after you order a time or two, 10 % anyway if 
you ask or read the catalogue back page) basically alway a 10% discount available unless 
on sale).

	You have to try this stuff once, if only to see a paint that is a real marvel.
(BTW I don't work for any of these folks -- or anyone else for that matter -- but after 
ten years I still giggle over this stuff when I use it, BUT I DON'T GET MY HANDS IN IT 
SO I WON'T WEAR IT FOR A MONTH!)


From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:50:44 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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andy popky wrote:
> 
> sorry to disagree jens
> but i have owned 2 FORD explores in the past 3 years
> they are mechanicly perfect not a single problem in 50,000+miles
> and i will most likely buy my third one in june (no i don't work for
> FORD)
> 
> regards
> ap


Two in a row makes you one lucky guy.  If you lived in Colorado, I'd 
have you buy a lottery ticket for me.  I had a Ford Explorer that took 
four sets of brakes and rotors in less than 30,000 miles.  The Ford 
dealer told me that Ford had a pad/rotor incompatability problem, and 
couldn't fix the front brakes with factory parts.  I went all the way 
up to Ford national, and was told the same thing all the way up.  

Finally, I sold the Explorer at a significant loss, and bought a 4 
year old Landcruiser.  No problems since....

Regards,

Mike


From frwillia@www.ptw.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <3249FCD6.28C2@www.ptw.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:47:34 -0700
From: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Saw
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Lee Marshall wrote:
> 
> itsme wrote:
> >
> > tristerk@aol.com (Trister K) wrote:
> >
> > >What kind of saw would I want for cutting small lengths (6-16 inches) of
> > >stainless steel (440c and ATS-35) up to a quater inch thick? What kind of
> > >blades?
> >
> 
> For doing a fair amount of cutting of this type of material, I would use
> a "wet" cutting horizontal band saw, with hydraulic down feed. The
> imports are ranging about 7-800 dollars. A vari-tooth 5-8 bi-metal blade
> (I use Lennox) would give pretty good life. Stainless is fairly hard to
> cut and dry cutting will typically kill the blade long before it's time.
> I use a lubricant sold by my Lennox distributor call "Blazol 2000" which
> is cut 5 to 1 with water. It doesn't get rank in odor and in fact I also
> use it as my tapping fluid and mist coolant on the mills & lathes
> (cutting it further).
> Lee
> --
>   _
>     __--´o`--_
> __-'           `_
> ||               |___,         O   O    N
> ||______    _____|___|      D
> | |_____|__|            Y
> | |     |  | B  O  N N
> | |_____|  |
> |_|_____|_ | E N G I N
> ||_____ o \|            E
> | |=  =\   \_________,      E
> | |=  = \   o_____|__|         R  I  N  G
> |_|=__=__\__/
> |__________|
> 
>                    "MAKING A GOOD IMPRESSION"What is the difference between the coolent you are using and soluable 
oil?  I used soluable oil once and had two impressions - first, and the 
only positive thing, it is great while you are cuttintg.  On the down 
side it gets rancid, grows alge, stained my mill table black in places, 
and is a real problem to legaly dispose of when it goes bad.

I've been using dark cutting oil ever since but would really like to find 
something better with out all the bad features of soluable oil.

Fitch


From QBCA53A@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: QBCA53A@prodigy.com (T J. Lindsay)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lindsay - New Books
Date: 26 Sep 1996 14:19:00 GMT
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The new fall metalworking catalog is in the mail. 

In it are several new books:

   Elements of Machine Work
            companion to Advanced Machine Work
   Amateur Work Magazine
            reprints of turn-of-the-century how-to magazine articles
   Graduating, Engraving and Etching
            engraving rules, instruments, and more

Also available but not yet listed in any catalog is Boy Mechanic
volume 3, available at $19.95. A limited cloth edition will be in stock 
soon at $29.95.

If you're not on our mailing list and want a catalog, send us your 
address via email. Include your zipcode. Margaret checks email every 
morning for catalog requests and gets them out same day.

Until I get a web site up and running, these postings are about the 
best I can do.

Lindsay


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: 26 Sep 1996 03:34:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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The book "Building a Small Lathe" by L.C. Mason, describes construction 
of a very nice looking little back gear flat bed lathe.  The book was 
published by Argus, but it is out of print.  Perhaps there are some used 
copies around somewhere.

Regards,

Chuck Kuhn



From gdgoen19@eos Fri Sep 27 16:15:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@eos>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Foredom rotary shaft tool??
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 00:27:26 -0400
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My "parts" pile has recently been graced by the carcass of a rotary
shaft tool made by the Foredom Co.  Unfortunately the hand piece is
missing from the end of the rotary shaft.  Does anyone know anything
about this company or this particular product ??  Anyone know of a 
source for a replacement handpiece ?  

Thanks

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net




From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 26 Sep 1996 05:08:49 GMT
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>      Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
>      Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.

I have a copy of this phamphlet.  I don't think it provides what the title promises.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 26 Sep 1996 05:14:15 GMT
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Since most bearings (at least in the machines I can afford) are lubed with what
is called a total loss system, the oil does not stick around and plate contaminants 
out on the internal surfaces.

Therefore, I submit that a good high-quality synthetic motor oil is indeed a 
good machine tool lubricant.

Fact is I use Mobil 1 in 20-50 for my plain-bearing Rockford and Mobil 1 5-30 for
my Bridgeport spindle bearings.

The Rockford's bearings seems to run cooler and the Bridgeport's certainly do.

Also, since most of the specialty machine tool oils are sold in 1 gal minimums,
the quart container of the auto oil is much more convenient and, I suspect,
because the oil is used faster (on a percentage basis) has less chance of
oxidizing before it is used.

Incoming!  :-)

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 26 Sep 1996 05:21:39 GMT
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Ah, but there are the smaller (in length) Acorn collets that go up to
1 inch and more in size.  They are short enought that you can make an
adaptor.

ETR (Israel) makes a great set of collets.  Buy the collets, the clamping
nut and the wrench.  Then make your own adaptor out of, say, a 1.5" diameter
bar of leadloy (make it easy on yourself).

The steps are:
1. fit the bar to your spindle nose (just like a backing plate)
2. bore the front taper to fit the ETR collet series you have chosen
3. cut a thread to accept the clamping nut.

I made such an adaptor for my 6" craftsman about 3 years ago.  Total runout
of a bar clamped in the collet system equaled the runout of the spindle nose
itself.

Each collet costs between $20 & $35.  The nut cost about $25 and the wrench about
$25.

Best of all, the spindle bore is not reduced or blocked using this approach.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Jim Waggener" <creativ@norfolk.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foredom rotary shaft tool??
Date: 26 Sep 1996 10:25:15 GMT
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> My "parts" pile has recently been graced by the carcass of a rotary
> shaft tool made by the Foredom Co.  Unfortunately the hand piece is
> missing from the end of the rotary shaft.  Does anyone know anything
> about this company or this particular product ??  Anyone know of a 
> source for a replacement handpiece ?  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net
> 
> 
> 
Foredom is an excellent flex-shaft machine that I use daily.
There is a wide selection of handpieces available that are completely
interchangeable. the model #30 is the standard handpiece and has a geared
chuck. I bought mine years ago from a jewelry supply catalog. I believe it
was Rio Grand in Alburqurue (sp) NM. The folks at rec.crafts.jewelry could
give you a list of suppliers.

Jim Waggener


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:15:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: German "Prazi" Machines?
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A friend has one.  It is well equipt, is accurate, and well finished.  
The downside is, no back gear, and the tailstock can't be offset.


In a previous article, dhills@onramp.net (Dave Hills) says:

>Does anyone buy, use, or have information, experience, or advice on the
>German made "Prazi" machines?  I know they are not cheap, but are they
>worth thier price?  I don't believe I have seen them mentioned here
>before.
>
>-- 
>Dave Hills, P.E.
>DH Associates
>Electronic Power Supply Engineering
>dhills@onramp.net
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 26 Sep 1996 16:44:58 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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Dave,

I've contacted Hardinge to see about publishing that list, but have not
yet heard back. If they have a web page, that would be great, otherwise,
if they'll let me, I'll put it up on our page.

We'll see...
 

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/26/96 11:44
 http://www.loganact.com




From cwh@aloft.att.com Fri Sep 27 16:15:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!news.sol.net!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!news
From: Carl Hoffmeyer <cwh@aloft.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How Good/Bad Is My New Anvil?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 13:51:51 -0700
Organization: Lucent Technologies, Columbus, Ohio
Lines: 15
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John,

Sounds like you have a very nice anvil - and at a good price too!

Many anvils these days have been going for over $2 / lb.
If you look in the Centaur Forge catalogue, you will find very fine
German anvils (Refflinghaus) for over $5 / lb. 

Your anvil is forged.  The sweet, sharp ring, and bounce of the hammer
when struck, is characteristic of a forged rather than cast piece.
(Cast anvils return a rather dull sound and do not "bounce" well.)

Treat it well and it will serve you all your life.
Good Luck,
Carl Hoffmeyer


From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:15:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-8.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 10:24:41 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <52e0d5$h93@herald.concentric.net>
References: <3246C2BB.6F9@ix.netcom.com> <526m5d$b0m@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3246F0C3.66@cc.com> <1996Sep24.125006.25105@roper.uwyo.edu> <52d351$6iq@news1.svc>
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

Why waste your time and possibly screw up your machine jacking around with 
different oils. Here's something to consider. If your machine has a one shot 
lube system, the oil is distributed through meters to the various orifices. 
The meter openings are extremely small and it takes next to nothing to clog 
them. I recently bought a used CNC machine, and after a few weeks of service I 
noticed the ways weren't getting any oil. All the meters and lines were 
clogged with some sort of oil that had gotten hard. I have no idea how long 
this machine had been sitting before I bought it. 
The easiest solution is to just buy a gallon of Mobil Vactra #2 and be done 
with it. It's good for ways and spindle bearings, and at $10 a gallon it's not 
much more than motor oil.


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Fri Sep 27 16:15:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill...
Date: 26 Sep 1996 14:18:31 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <52e3bn$qha@tin.monsanto.com>
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jhko@aol.com (Jhko) wrote:

I put an indicator on a small magnetic holder
>on the spindle and indicated about a 6" circle on the table. The front and
>back readings on the indicator were within about .0003". However, the
>right and left readings (3 and 9 oclock positions, facing the mill) were
>off by about .0025". I read this to mean the column is tilting slightly
>side to side. 
>
>
do I just thank the stars that my drill-mill is as good as it is and
>not worry about it? Will this lack of accuracy really make a difference
>building live steamers? (By the way, I indicated a 2" circle on my
>Sherline mill, and it didn't seem any more accurate).
>
>Joe Osborn
>JOEO@AOL.COM
>
>(Member of the Golden Gate Live Steamers)


Translating your .0025 per 6 inches to a one inch end mill gives only .0004 
deviation from dead flat on the face and .0004 X(cut depth in inches) deviation from 
dead verticle on the side. I personally would never see the deviation.

But if you decide to shim, I would suggest that you check out the following before 
you start:

1. Does the deviation change when you unclamp and reclamp the head at the same 
postion ?

2. Does it change when you unclamp and reclamp at different positions ?

3. Does it change when the down feed is at different positions?

My guess is that all of these will have some effect on the deviation and that no 
amount of shimming will make it perfect at all positions all the time.

Let us know what you find.

Roger Weppelman



From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 10:01:34 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <324AB6EE.62ED@ldl.net>
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I'm not 100% sure, but I believe you sill find that regardless of the 
brand name or the vendor, these imported air tools are all made in the 
same factory, the only difference being the brand name on the sticker 
affixed to the body.  I have several of them, a die grinder, a 3/8" 
butterfly wrench, a sheet metal nibbler, and I have a Black & Decker 1/2" 
air impact wrench, a Mac 3/8" air ratchet (Made in Japan) All but the 
butterfly wrench were found in various pawn shops, oddly enough, the 
butterfly wrench is the only one I have had to replace, though it gets 
used the most, it lasted 2 years.  I have found this equipment to be 
highly serviceable even in semi-professional use and the initail cost is 
low.  My neighbor is retired from teaching machine shop practice in a 
high school; they used a lot of "cheap stuff" in the shop due to theft 
and "wanton destruction" such as clamping a 6" dial caliper in a vise to 
see just how far it will bend without breaking...
> 
> I'm the foreman of a student run machine shop here on campus and we're looking
> to acquire a set of air tools (much lower walk-off potential than electric)
> such as a die grinder, air drill, impact wrench, etc. I've been glancing
> through the ENCO catalog and they seem to have pretty good prices but I'm
> wondering that the long term durability of there tools is. Price is definitely
> a factor for us but we would rather spend more on a tool which would stay
> useful longer. Are there any other places we should look (MSC, M-C)?
> 
> Matt Dilligan
> Foreman, Caltech Student Shop



From jegan@theriver.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.theriver.com!usenet
From: John & Theresa Egan <jegan@theriver.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 13:25:33 -0700
Organization: The River Internet Access Co.
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <324AE6BD.394A@theriver.com>
References: <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu> <526mdf$b0m@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> 
> Chester A. Roberts, Jr. (ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote:
> 
> : A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric    
  .....Clip......

> :    SOOOOOO..... If you actually know how to make a 10% solution
> : using swimming pool conditioner (sodium bisulfate) OR how to make
> : a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.
> :    PLEASE no guessing...but if you do know I'd sure appreciate
> : your advice!
> 
> I think batterty acid is 30% by weight (anyone: please correct me if
> I'm wrong) - so if you dilute 1 part battery acid with 2 parts water,
> (by volume) you will get very close to 10% by weight.  If you dilute
> 1 part acid with 2 parts water by weight, you'll get even closer.......................................................................

Chester,

A good hydrometer with numeric graduations can measure the specific 
gravity of your dilute acid and its % concentration can then be 
calculated by comparing the specific gravity of pure water (specific 
gravity = 1.000) and concentrated (100%) sulfuric acid (specific gravity 
= 2.52 ...I think). 

specific gravity of 10% acid = 90% of 1.000 + 10% of 2.52 = 1.15

Check the value of the specific gravity for conc.H2SO4 but otherwise the 
method should allow you to measure and adjust the concentration of your 
acid by adding acid or water. DON'T use (100%) concentrated acid!!!!! 
Even then only pour the acid into the water slowly while stirring.  

The same method for sodium bisulfate is more difficult due to the 
difference between the atomic weights of sodium and hydrogen.

(As above: Anyone, please correct me if I am wrong!)

John



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!EU.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!neptune.gan.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!new-news.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!usenet
From: "Jim Waggener" <creativ@norfolk.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: benchtop lathe for nonferrous metals . . reccomendations?
Date: 26 Sep 1996 10:29:00 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I'm looking for a small lathe for turning sterling findings and finials.
Any reccomendations in the below $800 range?

Jim Waggener


From regisg@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foredom rotary shaft tool??
Date: 26 Sep 1996 10:14:27 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <52dl23$1h8@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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You have an excellent tool there.  Foredom's phone number is 
(203)792-8622.  Hand peices are available at many locations.

Good luck
Regis

Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@eos> wrote:
>
>My "parts" pile has recently been graced by the carcass of a rotary
>shaft tool made by the Foredom Co.  Unfortunately the hand piece is
>missing from the end of the rotary shaft.  Does anyone know anything
>about this company or this particular product ??  Anyone know of a 
>source for a replacement handpiece ?  
>
>Thanks
>
>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net
>
>




From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.kei.com!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver & Deming Drill Bits
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 96 20:22:03 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <52768o$sng@herald.concentric.net>
References: <32414D73.C27@eagle.wbm.ca> <nhull-2009961125080001@user-37kb8dj.dialup.mindspring.com> <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net> <526kkt$hod@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>
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In article <526kkt$hod@bmdhh222.bnr.ca>, mcnair@bnr.ca (Ken McNair) wrote:
>
>In article <51ucll$1rc@herald.concentric.net>, A@concentric.net (john) 
writes:
> 
>|> The universal law on cutting tools is, if it isn't made in the USA, it 
isn't a 
>|> cutting tool. Chinese or Polish drills arn't worth having even as a bad 
joke.
>|> The Silver and Demming drills I use are made by Viking Drill in St. Paul 
MN. 
> 
>Typical USA-centric view of the world. I got quite a few nice drills made
>in Sheffield England where they were making drills before there was a USA !
>(You're right about E.Europe and the far East though).

Sorry if my attempt to insult foreign shitty cutting tools was taken the wrong 
way be certian Canadians and Englishmen. Actually, I didn't realize any of you 
even made cutting tools. Around here you have a choice between American(good),
Jap(pretty good), isreal(shit), Polish(shit), Chinese(shit), Spanish(really 
shit).
I was going to revise my statement to any country where the people speak 
english has good cutting tools, but now I'm  not sure if the USA qualifies.
Be that as it may, I think you all know what I ment.


From Uril@Interline.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Uri Levy" <Uril@Interline.net>
Subject: CAST METAL PATIO FURNITURE
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: Interline Communication Group
Message-ID: <01bbaba1$2b921960$13cae3cd@computer1>
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155
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Date: 26 Sep 96 11:49:39 GMT
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High Quality Cast Metal Patio Furniture and Garden Accessories!

Whether you are looking to add a touch of class to your garden or enhance
your yard, Wiggins
provides easy to assemble, knocked down package of our outstanding and
innovative cast metal
products in our hand painted antique finish. 


You can use our friendly and secure order form to make your order on-line
with our 30 Day Money Back Guarantee. 

For additional information visit our site at: http://www.wigginsforge.com




From mermac@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: 26 Sep 1996 12:13:42 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <52ds1m$20s@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <09960824071726.OUI50.SLogan@gnn.com> <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <09960825074742.OUI09.SLogan@gnn.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 26  7:13:42 AM CDT 1996

In <09960825074742.OUI09.SLogan@gnn.com> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
writes: 
>
>In article <529l78$10d8@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>, From 
>jrro@watson.ibm.com, the following was written:
>> 3C can be used in a 3AT machine
>
>Incorrect.  A Collet, 5-C, 3-C, 3-AT or almost any other, makes
contact
>with the spindle or adapter in two places:  The front taper AND the
back
>bearing diameter. Otherwise the collet can be crooked.
>
>According to the Hardinge catalog (a WONDERFUL reference tool), the
3-AT
>has the following dimensions: Back Bearing Diameter .687, Thread
>637-26, Length 2.313.  The 3-C has the following dimensions: Back
>Bearing Diameter .650, Thread .640-26, Length 2.688.
>
>And before anyone asks, the 5-C has the following dimensions: Back
>Bearing Diameter 1.250, Thread 1.238-20, Length 3.281.  
>
>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/25/96 07:56
> http://www.loganact.com
>
>
 A 3C collet can be used in most 3AT machines and vise versa. HOWEVER,
you need to change the spindle adapter and you may have to alter the
length of the rear bushing for the drawbar slightly.
 According to my copy of the Hardinge collet guide, the threads are
640-26 in both cases.
 I have some spare 3AT spindle adapters if anyone wants to convert from
3C to 3AT. Sorry can't help if you want to go the other way.
 Also, I agree that the Hardinge pamphlet is a valuable tool for
identifying collets. In fact, some time ago I ran off a bunch of copies
of the page that gives dimensions. I have been giving them away slowly
to anyone that sends a SASE and requests one. If anyone wants one,
send me a SASE @ Meridian Machinery P.O. Box 1 Babylon, NY 11702
Perhaps someone with a scanner can post a copy. Sorry, I am quite low
tech at this point.
 Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery "A different kind of Machinery Dealer"
http://hre.com/meridian

  


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: WTB: For 9" SB lathe and Van Norman 1/2 mill
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Bob, Haskell wrote:

> For a Van Norman # 1/2 Mill
> 
>         - drawbar - the threads in mine are pretty shot
>         - end mill holders
>         - documentation - operator/repair manuals, lubrication charts, etc.
> 
> I've checked with Sobel (no luck with the lathe items and he's checking on the
> mill pieces) and have also sent a message to Dave at meridian machinery.  I'll
> be also getting a hold of Metal Lathe Associates.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob Haskell

Dear Bob,

I'm not being successful in emailing you; could you send me your email
address. Thanks,


-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From johnd@islandnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!usenet
From: johnd@islandnet.com (John Dammeyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Canadian Built Standard Modern Lathes
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:14:17 GMT
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <52c7cr$glo@sanjuan.islandnet.com>
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kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Standard Modern (Kestrel Machine Tools Inc.) had their lathes on display 
>at IMTS '96.  In the short time I had to look, the machines looked pretty 
>well done.
[snip]
>Chuck Kuhn

Would you post their address please.

Thanks a bunch.

John.




Pioneers are the ones, face down in the mud,
with arrows in their backs.
Automation Artisans Inc.      Ph. 604-544-4950
6468 Loganberry Place         Fax 604-544-4954
Victoria BC CANADA V8Z 7E6



From mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!van-bc!vanbc!mfraser
From: mfraser@vanbc.wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: benchtop lathe for nonferrous metals . . reccomendations?
Date: 26 Sep 1996 12:14:29 GMT
Organization: Wimsey Information Services
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Sherline, for sure!

Jim Waggener (creativ@norfolk.infi.net) wrote:
: I'm looking for a small lathe for turning sterling findings and finials.
: Any reccomendations in the below $800 range?

: Jim Waggener


From ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no Fri Sep 27 16:16:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!Norway.EU.net!online.no!news.online.no!ohk
From: ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen FOU.TD/DELAB)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool Post Grinder
Date: 26 Sep 1996 13:55:01 GMT
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In-reply-to: T Lipton's message of 25 Sep 1996 01:06:55 GMT

In article <52a0jf$6gg@ccnet2.ccnet.com> T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com> writes:

    I contructed a tool post grinder earlier this year. The main spindle
   contains two angular contact precision bearings. I machined a internal
   taper and nut to fit a commercial precision collet. It is driven with
    a small cross section vee belt (approx .20" width) I used my 22,000 rpm 
   3 hp plunge router to drive the whole works. I machined a step pulley 
   with a half inch diameter shank to fit the collet of the router. 
   My router has variable speed, and with the step pulleys I can use 
   small mounted stones down to around a half inch in diameter without 
   any trouble.

     TML

An excellent idea! But, given that the router is variable speed, why
not just use the router itself, without another main spindle?
Imprecise bearings, wrong type of collet, or what?

Ole-Hj. Kristensen


From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 3 Jaw Chuck Rehab
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 10:52:52 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
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I recently bought a nice, used South Bend 9 x 36 Model B.  It came with a 
bunch of tooling.  The jaws of the 3 jaw universal are in sad shape.  
Apart from replacing them (assuming I can find them) is there a 
relatively simple procedure (limited expertise) for returning them to an 
acceptable level of tolerance?  It also came with a 4 jaw independent 
(good shape) for more precise work.

TIA

Kevin Rhodes


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 26 Sep 1996 13:53:20 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <52d3f7$6iq@news1.svc>, Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> writes:
>Since most bearings (at least in the machines I can afford) are lubed with what
>is called a total loss system, the oil does not stick around and plate contaminants 
>out on the internal surfaces.
>
>Therefore, I submit that a good high-quality synthetic motor oil is indeed a 
>good machine tool lubricant.
>
>Fact is I use Mobil 1 in 20-50 for my plain-bearing Rockford and Mobil 1 5-30 for
>my Bridgeport spindle bearings.
>
>The Rockford's bearings seems to run cooler and the Bridgeport's certainly do.
>
>Also, since most of the specialty machine tool oils are sold in 1 gal minimums,
>the quart container of the auto oil is much more convenient and, I suspect,
>because the oil is used faster (on a percentage basis) has less chance of
>oxidizing before it is used.
>
>Incoming!  :-)
>
>Best regards,
>
>Mike Rehmus
>

Not from me - I had previously posted that I also use Mobil 1 for the
headstock bearings on my SouthBend lathe (also 5-30).  I have done
this since a machinist here at work suggested it.  I had been using the
"official" south bend oil in the spindle, and had the following problem:

When the bearing shims were adjusted to spec (with so many pounds
of force on the spindle, it deflected so much) then the spindle would
run hot when run at the machine's top speed for very long.

I drained the reservoirs and flushed them, and re-filled with Mobil 1,
and the problem has never repeated.  I drain, flush, and re-fill
about twice a year.  

Advantages - spindle runs cooler at high speeds.  Oil is always available,
as I run it in my bikes - no need to purchase gallon cans which then
take up room and slowly oxidize to death in my basement.

Disadvantages - this is a detergent oil.  Does it pull old junk out
of the reservoir and circulate it into the bearings?  (Hmm - maybe
I'll drain the headstock tonight) Will this cause the bearings to blow
out in a few years?  

I guess the best of all possible worlds would be to disassemble the
entire headstock, clean the reservoirs spotless, and then re-fill.

The rest of the machine (except the ways) gets 5 wt ATF.  



===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no Fri Sep 27 16:16:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen FOU.TD/DELAB)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: 26 Sep 1996 14:10:08 GMT
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In-reply-to: Mike Rehmus's message of 26 Sep 1996 05:14:15 GMT

In article <52d3f7$6iq@news1.svc> Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com> writes:


   Since most bearings (at least in the machines I can afford) are lubed with what
   is called a total loss system, the oil does not stick around and plate contaminants 
   out on the internal surfaces.

   Therefore, I submit that a good high-quality synthetic motor oil is indeed a 
   good machine tool lubricant.

   Fact is I use Mobil 1 in 20-50 for my plain-bearing Rockford and Mobil 1 5-30 for
   my Bridgeport spindle bearings.

   The Rockford's bearings seems to run cooler and the Bridgeport's certainly do.

   Also, since most of the specialty machine tool oils are sold in 1 gal minimums,
   the quart container of the auto oil is much more convenient and, I suspect,
   because the oil is used faster (on a percentage basis) has less chance of
   oxidizing before it is used.

   Incoming!  :-)

   Best regards,

   Mike Rehmus

A mechanical workshop around here is doing exactly the same with their
lathes and mills, except for the ways. They suggested I use synthetic
gear oil or hydraulic oil if I was nervous about using motor oil.

Ole-Hj. Kristensen


From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: babbiting bearings
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John-

Try Sid Suedemeir at Little Giant Automotive:

Automotive Inc./Little Giant
       420 4th Corso
       Nebraska City, NE 68410
       402-873-6603
       Parts for 25, 50 & 100 pound Little Giant power hammers. 
       These people bought the Little Giant company.

He sells parts for triphammers, including babbit and babbitrite for
bearings. He's really friendly and will help you out, even though you
aren't working on a triphammer.

It's not too hard to do, mainly you need to make sure that there is
nowhere for the molten metal to run that it's not supposed to. Preheat
the shafts and bearing case (to a 'spit sizzle' I was told), and pour
your babbit. You do half of the bearing at at time, so you can open it
again later. Also, you put in shims so that as the bearing wears you can
adjust slop.

john d. robinson wrote:
> 
> Howdy,
>          I have a very old two stage air compressor that has babbited
> bearings. I am in need of information on re babbiting the rod bearing,
> can someone direct me towards an information souce on babbiting
> bearings? thanks,
>         It's made by the  U.S. Air Compressor Co. It's a lovely casting, the
> opposing cylinders are cast with the main frame as a unit, the single
> throw crank has a piston rod to the low compression piston.  Both the
> high (1.5") and the low (3") compression pistons are bolted to a
> carrier and as the crank turns the carrier ossicillates back and forth
> between the cylinders.
> 
>              John Robinson, Mechanician
>   Mechanical Engineering University of Wisconsin
>                 1513 University Ave.
>                  Madison, Wi. 53706
>                     608-262-3606
>                   FAX 608-265-2316
>         Current World Land Speed Record Holder
>                 Bonneville Salt Flats
>           H/GCC 92 cu.in. 1980 Dodge Colt
>                   131.333 MPH set 1995
>                   136.666 MPH set 1996

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric vs Inches for modeling
Date: 24 Sep 1996 00:21:06 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
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Frank Kerfoot <f.kerfoot@att.com> wrote:
DELETED
 I 
>don't see much modeling (at least of trains) in 1/10 or 1/100, which 
>would cater to metric measurements.
>
>Frank Kerfoot
>f.kerfoot@att.com
>

HO ....... or better HO! Perhaps the 
most popular scale for model trains
is 3.5mm to the foot! (appx 1/87)


Reg Barron



From asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca Fri Sep 27 16:16:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!lll-winken.llnl.gov!hookup!news.nstn.ca!asharpen
From: asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Andrew Yabsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: help fing "buffing" wheel(spindle) for bench grinders ?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:57:07 -0400
Organization: na
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35579 sci.engr.metallurgy:8808

   

   I have a buffing whell with a 1/2 or 5/8 arbour (cant remember) thatI
picked up years ago.  Its about 3" wide & about 3" diameter.  I would say
it was cloth but its more like a plastic "cloth-like" substance.  A bit
like the 3M abrasive pads but alot thicker & harder.  Also I believe that
it is woven around the end of the arbour.  It is great for putting a matte
finish on metals, and removes metal quickly.  Does anyone think this
sounds familiar or can anyone recommend a place that might know about this
???

Thx alot-


Andrew YAbsley
asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca


From jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ix.net!usenet
From: jgrot@tso.cin.ix.net (Mike Fallopian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: 26 Sep 1996 16:02:28 GMT
Organization: Yoyodyne
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <52e9ek$3p1@news.ix.net>
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In article <324AE6BD.394A@theriver.com>, jegan@theriver.com says...
>
>Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
>> 
>> Chester A. Roberts, Jr. (ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote:
>> 
>> : A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric    
>  .....Clip......
>
>> :    SOOOOOO..... If you actually know how to make a 10% solution
>> : using swimming pool conditioner (sodium bisulfate) OR how to make
>> : a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.
>> :    PLEASE no guessing...but if you do know I'd sure appreciate
>> : your advice!
>> 
>> I think batterty acid is 30% by weight (anyone: please correct me if
>> I'm wrong) - so if you dilute 1 part battery acid with 2 parts water,
>> (by volume) you will get very close to 10% by weight.  If you dilute
>> 1 part acid with 2 parts water by weight, you'll get even 
closer.......................................................................
>
>Chester,
>
>A good hydrometer with numeric graduations can measure the specific 
>gravity of your dilute acid and its % concentration can then be 
>calculated by comparing the specific gravity of pure water (specific 
>gravity = 1.000) and concentrated (100%) sulfuric acid (specific gravity 
>= 2.52 ...I think). 
>
>specific gravity of 10% acid = 90% of 1.000 + 10% of 2.52 = 1.15
>

Just checked the CRC... the specific gravity of a 10% (weight) solution of 
sulfuric acid in water is 1.068.

Jeff



From erich10983@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: erich10983@aol.com (ERich10983)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bib seat reamer or dresser
Date: 23 Sep 1996 19:28:18 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I recently helped a friend clean out his fathers home.  Along with useful
goodies from Starett and other brands was a small tool in the origional
box was a Keystone Bibb seat reamer.  Its about 2 inches long, 1 1/2
inches dia for the large diameter, tapering to 1/2 inch at the small dia. 
It has an external and internal spiral thread.  Its hollow to receive a
shaft that has one of four rosette cutters screwed on the end.  What is
this thing?    Earle


From lkbonham@i-link.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham@i-link.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Century 120 MIG- any good?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 10:36:27 +0000
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I'm thinking of getting the Century 120 MIG setup (the local SAM'S has it 
for $299 -- 120 VAC input, 90 amp capacity, comes with wire, gloves, hood, 
video, etc., etc., etc.).  I know that comparable systems by Lincoln, Miller, 
Hobart, etc. are considered better, especially for professionals, but are 
about twice as expensive.

I'm going to be using it for relatively thin (>1/4") stainless and mild steel 
work.  For the typical weekend user, is the Century machine OK, or is cheap 
junk that is better avoided?

TIA ----> LKB


From tmooney@intac.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ted Mooney <tmooney@intac.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=C4=C4 Need help finding BUFFING WHEEL 4 bench grinders ?? =C4=C4?=
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:56:03 -0400
Organization: www.finishing.com
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Andrew Yabsley wrote:
> 
>    I have a buffing whell with a 1/2 or 5/8 arbour (cant remember) thatI
> picked up years ago.  Its about 3" wide & about 3" diameter.  I would say
> it was cloth but its more like a plastic "cloth-like" substance.  A bit
> like the #M abrasive pads but alot thicker & harder.  Also I believe that
> it is woven around the end of the arbour.  It is great for putting a matte
> finish on metals, and removes metal quickly.  Does anyone think thgis
> sounds familiar or can anyone recommend a place that might know about this
> ???
> 
> Thx alot-
> 
> Andrew YAbsley
> asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca



At http://www.finishing.com/Products/index.html you'll find complete 
contact info for Jackson-Lea and Spartan Felt & Buff -- two companies 
who will know exactly what you're describing and who can doubtless 
supply it.

-- Ted Mooney
------------
Visit 'the home page of the finishing industry'
http://www.finishing.com
------------


From wwebster@nortel.ca Fri Sep 27 16:16:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:56:05 -0400
Organization: Bell Northern Research
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I'll put my flame shield on before I ask this question.
Okay, it's on now.  Light the burners!

What about 3-in-1 oil?  What is this stuff, and would it be any good for
those people with a very small lathe?  

I happened to notice it at the hardware store the other night.  Appears to
be 2 grades: for motor bearings and for general purpose lubrication
(household).

Okay, after-burners off.

I use way oil and mobile 1.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:23 EDT 1996
Article: 35585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill...
Date: 26 Sep 1996 12:28:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Oops, I must be getting old. The email address I listed at the end of my
message is wrong. My correct email address is: JHKO@AOL.COM,*not*
joeo@aol.com (joeo is my work email address, at a different URL). 

Thanks in advance for the help,

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From A@concentric.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: A@concentric.net (john)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machine coolant
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 18:20:23 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <324ADE60.B79@cc.com>,
   "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>john wrote:
>
>> One small reason it might not work is that coolant is also a lubricant, 
which
>> anti freez is not. It's also hard not to get coolant all over your hands 
and
>> occasionally in your face and on your clothes. Anti-freeze is toxic, where
>> most synthetic coolants are not. If your going to leave the coolant in the
>> mill base for long periods of time, my advice would be to go with a 
synthetic
>> as it won't rot like soluble oil. I use Swisslube blaser 2000 or Wynns 941.
>> They're good down to -90f, I hope your shop doesn't get colder than that.
>> The only drawback is that it's pricey. A five gallon pale is about $90, 
which
>> will make 100 gallons of coolant. This might be a life time supply for some
>> people but it's well worth the investment.
>John,
>
>MSC and Grainger don't seem to carry the stuff you recommend. Can you
>give us a source for it?
>
>You also imply that the stuff dilutes: "A five gallon pale is about $90,
>which will make 100 gallons of coolant". Does it dilute with water? How
>much can you dilute it and still retain the non-freezing properties?
>
You dilute it with water. Their data sheet says it resists cold to -90f, but 
doesn't really make it clear whether that's for the concentrate or the mix. I 
buy it at the local industrial supply stores, they all carry one brand or the 
other. The number for Swisslube is 914-294-3200, I'm sure they can tell you 
their closest distributor and answer your freezing question.
John


From philjack@tribeca.ios.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.ios.com!usenet
From: philjack <philjack@tribeca.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wire Forming
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 18:11:42 -0500
Organization: Manhattan Custom Tackle Ltd.
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Does anyone out there have info on small (benchtop) wire forming 
machines? I need to make several thousand very small wire parts and I'm 
looking to either buy a machine or build one. I've never done any wire 
forming and haven't been able to find any reference on how it's done.
TIA,

Phil Koenig


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foredom rotary shaft tool??
Date: 26 Sep 1996 16:33:58 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <52eb9m$aod@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960926002301.3532C-100000@eos>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 26 11:33:58 AM CDT 1996

In <Pine.SOL.3.91.960926002301.3532C-100000@eos> Glenn Goens
<gdgoen19@eos> writes: 
>
>
>My "parts" pile has recently been graced by the carcass of a rotary
>shaft tool made by the Foredom Co.  Unfortunately the hand piece is
>missing from the end of the rotary shaft.  Does anyone know anything
>about this company or this particular product ??  Anyone know of a 
>source for a replacement handpiece ?  
>
>Thanks
>
>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net

We use Foredoms in our shop quite a lot. the flexible shaft is crap,
but the unit is excellent. MSC sells all the repair and replacement
parts for it as well as a large selection of handpieces. BUy an extra
flex shaft or two as they don't last too long!

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com
>



From jhko@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jhko@aol.com (Jhko)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 26 Sep 1996 12:50:40 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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>I think that a poorly designed machine, such as the Jet referred to in
>the HSM article, can be properly sold at a low price.  Now before I get
>flamed, any lathe headstock that relies on set screws, pushing against
>hold down bolts, _is_ poorly designed.

By the way folks, Emco-Maier seems to always be held up as an example of a
"good" German (actually Austrian) lathe. True, they do cost three times as
much, figuring the accessory cost (I know, 'cause I bought one). However,
the headstock design on an Emco Compac 8 is *exactly* the same as the
"crappy" Jet (at one third the price). Yep, it has set screws and all, and
is not machined to the ways. Looks exactly like the picture of the Jet
headstock in the article. However, to be fair, the finish and quality feel
is much higher.

Joe Osborn
JHKO@AOL.COM


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: TOM KRAUSE <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Century 120 MIG- any good?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 11:51:06 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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To: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham@i-link.net>

Louis K. Bonham wrote:
> 
> I'm thinking of getting the Century 120 MIG setup (the local SAM'S has it
> for $299 -- 120 VAC input, 90 amp capacity, comes with wire, gloves, hood,
> video, etc., etc., etc.).  I know that comparable systems by Lincoln, Miller,
> Hobart, etc. are considered better, especially for professionals, but are
> about twice as expensive.
> 
> I'm going to be using it for relatively thin (>1/4") stainless and mild steel
> work.  For the typical weekend user, is the Century machine OK, or is cheap
> junk that is better avoided?
> 
> TIA ----> LKB

As I remember the Century has only two amperage settings,true? if so
this can be very limiting.Have not been real impressed with the quality
of Century.
 I own a Daytona mig and 2 friends own Lincoln sp-100's,all work real 
well,I would by the Lincoln if I had it to do again.(they weren't close
price-wise when I bought mine,have since come down some)
 BTW I biult a vintage stock car with my 130 Daytona,crashed it pretty 
hard-suspension mounts welded up out of 3/16 plate held under the 
pressure of kinked leaf spring and a rear axle that was bent in a 
U-shape--not a busted weld to be found!
Tom


From luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:16:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Stewart <luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Chinese lathes headstock mod for alignment
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 13:00:36 -0400
Organization: The Communications Research Centre
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <324AB6B4.41C67EA6@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
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Jhko wrote:
> 
> Hey Peter and W.J.:
> 
> Hey, at least you guys didn't spend megabucks on an Emco-Maier lathe, like
> I did, which has *exactly* the same headstock design as the Chinese 9"
> lathes. Why not just be happy with what you bought? After you align it, it
> works doesn't it? 

My Emco Compact-8 must be different than yours, as mine already has
the allignment method that they appear to be talking about; mine is
alligned by the rear vee, (if my memory is correct), not with set
screws pushing on clamping screws, or some such. 

ie - I got a Compact-8, used, for what the 9" lathes cost from the
local Enco-equivalent (Busy Bee), and I don't have the hassles that
these guys are trying to fix.

For those who want to know, I purchased it with chucks, tooling, etc,
for GBP 750.00 used; the latest model engineer has a Warco 918 lathe
for GBP 899.00

What is 750 pounds in US$ - about a thousand bucks??? I know that
Busy Bee is selling these kinds of lathes for (from memory again)
$1600 canadian + 15% taxes.

Thanks;

John Stewart
luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca


From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!news.pdx.oneworld.com!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip60.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: benchtop lathe for nonferrous metals . . reccomendations?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:30:19 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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References: <01bbab95$f83acae0$32efdbcd@mcghee>
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X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Get a Taig: inexpensive, adaptable and higher speed capability than the 
sherline, which is important for tiny parts. I've used mine to turn SS stud
earrings. Make sure you get the WW spindle, and a few WW collets for the
wire gauges you are turning (Or get the jacobs chuck and adaptor  and be 
happy with that) since your budget is high. 

By the way, what are the rake angles for turning Sterling silver?


In article <01bbab95$f83acae0$32efdbcd@mcghee> "Jim Waggener" 
>I'm looking for a small lathe for turning sterling findings and finials.
>Any reccomendations in the below $800 range?



From felice@pioneer.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.BSDI.COM!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip60.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Century 120 MIG- any good?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:37:17 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 17
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In article <324A5CAB.3935@i-link.net> "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham@i-link.net> writes:

>I'm thinking of getting the Century 120 MIG setup (the local SAM'S has it 
>for $299 -- 120 VAC input, 90 amp capacity, comes with wire, gloves, hood, 
>video, etc., etc., etc.).  I know that comparable systems by Lincoln, Miller, 
>Hobart, etc. are considered better, especially for professionals, but are 
>about twice as expensive.

>I'm going to be using it for relatively thin (>1/4") stainless and mild steel 
>work.  For the typical weekend user, is the Century machine OK, or is cheap 
>junk that is better avoided?

I bought a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 at the Home Depot for about $300, have
gone through several pounds of wire and love it. It hasn't screwed up yet.
I also see that in the local pawn shops, the price of a used one is higher 
than the $300 I spent, which to me is a good recommendation. The Lincoln has a 
three year warranty as well.


From john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Fri Sep 27 16:16:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news
From: john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu (john d. robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: babbiting bearings
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:54:32 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Mechanical Engineering
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <52ecfg$2a72@news.doit.wisc.edu>
Reply-To: john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu
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Howdy,
	 I have a very old two stage air compressor that has babbited
bearings. I am in need of information on re babbiting the rod bearing,
can someone direct me towards an information souce on babbiting
bearings? thanks,
	It's made by the  U.S. Air Compressor Co. It's a lovely casting, the
opposing cylinders are cast with the main frame as a unit, the single
throw crank has a piston rod to the low compression piston.  Both the
high (1.5") and the low (3") compression pistons are bolted to a
carrier and as the crank turns the carrier ossicillates back and forth
between the cylinders. 

             John Robinson, Mechanician
  Mechanical Engineering University of Wisconsin
                1513 University Ave.
                 Madison, Wi. 53706
                    608-262-3606
                  FAX 608-265-2316
	Current World Land Speed Record Holder 
		Bonneville Salt Flats
   	  H/GCC 92 cu.in. 1980 Dodge Colt 
		  131.333 MPH set 1995
		  136.666 MPH set 1996




From cc708@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Sep 27 16:16:34 EDT 1996
Article: 35595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.acsu.buffalo.edu!news.drenet.dnd.ca!crc-news.doc.ca!nott!cunews!freenet-news.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!cc708
From: cc708@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barry Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP! Need parts source for LEVIN watchmakers lathe
Date: 26 Sep 1996 16:55:25 GMT
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Lines: 9
Sender: cc708@freenet6.carleton.ca (Barry Brown)
Message-ID: <52echt$qqs@freenet-news.carleton.ca>
Reply-To: cc708@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barry Brown)
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet6.carleton.ca


In particular looking for a compound rest and other attachments. What happened
to this company. My last address for them is Culver City Cal. Anyone,
please help. Thanks.
  Barry

--
Barry Brown-cc708@freenet.carleton.ca Ph. 1-819-771-8504 Fax. 1-819-771-2502
Hull,Quebec,Canada


From paul@pcb.co.za Fri Sep 27 16:16:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!news.PBI.net!j6.inktomi.com!re.hotwired.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!hermes.is.co.za!paul.pcb.co.za!paul
From: paul@pcb.co.za (Paul Boulle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silver Solder  with cadmium
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:31:09
Organization: PCB Technologies
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Message-ID: <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: paul.pcb.co.za
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I picked up some silver solder rods cheaply from a second has shop. The rods 
are marked as L_Ag30Cd (DIN 8513). Can anyone tell me what there intended use 
is and why they contain cadmium?


From hagemann@execpc.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hagemann@execpc.com (John P. Hagemann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Used Belt Grinder
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 18:21:50 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress 2.0 Beta #2

Looking for a used belt grinder of the type used to make knives.  I live in 
the Wisconsin area.  If you've got something, drop me a note.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

John P. Hagemann   hagemann@execpc.com


From congreve@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: congreve@ix.netcom.com(Wm. Congreve (Sr.) )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: mounting Foredom in lathe toolpost?
Date: 26 Sep 1996 18:39:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <52eil5$m95@dfw-ixnews8.ix.netcom.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Sep 26  1:39:33 PM CDT 1996

Speaking of Foredoms, I'm thinking of rigging up an adapter which would
dedicate one of my Myford lathe quick-change tool post tool holders to
holding a Foredom headpiece.  Any thoughts on this?  It seems to me it
would be useful for a variety of small-scale surface grinding roles and
also maybe for drilling small holes in connection with an indexing
fixture on the lathe spindle.  I'd just hang the Foredom motor over the
lathe, of course, and avoid kinking the flexible cable.  Any thoughts
on which Foredom headpiece would be best for this? 

By the way, to close with a suggestion: We all know to protect lathes
>from  grit when we grind on the lathe, but I find heavy duty kitchen
aluminum foil to be ideal for the purpose---it wraps around better than
paper does and has none of the snagging dangers that cloth does. You
can cup it right around the spindle, too. 

                   Many thanks
                                 Alan Heldman


From mstokes@iac.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!netnews.com!news.intercon.com!news.iac.net!news
From: Mike Stokes <mstokes@iac.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: Melting furnace and Kiln
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 13:44:58 -0400
Organization: Internet Access Cincinnati 513-887-8877
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I am looking to buy a used melting furnace for
Aluminum. The capacity should be around 10-20 lbs
pouring weight and should be electrically operated.

I am also looking for a small kiln 1x1x2 ft or ???.
also electrically operated.

If anyone has any information please send it to me
thank you

Mike Stokes
mstokes@iac.net


From rmm20@eng.amdahl.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:38 EDT 1996
Article: 35600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
Subject: Re: HELP! Need parts source for LEVIN watchmakers lathe
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: rmm21os
Message-ID: <DyD2FK.28E@ccc.amdahl.com>
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 22:28:32 GMT
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In <52echt$qqs@freenet-news.carleton.ca>, cc708@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Barry Brown) writes:
>
>In particular looking for a compound rest and other attachments. What happened
>to this company. My last address for them is Culver City Cal. Anyone,
>please help. Thanks.
>  Barry
>
>--
>Barry Brown-cc708@freenet.carleton.ca Ph. 1-819-771-8504 Fax. 1-819-771-2502
>Hull,Quebec,Canada

Levin is alive and well on the net.  Not that I can afford them...

URL:  http://www.lainet.com/levin/


 - Robert Mitchell - rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
                     robert@mithril.cupertino.ca.us




From bwoltz@qualcomm.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!qualcomm.com!qualcomm.com!not-for-mail
From: bwoltz@qualcomm.com (Bruce Woltz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: 26 Sep 1996 12:18:07 -0700
Organization: QUALCOMM, Incorporated; San Diego, CA, USA
Lines: 33
Sender: bwoltz@qualcomm.com
Message-ID: <52ektf$a7e@madison.qualcomm.com>
References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <32480323.388895034@news.islandnet.com> <3249D257.737D@ix.netcom.com> <32499B24.1647@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: madison.qualcomm.com

In article <32499B24.1647@ix.netcom.com>,
Mike Patrick  <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
:andy popky wrote:
:> 
:> sorry to disagree jens
:> but i have owned 2 FORD explores in the past 3 years
:> they are mechanicly perfect not a single problem in 50,000+miles
:> and i will most likely buy my third one in june (no i don't work for
:> FORD)
:> 
:> regards
:> ap
:
:
:Two in a row makes you one lucky guy.  If you lived in Colorado, I'd 
:have you buy a lottery ticket for me.  I had a Ford Explorer that took 
:four sets of brakes and rotors in less than 30,000 miles.  The Ford 
:dealer told me that Ford had a pad/rotor incompatability problem, and 
:couldn't fix the front brakes with factory parts.  I went all the way 
:up to Ford national, and was told the same thing all the way up.  
:
:Finally, I sold the Explorer at a significant loss, and bought a 4 
:year old Landcruiser.  No problems since....
:
:Regards,
:
:Mike

Isn't the Explorer made by Mazda? Mazda actualy makes a 
2 door SUV that looks exacty like the explorer.

Bruce



From kolesnik.vyvx1@gw.twc.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kolesnik <kolesnik.vyvx1@gw.twc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lorch LAS lathe ???
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:20:52 +0000
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I'm looking for info on this small German metal lathe stamped
Lorch LAS 27349 1961 approx 4in by 12in.  It needs a chuck and it looks 
like a non-standard spindle with metric threads.  I haven't purchased it 
yet becasue I need an idea how much a decent chuck will cost if its 
available.  73  Hank  WD5JFR


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: benchtop lathe for nonferrous metals . . reccomendations?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:24:36 GMT
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felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) wrote:

>Get a Taig: inexpensive, adaptable and higher speed capability than the 
>sherline, which is important for tiny parts. I've used mine to turn SS stud
>earrings. Make sure you get the WW spindle, and a few WW collets for the
>wire gauges you are turning (Or get the jacobs chuck and adaptor  and be 
>happy with that) since your budget is high. 

>
Where do I find spec's for the Taig, and a supplier?



From jegan@theriver.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John & Theresa Egan <jegan@theriver.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 22:43:39 -0700
Organization: The River Internet Access Co.
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> >Chester,
> >
> >A good hydrometer with numeric graduations can measure the specific
> >gravity of your dilute acid and its % concentration can then be
> >calculated by comparing the specific gravity of pure water (specific
> >gravity = 1.000) and concentrated (100%) sulfuric acid (specific gravity
> >= 2.52 ...I think).
> >
> >specific gravity of 10% acid = 90% of 1.000 + 10% of 2.52 = 1.15
> >
> 
> Just checked the CRC... the specific gravity of a 10% (weight) solution of
> sulfuric acid in water is 1.068.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,

Thank you, I stand corrected. I screwed up the GMW for H2SO4.

John




From steve_smith@cc.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: machine coolant
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john wrote:

> One small reason it might not work is that coolant is also a lubricant, which
> anti freez is not. It's also hard not to get coolant all over your hands and
> occasionally in your face and on your clothes. Anti-freeze is toxic, where
> most synthetic coolants are not. If your going to leave the coolant in the
> mill base for long periods of time, my advice would be to go with a synthetic
> as it won't rot like soluble oil. I use Swisslube blaser 2000 or Wynns 941.
> They're good down to -90f, I hope your shop doesn't get colder than that.
> The only drawback is that it's pricey. A five gallon pale is about $90, which
> will make 100 gallons of coolant. This might be a life time supply for some
> people but it's well worth the investment.
John,

MSC and Grainger don't seem to carry the stuff you recommend. Can you
give us a source for it?

You also imply that the stuff dilutes: "A five gallon pale is about $90,
which will make 100 gallons of coolant". Does it dilute with water? How
much can you dilute it and still retain the non-freezing properties?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de Fri Sep 27 16:16:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: H.Degronckel@kfa-juelich.de (Honoré de Gronckel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:23:01 GMT
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Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk> wrote:

> writes

>>Just what *is* an EMU,
>>anyway?

>An idiotic Franco-German socialist idea for buggering up the whole of
>the European economy at one swell foop! 

Well, it's close but they prefer to call it an ECU (european currency
unit :-)).
Emu means: electromagnetic unit. It's used to measure e.g.
magnetization and magnetic susceptibility. The problem is that the
same 'unit', viz. emu, is used for physical properties which are
uncomparable. It's a $%&/ unit to deal with. (officially it has been
abandoned, but a lot of people keep using it because they are used to
it, their equiment reads emu's and if they want to convert it they
usually don't know if they used the formula for the right emu!)

Best, Honoré.

P.S.: My provider seems to be two weeks out of phase regarding this
thread, so sorry for the occupied bandwidth if this has already been
answered.






From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyCJE0.95v@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <520088$iem@news-2.csn.net> <01bba9bc$e117cdc0$55263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <529vdl$cj9@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <324A0C28.490D@mail.idt.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:37:11 GMT
Lines: 14

In article <324A0C28.490D@mail.idt.net>, Tony P. <aep19@mail.idt.net> wrote:
>   That, BTW, is the thing I will never understand about inertial 
>navigation systems:  without repeated references to a centering or 
>cross-reference point, don't the tiny errors (such as rounding, but 
>measurement too) add up to gibberish after a few hundred miles?  Our 
>machines are a whole lot smarter than I can grasp.

Not if the errors cluster about the zero point - then they average
into nothing but dither over time.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From dwtaylor@ptdcs2.intel.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dwtaylor@ptdcs2.intel.com (David W. Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 26 Sep 1996 19:56:19 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Lines: 25
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In article <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>,
James Wilkins <jesw@mitre.org> wrote:
>In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> wrote:
 
>> I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
>> surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
>> surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
>> commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
>> magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
>> cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
>> this?
 
>They have so much titanium that they make sub hulls out of it. Maybe the
>advantage is in ease of handling, like aluminum pipe wrenches.

Wouldn't you WANT to use a titanium crowbar if you were moving 
large ti pieces ??? Possible problems if some kind of welding 
were needed come to mind,,,,interesting toy though...



--

David Taylor  dwtaylor@ptdcs2.intel.com  Ph(503) 613-8132 Portland OR.
My opinions are mine ,, and nobody elses.


From bdkrohn@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Byron D. Krohn" <bdkrohn@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: help fing "buffing" wheel(spindle) for bench grinders ?
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 20:11:58 -0500
Organization: Byron Krohn Gunsmith
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To: Andrew Yabsley <asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:35609 sci.engr.metallurgy:8813

Andrew Yabsley wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>    I have a buffing whell with a 1/2 or 5/8 arbour (cant remember) thatI
> picked up years ago.  Its about 3" wide & about 3" diameter.  I would say
> it was cloth but its more like a plastic "cloth-like" substance.  A bit
> like the 3M abrasive pads but alot thicker & harder.  Also I believe that
> it is woven around the end of the arbour.  It is great for putting a matte
> finish on metals, and removes metal quickly.  Does anyone think this
> sounds familiar or can anyone recommend a place that might know about this
> ???
> 
> Thx alot-
> 
> Andrew YAbsley
> asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca


If I were you I would call Brownell's in Montezuma, IA (515) 623-5401.

Ask to talk to a technical expert on bluing, or surface preparation, and
get the best dope available. They sell wheels, motors, and a host of
different buffing coumpounds. 

They are honest, reliable, and the absolute top of the suppliers to the
gun community.


Good luck,



Byron, in Austin, TX


From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metric vs. inches
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
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My previous post contained an error, pointed out in private e-mail by
an australian gentleman. *

Irrational numbers are those that can't be expressed as a fraction of
whole numbers. (literaly "not a ratio") pi is irrational, 1/3 is not,
even though 1/3 can't be expressed _exactly_  in decimal form without
infinite digits.....Neither I nor the corrispondant know the correct
word for that.

Tony posted:

>   That, BTW, is the thing I will never understand about inertial 
>navigation systems:  without repeated references to a centering or 
>cross-reference point, don't the tiny errors (such as rounding, but 
>measurement too) add up to gibberish after a few hundred miles? 

Yup, but the drift in modern laser gyros has been reduced to the point
where INU's are quite usable for several hours at jet speeds .  They
are also tied into flux gate compasses, and nowadays GPS system .  GPS
gives absolute position as basic output, so positional errors don't I
accumulate.

I admire the way this group stays on topic, which isn't what this
branch of the thread is doing....so if anybody wants to persue the
topic further, please contact me my private e-mail, and appologies to
those who have suffered this far.

*turns out I know his brother in Vienna Austria..net is sure shinking
the world!



From machtool@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: andy popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 21:58:36 -0400
Organization: XL MACHINERY
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To: Bruce Woltz <bwoltz@qualcomm.com>

Bruce Woltz wrote:
> 
> In article <32499B24.1647@ix.netcom.com>,
> Mike Patrick  <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> :andy popky wrote:
> :>
> :> sorry to disagree jens
> :> but i have owned 2 FORD explores in the past 3 years
> :> they are mechanicly perfect not a single problem in 50,000+miles
> :> and i will most likely buy my third one in june (no i don't work for
> :> FORD)
> :>
> :> regards
> :> ap
> :
> :
> :Two in a row makes you one lucky guy.  If you lived in Colorado, I'd
> :have you buy a lottery ticket for me.  I had a Ford Explorer that took
> :four sets of brakes and rotors in less than 30,000 miles.  The Ford
> :dealer told me that Ford had a pad/rotor incompatability problem, and
> :couldn't fix the front brakes with factory parts.  I went all the way
> :up to Ford national, and was told the same thing all the way up.
> :
> :Finally, I sold the Explorer at a significant loss, and bought a 4
> :year old Landcruiser.  No problems since....
> :
> :Regards,
> :
> :Mike
> 
> Isn't the Explorer made by Mazda? Mazda actualy makes a
> 2 door SUV that looks exacty like the explorer.
> 
> Bruce


SORRY BRUCE
BUT FORD MAKES THE EXPLORER
AND MADE THE MAZDA 2 DOOR VERSION (NO LONGER MADE)


REGARDS
AP


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:16:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machining polyurethane
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 23:00:55 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.autos.4x4:60750 rec.crafts.metalworking:35612

Having yet more problems with the rubber shock absorber bushes on my
Range Rover (see other post), I'm considering changing them for
polyurethane. I already have a set of polybushes in the main
suspension components, but I can't find anyone who sells polyurethane
shock absorber bushes.

Any advice for making my own ?  Recommended resins ?  Techniques ?
How do I set about vacuum degassing this stuff as it cures (I have
access to a vacuum pump).  I'll probably need to machine it
afterwards, so any advice on turning it ? I'll need to bore a
reasonably accurate centre bore, and a less critical taper on the
outside surface.

--
Do whales have krillfiles ?


From docsteam@servtech.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Brown <docsteam@servtech.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pickling
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:59:22 -0400
Organization: ServiceTech, Inc.
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I've checked the FAQ's and didn't find any references to 
pickling solutions for silver soldered parts. I'm soldering
some tiny brass and copper parts, which would get lost in
a gallon of solution. I'm not keen on having strong acid
solutions around my machine tools, either. Does anyone know 
of a safer, more environmentally safe pickling solution? A
Canadian friend told me that he's heard of a citrus pickling
solution used up there, but he doesn't have any details.
Can anyone help on this?

Ron Brown
docsteam@servtech.com



From thatjoeguy@nortexinfo.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thatjoeguy@nortexinfo.net (thatjoeguy or Maven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Foredom rotary shaft tool??
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 22:02:46 GMT
Organization: Century Internet	
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Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@eos> wrote:


>My "parts" pile has recently been graced by the carcass of a rotary
>shaft tool made by the Foredom Co.  Unfortunately the hand piece is
>missing from the end of the rotary shaft.  Does anyone know anything
>about this company or this particular product ??  Anyone know of a 
>source for a replacement handpiece ?  

>Thanks

>Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@eos.net

Swest or Rio Grande Jewelry supply houses stock foredom products.
Swest's phone number is 1-800-527-5057 in the central US. Or 423-2706
in the west, and 241-5738 in the east. They'll probably have the parts
you need.
Maven




From wmartin@sdd.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!inn
From: wmartin@sdd.hp.com (William Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: vacuum pumps
Date: 26 Sep 1996 23:14:34 GMT
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Keywords: vacuum pump, low vacuum

All,
	Anyone have info on prices for 10(-1)Torr vacuum pumps? any good
surplus sources for these?

thanks,
Bill Martin



From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engine lathe gib question.
Date: 26 Sep 1996 23:40:37 GMT
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laveryt@mail.myriad.net (Bill Averyt) wrote:
>I recently purchased at auction a 14" South Bend "Nordic" engine lathe.  The cross-slide gib is missing.  The
>manufacturer shipped me a new gib ($530), but it was the wrong size.  They say that was the only one they have for that
>machine.  This is a difficult piece for me to make in my shop.  Is there such a thing as a "generic, cut to fit" gib?  I
>would appreciate any and all comments. 
>
Bill. I made a gib for my 14" lathe from a piece of presision ground stock from Starret, cost 
$25 or so from MSC. Check out "the Machinist Bedside Reader", I forget which munber[hell buy 
them all, they are way less than $530] in there Guy has an artical on making gibs. Ccheers Bob



From no-one@anonymous.org Fri Sep 27 16:16:55 EDT 1996
Article: 35617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: no-one@anonymous.org (Mr Information)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 AT Collets
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 02:50:10 GMT
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Is this Logan Lathe Week?  I just bought one two days ago, and my
questions are being answered before I even ask them.

Bob

Joseph Baccellieri <jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>Hello to all,

>I am the happy owner of a 9"X18" Logan Lathe I am extremely pleased with
>the condition and quality of this machine.  I am especially happy that
>Scott Logan is available for parts and support.  My question is how
>expensive are 3 AT collets and are they available?  What is the largest
>capacity they come in? Can the lathe be modified to accept the more
>common 5C collets?

>Thanks for the help.

>	Joe.


Bob

Americans aren't more violent than other people, just better shots.



From frank@dsea.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machining polyurethane
Date: 26 Sep 1996 23:42:16 GMT
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My Energy Suspension catalog shows dozens of polyurethane shock
eyes for sale, plus a thousand or so other bushings.

I've heard that if you pack urethane in crushed dry ice for
a while, you can take it out and pretend that it is steel.
Machine as you like it.




From barronr@mail.erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: benchtop lathe for nonferrous metals . . reccomendations?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 00:14:14 GMT
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creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) wrote:
>
>>Get a Taig: inexpensive, adaptable and DELETED
>>
>Where do I find spec's for the Taig, and a supplier?
>

Try Taig Tools, 12419 E. Ningtingale
Lane, Chandelr, AZ 85249

Phone: 602-895-6978


Reg Barron



From arthurd784@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:16:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: arthurd784@aol.com (ArthurD784)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Photos - stu91a.jpg (0/1)
Date: 26 Sep 1996 21:11:18 -0400
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Joe I downloaded both jpg files on your engine from AOL. They downloaded
with no problems from rec.crafts.metalworking. I think might be a first.
Art. San Diego


From dougvg@sedona.net Fri Sep 27 16:16:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Bananas! Gifts" <dougvg@sedona.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Crygenic Treatment Questions
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 17:32:41 -0700
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Does anyone have experience with cryogenic treatment of various metals?
I'd like to know how this treatment affects mild steel abrasive masks,
carbide abrasive nozzles, etc. - is it worth it?
-- 
***************************************
Doug Von Gausig
Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
lookma@sedona.net
http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
***************************************


From pdrumm@dwave.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Saw
Date: 27 Sep 1996 00:35:42 GMT
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In message <3249FCD6.28C2@www.ptw.com> - Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:47:34
-0700"Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com> writes:
:->What is the difference between the coolent you are using and soluable 
:->oil?  I used soluable oil once and had two impressions - first, and the 
:->only positive thing, it is great while you are cuttintg.  On the down 
:->side it gets rancid, grows alge, stained my mill table black in places, 
:->and is a real problem to legaly dispose of when it goes bad.
:->
:->I've been using dark cutting oil ever since but would really like to find 
:->something better with out all the bad features of soluable oil.
:->
:->Fitch

Maybe it's the brand of soluble oil you use. I haven't had any of the
above problems with Rust-Lick WS-11. A 'batch' of 5 gal.(that's what
the homemade coolant system holds) lasts about a year in our bandsaw,
by that time it's pretty well evaporated so I just mix up some new.
After 5 years, there's a little 'build-up' on the table, but not
black, more of a protective coating :)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: marathon electric
Date: 27 Sep 1996 00:35:59 GMT
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References: <32497CDE.31B8@server.silo.lib.ia.us><32497CDE.31B8@server.silo.lib.ia.us> <52ch57$526@news1.sunbelt.net>
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In message <52ch57$526@news1.sunbelt.net> - RPIERCE@augusta.netThu, 26
Sep 1996 03:02:41 GMT writes:
:->
:->Dave Schrader <schrader@server.silo.lib.ia.us> wrote:
:->
:->>I have a motor manufactured by Marathon Electric that I need to make
:->>run the other way.  It doesn't have any diagram on it.  Does anyone
:->>happen to have the address for Marathon Electric Mfg, Wisconsin within
:->>reach ?
:->>                                Dave Schrader
:->
<snip>
:->If there are no numbers on the wires, check to see if the wires are
:->different colors. The color codes for the wires are as follows:
:->1-Blue
:->2-White
:->3-Orange
:->4-Yellow	
:->5- Black........swap this one with the Red wire
:->6-N/A
:->7-N/A
:->8-Red............swap this one with the Black wire
:->The 2 brown wires may/may not be the thermal overload switch.
:->
:->If the motor is a 3phase motor, shaft dirrection can be changed by
:->swapping T-1 with T-2 or T-3, doesn't really matter.

My dad worked at ME for 30+ years, all their motors are reversable.
Just like Ray says, switch the red & black wires in a single phase
motor, or any 2 line wires for 3-phase.

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Canadian Built Standard Modern Lathes
Date: 27 Sep 1996 01:29:56 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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To: johnd@islandnet.com

Their address is:  Kestrel Machine Tools Inc., 7000 Davand Drive, 
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 1J5

Phone: 905-795-8268   Fax: 905-795-8371

Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools is a dealer for Standard Modern.

Phone 800-872-6500  



Hope that helps.

Regards,

Chuck Kuhn




From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline - who sells it at discount?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 00:50:52 GMT
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I've heard that some dealers offer a discount on Sherline lathes if
you hear about them on the net.

So, who and where?   I'm ready to buy.

Jim Waggener



From jrl@versaform.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrl@versaform.com (Joe Landau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: help fing "buffing" wheel(spindle) for bench grinders ?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 04:28:15 GMT
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Non-woven abrasives.  In 1" width, I've seen these in the standard catalogs 
(MSC, Enco (verified), etc.) . I don't remember seeing 3". I like 'em.

In article <asharpen-2609961657070001@news.nstn.ca>, asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca 
(Andrew Yabsley) wrote:
>   
>
>   I have a buffing whell with a 1/2 or 5/8 arbour (cant remember) thatI
>picked up years ago.  Its about 3" wide & about 3" diameter.  I would say
>it was cloth but its more like a plastic "cloth-like" substance.  A bit
>like the 3M abrasive pads but alot thicker & harder.  Also I believe that
>it is woven around the end of the arbour.  It is great for putting a matte
>finish on metals, and removes metal quickly.  Does anyone think this
>sounds familiar or can anyone recommend a place that might know about this
>???
>
>Thx alot-
>
>
>Andrew YAbsley
>asharpen@fox.nstn.ns.ca

--
Joseph R. Landau                                 jrl@versaform.com
Applied Software Technology                          (408)370-2662
591 W. Hamilton Ave., #201
Campbell, CA 95008  USA                             Even Jove Nods


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: most durable paint? THE MOST DURABLE PAINT OF ALL IS H20-CURE URETHANE
Date: 27 Sep 1996 05:01:44 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
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Message-ID: <52fn3o$q62@news1.svc>
References: <Pine.A32.3.91.960913124905.26917I-100000@jeflin.tju.edu> <51d6it$co2@news-e2c.gnn.com> <Pine.GSO.3.95.960916085854.8930D-100000@clarion.korrnet.org> <korenma1-2009960739430001@ppp7.ppp.tju.edu> <3242C80E.6D0F@onramp.net> <524ajn$oio@bmerhc5e.bnr.ca> <324A18DC.3EDB@mail.idt.net>
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The other problem with this paint is that nothing sticks very well to it.

Sooooo, if you paint rust-prone areas of your car with this stuff and then try
to top it with, say, etching primer, the primer wrinkles.  Sanding it is almost
impossible.

They may say UV sensitive but I still have spots of it on my driveway after 5+ years.

It would make a great model finish if you like clear, black or silver.

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus

BTW, I've had some luck with 3M's Paint buster in getting this stuff off my hands.





From brooksp@corp.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:07 EDT 1996
Article: 35628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 19:01:36 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Janos ERO (EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH) wrote:
: Peter Brooks wrote:

: > I got used to having two sets of wrenches
: > years ago when I had a British car and a Japanese bike, neither of which ran terribly
: > well.....

: Sorry, Pete, but the bikes aren't fully metric in the continental Europe either.

Oops, I *should* have said "motorcycle".  The Honda From Hell generally used
metric bits, exept when the exhaust header studs stripped out (regularly)
and I ended up replacing them with 1/4 x 20 all-thread.  Actually, the
coarse thread seemed to work fairly well in the fairly soft aluminum
head casting.

To make matters more confusing, I now own a recumbent trike.  That mixes
all manner of fasteners between the metrics mused mostly by Shimano and
the Ansi used by the maker.  My own contributions generally have been
Ansi, such as the headlight housings and such.

Pete Brooks



From jstek@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:08 EDT 1996
Article: 35629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jstek@aol.com (JStek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline - who sells it at discount?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 01:29:28 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <52f86u$8km@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) writes:

>Subject:	Sherline - who sells it at discount?
>From:	creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
>Date:Fri, 27 Sep 1996 00:50:52 GMT
>
>I've heard that some dealers offer a discount on Sherline lathes if
>you hear about them on the net.
>
>So, who and where?   I'm ready to buy.
>
>Jim Waggener
>>>>

     Micro-Mark seems to have consistently good prices on Sherline
machinery and goodies.  They appear to ship direct from the Sherline
factory, so you get the latest versions.  I usually shop their sales for
those accessories I couldn't afford on the first pass.  
              Jon
         


From Bob Haskell Fri Sep 27 16:17:09 EDT 1996
Article: 35630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!drn
From: Bob Haskell
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: For 9" SB lathe and Van Norman 1/2 mill
Date: 26 Sep 1996 14:36:59 -0700
Organization: Allison Engine Co
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <52et1r$o2m@lex.zippo.com>
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In article <324AB3F5.49F8@cc.com>, "Steven says...
>
>Bob, Haskell wrote:
>
>> For a Van Norman # 1/2 Mill
>> 
>>         - drawbar - the threads in mine are pretty shot
>>         - end mill holders
>>         - documentation - operator/repair manuals, lubrication charts, etc.
>> 
>> I've checked with Sobel (no luck with the lathe items and he's checking on the
>> mill pieces) and have also sent a message to Dave at meridian machinery.  I'll
>> be also getting a hold of Metal Lathe Associates.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Bob Haskell
>
>Dear Bob,
>
>I'm not being successful in emailing you; could you send me your email
>address. Thanks,  
>
>
>-- 
>Steven O. Smith
>steve@cc.com

Steve,

My email address is
	ierh2@agt.gmeds.com

The Van Norman mill I have is a # 1/2 not 12.
Thanks
Bob Haskell


From lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu Fri Sep 27 16:17:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu (lbliao)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where to get a screw driver for star of david screws?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 00:43:23 GMT
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In many OEM devices, they use bolts or screws that have a depressin similar
to phillips screws, but instead of 4, it has 6 corners. I would say that it
looks similar to the star of david. Since these are very tight usually, it
is not possible to open them by hex keys. It is possible to open using the
regular screw driver, but either the bolt usually gets damaged or the screw
head. I would appreciate if some one can tell the proper name of the screw
and the tool and where to get one.

thanks a lot
lblaio



From vkruger@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:10 EDT 1996
Article: 35632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vkruger@aol.com (VKruger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: 26 Sep 1996 22:19:29 -0400
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No, the Mazda Navajo is in fact a rebadged Ford Exploder (an interesting
reverse of the "badge engineering" embodied in the Ford Courier/Mazda
B2000 pickups!)


From kuhncw@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:11 EDT 1996
Article: 35633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kuhncw <kuhncw@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Keller Die Filer by Mach Tool Co.
Date: 27 Sep 1996 01:23:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Check the 1996 MSC catalog, page 226 for machine (die filer) files.


Regards,

Chuck Kuhn



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 27 16:17:12 EDT 1996
Article: 35634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 02:28:02 GMT
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The moving finger of wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster) having written:

>What about 3-in-1 oil?  What is this stuff, 

Terrible stuff.  It's vegetable based, not mineral, so it tends to
oxidise and go sticky if exposed to the air.


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:13 EDT 1996
Article: 35635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Microsoft "Internet Explorer" problem with THIS n
Date: 27 Sep 1996 04:57:29 GMT
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Microsoft Explorer has a number of serious bugs at this time.  I'd go back to Netscape 
for a while if I were you.  

Best regards,

Mike Rehmus



From janders@oro.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:14 EDT 1996
Article: 35636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: janders@oro.net (Jon Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP! Need parts source for LEVIN watchmakers lathe
Date: 27 Sep 1996 04:36:01 GMT
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Barry,

Louis Levin & Son, Inc.
13550 Larwin Circle
Santa Fe Springs, CA  90670
714.521.9191
714.521.0206 fax
http://www.lainet.com/levin

You can also email Dave Eiman at david@psnw.com  to inquire about
used Levin stuff. He also sells Derbyshire collets that are substantially
less expensive than Levin's. I bought a Levin turret lathe from him a few
months ago.As for Levin's prices, be sure you are sitting down.
However, it sure is nice looking stuff!

I've got a couple extra 3/16 D collets. Do you use D collets, or WW. 
If you use D, do you have any duplicates you'd be interested in swapping?

Jon Anderson
Prototype & Design
Grass Valley, CA		

"Did you ever expect a corporation to have a concience, 
 when  it has no soul to be damned, and no body to be kicked"?
-Edward, First Baron Thurlow   1731-1806-



From laibechc@sp.zrz.TU-Berlin.DE Fri Sep 27 16:17:15 EDT 1996
Article: 35637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: laibechc@sp.zrz.TU-Berlin.DE (Sebastian Laiblin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: nickel coins ?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 00:43:37 GMT
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i want to forge some damascus steel, therefor i need some nickel.
if i buy some in the shop a piece of 22g (!) cost approx $150
i think i better use gold instead of nickel ;-)

now i heard that much many coins are made of nickel.
do you know coins made of it ?
how pure is teh nickel ?

haerd taht canadian quaters and dutch coins are mde of nickel ...

und tschuess !!! -=> SEBASTIAN <=- 

--
******************************************************************
*                laibechc@sp.zrz.tu-berlin.de                    *
*                     Sebastian Laiblin                          *
*                                                                *
*       artificial intelligence <==> natural stupidity ???       *
******************************************************************


From krieder@buffnet.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:16 EDT 1996
Article: 35638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: krieder@buffnet.net (Kurt Rieder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pickling
Date: 27 Sep 1996 03:09:05 GMT
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Ron Brown (docsteam@servtech.com) wrote:
: I've checked the FAQ's and didn't find any references to 
: pickling solutions for silver soldered parts. I'm soldering
: some tiny brass and copper parts, which would get lost in
: a gallon of solution. I'm not keen on having strong acid
: solutions around my machine tools, either. Does anyone know 
: of a safer, more environmentally safe pickling solution? A
: Canadian friend told me that he's heard of a citrus pickling
: solution used up there, but he doesn't have any details.
: Can anyone help on this?

Years ago, the US Army studied the weakening if brass cartridge 
cases due to zinc depletion during pickeling (used for cleaning
practice range ammo cases) and concluded that only citric acid 
solution would hencforth be allowed for pickling.  About a Tbls.
citric acid crystals in a pint of water works very well on 70/30 
brass. 


From mrehmus@shell.portal.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:17 EDT 1996
Article: 35639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@shell.portal.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO airtool quality (and in general)
Date: 27 Sep 1996 04:55:58 GMT
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Yea, I know.  I'll never buy another set of Snap-On allen wrenches again.

Blue Point indeed!

Best,

Mike



From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:18 EDT 1996
Article: 35640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: HELP! Need parts source for LEVIN watchmakers lathe
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyDH51.Bvz@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 03:46:12 GMT
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In article <52echt$qqs@freenet-news.carleton.ca>,
Barry Brown <cc708@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:
>In particular looking for a compound rest and other attachments. What happened
>to this company. My last address for them is Culver City Cal. Anyone,
>please help. Thanks.

They're on the web - levin.com or the like.  Hope you like fine
machinery and are not too attached to your money.


-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From RFahey2781@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:19 EDT 1996
Article: 35641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: RFahey2781@gnn.com (Robert Fahey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk cars
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 23:15:34
Organization: GNN
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Re: Mazdas and Ford Explorers

Believe Ford makes the Mazda version for them here in the 
US. It is a "rebadged" Explorer not a "rebadged" Ford. 




From mahtani@mozart.inet.co.th Fri Sep 27 16:17:20 EDT 1996
Article: 35642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mahtani@mozart.inet.co.th (Varsha Mahtani)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Properties of Silver
Date: 27 Sep 1996 04:29:39 GMT
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Hello!

Could anyone help us with the reaction that silver / sterling silver 
would have with water/tobacco? 

Tkx!

Dino


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:21 EDT 1996
Article: 35643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Crygenic Treatment Questions
Date: 27 Sep 1996 06:21:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <324B20A9.36A0@sedona.net> "Bananas! Gifts" <dougvg@sedona.net>
writes: 
>
>Does anyone have experience with cryogenic treatment of various
metals?
>I'd like to know how this treatment affects mild steel abrasive masks,
>carbide abrasive nozzles, etc. - is it worth it?
>-- 
>***************************************
>Doug Von Gausig
>Look Ma! Custom Etching Services
>lookma@sedona.net
>http://www.tucson.com/clarkdale/lookma
>***************************************

We cryo treat all of our engine components ( oops! trade secret there!)
The process is amazing in terms of wear and strength ( reduction and
increase respectively). Some materials do NOT respond well to Cryo
Treatment. However, we have seen 300- 400% increase in tool life after
cryo treating. And virtually NO wear in racing engines after a full
season of running.

If you want to get further information on the process, you can contact
me via email or phone at 1-516-796-9179. If you get the machine, leave
a message ( I return ALL phone calls ) Or Email me at 

300below@frontiernet.net

You can also access the Cryo web page at http://hre.com/300below

And the best part is it is very affordable.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:22 EDT 1996
Article: 35644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metric system in the USA?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 19:43:41 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <529dld$6t8@ratty.wolfe.net>
References: <51kl12$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32321156.6857@erlangen.netsurf.de> <Pine.LNX.3.91.960909081049.28471A-100000@home.i <DxvLtz.MEA@freenet.victoria.bc.ca><51mhb7$ack@buffnet2.buffnet.net> <220@lathyrus.win-uk.net> <51v8lv$8i3@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.960924140954.1834B-100000@reliant>
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: gonzo.wolfenet.com

In <Pine.SOL.3.91.960924140954.1834B-100000@reliant> "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> writes:

>Well, no, not really.  Early on, french wine was shipped to england in
>large barrels called "tuns."  One of these "tuns" occupied about 100 
>cubic feet.  Ships were "measured" by the Admiralty according to how
>many of these "tuns" they could hold.  Later on, they used the cubic
>foot equivalent and counted some of the odd corners they couldn't get
>a barrel into.  Ship "tonnage" was always a measurement of volume,
>not of weight, and while it may correspond roughly with displaced water,
>it had more to do originally with the hold capacity than with the size
>of the ship.

It often has very little to do with the real weight or volume of
the ship.  The rules for determining what is cargo space and what
isn't are complex, and since licensing fees are based on rated
tonnage, many commercial vessels have otherwise useless
partitions added to turn "cargo" space into voids that don't
count towards cargo capacity.  For a freighter, a few little
partitions here and there won't make much difference, but for a
passenger vessel or yacht the difference between actual
displacement and rated tonnage can be huge.

(This got a bit of newspaper coverage here a few years ago when
the state government was buying new passenger ferries.)

--

 Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   


From mgeinc@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:24 EDT 1996
Article: 35645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: mgeinc@aol.com (MGE INC)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill...
Date: 27 Sep 1996 03:10:59 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 10
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <52fum3$2bn@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

In message <52cr7h$r83@newsbf02.news.aol.com>  jhko@aol.com (Jhko) wrote:

>Well, after reading Marsh Collin's article in 'Projects in Metal'
Magazine
>about fixing up his new cheap Drill-Mill,

Where can I get hold of PIM Mag for this article?

-mike
mgeinc@aol.com


From beesbuzz@erols.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:25 EDT 1996
Article: 35646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beesbuzz@erols.com (T&A)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Best beginner book on blacksmithing?
Date: 24 Sep 1996 22:53:23 GMT
Organization: Your Organization
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Hi--

I just saw a demo of blacksmithing at my local historical museum and think, 
"my that's neat!"  Maybe I can build a combo BBQ/furnace for the backyard!?  
Anyways, I need a decent intro book.  Anyone have suggestions?



From jperdman@jperdman.sdi.agate.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:26 EDT 1996
Article: 35647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jperdman@jperdman.sdi.agate.net (John Erdman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB Strip razor
Date: 25 Sep 1996 14:59:15 GMT
Organization: Greenfield Machine Works
Lines: 18
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NNTP-Posting-Host: jperdman.sdi.agate.net

I'm building some scientific equipment for a professor at the local University. 

   I have seen, but do not know where to buy razor blade-like material
that comes in long strips. The size I am looking for is approximately 0.5"
wide  x .010" thick, made from stainless steel sharpened along one edge.
Though I only need a 48 inches or so I am willing to buy a whole roll if I
can find it. Any leads as to where to find something like this. My Thomas
register hasn't been much help.

Thanks,
John Erdman
Greenfield Machine Works
Puckerbrush, Maine

-- 
John Erdman
Greenfield Machine Works
"Out in the Puckerbrush"


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:27 EDT 1996
Article: 35648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver Solder  with cadmium
Date: 27 Sep 1996 07:54:34 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <stagesmith-2709960100410001@cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>, paul@pcb.co.za (Paul Boulle) wrote:

> I picked up some silver solder rods cheaply from a second has shop. The rods 
> are marked as L_Ag30Cd (DIN 8513). Can anyone tell me what there intended use 
> is and why they contain cadmium?

I'm not sure what that alloy is for.
The only Cadmium silver-solder I've ever used was some wonderful stuff
>from  Indian Jewelry supply. 
It was kind of yellow and was designed to blend into brass and bronze.
Toxic as all hell, but beautiful solder.

Best of luck

-- 
*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:28 EDT 1996
Article: 35649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp.earthlink.net!cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net!user
From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: nickel coins ?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 07:49:38 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <stagesmith-2709960055450001@cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <52f7vp$955@brachio.zrz.TU-Berlin.DE>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <52f7vp$955@brachio.zrz.TU-Berlin.DE>,
laibechc@sp.zrz.TU-Berlin.DE (Sebastian Laiblin) wrote:

> i want to forge some damascus steel, therefor i need some nickel.
> if i buy some in the shop a piece of 22g (!) cost approx $150
> i think i better use gold instead of nickel ;-)
> 
> now i heard that much many coins are made of nickel.
> do you know coins made of it ?
> how pure is teh nickel ?
> 
> haerd taht canadian quaters and dutch coins are mde of nickel ...
> 
> und tschuess !!! -=> SEBASTIAN <=- 


All American and Canadian coins are made of a Nickle / Copper alloy called
"Nickle-plate".
It is made by Bridgeport brass works in Indianapolis for the US Mint. I
have a few small sheets of it that were sold for scrap. It is very
difficult to work, but durable.
I doubt that anyone makes coins of pure Nickle.
The reason that pure Nickle is so expensive is because pure Nickle is so
hard to work.
It is very tough and work hardens like crazy, also when it is annealed the
oxide layer that forms on the heated metal is quite tenacious, and hard to
remove. 

Best of luck

-- 
*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:29 EDT 1996
Article: 35650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!nntp.earthlink.net!cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net!user
From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get a screw driver for star of david screws?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 07:42:22 GMT
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <stagesmith-2709960048290001@cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <52f7vb$1rk@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust32.max30.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <52f7vb$1rk@gap.cco.caltech.edu>, lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu
(lbliao) wrote:

> In many OEM devices, they use bolts or screws that have a depressin similar
> to phillips screws, but instead of 4, it has 6 corners. I would say that it
> looks similar to the star of david. Since these are very tight usually, it
> is not possible to open them by hex keys. It is possible to open using the
> regular screw driver, but either the bolt usually gets damaged or the screw
> head. I would appreciate if some one can tell the proper name of the screw
> and the tool and where to get one.
> 
> thanks a lot
> lblaio

I'm not sure how old the equipment is that you are working on is, but
there are only 2 possibilities.
If the interior of the six sided hole has relativly sharp corners and the
equipment is about 20 years old or older, then you have "Bristol Spline"
fasteners.
If the edges are kind of rounded over, and the equipment is fairly recent,
then you have "Torx" fasteners.
Bristol Spline drivers are difficult to find, but Torx drivers are quite
common at any tool store.

Best of luck

-- 
*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:30 EDT 1996
Article: 35651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news1.best.com!noos.hooked.net!news.scruz.net!usenet
From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Saw
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:01:25 -0700
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 62
Message-ID: <324A0E25.9B1@scruznet.com>
References: <513ata$egr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <522h1c$aaq@ecuador.earthlink.net> <32456641.62F3@scruznet.com> <3249FCD6.28C2@www.ptw.com>
Reply-To: lmarshal@scruznet.com
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To: "Fitch R. Williams" <frwillia@www.ptw.com>

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> Lee Marshall wrote:
> >
> > itsme wrote:
> > >
> > > tristerk@aol.com (Trister K) wrote:
> > >
> > > >What kind of saw would I want for cutting small lengths (6-16 inches) of
> > > >stainless steel (440c and ATS-35) up to a quater inch thick? What kind of
> > > >blades?
> > >
> >
> > For doing a fair amount of cutting of this type of material, I would use
> > a "wet" cutting horizontal band saw, with hydraulic down feed. The
> > imports are ranging about 7-800 dollars. A vari-tooth 5-8 bi-metal blade
> > (I use Lennox) would give pretty good life. Stainless is fairly hard to
> > cut and dry cutting will typically kill the blade long before it's time.
> > I use a lubricant sold by my Lennox distributor call "Blazol 2000" which
> > is cut 5 to 1 with water. It doesn't get rank in odor and in fact I also
> > use it as my tapping fluid and mist coolant on the mills & lathes
> > (cutting it further).
> > Lee
What is the difference between the coolent you are using and soluable
> oil?  I used soluable oil once and had two impressions - first, and the
> only positive thing, it is great while you are cuttintg.  On the down
> side it gets rancid, grows alge, stained my mill table black in places,
> and is a real problem to legaly dispose of when it goes bad.
> 
> I've been using dark cutting oil ever since but would really like to find
> something better with out all the bad features of soluable oil.
> 
> Fitch

The stuff I use, Blazol 2000 is a vegatable oil of some sort, doesn't
get rancid, and has been an excellent product for me. I buy it in 5
gallon pails, cut it 5 to 1 with water, and the evaporation takes care
of the disposal. Some is carried out on the parts, some in the swarf,
and I haven't had any problem with disposal (and I really try hard to
cope with this problem, and am aware). It is available from the Lennox
blade distributor in my area. I don't know if it is in your area. Try
it, I'm positive that you will be pleased with it. (usual disclaimer)
Lee

-- 
  _
    __--´o`--_
__-'           `_
||               |___,         O   O    N
||______    _____|___|      D
| |_____|__|            Y
| |     |  | B  O  N N
| |_____|  |
|_|_____|_ | E N G I N
||_____ o \|            E
| |=  =\   \_________,      E
| |=  = \   o_____|__|         R  I  N  G
|_|=__=__\__/
|__________|


                   "MAKING A GOOD IMPRESSION"


From jperdman@jperdman.sdi.agate.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:31 EDT 1996
Article: 35652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!neptune.gan.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!service-2.agate.net!jperdman.sdi.agate.net!user
From: jperdman@jperdman.sdi.agate.net (John Erdman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: temperatures - how to?
Date: 25 Sep 1996 15:25:39 GMT
Organization: Greenfield Machine Works
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <jperdman-2509961128260001@jperdman.sdi.agate.net>
References: <523ffi$8mg@lex.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jperdman.sdi.agate.net

Hi Eduardo -

I assume from the temperature you are considering that you are wanting to
temper a piece that has been hardened.

For all practical purposes when you are tempering your piece, it doesn't
make any difference how long you hold it at 900 degF as long as you hold
it there long enough to get to "equilibrium".  

In my oven, it takes about 15 minutes for the temperature to come back to
the set point temperature after I've opened the door (I have digital
readouts). So assuming that yours has similar reheat characteristics I
suggest you preheat your oven to the desired temerature as indicated on
the indicator and then stick your piece in for a half hour or so.

If your actual hardness is even semi-important you should at least test
with some hardness files.

Regards and good luck,

John Erdman

In article <523ffi$8mg@lex.zippo.com>, ehaddadf@iis.com.br wrote:

> Hi!
> I've been reading, both in books and here, about heat treating, hardening,
> annealing metals.
> I have a Neycraft furnace with just the temperature indicator - no manual
> controls.
> My question: how do I go about doing something like this:
> Heat to 900def F, hold for 10 minutes, remove and quench.
> How do I know that the part has reached 900deg F? I only have an indication
> for the furnace's temperature - not the actual part.
> How long should I hold the furnace's temperature for the part to get an even
> temperature?
> As I don't know if things are working, I can't even do some  testing.
> Can you help me?  Many Thanks eduardo haddad filho ehaddadf@iis.com.br

-- 
John Erdman
Greenfield Machine Works
"Out in the Puckerbrush"


From pdrumm@dwave.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:32 EDT 1996
Article: 35653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!winternet.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: 27 Sep 1996 10:47:38 GMT
Organization: StarNet Communications, Inc
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <52gbca$hgs@blackice.winternet.com>
References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org><323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <52en53$jdi@ptdcs5.ra.intel.com>
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In message <52en53$jdi@ptdcs5.ra.intel.com> -
dwtaylor@ptdcs2.intel.com (David W. Taylor)26 Sep 1996 19:56:19 GMT
writes:
:->
:->In article <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>,
:->James Wilkins <jesw@mitre.org> wrote:
:->>In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> wrote:
:-> 
:->>> I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
:->>> surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. Titanium
:->>> surely has its uses, by why would someone want to make something as
:->>> commonplace as a crowbar out of it? If they were looking for some
:->>> magnetic or chemical property, I'd think it would be easier and much
:->>> cheaper to use a stainless alloy. Does anyone know anything about
:->>> this?
:-> 
:->>They have so much titanium that they make sub hulls out of it. Maybe the
:->>advantage is in ease of handling, like aluminum pipe wrenches.
:->
:->Wouldn't you WANT to use a titanium crowbar if you were moving 
:->large ti pieces ??? Possible problems if some kind of welding 
:->were needed come to mind,,,,interesting toy though...

Maybe they're just surplus from Chernobyl? :)

pdrumm@dwave.net
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are my own, even if they are wrong!



From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:33 EDT 1996
Article: 35654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!news.Stanford.EDU!newshub.internex.net!newshub1.internex.net!masters0.news.internex.net!usenet
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline - who sells it at discount?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:39:04 GMT
Organization: InterNex Information Services 1-800-595-3333
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <324bad30.104528256@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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On 27 Sep 1996 01:29:28 -0400, jstek@aol.com (JStek) wrote:

>     Micro-Mark seems to have consistently good prices on Sherline
>machinery and goodies.  They appear to ship direct from the Sherline
>factory, so you get the latest versions.  I usually shop their sales for
>those accessories I couldn't afford on the first pass.  

Thomas Register has this:
*********
Micro-Mark

Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922-1595 USA
908-464-6764
FAX: 908-665-9383

Precision Miniature Tools.
*********

Is this the company you are refering to? Do these guys have a web
presence?

Garfield




From markw@cup.hp.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:35 EDT 1996
Article: 35655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hpbs2500.boi.hp.com!hpax!markw
From: markw@cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB:  Very large Steel Balls
Date: 26 Sep 1996 20:09:33 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
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Message-ID: <52entt$ai4@hpax.cup.hp.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Wanted:  Large steel balls, 2" or larger diameter and polished.  
These would be ball bearings for a large load application.  Let me 
hear what you have available, and pricing.  Please reply by email.




From greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:36 EDT 1996
Article: 35656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!news1.digital.com!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com!usenet
From: Charlie Greenman <greenman@amt.tay1.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Re-gringding lathe bed
Date: 27 Sep 1996 12:02:41 GMT
Organization: Digital Semiconductor
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <52gfp1$91u@sousa.amt.tay1.dec.com>
References: <01bba645$1ada77e0$623bd8ce@#billsr.ix.netcom.com> <51u68p$1b39@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <jesw-2309961626440001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <Dy7nwF.GB5@bbxrbk.basis.com>
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There should be no problem with the headstock/tailstock (or
bed turret) with a reground (or planed) bed. You're going
to be taking the same amount from both ends :-)

You will have to do two things (I've done this and it's
not hard):

You'll have to reposition the quickchange (assuming you
have one) so the leadscrew is correctly aligned for the
half-nuts and any other feed. The Logan has a spindle in
which the leadscrew rides and there's a key in the spindle
that engages with the slot in the leadscrew. This isn't
hard to do...  Measure the thickness of the bed ways before
grinding and after grinding and that's about how much you'll
have to change. Use shimstock to fit. Again on the Logan,
there's a machined surface on the top and back of the
quickchange and you shim it there. Move the tail end 
leadscrew support until the leadscrew is parallel to the
bed. Then disengage the leadscrew (withdraw both quickchange
handles) and be SURE you can easily rotate the leadscrew
when the self-act is engaged with the apron at all points
on the lathe bed. That's the first thing.

The other thing is you'll have to shim the rack under the
bed so it engages the pinion on the apron correctly. That
should be the same size shim as the quickchange. When it
is correct, you can put a piece of cigarette paper on the
rack, run the pinion over it and it will fold the paper to
the outline of the rack but not tear it.

None of this is rocket science. The hard thing about doing
lathes is getting the bed right (No idea how you do that
yourself) and then scraping the saddle to it. And while 
you're at it, you can scrape everything else! But the
headstock should be fine (and left untouched) and the
tailstock, once it's base is scraped, is aligned with
a shim between the base and top.

/Charlie



From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:37 EDT 1996
Article: 35657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shooting Star Tech. Readout  Update?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 12:21:42 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

Has anyone received their Shooting Star Technology digital readouts yet?  
If so could you comment on the unit?  Thanks?  



From radix@wwnet.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:39 EDT 1996
Article: 35658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!trellis.wwnet.com!news
From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Microsoft "Internet Explorer" problem with THIS newsgroup...
Date: 25 Sep 1996 02:52:56 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (Not a U.S. Government Agency)
Lines: 8
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I don't get it.  I'm using Microsoft's "Internet Explorer" to read the
postings on this news group.  But unlike any other group I read, ALL of the
messages are flagged as "read", even though I haven't!  Any ideas about
what is up?
-- 
(Remember..if it doesn't work,  Microsoft doesn't care.
And Compaq charges $35 to ask "why?".)
W.J.Ward


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:17:40 EDT 1996
Article: 35659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: air hammer as...hammer?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <DyDzuF.LLq@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <3616@news.IPSWITCH.COM>  
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:30:15 GMT
Lines: 25


In a previous article, ddl@harvard.edu (Dan Lanciani) says:

>This may seem like a funny question, but does anybody use an air hammer
>tool as a hammer?  I needed a little help driving a ground rod the other
>day and I thought I'd try my trusty air hammer, but I didn't have a tip
>with a flat head--only chisels and rippers and such.  Checking all my
        ^^^^^^^^^
Mine came with one.  If you have a lathe, make one.  A good steel would 
be 4340.


>favorite tool catalogs confirmed a lack of such tips.  Now, it may well
>be that the little unit I have wouldn't be much use on the ground rod,
>but surely there are smaller driver applications applications where a flat
>tip would be useful.  Or am I missing something?
>
>				Dan Lanciani
>				ddl@harvard.*
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:17:41 EDT 1996
Article: 35660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Soluble oil
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:23:40 GMT
Lines: 11


Quite a few soluble oils have an inhibiter, to prevent bacterial growth.  
Just be sure of what you are buying.   Five to 1 is standard dilution for 
most.  Shop around, as prices vary.  Mine was sold by an automotive 
jobbers, 20 liters, for the same price the industrial suppliers wanted 
for 4 liters.  It wont go bad until you mix it with water, so mix only 
what you need.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Fri Sep 27 16:17:42 EDT 1996
Article: 35661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp.coast.net!news2.acs.oakland.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!latcha
From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get a screw driver for star of david screws?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:31:22 -0400
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960927092644.1592B-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <52f7vb$1rk@gap.cco.caltech.edu>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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In-Reply-To: <52f7vb$1rk@gap.cco.caltech.edu> 

What you are looking at are Torx screws, originally invented by automakers
to keep us from repairing our own cars.  The sizes are listed as T-20,
T-30, etc, with the size increasing as the number goes up.  Most
replaceable-bit screwdriver sets come with at least one Trox bit, with
others available at hardware stores, at least until you get to the tiny
ones.  Compaq computers use T-6 (I think) Torx screws to secure the hard
drives.  Took 3 weeks to find a bit to remove/replace a drive in 5
minutes... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 27 Sep 1996, lbliao wrote:

> 
> In many OEM devices, they use bolts or screws that have a depressin similar
> to phillips screws, but instead of 4, it has 6 corners. I would say that it
> looks similar to the star of david. Since these are very tight usually, it
> is not possible to open them by hex keys. It is possible to open using the
> regular screw driver, but either the bolt usually gets damaged or the screw
> head. I would appreciate if some one can tell the proper name of the screw
> and the tool and where to get one.
> 
> thanks a lot
> lblaio
> 
> 
> 


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:17:43 EDT 1996
Article: 35662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Pickling
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <DyE2JG.4zH@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <3247DB2A.261A@servtech.com>  
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 11:28:28 GMT
Lines: 45


I switched over to pickling vinager, some time ago.  It works just as 
well as sulphuric acid.  You could also use citric acid from your local 
homebrew store.  Citric acid goes bad in about 3 months though.  My 
present pickle bath uses an restaurant ice cream tub with lid ( Free ), 
and the vinegar has been in use for 2 years.  Vinegar does a superior job 
of descaling steel too.



In a previous article, docsteam@servtech.com (Ron Brown) says:

>pk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.servtech.com!post.servtech.com!news
>From: Ron Brown <docsteam@servtech.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Pickling
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:59:22 -0400
>Organization: ServiceTech, Inc.
>Lines: 13
>Message-ID: <3247DB2A.261A@servtech.com>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: doc1.bgm.servtech.com
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)
>
>I've checked the FAQ's and didn't find any references to 
>pickling solutions for silver soldered parts. I'm soldering
>some tiny brass and copper parts, which would get lost in
>a gallon of solution. I'm not keen on having strong acid
>solutions around my machine tools, either. Does anyone know 
>of a safer, more environmentally safe pickling solution? A
>Canadian friend told me that he's heard of a citrus pickling
>solution used up there, but he doesn't have any details.
>Can anyone help on this?
>
>Ron Brown
>docsteam@servtech.com
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:17:44 EDT 1996
Article: 35663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Machine coolant
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 11:05:08 GMT
Lines: 9


You realy have to watch prices on this stuff.  My 20 liter pail cost 
Canadian $60.00.  This is a lifetime supply for a hobby person, well it 
will last a long time!  It should be much cheaper in the US.  Just buy it 
at automotive jobbers.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Fri Sep 27 16:17:45 EDT 1996
Article: 35664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <DyE0Lx.Luu@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <52cr0k$bi1@news1.io.org> <527401$39u@test-sun.erols.com> <5247ft$ouf@nntp.igs.net> <Dy7zKv.44s@freenet.victoria.bc.ca
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:46:45 GMT
Lines: 46


The book I have was published in 1944.  A lot of these were published, 
and often turn up in used book stores.

My own first lathe, was home made, long before I acquired the book.  The 
bed was made from 5/8 key steel, rather than angle.  Key steel is 
annealed medium carbon steel, and is held to close tolerances, though 
not as close as square drill rod.  The cross slide was like the Unimat 
SL, but steel, rather than aluminum.  I made the lead screws from ready 
rod, as the rolled threads are quite accurate.  A double belt reduction 
provided back gear speeds.



In a previous article, joe@io.org (joe) says:

>as.edu!howland.erols.net!EU.net!Norway.EU.net!sn.no!nntp.uio.no!news2.interlog.com!news1.io.org!news
>From: joe@io.org (joe)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
>Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 02:50:42 GMT
>Organization: Internex Online (io.org), Toronto, Ontario, Canada
>Lines: 11
>Message-ID: <52cr0k$bi1@news1.io.org>
>References: <527401$39u@test-sun.erols.com> <5247ft$ouf@nntp.igs.net> <Dy7zKv.44s@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
>Reply-To: joe@io.org
>NNTP-Posting-Host: dyna-240.net7b.io.org
>X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
>
>ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:
>
>
>>Model Engineer Magazine also has plans for homemade lathes.
>>During World War 2, Popular Mechanics Press published a book, called " 
>>Forty Power Tools You Can Make" witha mini lathe in it.
>
>I think the lathe article appeared in the January 1945 issue.
>
>
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Fri Sep 27 16:17:46 EDT 1996
Article: 35665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!munnari.OZ.AU!metro!metro!seagoon.newcastle.edu.au!wabbit.its.uow.edu.au!news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!peter
From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: TIG, need help
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: nugget.prospect.anprod.csiro.au
Message-ID: <DyE4n2.Awn@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>
Sender: news@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU
Organization: CSIRO Division of Animal Production, Prospect NSW
References: <51u7bj$cq4@lal.interserv.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:13:50 GMT
Lines: 72

In article <51u7bj$cq4@lal.interserv.com> rauscher@icst.com writes:

[snip]

>
>My AC welder goes from 40 to 230 amps.

For real delicate work, that may not go low enough for fine TIG work.

>
>I'm not real versed on what I need, but I'm sure someone here can help.
>
>1) What is required to convert my AC welder to DC. Is it just
>a full wave bridge? or is there some inductors/capacitors involved
>also? 

I bought a commercial AC-DC converter made by a welding company. Plugged
it onto my stick welder and it worked. 

>
>2) Would it be worth it to have a DC welder for TIG use?

Depends on if you can get one cheap enough; I'd say no.

>
>3) How important is a high frequency arc stabilizer?

IMHO, very important for steel to avoid electrode contamination from
scratch starts. Essential for aluminium but you need ACHF anyway. I've
done scratch starts on a piece of clean copper next to where I'm going to
weld and this reduces contamination a lot. Still a pain, though.

>
>4) What kind of current am I going to need to do the above
>mentioned welding?

I'd say you're OK with your stick welder. Mine goes to 250A at 60% duty
cycle. Too much heat and you end up needing a water cooled torch. I've
found that my stick welder's amperage control is a bit coarse for TIG
work. YMMV.

 >
>5) I'm leaning toward setting up for 1/16" electrodes and
>adding as required. Would this be a good choice?

That's what I use for my work. Sheet & fine work. Haven't bothered with
anything larger. Was playing with some 5mm plate tonight and I can run a
good bead on that at 100A.

>
>6) In my travels, it seems that 75% Argon/25% CO2 would
>be the best all around gas. Any comments?

I use straight argon. Swap the bottle from MIG to TIG as needed. The CO2
mix is supposed to be better for steel, but I just prefer argon for the
(rare) occasions I want to weld aluminium. Don't want 2 bottles.

>
>7) And last but not least, anything to add?

Buy a TIG unit with HF. Better control and less hassle all round. OK, it
costs (which is why I didn't do it up front). I've just picked one up on
approval - been playing with it tonight, in fact - and if we can come to a
satisfactory agreement, it's *mine, all mine!!* AC, DC+, DC- and HF, 6A to
180A. I always wanted one of these.

Then I'll sell or (preferably) trade the AC-DC unit which has served me well.
(I'm not looking for a buyer here, though; I'm in Australia).

Best of luck.

Peter Wiley


From jim.cook@the-spa.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:47 EDT 1996
Article: 35666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <3249B83A.1D35@the-spa.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 18:54:50 -0400
From: Jim Cook <jim.cook@the-spa.com>
Organization: JACEngineering
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0b6Gold (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
To: "Chester A. Roberts, Jr." <ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
Subject: Re: Help: Sulfuric Acid/Revisited
References: <52417b$110@madeline.INS.CWRU.Edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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NNTP-Posting-Host: news2.the-spa.com
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Chester A. Roberts, Jr. wrote:
> 
> A while back I asked for help on how/where tpurchase sfuric
> acid as recommended by Hiraoka in his silver soldguide-
> lines.  I received a number of replies including: swimming pool
> chemical "Sodium Bisulfate" which is used to lower pool ph.
>    Problem #1:  I bought the chemical, but there is no descript-
> ion of how to achieve a 10% acid solution.  I guessed and used
> 6.4 ounces (volume) with water to make a half gallon.  A theo-
> retical 10% of 64 ounces.  Caused some bubbles but didn't seem
> to do much to the metal.  I suspect this solution may be very
> very weak....
>    Problem #2: I also found an auto supply that sells battery
> acid.  Trouble is they don't list the strength of the acid.  The
> precautions on the box are pretty severe...I suspect that the
> acid may be way over 10% solution.
>    SOOOOOO..... If you actually know how to make a 10% solution
> using swimming pool conditioner (sodium bisulfate) OR how to make
> a 10% solution using battery acid, please let me know.
>    PLEASE no guessing...but if you do know I'd sure appreciate
> your advice!
>    Regards, Chet Roberts
> P.S. We've had heavy rain...phone line connections are pretty
> noisey...please forgive any gibberish....

If you check out the September 1977 issue of Live Steam I think you will
find the answer to your question on page 37. The article is called "Find
the right solution for Acid Strengths" by Donald W. Exner.

In that article the author has graphed the amount of acid that is
combined with a given amount of water to reach a required solution. He
has two curves. The first is for new acid that has a specific gravity of
1.280. The other curve is for old acid with a specific gravity of 1.150.


-- 
Jim Cook   	|email:Home:jim.cook@the-spa.com
Agawam		|      Work:cookjam@hsd.utc.com
		|Home Page: http://www.the-spa.com/jim.cook/


From billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:48 EDT 1996
Article: 35667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!news.mid.net!news.sdsmt.edu!news.wildstar.net!news.ecn.uoknor.edu!news.ysu.edu!odin.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!usenet
From: Bill Funk <billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Safer Paint?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:17:41 -0700
Organization: BFGoodrich Aerospace
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The thread on durable paint motivates me to ask about
 safe (water based) paints.  I read somewhere about 
"Aquabase" as a Ford approved Auto repaint material.
I believe it is from ICI in England. Does anyone know
a US distributor?

Bill Funk
billfun@gw.rmtaero.bfg.com


From henry_bibb@netedge.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:49 EDT 1996
Article: 35668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news.netedge.com!news
From: Henry_Bibb <henry_bibb@netedge.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air hammer as...hammer?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:20:57 -0400
Organization: NetEdge Systems, Inc
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <324BE2C9.69D8BD19@netedge.com>
References: <3616@news.IPSWITCH.COM> <324BEFE7.B@ldl.net>
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I get catalogs from an outfit called Autobody Tool Mart which have these 
heads in there - apparently body repairmen use them to work out dents 
sometimes.  These guys are a lot less expensive than Snap-On for some 
things, but you have to use your head, just as you would with Harbor 
Freight, or something.  Some of the stuff is name brand, and priced 
accordingly, and some of it isn't - also priced accordingly. 

That said, for occasional use, I would think the off-brand one of these
would do nicely.

Henry Bibb
Sorry, I don't have the phone number handy, but 1-800 information should
be able to help.

jack yates wrote:
> 
> ...Yep, got one!...One of my air hammers was purchased with a hammer head
> attached, but I don't know who supplied the head...As air hammers are
> primarily used in automotive service, may I suggest you try the Snap-on
> truck?
> 
> Dan Lanciani wrote:
> >
> > This may seem like a funny question, but does anybody use an air hammer
> > tool as a hammer?  I needed a little help driving a ground rod the other
> > day and I thought I'd try my trusty air hammer, but I didn't have a tip
> > with a flat head--only chisels and rippers and such.  Checking all my
> > favorite tool catalogs confirmed a lack of such tips.  Now, it may well
> > be that the little unit I have wouldn't be much use on the ground rod,
> > but surely there are smaller driver applications applications where a flat
> > tip would be useful.  Or am I missing something?
> >
> >                                 Dan Lanciani
> >                                 ddl@harvard.*


From geotek@accesscomm.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:50 EDT 1996
Article: 35669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bluto.accesscomm.net!usenet
From: geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Titanium Crowbar
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:13:49 GMT
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <52gh77$on6@bluto.accesscomm.net>
References: <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org><323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net> <jesw-1709961853460001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <52en53$jdi@ptdcs5.ra.intel.com> <52gbca$hgs@blackice.winternet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: n1m24.accesscomm.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

>:->>In article <323BCABA.7A4C@flash.net>, Pat Kelley <manaret@flash.net> wrote:
>:-> 
>:->>> I've seen Russian crowbars of solid titanium being sold by various
>:->>> surplus outlets, and it has piqued my curiosity. 

Titanium tools do not cause sparks, and can be used in hazardous
workplaces.

George Carlson   KC5RCC
Geotek Design Services
geotek@accesscomm.net



From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Fri Sep 27 16:17:51 EDT 1996
Article: 35670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-in2.uu.net!munnari.OZ.AU!metro!metro!seagoon.newcastle.edu.au!wabbit.its.uow.edu.au!news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!peter
From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: Wade Benchtop Planer
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: nugget.prospect.anprod.csiro.au
Message-ID: <DyDpCA.MzI@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>
Sender: news@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU
Organization: CSIRO Division of Animal Production, Prospect NSW
References: <521tak$m42@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <5222q4$nvn@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> <Dy5nxB.7ut@bbxrbk.basis.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 06:43:21 GMT
Lines: 21

In article <Dy5nxB.7ut@bbxrbk.basis.com> russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler) writes:
>In article <5222q4$nvn@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>,
>Dave Ficken <mermac@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>> I just picked up a cute benchtop planer Mill made by the Wade tool
>>Co., Waltham , Mass. Is anyone familliar with these machines? 
>
>You're my kind of guy, Dave.  Only a true lover of machinery would
>call any greasy hunk of cast iron "cute".

:-) 

Told one of my friends I'd bought a medium sized shaper. He walked in the
workshop and saw a 20" stroke machine weighing God knows how much. *HE*
thought I'd got one of those little 6-7" stroke jobs that you can fit on
this one's table. "Yeah, but you shoulda seen the one I had to pass up"
was my reply.

I regret passing up a 4 foot metal planer some years ago. Haven't the
faintest idea what I would have done with it, but... 

Peter Wiley


From myzr@ldl.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:52 EDT 1996
Article: 35671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.ldl.net!usenet
From: jack yates <myzr@ldl.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air hammer as...hammer?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:16:55 -0700
Organization: LightSpeed Data Links
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References: <3616@news.IPSWITCH.COM>
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...Yep, got one!...One of my air hammers was purchased with a hammer head 
attached, but I don't know who supplied the head...As air hammers are 
primarily used in automotive service, may I suggest you try the Snap-on 
truck?

Dan Lanciani wrote:
> 
> This may seem like a funny question, but does anybody use an air hammer
> tool as a hammer?  I needed a little help driving a ground rod the other
> day and I thought I'd try my trusty air hammer, but I didn't have a tip
> with a flat head--only chisels and rippers and such.  Checking all my
> favorite tool catalogs confirmed a lack of such tips.  Now, it may well
> be that the little unit I have wouldn't be much use on the ground rod,
> but surely there are smaller driver applications applications where a flat
> tip would be useful.  Or am I missing something?
> 
>                                 Dan Lanciani
>                                 ddl@harvard.*



From gmfoster@epix.net Fri Sep 27 16:17:53 EDT 1996
Article: 35672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!news2.epix.net!news
From: gmfoster@epix.net (Garry Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:53:13 GMT
Organization: epix.net
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <52gisu$iqa@coconut.epix.net>
References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com>
Reply-To: gmfoster@epix.net
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:



>In article <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From skarsaune@aol.com 
>(Skarsaune), the following was written:
>> The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations 
>> posted by 
>> others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
>> legs, and
>> get a good blade. 

>Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
>to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?

>Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
>THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!

>If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
>business long ago.

>After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
>that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
>received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
>would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
>pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.

>If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
>quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
> We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.

><rant mode off>
> 

>--
> ----------------------------------------
> Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> 09/24/96 07:35
> http://www.loganact.com


Are you still making lathes?



From luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca Fri Sep 27 16:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John Stewart <luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Chinese lathes headstock mod for alignment
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:46:17 -0400
Organization: The Communications Research Centre
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Yesterday, I wrote:

> 
> My Emco Compact-8 must be different than yours, as mine already has
> the allignment method that they appear to be talking about; mine is
> alligned by the rear vee, (if my memory is correct), not with set
> screws pushing on clamping screws, or some such.
>

Well, I was wrong. After cleaning up the swarf around the headstock,
I can slide a shim completely along the "alligment Vee" (the front
vee), and see, once the cover is off, that the allignment is indeed
by 4 setscrews working on the hold down bolts.

You live and learn. My first thought was "oh s**t", but then, the
lathe is 20 years old, is more accurate than I am, so the system
must work. It is also better than "Mr. Chatterbox", my 9" Sebastian
lathe from the 1890s, so I guess that I should not complain.

Sorry for the mis-information.

> Thanks;
> 
> John Stewart
> luigi@mars.dgrc.doc.ca


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Sep 27 16:17:54 EDT 1996
Article: 35674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine oil
Message-ID: <1996Sep24.125006.25105@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 24 Sep 96 12:50:05 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <3246F0C3.66@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> writes:
|>Could someone give a quick explanation of which oils are used where?
|>Jonathan has given a good start, differentiating sliding surfaces vs.
|>spindles. What about hand wheels where there is a little oil port to oil
|>the screw? Any significant differences between mills and lathes? What
|>kinds of problems develop using plain old motor oil? 
|>
|>I don't mind buying the right lubricants, but I'm not sure which they
|>are!

The best source of info would be the machine's manual, but in many cases
the manual is gone or gives no clue (e.g. far eastern junk).

The following might help, from the FAQ:

33.   What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?

      This is certainly a frequently asked question!  The first answer is to
      use whatever the manufacturer's manual suggests, presuming you have
      a manual for your machine.

      Feed-screw threads, half nuts, back gears and similar are usually
      lubricated with a heavy oil such as Vactra 2, or grease if protected
      from chips and swarf.  Some suggest a mixture of oil and STP oil
      treatment.

      Beds and "ways" are often treated with special oils, called "way oils".
      ISO 68 (light to medium weight).  Examples:  Exxon Febis K 68, Shell
      Tona T-68, Sun way lub 1180, Mobil Vactra No 2, Texaco Way lube 68,
      Gulf Gulfway 68, Cheveron Vistac 68X.

      Spindle bearings call for "spindle oil" such as Exxon Nutto H32,
      Shell Tellus V32, BP HLP32, Castrol Hyspin AWS32, and Mobil DTE 32
      (in this case the 32 is the ISO VG32 spec, about the same as SAE
      10-weight, and is what Myford recommends for their lathes).  ISO
      grade 22 is also used.

      All three types are available from the better supply outfits,
      such as MSC.  Remember that the money you spend on proper oils will
      be a lot less than the cost of replacing the machine!

      South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
      their 9" and 10" lathes:  CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
      oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 teflon grease.  These are
      available from South Bend.

      A suggestion I've read is to oil lathe ways before using, to clean off
      dust/grunge that may have accumulated since you last used it.  After
      work is finished, wipe off but leave a film for rust prevention.

      Multigrade motor lubricants are not recommended.  They are full of
      all sorts of stuff to make the oil work inside an internal combustion
      engine.  Use a straight 30 or 20 grade oil with no detergent if you
      can't find anything else.  A transmission oil might be OK in an
      oil-filled gearcase.

      Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
      Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.


From jrro@watson.ibm.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!hunter.premier.net!news1.erols.com!uunet!news-in2.uu.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!usenet
From: jrro@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver Solder  with cadmium
Date: 27 Sep 1996 14:16:32 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>, paul@pcb.co.za (Paul Boulle) writes:
>I picked up some silver solder rods cheaply from a second has shop. The rods 
>are marked as L_Ag30Cd (DIN 8513). Can anyone tell me what there intended use 
>is and why they contain cadmium?

One of the functions of cadmium in silver solder is to improve the solder's
flow characteristics.    Once the solder becomes fluid (hot enough)
it will find and flow into the tiniest crack.

A former co-worker described the process where liners were silver
soldered into large gun barrels during WWII - the barrels were bored 
to size, and the liners basically pressed in.  Then large torches
brought the entire assembly up to temperature, and then silver
solder was applied to one end.  

The workers could tell when the joint was good, because a ring of
silver solder would appear at the other end of the barrel, many feet
away.

The *other* notable function of cadmium is to be very, very toxic.
The fumes from the molten solder pool are cadmium rich, and 
this element has been proven to cause all kinds of damage
to humans, both long- and short-term.

So if you insist on using cad-bearing solder, use plenty of ventilation,
and do *not* stick your face close in to the joint as the solder 
begins to flow.  (aside from the flux fumes, too!)

===========================================================

 1959 BMW R50                                           Jim Rozen              
 1969 BMW R60US                                (JRR0 @ watson.ibm.com)                 
 1975 BMW R75/6    (The "new" one)        

===========================================================


From fayguyma@execpc.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:56 EDT 1996
Article: 35676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Guy Fay <fayguyma@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: plans for miniature lathe
Date: 27 Sep 1996 14:55:33 GMT
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>>>During World War 2, Popular Mechanics Press published a book, called " 
>>>Forty Power Tools You Can Make" witha mini lathe in it.
>>
>>I think the lathe article appeared in the January 1945 issue.

Yes- I looked it up last night. Interesting- looks very cheap to make, 
but I'm not sure about how accurate it will be- fileing those ways looks 
like an interesting job!



From pnpnolan@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:57 EDT 1996
Article: 35677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com (PnP Nolan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I went and bought a Drill-Mill...
Date: 27 Sep 1996 11:07:16 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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In article <52cr7h$r83@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jhko@aol.com (Jhko) writes:

>Well, my question is, should I do the same on my drill-mill, and is there
>anything I should worry about, based on your experience? Do I just loosen
>the four large painted screws on the base of the column (assuming I can
>get them loose), cut a couple of little pieces of .0005 steel or brass
>shim stock, tilt the column a bit and try to shove a little piece in the
>g

Well, Joe it will depend who you talk to about this one. I too, own a
Mill/Drill with about the same amount of column lean and I have left it
that way. You are talking about an error of 0.0025 in a 6" radius. That's
just over 0.0004 per inch error. There are *no* Mill/Drills that can hope
to achieve that sort of accuracy anyway. The error is in a direction where
it cannot compound enourmously due to the limited amont of travel in the
quill.

When you are using an end mill, unless you are boring straight down for a
good length, the lean will not make enough difference to worry about. The
run-out error you get from down milling with an end mill is more than your
0.0025 lean can cause.

Similar applies to using a boring head. If a truly perpindicular (better
than 0.0004/inch) hole is required then just set up the work piece with a
dial indicator.

The lean can actually be a benefit when using a 3" Fly Cutter. You can
take a deep cut with the leading edge being 0.00125 higher up than the
trailing edge. The trailing edge then follows along with a 0.00125 clean
up cut for a very nice finish. Admitedly you can only cut in the one
direction to achieve this effect but it is a small price to pay for a
rough and clean cut in the one action.

Now before someone leaps in and says, "but the finished surface will be
concave," let me say that indeed it will be, but by such a small amount it
would not be noticable. If a flat surface is that important you should be
surface grinding afterwards anyway.

As an apprenticed Toolmaker for many years, I can assure you that it is
common practice that one never trusts the machine to be 'true' in any
given sense. If it is important that something be exactly perpindicular
then you always set it up with an indicator. You never know who used the
machine last so you always setup according to what you are going to cut
and not where you hope the machine should.

Peter Nolan


From edk4@aol.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:58 EDT 1996
Article: 35678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: edk4@aol.com (Edk4)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Carbide Grading
Date: 27 Sep 1996 11:47:36 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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What is the difference between C2, C5, C6 and C7 grades of
carbide inserts and carbide tipped tools?

What happens if I use a C2 tool to cut steel, or a C6 tool to
cut a non-ferrous metal?

Other than the obvious advantage of multiple cutting edge
geometries, do inserts offer any other advantage over carbide
tipped tools, specifically lathe tool bits?

Anyone like to expound upon the benefits/disadvantages of 
carbide inserts and carbide tipped tools for the *small* machinist?
(*I'm above average in stature -it's my shop that's of modest size)
------------------
Ed Kingsley




From kevrhods@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 27 16:17:59 EDT 1996
Article: 35679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsgate.compuserve.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Kevin Rhodes, P.E." <kevrhods@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 11:40:05 -0700
Organization: Rhodes Engineering Corporation
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References: <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <52gisu$iqa@coconut.epix.net>
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Garry Foster wrote:
> 
> SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan) wrote:
> 
> >In article <527g4c$rnp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, From skarsaune@aol.com
> >(Skarsaune), the following was written:
> >> The saw has been a good one two - I followed the recommendations
> >> posted by
> >> others on the newsgroup re: cleaning out the gearbox, brace the flimsy
> >> legs, and
> >> get a good blade.
> 
> >Excuse me, but am I the only person here offended by the idea of having
> >to "Fix" a brand new piece of machinery?
> 
> >Why should you have to clean out the gearbox?  If the legs are no good,
> >THEY ARE NO GOOD! PERIOD!
> 
> >If Logan Lathes were ever built like that, we'd have been put out of
> >business long ago.
> 
> >After reading the article in HSM on the Jet Lathe, I was flabbergasted
> >that anyone would consider buying such a piece of crap.  If I had
> >received that lathe, in that condition, no matter what the price, I
> >would have been on the phone to the dealer to get someone out here to
> >pick it up, because I wouldn't even pay the return freight.
> 
> >If we would all just decide NOT to accept inferior workmanship, the
> >quality would have to improve.  Look what happened to the auto industry.
> > We demanded better quality from american manufacturers, and we got it.
> 
> ><rant mode off>
> >
> 
> >--
> > ----------------------------------------
> > Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
> > 09/24/96 07:35
> > http://www.loganact.com
> 
> Are you still making lathes?

I have to hope this was an innocent inquiry and not a subtle attempt at a 
cheap shot.

I have only been a member of this NG for a couple of weeks, but have 
found it to be extremely valuable and informative.  Ask and ye shall 
receive good information.

Scott Logan has been conspicuously present as a generous source of good 
information.

Enough said.

Kevin Rhodes


From nhull@mindspring.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:00 EDT 1996
Article: 35680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!news.be.innet.net!INbe.net!news.nl.innet.net!INnl.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!user-37kb8d8.dialup.mindspring.com!user
From: nhull@mindspring.com (Nick Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Build a Gatling gun?
Date: 27 Sep 1996 11:45:34 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 18
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> > A friend (net denied) is considering ordering a set of plans for a .22rf
> > Gatling gun.  There are two in HSM, I think.  Anybody have any input on
> > these units?  He thinks it would be a fun winter project, he has a nice
> > machine shop and does nice work.
> > 
> > thanx,
> > 
> > Jay, North Idaho

The magazine may prove to be it's doom.  If it holds more than 10 rounds,
its manufacture is forbidden by the AW & mag ban.  Maybe you can find a
grandfathered magazine, then it would be OK.  If undated, it's
grandfathered.

-- 
nhull@mindspring.com
Free men own guns-slaves don't


From rnichols@interaccess.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:01 EDT 1996
Article: 35681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get a screw driver for star of david screws?
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 16:37:30 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
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X-Guaranteed-Fresh-Until: Wed, Oct 02 1996

Note: E-mailed *and* posted.

In article <52f7vb$1rk@gap.cco.caltech.edu>,
lbliao <lbliao@alumnae.caltech.edu> wrote:
:
:In many OEM devices, they use bolts or screws that have a depressin similar
:to phillips screws, but instead of 4, it has 6 corners. I would say that it
:looks similar to the star of david. Since these are very tight usually, it
:is not possible to open them by hex keys.

Are these perhaps "spline head" screws?  In the smallest sizes they have
only 4 splines, but the larger ones have 6 (1/8" is "large" in this
context).  I have a few spline keys, which I guard carefully as a have
no idea where to get more.  You might try an electronics distributor.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:02 EDT 1996
Article: 35682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 27 Sep 1996 16:22:59 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <09960827111131.OUI08.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <09960824070551.OUI61.SLogan@gnn.com> <52gisu$iqa@coconut.epix.net>
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In article <52gisu$iqa@coconut.epix.net>, From gmfoster@epix.net (Garry 
Foster), the following was written:
> Are you still making lathes?

Not at present.

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/27/96 11:22
 http://www.loganact.com




From russ@bbxrbk.basis.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:03 EDT 1996
Article: 35683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@bbxrbk.basis.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <DyECsA.E9y@bbxrbk.basis.com>
References: <09960825195659.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com> <52ec90$ca9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 15:09:45 GMT
Lines: 18

In article <52ec90$ca9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Jhko <jhko@aol.com> wrote:
>                                                                 However,
>the headstock design on an Emco Compac 8 is *exactly* the same as the
>"crappy" Jet (at one third the price). Yep, it has set screws and all, and
>is not machined to the ways. Looks exactly like the picture of the Jet
>headstock in the article. However, to be fair, the finish and quality feel
>is much higher.

Often, all the same basic parts and design are used in a cheaper
lathe or mill as in a more expensive model, and the difference is in
the fitting and parts quality used.  Nothing wrong with this, but it
does point out that you had better not judge machine tools by the 
external appearance.

-- 
Russ Kepler							russk@swcp.com

                    Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Fri Sep 27 16:18:04 EDT 1996
Article: 35684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Junk Machinery
Date: 27 Sep 1996 17:23:21 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <52h2i9$7vp@engnews1.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <52h0ua$b03@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

Off-topic, but oh well.... 

Well, with all the Ford bashing going on, I have to say I really
like my 96 F250HD 4x4 Crew Cab PowerStroke.  It does everything I want,
and gets close to 20 mpg, not bad for a 6000lb 4x4 that'll pull 10K lbs.

- Bart

 

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:05 EDT 1996
Article: 35685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!EU.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.xensei.com!news.erg.sri.com!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silver Solder  with cadmium
Date: 27 Sep 1996 15:28:29 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <rich_klopp-2709960830230001@128.18.30.31>
References: <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.30.31

I don't know whether what you have is equivalent to Easy Flow 45, but the
cadmium is there simply to make an alloy with desired melting and flow
characteristics.

Easy Flow 45 was one well known brand of the formerly popular
cadmium-containing 45% silver solders. It was a wonderfully fluid solder
with relatively low melting temperature (1100 deg F or so) and very narrow
melting range. The fluidity, low temperature, and narrow range came about
because the silver and cadmium were in the corrent portion to form a
"eutectic" alloy. It's too bad Easy Flow 45 has gone away, because there's
no substitute quite as nice to work with (at least until the cadmium gets
you!). The 56% and 72% alloys are pretty nice but melt at higher
temperature and cost more. The non-cadmium 45% alloys have wider melting
range and can therefore separate on repeated heating or accidental
overheating.

In article <paul.11.0013857F@pcb.co.za>, paul@pcb.co.za (Paul Boulle) wrote:

> I picked up some silver solder rods cheaply from a second has shop. The rods 
> are marked as L_Ag30Cd (DIN 8513). Can anyone tell me what there intended use 
> is and why they contain cadmium?

-- 
Rich Klopp


From SLogan@gnn.com Fri Sep 27 16:18:06 EDT 1996
Article: 35686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!usenet
From: SLogan@gnn.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Carbide Grading
Date: 27 Sep 1996 17:51:58 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <09960827124859.OUI48.SLogan@gnn.com>
References: <52gsuo$981@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: SLogan@gnn.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: 14-142.client.gnn.com
X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 27 Sep 1996 17:51:58 GMT
X-Newsreader: OUI PRO 1.5.0.2

Ed,

I've been known to use the wrong grade on occasion (OK, lots of times)
and never noticed any real problem.  I suppose you get somewhat
diminished life (the tool, not the person) when doing that.

Now, as far as advantages over HSS or carbon, that's another story! 
Carbide will run much faster, stay sharp longer, and cut some materials
that HSS has a real tough time with.

There is one disadvantage IMHO of carbide.  It is BRITTLE!  Carbide does
not like shocks, it will fracture.  Interrupted cuts can be taken, but
you need to back off your speed and/or feed rate from maximum.  

--
 ----------------------------------------
 Scott Logan SLogan@gnn.com
 09/27/96 12:51
 http://www.loganact.com




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:52:42 EST 1996
Article: 42816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!newsgate.cuhk.edu.hk!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!news.dra.com!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Inductance on a welder
Date: 28 Nov 1996 06:50:16 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <57jcn8$igs@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <19961128052800.AAA13840@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: artsci.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

vantonova@aol.com wrote:
: I just got a very cheap DC welder (atually, it is labled as a power
: supply, but with 40V at 200A and a wirefeed attachment, I'm sure its safe
: to say it's a welder). Anyway, it has three terminals: -, + low
: inductance, and + high inductance. What the hell does this mean? I tried
: it with both terminals, and it appears the same. Thanks.

The inductor is to help stabilize the arc.  It may be that you are supposed
to use the high inductance for (?) TIG welding, or something like that.
I gather you tried it with MIG?



From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:43 EST 1996
Article: 42817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.io.com!news.fc.net!paranoia.com!filipg
From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 2 Dec 1996 18:31:39 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
Lines: 42
Sender: filipg@paranoia.com
Message-ID: <57v7ab$clp@villa.fc.net>
References: <56sepg$79e@news-c1.gnn.com> <57a2c5$9n3@news-e2c.gnn.com> <01bbdbc0$3ed26440$51263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <57fff6$k22@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: primus.paranoia.com
Summary: sure

In Article <57fff6$k22@blixen.aquilagroup.com>, through puissant locution, kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B) soliloquized:
>>>regarding difficulty of discribing something with words, when a
>>>picture is what is really needed,
>>
>>If you are using a Windows based computer, you can always
>>create .bmp files using paintbrush, or paint, and attach them to your
>>posting...I think.
>
[zap]
>Unfortunatly, due to low quality/quantity ratio of the content,
>(meaning gigabytes of smut) many servers do not carry the alt.
>heirarchy.  Perhaps one of the people with a web page could make a
>sub-page for posting pictures & sketches of projects, problems, and
>ideas.  I'm pretty web ignorant, but heck it worked fine on the old
>dial-up BBSs.

Greetings. This is too true. The web-page idea is what I use for
making programs and image available that I mention in my postings.
Alas, due to the size of my www site, I can only spare about 500KB
at the moment. I would be willing to help in some way. What this
group needs is a communal site... anyone want to sponsor a
10MB account/month? I have been shopping for a mirror and the usual
rate is around 10-15$US per month with no limit on data out. Then
again, I would not expect more than a few hundred transfers for
any one image on the site so exceeding monthly limits should not
be a concern.

Again, KISS is the best policy. It would be trivial to set up a
site with just a main menu and then either by-person, by-project,
or by-general-interest organization. I believe in the web being
a generic and compatible-to-all place so my pages are a bit drab
but they work on all browsers I know of. If you want more, someone
else will have to do it. (http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/REPAIR/)

Anyone have the $$$?

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:52:44 EST 1996
Article: 42818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hardened and Ground Shaft ?
Date: 28 Nov 1996 07:10:06 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <57jdse$igs@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <57d3fp$2sc@newsreader.wustl.edu> <57inka$91g@newshost.netrix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: artsci.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bruce Holder (holder@netrixgw.netrix.com) wrote:
: Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) wrote:
: : I have quite a few pieces of hardened and ground shaft out of old printers
: : and such.  I tried making a replacement crossfeed leadscrew for my lathe
: : out of one, and was eventually successful, but I had real problems
: : annealing it.  Does anyone know what this steel typically is, and what the
: : annealing procedure is?  And, then, how to re-harden it?

:   If I were starting out with a shaft that I knew was appropriately hard,
: round and straight, I'd see if I couldn't think of a way to grind the
: threads, rather than annealing it and trying to get it hard, round and
: straight again afterwards.

Well, I have a very crude, homemade toolpost grinder. Unfortunately,
when I made it, I never thought of grinding threads, so it has no
provision to tilt the axis of the grinder.  Oops.
					Jon



From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:45 EST 1996
Article: 42819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.io.com!news.fc.net!paranoia.com!filipg
From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 2 Dec 1996 18:36:44 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
Lines: 27
Sender: filipg@paranoia.com
Message-ID: <57v7js$cnf@villa.fc.net>
References: <56sepg$79e@news-c1.gnn.com> <01bbdbc0$3ed26440$51263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <57fff6$k22@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <57v7ab$clp@villa.fc.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: primus.paranoia.com
Summary: in KISS principle...

In Article <57v7ab$clp@villa.fc.net>, through puissant locution, filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz) soliloquized:
>Alas, due to the size of my www site, I can only spare about 500KB
>at the moment. I would be willing to help in some way. What this
>group needs is a communal site... anyone want to sponsor a
>10MB account/month? I have been shopping for a mirror and the usual
>rate is around 10-15$US per month with no limit on data out. Then
>again, I would not expect more than a few hundred transfers for
>any one image on the site so exceeding monthly limits should not
>be a concern.

Greetings. I would also like to note that there is no need to go
all the way and register a name for this group site. It now costs
$100/2 years to register one (used to be free for orhanizations but
due to cuts that is no longer the case). I think something like:

http://<provider>/~metalworking

would be just fine until this idea takes off. So, in effect, this
brings down the costs of setting up a site for this group to under
$100 per year... which is not such a big funraising dilema...

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From iwilder@freenet.columbus.oh.us Tue Dec 17 13:52:46 EST 1996
Article: 42820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!freenet.columbus.oh.us!not-for-mail
From: iwilder@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Isaac Wilder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on rifle actions
Date: 2 Dec 1996 13:47:22 -0500
Organization: The Greater Columbus FreeNet
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <57v87q$qnn@login.freenet.columbus.oh.us>
References: <19961126175800.MAA10770@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: login.freenet.columbus.oh.us
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

teamhail@aol.com wrote:
: I'm trying to find info on building your own actions, I'm interested in
: Falling Blocks, and bolt actions.  I've seen some info in the Machinist's
: Bedside Readers, but was wondering if anyone has any other info/plans
: available.
A fellow by the name of DeHass, I believe that is correct, wrote a book on
making a single shot action he designed.  I don't know if it is still
inprint or not.  He wrote a number of books on riles.  Perhaps a used book
store could find a copy.  

Good Luck
-- 
Isaac(Ike) B. Wilder

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.


From mdemers@sunstroke.sdsu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:52:47 EST 1996
Article: 42821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.idt.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!newshub.sdsu.edu!usenet
From: Marlene DeMers <mdemers@sunstroke.sdsu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Filling holes in charms?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 10:21:14 -0800
Organization: San Diego State University
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32A31E1A.7446@sunstroke.sdsu.edu>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Macintosh; I; 68K)

Hi,
I am into making collage pins with charms, etc.  Some of the 
charms only are sold with holes for hanging and I want to glue 
them on the pin base for different designs.  Is there product 
that I can use to fill in the hole that would match the brass 
charm?  I would prefer not soldering them.
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
Sincerely,
Marlene


From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:52:48 EST 1996
Article: 42822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!saluki-news.wham.siu.edu!reliant!john
From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:34:45 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204083327.11754B-100000@reliant>
References: <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com> <57v4ba$bvo@lana.zippo.com> <583vkk$4cr@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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In-Reply-To: <583vkk$4cr@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> 

Paul, 
Steels commonly used in aircraft work are 1020 and 4130.  A good
knifemaker will usually pass 1020 for one with a few points more
carbon!  As with "aircraft" aluminum, so with "aircraft" steel.

John


On 4 Dec 1996, Paul Amaranth wrote:

> In article <57v4ba$bvo@lana.zippo.com> jjmaj@dow.com writes:
> >In article <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com>, Les says...
> >>
> >>The other day, I saw an ad on TV pitching a well known brand of
> >>flashlights made of aircraft aluminum.  The more I think about it,
> >>the more I think the name of this metal is becoming just another
> >>buzz-word.  But, just in case....  Is aircraft aluminum a specific
> >>alloy?
> >>
> >> - les
> >
> >Yes, its a buzzword. Airplanes are usually made from  3003, 5052,
> >6061, 2024, 7075. 
> 
> I have a friend who has patented a little do-hicky that needs a sharp
> cutting edge.  She took the design around to some shops and somebody
> told her it needed to be made out of 'aircraft steel' (that was before
> I was aware of it).  It looks like a decent tool steel would have 
> the properties she needs, but now she's fixated on that expensive
> 'aircraft steel'.
> 
> No wonder Madison Avenue does so well.
> 
> -- 
> Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
> Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
> paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services
> 
> 
> 


From dkoehn@elite.net Tue Dec 17 13:52:49 EST 1996
Article: 42823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!phase2.worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!205.137.48.149!news7.agis.net!agis!newspeer1.agis.net!agis!berry.elite.net!news
From: dkoehn@elite.net (Dale Koehn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: thread indicator
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 14:19:05 GMT
Organization: Elite Networking - Merced, CA
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <58418s$hsu@berry.elite.net>
References: <01bbdbb0$0378dc40$08ddc7cd@telnet.exe>
NNTP-Posting-Host: @modem51.atw2.elite.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

"Dale Koehn" <dkoehn@elite.net> wrote:

>I have an old 16 inch South Bend lathe and it has no thread indicator. Does
>someone know where I can get a used gear that contacts the lead screw? My
>lathe has a 1 1/8 inch  by 6 threads / inch scew. Thanks

Thanks Chis and Scott for the info. I have another question. The ways
on the top half of the above lathe (South Bend 16"X10') are badly
worn. Can the ways be refinished? What is the cost? Can the lathe be
redone fairly close(Fresno, Ca)? Or I have been thinking about moving
the headstock down to the middle and cutting the upper half off. Is
this possible? Has anyone tried this? I do not need the length. 


--
Dale



From glyford@us1.channel1.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:50 EST 1996
Article: 42824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!204.96.36.2!wizard.pn.com!news1.channel1.com!usenet
From: glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC FULL OF FLUF
Date: 4 Dec 1996 14:44:46 GMT
Organization: Channel 1 Communications
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <5842ou$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
References: <19961117210700.QAA12437@ladder01.news.aol.com> <574g9f$ks9@news2.qtm.net> <3296A788.8C1@netusa1.net> <32976B9B.7A9D@ix.netcom.com> <3298C72C.3591@abrasha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: remote34.channel1.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.11

In article <3298C72C.3591@abrasha.com>, abrasha@abrasha.com says...
>

>Many of the largest companies in the world, have made it their policy to 
do "one stop 
>shopping" with suppliers of their choice.  That is a recipe for success 
in industry.  
>After all, "Time is Money".

And getting money out of the accounting department of most businesses
seems to rely on "we're willing to pay these guys" almost more than 
"how much".  

Almost.
              --Glenn



From randymshr@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:51 EST 1996
Article: 42825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: randymshr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Neophyte needs advice
Date: 4 Dec 1996 14:43:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <19961204144400.JAA01213@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32a5012a.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

Check with your local high scool continuing/adult ed program. A high
school near me (Evanston, IL) offers a welding class. After three
entertaining evenings learning how many ways there are are to blow oneself
up with an acetylene tank, etc. the instructor turns you loose. Once you
can lay doen a decent bead, anything goes. About half the class is art
guys like myself. 

You can often experiment with stick, torch, mig, even tig techniques, and
determine what works best for you. Plus, in my situation, there's a full
metal shop we have access to. For four bucks an hour, you can't beat it.

As a recent thread touchingly pointed out, such opportunities are
vanishing, but they so still exist in places. Get out there and support
them. 

--Randy Mosher


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 13:52:53 EST 1996
Article: 42826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: using motor as a generator
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 07:54:03 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32A5908B.584C@cyberhighway.net>
References: <19961114015600.UAA08571@ladder01.news.aol.com> <328b5247.0@mothra.westworld.com> <328bc5f4.476735653@news.islandnet.com> <E143pr.Ht9@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <32923C3A.E9F@ldl.net> <32917f0d.419223795@news.islandnet.com> <56vr44$1d4t@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> <32940c16.520863881@news.islandnet.com> <570h3g$3fi@herald.concentric.net> <583s46$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
To: "Glenn S. Lyford" <glyford@us1.channel1.com>

Glenn S. Lyford wrote:
> 
> >>jrr0@watson.ibm.com wrote:
> >>
> >>>In my neck of the woods (Peekskill, NY, USA) the power company has
> >>>a policy which involves a "peak demand meter."
> >>.......
> I've actually heard of this before in another setting...  a manager
> at a store for which I used work had us switch the lights on
> half the store at a time, about a half an hour apart, just so the
> spike of all the lights coming on at once wouldn't drive his bill
> up...
> 
> You can take that as a comment on the structure of commercial electric
> rates, or the nature of managers, take your pick.
>                                                    --Glenn

Smart manager.....

The power co. uses this to determine how much power must be available.
The peak demand is often set for a 15 or 30 minute interval.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Tue Dec 17 13:52:53 EST 1996
Article: 42827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.dra.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: books to learn from
Date: 4 Dec 1996 15:02:04 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <5843pc$fd8@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <1996Nov22.233828.2923@ole.cdac.com> <5840fl$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
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glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford) wrote:
>In article <1996Nov22.233828.2923@ole.cdac.com>, grant@cdac.com says...
>>2. "American Machinists Handbook" Colvin & Stanley
>
>I've been looking for this for a LONG time, ever since I saw one
>at a friends house ages ago...
>
>Anyone have an address for these guys?
>


I suspect that "these guys" have long since gone to the great tool room in the sky 
(or wherever it is that old machinists end up). The first edition goes back to 1908 
and the 7th edition (which I have) was 1940. McGraw Hill published the 7th edition 
and you might give them a try. You might also try second hand book stores: if you 
find it there, you will probably get it for a ridiculously low price (mine was about 
$4.00, and in good shape); and even if not, you will probably find a lot of other 
neat old books on machining.

Roger Weppelman 



From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:55 EST 1996
Article: 42828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Punch for Making 1" disks from thin sheet
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 13:04:13 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32a56b06.1953775@news.sprynet.com>
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On 4 Dec 1996 05:11:39 GMT, edk4@aol.com wrote:

>Those punches come in two pieces, with one side tapped and a 
>clearance hole in the other, if memory serves. A punch and a die.
>
>Why not attach the 'die' (clearance hole) to the ram of an arbor 
>press and the 'punch' (tapped side) to a metal plate fastened to the 
>base of the press.
>
>Line them up carefully and 'press'. No thru-screw hole, ergo a clean 
>disk (?) It might, however, get a little 'curly' from the process and 
>require a bit of flattening out.
>
>No arbor press? A machinist's vise, with *two* mounting plates, would 
>probably work as well, and might even have less of an misalignment 
>problem.

Nope, won't work if you want a clean disk.  The "punch" half of these
are v shaped.  The slug will come out sort of bent.  See below:

Side view of Greenlee punch

  |\  /|
  | \/ |
  ------

Apologies for REALLY bad ascii drawing

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From nojunkmail@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:55 EST 1996
Article: 42829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nojunkmail@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Timer question
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 08:11:56 -0500
Organization: No Junk E-mail
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Randy R. Cox wrote:
> 
> I need a timer to control my 2 1/2 gallon rock tumbler which I use for
> silica slurry for ceramic shell mold building.  Uses 1/3 horse motor, 7
> amps @ 115 volt.  Motor rated contacts would be a plus, but I have a
> small starter which I could use with a relay from timer.  Need 4 to 6
> cycles per hour with adjustment for on time. I currently run the motor
> 24 hours and this is no doubt a waste of power. I would like something
> cheap of course!  Any Ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Cox

You might consider a timer assembly used for swimming pool pumps, or
lawn sprinkler pumps they have contacts that are rated for motors. On /
off cycles are set with adjustable trip levers. There several
manufactures of this type of timer the one that comes to mind first is
Intermatic brand sold in most hardware and home centers. This type is in
the $50 price range. To do the same thing a lamp timer powering a
suitable relay could be done for about $8 also avaliable from Intermatic
and others.

pht


From cam@bra01.icl.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:52:57 EST 1996
Article: 42830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Chris Marlow" <cam@bra01.icl.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 4 Dec 1996 13:15:02 GMT
Organization: ICL
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <01bbe1e5$6c4f0920$070ce391@chris-3089.bra01.icl.co.uk>
References: <32A48267.22FC@execpc.com>
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Hi Bob.

I use a the Lathe and the vertical milling coulomb for small turning and
milling
small parts for the Helicopters that I own and fly. 

If you are going to be doing a lot of Milling then get the Mill. If it is
only occasional
type milling then the Mill Colombo is the best bet. You are right. It is a
fast change
over from Lathe to Mill. 

The Shirline machines are remarkable. The quality is very good. You will
not be sorry
if you buy one.

Hope this helps. Chris.

Bob Stout <sdesign@execpc.com> wrote in article
<32A48267.22FC@execpc.com>...
> This may be answered best by Jim Harvey but I will throw it out here
> anyway. I am looking at Sherline's Mill and Lathes for doing small,
> light machining of plastic and aluminum components used in my electronic
> projects. I know in the long run I could utilize both a mill and a lathe
> but finances at the moment force me to look at one or the other. My
> question is: Has anyone used the Sherline Vertical Milling Column
> attachment (3050,3480)on the 4000/4400 lathes (for milling purposes of
> course)and if so, is it a viable alternative to buying the Vertical
> Mill? Sherline says it's a fast changeover. I could settle for this
> until I could afford the rest of the Milling machine (prolly the 5400).
> Any more feedback or caveats on Sherline products would also be
> appreciated.
> 
> Bob Stout
> 


From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:52:58 EST 1996
Article: 42831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 12:26:56 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <582otg$3vo@news.proaxis.com>,
   Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>My favorite is Rutland tool and supply. They have the absolute best deals on 
milling 

Rutland is OK. I've found the local small industrial suppliers to be
much better than the big catalog places like Rutland, J&L, etc.
They can all get the same stuff from the same warehouse at the same
price, but the small local guys give a lot better service. And they
deliver!


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:52:59 EST 1996
Article: 42832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Gas Forge
Date: 2 Dec 1996 18:48:40 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:

: the room air.  He discovered that the reduction in
: temperature of the flue gas causes materials vaporised in
: the smoke to condense out and line his chimmney with
: combustable material.  It builds up for several years until
: it finally makes its way down to where the fire is.  

: It lit off and scared him to death when it burned out his
: chimney and had it glowing read from top to bottom.  He had
: done a good job of installing the chimney and insulating it
: - the house did not catch fire.

: He removed the economizer gadget.


Hmm, drifting a bit, that sounds like the wood stove arrangement that
my former owners had in the fireplace.  Large woodstove, going into the
fireplace through a custom made airtight(kinda) gasket, with the flue
gasses then free to swirl and cool off.  The resultant mess was about a
half inch of crystalized creosote.  My chimney never caught fire, but
10 years later, I still get little bits of creosote coming down.  My
woodstove has a stainless fluepipe the full length.  Around here, most
inserts only have a SS pipe until the smoke 'funnel' necks down to the
chimney.

BTW, my former owner was a fireman.  You'd have thought he'd know better.

Pete Brooks



From wbekfo@cosmosbbs.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:00 EST 1996
Article: 42833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <32A31BC7.69B9@cosmosbbs.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 10:11:19 -0800
From: wbekfo@cosmosbbs.com
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: Any comments on Grizzly 4002/4003 Lathes?
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There have been numerous posts about the small Grizzly 
lathe-anyone have any comments opinions  on the two larger new offerings 
G4002 and G4003 from Grizzly?
    Am looking for any and all comments/opinions on these models. Do they 
suffer from the same problems and shortcomings  that have been disussed 
about the small lathe (model 4000)?
    Thanks in advance to all who take the time to post their 
comments,opinions etc. Not trying to start a 'flame war' rather,have been 
seriously considering one of these but dont want to buy one if they have 
all the problems of the smaller one and don't want to waste my funds. 
Thanks again. --Gary


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:01 EST 1996
Article: 42834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:11:52 GMT
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	Chris, I am surprised that you had to use *so*  much force to remove/
	install the spindle. 
	
I was too. But I'm pretty convinced that the force was all about getting
the Woodruff key seated into the bull gear.

We'll see. I haven't spent much time at the highest speed, but it seems
to be working well at all the others.

(How do people lube the back gear, by the way? Are there zerk fittings
out there with 1/4-20 threads, to pump the Teflon grease in?)


From cain@pinn.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:02 EST 1996
Article: 42835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cain@pinn.net (James Cain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AD ABSURDUM ( Was Hole in the Wheel )
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Date: 4 Dec 1996 14:28:01 GMT
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:42835 rec.autos.tech:207108

Jeffrey Prothero (jsp@u.washington.edu) wrote:


: On 1 Dec 1996, J.A.Harvey wrote:

: > 
: > Wasn't this guy's original query based on his reluctance to spend the
: > money for a couple of used wheels? Now we have this guy being told to
: > make up a flange, Buy Holes saws, Find a Machine Shop with a big
: > lathe... So what is the upshot $200.00 ? More? Haven't WE been helpful
: > to this guy! When are we going to tell him about home foundries?
: > 

ROFLOL!

I ususally don't laugh this much reading the humor groups!

Peace.

--
/\/\---------------------------------------------------------      o 
>     James Cain                    /  Good - Cheap - Fast  |     8  __ 
> eMail: cain@pinn.net             /       Pick any two!    |    _i_|[]|
> aka: cain@prc.prc.mrms.navy.mil /#include <std.disclaimer>|\__|______|
\/\/---------------------------------------------------------/-(o_o_o_o)


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:03 EST 1996
Article: 42836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!205.252.116.190!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cast Iron Welding
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:13:24 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <57v9ok$4ss@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <32929b69.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961120172900.MAA18874@ladder01.news.aol.com> <E19FvH.9x8@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <E19GM7.Ats@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <57d4c4$6h6@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <329a7c9f.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
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Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

: >an arc welder, but AFAIK, the keys are to preheat the pieces and to

: >OTOH, the first and last time I stick welded, (in high school), I couldn't 

: OK, OK, OK, I give up already. What does "AFAIK" stand
: for???   HSM, LSM, OTOH, IMHO or IMO, and about 5,000
: aerospace acronyms including a few hucdred TLAs, I know, but
: not that one.  I've seen it several times now and am not
: able to define it from the context.  


AFAIK:  As far as I know
OTOH: On the other hand
OK:   Orll Kerrect -- Andrew Jackson
ROTFL:  Rolling on the floor laughing
WITS:   What is this (stuff)?
BTW:   By the way
BBTW:  By (the) By the way
Reminds me of my late father telling us young'uns the various --BAR meanings
while keeping the language to a G rating.  

JANFU:  Joint Army-Navy Foul Up

Pete Brooks, abuser of language



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:05 EST 1996
Article: 42837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:16:31 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <57v9uf$4ss@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
: In article <57d47p$5qg@newshost.netrix.com>, holder@netrixgw.netrix.com
: (Bruce Holder) writes:

: >Bruce
: >  Who once had a significant program run right the first time. Twelve
: >years ago.

: That's what I loved about the "starwars" miissile killers. They were going
: to test the software at "kill" time. Now that *is* confidence!

Yeah......

: Peter
: Who had a program run right the first time, but all it did was print
: "hello world"

Pete:  Who has been known to drop his jaw at seeing one of his 5000 line 
wonders compile the first attempt.

Pete Brooks



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:06 EST 1996
Article: 42838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:20:28 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 5
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NNTP-Posting-Host: godzilla-ether.studio.sgi.com


The problem is access, or rather, access control. We'd like all the
rcm'ers out there to be able to put things onto the public web site, but
not allow all the crackers out there to use it for hiding and
distributing bootleg software or porn...


From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:07 EST 1996
Article: 42839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on rifle actions
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:17:07 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <57v9vj$id3@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
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Isaac Wilder (iwilder@freenet.columbus.oh.us) wrote:
: teamhail@aol.com wrote:
: : I'm trying to find info on building your own actions, I'm interested in
: : Falling Blocks, and bolt actions.  I've seen some info in the Machinist's
: : Bedside Readers, but was wondering if anyone has any other info/plans
: : available.
: A fellow by the name of DeHass, I believe that is correct, wrote a book on
: making a single shot action he designed.  I don't know if it is still
: inprint or not.  He wrote a number of books on riles.  Perhaps a used book
: store could find a copy.  

Frank DeHaas, and the book is Single Shot Actions, v 1 and 2. *THE* books.
You'll find them advertised in the classified section of SHotgun News,
last I looked.

--mike


From EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU Tue Dec 17 13:53:08 EST 1996
Article: 42840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Eastes <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 2 Dec 1996 18:46:41 GMT
Organization: Vanderbilt University, Nashville, TN, USA
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

Fitch,

If it works, it's production. If it doesn't work, you are still testing.

Ron

>I've had one run right first time in BASIC, one in FORTRAN,
>none in PASCAL or dBASE.    I had one other I thought ran
>correctly, I was wrong, it didn't, but I couldn't tell at
>first - it was a much more clever error than most!  It was
>in dBASE II where I found more ways to trash my information
>with simple undocumented command features than at any other
>time in my life before or since!
>
>Fitch
>




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:09 EST 1996
Article: 42841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:59:20 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Henry P. Szostek (hps@shore.net) wrote:
: Outlandish projects with old aero engones reminded me of one I 
: saw in 1966 in Saint Louis Mo. I had gone there to interview with 
: the Sunnen co. The taxi from the motel to the plant took me past 
: an industrial building. I dont know what they made but it 

This is right across Manchester Avenue from Sunnen (the makers of the
best honing machines in the world).  It is Cupples Products, which makes
the facades for buildings of what are called 'glass-curtain wall' 
construction.  that means any 'skyscraper' or office building with an
essentially all-glass exterior.  They make custom designs for each building,
and then test the glass and seals for simulated hurricane conditions.
That's where the corsair comes in.  They set up a section of wall,
sometimes a flat section, sometimes a corner, usually with 3 windows in it,
on a tubular space frame they have out back.  The corsair is wheeled into
position and chained down.  When all is ready, the corsair is cranked up
and set to a fast idle (perhaps 1200-1500 crank RPM) and two guys stand
next to it, just in front of the prop, spraying fire hoses into the
prop wash!  Instant simulated hurricane!  Several guys stand behind the wall,
inspecting for air leaks and water seeping through.  The corsair is often
run for 3-4 hours at a stretch, perhaps 3 days one week during a test,
and then shut down for a month or more.  I used to live about 2 miles
>from  that location, and it was easily heard from inside my house.  I would
then take a detour past Cupples on the way to work to catch a glimpse of
the work in progress.  The later moved the setup back a few hundred feet
>from  the street, which made it a little harder to see what was going on.

						Jon



From bond@ferndown.ate.slb.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:10 EST 1996
Article: 42842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Peter Bond <bond@ferndown.ate.slb.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: etching knife blades --  asphaltum?
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 11:15:50 +0000
Organization: Schlumberger Technologies ATE
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Aaron Anderson wrote:

> I preparing to etch some knife blades and am following instructions in Step by
> Step Knifemaking by David Boye.  He mentions mixing bees wax with "asphaltum" a
> s resist and
>  using a mixture of sulfuric and nitric acids to accomplish the etching.  The
>  term asphaltum seems to be used in different ways by different sources.  Some
> use asphaltum as a synonym for asphalt while others distinguish asphaltum as be
> ing a powder (bitumen).  Can somebody help me out with this?

I am far from an expert, however - the method spoken (typed?) about most
on the knife-list is to use PCB etchant (ferric chloride) along with
etch resist - standard etch resist pens up to using photosensitive
resists for photo-etching.  OK, so it doesn't help with the asphaltum,
but it gives another avenue to try out.

Speaking from personal experience, I vaguely remember using candle wax
as a resist to make a name plate - I suspect I was using copper sulphate
and plating, but have a suspicion it may have been tincture of iodine. 
Can't think offhand if iodine is going to have any effect on steel.  As
for the vagueness - it was 20 years ago, and I was only 6 at the time!

Peter Bond


From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:11 EST 1996
Article: 42843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 12:42:59 -0800 (PST)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
Lines: 71
Message-ID: <57vaur$t6q@blixen.aquilagroup.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>Possible, but I would *assume* that  would unduly load the smaller motor
>running it continuously below its designed speed, using only the load to
>drag it down. I don't know enough about electric motors to really comment
>but it doesn't seem right to me. I think a motor would be designed to run
>at or very near to its rated amps and revs for the specific application.
>This is a job for an EE-man.

<deep croaking voice>  You rang?

Induction motors will run within a small speed range range of ~93 -96
% of synchronous speed (which is either1800 or 3600 rpm usually).
This would usually be expressed as 4-7% slip.   If you lug it down to
less than that, it will pull LOTS of current, and suffer an early,
(and smelly) death.

So, loaded motor RPM would not account for the difference in power.

Were the motor pullys really the same?  My Grainger catalog shows
recommended motor pullys vs. HP vs. cutout pressure for the pumps they
sell.  In one example, a 3HP motor uses a 4.75" pully, and a 4HP gets
5.00"...1/4" would be hard to spot if they weren't in your hands.

Another trick is to cut off the motor sooner for the lower HP.  I used
to have a 1 HP Monkey Ward (CH made it) that cut out at 90 PSI, while
the 2 HP job went up to 125.

The tables in the Grainger catalog will make all this very clear. pp.
2014-2019 in  # 385 catalog.

Finally, for the paranoid, economys of scale might make it feasable to
install only one piston & rod in that two _cylinder_  pump (Hey, as
long as we're re-inventing the HP, why not?) 

EE hat off, tinkerer hat on:

While we're talking about boosting a compressor's output:
Has anyone ever made up thier own 2 stage pump by putting 2 single
stage units in _series_??  It appears this could be done by gearing
the first pump to  displace ~ 3x as much as the second one, and giving
it about a 3/2 bigger motor.  1 stage pumps are lots cheaper than 2
stage ones, and many of us already have one of them.  For the same
electricity this should give 25-30% more air than running the same two
pumps in paralell.

I've been thinking about this about a week now.  I think the
displacement ratio needs to be about sqrt(Pmax/Patm), which works out
about right for spec'd displacements for "real" 2 stage pumps with
175PSI cutoff, running at sea-level (Patm ~15PSI).  Homebrewing would
let one tweak for lower cutoff pressure (at higher volume) or
compensate for my ~12 PSI atmospheric pressure in Albuquerque.

The first stage could unload by "blowing through" the secondary to
use it's unloader.

You'd need some kind of safety cutoff for the primary stage if the
second stage belt breaks, as it would be seriosly overloaded trying to
pump to 150PSI, instead of only 45-55 or so.  

And one more thing:
It seems like A/C compressors pump a lot of oil, and often lack
cooling fans...Has anyone ever made up a new reed-valve head for a
Briggs & Stratton (with burned/worn-out valves) and used it as a
compressor?  

ciao, Kevin






From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:12 EST 1996
Article: 42844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: which diameters for small threads?
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:55:29 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <57vc7h$cvd$2@mrnews.mro.dec.com>
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Oops!  I got mixed up in the notes sequence.
Somebody else posted the diameters.  In general,
if N = the thread number, then its diameter D, in
inches, is

D = .013*N + .060



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:13 EST 1996
Article: 42845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe bench tool storage
Date: 2 Dec 1996 20:03:53 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
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	Unless I mis my guess, your underneath drive SB
	is on cast iron stands

Unfortunately, no. They look so elegant...

My "workbench" lathe was really meant to be mounted on a bench; all the
underneath drive stuff needs to hang from something. This needs to be
deep, about 24". It came with a wooden bench made up of various pieces
of "two by" lumber, with "one by" diagonals and press board sides. It is
rather wobbly. It also has a bottom, which makes levelling the back
corner (which needs it most) quite difficult.

But it's doing the job for now, as I learn to use the lathe. For
example, I now know that I want the controls a few inches higher. And I
want a place to put tools and indicators and such down while working -
probably on a shelf set or cupboard on the wall, as you describe. I
attached a magnetic toolholder strip to the front under the tailstock.
This works fairly well at keeping the oft-used tools (3/8 sq wrench,
collet knock-out wrench, screwdrivers for the dial gauge clamp and the
micrometer collars) out of the swarf and close to hand, but it will
likely interfere with a drawer under it. I'm considering putting those
things in a drawer for storage purposes, and using the shelf to put
them down while in use. This will require some thought. I really don't
want to end up putting things down on the chip pan, such as it is,
since they tend to get lost.

The bench I have in mind is based on one described in HSM some time ago,
in an article "A Lathe Cabinet/Stand" by Ralph Walker. (I only have a
photocopy, so I don't know the date.) The basic framework is 2x2 angle
iron, with 1/2" steel plate to support the headstock and tailstock.
There is 1x1 angle welded in horizontally under the whole thing to support 
three ranks of drawers. Each of the eight legs has a leveller. It should
be solid as a rock.

My current thought is that there will be room for chucks and faceplates
under the headstock end, but nothing else. The middle "pencil drawer"
will hold measuring tools and such - things that need to be grabbed
quickly but don't want to be in with heavier items. Perhaps the
mag strip tool holder will end up in there, too. A drawer for a small 3C
collet rack and the associated pieces; if there is room left, the
tailstock centers and drill chuck. Another drawer for toolposts and
holders and bits. Another drawer for things like steady rests.

I would love to have another rollaround cabinet to hold everything.
Unfortunately, I'm out of floor space. So I have to organize what I have
as well as I can. The lathe takes up a lot (relative to the size of the shop!)
of floor space and I have to amortize that... I don't know *what* i'm
going to do when I finally find the Clausing 8530 of my dreams.


From pal@fc.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:14 EST 1996
Article: 42846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pal@fc.net (Phil Langefeld)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for thermocouples
Date: 2 Dec 1996 20:08:30 GMT
Organization: Freeside Communications, Inc
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <57vcvu$dse@villa.fc.net>
References: <32908805.390F@pacbell.net> <alshinn-1911961135030001@ppp129-sf2.sirius.com> <n301E3F1A@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>
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In article <n301E3F1A@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk>, mick@sylvstrs.demon.co.uk says...
>
>alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) wrote:
>
>> If you use a digital voltmter (or any other high impedence meter, you
>> don't need to calibrate, you can get charts of millivolts vs temperature
>> difference between the hot and cold juction.
>

I don't know if the tables are on the net, but several are published in the 
Handbook of Chemistry & Physics by CRC.

Type K thermocouples won't go anywhere near the 3100 degree limit desired, but 
*two* could be embedded in the refractory wall different distances from the 
furnace core.  The reading of one and the difference between the two could be 
used to infer the temperature of the core.

Type K units can be had for ceramic kilns for about $30.  Armadillo Clay in 
Austin, Tx has them for that.  Also W.W. Grainger has some that might suffice 
for about $50-60.

Ceramic cones might work, but they only read from about 1000 degrees to 
slightly over 2000.

Phil Langefeld



From kferguson@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:15 EST 1996
Article: 42847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 13:01:12 -0800 (PST)
Organization: Aquila Technologies Group, Inc.
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Just marketing.  Like "space-age engineering synthetics" (cheap
plastic)....Not too many sales would be generated by advertising that
it was made from lawn-chair-aluminum.

Lots of Al alloys are used in aircraft, 6061 and 7075 being very
common in sheet metal & machined parts, and you-name-it in the
castings & extrusions. (you heard it from a Grob owner!)

Kevin "Hoping that landing-gear casting was good stuff" Ferguson



From fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:53:16 EST 1996
Article: 42848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Frank Scott <fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: which diameters for small threads?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 14:46:27 
Organization: None
Lines: 38
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In article: <Pine.LNX.3.91.961130203028.25260B-100000@home.iis.com.br>  Eduardo 
Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br> writes:
> 
> Hi!
> I've looked at in my reference books, but could not find the rod's 
> diameters for threading (with dies), for the following threads:
> 
> 0-80
> 1-64
> 1-72
> 2-56
> 2-64
> 
> can anyone help me?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Eduardo Haddad Filho
> 
> 
--
 My book says that the formula for ANF sizes below 1/4" is

	a x b
 where a is nominal size
           b threads per inch

and the nominal diameter is  (Number x 0.013) + 0.060 inches

Not sure what American inches are. Think it's a system used in 
the US of A and Nigeria!  :-) 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Frank Scott  Sutton, London|
Web site: <http.frasco.demon.co.uk>
More than you'll want to know about my 6 legged robot
---------------------------------------------------------------------------




From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:17 EST 1996
Article: 42849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:15:29 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On 4 Dec 1996 lwc1220@aol.com wrote:
<snip>
> 
>   Quality is like buying oats, if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you
> must pay a fair price.
> However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
> the horse...
>                                      That comes a little cheaper...
> 

Buying cheap low quality tools puts you in the same condition as the
Missouri farmer.  He couldn't afford oats for his mule, so he started
substituting a little sawdust into the mules ration.  It worked pretty
well so he just sort of gradually increased the sawdust percentage in
the oats.  It was working real well, but just about the time he got 
that old mule on straight sawdust, it up and died.

John



From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:18 EST 1996
Article: 42850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
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Bruce Holder wrote:
> 
> w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
> : I would like to cut left-hand threads on my little Taiwanese lathe, but I
> : have to reverse the feed screw.  I think I could do that rather easily, but
> : I would need to obtain one of the change gear bearings.  This is a keyed
> : bushing of about 1cm in diameter.  I don't know how to machine such a part,
> : since the key protrudes out from the bushing.  It must have been molded.
> : Has anyone else been able to get these parts?

All you folks having the same problem tells me I'm missing something,
could somebody explain?

All I do to cut left hand threads on my lathe is to reverse the lead
screw. How come you need special parts?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:19 EST 1996
Article: 42851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: anvils
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hoffman@wmich.edu wrote:
> 
> Would you please advise me as to how to
> 
> identify/test an anvil for quality?
> 
> What are good brandnames?
> 
> What size (pounds) would you recommend
> 
> for ornamental wrought iron items, such
> 
> as sconces and brackets.
> 
> What is a fair method of pricing an anvil?
> 
> Thank you all,
> 
> Richard Hoffman

Dear Richard,

I don't know a good way to test an anvil unless you are an experienced
smith. If you tap it with a hammer, some ring and some don't--the ring
is not a good quality indicator, just shows how it was made. If the
anvil is cast (such as showing raised letters on the side), be
especially careful. There are some great cast anvils, and some very
cheap ones. The cheap ones dent quite easily, and you want to avoid
them. If your tap left a noticeable impression, don't buy it. 

Fisher, Haybudden, Peter Wright are all excellent anvils. 

Blackhawk is a cheap, poor anvil.

Buy the largest anvil that is practical for you. Considerations include
budget, portability, and your shop space. You may only need 50-75 pounds
for sconces and brackets, but your interests may change. You can always
make tiny bicks and tools for a large anvil, but you cannot enlarge a
small anvil. Whatever you end up with, it will be a better anvil if it
is well tied down to a sturdy stand. If you don't want to make the stand
a part of the floor (bury or concrete it), then use a stand with a good
sized footprint, something nice and stable. 

Anvils are inevitably sold by the pound. Page Thomas wrote the
dimensional info below on an email list "TheForge". Anvils often have a
weight cast or stamped in the side. The stamped weights on older anvils
are usually in hundredweights. The older anvils will have three groups
of numbers on them as follows:

	2		0		22

What these mean are 2 hundredweights, 0 quarters of hundredweights, and
twenty two pounds. A hundredweight is 112 pounds, so the above anvil
weighs 2*112 + 0*112/4 + 22 = 246 pounds. It is important to know the
weight of the anvil you are buying, as people often have no idea how
much it weighs. My big Peter Wright (example above) I could see weighed
246 pounds, but the former owner thought it weighed 175. We were both
happy with the price we agreed on.

Anvil prices vary dramatically with availability. Here in Colorado,
there isn't a lot of blacksmithing stuff available, and anvils almost
never sell for less than $2 per pound, often more. Out east and in
midwest farm country (Iowa), prices are probably half this. Farm
auctions are a good place, although not necessarily the best price.
Small anvils (100 pounds and less) seem to command a premium--all I can
figure is that there are a lot more people competing in that price
range. 

---------------------------
>From  Page Thomas:
One can estimate the weight of a standard anvil by its dimensions.

10lb anvil.
face is 6 x 2; horn, 3 1/2"; hgt., 4"; base, 3 1/2"

100lb.
face, 14 x 3 3/8; horn, 9 3/4"; waist, 5"; heal, 13/16; drop, 13/16, hh,
7/8

125lb
face, 15 1/2x3 1/2; horn 10 1/2; waist, 5 1/4; heal, 7/8; dp, 7/8; hh,
15/16

160lb
face, 17 1/2x4; horn, 11 1/2; waist, 5 1/2; heal, 15/16; drop, 15/16;
hh, 1"

200lb
face 19x4 1/4; horn, 12; waist, 6; heal, 1, drop, 1; hh, 1 1/16

225lb
face, 19 1/2x4 1/2; horn, 12 1/2; waist, 6 1/2; heal, drop, 1 1/16, hh,
1 1/16

900lb
face 28 x 8 horn, 19"; height, 18; base 19x16; hh 2"

A farrier's anvil with usually have a longer horn and shorter face, but 
other dimensions are close.

One should be able to estimate the weight of their anvil, + - 25 lbs.

Page
---------------------------


For ornamental work, I often end up applying some specially shaped tool
to the metal. This is a problem; one hand holds the work, one the tool,
and one the hammer. One quick solution that works rather well is a
weighted chain (roller chain) holding the work to the anvil. An
excellent solution is a treadle hammer, but that's another project.

If you are not aware of the ArtMetal and ABANA web pages, or of
TheForge email list, write me for details.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:19 EST 1996
Article: 42852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 4 Dec 1996 16:54:47 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>Why did they ever do it that way?

Cooling. The rotating cylinders provide a great method to cool the hot
cylinders. Water cooling is a lot heavier, and very ureliable at the time.
Also elininates the need of a flywheel (the rotating engine is the
flywheel). 


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:21 EST 1996
Article: 42853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: 4 Dec 1996 16:56:13 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <32A3F227.3687@ldl.net>, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes:

>....Urk!...Up until a few months ago when the *real* Home Depot showed 
>up, our home depot was Home Quarters and Lowes...found a *lot* of 
>substandard stuff there...I have a tendency to picture them in my mind 
>whenever y'all mention the other chain beause they got here first...

Gotta agree there. I almost always use socket cap screws so I tend to
forget the stiffened marshmellow that often comes in those 1001 parts in a
plastic cabinet hardware stores.

>Http://roasted.crow

Gotta ask. Roasted Crow???

Peter
Licking lips and reaching for the Ketchup.



From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:22 EST 1996
Article: 42854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Removing Rust
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Gary Lowell wrote:
> 
> Hello -
> 
> I've taken on a small restoration project.  It's a old Greenfield
> #311 tap and die set.  Most everything is easily dealt with
> with liberal amounts of LPS 2 and a scotch bright pad or brass
> wire brush.  There are some areas of heavy rust - the rust has blistered
> up well above the surrounding areas.  I'd like some advice before
> I take on the heavy rust.
> 
> For really heavy rust on plain surfaces, I'm planning to scrap it
> down to bear metal.  These are all external surfaces, I don't have
> to worry about fit.  Unfortunately, there is some heavy rust on the
> knurled handles of the die holders.  If I scrape these, I'll lose
> the knurling.  I'm proceeding by saturating the rust spots with
> LPS 2, let it soak for a couple hours, and then vigorously scrub
> with the brass brush and then repeat.  This method isn't making much
> forward progress.
> 
> Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Gary Lowell
> glowell@engr.sgi.com

Tool collectors also use electroplating to remove rust. I don't know the
polarity offhand, but it should be easy to figure out. Supposed to work
really well.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:23 EST 1996
Article: 42855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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References: <57d3fp$2sc@newsreader.wustl.edu> <19961126032900.WAA29823@ladder01.news.aol.com><57je08$igs@newsreader.wustl.edu>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 21:18:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Hardened and Ground Shaft ?
Lines: 38

 
In article <57je08$igs@newsreader.wustl.edu>, Jonathan M. Elson (jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu) writes:
>pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>: In article <57d3fp$2sc@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
>: (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
>
>: >annealing it.  Does anyone know what this steel typically is, and what
>: the
>: >annealing procedure is?  And, then, how to re-harden it?
>: >Thanks in advance,
>: >    
>
>: A good annealing process for most hardened steels is to heat to red heat
>: and then cool very slowly in a bucket of lime or such. Even better if you
>: have access to a kiln and can draw it back slowly over a few hours.
>
>OK, I've heard of this lime process before.  How big a bucket of lime
>do I need?  Where do I get the correct kind of lime?  Is garden-grade
>lime from the local garden store going to work?  Or does it need to
>be a particular grain size?  Thanks,
>                                       Jon

Just a warning - if you buy a bag of lime from a builder's
merchant, BE CAREFUL!  If it's fresh it may be very active... I
know it's supposed to be slaked (i.e. watered after coming out of
the kiln) but there is a significant risk of a chemical burn. 
Tender, non-bricklayer hands like mine are quite likely to be
hurt, and you certainly don't want to breath the dust, or get it in
your eyes.

In the past I've bought a bag that came straight off the lorry,
and the whole lorry-load was only 1 hour after being bagged.  It was
HOT! I ruined a work-jacket because the dust stuck hard, and
wouldn't wash out of the fabric. Fortunately I was wearing gloves.

If the stuff's been sitting round for a while it's not so bad,
although you still have to be careful with the dust. 
 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%






From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:24 EST 1996
Article: 42856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Test dont read
Date: 2 Dec 1996 21:47:03 GMT
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To: packrat@proaxis.com

test



From jhovel@hitech.net.au Tue Dec 17 13:53:25 EST 1996
Article: 42857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Joe Hovel <jhovel@hitech.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Model Expo 1997 - expressions of Interest sought
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:31:46 +1100
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Hi all modellers,

This is a request for expressions of interest for the following:
The Bendigo Society of Model Engineers
(http://www.hitech.net.au/jhovel/bsme/bsme.htm) in conjunction with
Events Bendigo is running its inaugural annual National Model Expo on
July 5th & 6th 1997 - an exhibition of model and modelling of all kinds:
Model Aircraft, Boats & ships, cars, farm vehicles, aero engines, steam
engines & boilers, internal combustion engines, hot air engines, farm
machinery, locomotives, traction engines and other road vehicles, model
engineers' machine tools and equipment and general hand crafts, as well
as alternative energy systems (eg solar cars, pedal vehicles, generating
sets etc).
We also wish to invite international participation via the Internet!
We will have a local ISP keep a connection open both expo days for
international exhibitors to show off their models and commercial
offerings related to modelling! and for visitors and exhibitors to stay
in touch.
I would like to hear from individuals, clubs and vendors who would be
interested to have a link to their exhibition pages (with photos and
descriptions of models and their builders), or their club or catalog
home pages.
We will of course have photos of  "physical" exhibits and exhibitors in
return, as well as a live camera showing the expo hall - maybe roving -
updated every few minutes, so you can visit the Expo as well! We may set
up an IRC channel for participants to interact live around the world -
within the restraints of timezones.

Since there are still 7 months to go, I'd be quite happy to provide some
assistance for those who have difficulties with accessing a local web
server for example or no experience with web page authoring AND CANNOT
access a local support person.

At this point, I'm particularly interested in guaging the level of
interest in this event - a "Virtual International Expo"!

As well as posting you opinion here, please also e-mail me direct to
ensure your message doesn't get missed!

Thanks for your consideration!

Joe Hovel
http://www.hitech.net.au/jhovel/


From cetus@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:26 EST 1996
Article: 42858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cetus@ix.netcom.com (Bill Verge')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for Sargent pliers
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 16:58:52 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I am looking for parallel pliers made/sold by the Sargent Co. formerly
of New Haven,Conn. These pliers were about 6" long and and either
polished or chrome plated. They happen to be the best parallel pliers
made (I think!!!).The company does not exist as a tool company any
more.  Does any one have a line on where to get these pliers or where
they were manufactured?
Thanks for the help.

Bill Verge'
cetus@ix.netcom.com	



From jsp@u.washington.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:27 EST 1996
Article: 42859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:12:24 -0800
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On Sat, 30 Nov 1996, Randy Knott wrote:

> James P. Riser wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Bruce;
> > There were several studies done (for electric auto energy conservation,
> > etc.) on the best shape for the flywheel.  It turned out that it was NOT
> > the typical weight at the rim concept which seems so logical.  You might
> > want to research this before going too far in your designing.
> > Jim
> > 
> > --
> > James P. Riser
> > Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser
> 
> Thats very difficult for me to believe Jim.  Are you sure that the 
> more efficient shape that you mentioned wasn't due to an integraly
> built in generator(wires magnets and such)?
> Clint
> 
At a high enough speed a gyroscope/flywheel will come apart from the 
centrifugal force.  The design for extremely high speed has the outside 
rim smaller and increases toward the center.
				CHeers,



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:28 EST 1996
Article: 42860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:17:54 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204111650.11754G-100000@reliant>
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299CBF9.8A6@primeline.com> <3299C507.4CB1@spiff.hr.att.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com> <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl>
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On Mon, 2 Dec 1996, Charles Stroom wrote:

> In article <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com>,
> Roger Peterson  <rlpete@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >
> >Really recommend that everyone consider an Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong
> >gib-type tool post before going to the trouble of installing a
> >rear-mounted system.  ALL of your lathe work will be much easier and a
> >better quality finish.
> >
> >Roger...
> >
> >
> 
> Would somebody be so kind to point to somewhere where I can see
> a picture/drawing of an "Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong gib-type tool
> post".
> Thanks,
> 
In the December MSC sales catalog.  They have their Phase I Piston
tool post sets on sale about 30% off the normal price.  

John



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:29 EST 1996
Article: 42861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:33:44 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On 2 Dec 1996 pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

> In article <32a1e4ec.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
> Williams) writes:
> 
> >I also checked the current rating on my 20+ year old 2 HP
> >oil lubricated Sears compressor - 11.0 amps at nameplate
> >minimum voltage of 230V.  The newer compressors have *magic*
> >motors that can get 6HP our of 15 amps.  I wonder if they
> >have *magic* cfms also?  Maybe you need to move to high
> >a
> 
> This has been a curiousity to me too. I always 'believed' there one horse
> power equalled 745 watts. At 110v that should be around 6.77 amps so how
> can my 'small' compressor have a 3hp motor running on 220 volts with a
> rated 7.5 amps? My trusty calculator says it is 2.2hp.
> 
> The 'big' compressor runs on 220v at 15 amps and is claimed at 6.5 hp. But
> my calculator gives me just 4.4hp????
> 
> Maybe the American horses are smaller and cuter than the rest of the
> world?
> 
> Peter
> 

Sears Roebuck started the trend.  People want more power!  Actually, 
one horsepower is 746 watts according to my physics text.  In practice,
I have always figured twice that for input to get 1 HP output.  

Checking against some of my single phase motors, I find that my 1 HP
Gould motor draws 7 amps at 240 volts.  That is pretty close to 2 HP
input to give 1 HP output.  I see also that my Sears Roebuck Compressor
that is rated at 5 HP also draws 7 amps at 240 volts!  Interesting.
Also the CFM rating is appropriate for a 1 HP compressor and NOT a
5 HP compressor!  Interesting.

I got curious about these ratings and was told that they are 
"peak power" ratings.  They measure the stalled current, multiply it
by the voltage and divide by 746!  Very useful rating.  Your equipment
can run at that level for from one to three seconds before it stops
permanently!

John



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:53:30 EST 1996
Article: 42862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!saluki-news.wham.siu.edu!reliant!john
From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:42:24 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204114138.11754J-100000@reliant>
References: <19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com><19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com> <32a240a3.1406813@news.sprynet.com> <57s604$8vt@darla.visi.com>
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In-Reply-To: <57s604$8vt@darla.visi.com> 

I have STOPPED buying from J&L because the shipping is more than
the tooling I buy from them.  I ALWAYS prepay.  Never got any
"free shipping" from J&L.

John



On 1 Dec 1996, Peter Drumm wrote:

> In message <32a240a3.1406813@news.sprynet.com> - ssl@loganact.com
> (Scott Logan)Sat, 30 Nov 1996 14:37:39 GMT writes:
> :->Yes, we've used J&L, but they started going down hill a while back.
> :->Long back orders, poor service, they were starting to seem like (dare
> :->I say it?) Enco.
> 
> I buy about 90% of my tooling from J & L for about 5 yrs now, and have
> yet to have anything backordered. I don't buy a -lot- of stuff, mebbe
> $1000-$1500 a year, still, the service has always been excellent, and
> the shipping is free if you prepay. ENCO I wouldn't even consider...
> 
> pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
> Using OS/2 Warp 4!
> Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
> All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!
> 
> 
> 


From emporer@success.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:31 EST 1996
Article: 42863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lily.redrose.net!john
From: emporer@success.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 17:54:59 GMT
Organization: a Digital Internet AlphaServer Site
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>   "hotanvil" <hotanvil@voyageronline.net> writes:
>  Lindsay
>  
>  I suggest that you first try a "want to buy" classified ad for
>  blacksmithing tools and equipment.  You will be astonished at the response.
>   In all probability you can obtain a decent forge, anvil, tools and whatnot
>  for far less than the value of your time in building a forge.  Just be
>  sensible;  make sure that what you buy is in good working condition, and
>  don't get a hernia lugging it home!  Good Luck.
>  
>  Oh.  Look up the local chapter of ABANA, the Artist Blacksmith Association
>  of North America.  You will find that most smiths are eager to help you
>  learn the trade.
>  
>  Steve
>  
>>>>
I have built several coal forges for less than $30 in parts and less than a half hour
construction time, not including air source.  It would be hard for me to imagine
buying anything cheaper or for less effort- in fact just the time involved in
placing the ad would likely go over, if your newpaper places you on hold!

Alternately, I can build one for you and ship it out for$100 plus UPS charges...


Lance Berg
LaForge
http://www.joust.com/LaForge


From bmrbeal@twave.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:33 EST 1996
Article: 42864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
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From: bmrbeal@twave.net (Brent Beal)
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Message-ID: <c37cc$c3116.31a@NEWS>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 17:42:33 GMT
References: <Web-2111961717140001@dialup110.bv.sgi.net> <572m02$j6j@camel1.mindspring.com> <329EB71A.5315@aol.com>
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NEKOEYES <NEKOEYES@aol.com> wrote:

>Beautiful Patchwork Quilts handmande with Aloha in Hawaii.

>From "Doll" size to Bed Size

>100% Cotton fabrics used

>Unique & Beautiful fabrics used

>E-Mail for details.

are they handcarved---hehehe




From bc317@mail.lafn.org Tue Dec 17 13:53:34 EST 1996
Article: 42865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!204.74.114.90!news.genuity.net!news.lafn.org!usenet
From: "Ed. Roberts" <bc317@mail.lafn.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Working Homepage
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 08:23:32 -0800
Organization: The Los Angeles Free-Net
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For those of you who have interest, I just found the home page for 
"MODERN MACHINE SHOP".  It's at:

http://www.gardnerweb.co

Lots of info on metal working related topics.

Ed. Roberts



From ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no Tue Dec 17 13:53:35 EST 1996
Article: 42866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ohk@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen FOU.TD/DELAB)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 04 Dec 1996 18:32:22 GMT
Organization: Telenor Online Public Access
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <OHK.96Dec4193222@fantutte1.tfdt-o.nta.no>
References: <01bbe0b8$3fc4ffa0$5e263ece@radix.wwnet.com>
	<582hmp$hfp@newshost.netrix.com> <32A5A521.27B5@cc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: fantutte1-ether.nta.no
In-reply-to: "Steven O. Smith"'s message of Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:21:53 GMT

In article <32A5A521.27B5@cc.com> "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> writes:

   Bruce Holder wrote:
   > 
   > w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
   > : I would like to cut left-hand threads on my little Taiwanese lathe, but I
   > : have to reverse the feed screw.  I think I could do that rather easily, but
   > : I would need to obtain one of the change gear bearings.  This is a keyed
   > : bushing of about 1cm in diameter.  I don't know how to machine such a part,
   > : since the key protrudes out from the bushing.  It must have been molded.
   > : Has anyone else been able to get these parts?

   All you folks having the same problem tells me I'm missing something,
   could somebody explain?

   All I do to cut left hand threads on my lathe is to reverse the lead
   screw. How come you need special parts?

   -- 
   Steven O. Smith
   steve@cc.com

You are missing that some cheap lathes do not have a facility for
reversing the leadscrew.  My AT-300 comes to mind.... There is lots of
backlash, so I thought I would make some new ones with a better fit,
or add an extra nut as a backlash adjuster. Should be simple enough to
make a special tap by threading some drill rod or similar on the
lathe, yes? No. The leadscrew is lefthanded, so I need to reverse it
in order to make a lefthanded thread. No facility to reverse the
leadscrew. I am thinking about modifying the "banjo" to accept an
extra idler wheel, but haven't got around to it yet.

Ole-Hj. Kristensen



From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:36 EST 1996
Article: 42867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 12:35:53 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 55
Message-ID: <32A5C489.35D0@worldnet.att.net>
References: <32a1e4ec.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961202014700.UAA01156@ladder01.news.aol.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204112506.11754I-100000@reliant>
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To: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>

John R. Johnson wrote:
> 
> On 2 Dec 1996 pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > In article <32a1e4ec.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
> > Williams) writes:
> >
> > >I also checked the current rating on my 20+ year old 2 HP
> > >oil lubricated Sears compressor - 11.0 amps at nameplate
> > >minimum voltage of 230V.  The newer compressors have *magic*
> > >motors that can get 6HP our of 15 amps.  I wonder if they
> > >have *magic* cfms also?  Maybe you need to move to high
> > >a
> >
> > This has been a curiousity to me too. I always 'believed' there one horse
> > power equalled 745 watts. At 110v that should be around 6.77 amps so how
> > can my 'small' compressor have a 3hp motor running on 220 volts with a
> > rated 7.5 amps? My trusty calculator says it is 2.2hp.
> >
> > The 'big' compressor runs on 220v at 15 amps and is claimed at 6.5 hp. But
> > my calculator gives me just 4.4hp????
> >
> > Maybe the American horses are smaller and cuter than the rest of the
> > world?
> >
> > Peter
> >
> 
> Sears Roebuck started the trend.  People want more power!  Actually,
> one horsepower is 746 watts according to my physics text.  In practice,
> I have always figured twice that for input to get 1 HP output.
> 
> Checking against some of my single phase motors, I find that my 1 HP
> Gould motor draws 7 amps at 240 volts.  That is pretty close to 2 HP
> input to give 1 HP output.  I see also that my Sears Roebuck Compressor
> that is rated at 5 HP also draws 7 amps at 240 volts!  Interesting.
> Also the CFM rating is appropriate for a 1 HP compressor and NOT a
> 5 HP compressor!  Interesting.
> 
> I got curious about these ratings and was told that they are
> "peak power" ratings.  They measure the stalled current, multiply it
> by the voltage and divide by 746!  Very useful rating.  Your equipment
> can run at that level for from one to three seconds before it stops
> permanently!
> 
> John

Sears is good at doing this with their vacuums also,big
horsepower/amperage ratings for motors no bigger than your fist!
I told a Sears salesman once that I figured that a motor only the size 
of my fist that draws 7amps was most likely a piss-poor design/very
inefficient motor.Boy ,he didn't think much of that statement!
 Has anyone actually put a current meter on one of these machines?
HMMMMMMMM!
Tom


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:37 EST 1996
Article: 42868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:33:05 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <582b0g$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
(Chris Kantarjiev) writes:

>If the traffic gets heavy, Tom, you can impose a retention limit on the
>files and delete them from time to time. 
>
>

Couln't you have a list of senders and receivers addresses? If the posting
did not emanate from one of them then dump it.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:38 EST 1996
Article: 42869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on Jet 1860 lathe
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:33:06 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
Lines: 13
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In article <32A4B585.734D@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
writes:

>from reputable individuals and companies all the time
>is there something you would like buy PETER?
>hmmm  didn't think so 
>
>

Yow, you *really* carry a grudge Andy. <bg>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:39 EST 1996
Article: 42870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:33:10 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <19961204183400.NAA05584@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com>, writt@aol.com
writes:

>Consider this. If you don't use the methods that you find difficult how
do
>you expect to become an experienced machinist? It's the repitition of
>doing the same difficult, task over and over again, getting a little
>better at it each time, that will make you an experienced machinist. Just

>my $.02.
>
>

That's what I believe also Bill. When I get into a 'sticky' situation I
first grab the catalogs for help I can buy. Then I realize it is going to
take days to get the part even if it can really help. I eventually get
back to wondering how it was done in the 'old days' when all of the trick
tools were not even invented yet.

Invariably I arrive at a method that does fine and is used many more times
as the years fly by. A much greater level of satisfaction too.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:40 EST 1996
Article: 42871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CAM
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:33:03 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <582r0q$45u@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
<packrat@proaxis.com> writes:

>This would be a good subject for a thread... What makes a good CNC mill,
and
>what 
>should you pay?
>
>

Sounds dangerous to me.

Peter
Still patching bullet holes and attending to 3rd degree burns in places it
was thought  flames could never reach after a round or two on low-end CNC.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:42 EST 1996
Article: 42872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Sargent pliers
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:33:13 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <582shi$o9k@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>, cetus@ix.netcom.com (Bill
Verge') writes:

>I am looking for parallel pliers made/sold by the Sargent Co. formerly
>of New Haven,Conn. These pliers were about 6" long and and either
>polished or chrome plated. They happen to be the best parallel pliers
>made (I think!!!).The company does not exist as a tool company any
>more.  Does any one have a line on where to get these pliers or where
>they were manufactured?
>Thanks for the help.
>
>

I don't kow about the brand but parallel pliers are used a lot in the
glass cutting industry. Lead-light and such stuff. Perhaps a search for
web sites might turn up an alternate manufacturer and supplier for you.

Peter



From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:53:43 EST 1996
Article: 42873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: which diameters for small threads?
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 13:14:01 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <jesw-0412961314010001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.91.961130203028.25260B-100000@home.iis.com.br> <242543471wnr@frasco.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> Not sure what American inches are. Think it's a system used in 
> the US of A and Nigeria!  :-) 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> | Frank Scott  Sutton, London|

Long ago America and Great Britain adopted the Canadian inch which is
defined as 25.4mm.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:53:44 EST 1996
Article: 42874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 12:57:15 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <jesw-0412961257150001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329a4f20.5279371@netnews.voicenet.com>  <3299b803.134590636@news.islandnet.com> <NEWTNews.849237483.6329.wgrob@dialin.phoenix.net> <329fd31e.882566@news.sprynet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> It also helps (a lot) to have some form of coolant in the cut.  On
> CNC, that's easy, but on the manual, I just drip Tap Magic (Original)
> or Cool Tool II into the cut as it is cutting.  It is also important
> to keep a constant feed.  

>>>>> The best way is to USE the power feed (if available). <<<<

I pound this into our employees, who seem to be afraid to
> use power feed for cut off, but it really works better than trying to
> hand feed.
> 
> Scott Logan

Just to add another cutoff tool data point, I've been getting good results
on stainless with the Enco / Swiss type toolholder, the one with a 40
position vertically splined column. They aren't worth the ~600 list price
but my set cost $50 second hand. Apparently they are unwanted orphans.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From xcprhb@oryx.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:45 EST 1996
Article: 42875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Timer question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:03:55 GMT
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In article <32A518A3.25AA@worldnet.att.net>, Richard McBride <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net> writes:
|> Randy R. Cox wrote:
|> > 
|> > I need a timer to control my 2 1/2 gallon rock tumbler which I use for
|> > silica slurry for ceramic shell mold building.  Uses 1/3 horse motor, 7
|> > amps @ 115 volt.  Motor rated contacts would be a plus, but I have a
|> > small starter which I could use with a relay from timer.  Need 4 to 6
|> > cycles per hour with adjustment for on time. I currently run the motor
|> > 24 hours and this is no doubt a waste of power. I would like something
|> > cheap of course!  Any Ideas?
|> > 
|> > Thanks,
|> > Randy Cox
|> 
|> Randy,
|> The stepper switch found in any washing machine comes to mind here, but
|> there must be  cheap pc hardware/software combo out there somewhere that
|> would go with what you have????
|> 
|> Rich

A 555 timer and a relay.  A dual 555 if you want the on time and off times
to be asymmetric.  It's the basic circuit in the application notes.
Radio Shack used to sell a whole book of 555 circuits by Forrest Mims.

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jccfs@grove.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:46 EST 1996
Article: 42876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jccfs@grove.net (Bob Dalsemer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Folk School Web Site
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 01:45:10 -0500
Organization: John C. Campbell Folk School
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The John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, NC offers more than 450
weeklong and weekend courses a year in traditional and contemporary
crafts, folk music, folk dance, writing, nature studies, photography and
more. Visit the Folk School's new Web pages:

http://www.grove.net/~jccfs/

-- 
John C. Campbell Folk School
Rt. 1, Box 14A
Brasstown, NC 28902
Phone: 1-800-FOLK-SCH   Fax: 704-837-8637
Web Pages:http://www.grove.net/~jccfs/


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:47 EST 1996
Article: 42877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Working Homepage
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 12:55:24 -0600
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Ed. Roberts wrote:
> 
> For those of you who have interest, I just found the home page for
> "MODERN MACHINE SHOP".  It's at:
> 
> http://www.gardnerweb.co
> 
> Lots of info on metal working related topics.
> 
> Ed. Roberts

OOPS...you missede a couple letters in the URL try
http://www.gardnerweb.com/
Tom


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:48 EST 1996
Article: 42878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:02:02 GMT
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	The Amateur's lathe by L. H. sparey, Argus Books.
	The Amateur's workshop by Ian Bradley, Argus Books.
	Screwcutting In the Lathe, Martin Cleeve, Argus Books.

I just received my copies of these. I ordered them via TEE Publications;
they have a Compuserve account, and also a new web site:

	http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/
	
They drop ship to the US once a month, around the 15th. I ordered at the
beginning of November and they arrived yesterday. Overall cost for the
three books was #28, or about $45 by today's exchange rate.

Haven't had a chance to look at them thoroughly, but they seem to be a
nice addition ... once you get past the fairly outdated parts about
wiring a shop in the UK...


From kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:50 EST 1996
Article: 42879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com (Kurt Schaefer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tube bender question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:19:30 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
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I have an OxyA rig, and could piece together a press (in a pinch.)  
Tell me more about these dies. 

   -Kurt


From a.a.chabot@bham.ac.uk Tue Dec 17 13:53:51 EST 1996
Article: 42880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: a.a.chabot@bham.ac.uk (Tony Chabot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Whitworth/BS Spanner Sizes
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:23:12 GMT
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I realise that the size of a Whitworth/BS spanner refers to the diameter of the 
threaded part of the nut/bolt that ir fits, but does anybody know the 
relationship between that figure and the size of the nut/bolt head ? The 
across-flats and across-`diagonal' sizes do not fit nicely into Imperial 
fractional measurements.

Tony Chabot



From kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:53:52 EST 1996
Article: 42881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com (Kurt Schaefer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sand Casting Question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:35:40 GMT
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> The problem arrises with the wooden models.  Even though the model 
> is liberally coated with the talc, we still have a problem with the 
> sand clinging to the models. This is especially true with with D
> rings and other closed shapes.  We would preferr to use basswood for
> the models, because it is easy to carve.  Maybe this is the problem?
>  Do we need to paint the models?  Is wood a poor choice?

I use wood to make patterns all the time.  I do the fillet work using
Bondo.  Then I seal the wood with a couple of coats of quick drying 
polyurethane varnish.  Works a treat.

   Good luck!
          -Kurt




From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:53:53 EST 1996
Article: 42882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 14:05:06 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100> <849497949snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk> <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au>
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>  Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
> above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
> gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
> Why did they ever do it that way?

I think the reason was that they didn't overheat while sitting on the
ground running and waiting for everyone else in the squadron to get going.
WWII radials needed an elaborate cowl flap system to control cooling air
flow. 

Rotary engines weren't necessarily as complicated as radials. The cam for
the valves is in the rear, part of the stationary engine mount. The ones I
have seen or have drawings of only have 1 large valve in the head, opening
right out into the breeze, and either a check-type valve in the piston or
transfer ports like a 2-stroke. Some of the intake air comes into the
crankcase through the hollow engine mount where a spray nozzle simply
saturates it with gasoline vapor. This non-explosive mixture is sucked
into the cylinder during part of the intake stroke, then the cam opens the
valve in the head to let in more air and get the mixture lean enough to
burn. The valve in the head opens again for the exhaust stroke. 

So only the cylinders, spark plugs, piston and valve assemblies spin.
There are no cylinder head intake or exhaust manifolds or even a
carburetor. The piston valve was a serious maintenance problem. 

The gas flow through the spray nozzle can be throttled a little, but to
cut back for landing the pilot has to flip the ignition on and off. 

The engine was lubricated with castor oil mixed with the gas. Unburned oil
sprayed out the exposed exhaust valves and coated everything behind
including the pilot.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From davmc@nbnet.nb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:53:55 EST 1996
Article: 42883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DAVID MCKINNEY <davmc@nbnet.nb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drum Clutch
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 00:19:54 -0400
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I have a 25-1 reduction gearbox rated at 25 hp which I want to convert
to a logging winch. The output shaft is 10 inches long-the first 4" is 
3" in dia. and the remaining 6" is 2" in dia. Does anyone know of a
simple clutch design or an industrial application that I can use with a 
drum mounted on this shaft that would be free-turning to pull out the
cable and would turn the drum when power is applied to the input shaft.
Any help would be appreciated.


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 13:53:56 EST 1996
Article: 42884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anyone heard of this manufacturer?
Date: 3 Dec 1996 22:17:58 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
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I just bought an 8" 4 jaw chuck from Grand tool on their end of year clearance
sale.  I didn't expect much for $85, but I figured I couldn't lose much since
that's about the minimum beat-up used chucks go for around here.

I was very pleasantly surprised. Instead of being made in India or
Bangladesh, it was made by CVA in the UK. It's a really _nice_ looking
chuck.  Anyone know anything about the company and their reputation? 
I'm not actually going to be able to put it on the lathe for some time,
so actual usage tests have to wait, but I'm curious if anyone has heard
anything about them.

And even though they said they were going to ship it 'same day', it took
2 weeks to get here, but under the circumstances I'm not complaining.

-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 13:53:58 EST 1996
Article: 42885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Sargent pliers
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 06:12:25 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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>I am looking for parallel pliers made/sold by the Sargent Co. formerly
>of New Haven,Conn. These pliers were about 6" long and and either
>polished or chrome plated. They happen to be the best parallel pliers
>made (I think!!!).The company does not exist as a tool company any
>more.  Does any one have a line on where to get these pliers or where
>they were manufactured?
>Thanks for the help.

>Bill Verge'
I am also looking for this type of parallell plier, for modifying into special 
forming tools. Rio Grande Jewelers supply has them at a high price from 
england.




From Bob Tue Dec 17 13:53:59 EST 1996
Article: 42886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on rifle actions
Date: 4 Dec 1996 09:05:01 GMT
Organization: WhidbeyNet 
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References: <19961126175800.MAA10770@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57v87q$qnn@login.freenet.columbus.oh.us> <32A4381D.7A9@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil> <32A49617.66A4@mindspring.com>
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In article <32A49617.66A4@mindspring.com>, akgideon@mindspring.com 
says...
[
[Joseph Burnett wrote:
[ 
(snipped)
[Before you go any further, you should probably check with the BATF to
[find out which laws you are about to violate.
[
[-- 
[Alan K. Gideon, P.E. | Naval Architect & Marine Engineer
[                     | akgideon@mindspring.com

This has been done to death several times before here! You CAN make a 
firearm as long as you can legally own a firearm. You may not make a 
machinegun unless you meet the above requirement AND send the BATF lots 
of money...
Bob :{)



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:02 EST 1996
Article: 42887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 2 Dec 1996 23:01:27 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 11
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Bill Harnell (bharne@adss.on.ca) wrote:
: I've been looking for a tool and cutter grinder kit such as the Quorn, or
: one similar to it, for some time.

Well, if you want the real thing, have the 300-400 for the castings, and the
time to do it, contact Power Model Supplies in Missouri.  (See the FAQ
for contacts.)  As far as I know (look Ma, no acronyms!), they are the only
US dealer for the Quorn.  Not sure who sells them in the UK.

Pete Brooks



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 13:54:03 EST 1996
Article: 42888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: 2 Dec 1996 22:02:26 GMT
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In article <57v4ba$bvo@lana.zippo.com>, jjmaj@dow.com wrote:

> In article <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com>, Les says...
> >
> >The other day, I saw an ad on TV pitching a well known brand of
> >flashlights made of aircraft aluminum.  The more I think about it,
> >the more I think the name of this metal is becoming just another
> >buzz-word.  But, just in case....  Is aircraft aluminum a specific
> >alloy?
> >
> > - les
> 
> Yes, its a buzzword. Airplanes are usually made from  3003, 5052,
> 6061, 2024, 7075. 

Each of which has very different properties I might add!

Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From tmcgroup@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:05 EST 1996
Article: 42889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tmcgroup@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cut tubing with Plasma Cutter?
Date: 2 Dec 1996 22:44:06 GMT
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Can a plasma cutter effectively cut steel tubing?  I cut a lot of 1" od,
.095 wall steel tubing with my old chop saw but would be interested in a
cleaner, faster way.

Also, when cutting with a plasma cutter on sheet or plate steel, can the
plasma cutter start a cut in the middle of the piece without a pilot hole?

Thanks for any help.

Chuck


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:06 EST 1996
Article: 42890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 00:28:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I interested, haven't built any, but done plenty of shooting with them.  I
have a Beeman R7 rifle, and a Spanish made pistol.  Amazing accuracy, and
great for firearm training.  I've shot grapes at 50-70' with open sights
on the rifle, and toppled Al cans at impressive distances with the pistol.
 I haven't shot either in years though, but when I get a house with some
sort of yard, I'll be back at it.

Keep in touch,

Paul

TeamHail@aol.com


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:54:08 EST 1996
Article: 42891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bit for drilling 1" holes in thin sheet?
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:12:15 +0000
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>>you could use a tool I cannot remember the name of

>Q-Max hole cutters - a wonderful invention!

Yeah.  That's the fella.
-- 
Charles



From cfharris@erols.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:10 EST 1996
Article: 42892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 4-jaw chuck repair
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 19:34:08 +0000
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Fitch R. Williams wrote:
...
> Fitch
> I wonder if the "ruin" in "how to ruin a lathe" book he
> referred to  was a Freuedian slip ...  back to the flash
> light ...

Na Fitch, I doubt it.  Everytime I see the book, I see "How to ruin a lathe"
They picked an unfortunate style of type that makes the asending bar of the
"N" look abit like an "I" followed by an "N".

-----
Chuck Harris - WA3UQV
cfharris@erols.com


From hotanvil@voyageronline.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:11 EST 1996
Article: 42893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "hotanvil" <hotanvil@voyageronline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 04:26:15 GMT
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Lindsay

I suggest that you first try a "want to buy" classified ad for
blacksmithing tools and equipment.  You will be astonished at the response.
 In all probability you can obtain a decent forge, anvil, tools and whatnot
for far less than the value of your time in building a forge.  Just be
sensible;  make sure that what you buy is in good working condition, and
don't get a hernia lugging it home!  Good Luck.

Oh.  Look up the local chapter of ABANA, the Artist Blacksmith Association
of North America.  You will find that most smiths are eager to help you
learn the trade.

Steve


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:12 EST 1996
Article: 42894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: 3 Dec 1996 00:01:38 GMT
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Fitch, that was almost more than I wanted to know about turttles, high vrs low altitudes, at 
higher levels I would expect the compressor to run longer, but be loaded lighter[ thinner air 
= easier to compress], at the Dead Sea it would have its work cut out for it. Cheers Bob



From brucef@blkbox.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:13 EST 1996
Article: 42895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brucef@blkbox.com (Bruce E. Ferguson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sand Casting Question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 13:59:33 GMT
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We at the George Ranch have begun experimenting with bronze casting.  We 
are heating the bronze in a silicon carbide crucible in the forge and 
have encountered little problem getting the bronze to melt.  We are sand 
casting the bronze with a commercially available casting sand.  It is 
red and oily.  We are using talc as the parting compound or release and 
have had good luck with metal and plastic models.  The problem arrises 
with the wooden models.  Even though the model is liberally coated with 
the talc, we still have a problem with the sand clinging to the models. 
This is especially true with with D rings and other closed shapes.  We 
would preferr to use basswood for the models, because it is easy to 
carve.  Maybe this is the problem?  Do we need to paint the models?  Is 
wood a poor choice?

Thanks,
Bruce



From Jstange@ll.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:14 EST 1996
Article: 42896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 19:11:04 -0600
From: Jstange@ll.net
Subject: cnc
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Any on use Ahha software in a lathe application with threading??
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From james.askew@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:16 EST 1996
Article: 42897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 21:01:15 -0800
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Kevin AstirCS 1U KO0B wrote:
> 
> Just marketing.  Like "space-age engineering synthetics" (cheap
> plastic)....Not too many sales would be generated by advertising that
> it was made from lawn-chair-aluminum.
> 
> Lots of Al alloys are used in aircraft, 6061 and 7075 being very
> common in sheet metal & machined parts, and you-name-it in the
> castings & extrusions. (you heard it from a Grob owner!)
> 
> Kevin "Hoping that landing-gear casting was good stuff" Ferguson


Maybe it was made from a melted down B-17. :)

jim


From gfritz4134@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:17 EST 1996
Article: 42898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gfritz4134@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Removing Rust
Date: 3 Dec 1996 03:59:18 GMT
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In article <32A2F34B.51F@ldl.net>, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes:

>Was it cider vinegar, or distilled?
>
>

Distilled.  Didn't try the cider variety...


From rfra@rsvl.unisys.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:18 EST 1996
Article: 42899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Frazier <rfra@rsvl.unisys.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boomerangs
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 08:53:45 -0800
Organization: Unisys
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vkruger@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Some friends of mine and I built a trebuchet during August of '95. 

How about a steam powered trebuchet? Perhaps the design could be 
borrowed from the aircraft carrier catapult or the ship which 
threw dynamite at the Spanish during the Spanish American war.
	Yeeha!	Bob	(makes your Red Rider look kind of wimpy)
			-you'll shoot your eye out!


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:19 EST 1996
Article: 42900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: free thread grinder: should I take it??
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 21:55:04 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
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To: vantonova@aol.com

vantonova@aol.com wrote:
> 
> About half a mile from my house there is a guy who is giving away a
> threadgrinder. It looks kinda like a lathe with a huge toolpost grinder
> (20HP motor).  It looks like a 4'x15". Don't know manufacturer. It's
> RUSTY. He will give me a nice 4-jaw chuck for $30 if I take it. It
> probably weighs 2 tons. Should I take it? (I have been looking for a
> lathe) Thanks for any suggestions.
> 
> Alex.


you know that old expression
"never look a gift horse in the mouth"??

well this is one of those times when 
that saying should be disregarded

you can't do lathe work on a
thread grinder so in my PROFESIONAL
opinion stay farrrrrrrrrrr away the that old nag<g><w>

sure some rocket scientist out there will say you can modify it
and convert it and screw with it
stay away
get the picture<w>


regards
andy popky
xl machinery sales inc
(have i got a lathe for you!!!)<w>


From swwood@swwood.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:21 EST 1996
Article: 42901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <32A5A4F4.6E02@swwood.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 09:21:08 -0700
From: Jim Harrison <swwood@swwood.com>
Reply-To: swwood@swwood.com
Organization: Southwestern Woodworking
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We would like to thank everyone for all the creative info and wish
everyone and happy holiday season.
-- 
Jim Harrison
Southwestern Woodworking
http://www.swwood.com


From EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU Tue Dec 17 13:54:22 EST 1996
Article: 42902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Eastes <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:34:25 GMT
Organization: Vanderbilt University, Nashville, TN, USA
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russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler) wrote:
>In article <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu>,
>
>>If it works, it's production. If it doesn't work, you are still testing.
>
>If you're not sure it works it's beta.
>

Russ,

My programs "ALWAYS WORK". No beta versions for me. It's just those pesky 
unanticipated results that seem to seek me out.

As I've always said, computers were designed for programmers to play 
with. They were never intended to be used by real people, to do 
productive work.

Ron



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:23 EST 1996
Article: 42903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 3 kW steam engine wanted to buy
Date: 4 Dec 1996 20:48:24 GMT
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Dear Friends:

I wish to  purchase a  low maintenance
 steam engine for a UK science project.

 If you can build, or currently produce such
 engines I  would like  to hear from you.

Greetings,

Alberto


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:24 EST 1996
Article: 42904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: moveable quill
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I have an older mill (Van Norman #12) which does not have a moveable
quill. To change the cutter to table distance, you need to move the
table. I would like to make a moveable quill for it to make things like
drilling a bit easier.

How are moveable quills put together? If anyone can point me to drawings
on the net or by paper reference, that would help a lot.

Thanks,
-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:25 EST 1996
Article: 42905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 01:30:38 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth) wrote:

>And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
>is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
>that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
>grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.
>One of the illustrations shows it being used to sharpen the flutes on
>an end mill.

If you ever find it I wouldn't mind knowing which PIM it's in so I can
find it in the library.

Jens


From ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br Tue Dec 17 13:54:26 EST 1996
Article: 42906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Eduardo Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: where did I see it?
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 18:47:55 -0200
Organization: Inside Information Systems
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Hi,
I've recently saw the pictures and drawings for an attachment for those 
simple drill sharpeners, like General's, which moves the sharpener 
forward and backwards so that both drill's lips have the same length.

But I just can't rememeber where I saw it.
I subscribe to PIM, HSM and Engineering in Miniature.
I don't know if I saw it there or in some book (I've looked in the 
magazines, but couldn't find it).
Does someone here know if I'm missing something?

Thanks!

Eduardo Haddad Filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br




From brnzcaster@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:27 EST 1996
Article: 42907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sand Casting Question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 22:14:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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For wood patterns in oil-bonded sand, I heavily wax the pattern (three or
four coats, well buffed) and use regular kitchen-type corn starch as the
parting compound. This works well, even on deep cavities.
--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:28 EST 1996
Article: 42908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: . .lathe or mill...which would I get the most use out of?
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 22:47:36 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 35
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kferguson@aquilagroup.com (Kevin  AstirCS "1U"   KO0B) wrote:

<snip..for bandwith sake>
>Whichever you buy, get the biggest one possible without incurring a
>divorce. Even if you only work on small stuff, the extra rigidity
>makes for less chatter, better finishes, and more fun.  Toward this
>end, used industrial grade equipment is the better buy.

>-KF-

People,

I work silver by the old
method...hammers/stakes/anvils/heat/sweat/cursing..
I would like to "discover" the modern method of  carving finials and
other parts I deem will work with my design.

I only wish to have a simple machine which will allow me to carve some
finials out of sterling.  I have absolutely NO idea how lathes/mills
work, let alone the tools/attachments that go with them.

I really appreciate YOU machinists that have done so much to bring
innovative designs to the market. And have made all our lives easier
thru products that you have produced.

But, keep in mind...what goes around comes around.  There is a new
found appreciation for objects made entirely by hand.

Thats who I am.

Regards,

Jim Waggener




From raymond.frye@spacebbs.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:29 EST 1996
Article: 42909 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: raymond.frye@spacebbs.com (RAYMOND FRYE)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4
Message-ID: <8CD82E8.05AD006A5C.uuout@spacebbs.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 12:24:00 -0800
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Renewable at soltherm@chatlink.com writes:

>  350 - 80  delta of 270F    (120PSI)

>  270F * 4.2 Lbs = 1134 BTU's. 

>  but 1200 BTU's needed to vaporize 1 lb H20 to steam, so  4.2 LBS H20
>  would need 5000BTU's??.

>  What I want to know, is how many BTU's would I save if the feedwater
>  was heated to 200F instead of to 80F and then fed to boiler/engine.
----------------------

Starting with your last question:

       approx. (200 - 80) = 120 BTU/lbm (504 BTU)

For your boiler:

       Heating from 80 to 341.3 F everything is liquid.

       approx. (341.3 - 80) = 261.3 BTU/lbm (264.2 is a bit closer)
       has gone into heating.

       At this point you start generating steam. The temperature in the
       boiler will remain at 341.3 F until all the liquid becomes steam.

       796 BTU/lbm goes into making this phase change.

       (To get higher than 341.3 F requires a superheater)

       approx. 3.9 BTU/lbm from the superheater to get to 350F

       264.2 + 796 + 3.9 = 1064 BTU/lbm (~4469 BTU)

   Boiler losses have been ignored, but this is the basic school stuff.
   A good set of steam tables would get you a closer answer and the
   1200 BTU/lbm is likly a rule of thumb that accounts for losses.

   OK, so now if you build something you have to tell us.

Ray

 * RM 1.3 02229 * a somnambulist in the information trafic jam


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:30 EST 1996
Article: 42910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: 4 Dec 1996 03:14:15 GMT
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You've got to remember there are "copywriters horses" and then there are the horses 
that the rest of us ride! The former are much more numerous and profitable; hence 
the preference for them in advertising.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:31 EST 1996
Article: 42911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CAM
Date: 4 Dec 1996 03:26:18 GMT
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GD <hpbygd@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I am thinking of adding a computer controled mill to my home shop and
>was wonder if anyone had and ideas on what to look for and also I am
>looking for any good reading material on the same. I am loking for
>something under 20,000 dollars U.S. I am another guy who would rather
>drive a 1,000 dollar car and run a 20,000 dollar mill. Or as I like to
>say if I have to explain it you wouldn't understand! Any thoughts would
>be greatly appreciated.
>                           GD

Very little to read out there. For twenty thousand, you can get a fairly good ready 
to run, Bridgeport clone with CNC.  (note: watch out for limited Z axis travels!) I 
have the Centroid controller in mine, and like it. Others are probably just as good. 
 The problem with this field is that there is so little literature or books out 
there. What exists is hopelessly outdated. You just about have to hold your nose and 
jump in. Try you local community college first. They may be able to educate you 
enough to be able to ask the right questions. This area of machining is changing so 
rapidly that the literature is obsolete before it is printed!

This would be a good subject for a thread... What makes a good CNC mill, and what 
should you pay?

Regards, Mark



From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 13:54:32 EST 1996
Article: 42912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Browning vs. Bluing
Date: 4 Dec 1996 20:32:46 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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Alan K. Gideon (akgideon@mindspring.com) wrote:
: I understand that a process called "browning" was used as a surface
: protection for rifle barrels in the 19th century, like bluing is now. 
: I've seen the result, but I'm not too sure about trying it just because
: it is advertised as "historically accurate."  What time frame was it
: used in?  Why is it no longer used; simply because bluing produces a
: prettier finish?  Is there some hidden failure mode, like crevice
: corrosion, to worry about?  Exploding gun barrels are not a fun thing to
: think about.

Traditional rust browning is done by repeatedly allowing a very thin 
layer of rust to form in a humid cabinet and then carding it, i.e.,
burnishing off the loose rust. Today's it's done with steel wool.

Rust bluing adds another step: Boiling the part in water. This converts the 
red iron oxide to black iron oxide.

I think the black oxide is a tougher coating, but I have a rust-browned
pistol I did 20 years ago that hasn't changed or developed any pitting.

I don't know when bluing too over. I have an English shotgun from 1820 
that was browned. I think the conversion was a gradual process over
many years.

--mike



From vkruger@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:33 EST 1996
Article: 42913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vkruger@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boomerangs
Date: 3 Dec 1996 00:33:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Some friends of mine and I built a trebuchet during August of '95. It had
a 10 foot wooden main beam and four 55 gal. drums of Bondo as a
counterweight. We threw two GMC van brake rotors, welded together, at a VW
Scirocco. We also tossed a lawn mower. There is just something poetic
about lawn-and-garden equipment flying through the air...... I have some
JPGs of it if anyone is interested. 


From radix@wwnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:34 EST 1996
Article: 42914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 3 Dec 1996 01:21:38 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (A private banking cartel)
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I would like to cut left-hand threads on my little Taiwanese lathe, but I
have to reverse the feed screw.  I think I could do that rather easily, but
I would need to obtain one of the change gear bearings.  This is a keyed
bushing of about 1cm in diameter.  I don't know how to machine such a part,
since the key protrudes out from the bushing.  It must have been molded. 
Has anyone else been able to get these parts?
-- 
God ==> Man ==> State

W.J.Ward, Redford Twp., Michigan


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:35 EST 1996
Article: 42915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTD: To buy US horizontal lathe
Date: 5 Dec 1996 01:50:21 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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Dear Friends:

We are trying to buy, a brand new  US made horizontal lathe, table
diametre app. 5 ft,
and able to handle very heavy high tensile steel items, up to 1 tonne,
must be very rigid.

Do you have any suggestions for us ?

Alberto Bohigas
Aldborough Enterprises Ltd.

Fax: (England) 181-590-1147


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:36 EST 1996
Article: 42916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tube bender question
Date: 5 Dec 1996 01:54:01 GMT
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  Several people have asked me how I made my bender dies for a hydraulic
press so here goes. I start with a piece of pipe big enough around to make
a decent radius. The ones that I've made so far are for 1/2 and 3/4 black
pipe. The 1/2" die was made from a piece of 3" pipe and the 3/4" die from
a piece of 4" OD light wall tubing. I cut a piece off that was as long as
the pipe to bent is around. In other words the 1/2" die was made from a
piece of 3" pipe (about 3 1/2" OD) that was 7/8" long. It is nice to be
able to cut the pipe long and face to length on a lathe but you can get by
just grinding it until it is parrallel. I then cut the resulting ring of
pipe in half so that I finished with a halfmoon shape. Then take two
pieces of plate or strap that is wide enough to go from two ends of the
half ring and stick over the rounded end at least half the thickness of
the pipe that is to be bent. For the 1/2" die decribed this would be at
least 2 1/4" wide but I think that I used 2 1/2" because it is easier to
find. The plates should be a little longer than the half ring  OD. Mine is
something like 4 1/2" for the 3 1/2" ring. I then take and weld the plates
to the half ring being carefull to keep the one edge of the plate even
with the ends of the half ring. I use several beads to fill up the corners
where the plates join to the half ring until it is fairly rounded. It
doesn't have to be perfect just get it fairly close. I then find a piece
of strap  to put on top. I cut it the same length as the OD of the half
ring. and weld it in place. I then put a short length of pipe on top of
the die to help center and stabilize the die on the press ram. It is a
fairly loose fit on the ram but it does the job. When all the welding is
done then it is time to grind. I don't round the plates on the sides as
they help to locate the die on the pipe. All that welding will have bent
the corners in and they will have to have a fair amount ground off. I just
keep grinding until a piece of the pipe I want to bend will just fit in
the die and touch bottom. I also grind the protruding corners so that they
slope out making them loose on the pipe. If you don't do this you may have
trouble getting the die off the pipe after you bend it. This is almost
harder to discribe than to build. I hope I haven't lost anybody. Here is a
acsii picture that may be clearer.


             |              | 
             |              |                                   The pipe
that goes onto the ram.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX                    The piece of strap that goes
on top. 
| .                                      . |                     The dots
are the half ring.
|  .                                    .  |
|    .                               .     |
|        .                      .          |
|              .         .                 |
|                                          |
|________________________|


        |          |
        |          |
   XXXXXXXXXXXX                 The top pice of strap can stick over the
side allowing 
     X              X                   the use of a standard width piece
of strap.
     X              X
     X              X
     X              X
     X              X
     X              X
     X _______ X
     X   W  W   X
     X W      W X
     X              X



 I have a frame made of two pieces of 2" sched. 80 pipe with two pieces of
strap welded between that I use with the dies. It looks something like
this.



PPPPPPPPP                    The P's are the pipe and the S are the strap.
 S             S
PPPPPPPPP     

 I have succesfully bent pipe up to a little over 90 deg with these dies
with a minimum of crushing. One thing is that you need to leave something
like 2 or 3 inches per side of slack between the frame pipes and the dies.
If you get this spacing to small it will start crushing the pipe as you
start getting closer to 90 degrees. The frame could be made adjustible but
I was just trying to get some pipe bent and didn't take the time. If you
have a welder and a good angle grinder it doesn't take to long to make
dies like these. I don't know that I would want to make dies much bigger
than 1 1/4 pipe because it would take a lot of weld to fill up the
corners. They also don't have to be made from anything very heavy. The
overall design lends considerable strength. The side plates can be made
>from  1/4" stock and the pipe can be really thin. On my 3/4" die I used a
piece of badly rusted tubing that was less than 1/8" wall. By the time you
get all the weld on it it's not going anywhere. 

 Have fun and let me know if you have any questions.                  

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:37 EST 1996
Article: 42917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: 5 Dec 1996 01:53:58 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <582afo$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
(Chris Kantarjiev) writes:

>My plan was to remove the screw(s) and gaskets, install a zerk, grease
>it up, replace the screws. But there's no such thing as a 1/4-20 zerk. 
>
>

  They do make a 1/4-20 grease zert. We have a box of them at the shop. We
got ours from the local NAPA auto parts but you should be able to find
them at any good hardware or parts store.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From pilecki@interport.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:39 EST 1996
Article: 42918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wdennis@interport.net (Ward Dennis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: images on nicklesilver?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 20:39:56 -0500
Organization: Interport Communications Corp.
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b7

hello- 
Just wondering if anyone in this ng could advise me about a project I am
working on.  Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
metal surface - specifically nikle silver. I highly doubt whether I could
use photographic developing techniques as there is no "tooth" for it to
grab onto. An apperance of a photographic image on the surface of the
metal is what I am aiming for regardless of the process. Any ideas?. Any
feedback would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
carol

pilecki@interport.net



From gdgoen19@metropolis.idt.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:40 EST 1996
Article: 42919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@metropolis.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Milling  Attachment
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 19:42:50 -0500
Organization: IDT 
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To: okm@pacbell.net
In-Reply-To: <Pine.BSI.3.95.961130212206.28378B-100000@metropolis.idt.net>


Check out "How to Mill on a Drill Press" in  Popular Mechanics,
January 1969, for a drawing of the gadget in question. (an adapter
to facilitate light milling in a drill press)

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@mail.idt.net





From letsgoyeskoo@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:41 EST 1996
Article: 42920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Richard C. Yeskoo" <letsgoyeskoo@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Hardinge Horizontal Mill
Date: 5 Dec 1996 02:17:16 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <01bbe252$9a323d40$36dd92cf@379141023worldnet>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I purchased a little Hardinge horizontal mill serial number 47-24911.  It
uses 4C collets and has a 3" by 12" table.  I am missing everything.  I
would appreciate info on where to find instructions, pictures of the vise
and other accessories so I could possibly make them, tooling, etc.  I
called Hardinge which says it has no information -- in fact, the customer
service rep wasn't aware that Hardinge made these.  I would think a
manufacturer would be proud of a machine as well built as this and provide
at least minimal support, but I guess there is no money in these old tools.
 Thanks in advance.



From n5kzw@eden.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:42 EST 1996
Article: 42921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edwin bailen <n5kzw@eden.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 21:26:18 -0600
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Lines: 28
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On 1 Dec 1996, Edward Haas wrote:

> 	--Maybe the top of this thread has been deleted from my server 
> already, but a few other good books come to mind. Foremost would be 
> Machinery's Handbook. I don't know which edition is current, but anything 
> beyond the 21st ed. is probably useful. 

Now you tell me! I just paid $12 for a 21st ed. :=)  What's the most 
serious deficiency for this edition (relative to the tyro machinist)?

> 	-Other books: Colvin and Stanley wrote a whole series of books 
> and any you find in a used book store will be worth the price. 
> 	-Another one worth buying, either new or used is Marks' Handbook 
> for Mechanical Engineers. This one (particularly the older editions) has 
> many useful tables, particularly for those interested in steam projects.
> -- 
> 	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Can you do  	
> 	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	the Tibetan Memory Trick??
> 	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
> 		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
> 	
> 
> 

Regards,
Ed


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:43 EST 1996
Article: 42922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Burner Melt+Forge Metal
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 04:29:26 GMT
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Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:

>> BTW, how do you put pictures INTO a newsgroup posting ?
>> I use netscape 3.0 on both Windows NT/95 and Sun Solaris.
>> 
>> Klaas

>You guys using Netscape Navigator 3.0---
>I hardly ever am able to get references.  I click on them 
>and about 95% of the time I get "News error---".  Am I
>doing (or not doing) something wrong (right)?

>-- 
>Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

>Checkout the Metal Web News at:
>new address (11/23/96)

>http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

>Checkout the FAQ at:
>http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

I used to use Netscape.  I had lots of problems getting
references.  I felt like I could see the news group with
only one eye.  Now I use Free Agent.  IMO it is easier to
configure and has more functionality as a NG reader.  I am
much happier with it as a NG browser than I was with
Netscape.

In fact buying their full up "Agent" product is on my
Christmas list.   It is only something like $25.00
downloaded or $40.00 with a manual.  Agent has E-mail built
in and is compatible with Eudora so that my legacy E-mail
files can be imported.

I believe the publishers are located at www.forteinc.com or
something close to that.  I had the paper here someplace but
it got buried or was a victum of the Thanksgiving cleanup.

Fitch



From cfharris@erols.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:44 EST 1996
Article: 42923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More AA/Sears Lathe questions
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:44:05 +0000
Organization: C. F. Harris - Consulting
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32A5E295.74B4@erols.com>
References: <57fr23$4b@server.eng.dsea.com> <19961130192700.OAA29672@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe123$8b348300$010d0787@echo.cb.lucent.com> <32A43F2E.1A23@cyberhighway.net> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961203204028.27925D-100000-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca>
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Tom Kruesel wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Paul Pierce wrote:
> 
> > George Erhart wrote:...
> Do you have the chart that came with the lathe.  I know the change gears
> are a bit of fun, but once you figure the chart out they aren't too bad.
> If you don't have the chart, let me know, I'll send you the specs.
> 
> Tom

One interesting coincidance is the gears and gear chart for the A&A lathe are exactly the
same as those for the 6" Atlas "618".

-----
Chuck Harris - WA3UQV
cfharris@erols.com


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:45 EST 1996
Article: 42924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 22:47:40 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Quoted from the local paper:

LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.

This worth a second look? Opinions?

Jim Waggener



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:54:48 EST 1996
Article: 42925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 08:35:25 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <32a5a3f8.885391@news.islandnet.com>
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ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>>Just to add another cutoff tool data point, I've been getting good results
>>on stainless with the Enco / Swiss type toolholder, the one with a 40
>>position vertically splined column. They aren't worth the ~600 list price
>>but my set cost $50 second hand. Apparently they are unwanted orphans.
>
>I've heard that that type is actually far superior to the Aloris type
>and its clones.  Not sure why, in fact, I've never even looked at one
>closely.

I've looked at them from afar ....longingly

One thing that drives me nuts with a standard Aloris type post is the
fact that the base has to be re-aligned a lot.
Let's say you want to cut threads - you set your compound to 28
degrees but then you need to loosen the toolpost, re-align and (if you
are picky) indicate it. This seems a great big waste of time to me. I
would rather be able to set up the post once and forget about it ...
then just move the holder over a few notches.

I guess since they are fixed notches getting an angle exact could be a
problem. Also, if you want to make a tool holder, that kind of a
holder would be very difficult to build.

Jens

PS.: Never used one of those fancy splined holders so take my opinion
with several grains of salt.


From DunnIn@bc.sympatico.ca@bc.sympatico.ca. Tue Dec 17 13:54:49 EST 1996
Article: 42926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. Dunn" <"DunnIn@bc.sympatico.ca"@bc.sympatico.ca.>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:55:40 -0800
Organization: BCTEL Advanced Communications
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <585ker$4h6@news.bctel.net>
References: <57nr47$cnf@herald.concentric.net> <57ntku$65o@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <57o4qs$5va@herald.concentric.net> <57plt1$47p@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <57pr8m$721@herald.concentric.net> <32a3b50f.1576015@news.atl.mindspring.com> <32A48868.506A@erols.com> <01bbe197$182f87a0$28e4cbcc@armstdaa>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:42926 rec.autos.tech:207244

Dennis A. Armstrong wrote:
> 
> Everyone has missed the point!!!
> 
> The hole in the wheel is there to be able to pick up the wheel.  Think
> about the last time when you handled a wheel - Did you stick your fingers
> into the lug nut holes to lift???  No, You most likely reached into the
> wheel hole and lifted.  Otherwise, the only way to pick up a wheel would
> take two hands.  Messing up this hole leaves grave risk of a burr or sharp
> edge which could cause serious hand cuts.
> --
> Dennis A. Armstrong
> armstdaa@3-cities.com


You guys are all wrong about the centre hole in the wheel.Have you not 
noticed that its the perfect size to hold your beer when your doing 
your brakes.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:54:50 EST 1996
Article: 42927 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 06:29:24 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Message-ID: <585q44$90t@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

ANDY POPKY (tool@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: you beter turn off your computer
: and go look at it
: check the s/n
: if you give me the s/n i can tell you the age 
: if it is in halfway decent shape
: then BUY IT 

My thoughts, exactly.  $950 is a good price, even if the lathe is well
worn, and has few accessories.  If in good condition, you'd better break
the news to us gently, over a couple weeks or so.
						Jon



From RICHARD_RUMANCIK@MBnet.MB.CA Tue Dec 17 13:54:51 EST 1996
Article: 42928 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: RICHARD_RUMANCIK@MBnet.MB.CA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone know anything about Electroplating?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:32:38 GMT
Organization: MBnet - Manitoba's Connection To The Internet
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X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

You might try to hunt down a copy of ELECTROPLATING by J. Poyner, Argus Books (England).  
ISBN 0-85242-862-6.

Lots of interesting info about plating for the home machinist or student.  Best to stay away from the more dangerous 
chemicals, though.


Richard Rumancik



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:54:53 EST 1996
Article: 42929 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: moveable quill
Date: 5 Dec 1996 06:48:55 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <585r8n$98r@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <32A5E745.1ED9@cc.com>
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Steven O. Smith (steve_smith@cc.com) wrote:
: I have an older mill (Van Norman #12) which does not have a moveable
: quill. To change the cutter to table distance, you need to move the
: table. I would like to make a moveable quill for it to make things like
: drilling a bit easier.

: How are moveable quills put together? If anyone can point me to drawings
: on the net or by paper reference, that would help a lot.

Bridgeport quills are made from a tube of steel (I think), ground on the 
inside to hold the bearings, and chrome-plated and ground on the outside. 
The outside of the quill is ground to a mirror finish, and presumably  
VERY accurately to a cylindrical shape, coaxial to the inner bore.    
The quill is a very fine slip fit into the quill housing, which is normally 
a grey Iron casting.  it is accurately bored to about the same diameter 
as the quill.  I don't know what the clearance is between quill and housing, 
but it is quite small, certainly less than a thousandth.  The upper part 
of the housing is bored something like .080" larger, and a 'skirt' made 
of rolled .040" sheet steel fits between the quill and housing.  On the 
Bridgeport 'M' head, it is brass, but otherwise similar.  I've never 
understood the purpose of these skirts, and if someone would like to fill
us in on what they do, I'd appreciate it.  I believe they may have something
to do with providing a more even film of lubrication to the top of the
quill slide through capillary action, but I'm guessing.  On the Brodgeport
J head, the skirt is attached to the top of the quill.  On the M head,
it is free-floating between it's upper and lower limits.

Anyway, there is more:  The Bridgeport machines have a very elaborate scheme
to allow one lubricant port to drip lubricant from the top of the machine,
lubricating the driven belt pulley bearing, then the quill, then the top
spindle bearing, and finally the bottom spindle bearing.  From this point,
the spindle oil leaks out around the spindle nose.  Very clever!

I'd suggest, before you try to design your own, you get someone to let
you watch them take apart a Bridgeport J head, so you can see how the whole
contraption works.  The drawings don't show many of the intricate details
of how lubrication works, finishes and clearances, etc.

Another thought, why BUILD a VERY complicated and precise mechanism?
Find a used Bridgeport (or clone) mill head, and adapt it on your machine.
These do exist - I got a used J head that came off a giant gantry contouring
machine.  There are also Bridgeport dual and triple head machines which
are often converted back to single head for resale, and the extra heads
are sold separately.  Look around.

						Jon



From bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu Tue Dec 17 13:54:54 EST 1996
Article: 42930 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.ecn.uoknor.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!sdcc12.ucsd.edu!sgva-serv1!bkolodzi
From: bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu (The Hurdy Gurdy Man)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pride in American machines?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 06:46:28 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego
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NNTP-Posting-Host: sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I just wanted to run this by you folks, see what you thought.

I recently decided to purchase a Sherline lathe, but in the search for what
I wanted to finally buy I went to a local machine dealer to ask a few
questions on the subject of small lathes.  The one he pointed me towards
was the Emco-Meier Compact 5, which admittedly seemed like a nice enough
lathe (although, I'd like to hear some opinions about it, if anyone
would care to post them).  The comment the man at the shop made to conclude
his little sales pitch was something to the effect of:

"It's much better than that Sherline lathe because it's made in Austria."

Now, to me, being still somewhat proud of American and lots of American 
workmanship, not to mention never having heard a bad thing about Sherline,
this statement bothered me.  In my head it translated to:

"Let's face it, American equipment sucks, no matter how many good stories
you've heard about it.  You're better off paying three times as much for
an imported model."

I'm sure the Austrians make a good machine, but still, this statement
bothered me.  What I'm wondering is, have other people out there
encountered lots of problems with American-made equipment?  Is my 
general pride and trust in USA-made stuff just a naive mistake?

								Bryan


---
Bryan Kolodziej                 University of California, San Diego
Visual Arts/Computer Media      http://sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu/~bkolodzi


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 13:54:55 EST 1996
Article: 42931 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 4 Dec 1996 23:01:45 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <585hf9$4us@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <32a5c76a.859422075@news.islandnet.com> psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
>paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth) wrote:
>
>>And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
>>is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
>>that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
>>grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.
>>One of the illustrations shows it being used to sharpen the flutes on
>>an end mill.
>
>If you ever find it I wouldn't mind knowing which PIM it's in so I can
>find it in the library.
>
>Jens

I found it in MetalWorking Book Two which covers the years 1990-1991.  The
article was called 'A Small Tool and Cutter Grinder" by Glenn L Wilson.
It's a nice project - there's around 50 some odd parts and three pages
of drawings.  The air spindle needs be be finished to within +.0002/-.0000.
His setup for sharpening end mill flutes is pretty slick.  All in all, a good
winter's (or two) project.


-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 13:54:57 EST 1996
Article: 42932 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: books to learn from
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 07:22:38 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32a677f9.172256550@news.pacbell.net>
References: <1996Nov22.233828.2923@ole.cdac.com> <5840fl$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

>In article <1996Nov22.233828.2923@ole.cdac.com>, grant@cdac.com says...
>>2. "American Machinists Handbook" Colvin & Stanley
>
>I've been looking for this for a LONG time, ever since I saw one
>at a friends house ages ago...
>
>Anyone have an address for these guys?
>
Try Lindsay. He's published a lot of the Colvin and Stanley reprints.

>I am sure this is information of common interest to a great many of
>the other lurkers out there, so don't bother to e-mail, just 
>go ahead and post... :^) :^) :^)
>                                                  --Glenn
>

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:54:58 EST 1996
Article: 42933 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
From: Charles Lamont <Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: test, pls ignore
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 20:56:07 +0000
Organization: What's that?
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <0Eb4yHAnVepyEw+A@abdab.demon.co.uk>
References: <32A40353.8E7@nl.compuware.com>
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C++ Freak writes
>picture:
>
>[ A MIME image / jpeg part was included here. ]
>
Er, no actually, I am not going to ignore people who post binaries to
this group.  
-- 
Charles



From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Tue Dec 17 13:54:59 EST 1996
Article: 42934 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: nugget.prospect.anprod.csiro.au
Message-ID: <E1xJCG.334@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>
Sender: news@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU
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References: <E1uLBJ.2zz@kepler-eng.com> <E1vx1t.BMF@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <32A57DE6.2127@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 07:26:39 GMT
Lines: 28

In article <32A57DE6.2127@hotmail.com> nojunkmail@hotmail.com writes:
>Peter Wiley wrote:
>> 
>> In article <E1uLBJ.2zz@kepler-eng.com> russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler) writes:
>> >In article <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu>,
>> >Ron Eastes  <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU> wrote:
>> >>frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>> >>
>> >>Fitch,
>> >>
>> >>If it works, it's production. If it doesn't work, you are still testing.
>> >
>> >If you're not sure it works it's beta.
>> 
>> Which is when you ship it, to see if the suck^H^H^H^Hcustomers notice. If
>> they don't report any problems, it's production.
>> 
>> Peter Wiley
>
>Do you all work for Microsoft?

Nah, we're not *that* bad.

The rule those guys use is, if it *compiles*, then ship it. And sometimes
I doubt they even check that.

Peter Wiley



From rnichols@interaccess.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:00 EST 1996
Article: 42935 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 04:23:08 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 31
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <E1xAuL.DyD.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: d199.w.interaccess.com
X-Guaranteed-Fresh-Until: Mon, Dec 09 1996

In article <felice.359.32A4A9D4@pioneer.net>,
Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter <felice@pioneer.net> wrote:
:Since everyone seems to agree that the milling column is only good for small 
:work, has anyone used the sherline milling machine, as a lathe, by making a 
:toolpost which sits on the table, and turning the head horizontal? It seems 
:large wheels and short turnings could be accomplished, although the lack of 
:the tailstock would be limiting. 

Yes, I've done that, ... once.  It works for simple turning, and can
even handle some parts too large for the swing of the lathe.  Without
the horizontal milling base (which I do have) you've got a very limited
useful longitudinal feed.  Of course the lack of a tailstock is going to
limit the length of what you can turn anyway.  You can use almost
anything for a tool holder since you have the extra degree of freedom of
cranking the head up and down.  (I was using a Unimat SL1000 tool holder
clamped in the milling vise.  It was adequate for aluminum.)

The big problems are (a) the reaction from the tool may put stresses
on the mill table that it wasn't intended to handle, and (b) no lathe
accessory other than a chuck is going to be readily useful without a
lot of assistance from Mssrs. Rube & Goldberg.

I think that milling in the lathe, as long as you can live within the
size and rigidity limits, would work out better than the other way
around.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:01 EST 1996
Article: 42936 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.webspan.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: home shop construction tips
Message-ID: <1996Dec2.163646.1025@flying-disk.com>
Date: 2 Dec 96 16:36:46 PDT
References: <3295F559.186D@actcom.co.il>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 16

In article <3295F559.186D@actcom.co.il>, 
yudi <daron@actcom.co.il> writes:

> As i am setting  my new homeshop in a garage,
> i will be happy to get some advice or layout plans,
> also on must-to-have tools.

Install the electrical outlets high enough so that you can
lean a full sheet of plywood against the wall and still use
the outlets.   Just out of curiosity, what is the size of
a metric sheet of plywood?   Here, they are 48" x 96".

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:55:02 EST 1996
Article: 42937 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: auctions (was: Re: Atlas Horiziontal Mill, but I neeeed it.)
Date: 29 Nov 1996 06:07:59 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <57lujv$nmn@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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: pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

: >Didja buy anything. My wife Peggy insists on holding the bid-card when I
: >go to auctions and I am not allowed to go alone. Can't be trusted she says
: >but I am not sure why.

I've been to several auctions in the area.  One, I wanted to take my kids
to see the last (I think) rust belt factory in the St. Louis area, but
we had a few sick, and didn't make it.  I went to the preview, and I've
never seen so many old (1930 - 1950's) punch presses, press brakes, shears,
etc. in my life.  about 2 acres of them!  That was National Vendors, this
spring.  Very little I was interested in, there.  Only 2 lathes in the
whole place, about 4 mills.  Others, I kept my hands in my pockets, and
my jaw was hanging slack!  20 Year old Kurt vises with holes drilled all
over them going for $400.  I couldn't believe it.  Same auction, a 1 year
old Mazak VMC with the latest 32-bit control went for $90,000, and an older
Japanese VMC about the size of a 2 family flat went for $30,000!  I couldn't
believe that.  The proud new owners were discussing how many walls the
riggers would have to knock down to get it into their shop!  (That was
'Metal Tech', a division of Missouri Research Corp., about 1993.)
I went to 4 auctions at McDonnell-Douglas, and only bought 1 lot at the
last one, nothing at the earlier ones.  Everything machine-tool related
went SO HIGH!  Now, some of the stuff was definitely going below what
McD paid for it, but who could need 50 pallets of 3" dia end mills?
Oh, yeah, at the end of an earlier auction, the last room had electronic
gear in it, and much of it was custom made gear.  No one wanted to bid,
and so the auctioneer said "everything in the room, one lot, who'll give
me $100".  I really didn't know about anything real exciting in the room,
I'd seen it the day before, and let one bidder get the whole room for
$100.  Then, walking out, I spotted a nearly new, Tektronix 9100-series
logic analyzer, that was probably worth $10,000 on the USED market.  I
nearly died!  That DEFINITELY hadn't been there the day before! ARRRGH!
It was interesting, that's for sure.
						Jon



From mark@mortonmachinery.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:03 EST 1996
Article: 42938 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!svr1.pdx.gstis.net!nuhou.aloha.net!newshub.cts.com!atmnet.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: mark@mortonmachinery.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: $25 Certified Equipment Appraisals!
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:36:25 GMT
Organization: Morton Machinery Company of Los Angeles
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dd21-095.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

Our company is fully certified to Level II by AMEA to conduct certified equipment appraisals.
We are offering  Desk Top Opinions for $25.00 through our web site.

See it at www.mortonmachinery.com  or contact me direct at mark@mortonmachinery.com

-- Mark Rogo , President, Morton Machinery Company, Los Angeles, California


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:04 EST 1996
Article: 42939 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!140.174.229.1!sun.sirius.com!ppp080-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Timer question
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 00:25:35 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 20
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In article <32A4C11B.5A51@worldnet.att.net>, randd@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> I need a timer to control my 2 1/2 gallon rock tumbler which I use for
> silica slurry for ceramic shell mold building.  Uses 1/3 horse motor, 7
> amps @ 115 volt.  Motor rated contacts would be a plus, but I have a
> small starter which I could use with a relay from timer.  Need 4 to 6
> cycles per hour with adjustment for on time. I currently run the motor
> 24 hours and this is no doubt a waste of power. I would like something
> cheap of course!  Any Ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Cox

A cmos version of a 555 timer would make a good "heart" for your system,
it *would* need a relay -preferably solid state-- I bet all could be
gotten at Radio Shack.

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From steves@emailaddress.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:05 EST 1996
Article: 42940 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.mnsinc.com!usenet
From: "Steve Stallings" <steves@emailaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: books to learn from - where to buy "Machinery's Handbook"
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:37:09 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
Lines: 20
Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <01bbe26c$dcb07dc0$015cefce@scshome>
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> 
>"Machinery's Handbook" 
> 
> I've also seen this recommended in sci.eng.mech, again, an
> address, please?
> 
> Either that. or the address of a shop in Greater Boston where I
> might find either (or even both)?
> 

Bought my copy of Machinery's Handbook 25th edition off the shelf
at the local Border's Book store in Washington, DC area at the
$75 list price. If you don't feel the need to see one first, MSC 
has them on sale for $59.95 plus shipping, call 800-645-7270. 
Item # was 09599010.

Steve Stallings



From MVDS43A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:07 EST 1996
Article: 42941 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.207.105.50!prodigy.com!usenet
From: MVDS43A@prodigy.com (Mr. Randal K. Sparks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shop-Task opinions wanted
Date: 29 Nov 1996 07:12:22 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company 1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 10
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X-Newsreader: BBUsenet Version 1.0

   I am considering purchase of a home use multi-machine.  I have some
info on Shop-Task, 17-20 XMTC, and it seems, on paper, to fit my needs.
Does anyone have practical experience with this or other Shop-Task
machines.  What about overall quality?  Can one produce .001" tolerance
work on them?  Will they last?  etc.

Thanks,
Randy Sparks
mvds43a@prodigy.com



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:08 EST 1996
Article: 42942 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-19.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Free Milling Machine
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 08:23:40 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <329e8d96.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <329c412c.2112577@news.mulberry.com> <57ij0m$5a0@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
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mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) wrote:

> I have a Garvin No. 2 universal horizontal mill that I will gladly
>give away to a good home. It is a well made older machine. It is still
>in decent shape. The machine is quite heavy (2500 lbs at a guess)
>It needs some reassembly, but is fairly complete.
>Sorry Peter and others not in driving distance to Long Island, New York
>- I will not ship this machine any where. Come and get it, I'll load it
>for you.
>The machine will be scrapped if nobody expresses an interest in it by
>monday, Dec. 2nd. I hope someone will save this machine from the scrap
>heap.
>Happy Thanksgiving!
>Dave Ficken
>Meridian Machinery
>http://hre.com/meridian

Not only do we in CA have to live with earthquakes, fires,
mudslides, double negative initive processes, and dollars
built more for speed than endurance, we are outside the
chosen area for free machinery!  <grin>

Nuts!  

Fitch
Scotty, can you beam that thing ...





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:09 EST 1996
Article: 42943 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chainsaw blade oil.
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 08:25:05 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <329e8df8.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <01bbdcc6$82e67fc0$5f263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <329d5f83.308540748@news.islandnet.com> <57l05d$fs5@news0-alterdial.uu.net>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mournblade.ptw.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis) wrote:

>In article <329d5f83.308540748@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
>-> "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com> wrote:
>-> >I ran across chainsaw blade oil in a store recently.  I was wondering if
>-> >this is anything like "way oil" that is used on lathe ways and mill table
>-> >dovetails.  Or, could this be used as a substitute?  

>-> <Horrified mode on>
>-> NOOOO
>-> <Horrified mode off>

>sad to hear this... i have been using it for the last year or so on
>the recomendation of an engineer-machinist friend whose credibility i
>had yet no reason to doubt.  please amplify on the differences.

>-- 
>  pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
>investigate,impeach,imprison,inter;socialism destroys,defund the left
>  "more laws... we can't control enough citizens without more laws"
>                         -liberal/socialist/communist mantra

Generally I try to use a relatively light way oil to keep it
>from  causing the mill table to be jacked up and then sink
down as the oil warms up and thins out.  The mill has a
manual lubricator pump on it.  I have gone through about a
gallon of the stuff in 5 years.  'bout ready to buy some
more.  I think chain saw oil would really mess it up.  It
seems to be awfly thick and gooey.

I use the same light way oil on the lathe ways for the same
reason.  I wouldn't like to have my chips stuck to the ways
by the chainsaw oil I've used.  

I use spindle oil for all the rotating parts (spindle, idler
gears, QC gear box, cross slide and compount nuts, carriage
rotating parts and feed screw).

In my experience, a gallon of way lube or spindle oil, is
not really close to a life time supply.  

Fitch





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:10 EST 1996
Article: 42944 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Learn something new every project
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 08:26:48 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <329e8e58.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <329CF523.2781E494@sweng.stortek.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: mournblade.ptw.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Steve Hardy <hardy@sweng.stortek.com> wrote:

<SNIP>

>You learn a whole bunch of things:  in this project the following
>spring to mind:

>	How to solder stainless steel

>	How to bend plastic using a heat gun

>	How to adjust the lathe headstock alignment

>	How to machine the cross-slide dovetail with a shaper

>	How to use the travelling steady to machine a long thin
>	shaft, perfectly balanced and concentric.

>	How to gracefully maneuver large shaper vices in mid-air.

<SNIP>

Reading this I learned that the old law, before you can do
anything, you must first do something else, isn't limited to
my shop, or even this continent.  <grin>

<SNIP>

>Anyhow, I digress from the praise of the shaper.  It is a truly
>wonderful machine but it does require you to check seventy times
>seven times before THE LEVER is pulled.

Even on a small one with a vise that only weighs maybe 10
pounds.  But they will get things flat.  And they can cut
keyways inside holes, and ...

Fitch



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:12 EST 1996
Article: 42945 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Seeking small parts suppliers
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 14:16:56 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <3298C958.7DE5@abrasha.com>
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George Edwards wrote:
> 
> Tom wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for suppliers of small parts such as PIC Design and Stock Drive
> > Products that might be a bit lower cost.  Does anyone know of any?  With all
> > these foreign suppliers of machine tools, there must be a cheap supplier of
> > small parts...
> >
> > Thanks, Tom
> Try Small Parts Inc.
> 13980 N.W. 58th Court
> P.O. Box 4650
> Miami Lakes, FL  33014-0650
> Tel:  305-557-8222
> Fax:  1-800-423-9009
> 
> George


Small has a great selection of small parts, but they are definitely not cheap.  

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:14 EST 1996
Article: 42946 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: turning HRS
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 22:50:14 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <329D3626.EE@abrasha.com>
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To: gunner312@aol.com

gunner312@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Look in the Machinery Handbook, Find the correct Speed to cut 1040 grade,
> use that speed,  radius your dead-sharp tool abour 1/32 and have lots of
> top rake.  grind a chip breaker.  Compute feed as a function of nose
> radius, 1/2 the radius per rev is a good place to start.  Depth of cut is
> whatever your machine can handle but a medium to heavy cut works best.   I
> use a program called Mr. Machinist to compute speed & feed.  

Where can I find out more about this program "Mr. Machinist"?  Who sells it, and how 
much is it.  DOS, Windows or Mac OS?

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From MVDS43A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:15 EST 1996
Article: 42947 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: MVDS43A@prodigy.com (Mr. Randal K. Sparks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: First lathe.
Date: 29 Nov 1996 07:23:56 GMT
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Subject: Re: First lathe.

   I am also interested in getting my first home use machine tool.  So
far, the Shop Task brochure is the only one I have received, and the
tool looked pretty good on paper.  As far as the "airspace" in the mill
is concerned,  even the FAQ website for this newsgroup considers space
to be an advantage.  More room for bigger parts.  Shop Task provides an
extension tool (ST-16) which is an MT3 to MT3 adapter that extends the
tool reach by about 6".  It sells for 16.95
   Is your Shop Task the 17-20 XMTC model?  Does it have quality fit
and finish?  Are there any runout or off-axis problems with the mill or
lathe spindles?  Are the indicators graduated in .001" and are they
accurate?  What about threading ability.  Is there an effective way
(?half-nut system?) to stop threading automatically?
    In other words, if you could ignore or solve your problems with the
mill, do you think the rest of the machine is well constructed and
capable of producing .001" tolerance parts?
     Does anyone else have any experience with Shop Task?

Randy Sparks
mvds43a@prodigy.com



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:16 EST 1996
Article: 42948 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT DOES HSM STAND FOR?
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 22:43:22 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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pdnrd@aol.com wrote:
> 
> IT'S OBVIOUSLY SOME KIND OF MAGAZINE,
> I WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT THEM IF SOMEONE HAS THEIR PHONE#
> SOUNDS LIK E A GOOD MAG.
> THANKS FOR READING, HAVE A GREAT DAY!
> PAUL NORDHAUGEN


Oh great, all we need around here is another screamer

HSM stands for Horny Sado-Masochist

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 13:55:17 EST 1996
Article: 42949 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: RAIL ROAD TRACK AS ANVILS
Date: 2 Dec 1996 19:36:04 -0500
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <57vslkINNd8n@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

In rec.crafts.metalworking, rryan@ix.netcom.com (Rob Ryan) writes:
<snipped>
>A615: New Billet Steel
>A616: Rail Steel (Reclaimed from rails)
>A617: Axle Steel (Reclaimed from axles)
>A706: Weldable Steel
<snipped>
Something that I had forgotten t mention in my previous post(s)
regarding the flame cut end of the rail was that there also
appeared to some annealing of the rail for two or three inches
>from  the end that was flame cut.  This is only an observation
that the milling seemed easier near the end that had been heated.
A relative of mine knew something of the railroad industry and
said that rail was heat treated; I assume hardened to some degree.

Anyway the rail that I had was very awkwardly flame cut judging
>from  its appearance and I am sure much more heat was applied than
would be necessary with proper equipment and knowledge.
So the result with flame cut rail is that within approximately
1/2 inch of the cut the rail may be too hard to saw or mill and
then further away from that it may have lost some of its heat treat
properties.  It still seems like a very nice surface to hammer
on though and the ring is almost too much to bear.

Ken
Bethesda, MD


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:18 EST 1996
Article: 42950 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:15:22 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>On 2 Dec 1996 02:02:40 GMT, jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey) wrote:

>>Fitch:
>>
>>I don't make the rules, I just abide by them. To do otherwise is to
>>send work to your competitors. Happily, most people are NOT like
>>Ferrarri owners and therefore can have exceptional work done at
>>realistic prices. However, if a special tool is needed for their job,
>>they pay for it and DO NOT receive it. If however, they need another
>>part made at a later date, they are only charged for the actual work
>>and not the tool ( we don't double bill )
>>
>>As someone said, "That's the way it works Kid Speed costs money, how
>>fast can you afford to go"?

>I can attest to this being standard practice.  We often have parts
>quoted or fabricated on the outside, and, without exception, the
>supplier will always add for special tooling and will not return said
>tooling.  BUT, when or if they get a repeat job, there is no tooling
>charge.

>In other words, no, Jim ain't ripping anyone off.

>Scott Logan
>ssl@loganact.com
>www.loganact.com

Scott, I know he isn't.  (Jim, I know you aren't.)

Was a poor attempt at humor, I thought the chicken coop and
eggs were a dead giveaway.  Shoulda knowed better.  With my
dry sense of humor, I got to remember to stick in the
<BWGs>.

Fitch
They ought to see what we do in Aerosapce for special
tooling, then again, no certified taxpayer should know that,
but I *am* a certified taxpayer, and I know ..... we do
deliver it though, or make them *pay* to store it (ha!
didn't think of that didja, huh!?!  still teach a few tricks
to these kids by golly  ...)  .... where *is* the flash
light .....  <G> <G> <BWG>  .... <G?>  ?



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:20 EST 1996
Article: 42951 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:16:36 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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edk4@aol.com wrote:

>I have dealt with more than a half dozen suppliers in the past 6 months
>and, in my opinion, none of them "can hold a candle to MSC" (what does
>that mean, anyway?).

>I've ordered from Rutland, Travers, Harbor Tool, Wholesale Tool, Grand
>Tool, ENCO and MSC. Rutland's order took 6 days, they overcharged me and
>sent me an incorrect item. The replacement item took another 4 days and,
>despite their assurance, I have never been credited for the overcharge.
>Travers' order took 7 days. Harbor Tool "lost" my order. Wholesale and
>Grand took 5 days each. ENCO - what more can be said about ENCO! They had
>a 3/8" x 16 plug tap on back order for 14 months (that is not a mistake).
>Although, to be fair, I finally did get it.

>MSC, on the other hand, has unfailingly delivered within 24 hours - if I
>ordered before 4PM, and within 48 hours if I ordered later than that. They
>have lowered prices for me and, in one instance when I thought I had been
>double billed for shipping, called to discuss it with me, and promptly
>credited my account - no arguement, a very pleasant experience.

>As Jim says, when you need it, you need it. MSC 'delivers' - what they
>promise and when they promise. That's worth just about *everything* to me,
>folks. Plus, in my experience, MSC doesn't sell 'junk' (at least not
>without properly warning you about it first).

>------------------
>Ed Kingsley

That is a testimonial and a half.  Now if I could just
remember where I wrote down their 800 number to get a
catalog ...

Fitch
Holding his flash light to ward off scfms and ENCOs and
Harbor Freights and ..... * Depots ... 







From jalling@cybernet.dk Tue Dec 17 13:55:21 EST 1996
Article: 42952 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jalling@cybernet.dk (niels jalling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: PotMetal ?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:42:32 -0500
Message-ID: <e6weo0Qw0tsA071yn@cybernet.dk>
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What exactly is PotMetal ??

Well I know this question is trivia for most readers of this newsgroup, but on this 
side of the pond in little Denmark we may have different "nicknames"/tradenames.

The grey/white metal I know as Potmetal is much softer than Aluminium. 

The reason for asking the question is: I am started on the Gingery Lathe. After two 
months of studying, trials and errors the project is now on the way. I have molded 
the bases, the bed and the carriage. The next parts for the carriage assembly is in 
the modelmaking stage. 

On p 45 in the Lathe book Dave says that Potmetal is stronger than Al for the handles, 
and later on in the description of the splitnut, potmetal is again the preferred material.

/Niels


From wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:55:22 EST 1996
Article: 42953 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wayne@fdos.demon.co.uk (wayne weedon)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rollerblade bearings.
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 23:16:30 GMT
Organization: Fdos Design
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <849568590snz@fdos.demon.co.uk>
References: <01bbde76$4a4eb540$59263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <57pho4$eon@herald.concentric.net> <ginger.576.002DA6F9@pcm.ultranet.com>
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In article <ginger.576.002DA6F9@pcm.ultranet.com>
           ginger@pcm.ultranet.com "Ron Ginger" writes:

> I believe ball bearings are just about the cheapest commercial item you can 
> buy- If you think of the quality and difficulty of manufacture. Last time I 
> bought a set, for my radial arm saw I think, they were about US$6 each, and 
> this was for a high quality brand. 

I agree.  In the UK it's common for the trade to get 70%+ discounts at
bearing suppliers even on a 1 off purchase.

Also it's also best to shop around.  A friend wanted new bearings for
his Bridgeport mills spindle.  He wanted a matched pair, I think he got
three quotes ranging from over 200 pounds down to 90 for the pair.  He
took the 90 Pounds German made pair.

> Now, LINEAR bearings is a big difference.!

So are precision swiss bearings we buy large quatities of RMB1505
bearings 5/32" 3/64" x 3/32" in ABEC5 grade and they are not cheap. If
anyone is interested they contain 7 x 0.019" balls

-- 
wayne weedon



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:23 EST 1996
Article: 42954 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4.2 Lbs H20 from 80 to 350F?
Date: 3 Dec 1996 15:51:01 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: soltherm@chatlink.com

Yep, the phase change takes a *lot* of energy.  But
prior to the phase change, it's a straight 1 btu per
degree (or pretty close), so you'd save 200-80 = 120 btu
per pound by preheating.

The energy sucked up by the phase change was described
by Joseph Black, an 18th-century (I think) Scottish 
clergyman, who used the term "latent heat."

Are you sure that 1200 btu figure is correct?  That
sounds high to me.  I thought it was more like 144 btu,
but perhaps I'm confusing it with the btu in the 
ice/water phase change.




From rebeccas@fay.infi.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:24 EST 1996
Article: 42955 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rebeccas@fay.infi.net (Rebecca or Jim Schwitters)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need help grinding threads
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 04:08:56 GMT
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I am planning to make new cross slide and top slide screws for a lathe
I'm reconditioning.  I would like them ground rather than cut.  Has
anyone had experience doing such a thing? 
I don't know enough about grinding threads to know all the right
questions to ask, but the following come to mind.   What kind of
grinding wheel is suitable?  What are the tricks to dressing it?  How
much can be safely ground in a single pass?  Can it be ground without
coolant?   I have a decent quallity Dumore toolpost grinder.
Since this is not a production operation, I would guess that my best
bet is to remove the bulk of the material with normal thread cutting
leaving just enough to clean up by grinding.  My toolpost grinder does
not have the ability to be "tilted" to correspond to the thread angle
but I could probably rig something up or alternately compensate by
adjusting the wheel profile.
The leadscrews in question are 3/8" x 10 Acme about 8" long.  Any
thoughts or comments will be appreciated.

TIA
Jim Schwitters




From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:25 EST 1996
Article: 42956 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:02:25 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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phony wrote:
> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>Why did they ever do it that way?
>
Cooling. The lubricants of the time were lousy. Spinning the cylinders was
an 'elegant' solution.

--RC


From Metaliks@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:26 EST 1996
Article: 42957 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Glen Gardner <Metaliks@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 19:36:49 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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Dear Lindsay,
               The company listed below is a great source of old 
re-prints. Most are cheap and they do have a bunch on 
blacksmithing. As to buliding a forge first decide if you want to 
burn coal (bituminous) natural charcoal(not brickets) is also a good 
fuel, or whether you want to build a gas forge that runs on propane. 
Both have advantages and disadvantages.  Neither is terribly 
difficult to put together. Do check the Artist Blacksmith Assc. of 
North America(ABANA) web site: 

http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/AM_res.html 
they might have some plan sheets.
 Check this other one too:
http://sunsite.unc.edu/abana/mainindex.html

Good luck, write me if you want to chat about this some more.
    Glen Gardner  Pres. Pittsburgh Metals Society






From: Lindsay Publications PO Box 538 Bradley,IL 60915  USA
          Ph# 815/935-5353
Send them a buck or two and ask for their catalogs,they have 3 
"Metalworking" "Tecnical" and "Electronics" GET THEM! You will 
love them


From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 13:55:27 EST 1996
Article: 42958 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Taig notes
Date: 5 Dec 1996 14:16:30 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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I've had my Taig lathe for a couple of weeks now, and I'm having a
*lot* of fun with it...

It's simpler and cruder than the Sherline, and the 1/10th HP motor 
they threw in is not as zippy as the speed-controlled 1/4HP DC motor of the
Sherline, and it lacks the feedscrew and calibrated feed...but for half the 
price it's pretty darn good.  I've been spending a few evening sessions
aquainting myself with the lath and making accessories. 

First thing I made was a plastic shield that fits between the motor and the
lathe; don't want any chips flying in there. Next step was to modify a
blank mandrel to hold a 3/8" mill. I bored it out to 3" and added a setscrew.
Simple, and cheap. The blanks are $2.70 each; I've just ordered another 3
for other projects, including a slitting saw arbor.

Next will be a tool holder for 1/4" round tools, mainly for boring. Should
be easy. Then I'm going to see if I can come up with a way to make a 
flycutter from a blank mandrel.

--mike


From Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no Tue Dec 17 13:55:28 EST 1996
Article: 42959 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Knut.Pedersen@imp.uib.no (Knut Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Timer question
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 11:00:29 GMT
Organization: University of Bergen
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <Knut.Pedersen.136.849783629@imp.uib.no>
References: <32A4C11B.5A51@worldnet.att.net> <alshinn-0512960025350001@ppp080-sf2.sirius.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dronning.im.uib.no

In article <alshinn-0512960025350001@ppp080-sf2.sirius.com> alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) writes:
>From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
>Subject: Re: Timer question
>Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 00:25:35 -0800
>In article <32A4C11B.5A51@worldnet.att.net>, randd@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
>> I need a timer to control my 2 1/2 gallon rock tumbler which I use for
>> silica slurry for ceramic shell mold building.  Uses 1/3 horse motor, 7
>> amps @ 115 volt.  Motor rated contacts would be a plus, but I have a
>> small starter which I could use with a relay from timer.  Need 4 to 6
>> cycles per hour with adjustment for on time. I currently run the motor
>> 24 hours and this is no doubt a waste of power. I would like something
>> cheap of course!  Any Ideas?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Randy Cox
>
>A cmos version of a 555 timer would make a good "heart" for your system,
>it *would* need a relay -preferably solid state-- I bet all could be
>gotten at Radio Shack.
>
>-- 
>Al Shinn   (Tinker)
>alshinn@ sirius.com
The 555 is sensitive to sparks on the 115 V power line, if the duty cyclus 
is finished, and you start an other motor the 555 will usualy start a new 
cycle. 
Knut


From medievalbk@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:30 EST 1996
Article: 42960 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: medievalbk@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 12:12:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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There's a company that recreates medieval/renaissance astrolabes, if that
would be of help, though I can't find the catalog at the moment.  $150 for
the least expensive if I remember.


From toby@Horton-Brasses.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:31 EST 1996
Article: 42961 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: toby@Horton-Brasses.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 07:32:02
Organization: Horton Brasses Inc.
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Sender: Horton@gnn.com (Barbara Rockwell) (from 18-74.client.gnn.com. 205.188.18.74)
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Interesting puzzle:

We drill thin (.016") curved, work-hardened yellow brass. Need a .219" 
hole. These are furniture backplates, so the hole needs to be bur free 
and the drill can't catch when it goes through, ripping the metal.

Currently we use bits specially sharpened so they cut out the edge 
cleanly. But the solution would seem to be a very high speed drill.

However, HS drillpresses all seem to have a chuck that only goes up to 
.16"

So. . . Is there a more robust HS drillpress available that we haven't 
been able to find? Special bits for thin (curved) stock?

Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves 
makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.

Thanks for any input,
T. Rockwell



From randymshr@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:32 EST 1996
Article: 42962 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randymshr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Sargent pliers
Date: 5 Dec 1996 14:40:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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If you don't mind digging around a little, try your local flea market or
antique mall. They show up regularly there, often in very good shape. I
have seen two or three sizes.

Happy hunting!

--Randy Mosher


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:34 EST 1996
Article: 42963 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:02:22 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Lindsay Rowlands wrote:
>I'm seeking help in locating some plans that I can use to get a 
>modest forge up and running. I want to heat mild steel and 'smith'
>it rather than make castings to build a 747 ;-)
>
Well, you can get the Lindsay catalog and order one of the many books
on blacksmithing. Almost all of them show you how to make a forge.

You can also check out the ABANA home page (whose URL has just gone away!)
for plans and tips.

Otherwise:
The forge is about the easiest thing to make in a blacksmith shop. I have
used everything from an old barbeque grill lined with river clay and blown
with a hair drier through a device made from a truck brake drum to forges
built up of brick. I've also used professionally built forges, including a
lovely little model with a water cooled tuyere developed by Jess Hawley.

Basically all you need is something to hold your fire (say a truck brake
drum), a source of air (an old hair drier or other blower), a method of
regulating the air flow (a simple flap that can completely or partially
close the blower output) and some sort of tubing (flexible metal like they
use in automotible exhuast systems works well). You need a hole in the
bottom of the fire pan to blow the air in (which the brake drum already
had) and there you are.

That's pretty basic, but it will get you started. As you read and learn
you'll see what features you need and how to add them. It really is about
that simple.

--RC


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:35 EST 1996
Article: 42964 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing (and service)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 07:20:55 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:
> 
> >Caveat Emptor  (see Fitch - I took lating too.)
> 
> >--
> >Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member
> 
> I am truly whelmed.  And it didn't melt in the September AJ
> heat.  Durable stuff that "lating".
> 
> Fitch
> 
> PS I didn't actually take Latin, just a lot of math and some
> Spanish in HS that I have forgotten most of.  But a number
> of NG folks did, they refreshed my divot filled metal media
> with what QED stood for, for which I thank them.

As you may have noted - I didn't take typing in HS.  They said I
needed studyhall worse than a typing class!!!  So I sat and read 
magazines.  Personally I think basic touch typing should be a
required subject - even if only for 6 weeks.  Now that were are 
a computer world, a semester wouldn't be wrong.  They have the
time now that shop classes are about gone.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:36 EST 1996
Article: 42965 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 09:44:06 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <584gga$gqt@chaplin.cs.ubc.ca>,
chernoff@cs.ubc.ca (William Chernoff) wrote:

> Anyone out there who has built the Quorn tool/cutter grinder,

In progress about 2/3 to 3/4 done about to start the spindle

> please give your opinion on 1) ease of construction
a chalenge even with the excelent book... but very satisfying to build

> 2) quality of castings/components

top notch so far... I have 3 casting yet to machine but the rest have been
fine no inclusions or hard spots.

> 3) completeness of kit

Not sure what you mean here I got mine from the maker in the uk with all
the castings, the grinding wheels and some belting the bearings and springs
for the spindle... I did not cart the Ground bar stock back I used O1 drill
rod bought here. and I use UNF and UNC hardware rather than the Whitworth
called for in the prints.
> 4) usefuklness when its all done.

Let you know about easter (seriously I have used a finished unit and I
can't think of anything you can't do on one... though I will not be using
it for sharpining drills... sort of over kill and a lot of set up work...
that why I bought a drill Doctor


>
> thanks in advance
> Bill Chernoff
>
> PS the price for the kit I've seen is about $US 500.

Bill I spent about $220 (to that add about $15 for the O1 drill rod another
$25 for misc steel if you have to buy it ... and about $100 for a speed
controled 1/3 hp motor (from Granger) for the kit 3 years ago from the
maker in england... shipping would be about $80 to 100 I think via UPS  (a
the Royal Mail is royal rip off... I sent 10 kilos via surface mail from
the UK to the US last month and it cost 42UKL! (about $72!) the same
package sent the other way by US mail is only about $32! You can ship a 1
cu meter Pallett via a frieight forwarder fromt eh UK to the US for about
$300 ... And I think the weight limit is over a ton per Cu meter... (note
that the required pallet takes up about 0.2 cu meters) so perhaps a bunch
of folks could get together an order here (yours is the 3 rd request for
info I have seen in a month here) and have them all sent on one pallet...
might be a large savings...unless that $500 US dealer price you mention
includes all the extra steel and nuts and bolts and a motor.

full details on the vendor are in apost last week here.. It had Quorn in
the title so a deja news search should turn it up.

~R



Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From eedvab@eed.ericsson.se Tue Dec 17 13:55:37 EST 1996
Article: 42966 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: eedvab@eed.ericsson.se (Vjekoslav Balas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tips on assembly of steel frame for best precision
Date: 5 Dec 1996 12:47:55 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Eurolab Deutschland GmbH
Lines: 36
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Reply-To: eedvab@eed.ericsson.se
NNTP-Posting-Host: aken72.eed.ericsson.se


Hi,
I want to put together a steel frame (made of U profile steel)
on 4 legs (eg. square steel profile) as support for some linear
guides. I'd like this to turn out as precise as possible (flatness
etc).

I know there are different gradings of steel (hardness etc)
eg. here in Germany St37 (construction steel), St 44.3, St59 etc.

My questions:
(a)Do the different gradings have some standard tolerance of
flatness e.g.. x mm/meter ?

(b)I have been told that one method of getting best flatness etc
is to bolt precisely machined steel plate (eg 15mm thick) to the frame (instead of
machining the whole frame once it is assembled (welded or similar).

I guess that the principle behind this is that you
assemble the frame such that the top surfaces of the 4 U frames
mate precisely. Thick machined steel plate eg. 15 mm thick is bolted on top
ensuring flatness/accuracy. Any inequality in flatness of bottom
surfaces of 4 U profiles + length of legs is then counteracted by
screw adjustable legs - is this the correct understanding of the
principle - any other tips ?

(c)I'm intersted if I can use a number of 
precisely machined plates per each U frame (just because
I can get them in shorter lengths more readily) - I guess
this depends on (a) and correspondingly what sort of "step"
I get at the plate to plate joint.

Thanks,
Vjeko




From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:38 EST 1996
Article: 42967 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: 5 Dec 1996 11:37:48 GMT
Organization: (missing)
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References: <19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com><19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com> <32a240a3.1406813@news.sprynet.com> <57s604$8vt@darla.visi.com><19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com><19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com> <32a240a3.1406813@news.sprynet.com> <57s604$8vt@darla.visi.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204114138.11754J-100000@reliant>
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In message <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204114138.11754J-100000@reliant> - "John
R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:42:24 -0600 writes:
:->
:->I have STOPPED buying from J&L because the shipping is more than
:->the tooling I buy from them.  I ALWAYS prepay.  Never got any
:->"free shipping" from J&L.
:->
:->John

I was charged shipping once, something like 7 dollars and change, so I
complained about it and got a refund. I don't know what you're doing
different than I...except maybe the 70lb limit?

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:40 EST 1996
Article: 42968 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 08:12:12 -0600
Organization: honeywell
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The Hurdy Gurdy Man wrote:
> 
> I just wanted to run this by you folks, see what you thought.
> 
> I recently decided to purchase a Sherline lathe, but in the search for what
> I wanted to finally buy I went to a local machine dealer to ask a few
> questions on the subject of small lathes.  The one he pointed me towards
> was the Emco-Meier Compact 5, which admittedly seemed like a nice enough
> lathe (although, I'd like to hear some opinions about it, if anyone
> would care to post them).  The comment the man at the shop made to conclude
> his little sales pitch was something to the effect of:
> 
> "It's much better than that Sherline lathe because it's made in Austria."
> 
> Now, to me, being still somewhat proud of American and lots of American
> workmanship, not to mention never having heard a bad thing about Sherline,
> this statement bothered me.  In my head it translated to:
> 
> "Let's face it, American equipment sucks, no matter how many good stories
> you've heard about it.  You're better off paying three times as much for
> an imported model."
> 
> I'm sure the Austrians make a good machine, but still, this statement
> bothered me.  What I'm wondering is, have other people out there
> encountered lots of problems with American-made equipment?  Is my
> general pride and trust in USA-made stuff just a naive mistake?
> 
>                                                                 Bryan
> 
> ---
> Bryan Kolodziej                 University of California, San Diego
> Visual Arts/Computer Media      http://sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu/~bkolodzi

Bryan, when I got my Sherline, I actually felt very proud to see that Americans CAN 
produce quality products.  Compared to some other junk I have seen, the Sherline is 
topnotch.  I assume new labor saving technologies like CNC may let American manufacturers 
compete again.  However they do it, Sherline is top quality in my opinion.
-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis (A satisfied Sherline owner)


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:55:41 EST 1996
Article: 42969 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 08:12:50 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <jesw-0512960812500001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32a1e89d.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32a35557.633613701@news.islandnet.com> <32a235c3.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <57u1dg$bom@ds2.acs.ucalgary.ca> <32a342b7.694380469@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <32a342b7.694380469@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:

> gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca (Gloria Edith Keays) wrote:
> 
> >I'm taking a course in it right now... AARRGHHH!
> 
> My condolences
> 
At least you can appreciate the graffiti incident in Life of Brian.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Tue Dec 17 13:55:42 EST 1996
Article: 42970 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!EU.net!sun4nl!esatst!charles
From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Message-ID: <E1y0Gs.GJ6@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 13:36:27 GMT
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com> <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32A448C5.3A02@spiff.hr.att.com>
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 30

In article <32A448C5.3A02@spiff.hr.att.com>,
Kevin Meier  <kbm@spiff.hr.att.com> wrote:
>Charles Stroom wrote:
>> 
>> Would somebody be so kind to point to somewhere where I can see
>> a picture/drawing of an "Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong gib-type tool
>> post".
>> Thanks,
>> 
>
>If you don't have an aversion to downloading 2Mb movies, there is
>a fairly good .mpg of one of these posts being installed on a lathe
>and a tool-holder installed on the post at:
>
>  http://www.nmis.org/EducationTraining/machineshop/05/l_toolpost.mpg
>
>But, again, this is 2 Megabytes, so don't expect it to pop right up
>unless you have a blindingly fast link.
>
>	Kevin Meier

like a charm!  40 secs to download, a good video and thanks for the
very useful http address.  It is really great.


-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From geotek@accesscomm.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:43 EST 1996
Article: 42971 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 13:36:37 GMT
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
Lines: 14
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

I have a coax type indicator but I really don't like it that much.
I'd rather use a test indicator in a Zero-It type of holder.  This is
much more accurate because the measurement more direct.  It can never
be as accurate as a test indicator because of the reference surfaces
and linkages required.  The coax device also takes longer to set-up
and requires alot of spindle to workpiece clearance. Using a longer
feeler arm divides the sensitivity and if the surface is even a little
rough, forget it.  Using a test indicator and dividing the error will
put you on center much faster and more accurately.
 
George Carlson   KC5RCC
Geotek Design Services
geotek@accesscomm.net



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:55:44 EST 1996
Article: 42972 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 08:10:36 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961205080923.12348B-100000@reliant>
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Perhaps, if your lathe was under $200.00 it is not stiff enough to
take advantage of the tremendous stiffness offered by the piston
type tool post.  If your lathe is rigid enough that the improved
holding and positioning of the cutting edge will improve your work,
it is definately worth it.

John


On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Bob Neidorff wrote:

> In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204111650.11754G-100000@reliant> you wrote:
> 
> : In the December MSC sales catalog.  They have their Phase I Piston
> : tool post sets on sale about 30% off the normal price.  
> 
> Very tempting.  Have you used the Phase I tool post set?
> The price they ask is close to what I paid for my lathe,
> but perhaps it is really worth it.
> 
> Thanks for any comments.
> --
> Bob Neidorff; Unitrode Corporation  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
> 7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
> Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-429-8564
> 
> 


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:55:45 EST 1996
Article: 42973 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 08:56:32 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <jesw-0512960856320001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <jesw-0212961418300001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <19961203072600.CAA03851@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> Using 50lbs does not cut it when bead blasting aluminum. The beads are
> round and are not intended to remove metal. I have toi use 90psi otherwise
> it takes forever to do large surfaces evenly. At 90psi my compressor runs
> out of puff very quickly.
> 
> I am not sure I like the idea of increasing the pully size until the
> overload kicks out. It sounds a little too heavy duty for me. 

The overload has never kicked out in 20 years of use. The idea was to find
the manufacturer's maximum allowable current rating and size the pulleys
to get near it but only for short intervals. 

A car starter motor is an extreme example of using the mass of metal to
absorb the heat from a brief overload. Those little things can put out
about 5HP for maybe 30 seconds, yet they are smaller than regular 1/4 HP
motors.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:46 EST 1996
Article: 42974 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!165.87.194.248!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net!not-for-mail
From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plasma cutting
Date: 5 Dec 1996 14:41:18 GMT
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <586mue$1ugm$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
References: <jjhenry-0412961647280001@henry.med.uiuc.edu>
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In <jjhenry-0412961647280001@henry.med.uiuc.edu>, jjhenry@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Jon Henry) writes:
>Can anyone provide me with some info on the various plasma cutting torches
>available today.  What are the advantages and disadvatages of the large
>older style technology vs. inverter based machines?  I have heard lots of
>bad things about the quality and longevity of inverter based torches.  We
>have been looking at the Lincoln Pro Cut 60, which appears to be large
>sturdy machine.  Portability is not a concern here.  Anyone familiar with
>their quality or that of others?  Ultimately we would like to get
>something that can cut 1/2" steel and 1/4"aluminum plate, with a high duty
>cycle, and will stand up for many years.
>
>Thanks for your attention and any input you might have.

There have been some recent appends on this topic....some as late as last week.

When I started looking for a good plasma cutter that could truely cut 3/4", I
sytarted talking to the welding shops and see what was most popular. I found
that most of the shops used either HyperTherm or Thermal Dynamics. When asked
about Miller or Lincoln, their comments were "Lincold and Miller make excellent
welding equip, but go with a company dedicated to plasma cutting" . I opted
for the HyperTherm MAX800. It cost me around $2300, AND truely cuts 3/4" steel
plate. For production, it cuts 1/2" pretty fast. I've cut 1/2" aluminum as well.
It is an invertor style, uses 70psi of clean shop air and mine came with the
50ft of hose option (25ft std). The only other experience I've had, is with a 
little 10amp Miller plasma cutter good for car body work. It was ok, but not
as well built as my HyperTherm.

Randy
randyr@ibm.net


From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:48 EST 1996
Article: 42975 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 5 Dec 1996 14:56:47 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
Lines: 28
Sender: filipg@paranoia.com
Message-ID: <586nrf$1gm@villa.fc.net>
References: <19961129160500.LAA07488@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961130032000.WAA17871@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57pi7j$feb@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <jriser-3011961137280001@usr1ip49.azstarnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: primus.paranoia.com
Summary: anyone try

In Article <jriser-3011961137280001@usr1ip49.azstarnet.com>, through puissant locution, jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser) soliloquized:
>In article <57pi7j$feb@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert Bickers
><r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>> The only reason I know to cool compressed air is to condence water.
>> After coolers are well worth the trouble if you are having moisture problems.
>
>Right.  Warmer air can hold more moisture.  Cooler air can hold less.  If
>you cool the air in your lines, the water vapor will condense out and can
>be drained off.

Greetings. I would imagine that it would be better to remove the water
before it gets into the compressor (when it's at STP). A possible
solution would be to strip off a outer casing of a small-ish de-
humidifier and constuct a sheet-metal funnel/tunnel - such that
you would have a cylinder that would encompass the chilled coils of
the dehumidifier and then would taper off and go into the compressor
intake. Some scheme of removing the condensed water off the coils
would have to be developed but I would consider just the effect of
cooling the air some xx degrees would be a bonus. These suckers go
for ~$100 new and if I had more than the little cheezy tank-less
oiless, I might consider it. Anyone?

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:55:49 EST 1996
Article: 42976 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:00:05 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <jesw-0512961000050001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100> <849497949snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk> <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au> <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
(James Wilkins) wrote:

> Rotary engines weren't necessarily as complicated as radials. The cam for
> the valves is in the rear, part of the stationary engine mount. The ones I
> have seen or have drawings of only have 1 large valve in the head, opening
> right out into the breeze, and either a check-type valve in the piston or
> transfer ports like a 2-stroke. Some of the intake air comes into the
> crankcase through the hollow engine mount where a spray nozzle simply
> saturates it with gasoline vapor. This non-explosive mixture is sucked
> into the cylinder during part of the intake stroke, then the cam opens the
> valve in the head to let in more air and get the mixture lean enough to
> burn. The valve in the head opens again for the exhaust stroke. 
> 

I went digging through a 1922 aircraft engine book last night and found
some changes to the above, which is for a 100 HP Gnome Monosoupape (single
valve).
 
Apparently a great advantage was nearly perfect balance. Both pistons and
cylinders spin in circles which are fixed relative to the airplane. Only
the valve assemblies vibrate.  

The cams were in front, the distributor ring and magneto were in back. 
The valve opened half way through the power stroke, stayed open through
the exaust stroke, and closed after 3/4 of the following intake stroke. 
The transfer ports were open 20 degrees before and after bottom dead center. 

The pressing need for more power later in the war made these engines more
complicated and they acquired overhead intake valves and manifolds running
up from the crankcase. Some even had the cylinders spinning one way and
the crank spinning the other.

Lindsay's reprint of the 1977 Model Engineer has an article (no prints) on
building a 1/5 scale working model of the Monosoupape engine. 

>From  Eddie Rickenbacker's bio:
American aviation cadets going to France to fight the Germans arrived at a
training field run by Rickenbacker, Wiedenbach, Spaatz, Tittel, und
Spiegel.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:50 EST 1996
Article: 42977 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!ronin.htc.honeywell.com!user
From: demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com (Bob DeMers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 5 Dec 1996 09:23:05 CST
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <demers_bob-0512960926560001@ronin.htc.honeywell.com>
References: <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100> <849497949snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk> <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au> <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ronin.htc.honeywell.com

In article <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
(James Wilkins) wrote:

 
> The engine was lubricated with castor oil mixed with the gas. Unburned oil
> sprayed out the exposed exhaust valves and coated everything behind
> including the pilot.
> 
> -- 
> James Wilkins
> The Mitre Corp.
> Bedford, MA

In some storie's, the pilot's bowels were also well lubricated, resulting
in a raging case of diarrhea.
-- 
Bob DeMers
Honeywell Technology Center
demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com


From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:51 EST 1996
Article: 42978 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 96 12:36:22 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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Message-ID: <586q0t$700@herald.concentric.net>
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X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <32a64a11.0@mournblade.ptw.com>,
   frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
snip

>Other than that I had a good experience with Warner Tool and
>Supply in North Holleywood where I bought my Mill and Lathe.
>(Happens to be run by a nephew of the Warner that heads up
>Rutland I think.)  The mans name is Perry Warner.  snip

Ya, Perry Warner was great. I'd forgotten about him untill I read
your reply. I was looking for some strange tool holders a couple
years ago and nobody had ever seen or heard of them before. Finally,
I took the phone book and went out driving. My last stop was Warner.
When I walked in he knew exactly what I was looking for and where to
get them. He really bent over backwards to help me out. (I think he
went through about four packs of smokes in the half hour I was there)

Thanks for reminding me about him, I'll have to throw some business his
way.

JD


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:52 EST 1996
Article: 42979 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Whitworth Bolt heads
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:58:33 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 23
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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>From  Page 4.11 in the new 3rd edition of Tubal Cain's "Model Engineer's
Handbook" (see TEE in the FAC for pointers to web site for ordering)

Old Whitworth (where D = Nominal Bolt Dia in inches)
Across Flats = 1.5D+ 1/8"
Across Corners = 1.55  x the Across the flats dim.
Nut Height = D
Bolt head height = 7/8 X D
Locknut thickness = 0.5 X D

He also says "..... prior to about 1939 most nut and bolt heads on Steam
engines would have been to the then 'Standard Whitworth' dimensions, though
British Standard Fine' hexagons were used in congested areas of medium and
large size diesel and gas engines - on cylender heads and bearing caps
especially. .... The BSF hexagon was, usualy, that of the next smallest
size of bolt - e.g. 1/2BSF fits a 7/16 Whitworth spanner. From 1941 onwards
the 'old Whitworth hexagon was phased out, simply to save metal during the
war, and both BSW and BSF bolts used the same BSF hexagon sizes."

~R

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From sld@nikodyne.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:54 EST 1996
Article: 42980 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.48.96.23!sld
From: sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 16:06:22 GMT
Organization: nikodyne technologies
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Message-ID: <586rtu$kai@news0-alterdial.uu.net>
References: <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net> <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com>
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In article <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com> writes:
-> check the s/n
-> if you give me the s/n i can tell you the age 
-> if it is in halfway decent shape
-> then BUY IT 

what about a Meuser 18" (26 with gap) by 84" lathe?

-- 
  pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
investigate,impeach,imprison,inter;socialism destroys,defund the left
  "more laws... we can't control enough citizens without more laws"
                         -liberal/socialist/communist mantra


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 13:55:55 EST 1996
Article: 42981 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4.2 Lbs H20 from 80 to 350F?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 01:12:30 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <32A7E37E.137B@earthlink.net>
References: <57vv38$haf@news.chatlink.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:42981 alt.energy.renewable:19765 sci.energy:59725

renewable wrote:
> 
> BTU=raise one pound of water one degree Farenheit.
> 
> 350 - 80  delta of 270F    (120PSI)
> 
> 270F * 4.2 Lbs = 1134 BTU's.
> 
> but 1200 BTU's needed to vaporize 1 lb H20 to steam,
> so  4.2 LBS H20 would need 5000BTU's??.
> 
> I don't understand the discrepancy, except that the first
> does not take into account a phase change. Help.
> 
> Real question I am trying to answer is that I know of
> a steam engine/gen  that produces  10 kWe
> consuming  5000BTU's or 1/2 gallon per minute
> with a feedwater of 80F.
> 
> What I want to know, is how many BTU's would
> I save if the feedwater was heated to 200F instead
> of to 80F and then fed to boiler/engine.
> 
> It should take less than 5000BTU with the 200F
> feedwater than the 80F feedwater, but by how
> much less BTU's?
> 
> It involves a phase change so I can't quite grok
> it. Thanks for any help..
> 
> dsg

The first thing to understand this problem is that the water at
120PSI(gage pressure) (is actually 134.7 PSIA (absolute pressure)) boils
at about 350 degrees F. Under this condition the latent heat of
evaperation in order to change the water to steam is really about 871.2
BTUs/lb. The Enthalpy of the saturated vapor(steam) is 1193.2 BTU/lb.

1193.2 BTU/lb x 4.2 lbs = 5011.44 BTU

871.2 BTU/lb x 4.2 lbs = 3659.04 BTU
 
350 deg. - 80 deg. = 270 deg.

270 x 1 BTU/lb x 4.2 lbs = 1134 BTU

3659.04 BTU + 1134 BTU = 4793.04 BTU (that's better than 95 persent
efficient - not bad!)

Heating the feed water will still take BTUs from somewhere. The savings
only enter in to it when you reclaim heat that would otherwise be lost.
An economizer is one way of doing it. An economizer uses excess stack
gas temperature to heat the feedwater just before it enters the bioler. 
A condenser can also be used to reclaim the condensate and some of its
heat from the exhausted steam.

If you can reclaim some BTUs you can use the 1 BTU/lb H2O/deg.F to get a
rough idea of how much savings. Or you can check a set of steam tables
to get a more exact answer. I'm sure there must be some software that
does it too.  

Hope this helps,

Jay


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 13:55:56 EST 1996
Article: 42982 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: anvils
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darylb wrote:

> Maybe you could help with my query. I was at an antique store this weekend...
> 
> The funny thing is the flat surface has some tiny bubble type holes like
> it was cast. Did anybody ever make a bick iron out of cast iron or am I
> looking at cast steel? How could I tell the difference. You would think
> that this is specialized enough equipment that only serious manufacturers
> would make one and hence I can't beleive it would be cast iron but am
> wondering as it would be used for delicate work and maybe sombody thought
> they could pull off a cast iron one. I don't want to break my bick as it
> were.
> 
> Curious
> Daryl

Sorry Daryl, haven't a clue. You seem to have it right--why would you
make it cast, and how else do you get little bubbles?

Could the bubbles be corrosion pits?

Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From chernoff@cs.ubc.ca Tue Dec 17 13:55:57 EST 1996
Article: 42983 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chernoff@cs.ubc.ca (William Chernoff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Quorn tool/cutter grinder
Date: 5 Dec 1996 08:15:36 -0800
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Lines: 19
Message-ID: <586sf8$hbl@chaplin.cs.ubc.ca>
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Summary: seeking opinions/reviews of Quorn t/c grinder
Keywords: Quorn, grinder
X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 BETA4 #13

 Sorry for the re-post, but my original one seems to have 
 disappered almost immediately (ie within a few hours)

 I am considering buying a Quorn kit tool/cutter grinder and would
 like opinions from those who already have built/seen one.

 1: Is the kit complete?
 2: are the casting s high quality?
 3: is the design ok?
 4: are the instructions/plans clear.?
 5: is the final product usable?

 Its hard to tell from a photo in a catalog just whats  what.
 please post here, or email me

 Bill Chjernoff
 chernoff@cs.ubc.ca




From schnei@massmed.org Tue Dec 17 13:55:58 EST 1996
Article: 42984 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Peter B. Schneider, M.D." <schnei@massmed.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: fireplace screen
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 11:23:22 -0500
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I wish to construct a custom fireplace spark guard screen. Does anyone
know of a source of suitable iron (or maybe steel) wire screening. My
local metal supplier does not know of a source and thinks that the
screening may be made by the spark guard manufactuerer for their own
use.



From clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu Tue Dec 17 13:56:00 EST 1996
Article: 42985 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clrowe@andromeda.rutgers.edu (Charles L. Rowe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on rifle actions
Date: 5 Dec 1996 11:39:01 -0500
Organization: Rutgers University
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iwilder@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Isaac Wilder) writes:

>teamhail@aol.com wrote:
>: I'm trying to find info on building your own actions, I'm interested in
>: ----SNIP!------
>A fellow by the name of DeHass, I believe that is correct, wrote a book on
>making a single shot action he designed.  I don't know if it is still
>in print or not.  
----SNIP!-----


    There's a book of single shot rifle plans available fron Brownell's....
    I don't have the catalog here at work, but I think this is the same
    one you're referring to. The name  DeHass (sp?) sounds familiar.
    

 	Call 'em and ask. They are generally helpful folk.

					Good luck,
					Charlie


my opinions! all mine!





.



From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:01 EST 1996
Article: 42986 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 5 Dec 1996 16:28:18 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
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Summary: uh?

In Article <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net>, through puissant locution, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> soliloquized:
>...Uh-HUH!  I've heard of and [not] seen this too..a man over in Alabama 
>welds cracked automotive cylinder heads; no welder, no kiln, no heat.  I 
>took one to him once and picked it up the next day; it wasn't even warm. 
> I asked him how it was done (of course) and he politely told me that he 
>wasn't going to tell me; it had cost him $2000 and a year's 
>apprenticeship to learn it from someone else and if I wanted to know it 
>would cost me as well!  He did use the words "chemical-pin" but that may 
>have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 
[zap]

"Overnight Federal Express" is how you spell that process.

I think you can order the special "cold fusion" kit from the same outfit...

;-)

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From bharne@adss.on.ca Tue Dec 17 13:56:02 EST 1996
Article: 42987 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!news
From: "Bill Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 5 Dec 1996 06:44:18 GMT
Organization: Zip News
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I would deeply appreciate that, Peter.

Thanks.
-- 
Bill Harnell [bharne@adss.on.ca]

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote in article
<19961203170300.MAA09539@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>,
brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter
> Brooks) writes:
> 
> >Well, if you want the real thing, have the 300-400 for
the castings, and
> the
> >time to do it, contact Power Model Supplies in Missouri.
 (See the FAQ
> >for contacts.)  As far as I know (look Ma, no
acronyms!), they are the
> only
> >US dealer for the Quorn.  Not sure who sells them in the
UK.
> >
> >
> 
> PIM arrived yesterday and there is an article about
handles with knobs on.
> They show a Quorn tool and cutter grinder but there does
not look to be
> more than about 30 or 40 parts to the entire thing.
Probably no more than
> 12 or 15 castings. If someone would like a TIF image I
can scan it and
> attach it to an email.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Tue Dec 17 13:56:03 EST 1996
Article: 42988 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 17:28:41 GMT
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bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu (The Hurdy Gurdy Man) wrote:
>  The one he pointed me towards
>was the Emco-Meier Compact 5, which admittedly seemed like a nice enough
>lathe (although, I'd like to hear some opinions about it, if anyone
>would care to post them). 

I have the Compact 5 and also the C 5 Unimill, which is the companion mill. Within 
their size limitations they are decent machines. They are somewhat larger than the 
Sherline machines, have steel rather than aluminium ways, and are about twice as 
heavy. The also cost about twice as much so the extra mass and capacity come at a 
price. If you want more info on the EM/Sherline comparison, I suggest a catalog from 
Blue Ridge which carries both lines. None the less, my personal recommendation 
remains the "third alternative": get a second hand 10-12 inch Logan/SB/Atlas which 
will enable you to tackle a far broader range of projects. 

And by the way, I would not take the "Made in Austria" line too seriously. The base 
of my Unimill is from Spain and I would not want to bet that all the parts of the 
Compact 5 are from Austria (or even from Europe for that matter). 

Roger Weppelman



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:04 EST 1996
Article: 42989 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morton Machinery, are you out there?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 17:28:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32a71ff5.2752967@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>Am I the only one "lucky" enough to receive this?  Am I out of line
>for being offended by this?  I would think that they should have sent
>a brief message saying what was available, and a pointer to their Web
>address.
> 

G'day Lucky! 

I don't think you are out of line with your opinion. I pay by the hour and
I get really miffed when un-anounced huge posts come through. Some idiot
on atl.machines.cnc uuencoded some machine macros. At 14 minutes and still
counting I shut the modem off. I went back in and droped the NG from my
offline list.

Someone with Morton's Internet/www savvy should know better. I got one
>from  them about 4 or 5 weeks back that listed three machines. I sent a
very annoyed response to them and have received nothing since. I have
really been Killfiled. Suits me too.

Try e-mailing Mark. mark@mortonmachinery.com

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:05 EST 1996
Article: 42990 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for spun tops
Date: 5 Dec 1996 17:28:42 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <584p0b$1l6@lily.redrose.net>, emporer@success.net writes:

>I need a source for metal bowls to use in making helmets and shield
bosses.
>I would like 12 gauge steel...but would take anything close!
>Oddly, I have no idea where to get such things, other than having seen
>what was being sold at Pensic years ago ( I last went to the wars in
'87...)
>and referred to as "spun tops."
>
>

How big? I seem to remember catalog of 'cans' that are intended for
potting transformers and the like.

Let me know the size range and I will search the
'not-currently-interested' pile of catalogs that stands about 4'-0" tall.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:07 EST 1996
Article: 42991 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: 5 Dec 1996 17:28:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <585hac$cks@hecate.umd.edu>, rhys@wam.umd.edu (Aubrey Philip
Williams) writes:

>>My favorite is Rutland tool and supply. They have the absolute best
deals on
>milling 
>>cutters anywhere... we buy hundreds from them. Also good is Eastern
tool,
>but watch 
>>out for the Indian stuff. For absolutely first rate service (fast) go
with
>MSC. Not 
>>always the cheapest.) Avoid Enco like the plague.
>
>

I have quit dealing with Eastrenas they substitute from stock. I ordered
four tap wrenches, one of each size they advertise. I got One 15" one and
three 7" ones. I called and was told they substituted so they could ship
the order. One of their claims to fame was "they don't back-order like
Enco"

I could have shipped two back for a refund but they cost $3.85 a piece.
Shipping would have almost equalled that.

On the rare occasion that they did put stuff on back order when they
shipped the BO stuff they charged me extra freight. Enco do not.

Providing I am not in too much of a hurry and I can't get the stuff for a
reasonable price from elsewhere (IPS, Reid, MSC, DoAll) I still use Enco
quite happily. Eastern has been off my list for 12 months.

Peter



From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:08 EST 1996
Article: 42992 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner/Advanced Reading List Condensed
Date: 5 Dec 1996 17:47:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I agree with the Lautard books (my favorites) and all the Village Press
Books I've read.

Additionally, I finally flipped through my copy of Inspection and Gaging
last night, and highly recommend it.  It covers both the how and why of
accurate, as well as eroneous measurements.  It also covers measurement
equipment and its limitations.  When I cut bearing pockets on a lathe
years back, I couldn't figure out why my callipers measured the bore as
being smaller than the race, yet it was a loose fit, not the press fit I
desired.  Something about using the right tools for the job!  But, I did
learn to use a center punch to raise the surface of the bore enough to
hold the race in!

The book is put out by Industrial Press and carried by most of the big
tool suppliers, as well as the smaller ones that carry SPI products. 
Bright red cover with a mic. on the front.

Paul


From van_baker@hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:09 EST 1996
Article: 42993 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Van Baker <van_baker@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:48:58 -0700
Organization: HP
Lines: 7
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References: <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe0bf$29021bc0$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <32a51bde.1964092@news.sprynet.com> <582re9$3hc@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32a5c76a.859422075@news.islandnet.com>
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Guy Lautard sells plans and/or castings for his Tinker cutter & grinder setup.
Has anyone any experience with these?  As I recall, the plans are about $40,
and include a simpler version which does not require the castings, and the
castings are about $75.  How does usability compare with the Quorn and/or the
PIM version??

Van


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:10 EST 1996
Article: 42994 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Knorrostol Review
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:00:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I bought a tube of Knorrostol to clean up some rusted V blocks awhile back
(still haven't done em yet though) on the advise of The Machinist Bedside
Reader.  Anyhow, I was recently given a 3 jaw chuck for a TAIG lathe(no
excuse not to get one now!) and it had a fair amount of light surface
rust.  Well, I finally broke down and gut out the Knorrostol and had a go.
 It has sort of an ammonia smell, and seems slightly abrasive.  I put a
dab on a shop rag, and with a few light swipes the rust was off, the
surface still had a stain slight stain, but within a few minutes the chuck
looked like new.  The stuff claims to prevent further rusting, and seemed
to leave an oily surface.  I oiled the chuck anyhow.

Impressed with my success, I rubbed some on the aluminum soft jaw, and it
polished that right up.  It seems to polish like Simichrome, but I think
there are chemicals as well as abrasives at work.  Deciding I wanted to
know what it could do, I went over to my race kart.  The tuned pipes are
sheetmetal, and get a pretty good layer of rust on em if you don't paint
em.  So, I put down a good size blob of the stuff, and rubbed away.  Sure
enough, it took of that rust too.  It didn't get the rust out of the pits,
but I'm certainly impressed with the stuff.

So, I'm sold on the stuff.  I don't think it would clean up a knurled
surface, but on a smooth surface it takes the rust right off.  I'd advise
cleaning it up if you use it on any sliding surface.  It really doesn't
take much force to clean up rust either, its leaps and bounds above steel
wool and WD40.

Well, just my 2 cents,

Paul


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:11 EST 1996
Article: 42995 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TAIG blank collet ?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:05:07 GMT
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I recently acquired a fair # of blank TAIG colletts from work.  We use the
TAIG's for some special labratory tooling, and the machinist makes special
collets for that purpuse.  He tried to use the blank collets which appeat
to be leaded steel, but kept breaking slitting saws when he tried to split
them.  The metal was really gummy and grabbed the blades.

My question, now that I have ~20 blank collets, after boaring them, how do
I split them?  I figure a jeweler's saw will do the trick, but wonder if
anyone has any first hand experience with these collets.

Anyother advice on the TAIG would also be appreciated.  I've been
contemplating getting one for awhile, but now that I got a bunch of
collets, and a 3 jaw chuck, I figure why not?

Thanks,

Paul

TeamHail@aol.com


From me@over.here Tue Dec 17 13:56:13 EST 1996
Article: 42996 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:14 EST 1996
Article: 42997 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Collets for Shirline Mill
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:12:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Bryan,

J&L Industrial has 2 flute minature cobalt double ended end mills on sale
for ~$5 during December.  They have standard and and extra length.  The
also have some HSS 4 flute minature end mills for ~$3.  I'll fax you a
copy of the sale sheet if your interested.  You can call em at
1-800-521-9520.  I picked up some 1/8" last month as they were also on
sale.  I haven't tried yet, but they look good and are sharp.  They're
maid in Spain.  I'll probably pick up some more while they're on sale.

Paul


From nipntuck@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:15 EST 1996
Article: 42998 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nipntuck@concentric.net (Bill Carrothers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,edm.forsale,alt.folklore.gemstones,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.beads,alt.beadworld
Subject: Re: FREE CATALOG - WHOLESALE PRICES
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On Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:41:05 -0600, pmurphy@wyoming.com wrote:

>  E-mail for free catalog of findings, cut stones, beads & beading
>  supplies, clock movements, and much more at wholesale prices.
>
>-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Am looking for a few silver ring and other findings for oval and
rectangular cabs. Send to Bill Carrothers at 26220 Wildrose La.
Excelsior, Minn. 55331
Thanks, Bill


From  Tue Dec 17 13:56:16 EST 1996
Article: 42999 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: (Ken Payne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 05:09:24 GMT
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crostown@concentric.net (JD) wrote:

>In article <57plt1$47p@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>,
>   paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth) wrote:
>>In article <57o4qs$5va@herald.concentric.net> crostown@concentric.net (JD) 
>writes:
>>-In article <57ntku$65o@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
>>-   Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>>->crostown@concentric.net (JD) wrote:
>>->>In article <329F6540.1A01@MisterFixit.com>,
>>->>   Mister Fixit <BobHewitt@MisterFixit.com> wrote:
>>->>
>>->>>Don't mess with it.  The hole in the center is what centers the wheel on
>>->>>the axle and transmit a good deal of the load to the axle.  The lug nuts
>>->>>just clamp the wheel down to the axle plate.  The taper on the nuts help
>>->>>in centering but the hole is the main feature.  Go buy new wheels!!
>>->>>
>>->>>Bob
>>->>
>>->>What? How does a center hole transfer load to the axle? I think the taper
>>->>on the nuts do all the locating, the center hole on the wheel is there
>>->>to clear the axle, and that's it.
>>->
>>->Nope, Mr.Fixit is right, the hole in the wheel fits snugly over the 
>>-protrussion on the axle 
>>->and often the hole in the wheel has a lip turned in or out  and this lip 
>>-provides strength. 
>>->Lugs will stretch and bend allowing the wheel to move about if it wasn't 
>for 
>>-the center hole 
>>->keeping the wheel in place. Cheers Bob
>>->
>>-
>>-Now you got me curious. I ran out and tore a wheel off my truck. The
>>-center hole is way bigger than the protruding axle stub, and does
>>-nothing to hold or locate the wheel. 
>>-
>>-I forgot already what vehicle this post was in regard to, maybe not
>>-all wheels are created equally.
>>-
>>-A round hole on a round shaft isn't going to transfer any torque regardless.
>>-
>>-JD
>>
>>No, but on some wheels, the center hole is used to locate the wheel
>>so it's concentric with the axle.  I'm not an auto engineer, but this
>>seems to be done more often than not.
>>
>
>No way!  I was just driving around, looking at wheels, and I saw nothing
>where the center hole of the wheel had anything to do with anything
>but clearance. In fact, just looking at one, most real axles end in a
>flange with the lug bolts pressed in, with no protrusion whatsoever.
>Go look at one and then tell me I'm wrong.

Gotta agree with you on this.  My 67 Ford F100 weighs in at 4700lbs
with a big block FE V8 in the front (670lb engine) and the wheels
do not rest on the spindle.  The lugs take up all the weight.  I've
taken some corners at rather high speeds, if the spindles were
supposed take up the force of the wheels I would've lost a wheel
a long time ago.

Wife's 93 Escort is the same.


-Ken, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8 - Fordnatic
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
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| Cole's Law: Thinly Sliced Cabbage                                    |
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From DHSSTLC@dhfs.state.wi.us Tue Dec 17 13:56:18 EST 1996
Article: 43000 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DHSSTLC@dhfs.state.wi.us
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 12:20:38 -0800
Organization: DHFS_Wisconsin
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At $900 something is eather very wrong with the lathe or with the seller.
Outside of the size and moving considerations I would take a good look at 
it,  Unless of course it is in the Madison WI area; then you should 
avoid it at all costs and send me the sellers phone number so I can give 
him a piece of your mind. : -}


> Quoted from the local paper:
> 
> LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
> 
> This worth a second look? Opinions?
> 
> Jim Waggener


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:19 EST 1996
Article: 43001 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 5 Dec 1996 18:31:04 GMT
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Discussion about using a mill as a lathe deleted...

I have been comtemplating using my Sherline mill horizontally to crown
a pulley/flywheel. I was thinkin alone these lines....

Rotate the motor horizontially.
Mount pulley/flywheel on a short stubshaft and hold in chuck.
Hold the other end if necessary using the tailstock intended to be used
with the rotary table when same is used vertically.

Mount toolpost on rotary table such that it gives the desired radius. 
This would require the table to go under the pully and consequently a
pretty tall tool post. I think the tall tool post for use with the riser
blocks might do it.

Adjust Z axis so that tool is on centerline of pulley.

Crown pulley by turning rotary table.
What do you guys think??

chuck sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com
-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Dec 17 13:56:20 EST 1996
Article: 43002 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anti-rust compounds?
Message-ID: <1996Dec5.090635.25791@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 5 Dec 96 09:06:35 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <flynnj-0312961158150001@flynn1.jmc.tju.edu>, flynnj@jeflin.tju.edu (John T. Flynn) writes:
|>    I am interested in rust proofing small metal parts and have seen
|>advertised small cardboard disks that are susposed to prevent rust for up
|>to 1 year when sealed with the part in a plastic bag.  Anyone had any
|>success with these?  What compound is impregnated in the cardboard?  I
|>have heard that sodium nitrite can do the same thing.  Any information
|>available on using sodium nitrite to protect larger spaces (up to 20 cu
|>ft.?)

Well, this happens to be in the FAQ which is available via
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

30.   Rust!  How do I deal with rust?

     Some machinists live in areas where rust prevention is important, such
     as those in humid areas.  There are various steps to reduce the problem,
     and sometimes several steps need to be taken simultaneously.  Here are
     some ideas from previous posts on the topic:

     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> wrote, on 2 Jun 94:

     I have a lot of expensive tools/toys that I have a LOT of trouble keeping
     from rusting.  Over the years, I have tried many different tricks and
     products, and I've summarized my results below.

     The paper is called VPI Paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor), and it's available
     from Brownell's (address in FAQ), as are raw crystals.  You want to make
     sure that the 'dusty' side of the paper faces the tool, and don't be
     surprised if some plastics (vinyl tool pouches) end up with a funny white
     surface.  It doesn't seem to hurt the plastic, but it's disconcerting
     until you get used to it.  The tools will stay rust free much longer if
     they are sealed in a tight box, or a zip lock bag.  In theory, you should
     replace the paper annually if it's exposed to the air on a semi-regular
     basis.

     There is also another similar product called Zrust.  This comes in a
     number of forms, typically plastic 'cartridges' and flat plastic squares.
     They are also available from Brownells, but if you think you are going to
     be using a lot of this stuff, you're better off locating a dealer and
     buying direct.  The cartridges can handle an entire tool box or cabinet,
     and the little squares are good for smaller containers.  Once again, the
     tools should be stored in some sort of container.  The more airtight it
     is, the less frequently you will need to replace the rust-inhibitor.

     A company called Hydrosorbent sells silica gel desiccant in several
     convenient sizes.  The nice thing about these is that they have an
     indicator to tell when they're saturated, and you can 'recharge' them in
     the oven.  I use the small aluminum packs for some of my tools, and
     all of my target pistols.  There is a new company that makes the same
     sort of thing in a plastic case that you can recharge in the microwave.
     If anyone knows where to get these, I'd love to find out.

     I also use a dehumidifier in my basement.  I live near Boston, and in the
     summer when my basement is still cool, the relative humidity goes through
     the roof.  I have a 25' x 30' basement, and a 25 pint capacity
     dehumidifier can keep the RH down to around 50% without running
     continuously.  It's best if you have a drain, so you don't have to
     remember to empty the bucket all the time.  Mine costs me about $20/month
     in electricity for 3-4 months each year.  If you go looking for a
     dehumidifier, get one that has a freeze-up cutout, and a hose connection
     on the machine, not the tank.  This saves a lot of space, and gets the
     water source up higher for easy draining.  As it is, I have mine up on top
     of a small set of shelves so that it will drain into the laundry sink.
     Check Consumer Reports for the most efficient model you can get,  it will
     pay for itself in electricity in short order.

     Brownells also used to sell 'Gunsmith's Soap', which was supposed to
     neutralize the pH of your skin before handling things.  They discontinued
     this before I could get a chance to try it, but I have found that washing
     your hands to remove salts from perspiration can help.  If anyone knows
     a source for 'Gunsmiths Soap', I'd love to try some.

     The one last trick I use when I'm handling something I don't want to rust
     (like when I'm disassembling a target pistol) is to wear cotton
     "inspection gloves" that have been lightly sprayed with a thin rust
     preventative oil.  This simultaneously prevents me from etching things
     with my corrosive perspiration, and lightly coats everything I touch with
     oil.  If you are concerned about what the oil does to your skin, you can
     wear latex gloves underneath the cotton.  It doesn't work well for really
     delicate work, and you have to be careful not to let anything slip
     through your fingers.

     There are several spray treatments that work well for storage.  My current
     favorite was developed by Boeing, and is called BoeShield T-9.  It's
     available from many marine supply houses.  After the carrier evaporates,
     it leaves a thin surface film that does an excellent job of protecting
     steel from corrosion.
     ==================================
     Doug White <gwhite@ll.mit.edu> followed up on the above,
     on Fri, 3 Jun 1994, with these addresses:

     Hydosorbent Co.
     Box 437
     Ashley Falls, MA  01222
     (413) 229-2967

     Sells Silica Gel descant packages in the following sizes:
     750 gram aluminum canister, 6"H x 4"D, protects 57 cubic ft., $24
     360 gram carton, 2" x 4" x 5", protects 27 cubic ft., $10.75
     40 gram aluminum box, 4" x 2" x 1/2", protects 3 cubic ft., $5.95
     26 gram packets, 2 12" x 4", protects 2 cubic ft., $12.00/10

     All but the packets are re-chargeable in an oven.  Post-paid, but
     $2.00 shipping charge.  They take MC/VISA

     Northern Instruments Corp.
     Lake Industrial Park
     6680 N. Hwy. 49
     Lino Lakes, MN  55014
     (612) 784-1250

     These folks sell a variety of VPI products.  The two most useful ones
     are their Zerust Vapor Capsules and Plastabs.  The capsules are plastic
     and have and adhesive strip to stick them into tool chests, machine tool
     cabinets etc.  The Plastabs are small squares cut from a 1/16" yellow
     sheet.

     The capsules come in several sizes, and are rated by radius of
     protection, and lifetime:

     VC-1-1, 1' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-1, 2' protection radius for 1 year
     VC-2-2, 2' protection radius for 2 years
     VC-6-2, 6' protection radius for 2 years

     The only ones I have a price on is the VC-2-1, which were $5 each.  The
     protection life varies with the degree to which the container is sealed.
     The capsules have a label to mark when they were installed so you know
     when to replace them.  Considering the cost, you may be better off with
     the silica gel canisters.  They will need recharging more often, but have
     an indicator.

     I couldn't find any detailed literature on the Plastabs, but I bought a
     sack with over 500 1/2" squares for $60.  They are much easier to use
     than VPI paper for small tools and parts.  I just toss one or two into
     a zip lock bag of small tool case.  These are sold in the 3/4" size by
     Brownells as 'Rust-Blox' (see below), where they claim they are good
     for 300 cubic inches.  Brownells wants $27.20 for 100, which is a good
     bit more expensive than buying them in bulk from the Zerust people.
     You'll need to call them to find a local distributor.  The shelf life
     is probably limited, even well sealed in a plastic bag, so if you don't
     need a lot, Brownells may still be cheaper.

     Brownells Inc.
     200 S. Street
     Montezuma, IA  50171-9989
     (516) 623-5401

     This is a gunsmith supply house, and sells a lot of good tools and other
     gadgets that even non-gunsmiths can use.  They have an extensive range
     of rust preventing supplies.  They sell the Hydrosorbent canisters for
     slightly less than Hydrosorbent does, and they carry the VPI tablets in
     small (but more expensive) quantities than N. Instruments.  They also
     sell VPI paper and Cosmoline (THE original GI rust preventative grease).
     The paper comes in 12" sq sheets, and can protect 1 cubic ft. for 2 years
     MINIMUM.  Typically, it lasts much longer.  They carry half a dozen
     varieties of aerosol rust preventatives, greases etc.

     Stock #

     415-100-040   40 gram silica gel cartridge             $5.50
     415-100-360   360 gram silica gel carton               $9.95
     415-100-750   750 gram silica gel canister            $22.50
     084-058-050   50 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                 $15.70
     084-058-100   100 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs                $27.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 10 sheets, 12" x 12"          $4.20
     084-031-010   VPI Paper, 50 sheets, 12" x 12"         $14.88

     I think that exhausts everything I know about rust prevention.  I've
     been fighting the battle ever since I moved from New Mexico 24 years
     ago, and I hope this can save someone some trouble.

     Doug White
     MIT Lincoln Laboratory

     =====================================================

     If the parts are small enough for that treatment then you can use
     "Blue Bags".  They are made by Bianchi ostensibly to store handguns in,
     but I find that any rustable metal parts are protected by them. They
     have zip lock style tops and come in several sizes.  I believe they also
     sell some in rifle sizes but without the zip lock closure.

     =====================================================

     For rust removal, the most common suggestion was Naval Jelly by Duro,
     available at many hardware stores.  It contains dilute phosphoric
     acid as its main ingredient.  Be prepared to apply a proper preventive
     after removal, as the metal will be left in a vulnerable condition.


From jgraham@txdirect.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:21 EST 1996
Article: 43003 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jgraham <jgraham@txdirect.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Problem with airbrush refrigeration type compressor
Date: 4 Dec 1996 05:26:24 GMT
Organization: Internet Direct, Incorporated
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> This is caused by air pressure against the piston that provides resistance
> that cannot be overcome by the motor starting torque. If you have a tank
> then it should have a pressure switch to control the cut-in and cut-out
> pressures. These switches can be had with a relief valve that bleeds the
> air out of the cylinders when the pump stops, thereby facilitating a
> sucessful restart (thats a mouthful). You will need to install a check
> valve between the compressor and the tank to prevent bleeding the tank
> down through the relief valve.
> 
> You should also have a safety valve on the tank to vent it if the pressure
> switch fails (on).
> Orest
******************************************************************
Concur with the observations made by Orest.  There are lots of 
compressors that will NOT start against a load.  That is, they must have
an empty tank upon starting.  The manufacturer has specifications 
for their products.  If they are not available, just know that your
compressor will not start against a load.  You must discharge the 
air tank before engaging your compressor.  This does not disqualify 
your compressor for some purposes.  It is just a design feature.
                                       J. Graham
                                       Texas - NO STATE INCOME TAX
                                               AND A $2.7 BILLION
                                               BUDGET EXCESS.  
                                              


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:22 EST 1996
Article: 43004 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 4 Dec 1996 21:28:23 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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If you can purchase a complete lathe, and then buy the mill with out the
motor assembly, you can have the best of both worlds just by removing the
spindle and motor (one screw) and installing it on the other machine. This
would save you the cost of the duplicate spindle motor. 

Just a thought, no one has mentioned it. It will still be more costly than
the lathe with milling column.

Bill


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:23 EST 1996
Article: 43005 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing make my living running several machines
Date: 4 Dec 1996 21:28:26 GMT
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>>The fact that the Ahha software works and that the Microkinetics stuff
>>has
>>major problems as you described in an earlier post cant possibly have
the
>>same end result.
>>
>>
>By same end result I mean a *working* CNC Sherline. As I have repeatedly
>said, "not wishing to go into the relative merits or faults of the
>software..."


If you dont compare the relative merits or faults, how can you arrive at
the decision that you have the "same end result"?

All I am saying is that you are not making a fair comparison. You are
telling the beginner that might be thinking about embarking down the road
to low cost CNC bliss that he / she  will get the same "end result" by
only spending $999.00 as he would if he spent the $3000.00 on the Ahha
system.



>Bill be fair, I also said they fixed almost all of them too. How about
>helical interpolation? Working yet?

Where did you get this info? What version of software are they running? 

As I said to you before I do not know of any problems with helical
interpolation, it works on the 4 versions of Artisan and 1 version of CNC
Pro that I have. When I set up a system, I use the helical routine to burn
in the system. I have not actually cut threads with it, but it is pretty
impressive to watch the table making circles while the z axis moves
linearly. I personally think that it is much more important (in my
applications) to be able to do circular interpolation without having to
reboot my machine when it wont stop.


>It might also be a nice gesture to declare your associations with the
>company in question so people can form an unbiased opinion when you slam
>MicroK.


OK my declaration: I am not a formal reseller of Ahha systems, I do not
work for Ahha, I have on 8 occasions personally  re-sold Ahha products for
a small profit. I might also add that with the amount of personal customer
service I have added to these sales I have not made a red cent. This is a
hobby for me, I enjoy helping people get their machines up and running
properly and professionally! I make my living another way. 

And I also dont feel that I have Slammed anyone, I simply repeated some
facts as you had "messengered " them. I have bought several items from
Microkinetics, and have been happy with them and the service they had
provided me with. I did not buy there software based upon the comparison
between there demo versions, Dancad / cam, Minitech, and some company from
PA to the Ahha demo software.


>I really get tired of all of this.

Then start making fair and like comparisons. Dont try to play down a
product just because its not exactly what you want, dont need, or cant
find the budget for. 


> I am the messenger! If a company sets
>these prices then surely it's their problem to defend them. I like to
>point out what I have found out. It's called passing the knowledge along.

>I am not trying to do anyone out of business. I spent a great deal of
time
>evaluating a lot of alternatives and I elected to go with MicroK. I see
>nothing wrong with passing on what I discovered so that maybe others can
>start half way down the path to setting up a low cost CNC.


Once again, you should not try and make the beginner think that he / she
will get the "same end result" with a $999.00 CNC system as they would
with the $3xxx.xx Ahha system. And lets surely make sure they know they
will not get anything "exactly " like a $60,000.00 VMC except for speed. (
and yes I realize that this may be your own personal experience )


>I have a working Sherline CNC, it churns parts daily. For the parts I am
>making and will continue to make on the Sherline they would be *exactly*
>the same if I made them on a Haas VF-0 at $60,000. The only thing that
>would change is the rate at which they come off the machine.


I guess you must be a tremendous machinist / programmer if you can get the
same accuracy and repeatibility out of your Sherline / MicroK machine. 

Just joking....I too get tremendously accurate and repeatable parts of my
Sherline machines and other "low cost " machines.


>Let me repeat just one more time. What I have reported is what I found to
>be true in *my* experience.


Sorry you had to repeat yourself, I know how busy you must be, I must have
missed that statment in your original post.

>Peter

I am very sorry that this post if sooooooo..... far off the subject. In
the future I will try to refrain from such off topic responses.

Bill "who sometimes resells Ahha products for little profit vs time"
Griffin





From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Tue Dec 17 13:56:25 EST 1996
Article: 43006 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Message-ID: <E1uJnM.8D@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:40:34 GMT
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com> <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32a54425.694747093@news.islandnet.com>
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 23

In article <32a54425.694747093@news.islandnet.com>,
Jens <psh@islandnet.com> wrote:
>charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom) wrote:
>
>>Would somebody be so kind to point to somewhere where I can see
>>a picture/drawing of an "Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong gib-type tool
>>post".
>
>Any tool supplier will carry these (or their clones).
>MSC is one supplier of course but even a local (to you) supplier
>should know what it is or have them listed in their catalog.
>Jens

Sure about that?  Aloris etc. exports to Europe?  But some kind souls
sent me a picture and now I do know what it is and yes, I have
seen them (but different manufacturers:-)

Cheers,
-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From kroeker@mbnet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:56:26 EST 1996
Article: 43007 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kroeker@mbnet.mb.ca (Harold Kroeker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: centre drills: bell vs straight
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:30:23 GMT
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There seem to be three types of centre drills available and I am not
sure which type to use for which application.  The types that I have
encountered are:

Straight
- 60 degree included angle

Bell
- 60 degree included angle which bells out to 120 degrees.
- produces centre holes with beveled edges to prevent damage to the
centering hole.
- claimed to reduce the bearing surface of the centre hole

Ring seat
- similar to bell type but the 60 degree included angle is followed by
an 82 degree chamfer angle.
- from the McMaster-Carr catalog: "two rings on body provide a strong
bearing point for heavy duty work"


In "The Amateur's Lathe"  it states that one should drill a centre
hole large enough to support the work and no larger.  Is there a rule
of thumb to use or do I need to make a few centre holes too small to
learn this?


Harold




From walnutz@prairienet.org Tue Dec 17 13:56:27 EST 1996
Article: 43008 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: walnutz@prairienet.org (Barry Wolinetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 4-jaw chuck repair
Date: 4 Dec 1996 03:31:39 GMT
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Chuck Harris (cfharris@erols.com) wrote:
: Fitch R. Williams wrote:
: ...
: > Fitch
: > I wonder if the "ruin" in "how to ruin a lathe" book he
: > referred to  was a Freuedian slip ...  back to the flash
: > light ...
: 
: Na Fitch, I doubt it.  Everytime I see the book, I see "How to ruin a lathe"
: They picked an unfortunate style of type that makes the asending bar of the
: "N" look abit like an "I" followed by an "N".
: 
: -----
: Chuck Harris - WA3UQV
: cfharris@erols.com

Actually,  It was a feeble attempt at humor! 

Barry
-- 


From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:28 EST 1996
Article: 43009 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knorrostol Review
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:13:00 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
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<teamhail@aol.com> wrote:
>I bought a tube of Knorrostol to clean up some rusted V blocks awhile back
...

Does the tube list ingrediates ?   The local SPI distributer here has it
on sale in their flyer.  I was thinking about giving it a try.

Thanks,
Gary Lowell
glowell@engr.sgi.com


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:30 EST 1996
Article: 43010 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:01:15 GMT
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


>	Chris, I am surprised that you had to use *so*  much force to remove/
>	install the spindle. 
>	
>I was too. But I'm pretty convinced that the force was all about getting
>the Woodruff key seated into the bull gear.

>We'll see. I haven't spent much time at the highest speed, but it seems
>to be working well at all the others.

>(How do people lube the back gear, by the way? Are there zerk fittings
>out there with 1/4-20 threads, to pump the Teflon grease in?)

There is a little hole near each end of the backgear shaft
mount in the headstock.  I put a couple of drops of oil in
there.  There is also a screw in the middle of the backgear
shaft housing behind the drive pully, almost i line with the
oil screw in the steped pulley on the head stock.  On my
lathe it has a gasket on it, so I remove it  and I fill it
up with oil.  It goes around so you may have to look for it
- easy to find by turiing the thing with the back gear
disengaged.  

There are a lot of unlabeled oil holes on the SB, especially
in gear train leading to the lead screw.

By the way, you you know the pitch and presssure angle of
the change gears on a SB?

Fitch



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:31 EST 1996
Article: 43011 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:24:53 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear fellow friend:

For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?

Thank You.


Alberto
>from  London


From gds@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:32 EST 1996
Article: 43012 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gds@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Instruction in Phoenix area
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 19:37:12 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Hello.  I am hoping to find a machinist in the Phoenix area I can pay
to give me some hands on instruction and guidance.  If anyone has any
ideas would you be kind enough to email me?

Thanks.



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:33 EST 1996
Article: 43013 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe bench tool storage
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:01:43 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


>	When the wall is put in to seperate the wood
>	and metal shops I will put a cupboard over it leaving a
>	useable work space below it.  that wall will probably have
>	cupboards on both sides of most of it.

>I know you probably want the storage space that a real wall provides,
>but have you considered putting in one of the walk-through dividers
>made of heavy plastic strips? They're quite good at keeping dust out,
>but don't stop light and don't require as much effort to install as a
>permanent wall.

Chris,

No, I had not thought of that option! (sound of hand
smacking forehead) but I certainly will give it some serious
thought.  It also has the feature that I don't need to deal
with the hassel of a permit to install it either.

Thanks
Fitch



From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:34 EST 1996
Article: 43014 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!ulowell.uml.edu!news.tacom.army.mil!news.webspan.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Burner Melt+Forge Metal
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 22:55:31 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 152
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------4ECB17D58B0"
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Dec 01  9:54:17 PM CST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0Gold (Win95; I)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------4ECB17D58B0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Anybody ever build and use this type of burner for
melting Aluminum,Bronze,Cast iron?? Or heating metal
for forge work??
..
Anybody read Dave Gingery's book's like How to build 
A Charcoal Foundry,to How to build a lathe sold
by Lindsay Publications Inc 815-935-5353
..
Attached file (picture) should autoload with netscape 3
or save gif file and view it.
..
A burner design for 2400 degrees F with propane alone.
..
For melting Bronze,Brass,and Aluminum
..
Does not require a fan due to energy of high velocity
propane sucking in air (Bunsen-Jet Pump Principle)
..

--------------4ECB17D58B0
Content-Type: image/gif; name="Burner1.gif"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Burner1.gif"

R0lGODlh9AGQAYAAAAAAAP///ywAAAAA9AGQAUAC/oyPqcvtD6OctNqLs968+w+G4kiW5omm
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--------------4ECB17D58B0--



From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:35 EST 1996
Article: 43015 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!ulowell.uml.edu!news.tacom.army.mil!news.webspan.net!ix.netcom.com!phase2.worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Burner Melt+Forge Metal
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 22:34:55 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <32A25C6F.5DFE@worldnet.att.net>
References: <32A25333.7AA6@ix.netcom.com>
Reply-To: randd@worldnet.att.net
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To: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>

Tom wrote:
> 
> Anybody ever build and use this type of burner for
> melting Aluminum,Bronze,Cast iron?? Or heating metal
> for forge work??
> ..
> Anybody read Dave Gingery's book's like How to build
> A Charcoal Foundry,to How to build a lathe sold
> by Lindsay Publications Inc 815-935-5353
> ..
> Attached file (picture) should autoload with netscape 3
> or save gif file and view it.
> ..
> A burner design for 2400 degrees F with propane alone.
> ..
> For melting Bronze,Brass,and Aluminum
> ..
> Does not require a fan due to energy of high velocity
> propane sucking in air (Bunsen-Jet Pump Principle)
> ..
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>  [Image]
I have used a similar burner with propane to heat an open bottom Raku
burnout oven for my ceramic shell molds.  It requires a hot stack to
allow exit of hot gasses.  My oven was an inverted half of a 55 gallon
steel drum insulated top and bottom with space age refractory blanket. 
The burner entered a small hole at the bottom.  At the top center I had
a six long two inch pipe nipple for a stack.  It worked fine for
burnout, but only reached temp. of 1500 F. which is not hot enough to
melt bronze.

Randy


From abraden@netusa1.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:36 EST 1996
Article: 43016 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.netusa1.net!usenet
From: art braden <abraden@netusa1.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" lathe owners input
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 01:17:46 -0800
Organization: NetUSA1 Inc.	
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32A3F03A.4EF3@netusa1.net>
References: <32A12074.3C10@netusa1.net> <57s46r$ak3@dfw-ixnews10.ix.netcom.com> <57tpbl$723@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
>  The power feed uses split nuts on the leadscrew, which is an area of major wear.  
>Examine the split nuts
> carefully.  (Note that Clausing still has these for only about $10 a set!)
> 
>                                         Jon

Thanks for the info Jon.

I called Clausing and advised me to measure the lead screw. If it was 5/8 " they do not 
carry parts for that model. If it was 3/4 " they had parts. Also it would cost about $300 to 
convert to the 3/4" lead screw.

Art Braden


From adva@ksc9.th.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:37 EST 1996
Article: 43017 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!vic.com!news
From: "MIKE.." <adva@ksc9.th.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.outdoors.camping,rec.outdoors.marketplace,rec.woodworking
Subject: POWER POCKET MICROSCOPES
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 20:51:33 +0700
Organization: Virtual Interactive Center
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <329EEA65.6366@ksc9.th.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39290 rec.collecting.stamps:40781 rec.crafts.jewelry:16045 rec.crafts.marketplace:10763 rec.crafts.metalworking:43017 rec.crafts.misc:27035 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:94708 rec.outdoors.camping:15073 rec.outdoors.marketplace:4913 rec.woodworking:167726

PORTABLE POCKET MICROSCOPE







Explore the microscopic world 







Good for viewing stamps, coins, jewellery, watch, stones,viewing skin

texture for direct sales person selling skin cream in illustrating to

their customer, or for detailed work such as wire manufacturers,

checking art work,  makes a great gift for every one,

very sharp and very powerful.

bulk quantity pricing available.







http://ksc.goldsite.com/Advanced/inno.html


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:38 EST 1996
Article: 43018 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plasma cutting
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:24:57 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <19961205192600.OAA04182@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

Dear Sir:

Please contact they have an excellent piece of equipment for you,
dont forget to send him my regards

Eric Wolfe
President
Magnum Manufacturing Inc.
8429 White Oak Avenue
Suite 110
R.C. 
C.A. 91730

Phone: 909-484-0985
Fax:     909-484-0785


Alberto
Aldborough Enterprises


From me@over.here Tue Dec 17 13:56:39 EST 1996
Article: 43019 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: me@over.here (Best Deal)
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Subject: WEB HOSTING Australia - Fantastic value
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From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:42 EST 1996
Article: 43020 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: where did I see it?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 21:57:25 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <587gg5$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.91.961202184232.12396B-100000@home.iis.com.br> <587elh$4kf@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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	BTW, here's another blatant plug
	for the village press book index (derived from the VP back issue index)
	that I worked on.  Jim Kirkpatrick did a nifty search engine for it, so 
	you can look for keywords and such.

Would you post the URL again, please? I expected to find a link to it
>from  the Metal Web News, but can't...


From van_baker@hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:43 EST 1996
Article: 43021 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Van Baker <van_baker@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 14:48:40 -0700
Organization: HP
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I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned Kitts (Kitts Industrial Tools, Detroit,
800-521-6579, in the FAQ).  While I've only ordered a couple of times (just getting
warmed up), service was good, came in a week (UPS), order complete.  They're 
certainly no MSC, but for selected items beat the price significantly (DTI ~$78,
MSC same brand/model on sale for $99. for example).  Just another possibility.

Happy comparing!
Van


From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:56:44 EST 1996
Article: 43022 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:40:47 -0600
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Not at all.  It's a worthless piece of junk.  In fact, if you tell me how 
to get in touch with the person selling it, I'll tell him what I think 
(Which is....I'll give you $925!)  :^)


Tom

(always looking, never able to afford)






On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Jim Waggener wrote:

> Quoted from the local paper:
> 
> LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
> 
> This worth a second look? Opinions?
> 
> Jim Waggener
> 
> 
> 


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:45 EST 1996
Article: 43023 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: moveable quill
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 20:56:27 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 69
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To: "Jonathan M. Elson" <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu>

it is accurately bored to about the same diameter
> as the quill.  
actually it is honed on a SUNNEN cylander king


I don't know what the clearance is between quill and housing,
> but it is quite small, certainly less than a thousandth.
the clearance between the the quil & housing is .0002"
the size of each housing is stamped on it, the trick is 
to know were it is stamped if anyone is interested ask
and i shall tell


  The upper part
> of the housing is bored something like .080" larger, and a 'skirt' made
> of rolled .040" sheet steel fits between the quill and housing.  On the
> Bridgeport 'M' head, it is brass, but otherwise similar.  I've never
> understood the purpose of these skirts, and if someone would like to fill
> us in on what they do, I'd appreciate it.  
nothing to do with lubrication
it keeps the dirt out of the spindle bearings
with the quill at the bottom
and if the skirt was removed you would see the top 
of the top spindle bearing


I believe they may have something
> to do with providing a more even film of lubrication to the top of the
> quill slide through capillary action, but I'm guessing.  
good theory but wrong<w>

On the Brodgeport
> J head, the skirt is attached to the top of the quill.  On the M head,
> it is free-floating between it's upper and lower limits.
> 
> Anyway, there is more:  The Bridgeport machines have a very elaborate scheme
> to allow one lubricant port to drip lubricant from the top of the machine,
> lubricating the driven belt pulley bearing, then the quill, then the top
> spindle bearing, and finally the bottom spindle bearing.  From this point,
> the spindle oil leaks out around the spindle nose.  Very clever!
not true there is a oil cup for top of the head and for the quill
housing


> 
> I'd suggest, before you try to design your own, you get someone to let
> you watch them take apart a Bridgeport J head, so you can see how the whole
> contraption works.  The drawings don't show many of the intricate details
> of how lubrication works, finishes and clearances, etc.
i suggest saving many many hundreds of hours trying to build one
and buy one instead



> 
> Another thought, why BUILD a VERY complicated and precise mechanism?
> Find a used Bridgeport (or clone) mill head, and adapt it on your machine.
> These do exist - I got a used J head that came off a giant gantry contouring
> machine.  There are also Bridgeport dual and triple head machines which
> are often converted back to single head for resale, and the extra heads
> are sold separately.  Look around.
yup i got them for sale




regards
andy popky
x-bridgeport employee


From dcollin@goodnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:46 EST 1996
Article: 43024 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Darrell Collins <dcollin@goodnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Die Filer Files
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:44:28 -0800
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Where can I find files for a Keller Model No. 1A Die-Filer?

I have looked in MSC, Penn, and Enco catalogues, but find nothing.

Thank you,
Darrell


From edalton@pen.k12.va.us Tue Dec 17 13:56:47 EST 1996
Article: 43025 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edalton@pen.k12.va.us (Eric W. Dalton Jr)
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4.2 Lbs H20 from 80 to 350F?
Message-ID: <E1yxEK.rIx@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 01:27:55 GMT
References: <5824al$hot@herald.concentric.net>
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 13

Check me if I'm wrong, The change from ice/water takes 540
calories/gm
and the change from water to steam takes 80 calories/gm.
Converting
to BTU/lb I get 799 BTU and 118 BTU respectively. 

JD
The above values are reversed.  
The phase change values are 80 cal/g to convert ice to water
and 540 cal/g to convert water to steam.

Eric W. Dalton Jr. Science Department  Fauquier High School 
705 Waterloo Road   Warrenton Va. 22186   540 364 6100


From Kjones@interlynx.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:48 EST 1996
Article: 43026 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <Kjones@interlynx.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: SI stuff
Date: 6 Dec 1996 23:15:26 GMT
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>BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
>This is all ABACADABRA to me.
>Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
>
>arie veltman

Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa

In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F



K. Jones


From Kjones@interlynx.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:50 EST 1996
Article: 43027 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <Kjones@interlynx.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Btu's n stuff.
Date: 6 Dec 1996 23:03:06 GMT
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 soltherm@chatlink.com (renewable ) writes:
>BTU=raise one pound of water one degree Farenheit.
>
>350 - 80  delta of 270F    (120PSI)
>
>270F * 4.2 Lbs = 1134 BTU's.
>
>but 1200 BTU's needed to vaporize 1 lb H20 to steam,
>so  4.2 LBS H20 would need 5000BTU's??.
>
>I don't understand the discrepancy, except that the first
>does not take into account a phase change. Help.

There would not be any phase change as you said  this is boiler feedwater.  Water
boils at 212*F at atmospheric pressure  (approx 14.7 psi absolute, or zero
psi gage), but the boiling point increases, as the pressure increases.  As this
is feedwater, you need to be able to *pump* this water to the boiler, and 
alas, you cannot pump steam.  The maximum temperature you can raise your
feedwater to, is slightly less than the saturated steam temperature of your
boiler drum pressure.

>Real question I am trying to answer is that I know of
>a steam engine/gen  that produces  10 kWe
>consuming  5000BTU's or 1/2 gallon per minute
>with a feedwater of 80F.

>What I want to know, is how many BTU's would
>I save if the feedwater was heated to 200F instead
>of to 80F and then fed to boiler/engine. 

You answered that yourself 350* - 80* = 270*
                                 270* X 4.2lbs = 1134 btu's

>It involves a phase change so I can't quite grok
>it. Thanks for any help..
>
>dsg
>
  Assuming you want to heat your boiler feedwater to improve cycle
effeciency, it REALLY depends on where you get your source of heat to
heat the feedwater.   You don't get something for nothing. 
  There are many methods you can use to increase overall effeciency, but
more information is needed.  If you have any more questions, or if I mis-
-understood your question, feel free to email me. (Kjones@interlynx.net)

K. Jones
   


From jim111@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:51 EST 1996
Article: 43028 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jim111@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:40:33 -0800
Organization: Netcom
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toby@Horton-Brasses.com wrote:
> 
> Interesting puzzle:
> 
> We drill thin (.016") curved, work-hardened yellow brass. Need a .219"
> hole. These are furniture backplates, so the hole needs to be bur free
> and the drill can't catch when it goes through, ripping the metal.
> 
> Currently we use bits specially sharpened so they cut out the edge
> cleanly. But the solution would seem to be a very high speed drill.
> 
> However, HS drillpresses all seem to have a chuck that only goes up to
> .16"
> 
> So. . . Is there a more robust HS drillpress available that we haven't
> been able to find? Special bits for thin (curved) stock?
> 
> Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves
> makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.
> 
> Thanks for any input,
> T. RockwellTurn the .219 shank down to .16 on a lathe.
I have done this many times to make drills fit my R8 collets
on my mills.
                                         Jim


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 13:56:52 EST 1996
Article: 43029 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Free Milling Machine (repost)
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:16:42 -0500
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD
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In rec.crafts.metalworking, mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) writes:
>Greetings,
>Happy Thanksgiving
>Dave Ficken

Hey Dave,
Your posts are showing up on the net later than you think from what
I see.  Happy thanksgiving came on December 5 and your earlier post
asked for a response almost immediately if not sooner.  I'm not that
far from you either if that should make any difference.
For what its worth
Regards,
Ken
Bethesda, MD


From knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 13:56:53 EST 1996
Article: 43030 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Grinding Again
Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:06:43 -0500
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NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil

Speaking of grinding, well we were once...

Does anyone know if the pulsating torque from a single phase
motor could contribute to the "dishing" that I and at least
one otherr person have had with their surface grinding.
A three phase motor would be much better in this respect and
I am considering buying one and re connecting my motor/rotary-
phase-convertor back up to test this hypothesis.  If you have
1/2 horsepower coming out in 1 horsepower bursts at 50% duty
cycle it seems it could make belts vibrate (mine do) and all
other kinds of nasty things happen.  Seems like nothing is
simple once you grow up.

Ken,
Bethesda, MD


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:54 EST 1996
Article: 43031 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:29:37 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
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Van Baker wrote:
> 
> I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned Kitts (Kitts Industrial Tools, Detroit,
> 800-521-6579, in the FAQ).  While I've only ordered a couple of times (just getting
> warmed up), service was good, came in a week (UPS), order complete.  They're
> certainly no MSC, but for selected items beat the price significantly (DTI ~$78,
> MSC same brand/model on sale for $99. for example).  Just another possibility.
> 
> Happy comparing!
> Van

I'll second that about Kitts. I've been dealing with them for many
years. They have a lot of good buys. I got a real nice Starrett
machinist's square set (with centering head and protractor head) from
them.

Grand Supply also known as Quad is another supplier that has some good
sales from time to time. They have good buys on 30 and 40 taper tooling
as well as collets. I've also gotten great buys on drill rod and ground
stock from them too.

Jay


From akgideon@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:55 EST 1996
Article: 43032 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Alan K. Gideon" <akgideon@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Browning vs. Bluing
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:03:37 -0500
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I understand that a process called "browning" was used as a surface
protection for rifle barrels in the 19th century, like bluing is now. 
I've seen the result, but I'm not too sure about trying it just because
it is advertised as "historically accurate."  What time frame was it
used in?  Why is it no longer used; simply because bluing produces a
prettier finish?  Is there some hidden failure mode, like crevice
corrosion, to worry about?  Exploding gun barrels are not a fun thing to
think about.

Thanks.

-- 
Alan K. Gideon, P.E. | Naval Architect & Marine Engineer
                     | akgideon@mindspring.com

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest.  The ugliest is that man 
who thinks nothing is worth fighting or dying for, and lets men 
better and braver than himself protect him."   --   John Stuart Mill




From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 13:56:56 EST 1996
Article: 43033 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how to get that 1000 lb machine into your garage?
Date: 1 Dec 1996 02:06:07 GMT
Organization: (missing)
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In message <329fabe9.0@mournblade.ptw.com> - frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch
R. Williams)Sat, 30 Nov 1996 04:45:09 GMT writes:
:->Gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "heavy metal".
:->
:->Fitch
:->

I know a guy who once had a 4 foot X 4 foot (!) capacity bandsaw, I
wonder what that weighed? He did say the blade had 1 tooth every 2
inches...hmmm.

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From Sue_and_Alan_French@msn.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:57 EST 1996
Article: 43034 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Sue & Alan French" <Sue_and_Alan_French@msn.com>
Subject: Setting Up and Restoring Lathe
Message-ID: <01bbdf36$45f47fa0$54032399@default>
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 19:20:17 -0800
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Lines: 7

	I have an old 9" South Bend that has not been used in some time.  What
things should I lubricate (and with what) and what else should I pay
attention to as I put it back together and get it into operation?
						Clear skies, Alan


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:56:59 EST 1996
Article: 43035 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: 3 Dec 1996 22:44:08 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
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	There is also a screw in the middle of the backgear
	shaft housing behind the drive pully, almost i line with the
	oil screw in the steped pulley on the head stock.  On my
	lathe it has a gasket on it, so I remove it  and I fill it
	up with oil. 
	
That's the hole I meant, along with the one in the drive pully on the
spindle. The current recommendation from SBL is to use Teflon grease,
and I was wondering about the best way to introduce same.

My plan was to remove the screw(s) and gaskets, install a zerk, grease
it up, replace the screws. But there's no such thing as a 1/4-20 zerk. 

However ... I have a lathe, so I can make an adapter!


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:00 EST 1996
Article: 43036 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Die Filer Files
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:49:01 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32A7899D.6448@ix.netcom.com>
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To: Darrell Collins <dcollin@goodnet.com>

thats because most people have stopped using them
in a comercial application 20 years ago

ap



Darrell Collins wrote:
> 
> Where can I find files for a Keller Model No. 1A Die-Filer?
> 
> I have looked in MSC, Penn, and Enco catalogues, but find nothing.
> 
> Thank you,
> Darrell


From w4npx@m6.sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:01 EST 1996
Article: 43037 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: "Robert H. Blodinger" <w4npx@m6.sprynet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Grizzly Gear-Head Mill/Drill
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 22:19:42 -0400
Organization: Sprynet
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Can anyone out there (not connected with Grizzly and with experience on
the machine) tell me anything about the quality of the Grizzly G1126
Gear Head Mill/Drill.

Please email to me direct.  Thanks in advance

BOB
-- 
Robert H. Blodinger
email to: "w4npx@m6.sprynet.com"
or "73522.1037@compuserve.com"

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/W4NPX


From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:02 EST 1996
Article: 43038 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ptd.net!newsmaster
From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Learn something new every project
Date: 5 Dec 1996 23:50:59 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32a8839d.833377@news.ptd.net>
References: <329CF523.2781E494@sweng.stortek.com> <01bbe12b.209687c0$4cc1c2d0@pyroware.flash.net> <32A63D94.60A4@cyberhighway.net>
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Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:

Offering castings for Dave Gingery's projects.  

Lathe castings        $175
with ground flats     $250


Shaper castings       $175
with ground flats     $250

Mill castings         $175
with ground flats     $250

Drill Press castings  $175

Saw a Gingery type shaper in May-powered by a hit-n-miss engine-at a
show in
Jerome AZ.  It sure made chips fly.


Can you get them cast iron, or are they  aluminum like in his books ?


From gearhead+@andrew.cmu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:57:03 EST 1996
Article: 43039 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Nathan J Nagel <gearhead+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Thu,  5 Dec 1996 22:51:20 -0500
Organization: Security, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:43039 rec.autos.tech:207481

Excerpts from netnews.rec.autos.tech: 4-Dec-96 Re: Hole in the wheel is
to.. by "J. Dunn" <"DunnIn@bc.sy 
>  
> You guys are all wrong about the centre hole in the wheel.Have you not 
> noticed that its the perfect size to hold your beer when your doing 
> your brakes.

So what do you do if you have a five-bolt Bug?

nate 


From mark@mortonmachinery.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:04 EST 1996
Article: 43040 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: mark@mortonmachinery.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Free Technical Library
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:23:14 GMT
Organization: Morton Machinery Company of Los Angeles
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

I've seen some postings on technical reading.  There is a HUGE library (above 50,000
volumes) in Silver Spring, Maryland belonging to MDNA (Machinery Dealers National
Association). All you need is to find your local MDNA member who is a friendly dealer,
and ask him to do you a favor and request a certain manual.  They'll mail it directly to 
him and you can borrow it (although he's still responsible for it!).  

If you need to find a membership directory of MDNA members in your area, call 
301-585-9494 and ask for a 1996 Buyer's Guide.

--- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Company
Visit us at www.mortonmachinery.com


From aandrlee@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:05 EST 1996
Article: 43041 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Polishing Aluminium
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:33:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I've had amazing luck using simichrome paste from a company called
Competition Chemicals. good luck


From aandrlee@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:07 EST 1996
Article: 43042 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: aandrlee@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: :Monarch Lathe
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:44:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Monarch may not be the ideal source for parts. A new tailstock for my 1969
10EE lathe costs :

						$13,300.00!!!!!!


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:08 EST 1996
Article: 43043 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:34:33 GMT
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Lines: 17
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <5887op$272@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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>Sounds like a lot of work.  Why not just get the boiler kit from PM research.
>Tom

Well, building the PM boiler is a lot of work too. It has flues which may
make it more work. It also uses tables for fuel which are not cheap.
They also start at over 100 dollars and I could build this one from scape
for very little. I would have to buy the heating elements, but the PM
boiler does not have any either.

chuck sherwood


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From jcranegt90@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:09 EST 1996
Article: 43044 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jcranegt90@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: moveable quill
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:57:45 GMT
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i agree with jon . i to have an old van norman .if yours is anything like
mine i think you will find it impractal if not imposable. pardon the
spelling as i am just getting over a bad case of the flu.i got as far as
converting it to use r8 tooling because i could not find any original
tooling and the teper was close to begin with. jamie

jcranegt90


From chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca Tue Dec 17 13:57:10 EST 1996
Article: 43045 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What size diodes?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:11:09 GMT
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Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

Anybody tried this?

Chris



From wooda@gaia.ecs.csus.edu Tue Dec 17 13:57:12 EST 1996
Article: 43046 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Alan Wood" <wooda@gaia.ecs.csus.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 04:55:15 GMT
Organization: Global Valley Internet, Sacramento
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Peter Wiley <peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au> wrote in article
<E1xJCG.334@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>...

> >
> >Do you all work for Microsoft?
> 
> Nah, we're not *that* bad.
> 
> The rule those guys use is, if it *compiles*, then ship it. And sometimes
> I doubt they even check that.
> 
> Peter Wiley
	Of course I once bought a compiler (not Microsofts) that included a sample
program that if they had bothered to compile in huge memory model would
have revealed a major bug in the compiler!
Alan Wood



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:14 EST 1996
Article: 43047 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:26:13 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 49
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


>	The Amateur's lathe by L. H. sparey, Argus Books.
>	The Amateur's workshop by Ian Bradley, Argus Books.
>	Screwcutting In the Lathe, Martin Cleeve, Argus Books.

>I just received my copies of these. I ordered them via TEE Publications;
>they have a Compuserve account, and also a new web site:

>	http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/
>	
>They drop ship to the US once a month, around the 15th. I ordered at the
>beginning of November and they arrived yesterday. Overall cost for the
>three books was #28, or about $45 by today's exchange rate.

>Haven't had a chance to look at them thoroughly, but they seem to be a
>nice addition ... once you get past the fairly outdated parts about
>wiring a shop in the UK...

The wiring is dated, but the use of small DC motors to power
small tools like lathe carriage mounted drills or small
carriage mounted grinders or milling cutters is not so far
out of date.  The Surplus Center Catalog has a number of
small DC motors that could be used for these purposes, and
some relatively inexpensive small controllers to run them.  

Some of the small DC motors have very high rpms so are
better for grinders or relatively small cutters unless the
gear ratios get pretty big.  Might not be to hard to make a
thread grinder or tool post grinder using one.  Still, they
also have some DC gear motors that aren't to expensive.

If one had a source of inexpensive diamond laps, and could
machine a suitable hum, a couple of those small DC motors
might make a homebrew Carbide cutter grinder similar to the
Glendo machine.  Or maybe one could use a higher powered one
to make a cold saw.  

The authors of those books have a lot of wisdom to share.  I
think you have some real good reading ahead of you.  All the
postings about books I got them off the shelf and have been
working my way through them again.  It turns out I missed a
lot the first time through.

Fitch





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:16 EST 1996
Article: 43048 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:26:33 GMT
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Ron Eastes <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU> wrote:

>russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler) wrote:
>>In article <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu>,
>>
>>>If it works, it's production. If it doesn't work, you are still testing.
>>
>>If you're not sure it works it's beta.
>>

>Russ,

>My programs "ALWAYS WORK". No beta versions for me. It's just those pesky 
>unanticipated results that seem to seek me out.

>As I've always said, computers were designed for programmers to play 
>with. They were never intended to be used by real people, to do 
>productive work.

>Ron

Yeah, isn't that the truth, and if those darn users wouldn't
cruddy up the server disks with their *data*, they wouldn't
need reorganizing, the SW configuration would be perfect,
and us hackers could have the full response of the system to
support our hacks - er - customized batch files to send our
jobs to the front of the printe queue - uh I meann't to
*optimize* printer queing for minimum wait times ..., and
such like of course.

Wasn't much of anything would mess up a disk farm like a
bunch of *users* fussing with ORACLE to create *Management
Information*, and sending E-mail using All-In-1 (SW
optimized to sell disks it was for sure) to crow about it to
each other.

Course to day, it is all done jillions of strategically
distributed NT choked  Pentium Servers with carefully word
smithed VU graphs with 5 or less bullets which are passed
infront of glassey eyed audiences lulled into meeting
nintendo induced state of semisommulent comma waiting to see
whose bladder gives out first for the boss to indicate if he
"likes" this or not.

Meetings, the practical alternative to work, brought to you
in color by Microsoft PowerPoint with Visio Express
graphics, object embedding and linking, and system errors
with no choice but to "press any key to lose data"!!!

This *is* progress.  Right?

Fitch
Wondering what was wrong with typewriters, mimeograph
machines, sliderules, and time to think once in a while as
opposed to continual cerebral knee jerks just to keep up
with our ability to produce charts and coordinate meeting
schedules?  Well, thinking is good, isn't it, it used to be,
what has changed except we don't seem to have any time for
it any more?







From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:17 EST 1996
Article: 43049 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT ARE YOU MAKING when you're not watching the Altavoz/Jens flame war?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:25:32 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32a7ac53.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <56mdoa$e3q@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> <32911d4e.197595543@news.islandnet.com> <56o0gt$319@news3.snfc21.pacbell.net> <570979$q9b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <57vgmd$pi1@news1.channel1.com> <581ev0$gl8@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca> <583qu0$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
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glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford) wrote:

>In article <581ev0$gl8@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>, Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com 
>says...
>>Only one 454 ?

>Hey, it was a county fair, and these guys were amatuers and dabblers,
>not the fanatic commercialists you see in stadiums nowadays...

>On the TV, I've seen some with 6 or 8 engines, and I won't even get into
>the jet engine powered ones...
>                                                   --Glenn

Last time I saw one of these on TV old Art Afrons (one of
the original Allison engined dragster guys from the 50s or
was it 60s) was still at it with a twin jet powered rig.  I
think he was injecting something the the engine exhausts to
make fire, they sure shot a lot of flame.  Very spectacular.

Really tilled some dirt.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:19 EST 1996
Article: 43050 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to...
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:25:48 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <32a7ac6a.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <19961201005700.TAA05780@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961204015200.UAA19837@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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gunner312@aol.com wrote:

>Rule #1 of Project completion:  NEVER tell the spouse what it costs, only
>"It'l sure look nice when it's done won't it hon?

>Rule #2 of project completion:  Projects are never done, only in various
>stages of completion.  Some at the in-use stage and others in the re-do
>stage.

>Rule #3 of Project completion:  Be sure to have as many as possible going
>at one time. That way yer better half'l never be able to tell what cost
>what,  besides who cares, it's not the money - it's the fun! (and the
>sense of accomplishment when that 1949 Cadibaker finally rolls out the
>door under its own power.)

The first project my Dad did with the 9" SB back in 1950
when he bought it was to make some parts for that big old
square lock on the back door.  I stood on a stool to watch.
He had a thing about locks and would fix them if they broke.

It took him a couple of evenings of fun to get the thing
fixed.  He proudly took Mom to show her how nicely the lock
worked.  She made a light, but slightly pointed remark about
how many tools it had taken to do that.  

I'll never forget my Dads dead serious reply "Louise, it
only cost $943.25 to fix that lock.  And every thing I do
with that Lathe from now on is free!"  (I don't remember the
exact number).  They had a good laugh about that many times
over the years.  

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:20 EST 1996
Article: 43051 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Neophyte needs advice
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:34:33 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32a7ae6e.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <01bbdfec$b9141e80$0c6b60ce@default>
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"Brent Williams" <ecc@inscorp.com> wrote:

>I am a graphic designer that would like to do some sculpture that requires
>some light welding. Are there books that could get me started? Where else
>might I get instruction in metal work without going throug a complete
>machinists course? Any help is welcome, Thanx in advance....B.

The Lincoln Electric published book I mentioned to you in my
E-mail is the "Procedural Handbook of Arc Welding".
Wonderful book on electric welding.

Fitch
I write these off line - just before I got back on I noticed
my E-mail reply didn't make it, couldn't understand all the
header to find out why.



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:21 EST 1996
Article: 43052 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The wages of ---
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:27:47 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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References: <alshinn-2311962227500001@ppp092-sf2.sirius.com> <5843hm$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
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glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford) wrote:

>In article <alshinn-2311962227500001@ppp092-sf2.sirius.com>, 
>alshinn@sirius.com says...
>>

>>> My latest reward for cleaning up a pile of junk (so I could get at the
>>> wood of my computer bench up in the attic to reinforce a sag) was to 
>find
>>> my dial test indicator! Hooray, I have been wanting it badly but just
>>> didn't have a clue where to start looking, Never, ever would have 
>tried
>>> looking there! I love it when such an obnoxious task as tidying up 
>grants
>>> such a great reward!!

>Sounds like we use the same filing system...  :^) :^) :^)
>                                                     --Glenn

Folks, pileing is *OK*.  After all, pileing rhymes with
filing.  Could such a profound occurrance be a mere
conicidence?

Of course not!

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:22 EST 1996
Article: 43053 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:28:56 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32a7ad22.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <19961129160500.LAA07488@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961130032000.WAA17871@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57pi7j$feb@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <jriser-3011961137280001@usr1ip49.azstarnet.com> <32a1e4ec.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <57vql2$79m@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>Fitch, that was almost more than I wanted to know about turttles, high vrs low altitudes, at 
>higher levels I would expect the compressor to run longer, but be loaded lighter[ thinner air 
>= easier to compress], at the Dead Sea it would have its work cut out for it. Cheers Bob

Yup.  That about says it.  If you'd written the handbook, I
wouldn't have a head ache.

Was more than I wanted to know too, just couldn't seem to
stop till I had it figured out.  I hate being outwitted by a
few cfms and psigs - on the surface they don't seem more
complicated than a deep breath, but if you dig ....  bettter
idea, don't dig.

Fitch
Considering a new rule - If you find yourself in a hole, the
*most* important thing is to stop digging.  yeah ... thats
it.



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:23 EST 1996
Article: 43054 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:29:18 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32a7ad39.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe0bf$29021bc0$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <32a51bde.1964092@news.sprynet.com> <582re9$3hc@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32a5c76a.859422075@news.islandnet.com>
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth) wrote:

>>And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
>>is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
>>that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
>>grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.
>>One of the illustrations shows it being used to sharpen the flutes on
>>an end mill.

>If you ever find it I wouldn't mind knowing which PIM it's in so I can
>find it in the library.

>Jens

Phil Duclos did a series on an airbearing attachment for
sharpening milling cutters using a mill in HSM - its in the
book "Shop Wisdom of Phil Duclos" oon page 24 .

The PIM one was a home made version of the DAREX air bearing
cutter grinder with the air bearing spindle based on the one
done by Phil duclos.  It appeared in two issues - the first
one just had pictures and a description.  After much mail to
the editor, the fellow was persuaded to prepare and provid a
set of drawings in a subsequent issue - not a small task.  I
don't remember which issues those were, but it may have been
in the 1990 - 1992 time frame.  I would guess that it was
later included in one of the PIM summary books, the Metal
Working series from Village press - but I only have book 1
which ends in 1989.  It was a cleverly done grinder.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific - the issues are in that
darn box I need to unearth before I go nuts.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:24 EST 1996
Article: 43055 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:31:47 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32a7adce.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32a1e89d.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32a35557.633613701@news.islandnet.com> <32a235c3.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <Pine.OSF.3.95.961202200802.880A-100000@saul5.u.washington.edu>
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Thank you all for filling that divot in my mental media.

Fitch

Jeffrey Prothero <jsp@u.washington.edu> wrote:

>Quod est Demonstratum.........That which is to be demonstrated.
>Used at the end of proofs.
>			Cheers,

>On Mon, 2 Dec 1996, Fitch R. Williams wrote:

>> psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>> 
>> >frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> >>QED
>> >>
>> >>Fitch
>> 
>> 
>> >QED ?????
>> 
>> I forget the exact latin quote, it appeared at the end of
>> proofs in some of my college math classes like LInear
>> Algebra and Advanced Calculus most of which I would find
>> very confusing now except for the few parts I use
>> frequently!
>> 
>> Fitch
>> 
>> 
>> 





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:25 EST 1996
Article: 43056 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:27:22 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32a7acc4.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <582afo$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <19961205015501.UAA15297@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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lwc1220@aol.com wrote:

>Quality is like buying oats,
>        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

>However, 
>        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
>the horse...
>                          
>That comes a little cheaper...

Wayne,

Thanks, I needed that!

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:26 EST 1996
Article: 43057 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:28:22 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32a7ad01.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <32a3c256.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961204022400.VAA20438@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32a3c256.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>Going off to study flashlight wiring, its quieter than
>>doorbells ... anybody even whispers "adiabatic" I'm gonna
>>shine my light in their eyes ...
>>
>>

>Adiabatic, Isn't that a large sea or ocean somewhere over Europe way?

>Besides you don't scare me, if you are wiring the flashlight (or torch as
>we call it) you can't shine it in anyone's eyes.

>WOW, I own the world's first 129.7% efficient compressor. Should I be
>worried that when the nozzle is turned off it might be feeding electricity
>back into the grid.

>Peter

No, but I wouldn't leave it with out the nozzel turned off.
Theres no telling what it eats to generate those horses,
sure isn't any KW I've ever seen.  

Fitch
Wonder if it has a 129.7% efficient smoke bushing too?





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:27 EST 1996
Article: 43058 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:29:56 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <32a7ad61.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <32A3F227.3687@ldl.net> <19961204165700.LAA03627@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32A5E726.C1D@voyager.net>
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Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net> wrote:

>pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> In article <32A3F227.3687@ldl.net>, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes:

>> 
>> >Http://roasted.crow
>> 
>> Gotta ask. Roasted Crow???
>> 
>> Peter
>> Licking lips and reaching for the Ketchup.

>Wow!! you guys would just love it around here 'cause we got crows as big
>as planes!!!

>Brian Perry in Michigan

Yup.  You do.  Grew up in Traverse City.  The Michigan crows
can count to three too.  You go hunting them with four
people, one can leave to sneak up on them and they won't
know the difference.  Try it with three, and they *will* fly
away.  

Fitch



From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:28 EST 1996
Article: 43059 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!140.174.229.1!sun.sirius.com!ppp107-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Working Homepage
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:54:11 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <alshinn-0512962154110001@ppp107-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <32A5A584.52DD@mail.lafn.org>
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <32A5A584.52DD@mail.lafn.org>, "Ed. Roberts"
<bc317@mail.lafn.org> wrote:

> For those of you who have interest, I just found the home page for 
> "MODERN MACHINE SHOP".  It's at:
> 
> http://www.gardnerweb.co
> 
> Lots of info on metal working related topics.
> 
> Ed. Roberts

All:
that's:
 http://www.gardnerweb.co/

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:29 EST 1996
Article: 43060 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: PotMetal ?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 05:47:19 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
Lines: 9
Sender: kopfj@mailhub.aimnet.com
Message-ID: <588c17$rs5@news.aimnet.com>
References: <e6weo0Qw0tsA071yn@cybernet.dk>  
 <E1vyIJ.78L@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-cup3-22.iway.aimnet.com
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X-Authenticated: kopfj on POP host mailhub.aimnet.com

In a previous article, jalling@cybernet.dk (niels jalling) says:
> 
>What exactly is PotMetal ??

According to Holtzapffel (1843, England), Pot metal is an allow of
copper and lead; 4-8 parts lead to 16 parts copper...used for making
COOKING pots (What would OSHA say!)

JK


From mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:30 EST 1996
Article: 43061 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com (Mark McDade)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Watch Your Feet
Date: 6 Dec 1996 06:08:46 GMT
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Yet another little safety warning/story - this one with a
relatively happy ending.

A friend brought over a 3 hp. motor with a 1.25" shaft
and a 5" pulley made for a 1" shaft.  We put the pulley in
the 4-jaw and bored it out pretty as you please.  I was just
finished with the last .0005" and unscrewed the chuck and
took the whole thing, chuck and pulley, over to the workbench
to try it on the motor.  The good news was that it fit
beautifully - the bad news is that when I started to pull
it off the motor, the motor, chuck and pulley all came
off the bench onto my left little toe - ouch!  Fortunately,
nothing's broken - either mechanical or human.  We did
the rest of the work - recutting the keyway - with the motor
on the floor!  I'll be walking on the heel of my left foot
for a few days.

--
Mark McDade - mmcdade@sybase.com


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:31 EST 1996
Article: 43062 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!news.aimnet.com!news
From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 05:51:06 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
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Sender: kopfj@mailhub.aimnet.com
Message-ID: <588c8a$rs5@news.aimnet.com>
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 <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com>
bohigas@aol.com writes:

> For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?

A medeval mechanical computer/"surveying instrument"...contained a star
chart so you could hold it up to the sky and twist some bits to find
directions (e.g., the arab caravans used it extensively to find Mecca;
also used for navigation).

JK


From mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:33 EST 1996
Article: 43063 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com (Mark McDade)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: free thread grinder: should I take it??
Date: 6 Dec 1996 06:12:15 GMT
Organization: privateI, LLC
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Well, Andy and Ray both posted their opinions.  I think they
are both right - depends on what you want to do with your
life.  If you want to turn metal then this isn't the way to
do it - yet again, if you are awestruck by machinery like
most of us, you can't possible say no!

Mark

mmcdade@sybase.com
------------------
vantonova@aol.com wrote:
: About half a mile from my house there is a guy who is giving away a
: threadgrinder. It looks kinda like a lathe with a huge toolpost grinder
: (20HP motor).  It looks like a 4'x15". Don't know manufacturer. It's
: RUSTY. He will give me a nice 4-jaw chuck for $30 if I take it. It
: probably weighs 2 tons. Should I take it? (I have been looking for a
: lathe) Thanks for any suggestions.

: Alex.



From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:34 EST 1996
Article: 43064 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 06:37:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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You mean you haven't bought it yet?

Cecil in OK


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:35 EST 1996
Article: 43065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 3 Dec 1996 15:28:19 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <57v9uf$4ss@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter
Brooks) writes:

>Pete:  Who has been known to drop his jaw at seeing one of his 5000 line 
>wonders compile the first attempt.
>
>

I kneel in the prescence of the great.

Peter
Ever humble.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:36 EST 1996
Article: 43066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on Jet 1860 lathe
Date: 3 Dec 1996 15:28:20 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <57vjrp$8i3@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
<packrat@proaxis.com> writes:

>(P.S. sorry this is late; my newsserver has been down for four days.)
>
>

Wondered 'bout that, thought you might have been trapped on the floor
under that chuck.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:38 EST 1996
Article: 43067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" lathe owners input
Date: 3 Dec 1996 15:28:21 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <57vubh$mt9@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) writes:

>BTW I'm not Atlas bashing. The first Lathe I ever owned was a 618 Atlas
>that I inherited from my Dad- it got me hooked on machinery.
>R

Tsk, tsk Dave, blaming your poor old Dad for your current predicament. <g>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:39 EST 1996
Article: 43068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 3 Dec 1996 15:28:22 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <01bbe0b8$3fc4ffa0$5e263ece@radix.wwnet.com>, "w.j.ward"
<radix@wwnet.com> writes:

>I would like to cut left-hand threads on my little Taiwanese lathe, but I
>have to reverse the feed screw.  I think I could do that rather easily,
but
>I would need to obtain one of the change gear bearings.  This is a keyed
>bushing of about 1cm in diameter.  I don't know how to machine such a
part,
>since the key protrudes out from the bushing.  It must have been molded. 
>Has anyone else been able to get these parts?
>-

It may well be the same as the parts on a Jet lathe. Try Jet as they seem
to carry a good range of spares for their lathes. Their prices on spares
are good too. If you can't find a phone number give a yell and I will go
looking for you on my PhoneDisk CDs.

Peter



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:40 EST 1996
Article: 43069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:34:49 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris ) wrote:

>Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
>rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
>in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
>There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
>around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.
>
>Anybody tried this?

I haven't tried it but I doubt it VERY much - try at least twice that
for capacity of the diodes and you will probably be able to keep the
smoke bottled up (it doesn't work without the smoke and once it leaks
out you can't stuff it back in)

Jens


From Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com Tue Dec 17 13:57:41 EST 1996
Article: 43070 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT ARE YOU MAKING when you're not watching the Altavoz/Jens flame war?
Date: 3 Dec 1996 14:54:24 GMT
Organization: Develcon Electronics Ltd.
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In article <57vgmd$pi1@news1.channel1.com>, glyford@us1.channel1.com says...
>
>In article <570979$q9b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com says...
>>classmates was telling me about the (to me, brand new) sport of tractor
>>pulling.  One of the tractors used the Allison, though I have no info on
>>the rest.
>
>Saw one of these out in upstate NY about 10 years back...
>Put out about the same as a 454 w/a blower, but I don't know what the
>gearing differences were...

Only one 454 ?  Tractor pulls are quite popular around here for
some reason ;).  Some of the tractors are quite impressive. I've
seen units with 4 (!) large engines,  all hopped up, each driving
a wheel (somehow).  These things have POWER.  I think many of you
who have interest in one V8 in a 2 (or 3) wheeled contraption would
also be interested in these monster tractors.

BTW,  the pull events have several categories just like other motor
sports.  The 4 engine jobs compete in 'unlimited' class,  not in
any 'production' classes :)

dave

Saskatoon Canada,  only a few hours north of North Dakota,
                   home of wheat, oats, barley ... hm, I'm
                   getting thirsty for some reason,  gotta go !



From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:44 EST 1996
Article: 43071 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 12:37:35 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <581cfo$ck3@bluto.accesscomm.net>,
   geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson) wrote:
snip-

>I think you would find almost any aluminum alloy somewhere on an
>aircraft.  I believe the alloys usually refered to aircraft aluminum
>are 2024 and 7075.  These are high strenght alloys, but, neither one
>anodizes very well.  My choice for a flashlight housing would be 6061.
>
>George Carlson   KC5RCC
>Geotek Design Services
>geotek@accesscomm.net
>

Since 6061 is about 1/4 the price of 7075, it would be my choice for a 
flashlight too.


From lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au Tue Dec 17 13:57:45 EST 1996
Article: 43072 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!128.250.1.21!munnari.OZ.AU!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!aurora.cc.monash.edu.au!not-for-mail
From: lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au (Lachie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Photo-etching brass
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:00:01 +1100
Organization: Monash University
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Would anyone be able to offer advice on photo-etching brass sheet for 
model making? I want to produce HO scale carriage sides, preferably using 
this technique, and using AutoCAD to produce the masks.

Any advice on reagents, mask design, limitations of the process (or 
alternatives) or even on reference books would be appreciated.

Many thanks,
-- 
***************************************412***********************************
Lachie A'Vard               + 1/10 Nelson St + lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au
Freelance Theatrical Genius + Ringwood VIC   + Ph +61 3 9879 6309
(who'd rather drive trains) + Australia 3134 + (part time bikie fiend)
-- 
***************************************412***********************************
Lachie A'Vard               + 1/10 Nelson St + lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au
Freelance Theatrical Genius + Ringwood VIC   + Ph +61 3 9879 6309
(who'd rather drive trains) + Australia 3134 + (part time bikie fiend)


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:46 EST 1996
Article: 43073 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Watch Your Feet
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:34:53 -0800
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mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com (Mark McDade) wrote:

> Fortunately,
>nothing's broken - either mechanical or human.

How about your pride ?????

Jens


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:48 EST 1996
Article: 43074 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing (and service)
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 08:36:20 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32A448F4.EF6@cyberhighway.net>
References: <01bbe00a$f8c0cba0$cc0135cf@ray-abadie> <19961202165300.LAA15736@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe0a4$6ebf26a0$5f0135cf@ray-abadie> <01bbe0cb$9c8e6060$015cefce@scshome>
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To: Steve Stallings <steves@emailaddress.com>

Steve Stallings wrote:
> ...
> That being said, I recently had an interesting experience with
> MSC. 

Several months ago I bought (from the sale catalog) a 3", 4-jaw,
5C mounting, chuck made by Sherline, a good price.

A couple of months later they advertised a ssimilar sale.  I liked
the 4-jaw so much I ordered a 4", 3-jaw, 5C chuck.  They didn't
say it was a Ssherline - my problem - it wasn't.  Some chinese
brand.  Spend the better part of the afternoon deburring, etc.  
Wouldn't make a flea on the Sherline's tail...  That's what I get 
for reading something into the advertisement.  They had made no claim...

> It arrived the next day as usual; however it was not quite t.......
> .......I figured that for the price 

Caveat Emptor  (see Fitch - I took lating too.)

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:49 EST 1996
Article: 43075 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: where did I see it?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:44:48 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32A43CE0.4F35@cyberhighway.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.91.961202184232.12396B-100000@home.iis.com.br>
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To: Eduardo Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br>

Eduardo Haddad Filho wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I've recently saw the pictures and drawings for an attachment for those
> simple drill sharpeners, like General's, which moves the sharpener
> forward and backwards so that both drill's lips have the same length.
> 
> But I just can't rememeber where I saw it.
> I subscribe to PIM, HSM and Engineering in Miniature.
> I don't know if I saw it there or in some book (I've looked in the
> magazines, but couldn't find it).
> Does someone here know if I'm missing something?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Eduardo Haddad Filho
> ehaddadf@iis.com.br

Try "The Shop Wisdom of Frank Mcclean" 

Wwhile you are there look over the digital height gage.
You make a couple of pieces and attach your $60 digital
caliper.  Works great!

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:50 EST 1996
Article: 43076 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:21:17 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:

>Quoted from the local paper:

>LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.

>This worth a second look? Opinions?

>Jim Waggener

Whoops, I was a day late and a dollar short (again!)
The lathe was sold to the first comer.
The guy who owned it said it was purchased at auction
>from  one of the local high schools.

ANOTHER school shop course bites the dust.

Jim Waggener



From k9opo@netusa1.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:51 EST 1996
Article: 43077 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: k9opo@netusa1.net (Roger Grady)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 23:00:05 GMT
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Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com> wrote:

>phony wrote:
>> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>>Why did they ever do it that way?
>>
>Cooling. The lubricants of the time were lousy. Spinning the cylinders was
>an 'elegant' solution.

As were the carburetors. Wasn't it the Gnome rotary that had no
throttle control? The pilot reduced power for landing by switching the
ignition on and off.

Roger Grady




From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:52 EST 1996
Article: 43078 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Taig notes
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:15:41 GMT
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In article <586lfu$l8s@cwis-20.wayne.edu> mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman) writes:

>I've had my Taig lathe for a couple of weeks now, and I'm having a
>*lot* of fun with it...
an important point about the Taig, it's fun!
>It's simpler and cruder than the Sherline,
I'd use the word "utilitarian" rather than "crude"
> and the 1/10th HP motor 
>they threw in is not as zippy as the speed-controlled 1/4HP DC motor of the
>Sherline,
Go get a surplus 1/4 HP motor and mount it, save the 1/10 for another project,
make sure the belt is always tight. I can take a .050 cut with carbide on 
ledloy (c12L14) with no chatter.

> and it lacks the feedscrew and calibrated feed...but for half the 
>price it's pretty darn good.  I've been spending a few evening sessions
>aquainting myself with the lath and making accessories. 
The best learning experience you can get!

>First thing I made was a plastic shield that fits between the motor and the
>lathe; don't want any chips flying in there. Next step was to modify a
>blank mandrel to hold a 3/8" mill. I bored it out to 3" and added a setscrew.
>Simple, and cheap. The blanks are $2.70 each; I've just ordered another 3
>for other projects, including a slitting saw arbor.
1132 Blank arbor is only $1.40, I suspect you are buying the 1130, which has a 
screw in it. Use the 1132!

>Next will be a tool holder for 1/4" round tools, mainly for boring. Should
>be easy. Then I'm going to see if I can come up with a way to make a 
>flycutter from a blank mandrel.
saw of the end at an angle, mill a 1/4" slot, add some setscews and voila!

Can you tell I love my Taig?


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:53 EST 1996
Article: 43079 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Al, Polymers, Bio cutting 1/16  to 1 1/2 Inch - non plasma - non heating - minimum stress
Date: 5 Dec 1996 21:12:33 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Friends:

Are you cutting Aluminium, Polymers or Biological material (Bones) in the
region of
between 1/16 to 1 1/2 inches very often, and are looking for a non plasma,
non 
traditional cutting method, which creates a minimum of surface stress, no
known
increase in surface temperature, and a minimum of biological surface
contamination ?

We have a design on our backburner which might  just  helps you to solve
your current production problem, would you like to help us by answering
a few questions off line ?

Your help is much appreciated.


Alberto Bohigas










From gedwards@onramp.net Tue Dec 17 13:57:55 EST 1996
Article: 43080 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 15:23:56 -0600
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32A73D6C.6C64@onramp.net>
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You can have a chat room and not be in AOL...Compuserve...Prodigy...etc.

They all have "limited" access to the real IRC (Internet Relay Chat)
anyway.  And if you form a group internal to any one of them...no one
outside their client group can enter into the discussion anyway.

Suggestion:  If you want a chat group open to everyone (including folks
using AOL type connects) get on the IRC.  I use an ISP (internet service
provider) and connect to one of the many undernet servers around the
world.  I use mIRC (you can download it from their home page).  This is
the client software program that you use like a browser.  You can use
Netscapes...NSChat...pIRCh...or many others.  Most of them can be
downloaded and registration is usually only $10 to $15.  

George


From ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br Tue Dec 17 13:57:56 EST 1996
Article: 43081 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Eduardo Haddad Filho <ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:51:54 -0200
Organization: Inside Information Systems
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.3.91.961203194936.10133A-100000@home.iis.com.br>
References: <01bbddc6$ca680b60$84c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe0bf$29021bc0$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>
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In the UK:

Model Engineering Services
Pipworth Farm
Pipworth Lane
Eckington
Sheffield
S31 9EY

phone: 01246 433218

great guys, but they have no fax, or e-mail.


Eduardo Haddad Filho
ehaddadf@iis.com.br


On 3 Dec 1996, Bill Harnell wrote:

> Thank you, Peter.
> 
> BTW, where is the FAQ located?
> 
> Peter Brooks <brooksp@corp.hp.com> wrote in article
> <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>...
> > Bill Harnell (bharne@adss.on.ca) wrote:
> > : I've been looking for a tool and cutter grinder kit
> such as the Quorn, or
> > : one similar to it, for some time.
> > 
> > Well, if you want the real thing, have the 300-400 for
> the castings, and the
> > time to do it, contact Power Model Supplies in Missouri. 
> (See the FAQ
> > for contacts.)  As far as I know (look Ma, no acronyms!),
> they are the only
> > US dealer for the Quorn.  Not sure who sells them in the
> UK.
> > 
> > Pete Brooks
> > 
> > 
> 
> 


From tomgrant@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 13:57:57 EST 1996
Article: 43082 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom Grant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: 5 Dec 1996 15:43:01 -0700
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On 4 Dec 1996 18:33:05 GMT, pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <582b0g$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com
>(Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>
>>If the traffic gets heavy, Tom, you can impose a retention limit on the
>>files and delete them from time to time. 
>>
>>
>
>Couln't you have a list of senders and receivers addresses? If the posting
>did not emanate from one of them then dump it.
>
>Peter
>



 Could do that, it would take a lot of time though to enter it all in.
But I believe it has already been setup with an incoming directory and
a directory called RCM. I can scan the incoming for viruses and put it
in the RCM for download. As ling as the file names are 8 characters or

less it will work fine......


Tom



From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 13:57:58 EST 1996
Article: 43083 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sand Casting Question
Date: 5 Dec 1996 23:20:19 GMT
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Kurt Schaefer (kurts@snufkin.engr.sgi.com) wrote:
: 
: > The problem arrises with the wooden models.  Even though the model 
: > is liberally coated with the talc, we still have a problem with the 
: > sand clinging to the models. This is especially true with with D
: > rings and other closed shapes.  We would preferr to use basswood for
: > the models, because it is easy to carve.  Maybe this is the problem?
: >  Do we need to paint the models?  Is wood a poor choice?
: 
: I use wood to make patterns all the time.  I do the fillet work using
: Bondo.  Then I seal the wood with a couple of coats of quick drying 
: polyurethane varnish.  Works a treat.
: 
:    Good luck!
:           -Kurt
I use tung oil and then when it's dry smooth it first with #600 emery 
paper then burnish with a steel burnisher to harden the surface and fill 
in any pores that might be left. I wonder if he keeps his sand too moist or 
doesn't tap enough before he removes the model?

Georgie





From pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:57:59 EST 1996
Article: 43084 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!mail2news.demon.co.uk!bozzie.demon.co.uk!pcd
From: pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk ("Paul C. Dickie")
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 05:07:00 GMT
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <849848820snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
References: <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100> <849497949snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk> <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au> <jesw-0412961405060001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <jesw-0512961000050001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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In article <jesw-0512961000050001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
           jesw@mitre.org "James Wilkins" writes:

>Apparently a great advantage was nearly perfect balance. Both pistons and
>cylinders spin in circles which are fixed relative to the airplane. Only
>the valve assemblies vibrate.  

However, a not inconsiderable disadvantage was that the rotating cylinders, 
etc, tended to act as a gyroscope; I understand that the precession when 
turning the aeroplane made flying the thing rather *interesting*...o-)


-- 
< Paul >
 
 



From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:00 EST 1996
Article: 43085 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 19:00:30 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
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Steve Davis wrote:
> 
> In article <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> -> check the s/n
> -> if you give me the s/n i can tell you the age
> -> if it is in halfway decent shape
> -> then BUY IT
> 
> what about a Meuser 18" (26 with gap) by 84" lathe?

WHAT ABOUT IT??


> 
> --
>   pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
> investigate,impeach,imprison,inter;socialism destroys,defund the left
>   "more laws... we can't control enough citizens without more laws"
>                          -liberal/socialist/communist mantra


From pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:58:02 EST 1996
Article: 43086 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk ("Paul C. Dickie")
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Myford Lathe
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 05:13:15 GMT
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <849849195snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
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In article <32A6253B.1CB8@worldnet.att.net>
           r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net "Rich" writes:

>Anyone out there have feedback on the Myford Lathe (Latest model, with
>respect to performance, ease of us and etc. Does that lathe have 
>power crossfeed???

That depends entirely on *which* model of Myford lathe you meant!

IIRC, their current models are Speed10, ML7R, Super 7 and 254; the latter
two have power cross-feed, though the Super 7 uses the same leadscrew for
crossfeed as for screwcutting and you might be better off with a Boxford.

-- 
< Paul >
 
 



From rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca Tue Dec 17 13:58:03 EST 1996
Article: 43087 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench Grinder Tool Rests
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:20:52 -0700
Organization: SaskNet News Distribution
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Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
> 
>         There is an article in one of the Village publishing books
>         on making such a holder.  Its a copy of the one sold by
>         South Bend which I got from my dad.
> 
> I've always admired that little holder in the South Bend publications,
> and would love to find one. Failing that, I'd love to get a more
> accurate reference to which "one of the Village publishing books"
> describes how to make one...
 I think you may be talking about "A Rocking, Swinging Grinder Table"
(great title).  It's in MetalWorking-Book 1, Projects in Metal.  Page
144, written by Harold Mason.  I built it and it works great. I found it
has a tendency to overheat the cutter - it's more difficult to "feel" if
you are trying to remove to much at a pass, it would be great with some
coolant spraying at the grind edge.


From p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu Tue Dec 17 13:58:04 EST 1996
Article: 43088 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need source of supply for wire mesh
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 01:22:02 GMT
Organization: Staff - College of Agriculture
Lines: 11
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Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net> wrote:

>I want to build small animal cages of 6-12 cubic feet. Can anybody direct 
>me to a supply source for sheets or rolls of wire mesh?

Try McNichols Co. I don't have the number in front of me but 1 800
information probably does. They are in Elk Grove Village, IL and
various other places. I have had excellent luck with them.

Phil Crome



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:05 EST 1996
Article: 43089 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plasma cutting
Date: 6 Dec 1996 01:21:55 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <jjhenry-0412961647280001@henry.med.uiuc.edu>,
jjhenry@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Jon Henry) writes:

>Can anyone provide me with some info on the various plasma cutting
torches
>available today.  What are the advantages and disadvatages of the large
>older style technology vs. inverter based machines?  I have heard lots of
>bad things about the quality and longevity of inverter based torches.  We
>have been looking at the Lincoln Pro Cut 60, which appears to be large
>sturdy machine.  Portability is not a concern here.  Anyone familiar with
>their quality or that of others?  Ultimately we would like to get
>something that can cut 1/2" steel and 1/4"aluminum plate, with a high
duty
>cycle, and will stand up for many years.
>
>Thanks for your attention and any input you might have.
>
>

  At work we got a Lincoln Pro Cut 125 based on the recommendation of our
welding supplier. While I don't know much about other brands the Lincoln
has been doing fairly well for about a year now. We use it fairly often
cutting stainless and some mild steel. We try not to use it with the hand
torch because it is rather awkward to use. It is just hard to get braced
properly in order to get a good cut. It works pretty well with the machine
torch though. We have a very old Linde plasma machine there that we used
before. It used the nitrogen and co2 mix that they all used to use. It
lasted a long time but was rather tempermental. I think that this was do
more to the old design of the electronics than anything else. I don't know
what the life of the electrode and nozzle is for other brands but the
Lincoln seems to go through more than I would expect. And they are not
that cheap either. One thing that is interesting is that we go through a
lot more nozzles when hand cutting. When machine cutting the electrode
will nearly always go out first. We had talked to a fabricating shop in
the area about what plasma to get and they said to not get several brands
that they had but really didn't recommend what to get. I'm not real sure
but I think said not to get a Miller and that their Thermal Dynamics had a
board that would go out on them but I would take this with a grain of
salt. The Lincoln seems to be well made but I have not had any experience
of the other brands to provide a good comparison for you.



   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:06 EST 1996
Article: 43090 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 01:22:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) writes:

>Quoted from the local paper:
>
>LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
>
>This worth a second look? Opinions?
>
>

  I would really want to hear it under power and do a thorough inspection
before I bought it. While I think that the LeBlonde Regal would make a
really good home shop lathe it doesn't seem to hold up well in a
industrial setting. Of the 5 lathes in the shop where I work the 15x60
LeBlonde that we have is the newest. And it is the only one that we have
ever had to replace a gear in the head stock. It is fairly easy to miss
getting it in gear by a little and thus snapping a tooth off the gear. The
gears also seem to be very expensive. It cost us more than $3,000 to
replace one gear in the head stock, one section of rack and the pinion
that runs on it, and the bevel gear that slides on the power feed rod.
Some one else might know where to get the parts cheaper and I would like
to know if they do. We could use a couple of more gears in the head stock.
As it is the lathe is fairly noisy in several of its ranges. In other
words I would check out every gear range on the lathe and do a careful
inspection of the feed rod and apron. If nothing is wrong then I would say
go for it I really like to use the one at work. It is a lot easier to use
than some of the really heavy stuff that we have.

Hope this helps

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:58:07 EST 1996
Article: 43091 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Master Precision Level
Date: 6 Dec 1996 07:40:02 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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There were some people looking for the $49 Master Precision Level
>from  MSC.  I am told that they are all gone.  But, J & L Industrial
Supply has a December sale going with several nice items.
They have a Chinese 8" Master Precision Level, One division =
.0005" / 10", which is more sensitive than the Soviet one I've got.
Has a hand scraped base, with vee for placing on round surfaces,
cross vial, wooden case, $79.95, order # IPL-22008H.  I saw this
at the local store.  I might still like mine better, but it looked like
a quality piece.

They also have a 5C spin-index fixture for $49.00, with 2 1/16" axial
travel for flute grinding.

They have a 7 7/8"dividing head, with tailstock, 3 dividing plates,
center and drive dog, threaded back plate.  $225.00, YON-70100B

Also some other nice stuff.

They can be reached at 800-521-9520

					Jon



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:08 EST 1996
Article: 43092 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:51:37 -0600
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OK I'll start the thread with a relatively expensive bit of tooling which
looks great on paper but fell short in use.  Maybe others had the same
experience... that is the R8 shank collet set which uses, I believe, ER-25
style collets.  I bought one of these when I bought my vertical mill and
was numb to the prices as they accumulated.  I guess the idea is to save
wear and tear on the mill spindle by sacrificing the tooling with repeated
tool changes and tightening rather than using standard R8 collets.

Here is what I found...

The collet set and shank consumes valuable Z axis space.  Changing collets
requires a spanner wrench and some awkward contortions, rather than a
quick flip of the drawbar with a box wrench.  Using small end mills is
tough because the overhang from the collet nose blocks quite a bit of view
of the workpiece.  This same overhang often contacts the workpiece as well
when milling deeper pockets and such.

I don't believe I would feel this way with a TRUE quick change system
whereby tools are "loaded" into little collet modules, and are then
inserted onto the shank with a quick hand motion.

Anyway, I have one of these for sale (Asian, Taiwan I believe, but nice
quality) or trade!  Anyone have a small "Kurt" vise (3" or 4") kicking
about?  I will toss in some $$ too.



Kurt Bjorn

> As a relative neophyte, I'd LOVE to have a coax indicator.  I can't 
> 
> 1) How to do things with or without the fancy gadgets
> 
> 2) Which fancy gadgets are useful
> 
> 3) Which fancy gadgets are more trouble than they are worth
> 
> 4) Which fancy gadgets are complete junk
> 
> In the woodworking newsgroups, there is a constant war between the 
> 'neanderthals' (who do all their woodworking with handtools) and the 
> 'Normites' (after Norm Abrams, who's TV program is a showcase for the 
> latest laser guided miter saw (no kidding)).  I'd hope we are above that

> sort of sniping. 
> 
> Doug White
> 
> 
> 


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:09 EST 1996
Article: 43093 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 1 Dec 1996 05:12:49 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.13)
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Seems like an awful waste of a perfectly good fighter (Drool).


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:11 EST 1996
Article: 43094 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question from a newbie:which lathe?
Date: 1 Dec 1996 05:12:50 GMT
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The answer to your questioin is yes.  The second question is how much do
ya wanna spend?  I have around 10 grand wrapped up in my "Used" Lathe. 
most of it in the tooling.  If you buy new stuff you need deep pockets, 
same goes for used tooling.  The hard thing is to find "good" tooling.

The answer to your second question is no, but do it anyway.  by the time
you finish it you will be much better.  Then you can start over and do it
again and better.


From medievalbk@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:12 EST 1996
Article: 43095 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: medievalbk@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: who sells rivets?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 04:54:15 GMT
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Vladman:  What is your SCA name.  Or...

Solid stell rivets are a necessity for the recreation of medieval armour. 
I had to have a special run made of 1/8" shanks with 5/32" heads to match
the original medieval rivets used in recreating medieval armour--now
there's a usenet site that would be something different.

Vilyehm the Merchant

William Taylor
medievalbk@aol.com


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:13 EST 1996
Article: 43096 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Web Update
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 20:46:51 GMT
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I've just completed an update to our Web Site <www.loganact.com>, so
drop by.  I've included a couple of photos of our Hoist Controllers as
well as the information on the Lathes and Lathe Parts.  The history
page has also been updated.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From davidlindq@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:14 EST 1996
Article: 43097 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Die Filer Files
Date: 7 Dec 1996 19:36:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32A7888B.33E6@goodnet.com>, Darrell Collins
<dcollin@goodnet.com> writes:

>Where can I find files for a Keller Model No. 1A Die-Filer?
>
>

MSC (who else!) lists 8" long parallel machine files on page 166 of their
'96/97 catalogue. These are said to fit most filing machines. They have
them available singly in a number of types and sizes, prices each run
about $9-$21. Also they list 12 piece sets for about $95-$100. 

7 December 1996
David Lindquist

David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:15 EST 1996
Article: 43098 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4.2 Lbs H20 from 80 to 350F?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 18:01:37 GMT
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In article <581i95$f1o$1@mrnews.mro.dec.com>,
   Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com> wrote:
>Yep, the phase change takes a *lot* of energy.  But
>prior to the phase change, it's a straight 1 btu per
>degree (or pretty close), so you'd save 200-80 = 120 btu
>per pound by preheating.
>
>The energy sucked up by the phase change was described
>by Joseph Black, an 18th-century (I think) Scottish 
>clergyman, who used the term "latent heat."
>
>Are you sure that 1200 btu figure is correct?  That
>sounds high to me.  I thought it was more like 144 btu,
>but perhaps I'm confusing it with the btu in the 
>ice/water phase change.
>
>
Check me if I'm wrong, The change from ice/water takes 540 calories/gm
and the change from water to steam takes 80 calories/gm. Converting
to BTU/lb I get 799 BTU and 118 BTU respectively. 

JD



From fandj@fau.campus.mci.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:16 EST 1996
Article: 43099 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Fred Bruce <fandj@fau.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:10:21 GMT
Organization: none
Lines: 3
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References: <584gga$gqt@chaplin.cs.ubc.ca> <19961206135200.IAA20455@ladder01.news.aol.com> <AECDB4969668B1163@ppp2.nantucket.net>
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There is a picture and brief description of the Quorn in the Power Model 
Supply catalog.



From v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:58:17 EST 1996
Article: 43100 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (John Earle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 21:58:32 GMT
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Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?

Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would 
work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...

Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:18 EST 1996
Article: 43101 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench Grinder Tool Rests
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:18:12 GMT
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Roy Robinson <rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca> wrote:

>Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>> 
>>         There is an article in one of the Village publishing books
>>         on making such a holder.  Its a copy of the one sold by
>>         South Bend which I got from my dad.
>> 
>> I've always admired that little holder in the South Bend publications,
>> and would love to find one. Failing that, I'd love to get a more
>> accurate reference to which "one of the Village publishing books"
>> describes how to make one...
> I think you may be talking about "A Rocking, Swinging Grinder Table"
>(great title).  It's in MetalWorking-Book 1, Projects in Metal.  Page
>144, written by Harold Mason.  I built it and it works great. I found it
>has a tendency to overheat the cutter - it's more difficult to "feel" if
>you are trying to remove to much at a pass, it would be great with some
>coolant spraying at the grind edge.

Well, that could be what he was writing about, I've looked
at it - have to book.  Its a nice one of its kind, no doubt.

What I thought chris was reffereing to is the holder my Dad
bought from SB for grinding tools.  Basically it is a set of
round piece of metal with a square hole to hold a particular
size bit in one end, and a flange with degrees stamped on
them on the other end.  this holder fits into a square metal
block with both a flat botton on the front section, and a
slanted botton for front currer relief on the after section.
It holds the bit with a set screw and can be locked at a
particular degree setting with another.  

Using this holder, one only needs a flat grinder table in
front of the corse and fine wheels to do a first class job
of grinding HSS cutter bits.  the repeatability of using the
holder beans the bit can be easily resa\harpened with oub
creating a multifaceted face.  Because the pressure is all
applied you retain total "feel" for what is going on with
the cutter.  As a result, I havn't "blued" the edge of one
since I started using it.  The cutters are easier to hone
with a tiny "microbevel" like I always use on wood chisels
with with nice flat faces also, so I end up doing less
grinding.  I don
't need to regrind until the microbevel grows in width to
060" - .080".  So I do four to five honings between touch
ups on the grinder.

When grinding in a new piece of tool bit I often push an ice
cube up against the intersection of the tool bit and the
grinding wheel to help cool it and speed up the process.
I've done that for years with wood chisels.  It is a tad
messy, but works well if one doesn't get carried away and
put to much pressure on the bit.  It woeks better on wood
chisels because their thin cross section gives better heat
transfer, but it is better than grinding for 30 seconds and
cooling for 30 seconds in ice water on tool bits.

Fitch



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:20 EST 1996
Article: 43102 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: 6 Dec 1996 22:23:49 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Jay:

I have noted your great expertise in manipulating numbers,
now perhaps you would like to help me with this question.

In my native Spain, we have a Steam Ram in our workshop,
this machine was probaly build in the late 1900 and has been
used in the manufacturer of coins. For the last 25 years nobody
has touched the machine, because nobody can still remember
the tonnage of the RAM. Can you help ?

The machine worked according to the following principle.

An upright solid steel cylinder of 12 " diametre and a length of 6 ft, was

elevated with saturated steam by 8 ft, and mechanically locked.

On demand the cylinder was released and then crashed down
with its full weight into the forming  tool, creating the coin image.
A steam cushion was then used to absorb some of the vibration.


My question is:

What is the tonnage of the RAM ?


Your help is very much welcome.


Alberto.








From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:21 EST 1996
Article: 43103 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:20:42 GMT
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crostown@concentric.net (JD) wrote:

>In article <32a64a11.0@mournblade.ptw.com>,
>   frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>snip

>>Other than that I had a good experience with Warner Tool and
>>Supply in North Holleywood where I bought my Mill and Lathe.
>>(Happens to be run by a nephew of the Warner that heads up
>>Rutland I think.)  The mans name is Perry Warner.  snip

>Ya, Perry Warner was great. I'd forgotten about him untill I read
>your reply. I was looking for some strange tool holders a couple
>years ago and nobody had ever seen or heard of them before. Finally,
>I took the phone book and went out driving. My last stop was Warner.
>When I walked in he knew exactly what I was looking for and where to
>get them. He really bent over backwards to help me out. (I think he
>went through about four packs of smokes in the half hour I was there)

>Thanks for reminding me about him, I'll have to throw some business his
>way.

>JD

I'd forgotten that he is alergic to air - I don't think,
except when we were riding in his truck, I saw him take a
breath of "nothing but air".

He sure like to help customers though.  And in consideration
of my being an ex smoker, did not smoke in his pickup which
I appreciated - I'd have had to ride in the back.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:23 EST 1996
Article: 43104 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:24:24 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32a9de89.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

>Hi Everyone.

>Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>Yes, I know this is a project that should be approched with the greatest
>concern for safetly. Any good references would be appreciated.

<snip>

>What do you guys think?

>chuck sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com
>-- 
>--
>Chuck Sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com

Not to long ago Live Steam had an article about building an
electric boiler  exactly the uses you mention.  You might
consider reviewing that article to see if it would do what
you need.

Fitch



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:58:24 EST 1996
Article: 43105 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" lathe owners input
Date: 1 Dec 1996 06:37:09 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 77
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art braden (abraden@netusa1.net) wrote:
: There are a couple of Atlas 10" lathes for sale in my area. I would like to have some input from owners,
: present or past. How do you like your lathe ? What are some of the good features and what are some of the 
: bad.
:  I own a 6" Atlas now but would like to get a larger lathe but I do not have the room for one bigger than a 
: 12 " model.

The 10" Atlas is a much better lathe than the 6", but not as fine as many
other 10" lathes.  Still, it is quite acceptable for many purposes.  One
thing that many object to is the flat ways.  If the rear gibs are set
correctly (which can only be done when bed wear is minimal) then it is
just fine.  If the bed shows substantial wear, then the gibs cannot be
set tightly in the worn spot, or it will bind in the un-worn areas.
This is probably the main complaint to the Atlas design.  However, 
re-scraping an Atlas bed is much easier than inverted-vee ways, because
the only angles are 90 degrees.  You can easily measure bed wear with
a dial caliper (or a 0-1" and a 5-6" micrometer).  Measure the thickness
of the front lip about 2" right of the headstock, and at the absolute
far right end of the bed.  The right end will measure .375" +- a few
ten-thousandths.  The difference at the near-headstock location is your
vertical bed wear.  Then measure from the front lip to the back lip
(vertical sides, a front-back dimension) at the same places on the bed.
The un-worn area should be 5.750" +- a few ten-thousandths, the worn
spot should not be more than a few thousandths less.  You will have to
set your gibs for the un-worn spot, so the amount of wear is the amount
of 'slop' allowed when the carriage is in that spot.

Avoid Babbit-bearing Atlas lathes, unless you know the Babbit bearings
are in superb condition.  Use a dial indicator, on a magnetic mount
on the bed, to read vertical motion of the chuck.  It should be less than
.002" with strong lifting of the chuck.  If more, babbit bearings will need
to be remade, or roller bearings will need re-setting of preload or 
replacement.  (Babbit bearings are identified by bearing caps with 2 large
bolts, just in front and back of the oil cups.  Timken Roller-bearing
headstocks have no bolts nect to the oil cups.)
(Other note to avoid flames:  There are shims that can be removed to
take up vertical play in the babbit bearings, but any wear and then shim
removal guarantees an out-of-round bearing, which leaks oil like crazy,
and fails to constrain the spindle front/back.  Take it from a sufferer,
you don't want this!)

The cross slide and compound are simple mechanisms, which can be serviced
easily.  I just made a new leadscrew and nut for my cross slide.  I also
need to re-scrape both slides, but just haven't gotten around to it.
Positions on the cross slide, especially, that are 'tight' and 'loose'
indicate uneven wear on the slide, and indicate you may want to scrape
those down.

In all, a simple, reasonably well built lathe, which means you can fix
darn near anything that breaks on it.  Over the years, i've broken a few
things through accidents (vehicular, while moving it; and dumb, while
using it) and have been able to either get replacement parts reasonably,
or made the parts myself.  If it is change-gear, make sure you get the change
gears, spindles, couplings, bolts and nuts, etc. that go with the change
gear set.  If just a couple are missing, you can get them from Boston
Gear, but a whole set could be expensive.

I keep thinking of upgrading to a better class lathe, and also just another
inch of radius (like a 12") but, I kind of like this Atlas, and know its
quirks well, so I've kept it for over 12 years, now.

One other note, which applies to nearly all lathes of that period (ie.
pre 70's) is the hideous 'rocker', 'lantern' or Armstrong tool post.
It is very flimsy, and does not hold tools very rigidly.  An Aloris-type
toolpost (dovetail and either tapered gib (expensive) or piston (cheaper))
is a VERY good addition.  I put one of these on mine after seeing them
in the shop at work, and it made a BIG difference in vibration and
ability to take wider cuts.  I have the 'Phase-II' Aloris-clone from
China, bought from Enco.  There is also the Dorian, which is a bit more
expensive.  These are all interchangable.  For the 10", you want the
A, AXA or 100 series sizes of post and tool holders.

If you have any more questions, write, and I'll try to answer them.

					Jon




From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:25 EST 1996
Article: 43106 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: centre drills: bell vs straight
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 17:31:04 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <5822hd$dpl@herald.concentric.net>
References: <581ka3$ped@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
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In article <581ka3$ped@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>,
   kroeker@mbnet.mb.ca (Harold Kroeker) wrote:
>
>There seem to be three types of centre drills available and I am not
>sure which type to use for which application.  The types that I have
>encountered are:
>
>Straight
>- 60 degree included angle
>
>Bell
>- 60 degree included angle which bells out to 120 degrees.
>- produces centre holes with beveled edges to prevent damage to the
>centering hole.
>- claimed to reduce the bearing surface of the centre hole
>
>Ring seat
>- similar to bell type but the 60 degree included angle is followed by
>an 82 degree chamfer angle.
>- from the McMaster-Carr catalog: "two rings on body provide a strong
>bearing point for heavy duty work"
>
>
>In "The Amateur's Lathe"  it states that one should drill a centre
>hole large enough to support the work and no larger.  Is there a rule
>of thumb to use or do I need to make a few centre holes too small to
>learn this?
>
>
>Harold
>
>
The 82 degree countersinks are used for flat head screws and
rivets.


From k9opo@netusa1.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:26 EST 1996
Article: 43107 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: k9opo@netusa1.net (Roger Grady)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 04:48:23 GMT
Organization: NetUSA1 Inc.	
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <57r25r$l6t@news.netusa1.net>
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"Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net> wrote:

>Outlandish projects with old aero engones reminded me of one I 
>saw in 1966 in Saint Louis Mo. I had gone there to interview with 
>the Sunnen co. The taxi from the motel to the plant took me past 
>an industrial building. I dont know what they made but it 
>required a great deal of ventilation.  At one end of the building 
>there was a Corsair , yes a bent wing radial engined WW 2 fighter 
>permanently mounted in a steel frame and cut off at the back of 
>the cockpit, the tail was missing but the wings and landing gear 
>were all there it was surrounded with chain link fence and there 
>was a layer of chain link just behind the cockpit where it was 
>cut off . the end of the building was open and the propellor was 
>turning I have no way of knowing the throtle setting but I know 
>that some Corsairs turned sixteen foot diameter four bladed props 
>some used a twin row radial and the later models used a four row 
>radial Talk about a stiff breeze. 

I saw a picture of this setup in a Flying magazine years ago. I can't
remember for sure what the Corsair was used for but I think it had to
do with testing something (maybe large windows??) in strong winds,
which the bobtail Corsair did an excellent job of creating. I've
always wondered what happened to it. Planes have been rebuilt from
much less than that.

Roger Grady






From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:28 EST 1996
Article: 43108 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 21:53:50 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32A11D6E.2CC6@silcom.com>
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Bruce Roland wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in building a high quality version of the "$5 toy
> gyroscopes". (i.e precision bearings, long run times, maybe larger
> sizes, etc.)  I would be most appreciative if anyone has plans for one
> or knows where I can find plans,
> 
> If not, designs for the bearing portions would be very helpful.
> 
> My ultimate design goals would include a battery powered motor to drive
> the gyroscope for continuous running.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.
> 
My gyro  has a rotating motor and solar cell, the shaft of the motor is
stationary.  Goes like crazy.

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From jhre@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:28 EST 1996
Article: 43109 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 3 Dec 1996 22:09:50 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <5828fe$clr@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
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In <5823bl$bhc@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck
Sherwood) writes: 
...snip...
>
>I asked Jim a similar question a while back. His advice to me was that
>he thought it was better to buy the small mill (or the xyz table and
>share the motor) than to try and mill on your lathe. You are just too
>limited in size. 
>
>My personal experience after buying the mill is that the money you
spend
>on the mill is only a start. You will spend LOTS more on tooling
>for the mill than the cost of the mill. Collets, endmills, flycutters
>boring tools, screw machine drill bits, etc, all cost money and Im
sure
>that I spent lots more on these than the mill itself. 

I still believe that you are much better off with a real milling
machine than a vertical mill table for your lathe. I think that the
setups are much simpler, and easier to perform, as well as the ability
to work on a larger piece. I am sure that there are people who do
excellent milling on their lathe and might argue with me, but my
experience has been that milling in the lathe is generally a big pain
in the ***.

Chuck is right too when he say that you are going to spend more on the
accessories than the machine itself. This is true for ANY machine that
you own ( except perhaps a shaper ), Lathes require live centers , half
centers , knurling tools, dial indicators, etc. the mill is the biggest
accessory hog thoug. You can eeasily spend 3x - 5x the cost of the
machine in tooling.

What is right for you? You have to know what you intend to work on.
Just remember, if it swings 3" one day you'll need to cut 3.5". Just
MURPHY'S law I guess.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:58:29 EST 1996
Article: 43110 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Question from a newbie:which lathe?
Date: 1 Dec 1996 06:51:35 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Jim Bingham (bingham@iwaynet.net) wrote:
: Got a silly question I assume:
: Never really doing shop stuff... except in Jr. High.   I have aquired an
: old Atlas lathe (10").....I have taken it apart and replaced broken and
: missing parts, lubed it appropriately.  It has been leveled an apears to
: work fine....  I had my father in law look at it (he does machine shop
: stuff as a hobby) and he thinks it is in good shape.  All I have is a
: left and cut off tool, left hand tool holder, a four jaw chuck, and a
: few tools.

: The question I have is: 
:  
: Is it better to complete this lathe and by the additional tooling and
: chucks or to by a new lathe... sureline or import?

If the bed is in good condition, then the Atlas is a pretty decent
lathe.  I recommend replacing the atrocious lantern toolpost with a
clone of the Aloris dovetail toolpost.  You will need a 3-jaw chuck.
The big difference between this and the Sherline is the size - and I
would never be satisfied with a lathe that small.  I once had a large
jeweler's lathe, and it JUST was TOO SMALL for so many things I tried to
do.  That lathe was very similar in size to a Sherline.

Really, after a toolpost and its holders, and the 3-jaw chuck, the cutting 
tools don't amount to much.  Steel tool bits are very cheap, brazed
carbide is also quite inexpensive, and indexable carbide cutters may
entail a little higher investment for the insert holders, but the cost
to use them is lower than brazed carbides, as you get 3 or 4 cutting
edges for a dollar or so.  I use a combination, using indexables first
for most turning and facing, and brazed for some special shapes like
sharp corners and threading, and HSS bits for shapes I need to make
by hand.

: Second question if you don't mind.....  in the nov/dec issue of home
: shop machinist there is part one or "a Stirling-powered tractor".... is
: this an acceptable first project... or am i over my head?.... i'll
: probably do it anyway...

Sounds like a fairly intricate project, but you might just take it slow,
and maybe do some similar (but less critical) turning project just to get 
the feel of the material and cutters on each type operation.  I wouldn't
try to bore an engine cylinder as the first internal boring operation you've
ever done.  So, find something that does not require such perfect surface
finish, and bore that first, to get some feel of how it goes.  Expect
to waste a few pieces of stock, and a few hours, before you develop the feel
and technique to do the more demanding parts.  Expect to turn several pounds
of stock into chips to get a fraction of a pound part.  I so often try to
save 10 cents of material, and end up not having enough material left
after turning it down until the saw marks are gone.

A bench grinder is a real asset, when sharpening HSS tools, or grinding
one to a special shape.  A bandsaw to cut off a piece of stock is a real
timesaver, too.  SURE beats a hacksaw!

But, there's NOTHING WRONG with an Atlas 10".  I've used one for over 12
years, now.
							Jon



From stas@best.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:30 EST 1996
Article: 43111 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:09:55 -0800
Organization: BEST Internet Communications
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <58bja3$beh@shellx.best.com>
References: <585r44$f8e@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> <19961205192600.OAA04179@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: shellx.best.com

In article <19961205192600.OAA04179@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
 <bohigas@aol.com> wrote:
[]
>
>Think of the unique design of the "Harley Davidson" no matter how
>much our Japanese friends doctor with their Honda, no motor bike
>will ever feel like "Harley Davidson, unless they copy the original
>engineering design nut by nut and bolt by bolt. 

Which should not be too difficult, given the Hardleys' propensity for
spontaneous self-disassembly.



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:32 EST 1996
Article: 43112 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 16:25:32 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32A9E0CC.3047@ix.netcom.com>
References: <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net> <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com> <586rtu$kai@news0-alterdial.uu.net> <32A7621E.61AD@ix.netcom.com> <58c9vc$brn@news0-alterdial.uu.net>
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To: Steve Davis <sld@nikodyne.com>

Steve Davis wrote:

> ->> what about a Meuser 18" (26 with gap) by 84" lathe?
> ->
> ->WHAT ABOUT IT??
> 
> ... can you tell the age from s/n, if in decent shape what's it worth;
> you know, that kind of thing...
> --

sorry but meuser is not in the S/N book
give some info on this puppy and i will give you my opinion
for free no $25 fee


ap


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:33 EST 1996
Article: 43113 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 01:06:42 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32A933A2.1656@abrasha.com>
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com> <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32A448C5.3A02@spiff.hr.att.com> <E1y0Gs.GJ6@yc.estec.esa.nl>
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> 
> like a charm!  40 secs to download, a good video and thanks for the
> very useful http address.  It is really great.
> 
> --
> Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV
> 
> charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
> European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


40 SECONDS!  What kind of connection do you have. A cable modem, because even ISDN 
doesn't do that file in 40 seconds.  I'm jealous!

Abrasha (ook Nederlander, maar woonachtig in San Francisco sinds 1977)
http://www.abrasha.com


From mjn@HiWAAY.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:33 EST 1996
Article: 43114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Re: SI stuff
Date: 8 Dec 1996 02:27:50 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
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In article <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net>, Kjones@interlynx.net says...
>
>
>
>>BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
>>This is all ABACADABRA to me.
>>Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
>>
>>arie veltman
>
>Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa
>
>In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation 
uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F
>

I am a physics major who once designed high-tech transformers.  I was trained
in MKS units (SI) in school.  However, when I went to buy transformer cores, 
they were in CGS units (centimeters, grams, seconds).  I learned the CGS units, 
and resolved to forevermore use the units used by the practitioners of a 
technology.  For steam in the English-speaking world, this is pounds, etc.

It's just easier.

  - Mike Norton



From qed@rollanet.org Tue Dec 17 13:58:34 EST 1996
Article: 43115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: qed@rollanet.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for J.J. Holtzapffel's books
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 17:25:59 GMT
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On 18 Nov 1996 09:11:48 GMT, rcheng@wiliki.eng.hawaii.edu (Robert W F
Cheng) wrote:

>Hello,
>I'm looking for John Jacob Holtzapffel's books.  His books are printed
>by Dover Publications.  He's the granddaddy of ornamental lathe turning.
>If anyone's got his books, I'll offer top dollar.
>
>Thanks,
>Robert
>


You might try Lindsay Publications, PO Box 538, Bradley IL 60915-0538,
ph. (815)-935-5353 (call before noon local time)

They have reprints of some of his stuff, along with a bunch of other
goodies. Hope this helps.

                        Jerry Boyd
                        qed@rollanet.org


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 13:58:36 EST 1996
Article: 43116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ...Well, how about Motor Oil then?
Date: 1 Dec 1996 07:00:22 GMT
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w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
: Non-detergent motor oil that is. 30 weight, I believe.  I've been using
: this as a general purpose lubricant (especially to cover tools, mill
: tables, etc. when I know I'm not going to use them for a while).

This is an excellent tool protectant.  I used to use this, but it sometimes
collects a lot of dust, which eventually becomes a gummy layer.  I've been
usint LPS #1, which is a very light oil spray, which is designed for this
purpose.

: When I go to a tool supply store and ask about lubricants, they don't seem
: to know what I'm talking about.  ("Oil?  What do you mean 'oil'?")

: Is there a FAQ about oils and greases?  For instance, what do you use on
: lathe spindle taper bearings?  What do you use on the ways?  What do you
: use on the tailstock dead center?  What do you use on the column of the
: typical Taiwanese Mill/Drill so it doesn't stick when you want to lower it?

Spindle bearings are usually lubed with a very light (about SAE #10, ISO
VG 22) oil specially formulated for the purpose.  Ways are lubed with
'WayLube', often ISO VG 68 for small machines.  This is a sticky oil,
designed to be thin, but to cling to surfaces.  As for dead centers,
you really might want to reserve these for the HEADSTOCK, and get a LIVE
center for use in the tailstock.  Then you don't have to worry about
lubing the center.  As for column mill/drills, I'm not sure there IS a
lubricant which can prevent this problem, but way lube is probably the
best stuff.
					Jon



From accufab@fidalgo.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:37 EST 1996
Article: 43117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Rod K. Peterson" <accufab@fidalgo.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: 1 Dec 1996 06:19:09 GMT
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miker <mreiney@hevanet.com> wrote in article <329F2D85.3A20@hevanet.com>...
> 
> I need a clever way to enlarge the hole without spending more money
> than it would cost to get used wheels.
> 
>  
> Ideas?
> Thanks, miker
> 

Here's what I'd do.....  I would buy a good hole saw of the proper size.  I
would then turn or burn a plate of sufficient diameter to cover the bolt
hole pattern plus a little.  Then I would mark the center of the plate. 
Drill the bolt hole pattern centered about the center mark.  Set the plate
in the drill press and drill through the center mark of the plate with the
hole saw.  Remove from drill press and bolt to wheel.  Now you have a guide
to run the hole saw through that will hold it on center.  Trust me... Hole
saws have saved my bacon many a time.



From jhre@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:38 EST 1996
Article: 43118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 3 Dec 1996 22:19:25 GMT
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In <32A48267.22FC@execpc.com> Bob Stout <sdesign@execpc.com> writes: 
>
>This may be answered best by Jim Harvey but I will throw it out here
>anyway. I am looking at Sherline's Mill and Lathes for doing small,
>light machining of plastic and aluminum components used in my
electronic
>projects. I know in the long run I could utilize both a mill and a
lathe
>but finances at the moment force me to look at one or the other. My
>question is: Has anyone used the Sherline Vertical Milling Column
>attachment (3050,3480)on the 4000/4400 lathes (for milling purposes of
>course)and if so, is it a viable alternative to buying the Vertical
>Mill? Sherline says it's a fast changeover. I could settle for this
>until I could afford the rest of the Milling machine (prolly the
5400).
>Any more feedback or caveats on Sherline products would also be
>appreciated.
>
>Bob Stout
Bob:

I responded to Chuck Sherwoods article and then found this  ( the
original!).

Here is my take on the question you pose. I have used the SHERLINE
VERTICAL MILLING TABLE and I can attest that it is a well made
accessory. However, I do not think that it is as versatile as a milling
machine ( obviously ) You are limited in the size of the part that can
be milled, and locating and affixing the part to be milled is a fair
challenge. If you only need to occassionally mill a small slot or
chamfer, this might be a viable alternative to owning a mill. 

My personal feeling on milling in the lathe is "why Bother?" Of course,
I ahve several milling machines so that might not really be a fair
assessment. I DO konw that many people do excellent and extensive
milling in thier lathes. However, they have invested a lot of time and
effort to make special attachments and fixtures to make this practice
easier.

SHERLINE is right as the time to change over the table is minimal, but
unless you are willing to accept the small size of the vertical milling
table, you might be better off with the Mill Head conversion.

If I can be of any other help, please feel free to just ask.

Jim Harvey
jiM@hre.com
http://hre.com


From gjRossow@msn.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:39 EST 1996
Article: 43119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: gjRossow@msn.com (minette  )
Subject: Re: Filling holes in charms?
Date: 3 Dec 96 21:31:48 -0800
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Does the design permit filing it off?
Min


From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:58:40 EST 1996
Article: 43120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More AA/Sears Lathe questions
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:43:28 -0600
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On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Chuck Harris wrote:

> Tom Kruesel wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 
 
> One interesting coincidance is the gears and gear chart for the A&A lathe are exactly the
> same as those for the 6" Atlas "618".
> 
> -----
> Chuck Harris - WA3UQV
> cfharris@erols.com
> 
> 
Actually, I heard it's no coincidence.  Atlas made the gears for AA.  
According to someone (and I forget who)  That's why AA only got one run 
at making these lathes for Sears.  Once Atlas had the gears set up, they 
grabbed the whole shot!


Tom


From dukovurl@mail.idt.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:41 EST 1996
Article: 43121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Dworzan <dukovurl@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: :Monarch Lathe
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 06:36:44 -0800
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Jens wrote:
> 
> Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net> wrote:
> 
> >Does anyone know if Monarch is still in bussiness. A friend if mine just
> >bought a real nice gear head Monarch but would like to find a taper
> >attachment for it and also need a new tailstock barrel. Thanks to all,
> 
> Yes they are .... talked to them a while back when I needed info on
> the age of a lathe. Sorry but I don't have the number any more. Try a
> web search.
> 
> Jens

Someone posted Monarch's address just recently. Here it is again if 
anyone wants to put it in their file.
Monarch Machine Tool Co.
615 N.Oak Street
Sidney, Ohio 45365
tel. 937 492 4111
fax. 937 492 7958
PD



From ferric7@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:43 EST 1996
Article: 43122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ferric7@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Problem welding thin-walled tubing?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 03:23:53 GMT
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You could try brazing the tubing if high strength is not needed. But make
sure to do it in a well vented area. However if you do inhale some of the
fumes drinking milk helps.


From writt@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:43 EST 1996
Article: 43123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 00:30:19 GMT
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In article <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) writes:

>LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
>
>This worth a second look? Opinions?
>
>

If I were in the market for a lathe of this size I would surely have a
look at it.

Bill Rittner


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:45 EST 1996
Article: 43124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe bench tool storage
Date: 3 Dec 1996 23:07:14 GMT
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McMaster-Carr and others sell those dividers; I want one to separate the
area in which I grind and make chips from the rest of the garage (where
I actually do maintenance on cars and build the occasional engine). 

They are frightfully expensive, especially considering what they are:
vertical strips of plastic, overlapped, clamped to a horizontal frame
with a strip of aluminium and screws. 

I plan to make one from a sheet of heavy plastic and a small jig to cut
the strips - a few nails and a single edged razor blade should do the
trick!


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:46 EST 1996
Article: 43125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe bench tool storage
Date: 3 Dec 1996 23:09:47 GMT
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	Wow, I didn't think that any rcm'er would think twice (or even once)
	about a permit for anything.

All depends on where you live. In Palo Alto, the neighbors have a nasty
habit of reading the permit listings in the local paper and reporting
people who are doing non-permit work.

That's why my garage extension isn't done yet ... we've only passed the
first round of the permitting process! Roof design and engineering
drawings next...


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:47 EST 1996
Article: 43126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: answer for a newbie
Date: 3 Dec 1996 23:06:09 GMT
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Not sure who asked this, but here goes:


: > 
: > Second question if you don't mind.....  in the nov/dec issue of home
: > shop machinist there is part one or "a Stirling-powered tractor".... is
: > this an acceptable first project... or am i over my head?.... i'll
: > probably do it anyway...
: > 
: > thanks

Rudy Kouhoupt seems to be a good writer and his projects seem to make 
sense.  I haven't built any, but have read his _Shop Wisdom of Rudy Kouhoupt_
and have the second book on order.  Stirling engines are kind of fun,
with the only warning about the tractor is that you'll be spending a lot
of time doing the frame and wheels before he gets to the engine portion.
OTOH, I'm thinking of giving it a try, myself.

BTW, many/most of Rudy's projects are well suited to the Sherline size
of tools.  Looking at the first article, this should be true for the 
tractor, though you'll have to do some creative setups for the frames.

Pete Brooks



From rick427@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:48 EST 1996
Article: 43127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rick427@primenet.com (Richard Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: F.S. Abrasive cross pads
Date: 7 Dec 1996 14:21:03 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
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For sale, abrasive cross pad assortment.  Threaded hole in centers to
attach arbor, 120 grit, all unused.

CROSS PADS
(quantity)  length x length x abrasive strip width

(130)  5/8 x 5/8 x 5/16

(76)  1 x 1 x 7/16

(67)   1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/8

(137)   1-5/8 x 15/8 x 1/2

MISC 
(1) Bag of assorted sizes:  Approx. a dozen cross pads from 6 x 6 x 1
on down.  Appprox 2 dozen cartridge rolls.  Several square pads.

$75 for all, shipping (U.S. only) included.  


Richard Walker
Irvine, CA
rick427@primenet.com






From bjc@nworks.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:49 EST 1996
Article: 43128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 96 16:36:10 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What size diodes?
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-=> Quoting Int:chris_delikatny@mindl to ** All ** <=-

 In> Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using
 In> stud rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4
 In> 200A 200V diodes in a bridge configuration would handle
 In> average welding below 200A. There are all kinds of
 In> transients and high frequency harmonics flying around in
 In> the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

They should safely handle about 150 amps if well heatsinked.
Should also be good for about 150Volts PEAK  

Current blows a diode through overheating so a well heatsinked
diode is less suseptable to current surges.  Voltage surges blow
them by breaking down the reverse barrier and in general diodes
are more suseptable to voltage spikes, however, bear in mind that
in a bridge, there are 2 diodes in series.

Regards,
Brad Chaucer
BChaucer@ix.netcom.com

... Nothing is fool-proof to a sufficiently talented fool.
___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:51 EST 1996
Article: 43129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 06:01:20 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
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Chuck Sherwood wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone.
> 
> Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
> Yes, I know this is a project that should be approched with the greatest
> concern for safetly. Any good references would be appreciated.
> 
> These are my thoughts.  I think that electric is the safest. No possible
> propane fumes to settle in my basement and get into the furnace.
> Also no flue tubes to install.
> 
> Grainger has some "cartridge" heaters intended for heating dies of plastic
> injection machines of some kind. Maximum sheath temp of 1600 deg.
> They come in sizes from 100-550 watts. 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameter by 4
> inchs long.  I think using a 300 and a 550 would give enough combinations
> (300, 550, 850 watts) to heat up quickly and then reduce power for running.
> Is 850 big enough? The only reference I have is a Jenson catalog. They use
> 450 watt heaters but their engines are smaller than mine. It would be easy
> to use a pair of 550 watt elements, but that limits the combinations to 550
> and 1100 unless some other form of power control is used like a Variac
> or a heavy duty light dimmer.
> 

> 
Take apart an old coffee maker.  Inside is an electric heater with coils
for water that will make low pressure steam very nicely.  If you want to
dry the steam, use two of them.

Maybe you could use the exhaust from your engine to make coffee?

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 13:58:52 EST 1996
Article: 43130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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In a previous article, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) says:

>phony wrote:
>> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>>Why did they ever do it that way?
>>
>Cooling. The lubricants of the time were lousy. Spinning the cylinders was
>an 'elegant' solution.
>
>--RC
>

The engines used degummed castor oil, which is pretty good oil!  The real 
problem was poor heat transfer in the nickel alloy cylinders, fins that 
were too shallow, and low air speeds.  The cylinder heads were machined 
into the cylinder.  Oil coolers, and aluminum alloy heads helped cure 
these problems.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From dennis@triton.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:53 EST 1996
Article: 43131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dennis gramza <dennis@triton.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 34,000+ newsgroups
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:01:27 -0500
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Get a separate subscription for your news groups.
We have all of the news groups.
No need to change ISP, either.
Must be 18. Money back guarantee.
E-mail for more info.


From r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:58:55 EST 1996
Article: 43132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: NJRich <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas 12x36 lathe ??
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 21:10:23 -0800
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Glenn Goens wrote:
> 
> I'd like to solicit opinions as to a fair price for an Atlas 12x36 lathe.
> The lathe in question is to be offered at auction later this month in
> Cincinnati, OH.  The description of the lathe in the auction flyer reads
> as follows:
> 
> " 12" x 36" atlas Model 3996 Cabinet Type Engine Lathe; s/n 106622,
>   6" 3-jaw chuck, collets and draw bar, 16 spindle speeds 28-2072 RPM "
> 
> Considering the nature of the auction (bankruptcy sale) it is doubtful
> that the machine can be inspected under power.  The machine was used
> in an industrial setting by an electronic equipment manufacturer.  This
> is the largest lathe that is listed (the others are a 10x24 South Bend
> and a 9x18 Hardinge) for the auction.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@mail.idt.netGlenn,

I bought one recently from an old sailor for $475.00. It is a beautiful
looking machine, especially since he dissambled it cleaned it up and 
painted it. I am in the process of installing it and finally checking
it out. To me it is a very easy to service machine however time 
consuming.
Oh yes, one thing about pre-inspecting is that it's very easy to 
determine wear on those flat ways. You can see it or feel by running
you fingers on the ways.
This is my fourth metal lathe purchase and I think if I had the chance
to go back to lathe number one, that I would buy a Myford or Emco Maier
and forget about monkeying with the used lathe. Yet I appreciate the 
learning experience I'm going through. Since my little shop has a 
vertical mill, a small horizontal mill and a drill press and etc, I
will monkey with those but the lathe is key and would rather have that 
one as flawless as possible. I hope this helps some way.

All the best!
Rich


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:56 EST 1996
Article: 43133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinist squares-who sells good but cheap?.
Date: 7 Dec 1996 22:25:58 GMT
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Good and Cheap are Oxmorons.  The two are not able to be used in a
rational manner.  I recommend that you look at Mitutoyo's at about $125.00
for the Hardend set its about the least expensive that I'd buy.  As for
Enco,  as a last resort I'd buy a drill for one time use from Enco. 
Lately 90% of what I have seen there has been junk.  Something has
happened to their purchasing department and they seem to have lost the
ability to find inexpensive quality tools and accessories.  Up until the
last couple of years I bought from Enco but at the present time I
wouldn't.   


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:58 EST 1996
Article: 43134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knorrostol Review
Date: 7 Dec 1996 01:01:45 GMT
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I don't recall a list of ingredients, but I its at work so I can't check
til Monday.  If its on sale, go get a tube, you won't be sorry.  It worked
way better than I thought it would.  I think I payed $10 for the tube,
ought to last awhile unless you got lots of rust.  Don't put too much on,
start with a little dab.

I don't think there's anything terrebly toxic in it, but I wouldn't
recommend eating it.  I don't work for SPI, I'm just real pleased with
this product.

Paul


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 13:58:59 EST 1996
Article: 43135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:25:43 -0800
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In article <32A66246.2198@interport.net>, brucer@interport.net wrote:

> "One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
> contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce

Think about saphire (jewel) bearings with hard pointed steel shaft. Clock
jewels are not to expensive.

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From regisg@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:00 EST 1996
Article: 43136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: small lathe and milling machine
Date: 6 Dec 1996 22:38:50 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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To: dobedave@mindspring.com

If he does not take it, let me know.  I'm 12-14 hr drive away in 
Pensacola Fl and may well try to make the trip.  This is not an 
industrial area and I've not seen any used metal lathes or mills for sale 
(especially quality tools for the home shop).

tx,
Regis

dobedave@mindspring.com (Dave Corgill) wrote:
>"Stephen Kraiman" <dval@vsi.net> wrote:
>
>>I am on the market for a small used lathe and milling machine.  If you've
>>gotten tired of yours or have moved up to something bigger and want to get
>>rid of it, let me know.
>
>
>Don't know where you are located, but I have an old sears 6" metal

>lathe
>I bought new. If you come to my shop in Dallas Texas & unbolt it from
>the table I bolted it to 30 years ago, only ran it for about 100 hours
>you can take it home for $300.00. I have all the books & tooling, 3
>jaw chuck, etc. The table is now used for two drill presses.
>
>
>>Stephen Kraiman
>>steve@dval.com
>>dval@vsi.net
>
>
>.
>dobedave@mindspring.com & The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes)
>Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/
>Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/
>El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/
>




From violette@lightlink.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:01 EST 1996
Article: 43137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  (Martin Violette)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Gear-Head Mill/Drill
Date: 7 Dec 1996 22:43:02 GMT
Organization: ART MATRIX - LIGHTLINK
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In <32A782BE.F83@m6.sprynet.com>, "Robert H. Blodinger" <w4npx@m6.sprynet.com> writes:
>Can anyone out there (not connected with Grizzly and with experience on
>the machine) tell me anything about the quality of the Grizzly G1126
>Gear Head Mill/Drill.
>
>Please email to me direct.  Thanks in advance
>
>BOB
>-- 
>Robert H. Blodinger


I would also be interested - please post any reply as well as answering directly.  Thanks - Martin


From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 13:59:03 EST 1996
Article: 43138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 15:50:44 -0600
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> 
> Whoops, I was a day late and a dollar short (again!)
> The lathe was sold to the first comer.
> The guy who owned it said it was purchased at auction
> from one of the local high schools.
> 
> ANOTHER school shop course bites the dust.
> 
> Jim Waggener
> 
> 
> 
Jim;

My heart goes out to you!  I've been there.  What really hurts is that 
coming from a school, it probably didn't see a lot of use, and onlya 
bit of abuse!



Tom










From phil@pe.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:04 EST 1996
Article: 43139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Philip Canaday <phil@pe.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rust and other finishes
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 16:54:30 -0800
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I am looking for a fast way to speed up rusting as a finish for steel
art. Also would like to learn other ways to create unique finishes.
Thank You
Phil@pe.net


From tomgrant@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:06 EST 1996
Article: 43140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom Grant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
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In article <582b0g$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) writes:
>From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
>Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
>Date: 3 Dec 1996 22:53:04 GMT


>Tom,

>If you've got the space, and since you seem to have a fast link to the
>net, perhaps we can collaborate. I have an idea and some space, would be
>willing to write some code, but have only a 28.8 link from the world to
>my web site.

>Here's the idea: set up an email address to which rcm'ers can mail
>MIME-encoded messages, including a binary file and a description. The
>mail is read by a program/script that deposits the pieces into a file on
>your disk, gins up a URL that points to it, and (this is important)
>posts a message to rcm with the text of the description and the author's
>email address.

>The quick among you will notice that this allows one to build up
>complete web pages from afar, incrementally, using the URLs that have
>been assigned (hmm, there's a patent in there...)

>The posting is important, to help keep track of abuse. If there's a
>posting every time a file gets stuck on the web site, people will notice
>abuse. Most public access FTP sites are quickly overwhelmed by one or
>both kinds of freeloaders: porn distributors, or crackers sharing
>bootleg software. I believe that this method will keep that kind of
>traffic down.

>If the traffic gets heavy, Tom, you can impose a retention limit on the
>files and delete them from time to time. 

>The goal is really low overhead for everyone involved, so this is an
>*easy* way to exchange files of various formats...


 I talked to the young lady that maintains our server and she said that
she would set up an upload directory called  "upload". Anyone can upload
anything into it. She also created a directory called RCM. Which can hold 
files posted from the RCM newsgroup. She told me I would have to screen 
each file manually and move it from the upload directory to the RCM directory.
Not a big problem, I dont think that there are going to be so many files as to 
turn it into a full time job or anything....
This is assuming that the users of this group are computer literate enough to 
upload using FTP software. If they are not, they need to learn how to do it 
anyway, it is a good thing to know how to do!
If they could upload a text file with the same name as the graphic that would 
be nice, and it would make it easier to make an index for the directory as 
well.

Would this work?  Will this work, I just checked and the directories are in 
place. There are even files in it already. Now if the man who sent me those 
pictures would just send me some text files to go with them.....

Do you think we can get away with zipping the files or should they be left 
uncompressed so that all platforms can use them?

Tom



From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:07 EST 1996
Article: 43141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help grinding threads
Date: 7 Dec 1996 22:25:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Jim, 

Unless you are planning tom make new nuts and etc,. or are planning to
make re-circulating ball screws.  I think you are going to alot of
unnecessary work.  The reason for grinding screws is usually for fine
threads that are used in micrometers and similar tools.  I've made many
lead screws from 3" long & up.  The accuracy of the screw is dependent on
the accuracy of the lead screw on the lathe not on the finish you put on
them.  The Brass or Bronze nuts are fast to wear into the lead and pitch
of the screw and will "Break in" fast.  As for the accuracy of the pitch, 
well....
as long as you don't amke any glaring errors in the major and minor dia's
you will end up with an accurate screw by cutting it an a craftsmanlike
manner.


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:08 EST 1996
Article: 43142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: free thread grinder: should I take it??
Date: 7 Dec 1996 22:25:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 5
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Personally I think you should turn it down.  and where is it located by
the way?.
Seriously if you have a use for it or can find a use for it and have the
space or can find the space or can make the space get it.  Personally I'd
put it between the edsel and the 1929 Henway.


From rturner@ecg.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:10 EST 1996
Article: 43143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: rturner@ecg.com (Richard Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: pewter, metals, good source
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 23:37:17 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <32a9fec5.339740827@news.mindspring.com>
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"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:

:>robert bowser wrote:
:>> 
:>> could somebody tell me a good supplier of pewter or the components
:>> to make pewter,  I am looking to manufacturer pewter miniautures
:>> and looking for a good source
:>
:>Oster Alloys (pewter)
:>50 Sims Ave.
:>Providence, RI 02909
:>401/421-3840
:>Claude St. Yves, sales
:>
:>Peter Gomes
:>Lehigh Metals Corp.
:>Lehigh St. Providence, RI 02903
:>1-401-941-7361
:>
:>Atlas Metals
:>1401 Umatilla
:>Denver, CO
:>(303)623-0143
:>
:>-- 
:>Steven O. Smith
:>steve@cc.com

Here's another one;  their prices are a bit better than Oster;  I
don't have any experience with the other folks Steven listed, but I'm
saving the information.

Allan Thurber
P.O. Box 2884
Providence, RI 02907
401 785-2040


Richard

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
rturner@ecg.com


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:11 EST 1996
Article: 43144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More on Jet 1860 lathe
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 18:19:33 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32A4B585.734D@ix.netcom.com>
References: <32A38719.76FF@ix.netcom.com> <19961203170300.MAA09541@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: pnpnolan@aol.com

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32A38719.76FF@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
> <machtool@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> 
> >btw
> >have you paid for this thing in full yet??
> >
> >
> 
> Does this mean you take part payments too Andy????
> 
> Peter


>from  reputable individuals and companies all the time
is there something you would like buy PETER?
hmmm  didn't think so 


best regards
andy popky


From bfairey@wat.hookup.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:12 EST 1996
Article: 43145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CAM
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 15:24:32 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
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On Mon, 02 Dec 1996 21:24:11 -0800, GD <hpbygd@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>I am thinking of adding a computer controled mill to my home shop and
>was wonder if anyone had and ideas on what to look for and also I am
>looking for any good reading material on the same. I am loking for
>something under 20,000 dollars U.S. I am another guy who would rather
>drive a 1,000 dollar car and run a 20,000 dollar mill. Or as I like to
>say if I have to explain it you wouldn't understand! Any thoughts would
>be greatly appreciated.
>                           GD

Get a used Bridgeport type mill and buy a package from AHHA for less
than 20K OR 
get a smaller Taiwanese knee type mill and a different package from
AHHA for less than 10K.
Brian, Ont, Can
I took the second route.


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:13 EST 1996
Article: 43146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MARK (FOOT IN MOUTH) ROGO
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 17:34:12 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32A89F64.3243@ix.netcom.com>
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To: Dave Ficken <mermac@ix.netcom.com>

dave 

very well put
liked your gas analogy

now lets see mark is MDNA member
i guess he was inviting
 all the members of this ng to call
him when they need a manual<w>
he realy is a NICE guy (sigh) 


ap


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:14 EST 1996
Article: 43147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Free Technical Library
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:52:11 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32A816FB.2A22@ix.netcom.com>
References: <58873i$im@juliana.sprynet.com>
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To: mark@mortonmachinery.com

mark@mortonmachinery.com wrote:
> 
> I've seen some postings on technical reading.  There is a HUGE library (above 50,000
> volumes) in Silver Spring, Maryland belonging to MDNA (Machinery Dealers National
> Association). All you need is to find your local MDNA member who is a friendly dealer,


aren't they all friendly????



> and ask him to do you a favor and request a certain manual.  They'll mail it directly to
> him and you can borrow it (although he's still responsible for it!).
> 
> If you need to find a membership directory of MDNA members in your area, call
> 301-585-9494 and ask for a 1996 Buyer's Guide.
> 
> --- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Company
> Visit us at www.mortonmachinery.com


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 13:59:15 EST 1996
Article: 43148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:30:18 GMT
Lines: 36


In a previous article, akgideon@mindspring.com ("Alan K. Gideon") says:

>John O. Kopf wrote:
>> 
>> In article <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com>
>> bohigas@aol.com writes:
>> 
>> > For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
>> 
>> A medeval mechanical computer/"surveying instrument"...contained a star
>> chart so you could hold it up to the sky and twist some bits to find
>> directions (e.g., the arab caravans used it extensively to find Mecca;
>> also used for navigation).
>> 
>> JK
>
>Also used by Columbus (really!)
>
>-- 
>Alan K. Gideon, P.E. | Naval Architect & Marine Engineer
>                     | akgideon@mindspring.com
>
>"If you're not still learning, you've already retired 
>     - your boss just hasn't noticed yet."
>	                         Peter Coffee, November 1996
>
>
>

Yep! The astralabe was used until Hadley invented the sextant in 1785.

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From dgriffit@morgan.ucs.mun.ca Tue Dec 17 13:59:17 EST 1996
Article: 43149 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!news.cs.indiana.edu!news.nstn.ca!coranto.ucs.mun.ca!dgriffit
From: dgriffit@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (David Griffiths)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Corrosion-Need info on aluminum
Date: 7 Dec 1996 12:37:50 GMT
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
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Hello:

We are presently developing materials for a course on self-righting
aluminum lifeboats. We are looking for new or updated information on:

Galvanic corrosion of aluminum
Stray current corrosion (and protection from same)
Aluminum alloys
Filler metals

If anyone could inform us of a good Web or FTP site on these topics it
would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Dave

griff@cgc.ns.ca


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 13:59:18 EST 1996
Article: 43150 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!nrchh45.rich.nt.com!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!bcrkmc8.ott.bnr.ca!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 22:56:50 GMT
Organization: bnr
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <darylb-0612961759060001@bcrkmc8.ott.bnr.ca>
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In article <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> Dear fellow friend:
> For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
> Thank You.
> Alberto
> from London

Round flat brass things ;^)

They are a an early mechanical computor for resolving problems in
spherical geometry quickly and easily.

In the "classic" form they contain a latitude specific plate which shows
the horizon and a gridwork of altitude/azimuths above the horizon. They
can also show elevations below the horizon for twilight calculations.
Above that is a rotating fretwork of metal (called a rete) representing
the celestial sphere. The fretwork usually has little points which
represent specific stars. The ecliptic (an offset circle) is also included
on the rete. Around all this is a 24hr timescale and on top of everything
a rule representing the sun. 

You set the edge of the solar rule (representing the sun) to it's position
on the ecliptic for that date. You then rotate both rete and the rule
(preserving it's position on the rete) so that the edge of the rule is on
the current time. Where the rule intersects the ecliptic over the gridwork
is the position of the sun at that time and date (ie 36deg high, 26deg
south of east, say). 

Similarly you can sight the position of the sun (using another rule on the
back that has sights) and work out the time or you can place the sun on
the horizon and find the time of sunrise or sunset on the date you
queried. Similarly you can do the same for stars. etc etc etc etc etc

The list of things this thing can do is nearly endless the only down side
is you need a plate for each latitude. To remedy that there are universal
versions but they have some down sides too. But that's another story 8^)

If your really interested check out this for a start;

http://myhouse.com/mc/planet/astrodir/astrolab.htm

Hope that helps

Cheers
Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From dukovurl@mail.idt.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:19 EST 1996
Article: 43151 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!nntp.farm.idt.net!news
From: Pat Dworzan <dukovurl@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 18:36:34 -0800
Organization: IDT 
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32A8D832.2DD8@mail.idt.net>
References: <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe0bf$29021bc0$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <32a51bde.1964092@news.sprynet.com> <582re9$3hc@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <589pau$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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Peter Brooks wrote:
> 
> Paul Amaranth (paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com) wrote:
> 
> : A simple grinding table is shown in the Feb '88 Projects in Metal.  This
> : looks like the minimum you would need to be able to gring tool bits
> : properly.
> 
> In Metalworking Book 1.
> 
> : And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
> : is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
> : that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
> : grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.
> 
> In metalworking Book 2.
> 
> : None of these require any castings, although some do require welding.
> 
> The first table does, though I think the second doesn't.  I suspect you
> could work around the welding requirements for the first table if you
> did a good job at setting it up to bolt together.
> 
> Pete Brooks


You can all stop scratching your heads. The April and Oct'91 issues of 
Projects in Metal featured Glenn Wilson's article, A Small Tool and 
Cutter Grinder. This is the one with the air driven spindle. Hope this 
helps.PD



From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:20 EST 1996
Article: 43152 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: 7 Dec 1996 13:56:06 GMT
Organization: (missing)
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <58bt1m$s7c@darla.visi.com>
References: <32a5a3f8.885391@news.islandnet.com><32a5a3f8.885391@news.islandnet.com> <19961206175300.MAA24128@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In message <19961206175300.MAA24128@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
pnpnolan@aol.com6 Dec 1996 17:53:33 GMT writes:
:->Works for me. It is actually a lot harder to describe than it is to do.
:->
:->Peter
:->Still screwing around in the shop.
:->

Sounds like it works, but I still think my method is simpler. I keep
the compund at 29d, unless I'm turning some odd angle. I made a tool
holder years ago that holds an indexable turning tool on one side, and
a indexable threading tool on the other. All I have to do is rotate
the holder 180d and start threading :)

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:21 EST 1996
Article: 43153 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 7 Dec 1996 13:56:07 GMT
Organization: (missing)
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References: <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net><01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <19961206175300.MAA24131@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In message <19961206175300.MAA24131@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
pnpnolan@aol.com6 Dec 1996 17:53:36 GMT writes:
:->I can indicate an edge in the milll or I can use and edge finder to do it.
:->I use the edge finder every time. To suggest that we toss everything but a
:->file is purile.
:->
:->I, for one, was not chastizing, merely pointing out that these things were
:->done manually once, so why not again.
:->

I agree Peter. The first time I centered something in a four jaw chuck
took forever. OK, maybe only an hour. After a bit of practice, it now
takes less than a minute for most pieces, and I didn't have to buy any
special equipment. As the saying goes, Practice makes purrfect :)

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From hjkratt@cybertron.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:23 EST 1996
Article: 43154 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Henry Kratt <hjkratt@cybertron.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn tool/cutter grinder
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 19:41:41 -0800
Organization: Dark Star Mining
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <32AA38F5.2B81@cybertron.com>
References: <586sf8$hbl@chaplin.cs.ubc.ca>
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William Chernoff wrote:
> 
>  Sorry for the re-post, but my original one seems to have
>  disappered almost immediately (ie within a few hours)
> 
>  I am considering buying a Quorn kit tool/cutter grinder and would
>  like opinions from those who already have built/seen one.
> 
>  1: Is the kit complete?
>  2: are the casting s high quality?
>  3: is the design ok?
>  4: are the instructions/plans clear.?
>  5: is the final product usable?
> 
>  Its hard to tell from a photo in a catalog just whats  what.
>  please post here, or email me
> 
>  Bill Chjernoff
>  chernoff@cs.ubc.ca

Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, and Yes.  With the exception, it may depend where
you get the kit and what instructions come with it.  A book by the
designer Prof. D. H. Chaddock (now deceased) is very complete with
instructions as to use.  It is a small machine with a recommended 1/6 hp
motor.  Chaddock designed it to make 1/16" and smaller end mills to
complete a model of a racing engine.  Argus Books (in England) is the
publisher.

Henry


From estep@eagnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:24 EST 1996
Article: 43155 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: estep@eagnet.com (William)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:48:42 GMT
Reply-To: estep@eagnet.com
Message-ID: <32a9b0d8.5340298@news.eagnet.com>
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On Fri, 06 Dec 1996 14:08:24 +0000, Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk>
wrote:

>Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
>other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
>now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
>watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
>confused.

Don't know about that, I just took up quilting.  Requires a great deal
of patience and the ability to do things exactly.  I am working at it.


However, I drink beer, watch football (american) and listen to Janis
Joplin CD's.  I think everyone else is confused.

Happy Holidays!!

Bill


From wgrob@phoenix.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:25 EST 1996
Article: 43156 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wgrob@phoenix.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 96 18:16:58 PDT
Organization: C-Com/Phoenix Data Net (713) 486-8337/ http://www.phoenix.net
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In Article<19961207162100.LAA16938@ladder01.news.aol.com>, <alevy01@aol.com> 
write:
> Path: 
gryphon.phoenix.net!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!feed1.new
s.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsxfer2.itd.umich.edu!cliffs.rs.itd.umich.edu!p
ortc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
> From: alevy01@aol.com
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
> Subject: Basic milling question
> Date: 7 Dec 1996 16:21:21 GMT
> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
> Lines: 8
> Message-ID: <19961207162100.LAA16938@ladder01.news.aol.com>
> NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
> X-Admin: news@aol.com
> Xref: gryphon.phoenix.net rec.crafts.metalworking:39246
> 
> 
>      When to use a two flute end mill, and when to use a four flute end
> mill ?
> 
>      Thanks in advance,
> 
>      A. Levy
> 
DoAll has or had a book that is very good in explaining this
and otherr facts about end mills, it is 
 END MILLING HANDBOOK it was $6.00 ten years ago.
The short answer is that 2 flute are for slots. The books shows why 
with drawns.




From david@psnw.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:26 EST 1996
Article: 43157 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!205.199.144.108!alpine.psnw.com!usenet
From: David Eiman <david@psnw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Levin Radius Lathe F/S or Trade
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 16:36:14 +0000
Organization: ProtoSource Network
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32A99CFE.3B44@psnw.com>
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Listmembers-

A couple of years ago I picked up a '70s vintage Levin Speed Lathe with 
Radius Turning Attachment.  This has the older (clasic) round top 
headstock. I was all excited when I got it and I had big plans for this 
unit.  I haven't fooled with it at all and it is just taking up space.  
It needs some work, but is a nice machine (new one is $8,000 +). This is 
a neat machine used to make contact lenses among other things.  I doubt 
that anyone will argue that Levin is quality stuff and sought by many, 
but out of reach new.

I would like to trade this for something I can use in the way of micro 
machinery or tooling, but will entertain any serious offers.

David Eiman
Fresno, CA


From ldick@voicenet.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:27 EST 1996
Article: 43158 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-14.sprintlink.net!news.voicenet.com!phila108-pri.voicenet.com!user
From: ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 01:14:43 GMT
Organization: Overbrook Forge
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <ldick-0712962023230001@phila108-pri.voicenet.com>
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In article <32a9dcf1.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:

> jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
> 
> >Dan Danknick (xray@pobox.com) wrote:
> >: I just bought one of those cool cutoff tools with the insertable carbide
> >: tips for my lathe. The arm that holds the carbide is 0.5" square and
> >: about 5" long. So I tightened it into my tool post, installed an insert
> >: and started to part a small piece of CRS. Squeal! More cutting fluid.
> >: Squeal! Now the dogs in the neighborhood are barking. Not much cutting
> >: happening at the part, either. Idea: reposition the tool arm closer into
> >: the tool post and retry. Nice cut.
> 
> >: Question: what's going on here? Is my saddle loose on the ways? Short of
> >: cutting nylon or aluminum I can't think of a softer material to cut.
> 
> >Cutoff tools are noted for their tendency to chatter, and it is always
> >recommended to get the tool-post as close to the cut as possible.  In other
> >words, make the length of cutoff tool extend just barely more than the 
> >radius of the workpiece.
> 
> >And, yes, there could be just a bit of looseness in the lathe carriage or
> >slides, or in the spindle.  You should also have the area to be cut as
> >close to the chuck jaws as possible.
> 
> >                                               Jon
> 
> To what Jon said I would add the following about my use of
> an insert cutting tool.
> 
> I use the power cross feed at a feed setting of .0016"  to
> 002" per revolution and totally flood the thing with oil.
> I generally run at the same speed I would if I was turning
> with HSS bits.  I could probably go faster but it would
> fling oil everywhere.  Only problems I have had with an
> insert cutoff tool is when I didn't get it square enough to
> the work or didn't feed it in agressively enough.
> 
> Fitch


Something to think about:
Using carbide for parting on a conventional engine lathe is not a good idea.
Even with a rigid, close to the chuck set up, You will not be able to 
run sufficient surface speed (usually 300sfm or higher) to satisfy carbide
tooling's
cutting requirement. This is especially true as the od reduces. NC machines
part with carbide by using constant surface speed.

Lynn


From sissonp@wamusa.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:28 EST 1996
Article: 43159 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: Phil Sisson <sissonp@wamusa.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Atlas 10" Headstock
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 19:18:09 -0800
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 6
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We have an Atlas 10 F lathe. Its babbitt headstock bearings are shot.
Does anyone know who can re-pour and bore these for a reasonable price
or is Timken bearings the only way out? What will conversion to Timkens
cost?

Phil Sisson    Litchfield, ILL.   Thanks a lot for any help.......


From writt@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:29 EST 1996
Article: 43160 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:20:47 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <19961207002000.TAA02013@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <5898ls$7bv@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>, paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com
(Paul Amaranth) writes:

>Gets to be a real pain when the indicator dial is aimed at the bottom
>of the chip tray.
>
>

For these circumstances I keep a mirror in my toolbox.

I have a loooooog list of tools that I need, therefore, I can't waste
money on that don't expand my capabilities. Redundancy is fine for NASA, 
I can't afford  it.

Bill Rittner


From writt@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:31 EST 1996
Article: 43161 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: writt@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:20:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 17
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X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <585jsl$lcg@juliana.sprynet.com>, mark@mortonmachinery.com
writes:

>And I think you're both wrong.  I like the idea of a metalworking chat
room,
>if the "monitors" can throw people out who have no purpose there or
aren't
>serious or just 
>fooling around.  I would like a place to ask direct questions about our
>industry and get immediate follow-up, rather than this posting stuff.
>
>

I agree with you as long as there is some kind of control. It could  be
fun and informative.

Bill Rittner


From writt@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:32 EST 1996
Article: 43162 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Message from Jim Harvey
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:20:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <585dok$vrd@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) writes:

>Ohyeah?...is it true Jim, that Sherline's are now 50% off for
>Christmas?  If not true, please post a follow-up   <G>
>
>
>

I heard it was 60% <G>.

Bill Rittner


From hps@shore.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:33 EST 1996
Article: 43163 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!newspump.sol.net!mindspring!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.233.85.167!shore!news
From: "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: test world wide
Date: 8 Dec 1996 01:34:39 GMT
Organization: Henry's Machine Shop
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <58d5vf$iap@fridge-nf0.shore.net>
References: <E20oIu.G8t@iglou.com>
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To: rooster@iglou.com

Its making it out to the shore of Massachussetts at least 

Henry



From rooster@iglou.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:34 EST 1996
Article: 43164 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.stealth.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.107.41.5!iglou!iglou.com!rooster
From: rooster@iglou.com (Rooster)
Subject: test world wide
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: iglou1
X-Nntp-Posting-User: rooster
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Sender: news@iglou.com (News Administrator)
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 00:11:18 GMT
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i am trying to find out if my news program is restricting my posts to my
internet site only. 

this is a test.  if you are from Norway or North Dakota, you could e-mail
me and i would know if this is getting out.

thanks in advance.

--
rooster



From tig415@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:35 EST 1996
Article: 43165 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tig415@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: mcnichols 800#
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:32:45 GMT
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mcnichols 800 237 3820


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:37 EST 1996
Article: 43166 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-feed.iguide.com!delphi.com!usenet
From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:25:44 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <58adi8$jk0@news2.delphi.com>
References: <demers_bob-0512960926560001@ronin.htc.honeywell.com>
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X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.3

Bob DeMers wrote:
>
>In some storie's, the pilot's bowels were also well lubricated, resulting
>in a raging case of diarrhea.
>
I have it on competent medical authority (my doctor was an old plane buff)
that this is indeed the case. Further, he told me that the castor fumes are
much more effective than castor oil.

Lotrimil not having been invented, the best remedy the pilots had was
blackberry brandy, which he said countered the effects of the castor fumes
to some extent. As a result, most pilots swigged the stuff constantly when
flying.

This would explain a great deal about WWI in the air.

BTW: An effect of rotary engines which has not been mentioned is what
happened when you tried to make a turn. The combination of a large rotating
mass and light airframes made the gryoscopic effects considerable. Most
planes with rotary engines could turn on a dime in one direction and were
slow to turn in the other. They also had a nasty tendency to spin.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:38 EST 1996
Article: 43167 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 00:25:50 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.3

bohigas wrote:
>Dear fellow friend:
>For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
>Thank You.
>Alberto
>from London
>
An astrolabe is a primitive navigation instrument designed to measure the
height of a star above the horizon, thereby letting you determine how far
north or south you are. Mechanically they are quite simple, being a metal
circle with one or two sighting vanes that pivot at the center. However
they need to be marked off and ruled rather precisely.

Quite a handsome piece of work, especially since they were often decorated.
Chaucer wrote a treatise on how to use one.

--RC


From wblack@mail.fgi.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:39 EST 1996
Article: 43168 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!juniper.cis.uab.edu!maze.dpo.uab.edu!cpk-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!NTNEWS!not-for-mail
From: Walt Black <wblack@mail.fgi.net>
Subject: Tapers with compound ?
Message-ID: <32A92040.434F@mail.fgi.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:44:00 -0800
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win16; I)
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I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound. 
Do you bring the carriage back to a stop, then advance the compound into
the work at the proper angle then cut with the carriage advance,
repeating until the taper is cut?  Obviously you cnat just feed the
compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.  I have
the South Bend Book on using a lathe and it doesn't explain this very
well. As a new amateur machinist I would appreciate a somewhat detailed
explanation please.

Walt Black
wblack@fgi.net




From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:40 EST 1996
Article: 43169 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "Malachi Constant" <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TO ANDY POPKY
Date: 8 Dec 1996 01:17:12 GMT
Organization: Magnum Opus
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1132

Hey Andy, whoever you are, alot of people are e-mailing me and asking for
you!  My e-mail is tool@ix.netcom.com, yours isn't so why do some of your
postings say that it is?



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:41 EST 1996
Article: 43170 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-19.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need source of supply for wire mesh
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 03:00:20 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32aa1f35.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <57oacu$27f@news.snet.net>
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Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net> wrote:

>I want to build small animal cages of 6-12 cubic feet. Can anybody direct 
>me to a supply source for sheets or rolls of wire mesh?

Home Depot is one, a Farm supply store is another.

Fitch





From amuller@dca.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:42 EST 1996
Article: 43171 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 15:58:36 GMT
Organization: Alan Muller & Assoc., Inc.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <58c47c$47c@news.dca.net>
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In article <58ai8a$87t@newshost.netrix.com>, holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder) says:
>
>Chris (chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca) wrote:
>: Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
>: rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
>: in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
>: There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
>: around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.
>
As a data point, I have to replace the diodes in a Miller "Dialarc" 
250 Amp AC/DC welder.  According to Miller, these diodes are 150A 300 V.
They cost about $26 from Miller which is the same price I got from
an electronics supply house.

Hope this helps.


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:43 EST 1996
Article: 43172 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HAPPY HANUKAH
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 00:44:24 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 12
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> happy Hanukah to all you groupies out there
> 
> andy popky


And a happy Hanukah to you.  

Take a look at my menorah at http://www.abrasha.com/judaica.html

Abrasha


From tlipton@ccnet.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:44 EST 1996
Article: 43173 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mg Welding
Date: 5 Dec 1996 02:32:02 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <585c72$maf@ccnet2.ccnet.com>
References: <57s7tb$27m2@ns5-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: h206-80-53-102.ccnet.com

jdc6@Lehigh.EDU wrote:
>
> I have a need to TIG weld magnesium castings, specifically VW engine cases,
> and have not found much on the subject in my references. 
> 
>
> John,

  Tig welding Magnesium is no more difficult than welding Aluminum.
I have noticed a general trend in this news group about the hazards of
Magnesium melting and welding. I have Tig welded Mag concrete finishing
tools and motorcycle cases and brake backing plates without as much as a hint
of a problem. The flammability hazard of Magnesium is highly overrated.
  The hazards of magnesium come from finely divided particles, like dust
and chips of magnesium, which admitidly are quite flammable. Clean up the dust after you prep the weld and you should 
have no problem. 
 I am not sure what cast alloy VW cases are made from so I cannot recommend
a filler rod. A common cast alloy of mag is AZ91E and AZ91C. Talk to the local
VW engine builders and they can problably help you. Argon or Helium can be used for
Tig welding magnesium. 
For additional information on the subject you can look in Joining Magnesium by the 
Dow metal products company, The welding handbook from the American welding society.
> 

  TML


From jbarry1000@aol.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:45 EST 1996
Article: 43174 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jbarry1000@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 14:43:33 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <19961207144300.JAA15287@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

Cole Palmer sells a lexan vacuume jar and base cheap <$100. Any small
vacuum pump will do for your application. Oil type are best and can be
found used for about $200. The venturi model might work as well.


From kbm@spiff.hr.att.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:46 EST 1996
Article: 43175 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!alice!allegra!ulysses!newshub.netnews.att.com!news
From: Kevin Meier <kbm@spiff.hr.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 15:25:21 -0500
Organization: Operations Technology Center
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32A72FB1.560B@spiff.hr.att.com>
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com> <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl> <32A448C5.3A02@spiff.hr.att.com> <E1y0Gs.GJ6@yc.estec.esa.nl>
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Charles Stroom wrote:
> 
> In article <32A448C5.3A02@spiff.hr.att.com>,
> Kevin Meier  <kbm@spiff.hr.att.com> wrote:
> >If you don't have an aversion to downloading 2Mb movies, there is
> >a fairly good .mpg of one of these posts being installed on a lathe
> >and a tool-holder installed on the post at:
> >
> >  http://www.nmis.org/EducationTraining/machineshop/05/l_toolpost.mpg
> >       Kevin Meier
> 
> like a charm!  40 secs to download, a good video and thanks for the
> very useful http address.  It is really great.
> 
> --
> Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV
> 
> charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
> European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands

I probably should have also mentioned that this is a part of a whole
series, which has a lot of good "getting started" kinds of instructions
for a bunch of different machines.  The root URL is:

http://me.mit.edu/2.70/machine/outline.html

You probably have already found all of this, but maybe there is
someone who has not yet seen it.

	Kevin Meier


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:47 EST 1996
Article: 43176 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news01.aud.alcatel.com!news.alcatel.fr!news-lond.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-paris.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-stkh.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!eru.mt.luth.se!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 15:14:16 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32A9D018.2DE4@ix.netcom.com>
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To: Mark Watzl <ZACZ89A@prodigy.com>

mark

you can probably get away with a wood saw
you may end up changing pulleys
to slow down your speed
if you are cutting steel you will 
most likely have to slow it down


regards
andy popky


From ericm@netrunner.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:48 EST 1996
Article: 43177 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Eric Meyer <ericm@netrunner.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Message from Jim Harvey
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:17:40 -0500
Organization: NetRunner Internet Services, Inc
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32A78244.2CC6@netrunner.net>
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writt@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <585dok$vrd@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
> Waggener) writes:
> 
> >Ohyeah?...is it true Jim, that Sherline's are now 50% off for
> >Christmas?  If not true, please post a follow-up   <G>
> >
> 
> I heard it was 60% <G>.
> 
> Bill Rittner

60% I thought it was 100% and hand delivered down the chimney *<|8-#)>
hohoho 9 reindeer butts, 24 hours AAIIEEEEEE

seriously - order by the 25th as per his web page and it's 15%


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 13:59:49 EST 1996
Article: 43178 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drum Clutch
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 08:25:39 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <jesw-0612960825390001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <32A4FBEA.7EF3@nbnet.nb.ca> <19961205030300.WAA17024@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> >I have a 25-1 reduction gearbox rated at 25 hp which I want to convert
> >to a logging winch. The output shaft is 10 inches long-the first 4" is 
> >3" in dia. and the remaining 6" is 2" in dia. Does anyone know of a
> >simple clutch design or an industrial application that I can use with a 
> >drum mounted on this shaft that would be free-turning to pull out the
> >cable and would turn the drum when power is applied to the input shaft.
> >Any help would be appreciated.

Automatic 4WD front hubs might do it. The wheel turns freely either way
while the axle is stationary. Once the axle starts turning, it forces a
cam into engagement with the wheel. Maybe you can salvage one.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From dobedave@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:50 EST 1996
Article: 43179 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: dobedave@mindspring.com (Dave Corgill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: small lathe and milling machine
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 18:38:27 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <58ch2v$qjc@camel4.mindspring.com>
References: <01bbe3ad$b84b2380$3c6b8ecf@Kraiman.vis.net> <58a5kp$q92@camel0.mindspring.com> <32A99E6E.3473@onramp.net>
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Dave Hills <dhills@onramp.net> wrote:

>Dave Corgill wrote:
>> 

>> 
>> Don't know where you are located, but I have an old sears 6" metal
>> lathe
>> I bought new. If you come to my shop in Dallas Texas & unbolt it from
>> the table I bolted it to 30 years ago, only ran it for about 100 hours
>> you can take it home for $300.00. I have all the books & tooling, 3
>> jaw chuck, etc. The table is now used for two drill presses.




>What is the model number of your Sears lathe? 

>Is it the 6"x18"?
Yes. Model number 101 21400 . It will need new
vee belts, old ones are looking old. & a good cleaning.
I've been spraying WD40 on it for 25 years ;)






>-- 
>Dave Hills, P.E.
>DH Associates
>dhills@onramp.net


.
dobedave@mindspring.com & The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes)
Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/
Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/



From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 13:59:51 EST 1996
Article: 43180 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Timer question
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 18:08:59 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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I need a timer to control my 2 1/2 gallon rock tumbler which I use for
silica slurry for ceramic shell mold building.  Uses 1/3 horse motor, 7
amps @ 115 volt.  Motor rated contacts would be a plus, but I have a
small starter which I could use with a relay from timer.  Need 4 to 6
cycles per hour with adjustment for on time. I currently run the motor
24 hours and this is no doubt a waste of power. I would like something
cheap of course!  Any Ideas?

Thanks,
Randy Cox


From akgideon@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:52 EST 1996
Article: 43181 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Alan K. Gideon" <akgideon@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:52:17 -0500
Organization: Self
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32A81701.7D39@mindspring.com>
References: <19961205121300.HAA25984@ladder01.news.aol.com>  
	 <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com> <588c8a$rs5@news.aimnet.com>
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John O. Kopf wrote:
> 
> In article <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com>
> bohigas@aol.com writes:
> 
> > For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
> 
> A medeval mechanical computer/"surveying instrument"...contained a star
> chart so you could hold it up to the sky and twist some bits to find
> directions (e.g., the arab caravans used it extensively to find Mecca;
> also used for navigation).
> 
> JK

Also used by Columbus (really!)

-- 
Alan K. Gideon, P.E. | Naval Architect & Marine Engineer
                     | akgideon@mindspring.com

"If you're not still learning, you've already retired 
     - your boss just hasn't noticed yet."
	                         Peter Coffee, November 1996




From pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 13:59:53 EST 1996
Article: 43182 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk ("Paul C. Dickie")
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 23:37:50 GMT
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <849915470snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <babcock.58.005AEFF5@infi.net> <5887op$272@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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In article <5887op$272@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
           casherwood@lucent.com "Chuck Sherwood" writes:

>
>>Sounds like a lot of work.  Why not just get the boiler kit from PM research.
>>Tom
>
>Well, building the PM boiler is a lot of work too. It has flues which may
>make it more work. It also uses tables for fuel which are not cheap.
                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Couldn't one burn old chair legs, railway ties or whatever lumber is to hand?

That'd be cheaper...

-- 
< Paul >
 
 



From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Tue Dec 17 13:59:54 EST 1996
Article: 43183 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ultranews.duc.auburn.edu!news.fsu.edu!usenet
From: Ron Thompson <thompson@psy.fsu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info on rifle actions
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 13:08:59 -0500
Organization: Florida State Univ.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32A8613B.1495@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <19961126175800.MAA10770@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57v87q$qnn@login.freenet.columbus.oh.us> <32A4381D.7A9@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil> <32A49617.66A4@mindspring.com>
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Alan K. Gideon wrote:
> 
> Joseph Burnett wrote:
> >
> > Isaac Wilder wrote:
> > >
> > > teamhail@aol.com wrote:
> > > : I'm trying to find info on building your own actions, I'm interested in
> > > : Falling Blocks, and bolt actions.  I've seen some info in the Machinist's
> > > : Bedside Readers, but was wondering if anyone has any other info/plans
> > > : available.
> 
> Before you go any further, you should probably check with the BATF to
> find out which laws you are about to violate.
> 
> --
> Alan K. Gideon, P.E. | Naval Architect & Marine Engineer
>                      | akgideon@mindspring.com
> 
> "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest.  The ugliest is that man
> who thinks nothing is worth fighting or dying for, and lets men
> better and braver than himself protect him."   --   John Stuart Mill

This comes up from time to time here. The laws are not as restrictive as
you might think. I am not up on them, but my son who held a class III 
license (machine guns, etc.) as well as a FFL assures me that it can
legaly be done. Of course there are regulations as to what you can make.

Ron
-- 
Ron Thompson
http://mailer.fsu.edu/~rthompso/ron-page.html
Psychology Dept.                | Voice 904-644-4718  fax 904-644-7739
Florida State University        | Amateur Radio N4FHO
Tallahassee,  FL 32306-1051     | member Florida Flywheelers


From marklinc@ocala.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:55 EST 1996
Article: 43184 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.atlantic.net!usenet
From: Robin Corsiglia <marklinc@ocala.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plans for a Model Steam Engine
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 06:17:46 +0000
Organization: TOY STEAM ENGINES
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Hi All,
I found the plans pictures, & instructions for a Model Steam Engine in
an October 1944 issue of Mechanix Illustrated.  No castings required &
can be built entirely from stock pieces of metal on your lathe.  It is
double acting and can run on compressed air.  I know nothing about
machining or how easy these plans are to follow.  There are two pages of
Blue Prints and several pictures and instructions for a total of 8
pages.  I will copy these for anyone who mails me $2.00.
You can visit  my Web Page & see a picture of this engine, short write
up, and a half page of one of the blue prints.

http://www.atlantic.net/~marklinc/

I also found a March 1942 Issue with pictures & instructions on making
piston rings easily and quickly for model steam enignes.

Remember to keep an eye out for Toy Steam Enignes and Pop-Pop Boats for
sale and Email me a Description, Name, Address, and phone number of any 
you find.

Thanks,

Robin Corsiglia
5200 NE 9th Lane
Ocala, FL 34470  USA



From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 13:59:56 EST 1996
Article: 43185 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 15:24:35 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 6 Dec 1996 22:23:49 GMT, bohigas@aol.com wrote:

OK, in your e-mail, you said you were looking for the IMPACT FORCE
(not mentioned in your original post).

You mention a steam cushion was used to absorb some of the vibration.
Without knowing what cushioning effect that may have, the impact can
not be calculated.  Also, the friction caused by the sleeve around the
cylinder will have some effect.

If your cylinder were being dropped in a vacuum, with no other forces
acting upon it, and if it were stopped with no deceleration, it would
hit with a force of blow of approx. 18,450 lbs.

Again, all figures and formulae from Machinery's Handbook.

Gee, I love getting homework on weekends <VBG>!

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 13:59:58 EST 1996
Article: 43186 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 11:55:36 GMT
Organization: A customer of Pacific Bell Internet Services
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <jesw-0512960856320001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
>(James Wilkins) writes:

>>The overload has never kicked out in 20 years of use. The idea was to
>find
>>the manufacturer's maximum allowable current rating and size the pulleys
>>to get near it but only for short intervals. 
>>
>>

>Yup, I understoof that from your post but my concern would be if an air
>hose breaks or develops a bad leak then the compressor runs full time
>until someone notices or in  this case the overload trips or *worse*
>doesn't trip! That could be days if we go away fro the weekend. It eats
>too far into the safety margin.

>The Motors on my Campbell Hausfields are rated for continuous use. The
>only thing that gets really hot is the air delivery tube from the
>compressor to the receiver. That would not be too much of a problem if it
>ran for three days with a big leak.

>Peter

With Mr. Wilkins' configuration a broken air line or other rapid leak
would not cause the motor to burn up.  Motor current rises as the
pressure rises, so a fast leak will drop the pressure and keep the
motor from burning up.

In such a configuration, rapid start/stop operation would seriously
overheat the start windings, but that is not the manner in which he
appears to use it.

BTW almost all compressor motors are rated at 1.15 service factor
which indicates they can all run continously at rated HP and withstand
fluctuations in input voltage and momentary overload (like TDC
condition of the pump).  

-Reckless



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 13:59:59 EST 1996
Article: 43187 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 11:55:38 GMT
Organization: A customer of Pacific Bell Internet Services
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chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris ) wrote:

>Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
>rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
>in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
>There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
>around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

>Anybody tried this?

>Chris

I'd use 450A diodes if you expect them to live, though if you just
happen to have some 200A units laying around just waiting to be used
for something, give 'em a try.

They will need to be on *BIG* heat sinks.  Average power dissipation
for diodes like that is 1.2W/amp which makes for at lot of heat.
Since each diode will only dissipate power when it is "on" which is
1/2 the time, each will dissipate 120watts at full power!

You might consider an "arc stabilizer" choke if the transients are
really ugly.  Just a thought.

Good luck,
-Reckless




From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:00 EST 1996
Article: 43188 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:20:55 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
Lines: 68
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Jay:
> 
> I have noted your great expertise in manipulating numbers,
> now perhaps you would like to help me with this question.
> 
> In my native Spain, we have a Steam Ram in our workshop,
> this machine was probaly build in the late 1900 and has been
> used in the manufacturer of coins. For the last 25 years nobody
> has touched the machine, because nobody can still remember
> the tonnage of the RAM. Can you help ?
> 
> The machine worked according to the following principle.
> 
> An upright solid steel cylinder of 12 " diametre and a length of 6 ft, was
> 
> elevated with saturated steam by 8 ft, and mechanically locked.
> 
> On demand the cylinder was released and then crashed down
> with its full weight into the forming  tool, creating the coin image.
> A steam cushion was then used to absorb some of the vibration.
> 
> My question is:
> 
> What is the tonnage of the RAM ?
> 
> Your help is very much welcome.
> 
> Alberto.


Alberto

I understand that the steel cylinder is a solid ram 12" D x 72"H.
It free falls 8 feet, striking the die.

The ram's weight would be about 2303 lbs. The WORK performed by the
falling ram would be about 18424 ft-lb. 

To find the force exerted you must first find the velocity of the
falling ram. The ram drops 8 feet at the gravitational acceleration 32
ft/second sqrared. Thats a velocity of about 22.63 feet/second. Velocity
equals the square root of two  times the gravitational constant times
the distance. So you have a 2303 lb ram falling at a velocity of 22.36
ft/sec for about .3535 sec (thats 8 ft/ 22.63 ft/sec).

Force = mv/gt = (2303 lb x 22.63 ft/sec)/(32 ft/sec2 x .3535 sec)
Force = 4607.22 lbs

One may rate the machine at 2.3 tons, another might rate it 9.2 tons.
Where have we seen this type of discrepency recently? (Compressor horse
power ratings)

Steam drop hammers were in their prime around the turn of the century
but are not used much today. Some designs allowed steam to power the ram
down there by greatly increasing its tonnage. This was common in steam
forging hammers of that era. 

The steam drop hammer was propaply retired because a more efficient,
safer, and easier to use machine was available. A mechanical or
hydraulic press would be a fraction of the size and require much less
energy to do the same amount of work.

The force of a falling body does not have as much punch as a machine
that uses energy with mechanical advantage multiplying its force.

Jay


From jbsmith@mail.microserve.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:01 EST 1996
Article: 43189 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jarrod Smith <jbsmith@mail.microserve.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:19:33 -0800
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39422 rec.collecting.dolls:29903 rec.collecting.ornaments:19 rec.collecting.paper-money:3023 rec.collecting.phonecards:8580 rec.collecting.postal-history:2248 rec.collecting.sport:63 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:192204 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:112212 rec.collecting.sport.football:141672 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:102828 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14014 rec.collecting.stamps:40857 rec.collecting.villages:5643 rec.crafts:74 rec.crafts.beads:11731 rec.crafts.brewing:109792 rec.crafts.carving:1001 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3107 rec.crafts.glass:4128 rec.crafts.jewelry:16082 rec.crafts.marketplace:10790 rec.crafts.metalworking:43189 rec.crafts.misc:27116 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11445 rec.crafts.pottery:3253 rec.crafts.quilting:93 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2156 rec.crafts.textiles:102 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1018 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5396 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:94968 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:33839

I spoke to God and he said to leave us alone!!!!

Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!


From dhills@onramp.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:02 EST 1996
Article: 43190 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave Hills <dhills@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: small lathe and milling machine
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 10:42:22 -0600
Organization: DH Associates
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32A99E6E.3473@onramp.net>
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Dave Corgill wrote:
> 

> 
> Don't know where you are located, but I have an old sears 6" metal
> lathe
> I bought new. If you come to my shop in Dallas Texas & unbolt it from
> the table I bolted it to 30 years ago, only ran it for about 100 hours
> you can take it home for $300.00. I have all the books & tooling, 3
> jaw chuck, etc. The table is now used for two drill presses.




What is the model number of your Sears lathe? 

Is it the 6"x18"?




-- 
Dave Hills, P.E.
DH Associates
dhills@onramp.net



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:04 EST 1996
Article: 43191 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 13:55:59 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu

Saying that something is automatically "good" because it's made
in country X and something is automatically "bad" because it's
made in country Y is pretty silly.  Some places may IN GENERAL
produce better- or lesser-quality equipment, but one really has
to look at each individual case.

I think USA tools are still pretty good.



From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:05 EST 1996
Article: 43192 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 17:11:12 GMT
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: Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
: rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
: in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
: There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
: around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

Such diodes are so slow to respond to high frequencies that nothing above
about 200Hz will even pass throungh them.  Also, diodes that are rated
200A usually mean avarage current (make sure it's not peak current), and
in a full wave bridge rectifier on a 200A welder, each diode will pass an
avarage of 100A, giving you a wide safety margin. You can even use 150A
avarage 300A peak without problems. Heat sinking and cooling is a must. I
opened up my 200A 35V mig, and it had the diodes arranged like this

a diode is represented by >-
             |>-  |    |>-  |
             |  -<|    |  -<|
            /                 \
          /                    \
         /                      \
       /                         \
      /                           \
     ------------------------------
         20" 1/2HP fan
You will have to take 4 pieces of 5x5x1/4 in aluminum or copper, mill
little 1/8x1/8 grooves in them (leaving a raised area where the diodes
sit. Put heat sink compound (that nasty white stuff) on the raised pieces
of the heat sink. Than mill pieces of suitable plastic to insulate the
pieces. Make the duct out of sheet aluminum. This is exactly how my
industial welder is made, and I think it's a bit overdone, but than you
can be prud of your work and have a welder that lasts almost forever. By
the way, read the voltage rating, and get one a bit more, just in case. My
welder, which is 35V max uses 50V diodes.

Alex.



From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:07 EST 1996
Article: 43193 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB:  Die Filer
Date: 8 Dec 1996 03:53:01 GMT
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I'm looking for a die filer.  Age and condition isn't really important but
all the parts and pieces must be there.  I can rebuild it if needed and
even make some new parts if the old ones are worn out.  Will pay reasable
crating and shipping costs.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:08 EST 1996
Article: 43194 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tapers with compound ?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 20:18:00 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Walt Black <wblack@mail.fgi.net> wrote:

>I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound. 
<snip>
>  Obviously you cnat just feed the
>compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.

You can rough out the taper first either by using the infeed or by
using the compound. I usually use the compound and start the cut at
the end that will be the thin side and take a slice however thick the
setup will allow. I then move the carriage a bit towards the thick end
of the taper (by as much as I can cut off in one pass of the compound)
and take another slice off the work piece. 
Don't know if this description makes any sense but what it ends up as
is a gradual taper buildup from the pointy end of the taper until you
got the right length of taper (or the right small or large end) 

Yes, I know what I am trying to say - it just doesn't come out too
well :)


Jens


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:09 EST 1996
Article: 43195 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 13:05:43 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 6 Dec 1996 15:39:04 -0700, tomgrant@primenet.com (Tom Grant) wrote:

>Would this work?  Will this work, I just checked and the directories are in 
>place. There are even files in it already. Now if the man who sent me those 
>pictures would just send me some text files to go with them.....
>
>Do you think we can get away with zipping the files or should they be left 
>uncompressed so that all platforms can use them?

This sounds great!  Now the pictures can be seen to go with the words.

I vote for zipping them, saves a bunch on connect time.  Even with
unlimited connect time from the ISP, some of us still pay for the
phone call.  Plus, I've got better things to do than sit and watch a
download in progress.  If they are zipped, we should also provide an
unzipping tool on the site for the various platforms.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:10 EST 1996
Article: 43196 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:51:13 -0800
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Message-ID: <32A921F1.1284@earthlink.net>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
Reply-To: xmas4lites@earthlink.net
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John Earle wrote:
> 
> Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
> say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
> of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
> sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
> equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
> 
> Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would
> work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
> 
> Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.

John,

Depending on how much open time your potting compound has(the time you
have to mix and work with the mixture before it starts to gel), and the
volume you need to evacuate, you will probably need a decent vacuum
pump.

I mix a lot of resins and use a (real) 1/3 HP rotary vane vacuum pump
and 12" bell jar. I bought them from a lab supply about fifteen years
ago and they are indespensible for processing some of the resins. It
cost a few hundred for the set-up but it paid for it self in no time.

I've used asperator type eductor vacuum generators, refrigerator
compressor conversions and reversed air compressors. None can compare to
the real thing. This is especially true if you are working with fast
reactions like urethanes and or high viscosity materials like silicones.
If you don't pull a good vacuum fast your mix may set while it is
frothing. If your use is limited you can use a vacuum tank to help speed
up your pull down. Used vacuum pumps are also an option.

The quality of the bell jar is really important too! Mine is molded
Lexan. I shutter to think what would happen if a glass jar imploded
while soneone was standing next to it. For safety sake don't skimp here.

Hope this helps,

Jay


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:12 EST 1996
Article: 43197 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and the Internet
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 13:05:46 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32ae6ad5.2759845@news.sprynet.com>
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On Fri, 6 Dec 1996 16:30:35 LOCAL, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron
Ginger) wrote:

>Any of you that were at NAMES (North AmericanModel Enigneer Show) last year 
>may recall that we had a seminar session each day called Metalworking and the 
>Internet.
>
>I have been asked by the organizers to do it again, and hapily agreeded.
>
>Now I have started thinking about how we could put the NAMES show 'on the net' 
>I know some other events have made a 'live' event on the web, but I have never 
>paid much attention to the details.
>
>Any suggestions on how we could do some kind of web 'event' connected to NAMES?
>
>At the very least we can have our meeting again this year, but can we do 
>something that ties in the folks that cant come to Michigan?

Ron,

Count me in, I'll be there again this year (and I promise I won't miss
the seminar this time).

I like the idea of a Web Event.  Many folks can't make the trip
(though more should try<g>), so how can we "spread the gospel" of
Modelmaking/Metalworking?

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:13 EST 1996
Article: 43198 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: free thread grinder: should I take it??
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:57:30 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32AA3CAA.44D4@ix.netcom.com>
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To: gunner312@aol.com

gunner312@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Personally I think you should turn it down.  and where is it located by
> the way?.
> Seriously if you have a use for it or can find a use for it and have the
> space or can find the space or can make the space get it.  Personally I'd
> put it between the edsel and the 1929 Henway.


hey gunner

have you been drinking
you don't make bit of sense


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:14 EST 1996
Article: 43199 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:59:50 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32A834E6.5256@cyberhighway.net>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <babcock.58.005AEFF5@infi.net>
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To: Tom <babcock@infi.net>

Tom wrote:.....
> 
> Sounds like a lot of work.  Why not just get the boiler kit from PM research.
> Tom

Sound like he WANTS to build a boiler...

Anyone with $$$ can buy one, how many build them?
Otherwise it's like hanging someone else's trophy bass on
your wall.

Actually I couldn't believe how fast my old pistol shooting
trophies and medals sold at my garage sale.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From jrr0@watson.ibm.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:16 EST 1996
Article: 43200 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrr0@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Watch Your Feet
Date: 6 Dec 1996 14:59:11 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <588d9e$2g5@beetle.privatei.com>, mmcdade@mantis.privatei.com (Mark McDade) writes:
>Yet another little safety warning/story - this one with a
>relatively happy ending.
  <tale of flying motors deleted>
>
>Mark McDade - mmcdade@sybase.com

I mention the rigger's fundamental rule:  Never place any
part of a human body under a load that is being lifted.
I watch the pro riggers here at work, and they always
follow it.  When I see the scientists here lifting something,
the *invariably* violate that rule.  I think there's an 
irresistable need for them to see "what's underneath,"
or "what's holding this thing up?"

Hope your toe heals fast.  I dropped a puny bicycle
wheel off at truing stand when I was a kid, onto my
toe.  Eventually wound up at the podiatrist after
about 2 months.  That hurts!

Jim



From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:17 EST 1996
Article: 43201 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need Patent number
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 16:43:21 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Years ago, I saw this marvelous self-leveling dictionary stand.  About
90-100 yrs old, it had two wooden platforms (the rest was cast iron)
that supported each side of your dictionary.  As you flipped from
place to place in the dictionary, the platforms adjusted height to
relieve stress on the binding.

I love this semi useless technology and have kicked myself ever since
for not buying the thing.  If anyone out there has seen one or knows
where one is, I would love to get the patent number off of it and see
if I can reproduce it in a non-floor standing model.

Roger


From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:18 EST 1996
Article: 43202 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 06:13:45 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32A97B99.1C57@silcom.com>
References: <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net> <alshinn-0212962243500001@ppp100-sf2.sirius.com> <581voq$910@wnnews1.netlink.net.nz>
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Lawrence Boul wrote:
> >pilecki@interport.net wrote:
> >
> >> hello-
> >> Just wondering if anyone in this ng could advise me about a project I am
> >> working on.  Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
> >> metal surface - specifically nikle silver. I highly doubt whether I could
> >> use photographic developing techniques as there is no "tooth" for it to
> >> grab onto. An apperance of a photographic image on the surface of the
> >> metal is what I am aiming for regardless of the process. Any ideas?. Any
> >> feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Get some "Liquid Silver" at a photography store (Rockland Colloids).  In
a safety lamp equiped darkroom, you heat the bottle in some hot water to
melt the gelatin, then apply to your surface by dipping, painting,
squeegee, spray, etc.  Let dry for a few hours or put under a little
heat.  You want a film a few thou thick.
One uses an enlarger on this in the usual way, and the usual BW
chemicals.

At the electronic supply companies (one step up from radio shack) you
can buy a can of spray photoresist.  This can be applied to whatever you
want, developed with sodium carbonate solution, and etched.  Again, a
thin film does the trick.

This should do it for scales and markings.

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:19 EST 1996
Article: 43203 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:19:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 15
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In article <19961206135200.IAA20455@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
vincent49@aol.com writes:

>If anyone has built one , if they please post a JPEG or gif somewhere ,
>and  notify the newsgroup , this curious cat would be happy.
>
>PS I need a T/C grinder , it is not just idle curiosity
>
>

Me too. I have a scan from the current PM. It compressed (?) to 1.6M and I
go onto unlimited time after the 8th so I can attach it ti e-mail then.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:20 EST 1996
Article: 43204 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:19:43 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <586enl$781@news-e2d.gnn.com>, toby@Horton-Brasses.com writes:

>Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves 
>makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.
>
>

Sounds like a job for CNC-EDM

Peter



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:22 EST 1996
Article: 43205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 14:17:28 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Daryl:

Thanks for putting so much effort into a very descriptive
detailed reply.

In fact I was looking into my local lang. dic. and I was unable
to find it, its so intresting to enrich once horizon.

Alberto


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:00:24 EST 1996
Article: 43206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:38:21 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <58aapd$7ms@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> frwillia@ptw.com writes:
>
>If one had a source of inexpensive diamond laps, and could
>machine a suitable hum, a couple of those small DC motors
>might make a homebrew Carbide cutter grinder similar to the
>Glendo machine.  Or maybe one could use a higher powered one
>to make a cold saw.  
>

In order to make a Christmas project, I'm building a faceting machine. 
 (I'm always getting into these projects where I have to make something
to make something) I'm using an old 5 1/4 floppy drive as the source of
turning power. The _old_ drives had a little servo controller board on
the back of the drive - you could hook it up to 12V and use the little
pot on the board to vary the speed.  Later models integrated everything
onto one board and are not so easy to deal with.  I would guess you end
up with something in the range of 300-400 rpm.  That servo controller
gives a surprising amount of torque.

Anyway, I was at a lapidary shop and they were selling laps for around
$80-$100.  It has not escaped my attention that this might be a way
of sharpening tool bits as well.



-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:25 EST 1996
Article: 43207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:18:36 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 13
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I have built the PM boiler... It goes together fairly quick.  I have never
run an electric model boiler, but from what I have read, they don't
deliver consistant pressure.  The PM boiler is easy to convert to
propane... buy at a garage sale a small, camping propane stove, and
cannibalize one of the burners (orifice too) which will bolt to the base
of the PM boiler.

If you do this project, I recommend you paint the aluminum base and
chimney castings with barbeque stove paint or black engine enamel.

Kurt Bjorn




From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:26 EST 1996
Article: 43208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 15:05:06 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <586enl$781@news-e2d.gnn.com>, toby@Horton-Brasses.com writes:
> 
> >Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves
> >makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.
> >
> >
> 
> Sounds like a job for CNC-EDM
> 
> Peter


peter

you need to get with the times<w>
this is a job Laser CNC

maybe if you watched the Discovery channel
you would learn about these things<w>

edm would be to slow


regards,
andy popky


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:27 EST 1996
Article: 43209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Die Filer Files
Date: 6 Dec 1996 15:28:02 GMT
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Look for them listed as parallel machine files



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:28 EST 1996
Article: 43210 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: refinishing old lathe
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:03:51 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
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Hi Dale...

Many larger, reputable grinding shops can grind the ways of a South bend. 
It all depends too on how much $$ you want to spend!

Kurt




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:00:30 EST 1996
Article: 43211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vetted postings--or am I screwing up?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:46:56 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Les Whitaker (hoofe@intecnet.net) wrote:
: Are the postings on this board vetted? .i.e. scanned by someone for
: inclusion/exclusion? Or am I messing up the procedure somehow? None of my
: posts in the last two weeks have been posted. howcum?
: Les Whitaker hoofe@intecnet.net

This newsgroup is NOT moderated.  Some of us wish it were!  The NNTP
protocol which propagates these messages across the world, site by site
is like a bucket brigade, passing messages from one to the next.
If any site goes down, has a bad network link, gets overloaded, etc.
messages can be lost.  Some sites allow only so much traffic/hour, any
excess it thrown away.  So, a LOT of messages are lost.  In the binaries
groups, up to 30% of the postings are discarded.  I don't know whether this
is due to the name of the group having 'binaries' in it, the size of those
posts, or some other aspect.  I don't think 30% of the posts here are lost,
but I am quite sure that more than a few are!  I scan this group something
like twice a day, and some of the threads really start in the middle, so
I know something is being lost.  On the other hand, NNTP can be very slow,
and it is not uncommon to see a reply to an earlier question show up, and 
then, 3-4 DAYS later, the original question appears!  There are also
'rogue cancellers', which are automated programs (or unauthorized persons)
who cancel messages at random, or with an intention of annoying someone.

Hope this at least explains some of how it works (and doesn't work).
					Jon



From sld@nikodyne.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:31 EST 1996
Article: 43212 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: sld@nikodyne.com (Steve Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 17:36:44 GMT
Organization: nikodyne technologies
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References: <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net> <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com> <586rtu$kai@news0-alterdial.uu.net> <32A7621E.61AD@ix.netcom.com>
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In article<32A7621E.61AD@ix.netcom.com>,ANDY POPKY<tool@ix.netcom.com> writes:
-> Steve Davis wrote:
->>In article<32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com>,ANDY POPKY<tool@ix.netcom.com>writes:
->> -> check the s/n
->> -> if you give me the s/n i can tell you the age
->> -> if it is in halfway decent shape
->> -> then BUY IT
->> 
->> what about a Meuser 18" (26 with gap) by 84" lathe?
-> 
->WHAT ABOUT IT??

... can you tell the age from s/n, if in decent shape what's it worth;
you know, that kind of thing...
-- 
  pgp fingerprint: 21 55 8E 51 43 E5 6E 2F  57 CB 77 12 F2 E4 78 34
investigate,impeach,imprison,inter;socialism destroys,defund the left
  "more laws... we can't control enough citizens without more laws"
                         -liberal/socialist/communist mantra


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:32 EST 1996
Article: 43213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 20:23:40 -0800
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alevy01@aol.com wrote:

>
>     When to use a two flute end mill, and when to use a four flute end
>mill ?

Two flute is used when cutting a slot or when plunge cutting
4 flute gives a better finish or faster cut due to the extra edges but
has problems in a slot/plunge situations (works but you got to watch
it) 

When cutting soft material you might be better off with 2 flutes as a
4 flute might clog up (smaller chip clearance spaces) 

Jens


From brmiller@aristotle.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:33 EST 1996
Article: 43214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brmiller@aristotle.net (Billy Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
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Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk> wrote:


|Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
|other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
|now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
|watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
|confused.

|-- 

|Cheers,
|Magnus

Confused?  I don't think so.  I enjoy quilting, knitting, and cooking
(But I HATE cleaning house).  I also hold a Black Belt and a Brown
Belt in two different Martial arts.  I'm a Nationally and
Internationally ranked Kickboxer.  I enjoy hunting and fishing and all
that other "male stuff".  As a 23 year old guy I do not consider
myself confused, just well rounded (at least thats what I keep telling
my wife ;-)

See Ya
Billy Miller, Quilting in Arkansas

|****  Magnus J Paterson           email  mjp@roe.ac.uk   
|****  Royal Observatory           ph     +44 (0)131 668 8247
|****  Edinburgh EH9 3HJ           fax    +44 (0)131 668 1130
|****  SCOTLAND                    web    http://www.roe.ac.uk/mjpwww/



-------------------------------------------
Sig?  Sorry, I don't smoke... <grin>
Billy Miller
brmiller@aristotle.net
Little Rock, Arkansas  USA



From glyford@us1.channel1.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:34 EST 1996
Article: 43215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT ARE YOU MAKING when you're not watching the Altavoz/Jens flame war?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 15:50:22 GMT
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In article <32a7ac53.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com says...
>Last time I saw one of these on TV old Art Afrons (one of
>the original Allison engined dragster guys from the 50s or
>was it 60s) was still at it with a twin jet powered rig.  I
>think he was injecting something the the engine exhausts to
>make fire, they sure shot a lot of flame.  Very spectacular.

Jets kinda tend to do that on their own anyway.  Some of them even
had WATER injectors right next to the fuel injectors (added mass to the
air flow through the engine and kept the final stage temps down).

Saw a fighter engine on a test stand, in full afterburner.  It gets
these neat cone shaped mach waves in the exhaust...  Were in a soundproof 
room, so got to enjoy it rather than feel it. :^)  Should have seen
the fuel meter go click-click-click....  several gallons per second.

All he'd really have to do is let them get a bit outta tune....
                                                     --Glenn




From vincent49@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:35 EST 1996
Article: 43216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vincent49@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: 6 Dec 1996 13:52:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>Anyone out there who has built the Quorn tool/cutter grinder,
 >please give your opinion.

Quorn,Quorn,Quorn ! I hear so much about it,  but how does one get to see
an image of one ? how has everyone else seen one ?  Am I the only one who
wonders "what does it look like ? " 

If anyone has built one , if they please post a JPEG or gif somewhere ,
and  notify the newsgroup , this curious cat would be happy.

PS I need a T/C grinder , it is not just idle curiosity


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:37 EST 1996
Article: 43217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 01:45:46 GMT
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Chris (chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca) wrote:
: Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
: rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
: in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
: There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
: around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

  I'd risk it (Fools rush in ...) unless the diodes are really expensive.
Most devices with current limitations fail by overheating, but each
diode in a bridge spends half the time cooling off. Heat sinking helps.
My guess is that the diodes you're talking about are the kind where one
terminal is a threaded stud, designed to be screwed into a heat sink.
Again because of the accumulative nature of the heat loading, I wouldn't
worry at all about transients, and I have a hard time imagining that
diodes that size would even see high frequencies.

  Still, this is all speculation on my part. Your mileage may vary.

Bruce


From regisg@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:38 EST 1996
Article: 43218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vetted postings--or am I screwing up?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 16:40:50 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <589iai$cqk@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <01bbe392$2502ee20$e81f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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To: hoofe@intecnet.net

This one got posted.  And there can't be anyone screening or they've just 
decided to pick on you 'cuz there is some pretty crappy commercials that 
roll through in between the good 'stuff'.

regis


"Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net> wrote:
>Are the postings on this board vetted? .i.e. scanned by someone for
>inclusion/exclusion? Or am I messing up the procedure somehow? None of my
>posts in the last two weeks have been posted. howcum?
>Les Whitaker hoofe@intecnet.net




From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 14:00:39 EST 1996
Article: 43219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:39:49 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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In article <329fd31e.882566@news.sprynet.com> ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) writes:

> It is also importantto keep a constant feed.  The best way is to USE the 
> power feed (if available).  I pound this into our employees, who seem to be 
> afraid touse power feed for cut off, but it really works better than trying 
> to hand feed.

I second the use of power feed for cut off, works great; takes some nerve.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 14:00:40 EST 1996
Article: 43220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shop-made Cutting Tool
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:30:28 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 22
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In article <E1MnCz.Gpw@cix.compulink.co.uk> chrish@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Christopher Heapy") writes:

>In article <npoersch-241196104252@as2a-p03.mts.net>, npoersch@mts.mb.ca 
>(Neil Poersch) wrote:

>> I need some advice from you experts out there. 
>> 
>> I want to fabricate a special cutting tool to cut a flat surface in the
>> shape of a ring.  Think of a hole saw as an example. The flat is about  .100
>> in. wide and the ring diameter is 1.500 in. The depth of cut will be 
>> about .150 in. I can not use an end mill because the center of the ring has 
>> to remain undisturbed hence the hollow hole saw as an example. 

> Another alternative is to mount the work on a faceplate in the lathe. There 
>are many options depending on your tooling.

Chris' idea of putting it on the lathe (faceplate) sounds perfect to me!

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From gene@ionet.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:42 EST 1996
Article: 43221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gene@ionet.net (E.M.Bortmes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Browning vs. Bluing
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:15:52 GMT
Organization: IONet
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <589kc8$apk@ionews.ionet.net>
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In article <584n5e$nle@cwis-20.wayne.edu>, mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu 
says...
>
>Alan K. Gideon (akgideon@mindspring.com) wrote:
>: I understand that a process called "browning" was used as a surface
>: protection for rifle barrels in the 19th century, like bluing is 
now. 
>: I've seen the result, but I'm not too sure about trying it just 
because
>: it is advertised as "historically accurate."  What time frame was it
>: used in?  Why is it no longer used; simply because bluing produces a
>: prettier finish?  Is there some hidden failure mode, like crevice
>: corrosion, to worry about?  Exploding gun barrels are not a fun 
thing to
>: think about.
>
>Traditional rust browning is done by repeatedly allowing a very thin 
>layer of rust to form in a humid cabinet and then carding it, i.e.,
>burnishing off the loose rust. Today's it's done with steel wool.
>
>Rust bluing adds another step: Boiling the part in water. This 
converts the 
>red iron oxide to black iron oxide.
>
>I think the black oxide is a tougher coating, but I have a 
rust-browned
>pistol I did 20 years ago that hasn't changed or developed any 
pitting.
>
>I don't know when bluing too over. I have an English shotgun from 1820 
>that was browned. I think the conversion was a gradual process over
>many years.
>
>--mike
>
Actually the modern black finishes are produced by oxidizing the iron 
at very specific conditions (using a powerful oxidizing agent) to 
produce a coating that is Fe3O4  The older coating produced an iron 
oxide that was Fe2O3.  I personally like the black better, IMHO it is 
also more wear resistant. As you know, if you heat a piece of clean 
iron you can see many oxide colors ranging from straw to black.



From jhale@specent.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:43 EST 1996
Article: 43222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jhale@specent.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: excessive arcing brushes/commutator
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 04:20:57 GMT
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On Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:24:58 GMT, em@gonzales.swb.de (Erich Mueller)
wrote:

>Hello,
>what are most probable causes for excessive arcing on the commutator 
>of an universal motor. Brushes seem long enough (not excessivelly worn
>yet) spring pressure looks ok. Rotor does not show visible damage of 
>windings. Commutator looks ok (no worn path of brushes or burnout of
>insulation between copper sections. 
>
>I speculate on shorted winding in rotor but can not prove / disprove 
>this assumption.
>
>Can you give me a hint?
>
>thanks
>erich
>
>
>-- 
>no Signature is a good Signature :-)
	I think that if you disassemble the motor you will find a ring
of solder inside the outer case.  Heat has melted the solder attaching
the armature windings to the commutator segments and it slings outward
and collects in the stator housing.  This can usually be fixed by
resoldering the wires.  The biggest problem you will have is getting
the wire and the slot clean enough to take solder due to the arcing
that has occured creating a surface on the copper that will not
readily tin.  Careful scraping and the use of a fairly agressive
solder flux usually works.  Try not to use acid core if you can avoid
it.
	Good luck-----jhale


From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:44 EST 1996
Article: 43223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 96 15:00:38 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <58c52i$1lhc@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>,
   ZACZ89A@prodigy.com (Mark Watzl) wrote:
>I'm in the market for a new band saw and am unsure exactly what I need.
>I plan to use it to cut 1/4" angle and round mild steel and occasionally 
>alum.
>I've talked with a slew of salesman at local stores but I don't have any 
>confidence in what they say. They all recomended a band saw that was 
>designed for wood but has the ability to cut metal. I only plan to use it 
>for metal. This is a hobby for me so I don't need an industrial quality 
>saw nor could I afford one. I'm hoping to spend less than $450. 
>Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>e-mail @ zacz89a@prodigy.com or post here.
>
>thank you
>
>Mark
>

If your only cutting small stuff like that, the harbor freight special
would work fine. I think the regular price is about $200, but at their
parking lot sales they have piles of them with tweaked legs for $50.


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:45 EST 1996
Article: 43224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:46:52 GMT
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Re the multibank tank engines -- they were Chrysler straight-sixes, five
mounted on a ring arrangement. Lots of detail information in an excellent
book, "Some Unusual Engines" by LJK Setright, pp 81-85. 12000 were built.
Made 470 hp at 2500 rpm, max torque 1070 lb-ft (!!!) at 1200 rpm.
Displacement  20.6 liters total. 

Book says it was used in M4 Sherman. So was Continental radial.

Pete


From bgroover@wvu.edu Tue Dec 17 14:00:47 EST 1996
Article: 43225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pratt and Whitney 10X20 Bench Lathe?
Message-ID: <01bbe379$fa469be0$1806b69d@STOUT.CAF.WVU.EDU>
From: "Benjamin J. Groover" <bgroover@wvu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:34:29 -0500
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I went to look at  a Pratt and Whitney bench lathe yesterday.  The lathe
will be auctioned off in the near future and I was wondering if anyone
knows anything about it and its value.   The name plate claims its a
Pratt and Whitney 10X20 bench lathe model M-1689 ser#448.   It's
powered by a 3 phase motor.(belt driven from under the table).   It has
a stand, 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, tool holder(no tools)  and 22 collets
>from  about 1/16 inch up.  On the lathe itself is a handle with four speeds
slow, fast(forward and reverse).  I don't know if the speeds where changed
by controlling the motor or gears inside?  Any opions :) on whether this
would make a good lathe for a beginner.  I was considering a sherline
as a learning tool and  a good way of getting started but this seems like
it could be much better.  It appears to be in excellant
condition.(untrained
eye)  After purchasing something like this would it be best to convert it
to single phase power or get a 3phase converter?

thanks for your help,
ben
bgroover@wvu.edu



From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:48 EST 1996
Article: 43226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
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Ken Knaell wrote:
> 
> Speaking of grinding, well we were once...
> 
> Does anyone know if the pulsating torque from a single phase
> motor could contribute to the "dishing" that I and at least
> one otherr person have had with their surface grinding.
> A three phase motor would be much better in this respect and
> I am considering buying one and re connecting my motor/rotary-
> phase-convertor back up to test this hypothesis.  If you have
> 1/2 horsepower coming out in 1 horsepower bursts at 50% duty
> cycle it seems it could make belts vibrate (mine do) and all
> other kinds of nasty things happen.  Seems like nothing is
> simple once you grow up.
> 
> Ken,
> Bethesda, MD

I don't think so Ken (I could be wrong). It seems like there are lots of
sources of vibration far easier to come across than anything from the
single phase motor. Do the belts vibrate at 60 Hz? if not, it's not the
motor.

I don't have any dishing trouble with my 1 HP, 10" or my 1/4 HP 6"
grinders. Both are single phase.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From michael@wupsych.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:00:49 EST 1996
Article: 43227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike Biondo <michael@wupsych.wustl.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Name That Chuck!  :-)
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 10:19:08 -0500
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I recently acquired a nice 6" 3-jaw chuck.  The only identifying marks
on the chuck is the following logo (please forgive my poor attempt at
ascii art!).  Is anyone familiar with this company.  I would like find
out about obtaining a set of outside jaws for it.

                     ...
                  .       .
                  |       |
                 o|       | o         All lines are solid
               o  |       |    o      Ends of the three legs are round	
             o    |      /|      o    The 'o' represent circle segments
            o     |    /  |       o
            o        /    |       o
            o      /      |    \  o
             o   /        |      \
               /          |        \
             /        /     \        \
           .        /  o   o  \       .
              . . /             \ . .
                      1 9 8 9

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...

Mike Biondo
St. Louis, Mo.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:51 EST 1996
Article: 43228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sandblaster - Pressure vs Siphon
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:53:29 GMT
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In article <32a7ad01.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>No, but I wouldn't leave it with out the nozzel turned off.
>Theres no telling what it eats to generate those horses,
>sure isn't any KW I've ever seen.  
>
>Fitch
>Wonder if it has a 129.7% efficient smoke bushing too?
>
>
>

Stop it you're scaring me now!

Peter



From gdgoen19@hudson.idt.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:52 EST 1996
Article: 43229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Goens <gdgoen19@hudson.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fair price for Atlas 12x36 lathe ??
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 14:07:58 -0500
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I'd like to solicit opinions as to a fair price for an Atlas 12x36 lathe.
The lathe in question is to be offered at auction later this month in
Cincinnati, OH.  The description of the lathe in the auction flyer reads
as follows:

" 12" x 36" atlas Model 3996 Cabinet Type Engine Lathe; s/n 106622,
  6" 3-jaw chuck, collets and draw bar, 16 spindle speeds 28-2072 RPM "

Considering the nature of the auction (bankruptcy sale) it is doubtful
that the machine can be inspected under power.  The machine was used
in an industrial setting by an electronic equipment manufacturer.  This
is the largest lathe that is listed (the others are a 10x24 South Bend
and a 9x18 Hardinge) for the auction.

Thanks

Glenn Goens -- gdgoen19@mail.idt.net





From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:54 EST 1996
Article: 43230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:06:09 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Speaking of 1mm gears (and reversing small lathes):

1) first, there's an article in one of the VP books on doing this for the
9 x 20 lathe.  Check the faq.  I think the author is E.T. Feller.  He
made his own gears, though.

2) My Browning catalog doesn't do metric.  Does Boston have metric
change gears, or if not, can someone recommend a source?  I'd like to do
a few odd threads, and a 25 tooth gear would come in handy.

Pete Brooks



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:56 EST 1996
Article: 43231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source for Graphite impregnated Teflon
Date: 7 Dec 1996 06:40:06 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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  A little while ago sombody asked for a source of teflon with graphite in
it. Well I finally found the address of the company that we got ours from.
They provided us with a small amount for a reasonable price.

 They are

Borger Oil-Chem
Industrial Plastics, Inc
P.O. Box 948
Borger, Tx 79008

  Hope this helps you if you happen to of not found any yet. And sorry for
taking so long.


   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From van_baker@hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:00:58 EST 1996
Article: 43232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Van Baker <van_baker@hp.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 11:58:51 -0700
Organization: HP
Lines: 27
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References: <580il5$1ba@hecate.umd.edu> <32a64a11.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32A74338.536E@hp.com> <58985t$7b3@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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Paul Amaranth wrote:
> 
> In article <32A74338.536E@hp.com> Van Baker <van_baker@hp.com> writes:
> >I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned Kitts (Kitts Industrial Tools, Detroit,
> >800-521-6579, in the FAQ).  While I've only ordered a couple of times (just getting
> >warmed up), service was good, came in a week (UPS), order complete.  They're
> >certainly no MSC, but for selected items beat the price significantly (DTI ~$78,
> >MSC same brand/model on sale for $99. for example).  Just another possibility.
> >
> 
> How much do the shipping and handling charges add to that?
> I stop in on them every once in a while.  They used to have a lot of
> interesting stuff at really good prices; but then they went upscale.

<snip>

  Unfortunately, NOTHING is local in northern Colorado <sob>.  Shipping was
in the $5 - $7 range.  I don't have a full Kitts catalog, just fliers which I got
by a free call.  Interestingly, it took a fax, 3 weeks wait, a phone call, another
week and a half wait before I got the MSC big book, then 3 weeks later I got ANOTHER
copy of the big book!  Even their system ain't perzakly perfect..

Cheers, Van

> Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
> Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
> paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services


From rabadie@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:00:59 EST 1996
Article: 43233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSC Pricing
Date: 2 Dec 1996 04:42:25 GMT
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Peter,

RE> It doesn't seem like a very moral approach to business to me. We price
products according to what they cost to make plus a reasonable profit
margin. I believe that is the way it should be done, I know it makes me
feel happier about my business.

Haven't you forgotten overhead and low turnover inventory? At current rates
composing that "wishbook" catalog must cost MSC hundreds of thousands.
Having a good deal of what is in the catalog actually available (as opposed
to other companies that backorder or substitute nearly everything even
though they have a much more limited selection) requires that money be tied
in low turnover inventory. MSC's prices simply reflect a well know business
principle wherein a broad inventory that includes many low turnover items
for the customer's convenience (heck, only source in many cases) requires
that the more common items cross subsidize the loss of interest or profit
on the tied capital.

> If you know MSC is high but don't care because someone else is paying
that supports MSC in maintaining artificially high prices that can be
dropped if only you ask

I am sure they would rather satisfy a customer by granting a discount when
requested. That is a positive thing, not a negative. If they simply dropped
the price on everything to match discounters then I can assure you their
broad selection would *have* to shrink or they would go out of business.

No I don't work for MSC but have benefited immensely from their actually
having in stock specialty cutters and other items when others don't carry
them or backorder them for months.

That said, I don't understand why you must question the "morality" of MSC's
pricing policies. Must you make MSC some kind of villain simply because you
do not care to trade with them? Is this also the case with Ah-Ha's
software?

Ray



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 14:01:00 EST 1996
Article: 43234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:35:01 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 29
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References: <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com><19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299400A.50CB@abrasha.com> <329EFE38.4F2E@ix.netcom.com> <57mvuj$3o6@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com> <329F3E78.4058@ix.netcom.com> <32a240a3.1406813@news.sprynet.com> <57s604$8vt@darla.visi.com> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204114138.11754J-100000@reliant> <586c6c$se9@darla.visi.com>
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apparently that is the key.  They charge you until you complain.
Anyway, the point is moot.  MSC gets me anything I ask about 
overnight!

John


On 5 Dec 1996, Peter Drumm wrote:

> In message <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204114138.11754J-100000@reliant> - "John
> R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:42:24 -0600 writes:
> :->
> :->I have STOPPED buying from J&L because the shipping is more than
> :->the tooling I buy from them.  I ALWAYS prepay.  Never got any
> :->"free shipping" from J&L.
> :->
> :->John
> 
> I was charged shipping once, something like 7 dollars and change, so I
> complained about it and got a refund. I don't know what you're doing
> different than I...except maybe the 70lb limit?
> 
> pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
> Using OS/2 Warp 4!
> Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
> All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!
> 
> 
> 


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:01 EST 1996
Article: 43235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: NAMES and the Internet
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 16:30:35 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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Any of you that were at NAMES (North AmericanModel Enigneer Show) last year 
may recall that we had a seminar session each day called Metalworking and the 
Internet.

I have been asked by the organizers to do it again, and hapily agreeded.

Now I have started thinking about how we could put the NAMES show 'on the net' 
I know some other events have made a 'live' event on the web, but I have never 
paid much attention to the details.

Any suggestions on how we could do some kind of web 'event' connected to NAMES?

At the very least we can have our meeting again this year, but can we do 
something that ties in the folks that cant come to Michigan?


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From rabadie@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:02 EST 1996
Article: 43236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: "Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mg Welding
Date: 2 Dec 1996 04:36:03 GMT
Organization: Technology Assistance Group
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <01bbe00a$150a1e20$cc0135cf@ray-abadie>
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John,

By all means wait! I hope someone here has the info but as I recall
magnesium burns readily and is a very, very NASTY fire. I remember seeing a
car (Porsche 914 I believe) that had been completely encased in foam after
an engine fire yet you could see the engine block glowing through the foam.


How about it guys? Can this be done safely?

Ray

jdc6@Lehigh.EDU wrote in article <57s7tb$27m2@ns5-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>...
> I have a need to TIG weld magnesium castings, specifically VW engine
cases,
> and have not found much on the subject in my references. Without knowing
the
> alloy which filler metal would work? Preheat or postheat necessary? Is it
> acceptable to weld Al plate to Mg castings? Which rod would be used in
this
> case?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Caffrey
>
****************************************************************************
***
> *  John Caffrey                         *      Protoform Formula Vee     
    *
> *  Engineering Technician               *      Rotus/Ford Super Seven    
    *
> *  Dept. of Chemical Engineering        *                                
    *
> *  Lehigh University, Bethlehem, PA     *                                
    *
>
****************************************************************************
***
> 
> 


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 14:01:04 EST 1996
Article: 43237 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 13:23:47 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <jesw-0612961323470001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <329a4f20.5279371@netnews.voicenet.com>  <3299b803.134590636@news.islandnet.com> <NEWTNews.849237483.6329.wgrob@dialin.phoenix.net> <329fd31e.882566@news.sprynet.com> <jesw-0412961257150001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <32a61d2e.2041792@news.sprynet.com> <32a5a3f8.885391@news.islandnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

> >>Just to add another cutoff tool data point, I've been getting good results
> >>on stainless with the Enco / Swiss type toolholder, the one with a 40
> >>position vertically splined column. They aren't worth the ~600 list price
> >>but my set cost $50 second hand. Apparently they are unwanted orphans.
> >
> >I've heard that that type is actually far superior to the Aloris type
> >and its clones.  Not sure why, in fact, I've never even looked at one
> >closely.
> 
> I've looked at them from afar ....longingly
> 
> One thing that drives me nuts with a standard Aloris type post is the
> fact that the base has to be re-aligned a lot.
> Let's say you want to cut threads - you set your compound to 28
> degrees but then you need to loosen the toolpost, re-align and (if you
> are picky) indicate it. This seems a great big waste of time to me. I
> would rather be able to set up the post once and forget about it ...
> then just move the holder over a few notches.
> 
> I guess since they are fixed notches getting an angle exact could be a
> problem. Also, if you want to make a tool holder, that kind of a
> holder would be very difficult to build.

The only advantage I've found is that it is easy to adjust the angle of
hand-ground HSS bits in forged toolholders to both turn and face. The base
still gets realigned a lot. I'll have to try moving the compound 27
degrees (3 notches) for threading. The BIG disadvantage is that
toolholders are about $100 and hard to find second hand. 

The toolholder geometry isn't too hard to duplicate. If the holder blank
is set up to rotate around what would be the axis of the post, using an
angle plate on a vertical rotary table, the grooves can be milled with a
single point vee tool in a boring bar.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From redrok@pclink.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:05 EST 1996
Article: 43238 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
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From: "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: SI stuff
Message-ID: <32AB1A14.9AA@pclink.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:42:12 -0800
References: <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net> <58d936$kje@parlor.hiwaay.net>
Organization: Red Rock Energy
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:43238 alt.energy.renewable:19797 sci.energy:59881

Mike Norton wrote:
> 
> In article <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net>, Kjones@interlynx.net says...
> >
> >
> >
> >>BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
> >>This is all ABACADABRA to me.
> >>Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
> >>
> >>arie veltman
> >
> >Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa
> >
> >In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation
> uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F
> >
> 
> I am a physics major who once designed high-tech transformers.  I was trained
> in MKS units (SI) in school.  However, when I went to buy transformer cores,
> they were in CGS units (centimeters, grams, seconds).  I learned the CGS units,
> and resolved to forevermore use the units used by the practitioners of a
> technology.  For steam in the English-speaking world, this is pounds, etc.
> 
> It's just easier.
> 
>   - Mike Norton

I completly agree with you Mike. It is futal to buck the system.

BTW I enjoy using MathCad for calculations. They have a completly
transparent way of converting units in any system. In fact you
can mix units if you wish.

Good Luck!

-- 
CUL8ER

Stupid is Forever
Ignorance can be Fixed

Duane C. Johnson
Ziggy
WA0VBE
Red Rock Energy
1825 Florence St.
White Bear Lake, MN, USA 55110-3364
(612)635-5065 w
(612)426-4766 h
redrok@pclink.com
dcj2@PO8.RV.unisys.com
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/3027/



From dobedave@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:06 EST 1996
Article: 43239 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dobedave@mindspring.com (Dave Corgill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB: small lathe and milling machine
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 21:10:53 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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"Stephen Kraiman" <dval@vsi.net> wrote:

>I am on the market for a small used lathe and milling machine.  If you've
>gotten tired of yours or have moved up to something bigger and want to get
>rid of it, let me know.


Don't know where you are located, but I have an old sears 6" metal
lathe
I bought new. If you come to my shop in Dallas Texas & unbolt it from
the table I bolted it to 30 years ago, only ran it for about 100 hours
you can take it home for $300.00. I have all the books & tooling, 3
jaw chuck, etc. The table is now used for two drill presses.


>Stephen Kraiman
>steve@dval.com
>dval@vsi.net


.
dobedave@mindspring.com & The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes)
Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/
Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/



From tcarter@csir.co.za Tue Dec 17 14:01:07 EST 1996
Article: 43240 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tcarter@csir.co.za (Tim Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: please identify welder sticks
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 07:30:09 Local
Organization: CSIR
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In article <E1n0E7.Iu@gonzales.swb.de> em@gonzales.swb.de (Erich Mueller) writes:
>From: em@gonzales.swb.de (Erich Mueller)
>Subject: please identify welder sticks
>Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:01:19 GMT

>Hello,
>i have inherited some welding sticks 2.4mm no packaging to read manufacturer
>instructions. 

>sandvik 19 12 3 NbR 
>(yellow spot on the end)

>what material are they what can be welded with them at what current range?

>erich


>-- 
>no Signature is a good Signature :-)

Contact you local Sandvik agent, they would appear to be Sandvik rods.

tim


From dval@vsi.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:08 EST 1996
Article: 43241 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Stephen Kraiman" <dval@vsi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB: small lathe and milling machine
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:44:07 GMT
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Distribution: world
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.142.107.60

I am on the market for a small used lathe and milling machine.  If you've
gotten tired of yours or have moved up to something bigger and want to get
rid of it, let me know.

Stephen Kraiman
steve@dval.com
dval@vsi.net



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:09 EST 1996
Article: 43242 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench Grinder Tool Rests
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:36:16 GMT
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Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


: >I've always admired that little holder in the South Bend publications,
: >and would love to find one. Failing that, I'd love to get a more
: >accurate reference to which "one of the Village publishing books"
: >describes how to make one...

: It must be in one of their magazines  - I went through all
: my books and it isn't in there.  There are some I don't

Hmm, I guess I missed the SB tool holder in the 'how to ruin a lathe'
book.  I'll dig out one of my copies (got the 1965 edition by accident,
thinking I was ordering the Sheldon book) and see if it rings any
bells.

Still, on tool grinder rests, Mason (I think) did one in the PIM 1 book
under _A rocking, swinging tool rest_.  It wants a side-cutting wheel,
but otherwise it would work with a standard grinder.  It's pretty high
on my to-do list.

BTW, between PIM's Metalworking 1 and 2 books, there is no shortage of
grinders, grinding fixtures, and tool and cutter grinders.  There's a
rather elegant version in, er, book 2 (I think) that takes the Phil
Duclos air spindle end mill grinding fixture and integrates it into a
full-bore T&C grinder.  Nice lathe toolbit fixturing, too.

Pete Brooks



From babcock@infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:10 EST 1996
Article: 43243 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: babcock@infi.net (Tom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 19:26:45 +1000
Organization: InfiNet
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In article <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) writes:
>From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
>Subject: Building a Steam Boiler
>Date: 5 Dec 1996 19:59:46 GMT

>Hi Everyone.

>Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>Yes, I know this is a project that should be approched with the greatest
>concern for safetly. Any good references would be appreciated.

>These are my thoughts.  I think that electric is the safest. No possible
>propane fumes to settle in my basement and get into the furnace.
>Also no flue tubes to install.

>Grainger has some "cartridge" heaters intended for heating dies of plastic 
>injection machines of some kind. Maximum sheath temp of 1600 deg.
>They come in sizes from 100-550 watts. 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameter by 4 
>inchs long.  I think using a 300 and a 550 would give enough combinations
>(300, 550, 850 watts) to heat up quickly and then reduce power for running.
>Is 850 big enough? The only reference I have is a Jenson catalog. They use
>450 watt heaters but their engines are smaller than mine. It would be easy
>to use a pair of 550 watt elements, but that limits the combinations to 550
>and 1100 unless some other form of power control is used like a Variac
>or a heavy duty light dimmer.

>Boiler: Vertical piece of 4 inch copper pipe. 4-5 inchs for water, 2 inchs
>(or more ?) for steam. The top would be a copper pipe cap. The boiler would
>have a pop off, sight glass and outlet. Water would be fed with a hand pump.

>Bottom: Copper stock 3/4 in thick. Partially turned to fit 1/2 inch inside
>4 inch copper pipe and silver soldered to it.  Two holes would be
>drilled to insert heating rods which would be silver soldered into the base.
>A heating rod would be a 5/8 copper rod reduced on one end to fit the hole
>in the base and silver soldered to the base. The larger diameter part of the
>rod would be inside the boiler. This way, even if the solder joint fails,
>the pressure cannot blow the rod out, because the hole is smaller than
>the rod. The heating rod would be drilled to the size of the heating
>element, which would be inserted into the rod. Heating element spec say
>the hole should be no more that 5 thou larger than the rod.

>One alternate that I have considered for the heating rods is to screw them
>into the bottom. I was thinking about using a 1/2 inch copper to iron
>pipe adapter. The heating rods would be soldered into the pipe adapter
>instead of directly into the bottom plate of the boiler. This would allow
>the heating rods to be removed if necessary. It might insulate the heating
>rods slightly from the boiler. I dont think this should be a problem.

>One person that I talked with suggested a seperator between the steam and
>water sections to keep the steam dryer. The seperator would be a round disk
>with a hole in the middle and tapered towards the hole so that the water 
>would drain back down. He also suggested a seperate heater for the steam
>section to dry the steam. This heater should not be powered up without
>steam pressure, or it will overheat. Any comments here? 

>What do you guys think?

>chuck sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com
>-- 
>--
>Chuck Sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com

Sounds like a lot of work.  Why not just get the boiler kit from PM research.
Tom


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:12 EST 1996
Article: 43244 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 05:14:01 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 65
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rhys@wam.umd.edu (Aubrey Philip Williams) wrote:

>I was curious about people's favorite places to order their tools. I
>have the following:

There is a Rutland tool store within 5 min walking distance
>from  where I work, and which I have to pass on my way home
each evening (its closed when I arrive at work, so only
single jepordy!).  I frequently stop in there, did today in
fact to pick up some TT321 insert bits.  I've never mail
ordered from them but appear to have bought enough to be on
their catalog a month plan.

They allow me to return stuff that doesn't fit, or if the
size is wrong (bandsaw blades once).  

They are very convenient, and since I can see the
merchandise before buying it, I have had no problems except
those I created through my own ignorance.  A bonus is that
they usually have some machinery sitting in the show room
that I can drool on before leaving.

Other than that I had a good experience with Warner Tool and
Supply in North Holleywood where I bought my Mill and Lathe.
(Happens to be run by a nephew of the Warner that heads up
Rutland I think.)  The mans name is Perry Warner.  He drove
me all over LA visiting machinery suppliers to look at
lathes and mills - gave me quite an education in the
differences between Chinese, Taiwanese, Japanese, and
Taiwanese with Japanese bearings and gears lathes and mills,
and the importers of same.  I am very happy with the
machines I picked out - I think he helped me make a better
choice than I would hav left to my own devices.  I had a
minor problem with the milling machine.   I called him in
the morning.  He had a part delivered UPS at my house the
next day.

He also sold me a master level for about $130.00 (.0005 in
10") that has been invaluable.  

I found him thorugh an advertisement in HSM.  That was
several years ago.  I believe he stopped advertising shortly
after that.  

I did buy a couple of small things by mail from Grizzley,
they were as advertised.  

I have found Borwnells to have a lot of unique things.
bought some cold blue from them amoung other things.

I have a Grainger catalog, but have to go through a
neighboor who has his own business to buy things from them -
a hassel.  But last month I got a pressure switch and relief
valve for my compressor through him for significantly less
than the same parts would have cost me through Sears.

MSC sounds good to me for things I can not easily find
locally.  Have to try them soon.

Fitch







From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:13 EST 1996
Article: 43245 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TAIG blank collet ?
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 20:36:22 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <felice.364.32A73246@pioneer.net>
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>I recently acquired a fair # of blank TAIG colletts from work.  We use the
>TAIG's for some special labratory tooling, and the machinist makes special
>collets for that purpuse.  He tried to use the blank collets which appeat
>to be leaded steel, but kept breaking slitting saws when he tried to split
>them.  The metal was really gummy and grabbed the blades.

>My question, now that I have ~20 blank collets, after boaring them, how do
>I split them?  I figure a jeweler's saw will do the trick, but wonder if
>anyone has any first hand experience with these collets.
I have used a jewelers saw and a hacksaw. Taig says to split them 3/8" down, 
which is almost to the end. As I said in my review of the Taig, I am not that 
satisfied with their collet system. How was the machinist slitting 
them, I assume he wasn't pinching them in a vise, so as the cut 
progressed the slit clamped down on the blade, but you never know. 
Rudy Kouhoupt's latest on collets has instructions for slitting them.


>Anyother advice on the TAIG would also be appreciated.  I've 
been>contemplating getting one for awhile, but now that I got a bunch 
of>collets, and a 3 jaw chuck, I figure why not?

Indeed! Get the basic TAIG, supply your own motor. If you can afford it, get 
the four jaw chuck, compound slide, a bunch of blank arbors. The tailstock is 
a necessity. Get a drill chuck off of a broken power drill from the flea 
market/yardsale for a buck. Make sure you have a dial indicator, etc.

>Thanks,

>Paul

>TeamHail@aol.com



From xray@pobox.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:15 EST 1996
Article: 43246 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Danknick <xray@pobox.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 11:31:59 -0800
Organization: Team Delta
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I just bought one of those cool cutoff tools with the insertable carbide
tips for my lathe. The arm that holds the carbide is 0.5" square and
about 5" long. So I tightened it into my tool post, installed an insert
and started to part a small piece of CRS. Squeal! More cutting fluid.
Squeal! Now the dogs in the neighborhood are barking. Not much cutting
happening at the part, either. Idea: reposition the tool arm closer into
the tool post and retry. Nice cut.

Question: what's going on here? Is my saddle loose on the ways? Short of
cutting nylon or aluminum I can't think of a softer material to cut.

I'd appreciate any comments or direction from more experienced
machinists reading this.

-- 
Dan Danknick


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:16 EST 1996
Article: 43247 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: 5 Dec 1996 23:29:38 GMT
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In message <585hac$cks@hecate.umd.edu> - rhys@wam.umd.edu (Aubrey
Philip Williams)Thu, 05 Dec 1996 04:02:20 GMT writes:
:->Could you give me their phone number? McMasters if anybody has it
:->also.
:->
:->Thanks,

McMaster-Carr 1-708-833-0300

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From gfritz4134@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:18 EST 1996
Article: 43248 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gfritz4134@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Removing Rust
Date: 2 Dec 1996 06:04:57 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.13)
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In article <19961201032400.WAA08780@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>That's cute, someone just posted a message on how to rust a coffee table
>base intentionally. Another person said "use vinegar and watch it rust
>before your eyes.
>
>Who'se right here guys???
>
>

Peter -- I skipped the rusting coffee table thread, so can't really
comment...

All I can say is I been doin it fer years...  I think it occurred to me
that it might be worth trying after noting that most commercial rust
removers are acid preparations (maybe after reading the phosporic acid
warning on the back of Naval Jelly), or maybe I picked it up from the
Whole Earth Catalog or the like.  Anyway, I've derusted lots of old
woodworking tools using a vinegar bath.

And Russ is right-- it seems that after parts come out of the vinegar they
want to  develop a fine surface rust almost immediately.  I typically
rinse parts in water and an SOS pad (my description of rinsing off with
water might sometimes be optomistic depending on how deep the rust is),
then dry and immediately go over with WD40 and steel wool.

Works a lot better than naval jelly for me...



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:19 EST 1996
Article: 43249 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tube bender question
Date: 4 Dec 1996 04:14:24 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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  The first question that I've got is do have or have access to a
hydraulic press. One made from a little bottle jack will work. If you do
have access to one and access to a welder I can try to describe an easy
way to make dies for it that can bend black pipe without kinking. 

  LWC

   Wayne Cook

  Quality is like buying oats, if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you
must pay a fair price.
However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                                     That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:21 EST 1996
Article: 43250 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: 4 Dec 1996 04:14:23 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <32A0D8A0.2F5D@intnet.net>, Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net>
writes:

>James P. Riser wrote:
>> 
>> > [In article <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> Bruce Roland
>> > [brucer@interport.net> wri
>> > [tes:
>> > [
>> > [[I'm interested in building a high quality version of the "$5 toy
>> > [[gyroscopes". (i.e precision bearings, long run times, maybe larger
>> > [[sizes, etc.)  I would be most appreciative if anyone has plans for
one
>> > [[or knows where I can find plans,
>> > [
>> 
>> Bruce;
>> There were several studies done (for electric auto energy conservation,
>> etc.) on the best shape for the flywheel.  It turned out that it was
NOT
>> the typical weight at the rim concept which seems so logical.  You
might
>> want to research this before going too far in your designing.
>> Jim
>> 
>> --
>> James P. Riser
>> Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser
>
>Thats very difficult for me to believe Jim.  Are you sure that the 
>more efficient shape that you mentioned wasn't due to an integraly
>built in generator(wires magnets and such)?
>Clint

  I think that what they found out was that they could make a light weight
flywheel stronger. You can then spin it faster and thus get more energy
per pound of weight. A very desirable property if one wants to make his
flywheel mobile. If a guy puts it in a vaccuum then the lighter flywheel
might very well store more energy. 
 
  LWC

   Wayne Cook

  Quality is like buying oats, if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you
must pay a fair price.
However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                                     That comes a little cheaper...


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:22 EST 1996
Article: 43251 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I'm BAAAACKKKKK!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 00:01:27 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 29
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Well after a mind numbing couple of days attempting to restore a full 
year's worth of information ( I'm a computer Savant, therefore I don't 
ever back up anything! - ) I seem to be back online. Albeit a little 
worse for wear, and not using any of my old familiar applications. 

As for the WISE GUYS who have had me INUNDATED with requests for 50% - 
60% and MORE off the list price of SHERLINE equipment ( You know who you 
are!) You'll all get yours! Especially from the guy who called me long 
distance from Singapore to make his order!
I am in the process of devising a suitably fiendish plot to get you 
scalawags and teach you not to prank an aging member of the metalworking 
community!. WAIT AND SEE!

Special thanks to Dave at MERIDIAN for posting for me.

In light of the fact that I was unable to answer many requests for 
information ( I had over 200 email messages when I returned - I'll get 
to every one of them, but not all at once! ) I am EXTENDING the SHERLINE 
SALE to JANUARY 5th. ALL SHERLINE equipment will be on sale for 15% off 
list. Credit Cards are welcome. ( Visa / Mastercard )

Now, all I can hope is that this message gets posted!

Thanks again

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From chance@charlotte.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:23 EST 1996
Article: 43252 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Charlie Chance <chance@charlotte.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: discount jewelry online
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 09:47:07 -0400
Organization: InfiNet
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http://www.karatpatch.com/
The internet source for discount gold and jewelry .  Karat Patch prices
are 20% to 40% below mall jewelry store prices . The Karat Patch has
been in business in Charlotte , NC , since 1984 . Our customers from
around the U.S. have come to trust and enjoy the Quality , Service , and
Value that we provide . We are here to serve you . Please feel free to
browse on line as long and as often as you like . For your convenience ,
online ordering is easy and secure with our secure server .If you are
planning to buy jewelry , compare our prices so you will not overpay .


From gilles@birdland.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:24 EST 1996
Article: 43253 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Gilles <gilles@birdland.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Etruded Bronze?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:11:41 -0800
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Folks,

I am trying to find someone who can extrude bronze. I've come to
realization that nobody(?) does so in the US.

Would anyone know where in the world (I'm serious) can I get bronze
extruded?

I'd gratly appreciate any input.
Please email to gilles@birdland.com as my provider sometimes runs out of
disk space ;-(

Thank you everybody.
Gil.
--
mailto:gilles@birdland.com


From hotanvil@voyageronline.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:25 EST 1996
Article: 43254 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "hotanvil" <hotanvil@voyageronline.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 04:29:03 GMT
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Whoops, just noticed you are not in New England area of USA, but in
Australia.  Sorry, the ABANA info won't help there, but I'll bet there is
some similar association.  You might call a library for a directory of
associations and ask about blacksmithing.  

Steve


From shootz@pipeline.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:27 EST 1996
Article: 43255 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shootz@pipeline.com (Richard R. Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rust and other finishes
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 17:25:12 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Philip Canaday <phil@pe.net> wrote:

>I am looking for a fast way to speed up rusting as a finish for steel
>art. Also would like to learn other ways to create unique finishes.
>Thank You
>Phil@pe.net

Check out Fine Woodworking Dec. 96

There's an article on antiquing hardware.

Basically using Muriatic acid & heat.

I havn't tried it and it states be very careful with the ACID.

You can also pick up a copy of Angiers' book on Blueing and Browning.
All type of chemical formulas for firearms finishing.

Rich 



From kbm@spiff.hr.att.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:28 EST 1996
Article: 43256 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Meier <kbm@spiff.hr.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:20:32 -0500
Organization: Operations Technology Center
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J.A.Harvey wrote:
> I still believe that you are much better off with a real milling
> machine than a vertical mill table for your lathe. I think that the
> setups are much simpler, and easier to perform, as well as the ability
> to work on a larger piece. I am sure that there are people who do
> excellent milling on their lathe and might argue with me, but my
> experience has been that milling in the lathe is generally a big pain
> in the ***.
> 
> Chuck is right too when he say that you are going to spend more on the
> accessories than the machine itself. This is true for ANY machine that
> you own ( except perhaps a shaper ), Lathes require live centers , half
> centers , knurling tools, dial indicators, etc. the mill is the biggest
> accessory hog thoug. You can eeasily spend 3x - 5x the cost of the
> machine in tooling.

I don't really know if I am doing something wrong, but I find that it
is almost too expensive to do much milling in my lathe.  I have a 9"
Logan and what I think is an Atlas milling attachment.  The milling
attachment has a tendency to move around on me which has a disturbing
tendency to whack off the teeth of end mills. I got some solid carbide
ones, high quality, and fortunately they didn't cost me much. They
break up much quicker than the HSS ones.  They don't seem to like the
abuse and vibration.

On the second point. I talked to my father-in-law about this.  He
supervises in a shop which uses 5-axis machining centers and multiple
spindle slant bed lathes, well into 6-figure machines. He tends to
agree even for these machines, that they end up spending around as much
for the tooling as for the machine itself, maybe not 3-5x but really
substantial anyway.

	Kevin Meier


From jack@vom.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:29 EST 1996
Article: 43257 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jack Erbes <jack@vom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: who sells rivets?
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 22:57:20 -0800
Organization: Zoom.Com Information Services, Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32A27DD0.4C9@vom.com>
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> vladman@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for steel,aluminum,copper rivets that can be hammered in
> > sizes 1/16 to 1/2 inch thick and in different lengths. Does anyone 
> > know of any specialty catalogs that would have them? Thanks.
> >
> > Vladimir

	Try looking for a company named Reed & Prince (or Price?).  I have seen
their rivets in many styles in small green boxes.  A good hardware
dealer should be able to get you an address or phone number.  Of course
then you will have to find a dealer who wants to be bothered with you
because there probably ain't a hardware store that stocks anything but
the most common.

-- 
Jack in Sonoma, California - USA



From gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca Tue Dec 17 14:01:30 EST 1996
Article: 43258 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca (Gloria Edith Keays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: 2 Dec 1996 07:44:48 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary
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Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
: psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

: >frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:


: >>QED
: >>
: >>Fitch


: >QED ?????

Quod erat demonstrandum

which was to be demonstrated

: I forget the exact latin quote, it appeared at the end of
: proofs in some of my college math classes like LInear
: Algebra and Advanced Calculus most of which I would find
: very confusing now except for the few parts I use
: frequently!

Seconded... except that even the parts I use seem confusing, half
the time (could be cause I'm taking a course in it right now... AARRGHHH!)

: Fitch

Rod (on his wife's account)


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Tue Dec 17 14:01:32 EST 1996
Article: 43259 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Chainsaw blade oil.
Date: 2 Dec 1996 07:15:14 GMT
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References: <19961129132700.IAA05805@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

I've used chain saw bar oil to good effect as way oil on my 10" Atlas for several years;
it's readily available in small containers ( a good thing, too; the 5 gallon
pails of steam cylinder oil and turbine oil take up enough space as it is...)
stays put, doesn't absorb moisture and seems to do a good job of lubrication.

Works for me...

- Bart


---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From rnichols@interaccess.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:33 EST 1996
Article: 43260 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Angle Grinders - cut off wheels
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 16:26:58 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <E1oz0z.K5G.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
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In article <19961130072000.CAA21420@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
 <lwc1220@aol.com> wrote:
:   The masonary wheels will be silicone carbide. Silicone carbide
:is a lot harder than aluminum oxide so it will stay sharp when grinding
:masonary.

"Silicone" carbide, eh.  Is that the stuff used in heavy-duty breast
implants?

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.


From chukb@delphi.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:34 EST 1996
Article: 43261 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chuck <chukb@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding tips?
Date: Sat, 7 DEC 96 01:56:30 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 1
Message-ID: <RxP2ynO.chukb@delphi.com>
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X-To: Ernie Leimkuhler <stagesmith@earthlink.net>

Try stick welding using a DC welder with an inline inductor/stabilizer.


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:35 EST 1996
Article: 43262 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:06:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>The rotary engines ran quite well and provided a lot of power for their
weight compared to other aircraft engines of the time.  They lost a lot
of their advantage because of their poor fuel and oil efficiency.

The basic problem with rotary aircraft engines (crankshaft bolted to
airframe, crankcase rotates) is the gyroscopic effect. Some pilots could
use this to advantage when turning, but only in one direction. Sopwith
Camel is a classic example. 

Pete 


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:01:36 EST 1996
Article: 43263 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: So I got this idea for a bumper (repost)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 15:57:54 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-0512961557540001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <32988D5A.146@ibm.net> <848963917.1773@dejanews.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <848963917.1773@dejanews.com>, philgolf@flash.net wrote:

> In article <32988D5A.146@ibm.net>,
> Tony and Christine Sain <insain@ibm.net> wrote:
> > 
> > Hey metal gurus!
> > 
SNIP
> > 2 questions. (Well, several)  What kind of stainless to use?  I know
> > some stainless is very rust resistant, but soft, while others are
> > harder, but more likely to rust.  The only types I have ever heard of
> > are 306, 316, and 410.  410 being the most magnetic and probably the
> > most likely to rust.  I'm thinking of using 1/4" plate at this point. 
> > Maybe thinner.  My big fear here is that 1/4" will just be to heavy. Is
> > there any place I can find weight of various thicknesses?  (like per sq.
> > in.)  
SNIP
> >
> 
>                                                Oscar Wilde
> 
> Type 304 Stainless will probably be the most cost effective.
> To calculate weight, use this formula: W x L x Thickness x .293
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


Units, units , units!!!!

In order for the above formula to work you must enter all the dimensions
in inches, and the density is correct as given in lbs/cu. in. The result
is an answer in pounds.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From ceyoung@gte.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:37 EST 1996
Article: 43264 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!206.124.68.65!news1.gte.net!usenet
From: Clyde Young <ceyoung@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: bit for drilling 1" holes in thin sheet?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 03:15:30 -0800
Organization: GTE Intelligent Network Services, GTE INS
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32A2BA52.2E97@gte.net>
References: <574qeo$h86@alpha.nafb.trw.com> <329ca194.0@katana.legend.co.uk><FYE0FEAfkCoyEwRz@abdab.demon.co.uk> <257@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
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David William Jenkins wrote:
> 
> 
> In article <FYE0FEAfkCoyEwRz@abdab.demon.co.uk>, Charles Lamont (Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk) writes:
> >
> >Altenatively, you could use a tool I cannot remember the name of used
> >for sheet aluminium electronics chassis.  It consists of a ring die of
> >nominal bore, with an end cover, a disc punch of nominal diameter and a
> >bolt of about 1/4" diameter through the lot.
> 	GreenLee also makes chasis hole punches as well.

C.Y.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:38 EST 1996
Article: 43265 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 6 Dec 1996 21:04:24 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 12
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References: <01bbe0b8$3fc4ffa0$5e263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <582hmp$hfp@newshost.netrix.com> <32A5A521.27B5@cc.com>
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Steven O. Smith (steve_smith@cc.com) wrote:

: All you folks having the same problem tells me I'm missing something,
: could somebody explain?

: All I do to cut left hand threads on my lathe is to reverse the lead
: screw. How come you need special parts?

You're not missing something; the lathe is.  No reverse for the lead screw.

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:39 EST 1996
Article: 43266 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: 4 Dec 1996 19:58:32 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Message-ID: <584l58$pm9@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32992E29.763B@abrasha.com> <Pine.OSF.3.95.961125184106.4808A-100000@saul3.u.washington.edu> <329D423E.A3E@abrasha.com> <Pine.OSF.3.95.961130153624.5799A-100000@saul6.u.washington.edu> <57sams$q1d@acme.sb.west.net>
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Edward Haas (steamer@west.net) wrote:
: Machinery's Handbook. I don't know which edition is current, but anything 
: beyond the 21st ed. is probably useful. 

I just saw the 25th edition at Barnes & Noble.  Since I have a 24th, I 
refrained from buying it.....

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:41 EST 1996
Article: 43267 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: 4 Dec 1996 20:12:36 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

: >QED ?????

: Latin acronym for "It goes without saying"

Nope.  You mean "Sine qua non".  I think.

Pete Brooks



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:42 EST 1996
Article: 43268 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 40 Tonne Power Press "Daisy" and dont know what to do ?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 20:46:14 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Friends:

I have in my UK workshop a 40 Tonne power press which has been idle for a
number of
years, the machine is in very good condition and would like to do
something with it.

Needless to say, I dont wish to give her away, but what can you build or
stamp to make
her pay her way. "Daisy" is now over 20 years old and likes to work, any
ideas ?

Alberto


From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:43 EST 1996
Article: 43269 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!snunews.snu.ac.kr!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!thorn.engr.sgi.com!glowell
From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 7 Dec 1996 01:00:25 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
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Message-ID: <58afj9$g9t@fido.asd.sgi.com>
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Hello -

I just acquired my first lathe, a 9" SB, last week.  One of the
first things that I'll need are tool holders and bits.  Any
recomendations as to what's needed to get started ?  The SB
has a latern style toolpost.  Any other basic tools that
on needs beyond a scale and calipers ?  Despite the subject
line, I'd prefer to avoid the expensive tools for the moment.

Thanks,
Gary Lowell
glowell@engr.sgi.com


From emporer@success.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:44 EST 1996
Article: 43270 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: emporer@success.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for spun tops
Date: 4 Dec 1996 21:04:11 GMT
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I need a source for metal bowls to use in making helmets and shield bosses.
I would like 12 gauge steel...but would take anything close!
Oddly, I have no idea where to get such things, other than having seen
what was being sold at Pensic years ago ( I last went to the wars in '87...)
and referred to as "spun tops."

Lance Berg
LaForge
http://www.joust.com/LaForge


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:46 EST 1996
Article: 43271 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!aanews.merit.net!news.voyager.net!news
From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 16:03:54 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32A5E726.C1D@voyager.net>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32A3F227.3687@ldl.net>, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes:

> 
> >Http://roasted.crow
> 
> Gotta ask. Roasted Crow???
> 
> Peter
> Licking lips and reaching for the Ketchup.

Wow!! you guys would just love it around here 'cause we got crows as big
as planes!!!

Brian Perry in Michigan



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:01:47 EST 1996
Article: 43272 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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References: <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gaz
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:05:36 GMT
Lines: 67


Years ago, Model Engineer had an article about building a toolpost 
grinder.  It used a surplus DC motor.  The articles started in July
1968, if any one is interested.  The authors were Duplex ( Ian Bradley, 
and a Dr. ???? ).  Sorry, I can't remember the name of the other half of
" Duplex ".


In a previous article, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) says:

>com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-00.ptw.com
>
>cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:
>
>
>>	The Amateur's lathe by L. H. sparey, Argus Books.
>>	The Amateur's workshop by Ian Bradley, Argus Books.
>>	Screwcutting In the Lathe, Martin Cleeve, Argus Books.
>
>>I just received my copies of these. I ordered them via TEE Publications;
>>they have a Compuserve account, and also a new web site:
>
>>	http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/
>>	
>>They drop ship to the US once a month, around the 15th. I ordered at the
>>beginning of November and they arrived yesterday. Overall cost for the
>>three books was #28, or about $45 by today's exchange rate.
>
>>Haven't had a chance to look at them thoroughly, but they seem to be a
>>nice addition ... once you get past the fairly outdated parts about
>>wiring a shop in the UK...
>
>The wiring is dated, but the use of small DC motors to power
>small tools like lathe carriage mounted drills or small
>carriage mounted grinders or milling cutters is not so far
>out of date.  The Surplus Center Catalog has a number of
>small DC motors that could be used for these purposes, and
>some relatively inexpensive small controllers to run them.  
>
>Some of the small DC motors have very high rpms so are
>better for grinders or relatively small cutters unless the
>gear ratios get pretty big.  Might not be to hard to make a
>thread grinder or tool post grinder using one.  Still, they
>also have some DC gear motors that aren't to expensive.
>
>If one had a source of inexpensive diamond laps, and could
>machine a suitable hum, a couple of those small DC motors
>might make a homebrew Carbide cutter grinder similar to the
>Glendo machine.  Or maybe one could use a higher powered one
>to make a cold saw.  
>
>The authors of those books have a lot of wisdom to share.  I
>think you have some real good reading ahead of you.  All the
>postings about books I got them off the shelf and have been
>working my way through them again.  It turns out I missed a
>lot the first time through.
>
>Fitch
>
>
>
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:01:48 EST 1996
Article: 43273 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: TAIG blank collet ?
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References: <19961205180600.NAA02869@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299140E.A64@websiteserv.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:24:56 GMT
Lines: 32


The usual way is to use a slitting saw.



In a previous article, teamhail@aol.com () says:

>I recently acquired a fair # of blank TAIG colletts from work.  We use the
>TAIG's for some special labratory tooling, and the machinist makes special
>collets for that purpuse.  He tried to use the blank collets which appeat
>to be leaded steel, but kept breaking slitting saws when he tried to split
>them.  The metal was really gummy and grabbed the blades.
>
>My question, now that I have ~20 blank collets, after boaring them, how do
>I split them?  I figure a jeweler's saw will do the trick, but wonder if
>anyone has any first hand experience with these collets.
>
>Anyother advice on the TAIG would also be appreciated.  I've been
>contemplating getting one for awhile, but now that I got a bunch of
>collets, and a 3 jaw chuck, I figure why not?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Paul
>
>TeamHail@aol.com
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:50 EST 1996
Article: 43274 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:59:31 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32A8DD93.33EB@cyberhighway.net>
References: <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu> <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <587ll4$qop@news-central.tiac.net> <01bbe386.6b93ed00$a5c1c2d0@pyroware.flash.net> <rich_klopp-0612961340120001@128.18.27.65>
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To: Rich Klopp <rich_klopp@qm.sri.com>

Rich Klopp wrote:
> ...... Laying out was a royal pain using a
> combination square and a scriber. Now I see what I was missing. I would be
> hard pressed to give up my surface plate and height gage. Same goes for
> the calipers--beats the hell out of a vernier.
> 
> If you're turning with a dead center in the tailstock, do yourself a favor
> and get a ball bearing live center. Throw out the flimsy rocker toolpost
> and get an Aloris style.
> 
> Buy a little stone to hone your lathe tools after grinding. It really does
> help. Get a magnifier and use it a lot, even if your eyes are young.
> 
> --
> Rich Klopp

Yay-Rich.....  AMEN.  The old folkss rode horses to town (weekly)too.
Cooked with a wood (or straw) cook stove, waited for the iceman
to cometh, etc., etc...  I love Frank Mcleans digital height gage
that uses my $60 digital caliper...

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From charles@yc.estec.esa.nl Tue Dec 17 14:01:51 EST 1996
Article: 43275 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: charles@yc.estec.esa.nl (Charles Stroom)
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Message-ID: <E1s97o.JK6@yc.estec.esa.nl>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:59:48 GMT
References: <19961125083900.DAA12108@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3299CBF9.8A6@primeline.com> <3299C507.4CB1@spiff.hr.att.com> <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com>
Organization: ESA/ESTEC/YC, Noordwijk, The Netherlands
Lines: 22

In article <329DAFC8.107C@ix.netcom.com>,
Roger Peterson  <rlpete@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>Really recommend that everyone consider an Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong
>gib-type tool post before going to the trouble of installing a
>rear-mounted system.  ALL of your lathe work will be much easier and a
>better quality finish.
>
>Roger...
>
>

Would somebody be so kind to point to somewhere where I can see
a picture/drawing of an "Aloris/Dorian/Armstrong gib-type tool
post".
Thanks,

-- 
Charles Stroom, ESTEC/YCV

charles@yc.estec.esa.nl
European Space Technology Centre, Noordwijk, the Netherlands


From rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:01:53 EST 1996
Article: 43276 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Richard Sewell")
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Message-ID: <E1wMG0.GAE@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204101305.11754E-100000@reliant>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:36:00 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol32
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>Buying cheap low quality tools puts you in the same condition as the
>Missouri farmer.

What *is* this obsession with expensive tools ? I've done good work with 
cheap tools, and bad work with expensive ones - sure, the expensive & 
well-made ones sometimes produce a much better result, but they are by no 
means inevitably indispensable. The trick is to know when you *need* to 
spend the cash. 

Of course, sometimes it's worth buying the good stuff for its own sake, 
but we should try to treat that as the recreational expense that it 
really is...


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:54 EST 1996
Article: 43277 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Message from Jim Harvey
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 02:58:29 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Message-ID: <585dok$vrd@nw101.infi.net>
References: <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu> <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <585bi0$e4k@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) wrote:

> Greetings,
>Jim Harvey called me today and asked me to post a message for him.
>It seems his system crashed big time and he won't be able to post the
>NG or answer Email for a while. TIA for your patience.

>Dave Ficken

Ohyeah?...is it true Jim, that Sherline's are now 50% off for
Christmas?  If not true, please post a follow-up   <G>



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:56 EST 1996
Article: 43278 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 19:55:52 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32A639B8.477C@cyberhighway.net>
References: <57vn47$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe0bf$29021bc0$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <32a51bde.1964092@news.sprynet.com> <582re9$3hc@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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To: Paul Amaranth <paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>

Paul Amaranth wrote:
> 
> Projects in Metal has a cute little cutter grinder article in the June '96
> issue.........
> And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
> is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
> that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
> grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.
> One of the illustrations shows it being used to sharpen the flutes on
> an end mill.

Try "Metalworking Two", page 178, by Glenn L Wilson.  Neat looking
machine.

> None of these require any castings, although some do require welding.
> --
> Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
> Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
> paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:57 EST 1996
Article: 43279 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Learn something new every project
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:12:21 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 78
Message-ID: <32A63D94.60A4@cyberhighway.net>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------73F7CD67E03
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

PyroWare wrote:
> ......
> I'd love to find and restore an old shaper, preferably one with gobs of
> cast iron that I can paint, big bronze bearings, and other heavy/old, but
> very solid construction aspects.....

Why not get one of Gingery's books (or all of them) from Lindsay and
make
a shaper?  If casting is inconvenient there is at least one source of
readymade castings.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------73F7CD67E03
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="OZARK PRECISION.txt"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="OZARK PRECISION.txt"

OZARK PRECISION COMPONENTS
P.O. BOX 1100
MOUNTAIN VIEW AR  72560
1-501-269-2770

Offering castings for Dave Gingery's projects.  

Lathe castings        $175
with ground flats     $250


Shaper castings       $175
with ground flats     $250

Mill castings         $175
with ground flats     $250

Drill Press castings  $175

Saw a Gingery type shaper in May-powered by a hit-n-miss engine-at a show in
Jerome AZ.  It sure made chips fly.

			

--------------73F7CD67E03
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------73F7CD67E03--



From awebster@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:01:58 EST 1996
Article: 43280 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: awebster@earthlink.net (alan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for small metal cutting band saw
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 18:24:59 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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In article <32A3E6D4.5E45@u.washington.edu>, "J. M. Reid"
<jmreid@u.washington.edu> wrote:


> 
> You can put one together (in any size you want) following the plans sold
> by Lindsay Publ.1 815 935 5353.
> He has a booklet for about $3.00.  It differs from wood saws in that the
> blade is twisted a few degrees by the blade guides so you can cut the
> occasional bar without ant restriction on blade depth.

That's a good idea.


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:01:59 EST 1996
Article: 43281 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing (and service)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 04:52:17 GMT
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Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:



>Caveat Emptor  (see Fitch - I took lating too.)

>-- 
>Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

I am truly whelmed.  And it didn't melt in the September AJ
heat.  Durable stuff that "lating".  

Fitch

PS I didn't actually take Latin, just a lot of math and some
Spanish in HS that I have forgotten most of.  But a number
of NG folks did, they refreshed my divot filled metal media
with what QED stood for, for which I thank them.




From robertac@calweb.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:00 EST 1996
Article: 43282 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: robertac@calweb.com (Robert)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 21:29:53 GMT
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NEKOEYES <NEKOEYES@aol.com> wrote:

>Beautiful Patchwork Quilts handmande with Aloha in Hawaii.

>From "Doll" size to Bed Size

>100% Cotton fabrics used

>Unique & Beautiful fabrics used

>E-Mail for details.

Can you send me a few?  I will try them as "carboy cozys"



From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:02 EST 1996
Article: 43283 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plasma cutter advice?
Date: 2 Dec 1996 12:11:41 GMT
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Message-ID: <57uh1t$bgg$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
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In <32A28C87.345A@earthlink.net>, Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net> writes:
>Mike wrote:
>> 
>> I've been lurkin for awhile here and am learning quite a bit.  I just
>> bought a TIG setup and have been looking for a plasma cutter.  Hoping to
>> find a good used one, but haven't found one yet.
>> 
>> Anyway, I want to cut SS mostly to gauge thickness 14, but would like
>> the ability to go to 1/4" mild steel.  I am thinking a 25 amp rig would
>> be adequate.  MSC has the Thermal Dynamics Pak Master 25 for $1115
>> (220V).  Everything I have been able to discern so far says this is a
>> good machine.  It is more than I really can afford, but I like good
>> tools and want the best without overkill for the job.
>> 
>> Any advice, suggestions, insight or leads to a source of a used cutter
>> would be much appreciated.
>> 
>> I probably shouldn't keep following this NG as I find myself wanting to
>> buy a lathe and mill (:  That Sherline sure sounds good.
>> 
>> Mike
>
I recently bought a new plasma cutter (HyperTherm) and was glad 
that I went for the bigger machine (cuts 3/4"). I have, in the past, purchased
a smaller plasma cutter assuming that it would meet my needs for the present
AND the future, but it didn't. I'm not saying that you should buy a machine as
big as the one I bought...but...go around to the welding shops (not suppliers) and
ask which brand and model they use. HyperTherm and Thermal Dynamics seem
to be the most popular and most will easily cut 1/2". A bigger (commercial)
machine will certainly cost more, but it will also retain its value much longer
than a cheap machine. Just remember....no bucks...no Buck Rodgers.

Randy
randyr@ibm.net


From alevy01@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:04 EST 1996
Article: 43284 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alevy01@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Basic milling question
Date: 7 Dec 1996 16:21:21 GMT
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     When to use a two flute end mill, and when to use a four flute end
mill ?

     Thanks in advance,

     A. Levy



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:05 EST 1996
Article: 43285 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 05:18:28 GMT
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billg63475@aol.com wrote:

>In article <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
>ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:

>>My frustration angst has dropped dramatically and I no
>>longer fear having to re-center a workpiece.

>So what do you use to accurately find the edge of the work piece?

>Bill

I use an edge finder.  They are inexpensive and very easy to
use.

Fitch



From r-pjones@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:07 EST 1996
Article: 43286 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger Jones <r-pjones@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 11:53:14 -0500
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Fred Bruce wrote:
> 
> There is a picture and brief description of the Quorn in the Power Model
> Supply catalog.


There is an article by Ron Chernich describing his efforts building a 
Quorn.  His address is Ron_Chernich@pacstar.com.au.

Roger


From brnzcaster@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:08 EST 1996
Article: 43287 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brnzcaster@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Etruded Bronze?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 22:19:51 GMT
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Several suppliers are listed in the Thomas Register ... learn how to use
this resource. Here are two companies in the USA.

http://www.thomasregister.com


Deeco/Siltin Industries, Inc.
Union, NJ 07083 USA
800-679-3769
FAX: 908-686-0936

Mac Metals Inc.
Kearny, NJ 07032 USA
Out Of State Call Toll Free: 800-631-9510
In NJ Call: 201-997-8001
FAX: 201-997-7457

--
Winston W. Harness
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster/
--



From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:10 EST 1996
Article: 43288 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: GRUDGELESS
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 17:35:26 -0500
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32A4B585.734D@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
> writes:
> 
> >from reputable individuals and companies all the time
> >is there something you would like buy PETER?
> >hmmm  didn't think so
> >
> >
> 
> Yow, you *really* carry a grudge Andy. <bg>
> 
> Peter






no grudge at all

its just a little dig
couldn't help myself<lg>

life without digs is boring
i can't sit around all day sipping tea


ap


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:12 EST 1996
Article: 43289 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Applying Lacquer to Polished Brass
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 22:47:38 GMT
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fsully@telerama.lm.com wrote:

>I am encountering an intermitent problem with "milking"
>when applying lacquer to polished brass.

>I have already taken humidity into account and have experimented
>with different methods and lacquers with no consistent result.

>Does anyone have a good technique to share that works consistently?


>thank you for your help


>Chris Sully

>fsully@telerama.lm.com

Chris,

I did this for years. The best lacquer I found was made by
Sherwin-Williams. Most important is that your brass is clean of
buffing compounds. I usually wiped down the brass with thinner before
lacquering. .  For a dip use a 50/50 lac to thinner ratio, for a spray
make it a 3/4 thinner to 1/4 lac. . Sherwin-Williams makes a great
metal lacquer. The lac stock number is T87-313 and thinner is
R7k22......great product, try it.

regards,

Jim Waggener



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:14 EST 1996
Article: 43290 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 01:16:24 GMT
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In article <585r44$f8e@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>, bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu (The
Hurdy Gurdy Man) writes:

>I'm sure the Austrians make a good machine, but still, this statement
>bothered me.  What I'm wondering is, have other people out there
>encountered lots of problems with American-made equipment?  Is my 
>general pride and trust in USA-made stuff just a naive mistake?
>

I think your pride and trust is well founded but as with all things one
must be selective as to what is deserving of that trust. The US can make
junky stuff equally as junky as the best in the world. It can also make
excellent quality stuff and often (but not always) at a competitive price.

I have been amazed at what I can do with the Sherline mill. I bought it
because I needed to make parts to meet a deadline. I had my doubts because
it was mostly made of aluminum. All doubts have now been dispelled. While
I have no experience with their lathe, I have no reason to believe it
would be any different.

To compare the Compact 5 with the Sherline is not exactly apples and
apples though. There is a degree of justification in price but probably
not to the extent that you are expected to pay for the Emco. Having said
that though, if the Sherline will do what you need now and into the short
but forseable future then it would be more than adequate.

You need only watch this NG for about three weeks and it becomes very
clear that *every-one* needs to move to a bigger or better 'thing'. My
suggestion is buy the best quality you can that will do the job. That, in
this case, IMHO would be the Sherline. Personal experience will show that
you will ***neeed*** a 12x36 in about three months time. Put the money you
saved with the Sherline into the bigger mouse-trap. Metalworking is a
curse, I am sure there is good cause for a MA (Metalworkers Annonymous)
association.

A question to ask the 'wise' machinery dealer is "do you sell Sherlines?"
If the answer comes back "no" then there in itself is a good reason he
would encourage you to buy something he does sell.

Peter



From wwebster@nortel.ca Tue Dec 17 14:02:16 EST 1996
Article: 43291 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: excessive arcing brushes/commutator
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 08:02:42 -0500
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In article <E1n49M.ww@gonzales.swb.de>, em@gonzales.swb.de (Erich Mueller)
wrote:

> Hello,
> what are most probable causes for excessive arcing on the commutator 
> of an universal motor.
(snip)
> I speculate on shorted winding in rotor but can not prove / disprove 
> this assumption.

How are the bearings (if there are any)?  If they are worn, the output
shaft will vibrate and this can cause the brushes to bounce, thus causing
arcing.

Has the load changed?  Excessive loading will also cause more than usual arcing.

Does the arcing go away (or reduce) when the motor has no load?

Short circuits on the rotor are not easy to detect with 'common' home test
gear.  You could take the motor to a service center (like Sears, or a car
garage that repairs starter motors/alternators) and ask for a growler
test.  This is used to find shorted windings.

Best of luck with the repair.

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:17 EST 1996
Article: 43292 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rich <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Myford Lathe
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 17:28:27 -0800
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Hello,

Anyone out there have feedback on the Myford Lathe (Latest model, with
respect to performance, ease of us and etc. Does that lathe have 
power crossfeed???

Thanks
Rich


From davidlindq@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:19 EST 1996
Article: 43293 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bench Grinder Tool Rests
Date: 7 Dec 1996 20:19:00 GMT
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In article <32A774F4.1AA1@eagle.wbm.ca>, Roy Robinson
<rrobinso@eagle.wbm.ca> writes:

>Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>> 
>>         There is an article in one of the Village publishing books
>>         on making such a holder.  Its a copy of the one sold by
>>         South Bend which I got from my dad.
>> 
>> I've always admired that little holder in the South Bend publications,
>> and would love to find one.

These may still be available new. The set is SBL's #CE2168. They are shown
on page 27 of my Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools catalogue #22 (rec'd April
1996). Their South Bend prices are "on request".

7 December 1996

David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:20 EST 1996
Article: 43294 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com><32A978B0.24BA@silcom.com>
Reply-To: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
From: djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins)
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 20:28:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Lines: 27

 
>Chuck Sherwood wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Everyone.
>> 
>> Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>> Yes, I know this is a project that should be approched with the greatest
>> concern for safetly. Any good references would be appreciated.
>> 

Don't be too worried about boiler making. Yes, you have to take
care. However, if you follow the precautions of hydraulic testing,
followed by a check that the chosen safety valve will actually
keep the pressure down, then all will be OK.

If you have a local model railway society near you then go and make
some friends - this sort of boiler is peanuts to them, and they
will have knowledgable people who will offer advice and check your
work.  I'm sure that they'll also take a great interest in your
work. 

If you don't have a local society then look at the literature for
model locomotive boiler making - testing is ALWAYS covered.



 

David Jenkins              -- aka --             Lathyrus Computers Ltd
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%






From jam@ olywa.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:21 EST 1996
Article: 43295 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jam@ olywa.net
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 02:48:39 GMT
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who cares?Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk> wrote:

>Brent Beal wrote:
>> 
>> NEKOEYES <NEKOEYES@aol.com> wrote:
>> 
>> >Beautiful Patchwork Quilts handmande with Aloha in Hawaii.
>> 
>> >From "Doll" size to Bed Size
>> 
>> >100% Cotton fabrics used
>> 
>> >Unique & Beautiful fabrics used
>> 
>> >E-Mail for details.
>> 
>> are they handcarved---hehehe

>Oddly enough, YES.  Well, not really, but a few visits ago, I bought
>my wife a trinket box made from koa (acacia) wood, which was carved
>with traditional Hawai`ian quilting patterns. Yeah, lookat me,
>I got LOTS of brownie points!

>Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
>other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
>now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
>watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
>confused.

>-- 

>Cheers,
>Magnus

>****  Magnus J Paterson           email  mjp@roe.ac.uk   
>****  Royal Observatory           ph     +44 (0)131 668 8247
>****  Edinburgh EH9 3HJ           fax    +44 (0)131 668 1130
>****  SCOTLAND                    web    http://www.roe.ac.uk/mjpwww/






From kbm@spiff.hr.att.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:23 EST 1996
Article: 43296 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Meier <kbm@spiff.hr.att.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinist squares-who sells good but cheap?.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 17:03:45 -0500
Organization: Operations Technology Center
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E.M.Bortmes wrote:
> 
> I need a good 12 inch machinist square for use in my woodworking
> projects.  IF accurate to 0.001 inch in the 12, that would be great.
> Will the ones made in India or China be that accurate, and at an
> inexpensive price.  Would Enco have such, or if not, who should I
> contact?  Appreciate help.

The general consensus is that Starret makes some of the finest tools
of this sort around. I recently had a reason to call Starret to find
out just how straight the scale on a combination square would be.
The answer is .001" per 12".  The squareness won't be any better than
that, probably just a little worse.

The Starret will probably set you back around $50. I would guess that
you don't call that inexpensive, but the India and China ones are not
likely to be even as good as the Starret.

For woodworking, I am not sure I see why you need that level of
accuracy, you might want to re-evaluate how accurate a square you
need.


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:24 EST 1996
Article: 43297 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Whitworth/BS Spanner Sizes
Date: 5 Dec 1996 00:23:50 GMT
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a.a.chabot@bham.ac.uk (Tony Chabot) wrote:
>I realise that the size of a Whitworth/BS spanner refers to the diameter of the 
>threaded part of the nut/bolt that ir fits, but does anybody know the 
>relationship between that figure and the size of the nut/bolt head ? The 
>across-flats and across-`diagonal' sizes do not fit nicely into Imperial 
>fractional measurements.
>
>Tony Chabot
>
Whitworth derived "his" thread by averaging the thread pitch and thread form from several/many 
 shops in England, perhaps he averaged the head size as well. Cheers Bob



From ldick@voicenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:25 EST 1996
Article: 43298 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 14:06:51 GMT
Organization: Overbrook Forge
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <ldick-0812960915310001@philly132.voicenet.com>
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In article <32abbf18.269970930@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:

> ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson) wrote:
> 
> >Using carbide for parting on a conventional engine lathe is not a good idea.
> >Even with a rigid, close to the chuck set up, You will not be able to 
> >run sufficient surface speed (usually 300sfm or higher) to satisfy carbide
> >tooling's
> >cutting requirement. This is especially true as the od reduces. NC machines
> >part with carbide by using constant surface speed.
> 
> Yup, I can second that opinion based on trying to face workpieces with
> carbide.
> It's most annoying when you get a mirror like finish and at about one
> inch in diameter you get tearing of the metal (HRS). It doesn't matter
> what speed you go at ... start position of the tears will change but
> it will always be there.
> Having said that,carbide should still work for cutoff  (not tried it)
> except for the poor surface finish at the end ... and I get that with
> HSS anyway.
> 
> Jens 


Oh yes, carbide can be used on an engine lathe for parting. You just have
to keep in mind the cutting surface speed. I have even stopped a cut,
increased the rpm and continued the parting cut. ( with feed and coolant,
of course)
I have found a reluctance on the part of some machinists to run at high
surface speeds. Carbide is a great cutting tool material. You must keep it
happy with high surface speeds and constant temperature.
I would suggest that for the home shop hobbyist, carbide tooling 
creates more problems than it solves. HSS cutting tools and a bench
grinder to form them provides the machinist much versatility to
manufacture specialized parts.
Grinding HSS tool bits for lathe /shaper work however, has become lost skill.
I could go on forever about this. : )


From bryanwh@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:26 EST 1996
Article: 43299 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Bryan A. Whitfield" <bryanwh@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Objective review of the Grizzly G4000 9" x 19" Lathe
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 10:02:22 -0500
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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I am considering the purchase of a metal lathe to build scale size 
stationary steam engines.  I have a very limited budget but want a fully 
featured machine with adequate swing.

I have reviewed the last thread on the G4000 by the news group and found 
little help because the discussion turned personal and caustic so 
quickly. 

If you have personal experience with this lathe or the supplier and 
would like to share it, please respond. Lets keep personal biases not 
based on actual experience with the G4000 or Grizzly out of the 
discussion if possible.  

Thanks,

Bryan Whitfield
Royal Oak,


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:27 EST 1996
Article: 43300 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tapers with compound ?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 14:59:58 GMT
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In message <32A92040.434F@mail.fgi.net> - Walt Black
<wblack@mail.fgi.net>Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:44:00 -0800 writes:
:->
:->I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound. 
:->Do you bring the carriage back to a stop, then advance the compound into
:->the work at the proper angle then cut with the carriage advance,
:->repeating until the taper is cut?  Obviously you cnat just feed the
:->compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.  I have
:->the South Bend Book on using a lathe and it doesn't explain this very
:->well. As a new amateur machinist I would appreciate a somewhat detailed
:->explanation please.

Once the compound is set to the right angle, back it off so there's
enough travel to cut the whole taper. Set the carriage so your tool is
where the cut is to start (usually the small end) and lock it. Then
feed in with the cross-slide, and take a cut by using the compound. At
the end of the cut, back up the compound to the starting position,
feed in again with the cross-slide, take another cut. Repeat this
until your taper is the size needed.

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:28 EST 1996
Article: 43301 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 16:07:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <58ep4v$aq2@dfw-ixnews9.ix.netcom.com>
References: <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net> <32aa0c70.6423379@news.demon.co.uk>
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In <32aa0c70.6423379@news.demon.co.uk> dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
(Andy Dingley) writes: 
>
>The moving finger of wdennis@interport.net (Ward Dennis) having
>written:
>
>>Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
>>metal surface - specifically nikle silver. 

>Nickel silver doesn't contain any nickel, but you may be able to get a

    I think you ment to say that nickel silver doesn't contain any     
 SILVER. Nickel silver is basically a brass or a bronze with a small
 percent of nickle...roughly 10 percent....added. As you say, it would 
 be a good base for electroplated silver added. 
                                                        Roger
                                                    

                                        


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:30 EST 1996
Article: 43302 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 16:25:02 GMT
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Stan:

Perhaps I am missing something very vital here,
but hwat is it you are actually saying ?

Alberto


From james.askew@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:31 EST 1996
Article: 43303 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:53:07 -0800
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Jens wrote:
> 
> tony <tonyd@spec.net> wrote:
> 
> >Gee, an incapable taiwan special? How could that be?
> >The way some guys rave about their Orient express bargins. You shouldn't have this
> >problem. Molded parts? Oh, I guess that idler gear to reverse
> >the lead screw was an option the dealer/importer/freight fowarder didn't tell you about.
> >did tell you about.
> >
> >Somehow I've never had this problem on a S/Bend or Logan.
> ><Sarcasm mode ended>
> >Why not try running the spindle in reverse and threading with the tool upside down?
> >Does the lathe have the reverse option?
> 
> Here we go again with the thread on imports .....
> groan .....
> 
> Jens

That will not work!!  I will make right hand threads.  The lead screw
must be reversed with respect to the spindle.

Jim


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:32 EST 1996
Article: 43304 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961207162100.LAA16938@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
alevy01@aol.com writes:

>     When to use a two flute end mill, and when to use a four flute end
>mill ?
>
>

Two flute cutters are for roughing out. They have more chip clearance, can
be run at a faster speed but leave a lumpy finish.

Four flute are for a better finish, usually a slower spindle speed and
feed. More cutting edges per rev means a better finish.

Unless you are really into production times for machining, I would only
use four flute as they are a better universal approach than two flute.

Two flute in smaller sizes (3/8 and less) are weaker as they cut a lot of
material out to make the cutter. It becomes a moot point when roughing
with them as you have to slow up the feed anyway.

FWIW, I have almost exclusively four flute cutters. I mill at least 4
hours of every day.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:33 EST 1996
Article: 43305 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tapers with compound ?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32A92040.434F@mail.fgi.net>, Walt Black <wblack@mail.fgi.net>
writes:

>I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound. 
>Do you bring the carriage back to a stop, then advance the compound into
>the work at the proper angle then cut with the carriage advance,
>repeating until the taper is cut?  Obviously you cnat just feed the
>compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.  I have
>the South Bend Book on using a lathe and it doesn't explain this very
>well. As a new amateur machinist I would appreciate a somewhat detailed
>explanation please.
>
>

You do in fact feed the compound into the work. Here's the sequence.

Set the compound to the angle you want to cut.

Position the tool to cut as though you were going to do conventional
parallel cutting, commonly referred to as "turning" as apposed to "facing"
which is done with the cross-slide.

Wind the compound all the way back towards the tailstock, then advance it
forwards, towards the chuck enough to take up any backlash.

Move the carriage and the cross-slide to position the tool at the edge of
the work.

Lock the saddle movement with the clamping screw.

Advance the cross-slide in enough for a normal depth of cut.

Now, using the compound *only* advance it until it runs out of material to
cut.

Rewind the compound and advance the cross-slide in for another cut.

Repeat the about two operations and you will have a taper.


Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:35 EST 1996
Article: 43306 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 31
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In article <58c52i$1lhc@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, ZACZ89A@prodigy.com
(Mark Watzl) writes:

>I've talked with a slew of salesman at local stores but I don't have any 
>confidence in what they say. They all recomended a band saw that was 
>designed for wood but has the ability to cut metal. I only plan to use it

>for metal. This is a hobby for me so I don't need an industrial quality 
>saw nor could I afford one. I'm hoping to spend less than $450. 
>Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>

<< for metal. This is a hobby for me so I don't need an industrial quality

saw nor could I afford one. I'm hoping to spend less than $450. 
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 >>
The 4-1/2 x 6 advertised by Enco, Grizzly, Harbour Freight and many others
for around $200 is more than adequate. I have found this little saw to be
the best single item I have ever bought. I used to dread hacksawing lumps
of steel before turning or milling them. Now I just clamp it in the saw
and walk away. Go back when I hear it go "clump" and the saw turns off.

These saws can be tipped up for vertical use too which is excellent for
cutting plate and sheet.

Peter
Who treats everyone the same! ;)> Providing I snuck through your Killfile
Mark.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:36 EST 1996
Article: 43307 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32a96d4e.26478034@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>I just wanted to make everyone aware of a used machinery dealer with
>whom I have had very good experiences.
>
>Andy Popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com> has supplied me with a 24" Master
>Vernier Caliper, and now an Aloris AXA Tool Post Set.  He has provided
>tools in EXCELLENT condition, and at very good prices.  I can now
>wholeheartedly endorse him to anyone who is looking for tools.
>
>

Hey Scott, shOuldN't thIs be In 

alt.crafts.metalworking.sycophants

As to Andy and Caps. I suspect he types with two fingers, holding the Caps
key would effectively halve his speed. Come to think of it, not a bad
idea, that means we would only get half as many posts from him. Keep the
pressure on him to use the proper caps for writing. ;)>


Peter
Who can unequivocally endorse Dave Ficken as a dealer to trust. Hands up
all those MDNA dealers???



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:37 EST 1996
Article: 43308 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32A9C472.15F@memphisonline.com>, randalldaniels
<rwdaniel@memphisonline.com> writes:

>I agree with the beer theory, besides, drinking beer and doing brakes
>compliment each other well.
>
>

Almost correct!

Drinking beer and doing *anything* complements each other.

Peter
Still importing decent beer to the colonies.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:38 EST 1996
Article: 43309 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:25 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58bja3$beh@shellx.best.com>, stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
writes:

>>Think of the unique design of the "Harley Davidson" no matter how
>>much our Japanese friends doctor with their Honda, no motor bike
>>will ever feel like "Harley Davidson, unless they copy the original
>>engineering design nut by nut and bolt by bolt. 
>
"no motor bike will ever feel like "Harley Davidson"
>

That is indeed a blessing. If you know anything about really *riding* a
motorbike, your first (18th??) choice would definitely not be a Harley.
Ask me about my Mike Hailwood replica, 1000cc Ducati. Sweet bliss. Fast,
smooth, more grunt than an angry bear and handling that can make a grown
man cry with joy, able to stop on a dime and give 9-cents change! The
sound from the Silencios? *Music*

Peter
Still adhering to the rule....
 "There are old motor bike riders,
 "There are bold motor bike riders,
 "But, there are no old and bold motor bike riders!


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:39 EST 1996
Article: 43310 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:42 GMT
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In article <32A9CDF2.58D0@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>you need to get with the times<w>
>this is a job Laser CNC
>
>maybe if you watched the Discovery channel
>you would learn about these things<w>
>
>edm would be to slow
>
>

Perhaps you are right Andy.   But, Laser and I speak from practical
experience that has cost a bunch of money to learn, leaves a bad burr and
you have to hand deburr. The Laser melts the stuff away whereas EDM eats
it.

Horses for courses, mate. I use Laser cutting for some stuff but EDM for
others. The EDM stuff goes straight to the anodizers. Sure it is slow but
my EDM'er sets it up and lets it run over the weekend. Comes in Monday
morning and I have 300 parts.

You seem to spend too much time watching TV. You need to get out into the
real world and see how things are done, not just the theory. <g>

Peter
Still with no time to watch TV, thereby making his own discoveries.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:40 EST 1996
Article: 43311 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Patent number
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32a99dd5.1703599@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) writes:

>I love this semi useless technology and have kicked myself ever since
>for not buying the thing.  If anyone out there has seen one or knows
>where one is, I would love to get the patent number off of it and see
>if I can reproduce it in a non-floor standing model.
>
>

Shouldn't be too hard to design. Obviously it operates on the difference
in weight of the book. A simple lever mechanism very similar to a set of
old balance beam scales would work. The type that has the stuff on one
side and a pile of wights on the other and a needle that shows zero when
one side equals the other.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:41 EST 1996
Article: 43312 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58bm20$d0t@news4.snfc21.pacbell.net>,
reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) writes:

>With Mr. Wilkins' configuration a broken air line or other rapid leak
>would not cause the motor to burn up.  Motor current rises as the
>pressure rises, so a fast leak will drop the pressure and keep the
>motor from burning up.
>

You are most likely right, hadn't thought about it in that light, thanks.

>
>BTW almost all compressor motors are rated at 1.15 service factor
>which indicates they can all run continously at rated HP and withstand
>fluctuations in input voltage and momentary overload (like TDC
>condition of the pump).  
>


I assumed the reverse to this. When a motor is advertised as "compressor
duty" I thought it meant intermittent and therefore not a good candidate
for continuous running. That's why I mentioned the C-H as being rated
specifically for continuous. I thought this was a bit unique for
compressors.

Are you sure all "compressor duty" motors mean 1.15 duty factor??

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:42 EST 1996
Article: 43313 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:10:33 GMT
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In article <32ad699a.2444388@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>I vote for zipping them, saves a bunch on connect time.  Even with
>unlimited connect time from the ISP, some of us still pay for the
>phone call.  Plus, I've got better things to do than sit and watch a
>download in progress.  If they are zipped, we should also provide an
>unzipping tool on the site for the various platforms.
>
>

Not sure but I suspect JPEG would compress equal or better than ZIP. That
way they are not platform specific, are they?

Peter



From gemmetspin@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:43 EST 1996
Article: 43314 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gemmetspin@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for spun tops
Date: 8 Dec 1996 17:29:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 6
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References: <584p0b$1l6@lily.redrose.net>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

If you can't find a supplier for off the shelf items contace a local metal
spinner, they will be able to make just about anything you're interested
in.

Alan Hall



From gedwards@onramp.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:44 EST 1996
Article: 43315 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 10:57:38 -0600
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32AAF382.4020@onramp.net>
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Dennis A. Armstrong wrote:
> 
> These were very popular in the 1950's before the mill-drills started
> showing up on the market.  I can recall nearly every issue of Popular
> Mechanics and Popular Science having advertisements for them.. I don't know
> where they all went, because they rarely show up on the market now.  The
> last one I saw for sale at a car show was $450, and was nice and clean.
> You didn't say what this one was priced at, but if in real nice condition,
> it could be worth up to $600
> --
> Dennis A. Armstrong
> armstdaa@3-cities.com
> 
> plalbrecht@aol.com wrote in article
> <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> > What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
> > locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.
> >
> > Pete
> >
I paid $500 for a 7inch Atlas a few months ago....top mechanical
condition with vise, motor, etc.  Have seen them advertized from $400 to
$600 but never got to them in time to see them.  They are getting harder
and harder to find.

George


From baizall@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:45 EST 1996
Article: 43316 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: baizall@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 09:51:19 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

Dear SS,
Excuse me, but I believe that the bible said something about "water to wine".
We make beer.  
You are clearly in the wrong newsgroup. 
Try alt.missionaries.to.lazy.to.walk.around.the.neighborhood.and.
ring.doorbells.com.

Either that or give us the PH and the mineral content of your particular brand 
of holy water.

thanks,
baiz


From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:47 EST 1996
Article: 43317 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!LOCALNAME
From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 96 14:54:34 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <58ev82$aid@herald.concentric.net>
References: <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com> <581cfo$ck3@bluto.accesscomm.net> <32aa0b43.6123180@news.demon.co.uk>
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In article <32aa0b43.6123180@news.demon.co.uk>,
   dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) wrote:
>The moving finger of geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson) having
>written:
>
>>My choice for a flashlight housing would be 6061.
>
>OK, I admit it - I've been out-geeked. I _hate_ it when people are
>talking about something and I finally have to admit that it's
>completely over my head.
>
>Just what the hell are all the metal alloy numbers, who defines them,
>and what book do I need to put on the bookshelf so that I can
>understand what on earth is going on here ?  What's the best guidebook
>for alloys that I'm likely to buy from either my metal stockist or my
>favourite scrappie, and that I'm likely to have a use for ?
>
>

I've got a little handbook which explains a lot of this, not in great
detail, but enough to give you an idea of what alloy and temper designations
mean. It's Light Alloys by I J Polmear (published by ASM) 

You can also find all this information in the Marks handbook, which should
be considered required reading for anyone doing anything.

JD


From david@psnw.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:48 EST 1996
Article: 43318 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Eiman <david@psnw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Levin Radius Lathe F/S or Trade
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 09:51:53 +0000
Organization: ProtoSource Network
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32AA8FB9.7001@psnw.com>
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In offering my '70s vintage Levin Speed Lathe equipped with Radius 
Turning Attachment, it has come to my attention that many of you don't 
know what this animal is.  This is a good opportunity to refer you to 
Levin's online catalog.  I think this is a work of art that can be 
enjoyed even if these critters are out of reach new. Take a look at the 
modern version of this machine:  http://www.lainet.com/levin/page11.htm

I am looking for a trade of watchmakers lathes, instrument makers 
lathes, tooling and accessories, current or antique.  I am a collector 
of micro machines and tooling.  I also save parts and pieces in hopes of 
one day finding mates.  I am most interested in these micro sized items 
by Bergeon, Boley, Clement, Derbyshire, Favorite, Hopkins, Levin, 
Moseley & Rivett. 

David Eiman
Fresno, CA


From sgregg@gte.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:49 EST 1996
Article: 43319 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Stephen Gregg <sgregg@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: words for Kerosene/ Paraffin
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 10:19:29 -0800
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Glenn S. Lyford wrote:
> 
> In article <329352F7.6A0F@hotmail.com>, nojunkmail@hotmail.com says...
> >
> >G-cramps - sounds like a food related illness, but richard says think
> >metal working my guess is that it has to do with some kind of crimped
> >hose fitting? Am I right? Do I get a prize? Do I get to go to the next
> >round?
> >
> US == clamp  <==>  UK == cramp,
> so my guess is a G-cramp is a C-clamp (with the screw making the
> straight vertical line of the capital letter)....
>                                               --Glenn


And I thought "G-cramps" were what you got after writing 800 lines of 
G-Code....


From calldon@airmail.net Tue Dec 17 14:02:50 EST 1996
Article: 43320 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!206.66.12.35!news-in.iadfw.net!usenet
From: calldon@airmail.net (Don Reasons)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 18:44:05 GMT
Organization: INTERNET AMERICA
Lines: 43
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Jarrod Smith <jbsmith@mail.microserve.net> wrote:

>I spoke to God and he said to leave us alone!!!!

>Saved Soul wrote:
>> 
>> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
I was invited to attend and play keyboards at a new church about three
years ago.  After about six months, the pastor wanted to have a visit
with me in his office.  He was really struggling with finding a person
to be the music leader for the church.  

Atour visit, he talked for a while, asked me some questions then told
me something which was really a surprise.   The pastor said he knew my
heart and he knew my spirit and I was "God's man" to be his new music
and worship leader.  He said he wanted me to start immediately and he
would take care of me finantially.  He said he believed in me and I
was the one!

So, I told him I loved God and I told him I was gay.

He then said we should "part as friends" whatever THAT means.  I have
written several letters to him over the past three years but, I
haven't heard a word from my "friend" who said I was "God's man" for
the job.

And they still have virtually no music program.  Too bad for them!



Don Reasons
calldon@airmail.net

Stay tuned for information about the opening of...

-------------->  Don World  <-----------------
	    
     (coming soon to the World Wide Web!)



From writt@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:52 EST 1996
Article: 43321 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: writt@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I'm BAAAACKKKKK!
Date: 8 Dec 1996 19:12:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <19961208191200.OAA17528@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32AA4BA7.B57@hre.com>
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <32AA4BA7.B57@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:

>Now, all I can hope is that this message gets posted!
>
>Thanks again
>
>

It did, and welcome back.

Bill Rittner


From rnichols@interaccess.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:53 EST 1996
Article: 43322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!198.80.1.4!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I'm BAAAACKKKKK!
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 16:41:20 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <E23t0y.6yz.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
References: <32AA4BA7.B57@hre.com> <32AA6437.4C44@bellsouth.net>
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In article <32AA6437.4C44@bellsouth.net>,
Brian & Angie Vaughn  <bvaughn@bellsouth.net> wrote:
:
:Whew!  I see "I'm Baaaaackkkkk!" and for the split second before I
:noticed who it was I thought "Oh #@$%, not that Atvz guy again!  I sure
:am glad it is just you, Jim.

I thought exactly the same thing.  Whew!

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:54 EST 1996
Article: 43323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-09.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 21:26:30 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32ab2392.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32a7ac96.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961206175300.MAA24136@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32a7ac96.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>Fitch
>>Wondering what was wrong with typewriters, mimeograph
>>machines, sliderules, and time to think once in a while as
>>o

>Let's see you do this with your typewriter!

>Peter

Touche'

Once upon a time, a long time ago, I did it with radio waves
- it was called amature radio.  Didn't ever do it with a
typewriter.

Fitch



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:56 EST 1996
Article: 43324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 00:02:10 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <32ac7423.316317743@news.islandnet.com>
References: <32A7232F.1DA@pobox.com> <587d1v$egt@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32a9dcf1.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <ldick-0712962023230001@phila108-pri.voicenet.com> <32abbf18.269970930@news.islandnet.com> <ldick-0812960915310001@philly132.voicenet.com>
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ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson) wrote:


>Oh yes, carbide can be used on an engine lathe for parting. You just have
>to keep in mind the cutting surface speed. I have even stopped a cut,
>increased the rpm and continued the parting cut. ( with feed and coolant,
>of course)

Hey, I never said that it couldn't be used - I just said that the
finish will be poor in the center portion. 
Yes, you can increase the RPM but I doubt that your machine will
support infinit speed which is what you theoretically need in the
center. For us mortals with machines that only go to 2000 RPM, the
last 1/2 inch will be messy.

>I have found a reluctance on the part of some machinists to run at high
>surface speeds. Carbide is a great cutting tool material. You must keep it
>happy with high surface speeds and constant temperature.

No argument there.

>I would suggest that for the home shop hobbyist, carbide tooling 
>creates more problems than it solves. HSS cutting tools and a bench
>grinder to form them provides the machinist much versatility to
>manufacture specialized parts.

Carbide (indexable) tooling is the neatest thing since sliced bread. I
prefer it so much that there is rarely a cut that I don't use carbide
for. Yes, special tooling still requires HSS bits but that rarely
happens.

>Grinding HSS tool bits for lathe /shaper work however, has become lost skill.

Agreed .... some of us never had it to begin with so they couldn't
loose it. For us indexable carbide bits are a godsend.

>I could go on forever about this. : )

Feel free, I am sure a lot of people find it interesting.

Regards

Jens



From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:57 EST 1996
Article: 43325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.80.63.252!delphi.com!usenet
From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 20:46:57 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <58f9g1$i8t@news2.delphi.com>
References: <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bix.com
X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.3

Abrasha wrote:
>I have no problem with sharing my expertise on subjects I know >something
about, but it  rubs me the wrong way when people seem to be >plain lazy and
not willing to use the resources available to them.
>
I understand your annoyance, but in this case I think it is misdirected.

The questioner simply wanted to know what the thing is. A one or two
sentence response would have sufficed. It seems to me that's a perfectly
appropiate question in the NG.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:58 EST 1996
Article: 43326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 20:47:00 GMT
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <58f9g4$i8t@news2.delphi.com>
References: <32AA8636.323D@abrasha.com>
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Abrasha wrote:
>This is a treatise on the Astrolabe which Chaucer wrote to explain the use
>of the device 
>to his 10 year old son Lewis.  The entire text of this treatise is
>available online in 
>Middle English (without illustrations) at
>http://www4.torget.se/artbin/art/oastro.html 
>If you are not well versed in Middle English, you won't even get through
>the first 
>paragraph though.
>
I managed to struggle through it 20 years or so ago when my first wife was
in the M.phil program at University College Dublin. But I had to look up
some other references to make sense of what I was reading.

--RC


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:02:59 EST 1996
Article: 43327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!tezcat!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:37:26 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 11
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On Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:10:21 -0500, tony <tonyd@spec.net> wrote:

>Why not try running the spindle in reverse and threading with the tool upside down?
>Does the lathe have the reverse option?

That won't help, you'll still be cutting a right hand thread, just
upside down and backwards.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:00 EST 1996
Article: 43328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 21:04:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Cutoff tools chatter & Squeal for the following reasons:

1. Above or below center line, most often below.  VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Be
sure to cut on the centerline.

2. Rigidity,  too much stickout, reduce the amount of tool to the minimum
to get the part off.  Cut as claoe to the tool post as you can.

3. Speed too low, Feed too light -  remember you are using carbide - speed
it up, and also feed agressively when you speed it up.  You'll get the
feed right in a little bit it's a feel you 'll pick up fast.  Look in the
tables for the tool you are using, it gives a feed rate for the tool.  Use
it.


From davidlindq@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:02 EST 1996
Article: 43329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davidlindq@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pratt and Whitney 10X20 Bench Lathe?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 21:01:09 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <01bbe379$fa469be0$1806b69d@STOUT.CAF.WVU.EDU>, "Benjamin J.
Groover" <bgroover@wvu.edu> writes:

>I went to look at  a Pratt and Whitney bench lathe yesterday.  The lathe
>will be auctioned off in the near future and I was wondering if anyone
>knows anything about it and its value.   The name plate claims its a
>Pratt and Whitney 10X20 bench lathe model M-1689 ser#448.   

This lathe sounds very nice from your description. Others in the newsgroup
will be more able to answer your questions about value and so forth. One
possible consideration is the sad fact that Pratt & Whitney is one of the
major old line American machine tool builders that has fallen by the
wayside. Parts and manuals may not be available. Possibly someone else out
there will have more information on this. According to my 10th ed. of
_Serial Number Reference Book_, this machine was built in 1940.

8 Dec. 1996

David Lindquist
Davidlindq@aol.com


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:03 EST 1996
Article: 43330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:37:28 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 25
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On Sat, 07 Dec 1996 11:20:00 -0800, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>Yup, I can second that opinion based on trying to face workpieces with
>carbide.
>It's most annoying when you get a mirror like finish and at about one
>inch in diameter you get tearing of the metal (HRS). It doesn't matter
>what speed you go at ... start position of the tears will change but
>it will always be there.
>Having said that,carbide should still work for cutoff  (not tried it)
>except for the poor surface finish at the end ... and I get that with
>HSS anyway.

Carbide works wonderful for cut-off, whether on a manual lathe or CNC.
I've used the Iscar tools for many years, on everything from 10" Logan
Lathes (circa 1950) 18" Monarch (1942) and Roeperwerk CNC (1988).  The
speed changes, but the relative merits still prevail.

BTW, even with CNC, you can still get tearing at small diameters.  All
tools have a maximum spindle speed.  On our Roeperwerk, it is 4000
RPM.  Since I usually do rough turning at 500 sfm and finishing at
1000 sfm, I top out at about 1/2" for roughing, and 1" for finishing.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From emporer@success.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:04 EST 1996
Article: 43331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: emporer@success.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for spun tops
Date: 8 Dec 1996 21:27:14 GMT
Organization: a Digital Internet AlphaServer Site
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>   gemmetspin@aol.com writes:
>  If you can't find a supplier for off the shelf items contace a local metal
>  spinner, they will be able to make just about anything you're interested
>  in.
>  
>  Alan Hall
>  
>  
>>>>
Looking in my local yellow pages, I see:

Metal Finishers
Metal Rolling & Forming
Metal Splitting and Shearing
Metal Stamping
Metallurgists

No Metal Spinners.  Any other possible code words, or am I just in a benighted 
area?  I'll phone a friend in the Philadelphia area and get him to read me the
metal section of their yellow pages...

Lance
LaForge
http://www.joust.com/LaForge


From nbear@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:06 EST 1996
Article: 43332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: nbear@ix.netcom.com(Neil, Norma Reichline)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 8 Dec 1996 21:32:48 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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>Saved Soul wrote:
>> 
>> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16
and
>> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

Kinda weird about not doing crafts. Jesus was a carpenter...Ah well.
I'm happy for this guy that he feels saved. Now he oughta focus on
getting a life...


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:07 EST 1996
Article: 43333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Grizzly Gear-Head Mill/Drill
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <32A782BE.F83@m6.sprynet.com> <58crtm$6ge@majesty.lightlink.com>
Organization: DAA-DAA
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I have a Rung-Fu RF-40 gear head mill-drill which I am very pleased with. 
The Grizzly appears in their advertisements to be this same machine.  The
only minor problem was a squeak which developed in the motor a few
weeks after setting it up.  When I took the motor off for a dry run test, I
discovered that the problem was a dry coupling from the motor to gearbox. 
After dabbing some grease in the coupling joint, it has run real fine.  I
bought my unit through Penn Tool (1-800--526-4956) at $1895 two to three
years ago.  

I bought a Penn Tool SCX-125  power feed, but it was dead out of the box,
so I sent it back.  I later bought an Align AL-99 from another supplier
which fit on well and has worked real well.  

Another tip - don't put a 6 inch vice on these small machines.  I bought a
4 inch Quad-4 ($395), which has been a good choice.  My belief is that a
cheap vice will never yield good results. 
 
Rung-Fu had a booth at IMTS, with an RF-45 gear head built on a dovetail
column.  I did not get a price, and have not seen one advertised in the US.
 If you are interested, Penn Tool may be able to quote.  The big advantage
is the ability to move the head up and down without having to use a dial
indicator and big square to assure that the spindle is still over the hole
after moving.
-- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com

Martin Violette <violette@lightlink.com@lightlink.com  > wrote in article
<58crtm$6ge@majesty.lightlink.com>...
> In <32A782BE.F83@m6.sprynet.com>, "Robert H. Blodinger"
<w4npx@m6.sprynet.com> writes:
> >Can anyone out there (not connected with Grizzly and with experience on
> >the machine) tell me anything about the quality of the Grizzly G1126
> >Gear Head Mill/Drill.
> >
> >Please email to me direct.  Thanks in advance
> >
> >BOB
> >-- 
> >Robert H. Blodinger
> 
> 
> I would also be interested - please post any reply as well as answering
directly.  Thanks - Martin
> 


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:08 EST 1996
Article: 43334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:10:07 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32A620EE.6603@ix.netcom.com>
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To: Jim Waggener <creativ@norfolk.infi.net>

you beter turn off your computer
and go look at it
check the s/n
if you give me the s/n i can tell you the age 
if it is in halfway decent shape
then BUY IT 

regards
andy popky


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:09 EST 1996
Article: 43335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: 8 Dec 1996 22:29:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 22
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In article <E23D13.55@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:

>An acetylene regulator works fine.  You will need an adapter for the
tank.
>I have been using this sort of rig for 20 years.

  Adapter? Are you using the the little MC size tank? Or do you have
regulators for a MC size tank? The standard size regulator made for the
bigger tanks will fit right on a propane tank.


   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From wpm1@gramercy.ios.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:10 EST 1996
Article: 43336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Donald Arnone <wpm1@gramercy.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:47:51 -0800
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William wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 06 Dec 1996 14:08:24 +0000, Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk>
> wrote:
> 
> >Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
> >other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
> >now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
> >watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
> >confused.
> 
> Don't know about that, I just took up quilting.  Requires a great deal
> of patience and the ability to do things exactly.  I am working at it.
> 
> However, I drink beer, watch football (american) and listen to Janis
> Joplin CD's.  I think everyone else is confused.
> 
> Happy Holidays!!
> 
> Bill..
Better off NOT CROSSPOSTING!!!! USENET VIOLATION..can
be Terminal.


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:12 EST 1996
Article: 43337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Propane
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Robert wrote:
> 
> What kind of regulator do I need to do cutting with propane in stead of
> acetlene?

I've successfully used an acetylene regulator, but I'm no expert. You
can also get cheaper regulators specifically made for propane.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:13 EST 1996
Article: 43338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:17:35 GMT
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Dan Danknick (xray@pobox.com) wrote:
>: I just bought one of those cool cutoff tools with the insertable carbide
>: tips for my lathe. The arm that holds the carbide is 0.5" square and
>: about 5" long. So I tightened it into my tool post, installed an insert
>: and started to part a small piece of CRS. Squeal! More cutting fluid.
>: Squeal! Now the dogs in the neighborhood are barking. Not much cutting
>: happening at the part, either. Idea: reposition the tool arm closer into
>: the tool post and retry. Nice cut.

>: Question: what's going on here? Is my saddle loose on the ways? Short of
>: cutting nylon or aluminum I can't think of a softer material to cut.

>Cutoff tools are noted for their tendency to chatter, and it is always
>recommended to get the tool-post as close to the cut as possible.  In other
>words, make the length of cutoff tool extend just barely more than the 
>radius of the workpiece.

>And, yes, there could be just a bit of looseness in the lathe carriage or
>slides, or in the spindle.  You should also have the area to be cut as
>close to the chuck jaws as possible.

>						Jon

To what Jon said I would add the following about my use of
an insert cutting tool.

I use the power cross feed at a feed setting of .0016"  to
002" per revolution and totally flood the thing with oil.
I generally run at the same speed I would if I was turning
with HSS bits.  I could probably go faster but it would
fling oil everywhere.  Only problems I have had with an
insert cutoff tool is when I didn't get it square enough to
the work or didn't feed it in agressively enough.

Fitch



From mjones@mhsgate.ewi.org Tue Dec 17 14:03:14 EST 1996
Article: 43339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Marty Jones <mjones@mhsgate.ewi.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Welding and Joining Newsgroups
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 14:55:39 -0500
Organization: EWI, Materials Joining Technology
Lines: 13
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Please see the Call for Votes (CFV) in news.announce.newgroups for how
to vote for the creation of two new Usenet newsgroups:

sci.engr.joining.misc  
sci.engr.joining.welding

The posted article is titled:
"CFV: sci.engr.joining.misc, sci.engr.joining.welding"

-Marty Jones
EWI, Materials Joining Technology Center
Columbus, OH
Phone: 614/688-5146


From tool@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:15 EST 1996
Article: 43340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <tool@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HAPPY HANUKAH
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:14:41 -0500
Organization: XL MACHINERY SALES
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happy Hanukah to all you groupies out there

andy popky


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:16 EST 1996
Article: 43341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 01:01:04 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 15
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On Wed, 04 Dec 1996 12:57:15 -0400, jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
wrote:

>Just to add another cutoff tool data point, I've been getting good results
>on stainless with the Enco / Swiss type toolholder, the one with a 40
>position vertically splined column. They aren't worth the ~600 list price
>but my set cost $50 second hand. Apparently they are unwanted orphans.

I've heard that that type is actually far superior to the Aloris type
and its clones.  Not sure why, in fact, I've never even looked at one
closely.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:17 EST 1996
Article: 43342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Morton Machinery, are you out there?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 01:11:46 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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Did anyone else receive a huge e-mail from Morton?  Apparently, I was
on their mailing list (on my CIS account), and this evening received a
junk mail from them on some Maho Machines they were selling.  The damn
message was over 95 Kb!  Apparently had a uuencoded photo with it, but
CIS doesn't handle those too well.

Am I the only one "lucky" enough to receive this?  Am I out of line
for being offended by this?  I would think that they should have sent
a brief message saying what was available, and a pointer to their Web
address.
 

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:18 EST 1996
Article: 43343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: 8 Dec 1996 23:43:27 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Jay:

I am so delighted that you have been able to respond to my
request for assistance, and provided me with your comprehensive
comments.

Next time, when I go home I have to discuss your findings with
our w/s supervisor and see what we can do next.

In the meantime, I shall remain with great thanks

Alberto
in London.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:19 EST 1996
Article: 43344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 03:54:19 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Roger Jones <r-pjones@worldnet.att.net> wrote:


>There is an article by Ron Chernich describing his efforts building a 
>Quorn.  His address is Ron_Chernich@pacstar.com.au.

His excellent write-up is located at 
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~chernich/quorn.htm

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:20 EST 1996
Article: 43345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 03:54:15 -0800
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hook@usit.net wrote:

>heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
>any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
>ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
>all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
>come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
>forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!!

Groan ....
Jens


From zephead@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:22 EST 1996
Article: 43346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lyn <zephead@mindspring.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 19:09:05 +0100
Organization: I don't THINK so...
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Saved Soul wrote:
> 
>All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

Idle hands are the devil's workshop...

Lyn


From wpm1@gramercy.ios.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:23 EST 1996
Article: 43347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!mr.net!news.idt.net!nntp.farm.idt.net!news
From: Donald Arnone <wpm1@gramercy.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 19:08:09 -0800
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Chris wrote:
> 
> zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:
> 
> [snip]
> >... All of your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> >you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
> 
> When I was a kid, I remember visiting a neighbor's house and swimming
> in their pool with my family.  In the little changing room near their
> pool they had a sign which said: "We don't swim in your toilet, so
> please don't pee in our pool."
> 
> I spend a lot of time in a religiously oriented newsgroup, and
> consider myself a committed, converted Christian.  I'd be just as
> offended at someone from a craft newsgroup heading on into that
> newsgroup to try to "convert" me to crafts as I was with your post
> here.  There's a time and place for everything, including some decent
> recreation.  We don't mess with your beliefs, so please don't trash
> our recreation, to paraphrase the old swimming pool sign.
> 
> And personally, I'd rather trust His judgement of me than yours any
> day.  My automatic signature block (both parts) below speaks for
> itself particularly well on this issue....
> 
> Chris
> 
> crs01@mindspring.com
> 
> Wishing you and yours a joyous
>  Christmas in the true spirit
>         of the season.
> 
> ==============================
> "You can not solve the problem
> with the same kind of thinking
> that has created the problem."
>    (Albert Einstein)
> ==============================The Message is Not the Problem...The Abuse of CROSSPOSTING
is the Problem!!!


From pdrumm@dwave.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:24 EST 1996
Article: 43348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!visi.com!news
From: pdrumm@dwave.net (Peter Drumm)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RE: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: 9 Dec 1996 00:28:20 GMT
Organization: (missing)
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In message <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net> - hook@usit.netFri, 06 Dec 1996
01:03:23 GMT writes:
:->
:->heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
:->any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
:->ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
:->all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
:->come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
:->forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net
:->

OK. here's a quest for you. By an American made lathe 12x40 inches or
over, with no fiber or plastic parts(the way they were made years
ago), at least a one year warranty on all moving parts. And I do mean
-every- part has to be Made In America, and assembled in America. Can
you find one?

pdrumm@dwave.net <http://www.dwave.net/~pdrumm>
Using OS/2 Warp 4!
Wausau, WI. 44d 58m 00s N x 89d 36m 45s W
All opinions are mine alone, you go get your own!



From cpollard@csn.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:25 EST 1996
Article: 43349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: 9 Dec 1996 00:26:36 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
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hook@usit.net wrote:
: heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
: any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
: ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
: all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
: come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
: forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net
Then why do high volume production shops run Japanese CNC's - it all
depends on what you want to do and how many times you want to do it. 
Sometimes buying foreign equipment makes financial sense so that a
business can succeed.  If I tried to buy American everything I would soon
go out of business -which would be the opposite of your intention.  One
works in a global economy and compete however you can.


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:26 EST 1996
Article: 43350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas 12x36 lathe ??
Date: 9 Dec 1996 00:59:08 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <58fo8s$m7a@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ron-ny1-25.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Dec 08  4:59:08 PM PST 1996

In <Pine.BSI.3.95.961206135546.14862A-100000@hudson.idt.net> Glenn
Goens <gdgoen19@hudson.idt.net> writes: 
>
>
>I'd like to solicit opinions as to a fair price for an Atlas 12x36
lathe.
>The lathe in question is to be offered at auction later this month in
>Cincinnati, OH.  The description of the lathe in the auction flyer
reads
>as follows:
>
>" 12" x 36" atlas Model 3996 Cabinet Type Engine Lathe; s/n 106622,
>  6" 3-jaw chuck, collets and draw bar, 16 spindle speeds 28-2072 RPM
"
> This is the largest lathe that is listed (the others are a 10x24
South Bend and a 9x18 Hardinge) for the auction.
>
>
>
Sorry for not jumping right in on this and similar posts, I am busy
moving my entire store- pretty much by myself.
Several things listed in the description make this machine desirable.
1) the 36" center distance is a desirable feature.
2) The collets and collet closer are worth some money as an accessory.
3) A cabinet model is more desirable (read valuable) to many users.
Assuming the lathe has a quick change gear box and is in good
condition, it can be worth between $850 and $1500 or more. The range is
for good to excellent condition and depends on several other factors.
These factors include how bad you really want or need the machine, how
scarce such machines are in your part of the country, and how many
accessories are included. 
 While the Atlas is the *biggest* machine listed, don't miss
considering the Southbend or the Hardinge. I wouldn't consider trading
my 10"x18" Southbend for a 12"x36" Atlas.
 You should be able to find out enough info about the condition of the
machine without running it. I rarely if ever get to run machines before
I buy them.
  Once you get to the auction, determine what you want to pay for the
machine long before the bidding starts. If the machine goes over the
amount walk away. That way you will avoid "auction fever" and its
expensive aftermath.
Good Luck

Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery
http://hre.com/meridian

 


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:28 EST 1996
Article: 43351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 01:06:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <58fomn$2qe@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ron-ny1-25.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Dec 08  5:06:31 PM PST 1996

In <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com> plalbrecht@aol.com
writes: 
>
>What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of
one
>locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.
>
>Pete

The machine should be worth between $500 and $800 depending on what you
percieve to be excellent condition. Keep in mind that vises for these
shapers as well as the toolholders are rare and expensive. I was
offered $200 for an original Atlas shaper vise in mint condition.
Unfortunately, I had already promised it to the guy buying the shaper.
Also, Atlas made a nice maple top stand for the shaper that is worth
extra money. 

Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery
http://hre.com/meridian



From kdscopes@knklinks.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:29 EST 1996
Article: 43352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-6.sprintlink.net!coopnews.coop.net!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!news
From: kdscopes@knklinks.com (Ken Wilhoite)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT DOES HSM STAND FOR?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 18:48:36 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <58fb73$eut@clark.zippo.com>
References: <19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com>
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

pdnrd@aol.com wrote:

>IT'S OBVIOUSLY SOME KIND OF MAGAZINE,
>I WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT THEM IF SOMEONE HAS THEIR PHONE#
>SOUNDS LIK E A GOOD MAG.
>THANKS FOR READING, HAVE A GREAT DAY!
>PAUL NORDHAUGEN

HSM = Home Shop Machinist, a magazine.  
Address:
2779 Aero Park Drive
Traverse City, MI 49686
(800) 327-7377
It is a very usful and entertaining magazine.  While I haven't
built many of their projects, I usually find useful machining tips and
tricks in every issue..




From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:30 EST 1996
Article: 43353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.149.24.18!excalibur.flash.net!not-for-mail
From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:43:32 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1085

I have to disagree with you guys who feel we should "rough it" in order to
learn.  I have a coax indicator also... I use it in my vertical miller.  I
find it absolutely indispensable and a wonderful time saver.

According to your philosophy, anything other than a metal file is a
luxury.  I guess I should ditch my machine tools.

I think guys who discuss new tools should be able to post their
discoveries so that other folks can learn as well without fear of
chastisement... that is the whole idea :-)

Kurt Bjorn





From bjc@nworks.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:31 EST 1996
Article: 43354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: <bjc@nworks.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 96 16:36:02 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Knorrostol Review
Message-ID: <tcpnntpd.16.12.7.16.36.2.2645935021.785488@nworks.com>
Organization: NetWorks Online Service
NNTP-Posting-Host: nworks.com
X-MajorTCP-Version: MajorTCP/IP [2.00-9]
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-=> Quoting Int:teamhail@aol.com to ** All ** <=-


 In> I bought a tube of Knorrostol to clean up some rusted V
 In> blocks awhile back (still haven't done em yet though) on
 In> the advise of The Machinist

Where does one obtain this stuff??

Regards,
Brad Chaucer
BChaucer@ix.netcom.com

... The more corrupt the state, the more numerous the laws. - Tacitus
___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30

  +----------------------------------------------+
  | NetWorks Online Service    (860)257-9906     |
  | http://www.nworks.com      nworks.com        |
  +----------------------------------------------+



From mjhawley@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:32 EST 1996
Article: 43355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.webspan.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Joan and Michael Hawley <mjhawley@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:15:03 -0800
Organization: Netcom
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Message-ID: <32AB9247.2D80@ix.netcom.com>
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Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!


Holy Roller:

Do you really think that harassing your fellow human will reserve you a seat in the 
great front row pew in the sky?

Hey, work on you spelling and grammar.  God is in the details, you know.

Joan




From scheep20@worldaccess.nl Tue Dec 17 14:03:34 EST 1996
Article: 43356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!sun4nl!news.worldaccess.nl!usenet
From: scheep20@worldaccess.nl
Newsgroups: digischool.huiswerk,nl.markt.banen,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: give us a client and we'll give you money
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 01:39:00 GMT
Organization: World Access
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NNTP-Posting-Host: tlb3-4.worldaccess.nl
X-Newsreader: Quarterdeck Message Center [2.00]



> > We are a plumbing and central heating business in the Noord-brabant region of 
> > holland and we're on the lookout for a jobhunter.
> > 
> >  If through you we get a contract with a client we'll give you a whopping 5 % 
> of 
> > the total bill that's going to the client.
> > 
> >  Now how about that for easy money ?? Earn up to FL 500,-- per month easily 
> with 
> > very little effort. 
> > 
> >  For details return e-mail with "jobhunt" in the title
> 




From maltster@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:35 EST 1996
Article: 43357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.webspan.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: maltster@ix.netcom.com (Larry Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 02:45:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <58fr38$ofl@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39564 rec.collecting.dolls:30071 rec.collecting.ornaments:31 rec.collecting.paper-money:3067 rec.collecting.phonecards:8611 rec.collecting.postal-history:2277 rec.collecting.sport:75 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:193052 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:112679 rec.collecting.sport.football:142242 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:103329 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14097 rec.collecting.stamps:40998 rec.collecting.villages:5671 rec.crafts:86 rec.crafts.beads:11762 rec.crafts.brewing:109998 rec.crafts.carving:1017 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3125 rec.crafts.glass:4158 rec.crafts.jewelry:16126 rec.crafts.marketplace:10828 rec.crafts.metalworking:43357 rec.crafts.misc:27187 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11496 rec.crafts.pottery:3275 rec.crafts.quilting:105 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2171 rec.crafts.textiles:113 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1036 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5414 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:95223 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:33949

Joan and Michael Hawley <mjhawley@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Saved Soul wrote:
>> 
>> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!


>Holy Roller:

>Do you really think that harassing your fellow human will reserve you a seat in the 
>great front row pew in the sky?

>Hey, work on you spelling and grammar.  God is in the details, you know.
                     ~~~~~
>Joan

Now, Joan; let he who has perfect diction cast the first stone....


Larry Johnson - Athens, GA - http://www.netcom.com/~maltster



From jfrogge@vnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:36 EST 1996
Article: 43358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!ralph.vnet.net!news
From: Jim Frogge <jfrogge@vnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted:  #2 Cincinnati Grinder.
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:49:05 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <32AB7011.864@vnet.net>
Reply-To: jfrogge@vnet.net
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Wanted:  #2 Cincinnati Grinder. Intersested in all machines in any
condition. Please E-mail to jfrogge@vnet.net  or sdfrog@vnet.net.
-- 
            
  Jim & Lori Frogge ...In the Foothills of NC
  "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open
   your mouth and remove all doubts!"


From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:37 EST 1996
Article: 43359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!204.253.208.40!insync!news.io.com!news.fc.net!paranoia.com!filipg
From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas welding FAQ/info?
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 9 Dec 1996 02:21:35 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
Lines: 13
Sender: filipg@paranoia.com
Message-ID: <58ft3f$6rg@villa.fc.net>
References: <slrn5a654c.rd4.rbinder@y.ucf.engr>
NNTP-Posting-Host: primus.paranoia.com
Summary: nope... but

In Article <slrn5a654c.rd4.rbinder@y.ucf.engr>, through puissant locution, rbinder@y.ucf.engr (Rubin Binder) soliloquized:
>Anyone know of any oxy-acetylene FAQ's or other info available on the net?

Greetings. Not that I have seen.. but a trip to the local library in search
of MIG welding books showed a list of about 4 oxac books. I wish I had
found even one exclusively-MIG book... but NooooOOOOoooo...  [sigh]

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au Tue Dec 17 14:03:38 EST 1996
Article: 43360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!metro!metro!manuel.ocs.mq.edu.au!news
From: John Haddy <johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Waterjet project
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 13:37:22 +1100
Organization: Macquarie University Electronics
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32AB7B62.59E2B600@mpce.mq.edu.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: avalanche.mpce.mq.edu.au
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; I; SunOS 4.1.4 sun4m)

Hi All,

I was toying with the idea of making a high pressure water jet,
as are sold for home maintenance (my father just bought one to
clean mildew off the outdoor slate terrace).

My question is: does anybody have a feel for the pressure
required? Obviously, too much will abrade the surface, whereas
too little will fail to do the job. I assume the mode of
operation is through cavitation?

Also, what are the NG's recomendations for the style of driver - 
e.g. multi stage centrifugal pump, or double acting piston, etc.
What size motor will be required?

Thanks in advance for any assistance,

JohnH

-- 
      |  _  |_   _   |_|  _   _|  _|              Electronics Department
    |_| (_) | | | |  | | (_| (_| (_| \/           Macquarie University
    ---------------------------------/-           Sydney, AUSTRALIA 2109

    Email: johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au, Ph: +61 2 850 9090, Fax: +61 2 850 9128


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:39 EST 1996
Article: 43361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:25:34 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32AB86AE.93F@cyberhighway.net>
References: <58c52i$1lhc@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <19961208171000.MAA14605@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
To: pnpnolan@aol.com

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
.....
I have found this little saw to be
> the best single item I have ever bought.

I think the second best is the 4x36x6 belt/disk sander...

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From filipg@paranoia.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:41 EST 1996
Article: 43362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!news.io.com!news.fc.net!paranoia.com!filipg
From: filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 9 Dec 1996 03:25:03 GMT
Organization: Women NEVER lie about sexual harassment... EXCEPT Paula Jones
Lines: 55
Sender: filipg@paranoia.com
Message-ID: <58g0qf$82k@villa.fc.net>
References: <56sepg$79e@news-c1.gnn.com> <57fff6$k22@blixen.aquilagroup.com> <57v7ab$clp@villa.fc.net> <57va5s$9d0@gazette.engr.sgi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: primus.paranoia.com
Summary: of course!

In Article <57va5s$9d0@gazette.engr.sgi.com>, through puissant locution, cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) soliloquized:
>The problem is access, or rather, access control. We'd like all the
>rcm'ers out there to be able to put things onto the public web site, but
>not allow all the crackers out there to use it for hiding and
>distributing bootleg software or porn...

Greetings. This is how a PROPERLY setup system works: there is an 
"incoming" directory which is world-write... every so many days
someone "privelaged" logs in and moves the files off to where 
they belong. Each upload comes with a ".rcm" file which describes
the main file, gives the uploader's name & signature & password,
and where they wish the file to go. I don't recommend an auto-
matic system (daemon) to do this as it usually leads to attempts
to exploit it and claim some sort of superiority on alt.2600 :-|

This is how, for example, the Linux FTP sites work. They have a
formal submit file called .lsm (Linux software map) which
contains info about the uploader and uploaded file. They have an
assigned "moderator" who takes care of this... There is also a
message board software which makes it possible to have a
WWW "chat room"... example-off-the-top-of-my-head:

http://www.htmlhelp.com/wwwboard/

and there are countless hundreds of similar setups. Then again,
the POINT here is a center for images and plans and that can
be taken care of with a simple combination of a WWW and FTP
site. Once files are FTP'eble, FTP-to-e-mail services can even
send files to those who are NOT on the www or have FTP.. I 
believe FIDO networks and BBSes fall under this category.

Sigh... this is more complicated than it needs to be. What you
need:

* WWW site with as little as 1MB of space (files stored below)
* FTP site with properly-setup incoming directory
  1) at least 10MB of space in several well-categorized
     directories
  2) privelaged-access to select-few people appointed by the
     group who would sweep the warzone /incoming for files
     with valid ".rcm" files - and dicards the rest. "Those
     there be the rulez".

Something along those lines can be set up for under $200/year.
Of course, we would need volunteers... I'm taking full-time
next term (back in college after ~4 years out...) so I can
just suggest things. Keeping up my own WWW site will be a
circus as it is...

Take care.
-- 
+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:42 EST 1996
Article: 43363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Waterjet project
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 07:41:40 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <32acde63.343517976@news.islandnet.com>
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John Haddy <johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au> wrote:

This whole thing is silly - buy a commercial pump and be done with it!

>My question is: does anybody have a feel for the pressure
>required? 

Depends on what you want to do, how fast you want to do it, what kind
of water flow you have available.

1500 PSI is about the minimum useful pressure, 2500 PSI would be real
nice. The pressure will do you very little good if you havent got a
decent flow rate .... 3 gal/min is minimum and the more the better.

>Obviously, too much will abrade the surface, whereas
>too little will fail to do the job.

No, not really ... you could run it at 100000 PSI if you would like
to, just don't put the nozzle too close to the job surface :)

> I assume the mode of
>operation is through cavitation?

Unknown  ....

>Also, what are the NG's recomendations for the style of driver - 
>e.g. multi stage centrifugal pump, or double acting piston, etc.

Most commercial units are piston pumps

>What size motor will be required?

depends on pressure and flow rate selected. A 1500 PSI @ 3 gpm will
require about 3 hp.

>Thanks in advance for any assistance,

You are welcome but I still think you would be nutty trying to build
one of these when commercial units are available so cheaply.
Save some time and efford and build something that can't be bought for
a few dollars or can't be bought at all.


Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:43 EST 1996
Article: 43364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 07:41:46 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <32ade0de.344152250@news.islandnet.com>
References: <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com> <19961209030000.WAA29307@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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It's interesting that all the replies to this seem to be heading
towards a visor type magnifier - something I hadn't even considered.
Can anybody tell me why the visor is so great rather than to use a
loope type ???? 
The visor type doesn't seem to get high enough in the magnifications
for real close inspection ....

Jens


From chi@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:45 EST 1996
Article: 43365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Curt Hagenlocher" <chi@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lautard Tool and Cutter Grinding Jig
Date: 9 Dec 1996 03:30:11 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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Has anyone looked into or built Guy Lautard's
Tinker Tool and Cutter Grinding Jig?  What did you find?

--
Curt Hagenlocher
chi@earthlink.net


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:46 EST 1996
Article: 43366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:16:06 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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In article <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:

> I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
> inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
> I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
> there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
> here first.
> Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
> type but again, there are a lot of different choices.
> 
> PS.: I am sure this will be much more interesting to people than
> picking up the import bashing thread again :)
> 
> Jens

Jens:
My all time favorite was (note unfortunate past tense) a 10X
Ophthalmologist's stereo microscope with a 10 inch working distance and a
parrallelogram adjustable holder that clamped on to the edge of a table or
lathe or mill---.BUT (and I never really saw the price) bring lotsa $$$.
Next to that a stereo zoom 7-30X inspection 'scope is pretty great. I just
ordered one of those from a fellow that had a few, (for $150-- a *real*
bargain).

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From gord-gil@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:48 EST 1996
Article: 43367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: gord-gil@ix.netcom.com (Randy Gordon-Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photo-etching brass
Date: 9 Dec 1996 04:21:14 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <58g43q$b8a@sjx-ixn8.ix.netcom.com>
References: <588g9h$c2p@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au>
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In article <588g9h$c2p@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au>, lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au 
said...

>Would anyone be able to offer advice on photo-etching brass sheet for 
>model making? I want to produce HO scale carriage sides, preferably using 
>this technique, and using AutoCAD to produce the masks.

Lachie,

Check out the 2mm Scale Association's picture gallery webpage at

http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/

It includes an article I've written on my home photoetching setup. Sometime 
after the first of the year, I will have my own webpage with an updated article 
including a new etching tank, and the first results with a UV lamp exposure 
unit made from a Think & Tinker kit.

Good luck with your effort.

Randy
--
gord-gil@ix.netcom.com ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
Randy Gordon-Gilmore  // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
Benicia, CA, USA     /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
                                  -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-



From davedc@a.crl.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:49 EST 1996
Article: 43368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news5.crl.com!nexp.crl.com!usenet
From: davedc@a.crl.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 21:05:06 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32AB9E02.3E64@a.crl.com>
References: <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net> <588hgb$n5b@nw101.infi.net>
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Jim Waggener wrote:
> 
> creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
> 
> >Quoted from the local paper:
> 
> >LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
> 
> >This worth a second look? Opinions?
> 
> >Jim Waggener
> 
> Whoops, I was a day late and a dollar short (again!)
> The lathe was sold to the first comer.
> The guy who owned it said it was purchased at auction
> from one of the local high schools.
> 
> ANOTHER school shop course bites the dust.
> 
> Jim Waggener


  I wonder if it was the 13" Leblond from my old high school.
That thing took quite some abuse!  I should know <g>...
 Where was it?


From sviger@microtec.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:50 EST 1996
Article: 43369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!132.205.106.4!newsflash.concordia.ca!news.mcgill.ca!news.risq.qc.ca!sunqbc.risq.net!pegasus.odyssee.net!news
From: "Sebastien Viger" <sviger@microtec.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: escape wheel Le coultre k825 ref. 701
Date: 9 Dec 1996 00:24:06 GMT
Organization: Odyssee Internet
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <01bbe566$f3bd1260$4f05bace@identifiant.microtec.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: as51-2-ppp3.que.microtec.net
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I am looking for escape wheel Le coultre k825 ref. 701

Tank you

Sviger@microtec.net

Atelier de réparations d'horlogerie André Viger
6168 Des faons
Charlebourg, Québec, Canada
G1G 1J1
418-626-6930



From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:51 EST 1996
Article: 43370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 23:27:41 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net>
References: <58c52i$1lhc@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <19961208171000.MAA14605@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: pnpnolan@aol.com

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> The 4-1/2 x 6 advertised by Enco, Grizzly, Harbour Freight and many others
> for around $200 is more than adequate. I have found this little saw to be
> the best single item I have ever bought. I used to dread hacksawing lumps
> of steel before turning or milling them. Now I just clamp it in the saw
> and walk away. Go back when I hear it go "clump" and the saw turns off.
> 
> These saws can be tipped up for vertical use too which is excellent for
> cutting plate and sheet.
> 
> Peter
> Who treats everyone the same! ;)> Providing I snuck through your Killfile
> Mark.

 I also own one of these saws (Harbor frieght version)
needed a few minor tweaks at first,but has performed admirably
for 6-8 years with no problems.
 2 notes:
  the o.e. legs are a piece of crap,but I haven't gotten around to
replacing them so far,must not be too bad.
  stay away from the el-cheapo blades from HF,go spend the money on 
some bi-metal blades,I believe mine are Lennox,they last forever.
Tom


From stardust@ipass.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:52 EST 1996
Article: 43371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!agate!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-atl-21.sprintlink.net!news.voicenet.com!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!news.ipass.net!newsadmin@passport.ipass.net
From: stardust <stardust@ipass.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 08:28:27 -0800
Organization: IPass.net
Lines: 5
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To: Saved Soul <zoner@goodnet.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39581 rec.collecting.dolls:30096 rec.collecting.ornaments:35 rec.collecting.paper-money:3072 rec.collecting.phonecards:8620 rec.collecting.postal-history:2282 rec.collecting.sport:79 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:193148 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:112745 rec.collecting.sport.football:142339 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:103387 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14112 rec.collecting.stamps:41006 rec.collecting.villages:5673 rec.crafts:87 rec.crafts.beads:11767 rec.crafts.brewing:110011 rec.crafts.carving:1019 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3126 rec.crafts.glass:4161 rec.crafts.jewelry:16129 rec.crafts.marketplace:10833 rec.crafts.metalworking:43371 rec.crafts.misc:27199 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11502 rec.crafts.pottery:3276 rec.crafts.quilting:106 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2174 rec.crafts.textiles:114 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1037 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5417 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:95256 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:33961

No offense meant but most people who have access to a computer have
access to both a Bible (there are such areas online even) and a church..
posting this sort of message on every base is spamming.. and one massage
>from  you will NOT save my soul..last I heard that was between a person
and God..


From stackhog@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:53 EST 1996
Article: 43372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Guy Stackhouse <stackhog@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Dim. on Sherline spindle
Date: 9 Dec 1996 05:40:34 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Hello,
  
    I recently started working on building my own small lathe based on
Gingery's book.  I am not casting the pieces, but machining them.  I
signed up for a course at a local community college that gives me access
to their machine shop.

    Sometime in the next few weeks I plan on making the spindle, and I
would like to make it compatible with the sherline lathe.  I understand
that it is 3/4"dia.x 16tpi with a #1 MT.  How long is the threaded 
portion of the spindle?  Is the non-threaded portion 3/4"?  What is the
length of the non-threaded portion, between the shoulder and the threads?

   Thanks for the input.

Guy

stackhog@worldnet.att.net




From garyh82012@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:03:54 EST 1996
Article: 43373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: garyh82012@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Do you know these machines?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 06:03:06 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

I will be attending a few machinery auctions in the near future. These
machines have been mentioned in the ads: Sharp 15x40 gap bed lathe, Lion
17x60 lathe, Webb mill, and a Romi lathe. I have never heard of any of
these before. My budget for a lathe is under $3000. Anyone  out there able
to give me some kind of a clue as to quality or value of any of these
machines? 


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:03:56 EST 1996
Article: 43374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:20:44 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32aaa423.103006286@news.pacbell.net>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <32A978B0.24BA@silcom.com> <58c1lk$bl5@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <58da3g$kje@parlor.hiwaay.net>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

Glad to see I'm not the only one with a taste for Cappucino and Steam!
I did the same to try out my DODI for the first time!
>In article <58c1lk$bl5@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>, cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com 
>says...

>In the same vein, I have used a cappucino frother as a boiler for a small 
>engine.  (This is a DODI, built from plans in Modeltec.)  It has safety valves, 
>and can be run on the stove.  I cut off the nozzle, and extended it with some 
>silicone tubing I got from somewhere.  It seems to make about 10 PSI.
>
>Does that make it a Cappucino Choo Choo?
>

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:03:57 EST 1996
Article: 43375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:30:07 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32aa0dd0.6776177@news.demon.co.uk>
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The moving finger of cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) having
written:

>Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. 

You need the book "Model Boilers and Boilermaking" (by Harris ?),
which was published years ago by one of the UK publishers (MAP ?
Argus?). It's a great book, full of historical detail on different
designs that have been used in full-size practice, techniques for
building your own, and even some reasonably detailed plans.

Great book, and an interesting read. Everyone should have it.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmiths.com 

ISO9000 :- A technique for perfectly managing the development
of a software product so inflexible and hidebound as to be 
completely useless.


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:03:59 EST 1996
Article: 43376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:30:05 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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The moving finger of wdennis@interport.net (Ward Dennis) having
written:

>Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
>metal surface - specifically nikle silver. 

Many of the early photographic process (daguerreotypes, etc.) used a
silver plate as an emulsion. Photographic reference books on old
processes should describe the chemistry involved. As a general rule,
anything the Victorian era could do as leading edge technology can be
reproduced in a home workshop, although sometimes they had a rather
careless attitude to powerful reagents like concentrated nitric acid !

Nickel silver doesn't contain any nickel, but you may be able to get a
jeweller to electro plate some on for you. A thin coating should be
enough for the photography.

--
Do whales have krillfiles ?


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:04:00 EST 1996
Article: 43377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:30:02 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
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The moving finger of geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson) having
written:

>My choice for a flashlight housing would be 6061.

OK, I admit it - I've been out-geeked. I _hate_ it when people are
talking about something and I finally have to admit that it's
completely over my head.

Just what the hell are all the metal alloy numbers, who defines them,
and what book do I need to put on the bookshelf so that I can
understand what on earth is going on here ?  What's the best guidebook
for alloys that I'm likely to buy from either my metal stockist or my
favourite scrappie, and that I'm likely to have a use for ?


--
Richard, I bet you're reading this. Yes, it is a shameful admission.


From xbm79@dial.pipex.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:02 EST 1996
Article: 43378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xbm79@dial.pipex.com (Kevin Heyes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 8 Dec 1996 12:37:53 GMT
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>Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 
bore)
Try to get hold of:
Model Boiler Making - Pearce - ISBN 0 905100 13 1
Available from Tee Publishing
Regent Street
Hinckley
Leicestershire
LE10 088
UK

Model Boilers - M Evans - ISBN 0 85242 923 1
Probably available from Tee

Model Boilers and Boilermaking
K Harris
Probably out of print, my copy's 1967

Good Luck.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:04:03 EST 1996
Article: 43379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" lathe owners input
Date: 2 Dec 1996 05:27:17 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Dave Ficken (mermac@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
<snip>
:  Another problem area on the 10" Atlas (loose change gear model) is the
: mechanism for reversing the leadscrew rotation. It consists of cast
: bevel gears and a shuttle that engages internal splines on the bevel
: gears- Rube Goldberg would be proud of this arrangement. This mechanism
: is a problem area that should definately be checked out before buying.
: It can cost up to $150 to fix this mechanism. 

Well, this mechanism worked fine for about 40 years before I got the lathe,
and about ten years while I used it, until -- one day I ran the carriage
into the tailstock under power feed.  The manual says there is a bushing in
the far-end bearing that relieves crashes like this by splitting.  This may
be true for power feed in the normal direction, but not for the headstock
to tailstock feed direction.  It smashed the gearbox itself, and then
cracked the 'harp' that the change gears mount on.  Made quite a mess.
I ended up buying a re-manufactured quick-change gearbox, because the
cost to go to quick change was not that much more than all the repair
parts I was going to need.  I kept all the parts, however, and was able
to supply the shuttle gear to another 10" Atlas owner, who had a jury-rigged
fix in the gearbox of his new lathe.  So, I'm not sure this gearbox is a
major problem area, unless abuse/accident ocurrs.  Still, it's a good idea
to examine the change gears, the gear mounting bracket, and the gearbox
for damage or excessive wear.  Also examine the gearing and drive parts
behind the apron.  There is quite a bit of machinery back there, and it is
REAL difficult to see.  I suggest a mirror and flashlight.  The carriage
handwheel moves the carriage through a reduction gear and rack and pinion.
The cross-feed drives the screw through a keyed bevel gear on the leadscrew
and more gears above the leadscrew.  The power feed uses split nuts on
the leadscrew, which is an area of major wear.  Examine the split nuts
carefully.  (Note that Clausing still has these for only about $10 a set!)

					Jon



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:04:04 EST 1996
Article: 43380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: silverplating on wax?
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References: <nck9qvnirp.fsf@axel.vigra.com> <58a0do$4qh@pigeon.creighton.edu>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 11:02:09 GMT
Lines: 38


In a previous article, hollen@axel.vigra.com (Dion Hollenbeck) says:

>253.7!atmnet.net!vigra.com!news
>From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: silverplating on wax?
>Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 03:19:22 GMT
>Organization: VisiCom Laboratories, Inc.
>Lines: 14
>Message-ID: <nck9qvnirp.fsf@axel.vigra.com>
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>NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.254.9.2
>X-Newsreader: Gnus v5.3/Emacs 19.34
>
>>> ka0osk  writes:
>
>Since you had nothing in your posting, I am assuming you are wondering
>how to do silverplating on wax.  I seem to remember of a technique
>that put a very thin layer of graphite on the surface of the was and
>the graphite would be electrically conductive and you would end up
>actually plating the graphite, not the wax.
>
>dion
>
>-- 
>Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
>                                             http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
>Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California
>

I did this with a piece of plastic once.  It works.  Warm the wax, and 
roll in powdered graphite.  The plastic I plated was painted, and rolled 
in graphite while the paint was wet.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:04:06 EST 1996
Article: 43381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: 9 Dec 1996 06:11:19 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
: I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
: inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
: I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
: there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
: here first.
: Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
: type but again, there are a lot of different choices.

I have several types, depends on the job at hand.  I use an Opti-Visor
for jobs where I will be doing work at the same place for a long time,
and need just a little magnification.  A 2x or 3x magnification really
helps when working with small parts.  I use a variety of Super-8 mm
projection lenses, which make fabulous loupe magnifiers.  Most won't
actually stay in your eye socket, but I use them by holding the lens
to the eye with one hand, and holding the part up with the other.  You
could easily make a custom fitted loupe adaptor on a lathe.  These
magnifiers are about 25 mm focal length, I don't know what that works
out to in powers, but might be around 10 x.  It is excellent for examining
cutting edges while sharpening.  You get a working distance of about
1/2".  These lenses can be found on the surplus market, at flea markets,
etc.  AT & T dumped boxes of 100 x panasonic hand-held microscopes for
examining fiber optic couplings, and the custom adaptor can be easily
pulled off, leaving a simple microscope with a aa-battery illuminator
built in.  A local surplus shop has them for $15.  These are inferior
to a real quality microscope, but for higher power examination, they
work fine.
						Jon

PS:  Those lucky guys who got the $150 -175 stereo zoom microscopes!
I missed out because my E-mail took to long to get to me!



From RKUIPER@aol.com* Tue Dec 17 14:04:07 EST 1996
Article: 43382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: RKUIPER@aol.com*
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Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
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On Fri, 06 Dec 1996 14:08:24 +0000, Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk>
wrote:

>Brent Beal wrote:

>> NEKOEYES <NEKOEYES@aol.com> wrote:
>> >Beautiful Patchwork Quilts handmande with Aloha in Hawaii.
>> >From "Doll" size to Bed Size
>> >100% Cotton fabrics used
>> >Unique & Beautiful fabrics used
>> >E-Mail for details.
>> are they handcarved---hehehe
>Oddly enough, YES.  Well, not really, but a few visits ago, I bought
>my wife a trinket box made from koa (acacia) wood, which was carved
>with traditional Hawai`ian quilting patterns. Yeah, lookat me,
>I got LOTS of brownie points!

WRONG !!!!
>
>Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
>other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
>now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
>watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
>confused.
>
You're not confused, you cretin. YOU'RE INCOMPETENT. LOOK AT YOUR
CROSS-POSTING, GODDAMMIT:

rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,
rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,
rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,
rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,
rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,
rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,
rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,
rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,
rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,
rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting

I HOPE YOU GET E-MAIL BOMBED INTO ANNIHILATION.


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:08 EST 1996
Article: 43383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 40 Tonne Power Press "Daisy" and dont know what to do ?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 00:33:11 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Friends:
> 
> I have in my UK workshop a 40 Tonne power press which has been idle for a
> number of
> years, the machine is in very good condition and would like to do
> something with it.
> 
> Needless to say, I dont wish to give her away, but what can you build or
> stamp to make
> her pay her way. "Daisy" is now over 20 years old and likes to work, any
> ideas ?
> 
> Alberto


In the spirit of the season (went to see "The Nutcracker" ballet last week with my 
family and friends) I suggest you crack some nuts with the thing.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:09 EST 1996
Article: 43384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 00:54:51 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 42
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Rick Cook wrote:

> I understand your annoyance, but in this case I think it is misdirected.
> 
> The questioner simply wanted to know what the thing is. A one or two
> sentence response would have sufficed. It seems to me that's a perfectly
> appropiate question in the NG.
> 
> --RC

I disagree.  A two WORD querie of the Web would have provided the person who asked the 
question with a wealth of information.  All the person would have needed to type, would 
have been "Infoseek" (or Alta Vista or Webcrawler or etc., etc.) and then "astrolabe" 
and he would have received more than 900, yes NINE HUNDRED, references relating to 
astrolabe.

Yet he chose to ignore the very existance of the medium he is participating in, by 
posing the question to the ng, which in my opinion is an extreme example of laziness.

Apropos, I did post a seperate and rather lenghty response to a poster (I think it was 
you) who called the astrolabe a PRIMITIVE instrument, which really set my remaining 
hairs on end.  Besides, I did supply a very valuable URL relating to astrolabes in both 
my posts.

And while I am on the subject and on my soap box in rant mode, I am equally annoyed at 
the seemingly endless string of people who ask questions as to where to find certain 
items, manufactured in the US.  Invariably, ALL of these questions can be answered by 
searching the Thomas register Online, which I believe is mentioned in the FAQ's of this 
ng.  

Nevertheless, I have many times responded politely to these posts and have given the URL 
of the Thomas Register as well as the results of the searchers I did for the posters of 
the questions.

Every once in a while, all those drips make the bucket get full and it needs to be 
emptied out.  The bucket is empty now, so I can take a bunch of drips again, but sooner 
or later it will fill up again.

Boy, I do feel a little better now.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:10 EST 1996
Article: 43385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 21:37:59 GMT
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References: <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu> <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <587ll4$qop@news-central.tiac.net> <01bbe386.6b93ed00$a5c1c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.27.65

Since this thread seems to have shifted to include a discussion of all
worthwhile gadgets for newbies, I'll throw in my $.02.

As a kid growing up in my Dad's basement shop, I had access to neither a
surface plate nor dial calipers. Laying out was a royal pain using a
combination square and a scriber. Now I see what I was missing. I would be
hard pressed to give up my surface plate and height gage. Same goes for
the calipers--beats the hell out of a vernier.

If you're turning with a dead center in the tailstock, do yourself a favor
and get a ball bearing live center. Throw out the flimsy rocker toolpost
and get an Aloris style.

Buy a little stone to hone your lathe tools after grinding. It really does
help. Get a magnifier and use it a lot, even if your eyes are young.

-- 
Rich Klopp


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:11 EST 1996
Article: 43386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.zeitgeist.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 01:09:30 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32ABD74A.6F57@abrasha.com>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <58ecr1$8ku@soap.news.pipex.net> <32AADAFB.1E10@concentric.net>
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Bryan A. Whitfield wrote:
> 
> Kevin, do you happen to have a phone number for this publisher?
> 
> Bryan
> Royal Oak, Michigan
> 
> Kevin Heyes wrote:
> >
> > >Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8
> > bore)
> > Try to get hold of:
> > Model Boiler Making - Pearce - ISBN 0 905100 13 1
> > Available from Tee Publishing
> > Regent Street
> > Hinckley
> > Leicestershire
> > LE10 088
> > UK
> >
> > Model Boilers - M Evans - ISBN 0 85242 923 1
> > Probably available from Tee
> >
> > Model Boilers and Boilermaking
> > K Harris
> > Probably out of print, my copy's 1967
> >
> > Good Luck.


I believe that the address that Kevin posted for TEE publishing is not the correct one. 
Check their Website at http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/index.html to get the correct 
information, including phone and fax numbers.

The site contains hundreds of books available from them, which are hard or impossible to 
find in the US.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From billn@dnc.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:13 EST 1996
Article: 43387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!wetware!news.tbcnet.com!news.structured.net!usenet
From: Bill Neely <billn@dnc.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: using motor as a generator
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 01:48:14 +0000
Organization: Structured Network Systems, Inc.
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <32AB6FDE.71D2@dnc.net>
References: <19961124013300.UAA07061@ladder01.news.aol.com> <E1Mnn3.16v@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <E1pKxI.FMs@kepler-eng.com> <E1vwro.BCp@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <E24tCr.1r3@kepler-eng.com>
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Have you thought about burying it in a piece of pvc conduit? Out and 
down then up and in.  A little more expensive and a lot more work than 
cable through the attic but possibly do-able.
Good luck. Bill


From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:04:14 EST 1996
Article: 43388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!wits.uni.net.za!ru.uni.net.za!und.uni.net.za!und.ac.za!iafrica.com!pipex-sa.net!bowl.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!NewsWatcher!user
From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photo-etching brass
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 10:07:37 +0000
Organization: BTL
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <ncliffe-0912961007370001@132.146.65.223>
References: <588g9h$c2p@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In article <588g9h$c2p@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au>,
lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au (Lachie) wrote:

> Would anyone be able to offer advice on photo-etching brass sheet for 
> model making? I want to produce HO scale carriage sides, preferably using 
> this technique, and using AutoCAD to produce the masks.
> 
> Any advice on reagents, mask design, limitations of the process (or 
> alternatives) or even on reference books would be appreciated.

Article on the 2mm Scale Association Web site:
http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/
and follow the links,

or, if you'd rather pay someone else to make the bits for you, Bill
Bedford does it commercially:
billb@mousa.demon.co.uk


- Nigel

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From Tony.Midea@moa.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:15 EST 1996
Article: 43389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chaos.crhc.uiuc.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!ppp-pm01-dy-12.ouhub.moa.net
From: Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Squeeling
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 06:09:09 -0800
Organization: RO Schools
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Hi all,
I saw a post here about  parting tools and skreeching (excessive noise 
when cutting). I have experienced this in only one situation, That is 
when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tubeof length 
that requires a steady rest. I am pretty sure that I am lined up on 
center but is this noise something that I should be concerned with?
Will  it damage my machine?, cutting tools? The groove gets cut but it 
sure hurts  me in more ways than one while doing it. Would excessive 
runout cause this I am at about 600 rpm 6061 t-6 aluminum extruded 
tubing. 
This leads me to my next question-

Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
application?

Any help would be great.
Thanks

Tony
 tony.midea@moa.net


From clem@altinet.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:17 EST 1996
Article: 43390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <32A859B4.5837@altinet.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 17:36:56 +0000
From: Clem Jensen <clem@altinet.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon Lathe - Help
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Years back I received a parts list from Sheldon Machine Co. at 4258
North Knox Ave, Chicago ILL 60641. I think they are still around.


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:04:18 EST 1996
Article: 43391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!oitnews.harvard.edu!das-news2.harvard.edu!cam-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 7 Dec 1996 15:50:37 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <58clat$8r4@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <32a51bde.1964092@news.sprynet.com> <582re9$3hc@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <589pau$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <589pau$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>Paul Amaranth (paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com) wrote:
>
>
>In metalworking Book 2.
>
>
>: None of these require any castings, although some do require welding.
>
>The first table does, though I think the second doesn't.  I suspect you
>could work around the welding requirements for the first table if you
>did a good job at setting it up to bolt together.
>

Nah, the base for the second one is made up of 5 pieces of 3/8 steel 
plate welded together.  I agree that you could probably get around the
welding for both of them if you were reasonably careful.

The 'rocking, swinging grinder table' (the 'first table mentioned above')
is high on my list of projects to do once I get caught up a bit ('98?  '99?)


-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:04:19 EST 1996
Article: 43392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!oitnews.harvard.edu!das-news2.harvard.edu!cam-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NAMES and the Internet
Date: 7 Dec 1996 16:11:30 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <58cmi2$8u0@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <ginger.581.0023E9F1@pcm.ultranet.com> <32ae6ad5.2759845@news.sprynet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

On Fri, 6 Dec 1996 16:30:35 LOCAL, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron
Ginger) wrote:

>Any of you that were at NAMES (North AmericanModel Enigneer Show) last year 
>may recall that we had a seminar session each day called Metalworking and the 
>Internet.
>
>I have been asked by the organizers to do it again, and hapily agreeded.
>
>Now I have started thinking about how we could put the NAMES show 'on the net' 
>I know some other events have made a 'live' event on the web, but I have never 
>paid much attention to the details.

The typical way is run it on the MBONE through somebody's reflector
somewhere and anybody with, say, CUSEEME software would be able to tune
in.  That's what NASA does.  Or you could make an audio recording
available on one of the web sites.

Format and software compatibility issues are the big problems.


-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:21 EST 1996
Article: 43393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: LETS TAKE A VOTE
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 12:34:49 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <32AAFC39.2D9F@ix.netcom.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32a96d4e.26478034@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
> Logan) writes:
> 
> >I just wanted to make everyone aware of a used machinery dealer with
> >whom I have had very good experiences.
> >
> >Andy Popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com> has supplied me with a 24" Master
> >Vernier Caliper, and now an Aloris AXA Tool Post Set.  He has provided
> >tools in EXCELLENT condition, and at very good prices.  I can now
> >wholeheartedly endorse him to anyone who is looking for tools.
> >
> >
> 
> Hey Scott, shOuldN't thIs be In
> 
> alt.crafts.metalworking.sycophants
> 
> As to Andy and Caps. I suspect he types with two fingers, holding the Caps
> key would effectively halve his speed. Come to think of it, not a bad
> idea, that means we would only get half as many posts from him. 



lets take a vote   please pick one of the following

less posts from andy
the same amount of posts from andy
more posts from andy
banish him to   alt.crafts.metalworking.sycophants 
no opinion


please email your vote and i will post the results next week
only one vote per person


From hook@usit.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:22 EST 1996
Article: 43394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!news.ums.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!news.he.net!viper.inow.com!news1.aplatform.com!ns2.mainstreet.net!bug.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!hustle.rahul.net!rahul.net!a2i!news.clark.net!news.usit.net!news
From: hook@usit.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RE: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 01:03:23 GMT
Organization: United States Internet, Inc.
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net>
Reply-To: hook@usit.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: pulaski-slip11.dynamic.usit.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net



From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:23 EST 1996
Article: 43395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!thorn.engr.sgi.com!glowell
From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 05:51:22 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <58dl0q$h3d@fido.asd.sgi.com>
References: <58b42h$j1$1@metro.atlanta.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: thorn.engr.sgi.com

In article <58b42h$j1$1@metro.atlanta.com>, Tom Burns  <Tom@Atlanta.com> wrote:
>I'm looking at a 9" southbend lathe that appears to be in good 
>condition, with 3 jaws (two) and four jaw and faceplate. Any opinins on 
>what I should offer for this machine?...Tom
>

I can offer a couple data points.  I missed a clean 9" SB for $500
just recently, and two weeks ago I bought a 9" SB Model C at an
estate sale for $400.  The machine that I bought needs a bit of clean
up, but the spindle turned freely, and I didn't see any light under
a straitedge place on the ways.

Both machines included faceplate, three chucks, and a set
of change gears.  I occasionally see them advertised much higher
but that might be due to having quick change gears or power feed.

Cheers,
Gary


From timtroyr@ionet.net__read sig before replying Tue Dec 17 14:04:24 EST 1996
Article: 43396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: timtroyr@ionet.net__read sig before replying (Tim Robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 96 05:05:37 GMT
Organization: Me
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In article <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>,
   zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:
>If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

You don't save people by irritating the Hell out of them.


| Tim Robinson                   | Lonely Web page.  Please visit.   |
| timtroyr@ionet.net             | http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr    |
| "The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by |
| men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding."  L. Brandeis |

Sorry about the bogus e-mail address.  I get too much e-mail spam.
Just use the one in the sig.  Brewers, check out
http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr/beer


From gemcutter@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:25 EST 1996
Article: 43397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:25:20 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In article <586enl$781@news-e2d.gnn.com>, toby@Horton-Brasses.com writes:
> >
> > >Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves
> > >makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Sounds like a job for CNC-EDM
> >
> > Peter
> 
> peter
> 
> you need to get with the times<w>
> this is a job Laser CNC
> 
> maybe if you watched the Discovery channel
> you would learn about these things<w>
> 
> edm would be to slow
> 
> regards,
> andy popkyabrasive water jet could also be used


From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:27 EST 1996
Article: 43398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knorrostol Review
Date: 8 Dec 1996 06:07:45 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <58dlvh$49p@fido.asd.sgi.com>
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In article <19961207010100.UAA02931@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
 <teamhail@aol.com> wrote:
>I don't recall a list of ingredients, but I its at work so I can't check
>til Monday.  If its on sale, go get a tube, you won't be sorry.  It worked
>way better than I thought it would.  I think I payed $10 for the tube,
>ought to last awhile unless you got lots of rust.  Don't put too much on,
>start with a little dab.
>
>I don't think there's anything terrebly toxic in it, but I wouldn't
>recommend eating it.  I don't work for SPI, I'm just real pleased with
>this product.
>
>Paul

I was just curious if the active ingrediant was phosphoric acid, or
something different.  Turns out the local SPI distributor isn't
a stocking distributor and would have to order it.  Anybody know
of a source in the SF Bay Area ?

In the meantime I'm experimenting with the reverse electrolysis 
process that someone here recomended.

Cheers,
Gary Lowell
glowell@engr.sgi.com


From rwdaniel@memphisonline.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:28 EST 1996
Article: 43399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randalldaniels <rwdaniel@memphisonline.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:24:41 -0500
Organization: Southern On-Line Systems
Lines: 2
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		<585ker$4h6@news.bctel.net> <kmdtUsa00iV90HHtJY@andrew.cmu.edu> <589cgk$c1m@herald.concentric.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:43399 rec.autos.tech:208182

I agree with the beer theory, besides, drinking beer and doing brakes
compliment each other well.


From coyotegj@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:29 EST 1996
Article: 43400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: coyotegj@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: want to buy South Bend Heavy 10 Lathe with long bed
Date: 3 Dec 1996 05:54:30 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I would like to buy a South Bend Heavy 10" lathe with long bed in
excellent to mint condition. I would prefer the  D 1-4  cam lok spindle.
Phone number is 817 569-4555.  Also, if the fellow from Canada who was
looking for a Heavy 10 also would call, I know of one with a short bed
located in Minnesota.  Thanks


From gemcutter@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:30 EST 1996
Article: 43401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:57:15 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <58do8k$nmt@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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To: Jens <psh@islandnet.com>

Jens wrote:
> 
> alevy01@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >
> >     When to use a two flute end mill, and when to use a four flute end
> >mill ?
> 
> Two flute is used when cutting a slot or when plunge cutting
> 4 flute gives a better finish or faster cut due to the extra edges but
> has problems in a slot/plunge situations (works but you got to watch
> it)
> 
> When cutting soft material you might be better off with 2 flutes as a
> 4 flute might clog up (smaller chip clearance spaces)
> 
> JensJen is correct. Just a note: 2 flute endmills are center cutting, most 4 
flute endmills are not unless they are made especially for center 
cutting


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:31 EST 1996
Article: 43402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEEDED: home shop construction tips
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 07:00:10 GMT
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Lines: 29
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brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

<SNIPed good stuff>


>I like pegboard on walls for light tools.  For heavier stuff, I use
>1/2" ply and nails.  For really heavy stuff, I'll do shelf units and tie
>them to the walls.  (I live in earthquake country.)

So do I.  I have curio cabinets in the house tied to the
wall by lagscrews and heavy metal brackets.  The mill is
fastened down with 4 inch lead sheathed anchors.  I built my
lathe stands so they can be tied to the floor with self
drilling anchors and 1/2" bolts.  There is nothing heavy on
the shelves over the lathes - all the heavy stuff is down
low.  I don't keep volitle flammable liquids in the house
anyplace with the exception of a can of kerosene like
solvent.  My extra oxygen tank  not in rigidly bolted metal
bracket is chained to the wall.  

My extra can of Diesel for the tractor and gas for the
welder is stored outside.

<SNIPed more good stuff>

Fitch





From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:33 EST 1996
Article: 43403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I'm BAAAACKKKKK!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:46:15 -0500
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <32AA6437.4C44@bellsouth.net>
References: <32AA4BA7.B57@hre.com>
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Jim Harvey wrote:
> 
> Well after a mind numbing couple of days attempting to restore a full
> year's worth of information ( I'm a computer Savant, therefore I don't
> ever back up anything! - ) I seem to be back online. Albeit a little
> worse for wear, and not using any of my old familiar applications.
> 
> As for the WISE GUYS who have had me INUNDATED with requests for 50% -
> 60% and MORE off the list price of SHERLINE equipment ( You know who you
> are!) You'll all get yours! Especially from the guy who called me long
> distance from Singapore to make his order!
> I am in the process of devising a suitably fiendish plot to get you
> scalawags and teach you not to prank an aging member of the metalworking
> community!. WAIT AND SEE!
> 
> Special thanks to Dave at MERIDIAN for posting for me.
> 
> In light of the fact that I was unable to answer many requests for
> information ( I had over 200 email messages when I returned - I'll get
> to every one of them, but not all at once! ) I am EXTENDING the SHERLINE
> SALE to JANUARY 5th. ALL SHERLINE equipment will be on sale for 15% off
> list. Credit Cards are welcome. ( Visa / Mastercard )
> 
> Now, all I can hope is that this message gets posted!
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Jim Harvey
> jim@hre.com
> http://hre.com

Whew!  I see "I'm Baaaaackkkkk!" and for the split second before I
noticed who it was I thought "Oh #@$%, not that Atvz guy again!  I sure
am glad it is just you, Jim.

Brain


From gemcutter@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:34 EST 1996
Article: 43404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: H.S. Drillpress/ drilling thin stock
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 02:08:33 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <58doto$nmt@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In article <586enl$781@news-e2d.gnn.com>, toby@Horton-Brasses.com writes:
> >
> > >Cannot use a punch, it's been tried, but the nature of the curves
> > >makes it nearly impossible not to crush or change the complex curves.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Sounds like a job for CNC-EDM
> >
> > Peter
> 
> peter
> 
> you need to get with the times<w>
> this is a job Laser CNC
> 
> maybe if you watched the Discovery channel
> you would learn about these things<w>
> 
> edm would be to slow
> 
> regards,
> andy popky

Abrasive water jet could also be a solution


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:35 EST 1996
Article: 43405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" Headstock
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:03:05 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32AA6829.513B@worldnet.att.net>
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To: sissonp@wamusa.com

Phil Sisson wrote:
> 
> We have an Atlas 10 F lathe. Its babbitt headstock bearings are shot.
> Does anyone know who can re-pour and bore these for a reasonable price
> or is Timken bearings the only way out? What will conversion to Timkens
> cost?
> 
> Phil Sisson    Litchfield, ILL.   Thanks a lot for any help.......

 Might be just as easy to replace headstock with a timken model,don't
think it would be a difficult swap,as the castings were nearly
identical,just beefier arond the bearings.
 Check with Pete and Norm at:P.K.E./Paramount Machinery
http://www.cris.com/~pmcpke/
Just got some parts from them for my 12"Atlas,Pete talked like they had
a pretty good supply of Atlas 10F stuff.
 The parts I recieved were excellent and a reasonable price.
One note,Pete will refuse to send you a part that has not been
sand-blasted clean,inspected and repainted,seems he has a fear of
sending you a bad part! I even told him I didn't care if they weren't
cleaned,as I was cleaning everything anyway,NOTHING DOING!
 What does this tell you? Tells me I will go back asap.
Hope this helps,
Tom


From mjn@HiWAAY.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:36 EST 1996
Article: 43406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 8 Dec 1996 02:45:04 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
Lines: 29
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <58da3g$kje@parlor.hiwaay.net>
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In article <58c1lk$bl5@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>, cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com 
says...
>
>In article <32A978B0.24BA@silcom.com>, Elliot Burke  <elliot@hitide.com> 
wrote:
>>Chuck Sherwood wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>>> 
>>> These are my thoughts.  I think that electric is the safest. No possible
>>
>>> 
>>Take apart an old coffee maker.  Inside is an electric heater with coils
>>for water that will make low pressure steam very nicely.  If you want to
>>dry the steam, use two of them.
>>
>>Maybe you could use the exhaust from your engine to make coffee?
>
>Interesting idea. Would have to keep the steam oil out of the coffee though.
>Or we could use castor oil and mix brandy with it to counter its affects.
>(from the radial engine thread) :)

In the same vein, I have used a cappucino frother as a boiler for a small 
engine.  (This is a DODI, built from plans in Modeltec.)  It has safety valves, 
and can be run on the stove.  I cut off the nozzle, and extended it with some 
silicone tubing I got from somewhere.  It seems to make about 10 PSI.

Does that make it a Cappucino Choo Choo?



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:37 EST 1996
Article: 43407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 11:20:00 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32abbf18.269970930@news.islandnet.com>
References: <32A7232F.1DA@pobox.com> <587d1v$egt@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32a9dcf1.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <ldick-0712962023230001@phila108-pri.voicenet.com>
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ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson) wrote:

>Using carbide for parting on a conventional engine lathe is not a good idea.
>Even with a rigid, close to the chuck set up, You will not be able to 
>run sufficient surface speed (usually 300sfm or higher) to satisfy carbide
>tooling's
>cutting requirement. This is especially true as the od reduces. NC machines
>part with carbide by using constant surface speed.

Yup, I can second that opinion based on trying to face workpieces with
carbide.
It's most annoying when you get a mirror like finish and at about one
inch in diameter you get tearing of the metal (HRS). It doesn't matter
what speed you go at ... start position of the tears will change but
it will always be there.
Having said that,carbide should still work for cutoff  (not tried it)
except for the poor surface finish at the end ... and I get that with
HSS anyway.

Jens 


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:04:38 EST 1996
Article: 43409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Atlas 10" Headstock
Date: 8 Dec 1996 07:05:18 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Phil Sisson (sissonp@wamusa.com) wrote:
: We have an Atlas 10 F lathe. Its babbitt headstock bearings are shot.
: Does anyone know who can re-pour and bore these for a reasonable price
: or is Timken bearings the only way out? What will conversion to Timkens
: cost?

I got a 'used - servicable' Timken headstock from Dave Sobel for $175
plus shipping.  I pretty mich expected to replace the bearings, but since
one of them had some corrosion on one race, I definitely needed to change
them.  I think it cost just over $40 to get all new races and roller
assemblies from the local bearing distributor.  I had to call twice,
because as I got the thing apart, I discovered the outer races have a 
different part number from the inner, so you need to order 4 parts, total.
You can get a 'remanufactured' headstock from J. C. Boegeman for $250,
but he will request your cone pulley from the existing lathe.  I didn't
want to be down for 2 weeks, so I went with Sobel.  I am totally satisfied
with the improvement by getting rid of the babbit bearings.  (I also get
a complete headstock that I can convert into a dividing head.)

The babbit can be repoured, and I've heard of some amazing techniques.
I've been told to use a torch or candle to smoke the journal areas of
the spindle, and then pour the babbit into the bearing with the spindle
in it.  The smoke gives bearing clearance and acts as a release agent!
I was still VERY leery of trying to do this and keep the spindle in
proper alignment, so I went with the Timken swap.

Anyway, I think if you go the Timken route, you will be very happy with
the results.  I tinkered with my babbit bearings for over 10 years, and
put up with LOTS of grief.  I should have done this 10 years ago!



From rbanksto@whale.st.usm.edu Tue Dec 17 14:04:39 EST 1996
Article: 43410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbanksto@whale.st.usm.edu (Robert Ofarrell Bankston)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HELP, what are good steels for Damascus?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 02:32:12 GMT
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi
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I've got a problem.  I'm interested in forging Damascus/pattern welded
blades but I am having lots of trouble acquiring good steels locally.  I
checked with the local foundry for stuff like 1095, W1, etc. but they said
that all of that was special order stuff and would incur extra charges. 
So it looks like I'm going to have to use recycled materials.  I need some
steels which fit into these 3 categories:

1.  Relatively available from recycled materials. I don't want to have to
    search over half the state for the stuff.
2.  Yield a halfway decent contrast for the pattern
3.  Not be overly difficult for the novice to forge.  

Also the blade I'm constructing will NOT be functional but is to be
constructed entirely for its appearance.  Anyone got any suggestions?  Thanks.

Rob
rbanksto@whale.st.usm.edu



From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:41 EST 1996
Article: 43411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 7 Dec 1996 06:00:13 GMT
Organization: AT&T Network Wireless Systems Business Unit
Lines: 29
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <58b15d$a83@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
References: <5879ji$spr@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <babcock.58.005AEFF5@infi.net> <5887op$272@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <849915470snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
Reply-To: casherwood@lucent.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

In article <849915470snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk>,
Paul C. Dickie <pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <5887op$272@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
>           casherwood@lucent.com "Chuck Sherwood" writes:
>
>>
>>>Sounds like a lot of work.  Why not just get the boiler kit from PM research.
>>>Tom
>>
>>Well, building the PM boiler is a lot of work too. It has flues which may
>>make it more work. It also uses tables for fuel which are not cheap.
>                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>Couldn't one burn old chair legs, railway ties or whatever lumber is to hand?
>
>That'd be cheaper...

Opps sorry for the typo. That should be tablets. "little white things that
you hold a match to and hopefully they start burning before the match burns
your fingers" I have not used any for over 20 years, so what do I know..

I think your followup was quite funny. :) Im still grinning. :)
chuck sherwood


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:42 EST 1996
Article: 43412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 12:31:46 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32b004b1.1546015@news.sprynet.com>
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On 8 Dec 1996 17:10:22 GMT, pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>Hey Scott, shOuldN't thIs be In 
>
>alt.crafts.metalworking.sycophants

Boy, am I sorry I mentioned this!  I enjoy Andy's posts, and hope he
will continue.

>Peter
>Who can unequivocally endorse Dave Ficken as a dealer to trust. Hands up
>all those MDNA dealers???

According to the 1997 MDNA Buyers Guide, Marshall Machinery (Andy
Popky's outfit) IS an MDNA member.  In fact, he is the only dealer I
can recall hearing mentioned in this group, who I can find in the
directory.  I MAY BE WRONG, AND WILL GLADLY LOOK UP ANY DEALER YOU
CARE TO MENTION.  I do NOT wish to cast aspersions on anyone.  Many of
the dealers I would recommend are not MDNA members.


Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From acarey@pinn.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:43 EST 1996
Article: 43413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!pa2dsp23.orf.infi.net!user
From: acarey@pinn.net (Anne Carey)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:53:39 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <acarey-0912961008150001@pa2dsp23.orf.infi.net>
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In article <32AAECAB.4EFC@ipass.net>, stardust@ipass.net wrote:

> No offense meant but most people who have access to a computer have
> access to both a Bible (there are such areas online even) and a church..
> posting this sort of message on every base is spamming.. and one massage
                                                               ~~~~~~~~~~~
> from you will NOT save my soul..last I heard that was between a person
> and God..

I don't know...depends on how good the massage is.... :D

Annie


From bendror@netvision.net.il Tue Dec 17 14:04:44 EST 1996
Article: 43414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-penn.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.NetVision.net.il!news
From: Dorit <bendror@netvision.net.il>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Turtle Page
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 15:36:34 +0200
Organization: NetVision LTD.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32AC15E2.12A5@netvision.net.il>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)

-
Draw me a Turtle
|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/


hello :)

I'm working on creating a Turtle Page - an electronic Turtle Exhibition.

If you're interested to exhibit your work / to have your home page
marked at 
this project, please send me a scanned turtle work (or made by
computer).
mailto: dorit<golanz@shani.net>

If you cannot scan your work, please reply and i'll write you my address


--                                       ___
Regards,                            ,,  // \\
DoRiT                              (_,\/ \_/ \
                                     \ \_/_\_/>
|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/|\|/ /_/  /_/

"Behold the turtle: He makes progress only when he sticks his neck out." 
(-James Bryant Conant)


From tonyd@spec.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:45 EST 1996
Article: 43415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!demos!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!winternet.com!washington.Capitol.Net!ns2.specdata.com!news2.dn.net!usenet
From: tony <tonyd@spec.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:10:21 -0500
Organization: digitalNation
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32A8B5ED.5134@spec.net>
References: <01bbe0b8$3fc4ffa0$5e263ece@radix.wwnet.com> <582hmp$hfp@newshost.netrix.com> <32A5A521.27B5@cc.com>
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Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> Bruce Holder wrote:
> >
> > w.j.ward (radix@wwnet.com) wrote:
> > : I would like to cut left-hand threads on my little Taiwanese lathe, but I
> > : have to reverse the feed screw.  I think I could do that rather easily, but
> > : I would need to obtain one of the change gear bearings.  This is a keyed
> > : bushing of about 1cm in diameter.  I don't know how to machine such a part,
> > : since the key protrudes out from the bushing.  It must have been molded.
> > : Has anyone else been able to get these parts?
> 

Gee, an incapable taiwan special? How could that be?
The way some guys rave about their Orient express bargins. You shouldn't have this
problem. Molded parts? Oh, I guess that idler gear to reverse
the lead screw was an option the dealer/importer/freight fowarder didn't tell you about.
did tell you about.

Somehow I've never had this problem on a S/Bend or Logan.
<Sarcasm mode ended>
Why not try running the spindle in reverse and threading with the tool upside down?
Does the lathe have the reverse option?


From AAFRadio@erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:47 EST 1996
Article: 43416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ennfs.eas.asu.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news
From: Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 10:13:00 -0800
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961208203914.21647A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca>
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If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump 
sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from 
it any day of the week (unless you have a racing engine.)  All you need 
is a long hose and a way to get to the intake manifold.  I've used it for 
everything from evacuating A/C systems to "debubbling" epoxy and it seems 
to work just fine.  Maybe not ideal, but it's cheap!



From sbard@richmond.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:48 EST 1996
Article: 43417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: steven bard <sbard@richmond.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Myford ML7 FOR SALE
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 09:14:33 -0800
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <32AC48F9.30E4@richmond.infi.net>
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Greetings:
I have the following Myford ML7 lathe and accesrories for sale for
$2500.  All are in nearly new condition, with some compnoents having
never been used and still in the original box.  This lathe was owned by
my late father in law and I am helping to liquidate his estate.  It was
part of a home shop but was hardly used and probably has less than 10
hours on it.  It was purchased directly from Myford in 1977.  I have
copies of the original brochure and current color photo's available for
anyone who is seriously interested in the package.  The lathe is located
in Raleigh, North Carolina, and crating and shipping would be at the
buyers expense.  I live in Richmond, VA and will be in Raleigh for
Christmas week and would be glad to show the machine.  I can also
arrange to be there at other mutually convenient times.

Contents:  Myford ML7 3 1/2 x 20" lathe with all standard equipment,
steel drip tray, 4" 3 jaw chuck, 6" 4 jaw chuck, set of 12 quick setting
3/8" lathe tools, 1/2" lathe carrier, set of 4 faceplate clamps 2 1/2",
drill chuck with #2 M.T. shank, 5 collets 1/16-1/2", nose piece, collet
closing tube, leadscrew handwheel and pointer, swiveling vertical vise
(milling vise). A Craftsman motor and Square D reversing switch are
installed.

This is a belt drive machine that does not have quick change gears or
power cross feed.

Included with the machine are associated miscelaneous tooling, guages
and stock.

Contact:
Steven Bard
sbard@richmond.infi.net
804-288-6860 home
804 222-2607 work


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:49 EST 1996
Article: 43418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HSM articles on wheellock gun locks
Date: 9 Dec 1996 14:32:52 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <01bbe5dc$571b66c0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.0.31.227
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Some time back, before my ISP dropped the link, I saw a passing ref to
wheellock and flintlock(?) locks. Not wishing to reinvent the wheel, and
singularly unlucky in finding HSM address to subscribe, (compooter
ilittearate) would someone take a moment to clue me in on where to order
the mag? {Clueless in St. Louis} Les Whitaker hoofe@intecnet.net. Thank
you, and thanks to the guys who told me about the dropped link.



From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:50 EST 1996
Article: 43419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news.he.net!news.tdl.com!news.zeitgeist.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp100-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:41:22 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <alshinn-0212962241220001@ppp100-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp100-sf2.sirius.com
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net>,
pilecki@interport.net wrote:

> hello- 
> Just wondering if anyone in this ng could advise me about a project I am
> working on.  Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
> metal surface - specifically nikle silver. I highly doubt whether I could
> use photographic developing techniques as there is no "tooth" for it to
> grab onto. An apperance of a photographic image on the surface of the
> metal is what I am aiming for regardless of the process. Any ideas?. Any
> feedback would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> carol
> 
> pilecki@interport.net

You will need some photoresist (a plastic sort of stuff that changes
solubility upon exposure to strong light) and a transparency that is in
the form of a half tone (like a newspaper picture ,ie made of dots of
differing sizes. You can have a half tone made at printing type
photography services and the resist can be as primitive as dichromated
asphalt to as modern as the stuff used for printed circuits (probably the
easiest to find).

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Tue Dec 17 14:04:52 EST 1996
Article: 43420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!news.dra.com!newsfeeder.gi.net!tin.monsanto.com!usenet
From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 14:42:08 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <58h8g0$obs@tin.monsanto.com>
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: plalbrecht@aol.com

plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:
>What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? 
>
>Pete


I paid $400 locally for a 7 inch Atlas including stand but missing the vice and 
one of the two miter gears which position the stroke. Aside from the gear problem, I 
would describe it as in ok (but not great) shape.

Roger Weppelman




From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:53 EST 1996
Article: 43421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!mr.net!data.ramona.vix.com!news1.digital.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news.he.net!news.tdl.com!news.zeitgeist.net!sun.sirius.com!ppp100-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:43:50 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <alshinn-0212962243500001@ppp100-sf2.sirius.com>
References: <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp100-sf2.sirius.com
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

In article <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net>,
pilecki@interport.net wrote:

> hello- 
> Just wondering if anyone in this ng could advise me about a project I am
> working on.  Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
> metal surface - specifically nikle silver. I highly doubt whether I could
> use photographic developing techniques as there is no "tooth" for it to
> grab onto. An apperance of a photographic image on the surface of the
> metal is what I am aiming for regardless of the process. Any ideas?. Any
> feedback would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> carol
> 
> pilecki@interport.net

Carol:
I forgot to mention the acid to "bite" the metal. I have not tried nickle
silver but I would first try ferric chloride --again from printed circuit
processes.

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:04:56 EST 1996
Article: 43422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TO ANDY POPKY
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 05:13:54 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <58diqd$vkr@nw101.infi.net>
References: <01bbe4a5$790db9a0$6b02b8cd@gabe>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pa5dsp1.orf.infi.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

"Malachi Constant" <tool@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Hey Andy, whoever you are, alot of people are e-mailing me and asking for
>you!  My e-mail is tool@ix.netcom.com, yours isn't so why do some of your
>postings say that it is?

Andy's address is < MACHTool@ix.netcom.com>  ....so its says on my end



From eric38@wharton.upenn.edu Tue Dec 17 14:04:57 EST 1996
Article: 43423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news
From: eric38@wharton.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 04:56:13 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32aa4a5d.24228849@netnews.upenn.edu>
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On Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:12:27 GMT, zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul)
wrote:

>If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

I found God in a bottle of homebrew.


From Tom@Atlanta.com Tue Dec 17 14:04:59 EST 1996
Article: 43424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Burns <Tom@Atlanta.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 06:49:53 GMT
Organization: Freelancin' Fool
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I'm looking at a 9" southbend lathe that appears to be in good 
condition, with 3 jaws (two) and four jaw and faceplate. Any opinins on 
what I should offer for this machine?...Tom




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:00 EST 1996
Article: 43425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 3 Dec 1996 07:24:45 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <jesw-0212961418300001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
(James Wilkins) writes:

>I can run an old Sears sandblasting gun at 50 PSI all day with this
setup:
>
>

Using 50lbs does not cut it when bead blasting aluminum. The beads are
round and are not intended to remove metal. I have toi use 90psi otherwise
it takes forever to do large surfaces evenly. At 90psi my compressor runs
out of puff very quickly.

I am not sure I like the idea of increasing the pully size until the
overload kicks out. It sounds a little too heavy duty for me. As it is the
compressor runs continuously. I can bead for about 10 minutes before the
pressure drops to about 50lbs then I wait until it cycles off again before
starting the process again.

My soultion has been to order another compressor.

Given some time I will try the bigger pullety idea and see what extra I
can eek out of the existing system. My problem in this instance was never
pressure but cfm.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:01 EST 1996
Article: 43426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: 3 Dec 1996 07:24:47 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.14)
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In article <32a2dabf.5618352@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>I can attest to this being standard practice.  We often have parts
>quoted or fabricated on the outside, and, without exception, the
>supplier will always add for special tooling and will not return said
>tooling.  BUT, when or if they get a repeat job, there is no tooling
>charge.
>
>In other words, no, Jim ain't ripping anyone off.
>
>

Aw chucks Scott, I had a smiley after the comment.

Peter
Why does everyone always hate me? 

Wait, wait, wait, it's a joke guys!


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:02 EST 1996
Article: 43427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: 3 Dec 1996 07:24:49 GMT
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In article <01bbe0a4$6ebf26a0$5f0135cf@ray-abadie>, "Ray F. Abadie"
<rabadie@bellsouth.net> writes:

>Peter, your attack of Ah-Ha and repeated use of misinformation such as 3K
>to retrofit a Sherline when that price is for a bigger machine was of
some
>concern. Many beginners come here looking for answers and are likely to
>regard posts as containing true information. I confronted Richard with
your
>accusations and got a lengthy reply with the facts as they saw them.
>
>

Not so Ray, as far as I can recall my posts *do* contain true information
but let me run some figures just for my own edification.

6 amp controller with two axis included: $1530
Extra axis controller: $367
3 *surplus* motors at $75 each = $225
*Lowest cost* Software: $549
Sherline mounting kit: $335
That *totals* $3006 right out of their catalog and that does not include
shipping and handling or *new* motors.

I could have used the price of the Artisan software and added another
$446. The surplus motors would be marginal at at 100oz-in and I would opt
for 150s and that would add another $20 per motor. Consider also that
AhHa's surplus motors only have a 90 day warranty too.

Without getting into the merits or otherwise of the software,
MicroKinetics offer this same end-result package for $999. Admittedly the
AhHa system *could* be later used on a bigger mill by scrapping the
mounting kit and the motors (lose $560 and then add another $1110 for
650oz-in motors+$480 for the mounting kits for *two* axis) but that is the
minimum configuration to retrofit a Sherline by AhHa. By saying $3K, you
can see that I was *actually* being conservative. So perhaps you are right
my post did contain an untruth, I am sorry I should have said $3.06K <w>

As I said in my last post that there is a danger in commenting on things
you only *think* you know something about. There is nothing misleading to
anyone in the above figures unless I have been given a special price list
by AhHa! Perhaps another e-mail to Richard may explain this for us both.

Peter
Whose calculator still makes 2+2= 1.99999999


From rhys@wam.umd.edu Tue Dec 17 14:05:03 EST 1996
Article: 43428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rhys@wam.umd.edu (Aubrey Philip Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 06:54:15 GMT
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I was curious about people's favorite places to order their tools. I
have the following:

MSC 18006457270
Wholesale Tool
Enco
New England Brass and Tool
Blue Ridge

I have heard of McMasters but I don't have their number. Could someone
please post it as well as any other good sources?

Thanks,



A. Philip Williams TIP#646 VOG#001
rhys@wam.umd.edu
Team GENU



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:04 EST 1996
Article: 43429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:11:18 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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Rick Cook wrote:
> 
> bohigas wrote:
> >Dear fellow friend:
> >For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
> >Thank You.
> >Alberto
> >from London
> >
> An astrolabe is a primitive navigation instrument designed to measure the
> height of a star above the horizon, 


Astrolabes are not primitive at all, but rather very sophisticated astronomical devices 
capable of solving many astronomical problems.  The typical astrolabe was not a 
navigational instrument although an instrument called the mariner's astrolabe was 
used widely.

Astrolabes were used to tell time during the day or night, to find the time of sunrise 
and sunset and, thus, the length of the day, to locate celestial objects in the sky, 
and as a handy reference of celestial positions.  To name just a few of it's many uses. 

Islamic prayer times are astronomically determined, and the astrolabe could be used
to determine the required times. Modern astrolabes, such as the Personal Astrolabe, can 
be used to solve astronomy problems involving sidereal time and can be used with modern 
civil time.

I own to books on the subject

"The Planispheric Astrolabe"

Published by The Department of Navigation and Astronomy
National Maritime Museum, Greenwich

"Chaucer on the Astrolabe" with original illustrations

Revised from the 1931 Oxford Edition by R.T. Gunther
Published by Norman Green in 1977

This is a treatise on the Astrolabe which Chaucer wrote to explain the use of the device 
to his 10 year old son Lewis.  The entire text of this treatise is available online in 
Middle English (without illustrations) at http://www4.torget.se/artbin/art/oastro.html 
If you are not well versed in Middle English, you won't even get through the first 
paragraph though.

The astrolabe described in the Chaucer book that I have, used to be made by a local Bay 
Area company.  Greene Designs, PO Box 8451, Emeryville, CA 94662.  I do not know if they 
are still in business.  It wasn't a particularly precise instrument and rather crudely 
made of cast pewter, but it was a good device to teach the uses of the instrument.

There are a great number of Web sites (972) devoted to astrolabes and I suggest that you 
use the Yahoo or Infoseek search engines, to name just a couple, to find them.  
Cyberspace is a great place to hang out and find stuff, but you have to be willing to 
use your head and keyboard a little.  INFORMATION SUPER HIGHWAY ... remember that 
terrible phrase?

Just one site to get you started though:  
http://myhouse.com/mc/planet/astrodir/astrolab.htm

I tried to make an astrolabe once.  I failed miserably.  I did not possess the proper 
tools to lay out, scribe and engrave certain arcs accurately.  The makers of Islamic 
astrolabes of the 8th and 9th centuries AD did.  Not only did they have the tools, they 
also had the neccessary skills.  And a quite remarkable knowledge of astronomy.

To call astrolabes PRIMITIVE is an insult to the inventors and makers of these fine and 
precise instruments (the original astronomical computer), and displays a rather pathetic 
lack of knowledge about the subject.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From gtbutts@infinet.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:05 EST 1996
Article: 43430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gtbutts@infinet.com (George Butts)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 15:07:06 GMT
Organization: -.-
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I don't think you want MUCH vacuum for this purpose.  I use the back end of an 
old paint sprayer, the intake side.  The "tank" is the bottom and gasket from 
a Nesco pressure cooker.

This cooker is the type which has a domed top with a little "spigot" on which 
you place a round weight.  In regular use the weight jiggles when up to 
pressure.  The little spigot is perfect to slip on the vacuum hose.

Immediately, I saw the casting syrup was viscous enough that the air was slow 
to release and foamed up all over the tank... so I replaced the (metal)regular 
lid with a 1/2in thick square of Lexan plastic.  Lexan can be drilled and 
tapped nicely.  Thru this new lid, I installed a standard lab gas-cock as an 
exhaust fitting for the vacuum hose.  Then, I could see what was happening 
inside.  Promptly, I saw the "fix" for the frothing was to put another lab 
gas-cock to let me moderate the pressure.  Then, I saw the air feeding in the 
second opening impinged on the syrup which, in my work, was VERY helpful to 
break the rising foam.  I could also insert a few drops of surface foam 
breaker in stubborn cases thru this intake port.

If you can't watch the process and moderate the foam-up problem, you risk 
damage to pulling some of the froth into the vacuum system...  not too swell!
Cost?  Lexan is not cheap.  Nesco cooker with gasket is "free" from our 
kitchen when I can get it out from under certain watchful eyes.  The paint 
sprayer is from (about) 1955 and very useful for small pressure work (up to 
30lbs) in our shop.  Now it's useful for vacuum work also, but that's not it's 
proper use and I don't know how newer/other sprayers would respond to using 
its air intake end.  This sprayer intake is threaded so I just put it to use 
with little to lose.

..good luck, gtb  
 


In article <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>, v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (John 
Earle) wrote:
|
|Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
|project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
|the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
|say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
|of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
|sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
|equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
|
|Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would 
|work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
|
|Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.
|
|

*---------------------*
* George Butts, KC8T
* Laurie Butts, N8CKI
* gtbutts@infinet.com
*---------------------*


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:06 EST 1996
Article: 43431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 15:37:13 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On Mon, 09 Dec 1996 12:31:46 GMT, ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
wrote:

>>Peter
>>Who can unequivocally endorse Dave Ficken as a dealer to trust. Hands up
>>all those MDNA dealers???
>
>According to the 1997 MDNA Buyers Guide, Marshall Machinery (Andy
>Popky's outfit) IS an MDNA member.  In fact, he is the only dealer I
>can recall hearing mentioned in this group, who I can find in the
>directory.  I MAY BE WRONG, AND WILL GLADLY LOOK UP ANY DEALER YOU
>CARE TO MENTION.  I do NOT wish to cast aspersions on anyone.  Many of
>the dealers I would recommend are not MDNA members.

Oops, already remembered one I missed:  Morton Machinery.  In fact,
Mark Rogo is on the Board of Directors of the MDNA.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From medievalbk@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:07 EST 1996
Article: 43432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: medievalbk@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: how to tell age of metal?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 15:52:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Another, probably general answer.

I am eagerly waiting for this book to arrive

Peterson, How Do You Know It's Old.  It has a chapter on fake arms and
armour.  It may go into the faking of antique metal.

William Taylor
G. F. Armoury Books
medievalbk@aol.com


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:08 EST 1996
Article: 43433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 9 Dec 1996 15:53:01 GMT
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Here goes my story. I saw a very nice 80 gallon 2-stage industrial
compressor. Motor, plumbing, etc was missing. Price was $35. I had a 5HP
motor. I went to Home Depot and bought a lot of pipe, even made a
radiator. The only thing lest was the pressure switch, which I got from a
surplus electronics store. It is labled as a "adjustable pressure switch
25-250 PSI". So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A fuse!
What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.


From medievalbk@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:10 EST 1996
Article: 43434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: medievalbk@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for spun tops
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:04:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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GET'EM on the FIELD ARMOURY

Right now I only have 9" and 9.5" in stock

12 ga. cold rolled

$20 ea. + shipping

The sizes available range from 8.5"  to 11" by 1/2", but an order or
combination of orders has to be of a minimum of 26 per size (full sheet)

Bowls for Viking and Celtic shield bosses are available.  The wide and low

style with flange is in stock, $18 ea.  The full hemisphere should be
ready 
for the big Feb. events.  A pointed Celtic style should be made by next
Pennsic
(a technical term for over 8,000 crazy people, for any non SCA people who
are reading this.)

William Taylor
G. F. Armoury
medievalbk@aol.com


From edward@locutus.us.dell.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:11 EST 1996
Article: 43435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: edward@locutus.us.dell.com (Edward Godwin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:06:36 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
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Distribution: world
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In article <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net>, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> writes:
|> hook@usit.net wrote:
|> > 
|> > i know of a man who welds cast iron without heat. he does a lot of
|> > automotive work and guaruntees everything. he will let you watch him
|> > prepare the work peice grind the vee and everything but goes behind
|> > locked doors when he welds it. all he will say is theres no heat
|> > involved because it will cause the cast to break. ive welded with
|> > every thing and alaways have to heat the cast way up and let cool
|> > slowly.what is he doing?
|> 
|> ...Uh-HUH!  I've heard of and [not] seen this too..a man over in Alabama 
|> welds cracked automotive cylinder heads; no welder, no kiln, no heat.  I 
|> took one to him once and picked it up the next day; it wasn't even warm. 
|>  I asked him how it was done (of course) and he politely told me that he 
|> wasn't going to tell me; it had cost him $2000 and a year's 
|> apprenticeship to learn it from someone else and if I wanted to know it 
|> would cost me as well!  He did use the words "chemical-pin" but that may 
|> have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 
|> you cannot see the repair when it's done, and these modern-day alchemists 
|> are *not* going to let you find out from them and set up shop in their 
|> neighborhood....Sounds like the old Guilds of Medieval Europe...
|> 
|> 			Jack

Would someone please post the address and phone number for one (or both) of
these individuals?  I have some castings that are in need of repair.  Thanks.

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
Edward Godwin                         |  "Stupidity is always a capital crime."
edward@locutus.us.dell.com            |         - Larry Niven _N-Space_
________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:  My opinions are not presented as remotely related, or similar to,
the opinions of my employer.  They can make up their own minds.......       


From sdesign@execpc.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:13 EST 1996
Article: 43436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Stout <sdesign@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 07:49:03 -0800
Organization: Exec-PC BBS Internet - Milwaukee, WI
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John Earle wrote:
> 
> Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
> say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
> of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
> sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
> equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
> 
> Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would
> work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
> 
> Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.

Actually, you can get a bell jar assembly and a small hand pump (similar
to those for pulling a vacuum in auto repair) from Edmund Scientific.
Shouldn't be more than $100.00. Works well for your application (been
there, done that).

Bob Stout


From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 14:05:14 EST 1996
Article: 43437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:24:47 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
Lines: 32
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On Fri, 6 Dec 1996 plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:

> >The rotary engines ran quite well and provided a lot of power for their
> weight compared to other aircraft engines of the time.  They lost a lot
> of their advantage because of their poor fuel and oil efficiency.
> 
> The basic problem with rotary aircraft engines (crankshaft bolted to
> airframe, crankcase rotates) is the gyroscopic effect. Some pilots could
> use this to advantage when turning, but only in one direction. Sopwith
> Camel is a classic example. 
> 

Actually, Pete, the gyroscopic problem wasn't that serious.  It could
be dealt with.  It war rather like a P-factor on steroids! :-)  The
real limitation of the rotary engines, and what finally caused their
downfall when we were able to cool the cylinders without spinning them,
was the poor fuel and oil efficiency.  It was not feasible to increase
the compression ratio above about 4 or 5 to one without melting the
pistons and they could not get the oil comsumption down.  Flight
durations were limited to an hour or two by the high fuel and oil
consumption.  That was ok for a fighter, but less than desireable
for air commerce that became more important after the war.

When they figured out how to cast aluminum head and fins onto a
steel barrel without having the differential expansion when it got
hot separate them and overheat the cylinder, then they were able to
build radial rather than rotary engines and recover the oil and
gradually increase the compression ratio and RPM as they improved
the bearings, the lubricants, and the heat dissipation.

John



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:05:15 EST 1996
Article: 43438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I'm BAAAACKKKKK!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 20:49:03 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

>

>As for the WISE GUYS who have had me INUNDATED with requests for 50% - 
>60% and MORE off the list price of SHERLINE equipment ( You know who you 
>are!) You'll all get yours! Especially from the guy who called me long 
>distance from Singapore to make his order!
>I am in the process of devising a suitably fiendish plot to get you 
>scalawags and teach you not to prank an aging member of the metalworking 
>community!. WAIT AND SEE!

>
So, uh...can I have 50% off last years model? <g>



From mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov Tue Dec 17 14:05:16 EST 1996
Article: 43439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Working Homepage
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:13:18 GMT
Organization: ANL
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <01bbe616$6c2edc60$244c8b92@mikehenr>
References: <32A5A584.52DD@mail.lafn.org> <alshinn-0512962154110001@ppp107-sf2.sirius.com>
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Not quite...

Try this instead:

	http://www.gardnerweb.com

Alan Shinn <alshinn@sirius.com> wrote in article
<alshinn-0512962154110001@ppp107-sf2.sirius.com>...
> In article <32A5A584.52DD@mail.lafn.org>, "Ed. Roberts"
> <bc317@mail.lafn.org> wrote:
> 
> > For those of you who have interest, I just found the home page for 
> > "MODERN MACHINE SHOP".  It's at:
> > 
> > http://www.gardnerweb.co
> > 
> > Lots of info on metal working related topics.
> > 
> > Ed. Roberts
> 
> All:
> that's:
>  http://www.gardnerweb.co/
> 



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:05:17 EST 1996
Article: 43440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Do you know these machines?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:54:05 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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garyh82012@aol.com wrote:
: I will be attending a few machinery auctions in the near future. These
: machines have been mentioned in the ads: Sharp 15x40 gap bed lathe, Lion
: 17x60 lathe, Webb mill, and a Romi lathe. I have never heard of any of
: these before. My budget for a lathe is under $3000. Anyone  out there able
: to give me some kind of a clue as to quality or value of any of these
: machines? 

Romi makes the basic lathe that is sold under the Bridgeport name as
their EzTurn CNC lathe.  We just got one in our shop, and it looks quite 
nice.  Romi is apparently in Brazil.


From cgermina@inf.unitn.it Tue Dec 17 14:05:18 EST 1996
Article: 43441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Red Gem <cgermina@inf.unitn.it>
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Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
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Washed Mind wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

Smoke a joint and go in peace,
maybe you have to start to live with humans not with religious ideas..


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:20 EST 1996
Article: 43442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:41:45 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: alevy01@aol.com

Two flute end mills are better for slotting, as they cut more nearly
to size when "buried" in a slot than do 4-flute end mills.  George
Thomas explained the geometry of why this is so years ago in a back
issue of Model Engineer.  It may also be in his Model Engineer's
Workshop Handbook.

You don't *have* to use a 2-flute end mill for slotting though.  If
you make an initial pass with a slightly undersize end mill, then 
follow it with a to-size 4-flute end mill, you'll do okay too. 




From mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov Tue Dec 17 14:05:21 EST 1996
Article: 43443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:51:01 GMT
Organization: ANL
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <01bbe5fa$29b60500$244c8b92@mikehenr>
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I've got a Sherline lathe & mill and was more than satisfied with the
quality, including the tooling.  One of the deciders for me (other than the
opinions here and on CIS:Handcrafts) was the excellent web site that
Sherline maintains.  Somehow, seeing a detailed price list and manuals for
all tooling on line gave me an impression of quality and integrity.  As I'm
a beginner, I've also had to pick up quite a few accessories and I've been
leaning toward Starrett for anything I think will need a long life with
frequent use.  I'm probably overbuying quality on much of the stuff I'm
buying ($25 for a 1/4-20 die?) but sometimes once can't afford the savings
of cheap stuff.

OTOH, my (and wife's) last 5-6 cars have all been Hondas - 100k on each and
almost no troubles.  I'd like to buy American cars but get scared off by
the problems some of my friends have. 

The Hurdy Gurdy Man <bkolodzi@sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu> wrote in article
<585r44$f8e@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>...

> I'm sure the Austrians make a good machine, but still, this statement
> bothered me.  What I'm wondering is, have other people out there
> encountered lots of problems with American-made equipment?  Is my 
> general pride and trust in USA-made stuff just a naive mistake?
> 
> 								Bryan



From andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov Tue Dec 17 14:05:23 EST 1996
Article: 43444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov (Andrew Morrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 09:15:18 -0800
Organization: JPL
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <andy-0912960915180001@amorrison-mac.jpl.nasa.gov>
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I saw an aircraft air cooled radial engine lying in the back of a Chevvy
van at the drags in Pennsylvania in 1957. It didn't do very well.

Andy

In article <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100>, "Joseph Sossi"
<jsossi@up.net> wrote:

> In response to installing Radial engines in cars it has been tried years
> ago, in 1894 & 1925. The one in 1894 was called the Balzer and it was a 3
> cyl radial, and in 1925 there was a car called the Julian, and it was
> powered by a six cyl air cooled radial with a bore of 3 3/8" x 5"stroke
> that produced 60 hp. the engine was mounted in the rear horizontally. Seems
> like every thing has been tried before some time in history, will attach a
> pic of the engine of the Julian.
> 
> Bye Joe
> begin 600 Radial Engine.JPG


From frank@dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:24 EST 1996
Article: 43445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:34:26 GMT
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
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I've recently been through all this.  In fact, I am right in the 
middle of a substantial college course on cutting and welding.  One
thing that is often overlooked is it is the oxygen jet that does
the cutting.  One can use any fuel gas at all to do the heating.

On the cutting table at school we use proplyene, acetylene, propane
or chemtane.  

Sure, you can use an acetylene regulator, but you can also use an
inexpensive 'barbeque' regulator.  

What are your price constraints?




From Mike Scott <scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu Tue Dec 17 14:05:26 EST 1996
Article: 43446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Scott" <scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:41:58 GMT
Organization: Diogenes Club
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Reply-To: "Mike Scott" <Mike Scott <scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu>>
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Hello everybody,
I dont know a darned thing about metalworking, unfortunately, but
what I want to do is bend a piece of sheet metal into a box shape
with a flange on the bottom for attaching a screen across the base.
Is there some kind of  tool I can get to help me make nice right angle 
bends, or should I not even try and do it myself?

Thanks in advance for any replies. If anyone does happen to reply, 
here's my email address: scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu

MikeS


From stover@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:27 EST 1996
Article: 43447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stover@ix.netcom.com(Mark Stover)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Produce and sell jewelry and other crafts!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:15:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 14
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.jewelry:16142 rec.crafts.marketplace:10847 rec.crafts.metalworking:43447

Conquest Industries offers a wide selection of machines designed to
equip small or large businesses with the capability of producing a
variety of molds for jewelry, fishing lures, hobby items, ornaments and
other accessories. 

Visit the Conquest home page at http://www.vpm.com/conquest/

Conquest Industries
9915 Bell Ranch Drive
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Phone: (310) 906-1111
Fax: (310) 906-1112
Toll-free: (800) 368-CAST
Email: conquest1@worldnet.att.net


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:29 EST 1996
Article: 43448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knorrostol Review
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:24:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Gary,

As I recall when I got mine, I had to have it ordered.  I know of a few
SPI dealers in the South Bay, Advanced Tool in Santa Clara, I just checked
and they don't stock it, but they should be able to get it from LA in 2
days, its $11.60 a tube, and you don't have to pay shipping if you pick it
up from them, there # is 408-727-0280.

Paul

ps, I didn't get a chance to look on the tube to check the ingredients.


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:30 EST 1996
Article: 43449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:37:42 GMT
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Dear Fellow Metalworker :

Your problem is, that the span on your pressure switch is set too low,
should be at least 30 psi. in an installation of your kind.

Alberto:

Keep up the good work.



From xcprhb@oryx.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:31 EST 1996
Article: 43450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:48:20 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
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Message-ID: <58hjd4$587@lm1.oryx.com>
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In article <32a96d4e.26478034@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) writes:
|> I just wanted to make everyone aware of a used machinery dealer with
|> whom I have had very good experiences.
|> 
|> Andy Popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com> has supplied me with a 24" Master
|> Vernier Caliper, and now an Aloris AXA Tool Post Set.  He has provided
|> tools in EXCELLENT condition, and at very good prices.  I can now
|> wholeheartedly endorse him to anyone who is looking for tools.
|> 
|> Now, if I can just get him to use UPPER and lower case letters MiXeD
|> iN tHe same message <g>.
|> 
|> Thanks again, Andy.
|> 
|> Scott Logan
|> ssl@loganact.com
|> www.loganact.com

BuT WiLL hE GivE You the SamE sErVice If YoUR NAme Is NoT LoGaN ? <g>

-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:33 EST 1996
Article: 43451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:05:52 -0800
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tony <tonyd@spec.net> wrote:

>Gee, an incapable taiwan special? How could that be?
>The way some guys rave about their Orient express bargins. You shouldn't have this
>problem. Molded parts? Oh, I guess that idler gear to reverse
>the lead screw was an option the dealer/importer/freight fowarder didn't tell you about.
>did tell you about.
>
>Somehow I've never had this problem on a S/Bend or Logan.
><Sarcasm mode ended>
>Why not try running the spindle in reverse and threading with the tool upside down?
>Does the lathe have the reverse option?

Here we go again with the thread on imports ..... 
groan .....

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:34 EST 1996
Article: 43452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Magnifier for shop
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:05:56 -0800
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I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
here first.
Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
type but again, there are a lot of different choices.

PS.: I am sure this will be much more interesting to people than
picking up the import bashing thread again :)

Jens


From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:36 EST 1996
Article: 43453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Burner Melt +Forge Metal Where?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 03:54:43 -0500
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I have used these atmospheric Venturi (Jet Pump) whatever you want
to call them burners for years.
If made from 2" pipe it will burn 10 lbs/hr or roughly 220,000 btu/hr
for each one.
They run best at roughly 5-50 psi.
A regular 6kb gif file can be found at
http://pw1.netcom.com/~thomas8/berardi.html
......Some people conplain about posting pictures so i put it on 1 of my
web sites.
Anybody use a different type of burner i would be interested in seeing
a picture of it maybe by email?


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:37 EST 1996
Article: 43454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 22:45:31 -0800
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Don't know about this first hand but my way of tackling that would be
to take some standard spacers (or turn some), mount them on a plate
that has been surfaced parallel on the two flat sides and then machine
the length all at the same time (either lathe or mill).
The spacers would be mounted from below with bolts (or you could
machine them with studs on them and bore them out after the length has
been dealt with.)

Jens


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:38 EST 1996
Article: 43455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:21:21 GMT
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My contribution to the expensive, but useful tool set:  A surface plate.
Actually, mine wasn't all that expensive; two of the local surplus places
(Triangle and RA Enterprises) get rather highly modified ones all the
time.  Mine came from Triangle, and there's a sort-of-convenient 4"
diameter hole in the southwest region of the plate.  The rest of the
plate has some nicely countersunk threaded inserts that I haven't yet
found a use for.

In all, it was a decent way to get a decent sized, good plate (about
18" x 24", not sure of the surface roughness, but I haven't found any
warp in it with my current tools.) for $75.  Of course, I've been
lusting after the 3' x 3' surface plates with stands, but I've been
able to resist, so far.  

Pete Brooks



From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:40 EST 1996
Article: 43456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Knorrostol Review
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:26:52 GMT
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Brad,

Its carried by SPI, Swiss Precision Instruments, who have local
distributors around the US.  Try:
SPI Carlstadt, New Jersey  201/939-8510
Elk Grove Village, Illinois  708/981-1300
Los Angeles, CA  213/721-1818

Paul


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:41 EST 1996
Article: 43457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: milling the whole surface
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I have several projects in mind which involve milling the entire surface
of a piece of steel. I can shift clamps around ok, but I'm wondering if
there is a better approach.

I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?

A magnetic chuck is another possibilty, but it seems like all the chips
piling up on the chuck would get in the way of the mill cutter. Is a
magnetic chuck useful for milling?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From barronr@mail.erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:43 EST 1996
Article: 43458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: 9 Dec 1996 20:39:50 GMT
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>
>PS:  Those lucky guys who got the $150 -175 stereo zoom microscopes!
>I missed out because my E-mail took to long to get to me!
>

Yeah, I missed out too, was in the hospital.
Not really complaining, I should'a had my 
kid monitor the E-Mail.  Those scopes were 
first come first serve.  You lose some, 
you win some (but home from the hospital is a win!)

Reg Barron



From hollen@axel.vigra.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:44 EST 1996
Article: 43459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: knifemaking suggestions needed
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 20:34:56 GMT
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I am contemplating making a couple of specially shaped knives for
whittling.  I have a couple of saw blades that I picked up for pennies
a pound surplus which are 16" long, 1.5" high and 1/8" thick to use
for the blade blanks.  I plan on doing the following:

1)  Cut blade to shape with abrasive cutoff wheel in high speed
	die grinder, making it go all the way through the handle.
	Make cuts on the side of the stock which will become the
	spine of the blade, not the edge, so as not to lose
	hardness.

2)  Slice a piece of hardwood for handle so that you can see the 
	tang from the bottom of the handle, but not the top.

3)  Insert blade in the handle and epoxy in, then when dry, drill
	through handle and tang for three copper rivets (counter
	sunk in the handle).  Set rivets.

4)  Shape handle and tang as a unit.

5)  Do final shaping of blade from flat profile to blade shape
	with extremely fine pink abrasive wheel with TONS of
	water immersions.  Smooth with abrasive belts of ever
	finer grade with TONS of water immersions.

6)  Polish with successively finer grades of polishing compounds
	on a buff (starting with tripoli and working to rouge).

7)  Hand sharpen on a diamond stone and burnish on a leather strop.

Does anyone have any suggestions, given that my goals are merely to
make the exact shape I want and not to spend a ton of time or money on
books and learning how to make knives for a living?

thanks,
dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
                                             http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:05:45 EST 1996
Article: 43460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:15:02 GMT
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I solved that problem on my 82 chevy with a half-rnd rough file and some
sweat. pick a cool day. You can't get far off as the lug bolts will keep
you honest. Just don't get carried away in one spot, and file from both
sides. Les

miker <mreiney@hevanet.com> wrote in article <329F2D85.3A20@hevanet.com>...
> I have a 1990 Nissan Pickup.
> I have snow tires on wheels left over from my 1976 Nissan Pickup.
> The hole in the center of the wheel is about 1/8" too small
> to fit over the hub on the newer axle.
> 
> I need a clever way to enlarge the hole without spending more money


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:47 EST 1996
Article: 43461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:15:59 GMT
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In article <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net>, Tom Krause
<t..krause@worldnet.att.net> writes:

> I also own one of these saws (Harbor frieght version)
>needed a few minor tweaks at first,but has performed admirably
>for 6-8 years with no problems.
> 2 notes:
>  the o.e. legs are a piece of crap,but I haven't gotten around to
>replacing them so far,must not be too bad.
>  stay away from the el-cheapo blades from HF,go spend the money on 
>some bi-metal blades,I believe mine are Lennox,they last forever.
>T

Yeah, I intended to replace the legs on mine too. They still look like
crap,  they still jiggle and bend, they are still there, hell they can
stay.

As to blades, absolutely correct. The MSC flier for December has Starret
Flex-back blades for $7.91 welded and ready to rock and roll. Stock up on
these as the last bimetal I bought I paid about $15.00 for. Just goes to
show I should have checked with MSC first as their normal prices are way
better than Enco's in this case.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:48 EST 1996
Article: 43462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:02 GMT
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In article <58h4n0$1ks@news1.epix.net>, gmfoster@epix.net (Garry Foster)
writes:

>It kinda hurts to say this but I agree with Peter.
>
>

<BG>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:50 EST 1996
Article: 43463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:15:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AB86AE.93F@cyberhighway.net>, Paul Pierce
<ppierce@cyberhighway.net> writes:

>I have found this little saw to be
>> the best single item I have ever bought.
>
>I think the second best is the 4x36x6 belt/disk sander...
>

My third choice is the bead blast cabinet. It strips paint and rust, it
adds a uniform finish to unbelievable inconsistant surfaces. Harbor Fright
for a $100 +  media + a shop vac + a bigger compressor. Best $100 I ever
spent. <g>

Seriously though, I can't imagine having a shop without a blast cabinet
now.

Peter





From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:51 EST 1996
Article: 43464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:03 GMT
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In article <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com>, Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com>
writes:

>If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump 
>sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from 
>it any day of the week (unless you have a racing engine.)  All you need 
>is a long hose and a way to get to the intake manifold.  I've used it for

>everything from evacuating A/C systems to "debubbling" epoxy and it seems

>to work just fine.  Maybe not ideal, but it's cheap!
>
>

This is the *really* neat thing about NGs. What a clever idea, $1.00 for
hose from Home depot.

Peter
Still learning.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:52 EST 1996
Article: 43465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ade0de.344152250@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) writes:

>Can anybody tell me why the visor is so great rather than to use a
>loope type ???? 
>The visor type doesn't seem to get high enough in the magnifications
>for real close inspection ....
>
>

With this type of magnification I find you can stack them up for increased
power.

I bought 4.5 reading glasses at Longs, that coupled with the standard 2.5
of the visor with the extra 3 of the inside flip down and the single loupe
mounted on the outside I can get about 15x. Focal length shortens
dramatically but is so adjustable for power I still like them. To answer
the first part last, You take them with you. I use them for close up work
on the lathe, setting up the mill and sitting at the bench stoning cutters
and the like.

Peter
Still a little one-eyed even with all this magnifying power!


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:53 EST 1996
Article: 43466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Patent number
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:11 GMT
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In article <32ab7a5f.1586070@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) writes:

>My hope is to adapt it to a table top device instead of floor
>standing.
>
>It looks like I will have to make another trip to the library.
>Fortunately, we have an excellent one here in K.C. (Linda Hall) that
>includes a full patent repository.
>
>Th

Sounds like a neat device, I would appreciate some follow up info after
the trip to the library. Might make a nice gift for holding recipe books
in the kitchen.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:55 EST 1996
Article: 43467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ac105d.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Smelling the roses is also doing something.  So is looking
>off across a high desert valley, smelling the breeze, loving
>the sunshine, and sipping fresh coffee while the mill makes
>a nice cut.  Did that today.  Highly recommended.
>
>

You are indeed a rich man Fitch.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:56 EST 1996
Article: 43468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AC1D85.59F1@moa.net>, Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
writes:

>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
>application?
>
>

Depends where you are cutting the groove. In the middle between the chuck
and tyhe steady, yes, near the chuck or steady no. Begs the next question
though, why use a steady and not the tailstock with a bullnose center?
Generally the saddle is used on the tailstock side of the steady.

Peter



From efd@pluto.njcc.com Tue Dec 17 14:05:57 EST 1996
Article: 43469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Edward DiLorenzo <efd@pluto.njcc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:46:17 -0500
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Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

If idle hands are the devil's workshop, folks like you with a keyboard
and internet access are his playground. I believe the Lord wants us to
use our talents. You'd do better to try to create something other than
spam.

LTD


From nick@eyrenenv.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:05:58 EST 1996
Article: 43470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Nick Eyre <nick@eyrenenv.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Re: SI stuff
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 21:21:58 +0000
Organization: Eyre Energy Environment
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ciBGSEA2LIryEwJ3@eyrenenv.demon.co.uk>
References: <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net> <58d936$kje@parlor.hiwaay.net>
 <32AB1A14.9AA@pclink.com>
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In article <32AB1A14.9AA@pclink.com>, "Duane C. Johnson"
<redrok@pclink.com> writes
>Mike Norton wrote:
>> 
>> In article <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net>, Kjones@interlynx.net says...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
>> >>This is all ABACADABRA to me.
>> >>Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
>> >>
>> >>arie veltman
>> >
>> >Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa
>> >
>> >In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation
>> uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F
>> >
>> 
>> I am a physics major who once designed high-tech transformers.  I was trained
>> in MKS units (SI) in school.  However, when I went to buy transformer cores,
>> they were in CGS units (centimeters, grams, seconds).  I learned the CGS 
>units,
>> and resolved to forevermore use the units used by the practitioners of a
>> technology.  For steam in the English-speaking world, this is pounds, etc.
>> 

Sorry to disillusion you.  No-one under 40 in Britain knows what a BTU
is.  You mean the American speaking world.

-- 
Nick Eyre


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:05:59 EST 1996
Article: 43471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!stdio!wolverine.hq.cic.net!news.ann-arbor.cic.net!chi-news.cic.net!news.voyager.net!news
From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 17:31:52 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
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To: woofter@aol.com

Bob,

There is an e-mail list for steam related subjects. Check out
http://mindlink.bc.ca/Ron_Stewart/ for information about how to get on
it.

Brian Perry


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:00 EST 1996
Article: 43472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 9 Dec 1996 20:35:59 GMT
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Peter Brooks (brooksp@corp.hp.com) wrote:

: 2) My Browning catalog doesn't do metric.  Does Boston have metric
: change gears, or if not, can someone recommend a source?  I'd like to do
: a few odd threads, and a 25 tooth gear would come in handy.

  My 1994 Boston Gear catalog describes metric spur gears as a special
order item. They have a minimum order of 25 pieces for parts under 6"
OD. I never worked up the courage to ask for a quote.

  Peter, I'll lend you my 25 tooth gear if you'll ream the bore out to
a true 14 mm before you send it back.

Bruce



From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:02 EST 1996
Article: 43473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:43:27 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
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After 29 yrs in McDonnell Aircraft's R&D shops, I can only say the term
"aircraft aluminum" is akin to saying "Car Steel". There are many different
alloys of aluminum used on the aircraft I am familiar with: Phantom, F-15,
etc. 2024 is used for the skin, mainly. Although not exclusively. 6061T6 is
another favorite of the engineer types who dream this stuff up. There are
others, of course.

Les Whitaker

Les Bartel <"(email me at) lbartel"@veribest.com> wrote in article
<32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com>...
> The other day, I saw an ad on TV pitching a well known brand of
> flashlights made of aircraft aluminum.  The more I think about it,
> the more I think the name of this metal is becoming just another
> buzz-word.  But, just in case....  Is aircraft aluminum a specific
> alloy?
> 
>  - les
> 


From wbtty@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:03 EST 1996
Article: 43474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: wbtty@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 10k S.B thread dial
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:49:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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am looking for a complete thread dial for a south bend 10 k lathe
cat no cl810nk
any assistance would be a help 
thanks


From r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:04 EST 1996
Article: 43475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: NJRich <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Grinding ways
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 18:31:15 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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References: <329779fa.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961130004800.TAA15460@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57q93d$q0r@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net> <01bbe61c$a15cb1e0$e81f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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Warm greetings,

I have this Sears (atlas)  12" x 36" and the lathe bed does have in
the neighborhood of 1-4 mils of visible wear ( I haven't cut with it
yet to be sure). I read recently here about concerns with grinding
to eliminate lathe bed wear. The lathe in general is a snap (aside 
>from  the mass of the parts) to take apart and the ways are just two flat
rails. Also if I jump through a few flaming hoops, stand and my hind 
legs, bark at the moon and deliver some fresh pastries there is a large 
machine shop Iknow that may do the grinding at no additional charge!.

My question is should I go ahead and try to get this grinding done, try
and live with it or try and get another lathe. I would like to work 
within reasonable tolerances not any world records but at least near
professional work.

Thanks a 1,000,000

Rich


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:06 EST 1996
Article: 43476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What About a "Jet" Benchmill?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 23:33:10 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Dec 09  3:33:10 PM PST 1996

    
    A local machine dealer has a "Jet" brand bench-top size mill coming
up for sale this week. I get first chance at it....but the only trouble
is that I have never heard of it. Probably it is offshore - but that
can mean anything. Anyone have any knowledge of this make? Only thing I
know so far is that it is about a 3' bed, 110 or 220 single phase,
comes with basic collets, drill chuck, vise, and a bent lead screw!
    He wants to get 600 to 700??? What do you think?
                                            Roger   



From phony@see.sig.for.real Tue Dec 17 14:06:07 EST 1996
Article: 43477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phony@see.sig.for.real
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:52:36 GMT
Organization: iiNet Technologies
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dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) wrote:

>The moving finger of Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net> having
>written:
>
>>"One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
>>contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?
>
>Take a small amount of cash and a good surplus shop. All the best
>gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
[snip]
 Just a thought: I wouldn't expect ex-missile gyros to last long. They
must of course run well while they run, but the missile's flight-time
is very short.


--  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
    "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au


From phony@see.sig.for.real Tue Dec 17 14:06:08 EST 1996
Article: 43478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phony@see.sig.for.real
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:55:59 GMT
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brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

>pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>
>: >QED ?????
>
>: Latin acronym for "It goes without saying"
>
>Nope.  You mean "Sine qua non".  I think.
>
"QED" = Quod Erat Demonstrandum - That which was to be shown. It
appeared (typically) at the end of formal proofs in geometry, which
would start with a statement such as "To show that AB = AC". A thread
of argument follows, then the punchline: "Hence AB=AC.  QED"

"Sine qua non" = Without which nothing. ie the referenced item is
absolutely essential.


--  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
    "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au


From phony@see.sig.for.real Tue Dec 17 14:06:09 EST 1996
Article: 43479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phony@see.sig.for.real
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:50:20 GMT
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vantonova@aol.com wrote:

>> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>>Why did they ever do it that way?
>
>Cooling. The rotating cylinders provide a great method to cool the hot
>cylinders. Water cooling is a lot heavier, and very ureliable at the time.
>Also elininates the need of a flywheel (the rotating engine is the
>flywheel). 

 Many thanks every one. One further question: I understand these were
4-cycle engines, not 2-cycle. Given this, how was the valvegear
worked? I have seen references to it's being operated by a cam-ring
fixed to the engine mounting. But such a cam must "rotate" (with
respect to the cylinders) at the same speed as the crank, whereas a
4-cycle engine normally rotates its cams at half the crank speed. What
have I missed here?

--  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
    "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:11 EST 1996
Article: 43480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!140.174.229.1!sun.sirius.com!ppp077-sf2.sirius.com!user
From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re:what are your projects
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:08:04 -0800
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I mentioned my Leeuwenhoek miroscope replica that I am trying to figure
out how to market.
Well I now have a web page with some of that project on it. You can se a
picture of my microscope. 
Check it out!
http://www.sirius.com/~alshinn/

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:12 EST 1996
Article: 43481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 09:38:24 -0500
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To: ssl@loganact.com

scott

zipped files can be dangerous
you never know what virus is lurking
in it, gets to be a pain
having to virus scan

regards
ap


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:14 EST 1996
Article: 43482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 19:25:52 GMT
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In article <01bbe5f9$11e29520$7477da80@mycroft> "Mike Scott" <scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu> writes:

>Hello everybody,
>I dont know a darned thing about metalworking, unfortunately, but
>what I want to do is bend a piece of sheet metal into a box shape
>with a flange on the bottom for attaching a screen across the base.
>Is there some kind of  tool I can get to help me make nice right angle 
>bends, or should I not even try and do it myself?

well, depending on the metal, thickness, size of box, it may be completely 
impossible or very easy. If it's thin steel and a 10" x 10" box with a 
1/2" flange, you could do it with some angle iron, a vise and a hammer.
I would suggest that the first thing you do is read some high school texts on 
sheet metal work and layout, your library may have them. 
good luck!


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:15 EST 1996
Article: 43483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 96 14:48:58 GMT
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Keywords: 
In article <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
>inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
>I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
>there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
>here first.
>Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
>type but again, there are a lot of different choices.

I would avoid the really high power magnifiers.  I find either a #4 
(2X) or #5 (2.5X) Optivisor works well for me.  You can get them up to 
3.5X.  Above that power, I don't think the binocular effect works very 
well, and you are better off getting an inspection microscope.  The 
higher the power the more any motion is magnified, and you need to keep 
pretty steady not to get a headache.  I think the real Optivisors (not 
clones) are well made, and Enco usually has pretty good prices on them 
(~$22).  Be careful, there are lot of 'sale' flyers that repeatedly have 
them for ~$38.  I think this is a typo, but I've seen it more than once, 
and the uninitiated could get screwed. 

Doug White


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:16 EST 1996
Article: 43484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 08:21:20 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32AC2E70.5650@cyberhighway.net>
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To: Jens <psh@islandnet.com>

Jens wrote:
> 
> It's interesting that all the replies to this seem to be heading
> towards a visor type magnifier - something I hadn't even considered.
> Can anybody tell me why the visor is so great rather than to use a
> loope type ????
> The visor type doesn't seem to get high enough in the magnifications
> for real close inspection ....
> 
> Jens

I feel there are two different applications.
I have  visor type, a loupe, and a fluorescent lamp with a 4-1/2" 
magnifier in it.  Each does it's own job.   How much magnification do
you require for a given purpose.

The visor, 14" focus I believe, ($28)is nice to read micrometers,
verniers, etc.
Don't need a lot of magnification there.

The loupe ($5, 5X) bought at a flea market (when shopping for fleas) has
a
clip for mounting onto my spectacles.  Great for looking at tool bits,
drill bits, etc. close up.  Also cactus needles, steel chips, etc. in my
finger.

The fluorescent (ring type) lamp really lights up the subject.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:17 EST 1996
Article: 43485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: 9 Dec 1996 03:00:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) writes:

>Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
>type but again, there are a lot of different choices.
>

I use the visor type that have about 2.5 as the main lens. There is
another flip down one inside that adds another 3 and a swing in loupe type
thing that ads another 4 or 5. Cost me $15 and is ideal. It swings up out
of the way and it fits over my reading glasses nicely when I use it.

>PS.: I am sure this will be much more interesting to people than
>picking up the import bashing thread again :)
>

My magnifying visor was made in Taiwan! ;)>

Peter




From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:19 EST 1996
Article: 43486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Patent number
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 03:02:00 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 39
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On 8 Dec 1996 17:10:37 GMT, pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32a99dd5.1703599@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
>rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) writes:
>
>>I love this semi useless technology and have kicked myself ever since
>>for not buying the thing.  If anyone out there has seen one or knows
>>where one is, I would love to get the patent number off of it and see
>>if I can reproduce it in a non-floor standing model.
>>
>>
>
>Shouldn't be too hard to design. Obviously it operates on the difference
>in weight of the book. A simple lever mechanism very similar to a set of
>old balance beam scales would work. 

>Peter

For the most part, I think your'e right.

An apology for this next bit of information as I neglected to include
it in my original post.  I hate it when somebody asks me a question
and fails to give me all pertinent information.  Now I'm the bad guy.

Anyway, as I remember,  this thing would also sort of fold up so the
book was held in a closed vertical position.  Besides seeing it at an
antique store (and missing my opportunity), I noticed it in the movie
version of "The Music Man".  Robert Preston and Shirley Jones dance
around it in the Library.

My hope is to adapt it to a table top device instead of floor
standing.

It looks like I will have to make another trip to the library.
Fortunately, we have an excellent one here in K.C. (Linda Hall) that
includes a full patent repository.

Thanks,
Roger


From jmreid@u.washington.edu Tue Dec 17 14:06:20 EST 1996
Article: 43487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Audience gauge...thanks for replies.
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 02:01:23 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 2
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What the heck audience are you trying to gauge?
It would help to quote the original post in the followups!


From bryanwh@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:21 EST 1996
Article: 43488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Bryan A. Whitfield" <bryanwh@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 10:12:59 -0500
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 26
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To: Kevin Heyes <xbm79@dial.pipex.com>

Kevin, do you happen to have a phone number for this publisher?

Bryan
Royal Oak, Michigan

Kevin Heyes wrote:
> 
> >Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8
> bore)
> Try to get hold of:
> Model Boiler Making - Pearce - ISBN 0 905100 13 1
> Available from Tee Publishing
> Regent Street
> Hinckley
> Leicestershire
> LE10 088
> UK
> 
> Model Boilers - M Evans - ISBN 0 85242 923 1
> Probably available from Tee
> 
> Model Boilers and Boilermaking
> K Harris
> Probably out of print, my copy's 1967
> 
> Good Luck.


From jmreid@u.washington.edu Tue Dec 17 14:06:23 EST 1996
Article: 43489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: PotMetal ?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 02:14:11 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 15
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To: niels jalling <jalling@cybernet.dk>

niels jalling wrote:
> 
> What exactly is PotMetal ??
> 
> Well I know this question is trivia for most readers of this newsgroup, but on this
> side of the pond in little Denmark we may have different "nicknames"/tradenames.
> 
Gingery uses the term for zinc alloys.  That is the common usage in the
U.S. Old automobile door handles, trim pieces, etc.  Watch out for lead
contamination as this leads to cracking in time, as found on old toys,
toy train wheels, etc.
I too may tackle that lathe.  Hope you have read all of the books in the
series. Let me know how it goes.

Jack Reid


From rabadie@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:24 EST 1996
Article: 43490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Pricing
Date: 3 Dec 1996 09:23:34 GMT
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Peter

> 6 amp controller with two axis included: $1530
> Extra axis controller: $367

Is that the capacity required to drive those motors? Wouldn't 1.5 amp
drivers do the job? Heck, many of the "homebuilt" driver circuits being
sold won't even support 1 amp. Shouldn't we compare apples to apples? 

When I approached Ah-Ha! initially I inquired about a custom 3 axis gantry
project, Bridgeport Mill, Hardinge Lathe and a Prazi Mill. They candidly
explained that their driver was overkill for the Prazi (similar to a
Sherline in size) and so I went elsewhere for 1.5 amp drivers and motors. I
don't think they market a 3K retrofit kit for a Sherline though you can
pick components that *will* work and yield the price you mention. Their
superior product is their software which I would want even for a
Prazi/Sherline. The systems integration provided by them for larger
retrofits or custom made machines is worth the asking price. Think about
it, 6-10 amp drivers will set you back $380-$500 per axis regardless of
where they come from which is in line with what Ah-Ha is charging.

>As aid in my last post that there is a danger in commenting on things
you only *think* you know something about. 

Exactly what does this mean? I have 17 years of process control,
microcontroller design, etc. and will humbly accept dissenting views and
examine them for personal enrichment. Thus far all I hear is a lot of
bragging about superior frugality and insults like the one above. Is that
the challenge you propose? I will not stoop down to calling someone a
"weenie" (as you did in a previous post) to defend an argument that is
strictly factual. Are you up to your own challenge or should I just move
on?

Ray



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:06:25 EST 1996
Article: 43491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:30:00 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 33
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The moving finger of v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (John Earle) having
written:

>[vacuum degassing epoxy]

You're fortunate in that you don't need a vacuum here, just a pressure
reduced from that in the bubbles. It's nothing like the quality of
vacuum you'd need for laser work.

You can do this with a fridge compressor from an old fridge. They're
not the greatest vacuum pumps, but they'll work well enough for this,
so long as you only use a small volume belljar.

Belljars shouldn't be made of glass, unless they're the genuine
article and in good condition. Even then they need to be carefully
sealed against a flat plate with proper vacuum grease. Glass belljars
should be covered in a wire mesh cover, in case of implosions.

Another belljar alternative is a domestic pressure cooker. You remove
the weight fitting and use it for a vacuum connection, and invert the
rubber safety valve. If it uses a "V" seal, that will need replacing
by a length of O ring (the V is designed to seal against internal
pressure, not external).

Another alternative is the ubiquitous surplus shop - vacuum pumps turn
up pretty regularly.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmiths.com 

ISO9000 :- A technique for perfectly managing the development
of a software product so inflexible and hidebound as to be 
completely useless.


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:26 EST 1996
Article: 43492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking suggestions needed
Date: 10 Dec 1996 00:34:04 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>From  what I've read on knifemaking, having gotten around to doing it yet,
your technique should work fine.  Most knifemakes use special belt
sanders, but theirs no reason not to use a grinding wheel.  I think the
belts cut faster though, due to coarser grits.  The key is not to temper
the blade when grinding/sanding it, as you'll lose the heat treating. 
Check your local library to see if they have, or can get some knifemaking
books.  I used to always go out and buy books when I was interested in a
new hobby, but now realize how that adds up.  You could also check a book
stoor, and leaf through a knifemaking book to get some ideas.

Actually, I sorta did make a knife about a year ago, I used some 1/2"
bandsaw blade, and made a peeler with it.  I used a die grinder with small
abrasive wheels, and the blade came out ok.  There really wasn't enough
metal for even a small knife though, and I never got around to making a
handle.  I wonder what I did with it?

One of the best lessons I learned from a friend who builds his own cars
and races at the Bonneville Salt Flats, is, just because an expert tells
you it won't work, doesn't mean you cant make it work.  It's good advice,
he's set records over 200 mph, and his best run to date is 269 mph.  So,
go for it!  It sounds like you know what your doing, even if the
professionals, and experts use a slightly different technique.

Paul


From jburnett@cline.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:27 EST 1996
Article: 43493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jburnett@cline.com (John A. Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: 10 Dec 1996 00:52:05 GMT
Organization: Centerline Equipment Corporation
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <58ic7l$ovv@kirin.wwa.com>
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In article <58hb9d$glq@herald.concentric.net>, JD <beckeng@sprynet.com> wrote:
>In article <58fmbs$r9u@news-2.csn.net>,
>
>>Then why do high volume production shops run Japanese CNC's - it all
>>depends on what you want to do and how many times you want to do it. 
>>Sometimes buying foreign equipment makes financial sense so that a
>>business can succeed.  If I tried to buy American everything I would soon
>>go out of business -which would be the opposite of your intention.  One
>>works in a global economy and compete however you can.
>
>By the way, the best Japanese machines are made in America!

For example ????


From fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:06:29 EST 1996
Article: 43494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Frank Scott <fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 20:42:34 
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In article: <32aa0b43.6123180@news.demon.co.uk>  dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk 
(Andy Dingley) writes:
> OK, I admit it - I've been out-geeked. I _hate_ it when people are
> talking about something and I finally have to admit that it's
> completely over my head.
> 
> Just what the hell are all the metal alloy numbers, who defines them,
> and what book do I need to put on the bookshelf so that I can
> understand what on earth is going on here ?  What's the best guidebook
> for alloys that I'm likely to buy from either my metal stockist or my
> favourite scrappie, and that I'm likely to have a use for ?
> 
> Snip
>

In the UK  a good book on properties of materials is

	Newnes Engineering Materials Pocket Book
by W. Bolton, Butterworth-Heinemann Ltd  ISBN 0 7506 18140
price 12.95UKP

This gives UK & US designations and material properties of
many engineering alloys of iron, steel, aluminium, copper,
magnesium, nickel and  titanium.

It's got sections on polymeric materials and ceramics as well!
 	 
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Frank Scott  Sutton, London|
Web site: <http.frasco.demon.co.uk>
More than you'll want to know about my 6 legged robot
---------------------------------------------------------------------------




From jmreid@u.washington.edu Tue Dec 17 14:06:30 EST 1996
Article: 43495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 17:27:08 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 24
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To: v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca

> 
> John Earle wrote:
> >
> > Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> > project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> > the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data 

Whoa!  A really good vacuum will cause enough bubbling to really foul up
your source!  On top of that it will vaporize the hardener so what is
left won't set.

The cheapest source of vacuum is an aspirator.  A device that fastens
onto a foucet and uses the venturi effect to pull suction on a side
arm.  They are available in metal from Scientific Supply houses.  Our
local TArget stor has plastic ones in a waterbed filler kit for about
$5.00

Of couser, the family car is still good, but proyect it with a liquid
trap:  a jar with inlet and outlet tubes epoxied to the lid so liquid is
trapped there.

cheers

j.m. Reid


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:31 EST 1996
Article: 43496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Waterjet project
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 05:04:20 -0800
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"Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>Jens,
>
>RE>> This whole thing is silly - buy a commercial pump and be done with it!
>
>Commercial waterjet cutters start at about $100,000 do you know of any
>cheaper? Heck even the pump unit is over $20K and I know of only 1
>manufacturer.
>
>> > I assume the mode of operation is through cavitation?
>RE> Unknown  ....
>
>Most have abrasives in the stream which requires a very, very hard nozzle
>
>> ...I still think you would be nutty trying to build one of these when
>commercial units are available so cheaply.
>
>Where can I get a cheap one?
>
>Ray


If you had read the original post you would have known that we are
talking about a pressure washer to remove mildew from concrete and
stuff of that nature !

Jens


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:32 EST 1996
Article: 43497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Do you know these machines?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 01:21:13 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 21
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On 9 Dec 1996 13:08:27 GMT, mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) wrote:

> As a machinery dealer, I would be remiss if I didn't try to explain
>why you might want to consider buying from a dealer. You may pay more
>than the auction price, but you will be able to inspect under power.
>You will be able to return the machine if something is wrong. You will
>be able to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about the machinery.
>Most importantly, you can still get answers and help months later.

I will emphatically second all that Dave has to say.  I've bought at
auctions, and sometimes you can find a good deal.  I've also seen lots
of things go for MORE than new cost.

Keep in mind that virtually all auctions are "where is, as is" and
generally, they WILL NOT allow you to inspect the machine under power.
You will also be responsible for moving the item or arranging to have
it moved, and there may be a limited time frame in which to move them.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:33 EST 1996
Article: 43498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 20:43:20 -0500
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rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
> 
> How do you keep your welding rods dry?
> 
> Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ron Norris
they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:34 EST 1996
Article: 43499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:02:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
writes:

>I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
>sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
>table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
>tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?
>
>

Someone just recently mentioned a heatable film that goes between the work
and the mill table or vice. You heat with a heat-gun to stick and the same
to unstick. Provviding the work does not get too hot it grips like the
clappers.

Check DejaNews for heat etc in the last four or five weeks.

Peter



From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:35 EST 1996
Article: 43500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:26:35 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Thanks to everybody who has replied on the Atlas shaper so far. I'm still
collecting data. I've talked to the dealer, who agrees that the
consignment seller thinks it's worth too much, but they don't know what
it's worth either so if I present a range of prices they will probably
deal. All the prices mentioned here seem pretty consistent with one
another -- $1K for absolute top end with lots of goodies, $800 for a
pretty good machine, and $300 for a beater. 

I don't know much about shaper operations. I guess I'll get vol. 2 of the
Moltrecht book. What exactly is the "spline tool" somebody mentioned? I
don't think it's in there, unless that's another name for a keyway tool.
There is one tool included that appears to be like a normal tool except
it's extended outward, sort of an L-shape, which I guess is the keyway
tool. 

Does anybody have a manual and/or parts list for this? Is Atlas still in
business (absorbed by Delta or something?)

I'm off to the local library tonight, there were a few shaper articles in
the 1950s in Popular Mechanix. Looking through the Readers' Guide to
Periodical Literature, you can see that almost nothing came out after
about 1960. Interesting...

Pete


From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:37 EST 1996
Article: 43501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need Patent number
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 02:31:26 GMT
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Re: self-leveling dictionary stand
>Sounds like a neat device, I would appreciate some follow up info after
>the trip to the library. Might make a nice gift for holding recipe books
>in the kitchen.

That's a good thought.  I had really only considered it for it's
original purpose.  If I actually find it.  I understand that the
patent indexes are pretty tough to wade through.

A very nice gentleman emailed me with a URL for the U.S. Patent Office
where I can make online searches.  I'm not sure they go back far
enough.

Roger


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:38 EST 1996
Article: 43502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:38:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58hna9$292s@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, EDCP78A@prodigy.com
(Alex Sallwey) writes:

>I also went to Home Depo on Sat.  The C-H 6.5hp that someone here said 
>could be bought from C-H refurbished and delivered for $430(?) was priced

>at $389.  I wonder if it is the same one?  Probably.  Interestingly the
4.
>5 hp C-H motor draws the same amps as my measly 1 hp.  Although the 
>compressor is probably larger as it is rated around 6 cfm at 40 psi.  
>
>

Oooops my dyslexic fingers, that was $349 delivered. Being out of state we
save the tax too. Mine is on the way, hope it arrives this week.

Peter
Dyslexics of the world untie.




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:39 EST 1996
Article: 43503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:38:14 GMT
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In article <19961209200300.PAA20923@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
cbear81438@aol.com writes:

>compressor in the shop kicked on, the welder worked great.  When it quit,
>the welder went back to sputtering?  Any Ideas?
>
>

Leave an air line open so the compressor runs all the time. <g>

Peter



From wpm1@gramercy.ios.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:40 EST 1996
Article: 43505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Donald Arnone <wpm1@gramercy.ios.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: WTB! Little Lulu Doll
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Stop..CROSSPOSTING!! USENET Violation.


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:41 EST 1996
Article: 43506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 23:15:55 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
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Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> I have several projects in mind which involve milling the entire surface
> of a piece of steel. I can shift clamps around ok, but I'm wondering if
> there is a better approach.
> 
> I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
> sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
> table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
> tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?
> 
> A magnetic chuck is another possibilty, but it seems like all the chips
> piling up on the chuck would get in the way of the mill cutter. Is a
> magnetic chuck useful for milling?
> 
> --
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com

If you can attach the part to a sub-plate from the back side, you can
then clamp the sub-plate down to the table outboard of the part. You can
also use edge clamps, depending on the thickness of your work.

I've also used two Kert vises in tandom with their jaws relocated
outboard to clamp large parts. A few wacks with a dead blow hammer does
help to insure that the part is seated correctly.

Jay


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:42 EST 1996
Article: 43507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 07:48:04 -0800
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hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:

>HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
>machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
>was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
>greatly appreciated.
>hemp4peas@aol.com

It always amazes me how people can possibly ask an open ended question
like that .....
The plastic bags from the supermarket slice very well with my pocket
knife. Hope that info helps !

And this from an engineering student .... makes me wonder what our
next generation of bridges will be like.

Jens


From fritzs@minn.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:43 EST 1996
Article: 43508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fritzs@minn.net (fritzs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: tube bender question
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 05:52:42 -0600
Organization: Minn.Net
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Look into the possibility of purchasing a Hossfeld Metal Bender (Winona,
MN.)This machine can bend tubing cold  without kinks by supporting the tube
completely.  They have a promotional video out also.  Also bends flat iron,
cold roll, tubing, just about anything.  This machine is really cool. 
Obviously, too expensive for just one project, but worth looking into. 
Email me for more info.

-- 
Member: MN Genealogy Soc; searching for: Beyer, Beier, Porter, Stuneck,
Danner, Pomplun, Minnich, Ludwig.


From pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:06:45 EST 1996
Article: 43509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pcd@bozzie.demon.co.uk ("Paul C. Dickie")
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 03:20:42 GMT
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In article <32ABD3DB.6919@abrasha.com> abrasha@abrasha.com "Abrasha" writes:

>Rick Cook wrote:
>> I understand your annoyance, but in this case I think it is misdirected.
>> The questioner simply wanted to know what the thing is. A one or two
>> sentence response would have sufficed. It seems to me that's a perfectly
>> appropiate question in the NG.
>
>I disagree. 

But of course Abrasher disagrees!  He's so utterly convinced that he's 
absolutely right that he simply won't consider it possible that, in fact, he
might be utterly *wrong*...

> A two WORD querie of the Web would have provided the person who asked the 
>question with a wealth of information.  All the person would have needed to
> type, would have been "Infoseek"... <yak, yak, yak... snipped>

That assumes that the questioner *has* web access. Some folk don't.

>Yet he chose to ignore the very existance of the medium he is participating 
>in, by posing the question to the ng, which in my opinion is an extreme 
>example of laziness.

Yet that follow-up seemed to shew that its author had confused the WWW with
Usenet; one might suppose that to indicate not sloth but stupidity...

>Besides, I did supply a very valuable URL relating to astrolabes in both 
>my posts.

Which is of approximately zero help to someone without web access!

>And while I am on the subject and on my soap box in rant mode, I am equally
>annoyed at the seemingly endless string of people who ask questions as to 
>where to find certain items, manufactured in the US.  Invariably, ALL of 
>these questions can be answered by searching the Thomas register Online, 
>which I believe is mentioned in the FAQ's of this ng.  

Do they *all* have WWW access?  If not, such a response is useless...

>Nevertheless, I have many times responded politely to these posts and have
>given the URL of the Thomas Register as well as the results of the searchers 
>I did for the posters of the questions.

If they don't have web access, one might as well tell them the shelf number on 
which a book is to be found at one's own local public library!

>Every once in a while, all those drips make the bucket get full and it needs 
>to be emptied out.  The bucket is empty now,

Does that mean that Abrasha will make less, or more, noise?

-- 
< Paul >
 
 



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:46 EST 1996
Article: 43510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas welding FAQ/info?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:18:23 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz) wrote:

>In Article <slrn5a654c.rd4.rbinder@y.ucf.engr>, through puissant locution, rbinder@y.ucf.engr (Rubin Binder) soliloquized:
>>Anyone know of any oxy-acetylene FAQ's or other info available on the net?

>Greetings. Not that I have seen.. but a trip to the local library in search
>of MIG welding books showed a list of about 4 oxac books. I wish I had
>found even one exclusively-MIG book... but NooooOOOOoooo...  [sigh]

>Take care.
>-- 
>+-->Filip "I'll buy a vowel" Gieszczykiewicz | E-mail: filipg@paranoia.com
>| http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/ |SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR FAQ + LOTS MORE!
>| Enjoy your job, work within the law, make lots of money : Choose any two.
>| I think for myself. I listen. I make decisions. I speak what I believe.

I think Miller publishes a paper back that deals exclusively
with MIG welding.  I picked it up a few years ago - it may
still be available.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:47 EST 1996
Article: 43511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Waterjet project
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:18:25 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>John Haddy <johnh@mpce.mq.edu.au> wrote:

>This whole thing is silly - buy a commercial pump and be done with it!

>>My question is: does anybody have a feel for the pressure
>>required? 

>Depends on what you want to do, how fast you want to do it, what kind
>of water flow you have available.

>1500 PSI is about the minimum useful pressure, 2500 PSI would be real
>nice. The pressure will do you very little good if you havent got a
>decent flow rate .... 3 gal/min is minimum and the more the better.

>>Obviously, too much will abrade the surface, whereas
>>too little will fail to do the job.

>No, not really ... you could run it at 100000 PSI if you would like
>to, just don't put the nozzle too close to the job surface :)

>> I assume the mode of
>>operation is through cavitation?

>Unknown  ....

>>Also, what are the NG's recomendations for the style of driver - 
>>e.g. multi stage centrifugal pump, or double acting piston, etc.

>Most commercial units are piston pumps

>>What size motor will be required?

>depends on pressure and flow rate selected. A 1500 PSI @ 3 gpm will
>require about 3 hp.

>>Thanks in advance for any assistance,

>You are welcome but I still think you would be nutty trying to build
>one of these when commercial units are available so cheaply.
>Save some time and efford and build something that can't be bought for
>a few dollars or can't be bought at all.


Jens,

Can't we tell him about forges first?  And have a long
involved discussion about whether or not to use inflatable
wheels on the cart? And whether or not the Northern X2
nozzel actually does that?   And start a lottery on how many
will be in the next Harbor Freight Catalog under $625.00.
We could invent pressure sprayer rated motors.

And as a bonus get a well deserved lecture from Jim who is
back (whew) and starts long threads.  

Please?

Don't be such a kill joy.

Fitch
These things have "ceramic" pistons - now there an
"opportunity".   I'd almost pay a dollar for a catalog that
didn't have two or three of them in it - almost.  Always at
least one with a "CAT" pump too (image of Big Yellow Machine
- real *men* have CAT pumps - grunt grunt).  



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:48 EST 1996
Article: 43512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:18:21 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) wrote:

<snip>

>I would not say that *all* compressor motors are 1.15 SF.  The vast
>majority of the units I have seen are, but not all of them.

>After looking through my Grainger catalog, I see that GE makes motors
>used on C-H, Sanborn and other compressors.  These are rated at 1.0SF
>"compressor duty" which seems somewhat of an oxymoron.

<snip>

>-Reckless

Near as I can tell "compressor-anything" is a euphemism for
mysterious violation of usual rules.  After my investigation
of compressor horsepower, compressor duty seems highly
suspect.  I think it is, at best ,a way of saying if you
want a *real* 2 hp motor, don't use this one, it will fry on
you.  That is not necessarily bad, just like Ketterings
application of duty cycle to electric starting on cars as
was mentioned before.  It does take the margin out of the
rating though since it is rated by counting on it only
delivering its rated hp for the last few seconds of the pump
up cycle.

The motor pulley exercise described earlier was actually
quite clever since what was done was to take the motor right
to its max nameplate when it finally pumped up to full
pressure.  Note that the use of the compressor in the
authors application reached equilibrium at a much lower
pressure than cutoff - i.e. when he was using air the supply
equaled demand at well under the set pressure of the switch,
so the motor just sat there happily spinning the compressor
at under rated load for hours with out overheating.  The
author also indicated that a gage was provided to permit the
pressure to be monitored.  What he did was to optimize his
air system for a particular purpose as opposed to the normal
pump it up and shut it off general purpose scenario.  In his
case the pressure switch was more of a safety device than
enything else.

This can work just fine as long as no one uses the system
who doesn't understand it.  It is considerably less fool
proof.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:49 EST 1996
Article: 43513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to...
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:23:50 GMT
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"Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net> wrote:

>And I thought I was the only one...
>Les Whitaker

Not even close!  This is a whole group of "ones".

Fitch

>Reckless <reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> wrote in article
><57q93d$q0r@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>...
>> gunner312@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> >.....ANd then sometimes you can make a $5.00 tool out of $100.00 worth
>of
>> >material and many hours of labor.  But then if we knew what economics
>was
>> >all about we wouln't be running a lathe would we?
>> 
>> Don't I know that one.  To make a small (1.5 gallon) air tank, I
>> needed at TIG welder.  $1700 for the TIG, $27 worth of scrap aluminum
>> and I have a very nice tank.
>> 
>> A lathe and mill are on the horizon.  My project car is getting
>> expensive.
>> 
>> -Reckless
>> 
>> 




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:50 EST 1996
Article: 43514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:46:35 GMT
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reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) wrote:

>Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com> wrote:
>>I've seen loose grounds do all sorts of odd things, including
>>the result (more power) you are seeing.

>>In the past, wicked and long discussions have been written about
>>the 'impossibility' of some of the results of bad grounds.  Most
>>of writers have been ignorant and offensive, and I do not want to 
>>have another round of than.

>>Spend long time checking your ground conditions.

>>Ground problems I've seen include 'start elevator blow up computer',
>>'turn on printer, blow up power strip', 'start washing machine, blow
>>light bulb', 'plug in printer, it lights on fire',  'sun comes up, 
>>circuits go off', and the list is much longer than this.

>>I suspect that you are driving the 3phase with a converter, and that
>>converter is on the 'other' side of a center-tapped circuit.  With 
>>high load on the other side, the ground is moved, giving more voltage
>>to the welder.

>OK, from what I understand of Cecil's setup, he has a substantial shop
>with 3-phase power.  I don't believe his problem is a ground problem
>per se, but more likely a loose phase connection between the power
>panel and the transformer.  Loose neutrals do this in single-phase
>circuits.  If the welder is single-phase (most MIG units are unless
>they're really big), its connected to only 2 of the three phases, and
>one of those has the loose connection.  When the compressor goes
>online it acts as a rotary converter and stabilizes the loose phase,
>but when it shuts off the voltage on that phase drops, hence the
>symptoms he describes.

>My suggestion: check the grounds (for safety reasons, of course), and
>pay extra special attention to all the hot leads and any neutrals.
>Check the voltage at the breaker panel when welding and at the welder
>outlet.  I suspect that both will be low when welding.  If so, the
>problem is outside somewhere between the panel and the transformer(s).
>If the supply lines are aluminum, they have a tendency to get loose
>with time.  Make sure everything is tight.  The power company may need
>to be called if the problem is not in your equipment/building.

>I had a similar problem at the last house I lived in.  The neutral
>connection was loose at the pole transformer, and after I tightened
>all the connections in the breaker panel (without changing the
>problem), Edison was called and they replaced a crimp on the neutral
>wire.  Solid power once again.

>Check it out and be careful
>-Reckless

I had written almost exactly that, then yours showed up on
my screen.  I second the be careful part - leave anything on
the hot side of the main breakers for the power company.
Aluminum wire cold flows and can lose contact pressure, most
of the power company wiring to the main panel is aluminum.

One question - do you experience this behavior on other
single phase equipment?  If so, is it  wired to the same
single phase?

Fitch




From amuller@dca.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:51 EST 1996
Article: 43515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 05:06:10 GMT
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In article <32ac1061.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) says:
>
>amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller) wrote:
>
>
>>As a data point, I have to replace the diodes in a Miller "Dialarc" 
>>250 Amp AC/DC welder.  According to Miller, these diodes are 150A 300 V.
>>They cost about $26 from Miller which is the same price I got from
>>an electronics supply house.
>
>>Hope this helps.
>
>Do you know if they are used in a bridge?
>
>The voltage rating is instructive.  The line inductance in
>high current DC circuits can make some nasty voltage spikes.
>
>Fitch
>
Yes, they are in a bridge.  I think there are some disk capacitors 
(or possibly MOVs, but they are blue) across the diodes, presumably
for shunting transients.

am


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:53 EST 1996
Article: 43516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:53:27 GMT
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xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley) wrote:



>BuT WiLL hE GivE You the SamE sErVice If YoUR NAme Is NoT LoGaN ? <g>

>-- 

>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>               I am solely responsible for the contents...

>Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

>              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
>------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can you do all caps?  I am getting motion sick trying to
read this. 

Fitch
<g>




From btaylor@radware.net Tue Dec 17 14:06:54 EST 1996
Article: 43517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ZEUS!not-for-mail
From: Bruce Taylor <btaylor@radware.net>
Subject: Re: NAMES and the Internet
Message-ID: <32ACE6A3.3C2@radware.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:27:15 -0600
References: <ginger.581.0023E9F1@pcm.ultranet.com> <32ae6ad5.2759845@news.sprynet.com>
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Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 6 Dec 1996 16:30:35 LOCAL, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron
> Ginger) wrote:
> 
> >Any of you that were at NAMES (North AmericanModel Enigneer Show) last year
> >may recall that we had a seminar session each day called Metalworking and the
> >Internet.
> >
> >I have been asked by the organizers to do it again, and hapily agreeded.
> >
> >Now I have started thinking about how we could put the NAMES show 'on the net'
> >I know some other events have made a 'live' event on the web, but I have never
> >paid much attention to the details.
> >
> >Any suggestions on how we could do some kind of web 'event' connected to NAMES?
> >
> >At the very least we can have our meeting again this year, but can we do
> >something that ties in the folks that cant come to Michigan?
> 
> Ron,
> 
> Count me in, I'll be there again this year (and I promise I won't miss
> the seminar this time).
> 
> I like the idea of a Web Event.  Many folks can't make the trip
> (though more should try<g>), so how can we "spread the gospel" of
> Modelmaking/Metalworking?
> 
> Scott Logan
> ssl@loganact.com
> www.loganact.com

How about a CuSeeMe Video link?  Someone could video tape portions of
the event and broadcast them via CuSeeMe.  This makes the event
essentially a "live" event.



From pipeline@persbest.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:55 EST 1996
Article: 43518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: The Pipeline <pipeline@persbest.com>
Newsgroups: alt.manufacturing.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.manufacturing.misc,alt.industrial,misc.forsale.non-computer
Subject: FREE Machine Tool Catalog via E-mail
	              Free Machinery Catalog via Mail or E-mail
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 12:45:49 -0800
Organization: The Pipeline
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu alt.manufacturing.misc:898 rec.crafts.metalworking:43518 alt.industrial:6544 misc.forsale.non-computer:50669

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• Heim           • Johnson-Southbend     • Jones & Lamson 
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• fabricating equipment      • CNC machines     
• press brakes               • shears                    
• turret punches             • lathes 
• plate-bending rolls        • initial pinch rolls 
• angle-bending rolls        • mills 
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• ironworkers                • comparators 
• drills                     • boring mills 
• tube benders

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Thank you for your consideration.

pipeline@persbest.com


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:57 EST 1996
Article: 43519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 10:35:08 -0800
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:


>Lets see ... www.forteinc.com ... that was it, full version
>has a *real* nice feature as I read the borchure .....

Yah, but it only works for newsgroups at the moment - apparently they
are working on a similar feature for email :)

Jens



From fred@fvfowler.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:58 EST 1996
Article: 43520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fred@fvfowler.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinist squares-who sells good but cheap?.
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 07:07:23 GMT
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On 5 Dec 1996 19:29:06 GMT, gene@ionet.net (E.M.Bortmes) wrote:

>I need a good 12 inch machinist square for use in my woodworking 
>projects.  IF accurate to 0.001 inch in the 12, that would be great.  
>Will the ones made in India or China be that accurate, and at an 
>inexpensive price.  Would Enco have such, or if not, who should I 
>contact?  Appreciate help.
>
Almost every square in the US is made by the same mfg. they sell to
Starrett, B&S, Mitutoyo, Fowler, SPI... Don't buy Chinese   Your best
deal will be J&L, PTS, MSC or DoALL, Enco. They usually have inventory
on these and can deliver the same day. You can probably get a good
deal at these places, and get a new, quality tool at a good price.

Ask the phone rep for AMERICAN MADE and they have both. If you get a
"import tool", let them know and make a return. 

If you buy from a reputable company, like the ones listed, you should
have no problems.

Good Luck!
Fred



--------------------------------------
Fowler Tools & Instruments
Company Pages: http://www.fvfowler.com
Email: fred@fvfowler.com
--------------------------------------


From fred@fvfowler.com Tue Dec 17 14:06:59 EST 1996
Article: 43521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fred@fvfowler.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: OLD Measuring tools needed
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 07:55:08 GMT
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Hello all,

I am searching for pre-WWI ,II  micrometers, calipers, dial indicators
et al  for a history of measurment display we will be doing at our
next trade exibitions. If you have such tools we will either buy them
outright or trade for a new tool. (old caliper= new digital caliper!)
We are looking for a few pieces of each manufacturers 
models so 1st come 1st served.

Please contact me, Fred Fowler III, fredf@fvfowler.com with details of
the tools, their condition, make and model. Accepting all. If anyone
has a Fowler Tool with a Teddy Logo on it is of SPECIAL interest.

If you want to see what is up for grabs, go to www.fvfowler.com

(check out the calipers!)

Fred Fowler III


--------------------------------------
Fowler Tools & Instruments
Company Pages: http://www.fvfowler.com
Email: fred@fvfowler.com
--------------------------------------


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:00 EST 1996
Article: 43522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: . .lathe or mill...which would I get the most use out of?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:31:41 GMT
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creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:

>I work silver by the old
>method...hammers/stakes/anvils/heat/sweat/cursing..
>I would like to "discover" the modern method of  carving finials and
>other parts I deem will work with my design.

>I only wish to have a simple machine which will allow me to carve some
>finials out of sterling.  I have absolutely NO idea how lathes/mills
>work, let alone the tools/attachments that go with them.

>I really appreciate YOU machinists that have done so much to bring
>innovative designs to the market. And have made all our lives easier
>thru products that you have produced.

>But, keep in mind...what goes around comes around.  There is a new
>found appreciation for objects made entirely by hand.

>Thats who I am.

>Regards,

>Jim Waggener

More people should "know who they are".

I wish I knew more about what you are doing and snall cnc
mills to be able to help.  I am infereing from the post
above that you are interested in using a machine to
supplement your work, not to buiild train engines for
example.  I don't know how hard it is to machine silver
(though I can guess you treat the swarf differently than you
do for hot rolled steel from the drop shelf).  

Do you want to be able to make a design, possibly finely
detailed, maybe needing a special shape of cutter, and then
have the machine repeat it several times?  

With a lot of "ifs" and caveats born of ignorance thrown in,
I'd offer an "intuitional" (is that a real word?)  guess
that you would do better with a small cnc mill and a really
good graphics package of some sort that can communicate the
design accurately to the mill, than with big machines.  My
intuition also suggests  that the second challenge will come
in the graphics SW and the interface between it and the cnc
stuff.
The first challange may be between you and the graphics SW
unless you are routinely using SW for design purposes now.
The art work seems to me to be harder to do in a computer
than conventional mechanical drawings of parts with
geometric regularity to their shapes.  I know the other can
be done, and it is done everyday, but I don't think it is
easy to transition from doing it by hand to developing it in
a computer,  

KF's advice normally applies - it certainly applied to me -
but in your case, I'm not so sure you wouldn't be better off
with a small but very accurate cnc mill.  PnP has done a lot
of research on them, so have others on the NG.  

Fitch
Wishing the news server at the ISP wasn't down so he could
send this  .... 








From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:07:01 EST 1996
Article: 43523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:19:00 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 18
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

I saw a short description of cold welding in the new Strictly IC.  Pretty
simple, actually, at least in concept.

Also, some time ago, there was an illustration of repairing a Jaguar
E-Type block (these are irreplaceable and worth close to their weight
in gold) using this technique in a Jaguar restoration magazine.
The crack went right through the serial number.  When they were finished
you couldn't even tell there had been a crack there.

I think the recommendation was to check with either diesel or marine
repair shops for expertise.


-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From dkoehn@elite.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:02 EST 1996
Article: 43524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dkoehn@elite.net (Dale Koehn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: refinishing old lathe
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 19:32:27 GMT
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I have a South Bend lathe (16"X10') and the first 5 feet of the ways
 are badly worn. Can the ways be refinished? What would it cost and is
there someone local  (Fresno Ca) that could do this? Or I have been
thinking about moving the headstock down to the middle and cutting the
upper half off. Is this possible? Has anyone tried this? I do not need
the length.
--
Dale



From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:04 EST 1996
Article: 43525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Morton Machinery, are you out there?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 14:45:45 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <32a71ff5.2752967@news.sprynet.com>,
ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>Did anyone else receive a huge e-mail from Morton?  Apparently, I was
>on their mailing list (on my CIS account), and this evening received a
>junk mail from them on some Maho Machines they were selling.  The damn
>message was over 95 Kb!  Apparently had a uuencoded photo with it, but
>CIS doesn't handle those too well.
>
>Am I the only one "lucky" enough to receive this?  Am I out of line
>for being offended by this?  I would think that they should have sent
>a brief message saying what was available, and a pointer to their Web
>address.
> 
>
Scott,


I also got one and sent it back to the 3 Morton addresses I have... with a
few notes on using a web pointer rather than all that UUencode junk... if
some one asks for picture of something they are interested in fine... but
even then I would rather it was in MIME format... not UU... and it should
be at my request... they should never send unasked for binarys this way...
if I have asked to be on their mailing list (and I may have in one of my
visits to their site though I don't recall it) for notices of stuff for
sale... fine drop me a line telling me of this great batch of Schaublin
tooling just in for pennies on the buck...(G) and either point me to a web
page or ask me if I would like them to send me a gif or jpeg of it...)

but they should have it set up so they know that I would be interested in
say Tooling for a schaublin 102, J head bridgeport right angle attachment
in good condition, serviceable and cheap DRO for a 12 X 36 lathe, bench top
diefiler etc etc...

in otherwords Ishould be able to fill out a form on their web page listing
the stuff I am interested in... have that go in their database and when
stuff comes in that matches my seelections then generate a short email of
the sort outlines above. this would be a hell of a service and perhaps it
is something that dave might want to talk to his webmaster about as well.
 the chances that I would buy heavy Iron from someone on the left coast are
between none and none... NJ or PA is about as far as I would go...

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:07:05 EST 1996
Article: 43526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 19:49:26 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 18
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The moving finger of Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net> having
written:

>"One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
>contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?

Take a small amount of cash and a good surplus shop. All the best
gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
blast gyro (from a Bloodhound SAM, AFAIK) with a brass rotor about a
pound in weight, where the compressed air nozzle also locks the
gimbals in place. On launching, the nozzle pulled out to release the
gimbal. You can blow it up a reasonable speed just by mouth.

It uses plain bearings, a hard steel cone on the spindle running in  a
large brass bush. I've not dismantled it, but there's obviously
something else inside the bush. From the back I can see a hard,
glassy, insert that might be either mirror polished steel, or even
glass itself.


From riccardo@snet.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:06 EST 1996
Article: 43527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo <riccardo@snet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need source of supply for wire mesh
Date: 30 Nov 1996 03:41:18 GMT
Organization: A customer of SNET Internet: http://www.snet.net/
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I want to build small animal cages of 6-12 cubic feet. Can anybody direct 
me to a supply source for sheets or rolls of wire mesh?



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:07:07 EST 1996
Article: 43528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:33:15 GMT
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In a previous article, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) says:

>net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
>From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
>Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:30:02 GMT
>Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
>Lines: 18
>Message-ID: <32aa0b43.6123180@news.demon.co.uk>
>References: <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com> <581cfo$ck3@bluto.accesscomm.net>
>Reply-To: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
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>X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227
>
>The moving finger of geotek@accesscomm.net (George Carlson) having
>written:
>
>>My choice for a flashlight housing would be 6061.
>
>OK, I admit it - I've been out-geeked. I _hate_ it when people are
>talking about something and I finally have to admit that it's
>completely over my head.
>
>Just what the hell are all the metal alloy numbers, who defines them,
>and what book do I need to put on the bookshelf so that I can
>understand what on earth is going on here ?  What's the best guidebook
>for alloys that I'm likely to buy from either my metal stockist or my
>favourite scrappie, and that I'm likely to have a use for ?
>
>
>--
>Richard, I bet you're reading this. Yes, it is a shameful admission.
>

Machinerys Handbook of course.  Most of the industrial books cost a fortune!
Then get a book, or photocopy of info on British alloys & compare 
ingredients.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From Glen.Farney@snet.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:08 EST 1996
Article: 43529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glen Farney <Della.Farney@snet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 14:27:50 -0800
Organization: Ferret Association of Connecticut
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <32A20666.19ED@snet.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:43529 rec.autos.tech:208393

> >It depends on the particular car. 

Perfect statement.

> >Also, some aftermarket wheels don't take advantage of the axle centering
> >and just rely on the lug bolts.

Correct again, I purchased 'multifit rims', never do that again.
 
> Jesus, where are you guys comming up with this. I had a Mercedes, and no,
> the wheels located off the lug nuts. (I'm sorry, lug bolts) The center of the
> wheel did nothing but hold the little Mercedes emblem cap.

I guess Mercedes went both ways, they did make more than one car
ya'know.
 
> I also had two Porsches. The wheels locate off the lug nuts, and, once again
> the center does nothing but hold the Porsche cap.
> 
> I've had several VWs, and one may note, VW wheels don't even have a center
> hole, the center cutout follows a contour around the lug holes.
> 
> If you look at a brake drum, or rotor, from any of the above, they're machined
> flat at the lug holes, but at the axle it's just a rough casting, nothing to
> locate off anyway.



I'm glad we can all sit here and assume that the half a dozen cars that
we have had indicate typical design for hundreds of models.  I have cars
that have hub-centric loading and cars that don't.  In fact, my 4WD
Pathfinder has a hub loaded rim in front, and a flat drum in back, so
obviously, it depends on the car.  How much of the load is carried by
the hub?  I donno, I'm not the engineer that designed the car. (I am an
engineer tho) Even the type of lugs have alot to do with how they work.

Happy Motoring
Glen


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:07:09 EST 1996
Article: 43530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 00:44:20 GMT
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Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com> wrote:
>I've seen loose grounds do all sorts of odd things, including
>the result (more power) you are seeing.

>In the past, wicked and long discussions have been written about
>the 'impossibility' of some of the results of bad grounds.  Most
>of writers have been ignorant and offensive, and I do not want to 
>have another round of than.

>Spend long time checking your ground conditions.

>Ground problems I've seen include 'start elevator blow up computer',
>'turn on printer, blow up power strip', 'start washing machine, blow
>light bulb', 'plug in printer, it lights on fire',  'sun comes up, 
>circuits go off', and the list is much longer than this.

>I suspect that you are driving the 3phase with a converter, and that
>converter is on the 'other' side of a center-tapped circuit.  With 
>high load on the other side, the ground is moved, giving more voltage
>to the welder.

OK, from what I understand of Cecil's setup, he has a substantial shop
with 3-phase power.  I don't believe his problem is a ground problem
per se, but more likely a loose phase connection between the power
panel and the transformer.  Loose neutrals do this in single-phase
circuits.  If the welder is single-phase (most MIG units are unless
they're really big), its connected to only 2 of the three phases, and
one of those has the loose connection.  When the compressor goes
online it acts as a rotary converter and stabilizes the loose phase,
but when it shuts off the voltage on that phase drops, hence the
symptoms he describes.

My suggestion: check the grounds (for safety reasons, of course), and
pay extra special attention to all the hot leads and any neutrals.
Check the voltage at the breaker panel when welding and at the welder
outlet.  I suspect that both will be low when welding.  If so, the
problem is outside somewhere between the panel and the transformer(s).
If the supply lines are aluminum, they have a tendency to get loose
with time.  Make sure everything is tight.  The power company may need
to be called if the problem is not in your equipment/building.

I had a similar problem at the last house I lived in.  The neutral
connection was loose at the pole transformer, and after I tightened
all the connections in the breaker panel (without changing the
problem), Edison was called and they replaced a crimp on the neutral
wire.  Solid power once again.

Check it out and be careful
-Reckless



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:11 EST 1996
Article: 43531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 03:52:24 GMT
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>The 4-1/2 x 6 advertised by Enco, Grizzly, Harbour Freight and many others
>for around $200 is more than adequate. I have found this little saw to be
>the best single item I have ever bought. I used to dread hacksawing lumps
>of steel before turning or milling them. Now I just clamp it in the saw
>and walk away. Go back when I hear it go "clump" and the saw turns off.

Just to make it clear, never leave the room when it is running, one time the 
blade bound while cutting multiple pieces and the belt slipping filled the 
whole room up with rubber smoke, quite a surprise to come to after a coffee
break. The saw was fine afterwards though.... (it's a jet by the way)


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:12 EST 1996
Article: 43532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 21:23:34 GMT
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paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth) wrote:

>In article <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> frwillia@ptw.com writes:
>>
>>If one had a source of inexpensive diamond laps, and could
>>machine a suitable hum, a couple of those small DC motors
>>might make a homebrew Carbide cutter grinder similar to the
>>Glendo machine.  Or maybe one could use a higher powered one
>>to make a cold saw.  
>>

>In order to make a Christmas project, I'm building a faceting machine. 
> (I'm always getting into these projects where I have to make something
>to make something) I'm using an old 5 1/4 floppy drive as the source of
>turning power. The _old_ drives had a little servo controller board on
>the back of the drive - you could hook it up to 12V and use the little
>pot on the board to vary the speed.  Later models integrated everything
>onto one board and are not so easy to deal with.  I would guess you end
>up with something in the range of 300-400 rpm.  That servo controller
>gives a surprising amount of torque.

>Anyway, I was at a lapidary shop and they were selling laps for around
>$80-$100.  It has not escaped my attention that this might be a way
>of sharpening tool bits as well.



>-- 
>Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
>Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
>paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services

You may be right.  I think you might need more torque than
the disk drives give though.

Fitch



From gord-gil@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:13 EST 1996
Article: 43533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gord-gil@ix.netcom.com (Randy Gordon-Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline parallels
Date: 10 Dec 1996 10:52:25 GMT
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Well, not parallels marketed by Sherline!  

I recently bought a Sherline mill with some attachments from Jim Harvey (fast, 
friendly service but what happened to the T-nuts, Jim? :-)  The mill vice has 
jaws that are only 1" deep, and I could not find any parallel sets that didn't 
go all the way up to 1-7/8", and the sets cost a good fraction of what the mill 
did!

So I got to looking in the MSC catalog, and among all the fluff :-) saw several 
pages of ground steel stock.  Compared to parallels, it is dirt cheap, so I 
bought some Staratt oil-hardening stock in 1/8" thick, and 1/4" to 7/8" 
thickness by 1/8's.

I did not expect it to be ground "to size", but figured that it would be even 
enough so that I could selectively cut a couple of 6" pieces from each 18" 
stock length.  When the steel arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find that 
the parallelism of each piece along the width was well within .0005"!  I 
hacksawed the steel in three, deburred the edges, and have some nice "hobby 
quality" parallels for my Sherline!

One caveat is, that the squareness of the ground stock is not as good as "real" 
parallels.  I set up pairs of the "parallels" on the magnetic chuck of the 
surface grinder at work, sitting on their 1/8" faces, and found that the upper 
edges would converge/diverge by a few thou.  Just enough to be able to rock one 
up on a corner before it touched the other.  But, again, more than good enough 
for the model railroading work for which I am using the mill.

Randy
--
gord-gil@ix.netcom.com ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
Randy Gordon-Gilmore  // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
Benicia, CA, USA     /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
                                  -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-



From Tony.Midea@moa.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:15 EST 1996
Article: 43534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New Lathe
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 06:16:54 -0800
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Your opinions please:
I have a lathe that I purchased from ENCO 9x20" ( no flames please):-)a 
few years back. Believe it or not it has served me well. It has run well 
with no  problems to speak of my indicating tools even tell me it has 
good accuracy(BTW they are mitutoyo). However sometime in 1997 I would 
like to up grade to a 12-14" swing. I have about $ 2500.00 - 2800.00 to 
spend. I really don't want to go back to Enco. I would probably just keep 
the one I have and save the $$ if that was my only option. I need your 
guys help. Is there a brand that I should look at? I am a hobbiest and 
this lathe will probably  be used on the weekends. I want to make and 
intelligent decision and I have seen many brands discussed on this ng.

OR am I better off to just buy used? Or should I save for another 2 years 
and get in the $4000-5000 range.
The brands of lower end  in most catalogs I see look like the same ones 
enco sells with just different names.

Thanks for all your help.
Tony


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:16 EST 1996
Article: 43535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: 8 Dec 1996 21:52:18 GMT
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In article <58dl0q$h3d@fido.asd.sgi.com>, glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary
Lowell) writes:

>I can offer a couple data points.  I missed a clean 9" SB for $500
>just recently, and two weeks ago I bought a 9" SB Model C at an
>estate sale for $400.  The machine that I bought needs a bit of clean
>up, but the spindle turned freely, and I didn't see any light under
>a straitedge place on the ways.
>
>Both machines included faceplate, three chucks, and a set
>of change gears.  I occasionally see them advertised much higher
>but that might be due to having quick change gears or power feed.
>
>

  Good grief. Why can't anybody around here let one go for that. The last
SB that I know about went for over $1200 at a auction. Around here junk
goes for more than the good big stuff. Oh well.



   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:17 EST 1996
Article: 43536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:27:59 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 10 Dec 1996 02:26:35 GMT, plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:

>Does anybody have a manual and/or parts list for this? Is Atlas still in
>business (absorbed by Delta or something?)

Atlas was bought by Clausing, though I don't know if they have any
info on the Shaper.

Clausing Industries  (Clausing Colchester, Atlas Lathes)
811 Eisenhower Dr.
PO Box 877
Goshen, IN  46526
Tel. 219-533-0371
Fax  219-533-0403
http://www.gardnerweb.com/imtscd/profiles/clausing/clausing.html

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:18 EST 1996
Article: 43537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10k S.B thread dial
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:28:01 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 9 Dec 1996 22:49:17 GMT, wbtty@aol.com wrote:

>am looking for a complete thread dial for a south bend 10 k lathe
>cat no cl810nk
>any assistance would be a help 
>thanks

Well, you can call South Bend, but I understand they want over $200
for it.  You can also call Joe Bergamo at Plaza Machinery.  He is
making new Thread Dials for SUBSTANTIALLY less.

South Bend Lathe Corp.  (South Bend Lathes)
400 W. Sample St.
South Bend, IN 46601-2892
Tel. 219-289-7771
Fax  219-236-1210

Plaza Machinery Co.
P.O. Box 14
Bethel, VT  05032
Joe Bergamo
Tel. 802-234-9673
Fax  802-234-6325
E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:07:19 EST 1996
Article: 43538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 20:58:39 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Dan Danknick (xray@pobox.com) wrote:
: I just bought one of those cool cutoff tools with the insertable carbide
: tips for my lathe. The arm that holds the carbide is 0.5" square and
: about 5" long. So I tightened it into my tool post, installed an insert
: and started to part a small piece of CRS. Squeal! More cutting fluid.
: Squeal! Now the dogs in the neighborhood are barking. Not much cutting
: happening at the part, either. Idea: reposition the tool arm closer into
: the tool post and retry. Nice cut.

: Question: what's going on here? Is my saddle loose on the ways? Short of
: cutting nylon or aluminum I can't think of a softer material to cut.

Cutoff tools are noted for their tendency to chatter, and it is always
recommended to get the tool-post as close to the cut as possible.  In other
words, make the length of cutoff tool extend just barely more than the 
radius of the workpiece.

And, yes, there could be just a bit of looseness in the lathe carriage or
slides, or in the spindle.  You should also have the area to be cut as
close to the chuck jaws as possible.

						Jon



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 14:07:20 EST 1996
Article: 43539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: anvils
Date: 5 Dec 1996 21:03:50 GMT
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In article <32A6F4B2.79E4@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:

...snip...

> Could the bubbles be corrosion pits?
> 
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com

Naw they're too deep. Do you know of a simple test to tell cast iron
appart from cast steel without breaking the part?

Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:22 EST 1996
Article: 43540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: where did I see it?
Date: 5 Dec 1996 21:26:09 GMT
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Eduardo Haddad Filho (ehaddadf@home.iis.com.br) wrote:

: But I just can't rememeber where I saw it.
: I subscribe to PIM, HSM and Engineering in Miniature.
: I don't know if I saw it there or in some book (I've looked in the 

As Paul said, try Frank MacLean's book.  BTW, here's another blatant plug
for the village press book index (derived from the VP back issue index)
that I worked on.  Jim Kirkpatrick did a nifty search engine for it, so 
you can look for keywords and such.

Pete Brooks




From g7923@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:23 EST 1996
Article: 43541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: g7923@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for small metal stamping machine or service
Date: 4 Dec 1996 05:19:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Hi Greg

I make jewelry dies and can help you find a press. What kind of production
are you looking for? Maybe I can supply you with stamping from dies I own
or can stamp them for you.

E mail me if your interested.

Greg(also)


From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 14:07:24 EST 1996
Article: 43542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: More AA/Sears Lathe questions
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:43:04 -0600
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On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Paul Pierce wrote:

> George Erhart wrote:
> > ......I fully understand why others have discussed the merits of a
> > quick-change gear box! Anyway, most people seem to get replacement
> > change gears from Boston Gear. I keep meaning to write for a catalog,
> > but it never makes the top of my list!
> 


Do you have the chart that came with the lathe.  I know the change gears 
are a bit of fun, but once you figure the chart out they aren't too bad.  
If you don't have the chart, let me know, I'll send you the specs.




Tom


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Tue Dec 17 14:07:25 EST 1996
Article: 43543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: :Monarch Lathe
Date: 4 Dec 1996 05:20:55 GMT
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Boy, I sure wish I had the Monarch I used in grad school; built in 1942
(war production board and all that) and a real _joy_ to run despite having
been used by students for many years... must have weighed 6000 lbs.  My
10" Atlas is the other extreme...

- Bart

---
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100





From mfraser@wimsey.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:26 EST 1996
Article: 43544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mfraser@wimsey.com (Mark Fraser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone know anything about Electroplating?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 06:04:03 GMT
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Lines: 22
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I've successfully plated copper onto other metals with a battery
charger, copper wire and table salt solution [or was it vinegar...]

That's pretty easy to demo; not a quality job, but makes the point!

/mark

Daniel Matthews (DMatthewx@gnn.com) wrote:
: A company by the name of Green CirKit has some good info on electroplating 
: for printed circuit board applicatons. I'm sure the information would be 
: usefull. I don't have their www address right now, but you could just search 
: for GREENCKT on Yahoo or Alta-Vista

: I think copper is one of the easiest and least dangerous plating materials.

: All you need is some copper tubing, some copper sulfate, a simple (5V) power 
: supply, some current limiting resistors - about 10 Ohms or so, and something 
: you want to plate!

: Good luck




From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:27 EST 1996
Article: 43545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for Sargent pliers
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 21:04:06 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <stagesmith-0312962104060001@cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <582shi$o9k@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <582shi$o9k@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>, cetus@ix.netcom.com (Bill
Verge') wrote:

> I am looking for parallel pliers made/sold by the Sargent Co. formerly
> of New Haven,Conn. These pliers were about 6" long and and either
> polished or chrome plated. They happen to be the best parallel pliers
> made (I think!!!).The company does not exist as a tool company any
> more.  Does any one have a line on where to get these pliers or where
> they were manufactured?
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Bill Verge'
> cetus@ix.netcom.com     

OK , I have 2 different brands of Parallel jaw pliers, and both are very
well made.
My older pair are marked "Bernard"  No. 102, and are made by W. Schollhorn
Co. of New Haven, Conn. 

My new ones are much better made and are made by Maum Industries  of England.
Maum also makes them in Stainless Steel. The ones I have are extra large,
so the side cutters have some impressive cutting power.
If you call Brownells gunsmith supply of Montezuma, Iowa, they can sell
you several different versions of the Bernards, including ones with
unhardened plane jaws , so you can make them fit what ever you want.
Maum makes them with or without side cutters and in several sizes and styles.

Best of luck

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From zoner@goodnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:28 EST 1996
Article: 43546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:12:27 GMT
Lines: 5
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If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!


From fabian@li.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:29 EST 1996
Article: 43547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.171.6.16!li.net!usenet
From: Fabo <fabian@li.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:05:19 -0800
Organization: LI Net (Long Island Network)
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <32A77F5F.3BF@li.net>
References: <584v91$orm@nw101.infi.net> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961205153914.15169A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca>
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Tom Kruesel wrote:
> 
> Not at all.  It's a worthless piece of junk.  In fact, if you tell me how
> to get in touch with the person selling it, I'll tell him what I think
> (Which is....I'll give you $925!)  :^)
> 
> Tom
> 
> (always looking, never able to afford)
> 
> On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Jim Waggener wrote:
> 
> > Quoted from the local paper:
> >
> > LeBlond Regal, 13x60, 3 phase, 8 spd, gear head w/some tooling $950.
> >
> > This worth a second look? Opinions?
> >
> > Jim Waggener
> >
> >
> >

This is a good illustration of the fact that there is no one as well 
informed as the misinformed.
You must be a reall know it all huh ?
fabian@li.net
( from reminising my machine shop days fame)


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:30 EST 1996
Article: 43548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 10 Dec 1996 14:15:42 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <01bbe6a2$3b18ebc0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
References: <58g7dq$la8@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.0.31.227
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Cecil, from the undernet I gather that since AOL went to the competitive
rates, it's been jammed. <<following is commercial based on personal
experience>> I wouldn't have AOL again for free. They have a nasty habit of
yanking your posts, esp the gun BBS, for any excuse--or without one. Found
them arrogant & biased.>> Opinion strictly of writer--go get your own :)
Les Whitaker

Cecil Bearden <PLYMOUTH-DOCTOR@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<58g7dq$la8@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
> Has anyone here had trouble connecting with AOL  ????  I ahve tried to 
> connect with them for 2 days and cannot.  I am using the Oklahoma City 
> Connection.    
> 
> Cecil in OK
> 
> 


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:32 EST 1996
Article: 43549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining plastics
Date: 10 Dec 1996 14:40:57 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <01bbe6a6$9e24ebc0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
References: <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com> <geoffben-0912962215460001@ip21-122.phx.primenet.com>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Wow! Geof, that was cold!! <laughing> . I routinely used to mill garbage
bags. Trick is to melt them into a holder...<g> Yes, engineering students
are that way, I used to make my living at McDD making them what they needed
rather than what they asked for. The good ones appreciated it, the others
didn't get a second chance. Les Whitaker

geoff beneze <geoffben@primenet.com> wrote in article
<geoffben-0912962215460001@ip21-122.phx.primenet.com>...
> In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
> > machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
> > was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would
be
> > greatly appreciated.
> 
> Well, the last time I tried to machine a plastic bag, it wrapped around
> the cutter. 
> 
> It might help if you gave us just a BIT more information, "machining
> plastics" covers one hell of a lot of ground. I'm certain most of us
> are/would be more than willing to help, if ONLY we had some idea of what
> you're asking. These kind of "how high is up?" questions are just a bit
> much to handle.
> -- 
> geoff beneze (geoffben@primenet.com)
> ******************************************************************
> *      Arizona Shooting Sports        *      BEAST Gunsmithing   *
> * http://www.primenet.com/~geoffben   *        Target Stands     *
> * The unofficial Dillon Tech Page     *  Air & Smallbore Postals *
> *         NRA Life member             *                          *
> ******************************************************************
> 


From mjp@roe.ac.uk Tue Dec 17 14:07:33 EST 1996
Article: 43550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!uknet!newsfeed.ed.ac.uk!news
From: Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:36:28 +0000
Organization: Royal Observatory, Edinburgh
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References: <Web-2111961717140001@dialup110.bv.sgi.net> <572m02$j6j@camel1.mindspring.com> <329EB71A.5315@aol.com> <c37cc$c3116.31a@NEWS> <32A828D8.7C80@roe.ac.uk> <32a98fc2.14445840@news1.ibm.net>
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RKUIPER@aol.com* wrote:
> 
[snipping lots of juvenile vitriol]
> I HOPE YOU GET E-MAIL BOMBED INTO ANNIHILATION.

Kicking off with an apology to all reasonable folks reading messages on
the groups in the above header, I didn't check the list before I 
replied to a message, and was (quite correctly) the recipient of a few
courteous messages pointing out my mistake.  I've emailed privately
to everyone who took the time, and I've offered my apologies to them 
for my mistake. RKUIPER doesn't deserve that courtesy.

I subscribe to a lot of groups (and have done for 6 years), and I'm
sufficiently net-literate to recognise the difference between a 
spammer and someone who made an error. RKUIPER@aol.com seems incapable
of the same discernment. Deliberately cross-posting a criticism of
someone's accidental cross-posting strikes me as hypocrisy.

Again, sorry to all those who were accidental recipients of a
throwaway message.  As for RKUIPER@aol.com, he or she should get
their act together; the privately-mailed version of the message you all
received was full of foul language and pointless vitriol; not something
I've learned to expect from most newsgroup participants.

-- 

Best wishes,
Magnus


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:07:34 EST 1996
Article: 43551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <58f9g1$i8t@news2.delphi.com> <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:18:54 GMT
Lines: 40


He is in a good spot to look at one or more.  I believe that the British 
Museum has some.  Another source would be the Clockmakers Museum in the 
Guildhall.  Possibly even the Science Museum.




In a previous article, rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook) says:

>net!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.80.63.252!delphi.com!usenet
>From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
>Date: 8 Dec 1996 20:46:57 GMT
>Organization: Galahad
>Lines: 12
>Message-ID: <58f9g1$i8t@news2.delphi.com>
>References: <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: bix.com
>X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.3
>
>Abrasha wrote:
>>I have no problem with sharing my expertise on subjects I know >something
>about, but it  rubs me the wrong way when people seem to be >plain lazy and
>not willing to use the resources available to them.
>>
>I understand your annoyance, but in this case I think it is misdirected.
>
>The questioner simply wanted to know what the thing is. A one or two
>sentence response would have sufficed. It seems to me that's a perfectly
>appropiate question in the NG.
>
>--RC
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:07:36 EST 1996
Article: 43552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Objective review of the Grizzly G4000 9" x 19" Lathe
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <32AAD87E.6DBE@concentric.net>  
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:58:42 GMT
Lines: 43


The information I have on this lathe, gives no hint of a back gear.  A 
back gear is essential if you want to machine cast iron & Bronze.  It's 
also handy for parting off.  The advertisment I have gives the lowest 
speed as 130 RPM.  The lowest speed on my Myford is 58 RPM, and I plan on 
installing a smaller motor pulley to reduce this to 43 RPM.  As it is, 
there are times when I hand crank it to get a very low speed.

Don't assume that you will only do one type of machining with it.  As you 
gain experience, you will use it for other jobs.  

If you start making model steam engines, you will soon find yourself 
working on castings.  Even the castings that look like brass, are really
gun metal, a tough bronze.  A light lathe like this must be run as slow 
as possible when working on these castings.



In a previous article, bryanwh@concentric.net ("Bryan A. Whitfield") says:

>I am considering the purchase of a metal lathe to build scale size 
>stationary steam engines.  I have a very limited budget but want a fully 
>featured machine with adequate swing.
>
>I have reviewed the last thread on the G4000 by the news group and found 
>little help because the discussion turned personal and caustic so 
>quickly. 
>
>If you have personal experience with this lathe or the supplier and 
>would like to share it, please respond. Lets keep personal biases not 
>based on actual experience with the G4000 or Grizzly out of the 
>discussion if possible.  
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bryan Whitfield
>Royal Oak,
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:07:37 EST 1996
Article: 43553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
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Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk> <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:39:38 GMT
Lines: 42


In a previous article, dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley) says:

>knet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!codesmth.demon.co.uk
>From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
>Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 19:49:26 GMT
>Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
>Lines: 18
>Message-ID: <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk>
>References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32A250A7.15D6@interport.net> <32A66246.2198@interport.net>
>Reply-To: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk
>NNTP-Posting-Host: codesmth.demon.co.uk
>X-NNTP-Posting-Host: codesmth.demon.co.uk
>X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99e/32.227
>
>The moving finger of Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net> having
>written:
>
>>"One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
>>contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?
>
>Take a small amount of cash and a good surplus shop. All the best
>gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
>blast gyro (from a Bloodhound SAM, AFAIK) with a brass rotor about a
>pound in weight, where the compressed air nozzle also locks the
>gimbals in place. On launching, the nozzle pulled out to release the
>gimbal. You can blow it up a reasonable speed just by mouth.
>
>It uses plain bearings, a hard steel cone on the spindle running in  a
>large brass bush. I've not dismantled it, but there's obviously
>something else inside the bush. From the back I can see a hard,
>glassy, insert that might be either mirror polished steel, or even
>glass itself.
>
I have a couple from an old sperry bombsight ( I think ).  The end of the 
shaft is coned, and runs in three steel balls in a matching race.  No cage.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:07:38 EST 1996
Article: 43554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Propane
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:51:55 GMT
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In a previous article, lwc1220@aol.com () says:

>news.aol.com!not-for-mail
>From: lwc1220@aol.com
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Re: Propane
>Date: 8 Dec 1996 22:29:22 GMT
>Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
>Lines: 22
>Message-ID: <19961208222900.RAA22564@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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>NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
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>X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader
>
>In article <E23D13.55@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
>ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) writes:
>
>>An acetylene regulator works fine.  You will need an adapter for the
>tank.
>>I have been using this sort of rig for 20 years.
>
>  Adapter? Are you using the the little MC size tank? Or do you have
>regulators for a MC size tank? The standard size regulator made for the
>bigger tanks will fit right on a propane tank.

I am using one of the tanks sold as replacements for barbecues.  I will 
get a new one when it's empty.  The propane seems to last forever.  The 
tanks certification has run out.  Testing is 1/4 of the price of a new 
tank, so I might as well replace it.  There are two standards for tank 
fittings in use here now, but only one when I bought the tank.


>
>
>   Wayne Cook
>
>Quality is like buying oats,
>        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.
>
>However, 
>        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
>the horse...
>                          
>That comes a little cheaper...
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:39 EST 1996
Article: 43555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 96 23:29:09 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
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Keywords: 
In article <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net>, "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net> wrote:
>I have to disagree with you guys who feel we should "rough it" in order to
>learn.  I have a coax indicator also... I use it in my vertical miller.  I
>find it absolutely indispensable and a wonderful time saver.
>
>According to your philosophy, anything other than a metal file is a
>luxury.  I guess I should ditch my machine tools.
>
>I think guys who discuss new tools should be able to post their
>discoveries so that other folks can learn as well without fear of
>chastisement... that is the whole idea :-)

Oh Goody!  Can we start a new thread on 'When _I_ learned to work metal, 
I had to use my own teeth!'?

As a relative neophyte, I'd LOVE to have a coax indicator.  I can't 
justify the expense of one of the US made Blakes, and have always wonder 
if the foreign copies were any good.  I can't justify the expense of one 
of those either, but if I'm going to fantasize, it's a little easier.  I 
also appreciate the skill (and patience) required to do things 'the old 
fashioned way'.  I have a few gadgets that are either terminal overkill 
for a home shop, or just aren't as wonderful in practice as the look in 
the catalog.  This newsgroup is a great place to develop a feel for:

1) How to do things with or without the fancy gadgets

2) Which fancy gadgets are useful

3) Which fancy gadgets are more trouble than they are worth

4) Which fancy gadgets are complete junk

In the woodworking newsgroups, there is a constant war between the 
'neanderthals' (who do all their woodworking with handtools) and the 
'Normites' (after Norm Abrams, who's TV program is a showcase for the 
latest laser guided miter saw (no kidding)).  I'd hope we are above that 
sort of sniping. 

Doug White




From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:40 EST 1996
Article: 43556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 15:00:27 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Scott Logan replies

>Atlas was bought by Clausing, though I don't know if they have any
info on the Shaper.

Duh... I knew that (thump). 

I did some digging in the library (Reader's Guide to Periodical Literature
is a wonderful tool...) and found two interesting articles on shapers (the
metal kind, not the wood kind; today "shaper" almost universally means
upside down routers bolted to the underside of a board). Popular Mechanics
had two articles based on the Atlas 7" shaper, first in Feb 1954, p. 234:
"Know your Metal Shaper" by Sam Brown is a mini-textbook for shaper setup
and use. "Contour Work with a Metal Shaper", same author, Popular
Mechanics, Oct 54, p. 219, shows a few more things you can do with one.
Now I want one...

Pete


From hellcat@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:42 EST 1996
Article: 43557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hellcat@ix.netcom.com(Merrick Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 02:11:45 GMT
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(Saved Soul) writes: 
>
>If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

    Looks like you're keeping yourself occupied....
    If I go to hell, I hope I burn well. And I'll see you there.


From Metaliks@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:43 EST 1996
Article: 43558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glen Gardner <Metaliks@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 40 Tonne Power Press "Daisy" and dont know what to do ?
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 19:41:09 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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To: bohigas@aol.com

Hi Alberto,
 My names Glen in Pittsburgh PA. Roger suggested jewelry items 
and that a possibility but "cloisonne" doesn't relate to presswork. I 
do have friends in the area that make simple, crude, but functional 
dies and press copper, sterling,aluminum into jewelery.
Anyway, I make copper weathervanes. They are hand hammered but 
I have had visions of pressing light gauge copper1/2 shells under a 
press. I havn't calculated how much force I need to squezze these 
yet. 40 tons sounds light but I suppose if the pieces were small it 
might do. What kind of work do you normally do? Give a buzz.
Glen G.


From gel@anchor.ho.att.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:44 EST 1996
Article: 43559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gel@anchor.ho.att.com (G.LENNER(HOH722)938)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted: Walker Turner access. and parts
Date: 4 Dec 1996 18:27:38 GMT
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Dear metalworkers,

I'm restoring a 16 in. Walker Turner vertical band saw. This model,
(MBN1105) dates from the 1940's, has backgears for metal cutting and
cast iron wheel covers that are crescent shaped.

I am looking for accessories... rip fence, mitre gauge, screw feed, etc.
I would also like to find source(s) of parts and Walker-Turner expertise
if possible.

Any leads would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jerry Lenner
(908) 949-8115
gel@anchor.ho.att.com


From bc317@mail.lafn.org Tue Dec 17 14:07:45 EST 1996
Article: 43560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ed. Roberts" <bc317@mail.lafn.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Working Links
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 15:02:59 -0800
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Heres another link that may be useful to many.

http://www.manufacturing.net

I think I got all the letters in this time.  This is a link to about 10 
magazines involved in the metalworking trade.

Ed. Roberts



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:46 EST 1996
Article: 43561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 09:05:21 -0600
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I have seen slow, cold diamond laps in action.  Besides putting an
absolute mirror finish on HSS bits, they can lap hardened steel parts and
do all sorts of cool shop tasks.  The wheels are about $100, but you will
probably need 2 grits.  Any respectable machinist can make an adjustable
angle table, spindle, and drive train and have a very nice tool for $300.

Kurt Bjorn



From rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us Tue Dec 17 14:07:47 EST 1996
Article: 43562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us (Richard Hal Buxton)
Subject: steam turbines
Message-ID: <E27tu1.1Cv8@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 20:49:12 GMT
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 19

Hi everyone,
Some time ago I started on a Tiny Power 5HP steam engine.  At
the same time I started on a 5 HP boiler.  Of late I have
shifted my efforts to the boiler as I reconsider the engine.  A
friend of mine suggested I build a five HP steam turbine
instead of the piston drived engine.  I have seen the 5 HP
steam turbines offered by an outfit in Florida I believe.  It
had four vanes in the turbine set at right angles to the
shaft.  I wondered if there was a better arrangement for the
blades and if there was an advantage to having more blades?  I
also wondered if someone had built something like this before
and had some ideas or plans.  Suggestions on any of the above
issues is appreciated.  By the way, the boiler has no
superheaters so it will provide saturated steam at about 100
psi.  I plan to power a generator with it.  Another reason for
the turbine in that it turns at a speend closer to that of a
generator.
TIA
Rick


From gbrown@anise.ee.cornell.edu Tue Dec 17 14:07:48 EST 1996
Article: 43563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gbrown@ee.cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10k S.B thread dial
Date: 10 Dec 1996 13:17:38 GMT
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I bought one of these from plaza a couple of years ago and
have been pretty satisfied.

Geoffrey Brown

In article <32b054ce.2203573@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com says...
>
>On 9 Dec 1996 22:49:17 GMT, wbtty@aol.com wrote:
>
>>am looking for a complete thread dial for a south bend 10 k lathe
>>cat no cl810nk
>>any assistance would be a help 
>>thanks
>
>Well, you can call South Bend, but I understand they want over $200
>for it.  You can also call Joe Bergamo at Plaza Machinery.  He is
>making new Thread Dials for SUBSTANTIALLY less.
>
>South Bend Lathe Corp.  (South Bend Lathes)
>400 W. Sample St.
>South Bend, IN 46601-2892
>Tel. 219-289-7771
>Fax  219-236-1210
>
>Plaza Machinery Co.
>P.O. Box 14
>Bethel, VT  05032
>Joe Bergamo
>Tel. 802-234-9673
>Fax  802-234-6325
>E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com
>
>Scott Logan
>ssl@loganact.com
>www.loganact.com



From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:49 EST 1996
Article: 43564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB:  Die Filer
Date: 10 Dec 1996 13:03:40 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: gunner312@aol.com

I noticed in the last issue of Home Shop Machinist that
Metal Lathe Accessories is now selling a die filer kit
of castings.  Based on my previous experience with their
stuff, it ought to be first-rate and reasonably priced.




From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:51 EST 1996
Article: 43565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 11:40:24 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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Message-ID: <58jsk4$1c@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net> <19961209211500.QAA22779@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ACA760.73CE@u.washington.edu>
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In article <32ACA760.73CE@u.washington.edu>,
   "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>All maufacturing is done to spec's.  Whether by the importer or dealer. 
>The manufacturer just follows orders and gets the job by price quote.

Maybe the way things work, in fantasyland.


From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:52 EST 1996
Article: 43566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New Lathe
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 09:17:37 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
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Tony, since you are now an experienced lathe hand, I really think you will
do well shopping for a used Western machine.  It's a lot of fun, and if
you are in it for the fun, not $$, you can take your time.  Who knows, you
might stumble upon a real gem.

Be sure your new lathe accepts 5C collets... there are so many wonderful
tools, jigs, and accessories for 5C collets that I almost hate using a 3
jaw chuck rather than collets.  It's nice being able to slap some stock in
a collet and know it will run darn near dead true.

Watch for 3 vs 1 phase motors.  3 phase tools run sweet with true 3 phase
power, though, and a rotary convertor in your attic might be a nice
investment.  When I want to do some work, I throw a big GE switch box
which starts my phase convertor in my attic and provides juice to a
3-phase "station" of receptacles in my shop.  The only noise is a nice,
smooth hum.  Motors start, stop, and reverse instantly with no start
capacitors or clutches to break or wear out.

Kurt Bjorn

> Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net> wrote in article
<32AD70D6.1AB0@moa.net>...
> Your opinions please:
> I have a lathe that I purchased from ENCO 9x20" ( no flames please):-)a 
> few years back. Believe it or not it has served me well. It has run well

> with no  problems to speak of my indicating tools even tell me it has 
> good accuracy(BTW they are mitutoyo). However sometime in 1997 I would 
> like to up grade to a 12-14" swing. I have about $ 2500.00 - 2800.00 to 
> spend. I really don't want to go back to Enco. I would probably just
keep 
> the one I have and save the $$ if that was my only option. I need your 
> guys help. Is there a brand that I should look at? I am a hobbiest and 
> this lathe will probably  be used on the weekends. I want to make and 
> intelligent decision and I have seen many brands discussed on this ng.
> 
> OR am I better off to just buy used? Or should I save for another 2
years 
> and get in the $4000-5000 range.
> The brands of lower end  in most catalogs I see look like the same ones 
> enco sells with just different names.
> 
> Thanks for all your help.
> Tony
> 


From pdc5y@avery.med.Virginia.EDU Tue Dec 17 14:07:53 EST 1996
Article: 43567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pdc5y@avery.med.Virginia.EDU (Preston D. Carter)
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
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Tom  writes:
> rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > How do you keep your welding rods dry?
> > 
> > Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > Ron Norris
> they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing
Another method, if you live in a humid place, is to find an old
refrigerator that doesn't work, we had a smaller dorm type,
disconnect the compresser and the switch that makes the light
go off when you close the door, install a low watt bulb and you
have yourself a hot box.
-- 
Preston Carter 
pdc5y@virginia.edu


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:55 EST 1996
Article: 43568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum/steel cylinders (was "automotive radial engines")
Date: 10 Dec 1996 15:32:52 GMT
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John Johnson says

>When they figured out how to cast aluminum head and fins onto a
steel barrel without having the differential expansion when it got
hot separate them and overheat the cylinder, then they were able to
build radial rather than rotary engines.

Do you know more details of how steel barrels were mated to aluminum
fins? I am aware of something known as the "Al-Fin" process, patented
by Fairchild Aircraft just before WW2. Obviously the industry had working
radials well before then (P&W, Wright, just about everybody else) but
before that, did they use aluminum muffs on steel liners, or all-steel
barrels, or what?

I dug out ancient SAE papers on Al-Fin, and it's a pretty interesting
process.
After the war, it was applied to aluminum-finned automotive drum brakes,
especially for racing applications. The thing about Al-Fin brakes or
engine
cylinders is that there is no discontinuity between the iron or steel and
the
aluminum, as you would have with a press fit or shrink fit. The ferrous
inner
bits are bonded to the aluminum outer bits by a neat trick. First, they
dip the
cast liner in molten aluminum, holding it at a certain time-temperature
history.
This "tins" ("aluminumizes?") the outer surface of the liner with
aluminum,
which also diffuses into the iron for a short distance. Then the tinned
liner
is placed in the mold, I think preheated, and the outer aluminum jacket is
cast
around it. The new aluminum re-melts the "tinned" surface, which has
diffused
into the iron from the tinning step, so you have a continuous piece of
metal.
Going outward, you have first all cast iron, then cast iron with some
aluminum,
then cast iron with more aluminum, finally no cast iron and all aluminum.
As a result, there is no heat transfer barrier and these things conduct
away
heat much better than shrink or press fits. I looked into this but when I
realized I couldn't do this in the kitchen sink, I dropped the idea. Would
have
been nice to make Al-Fin replacement cylinders for old Porsches though.

Mainly I did all this digging because I needed Porsche racing drum brakes
for
one of my cars. In the 1950s, Porsche used fairly huge (280 mm inside
diameter, 60 mm shoe width) drums on their race cars and Carreras. I first
thought these were Al-Fin patents, but on cutting apart a scrap one, I saw
that it wasn't the case. The inner liner is press fit into a forged
aluminum
drum. So there's a heat barrier but there was no way around it because on
Porsches and VWs, the drum effectively forms the center of a two-piece
wheel; the drum has the wheel bearing seats machined directly into the
aluminum, and the wheel lugs attach to its periphery. As a result, the
drum
is stressed in bending when going around turns, unlike a conventional
drum with a forged steel hub carrier, where the drum is just like a big
washer clamped between wheel and hub. So Porsche forged their
drums for good reason.

Recently somebody with more enthusiasm than engineering sense
tried to make repro drums by casting them out of ordinary aluminum
356 alloy, using the same material thickness as the forged drums. The
result was ring-shaped cracksbetween hub and bolt circle, in such a
way that if the crack went all the way through to the inner surface,
the entire wheel, tire, and most of the drum could break off the car. A
little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

Pete



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:07:56 EST 1996
Article: 43569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 09:40:18 -0600
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The coax indicator would seem to me to be worthless for setup in a
four-jaw... I do exactly what you fellows are doing, namely indicate by
hand, move jaws, etc.  I wouldn't do it any other way.  But for setups in
the vertical mill, it is a whole 'nother story.  Truly centering a round
piece beneath the spindle to well below a thou takes 30 seconds with a
coax indicator.  With edge finders and normal indicators it is a pain in
the butt.

I think the idea is to selectively choose among "new" tooling those items
which are so darn neat that they will have a valuable place in our shops
for years to come.  I truly believe the coax indicator is one of them.  We
also need to point out those tools which look good but have limited
application for the average shop.

Kurt Bjorn

> 
> Don't know if you mean me, but I was outlining the fact that I can
usually
> achieve the same end result without the wait for the equipment to
arrive.
> I can indicate an edge in the milll or I can use and edge finder to do
it.
> I use the edge finder every time. To suggest that we toss everything but
a
> file is purile.
> 
> I, for one, was not chastizing, merely pointing out that these things
were
> done manually once, so why not again.
> 
> By all means, if you have the coax, use it, advocate and laud it's
> benefits, but allow us older farts the right to say how we use our head
> instead of pocket books to achieve the same thing.
> 
> Peter
> Now where did I put the MSC catalog?
> 


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:07:58 EST 1996
Article: 43570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 19:54:23 -0800
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:


>Mostly 2M, some 6M (until the prevelance of old 50MHz IF TVs
>in the apartment building at MSU  almost got me lynched - or
>worse).  
>
>Built all my own stuff.  Building it was much more fun than
>talking on it, probably why I'm not still doing it.  Was a
>lot less expensive than horses, sailboats, or machine shops.

Got an old HF radio kicking about ?  
We could start a metalworking group on HF.

Jens


From gemcutter@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:00 EST 1996
Article: 43571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tapers with compound ?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 01:51:18 -0500
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Walt Black wrote:
> 
> I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound.
> Do you bring the carriage back to a stop, then advance the compound into
> the work at the proper angle then cut with the carriage advance,
> repeating until the taper is cut?  Obviously you cnat just feed the
> compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.  I have
> the South Bend Book on using a lathe and it doesn't explain this very
> well. As a new amateur machinist I would appreciate a somewhat detailed
> explanation please.
> 
> Walt Black
> wblack@fgi.netHi Walt , Let's see if I can help. First set The compound at the desired 
angle. You will cut the taper using the compound slide. Set your toolbit 
so that it will cut a proper chip as you traverse across your workpiece 
with the compound slide. Bring the carriage close to the workpiece and 
lock the carraige in position. Now present your cutting tool to the 
workpiece using the crosslide. Make your cuts using the compound slide. 
gradually dial in with your crosslide untill you reach the length you 
desire. Good Luck.


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:01 EST 1996
Article: 43572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 16:30:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I just called Clausing. They have parts lists for the shapers (not that
anything is still available, mind you) but say they were shipped without
user manuals. Does anybody have any other manufacturer's documentation for
these critters? An accessory list/catalog would be nice too; they must
have had some goodies to go with it. Seems to me they must have had a user
manual of some sort. 

I'd be glad to pay for a photocopy to see what I'm getting into here.

Pete


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:02 EST 1996
Article: 43573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What About a "Jet" Benchmill?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:02:00 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58i7jm$dc9@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>,
rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>    A local machine dealer has a "Jet" brand bench-top size mill coming
>up for sale this week. I get first chance at it....but the only trouble
>is that I have never heard of it. Probably it is offshore - but that
>can mean anything. Anyone have any knowledge of this make? Only thing I
>know so far is that it is about a 3' bed, 110 or 220 single phase,
>comes with basic collets, drill chuck, vise, and a bent lead screw!
>    He wants to get 600 to 700??? What do you think?
>   

If it is a Mill/Drill then buy one *new* from Harbor Fright or Enco for
$699 when on special. They come with drill chuck, hold down set, vise and
a few other bits and pieces.

Sounds like $450 would be a good deal, anything more and let someone else
have the bargain. Call Jet and ask for a price on the new lead screw.
(206) 383-8705, that'll help you make up your mind in a hurry.

If it is the benchtop knee mill then grab it for $800 as they normally run
around $2K.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:03 EST 1996
Article: 43574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:01:52 GMT
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In article <19961210022600.VAA01706@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
plalbrecht@aol.com writes:

>I don't know much about shaper operations. I guess I'll get vol. 2 of the
>Moltrecht book. What exactly is the "spline tool" somebody mentioned? I
>don't think it's in there, unless that's another name for a keyway tool.
>There is one tool included that appears to be like a normal tool except
>it's extended outward, sort of an L-shape, which I guess is the keyway
>tool. 
>
>

Only one thing you really need to know about shapers, keep your hands out
of the way. You will be amazed at how far past the end of the set srtroke
they can advance to chase carelessly placed hands and fingers. Chomp,
gone.

Peter
Who's true love is a shaper.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:04 EST 1996
Article: 43575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:01:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58ht7f$j2u@newshost.netrix.com>, holder@netrixgw.netrix.com
(Bruce Holder) writes:

>  Peter, I'll lend you my 25 tooth gear if you'll ream the bore out to
>a true 14 mm before you send it back.
>
>

I assume this *is* a lathe gear. Why not bore it out yourself?

As for gears try...

Stock Drive Products
Ph (516) 328-3300

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:06 EST 1996
Article: 43576 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:02:03 GMT
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In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
hemp4peas@aol.com writes:

>HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
>machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
>was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would
be
>greatly appreciated.
>hemp4peas@aol.com
>
>

Ask away, we do it every day.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:08 EST 1996
Article: 43577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: the key word...INTERNAL
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:02:06 GMT
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In article <32ACD24A.42F9@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>do they make a bull nose center with a hole in it???
>if there is no hole how do you cut an INTERNAL grove??
>there would be some sort of an interference problem
>between the bull nose and the groving tool
>
>

Yup, I'ts called a slotted bull-nose. There is a grooved opening in the
spindle shank and a hole through the center. You use an offset boring bar
with an indexable insert that is mounted vertically similar to some of the
thread cutting inserts. They are made by Thin Bit and are *not* cheap.

For large diameter internal grooves they are *must* especially if it is a
deep groove. The side loading on the steady rest cannot cope well with
deep internal grooves as they are deigned to absorb high vertical loads
away from the lathe bed and not loads acting across the bed.

These cutters are not for the faint of heart either as you are operating
blind. It needs a great faith in the accuracy of the dials for getting the
correct position, width and depth of groove. Ideally you plug the tube at
the chuck end and slop a good amount of heavy cutting oil inside. The
slotted bull-nose center keeps the fluid level a bit below half way so the
cut is well lubricated.

Because it is a narrow cutter it needs high speeds especially for high
carbon tool steels and stuff like DOM steels used for making hydraulic
cylinders with deep, narrow internal groove retaining rings.

Gee Andy, and I thought you knew *everything*.

Peter
PS I made all that up , cos I missed the magic word "internal" in the
original post. <bg>


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:09 EST 1996
Article: 43578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:01:54 GMT
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In article <01bbe6a2$3b18ebc0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net>, "Les Whitaker"
<hoofe@intecnet.net> writes:

>Cecil, from the undernet I gather that since AOL went to the competitive
>rates, it's been jammed. <<following is commercial based on personal
>experience>> I wouldn't have AOL again for free. They have a nasty habit
of
>y

Since going unlimited time I still have not had a busy signal, prime times
or no. Still seems a good deal to me. I tried Netcom but their lines were
busy more times than not. Besides they also only *give* 40 hours of prime
time per month, 8am-12pm, AOL says unlimited and that's what you get. I'm
a happy little Vegemite and staying with em.

Peter


Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:10 EST 1996
Article: 43579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WhAt'S a LoGaN
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:01:58 GMT
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In article <32AC988D.3896@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>probably not (but you never know, i am not perfect)
>
>

Hmmmmm, but trying!

Peter
:)>


From EDCP78A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:11 EST 1996
Article: 43580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 15:17:51 GMT
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Ok, ok, I got the cfm reversed, and the NON dropped out when I talked 
about the oil, it should have been non-detergent.  Sorry about that.
Alex



From jbottoms@world.std.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:13 EST 1996
Article: 43581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jbottoms@world.std.com (John W Bottoms)
Subject: 9x20 Lathe Vertical Slide Ass'y
Message-ID: <E27EB3.HM@world.std.com>
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:13:51 GMT
Lines: 6

My lathe is an Enco 9x20 and I'd like to try milling on it using
a vertical slide assembly.  The Grizzly engineer says theirs will
only fit with some serious rework.  Anyone know of a vertical to
fit the 9x20?

-jb


From steves@emailaddress.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:14 EST 1996
Article: 43582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steve Stallings" <steves@emailaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 15:25:51 GMT
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Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote in article
<58j01r$1t8@newsreader.wustl.edu>...
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> : G'day,
> 
> : Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting
three
> : NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
> : diameter hole through them.
> 
> : Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length.
I
> : don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to
machine
> : them to the exact same length in the lathe. 
> 
> Gee, why?  I do this all the time, and usually get it to +- .005" without
> even trying.  I'm sure I could get it to +- .001" without a lot of hard
> work.  How exactly do you need them?  Are you sure that the motor housing
> is cut to that kind of accuracy?  I see people doing this kind of stuff
> all the time.  Grind the spacers to +- .0001", finish them like gage
blocks,
> and then put them on a motor that is built with tolerances of .010".
> 
> 						Jon
> 
> 
I assume that Peter is concerned about mounting stepper motors such
that the shaft of the motor is exactly in line with the driven shaft.
It is indeed tricky business and is usually avoided by using a flex
coupling or a belt drive system. High torque flex couplings suitable 
for pecision work can cost over $50 each.

If you need spacers that are the same length but the exact length is
not critical try this: Surface finish both sides of a block large
enough for four spacers. Drill the four holes; THEN cut it into four 
pieces and do any additional work required for the final shape.

Steve Stallings
steves@emailaddress.com



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:15 EST 1996
Article: 43583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 09:31:10 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 22
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OK Sherline, I have heard nothing but good!  Please, Please, <beg, whine>
make us a 11 X 24 or 12 X 36 quality American machine with moderate bells
and whistles!  Your current tools are too small for me.  I will buy a
larger machine, and gladly cough up moderate $$ for one.  If I had big $$
I'd already own a spankin' new Monarch or Hardinge.

Is a larger lathe out of the question?


Kurt Bjorn

> Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid]) wrote in article
<32aa9f7c.101815904@news.pacbell.net>...
> Bryan. Not only is the Sherline made in the USA, it's made in San
> Diego County.  Head a little North to San Marcos, and visit the
> Factory.  Tell Joe Martin about what you were told, and take a look at
> one of the finest machines around. He'll be glad to show you, too! 
> OTOH, if you aren't up to the travel from UCSD, then visit the
> Sherline Web Site at
> http://www.electriciti.com/~sherline/
> I think you'll buy the Sherline!



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:16 EST 1996
Article: 43584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ANDY'S  WRONG EMAIL ADDRESS
Date: 9 Dec 1996 03:00:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AB0B9A.E1C@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>peter this does not apply to you<w>
>
>

I figured you kill filed all my stuff so I never bother. <g>

Peter


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:17 EST 1996
Article: 43585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 20:29:42 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have a SB 7" shaper fpr sale, if anyone is interested.  It does not have
a vise, but it will hold .0005 tolerance.  Excellent condition.  Located
near Oklahoma City.
Price $800

Cecil in OK


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:18 EST 1996
Article: 43586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:23:37 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
> machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
> was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
> hemp4peas@aol.comGo look in the FAQ , there is a section there on machining plastics.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From jamiefoster@fix.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:20 EST 1996
Article: 43587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jamie Foster <jamiefoster@fix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 08:14:12 -0800
Organization: C&C Jewelers
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39711 rec.collecting.dolls:30291 rec.collecting.ornaments:49 rec.collecting.paper-money:3119 rec.collecting.phonecards:8653 rec.collecting.postal-history:2307 rec.collecting.sport:93 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:193990 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:113204 rec.collecting.sport.football:142971 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:103913 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14187 rec.collecting.stamps:41144 rec.collecting.villages:5710 rec.crafts:99 rec.crafts.beads:11804 rec.crafts.brewing:110274 rec.crafts.carving:1038 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3145 rec.crafts.glass:4199 rec.crafts.jewelry:16181 rec.crafts.marketplace:10870 rec.crafts.metalworking:43587 rec.crafts.misc:27281 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11557 rec.crafts.pottery:3297 rec.crafts.quilting:118 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2195 rec.crafts.textiles:126 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1053 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5432 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:95626 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:34051

Oh yeah, about 10 posts later, now I remember why I thought moderating
rec.crafts.jewelry was such a good idea!

Jamie
-- 
jamiefoster@fix.net
C&C Jewelers				Cypress Landing Shops
http://www.ccjewelers.com		http://www.clshops.com
580 Cypress #N4, Pismo Beach, CA 93449	P.O. Box 1132, Pismo Beach, CA
93448
(805) 773-0110	FAX (both) 805-773-4288	(805) 773-0101




From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:21 EST 1996
Article: 43588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 10 Dec 1996 18:51:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T Network Wireless Systems Business Unit
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Distribution: usa
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In article <32ace680.0@mothra.westworld.com>,
Fitch R. Williams <frwillia@ptw.com> wrote:

>Not packet radio - I did this in the early sxties - although
>some were doing TTY using FSK at the time.

Are you sure that you were not playing with Radio Teletype?? (RTTY).

I dont think that packet existed until the 70 or 80s. Packet as
we know it today requires a Terminal Node Controller (TNC) that
has a microprocessor in it. Hint: Micros happened in th 70s.

Digital communications modes are fairly common on today bands.
Packet radio is only one of several mode. The main distinction
of Packet, is that it allows one user to have virtual connections
to many other. Typically that one user would be a buliten board 
service (BBS).

>Built all my own stuff.  Building it was much more fun than
Rarely done today.

>lot less expensive than horses, sailboats, or machine shops.
Very true.

Anyway, we are way off the subject of this NG.....

Chuck Sherwood N9QZT
-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Tue Dec 17 14:08:22 EST 1996
Article: 43589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!surfnet.nl!swidir.switch.ch!serra.unipi.it!pappo.dm.unipi.it!palama
From: palama@dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lautard Tool and Cutter Grinding Jig
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:53:38 GMT
Organization: Universita' di Pisa
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58k832$1j3m@serra.unipi.it>
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gunner312@aol.com wrote:
: I'm building it right now.  Looks pretty good so far.

Hi,
could you tell us something more about this jig? 
What kind of tools/cutters can it grind? 
How long does it take to make it? 
How about the cost?
Where can plans be obtained from?
Is it easier to make than the Quorn?

Thanks in advance for answering

Ciao
Antonio Palama`


From bbeizer@gnn.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:24 EST 1996
Article: 43590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:36:18
Organization: Analysis
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com>
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>In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>hemp4peas@aol.com writes:
>
>>HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
>>machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
>>was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
>>greatly appreciated.
>>hemp4peas@aol.com

Here's the short course:

1.  Make believe it's brass and shape your tools accordingly.

2.  Speed is not critical as long as you don't allow the plastic to
    get hot (or even warm).

3.  CRC or WD-40 is a fine lubricant/coolant.

4.  Tools should be very sharp and honed to a polish. 

5.  The softer the plastic, the more acute the rake angles.  For 
    soft stuff such as teflon, cutting tools are shaped almost with 
    same rake as for woodworking.

6.  Some plastics (e.g., Corian) are abrasive.  Formica wants to be worked
    very fast with carbides and very low feeds.  

7-8-9-10.  Sharp!  Sharp! Sharp! Sharp!  Hone! Hone! Hone! Hone!

11.  Don't agonize.  Generally, plastic is very forgiving as long as you 
     don't overfeed.  

Boris



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
TEL:  215-572-5580
FAX:  215-886-0144
Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:25 EST 1996
Article: 43591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:31:49 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
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> Just a thought: I wouldn't expect ex-missile gyros to last long. They
>must of course run well while they run, but the missile's flight-time
>is very short.
>
Ah, but they have to work regularly when  tested, both on the ground,
and in flight, for years, before they are finally used.  Also, of
course, they are designed to work under enormous "G"-loads when used,
so they should work for a long time in hobby use.
Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:26 EST 1996
Article: 43592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Started
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Scott A. McGillivray wrote:
> 
> Greetings!
> 
>     I have always had a facination with swords and ancient weaponry and
> armour.  I have recently began to look into blacksmithing as a hobby.  I
> have bought a book called "The Complete Bladesmith."  It is okay, but it
> sure leaves a lot of questions unanswered.  I hope to glean lots of info
> from this group.  For starters, I am looking into equipment pricing.  My
> first question is, how big an anvil should one look at buying for sword
> making and how much should one expect to pay for it?  The book suggested
> between 300 and 500 lbs.  However a local smith said he never used one
> bigger than 150 lbs (then again, he never made swords!)
>    Your input is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Scott A. McGillivray
> 
> Prince Albert, Saskatchewan

Now, I haven't made a sword (not even a knife!), but it sure strikes me as an
insanely difficult place to start. I would suggest getting a copy of "The New Edge
of the Anvil" by Jack Andrews and pursue some basic forging projects to build
skills. I think this will give you a sword which will satisfy you much sooner than
trying a sword right off. There are lots of other books out there that are also
good. 

Get a book list from Norman Larson Books:
larbooks@seldon.terminus.com 
I'm not sure if you being in Canada and Norm being in the US adds any complication
to buying from him, but he has virtually all of the smithing books available.

I think that an anvil weighing 100 pounds is a little on the light side (assuming
you don't need portability). 150 pounds will probably work fine. On the other hand,
there is a lot of truth to "the larger the better". You can always make small bicks
for a large anvil; you can't make a small anvil larger! I don't see any specifics
to sword making that require a large anvil, but I'm no expert. I'm quite happy with
my 250 pounder.


-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From abraden@netusa1.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:27 EST 1996
Article: 43593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: art braden <abraden@netusa1.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT DOES HSM STAND FOR?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 23:42:34 -0800
Organization: NetUSA1 Inc.	
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32ABC2EA.351D@netusa1.net>
References: <19961122123300.HAA29633@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58fb73$eut@clark.zippo.com>
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Ken Wilhoite wrote:
> 
> pdnrd@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >IT'S OBVIOUSLY SOME KIND OF MAGAZINE,
> >I WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT THEM IF SOMEONE HAS THEIR PHONE#
> >SOUNDS LIK E A GOOD MAG.
> >THANKS FOR READING, HAVE A GREAT DAY!
> >PAUL NORDHAUGEN
> 
> HSM = Home Shop Machinist, a magazine.
> Address:
> 2779 Aero Park Drive
> Traverse City, MI 49686
> (800) 327-7377
> It is a very usful and entertaining magazine.  While I haven't
> built many of their projects, I usually find useful machining tips and
> tricks in every issue..

You can visit their web page at :
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:28 EST 1996
Article: 43594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:49:04 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32adbc6e.305864430@news.pacbell.net>
References: <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <58aapd$7ms@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <01bbe6ab.e2dc38e0$1bc2c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>
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The old Lapidary magazines, in the 50's, for example, assumed that you
could not buy the machines or tools you needed, Therefore, there were
lots of build-it articles. One technique that stuck in my mind, is
using a copper plate as the grinding surface for a vertical grinder.
Back it up with a steel plate for support. Spread grit, diamond or
silicon carbide, onto the surface of the annealed copper, and use a
hard roller under high pressure to force the grit into the surface.
Use it with a mist or drip lubrication, and one of these wil last for
years.  Cheap enough to make several, for different grit sizes.
Certainly lots cheaper than $100, even if you have to buy a supply of
the grits. If the plate gets scored, or worn, just chuck it up in the
lathe and surface it, then re-charge. 
>I have seen slow, cold diamond laps in action.  Besides putting an
>absolute mirror finish on HSS bits, they can lap hardened steel parts and
>do all sorts of cool shop tasks.  The wheels are about $100, but you will
>probably need 2 grits.  Any respectable machinist can make an adjustable
>angle table, spindle, and drive train and have a very nice tool for $300.
>
>Kurt Bjorn
>

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:08:30 EST 1996
Article: 43595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!torn!kone!news.ccs.queensu.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Filling holes in charms?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:10:19 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1012961410190001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <32A31E1A.7446@sunstroke.sdsu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <32A31E1A.7446@sunstroke.sdsu.edu>, Marlene DeMers
<mdemers@sunstroke.sdsu.edu> wrote:

> Hi,
> I am into making collage pins with charms, etc.  Some of the 
> charms only are sold with holes for hanging and I want to glue 
> them on the pin base for different designs.  Is there product 
> that I can use to fill in the hole that would match the brass 
> charm?  I would prefer not soldering them.
> Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
> Sincerely,
> Marlene

When making some of the small brass parts for my model cannons I use
silver solder to join the components. The parts are then pickled in a weak
sulfuric (15%) acid solution to remove the flux and then buffed to a
mirror finish. Although not an exact match for colour, the final result
looks very clean. I'm sure that if you looked around you may find an alloy
that is closer in colour to the brass (such as SilFos, or maybe a low temp
brazing alloy).

I originally tried some lead based solder and it was ugly , discolored,
and ran all over the part.

You may also be able to remove the hanging loop (by snipping or sawing)
and buff the charm after trimming. This option requires no soldering or
brazing.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:08:31 EST 1996
Article: 43596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!torn!kone!news.ccs.queensu.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rusting Metal [deliberately]
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:14:57 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1012961414570001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <57mvfm$nrb@juliana.sprynet.com> <329FD8FE.2222@earthlink.net> <32A0FCFC.60F8@metronet.com> <32A34B03.59AB@execpc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <32A34B03.59AB@execpc.com>, Bob Stout <sdesign@execpc.com> wrote:

> > > >
> > > > My wife and I like the old/lived-in type look. Used brick makes up our
> > > > fireplace and our outdoor walkway. In addition to enjoying the 'look',
> > > > it keeps us from wanting to do harm to the kids when they add some
> > > > additional unplanned character to a piece.  8^)
> > > >
> > > > We are planning to have a blacksmith create the body for a coffee
> > > > table and we'll add the maple wormwood top and middle shelf. Rather
> > > > than have 'new' looking metal, we'd like to 'play' with a rusted
> > > > finish. We have both seen metal objects sold in a deliberately rusted
> > > > form (usually art), and short of leaving them outside for a year,
> > > > would like to know how to achieve a 'quick' rusted appearance. We were
> > > > wondering if painting a weak acid solution on the metal would work?
> > > >
> 
> I once left a bottle of Ferric Chloride (Radio Shack $2.49), for etching
> circuit boards, open on a counter top one day...a day or so later, every
> thing metal on the counter within a 2 foot radius was rustier than a
> year outside.
> 
> Bob Stout

If you leave the metal bits in proximity to hydrochloric acid vapours they
will develop a coating of rust very quickly.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 14:08:33 EST 1996
Article: 43597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chaos.crhc.uiuc.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!cwis-20.wayne.edu!bob.pass.wayne.edu!mje
From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: More Taig reports
Date: 10 Dec 1996 20:01:38 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <58kfj2$go7@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bob.pass.wayne.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I'm having an absolute ball with this little lathe! I just received the 
milling adapter, and it's an excellent, solid piece of equipment. INexpensive,
yet accurate and well built. Can't beat it. 

Last time I spoke with Taig they told me they're working on a feedscrew
as well, so threadcutting will come one day. Neat.

If you're looking for a small athe with minimum cash outlay, this is 
an excellent deal. Between Taig and Sherline we have two really exellent 
domestic choices for the hobbyist looking to get into small machining.

--mike


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:08:34 EST 1996
Article: 43598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 19:18:36 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <58kd2c$ea4@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961208203914.21647A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca> <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Michael Hanz (AAFRadio@erols.com) wrote:
: If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump 
: sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from 
: it any day of the week (unless you have a racing engine.)  All you need 
: is a long hose and a way to get to the intake manifold.  I've used it for 
: everything from evacuating A/C systems to "debubbling" epoxy and it seems 
: to work just fine.  Maybe not ideal, but it's cheap!

YIKES!  Not only is this now illegal, but haven't you heard what happens
when you decompose Freons by combustion?  You get HydroChloric Acid,
HydroFluoric acid, and maybe even Phosgene!  When evacuating an A/C system,
you always get Freon residues, at least from refrigerant dissolved in the
oil!
>From  your address, I think I live far enough away to be safe, but I'm
worried for your neighbors.
						Jon



From cynthia_shuster@berlex.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:35 EST 1996
Article: 43599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!peerfeed.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!204.191.160.4!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!news-w.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!is.berlex.com!usenet
From: cindy <cynthia_shuster@berlex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:39:54 -0500
Organization: Berlex Labs
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32ADBC8A.7AA7@berlex.com>
References: <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>
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To: Saved Soul <zoner@goodnet.com>
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39723 rec.collecting.dolls:30301 rec.collecting.ornaments:50 rec.collecting.paper-money:3122 rec.collecting.phonecards:8656 rec.collecting.postal-history:2308 rec.collecting.sport:94 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:194039 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:113229 rec.collecting.sport.football:143006 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:103932 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14191 rec.collecting.stamps:41152 rec.collecting.villages:5712 rec.crafts:100 rec.crafts.beads:11807 rec.crafts.brewing:110289 rec.crafts.carving:1039 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3146 rec.crafts.glass:4202 rec.crafts.jewelry:16184 rec.crafts.marketplace:10874 rec.crafts.metalworking:43599 rec.crafts.misc:27290 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11560 rec.crafts.pottery:3299 rec.crafts.quilting:119 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2196 rec.crafts.textiles:127 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1054 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5433 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:95646 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:34056

Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

I make wonderful, handmade gifts and "give of myself".  Why don't you
get a life of your own and leave the rest of us alone.  Obviously you
have too much time on your hands if you are hasseling us.  I guess what
they say is true about idyllness and the devils' work.


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:36 EST 1996
Article: 43600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 20:20:51 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32adc091.306923331@news.pacbell.net>
References: <32A7E37E.137B@earthlink.net> <19961206222300.RAA29382@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ac6736.1832728@news.sprynet.com> <32ACE300.7D97@spec.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-206-170-219-39.nhwd02.pacbell.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> On 6 Dec 1996 22:23:49 GMT, bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >Dear Jay:
> >
> >An upright solid steel cylinder of 12 " diametre and a length of 6 ft, was
> >
> >elevated with saturated steam by 8 ft, and mechanically locked.
> >
> >On demand the cylinder was released and then crashed down
> >with its full weight into the forming  tool, creating the coin image.
> >A steam cushion was then used to absorb some of the vibration.
> >
> >
> >My question is:
> >
> >What is the tonnage of the RAM ?
> 
> Well, I'm not Jay, but carbon steel has a mass of 0.2833 lbs per cubic
> inch.  Your ram is 8143.008 cubic inches (pi*r^2*l) so the weight is
> 2306.9 lbs or 1046.4 kg.
> 
> All figures from Machinery's Handbook.
> 
> Scott Logan
> ssl@loganact.com
> www.loganact.com
Very true, Scott, but misleading as well.  Impact velocity has a large
effect on the pressure of the hammer, as does the striking area. I
used a 125 pound hammer, falling about 5 feet, to strike 1 inch bronze
medallions.  reducing the drop by as little as an inch or two made a
great deal of difference in the designs I could strike, as does the
surface area of the die "at the instant of impact!"  My 125 pound
hammer routinely did  work that required a 45 ton hydraulic press, and
faster too! Without knowing the die size, and impact area, as well as
the free drop distance, you can't determine the "Tonnage,"  IMHO.
Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:37 EST 1996
Article: 43601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.us.world.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 20:27:46 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32adc70d.308584131@news.pacbell.net>
References: <32af53be.1931636@news.sprynet.com> <19961210150000.KAA18102@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

Pete, take a look at my web site at
http://members.aol.com/lughaid/index.htm
for more shaper info and plans.
Also, I recently got some e-mail from a guy who found plans to convert
this particular shaper to a mill, as well.  Looking for those now.

>I did some digging in the library (Reader's Guide to Periodical Literature
>is a wonderful tool...) and found two interesting articles on shapers (the
>metal kind, not the wood kind; today "shaper" almost universally means
>upside down routers bolted to the underside of a board). Popular Mechanics
>had two articles based on the Atlas 7" shaper, first in Feb 1954, p. 234:
>"Know your Metal Shaper" by Sam Brown is a mini-textbook for shaper setup
>and use. "Contour Work with a Metal Shaper", same author, Popular
>Mechanics, Oct 54, p. 219, shows a few more things you can do with one.
>Now I want one...
>
>Pete

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:08:39 EST 1996
Article: 43602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!torn!kone!news.ccs.queensu.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:43:50 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1012961443500001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <32a35557.633613701@news.islandnet.com> <19961202014701.UAA01149@ladder01.news.aol.com> <584lvk$q4q@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <584lvk$q4q@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>, brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter
Brooks) wrote:

> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> : >QED ?????
> 
> : Latin acronym for "It goes without saying"
> 
> Nope.  You mean "Sine qua non".  I think.
> 
> Pete Brooks

QED is written at the conclusion of a developed proof of a concept to
indicate that the original problem has been resolved. It stands for "quod
erat demonstrandum" which translates into "that which was to be
demonstrated".

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Tue Dec 17 14:08:40 EST 1996
Article: 43603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!metro!metro!news.nsw.CSIRO.AU!peter
From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: nugget.prospect.anprod.csiro.au
Message-ID: <E1vx1t.BMF@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>
Sender: news@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU
Organization: CSIRO Division of Animal Production, Prospect NSW
References: <329bb995.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu> <E1uLBJ.2zz@kepler-eng.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:27:29 GMT
Lines: 16

In article <E1uLBJ.2zz@kepler-eng.com> russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler) writes:
>In article <57v86h$bet@news.vanderbilt.edu>,
>Ron Eastes  <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU> wrote:
>>frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>>
>>Fitch,
>>
>>If it works, it's production. If it doesn't work, you are still testing.
>
>If you're not sure it works it's beta.

Which is when you ship it, to see if the suck^H^H^H^Hcustomers notice. If
they don't report any problems, it's production.

Peter Wiley



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:08:41 EST 1996
Article: 43604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mr.net!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 08:23:53 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <58giak$6fe@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <58bm20$d0t@news4.snfc21.pacbell.net> <19961208171000.MAA14611@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <58bm20$d0t@news4.snfc21.pacbell.net>,
>reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) writes:

>>
>>BTW almost all compressor motors are rated at 1.15 service factor
>>which indicates they can all run continously at rated HP and withstand
>>fluctuations in input voltage and momentary overload (like TDC
>>condition of the pump).  
>>


>I assumed the reverse to this. When a motor is advertised as "compressor
>duty" I thought it meant intermittent and therefore not a good candidate
>for continuous running. That's why I mentioned the C-H as being rated
>specifically for continuous. I thought this was a bit unique for
>compressors.

>Are you sure all "compressor duty" motors mean 1.15 duty factor??

>Peter

I would not say that *all* compressor motors are 1.15 SF.  The vast
majority of the units I have seen are, but not all of them.

After looking through my Grainger catalog, I see that GE makes motors
used on C-H, Sanborn and other compressors.  These are rated at 1.0SF
"compressor duty" which seems somewhat of an oxymoron.

As far as continous duty, that depends upon the type of insulation
used and the temperature rise.  Some motors will say "continous duty",
and others may not state it but can be under the right circumstances,
like in a cool environment, but not when in a 140-degree attic area.

Compressors would rather be running continously rather than rapidly
cycling.  The start windings are much smaller wire than the run
windings and get switched out once the motor is at speed.  In a rapid
cycle situation the start windings are in use much more often and are
likely to burn up.  The little "contractor" compressors with 1-6
gallon tanks are infamous for killing motors due to rapid cycling.

-Reckless



From guest@ionet.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:42 EST 1996
Article: 43605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ionews.ionet.net!usenet
From: guest@ionet.net (guest)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Centaur Forge Catalog
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:21:56 GMT
Organization: IONet
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Hello,
     I was wondering if anyone could tell me the address and phone number to 
get ahold of  a current Centaur Forge Catalog..   Thanks.



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:44 EST 1996
Article: 43606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginners/advanced reading list
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:40:05 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32A83045.76F3@cyberhighway.net>
References: <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> ..... All the
> postings about books I got them off the shelf and have been
> working my way through them again.  It turns out I missed a
> lot the first time through.
> 
> Fitch

Wait until you go thru the the third and fourth time.  Each
time it seems like someone turned on another light.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:45 EST 1996
Article: 43607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:36:33 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32A82F71.1A95@cyberhighway.net>
References: <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu> <19961203164200.LAA09244@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32a64b19.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> billg63475@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >In article <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
> >ed510@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chester A. Roberts, Jr.) writes:
> 
> >>My frustration angst has dropped dramatically and I no
> >>longer fear having to re-center a workpiece.
> 
> >So what do you use to accurately find the edge of the work piece?
> 
> >Bill
> 
> I use an edge finder.  They are inexpensive and very easy to
> use.
> 
> Fitch

I just sprung for a Starrett edge finder ($16) and a Starrett wiggler
($28) set.
Day and night from the cheeeeepies I have.  Took a while to make the
move-but.


-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:46 EST 1996
Article: 43608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: . .lathe or mill...which would I get the most use out of?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 21:23:21 GMT
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On Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:31:41 GMT, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
wrote:

>creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>
>>I work silver by the old
>>method...hammers/stakes/anvils/heat/sweat/cursing..
	.
	.
	.
>>But, keep in mind...what goes around comes around.  There is a new
>>found appreciation for objects made entirely by hand.
>
>>Thats who I am.
>
>>Regards,
>
>>Jim Waggener
>

Jim;

I also do most of my work by the old methods, though probably on a
much finer scale then yours. In working with sterling I wonder if you
wouldn't be better off with either lost wax or sand castings for
finials. If precision is your desire then lost wax can produce very
fine detail. Milling or turning, it would seem to me, would render a
fair amount of lost scrap. When dealing with sterling and gold, I
normaly try to keep scrap to a minimum (prices being what they are). 

When working in steel or brass or bronze there is nothing quite as
satisfying as watching the mill or lathe shave off bits of your blank
and hurl them into the air, on to the bench or floor... but the
thought of those bits being of sterling or gold would bother me a bit.

Just a thought

Steve




From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:47 EST 1996
Article: 43609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Centaur Forge Catalog
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:03:22 -0500
Organization: Netcom
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To: guest <guest@ionet.net>

guest wrote:
> 
> Hello,
>      I was wondering if anyone could tell me the address and phone number to
> get ahold of  a current Centaur Forge Catalog..   Thanks.
Centaur Forge Ltd.
     P.O. Box 340
     117 N. Spring Street
     Burlington, WI 53105-0340
     (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX) 

     Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all
aspects of metalworking are covered. A good,
     well-organized collection. They also publish a magazine, Anvil. 

     Centaur Forge is the source for blacksmithing supplies from tongs
to furnaces. Also a source of horse shoeing supplies.


From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:48 EST 1996
Article: 43610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old Fashioned Anvil?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:04:21 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32ADDE65.15D8@ix.netcom.com>
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To: Kevin Pinkerton <kpinkert@super.zippo.com>

Kevin Pinkerton wrote:
> 
> On 9 Dec 1996 06:18:46 GMT, "Kerry Lange" <kdl@IslandNet.com> wrote:
> 
> >A friend of mine, who doesn't have Internet access, is looking for an old
> >fashioned anvil.  Does anyone know where he can get one.  He lives in
> >Vancouver, BC, Canada and if anyone knows of one near there, please e-mail
> >me.
> >
> They are hard to find! I almost got a 200 pounder for $100, but I
> could not get the the guys house fast enough! Good luck!
Centaur Forge Ltd.
     P.O. Box 340
     117 N. Spring Street
     Burlington, WI 53105-0340
     (414) 763-9175, (414) 763-8350 (FAX) 

     Publications concentrate on forging, blacksmithing, though all
aspects of metalworking are covered. A good,
     well-organized collection. They also publish a magazine, Anvil. 

     Centaur Forge is the source for blacksmithing supplies from tongs
to furnaces. Also a source of horse shoeing supplies.


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:49 EST 1996
Article: 43611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: THE  BIG ONE  + 1930 to 1950 's Air Hammer WTD.
Date: 10 Dec 1996 22:30:39 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Lugheid:

What prompted me to write this article in the first place had to
do with the estimated tonnage of the RAM, its actual past
performance and a comparative performance of more modern
hydraulic or mechanical knuckle presses.

In fact in our workshop in Spain we found samples of work,
which had been carried out on the steam RAM, which would
have required at least four times the available tonnage by modern
machines.

I will be going back during the summer vacation to Spain,
and we will try to fire up the monster, and take some material
samples with us und see what kind of results we are getting.

When this is doen, I will report back my findings to the Forum.
In the mean time, its a great thank you to all these willing people
who have so kindly contributed, and doen all the number 
crunching work for me.

I would be willing to buy an Air Hammer, say around the
75 kg hammer weight, 300 mm stroke,  would you know 
who sells this equipment from the 1930 to 1950's ?

God save America,


Alberto










From jrr0@watson.ibm.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:50 EST 1996
Article: 43612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrr0@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 10 Dec 1996 22:40:23 GMT
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In <32ac970c.251955528@news.iinet.net.au>, phony@see.sig.for.real writes:
>vantonova@aol.com wrote:
>
>>> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>>>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>>>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>>>Why did they ever do it that way?
>>
>>Cooling. The rotating cylinders provide a great method to cool the hot
>>cylinders. Water cooling is a lot heavier, and very ureliable at the time.
>>Also elininates the need of a flywheel (the rotating engine is the
>>flywheel). 
>
> Many thanks every one. One further question: I understand these were
>4-cycle engines, not 2-cycle. Given this, how was the valvegear
>worked? I have seen references to it's being operated by a cam-ring
>fixed to the engine mounting. But such a cam must "rotate" (with
>respect to the cylinders) at the same speed as the crank, whereas a
>4-cycle engine normally rotates its cams at half the crank speed. What
>have I missed here?
>
>--  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
>PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
>    "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au

Rotary engines like the Gnome and the Le Rhone were, I belive, 2 strokes.
That accounts, in part, for their high power/weight ratio.  If you see one
up close, it has *huge* exhaust valves, which are basically the entire top
of the cylinder head.  These are operated via pushrod from the crankcase,
which I suspect has a large diameter multi-lobe cam mounted stationary.

The intake is thru the crankcase, and probably a transfer port of some
kind.  The fuel was mixed with castor oil for lube.  I have seen these
engines run at the Rhinebeck aerodrome in Poughkeepsie, NY, and they
are started by priming them up real rich, and when they fire, a *huge*
cloud of castor oil smoke engulfs the spectators who are sitting 
nearby.  Occasionally the inside of the cowling catches on fire, so 
there is always a fire extinguisher standing by.  They cannot be 
throttled, so either the engine is blipped, or there is a switch 
for shorting out a certain number of plugs.

The castor oil is said to have had a "pronounced laxative effect,"
and the pilots supposedly counteracted this with an on-board
supply of blackberry brandy.  

Seeing one of these machines up close makes one realize just how
crazy the pilots were (are) who flew (fly) them.  The engines look
like they are good for about 10 hours before failure, and the failure
is likely to be catastrophic, indeed.  Materials really have come 
a long way.

Jim


From shockey@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:08:51 EST 1996
Article: 43613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 10 Dec 1996 15:58:01 -0700
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In article <19961207034600.WAA06153@ladder01.news.aol.com> plalbrecht@aol.com writes:
>From: plalbrecht@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
>Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:46:52 GMT

>Re the multibank tank engines -- they were Chrysler straight-sixes, five
>mounted on a ring arrangement. Lots of detail information in an excellent
>book, "Some Unusual Engines" by LJK Setright, pp 81-85. 12000 were built.
>Made 470 hp at 2500 rpm, max torque 1070 lb-ft (!!!) at 1200 rpm.
>Displacement  20.6 liters total. 

Tanks...er...thanks, Pete. I thought they were made up
of GM blocks. I appreciate your correction. 

>Book says it was used in M4 Sherman. So was Continental radial.

Shouldn't that be M-48 Sherman? The ones found in 
just about every small-town municipal park in the US. 
Again, I could be nuts. If so, remain calm,I'll be OK. 
8-) 



--jim	    <shockey@primenet.com>	Idaho, USA


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:52 EST 1996
Article: 43614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 23:18:19 GMT
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In article <58kd2c$ea4@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

>YIKES!  Not only is this now illegal, but haven't you heard what happens
>when you decompose Freons by combustion?  You get HydroChloric Acid,
>HydroFluoric acid, and maybe even Phosgene!  When evacuating an A/C
system,
>you always get Freon residues, at least from refrigerant dissolved in the
>oil!
>From your address, I think I live far enough away to be safe, but I'm
>worried for your neighbors.
>						Jon
>
>

That's the second curiously quaint response I have read from you Jon. May
I suggest you *read* the questions and *think* about them before shooting
>from  the hip, lip or fingers.

Peter



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:08:53 EST 1996
Article: 43615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam turbines
Date: 10 Dec 1996 23:53:10 GMT
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Richard Hal Buxton (rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us) wrote:
: Hi everyone,
: Some time ago I started on a Tiny Power 5HP steam engine.  At
: the same time I started on a 5 HP boiler.  Of late I have
: shifted my efforts to the boiler as I reconsider the engine.  A
: friend of mine suggested I build a five HP steam turbine
: instead of the piston drived engine.  I have seen the 5 HP
: steam turbines offered by an outfit in Florida I believe.  It
: had four vanes in the turbine set at right angles to the
: shaft.  I wondered if there was a better arrangement for the
: blades and if there was an advantage to having more blades?  I

What you want is to look up the Scientific American article on the
breakthrough steam turbine built by (and now my memory is blocked with
Whittle, but that's gas turbines, not steam).  It had a few very good
photos and analysis of how the turbine was built (with simple machine
tools).  I've seen the original unit in the Smithsonian.  I'll try to
get the correct name and the date of the article.  This unit was apparently
the first high speed (18000 RPM) turbine ever built.  This thing looks
eminently buildable in the home shop, but not in one weekend :) !

						Jon



From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:54 EST 1996
Article: 43616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxyacetylene torches
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:03:06 GMT
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6,000 F seems a little high but not much. For sure, 5,300 F can be reached
with an oxidizing (excess of oxygen). A neutral flame is a bit less. 


From kevin@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:55 EST 1996
Article: 43617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 18:11:11 -0600
From: kevin@aquilagroup.com
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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In article <32ac1063.0@mothra.westworld.com>,
>  frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
> The current rating should be fine.  Be sure to heat sink
> them well.  The voltage rating could be low.  I noticed a
> follow up post about Miller using 300V diodes.

Been looking into doing what Chris suggests, and thus looking 
into diode availability.  At 100A+, 300V seems to be the _lowest_ PIV 
rating produced by several manufacturers, (Not counting the 50V Schottkeys)so it may not
be especially significant that miller uses them. I do agree however, that diodes are more likely 
blown by over-voltage, than over-current abuse. "Normal" diode applications (with
filter caps) actually pull much higher spikes than welding, as the welder 
transformer is designed especially to limit the output current.

If Chris has a source for cheap diodes ($30 each is typ. retail) then it may 
well be worthwhile to add some spike protection in the form of RC snubbers
or gas-discharge arrestors.

News server is well and truely broken, posting via deja news, and having trouble
with line lengths.  Appologies if this is badly formatted.

ciao, Kevin Ferguson
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:57 EST 1996
Article: 43618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cut tubing with Plasma Cutter?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:06:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <19961211000600.TAA03180@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <19961202224500.RAA23000@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

It'll cut it like a Stihl chain saw cuts rotten balsa. 
The plasma will "peck" through the piece. Start it on the scrap side.


From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:58 EST 1996
Article: 43619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:12:03 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 8
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References: <57utoc$ahm@herald.concentric.net>
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They probably want you to think 6061. This alloy is heat treatable, is
used for bikes and some airplane parts--hang gliders--anywhere you want
good strength to weight ratio. Not real good in terms of fatigue (compared
to chrome moly). Failure under load can be sudden--breaks, won't bend much
compared to steel. 

It's probably a good flashlight.


From kevin@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 14:08:59 EST 1996
Article: 43620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!jump.net!grunt.dejanews.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 18:11:09 -0600
From: kevin@aquilagroup.com
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850254551.5994@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <19961209155200.KAA14488@ladder01.news.aol.com>
X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Dec 10 21:54:38 1996 GMT
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>I So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
> motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A fuse!
> What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.

Does the switch have an unloader valve?  If the pressure sensing port were on the 
pump side of the check valve, then the switch would start the motor as soon as 
the unloader had dropped pressure to the cut-in point.

It is also possible that you installed the switch between the pump and the tank.  
If so, then there might be enough of a pressure surge (due to slight restriction)
to stop the pump too soon.

-KF-






-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From billsr@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:00 EST 1996
Article: 43621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "William J. Graf Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 10k S.B thread dial
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:06:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <01bbe6f7$39272d40$4850bacd@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>
References: <19961209224900.RAA25593@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32b054ce.2203573@news.sprynet.com>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I have an extra thread dial assembly for a SB 9 inch lathe. 
Will it work on the 10 inch?
Bill

Scott Logan <ssl@loganact.com> wrote in article
<32b054ce.2203573@news.sprynet.com>...
> On 9 Dec 1996 22:49:17 GMT, wbtty@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >am looking for a complete thread dial for a south bend 10 k
lathe
> >cat no cl810nk
> >any assistance would be a help 
> >thanks
> 
> Well, you can call South Bend, but I understand they want over
$200
> for it.  You can also call Joe Bergamo at Plaza Machinery.  He
is
> making new Thread Dials for SUBSTANTIALLY less.
> 
> South Bend Lathe Corp.  (South Bend Lathes)
> 400 W. Sample St.
> South Bend, IN 46601-2892
> Tel. 219-289-7771
> Fax  219-236-1210
> 
> Plaza Machinery Co.
> P.O. Box 14
> Bethel, VT  05032
> Joe Bergamo
> Tel. 802-234-9673
> Fax  802-234-6325
> E-Mail: amy.bergamo@quest-net.com
> 
> Scott Logan
> ssl@loganact.com
> www.loganact.com
> 


From billsr@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:01 EST 1996
Article: 43622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: "William J. Graf Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:02:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <01bbe6f6$a19bb4a0$4850bacd@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>
References: <01bbe6a2$3b18ebc0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net> <19961210170100.MAA21226@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ely-oh3-25.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Tue Dec 10  4:02:15 PM PST 1996
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I have Netcom and have unlimited time, prime or not for $19.95 a
month.  Only get a busy signal once in a while.  Also, I went
with the AOL option of connecting with my Internet Service
Provider for 9.95 a month and have had no problem connecting.
Bill

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote in article
<19961210170100.MAA21226@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <01bbe6a2$3b18ebc0$e31f00cf@les.intecnet.net>, "Les
Whitaker"
> <hoofe@intecnet.net> writes:
> 
> >Cecil, from the undernet I gather that since AOL went to the
competitive
> >rates, it's been jammed. <<following is commercial based on
personal
> >experience>> I wouldn't have AOL again for free. They have a
nasty habit
> of
> >y
> 
> Since going unlimited time I still have not had a busy signal,
prime times
> or no. Still seems a good deal to me. I tried Netcom but their
lines were
> busy more times than not. Besides they also only *give* 40
hours of prime
> time per month, 8am-12pm, AOL says unlimited and that's what
you get. I'm
> a happy little Vegemite and staying with em.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 


From johnshep@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:03 EST 1996
Article: 43623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: johnshep@ix.netcom.com (John Shepard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking suggestions needed
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 00:15:32 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32adfc3d.1570464@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
References: <ncn2vnihhr.fsf@axel.vigra.com> <19961210143100.JAA17343@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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I would suggest looking into the knifemaking supply catalogs.  They'll
sell you nice, annealed steel of various kinds suitable for blades at
a reasonable price with no minimum.  They'll heat treat it properly
when you've finished shaping it and you'll do less work and end up
with better knives.  Pick up a copy of Blade magazine.  They've got
lots of suppliers listed.

John
--------------
Humans are not rational animals.  They're rationalizing animals.
johnshep@ix.netcom.com


From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:04 EST 1996
Article: 43624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding certification........
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:23:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <19961211002300.TAA03544@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32a07192.135450982@nntp.interaccess.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

Lots of them. Call American Welding Society in Miami, Florida. They have
an 800 number and can tell you all the places in your area that have
certification facilities. Any good vo-tech will be certified to do
testing. If you can't find their number, e-mail me at grisher@aol.com


From pdnrd@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:05 EST 1996
Article: 43625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pdnrd@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 11 Dec 1996 06:24:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 9
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References: <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

MSC sells toe type clamps that pull Downward as you tighten them leaving
the 
whole top free.
I prefer this method over gluing or magnets because the tension is
predictable.
This is critical if you are going to be close by.
If you want more pressure you add more clamps.
Have a great day!
Paul D. Nordhaugen


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:09:06 EST 1996
Article: 43626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Quorn tool/cutter grinder
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E256FJ.DJu@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <32AA38F5.2B81@cybertron.com> <586sf8$hbl@chaplin.cs.ubc.ca>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:28:30 GMT
Lines: 40


In a previous article, hjkratt@cybertron.com (Henry Kratt) says:

>William Chernoff wrote:
>> 
>>  Sorry for the re-post, but my original one seems to have
>>  disappered almost immediately (ie within a few hours)
>> 
>>  I am considering buying a Quorn kit tool/cutter grinder and would
>>  like opinions from those who already have built/seen one.
>> 
>>  1: Is the kit complete?
>>  2: are the casting s high quality?
>>  3: is the design ok?
>>  4: are the instructions/plans clear.?
>>  5: is the final product usable?
>> 
>>  Its hard to tell from a photo in a catalog just whats  what.
>>  please post here, or email me
>> 
>>  Bill Chjernoff
>>  chernoff@cs.ubc.ca
>
>Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, and Yes.  With the exception, it may depend where
>you get the kit and what instructions come with it.  A book by the
>designer Prof. D. H. Chaddock (now deceased) is very complete with
>instructions as to use.  It is a small machine with a recommended 1/6 hp
>motor.  Chaddock designed it to make 1/16" and smaller end mills to
>complete a model of a racing engine.  Argus Books (in England) is the
>publisher.
>
>Henry
>

Argus is now Nexus, same address.  The quorn was first published as a 
series in Model Engineer, then as a book.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:09:07 EST 1996
Article: 43627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: SI stuff
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E256xs.Dqy@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <58d936$kje@parlor.hiwaay.net> <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:39:27 GMT
Lines: 13


In a previous article, mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton) says:

     < Whole bunch of stuff snipped >


Reminds me of the Newton Meter torque wrenches, when all the manuals used 
Kg meters as a unit.  Most mechanics were baffled by the Newton back in 
the sixties.  Most thought it was an apple!
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From glyford@us1.channel1.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:08 EST 1996
Article: 43628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.170.183.55!brighton.openmarket.com!wizard.pn.com!news1.channel1.com!usenet
From: glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WHAT ARE YOU MAKING when you're not watching the Altavoz/Jens flame war?
Date: 4 Dec 1996 12:30:56 GMT
Organization: Channel 1 Communications
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <583qu0$5kq@news1.channel1.com>
References: <56mdoa$e3q@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> <32911d4e.197595543@news.islandnet.com> <56o0gt$319@news3.snfc21.pacbell.net> <570979$q9b@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <57vgmd$pi1@news1.channel1.com> <581ev0$gl8@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.11

In article <581ev0$gl8@mongol.sasknet.sk.ca>, Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com 
says...
>Only one 454 ?

Hey, it was a county fair, and these guys were amatuers and dabblers,
not the fanatic commercialists you see in stadiums nowadays...

On the TV, I've seen some with 6 or 8 engines, and I won't even get into
the jet engine powered ones...
                                                   --Glenn



From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:09:09 EST 1996
Article: 43629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: 6 Dec 1996 08:47:41 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <58985t$7b3@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <580il5$1ba@hecate.umd.edu> <32a64a11.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32A74338.536E@hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <32A74338.536E@hp.com> Van Baker <van_baker@hp.com> writes:
>I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned Kitts (Kitts Industrial Tools, Detroit,
>800-521-6579, in the FAQ).  While I've only ordered a couple of times (just getting
>warmed up), service was good, came in a week (UPS), order complete.  They're 
>certainly no MSC, but for selected items beat the price significantly (DTI ~$78,
>MSC same brand/model on sale for $99. for example).  Just another possibility.
>

How much do the shipping and handling charges add to that?
I stop in on them every once in a while.  They used to have a lot of
interesting stuff at really good prices; but then they went upscale.

And even if you spend $100, they'll still charge you for their catalog.

MSC has really warmed up the competition.  The new Production Tool Supply
catalog is touting free UPS delivery now (and they'll have your order
ready for pick up if you call it in with a 30 minute lead time).
 
Since I'm local, I like PTS for stuff that I need right away.  Their
catalog is no MSC, but it's still 1000+ pages.

-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:09:10 EST 1996
Article: 43630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 08:56:12 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <5898ls$7bv@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <587ll4$qop@news-central.tiac.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <587ll4$qop@news-central.tiac.net> gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White) writes:
>Keywords: 
>
>As a relative neophyte, I'd LOVE to have a coax indicator.  I can't 
>justify the expense of one of the US made Blakes, and have always wonder 
>if the foreign copies were any good.  I can't justify the expense of one 
>of those either, but if I'm going to fantasize, it's a little easier.  I 
>also appreciate the skill (and patience) required to do things 'the old 
>fashioned way'.
>
>Doug White
>

The PIM MetalWorking Book two has a design for a home-made coax
indicator. It's not all that hard to make, although you do need a
tenths indicator for it and, of course, it's utility is directly
proportional to your skill and care in making it.  I've been looking at
that project, but there hasn't been the time, so I have to do it the
old-fashioned way.

Gets to be a real pain when the indicator dial is aimed at the bottom
of the chip tray.

-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:09:12 EST 1996
Article: 43631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: 4 Dec 1996 08:51:16 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <583vkk$4cr@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com> <57v4ba$bvo@lana.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

In article <57v4ba$bvo@lana.zippo.com> jjmaj@dow.com writes:
>In article <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com>, Les says...
>>
>>The other day, I saw an ad on TV pitching a well known brand of
>>flashlights made of aircraft aluminum.  The more I think about it,
>>the more I think the name of this metal is becoming just another
>>buzz-word.  But, just in case....  Is aircraft aluminum a specific
>>alloy?
>>
>> - les
>
>Yes, its a buzzword. Airplanes are usually made from  3003, 5052,
>6061, 2024, 7075. 

I have a friend who has patented a little do-hicky that needs a sharp
cutting edge.  She took the design around to some shops and somebody
told her it needed to be made out of 'aircraft steel' (that was before
I was aware of it).  It looks like a decent tool steel would have 
the properties she needs, but now she's fixated on that expensive
'aircraft steel'.

No wonder Madison Avenue does so well.

-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From son.of.RA@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:09:13 EST 1996
Article: 43632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Robert" <son.of.RA@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Propane
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:29:08 GMT
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What kind of regulator do I need to do cutting with propane in stead of
acetlene?



From glyford@us1.channel1.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:14 EST 1996
Article: 43633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: books to learn from
Date: 4 Dec 1996 14:05:41 GMT
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In article <1996Nov22.233828.2923@ole.cdac.com>, grant@cdac.com says...
>2. "American Machinists Handbook" Colvin & Stanley

I've been looking for this for a LONG time, ever since I saw one
at a friends house ages ago...

Anyone have an address for these guys?

> [snip]
>"Machinery's Handbook" 

I've also seen this recommended in sci.eng.mech, again, an
address, please?

Either that. or the address of a shop in Greater Boston where I
might find either (or even both)?

I am sure this is information of common interest to a great many of
the other lurkers out there, so don't bother to e-mail, just 
go ahead and post... :^) :^) :^)
                                                  --Glenn



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:15 EST 1996
Article: 43634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:02 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

<Snip>

>I think Omar Kiam summed it up nicely...

>Make the most of what ye yet may spend,
>before ye too, unto the dust decend.
>Dust to dust and dust to lie,
>san wine, san song, sans singer, sans end.

>Peter
>Hommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......

>PS 'sans' means 'without'

Omar Kiam, yes indeed.  Lot in there.

Fitch's equivelent, not as poetic:

Life is not a spectator sport, it is a first person
experience.  Get off the couch, do something, get a life.
"Couch Potato" is another way of saying "living dead".
Television is a spectator sport.

Smelling the roses is also doing something.  So is looking
off across a high desert valley, smelling the breeze, loving
the sunshine, and sipping fresh coffee while the mill makes
a nice cut.  Did that today.  Highly recommended.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:16 EST 1996
Article: 43635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:16:54 GMT
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glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell) wrote:

>Hello -

>I just acquired my first lathe, a 9" SB, last week.  One of the
>first things that I'll need are tool holders and bits.  Any
>recomendations as to what's needed to get started ?  The SB
>has a latern style toolpost.  Any other basic tools that
>on needs beyond a scale and calipers ?  Despite the subject
>line, I'd prefer to avoid the expensive tools for the moment.

>Thanks,
>Gary Lowell
>glowell@engr.sgi.com

You will need access to a good level to get your lathe set
up.

After that:

A dial indicator with a set of "points" (little screw on
feet to adapt it for different tasks) and magnetic base
holder, a set of micrometers up to about 4" (you don't have
to start with Starrett, there are some totally usable
imported ones, just look them over carefully), dial caliper,
6 and 12" steel rulers, telescoping bore gage, and 6" bench
grinder (you will replace the tables on anything you get, so
just be sure it is balanced - smooth running - and pay as
litle as you can - throw away the wheels that come with it
if its a cheap Chinese unit, and get a pair of Norton wheels
or equivelent).

For the lathe itself, you will need centers (preferably a
ball bearing live center for the tail stock), 3 and 4 jaw
chucks, some 5/16 HSS tool bit blanks, and the book "how to
run a lathe".  Face plate and a plate to drive lathe dogs
are very handy - so are lathe dogs but don't buy them until
you need them.  You will need some oil and two pump oil cans
that are different colors or labeled - one for spindle oil,
one for way oil.  Chris K. has published the definitive
posting on that subject so I will leave that to him.

I'd also suggest that you pick up a 3/4 " piece of precision
ground shafting, aka drill rod, about 30 inches long.  It
will be *straight* and you can use it to check out your
lathe and true it up.  With out a master level it is about
the only way to get the lathe set up right.  Even with a
master level it is the final step.

Find a steel supplier or local shop that has odds and ends
of shafting, and other bits of steel.  Try to get some 1018
or 1212 steel to practice turning with.  

you will find a small paint brush, say 1" wide, and a tin
can with some curring oil in the bottom to be very handy,
especially when cutting threads.

Get "Steno" pad, or a spiral book with quadrille ruled
paper, pencil, a small plastic ruler, and pocket calculator
(engineering model with trig functions) to keep handy.  Use
the pad to track your progress an you learn to turn to a
specific finished diameter within a tolerance you set ahead
of time.  Tjhe process of keeping the log will teach you a
lot about your lathe and how it performs.  You can make
friends with it a lot faster that way.

Beyond that, study your projects and make a list of the
tools you will need, and buy them as you need them.

I'd also suggest you subscribe to home Shop Machinest, and
send $1.00 to Metal Lathe Accessories for their list of kits
of castings to make accessories for your lathe.  The quality
of the castings is excellent.  The "T" slotted cross slide
can be obtained already machined.  With that you can
progressively make the rest of their accessories right on
your lathe. 

Fitch







From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:18 EST 1996
Article: 43636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:04 GMT
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knaell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ken Knaell) wrote:

>Speaking of grinding, well we were once...

>Does anyone know if the pulsating torque from a single phase
>motor could contribute to the "dishing" that I and at least
>one otherr person have had with their surface grinding.
>A three phase motor would be much better in this respect and
>I am considering buying one and re connecting my motor/rotary-
>phase-convertor back up to test this hypothesis.  If you have
>1/2 horsepower coming out in 1 horsepower bursts at 50% duty
>cycle it seems it could make belts vibrate (mine do) and all
>other kinds of nasty things happen.  Seems like nothing is
>simple once you grow up.

>Ken,
>Bethesda, MD

I havn't done the math, but I suspect that the inertia of
the grinding wheel will even out the pulses from the motor.
In any event, it would only amount to a very small
percentage change in the surface speed of the wheel.  I've
seen some expensive grinders that had longish flat belt
drives to isolate the motor vibration from the grinding
spindle - I don't remember the manufacturers name, although
for some reason I think it had a French sound to it.  

I'd suggest  a careful check of the balancing of the
rotating mass.  By careful I mean to get both ends in
balance.  If it is only balanced around the centerline, but
the counterbalancing masses are at opposite ends of the
shaft, you can get a rocking vibration displacement on each
end.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:19 EST 1996
Article: 43637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: refinishing old lathe
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:00 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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dkoehn@elite.net (Dale Koehn) wrote:

>I have a South Bend lathe (16"X10') and the first 5 feet of the ways
> are badly worn. Can the ways be refinished? What would it cost and is
>there someone local  (Fresno Ca) that could do this? Or I have been
>thinking about moving the headstock down to the middle and cutting the
>upper half off. Is this possible? Has anyone tried this? I do not need
>the length.
>--
>Dale

After you grind the ways, there are a number of things that
will no longer fit and have to be modified.  I've not tried
it, but earlier I asked the question and received a number
of positive replies for flame spraying the ways to build
them back up and then regrinding them back to the stock
height.  The chief concern was uneven ware which suggests
grinding the bed first, then building it up and regrinding.
They would be really hard, should last you a long long time.
This avoids all the complications (relocating the rack that
drives the carriage, accomodating the new location of the
threading lead screw relative to the ways, etc. etc. etc.)
that accompany grinding the ways.

Fitch





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:20 EST 1996
Article: 43638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:16:49 GMT
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My impression of that article was that it was one paragraph
of substance carefully crammed into two pages of opinion.
It was dissapointing, especially since I found this great
news group only a few weeks ago.

I confess that I look forward to receiving HSM, Projects In
Metal, and Live Steam as much as I lookforward to PC
Magazine and PC Week  (lot of stuff from the latter two on
the net).  I enjoy them all.

I also have had considerable experience with computers - I
once (1989) managed the  design and installation of a
network for 1,000 users.   Since I have gone back to
electrical and systems engineering (thank goodness some one
feeds the engineers).  

When we put in that network we had a choice of using MACs or
PCs.  We could get 500 PCs on line with software for about
the price of getting 250 MACs on line with software.  It was
a clear no brainer which one to choose - any desktop
computer is better than no desk top computer!  By buying PCs
we had double the desktops wih computers.

To top it off, the PCs had more capability to run the SW we
needed and ran faster.

Apple didn't recognize the Intel machines as serious
competition for their better idea.  That is in short the
story of Apples reduction to a vestigial presence in the
desktop computer market.  I will be surprised if they stay
at all with out making such big changes you won't recognize
them as "Apple" anymore.

It is a perfect example of a company that believed they had
a better mousetrap ... so good it was immune to competition.
It wasn't.

Fitch





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:21 EST 1996
Article: 43639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: vetted postings--or am I screwing up?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:10 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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"Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net> wrote:

>Are the postings on this board vetted? .i.e. scanned by someone for
>inclusion/exclusion? Or am I messing up the procedure somehow? None of my
>posts in the last two weeks have been posted. howcum?
>Les Whitaker hoofe@intecnet.net

No, the postings are not vetted.   At times wthey will come
in slugs of 200 to 250, (I got four eachof the preceeding
days, then suddenly 248 this AM)  other days I only get a
few.  

I did find out this morning that the news server at my ISP
is acting up.  They have a backup server and told me how to
get access to it, so hopefully I will have fewer dry days.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:22 EST 1996
Article: 43640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:08 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris ) wrote:

>Has anyone here done a ac to dc welder conversion using stud
>rectifiers. I have a 200A ac welder and wonder if 4  200A 200V diodes
>in a bridge configuration would handle average welding below 200A.
>There are all kinds of transients and high frequency harmonics flying
>around in the weld circuit that i am wondering about.

>Anybody tried this?

>Chris

The current rating should be fine.  Be sure to heat sink
them well.  The voltage rating could be low.  I noticed a
follow up post about Miller using 300V diodes.  If they are
using them in a bridge, which is what I would think they are
doing, there may be a message in the voltage rating.  They
are probably designing for 300V to 450V PIV spikes with some
margin.

The effect of the inductance of 40' of welding cable is non
trivial at 150 amps.  When the arc quits by instantaneoulsy
going to an open circuit, especially after a "stuck
electrode" incident, the line inductance can generate
voltage spikes that are surprisingly large and energetic as
it tries to find an outlet for its stored energy.  Usually
the arc absorbs a sizable percentage of this energy, but it
can happen in such a way that it doesn't.  

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:23 EST 1996
Article: 43641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:06 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller) wrote:


>As a data point, I have to replace the diodes in a Miller "Dialarc" 
>250 Amp AC/DC welder.  According to Miller, these diodes are 150A 300 V.
>They cost about $26 from Miller which is the same price I got from
>an electronics supply house.

>Hope this helps.

Do you know if they are used in a bridge?

The voltage rating is instructive.  The line inductance in
high current DC circuits can make some nasty voltage spikes.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:25 EST 1996
Article: 43642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: a good book for lathe or milling operations?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:16:52 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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The Village Press book "The Shop Wisdon of Frank McClean" is
excellent also.

Fitch

PPIERCE <PPIERCE@cyberhighway.net> wrote:

>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

>--------------66BA1479165F
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>Jim Waggener wrote:
>> 
>> Looking for something with the "beginner" in mind.
>> anyone make a reccomendation?
>> 
>> Jim Waggener

>Lindsay has all kinds...
>Try some of HSM hardbound also.  Shop wisdom series sure
>is helping me...

>-- 
>Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member
>Checkout the Metal Web News at
>http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray

>--------------66BA1479165F
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="Lindsay.txt"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Lindsay.txt"

>Metalworking Books

>LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

>QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

>P. O. Box 538  HC2
>BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

>Phone:  1-815-935-5353
>FAX:    1-815-935-5477



>--------------66BA1479165F
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="Villag~1.txt"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Villag~1.txt"

>VILLAGE PRESS
>	LIVE STEAM
>	PROJECTS IN METAL
>	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
>	Also some Great Hardcover
>	collections of reprints

>http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
>http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
>http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
>http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

>Phone:  1 (800) 447-7367
>Phone:  1 (616) 946-3712

>FAX:    1 (616) 946-3289
>--------------66BA1479165F--





From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:26 EST 1996
Article: 43643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:53:33 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32a5a3f8.885391@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
writes:

>I've looked at them from afar ....longingly
>
>One thing that drives me nuts with a standard Aloris type post is the
>fact that the base has to be re-aligned a lot.
>Let's say you want to cut threads - you set your compound to 28
>degrees but then you need to loosen the toolpost, re-align and (if you
>are picky) indicate it. This seems a great big waste of time to me. I
>would rather be able to set up the post once and forget about it ...
>then just move the holder over a few notches.
>
>

Seemed like a good idea to me too.

About that 28 degrees. I have seen mention of doing tis but I was taught
(103 years ago) to cut threads differently.

1. Leave the compound where it normally is but set its hand wheel to zero
with the backlash taken up in the direction of cutting towards the chuck.

2. Get your calculator and divide the pitch by 2.

3. Move the cutter up to the work so that it jusr barely marks the turning
shaft to be threaded.

4. Remember the hand wheel setting on the cross slide.

5. Pull to the right of the shaft and advance the cutter for the first
pass.

6. Cut it.

7. Go back to the right of the work for the next pass.

8. Advance the cross slide for the next cut and *also* advance the
compound by about a 0.001" not important, just enough to give clearance on
the right side of the tool during the cut.

9. Cut it.

10. Repeat 7-9 until you are about 0.001 or 0.002 prior to full depth of
cut. *Warning* as you advance the compound for each subsequent cut *do
not* exceed the total travel you calculated in step 2. Advancing the
compound is only to give clearance on the right side of the tool.
Sometimes you may only need to adjust it forward for every second pass.

11. Rewind the compound to the original setting, taking up any backlash as
needed.

12. Move the crosslide in the last 0.001 or 0.002 and make your final cut.
This will cut on both sides of the tool and clean up.

Works for me. It is actually a lot harder to describe than it is to do.

Peter
Still screwing around in the shop.



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:28 EST 1996
Article: 43644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:53:42 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32a7ac96.0@mournblade.ptw.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Fitch
>Wondering what was wrong with typewriters, mimeograph
>machines, sliderules, and time to think once in a while as
>o

Let's see you do this with your typewriter!

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:29 EST 1996
Article: 43645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:53:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <585jsl$lcg@juliana.sprynet.com>, mark@mortonmachinery.com
writes:

>And I think you're both wrong.  I like the idea of a metalworking chat
room,
>if the "monitors" can throw people out who have no purpose there or
aren't
>serious or just 
>fooling around.  I would like a place to ask direct questions about our
>industry and get immediate follow-up, rather than this posting stuff.
>
>-

Think of the "posting stuff" as therapy Mark, slow down a little. You are
a long time dead. There will be machines bought and sold long after we are
both gone and in the giant scheme of things we wont be missed.

Posting is neat, it gives you a chance to anticipate the thread and expand
your opinions mulling over the responses you have already received.

Perhaps if you had longer to think you may have changed "majordomo" to
send pointers to graphics rather than just whack it online and spew the
stuff to everyone whether they need it or wanted it or not.

Smell the flowers, take the wife to dinner, don't watch TV for three days.

Think about what you will be taking with you when you die.

I think Omar Kiam summed it up nicely...

Make the most of what ye yet may spend,
before ye too, unto the dust decend.
Dust to dust and dust to lie,
san wine, san song, sans singer, sans end.

Peter
Hommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......

PS 'sans' means 'without'


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:30 EST 1996
Article: 43646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 17:53:36 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net>, "PyroWare"
<pyroware@flash.net> writes:

>I think guys who discuss new tools should be able to post their
>discoveries so that other folks can learn as well without fear of
>chastisement... that is the whole idea :-)
>
>

Don't know if you mean me, but I was outlining the fact that I can usually
achieve the same end result without the wait for the equipment to arrive.
I can indicate an edge in the milll or I can use and edge finder to do it.
I use the edge finder every time. To suggest that we toss everything but a
file is purile.

I, for one, was not chastizing, merely pointing out that these things were
done manually once, so why not again.

By all means, if you have the coax, use it, advocate and laud it's
benefits, but allow us older farts the right to say how we use our head
instead of pocket books to achieve the same thing.

Peter
Now where did I put the MSC catalog?


From bfairey@wat.hookup.net Tue Dec 17 14:09:31 EST 1996
Article: 43647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB:  Die Filer
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 15:50:04 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
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On 8 Dec 1996 03:53:01 GMT, gunner312@aol.com wrote:

>I'm looking for a die filer.  Age and condition isn't really important but
>all the parts and pieces must be there.  I can rebuild it if needed and
>even make some new parts if the old ones are worn out.  Will pay reasable
>crating and shipping costs.
I have one if you can get it from Waterloo, Ontario, Canada


From glyford@us1.channel1.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:33 EST 1996
Article: 43648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glyford@us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The wages of ---
Date: 4 Dec 1996 14:57:58 GMT
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In article <alshinn-2311962227500001@ppp092-sf2.sirius.com>, 
alshinn@sirius.com says...
>

>> My latest reward for cleaning up a pile of junk (so I could get at the
>> wood of my computer bench up in the attic to reinforce a sag) was to 
find
>> my dial test indicator! Hooray, I have been wanting it badly but just
>> didn't have a clue where to start looking, Never, ever would have 
tried
>> looking there! I love it when such an obnoxious task as tidying up 
grants
>> such a great reward!!

Sounds like we use the same filing system...  :^) :^) :^)
                                                     --Glenn



From jrr0@watson.ibm.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:34 EST 1996
Article: 43649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrr0@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: 9 Dec 1996 15:19:05 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
>I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
>inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
>I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
>there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
>here first.
>Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
>type but again, there are a lot of different choices.
>
>PS.: I am sure this will be much more interesting to people than
>picking up the import bashing thread again :)
>
>Jens

I am spoiled - whenever I need to get a *good* look at anything,
I just take it into work and use the B&L Stereozoom microscope.
Has the 15X wide field eyepieces, and a fiberoptic ring illuminator.
The illuminator makes a world of difference - puts the light
*right* where you need it, and all the IR is blocked out, so
you don't toast your hand.

Its amazing how much you can see with good magnification and
light source.  I have removed jammed taps and solved more than
one "mystery" with microscopes like that.  Plus, that's the ultimate
in quality control for fine assembly work.

At home I have just a loupe - I never could use those opti-visors.
They give me a HUGE, instant eyestrain headache.

Jim




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:35 EST 1996
Article: 43650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:22:38 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
: >Pete:  Who has been known to drop his jaw at seeing one of his 5000 line 
: >wonders compile the first attempt.

: I kneel in the prescence of the great.


Don't be that humble.  My boss actually designed the code that the 5K wonder
goes into.  I think of it as kitchen sink software; it parses instructions,
puts them into various stacks, *and* sets up an 'undo' stack to reverse
the actions when necessary.  Sorta like a 7000 line VegiMatic.  I 'simply'
took his ideas and made them work under all circumstances and such.

I think I want to be on a *looong* vacation when the boss starts to implement
the ring buffer.  I don't know what he has in mind, but it's gonna be a
lot of code.....

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:36 EST 1996
Article: 43651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:59:24 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <589qec$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <01bbdf99$aa566680$e738f2cd@cmx00100> <849497949snz@bozzie.demon.co.uk> <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com

(Dave Brooks) phony@see.sig.for.real wrote:
: >
:  Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
: above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
: gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
: Why did they ever do it that way?

I'm not 100% sure, myself, but here's a shot at a guess.  Actually,
looking at cross sections, the rotary engine isn't more complex than
the radial, and with some (I think the gnome fits) the intake valve
is vacuum driven, so you don't have a push rod, thus the engine
gets even simpler.

One possible advantage for the rotary is in the induction system.  
I picked up _The lore of flught_ from the discount section at Barnes and
Noble, and that book has the cross sections.  The gnome has a pretty
involved induction system, with the carb located somewhat *behind* the
firewall.  The same engine uses a hollow crank shaft to duct gasses.

More advanced engines, like the Wright J-5 radial, put the carb where
God and Pratt and Whitney wanted it to be, right behind the engine.  However,
this means that there's a rather large blower in the rear crankcase to
distribute the fuel-air mixture.  Note that this is *not* a supercharger,
just a system to keep the fuel from settling out.

BTW, does anybody have any tolerable drawings of the Manley radial engine
that was designed for the (Langston?) flight attempts just before the
Wright brothers succeeded?  It's supposed to be 20 years advanced, but all
I have is a snippet.

: --  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
: PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
:     "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au

Nice 'from line'.  Does it work?  I'm getting tired of EarthStar.com...

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:37 EST 1996
Article: 43652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Browning vs. Bluing
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:23:57 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
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Alan K. Gideon (akgideon@mindspring.com) wrote:
: I understand that a process called "browning" was used as a surface
: protection for rifle barrels in the 19th century, like bluing is now. 
: prettier finish?  Is there some hidden failure mode, like crevice

I built one muzzle loading pistol and browned it; the other pistol and
rifle were blued.  I wasn't thrilled with the mercury compound needed
for browning, but for the limited use I had with the cap-lock, it
served well.  Got a nice, plum brown, too.

I like the looks of browning, but using a cold blue was a *lot* easier.
(Brownell's Oxpho-blue)

Pete Brooks




From indianken@netreach.net Tue Dec 17 14:09:39 EST 1996
Article: 43653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ken Smith <indianken@netreach.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 04:29:15 -0500
Organization: Netreach InterNetNews
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PETER
     ITLIAN BIKES and ITLIAN WOMEN / NICE WHEN NEW BUT HARD ON PARTS.

     H/D may be farm equipment but all you throw away is the "OINK".
KEN


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:40 EST 1996
Article: 43654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 23:56:14 -0800
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

<snip>

>It is actually a lot harder to describe than it is to do.

It took me several reads to figure out what the heck you are doing but
eventually the lights came on ...... seems like a lot more efford to
do though.

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:42 EST 1996
Article: 43655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 23:56:23 -0800
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>Smell the flowers, take the wife to dinner, don't watch TV for three days.

Don't watch TV ????  DON'T WATCH TV ?????  You've got to be kidding !!
How will I know what products to buy, how to dress, how to speak, what
car to drive and what bank to go to ???? How could you possibly exist
without TV ???? I think I'll give the MCP (Mind Control Police) a call
and tell them about you. I mean like this is how revolutions start
.... next thing you'll spout out about thinking for yerself ....
Where is this world comming to ????

Jens
(totally disgusted and disappointed about Peter - need to add him to
my kill file to avoid brain contamination by his posts)


From EDCP78A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:43 EST 1996
Article: 43656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:55:05 GMT
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This has been an interesting thread.  FWIW, on Friday I remembered to 
brush the dust off the nameplace of my 1971 twin cylinder Sears with 1hp 
motor.  My motor is rated at 17.5 amps at 120v, and the compressor is 
rated at 4.5 cfm at 45 psi and I think around 6 cfm at 90 psi.  The belt 
is a flat belt and the motor pulley is about 1 3/4".  I was thinking of 
trying a larger pulley, but being a flat belt this may be difficult.  I 
have not checked with Sears to see if they still use this belt, but most 
belts I have seen are v-shaped.

I also went to Home Depo on Sat.  The C-H 6.5hp that someone here said 
could be bought from C-H refurbished and delivered for $430(?) was priced 
at $389.  I wonder if it is the same one?  Probably.  Interestingly the 4.
5 hp C-H motor draws the same amps as my measly 1 hp.  Although the 
compressor is probably larger as it is rated around 6 cfm at 40 psi.  

I can understand the desire for more air, I too want to run a sand 
blaster and could use more.  Just thought I would toss out my findings.

One more thing, my compressor instruction sheet said to use 10w-30 
detergent oil.  I guess this was before the days of specific oil for 
compressors.  I'll have to check at Sears the next time I'm there to see 
if they recommend it for their new compressors.

Alex



From rhys@wam.umd.edu Tue Dec 17 14:09:44 EST 1996
Article: 43657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rhys@wam.umd.edu (Aubrey Philip Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 04:02:20 GMT
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

>My favorite is Rutland tool and supply. They have the absolute best deals on milling 
>cutters anywhere... we buy hundreds from them. Also good is Eastern tool, but watch 
>out for the Indian stuff. For absolutely first rate service (fast) go with MSC. Not 
>always the cheapest.) Avoid Enco like the plague.

>No flames! Just my opinion!

>Regards, Mark

Could you give me their phone number? McMasters if anybody has it
also.

Thanks,


A. Philip Williams TIP#646 VOG#001
rhys@wam.umd.edu
Team GENU



From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:45 EST 1996
Article: 43658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 12:32:21 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
Lines: 10
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In article <58fmbs$r9u@news-2.csn.net>,

>Then why do high volume production shops run Japanese CNC's - it all
>depends on what you want to do and how many times you want to do it. 
>Sometimes buying foreign equipment makes financial sense so that a
>business can succeed.  If I tried to buy American everything I would soon
>go out of business -which would be the opposite of your intention.  One
>works in a global economy and compete however you can.

By the way, the best Japanese machines are made in America!


From Tom@Atlanta.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:46 EST 1996
Article: 43659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Burns <Tom@Atlanta.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:25:58 GMT
Organization: Freelancin' Fool
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <58hp46$5l9$1@metro.atlanta.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com
X-URL: news:32ac106b.0@mothra.westworld.com

frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>
>Do you know what model it is?  A, B, or C?
>
>Does it have a quick change gear box?  If not, are the
>change gears there?  Is it flat belt or V belt drive, does
>it have the two speed counter shaft?  Did it have hand
>scraped ways?  
>
>Is your condition assessment based on measuring it?  How
>clean it is?  Some knowledge of its history - hobby use only
>for 45 years, etc.?
>
>Fitch
>
>

I think it's a B, it appears to have cross feed and QC gearbox, 
flatbelt, I don't know about counter shaft. I don't know how to tell if 
ways are hand scraped. Lathe is govt. surplus from the FCC has not been 
used for the last 18 years. I would guess that it was manuf. in the 
60's. I did spot a broken back gear &* shaft in the tooling box. It had 
been replaced. Does this help?...Tom




From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:47 EST 1996
Article: 43660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG questions
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:29:24 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 3
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My middle name is TIG. What would you like to know?

grisher@aol.com


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:49 EST 1996
Article: 43661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS  EMCO COMPACT 5 CNC LATHE
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:55:50 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
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greetings fellow groupies

for sale for sale for sale


Emco Compact 5 CNC lathe
comeplete with:
3-jaw chuck
13pc collet set
collet nose
emco qc toolpost
6 toolblocks
tailstock
programable spindle speed
keypad with led display
built in cassette recorder

this machine is in like new condition
used for very few hours
not a scratch on the paint (honest)
a true gem!!!!!!!!

price $4,950.00  fob w babylon ny

contact andy popky    516 385 9452


From andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov Tue Dec 17 14:09:50 EST 1996
Article: 43662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!nntp1.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!amorrison-mac.jpl.nasa.gov!user
From: andy@lithos.jpl.nasa.gov (Andrew Morrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Blacksmith's leg vise wanted
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 16:07:48 -0800
Organization: JPL
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Want to buy a blacksmith's leg vise. Good to excellent condition. I'm in
Southern California. Prefer 5 inches or greater. Also looking for a small
one about 3 inches for a friend. Call Andy at (818)798-6588


From ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu Tue Dec 17 14:09:51 EST 1996
Article: 43663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu (DEMPSEY)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for a source for 'T-Slots' for welding fixture
Date: 10 Dec 1996 19:51:22 -0500
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Lines: 14
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Hello...
	I'm building an adjustable welding fixture, and am looking for some
(preferrably steel) T-slots to recess into the fixture and provide hold down
points for my work holders.  I've seen versions in aluminum in many woodworking
jigs, but cannot even find a source for these extrusions.
	Any hints or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
	-Brian

-- 
DEMPSEY,BRIAN DAVID
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ch89abe
Internet: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:53 EST 1996
Article: 43664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:06:17 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
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rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
: How do you keep your welding rods dry?

: Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.

  I wish I had a dollar for every home, farm and commercial welding shop
I've been in with an old refrigerator to hold the rods. Another response
suggested fitting an ice chest or milk can with a light bulb. With the
refrigerator, it's already there. You just have to bypass the switch in
the door.

Bruce

PS - If you're anywhere near Boulder, CO, I'll give you my old refrigerator
if you'll drag it out of the basement.


From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:09:54 EST 1996
Article: 43665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Objective review of the Grizzly G4000 9" x 19" Lathe
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:01:31 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <01bbe774.7b74dee0$10c1c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>
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> ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote in article
<E272Hu.Et1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>...
> 
> The information I have on this lathe, gives no hint of a back gear.  A 
> back gear is essential if you want to machine cast iron & Bronze.  It's 
> also handy for parting off.  The advertisment I have gives the lowest 
> speed as 130 RPM.  The lowest speed on my Myford is 58 RPM, and I plan
on 
> installing a smaller motor pulley to reduce this to 43 RPM.  As it is, 
> there are times when I hand crank it to get a very low speed.


Excellent advice.  A slow spindle (when needed) is a real plus.  Nothing
quite like threading to a narrow shoulder at 130 rpm.

Kurt Bjorn


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:55 EST 1996
Article: 43666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mill for sale or trade.
Date: 11 Dec 1996 01:06:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I have a Packard Precision mill-drill. It is 17x7.5x6. 2HP 1 phase motor.
In excellent condition. 8" rotating table/dividing head. 6" mill
vice.$1200. $2500 with 4 stepper motors and drivers for a 4-axis CNC
conversion. Will partially trade for a lathe. I live in CA bay area.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:56 EST 1996
Article: 43667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 23:48:05 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32abc224.401822182@news.islandnet.com>
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EDCP78A@prodigy.com (Alex Sallwey) wrote:

>the compressor is 
>rated at 4.5 cfm at 45 psi and I think around 6 cfm at 90 psi.  

> Interestingly the 4.
>5 hp C-H motor draws the same amps as my measly 1 hp.  Although the 
>compressor is probably larger as it is rated around 6 cfm at 40 psi.  

>One more thing, my compressor instruction sheet said to use 10w-30 
>detergent oil. 


I am very confused here ..... more cfm at higher pressure ????  At
that rate if I raise the pressure on my compressor to maybe 200 PSI I
should get a real breeze going .....

Also I presume you meant to say NON DETERGENT oil ?????

Jens
(confused as always)


From mark@mortonmachinery.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:57 EST 1996
Article: 43668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mark@mortonmachinery.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I have three for sale
Date: 5 Dec 1996 04:32:02 GMT
Organization: Morton Machinery Company of Los Angeles
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>   chernoff@cs.ubc.ca (William Chernoff) writes:
>   The other day a post was on this news group thta had, among 
>  other things, a small comparator for sale.  I tried the listed
>  web address www.marshalmachinery.com , but could not locate it.
>  Now I looked for the post here, assuming I wrote down the 
>  www thing wrong, and the post is gone. Does anyone know where or
>  how I can contactthese people?  If the person who made the post reads this,
>  please send me your fax nmber so I can send a drawing to 
>  see if my cutter will fit into the viewing volume of the comparator.
>  Bill Chernoff
>  chernoff@cs.ubc.ca
>  604-794-3364
>  604-794-3139 fax
>  
>  
>>>>
I don't know about Marshall Machinery, but I have three J&L comparators for sale. You can see them at my site at 
www.mortonmachinery.com  and click on the Deutsch Liquidation icon. 


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:09:58 EST 1996
Article: 43669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:18:59 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
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	But, J & L Industrial
	Supply has a December sale going with several nice items.
	They have a Chinese 8" Master Precision Level, One division =
	.0005" / 10", which is more sensitive than the Soviet one I've got.
	Has a hand scraped base, with vee for placing on round surfaces,
	cross vial, wooden case, $79.95, order # IPL-22008H. 
	
Mine arrived yesterday. It's not Chinese, but Polish. It's lovely. The
wooden case could fit more tightly, but other than that I have nothing
to complain about - especially at this price! I'd rate it 95% as nice as
the Starret...

Scanning through J&L's catalog, I see that they beat McMaster-Carr on a
number of things that I've ordered recently. Their product range is not as
great, but their San Jose store is within driving distance...


From hps@shore.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:00 EST 1996
Article: 43670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!192.233.85.167!shore!news
From: "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:03:04 GMT
Organization: Henry's Machine Shop
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <58ktno$b0l@fridge-nf0.shore.net>
References: <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210170100.MAA21231@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com>
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To: bbeizer@gnn.com

Boris ! what do you mean by point 5 in your posting, the only 
time I have ever had any trouble with teflon machining was when I 
used too much rake on the tool. It then dove into the stock and 
made a mess of it.  I have found that the best results with soft 
plastics are achieved  with perfectly flat topped tools, zero 
gegree rake just like brass.Everything else in your post is right 
on I would add that most tips on machining plastics urge slightly 
more relief (below the cutting edge) than that used for metal 
This reduces heat buildup by assuring that there is no rubbing 
contact from a land below the cutting edge . 

Henry



From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:10:01 EST 1996
Article: 43671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 00:07:29 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <32adcdd0.252572503@news.demon.co.uk>
References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32A250A7.15D6@interport.net> <32A66246.2198@interport.net> <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk> <32ac97ee.252181745@news.iinet.net.au>
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The moving finger of phony@see.sig.for.real having written:

> Just a thought: I wouldn't expect ex-missile gyros to last long. 

I'm not so sure. The build quality on this thing far exceeds anything
I can imagine being able to afford by any other means.


From ledelman@ix.netcom.com@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:02 EST 1996
Article: 43672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lorie <"ledelman@ix.netcom.com"@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Abuse Beyond CrossPosting
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:27:51 -0500
Organization: Netcom
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> The Message is Not the Problem...The Abuse of CROSSPOSTING
> is the Problem!!!

You know, you love yelling at people for "abuse"...yet you have sent me
TWELVE email messages for ONE post because I accidently replied to a
message that had a link in it for to be cross posted.

Talk about calling the kettle black....

I have been on the internet since BEFORE it was even the Internet (Back
in the old Arpanet days), have been "bbsing" for over 15 years, (Back
when people ran their boards off of Atari and Commidore 64 computers)
and I have NEVER seen ANYONE as rude as you.  I can understand your need
to Police the Internet (some people have to have something to do with
their time) but perhaps you need to learn that we ARE dealing with
computers, different servers/services and both computer error and human
error can sometimes cause a violation.  Perhaps those who do it
constantly should be addressed, but to leave daily, abusive email to
people because of ONE mis directed post is immature, and far more
harmfull then someone CrossPosting.  I suggest you and others think
twice before replying to messages in email, and perhaps look at the
HISTORY of the person involved, instead of calling them names,
forwarding messages to the ISP, etc.  Not all of us are as PERFECT as
you, since you obvously have never made a mistake. 

All notes posted to my email will be forwarded to YOUR ISP, with
complaints of abuse.


From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:04 EST 1996
Article: 43673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!smash.gatech.edu!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!news.he.net!news.enteract.com!feed1.news.erols.com!hunter.premier.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!swrinde!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!206.66.12.35!news-in.iadfw.net!excalibur.flash.net!not-for-mail
From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam turbines
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:06:00 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 13
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References: <E27tu1.1Cv8@pen.k12.va.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm9-16.flash.net
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1085

Richard, there is an exciting element of model internal combustion engine
construction which is pretty new; that is, gas turbine construction. 
While the principles are a bit different, the two books I have are loaded
with practical, hands-on development of precision turbine blades, angles,
shafts, bearings, and the math and balancing of such a beast.  Consider:

Gas Turbine Engines for Model Aircraft by Kurt Shreckling; and,
Model Jet Engines by Thomas Kamps

If youy need them, I can post publishers and such.  Really fascinating
reading.

Kurt Bjorn


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:05 EST 1996
Article: 43674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: is this lathe FS a good deal?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 20:43:28 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Message-ID: <58htt1$j85@nw101.infi.net>
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>  I wonder if it was the 13" Leblond from my old high school.
>That thing took quite some abuse!  I should know <g>...
> Where was it?

The lathe was in Hampton High School, Hampton VA.



From bgg@eden.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:06 EST 1996
Article: 43675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!usenet
From: bgg@eden.com (The Book Garden Gallery)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rose & Cirino's Jewelry Making and Design (1949)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:54:12 GMT
Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <58mlid$5nu@tofu.alt.net>
Reply-To: bgg@eden.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

x-no-archive: yes

We would like to offer the following.......

Rose, Augustus F. and Antonio Cirino.  Jewelry Making and Design.
Davis Press: Worcester, MA, 1949, revised edition, 300 pp.  With some
color plates and numerous b&w plates and line drawings throughout.  

Very clean tan cloth covers with gold lettering on front and spine,
one corner bumped, a very small nick to front cover.  Inside clean
endpapers with former owner's name in small ink, very clean text
pages.  A very presentable copy printed on high-quality gloss paper.
VG   $45  

For more information please email or call us.  Thank you for reading.



****************************************************
The Book Garden Gallery 
http://www.eden.com/~bgg/index.html

|Used & Rare Books|      |Black Mountain Art| 
   |Children's Stories|      |Cool Culture Media|

     1 302 369-3160  (10am-8pm, M-F EST)
****************************************************






From p.oman@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:08 EST 1996
Article: 43676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.ems.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: paul oman <p.oman@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: waterjet cutting systems
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:19:04 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 18
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Hi everyone:

My internet connection web page area pulls 'hit' for me from newsgroups on
topics I'm interested in. One of those topics is waterjet cutting and
suddenly I learned about this newsgroup. 

I am a consultant and writer in the waterjet cutting industry and think I
can help answer some of the questions that were recently posted here.

In a netshell, there are now CNC waterjet cutting systems that operate at
less than 20,000 psi, sell for about $75,000 complete, and cost about $5 per
hour to operate.

I would be pleased to talk with anyone by email or phone.

paul oman
281-997-9872



From EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH Tue Dec 17 14:10:09 EST 1996
Article: 43677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!CERN.ch!news
From: Janos ERO <EROJR@MAIL.CERN.CH>
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: misi066.cern.ch
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Michael Hanz wrote:
> 
> If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump
> sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from
> it any day of the week (unless you have a racing engine.)  All you need
> is a long hose and a way to get to the intake manifold.  I've used it for
> everything from evacuating A/C systems to "debubbling" epoxy and it seems
> to work just fine.  Maybe not ideal, but it's cheap!

Please! Don't do this with a car equipped with a regulated catalythic converter. 
After a few actions you probably have to replace the converter. 

Janos Ero


From mark@mortonmachinery.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:11 EST 1996
Article: 43678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: mark@mortonmachinery.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: My sincere apology
Date: 5 Dec 1996 04:37:18 GMT
Organization: Morton Machinery Company of Los Angeles
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <585jhu$lcg@juliana.sprynet.com>
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Scott,
   My sincere apology.  You are on an automated e-mail list we use called "Majordomo", and we send weekly bulletins on machinery for sale.  I will be more than happy 
to take you off the list first thing tomorrow morning.  
   Most of the response we've been getting are requests to be added so  people can be kept notified of our "Newest Arrivals".  But anyone requesting to be removed 
will be removed immediately.  
   Again, my deepest apology.  
--- Mark Rogo, President, Morton Machinery Company, Los Angeles, California
Visit us at www.mortonmachinery.com


From mark@mortonmachinery.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:12 EST 1996
Article: 43679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!news.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: mark@mortonmachinery.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Don't be shortsighted from online services
Date: 5 Dec 1996 04:43:01 GMT
Organization: Morton Machinery Company of Los Angeles
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <585jsl$lcg@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <329d0579.0@mournblade.ptw.com>
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X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>   frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) writes:
>  Larry Matthess <Larry.Matthess@trw.com> wrote:
>  
>  >Subject: metalworking chat room
>  
>  >In article <19961123154000.KAA25357@ladder01.news.aol.com> ,
>  >vantonova@aol.com writes:
>  
>  >>Don't you guys think it will be nice to have an AOL chat room about
>  >>metal? You can got to "Member Rooms" and set up a new chat room. We
>  >>just need to set up a time to chat.
>  
>  
>  
>  >No.
>  >Tried AOL, found it wasnt for me at all.  Would hate to think that
>  >some of the discussion I am privy to here would leave to a form I
>  >have no access to and never plan to again.
>  >My $0.02.
>  
>  >     Larry M
>  
>  
>  Me either.  I left compuserve and don't have any intention
>  of joining another of the "major" on line services again.  
>  
>  Add my $0.02.
>  
>  Fitch
>  
>  
>>>>
And I think you're both wrong.  I like the idea of a metalworking chat room, if the "monitors" can throw people out who have no purpose there or aren't serious or just 
fooling around.  I would like a place to ask direct questions about our industry and get immediate follow-up, rather than this posting stuff.

--- Mark Rogo, Morton Machinery Company
Add my $0.02



From scruggs1@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:13 EST 1996
Article: 43680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: Reed Scruggs <scruggs1@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS  EMCO COMPACT 5 CNC LATHE
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:46:13 -0800
Organization: Specialty Steel
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32AE1265.2E30@concentric.net>
References: <32AE0696.66F0@ix.netcom.com>
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To: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>

ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> greetings fellow groupies
> 
> for sale for sale for sale
> 
> Emco Compact 5 CNC lathe
> comeplete with:
> 3-jaw chuck
> 13pc collet set
> collet nose
> emco qc toolpost
> 6 toolblocks
> tailstock
> programable spindle speed
> keypad with led display
> built in cassette recorder
> 
> this machine is in like new condition
> used for very few hours
> not a scratch on the paint (honest)
> a true gem!!!!!!!!
> 
> price $4,950.00  fob w babylon ny
> 
> contact andy popky    516 385 9452


Andy,

I have been looking for a manual version.  How do you like the lathe 
itself?  I would love to have the CNC, but the cost is prohibitive.  I 
figured I could convert it later.  You can post a reply, or reply to my 
e-mail at scruggs1@concentric.net if you do not want to start something 
negative.  Thanks for your time in responding.

Reed


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:14 EST 1996
Article: 43681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.80.63.252!delphi.com!usenet
From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Browning vs. Bluing
Date: 5 Dec 1996 05:02:17 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Message-ID: <585l0p$9t7@news2.delphi.com>
References: <32A495A9.1530@mindspring.com>
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X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.3

Alan K. Gideon wrote:
>I understand that a process called "browning" was used as a surface
>protection for rifle barrels in the 19th century, like bluing is now. 
>I've seen the result, but I'm not too sure about trying it just because
>it is advertised as "historically accurate."  What time frame was it
>used in?  Why is it no longer used; simply because bluing produces a
>prettier finish?  Is there some hidden failure mode, like crevice
>corrosion, to worry about?  Exploding gun barrels are not a fun thing to
>think about.
>
Browning simply referred to a rust finish. Properly done it was hard,
durable and not harmful to the gun. Essentially it involved putting the
part in a humid enviornment with a lot of salt, letting it develop a coat
of rust and then brushing off all but the most tightly attached rust.

I've used the process, although not on guns. It works well and produces and
even finish that protects the underlying metal. However I suspect bluing
(which is a more complex process) actually does a better job. Certainly you
can have a more highly polished blue finish.

--RC


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:15 EST 1996
Article: 43682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.inlink.com!news.dra.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:09:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ab2392.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Touche'
>
>Once upon a time, a long time ago, I did it with radio waves
>- it was called amature radio.  Didn't ever do it with a
>typewriter.
>
>

No surprise that you replied. I wondered when I posted whether anyone
would get it?

Amature radio, packet radio? I had a friend who hooked his computer to a
little Icom 2M an it amazed me to see the stuff coming in as words on the
screen.

Peter



From poppke@plains.nodak.edu Tue Dec 17 14:10:16 EST 1996
Article: 43683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: poppke@plains.nodak.edu (David L Poppke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Miniature Blacksmith anvils WTB
Date: 11 Dec 1996 07:41:07 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network (NDHECN)
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I am looking for all types of miniature blacksmith anvils to buy.

Usually have a company name and/or a logo on them.

Let me know what you have and your price.

David Poppke, WA0VFY                Email:       poppke@plains.nodak.edu
1418 Burntwood Court                Home Phone:  701-746-7841
Grand Forks, North Dakota 58201     24 Hr Fax:   701-777-3650


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:17 EST 1996
Article: 43684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:17:47 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <19961209221700.RAA24517@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961209155200.KAA14488@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
vantonova@aol.com writes:

> So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
>motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A
fuse!
>What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.
>
>

Sounds like the pressure switch is connected between the tank check valve
and your compressor instead of on a separate line into the tank.  Did that
just this weekend when building a small one.


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:18 EST 1996
Article: 43685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to...
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:13:07 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <01bbe61c$a15cb1e0$e81f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
References: <329779fa.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <19961130004800.TAA15460@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57q93d$q0r@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.0.31.232
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

And I thought I was the only one...
Les Whitaker

Reckless <reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> wrote in article
<57q93d$q0r@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>...
> gunner312@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >.....ANd then sometimes you can make a $5.00 tool out of $100.00 worth
of
> >material and many hours of labor.  But then if we knew what economics
was
> >all about we wouln't be running a lathe would we?
> 
> Don't I know that one.  To make a small (1.5 gallon) air tank, I
> needed at TIG welder.  $1700 for the TIG, $27 worth of scrap aluminum
> and I have a very nice tank.
> 
> A lathe and mill are on the horizon.  My project car is getting
> expensive.
> 
> -Reckless
> 
> 


From andreww@advgroup.com.au Tue Dec 17 14:10:19 EST 1996
Article: 43686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!visi.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!203.108.7.42!OzEmail!OzEmail-In!news
From: Andrew Wells <andreww@advgroup.com.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Photo-etching brass with AUTOETCH PRODUCT
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 08:41:30 +1100
Organization: OzEmail Ltd - Australia
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <32AC878A.12E3@advgroup.com.au>
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Nigel Cliffe wrote:
> 
> In article <588g9h$c2p@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au>,
> lachie@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au (Lachie) wrote:
> 
> > Would anyone be able to offer advice on photo-etching brass sheet for
> > model making? I want to produce HO scale carriage sides, preferably using
> > this technique, and using AutoCAD to produce the masks.
> >
> > Any advice on reagents, mask design, limitations of the process (or
> > alternatives) or even on reference books would be appreciated.
> 
> Article on the 2mm Scale Association Web site:
> http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/
> and follow the links,
> 
> or, if you'd rather pay someone else to make the bits for you, Bill
> Bedford does it commercially:
> billb@mousa.demon.co.uk
> 
> - Nigel
> 
> --
> Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
>    Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers


I bought the Home Etching kit from AutoEtch in PA. (advertised in Model
Railroader - I have the details if you cant find).

They supply a tank that heats Ferric Chloride and aerates it. Works ok.
The best thing they provide however is supplies of brass and nickel
silver sheet already precoated with photosensitive resist. 

The instructions in the kit are very good, and you can do a good job
straight out of the box. I have made some improvements, which I can talk
about later if you want.

The sheet sizes are 6" by 8" which is fine for my 1:120 modelling.

Andrew Wells


From rabadie@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:21 EST 1996
Article: 43687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Waterjet project
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:25:37 GMT
Organization: Technology Assistance Group
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Jens,

RE>> This whole thing is silly - buy a commercial pump and be done with it!

Commercial waterjet cutters start at about $100,000 do you know of any
cheaper? Heck even the pump unit is over $20K and I know of only 1
manufacturer.

> > I assume the mode of operation is through cavitation?
RE> Unknown  ....

Most have abrasives in the stream which requires a very, very hard nozzle

> ...I still think you would be nutty trying to build one of these when
commercial units are available so cheaply.

Where can I get a cheap one?

Ray


From frank@dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:22 EST 1996
Article: 43688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:37:27 GMT
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
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I've seen loose grounds do all sorts of odd things, including
the result (more power) you are seeing.

In the past, wicked and long discussions have been written about
the 'impossibility' of some of the results of bad grounds.  Most
of writers have been ignorant and offensive, and I do not want to 
have another round of than.

Spend long time checking your ground conditions.

Ground problems I've seen include 'start elevator blow up computer',
'turn on printer, blow up power strip', 'start washing machine, blow
light bulb', 'plug in printer, it lights on fire',  'sun comes up, 
circuits go off', and the list is much longer than this.

I suspect that you are driving the 3phase with a converter, and that
converter is on the 'other' side of a center-tapped circuit.  With 
high load on the other side, the ground is moved, giving more voltage
to the welder.




From brucer@interport.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:23 EST 1996
Article: 43689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 00:48:54 -0500
Organization: Interport Communications Corp.
Lines: 6
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"One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?

Thanks,

Bruce


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:24 EST 1996
Article: 43690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New Lathe
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:35:18 -0700
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To: Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>

Tony Midea wrote:
> 
> Your opinions please:
> I have a lathe that I purchased from ENCO 9x20" ( no flames please):-)a
> few years back. Believe it or not it has served me well. It has run well.......

Wonderful.

> ...... I really don't want to go back to Enco. I would probably just keep
> the one I have and save the $$ if that was my only option. ....

Why not?  

It is very Interesting.  Like day and night.  
Must be something you are not saying to us.

I cannot give much of an opinion.  I looked at the 9" Enco but opted for
a 
12X36 gearhead Enco and have been happy.  I can only compare with my 
former 10" Logan that came out of a WW2 plant.  Apparently the former 
operator liked to run the chuck into the compound.  The only other lathe
I
had used was a 13" SB in shop class.  That sort of sold me on the 12"
rather than a 9".


I made a collet adapter and bought a 3", 4-jaw, 5C mounting Sherline
chuck 
for small stuff.  Got a partial set of collets at a sale.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From barts@eng.sun.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:25 EST 1996
Article: 43691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bart Smaalders <barts@eng.sun.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:26:35 -0800
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc
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I bought the same rig, and put it on a electronics rack about 36" high 
and put that on computer grade casters... the hole has come in handy a
few times, but so far the rack cabinet is just storage space...

- Bart

Peter Brooks wrote:
> 
> My contribution to the expensive, but useful tool set:  A surface plate.
> Actually, mine wasn't all that expensive; two of the local surplus places
> (Triangle and RA Enterprises) get rather highly modified ones all the
> time.  Mine came from Triangle, and there's a sort-of-convenient 4"
> diameter hole in the southwest region of the plate.  The rest of the
> plate has some nicely countersunk threaded inserts that I haven't yet
> found a use for.
> 
> In all, it was a decent way to get a decent sized, good plate (about
> 18" x 24", not sure of the surface roughness, but I haven't found any
> warp in it with my current tools.) for $75.  Of course, I've been
> lusting after the 3' x 3' surface plates with stands, but I've been
> able to resist, so far.
> 
> Pete Brooks

-- 
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:26 EST 1996
Article: 43692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drawings as 10kb /full screen
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 21:51:11 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
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Tom wrote:
> 
> If you have a drawing that you would like to post save it as a
> 16color or 2 color gif
> if using paintshop pro in save as dialog box access options.
> make sure do not save any transparency information.that way gif
> will be black +white in netscape and not black and transparent or
> black and gray if gray your default background color.
> save as interlaced will load picture every 8th line(looks like coming
> into focus)
> all told a small news posting and gif should be 10kb or 4-8 seconds to
> load.
> gif's are the most efficent at lower colors.i know of no format that
> is better.
> sending example 6kb gif as file attachment
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>  [Image]


Hi Tom,

I think you've got a great solution for making graphics available to the
NG while keeping band width down. I printed out a copy of your post but
the image did not print. What is the easiest way to print out a copy of
a post with the image?

Jay


From jlkehoe3@ldd.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:27 EST 1996
Article: 43693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jlkehoe3@ldd.net (James L. Kehoe III D.O.)
Subject: ENCO Lathes
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:02:47 GMT
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I've been looking for a lathe in the 12-14"x40" range.  Spindle hole
size is important and 1.5' is minimum.

I have an ENCO catalog and one of their lathes look good, spec. wise.
This is the model 110-1352 which is on sale now at 20% off catalog
price.

Anyone have any information on these lathes?  Must purchase within the
week to get the pricing..  Tech support stated all metal gears except
for one that acts as a protection to the gear train in case of over
run and shear pin failure..  Will cut left hand threads.  Made
mainland China.

Thanks,

Larry
James L. Kehoe
Ste. Genevieve, Mo.
E-MAIL jlkehoe3@ldd.net



From luke@cybrtyme.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:28 EST 1996
Article: 43694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HELP, what are good steels for Damascus?
From: luke@cybrtyme.com (Luke Kilpatrick)
Organization: Montevallo Bridge and Pipe
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In article <58d9bc$t5l$1@thorn.cc.usm.edu>, rbanksto@whale.st.usm.edu says...
>
>I've got a problem.  I'm interested in forging Damascus/pattern welded
>blades but I am having lots of trouble acquiring good steels locally.  I
>checked with the local foundry for stuff like 1095, W1, etc. but they said
>that all of that was special order stuff and would incur extra charges. 
>So it looks like I'm going to have to use recycled materials.  I need some
>steels which fit into these 3 categories:
>
>1.  Relatively available from recycled materials. I don't want to have to
>    search over half the state for the stuff.
>2.  Yield a halfway decent contrast for the pattern
>3.  Not be overly difficult for the novice to forge.  
>
>Also the blade I'm constructing will NOT be functional but is to be
>constructed entirely for its appearance.  Anyone got any suggestions?  Thanks.
>
>Rob
>rbanksto@whale.st.usm.edu
>
	Hi Rob. I'd say that category 1 will probably be far enough. Since you 
aren't interested in hardness or edgeholding, let's make the ground layers (the 
darkest lines in the pattern,) out of plain old mild steel. You probably walk 
past 50 pounds of scrap mild steel every day, but you can get it at any welding 
 or metal shop, too.
	Basically, the higher the alloy, the lighter the etched layer in the 
pattern. In the easily worked, mostly plain carbon steels, you could use mild 
steel (usually 1018) as the low end, some spring steel (5160 or 5168) either 
>from  junkyard leaf springs or junkyard coil springs as a medium lustre 
component, and some worn out files from a flea market (10125) as the high alloy 
(brightest) layers of metal.
	I assume you know that the metal must be cleaned up and prepared, that 
the fire must be reducing, and that damascus is a sweaty and none too clean 
affair.
	Don't get too happy adding layers of the bright metal to the mix. 
Remember, if you add equal parts dark, medium, and light layers, and distribute 
them evenly, you'll end up with lots of contour lines, but almost no 
definition. Plan ahead for the internal topography of the finished piece 
though, and you can use darker mixtures alongside lighter ones, and then accent 
them with "grabber layers" of pure bright high carbon steel. 
	Using just those steels I've mentioned, any competent smith who has 
made any damascus could produce a superior knife. If it's your first time out, 
spend some time just welding mild steel together. The process is the same, it's 
tricky, and the practice won't waste the file steel you've so carefully 
smoothed and polished...
	Persevere! Tool grade steel or not, making this stuff is an awesome 
experience



From kpinkert@super.zippo.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:29 EST 1996
Article: 43695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Getting Started
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 18:34:22 GMT
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On 10 Dec 1996 17:21:36 GMT, "Scott A. McGillivray"
<smcgilli@ealge.wbm.ca> wrote:

>first question is, how big an anvil should one look at buying for sword
>making and how much should one expect to pay for it?  The book suggested
>between 300 and 500 lbs.  However a local smith said he never used one
>bigger than 150 lbs (then again, he never made swords!)  

The general rule of thumb IMHO is $1 a pound for a good anvil. Problem
is good used anvils are hard to find. The cheaper anvils you will see
advertised are all cast iron anvils and should not even be considered.
There is a fellow who will make you an anvil and he has posted here
recently. Use Dejanews and scan back thru the postings for anvils and
I am sure you find him.

Kevin

Email addresses:
kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Most reliable)
kpinkert@erols.com (will do in a pinch)


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:30 EST 1996
Article: 43696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:48:14 -0700
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I just aquired a Southbend 9" model "B" and need a thread dial and
manuals. I'm also interested if anybody has opinions on toolpost options,
collet setups and  mailorder suppliers (or?) to obtain them. Are metric
changegears available or instructions for making them (I have a small mill
but no dividing head yet)? Thanks for considering my request and replies
via posting or email are much appreciated.

donahue@continet.com


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:32 EST 1996
Article: 43697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ray F. Abadie wrote:
> 
> Need a copy of the article Convert your Mill-drill to CNC (Part 1) by
> Roland Friestad to compare notes with conversion underway. Will pay
> duplication cost and shipping.
> 
> Thank you!!!
> 
> Ray Abadie
> rabadie@bellsouth.net

I'd be happy to help. Not guaranteed, but very likely I have the issue.
Where should I send the copy?

Do you happen to know the issue date?

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:34 EST 1996
Article: 43698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: 9 Dec 1996 20:03:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ac105f.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>>Does anyone know if the pulsating torque from a single phase
>>motor could contribute to the "dishing" that I and at least
>>one otherr person have had with their surface grinding.
>>A three phase motor would be much better in this respect and

I was using a single phase Mig welder this weekend and it seemed to be
underpowered (Millermatic 35 with spool gun)  When the 3 phase 10 hp
compressor in the shop kicked on, the welder worked great.  When it quit,
the welder went back to sputtering?  Any Ideas?

Cecil in OK


From ccoiadl@bright.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:35 EST 1996
Article: 43699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "MARK " <ccoiadl@bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How many BTU's to raise 4.2 Lbs H20 from 80 to 350F?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 11:53:52 GMT
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Eric W. Dalton Jr <edalton@pen.k12.va.us> wrote in article
<E1yxEK.rIx@pen.k12.va.us>...
> Check me if I'm wrong, The change from ice/water takes 540
> calories/gm
> and the change from water to steam takes 80 calories/gm.
> Converting
> to BTU/lb I get 799 BTU and 118 BTU respectively. 
> 
> JD
> The above values are reversed.  
> The phase change values are 80 cal/g to convert ice to water
> and 540 cal/g to convert water to steam.
> 
> Eric W. Dalton Jr. Science Department  Fauquier High School 
> 705 Waterloo Road   Warrenton Va. 22186   540 364 6100
> 
I don't know if anyone has brought this up yet, and perhaps you know, but
you need to have the water under pressure to get it to 350F. As the water
boils around 260f (I know its around there) the heat is carried off with
the steem (evapration=cooling). How much pressure I'm not sure but would
think around 10 to 15 psi.
-- 
Mark Worstall
ccoiadl@bright.net
http://www.bright.net/~ccoiadl
*********************************************************
It stands to reason that when someone speaks
to you of sacrifice, there is someone collecting
the sacrificial offerings. Where there is service,
there is someone being served. The one that speaks
to you of sacrifice speaks of slaves and masters,
and intends to be the master.



From randymshr@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:36 EST 1996
Article: 43700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randymshr@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking suggestions needed
Date: 10 Dec 1996 14:31:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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On working whittler blades from saws:

I would first check the hardness of the blades as they are, to see if they
are suitable for knives, Saws may be tempered for flexibility. Wood
carving tools can be quite hard, and rather thick to compensate for their
brittleness. One way would be to just sharpen the end of one blank like a
chisel and see how it wears when sharpened. 

If the present temper is unsuitable, someone here or over in rec.knives
can advise you on the likely steel type and proper annealing/heat
treatment. 

I have had sucess roughing out blades with a carbide burr on a die
grinder. Really takes down the metal, and doesn't heat it up too much. Not
sure how it would do on a hardened blank, but it might be worth a try.
With fine grit and time to cool off, it could take tou forever!

Let un know what happens.

--Randy Mosher


From lkenn01@emory.edu Tue Dec 17 14:10:37 EST 1996
Article: 43701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jim j <lkenn01@emory.edu>
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Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 19:33:23 -0500
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Bill Crick wrote:
> 
> > Washed Mind wrote:
> > >
> > > If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> > > then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> > > your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> > > your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> > > you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
> 
> brainWashed Mind seems to have forgotten the 11th commandment
> 
> THOU SHALT NOT SPAM!
> 
> I wonder if theses fanatical zealots realize how much damage
> they do to their own cause doing stuff like this!
> 
> Bill Crick
> Brewius, Ergo Sum!


From jmreid@u.washington.edu Tue Dec 17 14:10:38 EST 1996
Article: 43702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "J. M. Reid" <jmreid@u.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 16:57:21 -0700
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 3
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All maufacturing is done to spec's.  Whether by the importer or dealer. 
The manufacturer just follows orders and gets the job by price quote.
Know the real source before buying!


From frank@dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:39 EST 1996
Article: 43703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!la-news1.digilink.net!newshost.dsea.com!usenet
From: Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:05:00 GMT
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
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I was persuaded by this newsgroup to go and take welding course,
and I urge you to do take one.  8 hours a week of welding instruction
has made a HUGE difference in my ability, and the cost is low.

Cheap and easy are not always possible.  I can now say that a 
trailer could be assembled using one of the Lincoln AC/DC machines
at HomeDepot, and a lot of 1/8" 6013 rod at about 85-90 amps. It
took a few months to get to this point, but now I'll never forget.

A GOOD power supply for welding is not cheap.  And you need clothes
and tools and a helmet.  How much can you afford?  Having looked into
this exact area, I can say with certainty that it is cheaper just 
to buy a trailer than to buy the tools to make one.





From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 14:10:41 EST 1996
Article: 43704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: OPINION - Clausing 10 inch lathe
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:57:41 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
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I am looking at buying a Clausing gear head lathe, model 1030 (10 inch swing, 
30 inch between centers). Speed range is 40 to 2240 rpm, cam lock spindle, 
taper attachment, inch and metric threading capability (manuall switch a gear 
between the spindle and quick change). The only tooling is a 3 jaw chuck and a 
dog driver plate for the cam lock spindle. On a scale of poor, fair, good, 
very good, excellent; I would rate it very good.

Any opinions on what it is worth? Comments on this model lathe in general?

Thanks in advance.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From ka0osk@creighton.edu Tue Dec 17 14:10:42 EST 1996
Article: 43705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ka0osk@creighton.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: silverplating on wax?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 20:41:28 GMT
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From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:43 EST 1996
Article: 43706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: here it comes!!! "JET" benchmill
Date: 10 Dec 1996 01:53:50 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <58ifre$h77@sjx-ixn8.ix.netcom.com>
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In <32ACB155.1C64@ix.netcom.com> ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
writes: 
>
>make sur it is a r-8 spindle
>i have seen some with morse taper  not good
>is he charging extra for the optional bent lead screw??<<

    Andy, what's the story on these tapers? 
    Believe it or not, he is going to throw in that bent lead screw for
  little more than the price of a new one <G>. The screw was the reason
  why it didn't sell before......well, maybe. I figure if it can be    
bent, it can be straightened.
    
>if the nachine is in decent shape then i would offer him $500 or less
>they are not the most popular machine out there
>if you are willing to do the repair yourself then it is most likely
>worth it, i have sold them (without the option you have) for
$1,500.00<<
                                                    >andy popky<

        Thanks to you it sounds like we are close enough in price to go
down and look at this machine. I'll see it Wed. evening.  I'm beginning
to realize that I wil not looking at a great machine..though I would
probably be willing to pay more to get a nicer one. In fact I had
figured on doing so. But this one should be worth a look.     
                                                            Roger


From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 14:10:44 EST 1996
Article: 43707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:33:07 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <hanrahan.297.32A874F3@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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In article <57nmaq$6e8@sjx-ixn5.ix.netcom.com> jhre@ix.netcom.com(J.A.Harvey) writes:
>A used wheel at a junk yard will run you all of $5.00. It'll cost $3.00
>a rim to have some kid in a gas station mount them up. $16.00 ( okay
>maybe $20.00 tops ) Doing this any other way is false economy.

>Sometimes, you actually have to PAY for something.:^)

Depends where you live and what places are available. Except for a few 
"secret" small places, the cost for the above around here is:

$15 Used metal rim. (each)
$ 3 Remove and remount. (each)
$ 9 Balance.
$27 Total per wheel for a whopping $54 for the pair!

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:46 EST 1996
Article: 43708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!demos!news.stealth.net!news.idt.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 21:04:21 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 19
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Tom wrote:
> 
> rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > How do you keep your welding rods dry?
> >
> > Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ron Norris
> they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing

How about an old used metal ice chest or water can wired with a light
socket inside to hold a small watt lamp to serve as heater?  You'll be
amazed how warm a very small lamp will make an enclosed space that is
insulated.

Randy


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:47 EST 1996
Article: 43709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: musical lathe
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:08:20 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 16
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To: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>

Abrasha wrote:

> Built in cassette recorder?!?  Wow, I'm impressed.  If you have the complete works of
> Frank Zappa with it also, I'll take it. ;-)
> 
> Abrasha
> http://www.abrasha.com


yes we have the complete set, but i am going
to Montana to have some dental work done
call me after the holidays
i will put a hold on it for you

regards
ap


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:49 EST 1996
Article: 43710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:30:40 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32ace680.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32ab2392.0@mothra.westworld.com> <19961209170900.MAA16242@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32ab2392.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>Touche'
>>
>>Once upon a time, a long time ago, I did it with radio waves
>>- it was called amature radio.  Didn't ever do it with a
>>typewriter.
>>
>>

>No surprise that you replied. I wondered when I posted whether anyone
>would get it?

>Amature radio, packet radio? I had a friend who hooked his computer to a
>little Icom 2M an it amazed me to see the stuff coming in as words on the
>screen.

>Peter

Not packet radio - I did this in the early sxties - although
some were doing TTY using FSK at the time.

Mostly 2M, some 6M (until the prevelance of old 50MHz IF TVs
in the apartment building at MSU  almost got me lynched - or
worse).  

Built all my own stuff.  Building it was much more fun than
talking on it, probably why I'm not still doing it.  Was a
lot less expensive than horses, sailboats, or machine shops.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:50 EST 1996
Article: 43711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:51:18 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32aceb55.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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hook@usit.net wrote:

>heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
>any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
>ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
>all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
>come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
>forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net

Aw shucks, another one ... 

Fitch
Lets see ... www.forteinc.com ... that was it, full version
has a *real* nice feature as I read the borchure .....



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:51 EST 1996
Article: 43712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 06:11:29 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 58
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References: <58b42h$j1$1@metro.atlanta.com> <32ac106b.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58hp46$5l9$1@metro.atlanta.com>
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Tom Burns <Tom@Atlanta.com> wrote:

>frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>>
>>Do you know what model it is?  A, B, or C?
>>
>>Does it have a quick change gear box?  If not, are the
>>change gears there?  Is it flat belt or V belt drive, does
>>it have the two speed counter shaft?  Did it have hand
>>scraped ways?  
>>
>>Is your condition assessment based on measuring it?  How
>>clean it is?  Some knowledge of its history - hobby use only
>>for 45 years, etc.?
>>
>>Fitch
>>
>>

>I think it's a B, it appears to have cross feed and QC gearbox, 
>flatbelt, I don't know about counter shaft. I don't know how to tell if 
>ways are hand scraped. Lathe is govt. surplus from the FCC has not been 
>used for the last 18 years. I would guess that it was manuf. in the 
>60's. I did spot a broken back gear &* shaft in the tooling box. It had 
>been replaced. Does this help?...Tom


A little - I looked at a lot of them in stores.  Most were
may have been  over priced - they were all $750 and up, some
pretty rough, so I walked away from them.  I saw a two
really good ones, they were already sold to the first
customer that answered the advertisement when I got there,
both for over $1,300.  Then I hear about them going for $400
to $600 in private sales, always almost mint, but never
found one in several years of looking off and on.  Do you
have a friend or aquaintance that can look at it with you?

I asked about the had scrapped ways because if it has them,
you can tell from the pattern wear how much use it has had.
The hand scraping leaves a unique pattern on the ways.  If
it was scraped you will probably see it best on the tail
stock end.  If the pattern is still visible near the head
stock end, it was probably little used.  If there is no
pattern near the tailstock end, it was probably not one of
the hand scrapped ones.

The two speed countershaft is nice to have.  You can tell it
because it has a dual diameter large pulley on the counter
shaft (note it is not two groove - it has two diameters the
belt rides on), and a two groove motor pulley.  Some of them
had a special 1/2 hp plain bushing motor with a quick
reversing feature.  (Good and bad - it can unscrew your
chuck right before you eyes - and you can use it at low
apeed for threading up to a shoulder, I have done it lots of
times - maybe I was luckey but the chuck never came off.)

Fitch



From rnorris583@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:52 EST 1996
Article: 43713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rnorris583@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Dry Welding Rods
Date: 10 Dec 1996 01:27:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <19961210012700.UAA29864@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

How do you keep your welding rods dry?

Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.

Thanks

Ron Norris


From gunner312@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:53 EST 1996
Article: 43714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gunner312@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lautard Tool and Cutter Grinding Jig
Date: 10 Dec 1996 05:41:27 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 1
Message-ID: <19961210054100.AAA07387@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <01bbe582$4c44b120$3471face@chi.earthlink.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

I'm building it right now.  Looks pretty good so far.


From thomas8@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:54 EST 1996
Article: 43715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drawings as 10kb /full screen
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 19:36:06 -0500
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 148
Message-ID: <32ACB076.1B2D@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roc-ny1-15.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------75B4759D3F6B"
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Dec 09  6:34:56 PM CST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0Gold (Win95; I)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------75B4759D3F6B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

If you have a drawing that you would like to post save it as a
16color or 2 color gif
if using paintshop pro in save as dialog box access options.
make sure do not save any transparency information.that way gif
will be black +white in netscape and not black and transparent or
black and gray if gray your default background color.
save as interlaced will load picture every 8th line(looks like coming
into focus)
all told a small news posting and gif should be 10kb or 4-8 seconds to
load.
gif's are the most efficent at lower colors.i know of no format that
is better.
sending example 6kb gif as file attachment

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WIstLFvzKvNR4gr10VNpPi20NwyMe9UVq1YF1aARZX0W2milnZbaaq29Fttstd2W2269/Taj
AgAAOw==
--------------75B4759D3F6B--



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:10:56 EST 1996
Article: 43716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding ways
Date: 10 Dec 1996 06:24:05 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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NJRich (r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net) wrote:
: Warm greetings,

: I have this Sears (atlas)  12" x 36" and the lathe bed does have in
: the neighborhood of 1-4 mils of visible wear ( I haven't cut with it
: yet to be sure). I read recently here about concerns with grinding
: to eliminate lathe bed wear. The lathe in general is a snap (aside 
: from the mass of the parts) to take apart and the ways are just two flat
: rails. Also if I jump through a few flaming hoops, stand and my hind 
: legs, bark at the moon and deliver some fresh pastries there is a large 
: machine shop Iknow that may do the grinding at no additional charge!.

: My question is should I go ahead and try to get this grinding done, try
: and live with it or try and get another lathe. I would like to work 
: within reasonable tolerances not any world records but at least near
: professional work.

Unless your friendly local machine shop has a grinder in absolutely
perfect condition, and the guy who sets up your lathe bed on it treats
it as if it was his own, you may not get it any straighter than 1-4 mils,
anyway.  If it is one mil, absolutely DON'T try to grind it.  Vertical
wear is of least importance in a lathe, anyway.  The front/back wear
is most important.  On a lathe not equipped with inverted Vee ways, then
the only thing constraining the carriage are the front and rear vertical
edges of the ways.  These don't wear all that much, unless the gib is
overtightened.  Still, I wouldn't get too excited over wear of no more
than 4 mils.  Assuming the wear is evenly distributed front and back
(which might not be the case) that leaves only +- .002" error in
carriage position.  All this will do is allow long cylinders to have a
slight barrel shape.  if you need to turn long shafts to precision
diameter, one wonders why you'd even get an Atlas.  But for general
lathe work, your machine is probably in quite good condition.  When people
on this group report areas worn down .030" on their bed, then you KNOW
it needs work.  I'd get the lathe running and see how it does on work
of the sort you expect to be do.  Of course, if your friends really have
experience grinding lathe beds, you might take them up on it.  If they
would be doing a favor, and don't do this kind of work regularly, I'd
be a little leery.  First, they need to have a surface grinder big enough
for a small lathe bed.  Most smaller shops don't have a grinder this big.
Second, they need to have the right size and shape wheels and mounting
jigs to set up a lathe bed on the grinder, and be able to true it up with
the grinder's axes.  You don't want them cobbling up something with a bunch
of bolts, nuts, washers, wedges and assorted junk.  If it gets loose, you
could have your lathe bed shot through a concrete wall, and your friend
explaining to his boss why they need a new $50,000 grinder!

Just a few thoughts from the overly cautious.
						Jon



From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:57 EST 1996
Article: 43717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:55:27 GMT
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zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:

>If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!


No longer do I drink or do drugs, I stopped hangin w\the wrong crowd,
and I go to Mass every Sunday.

Now I find out that this is work of the Devil and I have to give it
all up.

So whoever wants a Home Shop full of tools and Equipment for FREE.
E-mail me for arangments......



WAIT,    Then Id be killing another soul, Guess I just have to FIRE up
the ol Foundry one more time and melt it all, just to be safe   ;)


From russ@kepler-eng.com Tue Dec 17 14:10:58 EST 1996
Article: 43718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: using motor as a generator
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <E24tCr.1r3@kepler-eng.com>
References: <19961124013300.UAA07061@ladder01.news.aol.com> <E1Mnn3.16v@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU> <E1pKxI.FMs@kepler-eng.com> <E1vwro.BCp@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 05:46:03 GMT
Lines: 14

In article <E1vwro.BCp@news.nsw.CSIRO.AU>,
Peter Wiley <peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au> wrote:
>Seriously, running the cable externally just under the eaves and entering
>through sealed holes at floor level for masonry walls might work. Trick is
>to put the conduit where it doesn't spoil the aesthetics.

You've never seen flat roof stucco, have you?  There is no way short
of removing the roof, laying cable and replacing the roof that I'll
get a cable from the garage to the other end of the house.

-- 
Russ Kepler                                              russ@kepler-eng.com

                      Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From PLYMOUTH-DOCTOR@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:10:59 EST 1996
Article: 43719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Cecil Bearden <PLYMOUTH-DOCTOR@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: AOL problems
Date: 9 Dec 1996 05:17:46 GMT
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Has anyone here had trouble connecting with AOL  ????  I ahve tried to 
connect with them for 2 days and cannot.  I am using the Oklahoma City 
Connection.    

Cecil in OK



From xb79@dial.pipex.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:01 EST 1996
Article: 43720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xb79@dial.pipex.com (KEVIN HEYES)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:41:05 GMT
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In article <32ABD74A.6F57@abrasha.com>, Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> says:
>
>Bryan A. Whitfield wrote:
>> 
>> Kevin, do you happen to have a phone number for this publisher?
.>I believe that the address that Kevin posted for TEE publishing is not the correct one. 
>Check their Website at http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/index.html to get the correct 
>information, including phone and fax numbers.
>
>The site contains hundreds of books available from them, which are hard or impossible to 
>find in the US.
>
>Abrasha
>http://www.abrasha.com

Sorry, I wasn't thinking when I posted, fotec has loads of interesting links.
There they are in my bookmarks, but I've had toothache all weekend and it switched me brain off!

Cheers

Kevin


From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:02 EST 1996
Article: 43721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 23:52:59 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
>chucks, tooling?
>
>Jim Waggener
>
Lindsay Publishing has some good books on the subject. Cheers Bob



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:03 EST 1996
Article: 43722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 01:35:45 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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Robert wrote:
> 
> What kind of regulator do I need to do cutting with propane in stead of
> acetlene?


I do not know about cutting with propane, but I have been melting and soldering, gold, 
silver and platinum with it for many years.  I have been using an acetylene regulator 
for a long time.

Please note however, that propane is in the tank in the form of a luiquid, with a little 
bit of propane gas on top of it.  The bottle pressure on the regulator will ALWAYS BE 
THE SAME, no matter if the tank in newly filled or always empty, since the regulator can 
only measure the pressure of the gas that "sits" on top of the liquid.  You can however 
set the working pressure to whatever your needs may be.

Do not get a cheap "propane regulator".  On one of these one can not set the working 
pressure accurately.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:05 EST 1996
Article: 43723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 11 Dec 1996 06:30:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 25
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Jim Shockey wrote

>Tanks...er...thanks, Pete. I thought they were made up
of GM blocks. I appreciate your correction. 

Yer velcum. Maybe GM made the same thing. Wartime makes strange bedfellows
etc. 

>>Book says it was used in M4 Sherman. So was Continental radial.
>Shouldn't that be M-48 Sherman?

No, the M48 was a lot later. After the M47 presumably. More like Korean
War vintage or past that. I think the M48 (was that called the "Walker"
tank?) was used in Vietnam. M4 Sherman, in its various versions, was the
kinda tall WW2 tank you see everywhere -- as you state
>The ones found in 
just about every small-town municipal park in the US. 
Again, I could be nuts. If so, remain calm,I'll be OK. 

Remaining calm. There is no need to panic. Proceed in an orderly fashion
to the nearest exit..

Pete

--jim	    <shockey@primenet.com>	Idaho, USA


From gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca Tue Dec 17 14:11:06 EST 1996
Article: 43724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.ucalgary.ca!acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca!gekeays
From: gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca (Gloria Edith Keays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Force Equipment???
Date: 12 Dec 1996 00:54:17 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary
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I visited a local tool store here in Calgary (who might, some
year, be one of the only places I've found who will run a metal
working course...), and they are selling lathes called FORCE.
There are also milling machines there...  I am NOT going to go
and buy one in the next... Oh... 6 months, but I am wondering
what/who might really make them.  Quality did not look that great
(at least, on the smaller, cheaper ones) as there was damaged
ends on the ways, and paint as well.

As an aside, this store (house of tools) is the only store I have
found in this region which carries live steam and HSM.  They seem
to run the courses (ie. welding, knifemaking, various other wood
and metal courses) to persuade the likes of me that this is
"neat" stuff, and of course, buy the stuff you learned on...
Since I haven't found anywhere else (continuing ed, etc.) who
will teach this stuff, I won't complain...

Thanks

rod (on his wife's account)



From regisg@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:07 EST 1996
Article: 43725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 22:44:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <58a7ke$ej7@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
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To: v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca

Try looking for a used jewelry vacuum caster.  New ones can run as low as 
$450 so maybe you can find a cheap used one.   These pull about 
26 microns.

Regis 


v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (John Earle) wrote:
>Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
>project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
>the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
>say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
>of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
>sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
>equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
>
>Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would 
>work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
>
>Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.
>
>




From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:09 EST 1996
Article: 43726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.250.118.17!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 20:25:02 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32AF891E.5BCF@earthlink.net>
References: <01bbe72c$be4b3e00$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca> <19961211173400.MAA28696@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <01bbe72c$be4b3e00$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>, "Bill
> Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca> writes:
> 
> >This will allow you to lock the carriage on the ways,
> >insert the stock into the lathe chuck, face off the initial
> >surface, set the parting tool at the cutoff position
> >desired, reposition the stock until it hits the stop,
> >retract the tailstock a specific distance to permit parting
> >off without damaging the part or the stop, repositioning
> >the tailstock, etc., etc., and then drilling the 1/4 inch
> >hole you require in each part.
> >
> >
> 
> Didn't try this, but as I have responded to Fitch even 0.0015 at the bolt
> circle diameter gave a significant angular displacement, binding the lead
> screws.
> 
> Thanks anyway, I suspect I'll have to spring for the couplings.
> 
> Peter

Peter instead of using four presision spacers, could you use a one inch
section of 3 - 4 OD tubing with the ends machined (turned) parallel. You
could drill a hole in the side of it to access the set screws in the
coupling if necessary or just cut a section of it out.

Another trick, if you've got four soft spacers (aluminum or brass) that
are all within a couple of thousandths of each other, lay them next to
each other inline with the screw in the center of your machine vise and
crush them till they are all tight.

If you need thousands of them I could injection mold them for you.

Hope this helps,

Jay


From douglas401@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:10 EST 1996
Article: 43727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: douglas401@aol.com (Douglas401)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rusting Metal [deliberately]
Date: 12 Dec 1996 01:21:31 GMT
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Simple hydrogen peroxide from the Rx will flash rust ferrous metal. It
helps to have a self-passivating steel as the base


From todengine@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:11 EST 1996
Article: 43728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: todengine@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: 11 Dec 1996 03:48:33 GMT
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I am dismantling a 200 ton cross compound steam engine to move to a
museum.  I need a 3 1/8" socket to remove six bolts that are located in a
most inaccessible place.  Anyone have one for sale or one that I might
borrow.

Rick Rowlands
Tod Engine Project


From radix@wwnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:12 EST 1996
Article: 43729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 04:00:54 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (A private banking cartel)
Lines: 30
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I would like to also point out that, according to James Burke in his TV
series, "The Day the Universe Changed", the develpment of the tooling
necessary to mark off the astrolabe lead to machine tools as we know them
today.  The innovator (don't remember who it was now) basically created a
dividing head...a toothed wheel with a screw to advance the wheel.
-- 
God ==> Man ==> State

W.J.Ward, Redford Twp., Michigan

Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com> wrote in article <58adie$jk0@news2.delphi.com>...
> bohigas wrote:
> >Dear fellow friend:
> >For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
> >Thank You.
> >Alberto
> >from London
> >
> An astrolabe is a primitive navigation instrument designed to measure the
> height of a star above the horizon, thereby letting you determine how far
> north or south you are. Mechanically they are quite simple, being a metal
> circle with one or two sighting vanes that pivot at the center. However
> they need to be marked off and ruled rather precisely.
> 
> Quite a handsome piece of work, especially since they were often
decorated.
> Chaucer wrote a treatise on how to use one.
> 
> --RC
> 


From radix@wwnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:13 EST 1996
Article: 43730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 04:21:28 GMT
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plalbrecht@aol.com wrote in article 

...

> "Know your Metal Shaper" by Sam Brown is a mini-textbook for shaper setup
> and use. "Contour Work with a Metal Shaper", same author, Popular
> Mechanics, Oct 54, p. 219, shows a few more things you can do with one.
> Now I want one...
> 
> Pete
> 

I'd like one too.  But, as other posts in this thread indicate, they're
hard to find.  Locally, there is a used industrial tool reseller.  They
have plenty multi-ton behemoths; shapers that could easily poke holes
through busses.  They have lathes 50 ft. long.  But no little shapers.

Hey, maybe it's time for a shaper revival.

-- 
God ==> Man ==> State

W.J.Ward, Redford Twp., Michigan




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:14 EST 1996
Article: 43731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:02:44 GMT
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

>In article <32ace680.0@mothra.westworld.com>,
>Fitch R. Williams <frwillia@ptw.com> wrote:

>>Not packet radio - I did this in the early sxties - although
>>some were doing TTY using FSK at the time.

>Are you sure that you were not playing with Radio Teletype?? (RTTY).

Neither, I didn't do anything but CW and AM voice - not even
SSB.  I can see how you could get the wrong message from how
I wrote it though.   What I ment was I did not do packet
radio - it didn't exist when I was a HAM in the early
sixties.  

Yes, RTTY is probably technically more accurate than saying
"doing TTY using FSK" - at the time it was done by frequency
shift keying.

>I dont think that packet existed until the 70 or 80s. Packet as
>we know it today requires a Terminal Node Controller (TNC) that
>has a microprocessor in it. Hint: Micros happened in th 70s.

I know.  I went to EE school on vacume tubes, (older than
anchient things that were big, got hot, used a lot of power
just in filaments, and took up a lot of room).  I remember
when a six transistor radio was hot stuff and cost $100.00 -
and that was a lot of money at that time.  I remember real
magnetic cores, using flipflops as elements in registers,
using TTY terminals to access the timeshare mainframe  (and
coming home with a splitting headache from sitting in a room
full of them), storing my simulation models on paper tape,
the Trash 80 and audio tape drives, "V" belt driven floppy
disks, PDP 8's, booting with switches, Compucorp calculators
with "nixie tube" displays, the PET, the first time I got to
hold and use an HP35 with my own trembling hands, the Apple,
Apple II, and, believe it or not,  that the microprocessor
was invented in the 70s - though my mental media does have
some divots in it., and perhaps some age induced
permeability reduction, so reminding me doesn't hurt.  <G>  

>Digital communications modes are fairly common on today bands.
>Packet radio is only one of several mode. The main distinction
>of Packet, is that it allows one user to have virtual connections
>to many other. Typically that one user would be a buliten board 
>service (BBS).

>>Built all my own stuff.  Building it was much more fun than
>Rarely done today.

I know.  Lots of HAMs at work never built even a CPO.
Appliance operating wasn't my thing  ....   and I got
interested in airplanes, my kids and motorcycles, then
sailing, my kids and RC gliders and planes, then wood
working, my kids and horses, then metal working (today).  So
many hobbies, so little time.  Sigh ....  

>>lot less expensive than horses, sailboats, or machine shops.
>Very true.

>Anyway, we are way off the subject of this NG.....

True.  

Fitch






From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:15 EST 1996
Article: 43732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:04:16 GMT
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:


>>Lets see ... www.forteinc.com ... that was it, full version
>>has a *real* nice feature as I read the borchure .....

>Yah, but it only works for newsgroups at the moment - apparently they
>are working on a similar feature for email :)

>Jens

When that enhancement arrives, I will cherish it also, but,
I don't wanna wait.

Fitch
Who gets much more Junk E-mail since he began using NGs



From tonyd@spec.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:17 EST 1996
Article: 43733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tony <tonyd@spec.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:20:15 -0500
Organization: digitalNation
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
> writes:
> 
> >I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
> >sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
> >table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
> >tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?
> >

MSC is advertising a clamping device that grabs the work from the sides
and leaves the top clear. Look in their big book in the workholding area.


From tonyd@spec.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:18 EST 1996
Article: 43734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tony <tonyd@spec.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:17:24 -0500
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
> writes:
> 
> >I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
> >sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
> >table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
> >tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?
> >

MSC is advertising a clamping device that grabs the work from the sides
and leaves the top clear. Look in their big book in the workholding area.


From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:18 EST 1996
Article: 43735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 21:11:54 +0000
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <58bja3$beh@shellx.best.com>, stas@best.com (Stan Malyshev)
> writes:
> 
> >>Think of the unique design of the "Harley Davidson" no matter how
> >>much our Japanese friends doctor with their Honda, no motor bike
> >>will ever feel like "Harley Davidson, unless they copy the original
> >>engineering design nut by nut and bolt by bolt.
> >
> "no motor bike will ever feel like "Harley Davidson"
> >
> 
> That is indeed a blessing. If you know anything about really *riding* a
> motorbike, your first (18th??) choice would definitely not be a Harley.
> Ask me about my Mike Hailwood replica, 1000cc Ducati. Sweet bliss. Fast,
> smooth, more grunt than an angry bear and handling that can make a grown
> man cry with joy, able to stop on a dime and give 9-cents change! The
> sound from the Silencios? *Music*
> 
> Peter
> Still adhering to the rule....
>  "There are old motor bike riders,
>  "There are bold motor bike riders,
>  "But, there are no old and bold motor bike riders!

Peter:

Ducatis are indeed a wonderful, although somewhat single purpose 
machines.  I'd submit, though, that a Harley XR750, produced in about 
the same numbers as your Ducati, wouldn't bore you...

Mike


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:20 EST 1996
Article: 43736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:08:25 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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References: <32a661b7.1637149@news.mindlink.net> <58ai8a$87t@newshost.netrix.com> <58c47c$47c@news.dca.net> <32ac1061.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58ir43$mk3@news.dca.net>
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amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller) wrote:

>In article <32ac1061.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) says:
>>
>>amuller@dca.net (Alan Muller) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>As a data point, I have to replace the diodes in a Miller "Dialarc" 
>>>250 Amp AC/DC welder.  According to Miller, these diodes are 150A 300 V.
>>>They cost about $26 from Miller which is the same price I got from
>>>an electronics supply house.
>>
>>>Hope this helps.
>>
>>Do you know if they are used in a bridge?
>>
>>The voltage rating is instructive.  The line inductance in
>>high current DC circuits can make some nasty voltage spikes.
>>
>>Fitch
>>
>Yes, they are in a bridge.  I think there are some disk capacitors 
>(or possibly MOVs, but they are blue) across the diodes, presumably
>for shunting transients.

>am

Thanks for the data.  Based on that I think the 200V diodes
could be under rated voltage wise - I've not had a scope on
a welding system.  Have lots of data on high current DC
power systems with long cables though.  The diodes mentioned
might be OK if they had some sort of peak voltage
protection.  

The peak voltage transients that can occurr after cleanly
interrupting the current flow in a high current DC system
have to be seen to be believed.   Miller might be using
MOVs, though I'm not sure how long they would last.  MOVs
also tend to have a relatively steeply increasing voltage
with increasing current - they could be asked to dump 300+
amps for a few (maybe 40) microseconds which would make them
have relatively high voltage drop - maybe as much as 200V
depending on what ones were selected - but much less than
would otherwise be seen by the diodes.  

It also depends a little bit on the open circuit voltage of
the welder itself.  The Lincoln SA200 I used summer before
last was 75 volts open circuit, but it was a purely DC
generator, brushes and all.  My Ranger 8, with solid state
controls, AC generator, no brushes, and diodes to convert to
DC  is less, maybe half of that, but I don't remember the
number with confidence at the moment.  Its raining and cold
so I don't think I will go and dig out the schematic on it
at the moment.

The higher open circuit voltage makes the situation worse.

It wouldn't surprise me to find 20 to 25 mH in a typical set
of welding cables.  An inductor or reactor to stabilize the
arc would significantly increase that in the hot lead.  

The 200V parts might last quite a while with a lot of luck,
or get smoked early on if Murphy is on the job and paying
attention.  The diodes would do better with MOVs across them
that could take 300 or 400 amps at an environmental
temperature of say 150F for a few microseconds and not
exceed 100 volts or so.  

Fitch
Diodes have a voltage sensative smoke bushing ...




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:21 EST 1996
Article: 43737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:11:43 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32ae419d.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32ade0de.344152250@news.islandnet.com> <19961209211500.QAA22777@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32ade0de.344152250@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
>(Jens) writes:

>>Can anybody tell me why the visor is so great rather than to use a
>>loope type ???? 
>>The visor type doesn't seem to get high enough in the magnifications
>>for real close inspection ....
>>
>>

>With this type of magnification I find you can stack them up for increased
>power.

>I bought 4.5 reading glasses at Longs, that coupled with the standard 2.5
>of the visor with the extra 3 of the inside flip down and the single loupe
>mounted on the outside I can get about 15x. Focal length shortens
>dramatically but is so adjustable for power I still like them. To answer
>the first part last, You take them with you. I use them for close up work
>on the lathe, setting up the mill and sitting at the bench stoning cutters
>and the like.

>Peter
>Still a little one-eyed even with all this magnifying power!

Dang!  I'm gonna go get me one o them genuine microprocessor
controlled  wide angle optically coated polarized see in the
dark  100% solid state 12.5X zoom loops.   American made
too.  Not a work in progress some assembly required
battteries not included bring your own Windex and lense wipe
where did I set them all down and how did that oiley finger
print get *there* cludge like *that*.  <G>

Fitch
Feeling for the enter key .... wishing he hadn't had RK
surgery ... used to be the world champion at removing
slivers ... 20/750 eyes had an unassisted focal length of
about 8" with one eye shut ... can't even *see* slivers now
except  with a rig like Peters ... but I *can* find the ...
uh ... water closet with out glasses at zero dark thirty ...
and have one less thing to find in a hurry when the earth
starts shaking ...




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:22 EST 1996
Article: 43738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:13:18 GMT
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Message-ID: <32ae41fb.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32AC1D85.59F1@moa.net> <19961209211600.QAA22783@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32AC1D85.59F1@moa.net>, Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
>writes:

>>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
>>application?
>>
>>

>Depends where you are cutting the groove. In the middle between the chuck
>and tyhe steady, yes, near the chuck or steady no. Begs the next question
>though, why use a steady and not the tailstock with a bullnose center?
>Generally the saddle is used on the tailstock side of the steady.

>Peter

Well, I could be wrong, it surely wouldn't be the first time
even today, but I thought he was cutting the snapring groove
*inside* the tube.  If that is the case, the bullnose might
create complications? <G>

Fitch
Who apparently can't write clearly, and maybe doesn't read
clearly ... I need a loupe front for my whole monitor  ...





From jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:23 EST 1996
Article: 43739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "D.Young" <jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 21:09:17 -0800
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Hi there,

	I know very little about welding but I would like to learn the art.  It
just seems like such a useful skill.  I wouldn't mind throughing
together a utility trailer to start with.  What would be the best type
of welding setup that would be cheap and easy to operate for a beginner
such as myself???  Any comments or suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks, Dan


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:24 EST 1996
Article: 43740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!goro-a5.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 05:46:24 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <32ae3ba9.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <19961210022600.VAA01706@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210170101.MAA21225@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <19961210022600.VAA01706@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>plalbrecht@aol.com writes:

>>I don't know much about shaper operations. I guess I'll get vol. 2 of the
>>Moltrecht book. What exactly is the "spline tool" somebody mentioned? I
>>don't think it's in there, unless that's another name for a keyway tool.
>>There is one tool included that appears to be like a normal tool except
>>it's extended outward, sort of an L-shape, which I guess is the keyway
>>tool. 
>>
>>

>Only one thing you really need to know about shapers, keep your hands out
>of the way. You will be amazed at how far past the end of the set srtroke
>they can advance to chase carelessly placed hands and fingers. Chomp,
>gone.

>Peter
>Who's true love is a shaper.

They can follow you around to places you aint even been yet.
And they will bite the hand that feeds them with out
growling first!

Best advice - After turning it on, don't touch anything but
the off switch till all motion has totally stopped.
Although I'm told there are techniques ... which I am
chicken to try so far.

Fitch
Who still has all 8 fingers and two thumbs fully functional,
but just barely missed donating a thumb to a shaper when a
youngster.  It was a *painful* lesson.  I am still using the
same shaper  42 years later though.  Older, wiser, flexing
fingers, checking them hourely, watching the floor for signs
...... 




From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:26 EST 1996
Article: 43741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:17:56 GMT
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <58lg64$1p4u$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
References: <19961210012700.UAA29864@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com>
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In <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com>, Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> How do you keep your welding rods dry?
>> 
>> Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Ron Norris
>they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing

If you only have a few (10lbs or less) Northern sells the plastic sealed 
containers for under $10.	

For larger collection, I used an army surplus ammo can (the tall 50 caliber kind)
and put pvc tubes in it. This divides the rod types up and seals shut. This tall
ammo can is just long enough for welding rods. Check army/navy store.
Holds about 50lbs of rods.
Randy Ray
randyr@ibm.net


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:27 EST 1996
Article: 43742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!goro-a5.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:20:40 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <32ae43b6.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32ac1052.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>Apple didn't recognize the Intel machines as serious
>>competition for their better idea.  That is in short the
>>story of Apples reduction to a vestigial presence in the
>>desktop computer market.  I will be surprised if they stay
>>at all with out making such big changes you won't recognize
>>them as "Apple" anymore.
>>
>>It is a perfect example of a company that believed they had
>>a better mousetrap ... so good it was immune to competition.
>>It wasn't.
>>
>>

>Keep your eye on Sun (Microstation fame) eating apples in the near future.

>Peter

Wouldn't surprise me at all.  They make some good stuff.
Although SUN has the honor of sending me the biggest box of
errata I've ever seen for a new set of manuals - it was like
two reams of paper two sided!

Talk about "work-in-progress".  But good workstations.  And
anyway, real Unix folks don't need no stinking manuals, and
type in the root while talking on the phone, etc.  I can
barely spell Unix.  (Thats uNiX Andy).

BTW There were two posts of mine that leaped out of my
computer onto the net.  This was one.  I was having some
problems a while ago, jumping back and forth between
netscape and Free Agent, and that one was left unsent in the
outbox.  I usually review and send them one at a time but
was trying to get them off before work (about 0515 AM - my
PC is still on daylight savings time) and used the group
send - so the two old ones went also.

Oh well ....

Fitch
But I stray off the path of swarf and purity ... again.




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:28 EST 1996
Article: 43743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:27:27 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <32ae454d.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <01bbe6ac$d2655400$015cefce@scshome> <19961210171700.MAA21520@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <01bbe6ac$d2655400$015cefce@scshome>, "Steve Stallings"
><steves@emailaddress.com> writes:

>>If you need spacers that are the same length but the exact length is
>>not critical try this: Surface finish both sides of a block large
>>enough for four spacers. Drill the four holes; THEN cut it into four 
>>pieces and do any additional work required for the final shape.
>>
>>

>You were indeed correct about the need for accurate spacers, I am trying
>to do away with the $67 non-backlash high-torque, flex couplings for
>direct drive.

>As to your suggestion for the block, now that *is* a cool idea. The blocks
>will be under a metal chip guard so no-one gets to see they have been
>bandsawed off.

>Peter

Yes.  I'd probably just buy a piece of 1" X 1" precision
ground stock, drill holes in it, and saw off some pieces.

Or, if you have a piece of 1" rod, and really want to make
them round, I would try the following.  

Cut  roughly to length and face one end of all of them but
leave +.010 of extra length.  

Drill them all in the lathe, and then set up to face them
off all at one setting.  

To face to final length, use a block (precision parallel
works well) across the chuck to locate the first one in the
chuck (after tightening the chuck on the work, remove the
parallel!), position and lock the carriage, tighten the gibs
on the compound, use a carbide insert tool (to get
repeatability if the bit gets dull or somehow damaged) and
then face them off one at a time.  Leave everything alone
between pieces.  Stop the lathe,  loosen the chuck to slide
the work back from the cutter, backup the cross feed, remove
the work, and chuck the next one using the exact same
locating block (parallel).  

Should be good to .001 repeatability in length.  If you work
carefully, you can probably get them to 1" plus or minus
0005.  

Fitch







From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:29 EST 1996
Article: 43744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What About a "Jet" Benchmill?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:28:14 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32ae457c.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <58i7jm$dc9@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>,
>rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>>    A local machine dealer has a "Jet" brand bench-top size mill coming
>>up for sale this week. I get first chance at it....but the only trouble
>>is that I have never heard of it. Probably it is offshore - but that
>>can mean anything. Anyone have any knowledge of this make? Only thing I
>>know so far is that it is about a 3' bed, 110 or 220 single phase,
>>comes with basic collets, drill chuck, vise, and a bent lead screw!
>>    He wants to get 600 to 700??? What do you think?
>>   

>If it is a Mill/Drill then buy one *new* from Harbor Fright or Enco for
>$699 when on special. They come with drill chuck, hold down set, vise and
>a few other bits and pieces.

>Sounds like $450 would be a good deal, anything more and let someone else
>have the bargain. Call Jet and ask for a price on the new lead screw.
>(206) 383-8705, that'll help you make up your mind in a hurry.

>If it is the benchtop knee mill then grab it for $800 as they normally run
>around $2K.

>Peter

An observation: The bench top knee mill appears to have
rather limited space available between the spindle and
table.  In general knee mills are good, but I might measure
it carefully to be sure there was room for the stuff I
wanted to take some chips off.

Fitch





From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:31 EST 1996
Article: 43745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 06:30:21 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <32ae45fa.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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rnorris583@aol.com wrote:

>How do you keep your welding rods dry?

>Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.

>Thanks

>Ron Norris

Depends on what rod you are talking about.  The "O" ring
container is usually OK except for low hydrogen rod.

7018 (low hydrogen) rod needs to be stored at around 300F to
stay dry.  It can exceed some welding moisture
specifications in as little as 2 hours after being unsealed
under some conditions.  The good news, you can dry it back
out with an hour at about 700F (by the book) - although I
have had reasonably good experience after a couple of hours
at 500F in the kitchen oven.  

Handle carefully when taking out of oven.  This rod is not
good to weld with if it is not dry - it handles poorly,
sputters, and can give weld cracking.  

Dry, it is one of my favorite rods, so I bought a small 10lb
capacity oven to keep 7018 in.  I bake out some and add it
to the oven from the 50lb container when the oven runs low
or at the end of a day when I used some non trivial portion
of it.  

If you want to build an oven for 7018, I'd use a heating
element from Grainger (for example) and a double walled
container with the heater between walls, and insulation
around the outside.

Look at a commercially made 10 or 50 lb oven - vertical (top
loading) model.  Shouldn't be to hard to duplicate.

Fitch





From dberry@sure.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:32 EST 1996
Article: 43746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dberry@sure.net (David W Berryhill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Logan lathe for sale (L.A. area)
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:16:26 GMT
Organization: SureNet Corp.
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In article <58nplc$qgm$1@sun1.sure.net>, dberry@sure.net says...
>
>Logan lathe for sale - L.A. area (Redondo Beach).  12 x 36, wired for 
>110v, recently rebuilt.  Has 3 & 4 jaw chucks, vari-belt drive, KDK 
tool 
>holder with several extra, steady rest, coolant system, $2,000.00.  
Send 
>e-mail to dberry@sure.net
>



From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:33 EST 1996
Article: 43747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Gas welding FAQ/info?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:23:04 GMT
Lines: 25
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In <32ace39c.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) writes:
>filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz) wrote:
>
>>In Article <slrn5a654c.rd4.rbinder@y.ucf.engr>, through puissant locution, rbinder@y.ucf.engr (Rubin Binder) soliloquized:
>>>Anyone know of any oxy-acetylene FAQ's or other info available on the net?
>
>>Greetings. Not that I have seen.. but a trip to the local library in search
>>of MIG welding books showed a list of about 4 oxac books. I wish I had
>>found even one exclusively-MIG book... but NooooOOOOoooo...  [sigh]
>

A good friend of mine picked up a nice book at his welding class dedicated
to MIG & TIG welding only. It is called:

Basic Tig & Mig Welding (third ed)
Ivan H. Griffin, Edward M. Roden, Charles W. Briggs
Delmar Publishers
LCCN 83-18844
ISBN 0-8273-2129-5

Softback 119 pages
Good charts & pics.

Randy Ray
randyr@ibm.net


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:34 EST 1996
Article: 43748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AC1D85.59F1@moa.net>, Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
writes:

>Hi all,
>I saw a post here about  parting tools and skreeching (excessive noise 
>when cutting). I have experienced this in only one situation, That is 
>when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tubeof length 
>that requires a steady rest. I am pretty sure that I am lined up on 
>center but is this noise something that I should be concerned with?
>Will  it damage my machine?, cutting tools? The groove gets cut but it 
>sure hurts  me in more ways than one while doing it. Would excessive 
>runout cause this I am at about 600 rpm 6061 t-6 aluminum extruded 
>tubing. 
>This leads me to my next question-
>
>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
>application?
>
>Any help would be great.
>Thanks

  You might try tightening the fingers of the steady rest on the tube a
little. You can also try slowing the speed down if you can. If that
doesn't work you might try a different shape tool and or raising and
lowering the cutting edge in relation to center line. A really thin
cutting tool and several passes might also solve this. If none of the
above help you will probably have to live with it. Its most likely caused
by the flexibility of the tube. The only way I know that will solve it is
to have a lathe big enough that you can stick it through the head stock
and chuck it next to the cut.

 Hope this helps

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:36 EST 1996
Article: 43749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Grinding Again
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961209200300.PAA20923@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
cbear81438@aol.com writes:

>
>I was using a single phase Mig welder this weekend and it seemed to be
>underpowered (Millermatic 35 with spool gun)  When the 3 phase 10 hp
>compressor in the shop kicked on, the welder worked great.  When it quit,
>the welder went back to sputtering?  Any Ideas?
>
>

  It sounds to me like the wireing to the welder outlet is not heavy
enough and is causing a voltage drop. The compressor may have boosted the
voltage to the outlet. 

 Just a guess but you might try hooking a volt meter to the outlet while
running the welder and see.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From christopher@woodworks.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:38 EST 1996
Article: 43750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: christopher@woodworks.com (Christopher Wood)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 00:21:11 -0500
Organization: Woodworks
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In article <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>, zoner@goodnet.com (Saved
Soul) wrote:

> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

I believe this is more accurately ETERNAL SPAMATION.

*sigh* I couldn't resist.

-Christopher "Doesn't need saved (or spammed)" Wood


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:39 EST 1996
Article: 43751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:15 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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References: <19961209211600.QAA22783@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961209211600.QAA22783@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>
>Depends where you are cutting the groove. In the middle between the chuck
>and tyhe steady, yes, near the chuck or steady no. Begs the next question
>though, why use a steady and not the tailstock with a bullnose center?
>Generally the saddle is used on the tailstock side of the steady.
>
>Peter
>
>

  Peter try reading it again. He said "internal snap ring groove".



   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:40 EST 1996
Article: 43752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Getting Back
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:54:13 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <19961211055301.AAA13298@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32ac1068.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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In article <32ac1068.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>garyh82012@aol.com wrote:
>
>>What I meant to say was: How do I get the neswgroup window to display
all
>>messages? The help  window mentions a choice called "List All subjects"
>>but I don't see that option anywhere. I want to look up some old
postings,
>>such as the address and phone # for Atlas/Clausing, but they are no
longer
>>displayed. I am only seeing new postings. Please help if you can,
thanks,
>>Gary
>
>It would help to know what software you are using.
>
>

  I wrote a response to this a couple of days ago and then lost all my
mail and newsgroup files before I could send it. So here goes again. In
response to Fitch look at his signature and you can see that he is on AOL.
Since they don't allow you to use any other programs but there own I'm
assuming thats what he's got. 

  Now for the the original problem. I'm assuming that you're trying to do
this offline in the PFC. You must go online to get to the read listings.
Go to keyword newsgroups and click on read my newgroups. Then you will see
the the buttons you're talking about. Also when you get to the listing of
posts you will see a button for preferences. Clicking that will show you a
place to tell how long to keep listings. The standard is 2 weeks but you
can change this. I don' know if changing it after the fact will help any
but you can try. If the post has scrolled of the list then I would suggest
you try the dejanews archive but someone else can help you better than I
can at this since I've never used it.


   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From brosenguy@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:41 EST 1996
Article: 43753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brosenguy@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Small Lathe recommendations?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:55:33 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

I would like to buy a small lathe... 9x 20" or smaller. I like the Emco
Maier and Prazi European lathes, but am not sure I want to spend $2700.
Are they that much better than the Jet and Grizzly products? I am afraid
of buying Chinese and ending up with a piece of junk. This lathe will be
for pleasure, not income. What about the Sherline product? How does it
compare? I have worked on a 13" x 40" Logan or Republic and I know how
things should work.
Please send e-mail direct to BRosenguy@AOL.com so I don't have to search
this ng. Thanks.
-Burt


From Tom@Atlanta.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:42 EST 1996
Article: 43754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Burns <Tom@Atlanta.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9x20 Lathe Vertical Slide Ass'y
Date: 11 Dec 1996 05:59:36 GMT
Organization: Freelancin' Fool
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <58lik8$6f2$1@metro.atlanta.com>
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To: jbottoms@world.std.com
X-URL: news:E27EB3.HM@world.std.com

JB, I'm buying the Grizzly milling attachment from a friend with the 
9x20 in mind. Did Grizzly tell you specifically what chanage were 
required?...Tom

jbottoms@world.std.com (John W Bottoms) wrote:
>My lathe is an Enco 9x20 and I'd like to try milling on it using
>a vertical slide assembly.  The Grizzly engineer says theirs will
>only fit with some serious rework.  Anyone know of a vertical to
>fit the 9x20?
>
>-jb




From bharne@adss.on.ca Tue Dec 17 14:11:44 EST 1996
Article: 43755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Bill Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 06:30:16 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 55
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Perhaps I'm being naive, but . . .

If your headstock will permit passage of stock of the
diameter which you wish to make the spacer of, can't you
use your tailstock as a "stop"?

This will allow you to lock the carriage on the ways,
insert the stock into the lathe chuck, face off the initial
surface, set the parting tool at the cutoff position
desired, reposition the stock until it hits the stop,
retract the tailstock a specific distance to permit parting
off without damaging the part or the stop, repositioning
the tailstock, etc., etc., and then drilling the 1/4 inch
hole you require in each part.

I'm assuming, of course, that the tailstock is equiped with
a calibrated thimble for positioning purposes. Mine is and
I use this precedure frequently for making parts of
identical length.

Even if your tailstock is not calibrated, it is simple
enough to clamp a stop to the ways (to which your tailstock
can be butted) to accomplish the same purpose.
-- 
Bill Harnell [bharne@adss.on.ca]

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote in article
<19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> G'day,
> 
> Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am
mounting three
> NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with
at least a 1/4"
> diameter hole through them.
> 
> Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly*
the same length. I
> don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing
game to machine
> them to the exact same length in the lathe. 
> 
> I thought of using hardened drill bushes but the ones I
have measured vary
> in length by several thou. Any suggestions for an
off-the-shelf item that
> would work? They can be square round hex, anything as
long as the length
> is consistant with a 1/4" or larger hole through them.
Hell the hole can
> even be off-center.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 


From glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:45 EST 1996
Article: 43756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary Lowell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: 11 Dec 1996 07:25:53 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <58lnm1$iqh@fido.asd.sgi.com>
References: <donahue-1012961148140001@snews.zippo.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: thorn.engr.sgi.com

In article <donahue-1012961148140001@snews.zippo.com>,
Gavin Donahue <donahue@continet.com> wrote:
>I just aquired a Southbend 9" model "B" and need a thread dial and
>manuals. I'm also interested if anybody has opinions on toolpost options,
>collet setups and  mailorder suppliers (or?) to obtain them. Are metric
>changegears available or instructions for making them (I have a small mill
>but no dividing head yet)? Thanks for considering my request and replies
>via posting or email are much appreciated.
>
>donahue@continet.com

I'm just getting started equipping a 9" SB Model C, and have the same
question about the toolpost options.  I actually have a lantern tool
post, but need to at least buy some tool holders.  I have received one
opinion that that the lantern toolpost and 1/4" HSS bits in standard SB
style holders are adequate for just about anything.  I have another
opinion that new style quick change toolpost and holders offer
much more stability and are useful in that regard for the beginner.
I have received similarly conflicting opinions on indexable carbide
bits.

If you call up SB with your serial number they will be able to tell
you when your lathe was made and who it was originally sold to.  The
also have the drawings and maintenance manual for $20.  The package
that I got also included their accessories catalog.  All the accessories
are still available from SB, but you don't want to know the prices.
There is a metric transposing gear for cutting metric threads on an
English lath.

A good source of information is Chris Kantarjiev's web page at
www.dimebank.com.  Also, there was an article in a recent issues
Home Shop Machinist or Projects in Metal about the restoration of
a Model B lather.  Both these list sources of supply for
used accessories that are much cheaper than SB.

Cheers,
Gary Lowell
glowell@engr.sgi.com


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:46 EST 1996
Article: 43757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS  EMCO COMPACT 5 CNC LATHE
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:44:22 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> greetings fellow groupies
> 
> for sale for sale for sale
> 
> Emco Compact 5 CNC lathe
> comeplete with:
> 3-jaw chuck
> 13pc collet set
> collet nose
> emco qc toolpost
> 6 toolblocks
> tailstock
> programable spindle speed
> keypad with led display
> built in cassette recorder
> 


Built in cassette recorder?!?  Wow, I'm impressed.  If you have the complete works of 
Frank Zappa with it also, I'll take it. ;-)

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From yarvin@cs.yale.edu Tue Dec 17 14:11:47 EST 1996
Article: 43758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ycc.yale.edu!yale.edu!not-for-mail
From: yarvin@cs.yale.edu (Norman Yarvin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 11 Dec 1996 02:43:49 -0500
Organization: Yale Computer Science Department
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <58lonlINNag9@HOBBES.NA.CS.YALE.EDU>
References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.961209095634.14404O-100000@reliant> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961204095738.11754C-100000@reliant> <19961207030600.WAA05348@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobbes.na.cs.yale.edu

"John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu> wrote:

>								The
>real limitation of the rotary engines, and what finally caused their
>downfall when we were able to cool the cylinders without spinning them,
>was the poor fuel and oil efficiency.  It was not feasible to increase
>the compression ratio above about 4 or 5 to one without melting the
>pistons and they could not get the oil comsumption down.

My impression was that at that time (WW1), gasoline was around 55
octane, and cars all had compression ratios of 4 or 6 to one.  So the
quoted compression ratio doesn't sound like it'd give too big a
disadvantage by itself.



--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:48 EST 1996
Article: 43759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 12:55:24 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 6 Dec 1996 22:23:49 GMT, bohigas@aol.com wrote:

>Dear Jay:
>
>An upright solid steel cylinder of 12 " diametre and a length of 6 ft, was
>
>elevated with saturated steam by 8 ft, and mechanically locked.
>
>On demand the cylinder was released and then crashed down
>with its full weight into the forming  tool, creating the coin image.
>A steam cushion was then used to absorb some of the vibration.
>
>
>My question is:
>
>What is the tonnage of the RAM ?

Well, I'm not Jay, but carbon steel has a mass of 0.2833 lbs per cubic
inch.  Your ram is 8143.008 cubic inches (pi*r^2*l) so the weight is
2306.9 lbs or 1046.4 kg.

All figures from Machinery's Handbook.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From phony@see.sig.for.real Tue Dec 17 14:11:49 EST 1996
Article: 43760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: phony@see.sig.for.real
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:37:28 GMT
Organization: iiNet Technologies
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brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

>(Dave Brooks) phony@see.sig.for.real wrote:
>: >
>:  Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
>: above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
>: gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
>: Why did they ever do it that way?
>
 Many thanks, everyone, for the enlightening replies. Consensus seems
to be that the main reason was better cooling, with the poor-quality
lubrication available then.


>:     "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au
>
>Nice 'from line'.  Does it work?  I'm getting tired of EarthStar.com...
>
 It seems to. The DSI (daily spam index -tm :) has reduced
significantly since I did this, although it's not yet to zero.


--  Dave Brooks    <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb>
PGP public key via <http://www.iinet.net.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers
    "From" line rigged to foil spambots: daveb <at> iinet.net.au


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:51 EST 1996
Article: 43761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:40:49 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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Message-ID: <alshinn-1112962240490001@ppp074-sf2.sirius.com>
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

You could press 7 spacers into a thin walled tube and then face both ends
of the conglomerate in your lathe--they aughta be pretty close to one
another that way.

-- 
Al Shinn   (Tinker)
alshinn@ sirius.com


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:52 EST 1996
Article: 43762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:45:08 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
have for sale.
I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.

Jim "Ashamed of hisself" Harvey
joker!@hre.com
http://hre.com



From emporer@success.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:54 EST 1996
Article: 43763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: emporer@success.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:53:57 GMT
Organization: a Digital Internet AlphaServer Site
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References: <32A5427C.3234@metz.une.edu.au>
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>   Lindsay Rowlands <lrowland@metz.une.edu.au> writes:
>  I'm seeking help in locating some plans that I can use to get a 
>  modest forge up and running. I want to heat mild steel and 'smith'
>  it rather than make castings to build a 747 ;-)
>  
>  If anyone can point me in the right direction I will be most
>  appreciative. And apologies all round if this has been covered
>  before - I've only been looking in here a little while.
>  
>  Cheers,
>  -- 
>  Lindsay Rowlands, Faculty of Arts, University of New England, Armidale
>  NSW Australia.
>  
>>>>
Here is a description of my $30/ 30 minute coalburning forge construction:

NO, but I'll run you through it quick:

Go to a local farm supply stor, purchase a large cutting disk replacement:  Looks
sort of like a big hub cap painted black, with a hole in the center: it's made of
tempered steel, weights a ton, and has sharp edges, so never drop it on your foot!

Also buy a large diameter (1 1/2 inch or 2 inch) galvanized steel t section pipe,
and one screw in cap to fit.

If you don't have appropriate stock at hand you will need 4 3 foot pipes to serve as 
legs- to get really fancy, buy threaded caps to make the legs removable.

For air feed, buy a length of collapsible aluminum vent pipe.

Finally, buy a steel straining spoon for deep fryer- looks like a very shallow bowl
with lots of bb sized holes in it and a long handle.

Assembly: weld the T to the bottom of the Cutter at one end, so you will have a right
angle lead in for air and a straight drop to let ash and (if you leave it out in the 
rain) water out.  The hole must be completely surrounded by pipe, so all air goes
into the forge.

Weld a straight piece of scrap onto the cap to serve as a handle, screw into bottom of
T

Weld the four legs on around the rim

Cut the handle from the spoon, round off, and weld it to the inside, covering the
hole

Extend the vent tubing, squeeze one end tight around the t intake.

Flip your forge so it stands on its legs

Attach air source to other end of vent tubing

Build fire in center of forge:  I like to use a little newspaper, topped with a
teepee of sticks, sprinkled with coal

Light fire, start air supply

Add more coal, look for yellow smoke- sign of coal converting to coke

Pile coal nice and deep, keep feeding in from outer walls to center, add more to
outside:  You are actually preforming two steps:  Convert coal to coke near rim,
and burn coke to heat metal in center.  Remove whiteish lumps- this is clinker:
unburnable byproducts of impure coke- seems to glow a little, but not providing
heat- blackens almost immediately when removed from fire.

You will want to play around with your air source-  to much and you blow the 
fire and even the fuel out of the forge, too little and the fire never gets
really hot.

Stay away from household charcoal- it has a very high sand content, which will crap 
up the forge or blow out (and a cloud of hot glass particles is no fun at all,
plus it will never really get hot enough.

Possible air sources:  Shop Vacc (must have OUT outlet, do not suck air in!)
Powerful blow drier (the heated air doesn't hurt, but is a waste of electricity
most likely...)  Leaf Blower ( too much air, you will need a rheostat/dimmer
to turn it sdown to a useable range)

Good luck, tell me how it goes!







From emporer@success.net Tue Dec 17 14:11:55 EST 1996
Article: 43764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!lily.redrose.net!john
From: emporer@success.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for spun tops
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:58:02 GMT
Organization: a Digital Internet AlphaServer Site
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <58h5ta$cse@lily.redrose.net>
References: <58fbri$md4@lily.redrose.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: d47.redrose.net
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

>   emporer@success.net writes:
>  >   gemmetspin@aol.com writes:
>  >  If you can't find a supplier for off the shelf items contace a local metal
>  >  spinner, they will be able to make just about anything you're interested
>  >  in.
>  Looking in my local yellow pages, I see:

>  No Metal Spinners.  Any other possible code words, or am I just in a benighted 
>  area?  I'll phone a friend in the Philadelphia area and get him to read me the
>  metal section of their yellow pages...
>  
 Hey, there are 9 different companies in the Greater Philedelphia area under Metal Spinning!

I'll give them a ring as soon as the hour becomes decent.

Lance
LaForge
http://www.joust.com/LaForge


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:56 EST 1996
Article: 43765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Newsreaders
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:31:53 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32aea004.666342@news.sprynet.com>
References: <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net> <32aceb55.0@mothra.westworld.com> <32ad5a01.440698921@news.islandnet.com>
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On Mon, 09 Dec 1996 10:35:08 -0800, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>
>
>>Lets see ... www.forteinc.com ... that was it, full version
>>has a *real* nice feature as I read the borchure .....
>
>Yah, but it only works for newsgroups at the moment - apparently they
>are working on a similar feature for email :)

It works.  It's called Agent (not Free Agent).  Costs $29.  Also has
Kill-File, and Watch.
Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From wwebster@nortel.ca Tue Dec 17 14:11:57 EST 1996
Article: 43766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!nrchh45.rich.nt.com!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bmerhc5e.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 07:44:29 -0500
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <wwebster-1112960744290001@47.116.15.87>
References: <19961210012700.UAA29864@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ae45fa.0@mothra.westworld.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarmebf.bnr.ca

> rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >How do you keep your welding rods dry?
> 
> >Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
> 
> >Thanks
> 
> >Ron Norris

If you don't mind rods in the kitchen, you can simple put the rods on top
of the kitchen frig.  There's lots of hot air being convected off the back
of the frig.  Works for me!

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:11:58 EST 1996
Article: 43767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E28yI8.Fyp@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com> <19961210012700.UAA29864@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:27:43 GMT
Lines: 23


I keep my rods in an old surplus 50Cal ammunition box.  They seal airtight.



In a previous article, thomas8@ix.netcom.com (Tom) says:

>rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> How do you keep your welding rods dry?
>> 
>> Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Ron Norris
>they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From lbartel@veribest.com Tue Dec 17 14:11:59 EST 1996
Article: 43768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.ingr.com!inn23b.b23b.ingr.com!news
From: Les Bartel <"(email me at) lbartel"@veribest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:21:19 -0600
Organization: VeriBest, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>
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Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
bits are sized in fractions of an inch.

 - les

-- 

 - les

I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
mean.

My return mail address is incorrect to prevent spammers from getting
my real address.

Les Bartel
lbartel@veribest.com
VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:12:00 EST 1996
Article: 43769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E28ys9.G0w@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <280724877wnr@frasco.demon.co.uk> <32A2F5A9.1267@veribest.com> <581cfo$ck3@bluto.accesscomm.net> <32aa0b43.6123180@new
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:33:44 GMT
Lines: 46


In a previous article, fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk (Frank Scott) says:

>In article: <32aa0b43.6123180@news.demon.co.uk>  dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk 
>(Andy Dingley) writes:
>> OK, I admit it - I've been out-geeked. I _hate_ it when people are
>> talking about something and I finally have to admit that it's
>> completely over my head.
>> 
>> Just what the hell are all the metal alloy numbers, who defines them,
>> and what book do I need to put on the bookshelf so that I can
>> understand what on earth is going on here ?  What's the best guidebook
>> for alloys that I'm likely to buy from either my metal stockist or my
>> favourite scrappie, and that I'm likely to have a use for ?
>> 
>> Snip
>>
>
>In the UK  a good book on properties of materials is
>
>	Newnes Engineering Materials Pocket Book
>by W. Bolton, Butterworth-Heinemann Ltd  ISBN 0 7506 18140
>price 12.95UKP
>
>This gives UK & US designations and material properties of
>many engineering alloys of iron, steel, aluminium, copper,
>magnesium, nickel and  titanium.
>
>It's got sections on polymeric materials and ceramics as well!
> 	 
>-- 
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>| Frank Scott  Sutton, London|
>Web site: <http.frasco.demon.co.uk>
>More than you'll want to know about my 6 legged robot
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>

Now that's a good price!  The only book I could get a line on here costs
$500.00 Canadian!
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From jambuch@lex.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:01 EST 1996
Article: 43770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: JamesBuchanan <jambuch@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Foundry Aluminum Castings Iron Contamination
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:31:16 -0500
Organization: InfiNet
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How does iron contamination show up in Aluminum castings? How can I 
easly tell if I have excessive iron contamination?
-- 
James Buchanan
Lexington, Kentucky (The Blue Grass State) USA


From rehutch@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:02 EST 1996
Article: 43771 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: Ruth <rehutch@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Make Money in Junk Metal
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:48:28 +0000
Organization: Carnegie Hill and Associates, Inc.
Lines: 30
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MAKE MONEY IN JUNK METAL 
http://www.bn1.com/carnehill/


Our Business Opportunity Kit shows you how to turn scrap metal into
immediate dollars. You will find 'insider tips' on the best ways to
collect, and how to avoid some common mistakes and pitfalls.  Almost any
metal you will find today has some value. Make sure you learn from the
best!

You want your home-based business to be stable.  Our business
opportunity kit is recession proof.

There is always a market.  When purchasing a product, buyers want to
know, “why should we buy it?” Well, here are a few reasons. Your
business is home based.  It is low risk and there is little start-up
cost.  Instructions are simple and easy to follow.  Methods are proven
and tested.  Ideas are applicable world-wide.  This is a turn-key
business opportunity, full time or part-time. And most importantly, you
see money the same day and finally, YOUR ARE YOUR OWN BOSS!

Your Business Opportunity Kit comes with three Specialty items.  You
will be receiving a 32 page pocket-size book titled, MAKE MONEY IN JUNK
METAL, an original Price-Grade Comparison Guide plus your own hi-impact
scrap magnet.

If you are ready to begin making money now, order your Business
Opportunity Kit today.

Go to: http://www.bn1.com/carnehill/


From kyoung@iptcorp.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:04 EST 1996
Article: 43772 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news4.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!iptcorp.com!kyoung
From: kyoung@iptcorp.com (Ken Young)
Subject: Al matrix composite
Message-ID: <E27tvF.BED@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 20:50:02 GMT
Lines: 9


I want to talk to someone who has experience making or using
Aluminum metal matrix composites with Silicon Carbide filler.
Actually, I would be happy talking to someone who has more
knowlege than I do.

Ken Young
kyoung@iptcorp.com



From patm@globalnet.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:12:05 EST 1996
Article: 43773 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.edu.tw!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-paris.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-feed1.globalnet.co.uk!news-feed3.globalnet.co.uk!usenet
From: patm@globalnet.co.uk (Pat Missin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Density of metals?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:22:23 GMT
Organization: 
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.misc:27349 rec.crafts.metalworking:43773 sci.engr.metallurgy:9951

Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
density of ABS plastic?

Thanks in advance,
 -- Pat Missin

patm@globalnet.co.uk



From bbeizer@gnn.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:06 EST 1996
Article: 43774 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!smash.gatech.edu!cc.gatech.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!metro.atlanta.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!bbeizer
From: bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining plastic: correction
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:22:33
Organization: Analysis
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <58mccn$dng@news-e2c.gnn.com>
References: <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210170100.MAA21231@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com>
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X-Mailer: GNNmessenger 1.3


In article <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com> Boris Beizer wrote:
>Date:	Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:36:18
>From:	bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
>Newsgroups:	rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject:	Re: machining
>
>
>>In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>>hemp4peas@aol.com writes:
>>
>>>HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
>>>machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
>>>was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
>>>greatly appreciated.
>>>hemp4peas@aol.com

>5.  The softer the plastic, the more acute the rake angles.  For 
>    soft stuff such as teflon, cutting tools are shaped almost with 
>    same rake as for woodworking.


Apologies to all for my abuse or terminology.  I meant "relief, " not "rake."
The top of the tool should be flat.  The bottom angle should be more acute
than for brass.  

I owe this correction to  "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
He say's zero (top) rake like brass and advises relief below the cutting
edge to reduce heat buildup by rubbing below the cutting edge."   

This makes sense to me and perhaps explains why I had been successful with the 
acute bottom angle.  Worked for the wrong reasons.  I will have to try it
Henry's way.  In any case, the important thing is SHARP! HONE!

Boris


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
TEL:  215-572-5580
FAX:  215-886-0144
Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From Neil-Cordwell@Netinfo.fr Tue Dec 17 14:12:07 EST 1996
Article: 43775 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!panix!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-lond.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.grolier.fr!pressimage!rain.fr!wanadoo.fr!Neil-Cordwell
From: Neil-Cordwell@Netinfo.fr (Neil Cordwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Re: SI stuff
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:29:11 +0100
Organization: SiNe Technical Services
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <19961212152911153847@yellow-dou-52.wanadoo.fr>
References: <58a9ee$5f5@roger.interlynx.net>
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X-Newsreader: MacSOUP 2.1
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:43775 alt.energy.renewable:19883 sci.energy:60142

<Kjones@interlynx.net> wrote:

> >BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
> >This is all ABACADABRA to me.
> >Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
> >
> >arie veltman
> 
> Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa
> 
> In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation
>uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F
In Europe 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation uses
SI units

Neil

 ---------------------------------oOo---------------------------------
| SiNe Technical Services    Technical Translations and Documentation |
| 100435.333@compuserve.com  http://www.SiNe-Tech.com                 |
 ---------------------------------oOo---------------------------------


From ZACZ89A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:09 EST 1996
Article: 43776 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!purdue!news.bu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.207.105.50!prodigy.com!usenet
From: ZACZ89A@prodigy.com (Mark Watzl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 7 Dec 1996 16:13:06 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 16
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58c52i$1lhc@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: innugap7-int.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

I'm in the market for a new band saw and am unsure exactly what I need.
I plan to use it to cut 1/4" angle and round mild steel and occasionally 
alum.
I've talked with a slew of salesman at local stores but I don't have any 
confidence in what they say. They all recomended a band saw that was 
designed for wood but has the ability to cut metal. I only plan to use it 
for metal. This is a hobby for me so I don't need an industrial quality 
saw nor could I afford one. I'm hoping to spend less than $450. 
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

e-mail @ zacz89a@prodigy.com or post here.

thank you

Mark



From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:10 EST 1996
Article: 43777 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!news.stealth.net!newsfeed.uk.ibm.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net!not-for-mail
From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 12 Dec 1996 16:15:29 GMT
Lines: 61
Message-ID: <58pb31$1bsu$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
References: <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <32af8f4f.0@mothra.westworld.com>
Reply-To: randyr@ibm.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip166-72-206-214.tx.us.ibm.net
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2.5

In <32af8f4f.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) writes:
>"D.Young" <jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
>>Hi there,
>
>>	I know very little about welding but I would like to learn the art.  It
>>just seems like such a useful skill.  I wouldn't mind throughing
>>together a utility trailer to start with.  What would be the best type
>>of welding setup that would be cheap and easy to operate for a beginner
>>such as myself???  Any comments or suggestions are welcomed.
>
>>Thanks, Dan
>

I've been welding now for 35 years and used an old Lincoln 180 amp AC 
welder that was made in 1957. I now use mostly a 250amp Miller mig. I've 
built literally hundreds of projects over the years. My suggestions to new
welders are to acquire the following equip (depending on their budget) in this
order.

- Lincoln 225amp welder set from Home depot, etc.

   Gas torch is more flexible but harder to master
   MIG is more forgiving to the new welder but more costly for the size of job.

- Floor metal bandsaw

   Portable power bandsaws can be useful but not as precision as the floor one.
   You'd rather not use a hacksaw

- 4 or 4 1/2" right angle grinder

   Use with assorted grind rocks, wire wheels, etc.

-  Good import drill press. - preferably 1/2" 

    
Other things to have around for your project.
  Metal square
  Chipping hammer
  BFH (big hammer)
  Soapstone
  Vise Grip welding clamps (I've had nothing but bad luck with the imports)
  
Safety

  Welding helmet and gloves
  Face shield for grinding and drilling

If you are really serious about welding after your trailer project, the next thing
to build is a welding table. They vary in size. Mine is made from a 4x8 sheet of
1/2" plate steel. Would take the world for it. Moved it down from NC to TX when
 I moved here last Feb.

  
Randy Ray
IBM / ISSC
Smart Home Architect
Utilities Industry
randyr@ibm.net



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:12 EST 1996
Article: 43778 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 20:06:09 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32A8DF20.7740@cyberhighway.net>
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To: Jim Hanrahan <hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil>

Jim Hanrahan wrote:
> 
> In article <329fd31e.882566@news.sprynet.com> ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) writes:
> 
> > It is also importantto keep a constant feed. .....
> I second the use of power feed for cut off, works great; takes some nerve.

Mike Hovda (went into T&D in 1950 when I went into electrician's
apprenticeship) told me:
1.  Razor sharp tool.
2.  On center.
3.  Power feed.
He could really make the parting tool sing...  While I about
filled my britches....  Nerve is right---.  I still stand back
a bit when I try it but when I remember what Mike said seems
like luck is with me.
-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu Tue Dec 17 14:12:13 EST 1996
Article: 43779 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rgallowa@nyx.cs.du.edu (Robert Galloway)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 11:08:03 -0700
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <58k8u3$gtl@nyx.cs.du.edu>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <32A921F1.1284@earthlink.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyx.nyx.net

You might check with refrigeration suppliers/servicemen for a used vacuum 
pump.  The pumps used to evacuate a refrigerations system reach about the 
same vacuum as laboratory pumps do.

rhg


In article <32A921F1.1284@earthlink.net>,
Jay Hayes  <xmas4lites@earthlink.net> wrote:
>John Earle wrote:
>> 
>> Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
>> project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
>> the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
>> say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
>> of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
>> sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
>> equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
>> 
>> Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would
>> work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
>> 
>> Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.
>
>John,
>
>Depending on how much open time your potting compound has(the time you
>have to mix and work with the mixture before it starts to gel), and the
>volume you need to evacuate, you will probably need a decent vacuum
>pump.
>
>I mix a lot of resins and use a (real) 1/3 HP rotary vane vacuum pump
>and 12" bell jar. I bought them from a lab supply about fifteen years
>ago and they are indespensible for processing some of the resins. It
>cost a few hundred for the set-up but it paid for it self in no time.
>
>I've used asperator type eductor vacuum generators, refrigerator
>compressor conversions and reversed air compressors. None can compare to
>the real thing. This is especially true if you are working with fast
>reactions like urethanes and or high viscosity materials like silicones.
>If you don't pull a good vacuum fast your mix may set while it is
>frothing. If your use is limited you can use a vacuum tank to help speed
>up your pull down. Used vacuum pumps are also an option.
>
>The quality of the bell jar is really important too! Mine is molded
>Lexan. I shutter to think what would happen if a glass jar imploded
>while soneone was standing next to it. For safety sake don't skimp here.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Jay




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:14 EST 1996
Article: 43780 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ready made spacers?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 17:09:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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G'day,

Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
diameter hole through them.

Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length. I
don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to machine
them to the exact same length in the lathe. 

I thought of using hardened drill bushes but the ones I have measured vary
in length by several thou. Any suggestions for an off-the-shelf item that
would work? They can be square round hex, anything as long as the length
is consistant with a 1/4" or larger hole through them. Hell the hole can
even be off-center.

Peter



From nojunkmail@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:16 EST 1996
Article: 43781 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nojunkmail@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:01:05 -0500
Organization: No Junk E-mail
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John Earle wrote:
> 
> Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
> say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
> of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
> sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
> equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
> 
> Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would
> work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...
> 
> Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.


Having done what your about to tackle, a few suggestions.

1. Put the ingredients in a container that will give you the largest
surface area you can get a vacuum on. ie: use a bowl in place of a
coffee cup if you can.
2. Only fill the container 10 to 25 % until you determine how much
outgasing you are going to get from the encapsulating material. It can
bubble up a considerable amount before the outgasing is complete. (many
times is original volume)
3. Have a valve that will allow you to relieve the vacuum quickly.
4. Make sure the material you are outgasing will not damage the vacuum
pump, you might need some sort of trap/filter or special oil for the
vacuum pump.
5. I've seen some operations that use the vacuum generated from the
suction line of an old refrigerator compressor. (cheap but effective)

Oh one last thing, when you mix the material try to avoid
whiping/beating it like you were making whip cream, try to fold the
resin and catalyst. Yea, I know it sounds a little strange but it makes
a big difference as to how much air gets entrapped in the material. 

good luck 
pht


From plalbrecht@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:17 EST 1996
Article: 43782 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: plalbrecht@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 7 Dec 1996 03:47:54 GMT
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What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.

Pete


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:18 EST 1996
Article: 43783 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: 7 Dec 1996 15:15:00 GMT
Organization: AT&T Network Wireless Systems Business Unit
Lines: 23
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <58c1lk$bl5@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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In article <32A978B0.24BA@silcom.com>, Elliot Burke  <elliot@hitide.com> wrote:
>Chuck Sherwood wrote:
>> 
>> Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>> 
>> These are my thoughts.  I think that electric is the safest. No possible
>
>> 
>Take apart an old coffee maker.  Inside is an electric heater with coils
>for water that will make low pressure steam very nicely.  If you want to
>dry the steam, use two of them.
>
>Maybe you could use the exhaust from your engine to make coffee?

Interesting idea. Would have to keep the steam oil out of the coffee though.
Or we could use castor oil and mix brandy with it to counter its affects.
(from the radial engine thread) :)

chuck sherwood
-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:19 EST 1996
Article: 43784 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:08:58 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
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In article <19961211034800.WAA09828@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
todengine@aol.com wrote:

> I am dismantling a 200 ton cross compound steam engine to move to a
> museum.  I need a 3 1/8" socket to remove six bolts that are located in a
> most inaccessible place.  Anyone have one for sale or one that I might
> borrow.
> 
> Rick Rowlands
> Tod Engine Project

I'd be willing to make you one if you can't find one.
Drop me a line if you need it.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:20 EST 1996
Article: 43785 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 23:42:18 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear fellow friend:
> 
> For the uneducated, what are Astrolabes ?
> 
> Thank You.
> 
> Alberto
> from London


Dear Alberto (and others),

I don't get it.  This is the INTERNET remember.  The INFORMATION SUPER HIGHWAY as some 
people like to call it.  I hate that name, but is does describe the place to some 
extent.

Ever heard of Yahoo, Infoseek.  Well, EDUCATE YOURSELF, and take a look.

I will give you just one site of the 972 that I found (that's right nine hundred and 
seventy two) the URL is:  http://myhouse.com/mc/planet/astrodir/astrolab.htm

I have no problem with sharing my expertise on subjects I know something about, but it 
rubs me the wrong way when people seem to be plain lazy and not willing to use the 
resources available to them.

The Internet is an incredible research tool, if only you would use it!  So get off your 
butt and use your head, and your keyboard a little.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From davide@rational.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:21 EST 1996
Article: 43786 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!130.213.1.2!rational.com!davide
From: davide@rational.com (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: looking for source for scrapers
Date: 11 Dec 1996 16:48:32 GMT
Organization: Rational Software Corporation
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Message-ID: <58mol0$2k2@rational.rational.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vortex.rational.com

I'm looking for a source for flat-ended scrapers, the kind that take
replaceable blades, preferrably carbide tipped.  I checked MSC catalog,
all they have are steel, fixed blade.  Note, these are for scraping
machinery ways, not paint or woodworking applications.



--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Erickson    Technical Support Engineer    Rational Software Corporation
email: davide@rational.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:23 EST 1996
Article: 43787 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:36 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58lnm1$iqh@fido.asd.sgi.com>, glowell@thorn.engr.sgi.com (Gary
Lowell) writes:

>A good source of information is Chris Kantarjiev's web page at
>www.dimebank.com.  Also, there was an article in a recent issues
>Home Shop Machinist or Projects in Metal about the restoration of
>a Model B lather.  Both these list sources of supply for
>used accessories that are much cheaper than SB.
>
>

Check the FAQ for Sobel who, I understand make a replacement that is much
more reasonably priced.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:24 EST 1996
Article: 43788 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What About a "Jet" Benchmill?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ae457c.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>An observation: The bench top knee mill appears to have
>rather limited space available between the spindle and
>table.  In general knee mills are good, but I might measure
>it carefully to be sure there was room for the stuff I
>wanted to take some chips off.
>
>

Good point, Fitch. The Enco catalog says *max* of 7-5/8 spindle to table.

Doesn't sound right but looks like it might be about that from the
picture.

Peter



From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:25 EST 1996
Article: 43789 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Started
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Kevin Pinkerton wrote:
> 
> On 10 Dec 1996 17:21:36 GMT, "Scott A. McGillivray"
> <smcgilli@ealge.wbm.ca> wrote:
> 
> >first question is, how big an anvil should one look at buying for sword
> >making and how much should one expect to pay for it?  The book suggested
> >between 300 and 500 lbs.  However a local smith said he never used one
> >bigger than 150 lbs (then again, he never made swords!)
> 
> The general rule of thumb IMHO is $1 a pound for a good anvil. Problem
> is good used anvils are hard to find. The cheaper anvils you will see
> advertised are all cast iron anvils and should not even be considered.
> There is a fellow who will make you an anvil and he has posted here
> recently. Use Dejanews and scan back thru the postings for anvils and
> I am sure you find him.
> 
> Kevin
> 
> Email addresses:
> kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Most reliable)
> kpinkert@erols.com (will do in a pinch)

Depends where you shop. I've been told that $1 per pound is a pretty
good number for Iowa farm country. Here in Colorado I haven't seen an
anvil go for less than $2 per pound for several years.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:27 EST 1996
Article: 43790 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-out.communique.net!demos!news.stealth.net!cdc2.cdc.net!news.texas.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ae41fb.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Well, I could be wrong, it surely wouldn't be the first time
>even today, but I thought he was cutting the snapring groove
>*inside* the tube.  If that is the case, the bullnose might
>create complications? <G>
>
>

Hey guys, let up a bit here. I got wrong, OK?

Check my response to Andy yesterday. <g>

Peter



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 14:12:28 EST 1996
Article: 43791 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Notice to ANDY POPKY
Date: 12 Dec 1996 16:36:07 GMT
Organization: bnr
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References: <19961211232800.SAA09535@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AF6D3C.5ED3@ix.netcom.com> <32b0167d.165969988@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkmc8.bnr.ca

In article <32b0167d.165969988@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, jfross@ix.netcom.com
(John Ross) wrote:
> It's like reading an advice column that says "Confidential to
> Distraught in Detroit: What you are describing is a Class A felony in
> Michigan.  Contact a criminal lawyer before talking any more about
> this with your husband."

Hey!! that was supposed to be confidential!! 8^)

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:29 EST 1996
Article: 43792 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: ANDY'S  WRONG EMAIL ADDRESS
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 13:40:26 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32AB0B9A.E1C@ix.netcom.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)

my return address on my email was screwed up for a few days

it incorrectly read tool@ix.netcom.com
instead of machtool@ix.netcom.com

so if anyone out there emailed me about 3 or 4 days ago
and got no response send it again

peter this does not apply to you<w>


regards
andy popky


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:30 EST 1996
Article: 43793 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building a Steam Boiler
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:32:25 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32ab16df.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

>Hi Everyone.

>Ive been thinking about building a boiler for my PM engine #5. (5/8 bore)
>Yes, I know this is a project that should be approched with the greatest
>concern for safetly. Any good references would be appreciated.


<Snip good boiler discussion>

I went loooking and came up with some Live steam references.
September 1991 had an electric boiler by D. E. Johnson.
there was a follow up to that, modification of it, published
in the July/August 1995 issue.

I know there was another article about a vertical electric
boiler built to act as a test boiler or for running engines
for display but I can not find it at the moment.

Possibly another person has seen it and can give an accurate
reference.

Fitch



From woofter@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:31 EST 1996
Article: 43794 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: woofter@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam Engines
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:47:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I'm looking for a newsgroup which deals exclusively with steam engines. 
My on line server says there aren't any but I find that hard to belive. 
Any help is appreciated.
Bob


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:33 EST 1996
Article: 43795 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:21:37 GMT
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Message-ID: <58hlbh$3at@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

In article <slrn5aof3h.vnf.clarke@acheron.cilia.org>,
Ed Clarke <clarke@acheron.cilia.org> wrote:
j
>>25-250 PSI". So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
>>motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A fuse!

Where are you connecting the pressure switch? Is it connected to the tank,
or is it connected to the pipe between the pump and the tank? If its the
latter, it will see BIG pressure pulses from the pump.



-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From AAFRadio@erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:34 EST 1996
Article: 43796 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:49:51 -0800
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <32AE2F5F.61A3@erols.com>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961208203914.21647A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca> <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com> <58kd2c$ea4@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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CC: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu

> Michael Hanz wrote:
> : If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump
> : sitting in the garage...the family car.
>
> YIKES!  Not only is this now illegal, but haven't you heard what happens
> when you decompose Freons by combustion?  You get HydroChloric Acid,
> HydroFluoric acid, and maybe even Phosgene!  When evacuating an A/C system,
> you always get Freon residues, at least from refrigerant dissolved in the
> oil!
> From your address, I think I live far enough away to be safe, but I'm
> worried for your neighbors.
> Jon

That's a fair comment, and one should always be thoughtful about the systems one
evacuates.  It does highlight the problem of being brief and offering help as opposed
to two pages of qualifiers, however.  You will note that I did not advocate it - just
reflected experience with it.  To bring some balance to the issue, one would always use
a vacuum pump to evacuate a fully loaded system when it needs a compressor replacement
or the like and the refrigerant needs to be recycled.  You would obviously not use the
automotive method there.  Since Jon wasn't aware, I'll only comment that all my
applications were with systems that had been totally open to the air before
evacuation...folks brought them to me because they didn't know what to do next.  The
last time I used it for an A/C system was about five years ago, so I think I'm safe from
a legal standpoint.  BTW, I'm not totally ignorant of the byproducts of combustion, so I
always did it on a breezy day out near the barn.  Today I did warn my neighbor a couple
of miles down the road he should start looking for signs of ill health.  He said he
would, just as soon as he got home from his 2 hour commute through the smog alert.  The
cows HAVE been acting strangely lately, come to think of it...but it might be the
X-Files they like to watch on Sunday night.

But the comment is a good one, and I support it - every situation needs some thought,
and next time I suggest an idea to the NG I'll properly caveat all the things one should
NOT do with it.

Regards,
Michael Hanz




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:35 EST 1996
Article: 43797 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 19:35:56 GMT
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plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:
: What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
: locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.

I paid (on the high end) $1000 for a shaper with tooling and a table,
but it seems to be in excellent shape.  I've seen some prices elsewhere
(like in Michigan) where they go down to $300.  Mine was in California
and I got mine from a used-tool seller.

Lovely machine.  I'll use mine as often as I can.

Pete Brooks



From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:36 EST 1996
Article: 43798 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is aircraft aluminum
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 96 12:33:19 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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Maybe Boeing should advertise their aircraft as being made from
flashlight aluminum and bicycle titanium.

Maybe not.


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:12:37 EST 1996
Article: 43799 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:36:14 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32AEE2F9.88B@voyager.net>
References: <32af53be.1931636@news.sprynet.com> <19961210150000.KAA18102@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe71a$aa660800$4c263ece@radix.wwnet.com>
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To: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>

w.j.ward wrote:> 
> I'd like one too.  But, as other posts in this thread indicate, they're
> hard to find.

I see your in Michigan. I am not sure where Redford Twp. is but I live
in Lansing and there is a 7" South Bend shaper in the paper here for
$500 and it includes the vise, tool holder and all guards. I would buy
it myself but I already have a 7" Atlas so if your really looking to buy
one...

Brian Perry


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:38 EST 1996
Article: 43800 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
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Thanks for all the replies. I got some replies email only, so I figured
I figured I should summarize.

Methods for holding work to the milling table allowing cutting the
entire top surface:

-Special toe clamps (clamping force sideways and down) on edge of work.

-Attach a base plate, giving you ears to clamp on. Attachment methods
mentioned included welding (heat distortion?), glue, wax, solder and
screws.

A couple of tricks were also mentioned using vises.

Thanks!

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:39 EST 1996
Article: 43801 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 11 Dec 1996 13:27:20 GMT
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To: steve_smith@cc.com

I'm no expert on magnetic chucks, but after having had an end mill
walk a steel bar out from under some clamps that were tight, but
not quite tight enough, I seriously doubt that a magnetic chuck 
could hold a part against the forces of milling.  

There are special side-biting clamps available; look in the
MSC or Travers catalog.  The suggestion in the previous response,
of attaching the work to a baseplate with screws from the back, 
then clamping down the baseplate, is also good.




From mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov Tue Dec 17 14:12:41 EST 1996
Article: 43802 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 16:35:36 GMT
Organization: ANL
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Message-ID: <01bbe781$f6be88a0$244c8b92@mikehenr>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Please pardon the ignorance, but what does one use a shaper for?  It sounds
like something I'd like to have <g>.

Peter Brooks <brooksp@corp.hp.com> wrote in article
<58hpms$bpn@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>...
> plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:
> : What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
> : locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.
> 




From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:42 EST 1996
Article: 43803 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Free Technical Library
Date: 6 Dec 1996 13:34:55 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <58873i$im@juliana.sprynet.com> mark@mortonmachinery.com writes: 
>
>I've seen some postings on technical reading.  There is a HUGE library
(above 50,000
>volumes) in Silver Spring, Maryland belonging to MDNA (Machinery
Dealers National
>Association). All you need is to find your local MDNA member who is a
friendly dealer,
>and ask him to do you a favor and request a certain manual.  They'll
mail it directly to 
>him and you can borrow it (although he's still responsible for it!).  
>
<snip>

 I am trying to picture the likely response that someone off the street
would get from a machinery dealer on this one. Let's see, you walk into
a machinery dealer and say: "Hi, I just bought a lathe at a garage
sale. Can you get me the catalog on loan from MDNA for a while? I
promise I'll return it."
 I suspect that you might get told to politely keep looking at garage
sales until you find the manual.
 I can think of a few dealers that might do such a favor for me. That's
because I spend thousands of dollars per year buying stuff from them
and can be considered a valued customer.
 Dave "who always buys gas before using the station's bathroom" Ficken
 Meridian Machinery
 http://hre.com/meridian


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:43 EST 1996
Article: 43804 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: The future is bright on rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 6 Dec 1996 13:58:41 GMT
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Dear MarK Rogo:
Dear Forum members:

I have noted your comments with interest, I have both
CIS and AOL accounts, neither of which gives me the
bandwidth of qualified engineers, as those assembled
around rec.crafts.metalworking.

Having used the on-line media for a very long time, I have
concluded that even unregulated Forums like this one
will regulate themselves, by a mechanism I still have to
fully understand.

On the end of the day, its the quality of the Forum which
matters, and we are on the right track. This is not to say
that your observations are wrong, we just happen to
have a different angle of observation and personal
experience.


Let me also express my thanks to the boys in the IT engine
room, for keeping this show on the road.


Alberto


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:45 EST 1996
Article: 43805 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I appologize to *ALL* machinery dealers
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:15:52 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b004b1.1546015@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
Logan) writes:

>>Hey Scott, shOuldN't thIs be In 
>>
>>alt.crafts.metalworking.sycophants
>
>Boy, am I sorry I mentioned this!  I enjoy Andy's posts, and hope he
>will continue.
>
>>Peter
>>Who can unequivocally endorse Dave Ficken as a dealer to trust. Hands up
>>all those MDNA dealers???
>
>According to the 1997 MDNA Buyers Guide, Marshall Machinery (Andy
>Popky's outfit) IS an MDNA member.  In fact, he is the only dealer I
>can recall hearing mentioned in this group, who I can find in the
>directory.  I MAY BE WRONG, AND WILL GLADLY LOOK UP ANY DEALER YOU
>CARE TO MENTION.  I do NOT wish to cast aspersions on anyone.  Many of
>the dealers I would recommend are not MDNA members.
>

Geez, Scott, lighten up. *I was ribbing Andy* we do it all the time via
e-mail and I just took this opportunity to take another swipe at him.

Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*
Andy, *I didn't mean anything by it*

Better Scott?????????

May I be so bold to suggest you don't take everything so damn seriously.

What do you do for fun? Tear wings off flies? (That was a *joke* Scott!)

Peter
Who also has the MDNA guide book and can look them up for himself!
Sheeesh!



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:46 EST 1996
Article: 43806 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Do you know these machines?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:15:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 29
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In article <58h30b$28m@dfw-ixnews11.ix.netcom.com>,
mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken) writes:

>machinery, you should plan on attending several. You will be in a bad
>position if you have the attitude that you must buy a particular item
>that day. Set your price well in advance, and walk away if the price
>goes beyond that. There will always be another auction around the
>corner.

That is the single most important item to keep at the front of our brain
when at ana auction. Please remember Dave's words.


> As a machinery dealer, I would be remiss if I didn't try to explain
>why you might want to consider buying from a dealer. You may pay more
>than the auction price, but you will be able to inspect under power.
>You will be able to return the machine if something is wrong. You will
>be able to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about the machinery.
>Most importantly, you can still get answers and help months later.

I have zero argument with this advice. Having bought probably a hundred
machines for business and hobby over the last 20 years, I can attest to
the importance of paying the dealer a margin. Go haggle with them by all
means but auctions are auctions. You see it, you buy it, you own it.

Peter





From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:48 EST 1996
Article: 43807 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:08 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 17
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In article <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net>, hook@usit.net writes:

>heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
>any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
>ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
>all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
>come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
>forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net
>
>

Some days it just aint fun to read this NG.

Double groan...

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:49 EST 1996
Article: 43808 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ac1052.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Apple didn't recognize the Intel machines as serious
>competition for their better idea.  That is in short the
>story of Apples reduction to a vestigial presence in the
>desktop computer market.  I will be surprised if they stay
>at all with out making such big changes you won't recognize
>them as "Apple" anymore.
>
>It is a perfect example of a company that believed they had
>a better mousetrap ... so good it was immune to competition.
>It wasn't.
>
>

Keep your eye on Sun (Microstation fame) eating apples in the near future.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:50 EST 1996
Article: 43809 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:12 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58g7dq$la8@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Cecil Bearden
<PLYMOUTH-DOCTOR@worldnet.att.net> writes:

>Has anyone here had trouble connecting with AOL  ????  I ahve tried to 
>connect with them for 2 days and cannot.  I am using the Oklahoma City 
>Connection.    
>
>

Nope, haven't even had a busy signal as forewarned after they went to
unlimited time.

Peter



From ginsberg@netport.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:52 EST 1996
Article: 43810 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ginsberg Family (Ed Ginsberg KE6BNL)" <ginsberg@netport.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:34:00 -0800
Organization: "Netport Internet Access (805) 538-2860"
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <32AC93D8.311D@netport.com>
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Don Buchan wrote:
> 
> On 6 Dec 1996, John Earle wrote:
> 
> > Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> > project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> > the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
> > say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
> > of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
> > sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
> > equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?
> 
> I like the word Cheap and OBO after the price.:)
> A bell jar and a vacumm sounds like the process you need. When the vacumm
> is released the change causes all the bubbles to collapse.
> I use a gast vacumm pump my brother in law got me of a brewery machine
> and a pressure cooker I bought at a auction sale for $3.00. I use it to
> find out how much gas is in my molten alumuinum before I cast. It creates
> about 25 Hg is short order and that should also be lots for what your doing.
> Hope this helps. Try surplus for vacumm pumps.
> 
> DonI used a ball jar that I silver soldiered a fiiting to the top of and 
would pull a vacumm marinated meat to help the liquid permeate the meat. 
These pumps can be found often at surplus stores.  If you happen by a ari 
conditioning vacumm they are far better if the price is right.  Ed 
Ginsberg  KE6BNL
-- 
1¾


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:53 EST 1996
Article: 43811 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical min
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 00:18:20 -0800
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jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) wrote:

>Actual striking force (not pressure) depends largely on how compressible
>the striking masses are.  If I drop an incompressible object onto another
>incompressible object (this needs to include the planet it's attached to)
>the actual striking fource would be infinite.  The obvious flaw here is that
>nothing is incompressible.

Thank you  .... this is exactly what I thought but I wasn't going to
say anything on the possibility of making a fool out of myself. When
nobody else mentioned this action/reaction business, I thought 'well,
what do I know' ... .guess I still know a few things..

Jens


From jhaapala@walli.uwasa.fi Tue Dec 17 14:12:54 EST 1996
Article: 43812 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jhaapala@walli.uwasa.fi (Juha Haapala)
Newsgroups: alt.industrial,sci.engr.manufacturing,sci.engr.heat-vent-ac,misc.industry.pulp-and-paper,rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.manufacturing.misc
Subject: Introducing site: T-DRILL tube and pipe fabrication machines: cutting, branching, endforming (spinning & flanging)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:21:36 GMT
Organization: T-DRILL
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Dear reader,

Introducing T-DRILL Web-site. Feel free to visit there and get the
latest information on our products. We are manufacturing machines for:

- tube cut-off (Chipless rotary cutting method)
- tube endforming (spinning and flanging)
- tube branching (reliable tube joints)

The URL is: http://www.iki.fi/td/

Best regards,
juha haapala



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:55 EST 1996
Article: 43813 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ae454d.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>To face to final length, use a block (precision parallel
>works well) across the chuck to locate the first one in the
>chuck (after tightening the chuck on the work, remove the
>parallel!), position and lock the carriage, tighten the gibs
>on the compound, use a carbide insert tool (to get
>repeatability if the bit gets dull or somehow damaged) and
>then face them off one at a time.  Leave everything alone
>between pieces.  Stop the lathe,  loosen the chuck to slide
>the work back from the cutter, backup the cross feed, remove
>the work, and chuck the next one using the exact same
>locating block (parallel).  
>
>Should be good to .001 repeatability in length.  If you work
>carefully, you can probably get them to 1" plus or minus
>0005.  
>
>

Yeah, that's where I started Fitch, I managed about 0.0015 but it was
enough to load the lead screw slightly. That 0.0015 at the bolt circle
diameter of 4-1/4 (I think without going an measuring) translated into a
significant angular displacement. May have to pay the money for those
couplings yet.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:56 EST 1996
Article: 43814 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bolt hole software I posted. Ooops!
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AE0F24.2BD0@li.net>, Fabo <fabian@li.net> writes:

>Sorry I came in on the tail end of this thread, 
>Is someone lookig for Bolt Hole Software ?
>Not a prob, Send me an outline of what it is you are looking for it to 
>do, ( aside from figureing out bolt circles).
>And Ill whip one uop in no time.
>F

Thanks for the offer Fabo, but I have already whipped one up. If anyone
wants a Windows Freeware version then e-mail and I can atttach a copy to
the reply.

Peter
pnpnolan@aol.com



From dide@dgsys.com Tue Dec 17 14:12:58 EST 1996
Article: 43815 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: 11 Dec 1996 11:41:46 GMT
Organization: Digital Gateway Systems
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References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32A250A7.15D6@interport.net> <32A66246.2198@interport.net> <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk>
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Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
: blast gyro (from a Bloodhound SAM, AFAIK) with a brass rotor about a
   
     Where did you get it? I want one.
     David Ide
     


From mjp@roe.ac.uk Tue Dec 17 14:13:00 EST 1996
Article: 43816 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Magnus Paterson <mjp@roe.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Quilts Handmade in Hawaii
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 14:08:24 +0000
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Brent Beal wrote:
> 
> NEKOEYES <NEKOEYES@aol.com> wrote:
> 
> >Beautiful Patchwork Quilts handmande with Aloha in Hawaii.
> 
> >From "Doll" size to Bed Size
> 
> >100% Cotton fabrics used
> 
> >Unique & Beautiful fabrics used
> 
> >E-Mail for details.
> 
> are they handcarved---hehehe

Oddly enough, YES.  Well, not really, but a few visits ago, I bought
my wife a trinket box made from koa (acacia) wood, which was carved
with traditional Hawai`ian quilting patterns. Yeah, lookat me,
I got LOTS of brownie points!

Incidentally, I lurk on this NG for quilting info for my significant
other; I prefer bobbin lace-making.  Really.  Honest; Torchon just
now, but trying to learn Beds/Maltese.  I also drink beer,
watch football (soccer) and listen to Steve Vai CDs.  Maybe I'm
confused.

-- 

Cheers,
Magnus

****  Magnus J Paterson           email  mjp@roe.ac.uk   
****  Royal Observatory           ph     +44 (0)131 668 8247
****  Edinburgh EH9 3HJ           fax    +44 (0)131 668 1130
****  SCOTLAND                    web    http://www.roe.ac.uk/mjpwww/


From grisher@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:01 EST 1996
Article: 43817 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: grisher@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mg Welding
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:20:45 GMT
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Depends....If you don't know the alloy, try 4043 aluminum first. As I
recall, the aircooled VW engines are high in magnesium and silicon. If the
castings are used, I tend to think your biggest problem will be dross
(junk and crap and goo and garbage in the weld). Preheating to cook it out
helps, or welding and chipping the weld out helps. Do it again till you
get a clean weld. I wouldn't worry much about porosity if it occurs. I've
done some flanges on VW cases.

Distortion can be a problem. It depends on what and where you're welding
on the casting. Preheat can help this also. 

Call Alcotech. These folks make lots of different rods and will help you
pick an alloy. You can e-mail me at grisher@aol.com


From steamer@west.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:02 EST 1996
Article: 43818 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam turbines
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:41:20 -0800
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	--Steam turbines *are* lotsa fun: they make nice noises and they 
aren't all that hard to build once you get the hang of it, BUT. The "but" 
is that they aren't as efficient as steam reciprocating engines, until 
they get upwards of (I think) 25 HP or thereabouts. Below that value they 
are extreme steam hogs. For experimenting purposes, make sure that you 
have a steam feed pump hooked up to put water back in your boiler. My 
friends Roger McGuire and Todd Guldenbrein have a rotary-vane vacuum pump 
hooked up to a 6HP Scotch boiler, up in Vallejo, CA and when they turn on 
the steam, the pump makes a dandy noise and rotates at a fair clip (but 
nothing to write home about). You can see the water level declining, tho, 
and it makes you wonder...
	--I run little experimental 3/8" thick, 2" diameter modified deLaval 
turbines using the Coles Power Models 5" dia. VFT boiler, altho any large 
"model" boiler would probably do, again so long as there  is a steam feed 
pump in the system... 
	--More info. on my experiments with steam turbines will appear on 
my "cob-web" -page sometime early next year (no, really!)
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Duravi, ergo	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	Impavidus Sum
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:13:03 EST 1996
Article: 43819 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:53:36 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1212961053360001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <01bbe39b$1ae56d60$65ec93cf@robertmu> <32A88400.15B3@cc.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <32A88400.15B3@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
wrote:

> Robert wrote:
> > 
> > What kind of regulator do I need to do cutting with propane in stead of
> > acetlene?
> 
> I've successfully used an acetylene regulator, but I'm no expert. You
> can also get cheaper regulators specifically made for propane.
> 

An acetylene regulator will work just fine. What you will need is a
cutting tip specifically designed for cutting with propane fuel gas. The
arrangement of the preheat ports is altered as is the size. The design is
different to accomodate the difference in heating value in the fuel gas.
BTW cutting with propane leaves a cleaner edge with less slag and is
commonly done in industry.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:05 EST 1996
Article: 43820 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: 12 Dec 1996 21:56:45 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <58pv2t$scp@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210170100.MAA21231@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com>
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Boris Beizer (bbeizer@gnn.com) wrote:


: Here's the short course:
[concise list of plastics do's and don't's deleted]

Wow!  Now, posts like this make it worth sorting past the American vs
Foreign machine posts, not to mention the odd (very odd) True Believers.....

Thanks!

Pete Brooks




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:06 EST 1996
Article: 43821 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Objective review of the Grizzly G4000 9" x 19" Lathe
Date: 9 Dec 1996 03:00:18 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <19961209030000.WAA29308@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32AAD87E.6DBE@concentric.net>
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In article <32AAD87E.6DBE@concentric.net>, "Bryan A. Whitfield"
<bryanwh@concentric.net> writes:

>If you have personal experience with this lathe or the supplier and 
>would like to share it, please respond. Lets keep personal biases not 
>based on actual experience with the G4000 or Grizzly out of the 
>discussion if possible.  
>
>

My advice would to be to regard one of these things as work in progress. I
have bought excellent stuff from Grizzly and I have bought stuff that need
work.

The dividing head I got from them need a complete dismantle to modify the
locking mechanism as it would not allow the head past 45 degrees. The
index pin for the quick index plate needed lengthening as the holes in the
index plate had varying countersinks. This pin would not lock tight into
some holes and I had to turn up a new pin slightly longer with a tighter
taper.

Based on this experience with the poor QC on a the dividing head, I would
suggest that Grizzly probably has little better quality control in their
lathes than does Jet. Buy on price and expect to do some cleaning up, or
buy a good used Hardinge (6 times the price) and never worry.

My Jet, the one reviewed in HSM that caused the original consternation
with off-shore versus on-shore is now a very competent and useful lathe. I
spent about 30 hours on it. I would have preferred not to, but I needed to
make parts and at the time I could not find used stuff for love or money.
Well in my price range then, anyway.

Peter



From mac@adra.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:08 EST 1996
Article: 43822 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:01:15 -0600
From: mac@adra.com
Subject: Metal Web News
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850337452.1509@dejanews.com>
Reply-To: mac@adra.com
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
X-Article-Creation-Date: Wed Dec 11 20:53:23 1996 GMT
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Has the address for Metal Web News changed?

Every time I try to go there I get tranfer interrupted.
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From ka0osk@creighton.edu Tue Dec 17 14:13:09 EST 1996
Article: 43823 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ka0osk@creighton.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:30:36 GMT
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From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Dec 17 14:13:10 EST 1996
Article: 43824 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Message-ID: <1996Dec11.142919.25824@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 11 Dec 96 14:29:18 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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|>In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
|>hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:
|>
|>> HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
|>> machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
|>> was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
|>> greatly appreciated.


You might check out the metalworking FAQ,
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal

In the FAQ, question 42 deals with machining some types of plastics such as:

        Nylon 101 and other type 6/6 Nylons
        Monocast (r) and other type 6 nylons
        Nylatron (r) GS,GSM,NSB,and NSM Nylons
        Acetal
        Delrin
        Delrin AF (Tm dupont)
        Q200.5 (Crosslinked Polystyrene)

As you might guess, procedures will depend on the plastic, the type
of machining operations, and the pre- and post-treatment of the plastic.

Jim


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:12 EST 1996
Article: 43825 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: 11 Dec 1996 22:11:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <19961211221100.RAA07278@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>, Les Bartel <"(email me at)
lbartel"@veribest.com> writes:

>Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
>inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
>bits are sized in fractions of an inch.
>
>

Why not buy sets of number and letter drills for giving the best thread
engagement?

Peter



From mku278@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 14:13:13 EST 1996
Article: 43826 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Don Buchan <mku278@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 20:48:17 -0600
Organization: Blue Sky Community Networks of Manitoba Inc.
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On 6 Dec 1996, John Earle wrote:

> Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
> project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
> the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
> say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
> of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
> sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
> equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?

I like the word Cheap and OBO after the price.:)
A bell jar and a vacumm sounds like the process you need. When the vacumm 
is released the change causes all the bubbles to collapse. 
I use a gast vacumm pump my brother in law got me of a brewery machine 
and a pressure cooker I bought at a auction sale for $3.00. I use it to 
find out how much gas is in my molten alumuinum before I cast. It creates 
about 25 Hg is short order and that should also be lots for what your doing.
Hope this helps. Try surplus for vacumm pumps.

Don 


From crostown@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:14 EST 1996
Article: 43827 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: crostown@concentric.net (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 12:04:11 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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In article <kmdtUsa00iV90HHtJY@andrew.cmu.edu>,
   Nathan J Nagel <gearhead+@andrew.cmu.edu> wrote:
>Excerpts from netnews.rec.autos.tech: 4-Dec-96 Re: Hole in the wheel is
>to.. by "J. Dunn" <"DunnIn@bc.sy 
>>  
>> You guys are all wrong about the centre hole in the wheel.Have you not 
>> noticed that its the perfect size to hold your beer when your doing 
>> your brakes.
>
>So what do you do if you have a five-bolt Bug?
>
>nate 

You need to get a really big can of beer!


From rabadie@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:15 EST 1996
Article: 43828 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: "Ray F. Abadie" <rabadie@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: NEED: Photocopy HSM article Mar/Apr 1990
Date: 9 Dec 1996 04:24:33 GMT
Organization: Technology Assistance Group
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Need a copy of the article Convert your Mill-drill to CNC (Part 1) by
Roland Friestad to compare notes with conversion underway. Will pay
duplication cost and shipping.

Thank you!!!

Ray Abadie
rabadie@bellsouth.net



From abraden@netusa1.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:17 EST 1996
Article: 43829 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: art braden <abraden@netusa1.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:34:13 -0800
Organization: NetUSA1 Inc.	
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32AF6115.302B@netusa1.net>
References: <19961209184600.NAA18982@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210020201.VAA01177@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AE286F.719C@spec.net>
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tony wrote:
> 
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In article <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com>, "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
> > writes:
> >
> > >I don't know enough about clamping from the sides (mechanically). This
> > >sounds like an easy solution, but how do you keep the work flat to the
> > >table, and not riding up on the clamps? Does tapping it down as you
> > >tighten work well, particularly with larger areas?
> > >
> 
> MSC is advertising a clamping device that grabs the work from the sides
> and leaves the top clear. Look in their big book in the workholding area.

The is an construction article on a holder of this type in the December 1996 
issue of Projects in Metal. It is by John Cooper on page 20.

Art


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 14:13:18 EST 1996
Article: 43830 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Web News
Date: 11 Dec 1996 22:34:26 GMT
Organization: bnr
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In article <850337452.1509@dejanews.com>, mac@adra.com wrote:

> Has the address for Metal Web News changed?
> 
> Every time I try to go there I get tranfer interrupted.
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet

If it changed you'd get an error message that stated it couldn't find it.
Transfer interupted means some server between you and the site is giving
you grief and likely timing out/dropping the link. Try at a slower time.

Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:19 EST 1996
Article: 43831 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!ssbunews.ih.lucent.com!not-for-mail
From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Boiler Making Update
Date: 11 Dec 1996 21:10:43 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies -- Bell Labs Innovations
Lines: 33
Distribution: usa
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Reply-To: casherwood@lucent.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

Hi Everyone.
Here is an update on the boiler making post I made a while back.

I managed to find these books from Coles:
"Model Boilermaking, Design, Making, Test" by Pearce	$11.00
"Steam Boilers and Steam Engines"  by Arnold		$10.00


And these two from Village Press:
"Live Steam"  September 1991 had an electric boiler by D. E. Johnson.
"Live Steam" July/August 1995 issue.  follow up and modification to Sept 91.

Also Steam and Stirling Book Two has a two articles on boilers.

Suggested books from Tee  (http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/tee/index.html)
I did not pursue any of these because their web site only lists newly
published and unusual books.  I did not want to make an internation call
to get prices and availability since I already ordered some of the
above references.

"Model Boilers and Boilermaking" (by Harris ?), Argus?). 

Model Boiler Making - Pearce - ISBN 0 905100 13 1

Model Boilers - M Evans - ISBN 0 85242 923 1

Thanks for the help everyone!


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From saustin@northnet.org Tue Dec 17 14:13:20 EST 1996
Article: 43832 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!EU.net!usenet2.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!usenet1.news.uk.psi.net!uknet!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!ppp-6.gouverneur.northnet.org!not-for-mail
From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:11:59 -0500
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32B0AD5F.2C98744D@northnet.org>
References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58j01r$1t8@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32ADB33E.6510@scruznet.com>
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Lee Marshall wrote:
> 
> Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> >
> > pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> > : G'day,
> >
> > : Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
> > : NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
> > : diameter hole through them.
> >
> > : Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length. I
> > : don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to machine
> > : them to the exact same length in the lathe.
> >
Got a surface plate and height gage?  How about a lapping plate?
Once the pieces are machined to length you can work the ends on a
piece of sandpaper laid on some flat surface.  By checking on the
surface plate you should be able to get them within a few tenths.
The lapping plate should finish them as close as you can measure.
Steve A.


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:21 EST 1996
Article: 43833 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rec.crafts.metalworking -  opens up new horizons
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:03:39 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:

>Dear Fellow Metalworkers :

>We have this morning received a fax order from a company in Canada,
>which has seen our postings on rec.crafts.metalworking, this company
>has ordered 75 Art Deco style lamps from our current range of products.

>Thanks to guys in the IT engine room of rec.craft.metalworking;  keep
>your server running and make as all happy, Christmas is nearing.


>Alberto from London.

I think it would be a nice gesture to send all of us a "fresh turkey"
for our Christmas table since, after all, we facilitated your sale :))

Happy Holidays!

Jim Waggener




From rbarch@tristate.pgh.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:22 EST 1996
Article: 43834 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbarch@tristate.pgh.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking For A Reuseable Mold Material !
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:11:03 -0500
Organization: Pittsburgh OnLine, Inc.
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I am doing a lot of casting of plastic parts about 6" to 12" in
length.  These parts can withstand high temperatures so a mold material
that has to be melted
down and poured with hot would be fine.
   Does anyone have any ideas as to a mold material (that is reuseable)
what I 
can try?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Please email me
directly.
Thank you,
Robert


From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:24 EST 1996
Article: 43835 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 22:19:08 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
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>> 
>> NeilUnless you are dealing with some off the wall carb, Aluminum is what 
>you'll find to be the composition of your basic carburetors. Tig, Epoxy 
>etc. will all work just fine.

I once had to do a simalar fix on a Mikuni (sp) Carb. I though it was
Aluminum, and tried to use one of those Alumi Rods (the ones that use
a propane torch) I as soon as the torch touched the carb it melted ...

It was a thin section , but the propane torch wasnt even on it 5
seconds. I dont think I could melt aluminum with a propane torch that
quick. 

Now this was from a motorcycle. I dont know if that makes much
difference.


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:26 EST 1996
Article: 43836 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:00:53 GMT
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Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
chucks, tooling?

Jim Waggener



From schrisma@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:27 EST 1996
Article: 43837 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Sally <schrisma@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!! Spammer Turned In
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:12:50 -0800
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <32AF5C12.2524@ix.netcom.com>
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X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01E-NC250  (Win95; U; 16bit)
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:39841 rec.collecting.dolls:30484 rec.collecting.ornaments:59 rec.collecting.paper-money:3172 rec.collecting.phonecards:8691 rec.collecting.postal-history:2330 rec.collecting.sport:105 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:194910 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:113761 rec.collecting.sport.football:143637 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:104510 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14252 rec.collecting.stamps:41251 rec.collecting.villages:5757 rec.crafts:107 rec.crafts.beads:11848 rec.crafts.brewing:110592 rec.crafts.carving:1055 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3167 rec.crafts.glass:4225 rec.crafts.jewelry:16213 rec.crafts.marketplace:10909 rec.crafts.metalworking:43837 rec.crafts.misc:27373 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11608 rec.crafts.pottery:3313 rec.crafts.quilting:125 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2213 rec.crafts.textiles:133 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1070 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5446 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:96033 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:34136

For your info, I reported the Salvation Spammer.  His/her server is
taking action.  See below:

Tom Jackiewicz wrote:
>
> We are taking care of this user right now. We do not appreciate spam
> coming from our servers and do whatever we can to stop it. Thank you
> for your email.
>
> On Sun, 8 Dec 1996, Sally wrote:
>
> > This has been "spammed" on several newsgroups.
> >
> > Please take action!
> >
>
> --
>
>   Tom Jackiewicz                System Admin/Programmer
>   invalid@goodnet.com           GoodNet, http://www.goodnet.com


Sally



Subject: 
        Re: [Fwd: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!] 
   Date: 
        Mon, 9 Dec 1996 09:48:18 -0700 (MST) 
  From: 
        Tom Jackiewicz <root@sideburns.upt.org>
     To: 
        Sally <schrisma@ix.netcom.com>




We are taking care of this user right now. We do not appreciate spam
coming from our servers and do whatever we can to stop it. Thank you
for your email.

On Sun, 8 Dec 1996, Sally wrote:

> This has been "spammed" on several newsgroups.
>
> Please take action!
>

--

  Tom Jackiewicz                System Admin/Programmer
  invalid@goodnet.com           GoodNet, http://www.goodnet.com


From glennd@bdc.cirrus.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:28 EST 1996
Article: 43838 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glenn Day <glennd@bdc.cirrus.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wonderful, but expensive, tool for newbies!
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:01:11 -0800
Organization: Cirrus Logic
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32A83537.19FE@bdc.cirrus.com>
References: <581fqm$dtm@alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu> <19961204001500.TAA17837@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbe24e.3a1b1340$24c3b5cf@pyroware.flash.net> <587ll4$qop@news-central.tiac.net>
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Doug White wrote:
> 

> 
> As a relative neophyte, I'd LOVE to have a coax indicator.  I can't
> justify the expense of one of the US made Blakes, and have always wonder
<snip>
> 
> Doug White

As far as the coxial indicator goes one possibility is to make one. 
There have been articles in HSM and there are plans in one of the
Bedside Reader series also.
Glenn


From hps@shore.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:29 EST 1996
Article: 43839 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 13 Dec 1996 01:08:49 GMT
Organization: Henry's Machine Shop
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <58qab1$p2l@fridge-nf0.shore.net>
References: <32AC5B23.15F1@cc.com> <19961211062400.BAA13821@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AEE3E0.35B4@cc.com>
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To: steve_smith@cc.com

Steve;  
Just how big a piece are we talking about here? what is it made 
of and how thick is it?  

Henry



From EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU Tue Dec 17 14:13:30 EST 1996
Article: 43840 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Eastes <EASTES@UANSV3.VANDERBILT.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a source for 'T-Slots' for welding fixture
Date: 11 Dec 1996 22:20:05 GMT
Organization: Vanderbilt University, Nashville, TN, USA
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To: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu

ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu (DEMPSEY) wrote:
>Hello...
>	I'm building an adjustable welding fixture, and am looking for some
>(preferrably steel) T-slots to recess into the fixture and provide hold down
>points for my work holders.  I've seen versions in aluminum in many woodworking
>jigs, but cannot even find a source for these extrusions.
>	Any hints or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
>Thank you in advance,
>	-Brian

Brian,

Most mail-order woodworking catalogs now carry the aluminum T-slots. 
Since you're in Atlanta, call Highland Hardware, sorry no # I'm at work. 
They do a large mail-order business and also have a real nice walk-in 
store for the locals.

Ron



From r.bickers@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:32 EST 1996
Article: 43841 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 11 Dec 1996 23:49:57 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:
>I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
>that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
>couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than the
>compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor with
>silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
>much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.

Do not paint it silver, flat black if you must which won't be a lot different
than what you have. What make of compressor is it? Maybe yours isn't a model meant for 
continuous duty. Check the temp rise on the 
motor label, it should say what the normal rise is, I have motors that run at 
90 degrees C. Cheers Bob



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:34 EST 1996
Article: 43842 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
Date: 11 Dec 1996 23:28:46 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <19961211232800.SAA09535@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

Boing
Corning
Duke Power
Fairchild
Ford
General Motors
IBM
Hewlett Packard
General Electric
Martin
MC Donnel Douglas
Minster
Motorola
National Semiconductors
Perkin & Elmer
Pratt & Whitney
Westinghouse


From jburnett@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil Tue Dec 17 14:13:35 EST 1996
Article: 43843 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!wrdiss1.robins.af.mil!usenet
From: Joseph Burnett <jburnett@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 14:15:42 -0500
Organization: WR-ALC/TIECT
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32AF085E.6B08@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil>
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James L. Kehoe III D.O. wrote:
(snip)
> I have an ENCO catalog and one of their lathes look good, spec. wise.
> This is the model 110-1352 which is on sale now at 20% off catalog
> price.
> 
> Anyone have any information on these lathes?  Must purchase within the
> week to get the pricing..  

Don't be rushed into a decision to buy/not to buy the ENCO machine based
on expiration of their sale prices.  In my experience, these machines are
virtually always "on sale."  Would hate to see you rush out and buy a 
machine only to wish later you had purchased something else.  Sorry I can't
give you any info on the machine, except to say that we recently went through
the same drill, looked at MSC 12x40 and ended up buying a nice, used 10L
South Bend, 36cc., largely through the help and advise from the good folks
on this newsgroup.  Good luck.

====================================================================

Joseph L. Burnett
jburnett@wrdiss1.robins.af.mil


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:36 EST 1996
Article: 43844 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: Metal Web News
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Message-ID: <32AF4878.5F42@cc.com>
Sender: news@nsc.nsc.com (netnews maintenance)
Nntp-Posting-Host: goanna.cc.com
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Organization: Comlinear
References: <850337452.1509@dejanews.com>
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 23:49:12 GMT
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Lines: 14

mac@adra.com wrote:
> 
> Has the address for Metal Web News changed?
> 
> Every time I try to go there I get tranfer interrupted.
> -------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
>       http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet

Try clearing your cache. On netscape, push the Options button, followed
by the Network Preferences sub-button, and you should have a Cache tab. 

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From bfox@ladc.lockheed.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:37 EST 1996
Article: 43845 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.direct.ca!nntp.portal.ca!van-bc!n1van.istar!van.istar!west.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!tor.istar!east.istar!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!butch!news
From: Bruce Cana Fox <bfox@ladc.lockheed.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: drilling 1" holes.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 07:25:15 -0800
Organization: Lockheed Martin Skunk Works
Lines: 23
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> >> >In article <56imqt$lir@nw101.infi.net>,
> >> >Jim Waggener <creativ@norfolk.infi.net> wrote:
> >> >>question: is there a bit I can buy for my drill press that will
> >> cut a
> >> >>1" hole in thin 24-28 gauge brass sheet?  I can't seem to locate
> >> >>anything that does a clean, smooth job.
> >>I have used a Silver and Deming drill ground to a sheet
metal cutting profile for many years.  I had loaned it
out to a neighbor (machinist type) who bought a whole set
of S/D drills and ground them all down to the same profile.
The end looks like:

                           ^
           ~              / \              ~
           |\____________/   \____________/|
           |                               |

and is ground out with a narrow dressed grinding wheel
by eye.  To do 1" you do wind up removing quite a bit
of material, but have created a lifetime tool.

Regards,
  Fox sends.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:38 EST 1996
Article: 43846 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 15:55:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 23
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X-Admin: news@aol.com
X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <jesw-0512960856320001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
(James Wilkins) writes:

>The overload has never kicked out in 20 years of use. The idea was to
find
>the manufacturer's maximum allowable current rating and size the pulleys
>to get near it but only for short intervals. 
>
>

Yup, I understoof that from your post but my concern would be if an air
hose breaks or develops a bad leak then the compressor runs full time
until someone notices or in  this case the overload trips or *worse*
doesn't trip! That could be days if we go away fro the weekend. It eats
too far into the safety margin.

The Motors on my Campbell Hausfields are rated for continuous use. The
only thing that gets really hot is the air delivery tube from the
compressor to the receiver. That would not be too much of a problem if it
ran for three days with a big leak.

Peter



From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:39 EST 1996
Article: 43847 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sherline Mods
Date: 12 Dec 1996 19:07:05 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies -- Bell Labs Innovations
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Hi everyone.

A while back someone posted a referece to some Sherline lathe mods.
These mods rigidly attached the headstock to the bed and made the
tailstock adjustable.  (I hope they retained the ability to disable it
so that I can rotate the headstock to turn a taper)

I thought I saved this information but I cant seem to find it. 
Does anyone else know where I can find it? 

I did find an article about some mods someone made to a mill using
a headstock spacer, which may be helpful.

Thanks
chuck sherwood
-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From steamer@west.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:40 EST 1996
Article: 43848 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn tool/cutter grinder
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:17:09 -0800
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	--IMO the Quorn is way cool. Be warned that when it is complete it is 
a bear to lift, so if you use it infrequently you should store it on the 
bench not under it, to save your back. My next mod. to the design will be 
to make two cases to hold sections that are easier to lift and store...
	--As for size of workpieces that can be sharpened, ground, etc. 
1/2" endmills would not be a problem on the machine. There have also been 
bazillions of follow-up articles in ME which describe ways to do a 
variety of other operations with the machine. 
	--Estimated time to build mine: 36hrs per week for maybe 2 or 3 
months (going slow, being careful and not being terribly clever at the 
time!) 
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Duravi, ergo	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	Impavidus Sum
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:42 EST 1996
Article: 43849 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:47 GMT
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"D.Young" <jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>Hi there,

>	I know very little about welding but I would like to learn the art.  It
>just seems like such a useful skill.  I wouldn't mind throughing
>together a utility trailer to start with.  What would be the best type
>of welding setup that would be cheap and easy to operate for a beginner
>such as myself???  Any comments or suggestions are welcomed.

>Thanks, Dan

I built tons of stuff (literally) with a Lincoln 225 amp AC
welder of the type often seen in Home Depot or mail order
catalogs.  Miller also makes a nice home shop welder that
size.  They need a 50 amp 220V plug to power them.  I highly
recommend getting a name brand welder like Lincoln, or
Miller, etc.  Welding equipment can be used a long time, and
parts will be available.

That welder plus a small horizontal metal cutting bandsaw, a
hand held 4 1/2" grinder (I use a DeWalt 6amp model),  an
imported 1/2" capacity drill press, and a bunch of "C"
clamps, and you can make a lot of useful things.  One really
terrific "accessory" for your electric welder is an oxy/Acet
cutting torch.  

Most of welding is cutting and fitting metal.  The arc
welding part doesn't take to long on most small projects.  

One other extremely useful gadget is some sort of strong
magnet in an aluminum 1 qt. pot with a handle.  Wave it
around clost to the surface over which you have been working
with ferrous metal and it  will pickup all the grindings and
metal pieces that fall on the ground or concrete.  The pot
keeps them seperated from the magnet.  Pick up the magnet
and they will fall off the pot, into a waste container if
you happen to be holding it over one.  Really helps with the
clean up.

Pay attention to "where" you weld and cut.  Think safety.
The stuff is hot and can throw sparks capable of starting
fires a long ways - like 15 or 20 feet.  It is also really
hot.

Fitch



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:43 EST 1996
Article: 43850 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 6 Dec 1996 15:47:27 GMT
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One might be able to buy just the air spindle and collet drawbar from Darex and go 
grom there.

Regards, Mark



From gedwards@onramp.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:45 EST 1996
Article: 43851 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: George Edwards <gedwards@onramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 09:58:05 -0600
Organization: OnRamp Technologies; ISP;  Dallas/Ft Worth/Houston, TX USA
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Steve Wellcome wrote:
> 
> Saying that something is automatically "good" because it's made
> in country X and something is automatically "bad" because it's
> made in country Y is pretty silly.  Some places may IN GENERAL
> produce better- or lesser-quality equipment, but one really has
> to look at each individual case.
> 
> I think USA tools are still pretty good.

Totally agree!  To quote 2 well used but often ignored sayings:

"You gets what you pays for" and "There ain't no such thing as a free
lunch"

George


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:46 EST 1996
Article: 43852 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Quorn t/c grinder
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 11:31:34 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 31
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In article <19961206135200.IAA20455@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
vincent49@aol.com wrote:

>>Anyone out there who has built the Quorn tool/cutter grinder,
> >please give your opinion.
>
>Quorn,Quorn,Quorn ! I hear so much about it,  but how does one get to see
>an image of one ? how has everyone else seen one ?  Am I the only one who
>wonders "what does it look like ? " 
>
>If anyone has built one , if they please post a JPEG or gif somewhere ,
>and  notify the newsgroup , this curious cat would be happy.
>
>PS I need a T/C grinder , it is not just idle curiosity

A web search turned up this.
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~chernich/quorn.htm

for some od reason I did not get in through that link but

http://www.ozemail.com.au/~chernich/hsm.htm

worked fine and folowed the links from this  page to the quorn page

I have not seen a picture of the machine on the web though... perhaps a
note to Ron Chernich (of the above pages) would induce him to include a GIF
of his finished machine on his web page.


Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:13:47 EST 1996
Article: 43853 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: vetted postings--or am I screwing up?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 16:36:07 GMT
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Are the postings on this board vetted? .i.e. scanned by someone for
inclusion/exclusion? Or am I messing up the procedure somehow? None of my
posts in the last two weeks have been posted. howcum?
Les Whitaker hoofe@intecnet.net


From williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov Tue Dec 17 14:13:48 EST 1996
Article: 43854 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Dr. Mark E. Williams" <williams@osb.wff.nasa.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: fireplace screen
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 12:11:45 -0500
Organization: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center -- Greenbelt, Maryland USA
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Peter B. Schneider, M.D. wrote:
> 
> I wish to construct a custom fireplace spark guard screen. Does anyone
> know of a source of suitable iron (or maybe steel) wire screening. My
> local metal supplier does not know of a source and thinks that the
> screening may be made by the spark guard manufactuerer for their own
> use.
Several places to contact:

Hub Wire Cloth Company
68 Vine Street
Everett, MA 02149
617-387-8750

McNichols Company
P.O.Box 30300
Tampa, FL 33630-3300
800-237-3820

Ametco
4326 Hamann Parkway
Willoughby, Ohio  44094
216-951-4300
800-321-7042
216-951-2542  fax


-- 
Dr. Mark E. Williams
Bldg N-159, Rm E-215
NASA/GSFC/WFF/EG&G
Wallops Island, VA 23337
804-824-1744
williams@color.wff.nasa.gov

Be ye doers of the word and not hearers only, lest ye deceive
yourselves.
James 1:22


From cw028212@bcm.REMOVE.TO.REPLY.tmc.edu Tue Dec 17 14:13:50 EST 1996
Article: 43855 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cw028212@bcm.REMOVE.TO.REPLY.tmc.edu (C R Wright)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hole in the wheel is too small.
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 12:16:18 -0600
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In article <589cgk$c1m@herald.concentric.net>, crostown@concentric.net
(JD) wrote:

>    Nathan J Nagel <gearhead+@andrew.cmu.edu> wrote:

> >to.. by "J. Dunn" <"DunnIn@bc.sy 

> >> You guys are all wrong about the centre hole in the wheel.Have you not 
> >> noticed that its the perfect size to hold your beer when your doing 
> >> your brakes.
> >
> >So what do you do if you have a five-bolt Bug?

> You need to get a really big can of beer!

Why do you think the Germans have such wonderful 1 litre Bier Steins?

-cw

-- 
My apologies for the invalid return address, I was losing the war against the auto-mailers and SPAM junkies. Mail should be addressed to user: cw028212 @ bcm.tmc.edu 


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:51 EST 1996
Article: 43856 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cast Iron Welding
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:15:02 GMT
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Charles Gallo (Charles_Gallo@msn.com) wrote:
: And you all Missed Foobar, which is a corruption of FUBAR, which is 
: F____D up beyond all recognition

Nah, didn't miss it; simply thought it was 'obvious to the casual observer'.
:-)

Pete Brooks



From fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:13:52 EST 1996
Article: 43857 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Frank Scott <fscott@frasco.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Density of metals?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:26:20 
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In article: <58n8p8$v8i@news-feed3.globalnet.co.uk>  patm@globalnet.co.uk (Pat Missin) 
writes:
> Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
> commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
> density of ABS plastic?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
>  -- Pat Missin
> 
> patm@globalnet.co.uk
> 

All values all specific gravities  (ie ratio of density with respect to water)

Aluminium  2.60
Alloys  2.6 to 2.8 

Brasses from 8.40 to 8.9
eg gilding metal 8.86
    yellow brass 8.47
    red brass 8.75
   Muntz metal 8.39
   Naval brass 8.41
  
Ferritic and martensitic stainless steels about 7.7
Austenitic stainless steels about 8

ABS  1.020 to 1.070

This data extracted from Newnes Engineering Materials Pocket Book

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Frank Scott  Sutton, London|
Web site: <http.frasco.demon.co.uk>
More than you'll want to know about my 6 legged robot
---------------------------------------------------------------------------




From Metaliks@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:53 EST 1996
Article: 43858 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Glen Gardner <Metaliks@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Applying Lacquer to Polished Brass
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:12:14 +0000
Organization: Netcom
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To: Orest I Koroluk <koroluk-o@rmc.ca>

A great product formulated especially for copper & brass alloys is 
called "Incralac" It is manufactured by Stan Chem in New Berlin, 
CT. It is available in laquer base or water base. Based on acryllic 
resin it contains benzotriazonole which chemically bonds with the 
copper and prevents oxidation under the coating. It has an exterior 
life of over 5 years in harsh enviornments. A company called 
"Custom Aerosol Products" in Piqua, OH sells the laquer based 
version in spray cans and by the quart. Stan Chem sells only by 5 
gallon pails or more. This is GREAT stuff and is commonly used for 
preservation of outdoor sculpture.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:55 EST 1996
Article: 43859 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a Tool & Cutter Grinder Kit
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:40:30 GMT
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Paul Amaranth (paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com) wrote:

: A simple grinding table is shown in the Feb '88 Projects in Metal.  This
: looks like the minimum you would need to be able to gring tool bits
: properly.

In Metalworking Book 1.

: And somewhere else, where I can't locate it now, although I think it also
: is a PIM article, there's a pretty sophisticated cutter grinder article
: that includes an air bearing spindle to traverse your cutter against the
: grinding wheel.  It's more involved than the June '96 project.

In metalworking Book 2.


: None of these require any castings, although some do require welding.

The first table does, though I think the second doesn't.  I suspect you
could work around the welding requirements for the first table if you
did a good job at setting it up to bolt together.

Pete Brooks




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:13:56 EST 1996
Article: 43860 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Power Hacksaw
Date: 6 Dec 1996 18:37:38 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <589p5i$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <01bbdd6e$1eb46320$21efb081@r0025725.mayo.edu> <32A487D0.42D4@gaas.enet.dec.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Frank MacLean also did a power hacksaw.  It's in the Village Press
_Shop Wisdom of_ series.

Pete Brooks



From forgeditor@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:03 EST 1996
Article: 43861 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: forgeditor@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: books to learn from
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:01:12 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <19961206190100.OAA25332@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32a677f9.172256550@news.pacbell.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

I'm not sure if this is the same, but American Machinist magazine was
purchased by Penton Publishing (from McGraw Hill) about eight years ago.
Try contacting Patricia Smith, American Machinist, 1100 Superior Ave.,
Cleveland, OH 44114. Phone 216-696-7000. They may be able to help.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:05 EST 1996
Article: 43862 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!spool.mu.edu!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mill or Lathe w/Mill Attachment
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:20:10 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <589rla$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <32A48267.22FC@execpc.com> <Pine.OSF.3.95.961204081328.15241A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcc01.corp.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

For me, I started with a Taig, then got their vertical milling fixture 
(way too small), then went with the Sherline mill.  I've starting doing
stuff that's too big on the Sherline, so now I have a mill-drill.  At
this rate, I'll have a Cinncinatti in a few years.  :-)

Seriously, the main limitation on the column is size.  If you can live
with it, you'll be OK, but IMHO, buy the biggest mill you can afford.
The Sherline 5400 is definately a good bet.  (If I hadn't gone with the
mill-drill, I'd have purchased the horizontal milling widget.)

Pete Brooks



From garyh82012@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:07 EST 1996
Article: 43863 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: garyh82012@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How do I get back to newsgroup?
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:22:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <19961206192200.OAA25690@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

After messing with
the read/unread button, I am now unable return to board. Any help?


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:08 EST 1996
Article: 43864 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Used Machinery Dealers
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:07:32 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32a96d4e.26478034@news.sprynet.com>
Reply-To: ssl@loganact.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: ad12-006.compuserve.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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I just wanted to make everyone aware of a used machinery dealer with
whom I have had very good experiences.

Andy Popky <machtool@ix.netcom.com> has supplied me with a 24" Master
Vernier Caliper, and now an Aloris AXA Tool Post Set.  He has provided
tools in EXCELLENT condition, and at very good prices.  I can now
wholeheartedly endorse him to anyone who is looking for tools.

Now, if I can just get him to use UPPER and lower case letters MiXeD
iN tHe same message <g>.

Thanks again, Andy.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:11 EST 1996
Article: 43865 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:12:09 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <589r69$qst@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <580il5$1ba@hecate.umd.edu> <582p1f$45u@news.proaxis.com>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mark Winlund (packrat@proaxis.com) wrote:
: cutters anywhere... we buy hundreds from them. Also good is Eastern tool, but watch 
: always the cheapest.) Avoid Enco like the plague.


Hmm, I thought Eastern sold Enco stuff.  At least, they will take orders
>from  Enco numbers, and their quality is the same.  What am I missing here?

BTW, I've used Eastern for Sherline stuff, though now with Jim Harvey
and Morton selling Sherline through the net, I'll steer my business that
way.

I do know that I'm spoiled by having an Enco dealership local to me.  Makes it
possible to get a good look at something before I buy.

BTW, Enco's 9 x 20" lathe no longer has a quick change gear box.  Glad mine
has it.

Pete Brooks




From ima2mer@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:12 EST 1996
Article: 43866 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!not-for-mail
From: Nate <ima2mer@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Barnes Pedal Lathe  WTB
Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:05:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet Services for the Internet
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <32ACB707.6020@primenet.com>
X-Posted-By: @206.165.50.184 (ima2mer)
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MIME-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Has anyone out there seen a Barnes Pedal lathe. I'm interested in
locating one in complete condition.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:14 EST 1996
Article: 43867 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 22:45:36 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32b1b552.398539699@news.islandnet.com>
References: <01bbe5f9$11e29520$7477da80@mycroft>
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"Mike Scott" <scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu> wrote:

>Hello everybody,
>I dont know a darned thing about metalworking, unfortunately, but
>what I want to do is bend a piece of sheet metal into a box shape
>with a flange on the bottom for attaching a screen across the base.
>Is there some kind of  tool I can get to help me make nice right angle 
>bends, or should I not even try and do it myself?

If this is a 'one-off' and you are not into metal working I would
suggest to go to your local sheet metal fabricator and have him bend
the case on his finger break. Might cost you ten bucks (if you have
the shape cut out already) but you'll get it done right and you don't
need to mess around with it. 

Jens


From garyh82012@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:15 EST 1996
Article: 43868 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!homer.alpha.net!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: garyh82012@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Getting Back
Date: 6 Dec 1996 19:55:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <19961206195500.OAA26306@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

What I meant to say was: How do I get the neswgroup window to display all
messages? The help  window mentions a choice called "List All subjects"
but I don't see that option anywhere. I want to look up some old postings,
such as the address and phone # for Atlas/Clausing, but they are no longer
displayed. I am only seeing new postings. Please help if you can, thanks,
Gary


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Dec 17 14:14:17 EST 1996
Article: 43869 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.monmouth.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!205.252.116.190!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chaos.crhc.uiuc.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!latcha
From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline parallels
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:37:32 -0500
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 55
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.95.961211083213.2700A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
References: <58jfd9$kv1@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>
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In-Reply-To: <58jfd9$kv1@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>

I took an even cheaper approach, sort of following Briney's advice in his
book.  Took some 3/8"x2 1/2" aluminum bar stock, cut off a piece 3" long,
then cut that piece lengthwise in half.  Flycut the flats of both pieces
until parallel (just clean-up cuts), then mated them together in the vice,
with lots of indicating, to clean up the other surfaces.  In about an hour
I ended up with a set of aluminum parallels that were as accurate as the
Sherline milling column, as well as lots of good experience indicating
surfaces true before cutting.... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 10 Dec 1996, Randy Gordon-Gilmore wrote:

> Well, not parallels marketed by Sherline!  
> 
> I recently bought a Sherline mill with some attachments from Jim Harvey (fast, 
> friendly service but what happened to the T-nuts, Jim? :-)  The mill vice has 
> jaws that are only 1" deep, and I could not find any parallel sets that didn't 
> go all the way up to 1-7/8", and the sets cost a good fraction of what the mill 
> did!
> 
> So I got to looking in the MSC catalog, and among all the fluff :-) saw several 
> pages of ground steel stock.  Compared to parallels, it is dirt cheap, so I 
> bought some Staratt oil-hardening stock in 1/8" thick, and 1/4" to 7/8" 
> thickness by 1/8's.
> 
> I did not expect it to be ground "to size", but figured that it would be even 
> enough so that I could selectively cut a couple of 6" pieces from each 18" 
> stock length.  When the steel arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find that 
> the parallelism of each piece along the width was well within .0005"!  I 
> hacksawed the steel in three, deburred the edges, and have some nice "hobby 
> quality" parallels for my Sherline!
> 
> One caveat is, that the squareness of the ground stock is not as good as "real" 
> parallels.  I set up pairs of the "parallels" on the magnetic chuck of the 
> surface grinder at work, sitting on their 1/8" faces, and found that the upper 
> edges would converge/diverge by a few thou.  Just enough to be able to rock one 
> up on a corner before it touched the other.  But, again, more than good enough 
> for the model railroading work for which I am using the mill.
> 
> Randy
> --
> gord-gil@ix.netcom.com ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
> Randy Gordon-Gilmore  // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
> Benicia, CA, USA     /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
>                                   -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-
> 
> 
> 



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:18 EST 1996
Article: 43870 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:37:46 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32b11027.25010922@news.islandnet.com>
References: <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net> <32aceb55.0@mothra.westworld.com> <32ad5a01.440698921@news.islandnet.com> <32aea004.666342@news.sprynet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: i2-31.islandnet.com
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent .99g/16.339

ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>>Yah, but it only works for newsgroups at the moment - apparently they
>>are working on a similar feature for email :)
>
>It works.  It's called Agent (not Free Agent).  Costs $29.  Also has
>Kill-File, and Watch.

I use Agent .... (not Free Agent) ... and as stated above it ONLY
works for newsgroups. With email you can set up filing filters so you
could create a folder called 'junk' and have the unwanted email
direted that way but you still end up receiving it and you will need
to delete the stuff manually.

Jens


From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:14:19 EST 1996
Article: 43871 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E28xwp.Fv9@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
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Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <19961209184600.NAA18982@ladder01.news.aol.com>  
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:14:48 GMT
Lines: 31



Most of the steam engine stuff seems to be here on RCM.





In a previous article, woofter@aol.com () says:

>t-for-mail
>From: woofter@aol.com
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject: Steam Engines
>Date: 9 Dec 1996 18:47:11 GMT
>Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
>Lines: 4
>Message-ID: <19961209184600.NAA18982@ladder01.news.aol.com>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
>X-Admin: news@aol.com
>
>I'm looking for a newsgroup which deals exclusively with steam engines. 
>My on line server says there aren't any but I find that hard to belive. 
>Any help is appreciated.
>Bob
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:14:21 EST 1996
Article: 43872 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plasma cutter advice?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 22:25:52 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <01bbe61e$6a05e840$e81f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
References: <32A087E4.1104@norfolk.infi.net> <19961201032400.WAA08786@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.0.31.232
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155



pnpnolan@aol.com wrote in article
<19961201032400.WAA08786@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <32A087E4.1104@norfolk.infi.net>, Mike
> <mikeflip@norfolk.infi.net> writes:
> Peter:
Being new here, I wasn't aware that anyone other than Smithy built/sold a
mill/lathe combo. Is the Sherlin such a beast? I don't have room for a mill
and a lathe, and I'm too old to worry about precision to the nth degree
anymore, +/- .002 will do. What attracts me to the Smithy is the complete
availability of all the goodies that (presumably) bolt right on, and the
std. MT setup. I know about the pitfalls of combo machines, and decided I
can live nicely with those.

Les Whitaker
> >
> >
> 
> Try and resist. Once you own a Sherline you will be hooked. Kiss your
> spare time, your wife the dog the cat and the kids goodbye. You will
begin
> to live in the garage. It gets worse. You will want bigger machines, you
> will justify their cost and you will have them. Stick around we are
mostly
> all in the same boat.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:14:22 EST 1996
Article: 43873 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-14.sprintlink.net!news-penn.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-dc.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.belnet.be!swsbe6.switch.ch!swidir.switch.ch!surfnet.nl!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 16:14:30 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32ADEED6.5D24@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com> <19961209211500.QAA22776@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: pnpnolan@aol.com

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com>, Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com>
> writes:
> 
> >If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump
> >sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from
> >it any day of the week (unless you have a racing engine.)  All you need
> >is a long hose and a way to get to the intake manifold.  I've used it for
> 
> >everything from evacuating A/C systems to "debubbling" epoxy and it seems
> 
> >to work just fine.  Maybe not ideal, but it's cheap!
> >
> >
> 
> This is the *really* neat thing about NGs. What a clever idea, $1.00 for
> hose from Home depot.
> 
> Peter
> Still learning.

Saw some septic tank pump truckers (operating on a shoestring) who
utilized
manifold vacuum (hope they had a trap on it) to draw sewage out of
septic
tanks...  Like someone just said vacuum is vacuum.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From crick@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 14:14:23 EST 1996
Article: 43874 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Crick <crick@bnr.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 16:58:43 -0500
Organization: Bell Northern Research
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> Washed Mind wrote:
> >
> > If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> > then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> > your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> > your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> > you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

brainWashed Mind seems to have forgotten the 11th commandment

THOU SHALT NOT SPAM!

I wonder if theses fanatical zealots realize how much damage
they do to their own cause doing stuff like this!

Bill Crick
Brewius, Ergo Sum!


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:25 EST 1996
Article: 43875 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 22:45:25 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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As per the original posters ISP in response to my complaint:

"We already took care of him just a few minutes ago (with the first 
complaint). Thank you for the email. We do whatever we can to stop
this garbage."

Hope we can let this thread die now.

Regards


From jrr0@watson.ibm.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:26 EST 1996
Article: 43876 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jrr0@watson.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 16:04:11 GMT
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
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In <32AE2F5F.61A3@erols.com>, Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com> writes:
  <snip>
>
>That's a fair comment, and one should always be thoughtful about the systems one
>evacuates. 
>Regards,
>Michael Hanz

Reminds me of the house vacuum system here at work.  One time some fool
in the lab sucked up a bunch of *ether* into the system.  All the pumps
caught on fire!  

Also, consider that vacuum pumps (surplus, especially) have been *used*
for something - sometimes for pumping systems with toxic mixtures or
by-products of reactions.  Nowadays anybody like Leybold or Veeco
or Balzers who is in the vacuum business views a pump coming in for
rebuild with *extreme* prejudice.  Each pump must have a person
who personally knows what was in it, and will be responsible if a mechanic
gets injured, or they will NOT touch it.

As far as de-gassing goes, my experience is on preparing epoxy potting
compounds, and I believe that anything other than a 2-stage pump
capable of pumping to 10 millitorr will not do the job.  Yes, the epoxy
will foam.  It is supposed to, and you must size the lot to not overflow
the container.  This is the only way to remove all the entrained air - 
for us, this is critical, as we use the epoxy to make cryogenic vacuum
feedthrus.  However, the material properties improve otherwise, as
well, and de-gassing is a straightforward step.

Bell jar, short vacuum hose, small manifold for venting/pumping,
and a 2-stage pump is what is called for here.

Jim



From john@siu.edu Tue Dec 17 14:14:27 EST 1996
Article: 43877 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "John R. Johnson" <john@siu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:02:23 -0600
Organization: Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
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On Thu, 5 Dec 1996, Roger Grady wrote:

> Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com> wrote:
> 
> >phony wrote:
> >> Can someone enlighten me here? I know rotary engines (as defined
> >>above) were used on some early aircraft, by why? Surely everything
> >>gets hideously complex, with the engine rotating about a fixed shaft.
> >>Why did they ever do it that way?
> >>
> >Cooling. The lubricants of the time were lousy. Spinning the cylinders was
> >an 'elegant' solution.
> 
> As were the carburetors. Wasn't it the Gnome rotary that had no
> throttle control? The pilot reduced power for landing by switching the
> ignition on and off.
> 
Actually, the carburetors were not all that bad.  It was just that the
Gnome didn't have one!  Fuel was sprayed into the crankcase in a way
overrich mixture.  For the first two thirds of the intake stroke the
single valve in the head, which was used for both exhaust and intake,
was still open drawing in plain air.  Then the valve closed for the last
third of the intake travel creating a partial vacuum in the cylinder.
In the early Gnomes there was an inertial valve in the center of the
piston that opened at bottom dead center and let rich mixture into the
cylinder where it was diluted in the air already drawn in.  The later
Gnomes merely had a transfer passage that was uncovered near the bottom
of the stroke.  Then at the top of the compression stroke ( about 5 to
1 compression ) the spark plug passed by the magneto and fired!
Just before the bottom of the power stroke the valve in the cylinder
head opened and let the gasses start outward so they wouldn't contaminate
the mixture in the crankcase.

They used castor oil for lubricant so the fuel in the crankcase wouldn't
wash the oil away.  

The engine didn't have a power peak in the normal sense.  The torque 
peak was high enough that the power just kept increasing with RPM up
to about 1000 RPM.  After that the cooling drag increased at the same
rate as the power up to about 1500 rpm so the net power output just
stopped increasing.  

You couldn't throttle them because the crankcase was always full of an
explosive mixture!  As a result the used the "coupe" button which 
grounded the magneto for speed control.  This caused the engine to
blip in and out.  The large rotating mass ensured the engine would
restart immediately when the shorting button was released.

In all of the early WWI movies they had recorded a Thomas Morse Scout
landing, which used the rotary engine.  The director liked the bruup
bruup bruup sound so well that they dubbed the intermittent sound of
the Gnome Rotary at partial power onto the later OX-5's and Hisso's.
It is strange to see a Witchita Fokker ( Elephant ear Travelaire ) 
pretending to be a Mercedes powered Fokker, but actually powered with
a Hispano-Suiza V-8 sounding like a little Gnome Rotary being killed!

The castor oil lubrication was an open loop system and the rotating
engine sprayed a dense cloud of castor oil into the air behind the
engine.  The WWI fighter pilots spent hours inside that cloud with
predictable regularity problems.  Someone spread the rumor that large
quantities of premium French Cognac would counteract the internal
lubricity of the castor oil, so the pilots imbibed large quantities
of cognac.  This was not so much to get well oiled, as to prevent 
being too well oiled! :)

John



From chi@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:14:28 EST 1996
Article: 43878 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Curt Hagenlocher" <chi@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: 11 Dec 1996 15:53:46 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <01bbe77c$80fac660$1f71face@chi.earthlink.net>
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Les Bartel <"(email me at) lbartel"@veribest.com> wrote in article
<32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>...
> Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
> inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
> bits are sized in fractions of an inch.

Sorry... as a new arrival to this hobby, I've run into this same
problem.  There is no direct correlation between them.  I'm not
sure if there is a formula for the wire gage sizes, but here are
some sample diameters from Machinery's Handbook.

Gage	Diameter (in)
10	.1935
9	.1960
8	.1990
7	.2010
6	.2040

As you can see, there is neither an obvious formula relating gage
to diameter, nor is there any correlation between these sizes and
the set of x/64" diameter twist drills that can be bought at most
hardware / home improvement stores.  Unless you're willing to live
with the difference between the closest drill you have and the drill
you want (not a particularly good idea for tapping), you'll just have
to find a tool store that caters to a more sophisticated :-) clientele.

--
Curt Hagenlocher
chi@earthlink.net


From ptraynha@harris.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:29 EST 1996
Article: 43879 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Traynham <ptraynha@harris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 12 Dec 1996 21:33:21 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor
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Red Gem <cgermina@inf.unitn.it> wrote:
>Washed Mind wrote:
>> 
>> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

  
Hey Red.  Maybe you should go get a decent education before judging our 
hobby.  "Your" implies posessession (not the devil kind).  "You're" is a 
contraction for YOU ARE.

After you get back from 3rd grade,  maybe you can start thinking for 
yourself instead of believing everything you read.  

And don't assume  that just because we enjoy a hobby, we're (note: the 
"we are" contraction) keeping our minds occupied to avoid God.  I often 
thank God for a good beer.

Paul




From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:31 EST 1996
Article: 43880 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: 11 Dec 1996 13:36:21 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: Mike,Scott,<scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu

Yep, the tool you need is called a sheet metal brake.  They're
pretty expensive to buy, unfortunately, more than you might 
guess.  Dave Gingery has published some plans to build one, 
however, that would probably be big enough for what you'd want.
Check in the Lindsay catalog (see FAQ for address).  There
were also plans for one published in a back issue of Projects
in Metal, I think.

Of course, since you don't know anything about metalworking (yet),
you'll have to learn about metalworking before you can build
the sheet metal brake....  ;-)  Welcome to the project-to-build-
the project-so-I-can-build-the-project-I-really-want syndrome!

It might be easier to come up with the several hundred dollars
it would take to buy a small commercial brake.


Of course, if the parts you're talking about are fairly small, 
you can get by fairly well by clamping the sheet between a couple
pieces of angle iron in a big vise, perhaps with some extra 
C-clamps on the outboard ends of the angle irons to keep them
together, and banging the sheetmetal over with a rubber mallet.





From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:32 EST 1996
Article: 43881 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: 11 Dec 1996 13:36:43 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: scottm@itsa.ucsf.edu

Yep, the tool you need is called a sheet metal brake.  They're
pretty expensive to buy, unfortunately, more than you might 
guess.  Dave Gingery has published some plans to build one, 
however, that would probably be big enough for what you'd want.
Check in the Lindsay catalog (see FAQ for address).  There
were also plans for one published in a back issue of Projects
in Metal, I think.

Of course, since you don't know anything about metalworking (yet),
you'll have to learn about metalworking before you can build
the sheet metal brake....  ;-)  Welcome to the project-to-build-
the project-so-I-can-build-the-project-I-really-want syndrome!

It might be easier to come up with the several hundred dollars
it would take to buy a small commercial brake.


Of course, if the parts you're talking about are fairly small, 
you can get by fairly well by clamping the sheet between a couple
pieces of angle iron in a big vise, perhaps with some extra 
C-clamps on the outboard ends of the angle irons to keep them
together, and banging the sheetmetal over with a rubber mallet.





From sudnum@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:14:33 EST 1996
Article: 43882 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bil Mundus <sudnum@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Die Filer Files
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 04:02:15 -0400
Organization: Disorganized in Ann Arbor, Michigan
Lines: 7
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To: Darrell Collins <dcollin@goodnet.com>

Darrell-
I found a set of files for my Keller at Winchester Tool Supply Corp.
1051 Saw Mill River Road, Yonkers, NY 10710. 
Phone 1-800-431-2936, Fax (914)9653144
The catalog dosen't show prices but it seemed reasonable to me at the
time, and the die filer aint much good without them.
Bil M


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:34 EST 1996
Article: 43883 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 18
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In article <01bbe6f6$a19bb4a0$4850bacd@#billsr.ix.netcom.com>, "William J.
Graf Sr." <billsr@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>I have Netcom and have unlimited time, prime or not for $19.95 a
>month.  Only get a busy signal once in a while.  Also, I went
>with the AOL option of connecting with my Internet Service
>Provider for 9.95 a month and have had no problem connecting.
>B

That might make a few Netcom users in this neck of the woods envious. We
have 40 hours a month prime. 

By going straight through AOL now that it is unlimited, would save you the
extra $10 over Netcom, providing of course you have a local access number
for AOL.

Peter



From tcgb@tattoo.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:14:35 EST 1996
Article: 43884 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 6 Dec 1996 21:58:24 GMT
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To: filipg@paranoia.com

filipg@paranoia.com (Filip M Gieszczykiewicz) wrote:
>In Article <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net>, through puissant locution, jack yates <myzr@ldl.net> soliloquized:
>>...Uh-HUH!  I've heard of and [not] seen this too..a man over in Alabama 
>>welds cracked automotive cylinder heads; no welder, no kiln, no heat.  I 
>>took one to him once and picked it up the next day; it wasn't even warm. 
>> I asked him how it was done (of course) and he politely told me that he 
>>wasn't going to tell me; it had cost him $2000 and a year's 
>>apprenticeship to learn it from someone else and if I wanted to know it 
>>would cost me as well!  He did use the words "chemical-pin" but that may 
>>have been a smoke screen of sorts.  Whatever the process is, it works, 
>[zap]

I have seen this cold welding done a long time ago when I was at school, I 
used to go a visit my grandfather after school and he used to do this on 
cracked cylinder heads and between the bores on the engine blocks.

Holes were drilled either side of the crack and then a groove filed going 
across the crack to the hole opposite. When the right depth was filed out 
a strap was hammered into the holes and groove, think of a cartoon of a 
strongman holding a set of barbels, a bar with a ball on each end.

If this is done correctly after it is skimmed over you have to look real 
hard to see where the crach was, the hammering in of the strap would pull 
up the crack and seal it, there may have been some sealer or chemical used 
as well, but this was about 25 years ago and I cannot remember exactly how 
it was done.,

It is still done today, I have been told.

Lionel 



From ahicks@nmt.edu Tue Dec 17 14:14:37 EST 1996
Article: 43885 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ahicks@nmt.edu (Aaron Hicks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Weird gears
Date: 12 Dec 1996 03:25:11 GMT
Organization: New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <58ntun$55b@newshost.nmt.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dunn.nmt.edu

	I'm trying to repair a Mettler Type H-6 balance; this is an older
unit, verging on antique. It is, on the other hand, utterly without repair
parts if you listen to the Mettler company, their sales and service
folks, and independent balance repair technicians in the field.
	In any event, the little bit that is broken in this particular
unit is an excruciatingly odd gear; it consists of some 100 teeth in a
ring with the teeth perpendicular to the plane of the plate it comes from.
It's plastic, and injection-molded; the diameter of the ring is about 1",
and *heh* to complicate things, it is off-center from the hole in the
center (which has another gear to it, one which is undoubtedly a stock
gear).
	The manner in which it is broken is that about half the teeth are
stripped from it, all of which are from the one side; when it would turn,
a tooth would pop off, and in doing so, lodge it such that it would cause
*more* teeth to be broken off. So, well; the part is no good.
	The balance is accurate to four places (.1 mg); it's a perfectly
functional piece of equipment, other than this part (which is obviously a
sacrificial part, in order to keep something more delicate from being broken
when something sticks). I've checked a few stock books for something like
this, to no avail; to make things worse, I only need one or two.
	Anyway; if anybody knows this specific part (and knows where to get
more!), or has any brilliant ideas as to how I could go about producing
this part from stock items, I would certainly appreciate any help that any
member of the newsgroup could give me.
	Thanks in advance,

	-AJHicks
	Wonk
	Socorro, NM



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:38 EST 1996
Article: 43886 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:05:46 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 5
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Some of the jewelry supply houses have a resin material that they sell by the 
pound... heat it up to place it and remove it. Try Swests.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:39 EST 1996
Article: 43887 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:08:32 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Don't forget vacuum. 15lbs per square inch adds up. I've put sandpaper down (glued) 
to a vacuum plate... holds very well.

REgards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:40 EST 1996
Article: 43888 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:12:07 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 5
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At the risk of starting another battle royale, I'd say wait a while... like 50 
years. Enco is not noted for their service, quality, or anything else.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:41 EST 1996
Article: 43889 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:20:20 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 4
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Ah, but now you can build something else,  and you already have the tools!

REgards, Mark



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:43 EST 1996
Article: 43890 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:41:28 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32AF3898.7D6F@hre.com>
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PyroWare wrote:
> 
> Sorry Jim, Spaceship grade aluminum won't hack it in my current project.
> I do need a good source for Time Machine grade aluminum ASAP, tho!  <g>
> 
> Kurt
> 
> > Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote in article <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com>...
> > I have a small quantity of Spaceship grade aluminum scrap for sale.
> > Email me for prices.
> >
> > Jim"Spaceranger" Harvey
> > wayout@hre.com
> > http://hre.com
> >
> >
> >YOu shoulda called me last week! Me & AnDy PoPkY sold a bunch of Time 
machine stuff to some guy from rec.brewing!

Jim "Time Bandit" Harvey
AnDy'S_GaNg@hre.com
http://hre.com




From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:44 EST 1996
Article: 43891 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" South Bend
Date: 12 Dec 1996 13:19:55 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <58p0pr$lth@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
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In <58d5o1$2vm@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM> white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White,
SMO Administration - 63552) writes: 
>
>I recently purchased a 9" South Bend Lathe, model "c". It came without
>a motor. It also came without any printed information. Can anyone tell

>me what horsepower and speed motor I should install?

Ed,
These lathes were typically supplied with 1/2hp, 1725rpm., reversable
motors. The frame will really depend on the age of your Lathe, though
there is plenty of iron on the motor mount to adapt about any frame
size.
In later years, Southbend supplied motors by Leeson. This company is
still in business, and sells motors for less than typical Dayton & GE
prices. Harbor freight has a decent deal on 1/2hp US made motors as
well.
 Southbend can supply you with a parts manual. Just beware of their
prices! 

Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery (purveyor of used Southbend Parts)
http://hre.com/meridian


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:45 EST 1996
Article: 43892 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Binder for sand mold making.
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 03:02:19 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32b0b81f.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU (John Horvath) wrote:

>> form a large (10' by 10') sand-based casting mold.

>Whoa .... I wonder what size your furnace is ?????
>Are you building a replica of the Queen Mary in a 1:1 scale ?????
>At that size, any commercial casting or refractory supplier in your
>area will be more than glad to take your money.

>Jens

Bring cash.  Large bills are acceptable.

Fitch



From EmailTolbartel@veribest.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:47 EST 1996
Article: 43893 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Les Bartel <EmailTolbartel@veribest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 08:27:34 -0600
Organization: VeriBest, Inc.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32B01656.6016@veribest.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>, Les Bartel <"(email me at)
> lbartel"@veribest.com> writes:
> 
> >Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
> >inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
> >bits are sized in fractions of an inch.
> 
> Why not buy sets of number and letter drills for giving the best thread
> engagement?

Because I don't do enough tapping to make it worth buying.  Scott
pointed me to a great chart online - 
http://www.widell.com/drillsiz.html

-- 

 - les

I try to mean what I say, but sometime I don't say what I mean.
Therefore, it is up to you to make sure that what I say is what I
mean.

My return mail address is incorrect to prevent spammers from getting
my real address.

Les Bartel
lbartel@veribest.com
VeriBest, Inc.  (A wholly owned subsidiary of Intergraph Corp.)
Huntsville, AL. (Corporate office in Boulder CO.)


From jfross@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:48 EST 1996
Article: 43894 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jfross@ix.netcom.com (John Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Notice to ANDY POPKY
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:37:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Andy, you keep replying to the NG while at the same time changing the
"subject" header and NOT attaching the previous post.  So we don't
know what the hell you're talking about.  

It's like reading an advice column that says "Confidential to
Distraught in Detroit: What you are describing is a Class A felony in
Michigan.  Contact a criminal lawyer before talking any more about
this with your husband."

P.S.  Do you have a web page where you list the stuff you have for
sale?  It sounds like you have some things I could use.

John Ross

On Wed, 11 Dec 1996 21:26:04 -0500, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>if you are going to post this stupid list get it RIGHT at least!!!!
>
>(1) is there a new company called BOING??
>(2) MARTIN is now LOCKHEED MARTIN
>(3) PRATT & WHITNEY is on the balls of there ass
What on earth does this sentence mean?

>(4) there is no & between PERKIN ELMER
>(5) who cares
>(6) its stupid
>
>ap



From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:49 EST 1996
Article: 43895 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: machining ceramics
Date: 13 Dec 1996 00:25:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 14
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For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. I decided that the stuff
used in the tubes which I am making the transmitter out of is the best,
which is some sort of ceramic very similar to the clay used in clay pots.
I decided to take a broken pot from the basement and try to mill it, with
the obvious problem of chipping aand extreme dulling of the cutter. I need
a fairly precise cut for maximum heat transfer. I guess diamond bits will
work, but I haven't seen any for sale, and I think they are very
expensive. The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should I
just give up? Thanks for any info.

Alex.


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:51 EST 1996
Article: 43896 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 01:22:20 GMT
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On Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:21:19 -0600, Les Bartel <"(email me at)
lbartel"@veribest.com> wrote:

>Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
>inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
>bits are sized in fractions of an inch.

Check some catalogs, including MSC.  Many have a decimal equivalent
chart.  Also, I think Widell has one on their Web Site
http://www.widell.com/ or perhaps at their Drill Chart (real handy
pointer here): http://www.widell.com/drillsiz.html

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Dec 17 14:14:52 EST 1996
Article: 43897 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 13:00:49 -0500
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 25
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While it is certainly true that we here at r.c.m. do not deal exclusively
in steam engines, we are probably do more with them (building, running,
playing, building more, etc.) than the folks on any other newsgroup that
you will find.  There are very talented people here that will answer any
question about steam engines, or machining in general, that you can come
up with - even if they don't know the answer!  

Welcome.  You have just stumbled upon your future favorite newsgroup...

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On 9 Dec 1996 woofter@aol.com wrote:

> I'm looking for a newsgroup which deals exclusively with steam engines. 
> My on line server says there aren't any but I find that hard to belive. 
> Any help is appreciated.
> Bob
> 
> 



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:53 EST 1996
Article: 43898 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:49 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <01bbe72c$be4b3e00$83c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>, "Bill
Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca> writes:

>This will allow you to lock the carriage on the ways,
>insert the stock into the lathe chuck, face off the initial
>surface, set the parting tool at the cutoff position
>desired, reposition the stock until it hits the stop,
>retract the tailstock a specific distance to permit parting
>off without damaging the part or the stop, repositioning
>the tailstock, etc., etc., and then drilling the 1/4 inch
>hole you require in each part.
>
>

Didn't try this, but as I have responded to Fitch even 0.0015 at the bolt
circle diameter gave a significant angular displacement, binding the lead
screws.

Thanks anyway, I suspect I'll have to spring for the couplings.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:54 EST 1996
Article: 43899 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32ADD21A.1F37@ix.netcom.com>, Mike Patrick
<MPat1111@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>Ducatis are indeed a wonderful, although somewhat single purpose 
>machines. 

You got that right. I had forgotton the pain of riding in traffic until
you hit the open road where the Duc really performs. Ask me about 7-1/2 
degrees of steering lock and a clutch lever load that takes two men and a
small boy to operate.


 I'd submit, though, that a Harley XR750, produced in about 
>the same numbers as your Ducati, wouldn't bore you...
>

Not familiar with the XR750 and not sure what significance you imply by
the numbers produced.

Peter




From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:55 EST 1996
Article: 43900 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Asian lathe change gear bearings.
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:47:00 GMT
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Bruce Holder (holder@netrixgw.netrix.com) wrote:

:   My 1994 Boston Gear catalog describes metric spur gears as a special
: order item. They have a minimum order of 25 pieces for parts under 6"
: OD. I never worked up the courage to ask for a quote.

Ouch!  Hmm, there's a fastener place around here called "Mr. Metric".  Wonder
if he sells change gears, too?

I think I'll pass on the special orders.

:   Peter, I'll lend you my 25 tooth gear if you'll ream the bore out to
: a true 14 mm before you send it back.

Hmm, this leaves me in more or less the same position.  Got a 25/33 tooth
metric gear from the surplus shop, and I could easily turn off the 33
tooth portion, but I'll have to bore out the hole to fit my lathe.  Might
have to make up a special spindle, too, since a 25 tooth gear is a very
small gear for the standard spindle, and there may not be enough metal
to cope.  I think I better take a look at some other alternatives.....

Thanks,

: Bruce



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:56 EST 1996
Article: 43901 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:29:48 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 8
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I have a small quantity of Spaceship grade aluminum scrap for sale. 
Email me for prices.

Jim"Spaceranger" Harvey
wayout@hre.com
http://hre.com




From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:57 EST 1996
Article: 43902 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:49:03 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Mike:

No, it was Alberto from London who wrote the first article.

Just a single thought: 

"If my blessed American friends, 
can not get warm their you own products,
and the type of lifestyle and images they have created,
why should the rest of the world still buy them ?"

When I was a student I needed to roaring sound
of a Ducati, to fry my Saturday night fish.

Now, I am happy with the purring sound of my
Harley Davidson, and a pretty young wife 
just behind me.

Alberto







From hollen@axel.vigra.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:58 EST 1996
Article: 43903 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: silverplating on wax?
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 03:19:22 GMT
Organization: VisiCom Laboratories, Inc.
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>> ka0osk  writes:

Since you had nothing in your posting, I am assuming you are wondering
how to do silverplating on wax.  I seem to remember of a technique
that put a very thin layer of graphite on the surface of the was and
the graphite would be electrically conductive and you would end up
actually plating the graphite, not the wax.

dion

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
                                             http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:14:59 EST 1996
Article: 43904 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:27:11 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
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Neil Poersch wrote:
> 
> Can anyone tell me what type of metal are carburetors  made
> from?  Are they made of a zinc alloy or aluminum alloy or...?
> 
> I need to plug a existing hole for an idle adjusting screw in
> a carb body and then drill and tap it 3mm offset from the
> original hole.  I want to ensure the plug doesn't loosen up
> over time and am wondering if I can sweat-solder it or TIG
> weld it or epoxy it or whatever?
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
> 
> NeilUnless you are dealing with some off the wall carb, Aluminum is what 
you'll find to be the composition of your basic carburetors. Tig, Epoxy 
etc. will all work just fine.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:01 EST 1996
Article: 43905 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
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James L. Kehoe III D.O. wrote:
 
> I have an ENCO catalog and one of their lathes look good, spec. wise.
> This is the model 110-1352 which is on sale now at 20% off catalog
> price.
> 
> Anyone have any information on these lathes?  Must purchase within the
> week to get the pricing..  

> Thanks,
> 
> Larry

Or wait until next month..they run these sales constantly.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:02 EST 1996
Article: 43906 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: the key word...INTERNAL
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:00:26 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
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peter

do they make a bull nose center with a hole in it???
if there is no hole how do you cut an INTERNAL grove??
there would be some sort of an interference problem
between the bull nose and the groving tool

so it looks like a steady or follow rest is in order here

a little bacon grease might stop that pig from sqealing<w>


regards
andy  popky


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:04 EST 1996
Article: 43907 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe Parting (Cut-off) Tool
Date: 7 Dec 1996 05:52:17 GMT
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In article <32a7ce00.142716735@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) writes:

>It took me several reads to figure out what the heck you are doing but
>eventually the lights came on ...... seems like a lot more efford to
>do though.
>
>

Nope, actually easier than turning the compound and resetting it. Well for
me it is anyway, may not be for everyone. You can take much heavier cuts
too and get done in half the time.

Peter


From dide@dgsys.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:05 EST 1996
Article: 43908 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: 5 Dec 1996 23:34:39 GMT
Organization: Digital Gateway Systems
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: : Latin acronym for "It goes without saying"
: Nope.  You mean "Sine qua non".  I think.

    I think "It goes without saying," that the
 individual who started this thread was contemplating
 building an improved gyroscope, the toy many of will
 recall as the toy "sine qua non" of our childhood.
 I certainly enjoyed my gyroscope more than Latin class.
(Whatever happened to High School Latin Class anyway?
    My main problem with the gyros as I recall was that they
 didn't survive being dropped on the ground. The frames
 would get bent and then you couldn't pull very hard on
 the string without pulling the flywheel out. The other
 problem was that even in peak condition they didn't
 spin long enough.
   So I think an advanced model needs a stronger frame.
 I am not so sure that ball bearings are the way to go
 for the fly wheel. Maybe a hardened pointed flywheel
 shaft turning in little carbide "receivers." I haven't
 any idea how to make the carbide pieces. I like the
 human powered, non-electric, idea, but maybe it needs
 a separate geared up winder to really give it some starting
 speed.

 David Ide




From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:06 EST 1996
Article: 43910 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "PyroWare" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 14:05:55 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
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Sorry Jim, Spaceship grade aluminum won't hack it in my current project. 
I do need a good source for Time Machine grade aluminum ASAP, tho!  <g>

Kurt

> Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote in article <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com>...
> I have a small quantity of Spaceship grade aluminum scrap for sale. 
> Email me for prices.
> 
> Jim"Spaceranger" Harvey
> wayout@hre.com
> http://hre.com
> 
> 
> 


From nojunkmail@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:08 EST 1996
Article: 43911 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: nojunkmail@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Lathe recommendations?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:21:20 -0500
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brosenguy@aol.com wrote:

[question sniped, irrelevant]

> Please send e-mail direct to BRosenguy@AOL.com so I don't have to search
> this ng. Thanks.
> -Burt

Here we go again! 

Sorry to all the regulars in this news group but this is a special pet
peeve of mine.

BRosen, Sorry your too busy to read this newsgroup because if you did a
little reading of posts to this newsgroup you would find a wealth of
information on the subject your interested in, from some of the most
knowledgeable and friendly people on the net. If you did just a little
searching you would find hundreds of posts in deja news regarding your
question. 
   
If someone were to call me on the phone at the shop to ask a question
and then says "sorry I'm too busy to listen to your answer, please mail
me your response" I'm going to give as much effort to answering the
question as the person asking the question, which amounts to none.

As far as I'm concerned USENET is a participative forum not a black hole
which you drop a question into whenever your stuck and expect someone
else to do your research and apprenticeship for you. 

No disclaimers I am the company.

pht


From jdincau@cello.qnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:09 EST 1996
Article: 43912 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!207.155.38.10!news.qnet.com!usenet
From: Jim Dincau <jdincau@cello.qnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: 11 Dec 1996 20:58:41 GMT
Organization: Quantum Networking Solutions; USA; info@qnet.com
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <58n7a1$8qo@mandolin.qnet.com>
References: <32aee7ac.77130914@news.midwest.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lanc01-28.ca.qnet.com

jlkehoe3@ldd.net (James L. Kehoe III D.O.) wrote:
>
> I've been looking for a lathe in the 12-14"x40" range.  Spindle hole
> size is important and 1.5' is minimum.
> 
> I have an ENCO catalog and one of their lathes look good, spec. wise.
> This is the model 110-1352 which is on sale now at 20% off catalog
> price.
> 
> Anyone have any information on these lathes?  Must purchase within the
> week to get the pricing..  Tech support stated all metal gears except
> for one that acts as a protection to the gear train in case of over
> run and shear pin failure..  Will cut left hand threads.  Made
> mainland China.
> 
     Hi Larry, I have one and am satisfied with it. I use it to
support my hot rod and gun hobbys. I bought it six months ago and so
far have used it for brake disks, axles, barrel crowning (for which
I fabricated and threaded a spider to fit in the back of the spindle).
Next project is some mods to a 4 cyl eng. crank for the hot rod.
Only one problem so far, one of the oilers (ball with a spring)
behind it, on the cross slide fell in so I will some day have to fix
that. Other than that it's been neat. I served a 4 year tool and die
maker apprenticship at Lockheed in the 60s, I saw all kinds of machine
tools in various states of repair (or disrepair). While the China
made machine tools have some drawbacks the ones one my lathe seem to
be mostly cosmetic and it is certanly better than some of the worn out
junk I had to use back then.
      Retired, sipping a cup of coffee and looking at the rain clouds
in the foothils of the Antelope valley from my garage door.
Jim Dincau 


From is@infodial.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:10 EST 1996
Article: 43913 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!206.117.26.202!news.leonardo.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: is@infodial.net (Mark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Compressor for sale
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 16:29:34 -0800
Organization: Leonardo Internet
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <is-1112961630140001@204.140.220.27>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 204.140.220.27

Craftsman Air Compressor
L.A. area

20 Gal. tank
2hp
11.7 cfm
delivery 9cfm at 90psi
220v
25ft. hose

250$ obo

Call or e-mail
Mark

(818) 787-2768


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:11 EST 1996
Article: 43914 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip39.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 01:02:15 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <felice.368.32AF5997@pioneer.net>
References: <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net>
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In article <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net> creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) writes:

>Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
>chucks, tooling?

>Jim Waggener
Jim, 
In "Metalworking for Craftsmen" by Oppi Untracht (which, knowing you do 
jewelry and such is a book you should have) there is a step by step 
photosequence and text that pretty much explains the basics.



From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:15:13 EST 1996
Article: 43915 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.sgi.com!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!nrchh45.rich.nt.com!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!kone!news.ccs.queensu.ca!korolukm.rmc.ca!user
From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Applying Lacquer to Polished Brass
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 16:47:22 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <koroluk-o-1112961647220001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
References: <55lkm8$g74@scramble.lm.com> <584v90$orm@nw101.infi.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dcsnt.rmc.ca

In article <584v90$orm@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) wrote:

> fsully@telerama.lm.com wrote:
> 
> >I am encountering an intermitent problem with "milking"
> >when applying lacquer to polished brass.
> 
> >I have already taken humidity into account and have experimented
> >with different methods and lacquers with no consistent result.
> 
> >Does anyone have a good technique to share that works consistently?
> 
> 
> >thank you for your help
> 
> 
> >Chris Sully
> 
> >fsully@telerama.lm.com
> 
> Chris,
> 
> I did this for years. The best lacquer I found was made by
> Sherwin-Williams. Most important is that your brass is clean of
> buffing compounds. I usually wiped down the brass with thinner before
> lacquering. .  For a dip use a 50/50 lac to thinner ratio, for a spray
> make it a 3/4 thinner to 1/4 lac. . Sherwin-Williams makes a great
> metal lacquer. The lac stock number is T87-313 and thinner is
> R7k22......great product, try it.
> 
> regards,
> 
> Jim Waggener

I went looking for this product last night. No luck finding a dealer that
carries Sherwin Williams, yet. 

I have been  a clear lacquer aerosol by Krylon. It works reasonably well,
but I can't help think there must be something better out there.

During my search last night I came across a product called CLear made by
Tremco. It is specifically labelled as containing anti-oxidants and
recommended for use on polished brass, copper, bronze, aluminum, chrome,
and steel. The product seems to be marketed for coating of polished brass
mailboxes, house numbers etc. I am going to give it a try to see if it
performs well. I have coated a small part made of brass by dipping last
night. It might need thinning for a less bulky coating.

Anyone else have any suggestions.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
                   Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 5L0
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:14 EST 1996
Article: 43916 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinist squares-who sells good but cheap?.
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:19:24 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <01bbe7d1$50a21040$ea1f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
References: <5877q2$i64@ionews.ionet.net>
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Excuse me, but why do you need .001 accuracy for woodworking? Humidity will
induce changes > .001 on a given day, unless you're fortunate enough to be
working in a climate-controlled environment. Just wondering. Les Whitaker

E.M.Bortmes <gene@ionet.net> wrote in article
<5877q2$i64@ionews.ionet.net>...
> I need a good 12 inch machinist square for use in my woodworking 
> projects.  IF accurate to 0.001 inch in the 12, that would be great.  
> Will the ones made in India or China be that accurate, and at an 
> inexpensive price.  Would Enco have such, or if not, who should I 
> contact?  Appreciate help.
> 
> 


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:16 EST 1996
Article: 43917 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 01:55:53 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <58nooq$ebs@nw101.infi.net>
References: <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net> <58nhgr$2ua@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>>Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
>>chucks, tooling?
>>
>>Jim Waggener
>>
>Lindsay Publishing has some good books on the subject. Cheers Bob

Thanks for the tip Bob.
I was kinda looking for general info from the ng.



From dberry@sure.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:18 EST 1996
Article: 43918 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sure.net!not-for-mail
From: dberry@sure.net (David W Berryhill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Logan lathe for sale (L.A. area)
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:11:56 GMT
Organization: SureNet Corp.
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Logan lathe for sale - L.A. area (Redondo Beach).  12 x 36, wired for 
110v, recently rebuilt.  Has 3 & 4 jaw chucks, vari-belt drive, KDK tool 
holder with several extra, steady rest, coolant system, $2,000.00.  Send 
e-mail.



From semeiks2@albany.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:19 EST 1996
Article: 43919 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news.albany.net!news
From: semeiks2@albany.net (Randall Semeiks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Model Engines
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:07:57 GMT
Organization: AlbanyNet - E-mail info@albany.net
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <58npkd$3nu@lori.albany.net>
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Hello,

I was wondering if anyone has any plans to make working model engines,
sterling, steam, gas..perferably gas engines, but others as well.
Please post here if you have plans or know where i can get some
online..

Thanks



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:20 EST 1996
Article: 43920 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mindspring!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:37:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <19961212023700.VAA15492@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <19961210033000.WAA03739@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com
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  I have had not had a significant increase in connection problems. I use
the 800 number and sometimes it takes two or three tries to get through
but thats not too abnormal. What I have had the past few days is my
personal filing cabinet went down with everything in it. What a pain. The
really bad thing was that I had spent a good bit of time writing up
several replies just before it went down. 


   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:22 EST 1996
Article: 43921 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:40:33 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <01bbe7d4$45ffdde0$ea1f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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Jim, you can get an old reprint from Lindsay Lindsey (?) press. Basically,
all you need is a sturdy tool-rest, the proper shaped tool for the job, and
a pre-carved form into which you spin the metal. Never tried it, was gonna
do it after I retired, but heck, I'm retired. Oh, the tool is hand-held and
leverage is what makes it do its trick. Les Whitaker

Jim Waggener <creativ@norfolk.infi.net> wrote in article
<58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net>...
> Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
> chucks, tooling?
> 
> Jim Waggener
> 
> 


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:23 EST 1996
Article: 43922 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 01:22:15 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32af5b39.12417303@news.sprynet.com>
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On Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:37:46 -0800, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>I use Agent .... (not Free Agent) ... and as stated above it ONLY
>works for newsgroups. With email you can set up filing filters so you
>could create a folder called 'junk' and have the unwanted email
>direted that way but you still end up receiving it and you will need
>to delete the stuff manually.

Sorry about that, Chief!  And I "knew" you were using Agent, just
forgot that it doesn't actually "kill" e-mail, but it can junk them,
as you say.  Maybe they'll have this in Agent v1.0.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From gfritz4134@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:24 EST 1996
Article: 43923 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!newstf02.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gfritz4134@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: 13 Dec 1996 14:51:06 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 21
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In article <32af8f42.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>But, J & L Industrial
>>	Supply has a December sale going with several nice items.
>>	They have a Chinese 8" Master Precision Level, One division =
>>	.0005" / 10", which is more sensitive than the Soviet one I've
got.
>>	Has a hand scraped base, with vee for placing on round surfaces,
>>	cross vial, wooden case, $79.95, order # IPL-22008H. 
>>	

Hmmm... Sounds like a great Christmas gift for the wife... Boy will she be
surprised!  

(I missed the original post) -- The only problem is I can't find a listing
for J & L Industrial in either the FAQ or Thomas Register -- anybody have
an order phone number for those folks?

-- Garry



From hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil Tue Dec 17 14:15:25 EST 1996
Article: 43924 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!cs.umd.edu!coopnews.coop.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-12.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!night.primate.wisc.edu!nntp!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!DTNET43-137.dt.navy.mil!hanrahan
From: hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:15:49 GMT
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <hanrahan.310.32B01395@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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In article <19961205015501.UAA15297@ladder01.news.aol.com> lwc1220@aol.com 
writes:

>  They do make a 1/4-20 grease zert. We have a box of them at the shop. We
>got ours from the local NAPA auto parts but you should be able to find
>them at any good hardware or parts store.

I called my local NAPA auto parts store, used the phone, the thing without a 
keyboard :-) They said they did not have them, and their book did not list the 
1/4-20. Must be a different level of store...

I also checked McMaster Carr, my local ACE hardware, no luck so far.

--------------------------------------------------------------
  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA



From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:27 EST 1996
Article: 43925 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cheap imported--
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:45:44 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 3
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NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.0.31.234
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

And another Gen X'er misspells his ferbile opinions for the world to see.
Shheesh. Les Whitaker



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:15:28 EST 1996
Article: 43926 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 05:56:22 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Message-ID: <58qr66$n0@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Tom Kruesel (cmu320@freenet.mb.ca) wrote:
: Please enlighten me:  What exactly is the process of "flame spraying" 
: involve?  I've seen it mentioned lots, but never explained.

: On 7 Nov 1996, Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
: > Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
: > : I have read several posts related to regrinding a lathe bed to remove
: > : wear.  My question is, is there some way to build it back up so that
: > : the side effects don't become so bothersome?  
: > 
: > : For example, could one be flame sprayed to build it back up the few
: > : thousands it needs and then regound back to stock or close enough
: > : dimensions?
: > 
: > I've certainly heard of people diong this.  You get a VERY hard bed, too.
: > 

Flame spraying is a metal treatment process.  Any metal treatment shop
will have heard of it, although not all shops have the equipment to do
it.  A flame, similar to an Oxy-Acetylene flame is used, but a fine dust
of metal and or abrasive particles are introduced into the flame.  The
flame heats the base metal, and the particles may or may not melt, but
adhere to the base metal, as the force of the flame drives the particles
onto the surface of the metal.  'Hard Cladding' and many other tradenames
for hardened machine tool beds are done this way at the factory, not to
repair worn spots, but to harden the surface of the ways with a different
metal alloy.  The process can definitely build up surfaces, however, and
is often used to repair worn shafts, rollers, blades and similar parts.
It is also used to make abrasive surfaces on plain metal parts.

					Jon



From barronr@mail.erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:30 EST 1996
Article: 43927 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news
From: Reginald barron <barronr@mail.erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sherline Mods
Date: 13 Dec 1996 15:44:06 GMT
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <58rtk6$4b3@boursy.news.erols.com>
References: <58pl4p$1dt@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:
>Hi everyone.
>
>A while back someone posted a referece to some Sherline lathe mods.
>These mods rigidly attached the headstock to the bed and made the
>tailstock adjustable.  (I hope they retained the ability to disable it
>so that I can rotate the headstock to turn a taper)
>
>I thought I saved this information but I cant seem to find it. 
>Does anyone else know where I can find it? 
>
>I did find an article about some mods someone made to a mill using
>a headstock spacer, which may be helpful.
>
>Thanks
>chuck sherwood
>-- 
>--
>Chuck Sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com

This "might" be what you are looking for:
The September 1975 issue of Model Railroader had an
article by Robert Higgins in which he described 
"improvements" to the Sherline.  For example, he
trued up the three jaw chuck, adjusted the tailstock
alignment, adjusted the headstock "dead on" and drilled,
reamed for taper pins to get it repeatable.
Also described were nylon way gibs, a rocker toolpost,
fitting a boring head, and micrometer stops.  Kalmbach publishes
MR and they have a web page, they also have a photo copy
service for back articles.  Their home page is:

http://www.kalmbach.com/mr/modelrailroader.html

Their E-mail is: customerservice@kalmbach.com

There have been numerous articles by Rudy Kouhoupt in 
HSM that describe valuable attachements that will work
on Sherlines, Unimats, and other small machines.  See
his Shop Wisdom books (Vol 1 and 2) published by Village 
Press.  Their address/phone number should be is the FAQ.

Reg Barron (still waiting for my copy ov Vol 2)




From jriser@azstarnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:32 EST 1996
Article: 43928 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!news.azstarnet.com!usr5ip24.azstarnet.com!user
From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 13 Dec 1996 02:41:02 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: usr5ip33.azstarnet.com

In article <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:

> Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
> 
> >I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
> >asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
> >have for sale.
> >I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
> >Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
> >of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.
> 
> >Jim "Ashamed of hisself" Harvey
> >joker!@hre.com
> >http://hre.com
> 
Now you tell us.  I've spent the last few days (18 hour days - I might
add!) drawing up the plans for my very own personal spaceship.  It was to
be my only Christmas present to myself.  Well, thanks for ruining my
holiday ;-)
Jim

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:34 EST 1996
Article: 43929 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!juniper.cis.uab.edu!news.lsu.edu!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!mindspring!uunet!in3.uu.net!199.170.183.55!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:53:13 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <32B0C519.2298@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32aee7ac.77130914@news.midwest.net> <32af8f52.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> jlkehoe3@ldd.net (James L. Kehoe III D.O.) wrote:

I bought the 13x36 gearhead last year for delivery two months later
in order to get in on the sale price.  They started to get a bit 
uptight when I didn't want to take delivery (although it was paid for)
for a couple of months.  I had made that arrangement at the time of
purchase.  The darn thing was still on sale 6  months later......

> A suggestion, don't be stampeded by a sale price expiration
> date.  There will be another one, soon.  Make sure it is
> what you want.
> 
> There is no "right" price for the "wrong" product.
> 
> Fitch

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:36 EST 1996
Article: 43930 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!juniper.cis.uab.edu!news.lsu.edu!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!204.96.36.2!wizard.pn.com!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:54:41 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B0C571.4E14@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32aee7ac.77130914@news.midwest.net> <32af8f52.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> jlkehoe3@ldd.net (James L. Kehoe III D.O.) wrote:
> 
Excuse my last post - it was a 12x36

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:37 EST 1996
Article: 43931 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:03:02 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32af669d.1552782@netnews.worldnet.att.net>
References: <19961211034800.WAA09828@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

I posted a reply to this from work, but couldn't find it from home.
I'm not sure the work ones are getting through.

Anyway,  my father in law used to work in a natural gas compressor
plant.  They use enourmous internal combustion engines that burn the
natural gas they pump to boost the pressure in the main transmission
lines.  These engines are big!  3 foot cylinders that a man can crawl
through.  I have an intake valve from one.  It stands about 30" high,
weighs 80 lbs and has a face 10" across.  

They used to have very large wrenches (needed chain falls).

I would suggest that you call your local natural gas pipeline company
and see if they have anything you can borrow.

Note:  Any of you jokers out there thinking of making one of these
engines into a chainsaw, forget it.

Roger

On 11 Dec 1996 03:48:33 GMT, todengine@aol.com wrote:

>I am dismantling a 200 ton cross compound steam engine to move to a
>museum.  I need a 3 1/8" socket to remove six bolts that are located in a
>most inaccessible place.  Anyone have one for sale or one that I might
>borrow.
>
>Rick Rowlands
>Tod Engine Project



From dholly@erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:39 EST 1996
Article: 43932 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!38.8.16.2!psinntp!psinntp!pubxfer.news.psi.net!usenet
From: "David A. Holly" <dholly@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 13 Dec 96 15:43:03 GMT
Organization: PROVENDA Biometrics Inc.
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com>
References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: gatekeeper.astramerck.com
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

I too am interested in air rifles and have been toying with the idea of
building a bellows type rifle.  I read, in Beeman's Airgun Digest, that
some of the old bellows type air rifles were powerful enough to hunt elk
with.  I think that a modern version of a bellows gun, with the bellows in
the butt stock, would prove to be very powerful.  

The bellows, if large enough, could be as fast or faster than a spring
piston type gun because the bellows would only need to be about .5 to 1
inch apart.

What to you think??????
 


From alanh@widomaker.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:40 EST 1996
Article: 43933 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!dciteleport.com!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in3.uu.net!207.155.38.10!news.qnet.com!news.widomaker.com!not-for-mail
From: alanh@widomaker.com (Alan Horowitz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 21:28:01 -0500
Organization: Widomaker Public Access Internet (804)221-8070
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <58nqjh$jto@wilma.widomaker.com>
References: <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com> <19961209211500.QAA22776@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wilma.widomaker.com


Peter,

It might be worth your while to buy somewhat more than a $1.00 hose.
Epoxy in your engine ain't gonna be funny.


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:42 EST 1996
Article: 43934 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!donahue
From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 13:23:35 -0700
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 109
Message-ID: <donahue-1112961323350001@snews.zippo.com>
References: <32ac1052.0@mothra.westworld.com> <19961209211600.QAA22784@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ae43b6.0@mothra.westworld.com>
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b7

In article <32ae43b6.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:

> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >In article <32ac1052.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
> >Williams) writes:
> 
> >>Apple didn't recognize the Intel machines as serious
> >>competition for their better idea.  That is in short the
> >>story of Apples reduction to a vestigial presence in the
> >>desktop computer market.  I will be surprised if they stay
> >>at all with out making such big changes you won't recognize
> >>them as "Apple" anymore.
> >>
> >>It is a perfect example of a company that believed they had
> >>a better mousetrap ... so good it was immune to competition.
> >>It wasn't.
> >>
> >>
> 
> >Keep your eye on Sun (Microstation fame) eating apples in the near future.
> 
> >Peter
> 
> Wouldn't surprise me at all.  They make some good stuff.
> Although SUN has the honor of sending me the biggest box of
> errata I've ever seen for a new set of manuals - it was like
> two reams of paper two sided!
> 
> Talk about "work-in-progress".  But good workstations.  And
> anyway, real Unix folks don't need no stinking manuals, and
> type in the root while talking on the phone, etc.  I can
> barely spell Unix.  (Thats uNiX Andy).
> 

Peter, Andy,

Did I stumble into alt.flame.os.war? Well since You started it...
I speak from experience on all three platforms. I currently own a Sun
Sparc, a pentium75 and Power Macintosh. The Sun is WAY too expensive to
upgrade and with all the system overhead is not all that fast and has an
incredibly steep learning curve with stacks of manuals that ultimately
tell you to "consult your system administrator². Gee that's me. Anybody
want to buy it real cheap! The pentium (and all wintel stuff) requires you
to learn a lot about the geekdom of dos and interrupts and
incompatibilities ad-nauseum. Another steep learning curve just to become
functional and the true cost of configuring it to be a full featured
machine are much higher than the out of the box cost of a Mac. But the
real cost is reduced productivity. Much like buying a cheap machine tool,
it's the cost of tooling and lost productivity, that's really significant.
My powermac is joy to use with software and hardware that lets you get
work done without the bull. Your assessment of the state of the platform
is based on cursory information and not accurate or up to date.
BTW it's Sun Microsystems, Microstation is from Bentley and it runs great
on my Mac.
>
>I also have had considerable experience with computers - I
>once (1989) managed the  design and installation of a
>network for 1,000 users.   Since I have gone back to
>electrical and systems engineering (thank goodness some one
>feeds the engineers).  

>When we put in that network we had a choice of using MACs or
>PCs.  We could get 500 PCs on line with software for about
>the price of getting 250 MACs on line with software.
>
Yeah, if all your doing is text editing and bookkeeping. If memory serves,
Macs from that era had (still do) built-in: Ethernet, full color support
with on the fly resolution and bit-depth switching, 16 bit audio, WYSIWYG
font and formatting,
Postscript (my service bureau still hates the PC crowd who come in with
their Word Docs and wonder why an image-setter won't handle them properly)
support, SCCI, multiple monitor support, "plug and play" everything, a
better interface than Sun's OpenLook (wintel stuff from that era was a
command line) . I could run-on more than that sentence but you get the
idea.

With PC's there is the administration and training and needless complexity
when performing simple tasks. Can you say drag and drop. 

I currently have: 2 monitors, 2 internal HD's, 2 external removable HDs,
CD-rom, postscript laser, ink jet, pen plotter, scanner with OCR that
works, digital camera, graphics tablet, cad tablet, fax/modem, and
hundreds of applications installed (several running in the background as I
type this) and I installed all of it without any help from tech-support
and only need the manuals for the more esoteric aspects of actually USING
the applications.

Apple may have it's faults and problems, but they are making important
progress that people on the outside aren't aware of and aren't likely to
uncover in PC-Week. I get stuff done on my Mac under deadline pressure,
and I haven't got time for tech-support. Merely copying the look of
Mercedes does not make a Granada perform like one. I'm so glad I bought
the Southbend instead of the "fill in your idea of a cheap imitation"!

FYI my background is in Electrical Engineering and Computer Science but
now I'm an Industrial Designer and specialize in human interface design.

My apologies for the rant but misconceptions are rampant and every now and
then I need to vent. I don't mean to discount the capabilities of PC's as
they are great machines for many things but don't assume market share and
herd instinct to be the only measure of success; particularly when
powerful unseen forces are presenting statistics designed to manipulate
rather than inform. The common perception is rarely accurate nor is the
lowest common denominator the best solution for an individual need. 

BTW the next time one of those nasty virii infects your PC seek out a Mac
to format clean floppies. I have a friend who admins a large PC network
and told me that he keeps an old Mac around just for the purpose.


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:15:43 EST 1996
Article: 43935 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 20:37:04 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <32AF7DE0.70B3@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------298B42C27DD
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Les Bartel wrote:
> 
> Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
> inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
> bits are sized in fractions of an inch.

Got a real nice Starrett wall chart of tap drill sizes and decimal
equivalents (doesn't have meteric) for $3.25 from Wholesale Tool
(page 410)  (1-800-521-3420)


-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------298B42C27DD
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="WHLSLTOOL.txt"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="WHLSLTOOL.txt"


Wholesale Tool

Industrial supplies


Wholesale Tool
P.O. Box 68
Warren MI  48089-0068

Phone: 1-800-521-3420
       1-810-754-9270

FAX:   1-800-521-3661
       1-810-754-8652  
--------------298B42C27DD--



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:45 EST 1996
Article: 43936 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Generators, motors as generators
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:37:38 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 38
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <19961211000200.TAA03093@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
teamhail@aol.com writes:

>I'm thinking about building my own gas powered generator.  Can surplus
>motors be used as generators?  Or, do I need to buy a "real" one.  Does
>Northern Hydraulics carry genearators less motors?  I'm interested in
both
>single and 3 phase power.  I'm interested in supplying power for remote
>locations, and for being able to power small tools outa my car.
>
>The second part of this question could also be, does anyone have plans,
or
>know of plans for engines to provide practical power?  I love the model
>engines, but it would also be nice to make some stuff that could be put
to
>use.  I figure 5-10 hp would be the range I'd be looking at.  A steam
>engine with a wood burning boiler would be real neat for a remote cabin. 
>Just a thought
>
>Thanks,
>
>

 Surplus Center has belt driven generators but they don't have three phase
capability. Im not sure where to find three phase generators unless you
happen across one that has the engine blown up. The phone number for
Surplus Center is 1-800-488-3407.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:47 EST 1996
Article: 43937 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:02:56 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <58o05g$ovr@news.proaxis.com>
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Prices are skyrocketing, at least here.... a 24" bar folder (old) went for $500 at 
an auction last week. (I know, because I bought it.) An old finger brake, 16 ga. 
went for $2300. Everybody's busy & has money to burn.

Regards, Mark



From koalmnr@m2.sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:49 EST 1996
Article: 43938 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koalmnr@m2.sprynet.com (M. C. (Mike) Albrecht)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: Density of metals?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:10:47 GMT
Organization: MRDI
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References: <58n8p8$v8i@news-feed3.globalnet.co.uk>
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In article <58n8p8$v8i@news-feed3.globalnet.co.uk>, 
patm@globalnet.co.uk says...
>
>Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
>commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
>density of ABS plastic?
>
>Thanks in advance,
> -- Pat Missin
>
>patm@globalnet.co.uk
>
For ABS use 1.3 
-- 
M.C. (Mike) Albrecht
koalmnr@sprynet.com
KoalMnr@aol.com
http://www.hooked.net/users/koalmnr
EARTH FIRST!
We will mine the rest of the planets later!



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:50 EST 1996
Article: 43939 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B0AD5F.2C98744D@northnet.org>, Steve Austin
<saustin@northnet.org> writes:

>Got a surface plate and height gage?  How about a lapping plate?
>Once the pieces are machined to length you can work the ends on a
>piece of sandpaper laid on some flat surface.  By checking on the
>surface plate you should be able to get them within a few tenths.
>The lapping plate should finish them as close as you can measure.
>S

Steve, thanks for the suggestions but I suspect the hand finish on
sandpaper would affect the perpindicularity (is there such a word) and
just exacerbate the problem.

As you have no doubt read by now from another post the solution was too
easy. I missed it completely until it was pointed out *twice* to me.
Sometimes I am just *too* thick! <g>

Peter
Who'se forehead continues to slope further back from constant slapping.


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:51 EST 1996
Article: 43940 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:41:40 -0800
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32ADAEE4.28F7@scruznet.com>
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To: geoff beneze <geoffben@primenet.com>

geoff beneze wrote:
> 
> In article <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
> > machining plastics.

> It might help if you gave us just a BIT more information, "machining
> plastics" covers one hell of a lot of ground. I'm certain most of us
> are/would be more than willing to help, if ONLY we had some idea of what
> you're asking. These kind of "how high is up?" questions are just a bit
> much to handle.

Geoff, I agree with you re: lack of specific requirements. However, I
do  "machine plastics", specifically cast acrylic and delrin. I machine
a domed face on 1-3/4" dia bar stock in the lathe with a radius cutter
using a spray mist coolant. To protect myself from the fumes given off
by the acrylic, I made a box to fit around the collet with a fume
extractor pulling the fumes to the outside of the building. Prior to
doing this, I would get a massive headache that would last into the next
day.
I run the lathe at 1200 rpm and take about 1/8" cuts with carbide insert
tooling (the same tools that I use for steel). Delrin machines like
butter. The acrylic will chip if taking too much of a cut.
If you want to see the finished product, it is at my website, under
"consumables".

Lee Marshall
Bonny Doon Engineering     http://www.bonnydoonengineering.com


From lmarshal@scruznet.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:52 EST 1996
Article: 43941 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lee Marshall <lmarshal@scruznet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:48:13 -0800
Organization: Bonny Doon Engineering, Inc.
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To: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>

Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> I have several projects in mind which involve milling the entire surface
> of a piece of steel. I can shift clamps around ok, but I'm wondering if
> there is a better approach.
> 
A method that you might try is to heat a larger piece of material that
can be secured to the table. Melt tooling wax on this piece and place
the warmed part to be machined in the wax puddle. This is a standard
method for grinding ceramics. The nice feature about this method is that
there is no forces applied to the part from the clamping itself. Be
cautious in how big a bite that you take in the machining. It is also
possible to increase the clamping area by placing flat bars against the
sides of the part with these also being held by the wax.
Lee Marshall
Bonny Doon Engineering     http://www.bonnydoonengineering.com


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:53 EST 1996
Article: 43942 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:34 GMT
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cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:


>	But, J & L Industrial
>	Supply has a December sale going with several nice items.
>	They have a Chinese 8" Master Precision Level, One division =
>	.0005" / 10", which is more sensitive than the Soviet one I've got.
>	Has a hand scraped base, with vee for placing on round surfaces,
>	cross vial, wooden case, $79.95, order # IPL-22008H. 
>	
>Mine arrived yesterday. It's not Chinese, but Polish. It's lovely. The
>wooden case could fit more tightly, but other than that I have nothing
>to complain about - especially at this price! I'd rate it 95% as nice as
>the Starret...

You are going to have some fun with that level.  I've spent
several hours moving things on my machines to see what
happens.  You will see it move, maybe even off scale when
you lean your body weight on the corner of a wooden bench.

After you set them on something, they take a while to settle
out - I usually make myself wait a minute before taking a
"reading" to be sure it is done settling.  The bubble moves
rather slowely the last little bit..

You might consider using a less sensitive level to get the
Master level in range.  Things have to be quite close or the
bubble will be hard against one end of the vile or another.

It was an excellent lesson in what is "rigid", and what
isn't.

Enjoy
Fitch




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:55 EST 1996
Article: 43943 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: the key word...INTERNAL
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:39 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

<snipped disinformation>

>Gee Andy, and I thought you knew *everything*.

>Peter
>PS I made all that up , cos I missed the magic word "internal" in the
>original post. <bg>

Just for a microsecond, well, maybe a millisecond, you had
me going.  <BG>  That was great.  By the time I got to the
tube half full of oil and the paradox of the stationary slot
I was almost sorry it wasn't real!

Fitch
Who could probably be persuaded there was a good spagetti
crop this year and prices will be lower so stock up ...



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:56 EST 1996
Article: 43944 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:36 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 38
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randyr@ibm.net wrote:

>In <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com>, Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>>rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> How do you keep your welding rods dry?
>>> 
>>> Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Ron Norris
>>they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing

>If you only have a few (10lbs or less) Northern sells the plastic sealed 
>containers for under $10.	

>For larger collection, I used an army surplus ammo can (the tall 50 caliber kind)
>and put pvc tubes in it. This divides the rod types up and seals shut. This tall
>ammo can is just long enough for welding rods. Check army/navy store.
>Holds about 50lbs of rods.
>Randy Ray
>randyr@ibm.net

I've seen surplus ammo and other holders in the catalogs and
wondered if they were just bigenough or just to small.
Would you be able to post the outside dimensions of this
box?  I've seen some 20mm ones that looked about the right
size.  The catalogs all use outside dimensions I think.  But
I don't know for sure.  I have thought this would work
really well for most of the 60xx and some of the 70xx
serises, but not 7018, but didn't want to order one and find
out it was "just" to small.

Fitch

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:57 EST 1996
Article: 43945 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Generators, motors as generators
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:43 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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teamhail@aol.com wrote:

>I'm thinking about building my own gas powered generator.  Can surplus
>motors be used as generators?  Or, do I need to buy a "real" one.  Does
>Northern Hydraulics carry genearators less motors?  

Yes, some as large as 10KW.  All that I've seen in their
catalog were single phase.  So does Surplus Center.

<snip>

Fitch




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:15:59 EST 1996
Article: 43946 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:41 GMT
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donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:

>I just aquired a Southbend 9" model "B" and need a thread dial and
>manuals. I'm also interested if anybody has opinions on toolpost options,
>collet setups and  mailorder suppliers (or?) to obtain them. Are metric
>changegears available or instructions for making them (I have a small mill
>but no dividing head yet)? Thanks for considering my request and replies
>via posting or email are much appreciated.

>donahue@continet.com

There was a posting earlier today from a person who had an
extra  thread dial for a 9" SB.

If you are interested in making some of your own accessories
>from  castings, you might try Metal Lathe Accessories. Box
88, Pine Grove Mills PA  16868.  Send Andy who "is" the
business $1.00, he will send you a catolog.  His castings
are excellent.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:00 EST 1996
Article: 43947 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: OPINION - Clausing 10 inch lathe
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:49 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan) wrote:

>I am looking at buying a Clausing gear head lathe, model 1030 (10 inch swing, 
>30 inch between centers). Speed range is 40 to 2240 rpm, cam lock spindle, 
>taper attachment, inch and metric threading capability (manuall switch a gear 
>between the spindle and quick change). The only tooling is a 3 jaw chuck and a 
>dog driver plate for the cam lock spindle. On a scale of poor, fair, good, 
>very good, excellent; I would rate it very good.

>Any opinions on what it is worth? Comments on this model lathe in general?

>Thanks in advance.

>--------------------------------------------------------------
>  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
>  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA

It sounds like a nice lathe.  Nice rpm range.  Taper
attachment can be handy on those rare occasions  when you
need one.  I know nothing about them specifically.  I do
have two questions out of curiosity if you or someone else
happens to know the answers - how much does it weigh?  is it
a bench lathe or one that stands on the floor on cast iron
pedestals?

Thanks
Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:01 EST 1996
Article: 43948 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a source for 'T-Slots' for welding fixture
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:44 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu (DEMPSEY) wrote:

>Hello...
>	I'm building an adjustable welding fixture, and am looking for some
>(preferrably steel) T-slots to recess into the fixture and provide hold down
>points for my work holders.  I've seen versions in aluminum in many woodworking
>jigs, but cannot even find a source for these extrusions.
>	Any hints or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
>Thank you in advance,
>	-Brian

>-- 
>DEMPSEY,BRIAN DAVID
>Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
>uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ch89abe
>Internet: ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu

I wouldn't recommend aluminum, would melt to easy.  I'm not
sure what you would be recessing the "T" slots into.  You
could just build the table top of steel panels with slots
between them.  My favorite welding table, one that I had
access to as a kid, was just an open frame with a few sturdy
angle irons across it.  Today, I usually make one by forming
a triangle of heavy angle and supporting it at the corners.
the triangle is by definition a plane so things tend to come
out flatter than they would otherwise.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:02 EST 1996
Article: 43949 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:55:51 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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jlkehoe3@ldd.net (James L. Kehoe III D.O.) wrote:

>I've been looking for a lathe in the 12-14"x40" range.  Spindle hole
>size is important and 1.5' is minimum.

>I have an ENCO catalog and one of their lathes look good, spec. wise.
>This is the model 110-1352 which is on sale now at 20% off catalog
>price.

>Anyone have any information on these lathes?  Must purchase within the
>week to get the pricing..  Tech support stated all metal gears except
>for one that acts as a protection to the gear train in case of over
>run and shear pin failure..  Will cut left hand threads.  Made
>mainland China.

>Thanks,

>Larry
>James L. Kehoe
>Ste. Genevieve, Mo.
>E-MAIL jlkehoe3@ldd.net

A suggestion, don't be stampeded by a sale price expiration
date.  There will be another one, soon.  Make sure it is
what you want.

There is no "right" price for the "wrong" product.

Fitch



From Kjones@interlynx.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:03 EST 1996
Article: 43950 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Jones <Kjones@interlynx.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.energy.renewable,sci.energy
Subject: Re: SI stuff
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:43:24 -0800
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Neil Cordwell wrote:
> 
> <Kjones@interlynx.net> wrote:
> 
> > >BTU? Lbs? F? PSI?
> > >This is all ABACADABRA to me.
> > >Try J, kg, K, N/m^2. Those are the SI Units.
> > >
> > >arie veltman
> >
> > Ok,  4.2 Kjoules required to raise 1 Kg water 1 deg C at approx 101.3 Kpa
> >
> > In North America, 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation
> >uses Btu's, Lbs, deg F
> In Europe 99.5% of the "real world" involved with steam generation uses
> SI units
> 
> Neil
> 

Fine, but the gentleman I was replying to was from North America, used
BTU's, deg F, etc in his question, so I replied in same.
  I didn't know I was required to convert and list all values in every
system (grin)

K. Jones


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:06 EST 1996
Article: 43951 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!gatech!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!tank.news.pipex.net!pipex!btnet!netcom.net.uk!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: STUPID INCORRECT LIST
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 21:26:04 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32AF6D3C.5ED3@ix.netcom.com>
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To: bohigas@aol.com

if you are going to post this stupid list get it RIGHT at least!!!!

(1) is there a new company called BOING??
(2) MARTIN is now LOCKHEED MARTIN
(3) PRATT & WHITNEY is on the balls of there ass
(4) there is no & between PERKIN ELMER
(5) who cares
(6) its stupid

ap


From jingham@machinists-exchange.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:07 EST 1996
Article: 43952 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jingham@machinists-exchange.com (John Ingham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: musical lathe
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:42:26 GMT
Organization: Value Net Internetwork Services Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32b19783.11723555@news.value.net>
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Those country dentists are the best..... 

Square drills and round mallets....good luck.

On Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:08:20 -0500, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Abrasha wrote:
>
>> Built in cassette recorder?!?  Wow, I'm impressed.  If you have the complete works of
>> Frank Zappa with it also, I'll take it. ;-)
>> 
>> Abrasha
>> http://www.abrasha.com
>
>
>yes we have the complete set, but i am going
>to Montana to have some dental work done
>call me after the holidays
>i will put a hold on it for you
>
>regards
>ap



From thomas0297@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:09 EST 1996
Article: 43953 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  Sheldon Lathe - Help
Date: 12 Dec 1996 05:33:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

try acme tech group  Fremont Ohio       419 334 8971


From gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca Tue Dec 17 14:16:11 EST 1996
Article: 43954 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mindspring!uunet!in2.uu.net!204.191.160.4!van-bc!news.mindlink.net!nntp.portal.ca!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.ucalgary.ca!acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca!gekeays
From: gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca (Gloria Edith Keays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Steam logging book
Date: 12 Dec 1996 03:56:03 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I was flicking through the HSM and Live Steam magazine, when I
came across this book being advertised (steam logging, I think,
was the title).  I was wondering if anybody had seen this book,
or read any reviews on it.  Being a Forest Engineer this is sorta
interesting to me, especially coupled with an interest (as yet
unattacked) in metal work...

Any comments on the book would be appreciated.

Thanks

rod (on his wife's account) 



From rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:16:12 EST 1996
Article: 43955 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Richard Sewell")
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Message-ID: <E2D35M.Ho5@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
References: <19961213002500.TAA20839@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 16:58:33 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol32
Lines: 8

> For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
> with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that 
> can
> withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. 

I've seen 'machinable ceramics' for sale - at frightening prices, but I 
think they're what you want. Alternatively, would it be possible to make 
the right shape out of wet porcelain & fire it ?


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:14 EST 1996
Article: 43956 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:47:52 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32af8d74.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:



>Yeah, that's where I started Fitch, I managed about 0.0015 but it was
>enough to load the lead screw slightly. That 0.0015 at the bolt circle
>diameter of 4-1/4 (I think without going an measuring) translated into a
>significant angular displacement. May have to pay the money for those
>couplings yet.

>Peter

OK, I understand.  You are talking about the coupling
between your 1125 in-oz motors and the mill leadscrews.  The
couplings are that expensive because you need zero backlash.


One at a time doesn't work, so how about doing them in
bunches?  Just thinking "out loud" here.  Is there any way
to bundle them all up on a faceplate and machine them all at
once?  could you, for example, drill the center hole
oversize, thread it, and bolt them to the face plate from
the back side in groups of four, and face them off all at
once?  Do the same thing on a ground piece of flat stock and
flatten them in the mill four at a time with a fly cutter,
2" face cutter, or some sort of grinder mounted to the head?
Mounted on a shaper table with a grinder mounted on the ram
in place of the usual cutting tool - but use the hand wheel
to stroke it back and forth?  Find a surface grinder and
grind them four at a time while they are standing at
magnetic attention on a magnetic chuck?

You've probably tried all these already.  Oh well, I'll keep
thinking.

Fitch



From chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:16:15 EST 1996
Article: 43957 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!van-bc!news.mindlink.net!news
From: chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 07:20:48 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32ae4f31.1767321@news.mindlink.net>
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kevin@aquilagroup.com wrote:


>If Chris has a source for cheap diodes ($30 each is typ. retail) then it may 
>well be worthwhile to add some spike protection in the form of RC snubbers
>or gas-discharge arrestors.
>
I have seen 300A 300V diodes for a cheap as $9 surplus in the past.
What could you use for a suppressor? A capacitor across each diode?

Chris



From jsossi@up.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:16 EST 1996
Article: 43958 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.up.net!news
From: "Joseph Sossi" <jsossi@up.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Looking for engine plans
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:58:33 GMT
Organization: up.net
Lines: 8
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NNTP-Posting-Host: cmx1-238.up.net
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Hi all

Does any one out there know where I could get the plans for a engine called
the Sidewinder designed by Philip Duclos that was on the cover of Stricly
IC magazine April/may of 91 any help would be appreciated.

Joe Sossi 
jsossi@up.net


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:18 EST 1996
Article: 43959 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-20.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 06:24:23 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <32af9606.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com> wrote:


>I was persuaded by this newsgroup to go and take welding course,
>and I urge you to do take one.  8 hours a week of welding instruction
>has made a HUGE difference in my ability, and the cost is low.

>Cheap and easy are not always possible.  I can now say that a 
>trailer could be assembled using one of the Lincoln AC/DC machines
>at HomeDepot, and a lot of 1/8" 6013 rod at about 85-90 amps. It
>took a few months to get to this point, but now I'll never forget.

>A GOOD power supply for welding is not cheap.  And you need clothes
>and tools and a helmet.  How much can you afford?  Having looked into
>this exact area, I can say with certainty that it is cheaper just 
>to buy a trailer than to buy the tools to make one.


The class is a very good idea.  I was not fortunate enough
to ever have the opportunity to take one so taught myself by
reading books and practicing.  That was a lot of years ago.

BTW you can use 6013 on AC only welders.  That was the rod I
used a lot with my 225 amp AC Lincoln - also some 7014, and
a few pounds of 7024.  It would take a long time to list the
stuff I built with that welder, a $200.00 bandsaw, saw, a
sears grinder, and a drill press ($179.00 cheap imported
thing that won't die after years of abuse so I can buy a new
one!).  The torch came later.

Fitch




From thomas0297@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:19 EST 1996
Article: 43960 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rusting Metal [deliberately]
Date: 12 Dec 1996 06:13:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
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References: <57vnme$lg8@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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Try applying lysol toilet bowl cleaner. the bottle with the neck that
turns up to get under the ring.       Excellent for removing the bluing on
firearms.  Side effect is rust in about 24 to 72  hours if not flushed and
cleaned afterwords.  


From randy@intnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:21 EST 1996
Article: 43961 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.245.243.1!news.palantir.com!news.IntNet.net!news
From: Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:32:08 -0800
Organization: Intelligence Network Online, Inc.
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net>
References: <57s9vq$dou@news.usit.net> <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net> <58hded$53@starlifter.us.dell.com> <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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Paul Amaranth wrote:
> 
> I saw a short description of cold welding in the new Strictly IC.  Pretty
> simple, actually, at least in concept.
> 
> Also, some time ago, there was an illustration of repairing a Jaguar
> E-Type block (these are irreplaceable and worth close to their weight
> in gold) using this technique in a Jaguar restoration magazine.
> The crack went right through the serial number.  When they were finished
> you couldn't even tell there had been a crack there.
> 
> I think the recommendation was to check with either diesel or marine
> repair shops for expertise.
> 
> --
> Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
> Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
> paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services

I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need to
hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
Clint


From rnichols@interaccess.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:22 EST 1996
Article: 43962 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!su-news-feed4.bbnplanet.com!sonysjc!sonybc!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!interaccess!omega-3.right.here!rnichols
From: rnichols@interaccess.com (Robert Nichols)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:14:44 GMT
Organization: InterAccess: Chicagoland's Best Internet Provider
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <E2A3KL.E4x.0.omega-3@interaccess.com>
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X-Guaranteed-Fresh-Until: Mon, Dec 16 1996

Note: E-mailed *and* posted.

In article <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
VAntonova <vantonova@aol.com> wrote:
:I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
:that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
:couldn't touch the motor,
[...]

The motor's rated temperature rise should be on the nameplate.  A rated
rise of 50 C is common.  Added to a 25 C room temp, that would put the
temperature of the motor up around 170 F, which is a bit too hot to hold
your hand on.

Whether you trust the motor to run continuously near its maximum rated
temperature is another matter.

-- 
Bob Nichols         rnichols@interaccess.com
Finger rnichols@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59  20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:24 EST 1996
Article: 43963 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mr.net!nntp.earthlink.net!cust34.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net!user
From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old Fashioned Anvil?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 22:27:10 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <stagesmith-0912962227110001@cust34.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <01bbe598$a4e54860$68ac35c6@kdl>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust34.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <01bbe598$a4e54860$68ac35c6@kdl>, "Kerry Lange"
<kdl@IslandNet.com> wrote:

> A friend of mine, who doesn't have Internet access, is looking for an old
> fashioned anvil.  Does anyone know where he can get one.  He lives in
> Vancouver, BC, Canada and if anyone knows of one near there, please e-mail
> me.

I don't know of any in the seattle area that are in any kind of decent
shape, but I could always make one to any specification.
I live in Seattle and would be willing to deliver to Vancouver.
If you are wondering how someone makes an anvil  check out my WWW article at:

http://tbr.state.tn.us/%7Ewgray/howto/anvil/anvil.html


Anyone can make one, but I make really pretty ones.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:25 EST 1996
Article: 43964 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:01:33 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <32b30f09.90259900@news.islandnet.com>
References: <01bbe5f9$11e29520$7477da80@mycroft> <58mddb$ask$3@mrnews.mro.dec.com> <58o05g$ovr@news.proaxis.com>
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

> An old finger brake, 16 ga. 
>went for $2300. Everybody's busy & has money to burn.

That is obscene !!! You can buy a 4 ft 16 ga breake for that price NEW
!!! (And that is in CANADIAN dollars too)

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:27 EST 1996
Article: 43965 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Binder for sand mold making.
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:01:39 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32b40f78.90370958@news.islandnet.com>
References: <58o10j$qne@mulga.cs.mu.OZ.AU>
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johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU (John Horvath) wrote:

> form a large (10' by 10') sand-based casting mold.

Whoa .... I wonder what size your furnace is ?????
Are you building a replica of the Queen Mary in a 1:1 scale ?????
At that size, any commercial casting or refractory supplier in your
area will be more than glad to take your money.

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:28 EST 1996
Article: 43966 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:01:42 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Message-ID: <32b51047.90577916@news.islandnet.com>
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

>One other extremely useful gadget is some sort of strong
>magnet in an aluminum 1 qt. pot with a handle.  Wave it
>around clost to the surface over which you have been working
>with ferrous metal and it  will pickup all the grindings and
>metal pieces that fall on the ground or concrete.  The pot
>keeps them seperated from the magnet.  Pick up the magnet
>and they will fall off the pot, into a waste container if
>you happen to be holding it over one.  Really helps with the
>clean up.

Hey .... COOL ... one of the most annoying things about welding and
grinding is the mess it makes out of my 90 degree fixturing magnets.
I've been meaning to try putting them in a plastic bag for picking up
the metal bits but figured that the bag would probably puncture too
easily or be too difficult to deal with when you try to peal it off
the magnet ..... got to try the aluminum can trick !!!!
(Now where would I find an aluminum can ??? Guess I could use a
plastic bucket too)

Jens


>The stuff is hot and can throw sparks capable of starting
>fires a long ways - like 15 or 20 feet.  It is also really
>hot.

Been there, done that, got some car carpeting to proof the theory of
hot sparks   :)


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:29 EST 1996
Article: 43967 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 17:26:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 19
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In article <58qhd5$4b0@news1.voicenet.com>, Elliott <bingo@voicenet.com>
writes:

>> 25-250 PSI". So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
>> motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A
fuse!
>> What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.
>my vote is you need a pressure switch with a differential or hysterisis
> as one fellow wrote.
>  check ww grainger for one by furnas its about 35.00 and has adjustable
>differential set points.
> 

Hey Vantanova, what was the outcome of this? I for one would be interested
to know, providing you are still alive and not electocuted as a result.
Probably still like to know then.

Peter



From rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:16:31 EST 1996
Article: 43968 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Richard Sewell")
Subject: Re: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
Message-ID: <E2Ao81.AxH@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
References: <19961211232800.SAA09535@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:40:49 GMT
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> Boing

Err - makers of the Space Hopper, right ? :-)


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:32 EST 1996
Article: 43969 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New to newsgroup
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:01:45 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297) wrote:

>I am new to the news group and was wondering if anyone could tell me a
>good place to post an ad for a lathe I want to sell.  Are ads accepted on
>this newsgroup?  Thanks  Tom

This is about the best place you can be !

Yes, ads are ok as long as you don't sell machinery for a living (and
even then it's ok at times) and as long as you don't repost every day
for the next year.

Jens


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:33 EST 1996
Article: 43970 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:01:17 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:


>Apple may have it's faults and problems, but they are making important
>progress that people on the outside aren't aware of and aren't likely to
>uncover in PC-Week.

And since people don't find out, Apple will go the same way that BETA
VCR's went  (Beta was technologically better than VHS))

>My apologies for the rant but misconceptions are rampant and every now and
>then I need to vent. I don't mean to discount the capabilities of PC's as
>they are great machines for many things but don't assume market share and
>herd instinct to be the only measure of success; particularly when
>powerful unseen forces are presenting statistics designed to manipulate
>rather than inform. The common perception is rarely accurate nor is the
>lowest common denominator the best solution for an individual need. 

True, but sometimes you got to go with the flow or you'll be extinct
by the time you get where you want to be.

>BTW the next time one of those nasty virii infects your PC seek out a Mac
>to format clean floppies. I have a friend who admins a large PC network
>and told me that he keeps an old Mac around just for the purpose.

Contrary to popular opinion, Macs can be attacked by virii as well.
The one saving grace for Mac and virii is that since the Mac is too
expensive and the hackers that write virii are smart, they don't tend
to buy Macs ...
(and if you didn't like that cheap shot, you could also take it as
saying that since the VAST majority of PC's out there are IBM based,
that's where the VAST majority of virii will be .... )

Oh, btw, if you have a virus on a PC floppy, ANY other system will do
for formatting as long as that system supports PC formatting ... the
virus will be based on the IBM system and won't (generally) be able to
attack the alternate system.

And BTW, since I am ranting, it is generally held by Mac zealots that
IBM's crash and Mac's run solid ... let me assure you that Mac's crash
too !!!

I happen to like IBM but it all depends on what software one wants to
run. A computer is a door stop without software and if a killer app
comes along that is only available on Mac's and it is something I
needed, I wouldn't hesitate to switch (or more likely add) boxes ....
the box makes really no difference in the overall picture.

Regards

Jens


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:34 EST 1996
Article: 43971 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: here it comes!!! "JET" benchmill
Date: 12 Dec 1996 12:05:48 GMT
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The leadscrew can be replaced with some acme thread screw from Wholesale
Tool.

Cecil in OK


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:35 EST 1996
Article: 43972 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:01:09 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 66
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In article <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>, "D.Young"
<jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> Hi there,
> 
>         I know very little about welding but I would like to learn the
art.  It
> just seems like such a useful skill.  I wouldn't mind throughing
> together a utility trailer to start with.  What would be the best type
> of welding setup that would be cheap and easy to operate for a beginner
> such as myself???  Any comments or suggestions are welcomed.
> 
> Thanks, Dan

Hi Dan

If you are interested in using the older methods then go for a basic
Lincoln Stick welder. They cost about $300 and have around 200 amp output.
However , if you are more interested in getting things done than saving a
few bucks, then buy one of the baby MIG welders by Miller Hobart or
Lincoln.
They run on 110v AC power and if you get the gas bottle , the welding is
extremely easy.
I teach welding classes. Whenever I have a new group who have never welded
before, I have them try all the other machines( Betamig 250 , Miller
Econotig, gas , and Stick) , but I always make sure that they try my
Hobart Handler 120.
After struggling with the bigger machines it is like a hot melt glue gun
for steel. 
I love watching them flip up their hoods with big grins on their faces
when they realize that they can lay down a really pretty weld.
The nice Baby MIGs all cost around $500, but Lincoln does make some really
small ones for under $300.
Gas torches are great , and are still the best way to learn welding, but
they are a little ponderous to use for anything other than brazing and
cutting. 
You will soon learn that your best freind is a good 4-1/2"  or 5" right
angle grinder, and an assortment of flapper discs, grinding wheels,
cuttoff wheel, and wire wheel cup brushes. I personnally recommend the
Porter Cable 5" grinder. It is made in Germany by Metabo, and is built
like a tank.

Make freinds with a local welding supplier. Ask around the local metal
shops to find one that has a good rep.
Having a good relationship with a supplier can be a real blessing.

To REALLY learn welding you should check out your local trade schools.
An added benefit to taking classes is that you usually get to work on home
projects in the shop.

Another point is that you can rent almost any welding equipment before buying.
Most welding suppliers rent welding equipment for very reasonable rates.
Also if you are interested in a particular machine, you can usually test
drive it at the store before pluncking down your money.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From ranson@infoave.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:37 EST 1996
Article: 43973 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news1.sunbelt.net!dial-10
From: ranson@infoave.net (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Soldering Gold Fill
Date: 13 Dec 1996 02:27:35 GMT
Organization: Info Avenue INTERNET Access
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Hard soldering gold fill is a little tricky because of firescale. We use a lot 
of gold fill material and solder intricate pieces with NO firescale and very 
little cleanup. First and for most you need a good flux, see formula below.

Dip the piece(s) to be soldered in the alachol flux - place them on your 
solder block and burn off the alachol. Next heat the pieces just a little and 
apply more flux (water base), heat - flux, heat - flux, until the entire piece 
is white. Use only extra easy 8K solder made especially for gold fill 
material. If you don't over heat the metal it will not have any firescale and 
only requires light buffing with rouge.

Ranson
http://www.ro.com/av/gems


We start with Denatured Alchol about 4oz then add 2T of boric acid and 2T of 
boraz. Put the liquid in a small glass bottle and loosely capit. Place in a 
pan of water on the stove and heat to just below the boiling point. Stur the 
liquid until the alachol is completely saturated. When finished there should 
be some borax left in the bottom, if not you did'nt put enough in. So put some 
more in and heat again.

Next we make another flux with distiled water instead of alachol, using the 
same process as above.

We then dip the entire piece in the flux, set on the solder block and burn off 
the alachol. Then only add a very small ammount of the water flux on the join.

Ranson
http://www.ro.com/av/gems


From roboglid@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:38 EST 1996
Article: 43974 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!chi-news.cic.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-10.sprintlink.net!news.rain.net!hevanet.com!usenet
From: Robert Davis <roboglid@3-cities.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: Density of metals?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:10:55 -0800
Organization: Hevanet Communications
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32B0C93F.1985@3-cities.com>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.misc:27401 rec.crafts.metalworking:43974 sci.engr.metallurgy:9968

Pat Missin wrote:
> 
> Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
> commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
> density of ABS plastic?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
>  -- Pat Missin
> 
> patm@globalnet.co.uk
Copper 8.96
commercial bronze 8,89
yellow brass 8.47
Muntz metal 8.41
Al 1100 2.71
Al 2014 2.80
Al 6061 2.70
Al 5056 2.64
316 SS  8.0
304 SS  7.9
410 SS  7.7

all units in g/cc


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:39 EST 1996
Article: 43975 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> 
> In article <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>, "D.Young"
> <jtskidan@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> 
> > Hi there,
> >
> >         I know very little about welding but I would like to learn the
> art.  It
> > just seems like such a useful skill.  I wouldn't mind throughing
> > together a utility trailer to start with.  
> >
> > Thanks, Dan


> However , if you are more interested in getting things done than saving a
> few bucks, then buy one of the baby MIG welders by Miller Hobart or
> Lincoln.
> --
> Best of luck
>                             Ernie Leimkuhler

I hesitate (well, not much) to critique Ernie, who does such an amazing
job of making anvils, but..

I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:41 EST 1996
Article: 43976 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: NJRich <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BA Taps ..Hallelujah
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:03:36 -0800
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Thank you Steve,

This NG is too much! The only complaint I have is that
I am exhausted from turning over a front handspring followed by
a round off and seven back handsprings and a triple back somersault!
Right down the block in the middle of my street!
I am so happy I found this group.

British Tools and Fasteners has my BA taps on the way!


From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:42 EST 1996
Article: 43977 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!LOCALNAME
From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 13:55:58 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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In article <58mu7b$g40@top.MTS.Net>, Neil Poersch <npoersch@mts.net> wrote:
>Can anyone tell me what type of metal are carburetors  made
>from?  Are they made of a zinc alloy or aluminum alloy or...?
>
>I need to plug a existing hole for an idle adjusting screw in 
>a carb body and then drill and tap it 3mm offset from the 
>original hole.  I want to ensure the plug doesn't loosen up
>over time and am wondering if I can sweat-solder it or TIG
>weld it or epoxy it or whatever?
>
>Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
>
>Neil
>
>

I believe most carb bodies are a zinc alloy. I hate to admit it,
but I've repaired several worn throttle shaft bores with good old
JB Weld.




From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:44 EST 1996
Article: 43978 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:05:08 -0500
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VAntonova wrote:
> 
> I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
> that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
> couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than the
> compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor with
> silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
> much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.

I don't think I would paint it at all.  Adding paint thickness also adds
an insulating blanket on it.  I just had the raditor of my Model A
redone and they painted it with a very thin coat of flat black. 
Radiators are not black just for looks.

Brian


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:45 EST 1996
Article: 43979 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Re: BA Taps
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 16:18:59 GMT
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NJRich wrote:
> 
> Hi ,
> 
> Does anyone know a stateside source for BA taps? I am building the
> Stuart model Victoria. The taps are a must. Victoria requires
> BA 2,5 and 7. ( A source besides Coles models please )
> 
> Thank you...
> Be safe!
> Rich

Dear Rich,

Here's some stuff I saved from other correspondence:

----------------------------------
You should be able to find a 1/4-26 BSF tap from one of
these places:

Name:        Metric and Multistandard Corporation
Phone:       (708) 655-9009 

They will ship small orders, COD. Ask for their catalog (it's great).

British Cycle Supply Company
Box 119
Wolfville, NS B0P 1X0
CANADA
Phone (902) 542-7478 (3 lines)
Fax (902) 542-7479

British Tools and Fasteners
Phillip Brown
2030 Andre Avenue
Los Osos, CA 93402 USA
(805) 528-0418
FAX: (805) 528-0358
boltnut@ix.netcom.com
http://www.majon.com/www/british.html

Online order form for tools & fasteners in BA, BSF BSW and BS CYCLE
sizes.
Also have TAPS and DIES in sets and singularly in M.E. SIZES.
Catalog $2.


British Cycle Supply Company
Box 119
Wolfville, NS B0P 1X0
CANADA
Phone (902) 542-7478 (3 lines)
Fax (902) 542-7479

Although this company specialises in parts and accessories
for British bikes, not cars, they have been supplying customers for
over 18 years, and have a number of items which would be of interest
to British car owners, primarily Whitworth tools and hardware.

They are direct importers, and supply retail and wholesale.

While a copy of their 176 pg. pricguide/catalogue is available for
$5.00 postpaid (prepaid or by calling with a credit card number) best
bet is to phone them any weekday. They have warehouses in both the USA
and
Canada, and accept all credit cards. - Wayne Swift 



-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From frank@newshost.dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:46 EST 1996
Article: 43980 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!la-news1.digilink.net!newshost.dsea.com!newshost.dsea.com!not-for-mail
From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Record Vise cheap at PriceClub
Date: 12 Dec 1996 11:17:43 -0800
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America, Inc.
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I am not associated with PriceClub, but I have to mention the current,
excellent deal for the 4" (100mm) Record Vise.

This is not a piece of junk, and is made in England.  Whereas the
casting does not weigh 80 lbs, and the machining is not mirror smooth,
the quality is much better than the typical made in China stuff.  For
whatever reason, these units are now priced at $19.99.

-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Dec 17 14:16:48 EST 1996
Article: 43981 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical min
Message-ID: <1996Dec12.122908.25829@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 12 Dec 96 12:29:08 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <32ACE300.7D97@spec.net>, tony <tonyd@spec.net> writes:
|>
|>O.K., but what about the force when the ram accelerates due to gravity at 32 ft.
|>per second^2 during the distance of its stroke?


I was afraid somebody would ask this.  It's like asking "how long is a string?"

The original question (and Scott's answer) was simply how much did the
ram weigh.

Actual striking force (not pressure) depends largely on how compressible
the striking masses are.  If I drop an incompressible object onto another
incompressible object (this needs to include the planet it's attached to)
the actual striking fource would be infinite.  The obvious flaw here is that
nothing is incompressible.

Let's take an extreme opposite example.  Drop a 15-pound bowling ball onto
a pile of foam rubber, and when it first hits, it will start decelerating
(actually, it will first continue to accelerate but at a decreasing rate
until the response force equals the weight of the ball, then it will
decelerate) and slowly come to a stop.  Ignore the springback for now.
Throughout the impact time, the force might not exceed, say, 25 pounds.

Now remove the foam rubber and substitute a thick copper plate.  The same
thing happens but over a significantly shorter distance, perhaps a few
thousandths of an inch.  Decelerating a 15-pound mass traveling a dozen or
so miles per hour in that distance requires significantly higher forces,
perhaps in the many-tons range (I haven't bothered to calcluate, I' trying
to describe it qualitatively here).

So the same thing happens in a falling-ram press.  The actual force will
depend on the compressibility of the thing being pressed.  For soft items the
force will be smaller over a greater distance, and opposite for "hard" items
such as steel.

And pressure is force per unit area, so then we need to take into account
the area of the object.  It also gets difficult to analyze if the object
responds non-linearly to deformation, or if the ram itself absorbs enery
by its own deformation (temporary, hopefully, but unavoidable).

Jim


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:49 EST 1996
Article: 43982 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 20:44:07 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <32AF7F87.5131@cyberhighway.net>
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58hpms$bpn@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe781$f6be88a0$244c8b92@mikehenr>
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To: Mike Henry <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------75307A61EF2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Mike Henry wrote:
> 
> Please pardon the ignorance, but what does one use a shaper for?  It sounds
> like something I'd like to have <g>.

See Lindsay's catalog for shaper books.   Also he has Dave Gingery's
book
on building your own shaper, lathe, drill press, horizontal mill, etc...


-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------75307A61EF2
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Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------75307A61EF2--



From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:50 EST 1996
Article: 43983 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.253.225.2!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!news
From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:25:00 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32B04DF5.F4F@voyager.net>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <58mol0$2k2@rational.rational.com>, davide@rational.com (David
> Erickson) writes:
> 
  Note, these are for scraping
> >machinery ways, not paint or woodworking applications.
> > 
> Using the side of the grinder remove the file teeth and you have an
> excellent scraper for beds.
> 
> Peter


Okay, so where do you guys get the ribbed straight edges needed for
scraping machinery?

Brian Perry


From frank@dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:52 EST 1996
Article: 43984 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!la-news1.digilink.net!newshost.dsea.com!usenet
From: Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 12 Dec 1996 17:44:28 GMT
Organization: Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
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X-URL: news:32af9606.0@mothra.westworld.com


Check out your welding books a bit more. 

6013 works great on DC.  In fact, this is the preferred method
for welding sheet metal with 6013.  Only once have I used 6013
on AC.

Vertical down 6013 DCRP on 16 ga steel is like using a caulking 
gun.  Very fast and easy to control.

Welding class final exam in 8 hours.......




From xcprhb@oryx.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:53 EST 1996
Article: 43985 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MSC Novatool Lathes
Date: 12 Dec 1996 18:15:42 GMT
Organization: Oryx Energy Company
Lines: 17
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58pi4f$hdd@lm1.oryx.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffar.oryx.com

Anyone have experience w/ either the 12x40 or 13x40 Novatool lathes
sold by MSC?

Comments about Chinese junk to /dev/null please.

thanks,


-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
               I am solely responsible for the contents...

Reginald H. Beardsley                                      rhb@acm.org

              Exploration Software Consultants Incorporated
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:55 EST 1996
Article: 43986 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.253.225.2!nntp.netrex.net!news.voyager.net!news
From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam logging book
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:49:34 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32B053B1.43B4@voyager.net>
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To: Gloria Edith Keays <gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca>

Gloria Edith Keays wrote:
> 
> I was flicking through the HSM and Live Steam magazine, when I
> came across this book being advertised (steam logging, I think,
> was the title).  I was wondering if anybody had seen this book,
> or read any reviews on it.

Rod,

I bought and have this book. It's mostly a construction book but there
are articles that are just for entertainment. I would say its a good
book for you if you are interested in building live steam.

Brian Perry


From bfairey@wat.hookup.net Tue Dec 17 14:16:57 EST 1996
Article: 43987 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: Density of metals?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 15:27:05 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
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On Thu, 12 Dec 1996 05:22:23 GMT, patm@globalnet.co.uk (Pat Missin)
wrote:

>Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
>commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
>density of ABS plastic?
>
>Thanks in advance,
> -- Pat Missin
>
>patm@globalnet.co.uk
>
I bet you want to calculate the weight of something
remember alu is .1 lbs/cu/in
steel .28 and plastic .05


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:16:59 EST 1996
Article: 43988 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Generators, motors as generators
Date: 12 Dec 1996 16:36:44 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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> Surplus Center has belt driven generators but they don't have three
phase
>capability. Im not sure where to find three phase generators unless you
>happen across one that has the engine blown up. The phone number for
>Surplus Center is 1-800-488-3407.
Here's a crazy idea. Buy three of these, and a good chain. Arrange them so
that the rotors are 120 degrees apart. Then wire one lead from every
generator together. The remaining three wires will give you 30KW of 3
phase power from 3 10KW 1 phase generators. By the way, this is just a
crazy idea of a person who is barely awake. This is extremly dangerous. If
you want to do this, go to the local library first, put fuses and meters
everywhere, have two fire extinguishers next to you, and put on thick dry
wlding gloves. By the way, if anyone has seen 1 or 3 phase generators for
under $150, please tell me. Be careful.

Alex.


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:00 EST 1996
Article: 43989 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:00:00 -0800
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"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:

>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.

I agree ... I can make real pretty stuff but won't touch a structural
job that could result in major (property or persanal) damage such as a
trailer. Most welds I lay down are fine but there is always the one
cold/low penetration joint that sneaks in. It's just not worth the
risk.

Jens


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:17:01 EST 1996
Article: 43990 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!in1.nntp.cais.net!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!chi-news.cic.net!news.voyager.net!news
From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New to newsgroup
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:35:27 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
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E-mail me first and then I'll let you know if it's okay to post.<g>

Brian Perry


From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 14:17:02 EST 1996
Article: 43991 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in3.uu.net!206.202.0.9!municipal.maf.mobile.al.us!ns1!not-for-mail
From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Binder for sand mold making.
Date: 14 Dec 1996 00:15:41 GMT
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
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John Horvath (johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU) wrote:
: I am looking for recommendations of a compound (preferably cheap and water-
: based) that will allow me to form a large (10' by 10') sand-based casting mold.
: 
: It needs to be workable and have a fairly thick consistency but it must
: set HARD when dry with minimal shrinkage.
: 
: Any techniques or tips in general on sand mold-making would be appreciated.

Two years ago I had a pair of sailboat hinges I was making out of bronze 
(actually high copper brass, but don't tell anybody. It was for my boat 
anyway) but the mold kept coming apart because the sand wouldn't hold 
together for the inch long 3/16 thick slot between the fingers of the 
female half. I spent all day experimenting until I found a combination of 
one cup builder's plaster to five cups of plain sand (not greensand) 
which held together well. I had to put in the water and mold it quickly 
'cause the plaster set, just like it would naturally. But it did real well.

I've never casted anything 10" by 10" and would be afraid to. Something 
that big would be really dangerous if the mold started spitting or 
exploded. I casted a bronze statuette once that was 8" by 2 1/2" but I 
used a lost wax investment mold burned out at 1100 degrees and then 
cooled to 900 degrees then dropped into a hole in the ground and packed 
in dry sand before pouring. But, using plaster cold it will BLOW UP 
just like greensand would with something that big!!!
 
I don't think that somebody should do this sort of thing unless they've 
been casting for a LONG time starting with lead at 400 degrees then 
aluminum at 800 degrees so they know what's going on. Brass and bronze 
are nothing to fool around with! 

Georgie





From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 14:17:04 EST 1996
Article: 43992 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:32:41 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

> G'day,
> 
> Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
> NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
> diameter hole through them.
> 
> Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length. I
> don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to machine
> them to the exact same length in the lathe. 
> 
> I thought of using hardened drill bushes but the ones I have measured vary
> in length by several thou. Any suggestions for an off-the-shelf item that
> would work? They can be square round hex, anything as long as the length
> is consistant with a 1/4" or larger hole through them. Hell the hole can
> even be off-center.
> 
> Peter


How about cutting up a set of the cheap Enco 1-2-3 blocks?

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:05 EST 1996
Article: 43993 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Please reply again:  Spares required
Date: 13 Dec 1996 00:14:38 GMT
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Dear Sir,

Last night I received a message from a gentleman, which
requested details from me about spares, can you please
re-post your message again.

Alberto


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:06 EST 1996
Article: 43994 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: 12 Dec 1996 19:23:33 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
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The last page of the KBC catalog has a nice equivalence table, including
a tapping chart. It's 8.5x11 inches, so it fits perfectly in a sheet
protector, which I have hung on the wall above the lathe.

Starrett will send you a free card with equivalents - it's about 3x5.
Just write and ask (address in the FAQ).


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:08 EST 1996
Article: 43995 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:06 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 29
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In article <32af928f.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>I there a way to "fake it" by using something like the
>outside ring from a huge bearing or something as the spacer,
>then use bolts just in tension.  They can be really
>precision.
>
>Fitch
>I hate giving up and buying something like that, I'm sure
>there is a way ...
>
>
>
>

Often the most obvious is the most unseen. You hit upon it in another post
as did someone else about two days back but I didn't recognise it. Ggrrr.

The spacers have a tapped holes in both ends! One end is 3/8 and the other
1/4. All I need do is to (slap to forehead) bolt the sucker to the face
plate and machine them all at once. (slap, slap, groan)

Peter
Sheepishly turning spacers all to the same length. Thanks to all that
responded and perhaps we can find a way of transmiting a blow from a 2 x 4
to get my attention more often. I feel so ashamed. ;)>




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:09 EST 1996
Article: 43996 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:09 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 10
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Can't see the point either but it begs another question loosely related.

Why are there hundreds of company names in the LA Times classifieds. If
you read through it they list the names of companies then some ads then
more company names and more ads. What for? Do these companies pay?

Peter
Still curious.




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:11 EST 1996
Article: 43997 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58o164$ovr@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
<packrat@proaxis.com> writes:

>Ah, but now you can build something else,  and you already have the
tools!
>
>REgards, Mark
>
>

Hey Mark, have you been to aNdy'S school of Internet etiquette?

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:13 EST 1996
Article: 43998 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:24 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 18
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In article <32af8f4d.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>handle - or weld on a short 1" drive socket extension.  I am
>assuming that you need to be able to apply some serious
>torque to the nuts if they are that large.  A welded up tool
>should last through the removal and replacement of 6 nuts.  
>
>

Hey Fitch, think CNC. A lump of 4" round cut to about 3" long. Take 5
minutes to write a program to cut a hex, go back with a smaller cutter and
cut back the corners to clear the hex points, weld the largsest socket you
can find at a pawn shop tool table and the guy can go loosen the bolts?
Yes?

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:14 EST 1996
Article: 43999 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Message-ID: <19961212200600.PAA12700@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <58o0mn$ovr@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
<packrat@proaxis.com> writes:

>At the risk of starting another battle royale, I'd say wait a while...
like
>50 
>years. Enco is not noted for their service, quality, or anything else.
>
>

Can't agree here, they are slow in shipping but everything I have bought
>from  them has worked as expected. I have one of their Tapmatic clones and
it is in production use and works flawlessly.

As to service they have responded admirably when I have had a problem and
if stuff is on back order they don't charge freight when they eventually
send the stuff. I have had three deliveries for one order, but just the
one charge for freight. That spells service to me.

The R8 collet set I bought also has been great, good quality great price.

Thjis may not indicate much about the lathe QC but I have found them to be
quite good, albeit a little slow.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:17 EST 1996
Article: 44000 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32af8f52.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>A suggestion, don't be stampeded by a sale price expiration
>date.  There will be another one, soon.  Make sure it is
>what you want.
>
>

Enco will match advertised prices for the same products. Just tell the
sales person and fax them the ad.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:20 EST 1996
Article: 44001 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Small Lathe recommendations?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:33 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AF17C0.3592@hotmail.com>, nojunkmail@hotmail.com writes:

>As far as I'm concerned USENET is a participative forum not a black hole
>which you drop a question into whenever your stuck and expect someone
>else to do your research and apprenticeship for you. 
>
>No disclaimers I am the company.
>
>

No disclaimers needed, It really peeves me too. The arrogance of these
people. If they can get on to the NG to post the message then they should
at least visit a while until they get the answer. Fortunately most people
here usually ignore sauch request but is good to keep reminding us.

Peter
Cleaning wax from his 'deaf' ear.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:22 EST 1996
Article: 44002 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:35 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
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In article <is-1112961630140001@204.140.220.27>, is@infodial.net (Mark)
writes:

>20 Gal. tank
>2hp
>11.7 cfm
>delivery 9cfm at 90psi
>220v
>25ft. hose
>
>

All from only two horses? wow!

Peter
Still using 6.5 Sears HP to get 9 at 90.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:24 EST 1996
Article: 44003 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: STUPID INCORRECT LIST
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AF6D3C.5ED3@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>(1) is there a new company called BOING??
>(2) MARTIN is now LOCKHEED MARTIN
>(3) PRATT & WHITNEY is on the balls of there ass
>(4) there is no & between PERKIN ELMER
>(5) who cares
>(6) its stupid
>
>

At least it got you riled 'nuff to locate the caps and shift keys.

pEteR



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:25 EST 1996
Article: 44004 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help finding Acme tap
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:30 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 21
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In article <58nkr5$9an@nw101.infi.net>, rebeccas@fay.infi.net (Rebecca or
Jim Schwitters) writes:

>I need to renew the cross slide and compound lead screws and nuts in
>my lathe.  I can easily turn the screws but the nuts are another
>matter.  Although available from the factory (Schaublin) as
>replacement parts,  they're considerably more expensive than I can
>easily justify.
>
>Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>

Can you bore the thread out of the nuts and turn down some stock acme nuts
for a press and pinned fit?

I was not aware there was such an animal as a metric acme or buttress
thread. I have only ever seen inch versions in metric machines.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:27 EST 1996
Article: 44005 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58nqjh$jto@wilma.widomaker.com>, alanh@widomaker.com (Alan
Horowitz) writes:

>It might be worth your while to buy somewhat more than a $1.00 hose.
>Epoxy in your engine ain't gonna be funny.
>
>

Might quiet it down some though. <g>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:28 EST 1996
Article: 44006 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New to newsgroup
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
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In article <19961212055300.AAA21307@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297) writes:

>I am new to the news group and was wondering if anyone could tell me a
>good place to post an ad for a lathe I want to sell.  Are ads accepted on
>this newsgroup?  Thanks  Tom
>
>

Let's have the description and price Tom. Perfectly acceptable to post the
message unless you are in the business of selling them. It becomes a fine
line to tread in that case. Several tight rope walkers in residence
already. <grinning guys!!!!>

Peter



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:30 EST 1996
Article: 44007 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" South Bend
Date: 12 Dec 1996 19:26:26 GMT
Organization: SGI AESD, Mountain View, CA USA
Lines: 9
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If you call South Bend (address/phone in the FAQ) with your serial
number, they can tell you what kind of motor shipped with the lathe.
Chances are it's a single phase 1/2 HP 1725 RPM motor, probably cap
start possibly instant reversing. Depending on the age of the lathe,
it's probably a NEMA 66 or 56 frame.

Fractional horsepower 66 frame motors are kind of hard to find these
days, but there are some on the surplus market.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:31 EST 1996
Article: 44008 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <19961212200700.PAA12721@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961212023700.VAA15492@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
lwc1220@aol.com writes:

>but thats not too abnormal. What I have had the past few days is my
>personal filing cabinet went down with everything in it. What a pain. The
>really bad thing was that I had spent a good bit of time writing up
>several replies just before it went down. 
>
>

Yeah, mine too. As far as I can recall, I did *not* close the PFC down
before exiting the aol program. I had it open and aol minimized, I had
earlier deleted a pile of stuff in 'mail I have read' and 'mail I have
sent' and had *not* compacted.

Instead of maximizing and closing I just clicked the 'close' menu option
>from  the minimized version. Next time I went back in the PFC was trash
along with all of the addresses for 'my favorite places' Grrrrr

Peter



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:17:32 EST 1996
Article: 44009 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam turbines
Date: 12 Dec 1996 19:08:25 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <58pl79$nef@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

: Richard Hal Buxton (rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us) wrote:
: : Hi everyone,
: : Some time ago I started on a Tiny Power 5HP steam engine.  At
: : the same time I started on a 5 HP boiler.  Of late I have
: : shifted my efforts to the boiler as I reconsider the engine.  A
: : friend of mine suggested I build a five HP steam turbine
: : instead of the piston drived engine.  I have seen the 5 HP
: : steam turbines offered by an outfit in Florida I believe.  It
: : had four vanes in the turbine set at right angles to the
: : shaft.  I wondered if there was a better arrangement for the
: : blades and if there was an advantage to having more blades?  I

: What you want is to look up the Scientific American article on the
: breakthrough steam turbine built by (and now my memory is blocked with
: Whittle, but that's gas turbines, not steam).  It had a few very good
: photos and analysis of how the turbine was built (with simple machine
: tools).  I've seen the original unit in the Smithsonian.  I'll try to
: get the correct name and the date of the article.  This unit was apparently
: the first high speed (18000 RPM) turbine ever built.  This thing looks
: eminently buildable in the home shop, but not in one weekend :) !

The article is in the April 1985 issue of Scientific American, PP. 132 to
139.  It was for the 100th anniversary of the development by Charles
Parsons of the axial flow steam turbine.  He had to invent the whole
science of high speed rotating machinery, critical speed, vibration,
lubrication, seals, regulation, etc.  He completed his first practical
turbine in 1884!  One of the features of this turbine is that the 15
stages are all the same diameter.  This certainly made it easier to
construct the blade rings, which were made of BRASS!  All the blades
are at 45 degrees, with just a filed (or milled) chamfer at the leading
edge!  You could make these easily with a dividing head in a mill.

 						Jon



From rich_klopp@qm.sri.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:33 EST 1996
Article: 44010 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!hp-pcd!hplabs!unix.sri.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: rich_klopp@qm.sri.com (Rich Klopp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for engine plans
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:08:47 GMT
Organization: SRI International
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <rich_klopp-1212961211220001@128.18.27.65>
References: <01bbe7d8$6ef62d40$ee38f2cd@cmx00100>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.18.27.65

> Does any...know where I could get the plans for a engine...on the cover of
> Stricly IC magazine April/may of 91

All back issues of Strictly IC are still available from the publisher,
Robert Washburn. See FAQ for address. Unfortunately, lots of his cover
engines were built without plans.

-- 
Rich Klopp


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:35 EST 1996
Article: 44011 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mr.net!newshub.tc.umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: Don Stauffer <stauffer@htc.honeywell.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Missile gyros (was Re:Advanced "Tot" Gyroscope)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 10:44:18 -0600
Organization: honeywell
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There lots of types of missiles, from ICBMs to small air to surface 
tactical missiles.  The former are multimillion dollar birds, that must 
(as has been pointed out by another poster) be periodically tested.  In 
fact, some of them are operating the gyros continuously when on alert, 
to minimize the time it takes to go through a launch sequence.  Aligning 
platforms can take several minutes, so you would rather not do that if 
you want a quick response missile.

On the other hand, many tactical missiles must be very cheap to compete 
with guns.  And they are one-time fire things.  Just as you don't test 
fire a gun round, these things are sealed one-shot things.  So the 
gyros indeed are not made for long life.

So, just knowing it was a missile gyro doesn't tell you much.  You have 
to know from WHAT missile.


-- 
Don Stauffer in Minneapolis


From grant@cdac.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:36 EST 1996
Article: 44012 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Grant Erwin <grant@cdac.com>
Subject: Re: 9" South Bend motor requirement
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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For all intents and purposes, there are only two speeds of 
fractional-horsepower AC motors: 1760 and 3420 (approx.).

I have a 9" SB which I used to use with a 3/4 hp. motor. That
motor developed a whine in the bearings so I swapped in a 1 hp.
motor. I had never been able to get the slow speeds I sometimes
needed - then I discovered the first motor was 3450 rpm! Too
fast!

I'd suggest a 1760 rpm motor in the 1/2 to 1 hp range, whatever
you can find cheapest.

Grant Erwin
Seattle, Washington

Ed White, SMO Administration - 63552 wrote:
> 
> I recently purchased a 9" South Bend Lathe, model "c". It came without
> a motor. It also came without any printed information. Can anyone tell
> me what horsepower and speed motor I should install?


From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 14:17:37 EST 1996
Article: 44013 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:03:56 -0400
Organization: Mitre
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <jesw-1212961503560001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <01bbe79e.d7ce6f60$61c2c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>, "PyroWare"
<pyroware@flash.net> wrote:

> Sorry Jim, Spaceship grade aluminum won't hack it in my current project. 
> I do need a good source for Time Machine grade aluminum ASAP, tho!  <g>
> 
Beercans are made from Time Machine grade aluminum. They will be around
until the next Ice Age grinds them up.

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:38 EST 1996
Article: 44014 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Wellcome <wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:49:58 GMT
Organization: Embedded and Real-Time Engineering, Digital Equipment Corp.
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To: steve_smith@cc.com

Another thought on this: Starrett sells some vise inserts
that are shaped like thin triangles in cross-section and
are about 6" long.  The shortest side of the cross-section
is beveled in such a way that when you put these inserts
on either side of a piece of work in a vise, then tighten
the vise, the inserts tend to pivot down and hold the work
in place.  I wish I could remember the name of these things,
but if you look in a Starrett catalog you ought to be able
to find them....




From oneferret@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:40 EST 1996
Article: 44015 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: oneferret@aol.com (One ferret)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking For A Reuseable Mold Material !
Date: 13 Dec 1996 01:17:39 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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There is a material with the generic name of kirtsite.  I believe it is an
aloy with aluminum,tin,lead perhaps.  I'll try to find more info when in
work again tomorrow.  It is a metal (cast) at fairly low crucible temps
into molds then machines to use as machining fixtures

Alan Letts
One Ferret@aol.com


From john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu Tue Dec 17 14:17:41 EST 1996
Article: 44016 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news
From: john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu (john d. robinson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:31:56 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Mechanical Engineering
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <58pq3v$vig@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <32af8f4f.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58pb31$1bsu$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
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>  Vise Grip welding clamps (I've had nothing but bad luck with the imports)
>  
>Safety

>  Welding helmet and gloves
>  Face shield for grinding and drilling
Suggest also earmuffs and at least a dust mask.

             John Robinson, Mechanician
  Mechanical Engineering University of Wisconsin
                1513 University Ave.
                 Madison, Wi. 53706
                    608-262-3606
                  FAX 608-265-2316
	Current World Land Speed Record Holder 
		Bonneville Salt Flats
   	  H/GCC 92 cu.in. 1980 Dodge Colt 
		  131.333 MPH set 1995
		  136.666 MPH set 1996




From kevin@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:42 EST 1996
Article: 44017 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:31:10 -0600
From: kevin@aquilagroup.com
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850418005.29828@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <32a3742b.76477689@news.iinet.net.au> <19961204165600.LAA03605@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ac970c.251955528@news.iinet.net.au> <58nk0j$7q0@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <58o370$cni@news.istar.ca>
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The strain of not contribuitng to this thread has finally 
become too much:

In article <58o370$cni@news.istar.ca>,
  "David Langlois" <langloid@magi.com> wrote:

> In the airplane museum here in Ottawa are cut-away examples of the two
> types of radial engines (fixed cylinders, and rotating cylinders).

Speaking of museums:  No reader of this NG should pass through Pheonix 
without stopping in at the Flying Aces Museum (? or something just like that ?) 
at Falcon field (airport) in Mesa, AZ ( a 'burb of Pheonix). I visited several
years back, and If I don't accidently go to Pheonix soon, I will make a special
pilgramage to see it again. Here' why:

Amongst other treasures they had a P&W R-4360 (_two_ actually, but one is 
hidden under the cowl of a "very limited production" Corsair).
For the non-airheads, thats a 4360 CID, supercharged, 28 cyl. radial 
(4 banks of 7)I forget the HP, rating, but 3,500 HP seems familier.
A discussed-to-death-in-this-thread Gnome rotary is in good view on 
an uncowled WW1 vintage (? was it a Spad maybe ?) fighter, and there 
was an  Allison only a few feet from the "do not cross" ropes.  

There are two hangers _full_ of aircraft, one WWII, and the other WWI. 
Highlights for me were a Spitfire, FW-190, the above mentioned 
Corsair-on-steroids, the ornothopter-looking Taub (WW1 german design approach),
P-51, and a P-38.  All A/C are maintained in sound mechanical, and pristine 
cosmetic condition, and many, I understand, are even flown on (VERY) rare 
occasions.  They all have REAL engines dripping REAL oil! Must be a sign of 
my sickness, but no centrefold comes even close to the sex appeal of these 
machines.

Finally, as if the aircraft weren't enough, there is a BIG bank-type vault (open 
during viewing hours) stuffed to the gills with machine-guns.  
(don't tell Mr. Clinton!) Every type you've ever heard of, and many you haven't
(prototypes, etc.) is represented.  Each has accompanying information which has
NOT been edited for the layman.(is it just me that hates "dumbed down" 
explainations?).  None of the guns I saw hd been cut, welded, or otherwise 
ruined.

Oh, yes..they have biographys and memorabilia from all pilots (all countries 
represented) who ever earned the title of "Ace". Hence the name of the museum.
I bet this stuff would be interesting if it stood alone, but who could tell 
with all those neat machines in the next rooms?

Anyway, that's my vote for the planet's best museum.(non-US flamers note, I HAVE
seen some extent of the planet) Off-topic, I suppose, but I'm guessing this museum's 
collection will appeal to the interests (if not the erotic fantasies) of anyone
who reads this NG.  Arning, if you take your wife with you, one of you will 
probably be unhappy when you leave. ( which of you depends on if it is sooner, 
or later)

ciao, Kevin.


-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:17:43 EST 1996
Article: 44018 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ian W. Wright" <Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:30:52 +0000
Organization: watchman
Lines: 30
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <oQPTSAA8tGsyEwUt@iw63.demon.co.uk>
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 <19961210020201.VAA01177@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961210020201.VAA01177@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes
>Someone just recently mentioned a heatable film that goes between the work
>and the mill table or vice. You heat with a heat-gun to stick and the same

I use 'Superglue' (cyanoacrylate) extemsively for holding things to
machine them. Admittedly I'm only working on watches and small clocks
but I don't see any reason why the same stuff won't work on larger
sizes. The only thing is that you need to be able to heat the work up a
bit to get the glue to release - probably to about 200 deg. F or so. If
you are going to try this, make sure you have degreased your mounting
surface well first with Acetone or the glue will not stick. The Acetone
also seems to act like a kind of accelerator on the glue. You may find
it easier to stick a scrap metal plate onto your work and then clamp
this plate onto the machine. Working with watch size pieces I often have
to glue the bit I'm making onto a bigger piece of metal to use as a
handle so I can actually manipulate it. I almost always use superglue
nowadays.

HTH,
Ian.
-- 

Ian W. Wright LBHI
Elected National Council Member and Sheffield Branch Chairman of the British
Horological Institute. 
Bandmaster of the Hathersage Brass Band.
See our homepage at:- http://www.GeoCities.com/Hollywood/6067/index.html

'Music is the filling of regular time intervals with harmonious oscillations.'


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:44 EST 1996
Article: 44019 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-30.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:34:07 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32b0b184.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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randyr@ibm.net wrote:



>These "cans" that I have are the same footprint as the old standard .50 cal. cans
>you see quite often, but taller. The dimensions are 5 1/4" across, 11 1/8" deep,
>and 16 1/4" tall. They held "8-60mm cartridges". I bought them from a army/navy
>store when I lived in NC (near Ft. Bragg). I have gotten them for as low as $5 and
>seen them as high as $20. Make a nice rod holder. Just set it up on the bench
>on it's side, drop the lid down, and you have a  multi-rod dispensor.

>Randy Ray
>IBM / ISSC
>Smart Home Architect
>Utilities Industry
>randyr@ibm.net

That sounds like "Just The ticket".  I'll keep my eyes open.

Thanks
Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:46 EST 1996
Article: 44020 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:48:23 GMT
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ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>On Tue, 10 Dec 1996 17:37:46 -0800, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>>I use Agent .... (not Free Agent) ... and as stated above it ONLY
>>works for newsgroups. With email you can set up filing filters so you
>>could create a folder called 'junk' and have the unwanted email
>>direted that way but you still end up receiving it and you will need
>>to delete the stuff manually.

>Sorry about that, Chief!  And I "knew" you were using Agent, just
>forgot that it doesn't actually "kill" e-mail, but it can junk them,
>as you say.  Maybe they'll have this in Agent v1.0.

>Scott Logan
>ssl@loganact.com
>www.loganact.com

They just sent an E-mail to all network users from the IT
group at my work (Boeing North Americal) work about some
mail message that is heading around the Internet with the
subject like that talks about "Pen Pals".  "Pen Pal
Greetings, or close to that.  If you get one like that,
don't open it, delete with out reading!

The warning at work indicated it is a carrier for the Trojan
Horse Virus and will almost certainly destroy all your data,
and will also try to propigate itself from your PC to all
the others for which it finds addresses on your hard disk.

They don't  joke about things like  this on 5,000 user
networks so I tend to take it seriously.

Fitch






From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:47 EST 1996
Article: 44021 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!netaxs.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <19961212200600.PAA12704@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32AF3898.7D6F@hre.com>
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <32AF3898.7D6F@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:

>> >YOu shoulda called me last week! Me & AnDy PoPkY sold a bunch of Time 
>machine stuff to some guy from rec.brewing!
>
>

Could he be recycling?

Peter



From jesw@mitre.org Tue Dec 17 14:17:48 EST 1996
Article: 44022 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!bone.think.com!blanket.mitre.org!news.mitre.org!m21664-mac.mitre.org!user
From: jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:59:13 -0400
Organization: Mitre
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References: <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: m21664-mac.mitre.org

In article <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

> I have a small quantity of Spaceship grade aluminum scrap for sale. 
> Email me for prices.
> 
> Jim"Spaceranger" Harvey
> wayout@hre.com
> http://hre.com

>From  whose spaceships???

-- 
James Wilkins
The Mitre Corp.
Bedford, MA


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:50 EST 1996
Article: 44023 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:07:03 GMT
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In article <58o718$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

>motor's bearings.  You can mount a gear or belt pulley rigidly on a
>motor, but except in very unusual situations you should avoid rigid
>coupling a shaft to a motor.  The one place it is accepted is if the
>motor turns a thin shaft, which can flex to absorb angular and radial
>misalignment.  Then, however, you must accept a speed limitation on
>the motor/shaft, because this is a perfect setup to excite vibrations
>in the thin shaft.  Machine tool axis drives usualy turn slow enough
>to be well below critical speed.
>	

If the motors were turning at any apprecianble speed then perhaps you
might be right, these are stepper motors and I doubt they will  be much
above about 300-500 and rarely at that.

Peter



From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:17:52 EST 1996
Article: 44024 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: list of fame companies
Date: 12 Dec 1996 02:42:57 GMT
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McDonnell Douglas?? You gotta be kidding! There's two places I wouldn't let
my daughter work, and one of 'em is MAC. Les Whitaker (29 yrs and out the
door...)



From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:53 EST 1996
Article: 44025 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Diamond laps & files
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 16:35:55 -0700
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In article <E2AtLF.F40@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>,
ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner) wrote:

> The old time watchmakers made diamond laps & files as required.  This 
> often required them to smash a diamond with a hammer!  Today, most rock 
> hobby shops have vials of graded diamond dust.  The old timers hammered the
> diamond powder into pieces of sheet copper.
> -- 
> Steve. 
> 
> ******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************

What wonderful tidbit. It gave me an idea...
As a youngster I polished a telescope mirror blank using jewelers rouge on
a "tool" formed from hot pitch against the ground blank. The testing
procedure (focault (sic)) involved analyzing interference patterns created
by a primitive pin hole light source and knife edge rig to correct the
surface. The surface of the pitch (or was it beeswax?) Was scored
selectively to raise it and the polish/test cycle repeated until the
surface was accurate (within 1/4 wavelength of visible light was claimed
possible) or your arms gave out. All the stuff came from Edmond Scientific
Co. It may be possible to produce a useful lapping surface by adapting
some of those techniques. Start with a good optical flat (or the shape you
need) like a front surface mirror from an junk photocopier. Apply a
release agent like PVA or wax. Spray a coat of lacquer and dust with the
graded diamond while still wet. Shake off the extra. Put this in a plastic
bag and the bag around a shop vacuum inlet and draw a little vacuum to
produce intimate contact with the surface. The bag should press on both
sides of the mirror evenly. After it's dry, coat with epoxy and bond to a
suitably rigid base. After its cured the mirror should release and the
lacquer can be removed with thinner. The lapped surface being developed
can be coated with glycerin to make it reflective enough for the optical
testing as needed. Maybe this will put the high precision guys onto
something.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:54 EST 1996
Article: 44026 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Filling holes in charms?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 21:36:33 GMT
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One other technique would require quite a bit of setup, but should work
pretty well:  (hey, this is all theoretical--no guarantees written or
implied).

Get either some brass powder or a chunk of brass and a file (I'd guess you
could find brass powder at an art supply store or a gilder's supply.

Then, mix 'some' brass powder in a 30 minute epoxy.  Get enough powder to look
like brass, but keep the mixture more like a paste than a clump.  Then, using
small tools (a toothpick comes to mind) pack the hole with brass/epoxy
mix.  Try not to smear the mixture--it'll clean off with acetone before
it cures, but afterward, you'd need to heat it to soften the epoxy.

To get a guesstimate for the epoxy/powder mixture, go to a hobby shop and
look at the microbeads they use for fillers.  While you're at it, get some
30 minute epoxy.  (I like the stuff made by Bob Smith, but it's usually sold
under the store's own name.)  Resist the temptation to go for the 120 minute
stuff--it's too runny for your purpose.  The 30 minute goop is well suited
to fillers.

I've done the microbead stuff, but not with brass.  I *think* it will work.
Probably cost about $10 for the epoxy.  Dunno about the brass powder.

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:55 EST 1996
Article: 44027 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB:  Die Filer
Date: 12 Dec 1996 21:47:00 GMT
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Steve Wellcome (wellcome@helix.shr.dec.com) wrote:
: I noticed in the last issue of Home Shop Machinist that
: Metal Lathe Accessories is now selling a die filer kit

One of our club members was building his from the kit.  Seemed to be
some very nice castings, though he had some concerns about the linkage
to the table from the housing.  It looked like it could be beefed up,
though.

Pete Brooks




From frank@newshost.dsea.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:57 EST 1996
Article: 44028 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: COMPLETE drill chart please!
Date: 12 Dec 1996 13:43:07 -0800
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I get a varitety of metric and inch nuts, bolts, taps and drills.  What
I'd like is a chart that holds both metric and inch drills and taps and
shows the hole size for every drill in both thousandths of and inch and
millimeters.

The columns would be
drill name;tap name;inch size of hole;mm size of hole

With such a chart, I might be able to mix and match my limited supply
of drills and taps so various metric taps could be used with inch
drills, or the reverse.

Perhaps two extra columns could be added, something like 'delta from
previous, inches', and the same in metric.  This way, it would
be easy to see just how far out a particular metric drill might be
>from  a particular (close) inch drill.

Anybody have such a chart?

-- 
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From davide@rational.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:58 EST 1996
Article: 44029 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davide@rational.com (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: 13 Dec 1996 02:51:36 GMT
Organization: Rational Software Corporation
Lines: 31
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In article <19961212155100.KAA05571@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
 <pnpnolan@aol.com> wrote:
>In article <58mol0$2k2@rational.rational.com>, davide@rational.com (David
>Erickson) writes:

>>I'm looking for a source for flat-ended scrapers, the kind that take
>>replaceable blades, preferrably carbide tipped.

>I've scraped many a lathe and mill bed with a 12" flat file.

Well, Peter, not to bring up the Jet controversy again (grin), but
if you've restored lathes worthy of restoration, why would you buy a
piece of junk like that in the first place?

>Using the side of the grinder remove the file teeth and you have an
>excellent scraper for beds.

The scrapers with the replaceable blades have thinner more flexible blades, 
which gives you more control.  I've used both, and I've made my own carbide
tipped scrapers out of an old file by brazing on an insert.  I still prefer
the kind with replaceable blades.

I had one response that suggested Enco as a source for the replaceable blade
models.  Now if I could just find an Enco catalog (they usually end up in
the trash).

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Erickson    Technical Support Engineer    Rational Software Corporation
email: davide@rational.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:17:59 EST 1996
Article: 44030 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" South Bend
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:14:33 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 37
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On 8 Dec 1996 01:30:41 GMT, white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White, SMO
Administration - 63552) wrote:

>I recently purchased a 9" South Bend Lathe, model "c". It came without
>a motor. It also came without any printed information. Can anyone tell 
>me what horsepower and speed motor I should install?

Ed,

For whatever reason, your post took 4 days to reach my news server.

That lathe should probably have about a 1/2hp motor.  South Bend Lathe
can certainly help with manuals, I think they are about $20.

South Bend Lathe Corp.  (South Bend Lathes)
400 W. Sample St.
South Bend, IN 46601-2892
Tel. 219-289-7771
Fax  219-236-1210

Also, many parts can be had from used machinery dealers.  I have a
list I'll e-mail you if you like, but I'd rather not clutter up the
ng.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:01 EST 1996
Article: 44031 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:59:26 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
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To: VAntonova <vantonova@aol.com>

VAntonova wrote:
> 
> I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
> that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. ...

Get a clampon ammeter on the line and see what amps the unit is pulling.
If below the nameplate it SHOULD be safe.  If at or above the nameplate
amps start looking for the problem.
 
-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From semeiks2@albany.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:02 EST 1996
Article: 44032 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: semeiks2@albany.net (Randall Semeiks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Building Tools..
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 03:41:44 GMT
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Has anybody built the machine tools from the "Build your own Metal
Working Shop from Scrap" series by Dave Gingery offered by Lindsay
Publications?  I have these books but have not started construction
yet.  I was wondering how difficult they actually are to build.  And
if anybody else has seen these books, what is your opinion on them?



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:03 EST 1996
Article: 44033 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:39:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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  Ok I finally clicked as to what might work for you. As far as the spacer
goes I would probably try the pipe method. But I just remembered how I
made a flexible coupling for a sander. I'm not real sure if this will be
stiff enough for this application but you might remember it for somthing
else. What I did was make two sleeves about 2" long and 1 1/4" dia.  one
for the motor and one for the sander. I turned about 1" down to where it
would be a very tight fit on a piece of stiff one inch hose that I had. I
then knurled the place that the hose would slip on. What I did was add
about 3 or 4" of hose to the sleeves and used wire wrapped and twisted
tight for the hose clamps. Voila one flexible coupling that didn't cost a
penny. What I'm thinking is that if you can find a piece of rubber or
extra thick hose making it about 1" or 2" in diameter. And if you keep the
two sleeves really close there really wouldn't be that much flex to the
whole thing. But maybe there would be just enough to allow free operation
without being too flexible on the rotation. Somthing like hydraulic hose
would be pretty stiff but I don't know if it would work. You would still
need to keep the shafts lined up as close as possible but you could
probably be off as much as a thousandth or so and it still work. 

 I have also come across somthing that could be made in the home shop
fairly simply that might do the trick. It might be a little hard to
describe but if you will give me a little while I will try to come up with
something.


   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From davide@rational.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:05 EST 1996
Article: 44034 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: davide@rational.com (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 23:54:07 GMT
Organization: Rational Software Corporation
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In article <58o718$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu>,
Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
>pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>: Yeah, that's where I started Fitch, I managed about 0.0015 but it was
>: enough to load the lead screw slightly. That 0.0015 at the bolt circle
>: diameter of 4-1/4 (I think without going an measuring) translated into a
>: significant angular displacement. May have to pay the money for those
>: couplings yet.

>If .0015" does not allow the motor to turn the shaft/screw smoothly, you
>shouldn't be using a hard, direct coupling.

I agree with Jon, but I also would suspect that you have an alignment
problem other than the .0015" difference in spacer height.  When you
move the spacers around,  does the tight spot remain in the same place?
Does the location and tightness of the fit vary depending on how much
the screw is driven into the nut?   Are the motor and the nut aligned?
Is the leadscrew bent?

Dave

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Erickson    Technical Support Engineer    Rational Software Corporation
email: davide@rational.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From borris@sgi.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:07 EST 1996
Article: 44035 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: borris@sgi.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shoptask Multipurpose Machine
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:37:55 GMT
Organization: Stargate Industries, Inc.
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Need information regarding the Shoptask Lathe,Mill,Drill machine. I.E.
What is the quality of the machine? How does it compare with the
SMITHY multipurpose machine? What hobbies/business are you performing
with this machine? Appreciate your help.

Regards,

Borris



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:08 EST 1996
Article: 44036 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: musical lathe
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 08:01:49 -0500
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Abrasha wrote:
> 
> > >yes we have the complete set, but i am going
> > >to Montana to have some dental work done
> > >call me after the holidays
> > >i will put a hold on it for you
> > >
> > >regards
> > >ap
> 
> After you have yer teeth fixed, have pancakes at Saint Alphonzo, but DON'T EAT THE
> YELLOW SNOW.
> 
> Then, for a good time, give Dinah-Moe Humm a call.  Tell her Abrasha sent ya.  She'll
> treat ya well.
> 
> Abrasha
> http://www.abrasha.com


yes i will call her, but can she still make you come?

ap


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:10 EST 1996
Article: 44037 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:30:27 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32b0b0a7.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:

<snip>

>Did I stumble into alt.flame.os.war? 

No.

Fitch



From dmatt@roch875.mc.xerox.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:11 EST 1996
Article: 44038 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dmatt@roch875.mc.xerox.com (Dave Matthews)
Subject: SAE 10?
Message-ID: <1996Dec13.014755.7724@news.wrc.xerox.com>
Sender: news@news.wrc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:47:55 GMT
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The manual for my old Craftsman lathe calls for 
SAE 10 weight for most of the lube and Keystone
122 Outboard Gear Lube for the gears.  I assume 
that I can use any 90w something gear lube for
the gears but what is the current equiv for SAE 10?
Is this 3-in-1 weight?  The lathe is in excellent
shape and I don't want to screw it up.

Dave


From poppke@plains.nodak.edu Tue Dec 17 14:18:12 EST 1996
Article: 44039 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: poppke@plains.nodak.edu (David L Poppke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Miniature Blacksmith anvils WTB
Date: 12 Dec 1996 15:52:55 GMT
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Miniature promotional blacksmith anvils wanted to buy.

These are about 1 to 5 inches in length.

Usually made of iron, lead, steel, or copper.

They have a Company name and/or a Logo on them.

Let me know what you have for sale or trade.


David Poppke, WA0VFY                Email:       poppke@plains.nodak.edu
1418 Burntwood Court                Home Phone:  701-746-7841
Grand Forks, North Dakota 58201     24 Hr Fax:   701-777-3650


From steamer@west.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:13 EST 1996
Article: 44040 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: steamer@west.net (Edward Haas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: OPINION - Clausing 10 inch lathe
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:48:25 -0800
Organization: West.Net Communications
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	--IMO it's one of the finest lathes you could sink your claws 
into. I had one for a dozen years and only sold it when it was keep it 
and starve or sell it and eat. Felt like a samurai hocking my swords when 
I sold it. :-(
-- 
	"Steamboat Ed" Haas	:	Duravi, ergo	
	COMING EVENTUALLY	:	Impavidus Sum
	http://www.west.net/~steamer  	
		---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
	


From mmmikey@just.passin.by Tue Dec 17 14:18:14 EST 1996
Article: 44041 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mmmikey@just.passin.by
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:10:14 GMT
Organization: Cajun.Net
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32b42b1e.35235732@news.cajun.net>
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>In article <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>, Les Bartel <"(email me at)
>lbartel"@veribest.com> writes:
>
>>Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
>>inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
>>bits are sized in fractions of an inch.


Darex has what you want and more, good site for all to see.

http://www.darex.com/index.html

scroll down to :   Information-we got information	and click

scroll down to :  Tap Drill Size Chart               and click

print it out for reference


From vkruger@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:16 EST 1996
Article: 44042 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: vkruger@aol.com (VKruger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 01:07:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Some carburetors are aluminum, such as the Carter AFB (Aluminum Four
Barrel). But others are zinc castings, such as Rochester Quadrajets.So I
guess the answer is, "It depends". Several others have cast iron bases
(for use with heated manifolds) and zinc float bowls. And the Carter
Thermo-Quad has an aluminum base and a phenolic float bowl (reduces heat
transfer to the fuel to limit vapor lock and evaporative emissions).




From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:17 EST 1996
Article: 44043 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:34:04 -0700
Organization: Zip News
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.2.0b7

In article <32af050f.87706327@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:

> Donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:
> 
> 
> >Apple may have it's faults and problems, but they are making important
> >progress that people on the outside aren't aware of and aren't likely to
> >uncover in PC-Week.
> 
> And since people don't find out, Apple will go the same way that BETA
> VCR's went  (Beta was technologically better than VHS))
> 
That wouldn't have happened if:
1) BETA machines could play VHS tapes (Macs are very cross platform
enabled and the influence of the internet will drive a move toward open
standards)
2) Sony had licensed BETA to third parties (Several Mac clones are
available and more are on the way)
3) There were compelling niche markets (Macs excel in several key areas:
DTP, Multimedia, 3D etc.) 
4) BETA had a large installed base of loyal users.

> >My apologies for the rant but misconceptions are rampant and every now and
> >then I need to vent. I don't mean to discount the capabilities of PC's as
> >they are great machines for many things but don't assume market share and
> >herd instinct to be the only measure of success; particularly when
> >powerful unseen forces are presenting statistics designed to manipulate
> >rather than inform. The common perception is rarely accurate nor is the
> >lowest common denominator the best solution for an individual need. 
> 
> True, but sometimes you got to go with the flow or you'll be extinct
> by the time you get where you want to be.
>
Are we mice(or lemmings--I couldn't resist :) or men? If and when a
superior solution, for me, comes along I'll gladly adopt it. Meanwhile,
Macs and PC's
both benefit from the competition. Apple is a driving force for open
standards and cross-platform computing, unlike the wintel crowd who are
intent on owning the technology that will give them a monopoly. Do you
think that you would be using as good a machine as you do if not for apple
pushing the envelope? 
> 
> >BTW the next time one of those nasty virii infects your PC seek out a Mac
> >to format clean floppies. I have a friend who admins a large PC network
> >and told me that he keeps an old Mac around just for the purpose.
> 
> Contrary to popular opinion, Macs can be attacked by virii as well.
> The one saving grace for Mac and virii is that since the Mac is too
> expensive
>
Not anymore! You haven't been listening

> and the hackers that write virii are smart, they don't tend
> to buy Macs ...
>
Ahh, the criminal mind. I thought they wrote them because their platform
was so boring they had nothing better to do.

> (and if you didn't like that cheap shot, you could also take it as
> saying that since the VAST majority of PC's out there are IBM based,
> that's where the VAST majority of virii will be .... )
>
It has much more to do with the disk/file, I/O, and API differences. Macs
can be attacked but the consequences aren't as severe (no data loss) so It
isn't as much fun for the would-be sabatour
> 
> And BTW, since I am ranting, it is generally held by Mac zealots that
> IBM's crash and Mac's run solid ... let me assure you that Mac's crash
> too !!!
>
Oh Yeah!  :(
> 
> I happen to like IBM but it all depends on what software one wants to
> run. A computer is a door stop without software and if a killer app
> comes along that is only available on Mac's and it is something I
> needed, I wouldn't hesitate to switch (or more likely add) boxes ....
> the box makes really no difference in the overall picture.
>
I couldn't agree more, I have a PC and a Sun but I use the Mac for almost
everything because I like better.

> Regards
> 
> Jens


From ranson@infoave.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:18 EST 1996
Article: 44044 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ranson@infoave.net (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Making your own flux for hard soldering
Date: 13 Dec 1996 02:26:34 GMT
Organization: Info Avenue INTERNET Access
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We start with Denatured Alchol about 4oz then add 2T of boric acid and 2T of 
boraz. Put the liquid in a small glass bottle and loosely capit. Place in a 
pan of water on the stove and heat to just below the boiling point. Stur the 
liquid until the alachol is completely saturated. When finished there should 
be some borax left in the bottom, if not you did'nt put enough in. So put some 
more in and heat again.

Next we make another flux with distiled water instead of alachol, using the 
same process as above.

We then dip the entire piece in the flux, set on the solder block and burn off 
the alachol. Then only add a very small ammount of the water flux on the join.

Ranson
http://www.ro.com/av/gems


From edward@locutus.us.dell.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:19 EST 1996
Article: 44045 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!natinst.com!news-relay.us.dell.com!locutus.us.dell.com!edward
From: edward@locutus.us.dell.com (Edward Godwin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 13 Dec 1996 15:26:19 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
Lines: 38
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58rsir$7lp@starlifter.us.dell.com>
References: <57s9vq$dou@news.usit.net> <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net> <58hded$53@starlifter.us.dell.com> <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: locutus.us.dell.com

In article <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net>, Randy Knott <randy@intnet.net> writes:
|> Paul Amaranth wrote:
|> > 
|> > I saw a short description of cold welding in the new Strictly IC.  Pretty
|> > simple, actually, at least in concept.
|> > 
|> > Also, some time ago, there was an illustration of repairing a Jaguar
|> > E-Type block (these are irreplaceable and worth close to their weight
|> > in gold) using this technique in a Jaguar restoration magazine.
|> > The crack went right through the serial number.  When they were finished
|> > you couldn't even tell there had been a crack there.
|> > 
|> > I think the recommendation was to check with either diesel or marine
|> > repair shops for expertise.
|> > 
|> > --
|> > Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
|> > Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
|> > paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services
|> 
|> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
|> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need to
|> hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
|> Clint

I would settle with finding one of these guys.  I have some cast iron parts
that need repair.  If they guarantee their work, why not give it a try?

I hope that the original poster(s) to this thread, or someone who has had
recent contact with one of these individuals will post some contact information.

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
Edward Godwin                         |  "Stupidity is always a capital crime."
edward@locutus.us.dell.com            |         - Larry Niven _N-Space_
________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:  My opinions are not presented as remotely related, or similar to,
the opinions of my employer.  They can make up their own minds.......       


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:21 EST 1996
Article: 44046 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FrankenLathe - first cut
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:39:46 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <hanrahan.310.32B01395@oasys.dt.navy.mil>,
hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan) writes:

>In article <19961205015501.UAA15297@ladder01.news.aol.com>
lwc1220@aol.com 
>writes:
>
>>  They do make a 1/4-20 grease zert. We have a box of them at the shop.
We
>>got ours from the local NAPA auto parts but you should be able to find
>>them at any good hardware or parts store.
>
>I called my local NAPA auto parts store, used the phone, the thing
without a 
>keyboard :-) They said they did not have them, and their book did not
list
>the 
>1/4-20. Must be a different level of store...
>
>I also checked McMaster Carr, my local ACE hardware, no luck so far.
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
>  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA
>
>
>

  I will see what I can do about liberating some. I havn't looked very
much though I did notice them in a kit sold by MSC when you first asked
about them. I will have to double check but I could of sworn that they are
1/4 20s. Let me know where to send them and we can work things out. 

 Lets see....., Oh I guess they shouldn't be worth more than there weight
in gold. Whats gold going for now days. :-)

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:22 EST 1996
Article: 44047 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!node2.frontiernet.net!Empire.Net!news3.agis.net!agis!cancer.vividnet.com!hunter.premier.net!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!140.174.86.1!hoho.quake.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:39:11 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B1243F.CC9@abrasha.com>
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woofter@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a newsgroup which deals exclusively with steam engines.
> My on line server says there aren't any but I find that hard to belive.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Bob


I don't know about "exclusively", but I'm almost certain you can find a lot of what you 
are looking for in: rec.models.railroad,  bit.listserv.railroad, rec.models.rc.misc, 
and alt.railroad.

I got these newsgroups from dejanews.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:23 EST 1996
Article: 44048 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-atl-21.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!usenet
From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:28:26 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <58ptm0$vh0@nw101.infi.net>
References: <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net> <felice.368.32AF5997@pioneer.net>
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felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) wrote:

>In article <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net> creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) writes:

>>Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
>>chucks, tooling?

>>Jim Waggener
>Jim, 
>In "Metalworking for Craftsmen" by Oppi Untracht (which, knowing you do 
>jewelry and such is a book you should have) there is a step by step 
>photosequence and text that pretty much explains the basics.

I thank you for the info. Unracht's book is one I've been looking for,
it ain't cheap but what the heck.

A small correction, I don't do jewelry. I work holloware and flatware.
Its a whole different animal.

Thanks again,

Jim Waggener



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:24 EST 1996
Article: 44049 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:41:29 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32b0b33d.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <stagesmith-1212960201090001@cust53.max25.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net> <32B034F9.7921@cc.com>
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"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:

<snip>

>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.

>-- 
>Steven O. Smith
>steve@cc.com

I have heard the same thing about MIG welding.  Most of my
structural welding is on stuff that is easy to stick weld,
so that is what I do.  The top rail on my arena fence
though, used .068 NR211 and was that nice.  I had the BG
Earnie was talking about all day!

Fitch



From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:25 EST 1996
Article: 44050 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Worm Gear and Worm for dividing table
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:39:29 GMT
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In article <felice.369.32AFAA3D@pioneer.net>, felice@pioneer.net (Felice
Luftschein & Nicholas Carter) writes:

>
>Hey, I'd like to build a rotary table in the 4-6" range and am wondering
if 
>anyone has a 30, 40, 60 or other useful division of 360 tooth worm gear
and 
>matching worm. Maybe you bought it to make a table yourself and before
you 
>finished you came across a used table for $2 at a garage sale, maybe you
are 
>just a gear collector, or maybe you happen to have a bunch of useful junk

>around. Anyway, if you can help me out or know of a cheaper than new one
for 
>sale elsewhere, please respond.
>
>Yes, I know I could make the gear, but I'd have to finish another
dividing 
>head on the lathe, make a hob, or tooth cutter and this is all to finsh 
>another project anyway which just requires the table...
>
>

  You might try to find one that goes in a worm gear drive tiller. I have
one that is for that and if I remember rightly it is 30 teeth. And it is
about the right size. I don't know about getting one out of a well used
tiller but one that hasn't been used much would probably be ok. Oh and
sorry the one that I have is not for sale. I aquired it back when I worked
in a hardware store. It was one that had been there for a long time and 
was not wanted anymore. I had always planned to make a rotory table or
something else out of it but never got around to it. Now I have a 6"
rotory table but I may use it on a winch or for a slip roll. Not sure yet.
:-)

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:27 EST 1996
Article: 44051 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 17:56:46 -0700
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In article <58pq3v$vig@news.doit.wisc.edu>, john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu wrote:

> >  Vise Grip welding clamps (I've had nothing but bad luck with the imports)
> >  
> >Safety
> 
> >  Welding helmet and gloves
> >  Face shield for grinding and drilling
> Suggest also earmuffs and at least a dust mask.
> 
You also want to keep the hot flying blobs of stuff from going in your
boots (leather), down your collar (welding suppliers have special
"ski-mask" like hoods that also help with the stuff that wants to hand on
top of your head) or up your sleeves (gauntlets that are long enough).
Breathing any of the fumes is bad-berries especially if you weld anything
that's cad plated (not recommended). As your skills improve the pops and
resultant molten barrage subsides. Avoid synthetic clothing (melts) except
the special stuff from the jobber. Leather is hard to beat and I made a
usefull bib out of old leather coat from a thrift store cut down and worn
backwards. Have fun!


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:28 EST 1996
Article: 44052 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:28:37 GMT
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<SNIPED lots of stuff for bandwidth reasons>
>Hey Guys,
>	I bought about a half dozen of the enco bimetal blades and
>while they stayed sharp and cut great at the high speed pulley setting,
>they all broke prematurely due to fatigue.  I mean they formed cracks
>all around the blade simultaniously, not just in one place.  The small
>cut off saws flex the heck out of the blades due to the small wheel 
>radius and twisting of the blade by the guides.  I've just used the cheap 
>ones ever since.  Maybe I'll give the MSC blades a shot.
>Clint

Ok.  How fast should one run the bimetal blades anyway?  I
run my saw dry to reduce the mess of coolent dripping off
the ends of the metal all over the garage floor or driveway.

I thought I was making the blades last longer by running it
slow.  it is that using the bimetal blades I should be
running it on possibly its highest speed?  I lose Starrett
bimetal blades at the rate of one every couple owf weeks
when diong heavy cutting - they end up with no teeth on them
at all, look  just like the strapping used for shipping
things.  (At that point, being totally frivolous with my
money, I throw the danged useless bimetal thing away and
don't bother to file new teeth on it in a burst  of
misguided thrift <G>).

I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.

Fitch




From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:18:28 EST 1996
Article: 44053 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 13 Dec 1996 05:49:24 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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VAntonova (vantonova@aol.com) wrote:
: For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
: with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
: withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. I decided that the stuff
: used in the tubes which I am making the transmitter out of is the best,
: which is some sort of ceramic very similar to the clay used in clay pots.
: I decided to take a broken pot from the basement and try to mill it, with
: the obvious problem of chipping aand extreme dulling of the cutter. I need
: a fairly precise cut for maximum heat transfer. I guess diamond bits will
: work, but I haven't seen any for sale, and I think they are very
: expensive. The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
: to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should I
: just give up? Thanks for any info.

Warning!  The ceramic used in high power transmitting tubes is often
Zirconia, (or Beryllia) which are highly toxic!  The dust is easily
absorbed in the lungs!  Don't even think of grinding these materials.
This ceramic is most likely VERY DIFFERENT from what is in clay pots!
Beryllia (Beryllium Oxide) is the best ceramic heat conductor, far better
than most metals (ie. Copper and Aluminum).  It also makes a great
insulator.

I don't think you will have any luck getting brazing to stick to ceramic.
Diamond wheels will cut these and other ceramics quite well.  the trick
is to keep the wheel and workpiece cooled with a mist (or dribble) of
water.  I ground vee grooves in glass for a friend's project using a
thin diamond resin-bonded disc.  Once we got the trick to apply water
in the correct way, it went very well and quickly, with minimal chipping.
The diamond wheel was absolutely untouched by the grinding work.

Whether the cuts are rough or smooth, for best heat transfer, a heat
transfer medium which fills the voids and unevenness between the two
surfaces must be used.  At low temperatures, zinc oxide in silicone oil
is used (heat sink grease).  There should be a special version of this
for higher temperatures.  If the cut surface is not smooth, it can be
lapped smooth with a flat plate and carbide sandpaper.  Lay the sandpaper
face up on the flat plate, wet it, and rub the surface to be smoothed
across the sandpaper.  Start with a coarse sandpaper, and follow with
finer grades.  This goes much faster than you might imagine, as long as
the sandpaper grit is harder than the work material.

					Jon



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:30 EST 1996
Article: 44054 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:49:47 GMT
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donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:

>In article <58pq3v$vig@news.doit.wisc.edu>, john@coefac.engr.wisc.edu wrote:

>> >  Vise Grip welding clamps (I've had nothing but bad luck with the imports)
>> >  
>> >Safety
>> 
>> >  Welding helmet and gloves
>> >  Face shield for grinding and drilling
>> Suggest also earmuffs and at least a dust mask.
>> 
>You also want to keep the hot flying blobs of stuff from going in your
>boots (leather), down your collar (welding suppliers have special
>"ski-mask" like hoods that also help with the stuff that wants to hand on
>top of your head) or up your sleeves (gauntlets that are long enough).
>Breathing any of the fumes is bad-berries especially if you weld anything
>that's cad plated (not recommended). As your skills improve the pops and
>resultant molten barrage subsides. Avoid synthetic clothing (melts) except
>the special stuff from the jobber. Leather is hard to beat and I made a
>usefull bib out of old leather coat from a thrift store cut down and worn
>backwards. Have fun!


All true and good advice.  I weld outdoors a lot.  I added a
leather back to my helmet to both keep the glare from making
it hard to see and to keep the hot stuff out of my hair
(well, where it used to be once upon a time - its thinner
there now, not all from burning!).

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:31 EST 1996
Article: 44055 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 07:06:47 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <is-1112961630140001@204.140.220.27>, is@infodial.net (Mark)
>writes:

>>20 Gal. tank
>>2hp
>>11.7 cfm
>>delivery 9cfm at 90psi
>>220v
>>25ft. hose
>>
>>

>All from only two horses? wow!

>Peter
>Still using 6.5 Sears HP to get 9 at 90.

He must have Draft horses.  I only get 6 cfm at 90 psi out
of my 2hp Sears.

Fitch
Maybe if I put on a bigger pulley and add some pedals ...
Maybe the heading horse would like some exercise ... I could
hook it to the hot walker, if I had a hot walker ... I could
make a hot walker if I had a place to put one .,. maybe with
cnc ... if Peter has cnc why does he need a compressor?  cnc
can do *Everything* ... even make sockets ... I need an
asprin!




From bingo@voicenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:33 EST 1996
Article: 44056 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliott <bingo@voicenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:09:25 GMT
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vantonova@aol.com wrote:
>
> Here goes my story. I saw a very nice 80 gallon 2-stage industrial
> compressor. Motor, plumbing, etc was missing. Price was $35. I had a 5HP
> motor. I went to Home Depot and bought a lot of pipe, even made a
> radiator. The only thing lest was the pressure switch, which I got from a
> surplus electronics store. It is labled as a "adjustable pressure switch
> 25-250 PSI". So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
> motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A fuse!
> What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.
my vote is you need a pressure switch with a differential or hysterisis
 as one fellow wrote.
  check ww grainger for one by furnas its about 35.00 and has adjustable
differential set points.
     elliott



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:18:34 EST 1996
Article: 44057 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze Polishing & Finishing
Date: 13 Dec 1996 06:03:03 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Ted Singleton (drum@iol.ie) wrote:
: I wish to build a table in Bronze. I have all the necessary equipment to
: machine the bronze such as Lathe and Milling machine. I need advise on how
: to polish the finished items. Is Bronze left to Tarnish or is Lacquered
: similar to Brass. I would appreciate any help.
: Ted (drum@iol.ie)

I'd macine it as smooth as possible, then lap it to a polish with wet
sandpaper and a flat plate to drive the sandpaper.  When you get a pretty
smooth finish, then use metal polish.  Most metal polishes have carnauba
wax, which protects the metal from tarnishing (for a while).
(Whoo - that's going to be one HEAVY table!)
						Jon



From jphelps@jlc.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:35 EST 1996
Article: 44058 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jphelps@jlc.net (J Phelps)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 13 Dec 1996 15:42:45 GMT
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At one time there was a motorcycle with a rotary engine.  If 
I recall correctly it was called a Meguiar and was made 
someplace in Europe.  The engine was mounted in the front 
wheel (the cylinders splayed out like spokes) and was a 
direct drive.  The cycle itself looked like a lounge chair 
on wheels and was steered with long, tiller like handlebars. 
 As one would expect, it was bump started and stopping meant 
killing the engine.  The magazine article that described it 
showed several pictures of the bike being ridden and noted 
that there must have been a lot less traffic when it was 
built.
Regards - Joel


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:18:36 EST 1996
Article: 44059 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: 13 Dec 1996 06:05:47 GMT
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Kurt Bjorn (pyroware@flash.net) wrote:
: Darn!  Those rec.brew guys get all the high-grade materials.  No wonder, a
: few beers and time is no longer relevant!  ;-)

Yeah, a friend of mine has an electron-beam welded Titanium sphere made
as a liquid Oxygen tank for the Gemini program.  AFTER making the vessel,
they then found out that titanium LOX vessels had exploded once or twice,
so, off to the scrap yard with it!  He makes a very nice beer in the
thing!
					Jon



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:37 EST 1996
Article: 44060 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Centaur Forge Catalog
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:34:06 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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> > Hello,
> >      I was wondering if anyone could tell me the address and phone number to
> > get ahold of  a current Centaur Forge Catalog..   Thanks.

I bought some books from them recently, and when I asked for a catalogue, I was told 
that I would receive one as soon as their new catalogue is published, which will be in 
the new year.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From Dennis Barton Tue Dec 17 14:18:39 EST 1996
Article: 44061 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dennis Barton
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Model Engines
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 16:13:32 GMT
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semeiks2@albany.net (Randall Semeiks) scrawled:

>Hello,

>I was wondering if anyone has any plans to make working model engines,
>sterling, steam, gas..perferably gas engines, but others as well.
>Please post here if you have plans or know where i can get some
>online..

>Thanks

Lindsay Publications has a lot of great books on this subject.
Order some books and give the vguy your money,  it's well worth it!

Dennis Barton


WeeSaul

***Challenge people to destroy something
and they will find a way to do it
                      - Robert Sommer***



From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 14:18:40 EST 1996
Article: 44062 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 17:08:58 -0600
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Please enlighten me:  What exactly is the process of "flame spraying" 
involve?  I've seen it mentioned lots, but never explained.

Thanks

Tom

On 7 Nov 1996, Jonathan M. Elson wrote:

> Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
> : I have read several posts related to regrinding a lathe bed to remove
> : wear.  My question is, is there some way to build it back up so that
> : the side effects don't become so bothersome?  
> 
> : For example, could one be flame sprayed to build it back up the few
> : thousands it needs and then regound back to stock or close enough
> : dimensions?
> 
> I've certainly heard of people diong this.  You get a VERY hard bed, too.
> 
> 
> 


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:41 EST 1996
Article: 44063 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:00:02 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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What's the point of this list?  I do not get the connection to rec.crafts.metalworking

Although, some of these companies use metal in some of their products, but that woudl be 
too easy.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:42 EST 1996
Article: 44064 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 17:26:40 GMT
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In article <58qifh$47s@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>,
rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>a propeller to blow air across the compressor? Come to think of it...My
>old compressor has spokes that do this. Could it be that yours does too
>but someone has put the pulley on backwards??
> 

Good thought....but fans is fans no matter which way you put them they
push the air the same way.

Peter



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:43 EST 1996
Article: 44065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: 13 Dec 1996 12:25:59 GMT
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Our problems with leveling have been that the concrete in the shop floor is too 
thin...  when the planer table movess, the concrete moves!

Regards, Mark



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:45 EST 1996
Article: 44066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:54 GMT
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In article <donahue-1212961419090001@snews.zippo.com>,
donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) writes:

I promised myself I would never get into another Mac/PC war but I cannot
let these slide by.

>That wouldn't have happened if:
>1) BETA machines could play VHS tapes (Macs are very cross platform
>enabled and the influence of the internet will drive a move toward open
>standards)

Why would you want to increasae complexity to display an inferior
format???

>2) Sony had licensed BETA to third parties (Several Mac clones are
>available and more are on the way)

Too little too late. Apple have only *just* realized the sense of this.
They bagan about 3-4 years back with very strict controls over structure
and pricing. That is why the first non-apple clones was almost more
expensive thanthe real things. Don't waste my time with that red herring!.


>3) There were compelling niche markets (Macs excel in several key areas:
>DTP, Multimedia, 3D etc.) 

So do PCs. Check out Ziff Davis publishing and ask what they produce over
90% of their publications on. Aint Macs. But then what would ZD know
anyway? While you are at it, ask IDG, the largest publisher of computer
mags in the world, same answer. Ask people who *know* and they opt forthe
best bang for the buck. Ask the arty esoterica and they will opt for the
highest price believing it is better. Duh!

>4) BETA had a large installed base of loyal users.

Now for the ducks in the barrel. Let me get this right. You are saying
that Macs would have been more successful if more people paid more money
just so Apple could stay in business. Get real sonny!

Peter
10-4, over and out!


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:46 EST 1996
Article: 44067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 13 Dec 1996 17:26:44 GMT
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In article <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:

>determined that Jim Had left a bottle of Diet Pepsi too close 
>to the Jet heater..........You did'nt think I was gonna KILL 
>MYSELF Over it didja?
>
>

Diet anything *will* killya!

Peter
Pumped on sugar and caffein.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:47 EST 1996
Article: 44068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:43 GMT
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In article <32B04DF5.F4F@voyager.net>, Suzette Perry
<after5studio@voyager.net> writes:

>Okay, so where do you guys get the ribbed straight edges needed for
>scraping machinery?
>
>

Don't know about ribbed ones but Starret have some nice ones. Aint cheap
tho'

Peter



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:48 EST 1996
Article: 44069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 07:06:47 -0800
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vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:

>For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
>with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
>withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F.

How about machineable ceramics ????

Jens


From t..krause@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:18:49 EST 1996
Article: 44070 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 08:38:19 -0600
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> I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
> is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
> be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
> mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
> the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.
> 
> --
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com

 I have owned a 110v/130amp Cebora (also sold by Daytona and others)
for about 5 years.
 My first big project other than some sheet metal work and basic stuff 
was a dirt track vintage stock car to run with a local club.
See the car at:http://www1.cedar-rapids.net/00000134/HOGNOSE.HTM
 This car started as a bare 50's pickup frame,I biult and welded 
everything--spring mounts,steering components,motor mounts etc.
Drove this thing 10 -15 races a year for three years,then scientifically
tested it on a concrete wall in the spring of '96--OUCH!!
 I bent and mangled everything,buckled leaf springs,bent the frame,
snapped one rear axle shaft,bent the axle housing back 8 inches etc.etc.
 One of the pictures shows some of the damage.
Not a broken weld anywhere!!Lots of broken pride,but I reassembled
everything and raced again,sold the car later for different reasons.
 This is not a project for a complete newbie but I probably don't 
have any more welding experience than the average home tinkerer,just be
careful,and test some of your welds first.
 Needless to say I have complete confidence in this $395 welder,It has
served me well.
Tom


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:51 EST 1996
Article: 44071 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:19:09 -0700
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In article <32af050f.87706327@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:

> Donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:
> 
> 
> >Apple may have it's faults and problems, but they are making important
> >progress that people on the outside aren't aware of and aren't likely to
> >uncover in PC-Week.
> 
> And since people don't find out, Apple will go the same way that BETA
> VCR's went  (Beta was technologically better than VHS))
> 
That wouldn't have happened if:
1) BETA machines could play VHS tapes (Macs are very cross platform
enabled and the influence of the internet will drive a move toward open
standards)
2) Sony had licensed BETA to third parties (Several Mac clones are
available and more are on the way)
3) There were compelling niche markets (Macs excel in several key areas:
DTP, Multimedia, 3D etc.) 
4) BETA had a large installed base of loyal users.

> >My apologies for the rant but misconceptions are rampant and every now and
> >then I need to vent. I don't mean to discount the capabilities of PC's as
> >they are great machines for many things but don't assume market share and
> >herd instinct to be the only measure of success; particularly when
> >powerful unseen forces are presenting statistics designed to manipulate
> >rather than inform. The common perception is rarely accurate nor is the
> >lowest common denominator the best solution for an individual need. 
> 
> True, but sometimes you got to go with the flow or you'll be extinct
> by the time you get where you want to be.
>
Are we mice(or lemmings--I couldn't resist :) or men? If and when a
superior solution, for me, comes along I'll gladly adopt it. Meanwhile,
Macs and PC's
both benefit from the competition. Apple is a driving force for open
standards and cross-platform computing, unlike the wintel crowd who are
intent on owning the technology that will give them a monopoly. Do you
think that you would be using as good a machine as you do if not for apple
pushing the envelope? 
> 
> >BTW the next time one of those nasty virii infects your PC seek out a Mac
> >to format clean floppies. I have a friend who admins a large PC network
> >and told me that he keeps an old Mac around just for the purpose.
> 
> Contrary to popular opinion, Macs can be attacked by virii as well.
> The one saving grace for Mac and virii is that since the Mac is too
> expensive
>
Not anymore! You haven't been listening

> and the hackers that write virii are smart, they don't tend
> to buy Macs ...
>
Ahh, the criminal mind. I thought they wrote them because their platform
was so boring they had nothing better to do.

> (and if you didn't like that cheap shot, you could also take it as
> saying that since the VAST majority of PC's out there are IBM based,
> that's where the VAST majority of virii will be .... )
>
It has much more to do with the disk/file, I/O, and API differences. Macs
can be attacked but the consequences aren't as severe (no data loss) so It
isn't as much fun for the would-be sabatour
> 
> And BTW, since I am ranting, it is generally held by Mac zealots that
> IBM's crash and Mac's run solid ... let me assure you that Mac's crash
> too !!!
>
Oh Yeah!  :(
> 
> I happen to like IBM but it all depends on what software one wants to
> run. A computer is a door stop without software and if a killer app
> comes along that is only available on Mac's and it is something I
> needed, I wouldn't hesitate to switch (or more likely add) boxes ....
> the box makes really no difference in the overall picture.
>
I couldn't agree more, I have a PC and a Sun but I use the Mac for almost
everything because I like better.

> Regards
> 
> Jens


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:52 EST 1996
Article: 44072 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58qgbo$m68@rational.rational.com>, davide@rational.com (David
Erickson) writes:

>Well, Peter, not to bring up the Jet controversy again (grin), but
>if you've restored lathes worthy of restoration, why would you buy a
>piece of junk like that in the first place?
>
>

Time! Never have enough of it. Needed to make parts *now*. Figured the Jet
would do it. Almost did. It certainly does now after some 30 hours of
extra work. <sigh>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:53 EST 1996
Article: 44073 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:45 GMT
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In article <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>, jesw@mitre.org
(James Wilkins) writes:

>How about cutting up a set of the cheap Enco 1-2-3 blocks?
>
>

I love this group! Neat idea but the problem is now solved. I am bolting
them to a face plate and turning them in sets of four. Good idea though. I
thought 1-2-3 blocks would be hardened but maybe some of the cheaper ones
aren't.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:54 EST 1996
Article: 44074 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:47 GMT
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In article <58q5uv$cqp@rational.rational.com>, davide@rational.com (David
Erickson) writes:

>I agree with Jon, but I also would suspect that you have an alignment
>problem other than the .0015" difference in spacer height.  When you
>move the spacers around,  does the tight spot remain in the same place?
>Does the location and tightness of the fit vary depending on how much
>the screw is driven into the nut?   Are the motor and the nut aligned?
>Is the leadscrew bent?
>
>

Scuse me guys but we aint talking watch machining equipment here. The lead
screw is 5/8 and so is the shaft on the motors. These are 1125oz-in
NEMA-43 motors! The only flexing here is my muscles to lift them.

0.0015 difference in height of the spacers *will* bind these suckers.

Peter



From codeng@power.co.za Tue Dec 17 14:18:56 EST 1996
Article: 44075 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: codeng@power.co.za
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 00:36:54 GMT
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Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net> wrote:

>Hi all,
>I saw a post here about  parting tools and skreeching (excessive noise 
>when cutting). I have experienced this in only one situation, That is 
>when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tubeof length 
>that requires a steady rest. I am pretty sure that I am lined up on 
>center but is this noise something that I should be concerned with?
>Will  it damage my machine?, cutting tools? The groove gets cut but it 
>sure hurts  me in more ways than one while doing it. Would excessive 
>runout cause this I am at about 600 rpm 6061 t-6 aluminum extruded 
>tubing. 
>This leads me to my next question-

>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this 
>application?

>Any help would be great.
>Thanks

>Tony
> tony.midea@moa.net

Tony

You Might try the following

Hold 1 end in the chuck

Use an insert with center hole (Pre Made to suit) or use a pipe center
to aid setting up the fixed steady. - set the steady to run over the
groove you wish to cut. Now back off the tailstock, remove the insert
(if used ) and set a grooving tool to run exactly under one of the
fixed steady pins. if your tool is held in a round boring bar with a
slotted clamp it will be easier to set to "center"  height. (Relative
to the center of the work)  either up or down from the usual position,
or upside down if you decide to use the pin at the back. Use suitable
lubricant for the steady - in abundence.

Good Luck. 



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:57 EST 1996
Article: 44076 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:39:56 GMT
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In article <850418005.29828@dejanews.com>, kevin@aquilagroup.com writes:

>Anyway, that's my vote for the planet's best museum.(non-US flamers note,
I
>HAVE
>seen some extent of the planet) Off-topic, I suppose, but I'm guessing
this
>museum's 
>collection will appeal to the interests (if not the erotic fantasies) of
>anyone
>who reads this NG.  Arning, if you take your wife with you, one of you
will 
>probably be unhappy when you leave. ( which of you depends on if it is
>sooner, 
>or later)
>
>

Thank you, thank you, thank you, but my wife is nuttier about these things
than I am. We may have to stay there a week and see who quits first. <g>

Peter



From russ@kepler-eng.com Tue Dec 17 14:18:59 EST 1996
Article: 44077 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <E2C7JL.Jpo@kepler-eng.com>
References: <19961211034800.WAA09828@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32af669d.1552782@netnews.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:35:44 GMT
Lines: 11

In article <32af669d.1552782@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
Roger Feeley <rfeeley@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Note:  Any of you jokers out there thinking of making one of these
>engines into a chainsaw, forget it.

Naaah - might make a nice drag saw, though.

-- 
Russ Kepler                                              russ@kepler-eng.com

                      Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From wwebster@nortel.ca Tue Dec 17 14:19:00 EST 1996
Article: 44078 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: wwebster@nortel.ca (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 07:57:26 -0500
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <wwebster-1312960757260001@47.116.15.87>
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In article <19961213042700.XAA28666@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

> In article <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:
> 
> >I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
> >asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
> >have for sale.
> >I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
> >Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
> >of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.
> >
> >
> 
> Ya don't fool me, I *know* you are holding out for a higher price!.


I think he's holding onto it for his own spacecraft!  He heard there was
an alien craft powered by 8 reindeer and wanted to do one better with his
own motor.  ;)))

regards.

-- 
Bill Webster   wwebster@nortel.ca


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:01 EST 1996
Article: 44079 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!panix!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 08:17:31 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32B1738B.2809@cyberhighway.net>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> ...
> He must have Draft horses.  I only get 6 cfm at 90 psi out
> of my 2hp Sears..........

His may be an older 2 hp (when the hp ratings were more up front...).

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From codeng@power.co.za Tue Dec 17 14:19:02 EST 1996
Article: 44080 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: codeng@power.co.za
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Electo-Polishing of Stainless Steel
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 23:19:46 GMT
Organization: The South African Internet Exchange.
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I Need to Polish  welds on small stainless steel components.
Grinding and Buffing is not possible (If the weld is ground then too
much material will be removed and failure will be likely)

I believe that Sulfuric and Phosporic acids together with DC current
can be used. 

Can Someone please advise what proportions and reccomend a suitable
current/voltage?

John Spargo

codeng@power.co.za



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:03 EST 1996
Article: 44081 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:40:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961213002500.TAA20839@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) writes:

>work, but I haven't seen any for sale, and I think they are very
>expensive. The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
>to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should
I
>just give up? Thanks for any info.
>
>

Why not make them out of clay and have them fired? Check for local pottery
clubs. The temperature range you need to withstand doesn't sound too high
for some readily available ceramic clays.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:05 EST 1996
Article: 44082 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:40:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 13
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In article
<Pine.SOL.3.91.961212170800.27616A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca>,
Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca> writes:

>Please enlighten me:  What exactly is the process of "flame spraying" 
>involve?  I've seen it mentioned lots, but never explained.
>
>

Saying you *like* Chinese lathes.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:05 EST 1996
Article: 44083 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:40:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b0b4db.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>The warning at work indicated it is a carrier for the Trojan
>Horse Virus and will almost certainly destroy all your data,
>and will also try to propigate itself from your PC to all
>the others for which it finds addresses on your hard disk.
>
>T

I can't see how mail text can become active as a virus Fitch. Not saying
it is not possible but having spent the odd few years with a compiler
(circa 1974) I can't see how it could replicate itself from text.

Text is benign, it can't go anywhere unless it becomes a program. Perhaps
if the text is UUENCODEd there could be an imbedded section that generates
the program, you would still need to run that program for it to *do*
anything.

Anyone who runs a new program without *first* checking it for viruses
deserves whatever they get.

Just reading the text could not cause any harm that I can see. It's a good
warning though, reminding us that viruses still abound out there and not
to run anything without first scanning it.

Peter



From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:07 EST 1996
Article: 44084 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!enews.sgi.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!LOCALNAME
From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 96 14:45:40 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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In article <19961213002500.TAA20839@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
   vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:
>For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
>with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
>withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. I decided that the stuff
>used in the tubes which I am making the transmitter out of is the best,
>which is some sort of ceramic very similar to the clay used in clay pots.
>I decided to take a broken pot from the basement and try to mill it, with
>the obvious problem of chipping aand extreme dulling of the cutter. I need
>a fairly precise cut for maximum heat transfer. I guess diamond bits will
>work, but I haven't seen any for sale, and I think they are very
>expensive. The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
>to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should I
>just give up? Thanks for any info.
>
>Alex.


The easiest way to machine ceramic is with a laser. Depending on what
your budget is for getting this done, it may be feasable if you require
great accuracy. (from my experience, most laser houses have about a
$100 minimum, not bad for getting it done perfect.) IF your interested,
I can e-mail you the names of a couple real good laser guys.



From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:08 EST 1996
Article: 44085 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jax.bellsouth.net!news.msy.bellsouth.net!news.mia.bellsouth.net!news.mindlink.net!nntp.portal.ca!news.bc.net!info.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:27:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <19961213000600.TAA20408@ladder01.news.aol.com> lwc1220@aol.com
writes: 
>
>In article <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) writes:
>
>> was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
>>that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
>>couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than
the
>>compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor
with
>>silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
>>much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.

    Just a thought:  Most compressors have a fairly large pulley...is
there anyway you could rig that pulley up so that it also functions as
a propeller to blow air across the compressor? Come to think of it...My
old compressor has spokes that do this. Could it be that yours does too
but someone has put the pulley on backwards??
                                                    Roger L.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:09 EST 1996
Article: 44086 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 17:26:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 35
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In article <19961213033800.WAA27378@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
lwc1220@aol.com writes:

>two sleeves really close there really wouldn't be that much flex to the
>whole thing. But maybe there would be just enough to allow free operation
>without being too flexible on the rotation. Somthing like hydraulic hose
>would be pretty stiff but I don't know if it would work. You would still
>need to keep the shafts lined up as close as possible but you could
>probably be off as much as a thousandth or so and it still work. 
>
> I have also come across somthing that could be made in the home shop
>fairly simply that might do the trick. It might be a little hard to
>describe but if you will give me a little while I will try to come up
with
>something.
>
>

Thanks Wayne, I have resolved the problem by bolting the spacers to a
faceplate and machining in sets of four. However I had started thinking
about a flexible coupling. I am investigating something along the lines
you have deescribed but using a hefty compression spring instead of hose.

The spring I am trying is very very stiff but it flexes longitutudinaly
reasonably easily. I am hoping this will give me a fixed rotational drive
but allow for misalignment.

More later after I apply power to the steppers to see if one inch equals
one inch.

I'd be interested to hear about the 'other' method too. Maybe a rough
sketch in Paintbrush and attach to an email.

Peter



From nojunkmail@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:10 EST 1996
Article: 44087 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!news.mco.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: nojunkmail@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 13:32:59 -0500
Organization: No Junk E-mail
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32B1A15B.19E0@hotmail.com>
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> In article <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
>  G'day,
> 
>  Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
>  NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
>  diameter hole through them.

[big snip]

A wise old philosopher once suggested even a fish wouldn't get in
trouble if he kept his mouth shut, perhaps I should follow that advise
but I can't help but wonder out loud about this problem.  Why, one would
not use some shim stock in conjunction with some undersized and less
than perfect spacers to bring the motor into alignment? My guess is that
the motor mounting flange is no better than +/- 0.005" under the best of
circumstances so what good is a spacer that's +/- 0.0000000? 

Is there something I'm missing. 

pht
curious to know


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:11 EST 1996
Article: 44088 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: musical lathe
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:03:38 -0800
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> >yes we have the complete set, but i am going
> >to Montana to have some dental work done
> >call me after the holidays
> >i will put a hold on it for you
> >
> >regards
> >ap

After you have yer teeth fixed, have pancakes at Saint Alphonzo, but DON'T EAT THE 
YELLOW SNOW.

Then, for a good time, give Dinah-Moe Humm a call.  Tell her Abrasha sent ya.  She'll 
treat ya well.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From dwwilson@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:12 EST 1996
Article: 44089 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!207.158.64.13!newshost.cyberramp.net!news-in.iadfw.net!excalibur.flash.net!dasc2-41.flash.net!user
From: dwwilson@flash.net (David Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Looking for a source for 'T-Slots' for welding fixture
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 11:57:30 -0600
Organization: Flashnet Communications, http://www.flash.net
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.8

In article <58l0ia$q7l@acmex.gatech.edu>, ch89abe@prism.gatech.edu
(DEMPSEY) wrote:

Brian,
Reid Tool Supply 1-800-253-0421 has lots of great clamps, t-slot bolts,
etc., for jigs. They aren't cheap tho'. But with a little welding you can
make your own. Like using hex head bolts, chopping the heads off, and
welding it to a rectangle of plate. The t-slots from Reid are about $4-$5
each. They're made for Milling machines and Drill press table slots.

I like to peruse these catalogs and get ideas to make it myself, cheaper,
sometimes. You can also buy a cam to make your own cam clamp for instance.
Or take a C-Clamp, cut the bottom off and weld a T-slot to it.
David
dwwilson@flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~dwwilson/
http://www.flash.net/~dwwilson/environ.html


From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:13 EST 1996
Article: 44090 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 03:01:08 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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On Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:53:36 -0400, koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
wrote:


>BTW cutting with propane leaves a cleaner edge with less slag and is
>commonly done in industry.

One thing worth adding here is that the burning of propane releases a
lot of water vapor.  I learned that from a previous poster (see, I can
be taught).  

So either do it where there is plenty of ventilation or be prepared to
scrape rust off the ways.

Roger


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:14 EST 1996
Article: 44091 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.dra.com!news.he.net!calweb!news.campus.mci.net!not-for-mail
From: "deers" <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Aloris bxa toolpost
Date: 12 Dec 1996 15:04:28 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
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I have an Aloris bxa toolpost( prescion wedge type) for sale. Included is 6
holders
one of each: bxa 6, bxa 53, bxa 2, bxa 1, bxa 4, bxa 7. I will sell for
$250.00 or trade
up to a C or D toolpost set.


From deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:15 EST 1996
Article: 44092 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "deers" <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aloris bxa toolpost
Date: 12 Dec 1996 15:08:55 GMT
Organization: CampusMCI
Lines: 14
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deers <deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net> wrote in article
<01bbe83d$d6589800$2da01cce@home>...
> I have an Aloris bxa toolpost( prescion wedge type) for sale. Included is
6
> holders
> one of each: bxa 6, bxa 53, bxa 2, bxa 1, bxa 4, bxa 7. I will sell for
> $250.00 or trade
> up to a C or D toolpost set.
> 
Sorry forgot my name an e-mail address
danny
deers@som-uky.campus.mci.net


From chuck.lampman@tuff.gatech.edu Tue Dec 17 14:19:16 EST 1996
Article: 44093 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!metro.atlanta.com!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!cc.gatech.edu!smash.gatech.edu!chuck.lampman
From: chuck.lampman@tuff.gatech.edu (Chuck Lampman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Missile gyros (was Re:Advanced "Tot" Gyroscope)
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:19:45 -0500
Organization: TUFF
Lines: 17
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In article <32AEE4E2.7B78@htc.honeywell.com>, Don Stauffer
<stauffer@htc.honeywell.com> wrote:

<snip> 
> So, just knowing it was a missile gyro doesn't tell you much.  You have 
> to know from WHAT missile.

And besides, a lot of "missile" gyros are actually from torpedos! When I
was stationed at the Navy Torpedo Station, near Seattle, in the early
'60s, they were popular presentation items when an officer or senior
civilian retired or was transferred. I have 2- I bought another in a junk
shop in LA about two weeks ago. Matched bookends!



Chuck Lampman
chuck.lampman@tuff.gatech.edu


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:18 EST 1996
Article: 44094 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:31:10 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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Tony Midea wrote:
> 
> when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tube of 

snip

> Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this
> application?
> 


How does one use a follow rest when cutting an internal groove?  I thought that this was 
not possible.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:19 EST 1996
Article: 44095 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:13:42 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 59
Message-ID: <AED715169668B1077@ppp16.nantucket.net>
References: <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net> <19961209211500.QAA22771@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AD223D.6667@intnet.net> <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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In article <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>,
frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

>I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
>also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.

Fitch,

I use the trico Microdrop system to lube all my cutting on the shaper, the
bridgeport mill, the lathes the cheap bandsaw, the drill press and the
grinder and linnsher... I have two of the 2 line Air power units and I move
than arround as needed... the 2 needed hanging screws for the units are
placed as needed they work wonderfuly no mess no fuss... on some machines I
use just one of the lockline nozzels... (the shaper and for most stuff on
the lathe (cutoof I use both lines) for example) on the saw I use both
lines on eithe side of the blade just before it enters the cut... I cut
some 4 3/8  X 2 1/2 Hot rolled on it and bunch of 1 1/2" O1  yesterday and
it was no muss no fuss.

and I also dumped the blade that came with the saw and use Starett Bymetal
Powerband Matrix II 1/2 X .025 10-14/S VP blades fro 90% of my metal
cutting. (about $19 from MSC pre made) I got about 6 months of regular use
(20+ cuts a week  of greater than 1 sq inch X section in steel) out of my
first blade... I  tend to use too little down force for a given  cut and
hence shorten blade life as I like the  surface finish result better... I
run the  blade tension as high as I can crank the adjusting knob with a 6"
long tommy bar. failure on the first blade was fatgue cracking of the
backing steel of the blade.

my  problem yesterday wass cutting  2 1/2 X 3/8 thick flat plate into small
chunks (1/4 wide) ... the cut finishes the blade drops bdown and out a bit
and unless I am right there to to stop it keeps cutting into the cut off
part hanging by the wire edge of the stock (teh cut off part is not heavy
enough to pull free)... dosent drop quite far enough on these light cuts
(at a very light down force tension) to cut all the way through and hit the
off switch. if I up the tension on the down force, that fixes it but then
the surface finish is not good enough to use right off the saw (as it was
with the light down force) 

Before I had the saw I kept many more diferent sizes of stock in the racks
as I hate using a hacksaw (for the above parts I would have bought in some
3/8 by 1/4 stock and cut to length for example)  now I can just cut what I
need out of larger sections... If I need a base plate for something  thats
5/8 thick I just grab a chunk of heavy section stock  Say 6 by 8" and slice
it off... toss it on the shaper to flatten it ( the saw cuts to about .005
to 007 squairness in this sort of heavy cut after my fettling)  and I am
off and running ... no waiting a week to get stuff from the Metals Web
site... should have bought one yeras ago...and another job where it shone
was in cutting off the chunks for the blanks for all all the ball handels
on the Quorn... 

a few hours of fettling to turn the sows ear (as it was when it was
unpacked) kit of parts from Harbor freight into a useful tool, perhaps not
the silk purse of a Wilton but useful for my needs.

~R

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:20 EST 1996
Article: 44096 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:13:38 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <AED715129668B0FA8@ppp16.nantucket.net>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com> <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>
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In article <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>,
Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

>In a fit of depression for having led the flock astray with the 
>infamous "Spaceship" aluminum Prank, a single shot rang out from the 
>depths of Harvey Racing Engines! Upon further examination, it was 
>determined that Jim Had left a bottle of Diet Pepsi too close 
>to the Jet heater..........You did'nt think I was gonna KILL 
>MYSELF Over it didja?
>
>Jim "Deadeye" Harvey

I am shocked that a Firm the I thought respectable would have Diet Pepsi
on the premises... how do you expect to do quality work (either Computer or
machine shop) without Jolt Cola... or at a pinch Mountian Dew...

Awaiting word that the Pepsi in question was left by a visiting salesman
(in a lesiure suit and matching white plastic shoes and belt no doubt) to
restore my  confidance in Harvey inc.

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:21 EST 1996
Article: 44097 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 19:17:23 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Flame spraying is also known as "Hard Chroming",
it is a heat surfacing process, it is often used
in machine rebuilding & jewelry.

Alberto


From Tony.Midea@moa.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:23 EST 1996
Article: 44098 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:33:38 -0800
Organization: RO Schools
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <32B15B32.1C99@moa.net>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32ae41fb.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
> Williams) writes:
> 
> >Well, I could be wrong, it surely wouldn't be the first time
> >even today, but I thought he was cutting the snapring groove
> >*inside* the tube.  If that is the case, the bullnose might
> >create complications? <G>
> >
> >
> 
> Hey guys, let up a bit here. I got wrong, OK?
> 
> Check my response to Andy yesterday. <g>
> 
> Peter


Pete,
Hey thanks I kinda fiqured that one out. but I thought about it and 
bought a bullnose anyway. I'll use it to turn down the outside of my 
tubes. That's why I love this hobby (pasttime) so. 
always a new accessory around the corner!
:-)
\
Tony


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:24 EST 1996
Article: 44099 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 19:25:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 28
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>Hey Vantanova, what was the outcome of this? I for one would be
interested
>to know, providing you are still alive and not electocuted as a result.
>Probably still like to know then.
I had four problems: the motor was too weak, no cooling for the
compressor, the pressure switch was between the compressor and the
receiver, before the check valve, and it was the wrong kind of pressure
switch. After fixing all of this, I ended up paying a total of $120, and
had a 10HP 80 gallon two stage compressor delivering about 15-20CFM at
150PSI. When I opened the compressor it was in great condition! Either it
was new or newly honed and rebuilt. I could see clear hone-marks on the
cylinder walls and the valves were brand new. The downside was that I
spent a total of at least 40 hours, mostly between 10PM to 5AM, set a pile
of greasy newspaper on fire, reseived a nasty electrical burn, and the
flywheel almost flew out!!! By the way, the place I bought this is the
gratest store imaginable (it's not really a store, it's a big repair
shop)! Here are some of the best deals:
20HP 3 phase motor $25
10HP 1 phase motor $35 (true 10HP)
200A mig welder, slightly rusty, free shpping $45
Superior Electric NC controller with 3 servos FREE
5'x25' (that's FEET) lathe $500 (Not even rusty; too big for my garage :-(
the compressor, 4 regulators, 100' hose, 80 gallon tank $40
8" divining head, great condition $50
Unfortunately, a new owner took over and the prices went up. :-(
Man, do I wish there were more places like this!!




From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:25 EST 1996
Article: 44100 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:13:46 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 22
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References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <32b0e9f9.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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 the method of clamping them all to a (freshly faced face plate and don't
take it off after facing to attach the blanks for top accuracy) lathe face
plate will work, 

but don't foget that most lathes (even a top qual machine like a Schaublin
of Hardinge or Leven)  will face very slightly concave... per the
Sleschinger (sp) limits. my Schaublin 102 is concave 0.0001 mm accross a
150 mm face plate on the test sheet that was made when it was built... ( I
can not measure that finely with my metrology equipment... I get .000mm
with no flicker going from my grade 2 gauge blocks on my surface plate
accross the face plate). which scould be good enough... My Atlas on the
other hand is 0.0007" concave accross a 9" face plate almost a thou low.
your lathe may vary and remember you can not check this by mounting an
indicator in the tool post an traverseing the mounted plate... a quick and
dirty check is with a known good straight edge and a loog for a line of
light... or try a .0005 feeler gauge under the middle..




Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:19:26 EST 1996
Article: 44101 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsserv.freeway.net!news2.netdtw.com!rust.net!oxy.rust.net!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!tiger.AuroraGrp.Com!not-for-mail
From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: OPINION - Clausing 10 inch lathe
Date: 12 Dec 1996 13:54:53 -0500
Organization: Aurora Group, Inc.
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <58pkdt$68h@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
References: <hanrahan.301.32AED9F5@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <32af8f51.0@mothra.westworld.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tiger.auroragrp.com

hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jim Hanrahan) wrote:

>I am looking at buying a Clausing gear head lathe, model 1030 (10 inch swing, 
>30 inch between centers). Speed range is 40 to 2240 rpm, cam lock spindle, 
>taper attachment, inch and metric threading capability (manuall switch a gear 
>between the spindle and quick change). The only tooling is a 3 jaw chuck and a 
>dog driver plate for the cam lock spindle. On a scale of poor, fair, good, 
>very good, excellent; I would rate it very good.

>Any opinions on what it is worth? Comments on this model lathe in general?

>Thanks in advance.

>--------------------------------------------------------------
>  Jim Hanrahan, PE, CP-IA         Naval Surface Warfare Center
>  hanrahan@oasys.dt.navy.mil      Annapolis, Maryland, USA


Hi Jim

I'm certainly no expert, but I'll throw out what I've heard for discussion.

I believe Clausing made lathes for a while and then switched to putting
their names on imported lates.  For a while, they imported Colchester
lathes from England.  I would buy one of these in a heartbeat if I could
afford it.

I recently saw a couple of Colchesters of approximately that size and
maybe older vintage with a bunch of tooling, no taper, for $2500
(dirty) and $5000 (clean).  Both were in very good shape.  Those are
dealer prices.  If I had  been in the market for a small lathe, I would
have grabbed the $2500 one.

Inch/metric?  I'm not up on my model numbers, but it might be a later
70s model and worth a little more.

Anyone else know the pedigree?
-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:27 EST 1996
Article: 44102 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!ssbunews.ih.lucent.com!not-for-mail
From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: 13 Dec 1996 19:06:14 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies -- Bell Labs Innovations
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NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

Hi everyone.

I have some questions on boring holes and on sherline carbide insert tools.

I need to bore a hole in a bronze steam engine casting several inchs deep.
I ground a 3/8 round tool bit as a boring tool and made a toolholder
for my Sherline lathe. I was able to use this tool to bore the cylinder
(1 inch deep x 5/8 dia) However, I was unable to bore the body which is
a 3/4 hole by 3.5 inchs deep. The tool would just ride on top of the part
and polishs it.  It seems like the tool is flexing too much. I was holding
the part in a 4 jaw chuck and had a steady rest on the outside with
the tool running down the throat.

I started looking at the Sherline boring bars with the valenite inserts.
These boring bars are 3/8 dia by 6 inch long. What is the maximum depth
that I can expect with a 3/8 diameter boring bar. 2, 3, 3.5 inchs???

Also, sherline makes left and right hand holders for these inserts.
Are these inserts unique to sherline tools? They sort of imply that.
If they are, should I be concerned ?

Sherline does make a tool holder that does use standard 55 deg negative
rake inserts, but I need to solve my boring problem first and it would be
nice to standarize on inserts. (The boring bars use postive rake inserts)

One other idea that Im working on is building a boring bar from 1/2 in
diameter steel drill rod. I got some small broken end mills that I was
thinking about grinding into cutters. Is this a good approach or a lot
of work that is destined for failure?

I also am making a fixture so that I can clamp the part using a long
bolt through the spindle. This might tighten things up a bit.

All advice appreciated !

chuck sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com

-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:28 EST 1996
Article: 44103 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:35:13 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <AED71A219668C4008@ppp16.nantucket.net>
References: <32b0b4db.0@mothra.westworld.com> <19961213164000.LAA16585@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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X-Newsreader: NewsHopper 1.2 (Demo)

In article <19961213164000.LAA16585@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32b0b4db.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:
>
>>The warning at work indicated it is a carrier for the Trojan
>>Horse Virus and will almost certainly destroy all your data,
>>and will also try to propigate itself from your PC to all
>>the others for which it finds addresses on your hard disk.
>>
>>T
>
>I can't see how mail text can become active as a virus Fitch. Not saying
>it is not possible but having spent the odd few years with a compiler
>(circa 1974) I can't see how it could replicate itself from text.

Quite right 

see:
http://ciac.llnl.gov/ciac/CIACHoaxes.html#penpal
for the facts on this and other hoaxes

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From rvanzant@van.inc.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:29 EST 1996
Article: 44104 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rvanzant@van.inc.net (Robert Van Zant)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: 13 Dec 1996 17:49:26 GMT
Organization: Van's Linux Box
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On 11 Dec 1996 03:48:33 GMT, todengine@aol.com <todengine@aol.com> wrote:
>I am dismantling a 200 ton cross compound steam engine to move to a
>museum.  I need a 3 1/8" socket to remove six bolts that are located in a
>most inaccessible place.  Anyone have one for sale or one that I might
>borrow.


     If I recall correctly, my Peterbuilt had 3 1/8" nuts holding the drums
on the rear axles.  Any truck supply should have stamped steel 1" drive sockets
in that size range.  They'll probably be too flimsy for your use, but should
be a simple matter to beef 'em up a little.  Cheap too, as I recall, maybe
$20 bucks or so.  In fact, if I still have on laying around, you can have
it.

bob


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:30 EST 1996
Article: 44105 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!donahue
From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TIG welder advice
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:21:25 -0700
Organization: Zip News
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I plan to buy a TIG welder to weld light CrMo tube (bicycle tubing). Does
anyone have experience with this process and have an opinion about
specific machines that would help guide my purchase. I have gas welded
thin steel but never used a TIG torch. Any insights into this process will
be helpful. I did read the FAQ but I'm curious about first hand experience
with specific machines. Is the specific torch style a major factor in
being able to get at mitered joints?
I'm also interested in fillet brazing of this material. Any bicycle
builders out there that would be able to tell me the relative merits of
the two techniques?


From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:32 EST 1996
Article: 44106 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:45:25 -0700
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 31
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References: <32ae454d.0@mothra.westworld.com> <19961211173400.MAA28694@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58o718$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu> <58q5uv$cqp@rational.rational.com>
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In article <58q5uv$cqp@rational.rational.com>, davide@rational.com (David
Erickson) wrote:

> In article <58o718$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu>,
> Jonathan M. Elson <jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
> >pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >: Yeah, that's where I started Fitch, I managed about 0.0015 but it was
> >: enough to load the lead screw slightly. That 0.0015 at the bolt circle
> >: diameter of 4-1/4 (I think without going an measuring) translated into a
> >: significant angular displacement. May have to pay the money for those
> >: couplings yet.
> 
> >If .0015" does not allow the motor to turn the shaft/screw smoothly, you
> >shouldn't be using a hard, direct coupling.
> 
> I agree with Jon, but I also would suspect that you have an alignment
> problem other than the .0015" difference in spacer height.  When you
> move the spacers around,  does the tight spot remain in the same place?
> Does the location and tightness of the fit vary depending on how much
> the screw is driven into the nut?   Are the motor and the nut aligned?
> Is the leadscrew bent?
> 
> Dave
> 
I think it would be a false economy to omit the flexible coupling. But
maybe a suitable coupling could be made by selectively weakening a
standard solid part since the load is relatively light. Is there room to
turn it into a hourglass shape, or maybe opposing kerfs repeated with each
pair rotated 90deg. Of course this better accommodates angular than axial
misalignment.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:19:33 EST 1996
Article: 44107 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 19:11:36 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Dave Matthews (dmatt@roch875.mc.xerox.com) wrote:
: The manual for my old Craftsman lathe calls for 
: SAE 10 weight for most of the lube and Keystone
: 122 Outboard Gear Lube for the gears.  I assume 
: that I can use any 90w something gear lube for
: the gears but what is the current equiv for SAE 10?
: Is this 3-in-1 weight?  The lathe is in excellent
: shape and I don't want to screw it up.

SAE #10 oil can still be obtained at auto parts stores, but it is getting
hard to find.  After I use up my current quart, I will probably buy 
a gallon of spindle oil from MSC or one of the machine tool suppliers.
This is used in the spindle bearings of my Atlas roller-bearing headstock
and my Bridgeport mill spindle.  I believe SAE #10 is the same as ISO
VG 22.



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:34 EST 1996
Article: 44108 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:36:25 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <32B1B039.2544@hre.com>
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Randolph Lee wrote:
> 
> In article <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>,
> Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
> 
> >In a fit of depression for having led the flock astray with the
> >infamous "Spaceship" aluminum Prank, a single shot rang out from the
> >depths of Harvey Racing Engines! Upon further examination, it was
> >determined that Jim Had left a bottle of Diet Pepsi too close
> >to the Jet heater..........You did'nt think I was gonna KILL
> >MYSELF Over it didja?
> >
> >Jim "Deadeye" Harvey
> 
> I am shocked that a Firm the I thought respectable would have Diet Pepsi
> on the premises... how do you expect to do quality work (either Computer or
> machine shop) without Jolt Cola... or at a pinch Mountian Dew...
> 
> Awaiting word that the Pepsi in question was left by a visiting salesman
> (in a lesiure suit and matching white plastic shoes and belt no doubt) to
> restore my  confidance in Harvey inc.
> 
> Randolph Lee
> Windshadow EngineeringI must confess here before my fellow rcm'ers that I indeed am guilty of 
drinking the heretical Diet Pepsi. It is a holdover from my dissapated 
youth when cravings were not resisted and debauchery ran rampant. 
As a saving grace, however, I can readily admit to drinking Deli Coffee 
that has sat on the table of the Bridgeport for more than a day. This 
alone, should buy me some absolution.

Jim"Penitent" Harvey
noliver@hre.com
http://hre.com



From donahue@continet.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:35 EST 1996
Article: 44109 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:23:46 -0700
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 13
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In article <32b0b0a7.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:

> donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> 
> >Did I stumble into alt.flame.os.war? 
> 
> No.
> 
> Fitch

Sorry, I'll be good ;)


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:37 EST 1996
Article: 44110 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I appologize to *ALL* machinery dealers
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:42:18 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

><snip>

>Better Scott?????????

>May I be so bold to suggest you don't take everything so damn seriously.

>What do you do for fun? Tear wings off flies? (That was a *joke* Scott!)

>Peter
>Who also has the MDNA guide book and can look them up for himself!
>Sheeesh!

Lets have a public flogging  <snick>



From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:38 EST 1996
Article: 44111 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Do you know these machines?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 12:05:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961209211500.QAA22769@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>auctions are auctions. You see it, you buy it, you own it.

That is the fun of machinery.  You pays your money, you takes your
chances.  At least if you lose, it will bring $44/ton.   Not like Vegas.

Cecil in OK


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:39 EST 1996
Article: 44112 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shooting Star Tech  DRO?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 21:17:43 GMT
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Has anybody bought and used one of Shooting Star Technology's digital 
read out systems?  If so could you give your opinion of the system?



From gbrown@anise.ee.cornell.edu Tue Dec 17 14:19:40 EST 1996
Article: 44113 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gbrown@ee.cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 13 Dec 1996 13:04:35 GMT
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The Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport NY has a large collection of aircraft
engines on display -- going back to ~1910.  I first was tipped off to
this when I noticed many of the photographs in a book on aircraft piston
engines were credited to the Curtiss Museum.  The
collection includes rotaries and radials
(The science musuem
in London has even more, but I found these hard to examine because of the 
display).

Geoffrey Brown

In article <850418005.29828@dejanews.com>, kevin@aquilagroup.com says...
>
>The strain of not contribuitng to this thread has finally 
>become too much:
>
>In article <58o370$cni@news.istar.ca>,
>  "David Langlois" <langloid@magi.com> wrote:
>
>> In the airplane museum here in Ottawa are cut-away examples of the two
>> types of radial engines (fixed cylinders, and rotating cylinders).
>
>Speaking of museums:  No reader of this NG should pass through Pheonix 
>without stopping in at the Flying Aces Museum (? or something just like that 
?) 
>at Falcon field (airport) in Mesa, AZ ( a 'burb of Pheonix). I visited 
several
>years back, and If I don't accidently go to Pheonix soon, I will make a 
special
>pilgramage to see it again. Here' why:
>
>Amongst other treasures they had a P&W R-4360 (_two_ actually, but one is 
>hidden under the cowl of a "very limited production" Corsair).
>For the non-airheads, thats a 4360 CID, supercharged, 28 cyl. radial 
>(4 banks of 7)I forget the HP, rating, but 3,500 HP seems familier.
>A discussed-to-death-in-this-thread Gnome rotary is in good view on 
>an uncowled WW1 vintage (? was it a Spad maybe ?) fighter, and there 
>was an  Allison only a few feet from the "do not cross" ropes.  
>



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:42 EST 1996
Article: 44114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making your own flux for hard soldering
Date: 13 Dec 1996 22:48:22 GMT
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Whats the advantage your way?

It smells out mothers kitchen ............


Sorry, but I fell off my chair when I read this posting
its sooooo funny.

Alberto:




From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:43 EST 1996
Article: 44115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 00:06:53 GMT
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In article <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) writes:

> was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
>that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
>couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than the
>compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor with
>silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
>much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.
>
>--

 I don't know what will help other than adding a blower to help move more
air over the motor. One thing I do know is don't paint it silver. Unless
it is out in the sun where it can absorb heat from the light black paint
will let more heat radiate from the object. From the sounds of it I would
leave it a dark blue which is almost as good as black.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu Tue Dec 17 14:19:44 EST 1996
Article: 44116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Make Money in Junk Metal
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 09:15:08 -0500
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 30
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In-Reply-To: <32AE836B.1884@concentric.net>

I resent you calling my projects "junk metal."  I paid a lot of money for
the material and tooling and have an awful lot of time invested in that
"junk metal."  Oh sure, they could be done better and in half the time if
had half the talent of Jim Harvey, Peter Nolan, Scott Logan or any of the
other good machininsts around, or if I only had 100-year-old,
originally-American-now-rebuilt-5-times machine tools, but I am proud of
my projects, so quit calling them "junk metal." 

Or was she referring to scrap (what I refer to as "future project
material")?  If so, then please disregard the above...

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Latcha, PhD                     VOICE: (810) 370-2203
Associate Professor                        FAX:   (810) 370-4261
Department of Mechanical Engineering       Email: latcha@oakland.edu
Oakland University
Rochester MI 48309-4401

On Wed, 11 Dec 1996, Ruth wrote:

> MAKE MONEY IN JUNK METAL 
> http://www.bn1.com/carnehill/
> 
> 
> Our Business Opportunity Kit shows you how to turn scrap metal into
> immediate dollars. You will find 'insider tips' on the best ways to
<SNIP>
> 
> 



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:45 EST 1996
Article: 44117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: rec.crafts.metalworking -  opens up new horizons
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:49:04 GMT
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Dear Fellow Metalworkers :

We have this morning received a fax order from a company in Canada,
which has seen our postings on rec.crafts.metalworking, this company
has ordered 75 Art Deco style lamps from our current range of products.

Thanks to guys in the IT engine room of rec.craft.metalworking;  keep
your server running and make as all happy, Christmas is nearing.


Alberto from London.


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:46 EST 1996
Article: 44118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
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Re: surplus gyros.  Had one in my youth, circa 1966.  Mouth power would
spin the rotor up to a respectable speed, but for thrills, we took it to
the local service station and spun it up with the air hose.  Made one hell
of a siren noise and took a *loooonnnggg* time to spin back down.

Haven't seen gyros at the local surplus shops, but then I haven't asked.
They frequently get *amazing* things in, like the optical table slabs
>from  Lockheed Missle & Space--about 8' x 20'.  No lasers, though--the
government kept them.  Hmm, what kind of laser work needs 2 slabs that
size????

Pete Brooks



From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:47 EST 1996
Article: 44119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!brooksp
From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:29:46 GMT
Organization: Corporate News Server
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <58muiq$l5l@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
References: <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net> <19961209211500.QAA22779@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
: In article <587ufj$cgs@news.usit.net>, hook@usit.net writes:

: >heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
: >any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
: >ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
: >all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
: >come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
: >forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!! Keith  hook@usit.net
: >
: >

: Some days it just aint fun to read this NG.

: Double groan...

: Peter

Agreed.

Pete Brooks



From npoersch@mts.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:48 EST 1996
Article: 44120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.apk.net!hyperion.nitco.com!news-out.internetmci.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!top.mts.net!usenet
From: Neil Poersch <npoersch@mts.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:23:39 GMT
Organization: MTS Internet Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <58mu7b$g40@top.MTS.Net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: as3b-p11.mts.net

Can anyone tell me what type of metal are carburetors  made
from?  Are they made of a zinc alloy or aluminum alloy or...?

I need to plug a existing hole for an idle adjusting screw in 
a carb body and then drill and tap it 3mm offset from the 
original hole.  I want to ensure the plug doesn't loosen up
over time and am wondering if I can sweat-solder it or TIG
weld it or epoxy it or whatever?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Neil




From bharne@adss.on.ca Tue Dec 17 14:19:49 EST 1996
Article: 44121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!zippo!news
From: "Bill Harnell" <bharne@adss.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Diamond laps & files
Date: 13 Dec 1996 06:25:45 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <01bbe8be$5b5d6be0$84c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>
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A tool and diemaker I know purchased an old cast iron
surface plate, applied a light coat of oil and sprinkled
diamond dust on the surface plate which he then used (and
still does after 40 years) as a lap.

Seems that the cystalline structure of cast iron allows
fine diamond particles to embed themselves into the lattice
structure where they remain.
-- 
Bill Harnell <bharne@adss.on.ca>

Steve Rayner <ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA> wrote in
article <E2AtLF.F40@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>...
> 
> The old time watchmakers made diamond laps & files as
required.  This 
> often required them to smash a diamond with a hammer! 
Today, most rock 
> hobby shops have vials of graded diamond dust.  The old
timers hammered the
> diamond powder into pieces of sheet copper.
> -- 
> Steve. 
> 
> ******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not
shared.*******************
> 


From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:19:50 EST 1996
Article: 44122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!crcnews.unl.edu!unlinfo.unl.edu!mjj
From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 13 Dec 1996 20:08:57 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <58sd4p$ig1@crcnis3.unl.edu>
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VAntonova (vantonova@aol.com) wrote:
: For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
: with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
: withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F.

     Try Macor a machinable glass ceramic.  You can purchase macor out
of the McMaster-Carr catalog.  The big plus to Macor is that it can be
machined with High Speed or Carbide tool.  It is also possible to hold
a very very tight tolerance +/- .0001 inches depending on the 
acccuracy of your machine tools.  The negatives to macor are, it 
brittle and doesn't have a very high tensile strength. If you use it 
in a high stress application it will fail.

     Good Luck

     Mike J.
--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:52 EST 1996
Article: 44123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 11:47:57 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 25
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Somehow... not quite sure how, I convinced my wife that owning a small
milling machine would reduce the amount of time I spend in front of my
'puter... :) she bought it!

Soooo... guess what I'm getting for Christmas :))))))))

Yup... I brand spankin new Sherline Milling machine :) the 'Deluxe
Package' to be specific.

Thus my question:

I already have a Taig lathe and 'at least one of evertything' to go
with it (literally). How much of this will be useful on the milling
machine?

Are the drawbars/collets equivelent?
I know the spindle thread is the same
Is the Taig fly cutter usable on the Sherline?
'T' bolts?
Boring head and bar?

Thanks muchly in advance for any advice you all can give me.

Steve
stz@garlic.com


From ae569@chebucto.ns.ca Tue Dec 17 14:19:53 EST 1996
Article: 44124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ae569@chebucto.ns.ca (Duane Forth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: 13 Dec 1996 18:48:16 GMT
Organization: Chebucto Community Net
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <58s8dg$s3@News.Dal.Ca>
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In regards to the subject, I once saw in a motorcycle mag an article on 
an Australian nutbar who sliced two cylinders off a RR Merlin, mated it 
to a 3 spd auto Holden car trans & built a motorcycle around it.  The 
ultimate V-twin (~2500cc)?
Duane Forth

--


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:54 EST 1996
Article: 44125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 12:57:08 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 25
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OK, I was reminded (politely, thank you), that I had the url screwed
up on our metric threading info.  Some day I'll figure out how these
damn boxes work <g>.

The Metric Threading information is at:

http://www.loganact.com/TIPS/met-thd.htm

Apparently, the capitalization DOES matter in this case.  Sorry about
that.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:56 EST 1996
Article: 44126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!juniper.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!AesSedai.wes.army.mil!news.he.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-29.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:21:56 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32b0e6e6.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58hpms$bpn@hpcc48.corp.hp.com> <01bbe781$f6be88a0$244c8b92@mikehenr>
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"Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov> wrote:

>Please pardon the ignorance, but what does one use a shaper for?  It sounds
>like something I'd like to have <g>.

A shaper is a machine for planing metal.  It operates by
holding the metal fixed to a table and then passing the tool
across it using linear back and forth strokes.  The work is
fet sideways to present uncut surface, or vertically upward
when performing tasks like cutting keyways.

Usually they are capable of getting surfaces really flat.
My shaper will get s surface flatter than my milling machine
will, but probably not as smooth (due more to its operators
lack of cutter grinding skill than anything else).

A shaper is a "fundamental" sort of tool.  It makes its
stroke and gouges the metal off.  It will also gouge
anything that gets in  the way of its ram.  The fact that it
starts each cut by hitting the edge of the work at full
speed can lead to some spectacular "wrecks" if you are not
careful.

But they are also almost mesmerizing to watch work.  they
tend to have some entertaining almost Rube Goldberg
articulating works to operate the cross feed.  My South Bend
has a cross feed that adjusts in "quantums" of .002"/stroke.

Fitch
Wondering if this was a serious question, or I was just had,
again ...  






From fbngraph@indy.net Tue Dec 17 14:19:57 EST 1996
Article: 44127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!dciteleport.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!199.3.65.3!news.indy.net!ip75-29
From: fbngraph@indy.net (Walter Daniels)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 20:11:19 GMT
Organization: IndyNet - Indys Internet Gateway
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Message-ID: <58sd97$ljq@news.indy.net>
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In article <wdennis-0212962039560001@news.interport.net>,
   wdennis@interport.net (Ward Dennis) wrote:
>hello- 
>Just wondering if anyone in this ng could advise me about a project I am
>working on.  Is it possible to somehow produce a photographic image onto a
>metal surface - specifically nikle silver. I highly doubt whether I could
>use photographic developing techniques as there is no "tooth" for it to
>grab onto. An apperance of a photographic image on the surface of the
>metal is what I am aiming for regardless of the process. Any ideas?. Any
>feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  One possibility, although not one I have tried, is to sublimate an image 
onto the surface. There are some problems with this. 1)The image will be 
expensive to purchase, unless you already do sublimation printing. 2)It may 
not be very permanent. 3)Details may not be very clear.

  If you want to try a small test piece, send me the image in .pcx format 
(on a PC formatted disk) *to scale* and I will make you a test print. However, 
you will be *heating* the piece to in excess of 300 degrees for about 3-5 
seconds, and applying pressure against the paper and surface.

  Alternatively, you can find a mall type, t-shirt, instant printer and pay 
them tp produce a color test print. Similar concerns about heat and pressure 
still apply, though.

  Let us know how it works out.


>TIA
>carol
>
>pilecki@interport.net
>


%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 Walter Daniels  FBN Graphics - The place where your mug says what YOU want!
 Custom orders cheerfully done on quality coffee mugs, with no minimum order.
 You can order quantites of 1 to 100 for use by individuals, club, etc.
 For info contact:  fbngraph@indy.net    http://www.digiserve.com/fbngraphics/
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%


From kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:19:58 EST 1996
Article: 44128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newsfeed1.aimnet.com!news.aimnet.com!news
From: kopfj@mailhub1.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Applying Lacquer to Polished Brass
Date: 13 Dec 1996 03:36:16 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
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Sender: kopfj@mailhub.aimnet.com
Message-ID: <58qivg$82l@news.aimnet.com>
References: <55lkm8$g74@scramble.lm.com> <584v90$orm@nw101.infi.net>  
 <koroluk-o-1112961647220001@korolukm.rmc.ca>
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Lacquer seems to set up harder if the brass is warm...try warming it to
150 F ...it also dries much quicker.

JK


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Dec 17 14:20:00 EST 1996
Article: 44129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compresso
Message-ID: <1996Dec13.134623.25830@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 13 Dec 96 13:46:23 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
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In article <58nhb5$2ua@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> writes:
|>vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:
|>>I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
|>>that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
|>>couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than the
|>>compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor with
|>>silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
|>>much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.
|>
|>Do not paint it silver, flat black if you must ...

This would depend on whether the dominant heat-dumping mechanism is
conduction or radiation.  At compressor temperatures I would expect
conduction/convection to dominate, with radiation a very small part.
This suggests an unpainted surface would be superior to any paint, as
the paint itself no doubt would act as a thin insulator.

Make sure the compressor is not limited in its air flow (e.g. that other
stuff isn't blocking free air flow), that it's oriented as designed, and
you might consider a couple of cheap "muffin" fans for forced-air cooling.
Wire them in with the motor so they don't run all the time, for example.

Not sure how hot is "too hot" however.

Jim


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:01 EST 1996
Article: 44130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:42:23 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <32b0ebb4.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32af8f4d.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>handle - or weld on a short 1" drive socket extension.  I am
>>assuming that you need to be able to apply some serious
>>torque to the nuts if they are that large.  A welded up tool
>>should last through the removal and replacement of 6 nuts.  
>>
>>

>Hey Fitch, think CNC. A lump of 4" round cut to about 3" long. Take 5
>minutes to write a program to cut a hex, go back with a smaller cutter and
>cut back the corners to clear the hex points, weld the largsest socket you
>can find at a pawn shop tool table and the guy can go loosen the bolts?
>Yes?

>Peter

Yes.  I was afraid of that.   Sigh ...

Fitch
Re-reading all the advertisements for affordable cnc ...
they wrinkel when you drool on them ...




From jhovel@hitech.net.au Tue Dec 17 14:20:02 EST 1996
Article: 44131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Joe Hovel <jhovel@hitech.net.au>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Virtual Model Exhibition! - any interest?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 00:12:36 +1100
Organization: La Trobe University, Bendigo
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I've posted this before, but since then, several hundred other messages
have been psted and new readers may not have seen this:

This is a request for e-mail expressions of interest for the following:
The Bendigo Society of Model Engineers
(http://www.hitech.net.au/jhovel/bsme/bsme.htm) in conjunction with
Events Bendigo is running its inaugural annual National Model Expo on
July 5th & 6th 1997 - an exhibition of model and modelling of all kinds:
Model Aircraft, Boats & ships, cars, farm vehicles, aero engines, steam
engines & boilers, internal combustion engines, hot air engines, farm
machinery, locomotives, traction engines and other road vehicles, model
engineers' machine tools and equipment and general hand crafts, as well
as alternative energy systems (eg solar cars, pedal vehicles, generating
sets etc).
We also wish to invite international participation via the Internet!
We will have a local ISP keep a connection open both expo days for
international exhibitors to show off their models and commercial
offerings related to modelling! and for visitors and exhibitors to stay
in touch.
I would like to hear from individuals, clubs and vendors who would be
interested to have a link to their exhibition pages (with photos and
descriptions of models and their builders), or their club or catalog
home pages.
We will of course have photos of  "physical" exhibits and exhibitors in
return, as well as a live camera showing the expo hall - maybe roving -
updated every few minutes, so you can visit the Expo as well! We may set
up an IRC channel for participants to interact live around the world -
within the restraints of timezones.

Since there are still 7 months to go, I'd be quite happy to provide some
assistance for those who have difficulties with accessing a local web
server for example or no experience with web page authoring AND CANNOT
access a local support person.

At this point, I'm particularly interested in guaging the level of
interest in this event - a "Virtual International Expo"!

As well as posting you opinion here, please also e-mail me direct to
ensure your message doesn't get missed!
Thanks for your consideration!

-- 
Joe Hovel
-------------------------------------------
http://www.hitech.net.au/jhovel/


From cpollard@csn.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:03 EST 1996
Article: 44132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!news-2.csn.net!cpollard
From: cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 13 Dec 1996 20:49:41 GMT
Organization: SuperNet Inc. +1.303.296.8202 Denver Colorado
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <58sfh5$1at@news-2.csn.net>
References: <19961212023700.VAA15492@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961212200700.PAA12721@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

The problem with this new AOL payment plan is that theoretically a few
users could log on permanently and block the whole local access.  THey
would not pay for the local phone call and they don't pay for being on AOL
the extra time.

This could be a REAL BIG problem


From frisbie@flying-disk.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:04 EST 1996
Article: 44133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Message-ID: <1996Dec10.102630.1029@flying-disk.com>
Date: 10 Dec 96 10:26:30 PDT
References: <19961205121300.HAA25984@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961205192600.OAA04181@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 35

In article <32AA715A.363A@abrasha.com>, 
Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> writes:

> I don't get it.  This is the INTERNET remember.  The INFORMATION SUPER
> HIGHWAY as some  people like to call it.  I hate that name, but is does
> describe the place to some  extent.

> Ever heard of Yahoo, Infoseek.  Well, EDUCATE YOURSELF, and take a look.

> I have no problem with sharing my expertise on subjects I know something
> about, but it  rubs me the wrong way when people seem to be plain lazy and
> not willing to use the  resources available to them.

> The Internet is an incredible research tool, if only you would use it! 
> So get off your  butt and use your head, and your keyboard a little.

That is all well and good if one has access to these resources.
Please remember that many of us read this newsgroup via UUCP
links.   UUCP does not offer the capability to read web pages,
etc.   On the other hand, it operates entirely in the background,
delivering e-mail direct to my desk and lets me read newsgroup
postings with a simple dumb terminal.   Sure, it doesn't have
color or graphics, but neither do any of the postings in
rec.crafts.metalworking.

Not everyone has (or needs) the latest and greatest technology.
What we do need is for everyone in this newsgroup to be polite
and considerate of everyone else.   This includes keeping your
postings to a width that are readable.   65 characters is a
width that is not only very readable, but also allows several
levels of quoting before the 80-character wrap limit of most
terminals is reached.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:05 EST 1996
Article: 44134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drill Doctor
Date: 13 Dec 1996 21:19:46 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 3
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: innugap5-int.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

Just received my Darex Drill Dr. and sharpened about 30 drills and 
drilled a few holes, works great!!!!



From rborden@coastnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:06 EST 1996
Article: 44135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
From: rborden@coastnet.com (Ross Borden)
Organization: t.rex
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.3
References: <58nb6l$r2u@nw101.infi.net> <32B1204E.6907@abrasha.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
NNTP-Posting-Host: d26.coastnet.com
Message-ID: <32b1cb54.0@news.pinc.com>
Date: 13 Dec 96 21:32:04 GMT
Lines: 16
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ais.net!noc.van.hookup.net!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!d26.coastnet.com


Jim Waggener wrote:
> 
> Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
> chucks, tooling?
> 
> Jim Waggener

I would recommend "Metal Spinning" by Reagan & Smith.  It's a 
reprint available from Lindsay.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Low Earth Orbit: If you can make it    |   rborden@coastnet.com
    there, you can make it anywhere.       |       Ross Borden
-----------------------------------------------------------------------



From npoersch@mts.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:07 EST 1996
Article: 44136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!top.mts.net!usenet
From: Neil Poersch <npoersch@mts.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 14:40:27 GMT
Organization: MTS Internet Services
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <58rpsr$29j6@top.MTS.Net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: as2a-p02.mts.net


> 
> I believe most carb bodies are a zinc alloy. I hate to admit it,
> but I've repaired several worn throttle shaft bores with good old
> JB Weld.
> 
> 
Pardon my ignorance but what is JB Weld? Is it some sort of epoxy compound?

Neil



From marks@motionex.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:09 EST 1996
Article: 44137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-16.sprintlink.net!ralph.vnet.net!news
From: Mark Shaw <marks@motionex.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Shoptask 17-20 XMTC mill/lathe
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:25:28 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc.
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <32B1D7D8.15A2@motionex.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: marks.motionex.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01Gold (Win95; I)

I would like to hear some feedback from anyone that owns or has used the Shoptask 17-20 XMTC.  It looks 
like a very well designed machine and its standard motor mounts make it a great candidate for CNC 
conversion.  It just doesn't seem like there has been much press on Shoptask on the Web or otherwise.


From owen@davies.mv.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:10 EST 1996
Article: 44138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-14.sprintlink.net!mv!usenet
From: owen@davies.mv.com
Subject: Re:  Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)
Organization: MV Communications, Inc.
Message-ID: <E2DGnI.588@mv.mv.com>
References: <19961213083300.DAA05943@ladder01.news.aol.com>
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: davies.mv.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 21:50:05 GMT
Lines: 15

>   tekdad@aol.com (TEKDAD) writes:

(much good material deleted)

>  Additionally I have built an adapter for my wood stove
>  which allows me to burn wood pellets instead of cord wood,
>  yet can switched back to cord wood in only a couple minutes.

I'd love to hear more about this!  How does it work?  What
does it look like?  How easy would it be to adapt for a
top-loading Tempwood?

Many thanks.

Owen Davies


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:11 EST 1996
Article: 44139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jax.bellsouth.net!news.rdu.bellsouth.net!news.bna.bellsouth.net!news.sdf.bellsouth.net!news.mem.bellsouth.net!news.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-29.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: STUPID INCORRECT LIST
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 07:17:26 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32b0f3e4.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32AF6D3C.5ED3@ix.netcom.com> <19961212200700.PAA12717@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.westworld.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32AF6D3C.5ED3@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
><MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>>(1) is there a new company called BOING??
>>(2) MARTIN is now LOCKHEED MARTIN
>>(3) PRATT & WHITNEY is on the balls of there ass
>>(4) there is no & between PERKIN ELMER
>>(5) who cares
>>(6) its stupid
>>
>>

>At least it got you riled 'nuff to locate the caps and shift keys.

>pEteR

And up until last Friday evening there was a Rockwell
International (Prime source of space ship aluminum here Jim
- also space ship Titianiam, and copious amounts of
uNobtaiNiuM from time to time also) built Space Shuttles,
Apollo Rocket Motors, etc.  amoung other things.  I worked
for them for 27.45 years.

As of this Monday there is a Boeing North American (aka
BNA).  Boeing bought all the space and aerospace parts of
what used to be Rockwell International.  I've worked for
them for 4 days now.  There is also a Boeing - BNA's parent
company.  

Fitch
Who likes the name Boeing North American and is glad to be
back working for a company that *wants* to build space
ships, space stations, and planes, and things like that that
Fitch likes to help design .... 





From romeug@erols.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:12 EST 1996
Article: 44140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news
From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug@erols.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:28:44 -0500
Organization: Erol's Internet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32B1762C.74BE@erols.com>
References: <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net> <19961209211500.QAA22771@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AD223D.6667@intnet.net> <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)

> I throw the danged useless bimetal thing away and
> don't bother to file new teeth on it in a burst  of
> misguided thrift <G>).
> 
sounds like youve worn them to nothing, ive taken those blades, cut them
into foot long pieces, wired a stack together and use them as a rasp
for  scatch finishing on my lathe, work pretty well.

> I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
> also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
> 
small spray bottle which i occasionaly (at least twice a cut)spray the
piece, guides etc with wd40- just small amount, cutting aluminum
exclusively,
> Fitch

-- 
----------- gabriel -------------
- http://users.aol.com/romeug   -the furniture
- http://users.aol.com/romeugp  -the photographs
---- mailto:romeug@erols.com ----



From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:13 EST 1996
Article: 44141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Binder for sand mold making.
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:24:43 -0500
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B104BB.565B@bellsouth.net>
References: <58o10j$qne@mulga.cs.mu.OZ.AU> <32b40f78.90370958@news.islandnet.com>
Reply-To: bvaughn@bellsouth.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: d01291.atl.bellsouth.net
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)

Jens wrote:
> 
> johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU (John Horvath) wrote:
> 
> > form a large (10' by 10') sand-based casting mold.
> 
> Whoa .... I wonder what size your furnace is ?????
> Are you building a replica of the Queen Mary in a 1:1 scale ?????
> At that size, any commercial casting or refractory supplier in your
> area will be more than glad to take your money.
> 
> Jens

 I was wondering if we all could see a picture of the monster melter.

Brian


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:14 EST 1996
Article: 44142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:47:44 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grc-ny12-57.ix.netcom.com
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-NETCOM-Date: Thu Dec 12  9:53:25 PM CST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I)

James P. Riser wrote:
> 
> In article <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:
> 
> > Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
> >
> > >I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies
> > >asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to
> > >have for sale.
> > >I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
> > >Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out
> > >of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.
> >
> > >Jim "Ashamed of hisself" Harvey
> > >joker!@hre.com
> > >http://hre.com
> >
> Now you tell us.  I've spent the last few days (18 hour days - I might
> add!) drawing up the plans for my very own personal spaceship.  It was to
> be my only Christmas present to myself.  Well, thanks for ruining my
> holiday ;-)
> Jim
> 
> --
> James P. Riser
> Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser

::::::::BANG!::::::::

In a fit of depression for having led the flock astray with the 
infamous "Spaceship" aluminum Prank, a single shot rang out from the 
depths of Harvey Racing Engines! Upon further examination, it was 
determined that Jim Had left a bottle of Diet Pepsi too close 
to the Jet heater..........You did'nt think I was gonna KILL 
MYSELF Over it didja?

Jim "Deadeye" Harvey
bigbang@hre.com
http://hre.com




From dobedave@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:16 EST 1996
Article: 44143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!usenet
From: dobedave@mindspring.com (Dave Corgill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compresso
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 21:06:30 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <58sjtj$scr@camel1.mindspring.com>
References: <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58nhb5$2ua@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1996Dec13.134623.25830@roper.uwyo.edu>
Reply-To: dobedave@mindspring.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip1.dallas4.tx.interramp.com
X-Server-Date: 13 Dec 1996 22:04:35 GMT
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) wrote:


>In article <58nhb5$2ua@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Robert Bickers <r.bickers@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>|>vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:
>|>>I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
>|>>that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
>|>>couldn't touch the motor, and I have my gas generator is cooler than the
>|>>compressor. Somebody recomended spraying the dark blue compressor with
>|>>silver paint. What else should I do (I don't think painting will help
>|>>much)? How much heat is safe? Thanks for any advice.
>|>
>|>Do not paint it silver, flat black if you must ...

If this is an "Import" motor, they run very hot & burn up quick.
That's why you see the extra price for a "UL" listed American
motor in the machine tool cats.

A big fan would help.


.
dobedave@mindspring.com & The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes)
Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/
Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/



From beadmanc@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:17 EST 1996
Article: 44144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: beadmanc@aol.com (BeadmanC)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Stone Settings, Cabachone Mountings?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 23:11:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <19961213231000.SAA27681@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

Besides Fire Mountain Gems and River Gems, does anyone have a source for a
wide variety of mountings they don't mind sharing with me?

Thanks a bunch,
Deborah


From barts@eng.sun.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:18 EST 1996
Article: 44145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: Bart Smaalders <barts@eng.sun.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 15:19:07 -0800
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B1E46B.1D31@eng.sun.com>
References: <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <19961213163900.LAA16548@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote  about trying to machine spacers accurately...

Why not just hang the motor off of it's output shaft with a rigid
coupling, and put a torque arm (out of say 1/4" Al) back to something
solid.  The motor won't move, and no fancy technology is required.

The bearings need to be able to take the weight, but then, that's
not asking a lot...

- Bart

-- 
Bart Smaalders			Solaris Clustering	SunSoft
barts@cyber.eng.sun.com		(415) 786-5335		MS UMPK17-301
http://playground.sun.com/~barts			2550 Garcia Ave
							Mt View, CA 94043-1100


From davenugent@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:19 EST 1996
Article: 44146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: davenugent@aol.com (DaveNugent)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bicycle chain?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 23:40:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <19961213233901.SAA28838@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

Hello all,
     I've got a trivia question: what is bicycle chain?  Specifically, is
it ANSI 25 ,or 35 ,or is it something else?  Where can I find non-bike
sprockets that will fit bike chain?

Regards,
David Nugent
"Life is a journey, not a destination."


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:20 EST 1996
Article: 44147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 10:03:08 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
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Message-ID: <32B2DDCC.4FED@cyberhighway.net>
References: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <58uh1h$rh1@sjx-ixn9.ix.netcom.com>
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To: Roger Loving <rogerlov@ix.netcom.com>

Roger Loving wrote:
> ......
>     I haven't seen one of these. Can you tell a little more about it?
>                                             Roger L.

look up:

http://www.drilldr.com

to see postings also look for drill doctor in dejanews

http://dejanews.com




-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:22 EST 1996
Article: 44148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in3.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Miller Tig welders
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:39:33 -0500
Lines: 14
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I would like some opinions regarding the Econotig and the 250.  What I
have in mind is mostly sheet metal up to about 14 guage and on rare
occasions a repair where something just "broke off".  One example I can
give is welding new balls on the spindle arms of my Model A.  This is
about a 5/8 ball welded onto a 7/16 perch.  I have already paid to have
this done, but that is an example.  I guess what I am asking is if the
250 is worth the extra $1500 by the time you buy everything that comes
with the econotig.  If the capacity is large enough, I can wait on the
duty cycle.  Also, I might weld some AL or SS.  I have never used a TIG,
but many of my dreams require one.

Thanks

Brian


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:23 EST 1996
Article: 44149 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-29.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:35:05 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32b0e9f9.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org>
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jesw@mitre.org (James Wilkins) wrote:




>How about cutting up a set of the cheap Enco 1-2-3 blocks?

>-- 
>James Wilkins
>The Mitre Corp.
>Bedford, MA

I didn't know they were that close in size.  <G>

Actually, its a good idea.  I will keep it in mind.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:24 EST 1996
Article: 44150 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:23:20 GMT
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Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com> wrote:


>Check out your welding books a bit more. 

>6013 works great on DC.  In fact, this is the preferred method
>for welding sheet metal with 6013.  Only once have I used 6013
>on AC.

>Vertical down 6013 DCRP on 16 ga steel is like using a caulking 
>gun.  Very fast and easy to control.

>Welding class final exam in 8 hours.......


Frank,

Good luck on your exam.

You are correct that 6013 works great on DC. 

My point was only that you *can* use 6013 with an
inexpensive AC stick welder (SMAW to you welding school
graduates <G>) to build a whole lot of very useful projects,
and don't need to spend the extra $$$ for a DC welder if you
don't want to.  To quote from the "The Procedure handbook Of
Arc Welding" , Twelfth edition, page 6.2-10, Published by
the Lincoln Electric company.  A terrific book BTW.  Mine
was copywrited in 1973.  Probably they have updated it a lot
since then.  

"E6013:  this electrode is used in place of E6012 for
sheet-metal welding where appearance and ease of operation
are more important than speed.  AC operation is excellent.
It is recommended for general-purpose welding with small AC
transformer welding machines having low open-circuit
voltage."  

To the "NEWBIE" 

If you are a beginner, trying to learn to weld, and don't
have a class room handy, 6013 and a reliable AC welder, and
some of the other teaching books my Lincoln and other major
welding suppliers give you a good chance to make it on your
own.  6013  is probably one of the easiest all position rods
to weld with, It is forgiving about how it is stored - a
plastic tube holder with an "O" ring works quite well, and
using AC takes arc blow out of the picture until the you are
ready to deal with it.

You can have a pretty capable "garage project" (oh dear,
that may start the flames, well, at least I didn't say
"Hobby") welding shop with the following equipment:

225 Amp AC Transformer welder  
Small import horizontal bandsaw
A welding/cutting stand you make your self as a first
project
Vise to mount on your stand.
!/2" bench or floor standing drill press and a set of drills
to 1/2"
4.5" angle grinder and some "wheels" for it
some "C" clamps (you will never have enough)
1/2" variable speed pistol grip drill with a screw in
auxiliary handle, something  in the  800 rpm range (does all
that a 3/8 drill does and can use the same bits as the drill
press).
Couple of hammers - at least one 2.5 to 3lb "beater" and a
smaller one for center punching, etc.
Center punch, cold chisel, scriber, rat tail file, box of
soap stone, and a nice file to sharpen it,
and last but not least, a bone yard

With some careful shopping, looking in the recycler, etc.
that capability can probably set up for $800 to $1,400.
Thats a lot of capability for that much money.  You can
build trailers, engine hoists, repair farm machinery, build
farm machinery, make lathe stands, build other tools,
wonderful non-sag gates, patio furniture, custom outdoor
grill stands, and general have a really fine time living
life in the creative first person.  At least I did for a lot
of years.

Make friends in the welding store.  Becoming a regular, even
though only few dollar a buy, customer will get you a lot of
free information in a welding store.  Buying your welder
there will more than repay the couple of extra dollars you
will spend on it.  

After "doing it" for a while you will almost certainly want
to add an Oxy/Acet cutting/welding/brazing capability.  The
torch is probably the most dangerous of the equipment
because of the acetylene.  Its not bad if you know its
quirks, but if you don't, you can get in serious trouble, or
worse.  

Get the "welding store" where you buy it to give you a
couple of hours of safety training on it before you take it
home.  Probably you will use the torch most for cutting,
which consumes a lot of oxygen, so you may want an extra
oxygen cylinder if you really "get into it" and start
building large projects with a lot of cutting, and hate it
when you run out of oxygen and there is no place open to get
some.  (Some where it was written that Fitch shall only run
out of oxygen after Saturday noon.  Fitch has two oxygen
tanks.)  A good Oxy/Acet outfit will cost $350 to $600 new
depending on the tanks, etc.  

You will want a couple of pair of forge tongs after you burn
your hands a few times on hot metal.  

You will also use the torch for *bending* metal.  Its almost
as handy for bending as it is for cutting.  You can bend
some awsomely strong stuff by heating it up.

That brings the investment up to $1,150 to $2,000.    You
can build so much stuff with that as a shop that it boggles
the mind.

Then you will probably want an anvil - which can start a
whole thread all by itself.

And then a forge, and then, if you weren't before, you are
surely a goner.  You will never again have "spare time".
One of the few things more addictive than the feel of laying
in a nice bead of weld is heating and beating metal on an
anvil.

The last thing I would add is a small MIG unit unless the
only things you want to build are made of sheet metal.  Good
ones of these can run $500 to $1,200 depending on how they
are set up and what sort of gas supply you get.  In terms of
general purpose bang for the buck, they can't really compete
with a stick welder except in special circumstances.  I have
one, and I really like it, but it would be the first thing
to go if I had to choose to lose something out of the shop.

A final observation.  By the time the AC welder in the shop
outlined above is grown out of, you won't need to ask what
welder to buy, you will have been drooling on its picture
for years.  Trust me on this.  Been there, done that.  Wore
out three Ranger 8 brochures before my wife bought me one.  

I hope you end up with a welder.  It is a tool that can set
your creative juices free.

Fitch
Dutifuly checking his book  ... 



From jfross@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:26 EST 1996
Article: 44151 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jfross@ix.netcom.com (John Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outlandish projects with old aero engines
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 21:57:19 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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On 13 Dec 1996 18:48:16 GMT, ae569@chebucto.ns.ca (Duane Forth) wrote:

>
>In regards to the subject, I once saw in a motorcycle mag an article on 
>an Australian nutbar who sliced two cylinders off a RR Merlin, mated it 
>to a 3 spd auto Holden car trans & built a motorcycle around it.  The 
>ultimate V-twin (~2500cc)?

It was 2500cc PER CYLINDER.  A 5-liter V-Twin.  And then he put
nitrous on it.  A man after my own heart.

JR


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:27 EST 1996
Article: 44152 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!nntp-hub3.barrnet.net!voder!nsc!news
From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: COMPLETE drill chart please!
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Frank Evan Perdicaro wrote:
> 
> I get a varitety of metric and inch nuts, bolts, taps and drills.  What
> I'd like is a chart that holds both metric and inch drills and taps and
> shows the hole size for every drill in both thousandths of and inch and
> millimeters.
> 
> The columns would be
> drill name;tap name;inch size of hole;mm size of hole

> 
> Anybody have such a chart?
> 
> --
> Frank Evan Perdicaro     

Frank, take a look at:

http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/homepage.htm

and push the "Experimental" button on the left. Page down and you will
see:

"Drill Chart Excel 5 formatted printout for drill sizes, metric
converstion and tapping info."

Which you can download. I haven't actually looked at my copy yet. Don't
know if it is exactly what you want, but it must be pretty close. 


-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 14:20:28 EST 1996
Article: 44153 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rust and other finishes
Date: 13 Dec 1996 23:53:16 GMT
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
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Philip Canaday (phil@pe.net) wrote:
: I am looking for a fast way to speed up rusting as a finish for steel
: art. Also would like to learn other ways to create unique finishes.
: Thank You
: Phil@pe.net

There are some old recipes (with really hard to get ingredients like  
mercuric chloride) on pages 334 and 335 of Foxfire book #5 edited by E. 
Wigginton. But you might want to call Dixie Gun Works and see if their 
bluing or browning solutions fit your needs. Their information number is 
901-885-0700. I've used their bluing compound (completely different from 
the type of brown or red finish you're talking about, but same general 
principle) on a muzzle loading reproduction and it worked really well.

Georgie




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:30 EST 1996
Article: 44154 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 13 Dec 1996 04:27:47 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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X-Newsreader: AOL Offline Reader

In article <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:

>I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
>asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
>have for sale.
>I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
>Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
>of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.
>
>

Ya don't fool me, I *know* you are holding out for a higher price!.

Peter



From kietzman@leland.Stanford.EDU Tue Dec 17 14:20:31 EST 1996
Article: 44155 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: kietzman@leland.Stanford.EDU (John William Kietzman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 16:38:33 -0800
Organization: Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <58ssu9$hj0@elaine7.Stanford.EDU>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <58kd2c$ea4@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32AE2F5F.61A3@erols.com> <58mm1r$pdr@watnews1.watson.ibm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elaine7.stanford.edu

Can anybody recommend a supplier of big (14"+ dia.), relatively
cheap bell jars for vacuum use?  I've got a Nalgene rig from
Fisher Scientific, which is about 12" dia. x 15" high jar,
but I now have some things a little bit bigger than that.


Thanks,

John Kietzman

kietzman@leland.stanford.edu
415 723 0565

Rapid Prototyping Lab
Stanford University


From mikeflip@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:33 EST 1996
Article: 44156 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mike <mikeflip@norfolk.infi.net>
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Subject: Re: $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:54:18 -0500
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FraiT wrote:
> 
> $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
> 
> Take five minutes to read this and it WILL change your life.
> 
> The Internet has grown tremendously. It doubles in size every 4 months. think
> about it. You see those 'Make.Money.Fast' posts more and more.
> That's ... because it WORKS !  So I thought, all those new users might
> make it work. And I decided to try it out, a few months ago. Besides,
> whats $5.00, I spend more than that in the morning on my way to work
> on coffee and cigs for the day. So I sent in my money and posted.Everyone was
> calling it a scam, but there are SO many new users from AOL, N
> 
> Well, two weeks later, I began recieving bucks in the mail!  I
> couldn't believe it! Not just a little, I mean big bucks!  At first only a few
> hundred dollars, then a week later, a couple of thousand, the
> By the end of the fourth week, I had recieved nearly $47,000.00. It came
> from all over the world. And every bit of it perfectly legal and on
> the up and up. I've been able to pay off all my bills and still had
> enough left over for a nice vacation for me and my family.
> 
> Not only does it work for me, it works for other folks as well. Markus
> Valppu says he made $57,883 in four weeks. Dave Manning claims he
> made $53,664 in the same amount of time. Dan Shepstone says it was only
> $17,000 for him. Do I know these folks? No, but when I read how they say they
> did it, it made sense to me. Enough sense that I'm taking a si
> 
> STEP 1.
> 
> Invest your $5 by writing your name and address on five seperate
> pieces of paper along with the words: "PLEASE ADD ME TO YOUR MAILING LIST."
> (In this way, you're not just sending a dollar to someone; you're paying
> for a legitimate service.) Fold a $1 bill inside each paper, and mail them by
> standard U. S. Mail to the following five addresses:
> 
>  1-Faroon Khan
>      12343 77A Avenue
>      Surrey, BC V3W2W9
> 
>  2-Hoffman Eric
>      3150 Riviere-Cachee
>      Boisbriand, PQ
>      Canada
>      J7H 1A3
> 
>  3-Stuart Koch
>      Connolly Hall Box C115
>      501 E. St. Joseph
>      Rapid City, SD 57701-3995
> 
>  4-Karen Lundgren
>      3889 Kencrest Ave.
>      Halifax, NS
>      Canada
>      B3K 3L4
> 
>  5-Koen Hermkens
>    Deweverstraat 22
>    6361 BX ,  Nuth
>    Netherlands  EUROPE
> 
> STEP 2.
> 
>     Now remove the top name from the list, and move the
>     other names up.This way, #5 becomes #4 and so on.
>     Put your name in as the fifth one on the list.
> 
> STEP 3.
> 
>     Post the article to at least 250 newsgroups. There are at
>     least 19000 newsgroups at any given moment in time.
>     Try posting to as many newsgroups as you can. Remember
>     the more groups you post to, the more people will see your
>     article and send you cash!
> 
> STEP 4.
> 
>     You are now in business for yourself, and should start seeing
>     returns within 7 to 14 days! Remember, the Internet is new
>     and huge. There is no way you can lose.
> 
>     Now here is how and why this system works:
> 
>     Out of every block of 250 posts I made, I got back 5 responses.
>     Yes, thats right,only 5. You make $5.00 in cash, not checks or
>     money orders, but real cash with your name at #5.
> 
>     Each additional person who sent you $1.00 now also makes 250
>     additional postings with your name at #4, 1000 postings. On
>     average then, 50 people will send you $1.00 with your name at
>     #4,....$50.00 in your pocket!
> 
>     Now these 50 new people will make 250 postings each with your
>     name at #3 or 10,000 postings. Average return, 500 people= $500.
>     They make 250 postings each with your name at #2= 100,000
>     postings=5000 returns at $1.00 each=$5,000.00 in cash!
> 
>     Finally, 5,000 people make 250 postings each with your name at
>     #1 and you get a return of $60,000 before your name drops off
>     the list.And that's only if everyone down the line makes only 250
>     postings each! Your total income for this one cycle is $55,000.
> 
>     From time to time when you see your name is no longer on the list,
>     you take the latest posting you can find and start all over again.
> 
>                 The end result depends on you. You must follow through
>                 and repost this article everywhere you can think of.
>                 The more  postings you  make, the more cash ends up in
>                 your mailbox. It's too easy and too cheap to pass up!!!
> 
>     So thats it. Pretty simple sounding stuff, huh? But believe me, it
>     works. There are millions of people surfing the net every day, all
>     day, all over the world. And 100,000 new people get on the net
>     every day. You know that, you've seen the stories in the paper.
>     So, my friend, read and follow the simple instructions and play
>     fair. Thats the key, and thats all there is to it. Print this out
>     right now so you can refer back to this article easily. Try to keep
>     an eye on all the postings you made to make sure everyone is
>     playing fairly. You know where your name should be.
> 
>     If you're really not sure or still think this can't be
>     for real, then don't do it. But please print this article and pass
>     it along to someone you know who really needs the bucks, and see
>     what happens.
> 
>     REMEMBER....HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY.YOU DON'T
>     NEED TO CHEAT THE BASIC IDEA TO MAKE THE BUCKS!
>     GOOD LUCK TO ALL, AND PLEASE PLAY FAIR AND YOU WILL
>     WIN AND MAKE SOME REAL INSTANT FREE CASH!
> 
> *** By the way, if you try to deceive people by posting the messages
> with your name in the list and not sending the bucks to the people
> already included, you will not get much. I know someone who did this
> and only got about $150 (and that's after two months). Then he sent
> the 5 bills, people added him to their lists, and in 4-5 weeks he had
> over $10,000!
> 
>                 TRY IT AND YOU'LL BE HAPPY!!!  :o) !!!!!!!!!!
fuck off!


From cjg1@cris.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:34 EST 1996
Article: 44157 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: "Christopher J. Galbraith" <cjg1@cris.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:39:21 -0500
Organization: ...very little as of last Friday :)
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com>
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Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
(I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??

TIA
-Chris



From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Tue Dec 17 14:20:36 EST 1996
Article: 44158 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news01.aud.alcatel.com!news.alcatel.fr!news-paris.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news
From: Don Holly <dholly@psl.wisc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 19:09:46 GMT
Organization: UW-Madison
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <58s9lq$1hvi@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com>
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"David A. Holly" <dholly@erols.com> wrote:

> I read, in Beeman's Airgun Digest, that
>some of the old bellows type air rifles were powerful enough to hunt elk
>with.  I think that a modern version of a bellows gun, with the bellows 

What's a bellows type air rifle? 

While I know people used to make air rifles which were used in
hunting, I thought they were still very low-powered compared to
firearms. Not true?

By the way, congratulations on an excellent username.

Don Holly
dholly@psl.wisc.edu



From netw6000@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:37 EST 1996
Article: 44159 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in2.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: netw6000@aol.com (Netw6000)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: >>>>>> "Welding Secrets" Book <<<<<<
Date: 14 Dec 1996 01:11:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 210
Message-ID: <19961214011100.UAA01508@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com



                          "Welding Secrets"

              No Other Book Will Prevent More Accidents

Have you ever seen a book that tells you where NOT to weld? This one 
does. "Welding Secrets" was written by a welder with 49 years 
experience. Amazing facts explained in simple terms with 75 
photographs and 10 sketches.

"Welding Secrets" explains why a weld bead shrinks more where it stops 
than it does where it starts. Also... pictures of test welds to show 
the difference between "free expansion" and "confined expansion".

If you believe that the stresses caused by welding do not harm the 
workpiece, you are right - except when the weld is made under confined 
expansion.

Lack of knowledge is no defense in a court of law. Surely you have 
read about the law suits caused by the breast implants and asbestos. 
Research has proven that a weld in the wrong place will cause a break. 
Not in the weld, but adjoining the weld. Breaks cause accidents which 
kill people. If you weld something for someone else and it breaks and 
causes damage... you can be SUED. You could lose everything you own. 
Learn about the places that should NOT be welded. Order "Welding 
Secrets" TODAY! 

"For years I've been trying to think of a way to warn the public of a 
hazard that threatens their lives. The deaths of ten people in 
Chicago, caused by a faulty weld, has prompted me to write. We have 
heard of trailers breaking loose from cars, catwalks falling, 
construction accidents, bridges falling, and airplane crashes. Has 
anyone ever thought that perhaps the welders did not know where NOT to 
weld? Do the inspectors and engineers know where not to weld? I am 80 
years old, a grammar school drop-out, and have been welding since 
1936. If I had been educated I probably would have turned up my nose 
at welding. Have you ever known a college graduate taking a job as a 
welder? In my opinion, welding has been grossly neglected by the 
educators."
                        Hal Wilson - Author of "Welding Secrets"


Spend 1 Hour Reading "Welding Secrets" and You Will Learn:

How to flatten a warped steel frame in one minute without heat or 
     hammer
How to weld window screen wire to a steel frame
How to remove a bad bearing race from a hole
How to square a frame by welding or peening
How to burn a lap weld and save both pieces
How to temper a chisel without using heat colors
How to repair a crack in a pipe or tubing
How to burn a nut off a bolt and save the threads
How to flux melted lead, babbit, or solder
How to remove a stuck sleeve from a hole
How to burn through a large steel shaft
How to make a smooth cut with a cutting torch
How to build up a worn shaft and prevent it from breaking off at the 
     end of the welds
How to shrink a nut or expand a nut
How to weld thick and thin metals together
How to run a smooth bead
How to weld overhead
How to weld vertically
How to shrink a steel pulley
How to reinforce the inside of tubing
How to flatten a bulged circle
How to remove a broken off bolt
How to remove a broken off tap
Thermal conductivity & thermal expansion of metals
Simple hardness tester
Cast iron welded with nickel electrodes
Direction of travel and back-stepping
And much, much more!


                           TESTIMONIALS...

Dear Mr. Wilson:

I received the welding book and I am really impressed with the 
information in it. I also like the "down to earth" way the book is 
written in. I especially liked the section on not welding the ends and 
on relieving stress in welded parts. I have taught high school classes 
for 22 years, and I commend you on your lifetime of welding, and your 
willingness to share your secrets! Thank you very much and I wish you 
the very best in your retirement.

                         Yours Truly, Jim M.



Gentlemen:

We have used your book "Welding Secrets", 2nd Edition, by Hal Wilson, 
as a training guide for some time. We would appreciate knowing if you 
have published subsequent books on the same subject.

                         Sincerely, William M. 


Dear Hal,

I've got to tell you that I carried your ad around in my pocket for 
over a week trying to decide if I should spring for the $39 --- Well, 
I'm certainly glad I did --- I'm an amateur blacksmith and play around 
with iron a lot. But some of the info in your book will not be found 
in any other --- I know I read a lot. I made some copies of the ad you 
sent (Hope that's OK!) and I'm going to spread them around --- maybe I 
can help you sell a few.

Experience is the very best teacher and you've shared tricks that 
others would keep to themselves.

                         Thanks, David


Dear Mr. Wilson:

I am enclosing a check for a copy of Welding Secrets for my son. Your 
book arrived yesterday and what a wealth of knowledge it contained! 
I'm so glad you put it in print so your expertise can be passed on.
I very much enjoyed our telephone conversation. Best of God's 
blessings to you.

                         Sincerely, Fred B.



Received your Welding Secrets yesterday - very good book - please send 
a book to my friend.

                         Many Thanks, Bob


Hal:

Excellent book for beginners and certified welders. Many interesting 
ideas that the average person does not know. I will make it standing 
reference material for all new personnel.

                         Al

Dear Sir/Madam:

I have read your book cover to cover and I love it that someone of 
this massive knowledge and talent has placed his/her ideas down on 
paper and shared them with others. Would you please send me two more 
copies and charge to my MasterCard. 

                         Very Truly, Sam S.


Dear Mr. Wilson,

Many thanks for your advice, samples, and helpfulness. You are indeed 
a real gentleman and a scholar!

                         Sincerely, James K.



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

                     ***** NOW ONLY $39.95 *****

                        It's Easy To Order!... 
          We accept 3 payment methods for your convenience: 
              1) Checks by Fax (see instructions below).
               2) Visa/Master Card (via fax or Email). 
               3) Or... mail your check/money order to:  
       Network 6000, Inc.    PO Box 474    Woodstock, GA 30188


Please include this form with your order: 
(no PO's or Amex/Disc please)

Phone  (        ) ________________________        Order # 250

Company___________________________________      

Name______________________________________      

Addr______________________________________      

City____________________________ State_____ Zip______________    

Card #____________________________________

Expiration Date:__________________________

Signature:________________________________

Our Fax #: 770-926-8354
Email Address: netw6000@aol.com


>>> All orders are shipped within 24 hours via First Class Mail <<<

       For the fastest possible service and Same Day Shipping, 
                      We Accept Checks by Fax...

Please tape your signed $39.95 check above the order form, above the 
dotted line, and fax it to us. If you fax your payment in to us, 
please do not mail your check to us. Keep your check as your receipt 
and adjust your bank balance. We will convert your check into a bank 
draft and deposit it directly into our bank. Please do not fax money 
orders.



From reddog@pcii.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:38 EST 1996
Article: 44160 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.mwci.net!not-for-mail
From: reddog@pcii.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: beginner needs help!
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:19:35 -0600
Organization: Four Corners Ranch
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <32B05AC6.7EEF@pcii.net>
References: <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32A83045.76F3@cyberhighway.net>
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Can anyone recommend an instruction book for a beginner wanting to cut
simple metal shapes. I've got some small patterns I've made out of wood
and would like to try them in metal. I tried the scroll saw but couldn't
hold the metal down enough. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Mary


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:39 EST 1996
Article: 44161 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.voicenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!news.azstarnet.com!in1.nntp.cais.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Apologies to all.
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:04:36 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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In a recent post in an "astrolabe" thread, I blasted a number of people and one person 
in particular, about asking unneccessary questions.  I suggested that the asked 
questions could have eaily been answered if the person had only taken the trouble to 
check a couple of the available search engines.

I also went on a rant about the fact that people do not seem to be using the Thomas 
Register Online to answer their questions.

Well, I received a number of email messages from people, explaining to me, that even 
though someone may have access to Usenet, that does not automatically mean, that that 
same person also has access to the Web.

That simply never occured to me, because of the availability of full Net accounts for 
incredibly low cost these days.

However, I do feel that I owe everyone, who has asked such questions as mentioned above, 
and who does not have access to the Web, a full and humble apology.

As far as the rest of you ........... :-)

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:40 EST 1996
Article: 44162 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: small machines for sale
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:55:14 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 88
Message-ID: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com>
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Mime-Version: 1.0
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Dec 14 12:55:06 PM PST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)

greetings all

here are several small mills & lathes for sale
the photo location is listed under each item
feel free to call, email or use Western Union to discuss them


used Millrite vertical milling machine
8" x 36" t-slotted table
r-8 spindle
tilt and swivel head (not common on most millrites)
1hp
set of collets
nice condition
price $1,950.00

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/1105.jpg


used Clausing horizontal milling machine
model 8540    s/n 800602
7" x 26" t-slotted table
power feed to table
2 speed handwhell  (nice feature)
52-2000 rpm   hi-lo gearing
arbor support
#30 taper, assorted toolholders
this machine is in first class condition
price $2,500.00

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/1177.jpg


used Rockwell lathe
model 25-700  s/n1576031   cabinet style
10" x 24" capacity
3&4 jaw chuck, 4 way toolpost
5-c draw bar w/assorted collets
paint is a little rough but a good solid machine
price $2,450.00

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/1145.jpg


used Logan lathe
model 825   s/n 29998   cabinet style
11" x 24" capacity
6" 3-jaw
face plate, steady rest, drill chuck
good condition
price $1,850.00

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/1144.jpg


used Soutbend lathe
s/n 21556r
10" x 32" capacity
flame hardened bed
d1-3 camlock spindle
4&6 jaw chuck, micr. carriage stop, dog plate
very good condition    nice ways
price $2,950.00

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/967.jpg


used Clausing lathe
model 6913  s/n 601358  
14" x 48" capacity
flame hardened bed
43 - 1650 rpm vari-speed
***taper attachment***
3&4 jaw chuck, face & dog plate, steady & follow rest
5-c quick action draw bar  w/assorted collets
first class condition
price $4,450
also available 6 position bed turret $1,250
quick action (Hardinge type) cross slide $500

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/1176.jpg


thats all folks...............


andy popky
516 385 9452


From kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:42 EST 1996
Article: 44163 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!tezcat!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!uucp4.uu.net!xyzzy!bcstec!nntp
From: Ken Finney <kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Small Lathe recommendations?
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: e550360.knt.boeing.com
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References: <32AF17C0.3592@hotmail.com> <19961212200700.PAA12714@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 20:20:55 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32AF17C0.3592@hotmail.com>, nojunkmail@hotmail.com writes:
> 
> >As far as I'm concerned USENET is a participative forum not a black hole
> >which you drop a question into whenever your stuck and expect someone
> >else to do your research and apprenticeship for you.
> >
>It really peeves me too. The arrogance of these
> people. If they can get on to the NG to post the message then they should
> at least visit a while until they get the answer. Fortunately most people
> here usually ignore sauch request but is good to keep reminding us.
> 

Requesting that people do this is not a bad thing, especially on busy newsgroups or
if you will to unable to check the newsgroup for a couple of days because of travel, 
etc.  This is especially true of companies that are gracious enough to host newsgroups
at work, for their employees enjoyment.  Many of these companies do not devote
huge amounts of server space and messages sometime scroll off in less than a day.
What I feel is necessary is that when you send an email response, post it to the
newsgroup also.  This way everyone benefits.


From kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:43 EST 1996
Article: 44164 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!dciteleport.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!uucp4.uu.net!xyzzy!bcstec!nntp
From: Ken Finney <kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com>
Subject: Re: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: e550360.knt.boeing.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 20:26:16 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Can't see the point either but it begs another question loosely related.
> 
> Why are there hundreds of company names in the LA Times classifieds. If
> you read through it they list the names of companies then some ads then
> more company names and more ads. What for? Do these companies pay?
> 
> Peter
> Still curious.

If memory serves, newspapers offer substantial discounts to companies that
agree to continuously advertise.  It is worth the discount to just pay for
an ad that says "xyz company" until you have something better to say.  Sort
of like the "REAL WORLD (tm)" equivalent to a usenet "me too" message.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:20:44 EST 1996
Article: 44165 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!engr.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!mr.net!news.mid.net!sbctri.tri.sbc.com!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 05:43:57 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <58teqt$jds@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <19961213033800.WAA27378@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961213172600.MAA17452@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: artsci.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
: In article <19961213033800.WAA27378@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
: lwc1220@aol.com writes:

: Thanks Wayne, I have resolved the problem by bolting the spacers to a
: faceplate and machining in sets of four. However I had started thinking
: about a flexible coupling. I am investigating something along the lines
: you have deescribed but using a hefty compression spring instead of hose.

: The spring I am trying is very very stiff but it flexes longitutudinaly
: reasonably easily. I am hoping this will give me a fixed rotational drive
: but allow for misalignment.

The standard shaft coupling for precision leadscrew drive is a solid block
of metal, often aluminum, which is bored through for the shaft diameter.
Then, the center section is cut in a way that allows the necessary flexing
while retaining rotational stiffness.  One favored way is to cut a helical
slot that runs for at least five turns all the way to the center bore.
You can look in Stock Drive Products, W.M. Berg or other catalogs and see
excellent pictures of these, probably in smaller sizes than you need.
Another design uses alternating straight cuts that leave enough material
for strength.  This would be easy to make with a jeweler's saw in the
mill.  The helical cut is a little trickier, but I think it could be done
with a thin abrasive cutting wheel in a tool-post grinder on the lathe,
or free hand on a bandsaw.
I'm afraid your spring might not be stiff enough, and getting it aligned
properly when attaching to the shaft collets is going to be tricky.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
						Jon



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:20:46 EST 1996
Article: 44166 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!engr.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 06:37:11 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova) wrote:

>For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
>with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
>withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. I decided that the stuff
>used in the tubes which I am making the transmitter out of is the best,
>which is some sort of ceramic very similar to the clay used in clay pots.
>I decided to take a broken pot from the basement and try to mill it, with
>the obvious problem of chipping aand extreme dulling of the cutter. I need
>a fairly precise cut for maximum heat transfer. I guess diamond bits will
>work, but I haven't seen any for sale, and I think they are very
>expensive. The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
>to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should I
>just give up? Thanks for any info.

>Alex.

I doubt the heat conducting capability (thermal resistance) of clay
pot material is good enough to keep the tubes cool.  Most of the
high-power tube sockets that I have seen are porcelain, and if I'm not
mistaken it is denser and conducts heat better.

I would expect that a well-planned mold could be used with wet
porcelain to form the socket which would then require only minimal
machine work.  

Another possible source might be the ceramic plates that hybrid IC's
and multi-chip-modules are made on.  Those are already quite flat and
smooth and MCM panels are as large as 4" square and maybe .100" thick.
These usually use ceramic for heat dissipation reasons, so the
material may be the type you need.

Hope this helps
-Reckless



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:47 EST 1996
Article: 44167 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:54:20 GMT
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randyr@ibm.net wrote:

>I've been welding now for 35 years and used an old Lincoln 180 amp AC 
>welder that was made in 1957. 

The one with the plug in cable connections?  The neighboor
on the farm across the road had one of those.  I welded up a
lot of stuff with it.  I think it also had a "fine
adjustment" set of three (?) plugin holes to use with each
major setting.  It was a tad bit smaller phycisally than my
AC 225 and didn't need a cooling fan as I recall (it *was*
40+ years ago that I used it).  

>I now use mostly a 250amp Miller mig. 

Drool.  One of my brothers in has has one of those.  He
loves it.  Uses it for body work on the cars he restores for
a living, and anything else he needs to weld.  

>I've 
>built literally hundreds of projects over the years. My suggestions to new
>welders are to acquire the following equip (depending on their budget) in this
>order.

>- Lincoln 225amp welder set from Home depot, etc.

>   Gas torch is more flexible but harder to master
>   MIG is more forgiving to the new welder but more costly for the size of job.

>- Floor metal bandsaw

>   Portable power bandsaws can be useful but not as precision as the floor one.
>   You'd rather not use a hacksaw

>- 4 or 4 1/2" right angle grinder

>   Use with assorted grind rocks, wire wheels, etc.

>-  Good import drill press. - preferably 1/2" 

>    
>Other things to have around for your project.
>  Metal square
>  Chipping hammer
>  BFH (big hammer)
>  Soapstone
>  Vise Grip welding clamps (I've had nothing but bad luck with the imports)

So true.  The imitations just don't last worth beans.
  
>Safety

>  Welding helmet and gloves
>  Face shield for grinding and drilling

Your list and mine sure agree.  I think we have been welding
about the same length of time - I started in 1956.  Are you
by chance self taught also?

>If you are really serious about welding after your trailer project, the next thing
>to build is a welding table. They vary in size. Mine is made from a 4x8 sheet of
>1/2" plate steel. Would take the world for it. Moved it down from NC to TX when
> I moved here last Feb.

Right on!  I have one of those - bought it through the
recycler - $100.00 I think.  Feel the same way about it.  It
follows me the rest of my life.  Only 4' X 5' though, but
with a 3/4" top.  *Very* handy.  (And real darn heavy.)
Mine is outdoors where I do most of my welding.  I set it on
metal plates under the casters to keep it from sinking out
of sight when it rains.  I use the fork lift attachment on
my tractors three point hitch when I have to move it.  I
also like to use an open angle iron stand - especiallly for
cutting.  

I'm giving serious consideration to building the Radial Arm
Flame Cutter described inthe Metal Web News by Richard
Walker.  I like the looks of the pipe frame he has it
mounted on.  Looks really practical, not to heavy (compared
with the other solid top table), and it could be carried in
the back of the 5' by 8' trailer that has my Ranger 8 and
torch mounted on it.  I'd probably build it out of angle or
square tube though - would make it easier to clamp things up
on it for welding.

I've also given consideration to building a skeleton
tailgate for it that could be slid into a holder welded to
the side rails on my trailer to make an eractable welding
table that took no space in the trailer.  (I like to carry
my 2hp air compressor in the back of it also - I can run it
using the 8,000 watt auxiliary generator in the Ranger 8).

Fitch






From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:49 EST 1996
Article: 44168 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:56:08 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 54
Message-ID: <32b24e6b.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <32b0b4db.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:

>>The warning at work indicated it is a carrier for the Trojan
>>Horse Virus and will almost certainly destroy all your data,
>>and will also try to propigate itself from your PC to all
>>the others for which it finds addresses on your hard disk.
>>
>>T

>I can't see how mail text can become active as a virus Fitch. Not saying
>it is not possible but having spent the odd few years with a compiler
>(circa 1974) I can't see how it could replicate itself from text.

>Text is benign, it can't go anywhere unless it becomes a program. Perhaps
>if the text is UUENCODEd there could be an imbedded section that generates
>the program, you would still need to run that program for it to *do*
>anything.

>Anyone who runs a new program without *first* checking it for viruses
>deserves whatever they get.

>Just reading the text could not cause any harm that I can see. It's a good
>warning though, reminding us that viruses still abound out there and not
>to run anything without first scanning it.

>Peter

You are probably correct (Although I have seen very clever
people do some surprising things with an AllIn1 E-mail
message - and there are some very clever and creative,
albiet a bit sick, folks out there).  I received a nice
informative E-mail from a discrete gentleman who didn't want
to embarass me which I appreciate.  He stated that this
thing was a hoax and backed it up with some information from
a government internet source.  I will extract the meat from
his message and forward it to the folks at my employers IT
organization. - protecting his ID.   He indicated it had
been picked up by and fooled his IT organization as well.

Still, having run a 1,000 user network for a while, I can
tell you it pays to keep your eyes open.  The network I ran
has hosted on VAXs running VMS which made it immune to PC
virus infections.  Propigation was almost non-existant - we
stopped several infections at two PCs, both infected by
floppies brought from infected home machines.  We still
forced virus checks every time a user booted a PC, or once a
day, which ever was less.

Fitch




From rnorris583@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:50 EST 1996
Article: 44169 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rnorris583@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 01:25:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>Jim Waggener wrote:
>> 
>> Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
>> chucks, tooling?
>> 
>> Jim Waggener

Just received the November issue of Model Engineer Workshop and it has a
ten page article on "Metal Spinning For The Biginner"  Contact Wise Owl
Publications for a copy. They are listed in the FAQ list..

Ron Norris


From hstoll@wcfa.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:52 EST 1996
Article: 44170 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Holly Stoll <hstoll@wcfa.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:03:35 -0600
Organization: WCF and Associates, Inc.
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Tim Robinson wrote:
> 
> In article <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>,
>    zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:
>
> 
> You don't save people by irritating the Hell out of them.
> 
>
Tim, Was the Pun intended. (ROLFLPIMP)

Holly


From hstoll@wcfa.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:53 EST 1996
Article: 44171 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Holly Stoll <hstoll@wcfa.com>
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Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:04:30 -0600
Organization: WCF and Associates, Inc.
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Saved Soul wrote:
> 
> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

According to my office mate, the old bible verse states,

"Idle hands are the devils tools"

Holly


From shepard@blazng.hlo.dec.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:54 EST 1996
Article: 44172 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shepard@blazng.hlo.dec.com (Dave Shepard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: 13 Dec 1996 23:32:08 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
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I believe 3 1/8" sockets are a standard size in 1" drive socket sets.
I can think of two sources:

  Most repair shops that work on large trucks, buses, etc.. will have
  a set of these with a breaker bar and ratchet.  Perhaps you can work
  something out with one of the mechanics.

  Some tool rental places (Taylor rental in the N.E. US) will rent large
  socket sets for reasonable prices.

  If you end up wanting to buy one, most places that sell large socket
  sets will stock them.  You could get a cheap set with this size through
  Harbor Freight tools I bet.

Cheers,
--Dave


From leehp@pappas.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:55 EST 1996
Article: 44173 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: leehp@pappas.com (Lee H. Pappas)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:50:08 -0500
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To all:

Please end this thread...your postings are being submitted not just to your
newsgroup, but dozens, if not hundreds of others.

-Lee




In article <32AD248B.528D@weir.net>, gshaffer@weir.net wrote:

> Anne Carey wrote:
> > 
> > In article <32AAECAB.4EFC@ipass.net>, stardust@ipass.net wrote:
> > 
> > > No offense meant but most people who have access to a computer have
> > > access to both a Bible (there are such areas online even) and a church..
> > > posting this sort of message on every base is spamming.. and one massage
> >                                                                ~~~~~~~~~~~
> > > from you will NOT save my soul..last I heard that was between a person
> > > and God..
> > 
> > I don't know...depends on how good the massage is.... :D
> > 
> > Annie
> 
> I wish Christian zealots would get a life somewhere else.
> 
>           Gary Shaffer

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Lee H. Pappas                       | www.pappas.com/~leehp
Magazine Publisher/Founder of:      | email: leehp@pappas.com
VideoGames & Computer Entertainment | ------------------------------
A.N.A.L.O.G. Computing              | > Magazine Publishing 
ST-Log                              | > Custom Publishing
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VISIO                               | > Consumer electronics
TurboPlay                           | > Entertainment Software
Picture This!                       | > www design
Popular Home Automation


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:57 EST 1996
Article: 44174 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 22:42:27 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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Jim,

You know, there was a time when I was hoping to get to meet you
somehow, perhaps at the NAMES show.  Now I'm not so sure.

You are one sick puppy!!! ;-}


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:20:58 EST 1996
Article: 44175 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinery's Handbook Online
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 10:07:04 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32b27c01.617098212@news.pacbell.net>
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Thanks for the URL, Scott. 
Nice site, especially with the online index to the handbook!

>Hey all,
>
>Am I the last one to notice that the venerable Machinery's Handbook
>has a web site?
>
>They have a survey which we should all take to get them to produce a
>CD-ROM version.
>
>Check 'em out at:
>
>http://www.industrialpress.com/handbook/index.html for the general MH
>home page, or:
>
>http://www.industrialpress.com/handbook/cdsurvey1.html for the survey.
>
>Scott Logan
>ssl@loganact.com
>www.loganact.com

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 14:20:59 EST 1996
Article: 44176 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ENCO Lathes
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:49:51 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B045BF.7ACF@silcom.com>
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Mark Winlund wrote:
> 
> At the risk of starting another battle royale, I'd say wait a while... like 50
> years. Enco is not noted for their service, quality, or anything else.
> 
> Regards, Mark
I have a small 6x30 Enco lathe, bought about 5 years ago.  Have been
very happy with it.  None of the horror stories that I've read about
happened to me.  
A gear axle needed remachining, and the thing could use more horsepower,
but it works find for cutting close diameter parts and threading, which
is what it does most days.

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:00 EST 1996
Article: 44177 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 09:23:57 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Mike Henry wrote:
>Please pardon the ignorance, but what does one use a shaper for?  It
>sounds like something I'd like to have <g>.
>
Think of a plane for metal. :-) Or a mechanized cold chisel.

A shaper will do a lot of the stuff a milling machine will do, only not as
fast. What's more the cutter is usually a simple device, like a lathe tool,
not a mill.

--RC


From stangier@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:01 EST 1996
Article: 44178 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stangier <stangier@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Die Filer
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 23:13:39 -0800
Organization: proaxis.com
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Keller Die Filer  Model 1A
2-way tilting table with over head arm, and work hold down support
1/3 HP 120 VAC single phase motor.
Mounted on factory cast iron base.

$150.00  

If interested E-Mail me:  stangier@proaxis.com


From rmm20@eng.amdahl.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:03 EST 1996
Article: 44179 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 17:11:54 GMT
Lines: 31

In <32B0E996.6AAA@micron.net>, Terry Nelson <tmnelson@micron.net> writes:
..
>Mine was off about 1.5 marks from being level. Of course this is ajustable once
>you get past the red goo locking the adjustment screw. (Acetone worked for me).
>
>The leveling mechanism for these is really cute. I'll try to explain it. The 
>adjusting screw has two threaded sections. The top section is larger than the
>bottom section, and threads into the holder for the  sightglass. The lower smaller
>diameter portion threads into the base of the level. The sightglass is mounted 
>on a pivot on the other end.  The two threaded sections have different pitches
>so that a full turn of the screw changes the height on the adjusting end of the
>sightglass the DIFFERENCE of the screw pitches. There is also a spring pushing
>upward on the adjusting end to remove the clearance for the threads.
>

This was a wonderful post from Terry.  I bought the J & L 8", and the physical condition        
matches his 10" description. If you run your finger over the hand scraped pattern,
the texture is deep enough to be noticeable.  I would guess 4-16 bearing points / square inch.
But wear is not a consideration.  It sits nice and flat on a surface plate.
Turning the level end-for-end, I had one division off on the readout, and was wondering
how to zero it.  It has the same two red-locked screws, and it sounds like the adjustment
is the same. I was very reluctant to take apart this new level to see how it worked,
so Terry's post really helped.  I will find the Acetone when I get home.

All in all, well worth what I paid.  Not as nice as a Starrett, but I could not
afford the price on even a used Starrett which was four times as much.

 - Robert Mitchell - rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
                     robert@mithril.cupertino.ca.us




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:04 EST 1996
Article: 44180 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:37:54 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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References: <19961210021300.VAA01403@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210170100.MAA21231@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58khe8$s5d@news-c1.gnn.com> <58pv2t$scp@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
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brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) wrote:

>Boris Beizer (bbeizer@gnn.com) wrote:


>: Here's the short course:
>[concise list of plastics do's and don't's deleted]

>Wow!  Now, posts like this make it worth sorting past the American vs
>Foreign machine posts, not to mention the odd (very odd) True Believers.....

>Thanks!

>Pete Brooks

Yeah, I notice that Boris is guilty of doing that fairely
often.  It *is* a feature for sure.

Thanks from me too.
Fitch




From alevy01@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:06 EST 1996
Article: 44181 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alevy01@aol.com (ALevy01)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Basic milling question
Date: 13 Dec 1996 08:31:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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     Thanks to all who responded to my question. Your answers were most
helpful.

     - A. Levy



From tekdad@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:07 EST 1996
Article: 44182 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tekdad@aol.com (TEKDAD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 13 Dec 1996 08:33:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I still consider myself a "NEWBIE WELDER" and only wish I had started many

years sooner.  I now have 2 machines, Lincoln 200 amp AC/DC stick and a
Lincoln Weldpack 100 w/mig kit.  Love them both.  Also have 14" abrasive
chop
saw and 4-1/2" right angle grinder.

I have never taken any classes and have confidence in my welds (lot's of
practice
followed by scientific testing of joints with a very large hammer.  I also
on occasion
cut thru my practice welds to inspect for penetration.

I would really like to hear what some of the projects are that many of the
other 
respondents have eluded to?  I have frequently stated that my welder is
the best
woodworking machine I ever purchased!  Why?  Because all of my woodwork
machines are now on roller bases and my table saw now sports a large
substantial
extension table with a T-Square fence that is accurate, will not slip when
locked,
will rip up to 36 inch wide.

Additionally I have built an adapter for my wood stove which allows me to
burn
wood pellets instead of cord wood, yet can switched back to cord wood in
only
a couple minutes.

My most recent project was a "Big Wheel Brush Mower" ( you know the kind
that
sells for $1000 and up!)  and was constructed for less than $100 including
the 
purchase of a used Rototiller from which to steel the motor.  It works
great and
my son has named it the MANGLER.

Sufice it to say that my welding equip has paid for itself many times
over!


From tlipton@ccnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:08 EST 1996
Article: 44183 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: T Lipton <tlipton@ccnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tips on assembly of steel frame for best precision
Date: 10 Dec 1996 03:00:42 GMT
Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest)
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <58ijor$1np@ccnet2.ccnet.com>
References: <586g9r$prl17@aken.eed.ericsson.se>
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eedvab@eed.ericsson.se (Vjekoslav Balas) wrote:

> I want to put together a steel frame (made of U profile steel)
> on 4 legs (eg. square steel profile) as support for some linear
> guides. I'd like this to turn out as precise as possible (flatness
> etc).
>
> 

Vjeko, Depending on just how accurate you want your frames to come out
there are several ways to proceed. To answer your first question, yes
there are many diffrent manufacturing specs for standard construction
materials. They material you mentioned in your post is called Channel 
here in the US. 
  Channel strikes me as a sub-optimal material for
construction of a precision weldment. I would start with a heavy wall
square or rectangle section tubing and attach your plates to that.
  I think also that you may have mis-interpeted earlier instructions about
the way the plates work. Generally when fabricating a frame that will be
used for a precision application the frame is built to resonable and
achievable tolerances. Then if high precision surfaces are required additional
plates or bosses are added to the frame in the nessesary places and machined
or ground afterwards. 
  It is important to note that if your frame is not rigid the accuracy of your
plate surfaces will be wasted. It is actually surprising how inexpensive precision 
grinding if the weldments are properly designed for these secondary operations.
  I would also recommend a full stress relief prior to any machining or grinding.


    Good Luck  TML
> 
> 



From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:09 EST 1996
Article: 44184 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 19:36:36 GMT
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In article <32B307E3.3E7@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
>Randolph Lee wrote:
>.....snip....  
>> "Absolved"! Kachung! (well only if the Deli coffee was no better than
>> grade III joe (one step up from  coffee pot cleaner and 2 steps up from
>> carbon
>>  remover) that sat in the pot all night boiling down ,to start with....
>> none
>> of that "Mocha Hazelnut" trebbel frothed yuppie stuff allowed) Coffee that
>> can double as paint remover should have been in the approved list above, as
>> should
>> certain grades of 'char' (tea in the americas) I have been given in UK
>> machineshopsAnyone caught at Harvey Racing Engines drinking Anything that 
is called 
>
>Cafe, Latte, Mocha etc is taken out back and Horsewhipped.
>
> 
>> the approved list now stands at:
>> Jolt Cola
>> Mountain Dew
>> Very Strong Coffee
>> Verry strong Tea
>> 
>> any additions?
>
>Straight Tonic Water (schweppes for the Schweppervesscence naturally)
>
>Jim " Oh to have met Commander Whitehead" Harvey
>bubbles!@hre.com
>http://hre.com
>

I've often found, after 14-16 straight hours of staring at chips, that
a small bottle of ol Jack Daniels is in order. What the hell, don't 
have to worry about customers commin round at 2 am.


From powers@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu Tue Dec 17 14:21:10 EST 1996
Article: 44185 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.apk.net!gwis.com!out2.nntp.cais.net!in1.nntp.cais.net!tezcat!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.cis.ohio-state.edu!bounce-bounce
From: powers@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 13 Dec 1996 08:51:25 -0500
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <58rn0tINNmgn@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: colon.cis.ohio-state.edu

 In article <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:
 
>I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
>asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
>have for sale.
>I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
>Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
>of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.

BLAST!  (an exclamation--not an order) ... I was just designing a
*huge* astrolabe powered by a radial engine to be built out of
the stuff and now I will have to change my design to make use of
commercially available adamantite and neutronium........Any suggestions
on how to machine antimatter on an old logan?

Thomas  who wanted to forge antimatter but has had problems getting an
anti-steel anvil....Centaur Forge ran out due to the holiday rush....
Columbus, OH


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:12 EST 1996
Article: 44186 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:13:31 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
>: After you set them on something, they take a while to settle
>: out - I usually make myself wait a minute before taking a
>: "reading" to be sure it is done settling.  The bubble moves
>: rather slowely the last little bit..

>: You might consider using a less sensitive level to get the
>: Master level in range.  Things have to be quite close or the
>: bubble will be hard against one end of the vile or another.

>: It was an excellent lesson in what is "rigid", and what
>: isn't.

>Yes, I really was amazed to find out that what I thought I'd gotten
>VERY level with a "machinist's level" was still WAY off.  I leveled
>my lathe well for the first time, and it got down to turning the foot
>pads 1/64th of a turn.  The level could have let me level it even better,
>but I couldn't cope with turning those feet finer than a 64th of a turn!
>I could plainly see warpage on the top of my mill's table, and concave
>wear on the bottom (as I moved the table). The sensitivity of these things
>is amazing!  I'm still finding new uses for it.

>					Jon

Jon,

I am still amazed too.  Dad bought one of the levels
Grizzley sells.  When that is dead center as near as I can
see, the Master Level is almost off scale in one direction
or the other, but close enough to start.  After doing the
leveling, the Grizzley looks about the same as it did.

I have 7/16 NF thread on my leveling screws.  I too run out
of skill at about 1/64 of a turn.  But you can see that
much, no problem.  These things would be the ultimate
marketing tool for a firm trying to sell all metal stands to
replace wooden lathe benches.  Trust me on this those of you
who have never used one.  They "go off scale" when you lean
your body weight on the typical wooden lathe bench.

Yes to measuring on the mill also.  I can see the difference
as I move the table and the weight of the vise goes over
center as it travels from side to side.  It moves the
equivelent of .0015" in 10 inches when it does that.  It
takes patience to observe it though.  I move the table a
bit, and then weight quite a while for the bubble to settle
back from the end it ran off to when I turn the crank, even
slowely.  

As an aside, where ever you are, it seems to take almost
exactly 23 hours for your posts to arrive on my ISPs server
in Lancaster CA.  About 8 hours longer than for Alberto's to
get here form London (which take about as long as the ones
>from  South America)..

Fitch



From tmnelson@micron.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:13 EST 1996
Article: 44187 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.micron.net!news
From: Terry Nelson <tmnelson@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:03:18 -0700
Organization: Micron Internet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32B20AE6.3EF0@micron.net>
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rmm20@eng.amdahl.com wrote:
> 
> In <32B0E996.6AAA@micron.net>, Terry Nelson <tmnelson@micron.net> writes:
> ..
> >Mine was off about 1.5 marks from being level. Of course this is ajustable once
> >you get past the red goo locking the adjustment screw. (Acetone worked for me).
> >
> >The leveling mechanism for these is really cute. I'll try to explain it. The
> >adjusting screw has two threaded sections. The top section is larger than the
> >bottom section, and threads into the holder for the  sightglass. The lower smaller
> >diameter portion threads into the base of the level. The sightglass is mounted
> >on a pivot on the other end.  The two threaded sections have different pitches
> >so that a full turn of the screw changes the height on the adjusting end of the
> >sightglass the DIFFERENCE of the screw pitches. There is also a spring pushing
> >upward on the adjusting end to remove the clearance for the threads.
> >
> 
> This was a wonderful post from Terry.  I bought the J & L 8", and the physical condition
> matches his 10" description. If you run your finger over the hand scraped pattern,
> the texture is deep enough to be noticeable.  I would guess 4-16 bearing points / square inch.
> But wear is not a consideration.  It sits nice and flat on a surface plate.
> Turning the level end-for-end, I had one division off on the readout, and was wondering
> how to zero it.  It has the same two red-locked screws, and it sounds like the adjustment
> is the same. I was very reluctant to take apart this new level to see how it worked,
> so Terry's post really helped.  I will find the Acetone when I get home.
> 

The two red locked screws visible from the outside are to center the sightglass holder.
I doubt you want to mess with them.  The adjusting screw is on the inside under the top 
cover.  I'll warn you, if you take the adjusting screw clear out, its a pain to get back
in right.  You must put it in the sightglass mount the CORRECT number of turns, then 
push down on the holder and continue screwing it into the base.  You WILL need a level
surface to know you are set up in the correct position. It took me several tries.

Terry


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:15 EST 1996
Article: 44188 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical min
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 07:31:09 GMT
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick) wrote:

>>Actual striking force (not pressure) depends largely on how compressible
>>the striking masses are.  If I drop an incompressible object onto another
>>incompressible object (this needs to include the planet it's attached to)
>>the actual striking fource would be infinite.  The obvious flaw here is that
>>nothing is incompressible.

>Thank you  .... this is exactly what I thought but I wasn't going to
>say anything on the possibility of making a fool out of myself. When
>nobody else mentioned this action/reaction business, I thought 'well,
>what do I know' ... .guess I still know a few things..

>Jens

Wow.  All this ft-lbs stuff.  Inelastic collisions!  I love
it when you write technical!  <G>

Fitch
Lets see, E = IR, I = C dv/dt, V = L di/dt, a+jb, Ciss,
Coss, gate charge, ... ahhhhh, its helping, feeling better
already, millisecond, microsecond, joule, watt-sec,
Millihenry, Farad, ... kilowatt, ,..... OK, ready for next
post.



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:16 EST 1996
Article: 44189 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 14 Dec 1996 03:18:38 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <58t6ae$bea@news.proaxis.com>
References: <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net> <19961209211500.QAA22771@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AD223D.6667@intnet.net> <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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We have a medium sized Ellis band saw which is normally dry. Previous to that, we 
had a Wellsaw which had coolant. I have never really seen much difference in blade 
life. The blades usually fail because of mis-use long before they wear out.

In commercial use (automatic bandsaws cutting the same shape during the life of the 
blade) coolant may have a greater effect on life.

Both Lennox and Nichols have excellent books (free) on bandsaw blades and their 
application.

Proper tension (not usually achievable with cheap saws) is very important to proper 
cutting and life. I bought a tension meter years ago, & it was worth the expense.

Hope this is useful.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:17 EST 1996
Article: 44190 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: 14 Dec 1996 03:34:15 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 17
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I have owned a Miller Synchrowave 300, a Lincoln 250 tig with all the bells and 
whistles, an old Gold Star (still have it) and currently use a Thermal Dynamics 
250GTS (?) inverter tig machine. Of all of those, The last is the best, primarily 
because of its low current control and adjustable cleaning (balance) on AC. Contrary 
to popular belief, bigger is not always better... the most difficult welding jobs 
are those that require close control and low current.

To answer your question, buy the best that you can afford, and look for good low 
current control. It will be hard to spend less than $2500 for this, even at an 
auction. (Was at an auction 4 days ago... a Miller Synchrowave 250 with a cooler 
went for $2300. New, they are about $2700! Can you believe it?  Remember, these are 
lifetime purchases... so buy the best you can.

Hope this is somewhat helpful...

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:18 EST 1996
Article: 44191 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Results: Chuck problem on 1860 JET lathe!
Date: 14 Dec 1996 03:43:25 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Well gentlemen, the replacement chuck came today, at it fit perfectly in both 
directions. I heard that they had a bunch of bad chucks. JET acted very responsibly 
in resolving this problem.

I will be doing some cutting tests and will report back.

By the way, contact on the taper AND the flat outer portion of the camlock is the 
correct way these chucks fit.  I now know far more than I ever wanted to about 
camlock chucks!

Thank you VERY much for all the help and advice, guys. This newsgroup is by far and 
away the best.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:19 EST 1996
Article: 44192 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 13 Dec 1996 11:42:47 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>
>>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.
>
>I agree ... I can make real pretty stuff but won't touch a structural
>job that could result in major (property or persanal) damage such as a
>trailer. Most welds I lay down are fine but there is always the one
>cold/low penetration joint that sneaks in. It's just not worth the
>risk.
>
>Jens

Very rarely happens except to people who have never used MIG. When I owned a fab 
shop, one of my new employees had just welded up a hitch bracket, was walking 
towards the customer with it in his hands, when the receiver tube literally fell off 
the bracket. You should have seen the expression on the customer's face. (and mine.) 
At any rate, you can easily see cold welding when working, and an experienced welder 
knows what will work and what wont. I often demonstrate cold welds to new employees 
to show them how nice they look.... and how useless they are.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:20 EST 1996
Article: 44193 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 13 Dec 1996 11:55:45 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Nah, the fingers just don't move where I tell 'em anymore!

ReGARDS, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:22 EST 1996
Article: 44194 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 13 Dec 1996 11:53:59 GMT
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References: <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <58mt4c$e6c@server.eng.dsea.com> <32af9606.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58pg9s$nud@server.eng.dsea.com> <32b0d92a.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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This message from Fitch was just about the best advice I 
have ever seen for a 
beginner. Especially about using 6013. I won't even let 
new people use anything else 
until I know they know what they are doing. (which is 
rare.)

This should be saved for the FAQ.

REgards, Mark



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:23 EST 1996
Article: 44195 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 07:36:11 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Peter:

Sorry, I was born in Spain and my mother was born in
Colombia. But as I said, the Ducati had its uses for me.
<LOL>

Alberto


From lesinokc@ionet.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:24 EST 1996
Article: 44196 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lesinokc@ionet.net (Les Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WOW!!  NICE NEWGROUP - I'M A CAD/CAM JEWELRY DESIGNER
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 05:33:50 GMT
Organization: ioNET
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Have been monitoring the alt.machines,cnc group forever and found this
group by mistake.  Lucky for me.  I am a CAD/CAM jewelry designer and 
have been so for over 10 years now.  I started with a LARS Pantomill
but have been using a Roland CAMM3 mill with SmartCamm Software for
over 5 years.  I use AutoCad for my basic drawings.  I make dies to
jewelry wholesellers for plastic injection.  These plastics are used
in the lost wax casting process.  I am so glad to find this group and
will check it every day.  If you have any questions related to  my
field - don't hesitate to ask.  If anyone out there is in this unique
field I would like to hear from you. 

Les Williams
  --------------------------------------------------------------
  [ LES WILLIAMS                  X    MOULINET LTD.           ]
  [ CAD/CAM JEWELRY               X    7300 NW EXPRESSWAY      ] 
  [ DESIGNER AND ENGINEER         X    SUITE 200               ]
  [ E-MAIL:  lesinokc@ionet.net   X    OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73132 ]
  [ HOME PAGE:   http://www.ionet.net/~lesinokc/moulinet.html  ]
  --------------------------------------------------------------
  Specializing in custom 2D/3D metal Dies/Molds to the jewelry
  industry. Custom mountings,corporate and school logos, crests.  
  --------------------------------------------------------------              


From bfairey@wat.hookup.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:25 EST 1996
Article: 44197 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: COMPLETE drill chart please!
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 15:29:36 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
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On 12 Dec 1996 13:43:07 -0800, frank@newshost.dsea.com (Frank Evan
Perdicaro) wrote:

>I get a varitety of metric and inch nuts, bolts, taps and drills.  What
>I'd like is a chart that holds both metric and inch drills and taps and
>shows the hole size for every drill in both thousandths of and inch and
>millimeters.
>
>The columns would be
>drill name;tap name;inch size of hole;mm size of hole
>
>With such a chart, I might be able to mix and match my limited supply
>of drills and taps so various metric taps could be used with inch
>drills, or the reverse.
>
>Perhaps two extra columns could be added, something like 'delta from
>previous, inches', and the same in metric.  This way, it would
>be easy to see just how far out a particular metric drill might be
>from a particular (close) inch drill.
>
>Anybody have such a chart?
>
>-- 
>Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
> Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
>  inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
>   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097

Yes from Small Parts Inc 305 557 8222
Brian, Ont, Can.


From Junkman@olywa.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:27 EST 1996
Article: 44198 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Junkman@olywa.net (D.W.Rech)
Subject: Re: Electo-Polishing of Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <cd7cc$14361f.140@MYCROFT>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 04:54:32 GMT
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All right you primitive screwheads, listen up! (codeng@power.co.za
said:)

>
>
>
>I Need to Polish  welds on small stainless steel components.
>Grinding and Buffing is not possible (If the weld is ground then too
>much material will be removed and failure will be likely)
>
>I believe that Sulfuric and Phosporic acids together with DC current
>can be used. 
>
>Can Someone please advise what proportions and reccomend a suitable
>current/voltage?
>
>John Spargo
>
>codeng@power.co.za
>
>
I used a 125 volt 10 amp variac turned down to 20-24 volts. Depending
on the pad on the end of the wand  (fiberglass, rockwool, cotton ) and
the strength of the acid ( phosphoric ) , the current was about 5
amps. You can use more voltage, but the pad will occassionally short
out. Be sure to protect both sides of the circuit with a 10 amp fuse. 
The system removed the blue in the stainless and also removed the
black carbon-like residue. It reduced our finishing time on stainless
steel sinks by about one-half.




From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:28 EST 1996
Article: 44199 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bronze Polishing & Finishing
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 12:55:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Ted:

If you WANT a nice even green patina on your table when finished you
might try a ship modelers trick. That is to was the entire surface
with a gritty cleaner (commet works fine) then rinse well. Then paint
on household amonia. THis will give you a very consistent patina. For
a more varied look the bronze can be heated (unevenly) and then apply
the ammonia. Besure to rinse the bronze VERY WELL afterward to stop
the oxidization process and dry carefully.


Steve
stz@garlic.com

On 13 Dec 1996 06:03:03 GMT, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M.
Elson) wrote:

>Ted Singleton (drum@iol.ie) wrote:
>: I wish to build a table in Bronze. I have all the necessary equipment to
>: machine the bronze such as Lathe and Milling machine. I need advise on how
>: to polish the finished items. Is Bronze left to Tarnish or is Lacquered
>: similar to Brass. I would appreciate any help.
>: Ted (drum@iol.ie)
>
>I'd macine it as smooth as possible, then lap it to a polish with wet
>sandpaper and a flat plate to drive the sandpaper.  When you get a pretty
>smooth finish, then use metal polish.  Most metal polishes have carnauba
>wax, which protects the metal from tarnishing (for a while).
>(Whoo - that's going to be one HEAVY table!)
>						Jon
>



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:29 EST 1996
Article: 44200 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: images on nicklesilver?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 04:10:06 GMT
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One point about sublimation.... the transfer occurs to the *coating* on the metal, 
not the metal itself. Any bare metal would have to be coated with polyurethane.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:31 EST 1996
Article: 44201 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machine Tool Supply Houses? Post your favorites.
Date: 14 Dec 1996 04:06:11 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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crostown@concentric.net (JD) wrote:
>In article <582otg$3vo@news.proaxis.com>,
>   Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>>My favorite is Rutland tool and supply. They have the absolute best deals on 
>milling 
>
>Rutland is OK. I've found the local small industrial suppliers to be
>much better than the big catalog places like Rutland, J&L, etc.
>They can all get the same stuff from the same warehouse at the same
>price, but the small local guys give a lot better service. And they
>deliver!

Perhaps in your town, but not here. A good example: Rutland sells 2 or 4 flute solid 
carbide stub endmills for $2.75 each, and they are good quality. We use them by the 
hundreds. I buy for our machine and fabrication shop every day, and am always 
looking for price and service. The local guys just can't buy in the volume that the 
big guys do. The service (both with Rutland and MSC) is exceptionally good. I 
usually deal with the same rep each time (they get a commission) so they get to know 
me and bend over backwards to help.

Often times in buying equipment I will use a local supplier for just the reasons you 
mentioned... but equipment, not consumables. Most equipment has a much lower markup 
than consumables.

I have found that among the catalogs, there is very little variation in the prices 
of *identical* brand name items... such as a Blake center indicator. The big boys 
all read each other's catalogs, you know... the differences will be in consumables 
and large equipment that is an unknown import brand or comes with varying levels of 
accessory equipment.

The local guys just can't stock enough or compete with the big mail order houses. It 
is sad, but true. It is why MSC is so big.

Regards, Mark



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:32 EST 1996
Article: 44202 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:22:22 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
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Jim Waggener wrote:
> 
> Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? Whats the procedure, speed,
> chucks, tooling?
> 
> Jim Waggener


What do you mean by basic lathe?  Please be a bit more specific.

Also what metal of what thickness do you want to spin.  There is a great deal of 
difference in spinning sterling silver of .4 mm thickness or 303 stainless of .8 mm 
thickness for instance.

Take a look at "The Amateurs's Lathe" by L.H. Sparey.  In it he describes spinning metal 
in a 7" lathe.  He also shows the necessary tools and holding method.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From rooster@iglou.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:33 EST 1996
Article: 44203 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rooster@iglou.com (Rooster)
Subject: Q: hole saw arbor
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--- begin undecipherable ranting ---

this ques concerns a Milwaukee 7055 "quick change" hole saw arbor.  It is
a large arbor with drive pins that engage drive holes in the back of the
saw.  

this is confusing to explain, but if you screw the saw all the way down to
the flange, the drive pins don't line up.  If you loosten the saw 1/4-1/3
turn, the pins line up, but now the saw is a bit loose.

is there a way to have the saw tight against the flange AND engage the
drive pins?

many will testify that i have been whacked in the head a few times too
many, but i just don't see how you get this thing to work.  all that money
i paid for college, you'd think they would have taught me this.

--- rant off ---

thanks in advance for any help.

rooster



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:21:34 EST 1996
Article: 44204 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Very basic question from a newbie
Date: 14 Dec 1996 05:31:14 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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Jens (psh@islandnet.com) wrote:
: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

: > An old finger brake, 16 ga. 
: >went for $2300. Everybody's busy & has money to burn.

: That is obscene !!! You can buy a 4 ft 16 ga breake for that price NEW
: !!! (And that is in CANADIAN dollars too)

This spring I got a Chicago 3' finger brake in good condition (with stand)
for $350.  (That's US dollars).  Certainly the smaller brakes are not
as highly desired, but that $2300 must have been at an auction.
					Jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:21:35 EST 1996
Article: 44205 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Questions
Date: 14 Dec 1996 05:14:39 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
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gds@ix.netcom.com wrote:
: I have recently purchased the 2hp mill/drill from Enco.  Is seems to
: be a pretty good machine for learning.  I have a few questions that
: continue to perplex me.

: -  What is a good procedure for centering an 8" rotary table?

If you have a dial indicator, or better yet a dial test indicator,
and the outside diameter of the table top is true (some cheapies aren't)
then you put the indicator holder in the spindle and sweep it around
the table top, adjusting X-Y table position until the indicator doesn't
change reading as it sweeps around the rotary table top.  If the OD
of your rotary table is NOT true, you might want to use a grinding wheel
in the mill spindle to cut a lip about .100 wide that is true to the
center.  You would do this by rotating the rotary table and advancing
the wheel into the table until it makes a continuous ground surface all
the way around the circumference.  (You don't want to grind the whole side
of the table because it would take off the degree markings.)

: - How crucial is leveling the machine?  I have it on Enco's mill drill
: stand which I am certain must be unlevel.

Some people say the machine will never be accurate unless it is perfectly
level.  On a machine like this, it is not likely to make much difference.
But, if your table is level, then you can level any odd part in a vise,
and know IT is now parallel to the table. When clamping odd parts, like
shafts, in a vise, a level can get it true when parallels, calipers and
other things may not fit for some reason.

: Thanks for the help and any other comments on this machine would 
: be helpful.

Hmm, you'd better check the leadscrews.  Some of their import machines
have metric screws with obscure markings like .002"/div .05mm/div
Well, .002" is not equal to .05mm!  On the small scale, you'd never
notice, but on the large scale, over a few inches, the error really
creeps up.



From todengine@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:36 EST 1996
Article: 44206 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: todengine@aol.com (Tod Engine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
Date: 14 Dec 1996 05:57:15 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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> 
> I'm looking for a newsgroup which deals exclusively with steam engines.
> My on line server says there aren't any but I find that hard to belive.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Bob

I don't know about newsgroups but there are a few mailing lists that deal
with steam engines.

stationary-engine, livesteamers, and fun-steam are three that I subscribe
to.  I have subscription info. if you are interested.

Rick Rowlands


From Joshua_Putnam@WolfeNET.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:37 EST 1996
Article: 44207 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: josh@WOLFENET.COM (Joshua_Putnam)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bicycle chain?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 04:02:34 GMT
Organization: Wolfe Internet Access, L.L.C.
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In <19961213233901.SAA28838@ladder01.news.aol.com> davenugent@aol.com (DaveNugent) writes:

>Hello all,
>     I've got a trivia question: what is bicycle chain?  Specifically, is
>it ANSI 25 ,or 35 ,or is it something else?  Where can I find non-bike
>sprockets that will fit bike chain?

What type of bike chain are you using?

Modern derailleur chains are a pretty specialized animal, much
narrower than typical industrial chains, and have no bushings
in their rollers.  All modern bicycle chain is 1/2" pitch, but
derailleur chain is nominally 3/32" width, and often less than
that in practice.  

Non-derailleur chain, used on track bicycles, one speeds, and
internally-geared hubs (3 speeds, etc.) is 1/2"x1/8"

--

 Josh@WolfeNet.com  is  Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
                       "My other bike is a car."                   
                     http://www.wolfenet.com/~josh


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:38 EST 1996
Article: 44208 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: 13 Dec 1996 13:32:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <19961212200700.PAA12715@ladder01.news.aol.com> pnpnolan@aol.com
writes: 
(Mark)
>writes:
>
>>20 Gal. tank
>>2hp
>>11.7 cfm
>>delivery 9cfm at 90psi
>>220v
>>25ft. hose
>>
>>
>
>All from only two horses? wow!
>
>Peter
>Still using 6.5 Sears HP to get 9 at 90.

    Through the miracle of advertising...<g>...modern  compressors are
rated at stall current instead of running current. That Sears 6.5 HP
motor won't actually generate that many horsepower - but it WILL draw
the amperage that would give that much horsepower....right before it
burns up.
                                Roger L.


From Bob Tue Dec 17 14:21:39 EST 1996
Article: 44209 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Machinist squares-who sells good but cheap?.
Date: 8 Dec 1996 06:56:54 GMT
Organization: WhidbeyNet 
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In article <19961207222500.RAA24716@ladder01.news.aol.com>, 
gunner312@aol.com says...
>
>Good and Cheap are Oxmorons.  The two are not able to be used in a
>rational manner.  

You can make good squares out of cheap for a couple of bux and about 
15-20 minutes per square.  Detailed info in Lautard's "Machinist's
Bedside Reader", simplified as below:

1. Break all edges with 600 grit carborundum paper backed by a block.
2. Pick any three squares from the set and label them A, B, & C (or 1, 2, 
& 3, etc.)
3. Compare A with B, and using 600 or 1200 carbo paper, adjust B's blade
to match A.
4. Compare A with C, and adjust C.
5. Compare B with C. The error is double the error in A.
6. Correct A, and repeat 3, 4, & 5 until all 3 squares agree.
7. Correct the inside edges using any of the squares you have just 
finished.
You now have squares that are as accurate as any made by Starrett, B&S, 
or anyone else, although the feel may not be to Starrett standards.

Bob ;{)



From majazzg@dave-world.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:41 EST 1996
Article: 44211 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <32AA7CE0.7C10@dave-world.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 02:31:28 -0600
From: mark cleary <majazzg@dave-world.net>
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Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
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Tim Robinson wrote:
> 
> In article <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>,
>    zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:
> >If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> >then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> >your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> >your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> >you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
> 
> You don't save people by irritating the Hell out of them.
> 
> | Tim Robinson                   | Lonely Web page.  Please visit.   |
> | timtroyr@ionet.net             | http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr    |
> | "The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by |
> | men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding."  L. Brandeis |
> 
> Sorry about the bogus e-mail address.  I get too much e-mail spam.
> Just use the one in the sig.  Brewers, check out
> http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr/beer
I went to Mass tonight does that count. I had a beer too when I got
home. The priest always test my homebrew I really value his opinion.
Mark


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:42 EST 1996
Article: 44212 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 01:58:44 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
 Macs would have been more successful if more people paid more money
> just so Apple could stay in business.

Peter,

I think, just maybe, if you look, real hard, you'll find that Apple was
successful enough and made lots of money. Apple had the elite machine
for many years, they lead the way in personal computers and now the lack
of a patent is finally paying off in the long run for IBM and clones.
This is economics and each company will play it's role which just leaves
us with the aftermath. But I think we can all appreciate the fact that
we are online with many different computers and learning much.

Brian Perry

owner of two Mac's


From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:43 EST 1996
Article: 44213 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:04:25 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
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Bryan. Not only is the Sherline made in the USA, it's made in San
Diego County.  Head a little North to San Marcos, and visit the
Factory.  Tell Joe Martin about what you were told, and take a look at
one of the finest machines around. He'll be glad to show you, too! 
OTOH, if you aren't up to the travel from UCSD, then visit the
Sherline Web Site at
http://www.electriciti.com/~sherline/
I think you'll buy the Sherline!
>"It's much better than that Sherline lathe because it's made in Austria."
>
>Now, to me, being still somewhat proud of American and lots of American 
>workmanship, not to mention never having heard a bad thing about Sherline,
>this statement bothered me.  In my head it translated to:
>
>"Let's face it, American equipment sucks, no matter how many good stories
>you've heard about it.  You're better off paying three times as much for
>an imported model."
>Is my 
>general pride and trust in USA-made stuff just a naive mistake?
>
>								Bryan
>
>
>---
>Bryan Kolodziej                 University of California, San Diego
>Visual Arts/Computer Media      http://sgva-serv1.ucsd.edu/~bkolodzi

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:44 EST 1996
Article: 44214 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Tapers with compound ?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <32A92040.434F@mail.fgi.net>
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Date: 7 Dec 96 18:22:24 GMT
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Cutting tapers with the compound feed is a routine technique for lathe
work.  First set the compound angle to the desired angle for the finished
work.  Then set the compound screw feed to be sure that you will have
enough travel to make the full length cut on the workpiece.  I then
position the carriage and lock it in place; most lathes feature a lock
screw to hold the carriage firmly in place.  This is important, because any
movement if the carriage will give poor surface finish results or errors in
the taper.  All cutting is done by manual feed of the compound screw. 
Depth of cut is set by infeed of the cross feed on the carriage.  Cutting a
very steep taper will take some amount of time because all cutting is done
manually.  Try it out and have fun cutting.
-- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com

 

Walt Black <wblack@mail.fgi.net> wrote in article
<32A92040.434F@mail.fgi.net>...
> I need some help to understand cutting short tapers using the compound. 
> Do you bring the carriage back to a stop, then advance the compound into
> the work at the proper angle then cut with the carriage advance,
> repeating until the taper is cut?  Obviously you cnat just feed the
> compound into the work as it will be making much to deep a cut.  I have
> the South Bend Book on using a lathe and it doesn't explain this very
> well. As a new amateur machinist I would appreciate a somewhat detailed
> explanation please.
> 
> Walt Black
> wblack@fgi.net
> 
> 
> 


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:45 EST 1996
Article: 44215 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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These were very popular in the 1950's before the mill-drills started
showing up on the market.  I can recall nearly every issue of Popular
Mechanics and Popular Science having advertisements for them.. I don't know
where they all went, because they rarely show up on the market now.  The
last one I saw for sale at a car show was $450, and was nice and clean. 
You didn't say what this one was priced at, but if in real nice condition,
it could be worth up to $600
-- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com

plalbrecht@aol.com wrote in article
<19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
> locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.
> 
> Pete
> 


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:47 EST 1996
Article: 44216 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 22:00:44 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
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OK guys lets get this straight some people actualy think that MIG is
weaker than stick.
You have got to be kidding. The only reason this would apply is if someone
knew nothing about MIG welding.
Amp for amp MIG is hotter and cleaner than any stick weld.
I can lay down a single pass weld on 1/2 inch plate that is scorching hot
, and when I'm done I can see the whole weld without chipping off the
slag.
The only realm where stick wins over MIG is outdoors , such as High steel,
but if you run Dual shield or flux core wire in a MIG then it is a toss
up.
Skill for skill it doesn't matter what process you use . I can lat down a
better weld with oxy-acet than some people could do with a MIG or Stick.
Stick welding is cheap and versatile, but not stronger than MIG.

I think the main problem is that with many forms of stick welding stringer
welds are preferred, but with MIG a woven  weld is almost always better.
If you lay down stringer welds with a MIG, you have to really crank the
machine up to cover the area with enough heat to prevent cold shuts.

Okay I've ranted enough.
let the flames begin

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:48 EST 1996
Article: 44217 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 02:02:52 -0500
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> >
> 
> Don't know about ribbed ones but Starret have some nice ones. Aint cheap
> tho'


Peter,

Me again, have you used these for scraping? I have the book, Machine
Tool Reconditioning and they only show straight edges with heavy ribbing
to avoid warp.

Brian Perry wishing to so some scraping


From diallist@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:49 EST 1996
Article: 44218 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: diallist@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Engraving brass sundials
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 05:31:22 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Hi all,

I've just discovered this newsgroup tonight.  It seems to be
full of nice, knowledgeable people.  It also seems to have a
good "signal to noise" ratio (good info vs. spam).

This is the first time I've ever tried posting to a
newsgroup so I hope this works.

My interest is sundials.  Of late, I have been wanting to
make a brass sundial and engrave it by hand.  Unfortunately,
I haven't had much success in finding out about the
different kinds of brass or which types of brass are most
suitable for hand engraving.  I'm also hoping someone in
this newsgroup can provide me with a source of books,
cassettes or videos that teach engraving.  Also, a supplier
of hand engraving tools would be nice to hear about as well.

Thanks for taking time to read this and thanks especially
for any and all replys I may receive.

Charles




From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:50 EST 1996
Article: 44219 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 02:16:56 -0500
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Neil Poersch wrote:
> > >
> Pardon my ignorance but what is JB Weld? Is it some sort of epoxy compound?
> 
> Neil


Neil,

Exactly!!

Brian Perry (Metal filled)


From mitchell@cwo.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:52 EST 1996
Article: 44220 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mitchell@cwo.com (Mitch the WoodMitch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Atlas 7" Shaper - Northern California
Date: 14 Dec 1996 06:00:58 GMT
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For Sale: Atlas 7 inch Shaper in Northern California

Good condition, on well-made shop built welded steel stand.

No vice.  $450 plus shipping 

E-mail if interested in further information.

Dave Mitchell



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:21:53 EST 1996
Article: 44221 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:06:04 GMT
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Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>I would like some opinions regarding the Econotig and the 250.  What I
>have in mind is mostly sheet metal up to about 14 guage and on rare
>occasions a repair where something just "broke off".  One example I can
>give is welding new balls on the spindle arms of my Model A.  This is
>about a 5/8 ball welded onto a 7/16 perch.  I have already paid to have
>this done, but that is an example.  I guess what I am asking is if the
>250 is worth the extra $1500 by the time you buy everything that comes
>with the econotig.  If the capacity is large enough, I can wait on the
>duty cycle.  Also, I might weld some AL or SS.  I have never used a TIG,
>but many of my dreams require one.

>Thanks

>Brian



I have a Lincoln Square-Wave 175 which I am happy with.  What capacity
is the "Econotig"?  I would have liked the 350 amp model, but I don't
have a big enough power panel and I didn't have that kind of money
(paid $1400US for the 175).  Sheet metal will be very easy to weld,
and with proper prep larger items like the spindle-arm balls would be
possible with the 175.

Working with the TIG is a lot like gas welding, but with much finer
control.  My gas welds were functional, but rarely pretty.  My TIG
welds are full penetration and nice looking.  Aluminum welds nicely,
but it is a slightly different critter than welding steel.  I got good
aluminum welds after a couple hours of practice, a great welds in
steel the first try.  Haven't tried SS but I'm told it welds just like
regular steel.  (When welding some 5/16" thick aluminum pipe I got
75-100% penetration at full power, but I tripped the 60A subpanel feed
a few times and put the welder in overheat a couple of times as well,
but the unit is not rated for 100% duty cycle at 175 amps.)

My opinion: if the econotig is 175 amps or more, go for it, otherwise
you may want the 250 if you plan to do heavy work often.

-Reckless



From tmnelson@micron.net Tue Dec 17 14:21:54 EST 1996
Article: 44222 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Terry Nelson <tmnelson@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:28:54 -0700
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Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev) wrote:
> 
> >       But, J & L Industrial
> >       Supply has a December sale going with several nice items.
> >       They have a Chinese 8" Master Precision Level, One division =
> >       .0005" / 10", which is more sensitive than the Soviet one I've got.
> >       Has a hand scraped base, with vee for placing on round surfaces,
> >       cross vial, wooden case, $79.95, order # IPL-22008H.
> >
> >Mine arrived yesterday. It's not Chinese, but Polish. It's lovely. The
> >wooden case could fit more tightly, but other than that I have nothing
> >to complain about - especially at this price! I'd rate it 95% as nice as
> >the Starret...
> 
> You are going to have some fun with that level.  I've spent
> several hours moving things on my machines to see what
> happens.  You will see it move, maybe even off scale when
> you lean your body weight on the corner of a wooden bench.

I have the 12 inch Polish Level. Here's a quick product review for anyone
interested.  Costs about $110 from Travers.  Solid cast frame, ground 
bottom with vee.  The bottom of the 12 incher has a raised portion in the
middle about 4 inches long.  It you need to level across a small area you
have to lay something flat across it to set the level on. See picture.

     *****************************
    *                             *
   *           **********          *
  ************           ************

The bottom surface has a flaked finish in the vee and on the bottom two edges.
The flaking pattern repeats at roughly .1 to .15 inches.  It's slightly deeper
than it needs to be. If you lay it across lathe vee ways with a .1 inch flat on 
top you can get slight shifts due to the flaking.  A straight ground surface 
would probably be better, but of course it doesn't look as cute.

There is enough metal on this I haven't been able to notice any changes due to
localized heating. It has a plastic handle area for those concerned about heat 
>from  handling.

Mine is stamped with 0.0005 inches/ten inches for the graduation. I think it's a
tad bit more sensitive, around 0.000333,  This is based on some feeler gauge height
shifts.  The measurements were done on my lathe bed which is a little awkward to 
measure this kind of stuff on.  Some day I'll try it on a level surface plate.

Mine was off about 1.5 marks from being level. Of course this is ajustable once
you get past the red goo locking the adjustment screw. (Acetone worked for me).

The leveling mechanism for these is really cute. I'll try to explain it. The 
adjusting screw has two threaded sections. The top section is larger than the
bottom section, and threads into the holder for the  sightglass. The lower smaller
diameter portion threads into the base of the level. The sightglass is mounted 
on a pivot on the other end.  The two threaded sections have different pitches
so that a full turn of the screw changes the height on the adjusting end of the
sightglass the DIFFERENCE of the screw pitches. There is also a spring pushing
upward on the adjusting end to remove the clearance for the threads.

All in all I'm quite pleased with this level.  It's really and education to level
up a machine.  These large seemingly hard chunks of iron flex all over the place.
it's really quite amazing. After having a level I cringe at all the method people 
use to try and level things up without one.  Rest assured, if you have a lathe,
and haven't used a precision level to set it up, you ways ARE twisted.  At least
in my heavily biased opinion. :):):)

Hope this helps anyone thinking about one.

Terry


From cstep@composit.ultranet.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:55 EST 1996
Article: 44223 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cstep@composit.ultranet.com (Chris Stepanian)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:25:38 GMT
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Hello;

I am interested in buying a TIG welder for use in welding some 
thin aluminum and steel tubing, specifically for bike frames.  
I've used TIG equipment before and am familiar with the
techniques; my specific question is whether it is possible
to run a small TIG machine like the Miller EconoTIG from
my household dryer plug (220V, 50 A).  The metals are 
not thick; steel about .030 or so and the aluminum maxing
out at .25 in. for some of the pieces and .060 for most of them.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Success/
failure stories? Any help is appreciated.

If replying by mail please respond to emack@tiac.net 
(I'm borrowing my roomate's newsreader.)  

Thanks,

Eliot




From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:21:57 EST 1996
Article: 44224 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Propane
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In a previous article, son.of.RA@worldnet.att.net ("Robert") says:

>What kind of regulator do I need to do cutting with propane in stead of
>acetlene?
>
>

An acetylene regulator works fine.  You will need an adapter for the tank.
I have been using this sort of rig for 20 years.
-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:21:59 EST 1996
Article: 44225 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:50 GMT
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In article <oQPTSAA8tGsyEwUt@iw63.demon.co.uk>, "Ian W. Wright"
<Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk> writes:

>I use 'Superglue' (cyanoacrylate) extemsively for holding things to
>machine them. Admittedly I'm only working on watches and small clocks
>but I don't see any reason why the same stuff won't work on larger
>sizes. The only thing is that you need to be able to heat the work up a
>bit to get the glue to release - probably to about 200 deg. F or so. If
>you are going to try this, make sure you have degreased your mounting
>surface well first with Acetone or the glue will not stick. The Acetone
>also seems to act like a kind of accelerator on the glue. You may find
>it easier to stick a scrap metal plate onto your work and then clamp
>this plate onto the machine. Working with watch size pieces I often have
>to glue the bit I'm making onto a bigger piece of metal to use as a
>handle so I can actually manipulate it. I almost always use superglue
>nowadays.
>
>

  Just a thought but you might try some locktite. I used some of the high
strength cylindrical locktite to put in a key the other day. Then I had to
get the key back out. I couldn't budge it until I heated it.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:00 EST 1996
Article: 44226 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:46 GMT
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In article <58pg9s$nud@server.eng.dsea.com>, Frank Perdicaro
<frank@dsea.com> writes:

>
>6013 works great on DC.  In fact, this is the preferred method
>for welding sheet metal with 6013.  Only once have I used 6013
>on AC.
>
>

  With every body giving rave reviews of 6013 I thought that I might add
my opinion. While I agree that 6013 will give you some of the best looking
welds possible with a stick welder. I've been welding going on 20 years
with a very old 240 amp Marquett "cracker box" as they used to be called
or AC welder as people now refer to them. I started very young and
basically taught myself how to weld. Though I've been through at least a
couple of courses on welding during this time though I wouldn't call them
anything extensive. The first was in VoAg in high school and while the
instructor used to be a pipeline welder he never really got around to
really teaching very much besides the book part. The other was while in
the Air Force and it was just to allow me to use the stuff when I needed
it. It didn't teach much except the safety issues. While I now weld a lot
with 7018, 7024, and 6013 on a DC welder at work I still prefer the old
cracker box at home with 6011. I read somewhere and agree with it that an
AC welder will get better penetration than a DC welder. That is expecially
true if you use 6011 rod. It tends to burn deeper than most of the other
rods. Its also more forgiving of dirty metal than the others since it will
burn right through paint and rust. I personally find it a lot easier to
use out of position than any other rod that I have tried so far. While its
darn near impossible to get as pretty a weld with it. I generally feel
better about the strength of the weld produced by it when compared to
6013. At least when doing mild steel. You just about have to use 7018 for
alloy steels. Though I have had pretty good results welding some alloys
with 6011 if I will just preheat it and then anneal the weld afterwords.
While I know a lot of people who just plain hate AC welders and say that
they aren't very good. I really prefer one. My old Marquett is kind of
hard to learn how to use. It just has the a circle of plugs for the
elecrode lead to adjust the amps and they are fairly course at that. Its
also seems to be harder to start the arc with though with my years of
experience with it I don't have trouble anymore I've know experienced
welders to have trouble with it. You also have to be able to live with
what ever heat your'e getting. There is several tricks that can be used to
do this but I won't go into detail about them here. Really not to sure
which is easier to learn to use AC or DC. They each have there own
different set of difficulties to deal with. AC can be harder to maintain a
good arc with but I've had sometrouble with DC in the past with the arc
bending to one side do to the magnetic field generated by it. Ok I still
have trouble with this though not as much. I havn't used DC very much
except in the past 3 years. 

  The main thing that I wanted to state here was to not discount 6011 to
much. While its not a rod for making pretty welds. To me its easier to
use. This is mainly because of the amount of flux that the other rods
produce. I have had trouble at times with the flux getting in the way of
the weld. Though this is primarily when welding in tight corners or deep
in grooves. I also have a lot more trouble keeping the weld from running
when welding out of position with other rods. This is probably because
I've run about 20 times more 6011 than any other rod. But it is a very
versitile rod expecially if you're like me and use every piece of scrap
that you can lay you're hands on. It really doesn't matter to 6011 if the
piece is rusty or that its got 5 layers of paint. Just stand up wind and
burn right through. Though I would be careful not to breath to much of the
burning paint fumes. This is not to much of a problem for me as I weld
outside and live in the windiest part of the USA. 

  Whew this has gotten longer than I intended. I just get kind of
passionate trying to defend my favorite rod.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:01 EST 1996
Article: 44227 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 55
Message-ID: <19961214074900.CAA14279@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32b09aff.126090114@news.islandnet.com>
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In article <32b09aff.126090114@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) writes:

>
>>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.
>
>I agree ... I can make real pretty stuff but won't touch a structural
>job that could result in major (property or persanal) damage such as a
>trailer. Most welds I lay down are fine but there is always the one
>cold/low penetration joint that sneaks in. It's just not worth the
>risk.
>
>

  I agree as well. When I went to work at the shop I work at now we had a
very good 400amp mig welder. Everybody was scared of it. I turns out that
they had built a big motor base. Were talking somthing on the line of 4
feet by 6 feet made out of good size I-beam. When the company got it they
found it wasn't the right size though it had been built to the specs that
had been given. When they took it to be changed the guy that fixed it had
to grind some of the welds away. What they found was that while the weld
looked good it had not really stuck everywhere. There would be a section
that was stuck good followed by a section that wasn't stuck at all. Scary
thought. I have since seen a lot of factory mig welds on stuff like
bearing hubs and the like that have torn loose. You can look at the piece
and see that it didn't stick. It just pulled out of the weld. No tearing
like you get when a weld fails but it looks just like it would if the hub
was just a press fit in the weld. I think that mig is really good for thin
stuff mut I would be really careful of trusting it on a heavy cross
section. Its just to easy to just hold the arc in the middle of the weld
and let it build up like you was doing caulking. That generally won't
allow a heavy piece of steel get hot enough to melt into the weld. If you
do use it to weld heavy sections be sure to weave the arc so that you get
next to the piece of metal a melt it on each side as you go. While I'm not
a expert at this I believe that the biggest reason that the welds fail is
that people pretend that the mig gun is just a caulking gun and not a
welder. I believe that the definition of welding is the joining of piece
by melting the to togather with or without a filler. If you don't get a
melting of the metal you're not welding. And it can be hard to melt a
heavy piece of steel with a little bitty wire.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:02 EST 1996
Article: 44228 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:48 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <19961214074900.CAA14284@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32b0c66c.1759530@netnews.worldnet.att.net>
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In article <32b0c66c.1759530@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) writes:

>
>One thing worth adding here is that the burning of propane releases a
>lot of water vapor.  I learned that from a previous poster (see, I can
>be taught).  
>
>So either do it where there is plenty of ventilation or be prepared to
>scrape rust off the ways.
>
>

  I don't know where I saw it but I seem to remember that a lot of water
vapor is released by burning acetylene as well. In fact I think that
burning just about any hydrocarbon will create water vapor.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:03 EST 1996
Article: 44229 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <19961214074900.CAA14293@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <19961213164000.LAA16585@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961213164000.LAA16585@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>In article <32b0b4db.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:
>
>>The warning at work indicated it is a carrier for the Trojan
>>Horse Virus and will almost certainly destroy all your data,
>>and will also try to propigate itself from your PC to all
>>the others for which it finds addresses on your hard disk.
>>
>>T
>
>I can't see how mail text can become active as a virus Fitch. Not saying
>it is not possible but having spent the odd few years with a compiler
>(circa 1974) I can't see how it could replicate itself from text.
>
>Text is benign, it can't go anywhere unless it becomes a program. Perhaps
>if the text is UUENCODEd there could be an imbedded section that
generates
>the program, you would still need to run that program for it to *do*
>anything.
>
>Anyone who runs a new program without *first* checking it for viruses
>deserves whatever they get.
>
>Just reading the text could not cause any harm that I can see. It's a
good
>warning though, reminding us that viruses still abound out there and not
>to run anything without first scanning it.
>
>

  I have seen warnings like this on other newsgroups. I have also seen
postings from people that I tend to believe that they are hoaxes. There
was also supposed to be one called Good Times. I personally don't see how
a virus could be done like this. To me you would have to have some kind of
run command done to the code for it to ever do anything. And as far as I
know there is no way to do a run command on a text file. Now if you have a
program attached to the e-mail and you was to go to it and run it without
checking it then you might have a problem. But only if you run it. I know
that run is a rather archaic usage here but you should get the idea.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:04 EST 1996
Article: 44230 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shoptask Multipurpose Machine
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 34
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In article <58q22r$76q@taurus.bv.sgi.net>, borris@sgi.net writes:

>
>Need information regarding the Shoptask Lathe,Mill,Drill machine. I.E.
>What is the quality of the machine? How does it compare with the
>SMITHY multipurpose machine? What hobbies/business are you performing
>with this machine? Appreciate your help.
>
>

  I havn't had a first hand look at a Smithy so I can't compare the
quality between them. I would call the quality of the Shop Task fair. The
ways seem to be accurite. The dials and lead screws also seem to pretty
close ie I don't have much problems getting within .001 or so accuracy out
of the lathe part. However I think that the milling head is a joke.
There's to many places for flex and with no way of dropping the head down
closer to the table I can't figure out any way of gettin rid of  some of
it. Personally if I was to do it again and I really wanted a combo machine
I would take a real good look at the big Smithy 1239 (I think thats the
number). It seems to solve about 80% of my complaints with the Shop Task.
If you've got the space you would probably be better off with dedicated
machines. They work a lot better than these combo units and if you can
find some decent used one they end up costing about the same.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:06 EST 1996
Article: 44231 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shoptask 17-20 XMTC mill/lathe
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <19961214074900.CAA14294@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32B1D7D8.15A2@motionex.com>
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In article <32B1D7D8.15A2@motionex.com>, Mark Shaw <marks@motionex.com>
writes:

>I would like to hear some feedback from anyone that owns or has used the
>Shoptask 17-20 XMTC.  It looks 
>like a very well designed machine and its standard motor mounts make it a
>great candidate for CNC 
>conversion.  It just doesn't seem like there has been much press on
Shoptask
>on the Web or otherwise.
>
>

  As far as I can tell I'm the only one in this group that has one. I have
found a few drawbacks to the machine and as far as the CNC goes they do
offer a package but I would rather leary as to how well it would work. My
machine had about .030" slack in the lead screw nuts even after I got rid
of all the other excess slack. The machine makes a pretty fair lathe as
long as you don't try to turn anything over about 8". Any larger than this
and I  run into a lot of chatter problems. I've just about given up trying
to use the mill head. Its nearly always to high and when I make up the
difference one way or the other I end up with to much flex to do any but
extremely light milling. Personally I don't really recommend it. There's
just to many basic features missing. If I was to buy another combo unit I
would look real close at the Smithy 1239. Its there bigger model and it
costs more but it seems to fix most of what I've found lacking in my Shop
Task. 

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:22:07 EST 1996
Article: 44232 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MSC Novatool Lathes
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:34:26 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <58tls6$8ig@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <58pi4f$hdd@lm1.oryx.com>
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

xcprhb@oryx.com (Reg H. Beardsley) wrote:

>Anyone have experience w/ either the 12x40 or 13x40 Novatool lathes
>sold by MSC?

>Comments about Chinese junk to /dev/null please.

>thanks,


/dev/null is a great device (I use it all the time, especially when my
boss is ranting), but what do Mac zealots use? <BG>

-Reckless



From eric@iptcorp.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:08 EST 1996
Article: 44233 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!hecate.umd.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!news4.noc.netcom.net!noc.netcom.net!iptcorp.com!eric
From: eric@iptcorp.com (Eric Wilner)
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Message-ID: <E2D9F6.By1@iptcorp.com>
Organization: IPT Corporation
References: <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:13:53 GMT
Lines: 13

jim@hre.com (Jim Harvey) writes:
: I have a small quantity of Spaceship grade aluminum scrap for sale. 
: Email me for prices.
: 
: Jim"Spaceranger" Harvey
: wayout@hre.com
: http://hre.com

Gosh, the aluminum parts of *our* spaceship are all boring ol' 6061.

We're looking for a good source of spaceship-grade carbon fiber, though.

Eric "Hardware Hacker" Wilner


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:09 EST 1996
Article: 44234 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.rain.net!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:15:45 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
Lines: 6
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Absolutely yes. A dryer oulet has more than enough power to do bike frames with tig. 
I have been on a 50 amp circuit for years. Even a 30 amp 220 would be enough for 
bike frames.  With aluminum over 1/4" you may start to have problems.

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:10 EST 1996
Article: 44235 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe thread standards?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:26:45 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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There is a British pipe thread that is very close, but not the same... BSP (British 
Standard Pipe?)

Regards, Mark



From bsimon1234@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:11 EST 1996
Article: 44236 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bsimon1234@aol.com (BSimon1234)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: COMPLETE drill chart please!
Date: 14 Dec 1996 08:22:06 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 5
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you should be able to get such a chart as you want from a dealer in
machine tools. 

I have a 3 foot by 4 foot chart on my wall that shows the size of all
drills, taps, etc. - Apparently they are pretty common.


From gjRossow@msn.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:12 EST 1996
Article: 44237 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: gjRossow@msn.com (minette  )
Subject: RE: WOW!!  NICE NEWGROUP - I'M A CAD/CAM JEWELRY DESIGNER
Date: 14 Dec 96 07:36:45 -0800
References: <32b0e8f6.22953984@news.ionet.net>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+00004389@msn.com>
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Hi Les,
	I'm a Fine Arts major concentrating in metalsmithng.I've been doing 
mostly jewelry and small metal objects (utensils,etc.). Lately, I've 
been doing lost wax casting and loving it. Would love to hear more 
about what you do. I've worked with CAD also, and can't imagine doing 
jewelry on it. I found this group several months ago and can't say 
enough good stuff 'em. I will look forward to seeing you around! 
Should you be inclined, my E-mail is:  gjrossow@msn.com.

Bye
Minette


From aeberle@iwaynet.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:13 EST 1996
Article: 44238 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.netset.com!ragnarok.oar.net!malgudi.oar.net!triglav.iwaynet.net!usenet
From: Art or Betty Eberle <aeberle@iwaynet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Acme thread taps
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 20:50:39 -0500
Organization: 
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Suggest you consider casting in babbit the nut you need directly around
your leadscrew.  Coat the leadscrew with carbon from a candle to keep
it  from sticking to the babbit.  Or you may use graphite.  

Have not done this myself but heard about it from an old machinist.  

Good luck.


From bsimon1234@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:14 EST 1996
Article: 44239 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bsimon1234@aol.com (BSimon1234)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: 14 Dec 1996 08:38:42 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
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I would like to know if anyone else has tried out the model 500 or 750
Drill Doctor sharpened by Darex.

Anything good or bad to say?


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:15 EST 1996
Article: 44240 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 14 Dec 1996 07:49:39 GMT
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In article <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Ok.  How fast should one run the bimetal blades anyway?  I
>run my saw dry to reduce the mess of coolent dripping off
>the ends of the metal all over the garage floor or driveway.
>
>I thought I was making the blades last longer by running it
>slow.  it is that using the bimetal blades I should be
>running it on possibly its highest speed?  I lose Starrett
>bimetal blades at the rate of one every couple owf weeks
>when diong heavy cutting - they end up with no teeth on them
>at all, look  just like the strapping used for shipping
>things.  (At that point, being totally frivolous with my
>money, I throw the danged useless bimetal thing away and
>don't bother to file new teeth on it in a burst  of
>misguided thrift <G>).
>
>I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
>also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
>
>

  That doesn't sound right. We don't use the bimetal blades at the shop
due to there expense. We use a very old Wells band saw that doesn't have
provisions for coolant so we run it dry. It has three speeds but all of
them are fairly slow. I don't know exactly how many feet per minute it
runs but we use the slow speed on stainless and the medium speed for most
cutting. The high speed is just used on brass or aluminum and somtimes
cast iron. We can get as much as two months or more out of a blade if we
aren't using it very heavy. But even if we run it all day for two or three
days in a row the blade will get to be fairly slow cutting but it never
gets that smooth. The main thing that will cause us to change a blade is
if it gets all the set rubbed off one side and thus cuts at a bad angle.
The only other reason we will change is if we have to cut a lot of stuff
and want it to cut as fast as it can. I don't know what could be causing
the teeth to be ripped off like that unless there is to much pressure on
the blade. We really don't have that much pressure on our blades so it can
take a fair little while to cut through somthing very thick. I would guess
that it generally take about 30 min to cut a piece of 4 or 5 inch
shafting. It of course depends a lot on just how sharp the blade is but
that would be a good average. I believe that I spent about an hour cutting
through a piece of cast iron the other day that was about 8" in dia. And
that was with a fairly new blade. I have seen a blade that wouldn't even
start to cut nylatron or even brass that would cut through 4140 fairly
well. One thing that is suprising is that a dull blade will cut a good
fairly hard steel like 4140 faster than it will cut cold rolled. By the
same token it takes a really sharp blade to cut nylatron. You can cut
brass with a blade that won't even touch that stuff. It sounds to me that
you should be getting more life out of you're blades based on my
experience. Just don't ask me what the difference is.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:17 EST 1996
Article: 44241 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cold Welding Cast Iron
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:07:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In
<Pine.SOL.3.91.961214145125.16133A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca>
Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca> writes: 
>
>I'm not sure this is the process that was in question a few weeks
back, 
>but it sounds like it to me. I was skimming a new Lindsay Press book
when 
>I ran across "Cold Soldering".  It works for "dirty cast iron" even.  
>here's the Reader's Digest version. see p. 250, or e-mail me)
>
>A Flux of 1 part metallic Sodium to 50-60 parts mercury, which must be

>stored in an air-tight container.  (shake to mix)

    I can't wait to hear how this works - from someone else! Good God
Tom ! Metallic sodium? Mercury? And later on in the post it talks about
adding hot water? Please, if anyone tries this be careful! - 
                                                            Roger L.


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:18 EST 1996
Article: 44242 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:42:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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  What I was saying is that it is easy to get a good looking but worthless
weld with mig. If done properly mig is great. If not done properly it can
be bad and you can't tell by looking at it. I firmly agree with you about
the weaving. I think that what can get you in big trouble is to just act
like you're caulking. You might get by with that on thin stuff but never
on heavy stuff unless you've got one big welder.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu Tue Dec 17 14:22:19 EST 1996
Article: 44243 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu (Theodore Henry Phares)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pipe thread standards?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 02:25:03 -0800
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Department of Mechanical Engineering
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Hi,

I have a vacuum cup with a 1/8" dia. nipple coming out of it. 
Unfortunately, the nipple is not threaded NPT, and I can't figure out what
it is.  It's close to 1/8" NPT, but not quite.  Could it be NPS?  Or is
there another pipe thread standard w/o a taper?  Is NPS usually used on
pneumatic/vacuum stuff like this?  To confuse the situation, I have some
coiled air line that has NPT fittings.  

So, I have to ask:

When and where is NPT used?  When is NPS used?

Are there common U.S. pipe thread standards in addition to NPT and NPS? 
How about metric?

Can anyone suggest any references?


Thanks in advance.

-- 
ted phares
 human engineering laboratory
  department of mechanical engineering
   university of california at berkeley
    me.berkeley.edu/hel


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:20 EST 1996
Article: 44244 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 07:43:49 -0700
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> .....
> Ok.  How fast should one run the bimetal blades anyway?  I
> run my saw dry to reduce the mess of coolent dripping off
> the ends of the metal all over the garage floor or driveway.

I bought a cookie pan (with edges turned up), 11x17, from Wal-mart
and put it crosswise on the tray.  Made a couple little Z-brackets
to keep it from tipping but allow easy removal.  Catches a lot of
sawdust, etc.  Like you, I don't use coolant altho' occasionally oil.

I had a couple of blades that were full of small cracks.  Bought some
Delta
blades at Home Depot.  NO better than Enco.  This last Enco has lasted
real
well.  I would sort of think my adjustments aren't 100%.

> I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
> also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
> 
> Fitch

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:22:21 EST 1996
Article: 44245 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk (Andy Dingley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:51:26 GMT
Organization: Codesmiths Software Development Ltd.
Lines: 10
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The moving finger of dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) having written:

>Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) wrote:
>: gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
>: blast gyro (from a Bloodhound SAM, AFAIK) with a brass rotor about a
>   
>     Where did you get it? I want one.
>     David Ide
>     
Proops of course !    (some time ago)


From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:23 EST 1996
Article: 44246 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: 14 Dec 1996 01:13:17 GMT
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In article <donahue-1212961419090001@snews.zippo.com>, donahue@continet.com writes:
> In article <32af050f.87706327@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
> (Jens) wrote:
> 
> > Donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:
> > And since people don't find out, Apple will go the same way that BETA
> > VCR's went  (Beta was technologically better than VHS))
> > 
> That wouldn't have happened if:
> 1) BETA machines could play VHS tapes (Macs are very cross platform
> enabled and the influence of the internet will drive a move toward open
> standards)
> 2) Sony had licensed BETA to third parties (Several Mac clones are
> available and more are on the way)
> 3) There were compelling niche markets (Macs excel in several key areas:
> DTP, Multimedia, 3D etc.) 
> 4) BETA had a large installed base of loyal users.
> 

5) Sony hadn't refused to license the BETA format to producers of porn
and soft-porn videos. The VHS folks did, and *that* is the reason that
VHS machines dominated the market. 


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:24 EST 1996
Article: 44247 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:59:22 GMT
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In article <19961214083800.DAA15600@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bsimon1234@aol.com (BSimon1234) writes:

>I would like to know if anyone else has tried out the model 500 or 750
>Drill Doctor sharpened by Darex.
>
>

I have the 500. It is good but... The thingy for setting the drill in the
proper position leaves a little to be desired. It has two balde-like
fingers that grip the front and back of the flutes. Providing the drill
has not been severely relieved (as some DeWalt drills are) it does a good
jopb of aligining the drill.

However for smaller drills, 1/4 or less it is a bit of trial and error to
get the correct clearance angle behind the cutting edge. Short drills are
interesting to set up too. I use a lot of screw machine length drills and
just use the device to set the depth then I guess visually where the
cutting edges should be. Practice has it fairly well controlled now.

It sharpens really well and splits points very well. Providing you can
live with the setup system it is a fine addition to the workshop. I'm
hoping Darex will come up with an alternative to the current setup.
Someone recently suggested a visual setting tool in place of the current
one. This sounded to be along the lines of the way I do it by eye.

Given all of this it is still *way* better than any other sharpener I have
used costing less than $300. It is also infinitely better than sharpening
by hand.

Peter
PS Wear hearing protection.


From white@obwon.kodak.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:25 EST 1996
Article: 44248 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White, SMO Administration - 63552)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help on South Bend Info
Date: 10 Dec 1996 01:10:19 GMT
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Does anyone know what horsepower motor and rpm would be used on a 9"
South Bend Model "c". I purchased the lathe without a motor.


From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:26 EST 1996
Article: 44249 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Objective review of the Grizzly G4000 9" x 19" Lathe
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 11:16:44 -0800
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Bryan A. Whitfield wrote:

> If you have personal experience with this lathe or the supplier and
> would like to share it, please respond. Lets keep personal biases not
> based on actual experience with the G4000 or Grizzly out of the
> discussion if possible.

I have the Jet 920 and the Grizzley catalog, they seem to be identical. 

The '920 needed the back plate on the 3 jaw chuck faced to take care of the runout.
It has also required a fair amount of adjusting on the various slides, I think it was 
greasy when assembled.

It does not have a leadscrew reverse so left hand threading will require a modification.

It does not have a power cross feed.

There has got to be a better toolpost than the two that com with it. 

Drill chucks & MT adapters are available from other vendors.

The 4 jaw chuck will not close on less than about an inch, need to shim/block to fit 
work that is smaller.

If you are used to South Bend or Clausing equipment you probably won't like it. If you 
are starting from scratch as I did you will love it. 

The 200 pound size is about as big as you can move around by your self, I have rollers 
under mine...yes I know lathes are supposed to have rigid mounts but it fits my needs 
best this way.

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From mikeflip@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:27 EST 1996
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From: Mike <mikeflip@norfolk.infi.net>
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Subject: Re: $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
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Very sorry! I meant to post sender only.


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:28 EST 1996
Article: 44251 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:05:13 GMT
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In article <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com> "Christopher J. Galbraith" <cjg1@cris.com> writes:


>Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
>(I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??

>TIA
>-Chris
In Oregon, The "GI Joe's" chain of stores carries it,
but I don't know if they exist in any other states.



From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:29 EST 1996
Article: 44252 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:42:35 -0800
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rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
> 
> How do you keep your welding rods dry?

A welding shop I visit sometimes has an old refrigerator with the light wired on 
permanent that works great as a dry box. Since the dump here charges $15 to take 
refrigerators, the price was right!

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:30 EST 1996
Article: 44253 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:51:21 -0800
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hemp4peas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
> machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
> was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
> hemp4peas@aol.comMy Atlas lathe manual & the Machinery's Handbook both address the machining of plastics 
so I expect you are in the right place. Check your library for a copy of the Handbook, 
and then come back with specific questions if possible. 

The guys who hang out around here can be pretty crusty at times, but in the long run 
they will help you find what you are looking for. 


John Ferrell in Julian NC..

I intentionally end sentenances with prepositions because it it annoys some people like 
a sqeeky chalkboard!


From fdmorrison@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:32 EST 1996
Article: 44254 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fdmorrison@aol.com (Fdmorrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 12 Dec 1996 15:38:56 GMT
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Many of the older holding techniques developed in the last century for
planing and shaping would be useful.  Most general machine-shop texts from
years ago have sections devoted to such.  One I particularly enjoy is
Robert H. Smith's "Text-Book of Advanced Machine Work," available in
reprint through Lindsay Publications, Inc., or peruse used-book shops and
you may find an original that's cheaper.  Smith taught at MIT around
1920-30.


From bear@linwoodnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:33 EST 1996
Article: 44255 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bear <bear@linwoodnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: personalized mousepads
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:01:35 -0500
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             Personalize your mouse pad with us; a sturdy 12"x8" fabric

covered pad with your favorite family,jpeg,gif or bmp on it.. just mail

us your picture (will be returned) or 1.44 disk with your favorite

picture and $14.99 (shipping & handling included) in check or money

order form  to   Globalnet

                 PO Box 759

                 Lincoln NH 03251-0759

                 (603)-745-2898

       Please allow up to 2 wks for delivery   we will over night upon

request..please call for more infomation quantity discounts are

available


From thomas0297@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:34 EST 1996
Article: 44256 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Sheldon 13x34 lathe FS in NJ
Date: 13 Dec 1996 13:36:20 GMT
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I have a Sheldon 13x34 (approx) lathe I am interested in selling. It is
mounted on a cabinet with drawers. 3phase (I have converter if needed)
quick change gear box etc. Includes: carriage stop
                     some collets with stand
                     some dogs with plate
                     3 jaw universal
                     steady rest
                     several tool holders
                     many tool bits
                     live center
I had wanted to get $2500 for it.   Morton did a desk top apprasial and
gave it a fair market value of $2250 which I would be willing to take. The
lathe is in nice condition and I have pictures I could send via snail mail
(I don't have a scanner)
I anyone is interested, I am located in New jersey.   Have a good day   
Tom
My e-mail address is thomas0297@aol.com




From gds@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:35 EST 1996
Article: 44257 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gds@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Beginner Questions
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:15:08 GMT
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I have recently purchased the 2hp mill/drill from Enco.  Is seems to
be a pretty good machine for learning.  I have a few questions that
continue to perplex me.

-  What is a good procedure for centering an 8" rotary table?

- How crucial is leveling the machine?  I have it on Enco's mill drill
stand which I am certain must be unlevel.

Thanks for the help and any other comments on this machine would 
be helpful.



From mjn@HiWAAY.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:36 EST 1996
Article: 44258 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 03:08:05 GMT
Organization: HiWAAY Information Services
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If you can find an old style electronics parts store (the one with WW2 stuff in 
the attic), they may have it.  It was popular for painting electronic panels in 
the fifties.  (Before that, they used a lot of black crackle.)

In article <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com>, cjg1@cris.com says...
>
>Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
>(I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??
>
>TIA
>-Chris
>



From bbeizer@gnn.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:38 EST 1996
Article: 44259 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help on South Bend Info
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 08:43:48
Organization: Analysis
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In article <58id9r$f1n@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM> Ed White, SMO Administration - 
63552 wrote:
>Date:	10 Dec 1996 01:10:19 GMT
>From:	white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White, SMO Administration - 63552)
>Newsgroups:	rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject:	Help on South Bend Info
>
>Does anyone know what horsepower motor and rpm would be used on a 9"
>South Bend Model "c". I purchased the lathe without a motor.


About a half horse is nice.  Original documents say 1/4 but that's a bit
weak.  Don't go over 3/4 because there is a real danger you can break
the machine.  I use a 1/2 3600 rpm motor with some additional sheaves
to get the speed down low enough.  That way, I can also go higher speed
when I want to turn wood (horrors!  For shame! the purists flame.)

Boris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
TEL:  215-572-5580
FAX:  215-886-0144
Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From j7610154@themall.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:39 EST 1996
Article: 44260 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Re: $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
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Mike wrote:
> 
> Very sorry! I meant to post sender only. 
 
Much more useful to post to the sender's postmaster.  Pyramid schemes are 
not only rude and inappropriate to the net, they're also illegal.
 
Angie


From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:40 EST 1996
Article: 44261 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Q: hole saw arbor
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:53:25 -0600
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Rooster wrote:
> 
> --- begin undecipherable ranting ---
> 
> this ques concerns a Milwaukee 7055 "quick change" hole saw arbor.  It is
> a large arbor with drive pins that engage drive holes in the back of the
> saw.
> 
> this is confusing to explain, but if you screw the saw all the way down to
> the flange, the drive pins don't line up.  If you loosten the saw 1/4-1/3
> turn, the pins line up, but now the saw is a bit loose.
> 
> is there a way to have the saw tight against the flange AND engage the
> drive pins?
> 
> many will testify that i have been whacked in the head a few times too
> many, but i just don't see how you get this thing to work.  all that money
> i paid for college, you'd think they would have taught me this.
> 
> --- rant off ---
> 
> thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> rooster

 <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>>

Howdy Rooster,

Don't worry about the looseness, the pins are designed to prevent the
hole saw from getting too tight against the mandrel.  It'll work!  In my
work as an IBEW electrician, we use such hole saws all the time, cutting
up to six inch holes (there are better ways to cut six in holes).  Not
all mandrels have the two pins, so be thankful.  Hole saws by nature
wear out quickly, and it is sometimes almost impossible to get a worn
out saw off a mandrel that doesn't have pins, or worse, off a mandrel
where the user tightened the saw ignoring the pins.  Sometimes, you just
have to throw the mandrel away as it gets broken in the process of
removing the old "super tight" saw.

Randy


From bbeizer@gnn.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:41 EST 1996
Article: 44262 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 08:58:48
Organization: Analysis
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In article <E2D35M.Ho5@cix.compulink.co.uk> Richard Sewell wrote:
>Date:	Fri, 13 Dec 1996 16:58:33 GMT
>From:	rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Richard Sewell")
>Newsgroups:	rec.crafts.metalworking
>Subject:	Re: machining ceramics

>I've seen 'machinable ceramics' for sale - at frightening prices, but I 
>think they're what you want. Alternatively, would it be possible to make 
>the right shape out of wet porcelain & fire it ?

Possible, but don't forget the unpredictable shrinkage of ceramics when
they are fired--about 15% - 25%.  Also distortion is to be expected.  If
you have to make a tubular item (I assume that's what you want) don't
expect to get the right ID and OD and length without a lot of experimentation.
I learned this from observing my mud-slinger (pottery potterer) wife.
    As for machining, expect very high breakage (e.g., 90%).  The 
breakage starts when you first try to chuck the piece up.  I have tried
this without notable success.  As for tool bits, carbides at least, possibly
diamond.  Here's a possible suggestion: I haven't tried it this way. 

1.  Play around with the rough piece until you get the fired piece oversized
    slightly for ID, OD, and length. 

2.  Use some kind of epoxy putty to make a collar for chucking.  While it is 
    still soft, mount it in the chuck and indicate it to center it.  

3.  Don't try cutting tools.  Use a tool post grinder or mount a dremel
    tool with an appropriate stone.  I have tried that and inevitably, I
    shatter the piece.  

4.  Use very slow rotation (slowest) very low feeds, very shallow cuts.

5.  Protect all metal parts of the lathe in sight with cloth to prevent your
    lathe from getting ruined by the huge amount of destructive grit this 
    will throw up.

6.  Lubricate with lots of water.

Alternatively:
    See if you can buy some used Klystrons from a radio or TV station.
    Butchering may be easier than machining. 

Good luck-- you'll need it.

Boris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
TEL:  215-572-5580
FAX:  215-886-0144
Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From regisg@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:42 EST 1996
Article: 44263 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:55:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <58ubki$g3d@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
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To: diallist@ix.netcom.com

diallist@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I've just discovered this newsgroup tonight.  It seems to be
>full of nice, knowledgeable people.  It also seems to have a
>good "signal to noise" ratio (good info vs. spam).
>
>This is the first time I've ever tried posting to a
>newsgroup so I hope this works.
>
>My interest is sundials.  Of late, I have been wanting to
>make a brass sundial and engrave it by hand.  Unfortunately,
>I haven't had much success in finding out about the
>different kinds of brass or which types of brass are most
>suitable for hand engraving.  I'm also hoping someone in
>this newsgroup can provide me with a source of books,
>cassettes or videos that teach engraving.  Also, a supplier
>of hand engraving tools would be nice to hear about as well.
>
>Thanks for taking time to read this and thanks especially
>for any and all replys I may receive.
>
>Charles
>
>
What size do you plan on making your sundial?  I've seen cast but not 
machined sundials.  You can find hand engraving tools in most of the 
jewelry tool/supply catalogs like Rio Grande, Indian Jewelry 
Supply(800)545-6540, or Swest(800)527-5057.  Sorry I don't have the Rio 
Grand # right at hand. 

Good Luck,
Regis
  



From thomas0297@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:43 EST 1996
Article: 44264 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon 13x34 lathe FS in NJ
Date: 14 Dec 1996 14:02:27 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Jim   I am right next door in Parsippany


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:44 EST 1996
Article: 44265 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FS: Die Filer
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:32:09 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Hans... Do you have any files with it? I would be interested.

Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:45 EST 1996
Article: 44266 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:10:16 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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No flame here; I agree. I think the problem here is that it is easier to lay down a 
useless MIG weld and have it look perfect than with stick. The strength of a 
properly applied weld has very little to do with the process type.

Regards, Mark



From jcranegt90@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:46 EST 1996
Article: 44267 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcranegt90@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 15 Dec 1996 04:08:21 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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please excuse my not useing quotes in my posts as soon as i figure it out
i will start useing them. i have found that the anti-splatter spray for my
 mig welder makes a great coolent and lub for cuting both stainless and
aluminium on my band saw .i thought if it kees things from sticking to the
contact tip then it should do the same for saw blades.  jamie

jcranegt90


From jcranegt90@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:47 EST 1996
Article: 44268 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jcranegt90@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 15 Dec 1996 04:08:24 GMT
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sometime early in this thread someone mentioned the key to makeing any
kind of weld . be it stick , flame ,tig or mig. that is weld
preperationwhen properly prepared any weld wil be safe and strong. that
includes proper heat ,speed ,andfeed rate. i have used all types except
tig with excellent results.  my favorite is mig but like i said i haven't
tried tig yet .[my wife said i allready have enough welding machines]     
      jamie

jcranegt90


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:22:48 EST 1996
Article: 44269 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help finding Acme tap
Date: 12 Dec 1996 05:49:58 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 38
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Rebecca or Jim Schwitters (rebeccas@fay.infi.net) wrote:
: I need help finding a source for a non-standard acme tap.  I want a
: 9mm x 10 tpi right hand acme tap but could substitute a 3/8" x 10 tpi
: if the metric is too hard to find.  None of my catalogs or other
: sources list such a thing.

: I need to renew the cross slide and compound lead screws and nuts in
: my lathe.  I can easily turn the screws but the nuts are another
: matter.  Although available from the factory (Schaublin) as
: replacement parts,  they're considerably more expensive than I can
: easily justify.

MSC has these, although they almost certainly don't have the bastard
combination 9mm-10TPI Acme.  They have 3/8-12, 1/2-10 and others.  They
were on sale in November.  the 3/8-12 was $49.33 (reg price $70.54,
right hand only) the 1/2-10 was $44.85 (reg $64.07, both rt hand and
left hand thread available).  I just redid my crossslide screw on my
Atlas 10".  I made both the screw and the nut.  The screw was from
1/2" hardened and ground shaft stock, and was very difficult to cut.
The nut was brass, I made it a little longer than the original.  I hand
fit the acme thread in the nut, until it was a very close fit to the
screw.  It works very well, except for one thing.  When I took it apart
to measure the worn screw and nut, I never noticed it was LEFT hand
thread!  So, out of habit, I cut a RIGHT hand thread.  Now, the lathe
crossslide turns backwards from how it used to go!  Oops - one of these
days that is going to make a big screwup, when something goes wrong, and
I want to get the tool out of whatever is in the lathe quickly, and I turn
the wrong way out of habit!  I'll have to make a new screw and nut, but
not right now.

Anyway, I used a slim boring bar with changable steel tool bits, and I cut
an Acme threading bit for it.  It went quite well, compared to the trouble
with the hardened screw material.  I made the whole nut in about 4 hours.
Now I have the boring bar, which can be used for many internal boring
jobs, whereas the Acme tap is a pretty specific tool.

						Jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:22:49 EST 1996
Article: 44270 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 06:00:08 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <58o718$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

: Yeah, that's where I started Fitch, I managed about 0.0015 but it was
: enough to load the lead screw slightly. That 0.0015 at the bolt circle
: diameter of 4-1/4 (I think without going an measuring) translated into a
: significant angular displacement. May have to pay the money for those
: couplings yet.

If .0015" does not allow the motor to turn the shaft/screw smoothly, you
shouldn't be using a hard, direct coupling.  There are good couplings
made for both angular and radial misalignment.  Even if you replaced these
spacers with guage blocks, why do you think the shaft would then turn
without binding?  (I bet it would not.)  In any assembly of this sort,
where the motor shaft is beefy enough that it would not deflect, and
the driven shaft/screw is stiff enough to not bend, a coupling is
always used.  If you don't, the constant flexing will loosen any hard
coupling you could get, or even crack the motor shaft or damage the
motor's bearings.  You can mount a gear or belt pulley rigidly on a
motor, but except in very unusual situations you should avoid rigid
coupling a shaft to a motor.  The one place it is accepted is if the
motor turns a thin shaft, which can flex to absorb angular and radial
misalignment.  Then, however, you must accept a speed limitation on
the motor/shaft, because this is a perfect setup to excite vibrations
in the thin shaft.  Machine tool axis drives usualy turn slow enough
to be well below critical speed.
					Jon



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:22:50 EST 1996
Article: 44271 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!news.starnet.net!newsreader.wustl.edu!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: 12 Dec 1996 06:07:42 GMT
Organization: Washington University in St. Louis, MO USA
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <58o7fe$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu>
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Fitch R. Williams (frwillia@ptw.com) wrote:
: After you set them on something, they take a while to settle
: out - I usually make myself wait a minute before taking a
: "reading" to be sure it is done settling.  The bubble moves
: rather slowely the last little bit..

: You might consider using a less sensitive level to get the
: Master level in range.  Things have to be quite close or the
: bubble will be hard against one end of the vile or another.

: It was an excellent lesson in what is "rigid", and what
: isn't.

Yes, I really was amazed to find out that what I thought I'd gotten
VERY level with a "machinist's level" was still WAY off.  I leveled
my lathe well for the first time, and it got down to turning the foot
pads 1/64th of a turn.  The level could have let me level it even better,
but I couldn't cope with turning those feet finer than a 64th of a turn!
I could plainly see warpage on the top of my mill's table, and concave
wear on the bottom (as I moved the table). The sensitivity of these things
is amazing!  I'm still finding new uses for it.

					Jon



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:52 EST 1996
Article: 44272 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 14 Dec 1996 14:08:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 19
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In article <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
>also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
>
>

For aluminum and the like I run dry but for steel I use a spray can of
Accu-Lube SL-6 that has a little one-shot squirt nozzle. One shot on each
side of the blade, it's expensive but last for about a year or more. If
the cut is gonna take a while, ten minutes or more I will go back about
every 5 or 6 minutes and give it another shot.

Can't recall where I go it from but I do remember it was not cheap, bout
$15 for the 10oz can.

Peter



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:53 EST 1996
Article: 44273 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Web News
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:01:20 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <32B0B8F0.1DD0@cyberhighway.net>
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To: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>

Steven O. Smith wrote:
> 
> mac@adra.com wrote:
> >
> > Has the address for Metal Web News changed?

The address change was to be 11/23/96.
Check my signature line for the new address.
This URL worked for me 3 minutes ago...


> > Every time I try to go there I get tranfer interrupted.......
> Steven O. Smith
> steve@cc.com

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From jdc6@Lehigh.EDU Tue Dec 17 14:22:54 EST 1996
Article: 44274 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!Lehigh.EDU!Lehigh.EDU!not-for-mail
From: jdc6@Lehigh.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe thread standards?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 09:08:03 -0500
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ns4-1.cc.lehigh.edu


>I have a vacuum cup with a 1/8" dia. nipple coming out of it.
>Unfortunately, the nipple is not threaded NPT, and I can't figure out what
>it is.  It's close to 1/8" NPT, but not quite.  Could it be NPS?  Or is

>Thanks in advance.
>
>--
>ted phares
> human engineering laboratory
>  department of mechanical engineering
>   university of california at berkeley
>    me.berkeley.edu/hel
>
1/8 NPT is very close to M10x1.0 metric thread. Use a metric pitch gauge to
tell for sure.

John Caffrey
*******************************************************************************
*  John Caffrey                         *      Protoform Formula Vee          *
*  Engineering Technician               *      Rotus/Ford Super Seven         *
*  Dept. of Chemical Engineering        *                                     *
*  Lehigh University, Bethlehem, PA     *                                     *
*******************************************************************************



From mandtsys@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:55 EST 1996
Article: 44275 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mandtsys@ix.netcom.com(Thomas Thornton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: 14 Dec 1996 14:22:30 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 26
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References: <32AEEF8C.32FC@hre.com> <01bbe79e.d7ce6f60$61c2c2d0@pyroware.flash.net> <32AF3898.7D6F@hre.com> <01bbe84b.adbc2340$68c0c2d0@pyroware.flash.net> <58qrnr$n0@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32B19C86.7741@hotmail.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Dec 14  6:22:30 AM PST 1996

In <32B19C86.7741@hotmail.com> nojunkmail@hotmail.com writes: 
>
>Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
>
>> Yeah, a friend of mine has an electron-beam welded Titanium sphere
made
>> as a liquid Oxygen tank for the Gemini program.  AFTER making the
vessel,
>> they then found out that titanium LOX vessels had exploded once or
twice,
>> so, off to the scrap yard with it!  He makes a very nice beer in the
>> thing!
>>                                         Jon
>
>This post is suitable for inclusion in the rocket scientists hall of
>fame! ;-) 
>
>pht

and the tax-payers hall of infamy !


Robotic Regards,

Tom Thornton KE6NJC
http://www.netcom.com/~mandtsys/robots.html


From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Dec 17 14:22:56 EST 1996
Article: 44276 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ptd.net!newsmaster
From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
Date: 14 Dec 1996 14:24:50 GMT
Organization: ProLog - PenTeleData, Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32b2e16c.1263604@news.ptd.net>
References: <19961213083300.DAA05943@ladder01.news.aol.com> <E2DGnI.588@mv.mv.com>
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owen@davies.mv.com wrote:

>>   tekdad@aol.com (TEKDAD) writes:
>
>(much good material deleted)
>
>>  Additionally I have built an adapter for my wood stove
>>  which allows me to burn wood pellets instead of cord wood,
>>  yet can switched back to cord wood in only a couple minutes.
>
>I'd love to hear more about this!  How does it work?  What
>does it look like?  How easy would it be to adapt for a
>top-loading Tempwood?
>
>Many thanks.
>
>Owen Davies

I too would like to hear about this. ...
I spent most of the fall trying to do the same for my garage. I have
made a burner that looks something like a small forge that is feed
pelltets from a storage bin via a auger from a commercial coffee
grinder. But havent been to sucsessful at feeding the pellets at the
right speed, w\out making a big mess or not fast enough.


From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:57 EST 1996
Article: 44277 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-16.sprintlink.net!nntp.sprintmail.com!news@sprintmail.com
From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:44:39 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
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Message-ID: <32B1A417.50B7@sprintmail.com>
References: <57s9vq$dou@news.usit.net> <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net> <58hded$53@starlifter.us.dell.com> <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net>
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Randy Knott wrote:

> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  

In the 1950's There was a company in Columbus Ohio named "Columbus Col-Weld" that 
specialized in repairing cracked auto engines & blocks. Freeze ups due to poor quality 
or no antifreeze was common in that era. As I recall the process involved drilling the 
crack, put in plugs, then drill between the plus(overlapping the first plugs) and plug 
those holes. Probably a secret or two in the process to make it work. I don't know if 
they are still in business.

The same people that did this would come out to your garage and turn a rod journal with 
the crank still in the engine. They used the starter motor & the 110 line power to run 
their equipment. It was not nearly as expensive as you would think, but I don't remember 
the exact cost. 

This was also the point in time that brakes were good for 20,000 miles & clutches lasted 
40,000 if you were careful.  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
old shoe into a rod or main bearing so he could use the car (gently of course) until he 
could gather parts to fix it next weekend. You could also get the leather at the 
hardware store, but the old shoe was cheaper.

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:22:59 EST 1996
Article: 44278 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-16.sprintlink.net!nntp.sprintmail.com!news@sprintmail.com
From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:47:23 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32B1A4BB.2DCF@sprintmail.com>
References: <57s9vq$dou@news.usit.net> <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net> <58hded$53@starlifter.us.dell.com> <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net>
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Randy Knott wrote:

> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  

In the 1950's There was a company in Columbus Ohio named "Columbus Col-Weld" that 
specialized in repairing cracked auto engines & blocks. Freeze ups due to poor quality 
or no antifreeze was common in that era. As I recall the process involved drilling the 
crack, put in plugs, then drill between the plus(overlapping the first plugs) and plug 
those holes. Probably a secret or two in the process to make it work. I don't know if 
they are still in business.

The same people that did this would come out to your garage and turn a rod journal with 
the crank still in the engine. They used the starter motor & the 110 line power to run 
their equipment. It was not nearly as expensive as you would think, but I don't remember 
the exact cost. 

This was also the point in time that brakes were good for 20,000 miles & clutches lasted 
40,000 if you were careful.  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
old shoe into a rod or main bearing so he could use the car (gently of course) until he 
could gather parts to fix it next weekend. You could also get the leather at the 
hardware store, but the old shoe was cheaper.

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:00 EST 1996
Article: 44279 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.idt.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-16.sprintlink.net!nntp.sprintmail.com!news@sprintmail.com
From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:49:35 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
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Randy Knott wrote:

> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  

In the 1950's There was a company in Columbus Ohio named "Columbus Col-Weld" that 
specialized in repairing cracked auto engines & blocks. Freeze ups due to poor quality 
or no antifreeze was common in that era. As I recall the process involved drilling the 
crack, put in plugs, then drill between the plus(overlapping the first plugs) and plug 
those holes. Probably a secret or two in the process to make it work. I don't know if 
they are still in business.

The same people that did this would come out to your garage and turn a rod journal with 
the crank still in the engine. They used the starter motor & the 110 line power to run 
their equipment. It was not nearly as expensive as you would think, but I don't remember 
the exact cost. 

This was also the point in time that brakes were good for 20,000 miles & clutches lasted 
40,000 if you were careful.  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
old shoe into a rod or main bearing so he could use the car (gently of course) until he 
could gather parts to fix it next weekend. You could also get the leather at the 
hardware store, but the old shoe was cheaper.

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From gemars@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:02 EST 1996
Article: 44280 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: GEMARS <gemars@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:23:19 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <32B19F17.771A@sprintmail.com>
References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58j01r$1t8@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32ADB33E.6510@scruznet.com>
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To: lmarshal@scruznet.com

Lee Marshall wrote:
> 
> Jonathan M. Elson wrote:
> >
> > pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> > : G'day,
> >
> > : Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
> > : NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
> > : diameter hole through them.
> >
> > : Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length. I
> > : don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to machine
> > : them to the exact same length in the lathe.
> >
> > Gee, why?  I do this all the time, and usually get it to +- .005" without
> > even trying.
> 
> A relatively simple method of acheiving repeat length on a lathe is to
> place a spider plate on the face of the chuck (presuming that you don't
> have a collet setup). This is a three fingered plate that goes between
> the chuck jaws and gives you a known position against which to put the
> work piece. If the part is too short to protrude past the tips of the
> jaws, you will have to add a threaded hole for an adjusting screw to
> become the back stop.
> You can either use a carraige stop to the ways, or simply not move the
> carraige for the three spacers that you want to machine.
> 
> While this is a pretty simple operation for many of us, it may be
> something that has never been attempted by others. Let's all try to help
> each other out, rather than trying to denigrate someone's lack of
> knowledge.
> Lee Marshall
> Bonny Doon Engineering     http://www.bonnydoonengineering.com

Damn nice attitude!! GW, beginner


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:03 EST 1996
Article: 44281 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 15:15:58 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <58ug3b$pnh@news-central.tiac.net>
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Keywords: 
In article <19961214140800.JAA21979@ladder01.news.aol.com>, pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>In article <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:
>
>>I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
>>also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
>>
>>
>
>For aluminum and the like I run dry but for steel I use a spray can of
>Accu-Lube SL-6 that has a little one-shot squirt nozzle. One shot on each
>side of the blade, it's expensive but last for about a year or more. If
>the cut is gonna take a while, ten minutes or more I will go back about
>every 5 or 6 minutes and give it another shot.
>
>Can't recall where I go it from but I do remember it was not cheap, bout
>$15 for the 10oz can.

For those who don't have a compressor or don't want the mess of a fluid 
coolant system, there are a number of 'stick' lubes on the market.  These 
are basically large (1 1/2"D) tubes of a waxy material that will melt 
against a running blade.  For a really long job, you may have to apply 
some a couple of times, but it's low on mess, low on hardware, and cuts 
much better than dry.  A little goes a long way.  If you use too much, 
you'll end up with blobs of chip-loaded wax splattered around, but no 
oily puddles, calls from the EPA etc.

Doug White


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:05 EST 1996
Article: 44282 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Electo-Polishing of Stainless Steel
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 15:18:08 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <58ug7d$pnh@news-central.tiac.net>
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Keywords: 
In article <cd7cc$14361f.140@MYCROFT>, Junkman@olywa.net (D.W.Rech) wrote:
>All right you primitive screwheads, listen up! (codeng@power.co.za
>said:)
>
>>
>>
>>
>>I Need to Polish  welds on small stainless steel components.
>>Grinding and Buffing is not possible (If the weld is ground then too
>>much material will be removed and failure will be likely)
>>
>>I believe that Sulfuric and Phosporic acids together with DC current
>>can be used. 
>>
>>Can Someone please advise what proportions and reccomend a suitable
>>current/voltage?
>>
>>John Spargo
>>
>>codeng@power.co.za
>>
>>
>I used a 125 volt 10 amp variac turned down to 20-24 volts. Depending
>on the pad on the end of the wand  (fiberglass, rockwool, cotton ) and
>the strength of the acid ( phosphoric ) , the current was about 5
>amps. You can use more voltage, but the pad will occassionally short
>out. Be sure to protect both sides of the circuit with a 10 amp fuse. 
>The system removed the blue in the stainless and also removed the
>black carbon-like residue. It reduced our finishing time on stainless
>steel sinks by about one-half.

Do you use a rectifier in this process, or just run AC?

Doug White


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:06 EST 1996
Article: 44283 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:02:45 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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cstep@composit.ultranet.com (Chris Stepanian) wrote:

>I am interested in buying a TIG welder for use in welding some 
>thin aluminum and steel tubing, specifically for bike frames.  
>I've used TIG equipment before and am familiar with the
>techniques; my specific question is whether it is possible
>to run a small TIG machine like the Miller EconoTIG from
>my household dryer plug (220V, 50 A).  

Check your breaker panel. More than likely your dryer circuit is a 30
amp circuit even though the plug may be rated higher.

>The metals are 
>not thick; steel about .030 or so and the aluminum maxing
>out at .25 in. for some of the pieces and .060 for most of them.

The Econo Tig will NOT be powerfull enough to work with 0.25 aluminum
no matter how much juice comes out of your dryer plug. I don't know
what the exact limits are for al but it's less than steel because of
the high heat conductivity. The Econo Tig will be ok for the 0.030
steel but I would be reluctant to try it on a dryer line (50 amp would
be ok though).

Disclaimer: I have not run the Econo Tig - just seen it demonstrated
and was astounded how useless it was on aluminum of any appreciable
size.

Jens


From gemars@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:07 EST 1996
Article: 44284 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: GEMARS <gemars@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:15:31 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
Lines: 20
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To: Dave Matthews <dmatt@roch875.mc.xerox.com>

Dave Matthews wrote:
> 
> The manual for my old Craftsman lathe calls for
> SAE 10 weight for most of the lube and Keystone
> 122 Outboard Gear Lube for the gears.  I assume
> that I can use any 90w something gear lube for
> the gears but what is the current equiv for SAE 10?
> Is this 3-in-1 weight?  The lathe is in excellent
> shape and I don't want to screw it up.
> 
> Dave

Dave,  Lubriplate Products offers a lube data pamphlet that should give 
you some confidence in lube selection.  Mine of 11/92 suggests that 
Lubriplate No. 2  ..."is a SAE20 oil for light general oil applications. 
Excellent for ring oiled bearings, wick feeds, bottle oilers, oil cups."

I got mine through a bearing distributor.

Good luck, GW


From cmu320@freenet.mb.ca Tue Dec 17 14:23:08 EST 1996
Article: 44285 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!hookup!swrinde!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!nntp.mbnet.mb.ca!centralplains.freenet.mb.ca!cmu320
From: Tom Kruesel <cmu320@freenet.mb.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Cold Welding Cast Iron
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:18:09 -0600
Organization: MBnet - Manitoba's Connection To The Internet
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I'm not sure this is the process that was in question a few weeks back, 
but it sounds like it to me. I was skimming a new Lindsay Press book when 
I ran across "Cold Soldering".  It works for "dirty cast iron" even.  
here's the Reader's Digest version. (if you want the whole text, buy te 
book "Metalworking" from Lindsay and see p. 250, or e-mail me)

A Flux of 1 part metallic Sodium to 50-60 parts mercury, which must be 
stored in an air-tight container.  (shake to mix)

The solder is a weak solution of Sulphate of copper (10 oz to 1 qt. 
Water)  Precipitate the copper with Zinc rods.  Wash precipitate several 
times with hot water.  Drain off water and for every3 oz of precipitate, 
add 6-7 oz of mercury.  This will form a paste which becomes VERY hard in 
a couple of hours.  Make into small pellets that will soften when heated.

When ready to use, slowly heat till it "sweats" mercury.  Wipe this 
mercury off and kneed the pellet  with mortar & pestal till a smooth 
putty.  Flux surface and smear "solder in".  Sets in a couple of hours.

Hope this is helpful.  From what I remember reading, anyone who has success
with this owes me $2000.00 and a three month apprenticeship!  ;^)

I'll be checking the mail for those cheques...


Tom


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:09 EST 1996
Article: 44286 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 00:08:27 -0800
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rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) wrote:

> I am beginning to
>wonder if we are not over-concerned with lube specs. It may be that we
>are out of date on our lube information. Modern oils have a tremendous
>operating range. It seems to me that the old time very narrow
>lubrication recommendations may need some revision.
>        My advice is to get a good light weight oil - either spindle or
>motor oil - clean the reservoir well, fill it up, and get on with the
>fun. 


AMEN !!!!!!


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:11 EST 1996
Article: 44287 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:27:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <58uh1h$rh1@sjx-ixn9.ix.netcom.com>
References: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
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In <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert
Lorenz) writes: 
>
>Just received my Darex Drill Dr. and sharpened about 30 drills and 
>drilled a few holes, works great!!!!
>
    I haven't seen one of these. Can you tell a little more about it?
                                            Roger L.


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:12 EST 1996
Article: 44288 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:24:26 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <58ugra$qp6@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com>
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In <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> "David A. Holly"
<dholly@erols.com> writes: 
>
>I too am interested in air rifles and have been toying with the idea
of
>building a bellows type rifle.  I read, in Beeman's Airgun
Digest....<<

    Airguns fascinate me too! I do not know anything about the bellows
type, I always thought that the more powerful airguns used a higher
pressure contained in a pressure reservoir. I do have a wierd
quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with ether.
When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether is
injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22 cal.
    Ever seen one of these?  
                                Roger L.



From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:13 EST 1996
Article: 44289 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders & Viruses
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:16:43 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 80
Message-ID: <32b7c1ab.12298731@news.sprynet.com>
References: <19961213164000.LAA16585@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961214074900.CAA14293@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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There has been some discussion lately about Internet-borne Viruses.  I
am NO EXPERT on computers or virii (?), but when I got an e-mail
warning of the Deeyenda virus, I checked the experts (IMO), Symantec
(makers of Norton Anti-Virus).  On their Compuserve Forum, I found the
following (from the section leader):

==========================================================

Subject:  Is this real? - Msg Number: 209105
   From:  Duane White <S-L> xxxxx,xxxx
     To:  Douglas W. Pulse Jr. xxxxx,xxx
  Forum:  SYMNEW   Sec: 02-Norton Antivirus 95
   Date:   6-Dec-96 21:15

Douglas,

The message is not for real -- feel free to convey that fact to the
Gentleman who sent it to you suggesting that he, like you, check his
facts before spreading fiction.  The message is a total hoax, a not
even well-done ripoff of the warning message used by the hoax virus
"Good-Times".

Here's the Symantec AntiVirus Research Center report on Deeyenda:

Deeyenda
Aliases:        E-mail, Good Times.Deeyenda, Deeyenda Maddick
Infection length:       Hoax
Area of infection:      Hoax
Likelihood:             Hoax
Region reported:        Worldwide
Characteristics:        Hoax
Target platform:        Hoax
Trigger date:           Hoax


Description:
This "virus" does not exist.

Deeyenda is not a virus; it is a complete hoax. There is currently no
virus that has the characteristics ascribed to Deeyenda. The word of
this supposed virus has been spread through Internet electronic mail,
>from  an apparent student at Carnegie Mellon University.

The mail message describing the virus is taken from the original Good
Time virus e-mail hoax. It could even be described as the first virus
hoax strain.

The message includes the following "warning:"

There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If
you receive an email message with the subject line "Deeyenda", DO NOT
read the message, DELETE it immediately.

It even goes so far as to claim the warning is from the FCC (as does
the Good Times hoax). Further, the message claims that this "[virus]
rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it."

Please ignore any messages regarding this supposed "virus" and do not
pass on any messages regarding it. Passing on messages about this hoax
only serves only to further propagate it.

 Duane <Section Leader>

==================================================

More proof these college kids have WAY too much time on their hands.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:14 EST 1996
Article: 44290 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!cbgw2.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!ssbunews.ih.lucent.com!not-for-mail
From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: 15 Dec 1996 04:22:22 GMT
Organization: AT&T Network Wireless Systems Business Unit
Lines: 15
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <58vudu$hio@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

Mark Winlund  <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up,
> the old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available

Is it that much better than the new stuff without it?? I use the new stuff
a lot and I think it works very well. I have been told that the old stuff
is really foul if you get it hot while drilling or turning..




-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:16 EST 1996
Article: 44291 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B1A15B.19E0@hotmail.com>, nojunkmail@hotmail.com writes:

>than perfect spacers to bring the motor into alignment? My guess is that
>the motor mounting flange is no better than +/- 0.005" under the best of
>circumstances so what good is a spacer that's +/- 0.0000000? 
>
>Is there something I'm missing. 
>
>

Too much messing around with shims. The NEMA-43 is face mounted not foot
so the perpindicularity (such a word?) of the spindle to the face is way
better than 0.005" Machining the spacers on the face plate at the same
time solved the problem. Once I got the radial alignment ritght I
tigthened everythinup and it works fine.

I will still consider a flex coupling of some sort althout the DC servo
motors that came with the mill were direct coupled exactly as I am doing
the steppers. Only difference is the steppers have .625 shaft and the
servos had .500 so I have had to make an adaapeter that set the stepper
out another inch further thus requiring the spacers.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:17 EST 1996
Article: 44292 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58sfh5$1at@news-2.csn.net>, cpollard@csn.net (Chris Pollard)
writes:

>The problem with this new AOL payment plan is that theoretically a few
>users could log on permanently and block the whole local access.  THey
>would not pay for the local phone call and they don't pay for being on
AOL
>the extra time.
>
>This could be a REAL BIG problem
>
>

They would have to be at the keyboard all the time as AOL will log you off
automatically if nothing is happeneing. No file transfers, no keystrokes.
I have been warned while composing e-mail on line. I was typing in the
editor and after about 10 mins  a message popped up saying I would be
dumped in two minutes if I did not respond.

I don't think it is a problem. I have yet to have a busy signal even at
8.00pm which is the middle of prime usgage time.

Peter
Saving bucks with unlimited time.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:18 EST 1996
Article: 44293 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B1E46B.1D31@eng.sun.com>, Bart Smaalders <barts@eng.sun.com>
writes:

>Why not just hang the motor off of it's output shaft with a rigid
>coupling, and put a torque arm (out of say 1/4" Al) back to something
>solid.  The motor won't move, and no fancy technology is required.
>
>The bearings need to be able to take the weight, but then, that's
>not asking a lot...
>
>

Perhaps a quick check back to my original post would reveal these are
1125oz-in NEMA-43 motors. They weigh over 40 lbs each with a 5/8 shaft.
They are almost a foot long.

No mount and a torque arm, I don't think so Tim, :)>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:19 EST 1996
Article: 44294 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58rn0tINNmgn@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu>,
powers@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers) writes:

>the stuff and now I will have to change my design to make use of
>commercially available adamantite and neutronium........Any suggestions
>on how to machine antimatter on an old logan?
>
>

Can't be done it needs CNC. CNC can do anything, right Fitch?

Peter
Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! CNC


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:21 EST 1996
Article: 44295 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE US COMPANIES LIST OF FAME: Please add to the list
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:19 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 22
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In article <32B1BBE8.A9A@boeing.com>, Ken Finney
<kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com> writes:

>> Why are there hundreds of company names in the LA Times classifieds. If
>> you read through it they list the names of companies then some ads then
>> more company names and more ads. What for? Do these companies pay?
>> 
>> Peter
>> Still curious.

>If memory serves, newspapers offer substantial discounts to companies
that
>agree to continuously advertise.  It is worth the discount to just pay
for
>an ad that says "xyz company" until you have something better to say. 
Sort
>of like the "REAL WORLD (tm)" equivalent to a usenet "me too" message.

An interesting thought maybe that's it.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:22 EST 1996
Article: 44296 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B15B32.1C99@moa.net>, Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
writes:

>Hey thanks I kinda fiqured that one out. but I thought about it and 
>bought a bullnose anyway. I'll use it to turn down the outside of my 
>tubes. That's why I love this hobby (pasttime) so. 
>always a new accessory around the corner!
>:

You can *never* have too much stuff. :)>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:23 EST 1996
Article: 44297 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961213191601.OAA20641@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bohigas@aol.com writes:

>Flame spraying is also known as "Hard Chroming",
>it is a heat surfacing process, it is often used
>in machine rebuilding & jewelry.
>
>

Don't want to get into a war over this Alberto but flame spraying is *not*
hard chroming. Perhaps you mean Hard Cladding.

Flame spraying is as described by Jon, and hard chroming is electroplated
on in a chrome bath to deposit layers of chrome that can be later ground
back to a specific size or shape. It is mostly used to build up worn
surfaces on shafts etc.

Some mills have it on the ways too. 

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:24 EST 1996
Article: 44298 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: >>>>>> "Welding Secrets" Book <<<<<<
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Message-ID: <19961214155200.KAA24926@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <19961214011100.UAA01508@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
netw6000@aol.com (Netw6000) writes:

>                          "Welding Secrets"
>
>              No Other Book Will Prevent More Accidents
>
>

I bet "Safe handling of condoms in the 90's" would!

Peter
Still unfriendly towards spammers, 80 year old or not!


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:25 EST 1996
Article: 44299 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:09 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b0f166.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>make a hot walker if I had a place to put one .,. maybe with
>cnc ... if Peter has cnc why does he need a compressor?  cnc
>can do *Everything* ... even make sockets ... I need an
>asprin!
>
>

I could whip one up for you on the CNC if you have a block of asprin.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:27 EST 1996
Article: 44300 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:37 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com>, "Christopher J. Galbraith"
<cjg1@cris.com> writes:

>Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
>(I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??
>
>

I once accidently created hammertone by adding the wrong thinner to auto
paint. It looked like hammertone in the can and it came out that way on
the 55 Volkswagon. It dried OK and lasted just fine. Can't recall what I
mixed with what but I think it was a one coat enamel auto finish and I
mixed laquer thinners with it. Almost positive that was the mix. Give it a
try. I know it was and enamel finish as I had no way of buffing a laquer
finish. 

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:28 EST 1996
Article: 44301 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58rsir$7lp@starlifter.us.dell.com>, edward@locutus.us.dell.com
(Edward Godwin) writes:

>|> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
>|> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need
to
>|> hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
>|> Clint
>
>I would settle with finding one of these guys.  I have some cast iron
parts
>that need repair.  If they guarantee their work, why not give it a try?
>
>I hope that the original poster(s) to this thread, or someone who has had
>recent contact with one of these individuals will post some contact
>information.
>
>

The orignal post regarded an exhaust manifold, I am not so sure how JB
would stand the heat. Go slowly slowly.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:29 EST 1996
Article: 44302 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!news.misty.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:24 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B1B039.2544@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:

>drinking the heretical Diet Pepsi. It is a holdover from my dissapated 
>youth when cravings were not resisted and debauchery ran rampant. 
>As a saving grace, however, I can readily admit to drinking Deli Coffee 
>that has sat on the table of the Bridgeport for more than a day. This 
>alone, should buy me some absolution.
>
>

Yup that'll do it. You are and *absolutely* sick little puppy! :)>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:30 EST 1996
Article: 44303 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Make Money in Junk Metal
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <19961214155100.KAA24916@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.95.961213090704.6383A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
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In article <Pine.OSF.3.95.961213090704.6383A-100000@vela.acs.oakland.edu>,
Michael Latcha <latcha@vela.acs.oakland.edu> writes:

>Or was she referring to scrap (what I refer to as "future project
>material")?  If so, then please disregard the above...
>
>

Hey Michael, I like it, you were on a roll there for a while then you wimp
out with this closing statement. :)>

One mans junk is another's idea of heaven, I *know* cos I do *not* have
any junk.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:31 EST 1996
Article: 44304 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
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In article <58rlt7$2dg@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>,
rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>    Through the miracle of advertising...<g>...modern  compressors are
>rated at stall current instead of running current. That Sears 6.5 HP
>motor won't actually generate that many horsepower - but it WILL draw
>the amperage that would give that much horsepower....right before it
>burns up.
>   

Yeah, I know. But 9 at 90 with 2hp?? I realize my motor is 240 at 15 amps
and that makes roughly 4.8hp before losses. They must be extremely healthy
horses for only two of em to give 9cfm at 90psi.

Peter



From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:32 EST 1996
Article: 44305 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!LOCALNAME
From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bicycle chain?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 12:55:04 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 14
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In article <19961213233901.SAA28838@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
   davenugent@aol.com (DaveNugent) wrote:
>Hello all,
>     I've got a trivia question: what is bicycle chain?  Specifically, is
>it ANSI 25 ,or 35 ,or is it something else?  Where can I find non-bike
>sprockets that will fit bike chain?
>
>Regards,
>David Nugent
>"Life is a journey, not a destination."

Just make them. The chain pitch is .500 and the roller dia, is .300. 
The Marks handbook gives equations for figuring out all the dimensions,
and they're a lot of fun to cut.


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:33 EST 1996
Article: 44306 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:58:11 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <57s9vq$dou@news.usit.net> <32A2F8CF.6C2C@ldl.net> <58hded$53@starlifter.us.dell.com> <58hvo4$2ka@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com> <32AE5568.6C06@intnet.net> <32B1A53F.24AF@sprintmail.com>
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In <32B1A53F.24AF@sprintmail.com> John L Ferrell
<johnferrell@sprintmail.com> writes: 
  A clever mechanic might also fit a piece of leather from an 
>old shoe into a rod or main bearing so he could use the car (gently of
course) until he 
>could gather parts to fix it next weekend. You could also get the
leather at the 
>hardware store, but the old shoe was cheaper.
>
>John Ferrell in Julian NC

    Ah! that takes me back a ways! I used leather rod bearings in my
old motorbike (Whizzer) in High School till I learned to pour some
babbit. Got to where I could slap in a new set in short order....The
leather makes a real mess in the oil pan when you go to put in the next
set. Sort of a leather mush. I kept "rod bearing material " on a roll
in the garage. The best was an oil-tanned strip from the saddle shop.
Good for maybe 10 or 20 miles! My dad taught me the trick, so it's been
around a while.
                            Roger L.


From alkmy@mail.ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:35 EST 1996
Article: 44307 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mournblade.ptw.com!never-18.ptw.com
From: alkmy@mail.ptw.com (Your Name Here)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pewter source
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 16:50:41 GMT
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Hi folks, got a question and I hope you can help.

I'm looking for a source of bulk pewter in California (Los Angeles
county if possible). If anyone can help please post here or E-Mail me
at alkmy @ mail.ptw.com , thanks in advance.



From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:36 EST 1996
Article: 44308 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!peerfeed.internetmci.com!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:42:56 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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In <stagesmith-1312962200490001@cust104.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler) writes: 
>
>OK guys lets get this straight some people actualy think that MIG is
>weaker than stick.
>You have got to be kidding. The only reason this would apply is if
someone
>knew nothing about MIG welding.
>
>Okay I've ranted enough.
>let the flames begin
>                            Ernie Leimkuhler

    Just to head off some of the flames, I've welded for a lot a years
too and don't find that mig or stick or flame is all that much
different in strength. You just use whichever when it is convenient. I
will say that the first few passes you ever make with mig are likely to
be poor....but after a little practice it is all the same. Stick is
stronger if you need to get down into a pocket just because it is
easier to jam the stick in there! If I am doing something like an axe
head I will usually use flame because I have more control over pre-heat
and expansion....does require re-hardening though.
                                                    Roger L.


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:37 EST 1996
Article: 44309 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 15 Dec 1996 04:05:27 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:
>Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Proper tension (not usually achievable with cheap saws) is very important to proper 
>>cutting and life. I bought a tension meter years ago, & it was worth the expense.
>
>I learn something new every day.  Bandsaw blade application,
>tension, speed, etc.  sounds like a good place for me to do
>some personal research. 
>
>Do you have an address for the publications you mention?

Try your local welding supplier. They will get it for you.


>
>I've not seen one of these tension meters.   Sounds like a
>good thing to have around.  Does it work based on some sort
>of calibrated & measured force to
>"bend-slightly-in-the-middle-between-two-points" principle?
>
>I'm asking because maybe I can make something like that - a
>screw that pushes against a spring to slightly deform the
>blade between two fixed points, with a measurement of spring
>deflection as the indicator of tension.  It could be
>go-nogo, I wouldn't need more than single point calibration,
>I only use one width and thickness of blade on the metal
>saw.


Surprisingly enough, it measures the actual stretch of the blade. It is a simple 
device, with a dial indicator and two clamps about an inch apart. The other 
surprising fact is that the same meter will read all sizes of blade. Under proper 
tension, they will all stretch the same amount. This is according to the Lennox 
salesman, (and the gauge inst

>To "calibrate it":  My Delta woodworking bandsaw has a
>window, a spring, and an indicating washer for setting the
>blade tension, and can use 1/2" blades like my Johnson
>horizontal metal saw.  I could set a 1/2"  blade up properly
>tensioned on my Delta wood working bandsaw and calibrate the
>home made tension meter device for half inch X .025"(?)
>blades, the only ones that are usable on my Johnson saw.
>
>My Johnson saw can put a *lot* of tension on a blade.  It
>has a sizable "T" handle on a 3/8-16 threaded rod pushing
>against a sliding casting.  I wonder if I may have been less
>than properly assertive when adjusting the blade tension.
>
>Lets see:
>
>.025" thick X .45" from root of tooth to back = .0113 square
>inches of blade cross section at minimum point.  I'd guess
>it is reasonably tough steel in tension, maybe 27ksi yield
>at .1% /1000 hr creep.  This suggests I'd need about 305 lbs
>per side or 610 lbs total jacking force on the screw.  The
>screw is 3/8 - 16 NC.  It would advance .0625" for every
>3.14" around a 1" dia circle for a multiplication of ~50
>pounds axial thrust per 1 inch-lb of torque at 100%
>efficiency.  I could use 90% assuming it is clean and well
>lubricated.  That suggests I need 610/(.9 X 50) = 13.5
>in-lbs of torque to get the proper blade tension if I have
>made the right assumptions.  Thats not to much twist.  After
>calculating it I went down and played with the in-lb torque
>wrench.  That is practically no torque at all.  
>
>I must be doing something wrong, I usually put more torque
>than that on the blade.  I am probably not using a high
>enough tensile strength rating for the blade metal.
>
>If these assumptions are correct, I shouldn't get into a
>"contest of wills" with the tightening handle.
>
>I will hunt around on the Web and see if Starrett has
>anything on how to use their blades.
>
>Fitch
>
>
>
>
>




From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:38 EST 1996
Article: 44310 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 13:07:50 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
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In article <58rpsr$29j6@top.MTS.Net>, Neil Poersch <npoersch@mts.net> wrote:
>
>> 
>> I believe most carb bodies are a zinc alloy. I hate to admit it,
>> but I've repaired several worn throttle shaft bores with good old
>> JB Weld.
>> 
>> 
>Pardon my ignorance but what is JB Weld? Is it some sort of epoxy compound?
>
>Neil
>

ya, it's a two part metal filled epoxy mix that's been around for ages.
They used to have displays in auto parts stores with two valves stuck 
together with it that were impossible to pull apart. The stuff actually
works well, but it seemed to earn itself a bad reputation by it's
horrible misuse. (kinda like Bondo)



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:40 EST 1996
Article: 44311 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: looking for source for scrapers
Date: 14 Dec 1996 16:25:54 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B2510D.1D8D@voyager.net>, Suzette Perry
<after5studio@voyager.net> writes:

>Me again, have you used these for scraping? I have the book, Machine
>Tool Reconditioning and they only show straight edges with heavy ribbing
>to avoid warp.
>
>

Depends on the length you need to scrape. For 3 or 4 feet I have used them
with great success. You just need to make sure there is no bow in them. I
have used toolmakers clamps to hold blocks to the straight edge that hold
square to the work. As the blocks are all the same size it is a simple
matter to align them with the edge of the way. This is much more difficult
if you are scraping inverted vee ways as it is almost impossble to get the
straight edge not to bow. For those I suspect the ribbed types would be
mandatory.

However I wonder whether a lump of finished hardwood with a saw slit along
its length for the stright edge to fit into might add sufficient
stiffness. Maybe even clamp the stright edge into the saw cut with wood
wedges. The saw cut could be about 1/2 to 2/3 the depth of the straight
edge. The small amount of wavyiness you could get this way would not
affect the end result. Protect the straight edge too.

Scraping is slow exacting work. If you need to do it then do it, but I
would opt for paying to have it ground if possible. Perhaps I have wasted
(sorry, spent) too much time scraping and lost sight of the 'fun'. It used
to be a punishment job for final year apprentices'. Can't imagine why I
always got the punishment jobs. ;)>

As to your book, often the text book and the art are rarely the same.
Unless you are planning on scraping as a business, buying a $3K straight
edge for a one-off job is hard to justify. See if you can take a wander
around a large machine shop (pre-CNC) and you will be amazed at the things
that have been cobbled together to make a very workable system for
specific one-offs etc.

As someone said a little while back when he showed people around his
workshop he would say, "I can make *anything* on these machines, if I
can't make it then I can make a machine with them that will."

Peter





From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:41 EST 1996
Article: 44312 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: 14 Dec 1996 16:25:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58te31$7ns@sjx-ixn3.ix.netcom.com>, diallist@ix.netcom.com
writes:

>My interest is sundials.  Of late, I have been wanting to
>make a brass sundial and engrave it by hand.  Unfortunately,
>I haven't had much success in finding out about the
>different kinds of brass or which types of brass are most
>suitable for hand engraving.  I'm also hoping someone in
>this newsgroup can provide me with a source of books,
>cassettes or videos that teach engraving.  Also, a supplier
>of hand engraving tools would be nice to hear about as well.
>
>Thanks for taking time to read this and thanks especially
>for any and all replys I may receive.
>
>

Hey Fitch, this sounds like a job for CNC! :)>

Sorry I can't help with engraving brass but as a young apprentice in the
glassworks that made bottles I routinely engraved cast iron. We used 3/16
diameter High Speed Steel tool blanks. They were butt welded to 3/16
diameter drill rod making an overall length of about 10". We then ground
the HSS to a chisel point or a vee point. Using a small hammer, about 6 or
8 oz we would tap our way around a line left by using typist's carbon
paper and an original tracing.

Another place to start for more info might be in books that relate to
engraving guns. That is still done using the same style of chisels as we
used. Costs an arm and a leg to buy the chisels, but perhaps buy a couple
of different style and then copy them with the HSS and drill rod technique
above.

If you have no luck, I can sharpen a couple of pieces of 3/16 steel in the
fashion of the chisels we used and mail them to you. You could use them as
a visual guide to make your own out of HSS. Private email your address if
you like.

Peter





From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:42 EST 1996
Article: 44313 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 16:21:09 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 38
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In <32B19D43.6BCF@sprintmail.com> GEMARS <gemars@sprintmail.com>
writes: 
>
>Dave Matthews wrote:
>> 
>> The manual for my old Craftsman lathe calls for
>> SAE 10 weight for most of the lube and Keystone
>> 122 Outboard Gear Lube for the gears.  I assume
>> that I can use any 90w something gear lube for
>> the gears but what is the current equiv for SAE 10?
>> Is this 3-in-1 weight?  The lathe is in excellent
>> shape and I don't want to screw it up.
>> 
>> Dave

    Dave, I may be starting a flame war here, but I just have to say
this: 
        I don't think that I have ever seen a metal wear failure that I
could attribute simply to the wrong type of oil. Most of my experience
is with IC motors, trannys, and industrial machinery, but it does cover
a lot of years. I've seen many failures with NO oil, water in the oil,
dirt in the oil, and even a few with too heavy of an oil (this is like
no oil). But it has occurred to me lately that I have never seen a
failure where the oil was of even approximently the right type and
weight. By right type I mean vegetable vs mineral and by right weight I
mean viscosity. I don't have experience with extreme conditions of
speed, loading, or temperature....which would be things like gas
turbines and locomotives...but on common machinery I am beginning to
wonder if we are not over-concerned with lube specs. It may be that we
are out of date on our lube information. Modern oils have a tremendous
operating range. It seems to me that the old time very narrow
lubrication recommendations may need some revision.
        My advice is to get a good light weight oil - either spindle or
motor oil - clean the reservoir well, fill it up, and get on with the
fun. 
            Putting on my flame-proof suit -     Roger Loving          
     
         


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:43 EST 1996
Article: 44314 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 15:52:29 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58rpsr$29j6@top.MTS.Net>, Neil Poersch <npoersch@mts.net>
writes:

>Pardon my ignorance but what is JB Weld? Is it some sort of epoxy
compound?
>
>

It is the hard equivalent of duct tape. If you can't get it top stay fixed
with ducked tape then JB weld it. WalMart has it for about $6 in the Auto
section. It even machines well.

Peter



From tenter@voicenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:44 EST 1996
Article: 44315 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tenter@voicenet.com (Tom Enterline)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:04:18 GMT
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

>"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>
><snip>
>
>>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.
>
>>-- 
>>Steven O. Smith
>>steve@cc.com
>
>I have heard the same thing about MIG welding.  Most of my
>structural welding is on stuff that is easy to stick weld,
>so that is what I do.  The top rail on my arena fence
>though, used .068 NR211 and was that nice.  I had the BG
>Earnie was talking about all day!
>
>Fitch
>
IIRC according to AWS (American Welding Society) standards stick
welding is "pre-qualified", but MIG is not - I think that means you
have to show them you can make a good weld.

Tom


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:46 EST 1996
Article: 44316 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:50:14 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:



>What do you mean by basic lathe?  Please be a bit more specific.

>Also what metal of what thickness do you want to spin.  There is a great deal of 
>difference in spinning sterling silver of .4 mm thickness or 303 stainless of .8 mm 
>thickness for instance.

To be a little more "precise", a Sherline lathe. Material would be 24
gauge sterling. Form would be no larger than 3" dia. X 2.5" deep with
taper.

Normally I just raise this shape. But for the sake of duplicates and
time I would like to investigate the alternative method.

Jim Waggener



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:47 EST 1996
Article: 44317 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making your own flux for hard soldering
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:55:29 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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ranson@infoave.net (Ray) wrote:

>We start with Denatured Alchol about 4oz then add 2T of boric acid and 2T of 
>boraz. Put the liquid in a small glass bottle and loosely capit. Place in a 
>pan of water on the stove and heat to just below the boiling point. Stur the 
>liquid until the alachol is completely saturated. When finished there should 
>be some borax left in the bottom, if not you did'nt put enough in. So put some 
>more in and heat again.

>Next we make another flux with distiled water instead of alachol, using the 
>same process as above.

>We then dip the entire piece in the flux, set on the solder block and burn off 
>the alachol. Then only add a very small ammount of the water flux on the join.

>Ranson
>http://www.ro.com/av/gems

Then again. Couldn't you just save yourself a ton of time by just
buying some "Handy Flux"?  At $10 a lb it goes a long way.
Whats the advantage your way?

Jim Waggener



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:48 EST 1996
Article: 44318 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sheldon 13x34 lathe FS in NJ
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:58:00 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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thomas0297@aol.com (Thomas0297) wrote:

>I have a Sheldon 13x34 (approx) lathe I am interested in selling. It is
>mounted on a cabinet with drawers. 3phase (I have converter if needed)
>quick change gear box etc. Includes: carriage stop
>                     some collets with stand
>                     some dogs with plate
>                     3 jaw universal
>                     steady rest
>                     several tool holders
>                     many tool bits
>                     live center
>I had wanted to get $2500 for it.   Morton did a desk top apprasial and
>gave it a fair market value of $2250 which I would be willing to take. The
>lathe is in nice condition and I have pictures I could send via snail mail
>(I don't have a scanner)
>I anyone is interested, I am located in New jersey.   Have a good day   
>Tom
>My e-mail address is thomas0297@aol.com


Are you anywhere near Mt.Lakes and Booton?



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:49 EST 1996
Article: 44319 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:26:14 GMT
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In article <32b14019.1275005736@nntp.ix.netcom.com> Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox) writes:

>Somehow... not quite sure how, I convinced my wife that owning a small
>milling machine would reduce the amount of time I spend in front of my
>'puter... :) she bought it!
Very Lucky, I also was able to con (I mean ask) my wife for one...
>Soooo... guess what I'm getting for Christmas :))))))))

>Yup... I brand spankin new Sherline Milling machine :) the 'Deluxe
>Package' to be specific.

>Thus my question:

>I already have a Taig lathe and 'at least one of evertything' to go
>with it (literally). How much of this will be useful on the milling
>machine?

>Are the drawbars/collets equivelent?
no
>I know the spindle thread is the same
>Is the Taig fly cutter usable on the Sherline?
I'm sure, if it threads onto the spindle (I made my own out of a blank arbor)
>'T' bolts?
No, and this is where the taig is better than sherline, you have to turn down 
10-32 square nuts to fit the sherline t-slots, I made a arbor to hold the nuts 
for this.
>Boring head and bar?
If it screws on, it works...
>Thanks muchly in advance for any advice you all can give me.
start learning how to align  the work with the indicator!
also, you may want to buy a palmgren vise for the mill...
>Steve
>stz@garlic.com



From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:50 EST 1996
Article: 44320 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:27:56 GMT
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:06:04 GMT, reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY
(Reckless) wrote:

>Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>>I would like some opinions regarding the Econotig and the 250.  What I
>>have in mind is mostly sheet metal up to about 14 guage.....

<Reckless replies>
>I have a Lincoln Square-Wave 175 which I am happy with.  What capacity
>is the "Econotig"?  I would have liked the 350 amp model, but I don't
>have a big enough power panel and I didn't have that kind of money
>(paid $1400US for the 175).  Sheet metal will be very easy to weld,....

Hey Brian. Hey Reck.

I too bought the Lincoln Square-Wave after researching both; there are
two reasons, Brian, why you might want to consider the SQ175:

1.	The Econotig has two ranges of heat, and the foot pedal does not
continuously vary over that range, like the SQ does. On the EcTig the
pedal is just on & off; the power within the range is knob-set. On the
SQ, whatever MAX power you dial in, then the foot control is a
proportional controller over that range...lots more control, and
especially on the fly. One more thing, the lowest amp on the SQ is much
lower than the EcTig: min = 12A on SQ vrs. min = 20A on the EcTig.
THIS can be very important for thin SHEET METAL work. You can set max at
say 25A, start at 25A and immediately pedal down to say 18A. Nice.

2.	The SQ uses High Frequency arc stabilization, and so is considered
by pretty much any welder a better choice for aluminum work, especially
along with the continuous heat control you get along with. Really helps
with thermally high-conductive material like Alum. to be able to
gradually drop the heat input during the weld, as the assembly warms up.

The EconoTigs ARE good units, and widely used; it appears the Lincoln is
just a next generation product that for the moment has it over the
Miller by a tad.

Garfield

P.S. Nope, no connection to nothin; don't even own stock in Lincoln. 8)


From p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu Tue Dec 17 14:23:51 EST 1996
Article: 44321 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 18:48:42 GMT
Organization: Staff - College of Agriculture
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lwc1220@aol.com wrote:

I agree that burning of any hydrocarbon releases carbon dioxide and
water vapor.

Here's my question:

If (as others have posted) it's OK to run propane through an acetylene
regulator, how come the welding supply outfits sell separate
regulators for the two? I've been thinking of making a change in fuel
gas for a while now, and this question's been bothering me.

Phil Crome



From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:53 EST 1996
Article: 44322 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:46:15 GMT
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On Fri, 13 Dec 1996 19:02:45 -0800, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>cstep@composit.ultranet.com (Chris Stepanian) wrote:
>
>>I am interested in buying a TIG welder for use in welding some 
>>thin aluminum and steel tubing, specifically for bike frames.  
>>I've used TIG equipment before and am familiar with the
>>techniques; my specific question is whether it is possible
>>to run a small TIG machine like the Miller EconoTIG from
>>my household dryer plug (220V, 50 A).  
>
>Check your breaker panel. More than likely your dryer circuit is a 30
>amp circuit even though the plug may be rated higher.
>
>>The metals are 
>>not thick; steel about .030 or so and the aluminum maxing
>>out at .25 in. for some of the pieces and .060 for most of them.
>
>The Econo Tig will NOT be powerfull enough to work with 0.25 aluminum
>no matter how much juice comes out of your dryer plug.

I shall chime in along with Jens (not that he needs any chimes, heh).

My dryer plug was run with same wire and breaker size as my stove, and
IS 50A just like Chris. With my Lincoln SQ175, OR my Millermatic 250
Mig, I can run steel continuously with NO problem. When I do smaller
assemblies of 1/4 Alum plate (with the SQ only, of course), I am only
using max amps for a bit at the start and then pedal down to control the
puddle expansion as the thing heats up, and AM able to weld using this
technique, but it's gotta be right on the hairy edge (not of the SQ, but
the breaker). I CAN pop the breaker if I dial in high amps and try to
run a bead on the surface of a BIG piece of plate alum where I have to
keep the heat on for a long time, but that goes without saying. If you
are only doing runs of less than say 2", on smallish assemblies that are
going to come up to heat fast, I think you'll be fine. Any of the Alum
tubing stuff you would be fine. The SQ is especially good on alum tube,
given it's continuous pedal control. You can control the heat on the
fly.

I would guess that the problem Jens saw with the EconoTig has more to do
with the arc stabilization (it uses High Voltage Spike technology, not
High Frequency like the SQ); OTOH, I do know folks do Alum with the
EcTig, so I dunno for sure what the problem might be.

Garfield


From geoffben@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:55 EST 1996
Article: 44323 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: geoffben@primenet.com (geoff beneze)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking
Subject: Re: $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
Date: 14 Dec 1996 11:33:02 -0700
Organization: BEAST Enterprises
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In article <32B2B05D.6EE9@themall.net>, James & Angela Penrose
<j7610154@themall.net> wrote:

> Mike wrote:
> > 
> > Very sorry! I meant to post sender only. 
>  
> Much more useful to post to the sender's postmaster.  Pyramid schemes are 
> not only rude and inappropriate to the net, they're also illegal.

Post to both "Postmaster" and "abuse".
-- 
geoff beneze (geoffben@primenet.com)
NRA Life member
********************************************      
Arizona Shooting Sports --  http://www.primenet.com/~geoffben
BEAST Gunsmithing  -- Target Stands
The unofficial Dillon Tech Page


From gerrymcl@teleport.com Tue Dec 17 14:23:56 EST 1996
Article: 44324 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Gerry McLaughlin" <gerrymcl@teleport.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: hole saw arbor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 06:05:22 GMT
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
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The saw should not be tight against the flange. If it was tight, when you
were done cutting
your hole, the saw would be V E R Y tight! Hard to remove etc. etc.
We use these things at work to drill holes in Luminaire poles. Sometimes
guys don't engage the
drive pins. End up messing the whole thing up in a vice trying to remove
the saw later.
Hope this helps.

Rooster <rooster@iglou.com> wrote in article <E2Dzvq.9Hv@iglou.com>...
> this is confusing to explain, but if you screw the saw all the way down
to
> the flange, the drive pins don't line up.  If you loosten the saw 1/4-1/3
> turn, the pins line up, but now the saw is a bit loose.
> 
> is there a way to have the saw tight against the flange AND engage the
> drive pins?
> 
>
> 


From dlowie@ipass.net Tue Dec 17 14:23:58 EST 1996
Article: 44325 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dlowie <dlowie@ipass.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,alt.machines.cnc,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: pistol grips
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 13:33:57 -0800
Organization: IPass.net
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I'm looking for a machine drawing of the handle on a Ruger Blackhawk. I
need to make a new set of grips that fit my hand. For me the hard part
is the wood to metal fit rather than carving them to fit my hand. I plan
to make the wood to metal cuts on a Bridgeport CNC mill so G code would
be helpful also. If you can help then email me at <dlowie@ipass.net>.
Thanks in advance, Dwight Lowie


From JSTANGE@LL.NET Tue Dec 17 14:24:02 EST 1996
Article: 44326 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 11:41:05 -0600
From: JSTANGE@LL.NET
Subject: Need cmm controller
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850584772.20840@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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I'm trying to build a coordinate measurment machine using my
pc. It will be built like a bridge type cnc router but will be
move by my hands. Does anyone know were to get information on 
the controller card, encoders,and what ever else I need?
Is there any products that would allow a pc to act as a DRO
off my bridgeport??
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:03 EST 1996
Article: 44327 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
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Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 00:32:33 GMT
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zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:

>If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
>then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
>your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
>your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
>you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!

Gee, I wonder how all those great cathedrals got built?
weren't there "craftsmen" building those things?



From gemcutter@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:05 EST 1996
Article: 44328 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Stone Settings, Cabachone Mountings?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:00:00 -0500
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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BeadmanC wrote:
> 
> Besides Fire Mountain Gems and River Gems, does anyone have a source for a
> wide variety of mountings they don't mind sharing with me?
> 
> Thanks a bunch,
> Deborah

Try Tripps Mfg.   1-800-545-7962
You might also subscribe to the Lapidary Journal. You would find many 
more findings companies in there.


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:06 EST 1996
Article: 44329 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: EMCO CNC LATHE PICTURE
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:48:27 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
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greetings 

i have a jpeg of the EMCO compact 5 cnc lathe
it is at the following location

http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/emco2.jpg

regards
ap


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:07 EST 1996
Article: 44330 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 12:11:28 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <19961214083800.DAA15600@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bsimon1234@aol.com (BSimon1234) wrote:

>I would like to know if anyone else has tried out the model 500 or 750
>Drill Doctor sharpened by Darex.
>
>Anything good or bad to say?

good unit for the price... some problems most covered and corected here...
If you search DejaNews (esp the sept /oct time frame when many of us got
one  you will find several reviews/problems and fixes...

for those of us who got in on the free wheel deal a few thoughts on using
it:

BTW I just got my free spare Diamond wheel from Darax (thanks Mr. anderson
Merry Xmas to you too) and I have been thinking of mounting it on an arbor
and turning it at slow speed (on the lathe or mill) to get a Glendo
Acugrind effect... for touching up Carbide inserts when they chip (for a
lot of use they dont have to be indexable so loosing the exact center to
cutting edge comonality is no big deal) small tilting table in the lathe
tool holder and speed about 300 rpm...

also a bit more thinking on a related subject... Low speed grinding with
diamond wheels... someone mentioned a cheap source for the aprox 6" flat
diamond plates (and ceramic laps charged withthe diamond slurry) as a
jewelery supply house... the one I tryed (rio) was just as expensive as
Glendo... but if you could get these for a reasonable price mounting them
on a lathe with a simple home made tilt table clamped to the ways would be
a very cheap way to get the full effect of the $700 glendo acugrind... does
anyone know exactly the speed to run these slow soeed diamond wheels at> I
am guessing 300 to 400 rpm...

I will prob just make an adapter so that I can mount one of low speed
diamond laps to (when I find one cheap)  by baldor carbide grinder to try
this out as it already has a 3 phase motor and I run it (and all my 3 phase
tools) through the Mutsibishi Freqrol... hence I can just command the speed
for it spin but for folks who don't want to go to the trouble of making a
slow speed grinder from scratch making a mounting plat to fit their lathe
and making a quick table that will hit close to the wheel just above the
middle (as seen in the glendo adds) should be a doddle... if any one does
the lathe method let us know please... perhaps I sould try it my self and
write it up for the tips section of HSM or MEW?

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:08 EST 1996
Article: 44331 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!newsserver.jvnc.net!newsserver2.jvnc.net!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 12:11:30 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 62
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References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com> <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com> <AED715129668B0FA8@ppp16.nantucket.net> <32B1B039.2544@hre.com>
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In article <32B1B039.2544@hre.com>,
Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

>Randolph Lee wrote:
>> 
>> In article <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com>,
>> Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
>> 
>> >In a fit of depression for having led the flock astray with the
>> >infamous "Spaceship" aluminum Prank, a single shot rang out from the
>> >depths of Harvey Racing Engines! Upon further examination, it was
>> >determined that Jim Had left a bottle of Diet Pepsi too close
>> >to the Jet heater..........You did'nt think I was gonna KILL
>> >MYSELF Over it didja?
>> >
>> >Jim "Deadeye" Harvey
>> 
>> I am shocked that a Firm the I thought respectable would have Diet Pepsi
>> on the premises... how do you expect to do quality work (either Computer or
>> machine shop) without Jolt Cola... or at a pinch Mountian Dew...
>> 
>> Awaiting word that the Pepsi in question was left by a visiting salesman
>> (in a lesiure suit and matching white plastic shoes and belt no doubt) to
>> restore my  confidance in Harvey inc.
>> 
>> Randolph Lee
>> Windshadow Engineering
>I must confess here before my fellow rcm'ers that I indeed am guilty of 
>drinking the heretical Diet Pepsi. It is a holdover from my dissapated 
>youth when cravings were not resisted and debauchery ran rampant. 
>As a saving grace, however, I can readily admit to drinking Deli Coffee 
>that has sat on the table of the Bridgeport for more than a day. This 
>alone, should buy me some absolution.
>
>Jim"Penitent" Harvey

"Absolved"! Kachung! (well only if the Deli coffee was no better than 
grade III joe (one step up from  coffee pot cleaner and 2 steps up from
carbon
 remover) that sat in the pot all night boiling down ,to start with....
none 
of that "Mocha Hazelnut" trebbel frothed yuppie stuff allowed) Coffee that 
can double as paint remover should have been in the approved list above, as
should 
certain grades of 'char' (tea in the americas) I have been given in UK
machineshops

the approved list now stands at:
Jolt Cola
Mountain Dew
Very Strong Coffee
Verry strong Tea

any additions?

~R (self appointed arbeter and keeper of standards of what is propper to
drink in a shop)(VBG)



Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:09 EST 1996
Article: 44332 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 12:11:31 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 57
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References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> <58s9lq$1hvi@news.doit.wisc.edu>
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In article <58s9lq$1hvi@news.doit.wisc.edu>,
Don Holly <dholly@psl.wisc.edu> wrote:

>"David A. Holly" <dholly@erols.com> wrote:
>
>> I read, in Beeman's Airgun Digest, that
>>some of the old bellows type air rifles were powerful enough to hunt elk
>>with.  I think that a modern version of a bellows gun, with the bellows 
>
>What's a bellows type air rifle? 

beats me... I have a vision of a gun with a blacksmiths bellows attached!

>While I know people used to make air rifles which were used in
>hunting, I thought they were still very low-powered compared to
>firearms. Not true?

Well, orignal sources state that the high power large bore weapons of
the late 18th and early 19th cent. were as powerful as the blackpowder
arms of the time... The french gave orders to kill on the spot any
captured austrians armed with Giradoni multi shot sniper air guns. these
were 
pumped up (the air res. was I think in the butt on these sniper rifles 
and had enought pressure for 7 to 10 shots at full power,extra screw 
on butstocks were carried by each sniper while the 
sporting arms used a screw on globe at a much lower pressure good 
for 3 or 5 shots... extra charged globes were carried when hunting)

good material on this topic is hard to come by as development into
high power air guns basicly stopped with the introduction of effective
repeating cartridge arms, smokeless powder, and the invention of 
silencers (the 2 main reasons for making these exceedling expensive, 
complex, and unreliable high power large bore air guns being fast 
repeating action and relitive quiet and lack of discharge smoke to 
reveal your position). allmost all further work being channeled into making
either cheap toy air guns, or expensive tackdrivers.

A gentelman in Missouri who is a machinist  is planning to build 
 replicas of the Giradoni and has already built a ledge lock 
large bore in .45.  On top of which he has a "mass produced" .375 cal Co2 
gun which he says will do about 130 ft-lbs, His Name is  
Dennis Quackenbush  he makes several large bore guns
of his own design as well as a  the above replica of the Giradoni.
His phone number is (417) 993-5262.  no further info yet.

I have had too much on my plate and have given this topic a place about
midway 
on my 'future projects list' at my current speed for doing for fun
machining
Projects (the damm for pay job stuff takes too much of my shop time...
but it does pay for some nice tous allong the wayI should get to it about
may of 2003

~R

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:11 EST 1996
Article: 44333 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 22:59:18 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
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In article <58sca5$s8j@nw101.infi.net>, creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim
Waggener) wrote:

> Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> >What do you mean by basic lathe?  Please be a bit more specific.
> 
> >Also what metal of what thickness do you want to spin.  There is a
great deal of 
> >difference in spinning sterling silver of .4 mm thickness or 303
stainless of .8 mm 
> >thickness for instance.
> 
> To be a little more "precise", a Sherline lathe. Material would be 24
> gauge sterling. Form would be no larger than 3" dia. X 2.5" deep with
> taper.
> 
> Normally I just raise this shape. But for the sake of duplicates and
> time I would like to investigate the alternative method.


 If you have an actual metal lathe , spinning is easy.
I recently made 2 chandeliers and hjhad to make custom wax-cups and
ceiling medaliions for both.
I glued up a stack of MDF circles , and mounted the stack on a 6" bolt
plate on my cheasy craftsman wood lathe.
I then spun the block down to the profile I wanted.
I welded a 3/4 in. dia. ball bearing to a 6 in. length of 3/8 in steel bar
and mounted that in a lathe tool handle.
I cut a disc of 24 ga copper and annealed it by heating it till the oxides
burn off then plunging it into cold water.
with a tiny hole at the center I pinched the disc against the form with
the tailstock live center.
Bringing it up to speed I smeared it with a layer of cutting grease stick.
You can also use ivory soap or beeswax.
With it spinning push the metal against the form with the tip of the tool
. Start at the center and slowly work your way out towards the edge.
The main thing is to apply even, steady, and heavy force. once the metal
stops moving easily, pull it off and re-anneal it. For my 10 inch diameter
cieling medalions I had to anneal each piece about 10 times, but they came
out great. Once you get it to the rough shape you want go ahead and clean
it up on the lathe with a scraper, sandpaper, and scotchbrite. 
The hardest part is rolling over a sharp corner. This takes several passes
and a lot of force and care to keep it from buckling and developing
ripples.
I was amazed that my cheap little craftsman wood lathe could handle this task.
The only spinning experience I had before this was watching a guy at an
ABANA conf. two and a half years ago.
The guy made it look so easy that when the need arose, I had to give it a try.
It worked great and was a lot of fun. I highly recommend it if just for the fun.

Soon I'll have an old 1940's LeBlond lathe to work on . That should be a
real spinner.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From gshaffer@weir.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:12 EST 1996
Article: 44334 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gshaffer <gshaffer@weir.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 03:51:23 -0500
Organization: Weirnet - Internet Provider to the Ohio Valley
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Anne Carey wrote:
> 
> In article <32AAECAB.4EFC@ipass.net>, stardust@ipass.net wrote:
> 
> > No offense meant but most people who have access to a computer have
> > access to both a Bible (there are such areas online even) and a church..
> > posting this sort of message on every base is spamming.. and one massage
>                                                                ~~~~~~~~~~~
> > from you will NOT save my soul..last I heard that was between a person
> > and God..
> 
> I don't know...depends on how good the massage is.... :D
> 
> Annie

I wish Christian zealots would get a life somewhere else.

          Gary Shaffer



From james.askew@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:13 EST 1996
Article: 44335 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!engr.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!ddsw1!news.mcs.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: James Askew <james.askew@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 20:29:33 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 34
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VAntonova wrote:
> 
> >Hey Vantanova, what was the outcome of this? I for one would be
> interested
> >to know, providing you are still alive and not electocuted as a result.
> >Probably still like to know then.
> I had four problems: the motor was too weak, no cooling for the
> compressor, the pressure switch was between the compressor and the
> receiver, before the check valve, and it was the wrong kind of pressure
> switch. After fixing all of this, I ended up paying a total of $120, and
> had a 10HP 80 gallon two stage compressor delivering about 15-20CFM at
> 150PSI. When I opened the compressor it was in great condition! Either it
> was new or newly honed and rebuilt. I could see clear hone-marks on the
> cylinder walls and the valves were brand new. The downside was that I
> spent a total of at least 40 hours, mostly between 10PM to 5AM, set a pile
> of greasy newspaper on fire, reseived a nasty electrical burn, and the
> flywheel almost flew out!!! By the way, the place I bought this is the
> gratest store imaginable (it's not really a store, it's a big repair
> shop)! Here are some of the best deals:
> 20HP 3 phase motor $25
> 10HP 1 phase motor $35 (true 10HP)
> 200A mig welder, slightly rusty, free shpping $45
> Superior Electric NC controller with 3 servos FREE
> 5'x25' (that's FEET) lathe $500 (Not even rusty; too big for my garage :-(
> the compressor, 4 regulators, 100' hose, 80 gallon tank $40
> 8" divining head, great condition $50
> Unfortunately, a new owner took over and the prices went up. :-(
> Man, do I wish there were more places like this!!

Oh man I would like to have that "divining head" ....  I have
never seen one but maybe with it I could find that drive pin I lost
in the shop somewhere.

Jim


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:14 EST 1996
Article: 44336 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: oops!!
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:16:19 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 21
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oops!!!

in case someone missed the previous post regarding this


for sale
EMCO compact 5 cnc lathe with built in cnc control
5" x 12" capacity
3-jaw chuck
14pc collet set w/adapter
8 toolblocks
5 carbide insert turning tools

this machine is virtually unused
ran only a few times
as near to new as you can get

price $4,950.00

andy popky
516 385 9452


From dfe@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:15 EST 1996
Article: 44337 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Dan F Evans <dfe@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 13:03:10 -0700
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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diallist@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've just discovered this newsgroup tonight.  It seems to be
> full of nice, knowledgeable people.  It also seems to have a
> good "signal to noise" ratio (good info vs. spam).
> 
> This is the first time I've ever tried posting to a
> newsgroup so I hope this works.
> 
> My interest is sundials.  Of late, I have been wanting to
> make a brass sundial and engrave it by hand.  Unfortunately,
> I haven't had much success in finding out about the
> different kinds of brass or which types of brass are most
> suitable for hand engraving.  I'm also hoping someone in
> this newsgroup can provide me with a source of books,
> cassettes or videos that teach engraving.  Also, a supplier
> of hand engraving tools would be nice to hear about as well.
> 
> Thanks for taking time to read this and thanks especially
> for any and all replys I may receive.
> 
> Charles

Consider chemical etching for this too.  This is done by coating the
brass with a waterproof resist, and scraping it away where you want the
pattern.  The brass is then soaked in a ferric chloride solution to etch
the pattern.  

If you use a photo resist, you can make reusable patterns that aren't
limited by the constraint of engraving tools. It isn't as expensive as
you might think.  

There are a few web sites that describe this.  Here's one:

http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html


From dakeltie@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:16 EST 1996
Article: 44338 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: dakeltie@ix.netcom.com(Dale A. Keltie )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 14 Dec 1996 20:09:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 23
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Dec 14  2:09:16 PM CST 1996

In <19961213002500.TAA20839@ladder01.news.aol.com> vantonova@aol.com
(VAntonova) writes: 
>
>For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some
material with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance
and that can withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F.
<snip>

Alex -

You might want to check out a material called 'Macor', a machinable
ceramic manufactured by Corning.  Continuous operating temp. close to
1500 deg. (F).  It's expensive to be sure; a 1" dia. x 3" long piece of
the stuff is about $55.00 for example.  

Wesgo/Duramic has the stuff ($100.00 min. order)
26 Madison Rd.
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Tel: 201-227-8877
Fax: 201-227-7135

Regards,
Dale


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:17 EST 1996
Article: 44339 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:02:43 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 30
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Randolph Lee wrote:
....snip....  
> "Absolved"! Kachung! (well only if the Deli coffee was no better than
> grade III joe (one step up from  coffee pot cleaner and 2 steps up from
> carbon
>  remover) that sat in the pot all night boiling down ,to start with....
> none
> of that "Mocha Hazelnut" trebbel frothed yuppie stuff allowed) Coffee that
> can double as paint remover should have been in the approved list above, as
> should
> certain grades of 'char' (tea in the americas) I have been given in UK
> machineshopsAnyone caught at Harvey Racing Engines drinking Anything that is called 

Cafe, Latte, Mocha etc is taken out back and Horsewhipped.

 
> the approved list now stands at:
> Jolt Cola
> Mountain Dew
> Very Strong Coffee
> Verry strong Tea
> 
> any additions?

Straight Tonic Water (schweppes for the Schweppervesscence naturally)

Jim " Oh to have met Commander Whitehead" Harvey
bubbles!@hre.com
http://hre.com



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:19 EST 1996
Article: 44340 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 00:08:31 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32b45a47.57041205@news.islandnet.com>
References: <58tksf$2db@news-central.tiac.net> <32b314eb.39285106@news.islandnet.com> <32bfe3c4.105127425@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:


>My dryer plug was run with same wire and breaker size as my stove, and
>IS 50A just like Chris.

Interesting ... up here (BC, Canada) the electrical code calls for a
30 amp breaker ... oh well different ruling bodies I guess.

>I would guess that the problem Jens saw with the EconoTig has more to do
>with the arc stabilization (it uses High Voltage Spike technology, not
>High Frequency like the SQ); OTOH, I do know folks do Alum with the
>EcTig, so I dunno for sure what the problem might be.

I was considering to purchase the Econo Tig at one time. The
demonstration I was referring to happened at the dealer and he was
trying to weld two small pieces of AL together. He would sit over one
area for what seems like an eternity and produce what seemed like a
cold weld at the end. I was utterly amazed on how poorly this thing
welded that itty bitty piece of aluminum. Now granted, I am used to a
Miller 250A mig and do mostly steel so everything proceeds just about
as fast as I can accurately go and I might have been influenced by
that but the overall impression I got from the EcoTig was that it is a
cute little unit/toy that is great for thin stuff and even a little
bigger stuff in steel but is useless with heavier aluminum. Needless
to say I passed on it and if I ever win in the lottery I will get
myself a Lincoln Square Wave 255.

My 0.00002c worth ...

Jens


From Tony.Midea@moa.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:20 EST 1996
Article: 44341 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!chaos.crhc.uiuc.edu!news2.acs.oakland.edu!ppp-pm05-dy-11.ouhub.moa.net
From: Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 16:42:23 -0800
Organization: RO Schools
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32B3496F.661B@moa.net>
References: <32b14019.1275005736@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
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Paradox wrote:
> 
> Somehow... not quite sure how, I convinced my wife that owning a small
> milling machine would reduce the amount of time I spend in front of my
> 'puter... :) she bought it!
> 
> Soooo... guess what I'm getting for Christmas :))))))))
> 
> Yup... I brand spankin new Sherline Milling machine :) the 'Deluxe
> Package' to be specific.
> 
> Thus my question:
> 
> I already have a Taig lathe and 'at least one of evertything' to go
> with it (literally). How much of this will be useful on the milling
> machine?
> 
> Are the drawbars/collets equivelent?
> I know the spindle thread is the same
> Is the Taig fly cutter usable on the Sherline?
> 'T' bolts?
> Boring head and bar?
> 
> Thanks muchly in advance for any advice you all can give me.
> 
> Steve
> stz@garlic.com


I need to know this guys secret..
Tony
:-)


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:21 EST 1996
Article: 44342 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!engr.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building Tools..
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 23:00:56 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <32B24298.235@cyberhighway.net>
References: <58t7s4$ika@lori.albany.net>
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To: Randall Semeiks <semeiks2@albany.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------2148325A6158
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Randall Semeiks wrote:
> 
> Has anybody built the machine tools from the "Build your own Metal
> Working Shop from Scrap" series by Dave Gingery offered by Lindsay
> Publications?  I have these books but have not started construction
> yet.  I was wondering how difficult they actually are to build.  And
> if anybody else has seen these books, what is your opinion on them?

Haven't tried any YET...  The books sure make GREAT reading.  Doubt that
I will be able to pour metal, given my location.  BUT--(see attached)..

I did see a Gingery (type?) shaper runnning powered with a hit'n'miss
engine at the Jerome AZ engine show last spring.  Chips alll over the
place.
Sure seemed to do the job.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------2148325A6158
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="OZARK PRECISION.txt"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="OZARK PRECISION.txt"

OZARK PRECISION COMPONENTS
P.O. BOX 1100
MOUNTAIN VIEW AR  72560
1-501-269-2770

Offering castings for Dave Gingery's projects.  

Lathe castings        $175
with ground flats     $250


Shaper castings       $175
with ground flats     $250

Mill castings         $175
with ground flats     $250

Drill Press castings  $175

Saw a Gingery type shaper in May-powered by a hit-n-miss engine-at a show in
Jerome AZ.  It sure made chips fly.

			

--------------2148325A6158--



From erich10983@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:23 EST 1996
Article: 44343 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: erich10983@aol.com (ERich10983)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe thread standards?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 21:52:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
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1/8 inch diameter fittings may be 10-32 thread.  Some of these have a
built in O'ring to do the sealing, so don't need a tapered thread with
teflon tape.  Try threading a nut on this.  That will tell you.  Clippard
is a good source for these fittings.

Earle Rich
Mont Vernon, NH


From fox@oro.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:25 EST 1996
Article: 44344 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.bc.net!news.mindlink.net!van-bc!uniserve!oronet!usenet
From: fox@oro.net (Andrew Keyser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Buying an Older Lathe: How Does One Learn?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:07:52 GMT
Organization: "oronet, Penn Valley, CA"
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I'm about to buy a turret lathe, smaller sized, used, non-CNC.

Is there a source that lists the specs for the various brand names of
older lathes? I've found a few possibilities within 4 hours drive of
my town, all from different dealers:

Logan "Hardinge-style" variable speed
Rathbone "11 in. swing"
Warner-Swasey #2
Monarch 10" Chucker Model EC
Warner-Swasey #1 AC Chucker

How do you experts know what all the brands are, what brands still
have parts available for them, what brands are most reputable? With
really good data, I'd be able to identify the year of manufacture from
the model number or possibly serial number when I see the lathe in
person. Is there a source with such detailed information?

Many many thanks,

Jon C. Fox
fox@oro.net

"The first thing you have to do to make a dream come true is wake up."



From davie651@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:26 EST 1996
Article: 44345 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob <davie651@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 05:09:25 -0800
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Tim Robinson wrote:
> 
> In article <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>,
>    zoner@goodnet.com (Saved Soul) wrote:
> >If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> >then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> >your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> >your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> >you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
> 
> You don't save people by irritating the Hell out of them.
> 
> | Tim Robinson                   | Lonely Web page.  Please visit.   |
> | timtroyr@ionet.net             | http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr    |
> | "The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by |
> | men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding."  L. Brandeis |
> 
> Sorry about the bogus e-mail address.  I get too much e-mail spam.
> Just use the one in the sig.  Brewers, check out
> http://www.ionet.net/~timtroyr/beer
After tasting this last batch of bitter ale, I realize, there must be a
god.


From beckeng@sprynet.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:27 EST 1996
Article: 44346 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!LOCALNAME
From: beckeng@sprynet.com (JD)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 19:21:29 GMT
Organization: Sprynet News Service
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <58v94f$4ig@juliana.sprynet.com>
References: <58rsir$7lp@starlifter.us.dell.com> <19961214155200.KAA24919@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hd24-248.compuserve.com
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <19961214155200.KAA24919@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
   pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>In article <58rsir$7lp@starlifter.us.dell.com>, edward@locutus.us.dell.com
>(Edward Godwin) writes:
>
>>|> I'm beginning to think these guys just use JB weld!  Doesn't anyone
>>|> in the whole world wide web know how this process works?  Do we need
>to
>>|> hire an undercover agent to find out how it is done?
>>|> Clint
>>
>>I would settle with finding one of these guys.  I have some cast iron
>parts
>>that need repair.  If they guarantee their work, why not give it a try?
>>
>>I hope that the original poster(s) to this thread, or someone who has had
>>recent contact with one of these individuals will post some contact
>>information.
>>
>>
>
>The orignal post regarded an exhaust manifold, I am not so sure how JB
>would stand the heat. Go slowly slowly.
>
>Peter
>

I guy I used to know bought a car from a dealer once. After a few months,
it died. After dis-assembly, it appeared the heads were Cold Welded with
JB weld. No, it doesn't stand up. Of course, on the package there is the 
guy who repaired a $50,000 cat engine block with it, so what do I know.



From Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:24:28 EST 1996
Article: 44347 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!iw63.demon.co.uk!Ian
From: "Ian W. Wright" <Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:43:17 +0000
Organization: watchman
Lines: 60
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <43Nn7AA19xsyEwkp@iw63.demon.co.uk>
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 <32b1cb54.0@news.pinc.com>
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>Jim Waggener wrote:
>> 
>> Can you spin metal on a basic lathe? 

I've only ever done a few spun articles on my Boxford lathe (but all
successful) and have used the methods of other correspondents but I'd
like to share with you my amazement at the spinning skills I saw a few
years ago in a pewter tankard makers workshop. At the time I was the
building surveyor in charge of maintenance of a number of multi-tenanted
old factories and I must admit, the time I took to do my job was out of
all proportion to the time it should have taken because every workshop
had a different fascination. The one I am concerned with here was on the
first floor of an old cutlery factory (ex. Joseph Rogers and now alas
demolished). Here, in two relatively small rooms was a company
employing, I think, three people which made a whole range of pewter
tankards, many of which were for export. In one of the rooms - the
larger and probably about 20ft x 15ft, all the main production was done
of the normal, straight sided tankards which were made of sheet, wrapped
round a former, the joint soldered by holding the job in the hand
against a gas flame and applying the solder, then they were stood on a
spun base on a turntable and soldered on. A cast handle and top ring
were also soldered on and the job was boxed and packed in the same room.
In the adjoining room which was an odd kind of wedge shape and little
bigger than a cupboard was the man who cast the handles by pouring
molten pewter from a heated pot using a hand ladle into a two part
plaster or wood mould held in his other hand. He let the pewter cool a
little and then poured out the excess just at the right time to leave a
standard thickness shell - no timing device, just years of experience
and every one the same weight so as to be strong enough but not to waste
material and so increase the cost! Also in here, tucked in a dark corner
was the spinner. He had an old, flat belt drive spinning lathe - just a
basic headstock and a substantial bar with two vertical pegs fixed onto
the bed. Here was produced magic!! He took a basic open ended cone of
pewter sheet (soldered up next door) and fixed it in a simple wooden
chuck - a wood disk fixed to a backplate with a jam ring over the
outside (can't remember if the ring was wood or iron) Then, totally
unsupported by any other means and using only 2 tools - bent steel rods
with rounded polished ends in long handles - he proceeded to turn this
dull looking cone into a beautiful shiny baluster shaped Georgian
tankard body with a spun over top rim. This took him less than a minute
and, although no measuring was done whilst he worked, you could line
them up on the bench and not be able to see any difference between them.
They then had a spun base with a central glass disk and a fancy handle
soldered on and were snapped up by the high class gift shops. This was
real craftsmanship and I often wonder if he or many of the other highly
skilled but undervalued craftsmen I have come across are still working
their magic.
FWIW

Ian

-- 

Ian W. Wright LBHI
Elected National Council Member and Sheffield Branch Chairman of the British
Horological Institute. 
Bandmaster of the Hathersage Brass Band.
See our homepage at:- http://www.GeoCities.com/Hollywood/6067/index.html

'Music is the filling of regular time intervals with harmonious oscillations.'


From kpinkert@super.zippo.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:30 EST 1996
Article: 44348 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!szdc-e!news
From: kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:39:31 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <32b2c9fa.12661549@snews2.zippo.com>
References: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <58uh1h$rh1@sjx-ixn9.ix.netcom.com>
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On 14 Dec 1996 15:27:45 GMT, rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
wrote:

>In <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert
>Lorenz) writes: 
>>
>>Just received my Darex Drill Dr. and sharpened about 30 drills and 
>>drilled a few holes, works great!!!!
>>
>    I haven't seen one of these. Can you tell a little more about it?
>                                            Roger L.

Go to http://www.drilldr.com/ and see/read all about it. I have been
thinking about getting one myself, but would like to hear some more
comments before I shell out the dough.

Kevin


From gagemaker@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:31 EST 1996
Article: 44349 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: gagemaker@aol.com (Gagemaker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pipe thread standards?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 23:44:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <19961214234300.SAA08949@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <58u9ul$3gt@news.proaxis.com>
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X-Admin: news@aol.com

Yes, BSPP is a standard. It uses a 55 degree included angle for the thread
form. If you would like specs, send me an E-mail.
                                               Steve Walker
                                               Hemco Gage
Steve Walker
gagemaker@aol.com
 "It's up to those who can to help those who can't."


From kpinkert@super.zippo.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:33 EST 1996
Article: 44350 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!arclight.uoregon.edu!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!news
From: kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:55:59 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32b2e96f.20715930@snews.zippo.com>
References: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <19961214083800.DAA15600@ladder01.news.aol.com> <AED849F096687B614@ppp8.nantucket.net>
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 12:11:28 -0400, r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph
Lee) wrote:

>In article <19961214083800.DAA15600@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>bsimon1234@aol.com (BSimon1234) wrote:
>
>>I would like to know if anyone else has tried out the model 500 or 750
>>Drill Doctor sharpened by Darex.
>>
>>Anything good or bad to say?
>
>good unit for the price... some problems most covered and corected here...
>If you search DejaNews (esp the sept /oct time frame when many of us got
>one  you will find several reviews/problems and fixes...

Thanks, I took a look and found about 100 articles. Seemed to be an
initial problem with alignment on 3/8 and smaller bits and with the
amount of relief. Has these problems been corrected to everyone's
satisfaction?


From Davo147@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:34 EST 1996
Article: 44351 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Davoman <Davo147@aol.com>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:30:28 -1000
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From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:36 EST 1996
Article: 44352 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:00:45 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

>Hi everyone.

>I have some questions on boring holes and on sherline carbide insert tools.

Chuck,

I have never used any of the Sherline tools but would offer
the following from my own experience.

In general, use the biggest boring bar you can get in the
hole in a practical usable sense.  Bigger is stiffer.  So is
shorter.  

I have had better luck with carbide insert types of tools in
my 12 X 36 lathe that weighs about 1,100 pounds than in my
South Bend 9" that weighs maybe half of that.  I believe the
difference is the increased stiffness of the bigger lathe.  

I've had relatively good luck boring things with ground HSS
bits in rather inexpensive commercial boring bars with
square holes in them.   

I did some line boring recently when I was having trouble
getting the conventional held on one end bar to work well -
it was a 5/8" through hole that had to be about 3" long.  I
don't own any reamers (yet), so I arranged the bar between
centers on the SB lathe with the work mounted on the "T"
slotted cross slide and bored it that way.  I set the bit by
removing the bar from the lathe so that I could get at it
easily on the bench.  

After the first pass, I carefully measured the hole, and
measured the bar setting with a micrometer (the bit did not
protrude through the back of the bar so I had a good
reference for the micrometer).  I then carefully set the bar
and used the micrometer to measure the incremental
increases.  I kept a log of my progress and was able to get
the finished bore within about .0005 in dia and .0002 end to
end.  

I used a home made 7/16 diameter boring bar with a cutter
ground from an old center drill.  I locked it in place by
grinding a flat on the shank and using a set screw.

A line boring approach like this might work in your
situation if you have enough room (and it isn't a blind
hole).  Holding the bar at both ends is much more rigid than
holding it at only one end.

It took a while.  I had to make the bar, grind the bit, etc.
but the result was quite satisfactory.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:37 EST 1996
Article: 44353 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:00:53 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:

>In article <32b0b0a7.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com wrote:

>> donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:
>> 
>> <snip>
>> 
>> >Did I stumble into alt.flame.os.war? 
>> 
>> No.
>> 
>> Fitch

>Sorry, I'll be good ;)

Me too. :-)

Fitch



From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:38 EST 1996
Article: 44354 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Virtual Model Exhibition! - any interest?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 18:27:09 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
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Great idea. I suggested a couple weeks ago  that we try to do some kind of 
live net connection from the North American Model Engineering Show,  NAMES- 
April 26,27 1997.

We may also make a feeble attempt at something on February 15, 1997 at teh 
first New England MES. We will be holding that at teh Charles River Museum of 
Industry, and they have a web server on site and have done a live web hookup 
for their innovation Expo last year. 


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:40 EST 1996
Article: 44355 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:00:39 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 42
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Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>One example I can
>give is welding new balls on the spindle arms of my Model A.  This is
>about a 5/8 ball welded onto a 7/16 perch.  I have already paid to have
>this done, but that is an example.  

It pays big dividends to be really fussy about some things,
weld repairs on Model A steering gear is one of them.

I had a very freightening experience with an improperly
welded ball/stud on the end of the pitman arm on my model A.
Unknown to me when I aquired the car, somebody had welded a
new ball on the end of the pitman arm.  The ball came on a
stud, and the pitman arm had been machined out to fit the
stud, and then the stud welded in place.  It is a common
thing to do to recondition them.  

In this case however, it was a cold weld and the whole
ball/stud assembly came out looking almost like new and left
me rolling down the road at 45 mph with exactly no physical
connection between the rotation of the steering wheel about
the steering shaft centerline and the angular orientation of
the front wheels!  

It turned out OK, no one hurt, nothing bent, and myself
knowing my heart was good for significantly more than the
medically advertised "maximum" rate.

When I had it repaired, I ground off the excess weld and
prepared the joint.  My amature research into the "right
way" to weld that joint suggested I had neither the
equipment or the skill to do it properly.  I had it welded
by a certified professional welder.  He preheated it because
it is a severly constrained joint, TIG welded it top and
bottom, stress relieved it after he was done, and then after
cleaning it up used liquid penetrant to be sure there was no
cracking.  Belt and suspenders maybe, but I had no more
problems.  

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:41 EST 1996
Article: 44356 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:00:33 GMT
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:


>Proper tension (not usually achievable with cheap saws) is very important to proper 
>cutting and life. I bought a tension meter years ago, & it was worth the expense.

I learn something new every day.  Bandsaw blade application,
tension, speed, etc.  sounds like a good place for me to do
some personal research. 

Do you have an address for the publications you mention?

I've not seen one of these tension meters.   Sounds like a
good thing to have around.  Does it work based on some sort
of calibrated & measured force to
"bend-slightly-in-the-middle-between-two-points" principle?

I'm asking because maybe I can make something like that - a
screw that pushes against a spring to slightly deform the
blade between two fixed points, with a measurement of spring
deflection as the indicator of tension.  It could be
go-nogo, I wouldn't need more than single point calibration,
I only use one width and thickness of blade on the metal
saw.

To "calibrate it":  My Delta woodworking bandsaw has a
window, a spring, and an indicating washer for setting the
blade tension, and can use 1/2" blades like my Johnson
horizontal metal saw.  I could set a 1/2"  blade up properly
tensioned on my Delta wood working bandsaw and calibrate the
home made tension meter device for half inch X .025"(?)
blades, the only ones that are usable on my Johnson saw.

My Johnson saw can put a *lot* of tension on a blade.  It
has a sizable "T" handle on a 3/8-16 threaded rod pushing
against a sliding casting.  I wonder if I may have been less
than properly assertive when adjusting the blade tension.

Lets see:

.025" thick X .45" from root of tooth to back = .0113 square
inches of blade cross section at minimum point.  I'd guess
it is reasonably tough steel in tension, maybe 27ksi yield
at .1% /1000 hr creep.  This suggests I'd need about 305 lbs
per side or 610 lbs total jacking force on the screw.  The
screw is 3/8 - 16 NC.  It would advance .0625" for every
3.14" around a 1" dia circle for a multiplication of ~50
pounds axial thrust per 1 inch-lb of torque at 100%
efficiency.  I could use 90% assuming it is clean and well
lubricated.  That suggests I need 610/(.9 X 50) = 13.5
in-lbs of torque to get the proper blade tension if I have
made the right assumptions.  Thats not to much twist.  After
calculating it I went down and played with the in-lb torque
wrench.  That is practically no torque at all.  

I must be doing something wrong, I usually put more torque
than that on the blade.  I am probably not using a high
enough tensile strength rating for the blade metal.

If these assumptions are correct, I shouldn't get into a
"contest of wills" with the tightening handle.

I will hunt around on the Web and see if Starrett has
anything on how to use their blades.

Fitch







From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:42 EST 1996
Article: 44357 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anyone heard of a P & H TIG
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:08:16 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
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OK guys I finally found a Big TIG that I could afford.
My Econotig has done stalwart service for me for 3 years , but with bigger
projects on my horizon I felt the need for more power and control.
So, a friend of mine in Oakland Ca. sold me his old TIG since he has a
newer Hoabart CyberTig.
This beast is a 250 amp P & H TIG, by the Hophschnegger Co. of Milwaukee Wis. 
I have never seen one of these before, but it seems to be really well
built. We are guessing it to be from the 40's or 50's.
I was surprised at how many options it has for such an old machine.
It also came with a "Smoothing Unit ", which appears to be a fancy,
active-filtered, choke-coil to clean up the low-end output.
It is currently at Pacific Welding Supply getting a once-over before I
risk my breaker panel.
It came with a water cooled torch, but no water cooler unit, a pile of #00
cable and the foot pedal controller.
It weighs about 500 lbs, but it only cost me $400 for the lot.
It is set to run on  440v or 220v singlephase.

I am wondering if anyone has any experience with these machines.
I am told that they are good machines as long as the (huge) silicon
rectifier doesn't blow.
I like the fact that you can get to the entire insides just by openning
the hinged side panels.

Thanks in advance

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
"So it was that four hours later, carrying two hundred cigarettes, completely drunk and with a half-naked, unmarried Filipino lady, I emerged, behind the writing desk in the Headmaster's study‹simultaneously breaking a hundred and twenty-seven school rules. The Chaplain, now seventy-four and impatient to get his Archbishopric, had finished the tunnel just a hundred yards too early."   -    " Tomkinson's Schooldays "  by Michael Palin & Terry Jones


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:44 EST 1996
Article: 44358 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-26.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:09:10 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 21
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References: <588iki$q8k@newsreader.wustl.edu> <58kulj$105@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32af8f42.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58o7fe$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32b0e4ec.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58ri0n$jkh@news.proaxis.com>
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

>Our problems with leveling have been that the concrete in the shop floor is too 
>thin...  when the planer table movess, the concrete moves!

>Regards, Mark

I can believe that.  At work when they put in the big
machines, they dig a big hole and pour a lot of concrete
into it.  

Here in my garage, when it rains the whole floor shifts
slightly, probably due to the extremely expansive soil we
have.  I couldn't detect it before.

Fitch







From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:45 EST 1996
Article: 44359 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM-Machining on the Internet
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:22:06 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32b343ac.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net> wrote:

<snip>

>But I think we can all appreciate the fact that
>we are online with many different computers and learning much.


Roger that.

Fitch



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:46 EST 1996
Article: 44360 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boosting air compressor output?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 17:17:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58juuv$qok@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, EDCP78A@prodigy.com
(Alex Sallwey) writes:

>Ok, ok, I got the cfm reversed, and the NON dropped out when I talked 
>about the oil, it should have been non-detergent.  Sorry about that.
>Alex
>
>

Hey Alex, got a small tube so I can syphon this Mobil-1 out of my new
compressor before I do some damage? Grrrr

Peter
Just kidding. <g>


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:47 EST 1996
Article: 44361 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of a P & H TIG
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 08:57:25 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32B403C5.36C4@ix.netcom.com>
References: <stagesmith-1512960308160001@cust45.max31.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
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To: Ernie Leimkuhler <stagesmith@earthlink.net>

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> 
> OK guys I finally found a Big TIG that I could afford.
> My Econotig has done stalwart service for me for 3 years , but with bigger
> projects on my horizon I felt the need for more power and control.
> So, a friend of mine in Oakland Ca. sold me his old TIG since he has a
> newer Hoabart CyberTig.
> This beast is a 250 amp P & H TIG, by the Hophschnegger Co. of Milwaukee Wis.
> I have never seen one of these before, but it seems to be really well
> built. We are guessing it to be from the 40's or 50's.
> I was surprised at how many options it has for such an old machine.
> It also came with a "Smoothing Unit ", which appears to be a fancy,
> active-filtered, choke-coil to clean up the low-end output.
> It is currently at Pacific Welding Supply getting a once-over before I
> risk my breaker panel.
> It came with a water cooled torch, but no water cooler unit, a pile of #00
> cable and the foot pedal controller.
> It weighs about 500 lbs, but it only cost me $400 for the lot.
> It is set to run on  440v or 220v singlephase.
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has any experience with these machines.
> I am told that they are good machines as long as the (huge) silicon
> rectifier doesn't blow.


only 1 comments
if it has SILCON rectifiers in it
then it must be late 60's or newrer

ap


From bfairey@wat.hookup.net Tue Dec 17 14:24:48 EST 1996
Article: 44362 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Exotic Matl source of
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 16:53:52 GMT
Organization: HookUp Communication Corporation, Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
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Some months ago someone posted a web page address of a company
that supplies small quantities of "exotic"? materials ie titanium,2024
alum etc I upgraded my system and lost my bookmarks.
Does anyone have this web address.
Brian,Ont,CAN


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:49 EST 1996
Article: 44363 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 13:55:42 GMT
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I know we talked a lot about the Drill DR. a month or so ago, I guess 
some folks would still like to hear how  well the sharpener is working.  
This is my little experience with the 3/4 inch sharpener so far. I have 
only sharpened about 45 to 50 drills 3/32" to 3/4" in size.  The machine 
has worked great the first 10 to 15 drills the point seems a little rough 
but after that the points are showing much more polish. The holes I have 
drilled are round and close tolerance. My personal opinion is that it is 
a quality tool.  



From dmre@dmre.ultranet.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:51 EST 1996
Article: 44364 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "David R. Moore" <dmre@dmre.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Southbend Lathe Parts
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 09:06:01 -0800
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Looking for a source of parts at reasonable prices for 6" lathe parts,
circa 1960 vintage, domestic or foreign.


From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:52 EST 1996
Article: 44365 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Drilling a Tapered Hole?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 14:04:44 GMT
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A gentleman E-Mailed a note to me asking about the Drill dr. and wanted 
to know if there is a drill made that will drill a 3/8" dia. hole that 
has a 5degree taper.  I am not a machinist, just a wantabe hobby 
machinist, but my thought would be to drill a hole then run a taper end 
mill through the hole, or perhaps there is a taper reamer available that 
is not special order.  I don't know if the 3/8"dia. is at the large or 
small end of the taper, perhaps Mr. Mickelson could tell us more of what 
he is trying to do.  I am sure that some of the real machinists could 
help him out.



From 103334,36@compuserve.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:53 EST 1996
Article: 44366 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: 103334,36@compuserve.com (Dan Falck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: CNC wars
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:06:18 GMT
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I wanted to make a comment about the Ahha, Sherline CNC, Microkinetics
debate that I saw on this group over the last month.
Six years ago, I wanted to retrofit my model 30 mill/drill as a mini
CNC.  I started out reading a series of articles in Home Shop
Machinist called "Convert Your Mill/Drill to CNC"  It seemed that this
should be a worthwhile endeavor.  Roland Friestad was the author and
apparently also the owner of Cardinal Engineering.  His series of
articles was great- He had details for everything needed to convert a
mill/drill of generic variety into a CNC.  There were drawings for the
motor brackets, drawings of the ball screws, references on where to
get ball screws, controllers, software- everything.  I didn't opt for
the Centroid/Cardinal controller, but I did cut out the motor brackets
and followed a lot of what Roland had to offer.  At about the same
time,  I saw an ad in HSM for Ahha! CNC retrofit kits.  I sent in for
the info pack and demo software.  The demo kit was very good.  It went
on further to explain more details about the secrets of CNC
retrofitting.  The Ahha demo looked good, but it didn't warrant the
cash that they wanted verses my intended use.
Phase three of my retrofitting education came when I started
corresponding with Dan Mauch from Camtronics.  He has a great web page
at http://www.seanet.com/~dmauch/.  Dan encourages new users to try
Dancad3d/Dancam- an older shareware(freeware- now that Dan Hudgins
doesn't support it anymore- I know because I have corresponded with
him) becuase it is free and great.  I use Dancam.  It does do the job
for home use.  I use Autocad and Smartcam with a Fadal and Komo at
work and I do know that there are limitations for a program such as
Dancam- but who cares?  The program is simple and it works.
The bottom line for me:
1.  All the other software costs too much for home use- my wife would
kill me if I spent any more money on the garage shop.
2.  I bought my drives from General Controls- I should have bought
them from Dan Mauch- but I was too dumb to realize that he sells the
same thing for much cheaper.
3.  I did buy my 300 oz/in motors from Dan Mauch.  They work well.
4.  I don't have ballscrews.  The software compensates for backlash.
5.  I don't have a Bridgeport so my capacity/accuracy is limited by
the mill/drill anyway.

Price of software and associated drives:
3 x 2 amp motor drive   $99 ea
24V power supplu          free- from discarded Decwriter III
2 x 300 oz/in motors     $75 ea
6 x Timing belt pulleys   $10 ea
1 x 110 oz/in motor	free (ripped out of old printer)
software-Dancam	free
 
That comes to roughly $510 not counting the old computer that I
already had and the mill itself.  Oh and by the way,  it does cut
metal.  It can mill aluminum and steel but it's not as fast as the
Fadal at work.






From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Tue Dec 17 14:24:54 EST 1996
Article: 44367 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 20:17:21 mountain
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In article <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> v8j4@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (John Earle) writes:


>Hi and thanks for reading this posting.  I am working on a small
>project to pot (embedd) some electronics in an epoxy and once
>the mixture is stirred up it's full of air bubbles - the data sheets
>say to pull a vacuum on the mixture - I assume this is with some sort
>of inverted bell jar or something.  Anyone got any experiencee with this
>sort of procedure and if so, where would I go to scare up some
>equipment "a la cheap" to rig up a small setup?

>Maybe those little venturi based gadgets hooked to the compressor would 
>work? then again - perhaps it would take all day...

>Anyway, any help people can provide would be much appreciated.

John

Scientific supply houses, and others, sell a venturi device you
attach to a water faucet.  I have found that they will pull about half
an atmosphere, and have a suprisingly large capacity.  An old
refrigerator compressor will pull 25 to 27 ins. Hg, but they are
slow.  If you use a small chamber, and your potting compound
is slow setting, a refrigerator compressor might do.  I use a
Welch vacuum pump which I obtained rather inexpensively,
and it will pump quite a high vacuum with a reasonable capacity.
I use a commercially available bell jar made of plastic about the
size of a gallon jug, and my pump will bring it down in about 40
seconds.  My experience with epoxies and such is that the
viscosity determines how much vacuum you need.  A very
viscous material usually needs to be pulled to a high vacuum,
and be held there while you vibrate the bell jar plate.  And you
need to hold the vacuum while the material settles back into
place.  If you release the vacuum too soon, the material will
sometimes trap air in the hollows.  A thin material will boil
all the air out quite quickly.  I tried to use some household
RTV to pot something the other day.  I was totally unsuccesful.
The air came out, leaving holes behind which wouldn't till.
Does anyone know how to thin RTV?

		Robert Grauman in Sunny Alberta


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:55 EST 1996
Article: 44368 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:52:20 GMT
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lwc1220@aol.com wrote:



<Snip

> While I now weld a lot
>with 7018, 7024, and 6013 on a DC welder at work I still prefer the old
>cracker box at home with 6011. I read somewhere and agree with it that an
>AC welder will get better penetration than a DC welder. That is expecially
>true if you use 6011 rod. It tends to burn deeper than most of the other
>rods. Its also more forgiving of dirty metal than the others since it will
>burn right through paint and rust. I personally find it a lot easier to
>use out of position than any other rod that I have tried so far.

<snipped interesting experience>

>  The main thing that I wanted to state here was to not discount 6011 to
>much. While its not a rod for making pretty welds. To me its easier to
>use. This is mainly because of the amount of flux that the other rods
>produce. I have had trouble at times with the flux getting in the way of
>the weld.

Reading your excellent post it occurred to me that in 40+
years of welding on countless different things I had never
struck an arc with 6011.  So I dug out my book again to read
about it, and it turns out that I have, although I didn't
know it at the time.  6011 is sold in three flavors by
Lincoln (Its their book, so there rods are whats in it).
Fleeetweld 180 is one flavor of 6011 specially optimized to
work with 225 amp AC welders.  I've probably burned 30 or so
pounds of that over the years.  I remember liking it.  I got
into the habit of asking for 6013 a number of years ago
after I had some thin stuff to weld and a welder friend
suggested using 6013 as a good sheet metal rod.  it worked
well for me, so I kept buying it.

Your experience and Lincoln's recommendations agree 100%.  

Me thinks I shall take me hence and purchase a few pounds.

I started welding some alloy steel (drill tube and sucker
rod) to build my arena fence and it was recommended to do
that with 7018.  So I read about it, got a small oven to
keep it in, and started using that.  Once I got used to it,
and had an AC/DC welder, I started using it most of the
time.  It doesn't restart as well as other rods, but once I
got used to it it wasn't a problem.

>  Whew this has gotten longer than I intended. I just get kind of
>passionate trying to defend my favorite rod.

Not a problem!  Thank you for sharing your experiences.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:57 EST 1996
Article: 44369 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:19:34 GMT
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lwc1220@aol.com wrote:


<sniped good stuff>

>It sounds to me that
>you should be getting more life out of you're blades based on my
>experience. Just don't ask me what the difference is.

I think I should too, and I'm 99.999% sure the reason is
that I am doing something wrong with how I use them.  So I
am going to look into it.  

The Johnson saw has a hydraulic cylinder to adjust the
pressure on the blade.  Normally I have it set to move very
slowely.  Based on your suggestion, and the times you gave,
I will experiment with it a bit to see what the feed
pressure might be.

There is also a sliding weight I found on the saw after
reading your post which was set about half way out along its
travel.  I may move it back to lessen the pressure and see
if that makes a difference also.  It seems to me it should
be a better pressure control than the hydraulic thing.

Fitch




From jbarry1000@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:24:59 EST 1996
Article: 44370 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jbarry1000@aol.com (JBarry1000)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB 4 Jaw Chuck for 13" SBL
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:23:53 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Wanted, 4 Jaw chuck for my 13" SBL, with or without backplate, 6" min dia.
Reasonable!



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:00 EST 1996
Article: 44371 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 9" Southbend, how much?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:16 GMT
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Tom Burns <Tom@Atlanta.com> wrote:

>I'm looking at a 9" southbend lathe that appears to be in good 
>condition, with 3 jaws (two) and four jaw and faceplate. Any opinins on 
>what I should offer for this machine?...Tom

Do you know what model it is?  A, B, or C?

Does it have a quick change gear box?  If not, are the
change gears there?  Is it flat belt or V belt drive, does
it have the two speed counter shaft?  Did it have hand
scraped ways?  

Is your condition assessment based on measuring it?  How
clean it is?  Some knowledge of its history - hobby use only
for 45 years, etc.?

Fitch




From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:01 EST 1996
Article: 44372 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:18:56 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
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On 14 Dec 1996 15:27:45 GMT, rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
wrote:

>    I haven't seen one of these. Can you tell a little more about it?
>                                            Roger L.

Check out www.darex.com


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From samain@trader.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:02 EST 1996
Article: 44373 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron Wise <rjwise1@iupui.edu>
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Message-ID: <32B1E087.34F4@iupui.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 18:02:31 -0500
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Paul Traynham wrote:
> 
> Red Gem <cgermina@inf.unitn.it> wrote:
> >Washed Mind wrote:
> >>
> >> If u want to be saved and have eternal life, first read john 3, 16 and
> >> then e-mail me for a saving prayer that i can pray with you. Until
> >> your saved your heading for eternal hell. The Bible says so. All of
> >> your doing crafts so you wont have to face you're Maker by keeping
> >> you're mind occuppied. Turn to the lord Jesus Christ today!
> 
> 
> Hey Red.  Maybe you should go get a decent education before judging our
> hobby.  "Your" implies posessession (not the devil kind).  "You're" is a
> contraction for YOU ARE.
> 
> After you get back from 3rd grade,  maybe you can start thinking for
> yourself instead of believing everything you read.
> 
> And don't assume  that just because we enjoy a hobby, we're (note: the
> "we are" contraction) keeping our minds occupied to avoid God.  I often
> thank God for a good beer.
> 
> Paul
>Here!, Here!, even monks drink beer!  Heaven forbid that I should indulge in collecting!  Learning to appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of peoples and cultures must surely be a sin of the highest magnitude!  If I burn in hell, will my paper money collection go up in flames?  I guess I better think this through.



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:03 EST 1996
Article: 44374 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Results: Chuck problem on 1860 JET lathe!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 02:13:42 GMT
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

>Well gentlemen, the replacement chuck came today, at it fit perfectly in both 
>directions. I heard that they had a bunch of bad chucks. JET acted very responsibly 
>in resolving this problem.

>I will be doing some cutting tests and will report back.

>By the way, contact on the taper AND the flat outer portion of the camlock is the 
>correct way these chucks fit.  I now know far more than I ever wanted to about 
>camlock chucks!

>Thank you VERY much for all the help and advice, guys. This newsgroup is by far and 
>away the best.

>Regards, Mark

Ahhhhhhhhh.  Very Good!  I believe I can safely assume you
are at least a bit relieved. <G>  

Thanks for the follow up.  Will await the next chapters with
interest.

Fitch



From DQCB48A@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:05 EST 1996
Article: 44375 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: DQCB48A@prodigy.com (Don Klipstein)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: F/S: Toolmaker's Microscope
Date: 15 Dec 1996 01:16:36 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
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Distribution: world
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FOR SALE:

Mitutoyo inspection microscope, Model BI-4, Code 
#176-104. Movable stage has T-slots, window in 
center for transillumination (has 115 VAC internal 
substage illuminator with variable brightness).  
Table is driven in X and Y axes by large-barrel 
Mitutoyo 1" stroke micrometers, readable to .0001".  
15X eyepiece with crosshair reticle in calibrated 
rotating cell with vernier azimuth, readable to 
0.10 degree of angle.   Has 2X objective; total   
magnification 30X.  Has provisions for two auxil-
iary 6V .25A illuminators (not supplied). $600.00.

Price does not include packing or shipping. 





From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:06 EST 1996
Article: 44376 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: 15 Dec 1996 01:57:50 GMT
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Dear Fellow Metalworkers,

Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$

God bless America

Alberto from London


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:07 EST 1996
Article: 44377 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: D.I.Y. Spark Erosion machine
Date: 15 Dec 1996 01:57:54 GMT
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Dear Fellow Metalworkers,

Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to
build a DIY spark erosion machine ?

Your help is much welcome 

Alberto from London


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:08 EST 1996
Article: 44378 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginner needs help!
Date: 15 Dec 1996 01:59:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32A83045.76F3@cyberhighway.net> <32B05AC6.7EEF@pcii.net>
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In <32B05AC6.7EEF@pcii.net> reddog@pcii.net writes: 
>
>Can anyone recommend an instruction book for a beginner wanting to cut
>simple metal shapes. I've got some small patterns I've made out of
wood
>and would like to try them in metal. I tried the scroll saw but
couldn't
>hold the metal down enough. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
>Mary

    Mary, clamp, screw, or glue the metal between two thin pieces of
1/4" plywood. This makes a sort of wood-metal-wood samdwich. Trace your
pattern on one of the plywood pieces and cut the whole thing at the
same time on the scroll saw. The wood backing will keep the metal from
jumping.
                                Roger L. 


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:10 EST 1996
Article: 44379 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:11:26 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Peter:

I am shure you are probably correct, but in my Spanish English
technical dictionary it says so, never mind I made good note
of your comments. And thank you for putting me right !!! 

Translation is a difficult beast, most of the time and I have
to cope with three languages all the time.

Alberto
 


From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:10 EST 1996
Article: 44380 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:12:19 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <32B42363.18C2@worldnet.att.net>
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To: Robert Grauman <rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca>

Robert Grauman wrote:

      <snipped>
> 
> Does anyone know how to thin RTV?
> 
>                 Robert Grauman in Sunny Alberta

 <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>>

If you're talking about silicon rubber out of a caulking tube, or
smaller plastic glue applicator, I use this stuff to paint on clay and
wax models to build very strong rubber mold.  For years I thinned the
first coat with toulene--very noxious stuff.  Then, one day when I was
out of toulene, I tried mineral spirits.  It worked better and without
the noxious side-effects.  Try mineral spirits.

Randy




From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:13 EST 1996
Article: 44381 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:42:58 GMT
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In article <58s9f6$9n3@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>, cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com
(Chuck Sherwood) writes:

>Hi everyone.
>
>I have some questions on boring holes and on sherline carbide insert
tools.
>
>I need to bore a hole in a bronze steam engine casting several inchs
deep.
>I ground a 3/8 round tool bit as a boring tool and made a toolholder
>for my Sherline lathe. I was able to use this tool to bore the cylinder
>(1 inch deep x 5/8 dia) However, I was unable to bore the body which is
>a 3/4 hole by 3.5 inchs deep. The tool would just ride on top of the part
>and polishs it.  It seems like the tool is flexing too much. I was
holding
>the part in a 4 jaw chuck and had a steady rest on the outside with
>the tool running down the throat.
>
>I started looking at the Sherline boring bars with the valenite inserts.
>These boring bars are 3/8 dia by 6 inch long. What is the maximum depth
>that I can expect with a 3/8 diameter boring bar. 2, 3, 3.5 inchs???
>

 A rule of thumb I heard one time was that you could stick out a bar up to
6 times its diameter. I have however violated that rule several times. One
thing is that with that much flex I don't think you will be able to take
any really fine cuts. Somthing like .0015" cut or .003 out of the diameter
would be the smallest cut I would try. And to get a cut like that you had
better make sure the cutter is really sharp. From you're description it
sounds like you might not have enough relief under the cutting edge. The
edge may not be getting to the work before the bottom of the cutter is
rubbing.


>Also, sherline makes left and right hand holders for these inserts.
>Are these inserts unique to sherline tools? They sort of imply that.
>If they are, should I be concerned ?
>
>Sherline does make a tool holder that does use standard 55 deg negative
>rake inserts, but I need to solve my boring problem first and it would be
>nice to standarize on inserts. (The boring bars use postive rake inserts)
>
>One other idea that Im working on is building a boring bar from 1/2 in
>diameter steel drill rod. I got some small broken end mills that I was
>thinking about grinding into cutters. Is this a good approach or a lot
>of work that is destined for failure?
>
 At work we use boring bars that are shop made. For the most part they are
made from cold rolled though this is not an ideal material for a boring
bar they do work. Recently I've made several bars from some core that was
trepanned out of some pretty good stock. I don't know just what steel it
is but it machines harder than 4140. They work a lot better than the cold
rolled bars expecially for the smaller bars. Although when I'm talking
smaller bars the smallest boring bar holder we have is 5/8" as compared to
the biggest bar we have in the shop which is about 5" dia by about 40"
long. I've also recently made a bar that will hold a triangular carbide
insert. I built it similar to the way we make most of our bars. Which is
to mill a slot the same size as the tool bit we're going to use in the
bar. Then cut a slit back from the slot far enough to allow a socket head
cap screw to flex the now split ends of the bar togather and clamp the
tool.

>I also am making a fixture so that I can clamp the part using a long
>bolt through the spindle. This might tighten things up a bit.
>
>All advice appreciated !
>
>



   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From jriser@azstarnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:14 EST 1996
Article: 44382 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jriser@azstarnet.com (James P. Riser)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:47:31 GMT
Organization: James P. Riser Magic
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Charles;
The engraving tools are called "gravers".  They come in a wide variety of
shapes.  Before choosing gravers you might want to read up a bit on the
subject.  Three of my books are:
General Letter Engraving by Whelpley copyright 1890! (I picked this up at
a used book store - I'm not really that old);  The Jewelry Engravers
Manual by R. Allen Hardy copyright 1976; and Engraving on Precious Metals
by A. Brittain, S.Wolpert, and P. Morton copyright 1958.

The gravers are purchased without handles and usually too long for
practical use.  Most engravers break off the extra length, then sharpen as
needed.  You would want to obtain a sharpening fixture.  Many gravers are
bent or curved to give hand clearance when engraving on flat objects like
clock dials.  They are used with wooden "mushroom" shaped handles -
usually with a flat to keep from rolling off the bench.  The last book
especially details sharpening and mounting in handles, etc.  I've got over
70 gravers; but you could probably do a brass clock dial with just a
handfull - depending on how detailed you wanted to be.  Many production
engravers use a GraverMaster or GraverMax as the motive force.  Both are
foot controlled miniature pneumatic hammers which chuck the gravers. 
Since I live in Tucson home of the annual Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, I
am able to see vendors of such goodies every February.  I do know that Rio
Grande in Albq. New Mexico will have everything you need - including the
brass probably.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Jim



> > 
> > I've just discovered this newsgroup tonight.  It seems to be
> > full of nice, knowledgeable people.  It also seems to have a
> > good "signal to noise" ratio (good info vs. spam).
> > 
> > This is the first time I've ever tried posting to a
> > newsgroup so I hope this works.
> > 
> > My interest is sundials.  Of late, I have been wanting to
> > make a brass sundial and engrave it by hand.  Unfortunately,
> > I haven't had much success in finding out about the
> > different kinds of brass or which types of brass are most
> > suitable for hand engraving.  I'm also hoping someone in
> > this newsgroup can provide me with a source of books,
> > cassettes or videos that teach engraving.  Also, a supplier
> > of hand engraving tools would be nice to hear about as well.
> > 
> > Thanks for taking time to read this and thanks especially
> > for any and all replys I may receive.
> > 
> > Charles
>

-- 
James P. Riser
Home page:  http://www.azstarnet.com/~jriser


From willy@snip.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:15 EST 1996
Article: 44383 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "willy" <willy@snip.net>
Subject: Re: Plans for FORGE?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <32A5427C.3234@metz.une.edu.au> <58h5ll$cse@lily.redrose.net>
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Date: 15 Dec 96 02:54:27 GMT
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emporer@success.net wrote in article <58h5ll$cse@lily.redrose.net>...
> >   Lindsay Rowlands <lrowland@metz.une.edu.au> writes:
> >  I'm seeking help in locating some plans that I can use to get a 
> >  modest forge up and running. I want to heat mild steel and 'smith'
> >  it rather than make castings to build a 747 ;-)
> >  
> >  If anyone can point me in the right direction I will be most
> >  appreciative. And apologies all round if this has been covered
> >  before - I've only been looking in here a little while.
> >  
> >  Cheers,
> >  -- 
> >  Lindsay Rowlands, Faculty of Arts, University of New England, Armidale
> >  NSW Australia.
> >  
> >>>>
> Here is a description of my $30/ 30 minute coalburning forge
construction:
> 
> NO, but I'll run you through it quick:
> 
> Go to a local farm supply stor, purchase a large cutting disk
replacement:  Looks
> sort of like a big hub cap painted black, with a hole in the center: it's
made of
> tempered steel, weights a ton, and has sharp edges, so never drop it on
your foot!
> 
> Also buy a large diameter (1 1/2 inch or 2 inch) galvanized steel t
section pipe,
> and one screw in cap to fit.
> 
> If you don't have appropriate stock at hand you will need 4 3 foot pipes
to serve as 
> legs- to get really fancy, buy threaded caps to make the legs removable.
> 
> For air feed, buy a length of collapsible aluminum vent pipe.
> 
> Finally, buy a steel straining spoon for deep fryer- looks like a very
shallow bowl
> with lots of bb sized holes in it and a long handle.
> 
> Assembly: weld the T to the bottom of the Cutter at one end, so you will
have a right
> angle lead in for air and a straight drop to let ash and (if you leave it
out in the 
> rain) water out.  The hole must be completely surrounded by pipe, so all
air goes
> into the forge.
> 
> Weld a straight piece of scrap onto the cap to serve as a handle, screw
into bottom of
> T
> 
> Weld the four legs on around the rim
> 
> Cut the handle from the spoon, round off, and weld it to the inside,
covering the
> hole
> 
> Extend the vent tubing, squeeze one end tight around the t intake.
> 
> Flip your forge so it stands on its legs
> 
> Attach air source to other end of vent tubing
> 
> Build fire in center of forge:  I like to use a little newspaper, topped
with a
> teepee of sticks, sprinkled with coal
> 
> Light fire, start air supply
> 
> Add more coal, look for yellow smoke- sign of coal converting to coke
> 
> Pile coal nice and deep, keep feeding in from outer walls to center, add
more to
> outside:  You are actually preforming two steps:  Convert coal to coke
near rim,
> and burn coke to heat metal in center.  Remove whiteish lumps- this is
clinker:
> unburnable byproducts of impure coke- seems to glow a little, but not
providing
> heat- blackens almost immediately when removed from fire.
> 
> You will want to play around with your air source-  to much and you blow
the 
> fire and even the fuel out of the forge, too little and the fire never
gets
> really hot.
> 
> Stay away from household charcoal- it has a very high sand content, which
will crap 
> up the forge or blow out (and a cloud of hot glass particles is no fun at
all,
> plus it will never really get hot enough.
> 
> Possible air sources:  Shop Vacc (must have OUT outlet, do not suck air
in!)
> Powerful blow drier (the heated air doesn't hurt, but is a waste of
electricity
> most likely...)  Leaf Blower ( too much air, you will need a
rheostat/dimmer
> to turn it sdown to a useable range)
> 
> Good luck, tell me how it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
Is there anyway to convert a gas grill for a forge. I saw some plans on the
ABANA page but they looked difficult. Except for the gas nozzle gas forges
look like brick lined boxes. 
Suggestions?
bill


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:16 EST 1996
Article: 44384 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:39:01 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler) wrote:


>My favorite paint in the universe is hammerite, but if you buy it by the
>gallon, the stuff is like molasses. 
>Finally I was able to shoot hammerite on an industrial scale, and it
>worked great. The cleanup was easier than I expected for a pressure-pot.


Don't know if this is of interest to anyone in regards to this thread
but ......

I used to spray all my stuff with a standard Craftsman siphon type air
spray gun but I had a lot of problems spraying thick paint (needs to
be thinned first) and always dreaded the 15 minute cleanup for the 2
minutes of use for small parts. 
One day, with a bit of extra time on my hands, I decided to mess
around trying to build a mist cooling system adapter for my air gun.
This turned out to be a 1/2" long dohickey that replaces the safety
nozzle on the air gun (just screws on) and it has a short section of
plastic tube for the infeed of coolant.
Anyway, when I tested this thing I was utterly amazed as to how much
water this thing would spray .... we are not talking mist here - we
are talking monsun (sp?). I had to throttle the coolant intake quite a
bit for it to be reasonable.
So far so good - and you probably ask why I am telling you this ....
well, one day I had another one of those 2 minute paint jobs and I was
too lazy to deal with thining the paint, clean the equipment etc so I
had the brilliant idea of taking my fancy siphon nozzle on the tip of
my air gun and hanging the coolant hose into the paint. Now as it
turned out the paint was in fact too thick so I had to thin it just a
tad but boy did this setup work a charm then !!! It sprayed at a much
higher volume than my paint sprayer and instead of a 2 minute spray
job it was a 30 second spray job. Cleanup involved sticking my finger
over top of the nozzle to let the pressure blow out the suction hose !
That was it ..... done ... finished ...
Now you will probably say that eventually the paint that remains will
restrict flow - tru but the nozzle was drilled using standard drill
bits and they can be used to get the hard paint out if necessary and
the 2 ft of plastic hose for paint intake is probably worth less than
50 cents to replace.
One side benefit - with my proper spray gun I end up with paint mist
travelling quite a ways and messing things up unless I lay down a
cover over 3/4 of my shop - this does not happen with the homebrew
system because atomization isn't anywhere near this fine.

You won't be able to spray paint a car this way but it sure works a
treat on non-critical jobs.

Last summer I build a shed outside. It had cedar siding and I decided
to protect the siding with a special cedar protectant. The stuff was
as thin as water and it was impossible to apply it via brush as stuff
was dripping left right and center. I finally sprayed the protectant
but with the small can on the gun and the low volume nozzle on it, it
took forever to do. I can still kick myself for not having come up
with my air gun attachment sooner. Instead of maybe 15 hours of work I
could have done the job in an hour or two.

Jens 


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:17 EST 1996
Article: 44385 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:59:18 GMT
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In article <58s9f6$9n3@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>, cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com
(Chuck Sherwood) writes:

>One other idea that Im working on is building a boring bar from 1/2 in
>diameter steel drill rod. I got some small broken end mills that I was
>thinking about grinding into cutters. Is this a good approach or a lot
>of work that is destined for failure?
>
>

Can't help on the Sherline inserts but with boring bars on deep holes, use
the largest diameter that you can get into the hole with a little
clearance for chips.

However if I were doing this I would start with a ceneter drill and drill
to about 1/2" then using the boring bar bore in about 1" or until it
starts to deflect away from the work. Bore this to 9/16 then continue
using a drill up to 1/64 short of the final size and then ream it. Machine
reamers are pretty cheap.

Once the hole has been trued up by the original boring to 9/16 the drills
*should* follow it as *should* the reamer.

With the boring bar you are using is it on center? Try about 0.003 to
0.005 above center to counteract deflection. For bronze, as with brass use
a zero top rake.

Peter




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:18 EST 1996
Article: 44386 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:59:24 GMT
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In article <32b2e16c.1263604@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(Bill) writes:

>I too would like to hear about this. ...
>I spent most of the fall trying to do the same for my garage. I have
>made a burner that looks something like a small forge that is feed
>pelltets from a storage bin via a auger from a commercial coffee
>grinder. But havent been to sucsessful at feeding the pellets at the
>right speed, w\out making a big mess or not fast enough.
>
>

A plug in thermostat switch from Home Depot and a fan speed controller
>from  the same place could do it all for under $15.00

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:19 EST 1996
Article: 44387 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newsreaders
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:59:11 GMT
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In article <32b24e6b.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>virus infections.  Propigation was almost non-existant - we
>stopped several infections at two PCs, both infected by
>floppies brought from infected home machines.  We still
>forced virus checks every time a user booted a PC, or once a
>day, which ever was less.
>
>

It pays to be cautious but the nub of propogation is in this paragraph.
The errant floppies from home. As I said previously I wont say it *can't*
be done but I cannot figure a way it could. Mayve there are no programmers
in your IT group?

I guess the height of embarrassment was for a group that distributed a
newsletter called the PC Advisor. It went to corporations world wide for a
hefty annual fee. I wrote many technical articles for them. They had a
special issue on viruses and you can guess, the accompanying monthly disk
had the stoned virus on it.

The virus had been transferred to the copy company's machine from an
earlier copying job, then transferred to the PC Advisor's entire run.
Caused quite a stir. The good side of it was I was paid handsomely to
write a program that they named "Assure" to verify the master diskette and
produce a key value. The diskettes were then labeled with the key value
and the users would first run their version of Assure and it should arrive
at the same value. If it didn't then something had changed from the master
disk to the copy.

The Assure program would verify every byte on the diskette except for two
that I used as a start key for the CRC value each time. If someone can
create a usable virus in two bytes then I guess we still had a problem.
<g>


Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:21 EST 1996
Article: 44388 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:59:15 GMT
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In article <32ADB129.1F3@sprintmail.com>, John L Ferrell
<johnferrell@sprintmail.com> writes:

>I intentionally end sentenances with prepositions because it it annoys
some
>people like 
>a sqeeky chalkboard!
>
>

Most likely goes unoticed here John, I hope you get annoyed. <g>

Peter



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:22 EST 1996
Article: 44389 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:38:56 -0800
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stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler) wrote:

>In article <32b314eb.39285106@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
>(Jens) wrote:
>5 in. for some of the pieces and .060 for most of them.
>> 
>> The Econo Tig will NOT be powerfull enough to work with 0.25 aluminum
>> no matter how much juice comes out of your dryer plug. I don't know
>> what the exact limits are for al but it's less than steel because of
>> the high heat conductivity.
>> 
>
>Correction here 
>I have been welding 1/4" - 1/2" alluminum for the last 3 years with my econotig.
>Now to be specific, Econotigs don't reallly like thick aluminum, but if
>you takes steps it works just fine.
>The first step is to run a helium / argon mix. This boosts the heat
>considerably and also makes up for the lack of a true high frequency by
>cleaning the weld with the higher heat.
>If the piece is really thick then simply preheat to about 300-400 deg F. I
>have welded pieces of 1" square bar aluminum with very clean results.
>If I had my druthers I would probably choose the newer Lincoln square wave
>175, but 3 years ago I had no other options.


I stand corrected  ... silly me assumed that the dealer trying to sell
me the rig knew what he was doing .....   ooooops

(btw,the demonstration used straight argon)

Jens


From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:23 EST 1996
Article: 44390 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning....how's it done?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:07:00 GMT
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"Ian W. Wright" <Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk> wrote:

><snipped excellent stuff>

>They then had a spun base with a central glass disk and a fancy handle
>soldered on and were snapped up by the high class gift shops. This was
>real craftsmanship and I often wonder if he or many of the other highly
>skilled but undervalued craftsmen I have come across are still working
>their magic.
>FWIW

>Ian

>-- 

>Ian W. Wright LBHI
>Elected National Council Member and Sheffield Branch Chairman of the British
>Horological Institute. 
>Bandmaster of the Hathersage Brass Band.
>See our homepage at:- http://www.GeoCities.com/Hollywood/6067/index.html

>'Music is the filling of regular time intervals with harmonious oscillations.'

This was a terrific post. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Jim Waggener



From samy@netins.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:24 EST 1996
Article: 44391 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: samy@netins.net (arnie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 15 Dec 1996 03:51:23 GMT
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In article <32af9606.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.comy says...
>
>Frank Perdicaro <frank@dsea.com> wrote:
>
>
>>I was persuaded by this newsgroup to go and take welding course,
>>and I urge you to do take one.  8 hours a week of welding instruction
>>has made a HUGE difference in my ability, and the cost is low.
>
>>Cheap and easy are not always possible.  I can now say that a 
>>trailer could be assembled using one of the Lincoln AC/DC machines
>>at HomeDepot, and a lot of 1/8" 6013 rod at about 85-90 amps. It
>>took a few months to get to this point, but now I'll never forget.
>
>>A GOOD power supply for welding is not cheap.  And you need clothes
>>and tools and a helmet.  How much can you afford?  Having looked into
>>this exact area, I can say with certainty that it is cheaper just 
>>to buy a trailer than to buy the tools to make one.
>
>
>The class is a very good idea.  I was not fortunate enough
>to ever have the opportunity to take one so taught myself by
>reading books and practicing.  That was a lot of years ago.
>
>BTW you can use 6013 on AC only welders.  That was the rod I
>used a lot with my 225 amp AC Lincoln - also some 7014, and
>a few pounds of 7024.  It would take a long time to list the
>stuff I built with that welder, a $200.00 bandsaw, saw, a
>sears grinder, and a drill press ($179.00 cheap imported
>thing that won't die after years of abuse so I can buy a new
>one!).  The torch came later.
>
>Fitch
>
>in response to fitch,what you said about 6013 rod,it is not true,6013 
rod can be used on d,c.+. Being certified in 
s.m.a.w.,g.t.a.w.,g.m.a.w.,f.c.a.w.,o.a.w and pipe welding,i say to the 
newbie,if you want to do it right,go to school it is money and time well 
spent. Arnie



From mjn@HiWAAY.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:25 EST 1996
Article: 44392 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjn@HiWAAY.net (Mike Norton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 15 Dec 1996 03:03:53 GMT
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In article <32B1762C.74BE@erols.com>, romeug@erols.com says...
>
>> I throw the danged useless bimetal thing away and
>> don't bother to file new teeth on it in a burst  of
>> misguided thrift <G>).
>> 
>sounds like youve worn them to nothing, ive taken those blades, cut them
>into foot long pieces, wired a stack together and use them as a rasp
>for  scatch finishing on my lathe, work pretty well.
>
>> I presume those running the small saws are running them dry
>> also - the one I used to have had no coolent system.
>> 
>small spray bottle which i occasionaly (at least twice a cut)spray the
>piece, guides etc with wd40- just small amount, cutting aluminum
>exclusively,

I use a little cutting oil (sulphurated) in an oil can when cutting steel.  
It's a little messy, but the blades last a long time.

  - Mike Norton



From saustin@northnet.org Tue Dec 17 14:25:26 EST 1996
Article: 44393 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Diamond laps & files
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:14:42 -0500
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <32B37B32.642CAE42@northnet.org>
References: <E2AtLF.F40@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <01bbe8be$5b5d6be0$84c665cc@billharnell.adss.on.ca>
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Bill Harnell wrote:
> 
> A tool and diemaker I know purchased an old cast iron
> surface plate, applied a light coat of oil and sprinkled
> diamond dust on the surface plate which he then used (and
> still does after 40 years) as a lap.
> 
> Seems that the cystalline structure of cast iron allows
> fine diamond particles to embed themselves into the lattice
> structure where they remain.
> --
We use a lot of diamond lapping compound at work.  To charge a
round lap we smear it on two hardened HSS plates and then roll
the lap between the plates while tapping the top plate with a
light hammer.  The laps themselves are fairly soft mild steel. We
try to keep them tapered about a thou over 12 inches or so.  A
set of laps for working on a 2mm hole might remind you of a
handfull of raw spagetti.  
Steve A.


From markr@digimag.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:27 EST 1996
Article: 44394 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Rayborn <markr@digimag.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Trip hammer wanted
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:44:35 -0800
Organization: Digital Magnolia, Inc.
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I'm looking for a trip hammer or drop hammer. Maybe somebody out there
knows where one is hiding. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:28 EST 1996
Article: 44395 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Old tap magic still available
Date: 15 Dec 1996 03:51:36 GMT
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I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up, the 
old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available. Call your 
local supplier, guys...

Regards, Mark



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:30 EST 1996
Article: 44396 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 04:00:30 GMT
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r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

<snip>

>BTW I just got my free spare Diamond wheel from Darax (thanks Mr. anderson
>Merry Xmas to you too) and I have been thinking of mounting it on an arbor
>and turning it at slow speed (on the lathe or mill) to get a Glendo
>Acugrind effect... for touching up Carbide inserts when they chip (for a
>lot of use they dont have to be indexable so loosing the exact center to
>cutting edge comonality is no big deal) small tilting table in the lathe
>tool holder and speed about 300 rpm...

That is a neat idea.  Especially since I am luckey enough to
have two lathes and could easily set it up on the one not
being used at the moment.  (I have had the mill, shaper, and
one lathe operational at the same time, but *never* two
lathes).  I will have to get out the yellow pages and look
up lapidary shops.  There must be some in the SanFernando
Valley.

Does anybody happen to know if there are any there that have
these diamond laps?

Fitch






From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:31 EST 1996
Article: 44397 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: 15 Dec 1996 03:55:14 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Try Casmate and Enroute along with a CNC mill. Software by Scanvec. Does a marvelous 
job of 3d engraving any graphic image.

Regards, Mark



From samy@netins.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:32 EST 1996
Article: 44398 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: samy@netins.net (arnie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need taper attachment for 13"sbl lathe
Date: 15 Dec 1996 04:00:40 GMT
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wanted taper attachment,used,reasonable T.I.A. Arnie



From saustin@northnet.org Tue Dec 17 14:25:33 EST 1996
Article: 44399 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:52:56 -0500
Lines: 12
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References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <32b0e9f9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <AED7151A9668B116A@ppp16.nantucket.net>
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Randolph Lee wrote:
> 
ther hand is 0.0007" concave accross a 9" face plate almost a
thou low.
> your lathe may vary and remember you can not check this by mounting an
> indicator in the tool post an traverseing the mounted plate... a quick and
> dirty check is with a known good straight edge and a loog for a line of
> light... or try a .0005 feeler gauge under the middle..
> 
If you run your indicator across the half of the plate towards
the back side of the lathe will read twice the dish.
Steve A.


From Junkman@olywa.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:34 EST 1996
Article: 44400 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Junkman@olywa.net (D.W.Rech)
Subject: Re: Electo-Polishing of Stainless Steel
Message-ID: <ce7cc$13352b.379@MYCROFT>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:52:53 GMT
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All right you primitive screwheads, listen up! (gwhite@tiac.net (Doug
White) said:)

>Keywords: 
>In article <cd7cc$14361f.140@MYCROFT>, Junkman@olywa.net (D.W.Rech) wrote:
>>All right you primitive screwheads, listen up! (codeng@power.co.za
>>said:)
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I Need to Polish  welds on small stainless steel components.
>>>Grinding and Buffing is not possible (If the weld is ground then too
>>>much material will be removed and failure will be likely)
>>>
>>>I believe that Sulfuric and Phosporic acids together with DC current
>>>can be used. 
>>>
>>>Can Someone please advise what proportions and reccomend a suitable
>>>current/voltage?
>>>
>>>John Spargo
>>>
>>>codeng@power.co.za
>>>
>>>
>>I used a 125 volt 10 amp variac turned down to 20-24 volts. Depending
>>on the pad on the end of the wand  (fiberglass, rockwool, cotton ) and
>>the strength of the acid ( phosphoric ) , the current was about 5
>>amps. You can use more voltage, but the pad will occassionally short
>>out. Be sure to protect both sides of the circuit with a 10 amp fuse. 
>>The system removed the blue in the stainless and also removed the
>>black carbon-like residue. It reduced our finishing time on stainless
>>steel sinks by about one-half.
>
>Do you use a rectifier in this process, or just run AC?
>
>Doug White
>
We just used AC. Found the circuit in a 1930's sheetmetal workers
book. It recommended using a doorbell transformer, but I figured that
it would be a little short on current handling capacity. The electrics
are the easy part. Finding a material for the pad that holds together
while scrubbing welds with acid is tougher. We used fiberglass sound
liner only because we had it. A tougher material would be better.




From dukovurl@mail.idt.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:36 EST 1996
Article: 44401 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Dworzan <dukovurl@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pratt Burnerd Chuck
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:08:24 -0800
Organization: IDT 
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Would anyone have an address and phone number for Pratt Burnerd Chuck? If 
so, please post or email. I need to find out if they make a 4"- 4 jaw 
independent lathe chuck with plain back. Thanks. 
PD



From saustin@northnet.org Tue Dec 17 14:25:37 EST 1996
Article: 44402 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 00:07:57 -0500
Lines: 28
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Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net> wrote:
> 
>Hi all,
>I saw a post here about  parting tools and skreeching (excessive noise
>when cutting). I have experienced this in only one situation, That is
>when I am cutting internal snap ring grooves in an alumium tubeof length
>that requires a steady rest. I am pretty sure that I am lined up on
>center but is this noise something that I should be concerned with?
>Will  it damage my machine?, cutting tools? The groove gets cut but it
>sure hurts  me in more ways than one while doing it. Would excessive
>runout cause this I am at about 600 rpm 6061 t-6 aluminum extruded
>tubing.
>This leads me to my next question-
> 
>Should I use the follow rest and the steady rest both in this
>application?
> 
>Any help would be great.
>Thanks
> 
>Tony
> tony.midea@moa.net
> 
Tony
I've been known to take off my belt and wrap it around pesky
animals like your howling tube.  A good stiff piece of rubber
jammed inside also might help.  
Steve A.


From war11@rpa.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:38 EST 1996
Article: 44403 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 11:31:10 -0600
From: war11@rpa.net
Subject: Re: Help on South Bend Info
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850669555.11040@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <58id9r$f1n@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
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In article <58id9r$f1n@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>,
  white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White, SMO Administration - 63552) wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know what horsepower motor and rpm would be used on a 9"
> South Bend Model "c". I purchased the lathe without a motor.


Ed:

I have a 1/4 HP DC motor on my 10 inch South Bend and it can take a pretty heavy 
cut. Plus it might keep you out of trouble it you have an OOPS!

                            Bill
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From kdl@IslandNet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:40 EST 1996
Article: 44404 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kerry Lange" <kdl@IslandNet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Old Fashioned Anvil?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 06:18:46 GMT
Organization: Impress Publishing
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A friend of mine, who doesn't have Internet access, is looking for an old
fashioned anvil.  Does anyone know where he can get one.  He lives in
Vancouver, BC, Canada and if anyone knows of one near there, please e-mail
me.



From p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu Tue Dec 17 14:25:40 EST 1996
Article: 44405 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil Crome)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 05:15:17 GMT
Organization: Staff - College of Agriculture
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Compressors and sandblasting have been a hot topic over the last
little while in this n.g. Well, I'm trying to get over a serious case
of the rattle-can blues and I'm wondering what kind of equipment and
processes all of you project-makers and machinery rebuilders use to
keep rust at bay and your things looking good after you've spent an
afternoon with your huge compressors and maniacal grins 8).
Specifically, how and with what do you paint whatever it is that you
paint? 


Thanks

Phil Crome



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:42 EST 1996
Article: 44406 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:15:50 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>
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peter,peter,peter

stop your righteous god like statements

what i posted was i no way spam
i listed 6 machines that would 
most likely be of interest to members of the group.
either they might be looking for a small hobby type machine, or as a
price comparison to what they have.
it was a short post with links to photos.

i didn't hear any complaints when 
i listed inspection equipment for sale.
actully everbody i sold tools to were happy as could be.

the subject line of the post was clear, SMALL MACHINES FOR SALE
if it didn't interest you, you should not have read it

i don't read every post on the ng, just the one of interest

grow up  
stop trying to be the den mother


regards
ap


From dide@dgsys.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:43 EST 1996
Article: 44407 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:Sleschinger? was   Ready made spacers?
Date: 14 Dec 1996 13:55:33 GMT
Organization: Digital Gateway Systems
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Message-ID: <58ubkl$b1d@news.dgsys.com>
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Randolph Lee (r.lee@windshadow.com) wrote:
: of Hardinge or Leven)  will face very slightly concave... per the
: Sleschinger (sp) limits. my Schaublin 102 is concave 0.0001 mm accross a

     The what kind of limits?
     David Ide


From diallist@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:44 EST 1996
Article: 44408 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: diallist@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Engraving brass sundials
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 05:39:57 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Many thanks to all who responded to my request for
information regarding engraving brass sundials.

The dial I have in mind to make will be 8 to 10 inches in
diameter.

Charles




From hps@shore.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:45 EST 1996
Article: 44409 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 19:14:57 GMT
Organization: Henry's Machine Shop
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <591inh$o48@fridge-nf0.shore.net>
References: <1996Dec13.014755.7724@news.wrc.xerox.com> <32B19D43.6BCF@sprintmail.com> <58uk5l$c3q@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <32b4278d.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch Williams writes,
"Dad bought some special oil he kept in a glass jar for the SB 
lathe and shaper. I am using it as spindle oil. 

I happened to be at a friends shop one day and saw a glass jar on 
the shelf above the SB lathe . It bore a hand lettered label that 
read "Machine oil Special "  It was amber in color and very light 
viscosity.  He produced two glasses with an ice cube in each and 
dispensed some , It bore an aroma strikingly similar to Jack 
Daniels burbon.  and yes it was an excelent lubricant.  but we 
didnt pour it into the spindle cups.  Did you ever see where your 
dad poured his "Special oil" ?

Henry



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:25:47 EST 1996
Article: 44410 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!hecate.umd.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!panix!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cold welding
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:16:32 GMT
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hook@usit.net wrote:

>i know of a man who welds cast iron without heat. he does a lot of
>automotive work and guaruntees everything. he will let you watch him
>prepare the work peice grind the vee and everything but goes behind
>locked doors when he welds it. all he will say is theres no heat
>involved because it will cause the cast to break. ive welded with
>every thing and alaways have to heat the cast way up and let cool
>slowly.what is he doing?   

OK guys, I think this may help.  I was flipping through a welding
supply catalog and found:  "UTP 8 'Softflow'" welding rod AC or DC
straight polarity, 70,000 psi tensile strength, 175 brinell hardness.
"All position, commercial pure Nickel.  The finest Electrode for "cold
welding" Cast Iron.  Soft filable transition area."

-Reckless



From peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au Tue Dec 17 14:25:48 EST 1996
Article: 44411 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: peter@prospect.anprod.csiro.au (Peter Wiley)
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 09:45:15 GMT
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In article <32b09aff.126090114@news.islandnet.com> psh@islandnet.com (Jens) writes:
>"Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com> wrote:
>
>>I have heard it said that unless you are really good at mig welding, it
>>is a great way to make good looking, WEAK welds, and that it should not
>>be used for structural stuff (picture the trailer falling apart at 60
>>mph with a 12" lathe on it...). I don't know mig welding from a hole in
>>the ground, but that's what I heard from folks who know.
>
>I agree ... I can make real pretty stuff but won't touch a structural
>job that could result in major (property or persanal) damage such as a
>trailer. Most welds I lay down are fine but there is always the one
>cold/low penetration joint that sneaks in. It's just not worth the
>risk.

Me, too. When I did welding to boilermaker standard in the early '80s, MIG
was not permitted for pressure vessel work. Too damn easy to get cold
laps, especially if you're a beginner, welding vertical down etc.

While I have a h/duty 250A MIG welder, if one machine had to go, that'd be
it. I do all structural work with a stick welder using 6011 electrodes.
The MIG is nice and fast for fabrication work, though, and I have used it
to weld 6mm aluminium on occasion. That is an interesting experience.
Humbling is another word that comes to mind.

Peter Wiley



From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:49 EST 1996
Article: 44412 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:50:24 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 37
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In article <5900ab$g8t@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu wrote:

> Compressors and sandblasting have been a hot topic over the last
> little while in this n.g. Well, I'm trying to get over a serious case
> of the rattle-can blues and I'm wondering what kind of equipment and
> processes all of you project-makers and machinery rebuilders use to
> keep rust at bay and your things looking good after you've spent an
> afternoon with your huge compressors and maniacal grins 8).
> Specifically, how and with what do you paint whatever it is that you
> paint? 
> 

Well Phil.
I finally put my system together for painting iron railings this last summer.
I got a used Binks model 7 professional paint gun at boeing salvage and
after paying $15 for a rebuild kit it was good as new.
I picked up an old Craftsman brand pressure pot at a garage sale, and
after figuring out the hoses and regulators, I had a nice system.
Of course I had to go buy a bigger compressor, but new it only cost about
$200 at Costco for a 5hp compressor.

My favorite paint in the universe is hammerite, but if you buy it by the
gallon, the stuff is like molasses. 
Finally I was able to shoot hammerite on an industrial scale, and it
worked great. The cleanup was easier than I expected for a pressure-pot.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:51 EST 1996
Article: 44413 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:33:36 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 46
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In article <32b314eb.39285106@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) wrote:
5 in. for some of the pieces and .060 for most of them.
> 
> The Econo Tig will NOT be powerfull enough to work with 0.25 aluminum
> no matter how much juice comes out of your dryer plug. I don't know
> what the exact limits are for al but it's less than steel because of
> the high heat conductivity.
> 

Correction here 
I have been welding 1/4" - 1/2" alluminum for the last 3 years with my econotig.
Now to be specific, Econotigs don't reallly like thick aluminum, but if
you takes steps it works just fine.
The first step is to run a helium / argon mix. This boosts the heat
considerably and also makes up for the lack of a true high frequency by
cleaning the weld with the higher heat.
If the piece is really thick then simply preheat to about 300-400 deg F. I
have welded pieces of 1" square bar aluminum with very clean results.
If I had my druthers I would probably choose the newer Lincoln square wave
175, but 3 years ago I had no other options.

Test drive before buying anything.

> The Econo Tig will be ok for the 0.030
> steel but I would be reluctant to try it on a dryer line (50 amp would
> be ok though).

Correction again.
The econotig is difficult to control on any materiel thinner than about
0.045" ( 18ga. ) especially on steel since it lacks a low setting for DC.

Also the machine will run on a 50amp circuit, but it is actually rated for
52 amps max draw. I have mine running on a 60 amp breaker.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:25:52 EST 1996
Article: 44414 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:01:30 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <5904pe$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>G'day,

>Does anyone have a neat suggestion for some spacers. I am mounting three
>NEMA-43 motors and I need some spacers 1.000" long with at least a 1/4"
>diameter hole through them.

>Since they are motor mounts they must all be *exactly* the same length. I
>don't have a surface grinder and it is proving a chasing game to machine
>them to the exact same length in the lathe. 

>I thought of using hardened drill bushes but the ones I have measured vary
>in length by several thou. Any suggestions for an off-the-shelf item that
>would work? They can be square round hex, anything as long as the length
>is consistant with a 1/4" or larger hole through them. Hell the hole can
>even be off-center.

>Peter

You've probably already solved your problem by now, but a flexible
coupler can be made by cutting an X shaped piece of metal (spring
steel comes to mind) and bending the arms such that the north and
south arms point down and the east and west arms point up.  The arms
would then be attached to hubs, one on the motor shaft and the other
on the leadscrew shaft.  If the arms are wide enough, there would be
very little rotational play, and it could accomodate several thou
worth of angular or radial displacement.  I seem to remember seeing a
part like this in a mechanical cash register or something similar, on
the motor shaft.

The rubber hose on 2 hub couplers are a great idea, and if you can get
a hose with outer braid and clamp the braid well enough, it will
transfer torque quite nicely.  Just remember to pull the braid tight
before clamping it.

Just some more thoughts,
-Reckless




From bertha@mhn.org Tue Dec 17 14:25:53 EST 1996
Article: 44415 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!38.8.16.2!psinntp!psinntp!pubxfer.news.psi.net!usenet
From: funky@mhn.org (That Funky Chick)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles.yarn,rec.crafts.winemaking
Subject: Re: $$$$ $50,000 for the New Year $$$$
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 05:30:24 GMT
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 05:49:17 -0800, James & Angela Penrose
<j7610154@themall.net> wrote:

>Much more useful to post to the sender's postmaster.  Pyramid schemes are 
>not only rude and inappropriate to the net, they're also illegal.

Apologies for cross-posting this, but I thought this might be useful:
There's a web site called "Fight Spam on the Internet" at 
http://www.vix.com/spam/.  It's not mine, I don't know the guy who it
belongs to, but I found a lot of helpful info on there (and in the
news.admin.net-abuse.* newsgroups) on how to deal with spammers, both
in newsgroups and in e-mail.

-Bertha
bertha@mhn.org


From goaway@idcomm.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:54 EST 1996
Article: 44416 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:34:08 +0000
From: goaway@idcomm.com (Steve Schmidt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Opinions on Clarke 150EN Mig
Message-ID: <goaway-ya023580001412962234080001@superego.idcomm.com>
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I am considering purchasing a Clarke Turbo 150 EN Mig welder. It is gasless
but can be adapted to gas.

Any experiences good or bad?

Thank you,
Steve
goaway@idcomm.com

-- 
goaway@idcomm.com


From ianc@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:55 EST 1996
Article: 44417 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: Ian Campbell <ianc@islandnet.com>
Newsgroups: alt.cad.,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Dancad and Tablet?
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:19:50 -0800
Organization: Utopia Services
Lines: 10
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Does the newer Calcomp Drawing *Slate* II (32050SER, 32090SER, etc) work
with Dancad3d? The Dancad docs mention the Drawing *Board*, which is
either a misprint or an older device. The Slate has pressure sensitivity
which I thought might interfere with things. 

Thanks for any info... (preferably personal experience)
 
-- 
Ian Campbell - http://www.islandnet.com/~ianc -
secretdeadmediamachinecollage.etc...


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:25:56 EST 1996
Article: 44418 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:23:27 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <59062i$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <58qifh$47s@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>,
>rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>>a propeller to blow air across the compressor? Come to think of it...My
>>old compressor has spokes that do this. Could it be that yours does too
>>but someone has put the pulley on backwards??
>> 

>Good thought....but fans is fans no matter which way you put them they
>push the air the same way.

>Peter

Very true that they will move air in the same direction regardless of
which way the prop is facing, but if the blades have a curve to them,
they will be more efficient facing one way than the other.

Though the compressor pump flywheel/fans I have seen don't have curved
blades so that wouldn't make any difference here.

Is it running in the correct direction? CCW vs. CW?  From the factory
it should be correct, but if the motor was replaced it might not be
running the correct direction.

-Reckless



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:25:57 EST 1996
Article: 44419 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip50.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 05:50:40 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
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>That is a neat idea.  Especially since I am luckey enough to
>have two lathes and could easily set it up on the one not
>being used at the moment.  (I have had the mill, shaper, and
>one lathe operational at the same time, but *never* two
>lathes).  I will have to get out the yellow pages and look
>up lapidary shops.  There must be some in the SanFernando
>Valley.

>Does anybody happen to know if there are any there that have
>these diamond laps?

Try the crystalite corporation
1-800-777-2894

they have a neat catalog of lapidary/glass diamond wheels, laps, hones
flexible belts, burs core drills etc. They also have diamond powder and 
compound. Many dealers carry their products at a savings (or a premium, caveat 
emptor)


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:25:58 EST 1996
Article: 44420 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 10:52:38 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Kevin Pinkerton) wrote:


>Thanks, I took a look and found about 100 articles. Seemed to be an
>initial problem with alignment on 3/8 and smaller bits and with the
>amount of relief. Has these problems been corrected to everyone's
>satisfaction?

No .. but practise makes perfect and you can do a pretty good job with
it. 

Jens


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:26:00 EST 1996
Article: 44421 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 07:02:52 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <5908cg$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <58tksf$2db@news-central.tiac.net> <32b314eb.39285106@news.islandnet.com> <32bfe3c4.105127425@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:

>I shall chime in along with Jens (not that he needs any chimes, heh).

>My dryer plug was run with same wire and breaker size as my stove, and
>IS 50A just like Chris. With my Lincoln SQ175, OR my Millermatic 250
>Mig, I can run steel continuously with NO problem. When I do smaller
>assemblies of 1/4 Alum plate (with the SQ only, of course), I am only
>using max amps for a bit at the start and then pedal down to control the
>puddle expansion as the thing heats up, and AM able to weld using this
>technique, but it's gotta be right on the hairy edge (not of the SQ, but
>the breaker). I CAN pop the breaker if I dial in high amps and try to
>run a bead on the surface of a BIG piece of plate alum where I have to
>keep the heat on for a long time, but that goes without saying. If you
>are only doing runs of less than say 2", on smallish assemblies that are
>going to come up to heat fast, I think you'll be fine. Any of the Alum
>tubing stuff you would be fine. The SQ is especially good on alum tube,
>given it's continuous pedal control. You can control the heat on the
>fly.

>I would guess that the problem Jens saw with the EconoTig has more to do
>with the arc stabilization (it uses High Voltage Spike technology, not
>High Frequency like the SQ); OTOH, I do know folks do Alum with the
>EcTig, so I dunno for sure what the problem might be.

>Garfield

Agree with the above, though I swapped my 50A breaker in the subpanel
for a 100A (it's just a shutoff switch now) and use the 60A subfeed
breaker in the main panel to protect the circuit (all the wiring is
big enough so its safe).  I have a Lincoln SQ175 and have popped the
60A breaker, but only when welding 5/16" aluminum at full power for
fairly long periods of time (several minutes straight).

You want to check that your dryer plug isn't a 30A feed, if it is I
doubt you'll be able to get past 75-100A of welding current.  Fine for
tubing but that 1/4 plate won't happen.

BTW I can recommend the Lincoln unit (I'm very happy with mine),
though I haven't used the Econotig unit.

-Reckless



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:01 EST 1996
Article: 44422 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: D.I.Y. Spark Erosion machine
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:23:05 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <32B38B38.373E@cyberhighway.net>
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To: bohigas@aol.com

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------12AA25476A19
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> 
> Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to
> build a DIY spark erosion machine ?

Both Home Shop Machinist and Strictly I.C. magazines had
construction series within the last year or so.


> Your help is much welcome
> 
> Alberto from London

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------12AA25476A19
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FAQ


FTP://Plains.uwyo.edu/metal/
--------------12AA25476A19
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VILLAGE PRESS
	LIVE STEAM
	PROJECTS IN METAL
	HOME SHOP MACHINIST
	Also some Great Hardcover
	collections of reprints

http://members.aol.com/vpshop/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/pim.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/hsm.htm
http://members.aol.com/vpshop/steambook.htm

Phone:  1 (800) 447-7367
Phone:  1 (616) 946-3712

FAX:    1 (616) 946-3289
--------------12AA25476A19--




From todengine@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:02 EST 1996
Article: 44423 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: todengine@aol.com (Tod Engine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Richardson-Phenix Lubricators
Date: 15 Dec 1996 06:51:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <19961215065000.BAA21454@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

I am looking for a pair of Richardson-Phenix five feed mechanical
lubricators for the Tod steam engine.  They are easy to identify because
the name is cast in a circle around the pump drive shaft.

Anyone that has one, has seen one, or has any info. about them please
contact me.  They are needed for a restoration project in Youngstown,
Ohio.

Rick Rowlands
Tod Engine Project


From geoffben@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:03 EST 1996
Article: 44424 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip21-140.phx.primenet.com!user
From: geoffben@primenet.com (geoff beneze)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: beginner needs help!
Date: 14 Dec 1996 16:41:01 -0700
Organization: BEAST Enterprises
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <geoffben-1412961640040001@ip21-140.phx.primenet.com>
References: <572861$2mj@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32953719.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <584hra$ekh@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32a7ac80.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <32A83045.76F3@cyberhighway.net> <32B05AC6.7EEF@pcii.net>
X-Posted-By: @204.245.21.140 (geoffben)
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.2

In article <32B05AC6.7EEF@pcii.net>, reddog@pcii.net wrote:

> Can anyone recommend an instruction book for a beginner wanting to cut
> simple metal shapes. I've got some small patterns I've made out of wood
> and would like to try them in metal. I tried the scroll saw but couldn't
> hold the metal down enough. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Mary,
how thick is your metal? What speed are you using for the cut, what kind
of blade, etc? I've cut metal with the jig saw and hand saw, VERY slowly
with a fine toothed blade, up to about 1/16".
-- 
geoff beneze (geoffben@primenet.com)
NRA Life member
********************************************      
Arizona Shooting Sports --  http://www.primenet.com/~geoffben
BEAST Gunsmithing  -- Target Stands
The unofficial Dillon Tech Page


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:05 EST 1996
Article: 44425 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsbuffer.myriad.net!news.fibr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:48:30 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32B3831E.25F7@ix.netcom.com>
References: <58vsk8$3ih@news.proaxis.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Dec 14  8:48:22 PM PST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)
To: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>

Mark Winlund wrote:
> 
> I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up, the
> old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available. Call your
> local supplier, guys...
> 
> Regards, Mark

i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:06 EST 1996
Article: 44426 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!newsbuffer.myriad.net!news.fibr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:46:11 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <32B38293.7B2D@ix.netcom.com>
References: <19961215015700.UAA12692@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ron-ny13-03.ix.netcom.com
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sat Dec 14  8:46:03 PM PST 1996
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)
To: bohigas@aol.com

bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> 
> Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
> wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
> cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
> 
> God bless America
> 
> Alberto from London

bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> 
> Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
> wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
> cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
> 
> God bless America
> 
> Alberto from London



you need a EMCO compact 5 cnc lathe to turn the to a precise
diameter, this ensures complete combustion, 
i just happen to have one for sale
only $4,950.00 us funds only please


GOD SAVE THE QUEEN

andy from LONG ISLAND


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:08 EST 1996
Article: 44427 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.orst.edu!news.cvo.oneworld.com!mackenzie.pioneer.net!slip48.pioneer.net!felice
From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:59:24 GMT
Organization: Pioneer Telephone
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <felice.373.32B3A1CC@pioneer.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip48.pioneer.net
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by 
Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.


http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/MC/ColvinSerlll.html




From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:09 EST 1996
Article: 44428 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!hookup!visi.com!mr.net!news.idt.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in2.uu.net!204.96.36.2!wizard.pn.com!news.zeitgeist.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Getting Back
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 01:24:57 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32ABDAE9.412E@abrasha.com>
References: <19961206195500.OAA26306@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dynamic-203.dnai.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I)

garyh82012@aol.com wrote:
> 
> What I meant to say was: How do I get the neswgroup window to display all
> messages? The help  window mentions a choice called "List All subjects"
> but I don't see that option anywhere. I want to look up some old postings,
> such as the address and phone # for Atlas/Clausing, but they are no longer
> displayed. I am only seeing new postings. Please help if you can, thanks,
> Gary


Check out http://www.dejanews.com/ on the Web, and/or get rid of AOL and get your sell a 
regular local ISP.

Besides, even in Netscape choosing Options/Show All Messages would only get you messages 
as fer back as a couple of weeks or sometimes only a few days.

In dejanews you can search much farther back.

Good Luck!

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:10 EST 1996
Article: 44429 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Do you know these machines?
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:08:27 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <58h30b$28m@dfw-ixnews11.ix.netcom.com>
References: <19961209060200.BAA04123@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ron-ny7-59.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Dec 09  7:08:27 AM CST 1996

In <19961209060200.BAA04123@ladder01.news.aol.com> garyh82012@aol.com
writes: 
>
>I will be attending a few machinery auctions in the near future. These
>machines have been mentioned in the ads: Sharp 15x40 gap bed lathe,
Lion
>17x60 lathe, Webb mill, and a Romi lathe. I have never heard of any of
>these before. My budget for a lathe is under $3000. Anyone  out there
able
>to give me some kind of a clue as to quality or value of any of these
>machines? 

Gary,
 I think the most important step should be to assess your needs and
wants as far as machinery goes. What for example do you hope to make
with these machines? Then assess your budget, space limitations etc.
Be sure to include the cost of tooling somewhere in the budget
equation! 
 With this information in hand, you will be in an excellent position to
pick the collective brain of this news group. You will then be in a
position to make an informed decision. I am quite certain there are
lots of people in the group who bought the wrong machine the first time
around.
 At a glance, I would say there is nothing at this auction to run out
and buy in a hurry. If you feel that an auction is the way to buy your
machinery, you should plan on attending several. You will be in a bad
position if you have the attitude that you must buy a particular item
that day. Set your price well in advance, and walk away if the price
goes beyond that. There will always be another auction around the
corner.
 As a machinery dealer, I would be remiss if I didn't try to explain
why you might want to consider buying from a dealer. You may pay more
than the auction price, but you will be able to inspect under power.
You will be able to return the machine if something is wrong. You will
be able to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about the machinery.
Most importantly, you can still get answers and help months later.
Regards,
Dave Ficken
Meridian Machinery
http://hre.com/meridian
 


From weinbergerg@ccsua.ctstateu.edu Tue Dec 17 14:26:11 EST 1996
Article: 44430 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ycc.yale.edu!yale!usenet
From: "g.j.weinberger" <weinbergerg@ccsua.ctstateu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.coins,rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.paper-money,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: !!! Eternal Salvation !!!
Date: 9 Dec 1996 13:01:39 GMT
Organization: Yale University, Department of Computer Science, New Haven, CT
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <58h2jj$icc@babyblue.cs.yale.edu>
References: <32aa14af.48480302@news1.ibm.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 149.152.122.70
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)
To: zoner@goodnet.com
Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.coins:40103 rec.collecting.dolls:31071 rec.collecting.ornaments:73 rec.collecting.paper-money:3368 rec.collecting.phonecards:8761 rec.collecting.postal-history:2363 rec.collecting.sport:124 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:196650 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:114810 rec.collecting.sport.football:145170 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:105654 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14422 rec.collecting.stamps:41477 rec.collecting.villages:5828 rec.crafts:128 rec.crafts.beads:11927 rec.crafts.brewing:111032 rec.crafts.carving:1089 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3212 rec.crafts.glass:4291 rec.crafts.jewelry:16297 rec.crafts.marketplace:10984 rec.crafts.metalworking:44430 rec.crafts.misc:27479 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11714 rec.crafts.pottery:3357 rec.crafts.quilting:138 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2262 rec.crafts.textiles:146 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1100 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5477 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:96769 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:34298

What relevance does your idiotic spouting have to stamp collecting? You 
are free to abuse yourself all you like, but leave us in peace.



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:12 EST 1996
Article: 44431 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-07.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:16:57 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <32ac1058.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32A7232F.1DA@pobox.com> <587d1v$egt@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32a9dcf1.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <ldick-0712962023230001@phila108-pri.voicenet.com>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.westworld.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson) wrote:


>Something to think about:
>Using carbide for parting on a conventional engine lathe is not a good idea.
>Even with a rigid, close to the chuck set up, You will not be able to 
>run sufficient surface speed (usually 300sfm or higher) to satisfy carbide
>tooling's
>cutting requirement. This is especially true as the od reduces. NC machines
>part with carbide by using constant surface speed.

>Lynn

You are probably correct, but mine seems to work just fine
as long as I don't get timid with it.  I end up taking a
facing cut whether I use the carbide or the HSS cut off
blade.  The carbide works better for me, especially on
larger pieces.

I had trouble at first because i was trying to take it easy.
Big mistake.  Keep the speed up, feed it right in using the
power feed on the cross slide, and its no problem.

All of the above is on my 12" 1.5HP gear head lathe.  My 1/2
hp flat belt drive 9" south Bend doesn't do very well with
the carbide cutoff tool - not enough power.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:14 EST 1996
Article: 44432 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-07.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High vibration when using parting tool on lathe - ?
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:16:58 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32ac105a.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <32A7232F.1DA@pobox.com> <587d1v$egt@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32a9dcf1.0@mournblade.ptw.com> <ldick-0712962023230001@phila108-pri.voicenet.com> <32abbf18.269970930@news.islandnet.com>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.westworld.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>ldick@voicenet.com (Lynn Dickerson) wrote:

>>Using carbide for parting on a conventional engine lathe is not a good idea.
>>Even with a rigid, close to the chuck set up, You will not be able to 
>>run sufficient surface speed (usually 300sfm or higher) to satisfy carbide
>>tooling's
>>cutting requirement. This is especially true as the od reduces. NC machines
>>part with carbide by using constant surface speed.

>Yup, I can second that opinion based on trying to face workpieces with
>carbide.
>It's most annoying when you get a mirror like finish and at about one
>inch in diameter you get tearing of the metal (HRS). It doesn't matter
>what speed you go at ... start position of the tears will change but
>it will always be there.
>Having said that,carbide should still work for cutoff  (not tried it)
>except for the poor surface finish at the end ... and I get that with
>HSS anyway.

>Jens 

Maybe I should convert my lathe to a 2hp three phase motor
and use an inverter variable speed drive.  That should work
a lot bettter for facing and cutting off than the single
speed for a cut that I have now. I've been thinking about
it, but so far havn't seen any reason that would make that
use of money better than some other.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:15 EST 1996
Article: 44433 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-07.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: test world wide
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:14 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <32ac106a.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <E20oIu.G8t@iglou.com>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.westworld.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

rooster@iglou.com (Rooster) wrote:

>i am trying to find out if my news program is restricting my posts to my
>internet site only. 

>this is a test.  if you are from Norway or North Dakota, you could e-mail
>me and i would know if this is getting out.

>thanks in advance.

>--
>rooster

It is making it to within 70 miles of the Pacific Ocean in
the tiny California high desert community of Acton.  

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:16 EST 1996
Article: 44434 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-07.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Getting Back
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 14:17:12 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32ac1068.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <19961206195500.OAA26306@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: frwillia@ptw.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.westworld.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

garyh82012@aol.com wrote:

>What I meant to say was: How do I get the neswgroup window to display all
>messages? The help  window mentions a choice called "List All subjects"
>but I don't see that option anywhere. I want to look up some old postings,
>such as the address and phone # for Atlas/Clausing, but they are no longer
>displayed. I am only seeing new postings. Please help if you can, thanks,
>Gary

It would help to know what software you are using.

Fitch



From gmfoster@epix.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:17 EST 1996
Article: 44435 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in3.uu.net!199.224.64.34!news1.epix.net!news
From: gmfoster@epix.net (Garry Foster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Substituting 1 picture for 1000 words
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 13:35:46 GMT
Organization: epix.net
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <58h4n0$1ks@news1.epix.net>
References: <32ad699a.2444388@news.sprynet.com> <19961208171000.MAA14613@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: gmfoster@epix.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: qrvl-67ppp187.epix.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

:In article <32ad699a.2444388@news.sprynet.com>, ssl@loganact.com (Scott
:Logan) writes:

:>I vote for zipping them, saves a bunch on connect time.  Even with
:>unlimited connect time from the ISP, some of us still pay for the
:>phone call.  Plus, I've got better things to do than sit and watch a
:>download in progress.  If they are zipped, we should also provide an
:>unzipping tool on the site for the various platforms.
:>
:>

:Not sure but I suspect JPEG would compress equal or better than ZIP. That
:way they are not platform specific, are they?

:Peter

It kinda hurts to say this but I agree with Peter.

It would be a lot easier to leave graphics as graphics. 

Garry



From ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA Tue Dec 17 14:26:19 EST 1996
Article: 44436 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.bctel.net!news.pinc.com!freenet.victoria.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud233
From: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Subject: Re: Magnifier for shop
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: vifa1
Message-ID: <E257nz.Dx1@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (News Manager)
Reply-To: ud233@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Steve Rayner)
Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada
References: <32aee90c.280710799@news.islandnet.com>  
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:55:11 GMT
Lines: 27


Headband types like the versitor are handy.  A jewelers loupe with 5 & 10 
power is good to have.  I have the kind of loupe that clips onto eye glasses,
which is very convenient.



In a previous article, psh@islandnet.com (Jens) says:

>I am curious what kind of magnification people use in their shops for
>inspecting cutting surfaces etc.
>I was thinking of getting something with a 10X magnification but since
>there are 7,20,30,40 and other powers available I figured I better ask
>here first.
>Any other thought on what type to get ? I was thinking about a loope
>type but again, there are a lot of different choices.
>
>PS.: I am sure this will be much more interesting to people than
>picking up the import bashing thread again :)
>
>Jens
>

-- 
Steve. 

******************Knowledge is wasted if it is not shared.*******************


From rreil@micron.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:20 EST 1996
Article: 44437 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.micron.net!news
From: "Ron Reil" <rreil@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building Tools..
Date: 15 Dec 1996 02:05:28 GMT
Organization: Home
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <01bbea2c$75b86520$2e7950ce@Rreil.micron.net>
References: <58t7s4$ika@lori.albany.net>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

You will have a lot of fun doing the work, and you will be able to do some
interesting work with your shop when finished. Don't expect the tools you
build to compare with good commercial tools though. For a home project I
think that the whole series would be a great project. I am a blacksmith,
but do foundry work too, and that is what Gingery bases all his designs on.
I would suggest you try some foundry work to see what you think of it
first. There is more to it than first meets the eye.
-- 


                          *** Golden Age Forge and Foundry ***
                  Primary:         rreil@micron.net
                  Secondary:   rreil@juno.com
                  Home Page:
http://www.sd01.k12.id.us/schools/west/teachers/reil/index.html



From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:22 EST 1996
Article: 44438 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!204.74.114.90!news.genuity.net!news.silcom.com!usenet
From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:55:14 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <32B3AEE2.6C3D@silcom.com>
References: <58s9f6$9n3@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <32b33ead.0@mothra.westworld.com>
Reply-To: elliot@hitide.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm2-1.sba.silcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0Gold (Win95; I)

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> 
> cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:
> 
> >Hi everyone.
> 
> >I have some questions on boring holes and on sherline carbide insert tools.
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> I have never used any of the Sherline tools but would offer
> the following from my own experience.
My 2 cents worth:
I make boring bars from whatever steel rod is around and just a little
smaller than the hole.  I have a lot of old carbide (wood) saw blade,
uncement the teeth with a torch, they are brazed on.  Take a tooth, and
rotate it to an angle you want the edges to be at, and braze it into a
notch on the steel rod.  
This only takes a few minutes.  The carbide might have to be sharpened a
little, but generally takes torch heat well. 
You can make either boring bars or internal threading tools this way.
Some machinists I know make the boring bar out of carbide (SiC, not WC).
This has a much higher strength to weight ratio than steel, so the
resonant frequency is higher than a steel bar.
I find torch work lots of fun, and finding interesting ways to use
carbide amusing.

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From white@obwon.kodak.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:23 EST 1996
Article: 44439 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.emf.net!overload.lbl.gov!agate!spool.mu.edu!news.sgi.com!sdd.hp.com!frankensun.altair.com!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!news.kodak.com!newsserver.rdcs.Kodak.COM!obwon.kodak.com!WHITE
From: white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed White, SMO Administration - 63552)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 9" South Bend
Date: 8 Dec 1996 01:30:41 GMT
Organization: Site Management Info Services, Eastman Kodak
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <58d5o1$2vm@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
Reply-To: white@obwon.kodak.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: obwon.kodak.com

I recently purchased a 9" South Bend Lathe, model "c". It came without
a motor. It also came without any printed information. Can anyone tell 
me what horsepower and speed motor I should install?


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:24 EST 1996
Article: 44440 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 40 Tonnes to crack a nut
Date: 9 Dec 1996 15:15:47 GMT
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Abrasha:

In reply to my posting I had many interesting, and some very
odd and some very funny replies. 

I will file your into the category, of the most original reply
received so far, keep up the good work.

I had suggestions from the good forum audience, to make jewelery,
to stamp a weather cock. or to ship to Peru- for a good cause.

We still like to hear from people, who would like to have their
goods manufactured and sold under license in Europe.

                  You have the idea, and we have "Daisy",
                 who loves to get her teeth into some metal.


Alberto

PS:

I realy liked your cool  jewelry, as found on http://www.abrasha.com






From clarke@acheron.cilia.org Tue Dec 17 14:26:26 EST 1996
Article: 44441 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: clarke@acheron.cilia.org (Ed Clarke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Way too much cycling of compressor motor
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:21:05 GMT
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In article <19961209155200.KAA14488@ladder01.news.aol.com>, vantonova@aol.com wrote:
>surplus electronics store. It is labled as a "adjustable pressure switch
>25-250 PSI". So I wire everything and when the pressure is reached, the
>motor starts turning on and off in 1 second intervals. I blew a 100A fuse!
>What have I done wrong? Thank you for your help.

No hysteresis.  You want it to start at 90 psi or less and cut off at 120
(for example).  If this isn't adjustable on your switch, go buy another 
one of a different sort.



From RMWEPP@ccmail.exe Tue Dec 17 14:26:27 EST 1996
Article: 44442 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Roger M Weppelman <RMWEPP@ccmail.exe>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Die Filer Files
Date: 9 Dec 1996 16:56:37 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company
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Darrell Collins <dcollin@goodnet.com> wrote:
>Where can I find files for a Keller Model No. 1A Die-Filer?
>


Look in the current MSC catalog under "M" for Machine Files (don't ask me to 
explain the listing!). I also have the Keller 1A and the MSC "straight sided machine 
files" work fine. As a side note, the ones I got were made in England.

Roger Weppelman



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:26:28 EST 1996
Article: 44443 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welder advice
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 08:11:21 GMT
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donahue@continet.com (Gavin Donahue) wrote:

>I plan to buy a TIG welder to weld light CrMo tube (bicycle tubing). Does
>anyone have experience with this process and have an opinion about
>specific machines that would help guide my purchase. I have gas welded
>thin steel but never used a TIG torch. Any insights into this process will
>be helpful. I did read the FAQ but I'm curious about first hand experience
>with specific machines. Is the specific torch style a major factor in
>being able to get at mitered joints?
>I'm also interested in fillet brazing of this material. Any bicycle
>builders out there that would be able to tell me the relative merits of
>the two techniques?

If you're good with gas welding you'll do just fine with TIG, probably
even better.  Certainly was my experience, I get beautiful, strong
welds with the TIG, but many of my oxy-acetylene welds were only
strong, not very pretty.  

The torch style doesn't seem much of a factor in getting to tight
spots/mitered joints, but you'll probably need a gas lense so you can
extend the tungsten to get into the deeper corners.  Doing mitered
joints (at least for me) is much easier with the TIG than with gas
welding.  The only real trick to TIG welding is clean, clean, clean
the metals to be joined.  Dirty metal won't weld well at all.  If
you're going to be using the welder on a production basis consider a
water-cooled torch, otherwise the air-cooled should be just fine.

As far as brazing goes (on bicycles) I know that it is common for
attaching brake mounting studs, but I don't know if the frame is
normally assembled that way.

See Garfields post in the "Miller Tig welders" thread, he has very
good info on selection of the welder (IMO).

-Reckless
Happy owner of a Lincoln Square-Wave 175.  The foot-pedal power
control is very cool to use.



From billg63475@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:29 EST 1996
Article: 44444 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need cmm controller
Date: 15 Dec 1996 08:27:39 GMT
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In article <850584772.20840@dejanews.com>, JSTANGE@LL.NET writes:

>allow a pc to act as a DRO

You might try contacting Ahha! They have a software package that will read
encoders and give you a digital readout on the pc monitor.



( Disclaimer........I am a user and occasional re-seller of Ahha
products!)

Please contact them directly at 612-641-1797.


The following is a copy of an email I received offering dro software:
(Disclaimer....I am not affiliated with the author, I am only offering
this information as it applies to the original posting. I have no
experience with the program.)

I also believe that Peter Nolan was graciously offering some software he
developed for use with the mouse type encoders for free. 
(Disclaimer....I am not affiliated with the author, I am only offering
this information as it applies to the original posting. I have no
experience with the program.)

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


From: Steve Lindsay <slindsay@woody.lopernet.net>
Subject: DRO302.ZIP      Digital ReadOut for 5V encoders via LPT port

I have written a shareware DRO program for 5v encoders and
wondered if you would make it available on your www page.

Description:
DRO302.ZIP      Digital ReadOut for 5V encoders via LPT port
1118628 bytes

DRO version 3.02 is a computer digital readout for linear movement or for 
rotary (degrees, minutes, secs.) movement.  Reads via the printer port
quadrature 
square wave 5V encoders that can be used to control mechanical movement.
A hardware interface is required that consists of only two transistors per

encoder.  Text and wiring diagrams (gif files) are supplied to help you
make 
your own.  It also shows an idea to convert linear movement to rotary for 
rotary encoders.

Features:
Read up to three encoders simultaneously.
Reads 4 times the resolution of the encoder by counting all changes per 
cycle of the quadrature inputs.
Reset, Preset.
Absolute master mode and four incremental modes.
User selectable between Linear and rotary readouts.
User customizable unit to count by for each encoder.
Six places right of the decimal point resolutions possible.
Linear backlash compensation.
Millimeter to inch and inch to millimeter conversion.
Reads from most 5V encoders with quadrature square wave output.

Requirements:
IBM compatible, DOS, VGA or EGA
Bi-directional parallel port

ShareWare:  Uploaded by author.


I  have uploaded 
DRO302.ZIP  to www.Coast.NET (big shareware site)
but it probably won't be available for a few days until
the sysop checks it.  It is suppose to go to this directory:
http://www.coast.net/SimTel/msdos/robotics.html 
I also uploaded it to a couple of other sites in their incoming 
directory.   I went looking for random ftp sites that let you 
download from their incoming directory.
They are:
ftp://ftp.dcs.qmw.ac.uk/incoming/distrib/DRO302.zip
ftp://ftp.twi.tudelft.nl/incoming/DRO302.zip
The second site is lots faster than the first.


Thanks for your consideration!

Steve


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:31 EST 1996
Article: 44445 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: billg63475@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC wars
Date: 15 Dec 1996 21:48:11 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <5910mv$klj@juliana.sprynet.com>, 103334,36@compuserve.com (Dan
Falck) writes:

>I wanted to make a comment about the Ahha, Sherline CNC, >Microkinetics
debate that I saw on this group over the last month.

I guess that the "wars" must have been pretty entertaining for those who
were just watching!

In the begining I too had started with dancad / cam. I have always told
those who were interested that the software did in fact work, it just
wasnt that user friendly. I even used the optimizer program that Dan Mauch
offered as well. 

The most rudimentary CNC system will allow the machine to make parts very
easily that would be very tough if not impossible to make manually.

For anyone starting out on a low cost CNC project, this is a very good
place to start. You will learn a lot about all aspects of building,
setting up and programing your machine. 

It is also important to recognize the differences in the various packages
as well as the levels of support and functionality that are offered
ESPECIALLY when comparing these products. 

There have been several different companies that have come and gone in
this business. It seems that even Mr Hudgins has given up or isnt able to
continue to support  his program.  " (freeware- now that Dan Hudgins
doesn't support it anymore- I know because I have corresponded with him) "
This is not a high volume business and if you dont price your product
accordingly it is hard to stay in business for very long if you want to
contine to support and update your products.

Bill



From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:33 EST 1996
Article: 44446 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:28:01 -0500
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> 
> Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
> wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
> cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
> 
> God bless America
> 
> Alberto from London
Except for highly talented people with way too much spare time you buy
the pellets.  And the same fireplace shop that sells the pellets sells,
you guessed it, the stove.  And the price for all this, let's just say
you had better be seated first.

Brian


From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:34 EST 1996
Article: 44447 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:34:54 -0500
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32B3B82E.230E@bellsouth.net>
References: <32B10835.20A5@bellsouth.net> <58tk72$8ig@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net> <32bedd8b.103534254@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
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To: Garfield <garfield@pilgrimhouse.com>

> The EconoTigs ARE good units, and widely used; it appears the Lincoln is
> just a next generation product that for the moment has it over the
> Miller by a tad.
> 
> Garfield
> 
> P.S. Nope, no connection to nothin; don't even own stock in Lincoln. 8)
What is the price difference in the EconoTig and the sq-175.  The
EconoTig runs about 1300 dollars in the catalogs and might could be
bought for 1200-1250.  Most welding supply houses in the Atlanta area
tend to deal mostly with Miller and that is what I see the most of.

Thanks

Brian


From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:36 EST 1996
Article: 44448 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:32:46 -0500
Lines: 26
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Brian & Angie Vaughn wrote:
> 
> bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> >
> > Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
> > wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
> > cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
> >
> > God bless America
> >
> > Alberto from London
> Except for highly talented people with way too much spare time you buy
> the pellets.  And the same fireplace shop that sells the pellets sells,
> you guessed it, the stove.  And the price for all this, let's just say
> you had better be seated first.
> 
> Brian


My wife saw one at a home show one time and thought it was a neat idea,
untill we found out that it would cost at least $2000 for the stove (and
the legs, and the fire safe pad, and the piping, and...)

Brian


From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:37 EST 1996
Article: 44449 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:42:19 -0500
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> I had a very freightening experience with ...
> 
> In this case however, it was a cold weld and the whole
> ball/stud assembly came out looking almost like new and left
> me rolling down the road at 45 mph with exactly no physical
> connection between the rotation of the steering wheel about
> the steering shaft centerline and the angular orientation of
> the front wheels!

> When I had it repaired, I ground off the excess weld and
> prepared the joint.  My amature research into the "right
> way" to weld that joint suggested I had neither the
> equipment or the skill to do it properly.  I had it welded
> by a certified professional welder.  He preheated it because
> it is a severly constrained joint, TIG welded it top and
> bottom, stress relieved it after he was done, and then after
> cleaning it up used liquid penetrant to be sure there was no
> cracking.  Belt and suspenders maybe, but I had no more
> problems.
> 
> Fitch

You are correct that the ball comes with a stud as one piece.  I drilled
the hole for the new ball and put a chamfer on both sides for the guy to
get a good weld.  How he finished it from there I don't know and am not
really concerned.  The guy retired as a welder for Delta Air Lines and
probably knows every problem that could arise from different situations
and did what was needed.  He has done quite a bit of welding for me in
the past and not one problem has risen.  I realize that my description
of the ball and stud in the earlier post wasn't correct as to the exact
repair.  All that I was trying to do was illustrate the size or the
thickness of the material so people could judge if the EconoTig had the
power to do that kind of repair.

I do hope that when the car is finished my Sunday happy go lucky
afternoon sprints are more in the line of what would be considered
"normal".  But the brakes will be rebuilt to as good as or better than
when the car rolled off the assembly line the first time.  I have an
uncle that is somewhat of a packrat and his favorite saying is "Never
know, might need them sometime!" 

I had to snip a lot of Fitch's story because I got an error saying I had
to have more typed in my mesage that the original.  Sorry if this takes
this out of context.

Brian


From raybre@ozemail.com.au Tue Dec 17 14:26:38 EST 1996
Article: 44450 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: raybre@ozemail.com.au (Ray Breakwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 05:19:53 +1100
Organization: Bit of a shamble
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In article <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk>,
dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk wrote:

> The moving finger of Bruce Roland <brucer@interport.net> having
> written:
> 
> >"One more time - with feeling".  Can anybody give me some ideas for the
> >contruction of the gyro (particularly the bearings)?
> 
> Take a small amount of cash and a good surplus shop. All the best
> gyroscopes I've seen have been from missiles. I have a really nice air
> blast gyro ...etc

Hey, _I've_  got  one like that ! It came from a WW2 bomber ... It has
"Directional Gyro"
and other info on the front. It's in an alloy case of about a 6" cube. If
I run the reverse 
vacuum cleaner through it it 'whines' up to extremely high revs and ,
after operating the
'set/release' knob, I can walk anywhere around the house to have the dial
return exactly to
it's original setting. ( Pretty stupid excercise, I admit  :-)   )  

Just a bit of useless trivia !!  I thought only myself and my kids ( when
younger) were interested
 in this sort of stuff.

So I agree with the above writer. If you want an "advanced" gyroscope, a
military 'disposal'
outlet would _have_ to be a good way to go.

....-Ray.

-- 


  " The tide ebbs and flows......but the sea _is_..... always! " 



            __o            ³ Perfect speed                           
          _`\<,_                is Œbeing there¹  ²
 ~~  (@)/ (@)                            - Chiang Seagull.
^#~^+=+²#~~^^+~~+==^v^^^##~^^


Ray Breakwell              raybre@ozemail.com.au   
Central Coast
NSW. Australia.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:39 EST 1996
Article: 44451 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Waterjet project
Date: 9 Dec 1996 21:16:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32acde63.343517976@news.islandnet.com>, psh@islandnet.com
(Jens) writes:

>You are welcome but I still think you would be nutty trying to build
>one of these when commercial units are available so cheaply.
>Save some time and efford and build something that can't be bought for
>a few dollars or can't be bought at all.
>
>

Agreed!

Peter



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:40 EST 1996
Article: 44452 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WhAt'S a LoGaN
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 17:54:05 -0500
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To: "Reg H. Beardsley" <xcprhb@oryx.com>

Reg H. Beardsley wrote:

> BuT WiLL hE GivE You the SamE sErVice If YoUR NAme Is NoT LoGaN ? <g>


reg

how do you know that scott logan would get 
better service than somebody else?
have you spoken to someone that i have done wrong?
probably not (but you never know, i am not perfect)

anyhow why don't you ask a few people in the ng that i have done
bussiness with (whose last names are not LoGaN) if i have treated them
****MORE*** than fairly

(1) bill rittner>>>>  WRitt@aol.com
(2) dave erickson>>>  davide@RATIONAL.com 


regards
andy (square deal) popky


From stagesmith@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:26:41 EST 1996
Article: 44453 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!mr.net!nntp.earthlink.net!cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net!user
From: stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie Leimkuhler)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:03:41 -0700
Organization: Stagesmith Productions
Lines: 80
Message-ID: <stagesmith-1512960103460001@cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
References: <32B10835.20A5@bellsouth.net> <58tk72$8ig@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net> <32bedd8b.103534254@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net

In article <32bedd8b.103534254@santaclara01.news.internex.net>,
garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:

> On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:06:04 GMT, reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY
> (Reckless) wrote:
> 
> >Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >
> >>I would like some opinions regarding the Econotig and the 250.  What I
> >>have in mind is mostly sheet metal up to about 14 guage.....
> 
> <Reckless replies>
> >I have a Lincoln Square-Wave 175 which I am happy with.  What capacity
> >is the "Econotig"?  I would have liked the 350 amp model, but I don't
> >have a big enough power panel and I didn't have that kind of money
> >(paid $1400US for the 175).  Sheet metal will be very easy to weld,....
> 
> Hey Brian. Hey Reck.
> 
> I too bought the Lincoln Square-Wave after researching both; there are
> two reasons, Brian, why you might want to consider the SQ175:
> 
> 1.      The Econotig has two ranges of heat, and the foot pedal does not
> continuously vary over that range, like the SQ does. On the EcTig the
> pedal is just on & off; the power within the range is knob-set. 

Okay this part is dead wrong, but the rest is correct.

>On the
> SQ, whatever MAX power you dial in, then the foot control is a
> proportional controller over that range...lots more control, and
> especially on the fly. One more thing, the lowest amp on the SQ is much
> lower than the EcTig: min = 12A on SQ vrs. min = 20A on the EcTig.
> THIS can be very important for thin SHEET METAL work. You can set max at
> say 25A, start at 25A and immediately pedal down to say 18A. Nice.
snip
> The EconoTigs ARE good units, and widely used; it appears the Lincoln is
> just a next generation product that for the moment has it over the
> Miller by a tad.

I've had my Econotig for almost 3 years, and although it has done stalwart
service, I will be the first to sing its praises and lament it's
shortcomings.
The main problem with the Econotig is that the pedal is always covering
the entire power range ( 0 - 170 amps high, and 0 - 120 amps low ).
This makes fine control a matter of extended practice and steady nerves.
The other thing that bugs me is that it only has a High and Low in AC,
which is fine for Aluminum, but when welding thin steel or bandsaw blades
it makes the pedal a very touchy affair.
I recently got a big herkin' choke coil to run in line with the ground,
and that that works to neck down the power, but once again it only works
on AC.
I have found that by running the smallest tungsten available ( 1/32" ), I
was able to get slightly better control on really thin steel,  but the
those tiny tungstens fry really fast.
The lack of a true high frequency isn't actually that bad if you run a
Helium/ Argon mix.
For the money NOW I would probably look at the Lincoln, but 3 years ago
there was no other option for a small portable TIG.

My advice is always to test drive any machine before buying.
In spite of whether or not the Lincoln has more bells and whistles, if it
isn't nice to use, who needs it.
Even though I have recently purchased a BIG TIG, I will keep my Econotig
for its portability.
The portability is very important for the movie work I do in Seattle.
It is really nice to have a TIG that I can roll up a ramp into my toyota
pickup, by myself.

-- 
Best of luck

*********************************************************************
                            Ernie Leimkuhler
                   STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS
                     Custom Metal Fabrication
       ABANA       AWS        SCA        IATSE Local 15/488
                        Renton, Washington, USA
*********************************************************************
" 'Reverse primary thrust, Marvin,' that's what they say to me, 'open airlock number three, Marvin. Marvin, can you pick up that piece of paper?' Can I pick up that piece of paper! Here I am, brain the size of a planet, and they ask me to ...." - Douglas_Adams


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:26:42 EST 1996
Article: 44454 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:28:58 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <5906ct$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B0C68E.575@cyberhighway.net>
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Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:

>VAntonova wrote:
>> 
>> I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
>> that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. ...

>Get a clampon ammeter on the line and see what amps the unit is pulling.
>If below the nameplate it SHOULD be safe.  If at or above the nameplate
>amps start looking for the problem.
> 
>-- 
>Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Good advise, here's a few more thoughts:

Check the incoming voltage as well.  A 230V motor on 208V doesn't put
out full HP and does run extra warm.  Undersized and/or long supply
lines or dirty connectors can cause low voltage at the motor. 

BTW, too hot to touch is normal for a 50C rise motor.  Did you smell
burning insulation or paint?  If you did, it was definitely too hot.

-Reckless



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:43 EST 1996
Article: 44455 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: here it comes!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 19:39:49 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 20
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To: Roger Loving <rogerlov@ix.netcom.com>

i suspect you will get manyyyyyyyyyyyyy responses to this one

jet is usually made in CHINA
they are usually a *low* end machine (sorry peter)
make sur it is a r-8 spindle
i have seen some with morse taper  not good
is he charging extra for the optional bent lead screw??

that screw may or may not be hard to come by
will probably cost a couple of hundred bucks
if the nachine is in decent shape then i would offer him $500 or less
they are not the most popular machine out there
if you are willing to do the repair yourself then it is most likely
worth it, i have sold them (without the option you have) for $1,500.00

show the guy some green stuff and he will probably cut you a deal


regards
andy popky


From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 14:26:44 EST 1996
Article: 44456 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!206.202.0.9!municipal.maf.mobile.al.us!ns1!not-for-mail
From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 00:29:16 GMT
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <58iass$q2v@municipal.maf.mobile.al.us>
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Andy Dingley (dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: You're fortunate in that you don't need a vacuum here, just a pressure
: reduced from that in the bubbles. It's nothing like the quality of
: vacuum you'd need for laser work.

I've been looking at these posts and pondering the time I wasted $15 
worth of room temperature vulcanizing compound (making molds for lost 
wax) because my vacuum pump wasn't working right and would only pull 27 
lb. of vacuum. It might be worthwhile to look up some local jewelry caster 
and wheedle some vacuum caster time from them so as to watch your 
compound and see when the bubbles come up and break. You could watch the 
vacuum gauge and tell exactly how much pressure you need. 

It may be that you can do with low vacuum that a refrigerator compressor can 
give (I have a friend who works at a fiberglass shop and they regularly vacuum 
bag boat hulls with low vacuum) or it may be your compound will need more 
vacuum than just a refrigerator compressor running backwards. But why 
risk wasting a batch experimenting?

Georgie





From hemp4peas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:46 EST 1996
Article: 44457 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!agate!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: hemp4peas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: machining
Date: 10 Dec 1996 02:13:30 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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HELP!!!  I am an engineering student searching for information on
machining plastics. I realize that this is for metal working , But this
was the only newsgroup I could find that was even close. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
hemp4peas@aol.com


From jcranegt90@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:47 EST 1996
Article: 44458 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jcranegt90@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: AOL problems
Date: 10 Dec 1996 03:30:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <19961210033000.WAA03739@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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i have had some prob . mostly at peak use time .they had a note at member
services about e-mail and any attached files getting lost in the sys. or
just plain not working at all .but that has been 2 or 3 days ago.  iam in
the central florida area and havealso had prob. logging on the sys.i get
buzy sig. or a recording that this is not a working number. jamie

jcranegt90


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:49 EST 1996
Article: 44459 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: SIZE OF PELLETS
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:02:31 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32B48387.261B@ix.netcom.com>
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CC: bohigas@aol.com

the pellets are in the shape of a football
but smaller of course.
the size is as follows:
1.312" long
..437" dia
4.2875" radius across the chord
all tolerances + - .005
the best wood to use is aged doug fir
no less than 2 years but no more than 5 years


best regards
ap

may the swartz be with you


From kpinkert@super.zippo.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:50 EST 1996
Article: 44460 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!newsgate.duke.edu!newshost.convex.com!bcm.tmc.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!super.zippo.com!zdc!szdc!szdc-e!news
From: kpinkert@super.zippo.com (Kevin Pinkerton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old Fashioned Anvil?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 01:23:08 GMT
Organization: Zip News
Lines: 9
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On 9 Dec 1996 06:18:46 GMT, "Kerry Lange" <kdl@IslandNet.com> wrote:

>A friend of mine, who doesn't have Internet access, is looking for an old
>fashioned anvil.  Does anyone know where he can get one.  He lives in
>Vancouver, BC, Canada and if anyone knows of one near there, please e-mail
>me.
>
They are hard to find! I almost got a 200 pounder for $100, but I
could not get the the guys house fast enough! Good luck!


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:52 EST 1996
Article: 44461 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:07:05 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
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References: <Web-2111961717140001@dialup110.bv.sgi.net> <572m02$j6j@camel1.mindspring.com> <329EB71A.5315@aol.com> <c37cc$c3116.31a@NEWS> <32A828D8.7C80@roe.ac.uk> <c77cc$11211e.380@MYCROFT> <58ij57$ojb@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <32ACFF64.30FD@gramercy.ios.com> <32B3E154.3040@aol.com>
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 I have sent a complaint to AOL regarding this jerk as well as a copy
of his message and a list of the newsgroups he cross-posted to.

We'll see what their resonse is.

If their not responsive enough there are other ways of handling jerks
like this.

On Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:30:28 -1000, Davoman <Davo147@aol.com> wrote:

>I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
>I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
>Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
>To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
>FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!



From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:26:53 EST 1996
Article: 44462 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gossip.urich.edu!news.eff.org!news.umbc.edu!news.ums.edu!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!super.zippo.com!zdc!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:48:16 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <5907h3$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <32B10835.20A5@bellsouth.net> <32b33ea6.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

>It pays big dividends to be really fussy about some things,
>weld repairs on Model A steering gear is one of them.

I agree entirely that steering/braking components of cars are
definitely not for the inexperienced, or even for the experienced
without the right tools.

-Reckless
Waiting till I learn enough to make new spindle arms for my '63 Chevy
(it has '69 spindles/arms and the arms hang to low making for major
bumpsteer).



From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:54 EST 1996
Article: 44463 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 15 Dec 1996 13:25:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 12
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With all the recommendations abot E6013 rod, I cannot let this go by
without mentioning E6011.  Sparks like a day in hell, but penetrates, and
will work overhead fine.  Just keep yor hat on, and anything vital
covered!!!!!!!!!

Been welding since I was 10 years old, now  I collect old welders
(machines)  Got a Forney that is my favorite one, however I have a
Craftsmen that weighs about 300 # and stands up 4 ft tall.  250 amp.   My
3 phase Linde Mig welder is my favorite wire welder though.  3 phase just
works smoother.

Cecil in OK


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:56 EST 1996
Article: 44464 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:20:52 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 16:42:23 -0800, Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net>
wrote:

>Paradox wrote:
>> 
>> Somehow... not quite sure how, I convinced my wife that owning a small
>> milling machine would reduce the amount of time I spend in front of my
>> 'puter... :) she bought it!
>> 
>> Soooo... guess what I'm getting for Christmas :))))))))
>>
	.
	.
	. 
>>
>
>
>I need to know this guys secret..
>Tony
>:-)

Simple, really...
I use to spend a LOT  of time doing ACTUAL work on my 'puter and quite
a bit of time in IRCand she always hated that medium... it was sorta
like I was hangin out with a bunch of friends and she wasn't
inincluded.

She was tickled pink when our new house was built and I started
getting excited about having my shop/studio back (after 6 years and 6
relocations - during which I had no access to my shop/studio.

Almost anything I ask for  regarding my shop is OK by her now... she
feels she has the artist/husband back that she married in the first
place :)))



From mermac@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:57 EST 1996
Article: 44465 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.akorn.net!news.his.com!in1.nntp.cais.net!news.abs.net!news.bconnex.net!feed1.news.erols.com!hunter.premier.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: mermac@ix.netcom.com(Dave Ficken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 23:27:31 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <58krl3$5d4@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <19961210150000.KAA18102@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961210163000.LAA20312@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In <19961210163000.LAA20312@ladder01.news.aol.com> plalbrecht@aol.com
writes: 
>
>I just called Clausing. They have parts lists for the shapers (not
that
>anything is still available, mind you) but say they were shipped
without
>user manuals. Does anybody have any other manufacturer's documentation
for
>these critters? An accessory list/catalog would be nice too; they must
>have had some goodies to go with it. Seems to me they must have had a
user
>manual of some sort. 
>
>I'd be glad to pay for a photocopy to see what I'm getting into here.
>
>Pete

Pete,
 Some of the acessories for the atlas shaper can be seen in some of
their early sales brochures. I believe I have one that shows lathes,
mills, shapers all in one brochure. If you or anyone else wants a
photocopy, I will be glad to do it- provided you can wait till the new
year as I am real busy moving my store.
 Also, for a great book on Shaper operations, don't miss "How to Run A
Shaper" by Southbend.
 Don't worry about wether or not Clausing has parts available. You can
find them in the used market. I think I probably have enough parts
floating around to build one from scratch.
 Regards,
 Dave Ficken
 Meridian Machinery
 http://hre.com/meridian

 


From honda@icon.co.za Tue Dec 17 14:26:58 EST 1996
Article: 44466 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-24.sprintlink.net!hermes.is.co.za!news
From: honda@icon.co.za (Paul Hurst Nicholson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is Duralumin?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 18:36:12 GMT
Organization: No organisation supplied
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32b2f390.118156@news.icon.co.za>
References: <57vb3k$2e3@soap.news.pipex.net>
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On 2 Dec 1996 19:36:20 GMT, Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
wrote:

>An earlier posting asks what is  aircraft aluminium. My question is 
>similar, what is Dural.
>
>Is Dural a trade name, that refers to a particular grade of aluminium, 
>
>I have seen the term "Made from Dural" giving the impression that is is a 
>special grade. High Tensile grade?
>
>I have seen this term used in a magazine on mountain bikes, a lot of the 
>accesories are described as made from Dural.
>
>Thanks   Lionel
>

Duralumin is an alloy  alluminum and I think copper. Anyway it s the
alloy of aluminum used in the the manufacture of aircraft. It
definately has better strenghth properties than pure aluminum but is
slightly heavier. 


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:26:59 EST 1996
Article: 44467 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Pipe thread standards?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <tphares-1412960225030001@lincoln.hip.berkeley.edu>
Organization: DAA-DAA
Message-ID: <01bbea0d$698021e0$91e4cbcc@armstdaa>
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Date: 14 Dec 96 22:25:15 GMT
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All pipe sizes have both an ANSI B2.1 taper thread and an American Standard
Straight Pipe Thread.  While we do commonly see the taper pipe and fittings
for water piping, the straight thread also has many common applications. 
One popular use for the 1/8 inch size is with lamp hardware.  Other
applications include non-pressure tight joints such as free fitting
mechanical joints for quick assembly and other applications like filler
plugs and hose couplings.  Your garden hose is actually a 3/4 straight pipe
fitting.  In this case, the seal is accomplished with a gasket.  Some
electrical conduit hardware also employs the straight pipe thread.
- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com


Theodore Henry Phares <tphares@uclink.berkeley.edu> wrote in article
<tphares-1412960225030001@lincoln.hip.berkeley.edu>...
> Hi,
> 
> I have a vacuum cup with a 1/8" dia. nipple coming out of it. 
> Unfortunately, the nipple is not threaded NPT, and I can't figure out
what
> it is.  It's close to 1/8" NPT, but not quite.  Could it be NPS?  Or is
> there another pipe thread standard w/o a taper?  Is NPS usually used on
> pneumatic/vacuum stuff like this?  To confuse the situation, I have some
> coiled air line that has NPT fittings.  
> 
> So, I have to ask:
> 
> When and where is NPT used?  When is NPS used?
> 
> Are there common U.S. pipe thread standards in addition to NPT and NPS? 
> How about metric?
> 
> Can anyone suggest any references?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -- 
> ted phares
>  human engineering laboratory
>   department of mechanical engineering
>    university of california at berkeley
>     me.berkeley.edu/hel
> 


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:00 EST 1996
Article: 44468 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com> <19961214155200.KAA24923@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Organization: DAA-DAA
Message-ID: <01bbea0d$ff8b1500$91e4cbcc@armstdaa>
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155
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Mixing paints can be interesting.  I once mixed the wrong lacquer thinner
into a pint of automotive lacquer and got a pint size lump (in the can)
before I even got the stick swirled around more than a few strokes.
-- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com

pnpnolan@aol.com wrote in article
<19961214155200.KAA24923@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> In article <32B1F739.78B7@cris.com>, "Christopher J. Galbraith"
> <cjg1@cris.com> writes:
> 
> >Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
> >(I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??
> >
> >
> 
> I once accidently created hammertone by adding the wrong thinner to auto
> paint. It looked like hammertone in the can and it came out that way on
> the 55 Volkswagon. It dried OK and lasted just fine. Can't recall what I
> mixed with what but I think it was a one coat enamel auto finish and I
> mixed laquer thinners with it. Almost positive that was the mix. Give it
a
> try. I know it was and enamel finish as I had no way of buffing a laquer
> finish. 
> 
> Peter
> 
> 


From armstdaa@3-cities.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:01 EST 1996
Article: 44469 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Dennis A. Armstrong" <armstdaa@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: Stone Settings, Cabachone Mountings?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <19961213231000.SAA27681@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58usqo$6id@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
Organization: DAA-DAA
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Date: 14 Dec 96 22:35:10 GMT
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Another real fine source for jewelry stuff is 
Rio-Grande Jewelry Supply
6901 Washington NE
Albuquerque, NM  87109
800-545-6566
-- 
Dennis A. Armstrong
armstdaa@3-cities.com

David Fogg <"gemcutter@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<58usqo$6id@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
> BeadmanC wrote:
> > 
> > Besides Fire Mountain Gems and River Gems, does anyone have a source
for a
> > wide variety of mountings they don't mind sharing with me?
> > 
> > Thanks a bunch,
> > Deborah
> 
> Try Tripps Mfg.   1-800-545-7962
> You might also subscribe to the Lapidary Journal. You would find many 
> more findings companies in there.
> 


From reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:27:02 EST 1996
Article: 44470 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.pacbell.net!usenet
From: reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 06:33:53 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <5906m5$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <19961213042700.XAA28666@ladder01.news.aol.com> <wwebster-1312960757260001@47.116.15.87> <58rn0tINNmgn@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu>
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powers@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers) wrote:

> In article <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com>, Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> writes:
> 
>>I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
>>asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
>>have for sale.
>>I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
>>Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
>>of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.

>BLAST!  (an exclamation--not an order) ... I was just designing a
>*huge* astrolabe powered by a radial engine to be built out of
>the stuff and now I will have to change my design to make use of
>commercially available adamantite and neutronium........Any suggestions
>on how to machine antimatter on an old logan?

>Thomas  who wanted to forge antimatter but has had problems getting an
>anti-steel anvil....Centaur Forge ran out due to the holiday rush....
>Columbus, OH

Mithril might be more readily available than adamantite.

-Reckless



From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:03 EST 1996
Article: 44471 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:10:09 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <32b3ebeb.11702036@news.sprynet.com>
References: <19961214155100.KAA24900@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961215021000.VAA12925@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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On 15 Dec 1996 02:11:26 GMT, bohigas@aol.com wrote:

>Peter:
>
>I am shure you are probably correct, but in my Spanish English
>technical dictionary it says so, never mind I made good note
>of your comments. And thank you for putting me right !!! 
>
>Translation is a difficult beast, most of the time and I have
>to cope with three languages all the time.

And for the most part, your English as is good or better than some of
the "natives."  Don't feel ashamed.

  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:05 EST 1996
Article: 44472 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!mindspring!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:10:11 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <32b4ecc6.11921386@news.sprynet.com>
References: <32ABA34D.5EE8@worldnet.att.net> <19961209211500.QAA22771@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32AD223D.6667@intnet.net> <32b0e877.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58t6ae$bea@news.proaxis.com> <32b33e9e.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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On Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:00:33 GMT, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
wrote:

>I've not seen one of these tension meters.   Sounds like a
>good thing to have around.  Does it work based on some sort
>of calibrated & measured force to
>"bend-slightly-in-the-middle-between-two-points" principle?
>
>I'm asking because maybe I can make something like that - a
>screw that pushes against a spring to slightly deform the
>blade between two fixed points, with a measurement of spring
>deflection as the indicator of tension.  It could be
>go-nogo, I wouldn't need more than single point calibration,
>I only use one width and thickness of blade on the metal
>saw.

Fitch,

Though I don't have one, I understand these "tension meters" are
basically an electronic caliper which clamps to the blade when it is
loose.  As the blade is tensioned, the gage measures the "stretch" of
the blade.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:06 EST 1996
Article: 44473 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!mindspring!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying an Older Lathe: How Does One Learn?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:10:13 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 45
Message-ID: <32b5ef42.12557161@news.sprynet.com>
References: <32b322ff.1615835@news.oro.net>
Reply-To: ssl@loganact.com
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:07:52 GMT, fox@oro.net (Andrew Keyser) wrote:

>I'm about to buy a turret lathe, smaller sized, used, non-CNC.
>
>Is there a source that lists the specs for the various brand names of
>older lathes? I've found a few possibilities within 4 hours drive of
>my town, all from different dealers:
>
>Logan "Hardinge-style" variable speed

Well, it looks like I'll have to get something up on our Web site with
the Model No. listings.  Other than that, this seems to be the place
to ask.  There are several dealers who frequent this ng, and someone
is sure to help you on the other machines, but as for the Logan:

I think you are talking about the Logan 7500 Series Chucker.  This was
based on the Logan 14" Lathe, converted to compete with the Hardinge
Chucker.  The Logan, however is slightly larger.

Originally, this lathe would not have had a Tailstock or Compound
Rest.  It would have had an eight position cross slide turret, which
would accept 5/8" tooling.  These were also available with either a
lead screw and QC Gearbox or a DC motorized feed drive.

A Compound Assembly or Tailstock from a 14" Logan Lathe can be fitted
to these Lathes.  One modification will be needed:  The Chucker uses a
larger diameter crossfeed screw, and a different style crossfeed nut,
so a special crossfeed nut would be needed.

Keep in mind that if this is a Lathe with the DC drive, you will not
be able to do single point threading, even with the Compound.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:07 EST 1996
Article: 44474 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.mindspring.com!mindspring!uunet!in2.uu.net!192.220.251.22!netnews.nwnet.net!news-hub.interserv.net!news.sprynet.com!news
From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:10:15 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <32b6f375.13632477@news.sprynet.com>
References: <58vsk8$3ih@news.proaxis.com>
Reply-To: ssl@loganact.com
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On 15 Dec 1996 03:51:36 GMT, Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

>I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up, the 
>old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available. Call your 
>local supplier, guys...

Don't fall for the "existing stock" business.  I spoke to Steco at
this year's IMTS.  They still manufacture the stuff, and any of their
dealers can order it.  WW Grainger stocks it.  MSC says they will not
order it.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From rrice2@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:08 EST 1996
Article: 44475 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rrice2@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help on South Bend Info
Date: 15 Dec 1996 14:28:34 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <19961215142800.JAA00915@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <58id9r$f1n@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>
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In article <58id9r$f1n@kodak.rdcs.Kodak.COM>, white@obwon.kodak.com (Ed
White, SMO Administration - 63552) writes:

>Does anyone know what horsepower motor and rpm would be used on a 9"
>South Bend Model "c". I purchased the lathe without a motor.

Mine has the original motor, a 1/4 hp 1750 rpm motor, and it takes as big
a cut as I need without any problems.


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:09 EST 1996
Article: 44476 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: D.I.Y. Spark Erosion machine
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:14:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <19961215151300.KAA02098@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <19961215015700.UAA12693@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

>Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to
>build a DIY spark erosion machine ?
>
>Your help is much welcome 
>
>Alberto from London
I came across a box full of about 100 400V 40mF capacitors. With charging
and discharging circuitry. They were wired to produce 1000V. Sent chills
up my spine. I guess this is ideal for your EDM project. I don't know much
about EDM, so excuse me if I screwed up. I personally would stay away from
DIY EDM's and plasma cutters. I hate fooling around with hight voltages at
high current. Think about it: exploding transistors and caracitors, fires,
emergancy rooms. Well, enough of this. Just wanted to state my opinion.
The capacitors are at RA Enterprises in San Jose, California.

Alex
Who tasted 50KV at 65mA and doesn't want to do it again. 


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:10 EST 1996
Article: 44477 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions on Clarke 150EN Mig
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:11:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <5914e6$asi@sjx-ixn7.ix.netcom.com>
References: <goaway-ya023580001412962234080001@superego.idcomm.com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Dec 15  7:11:02 AM PST 1996

In <goaway-ya023580001412962234080001@superego.idcomm.com>
goaway@idcomm.com (Steve Schmidt) writes: 
>
>I am considering purchasing a Clarke Turbo 150 EN Mig welder. It is
gasless
>but can be adapted to gas.
>
>Any experiences good or bad?
>
>Thank you,
>Steve

    What kind of work are you considering? 150 - I assume that is amp.
output at some fractional duty cycle - is a litle light for a lot of
common welding jobs. It will handle 1/4" mild steel plate....but you
might want to weld both sides. If you can possibly swing a 200 amp unit
with gas you will have a lot more capacity. The 25% greater amp output
in this case gives you about 50% more ability. I don't think that ratio
holds true at other ranges though. Another thing that is very important
is low amp control. i.e. how low can you go?
                                                Roger L.


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:11 EST 1996
Article: 44478 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:05:48 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 21
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Fellow Metalworkers,
> 
> Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
> wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
> cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
> 
> God bless America
> 
> Alberto from London



You could try to find a Wooden Rabbit. The process then is automated.

Jim "Lepus" Harvey
Harveytherabbit@hre.com
http://hre.com




From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:12 EST 1996
Article: 44479 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:14:18 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32B415CA.3C12@hre.com>
References: <felice.373.32B3A1CC@pioneer.net>
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Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote:
> 
> Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by
> Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
> 
> http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/MC/ColvinSerlll.html



Can you check that URL? Doesn'T seem to work.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:13 EST 1996
Article: 44480 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Opinions on Clarke 150EN Mig
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:03:49 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 21
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Steve Schmidt wrote:
> 
> I am considering purchasing a Clarke Turbo 150 EN Mig welder. It is gasless
> but can be adapted to gas.
> 
> Any experiences good or bad?
> 
> Thank you,
> Steve
> goaway@idcomm.com
> 
> --
> goaway@idcomm.comON the whole, I owuld suggest you stay away from gasless mig machines. 
Gasless Mig is an oxymoron. get a machine that you can run Argon/co2 
through and you'll become a much better welder.

Jim "gasbag" Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com




From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:14 EST 1996
Article: 44481 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need cmm controller
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:30:51 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>I'm trying to build a coordinate measurment machine using my
>pc. It will be built like a bridge type cnc router but will be
>move by my hands. Does anyone know were to get information on 
>the controller card, encoders,and what ever else I need?
>Is there any products that would allow a pc to act as a DRO
>off my bridgeport??
Peter Nolan posted an idea about using computer mouse parts as a DRO. The
software is posted someware, I can't find it for now. The idea is to pull
the little wheels with holes from the mouse, connect one to the X axis,
the other to the Y, and run cables from both to the board in the mouse.
Read the thread "Mickey mouse DRO" By the way, I know a place that has
1024 position encoders for $3. They have about 20 encodes, and all 15 that
I bought worked. They have no idea what they are, and so do the 2 or 3
people that visit the store every week.It's in CA Bay Area, will give you
the adress if you want (I have to find it).

Alex.


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:15 EST 1996
Article: 44482 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:35:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 13
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In article <5900ab$g8t@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil
Crome) writes:

>afternoon with your huge compressors and maniacal grins 8).
>Specifically, how and with what do you paint whatever it is that you
>paint? 
>
>

I use a 2 HP airless paint sprayer with a 8 gal overhead bucket.   It will
spray paint at the rate of abot $250/hour.

Cecil in OK


From Riflewoman@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:16 EST 1996
Article: 44483 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Ashley Palmer <Riflewoman@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a Tapered Hole?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:38:21 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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To: KHJC64B@prodigy.com

A tapered pin reamer might be the ticket.  These vary a little bit from 
the required 5 degree taper, but they are readily available.  



From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:17 EST 1996
Article: 44484 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
Date: 15 Dec 1996 15:39:22 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Fellow Metalworker:

When you good US friends talk about wood pellets, what do you
realy mean ?

What is their size ?
What is their prize by the 100 weight ?

and lastly how are they made ? Are they just pressed,
or sawn from free growing timber.

The closest pellets we can get here, are drop size material, too
small for firing at any case.

So thanks for trying again

Alberto


From rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:27:18 EST 1996
Article: 44485 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rsewell@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Richard Sewell")
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Message-ID: <E2Gnz4.Fr0@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Organization: Compulink Information eXchange
References: <19961214074900.CAA14276@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:21:03 GMT
X-News-Software: Ameol32
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> I lose Starrett
>bimetal blades at the rate of one every couple owf weeks
>when diong heavy cutting - they end up with no teeth on them
>at all,

Mine seems to lose teeth mosty easily when cutting box section - it's 
happy doing the horizontal parts, where there's lots of steel, but on the 
thin verticals it mustn't be allowed too much cutting pressure or the 
teeth break off. 

What sort of sections are you cutting ?


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:19 EST 1996
Article: 44486 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pride in American machines?
Date: 13 Dec 1996 13:45:30 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <01bbe8fa$4eb0d3a0$e11f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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Alberto: ...and the sweetest little dirt racing bike I ever owned was a
Sachs Garelli... Les

bohigas@aol.com wrote in article
<19961213073501.CAA04616@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> Peter:
> 
> Sorry, I was born in Spain and my mother was born in
> Colombia. But as I said, the Ducati had its uses for me.
> <LOL>
> 
> Alberto
> 


From larry@spam.stop.address Tue Dec 17 14:27:21 EST 1996
Article: 44487 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: larry@spam.sucks (Larry)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:43:29 GMT
Organization: Crazy Larry's Home for Wayward Test Equipment & Old Radios
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> I have sent a complaint to AOL regarding this jerk as well as a copy
>of his message and a list of the newsgroups he cross-posted to.

Better if sent to: postmaster@lava.net
>>>NNTP-Posting-Host: ohia025.lava.net

This is just another *lame* troll, produced by someone who is *not*
samrt enough to even forge headers properly....  <sigh>

-Larry
# Please reply to lrware "at" pipeline.com
#
# Killing Spammers *might* be a little extreme,
# Lets try cutting off their hands first!
# It stops thieves in the mideast...
 



From danf@cris.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:22 EST 1996
Article: 44488 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!dciteleport.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!cdc2.cdc.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!news-master!news
From: danf@cris.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.auto.tech,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FS: Mitutoyo Bore Guage(new)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 01:14:08 GMT
Organization: Concentric Internet Services
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.woodworking:170010 rec.crafts.metalworking:44488

Have a Mitutoyo(Japanese) Bore Guage sitting around doing nothing.
Bought when I had more $ than experience and thought I was going to
get into engine rebuilding.

Model 511-911
Plastic case w/26 anvils & 3 "sleeves" w/1  2" extension collar
Guage is graduated in .0005"
Range is .7-6.0"

This is NEW, never used.
Retail is $450, I'll take $275 or trade for computer stuff. Need
Pentium CPU, 28.8 modems, CDROM drives, 72 pin simms or ?

Have no problem w/COD or 3rd party internet payment services. I'll
ship free as long as its not something special. E-mail for voice # if
you like.

Dan
danf@cris.com



From radix@wwnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:23 EST 1996
Article: 44489 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "w.j.ward" <radix@wwnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: 16 Dec 1996 01:11:40 GMT
Organization: The Federal Reserve System, Inc. (A private banking cartel)
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Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com> wrote in article
<32B3AEE2.6C3D@silcom.com>...

...

I have a lot of old carbide (wood) saw blade,
> uncement the teeth with a torch, they are brazed on.  Take a tooth, and
> rotate it to an angle you want the edges to be at, and braze it into a
> notch on the steel rod.  

...

> 
> Elliot Burke
> HighTide Instruments
> elliot@hitide.com
> 

What kind of torch is used for brazing carbide tips?  Does this require an
acetylene torch with oxygen?
-- 
God ==> Man ==> State

W.J.Ward, Redford Twp., Michigan




From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:24 EST 1996
Article: 44490 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: list of fame companies
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:31:30 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Les:

I am very deeply sorry about your personal experience,
and the unemployment your young family is suffering at
this moment in time.

I am running a small engineering company, five employees,
which I have taken over from my father, and every day
is a big struggle to get the work for my lads.

It would break my heart, in deep christian faith,
to make anybody redundant.

I hope you will find work shortly, try to learn a new
skill in the meantime-and all the best for the future.

Alberto Bohigas
>from  London.


PS:
The posting went out in error prior to completion,
I am sorry about this.


From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:26 EST 1996
Article: 44491 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:10:00 GMT
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>Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by 
>Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
Like a moron, I left out part of the address,

>http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/UL/MC/ColvinSerlll.html





From bobmac@compusmart.ab.ca Tue Dec 17 14:27:27 EST 1996
Article: 44492 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: bobmac@compusmart.ab.ca (Bob MacDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: End Mill life
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:28:50 GMT
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	This may be a question without an answer, but I'll ask it anyway. How
much metal can I expect to cut away with an end mill?
	I was building the ajustable tool post featured in the October issue
of PIM. Buy the time I finished my third tool holder the 5/8" (HSS 4
flute made by YG) end mill I was using  was dull. I had set my RPM
according to data published in the back of the Cleveland END MILL
catalogue. Depth of cut was .010", feed rate was very slow. The
materal I was cutting was HRS, 1.5" wide to a depth of .370". The
width of the slot was 1.00" wide.
	Thanks
		Bob




From hollen@axel.vigra.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:29 EST 1996
Article: 44493 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen@axel.vigra.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 16:36:22 GMT
Organization: VisiCom Laboratories, Inc.
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>> Kevin Pinkerton writes:

>> I haven't seen one of these. Can you tell a little more about it?

KP> Go to http://www.drilldr.com/ and see/read all about it. I have been
KP> thinking about getting one myself, but would like to hear some more
KP> comments before I shell out the dough.

I, too, wanted to see more comments, but with so many positive ones
over the past months, I finally got one and am very glad I did.  The
results are SOOO much better than the B&D piece of junk I was using.

One word of caution.  The instructions say this, but IMHO it should be
in bold with arrows and flashing lights, it is too easily overlooked
and it is *critical*.  It says that when sharpening, you should turn
and *lightly* push.  That is very true.  What it does not say is that
if you push too hard, what you get is a bit profile that looks
*nothing* like what it should,  in other words, by pushing too hard,
it is possible to ruin the drill bit.  However, you can just as easily
go back and do it right, and save the drill in a matter of a minute or
so.

So far in the couple of dozen bits I have sharpened, this seems to be
the only shortcoming of the machine.  IMHO, it should be made such
that the operator's *touch* cannot effect the end result, but maybe
that was too much of an engineering feat for a machine at this price
as opposed to Darex's other drill grinding machines.  But, once you do
get the right touch, you can produce an outstanding result.

dion



-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
                                             http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California


From wcottr@worldnet.att.net@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:30 EST 1996
Article: 44494 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bill Cottrell <"wcottr@worldnet.att.net"@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of a P & H TIG
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 08:52:09 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> 
> OK guys I finally found a Big TIG that I could afford.(clip)

Ernie it has been my experience that P&H is short for poor and helpless 
:). I refer to cranes mostly, haven't used one of their welders before, 
good luck with it. I am not jealous, I am not, I am not, I am not :) -- 
Bill


From brooksp@corp.hp.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:31 EST 1996
Article: 44495 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: brooksp@corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:36:49 GMT
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Peter Brooks (brooksp@corp.hp.com) wrote:

: I paid (on the high end) $1000 for a shaper with tooling and a table,
: but it seems to be in excellent shape.  I've seen some prices elsewhere
: (like in Michigan) where they go down to $300.  Mine was in California


Following up my own post:  I thought I paid on the high end (maybe even got
taken), but after what Dave said about the vise, I think I got a fair deal:
complete shaper (well, missing the square-shaft wrench/handle, but I can
work around that) with vise, indexing rig and several tool holders to go along
with the shaper and table.  Rewired mine to 220V and it runs nicely.

Pete Brooks



From hps@shore.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:32 EST 1996
Article: 44496 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Henry P. Szostek" <hps@shore.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is Duralumin?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:13:41 GMT
Organization: Henry's Machine Shop
Lines: 56
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To: honda@icon.co.za

honda@icon.co.za (Paul Hurst Nicholson) wrote:
>On 2 Dec 1996 19:36:20 GMT, Lionel Titchener <tcgb@tattoo.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>>An earlier posting asks what is  aircraft aluminium. My question is 
>>similar, what is Dural.
>>
>>Is Dural a trade name, that refers to a particular grade of aluminium, 
>>
>>I have seen the term "Made from Dural" giving the impression that is is a 
>>special grade. High Tensile grade?
>>
>>I have seen this term used in a magazine on mountain bikes, a lot of the 
>>accesories are described as made from Dural.
>>
>>Thanks   Lionel
>>
>
>Duralumin is an alloy  alluminum and I think copper. Anyway it s the
>alloy of aluminum used in the the manufacture of aircraft. It
>definately has better strenghth properties than pure aluminum but is
>slightly heavier. 

Duralumin,Dural,Duraluminum,Light aloy, Aloy are all terms used 
freely by advetising poeple when they want to sound technical. 
The term Dural, is primarily a european or british one used to 
describe the aloy commonly known today as 2024 the four digit 
designation series was adopted in 1954, previously it was called 
24ST . The first digit indicates the primary hardening agent in 
the aloy . In this case it is copper.  Yes it is slightly heavier 
but not enough to ammount to much .It is .100 lbs per cu in 
versus .098 lbs per cu in for pure aluminum .  Specific gravity 
is 2.77 for 2024 while pure aluminum is 2.70 .  In a list of 
specific gravity taken from  the Alcoa Aluminum Handbook the 
lightest I find is 2.64 for 5056 (principle hardening element 
magnesium) to a high of 2.82 for 2011 (copper series).  2024 is 
one of the strongest of all aluminum aloys.It is also usualy 
twice the price of lesser grades and exhibits strength comparable 
to low carbon steel.It is subject to intergranular corosion so is 
sometimes clad with pure aluminum (during the rolling process) 
and then bears the designation Alclad and yes it is used in the 
manufacture of aircraft among other things.  the only aloy 
stronger thah 2024  is 7075 (principle hardening agent zinc) 
but that is at room temperature. When used in higher heat 
aplications ( up to 300 deg.F )2024 maintains its strength while 
7075 wilts badly.  If this kind of information interests you you 
can find it in great abundance in the Metals Handbook ,published 
by the American Society for Metals. I have a few volumes  of the 
 ninth edition, I think the complete set is about a dozen books 
each the size of a thick phone book and about $100.00 per book 
When they started out they had it all in one book and if you can 
find one at a used book store it is a gold mine of information of 
this nature

Henry 



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:33 EST 1996
Article: 44497 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor (and thoughts on using the 'free' wheel)
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:49 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b2e96f.20715930@snews.zippo.com>, kpinkert@super.zippo.com
(Kevin Pinkerton) writes:

>Thanks, I took a look and found about 100 articles. Seemed to be an
>initial problem with alignment on 3/8 and smaller bits and with the
>amount of relief. Has these problems been corrected to everyone's
>satisfaction?
>
>

Not as far as I am aware. I still use the trial and error visual method.
Still better than sharpening by hand though.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:34 EST 1996
Article: 44498 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:52 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b33ea6.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>by a certified professional welder.  He preheated it because
>it is a severly constrained joint, TIG welded it top and
>bottom, stress relieved it after he was done, and then after
>cleaning it up used liquid penetrant to be sure there was no
>cracking.  Belt and suspenders maybe, but I had no more
>problems.  
>
>

Unless they were a competent and certified welder I cannot imagine why
anyone would attempt anything like steering gear on a car. Weld anything
you like pretty much anywhere you like on the car but steering gear, pay
the money or pay the price.

Peter
Who once had a tow hitch he had welded tear off and the boat, trailer and
hitch went past at about 40mph. Came to rest without damage to life limb
or happiness but provided a valuable lesson in life.



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:35 EST 1996
Article: 44499 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Master Precision Level
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:12 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b340a6.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>Here in my garage, when it rains the whole floor shifts
>slightly, probably due to the extremely expansive soil we
>have.  I couldn't detect it before.
>
>

Get rid of that stupid level and the floor will stop moving again.

Peter ;)>


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:36 EST 1996
Article: 44500 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58vudu$hio@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>, cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com
(Chuck Sherwood) writes:

>Is it that much better than the new stuff without it?? I use the new
stuff
>a lot and I think it works very well. I have been told that the old stuff
>is really foul if you get it hot while drilling or turning..
>
>
>

Worse than foul, Tric. generates Phosgene (sp?) gas when heated high
enough.  A good way of getting a 'healthy' whiff is to be smoking a
cigarette and inhale the vapours through it. Probably only need two quick
whiffs and yer snuff.

They once used Tric. in fire extinguishers too.

Stick with the new Tap Magic.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:38 EST 1996
Article: 44501 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:43 GMT
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In article <19961215021000.VAA12925@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bohigas@aol.com writes:

>I am shure you are probably correct, but in my Spanish English
>technical dictionary it says so, never mind I made good note
>of your comments. And thank you for putting me right !!! 
>
>Translation is a difficult beast, most of the time and I have
>to cope with three languages all the time.
>
>

I envy your ability to do so. I'm way too busy (read lazy) to learn
Italian as I love visiting there and would like to speak the lingo better.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:39 EST 1996
Article: 44502 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:56 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58vte7$3ih@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
<packrat@proaxis.com> writes:

>>I will hunt around on the Web and see if Starrett has
>>anything on how to use their blades.
>>

MSC has the Starret blade tensioner on special in their December flyer.
Can't recall how much as I have tossed it.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:40 EST 1996
Article: 44503 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:15 GMT
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In article <59062i$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>,
reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) writes:

>Very true that they will move air in the same direction regardless of
>which way the prop is facing, but if the blades have a curve to them,
>they will be more efficient facing one way than the other.
>
>Though the compressor pump flywheel/fans I have seen don't have curved
>blades so that wouldn't make any difference here.
>
>

I think you need to check that one again, Reckless. If you turn the blade
around, any curve will turn with it! If the curve is on the output edge of
the blade, it stays there no matter what. The only time the curve, if any
would be likely to affect the outcome is if the fan is run backwards. Even
then it is doubtful.

The curve is generally there to reduce noice rather than improve output.
It provides less shearing of the air at the tips. Therefore such a fan
running in reverse may well work more efficiently rather than less.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:41 EST 1996
Article: 44504 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961215015700.UAA12692@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
bohigas@aol.com writes:

>Can somebody in this fine audience please tell me how to make
>wood pellets, what machines are used and how much they
>cost, in good old yankee dollars. $$$$
>
>

You don't make then Pellapedes do. They are a large grub about the
diameter of your finger. The feed on wet newsprint and produce the
pellets. This is the best use I have found for the printed media and it
also keeps my feet warm.

Peter
Spamming at last because *we* sell Pellapede eggs for hatching and
farming.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:42 EST 1996
Article: 44505 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:47 GMT
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In article <5904pe$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>,
reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Reckless) writes:

>The rubber hose on 2 hub couplers are a great idea, and if you can get
>a hose with outer braid and clamp the braid well enough, it will
>transfer torque quite nicely.  Just remember to pull the braid tight
>before clamping it.
>
>Just some more thoughts,
>-Reckless
>
>
>

Thanks to all, this has been a very long and sometimes interesting thread.
BillG has sent me a CAD drawing of a simple design that looks like it will
work well. I'll make one of these and try it.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:44 EST 1996
Article: 44506 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Squeeling
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:34:40 GMT
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In article <32B387AD.42C2D414@northnet.org>, Steve Austin
<saustin@northnet.org> writes:

>I've been known to take off my belt and wrap it around pesky
>animals like your howling tube.  A good stiff piece of rubber
>jammed inside also might help.  
>Steve A.
>
>

Pheeww! At first reading I thought this was oneof those Hampster and
masking tape jokes. ;)>

Peter
Still shocked, but recovering.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:45 EST 1996
Article: 44507 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Buying an Older Lathe: How Does One Learn?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:09 GMT
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In article <32b322ff.1615835@news.oro.net>, fox@oro.net (Andrew Keyser)
writes:

>How do you experts know what all the brands are, what brands still
>have parts available for them, what brands are most reputable? With
>really good data, I'd be able to identify the year of manufacture from
>the model number or possibly serial number when I see the lathe in
>person. Is there a source with such detailed information?
>
>

The MDNA, I think sell a book of machine serial numbers that defines date
of manufacture etc. I think an email to Andy Popke with the s/n might be a
cheaper way of getting info. Apart from the caps lock keys he is usually
quite helpful.

PeTEr


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:46 EST 1996
Article: 44508 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:07 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
<MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>thats all folks...............
>
>
>andy popky
>516 385 9452
>
>

Now you *are* spamming Andy.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:47 EST 1996
Article: 44509 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need cmm controller
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:35:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <850584772.20840@dejanews.com>, JSTANGE@LL.NET writes:

>I'm trying to build a coordinate measurment machine using my
>pc. It will be built like a bridge type cnc router but will be
>move by my hands. Does anyone know were to get information on 
>the controller card, encoders,and what ever else I need?
>Is there any products that would allow a pc to act as a DRO
>off my bridgeport??
>-

Someone uploaded a UUENCODEd version of just that about 4 or 5 weeks back,
Copped a lot of flame for doint it but use the DejaNews and go look for
"pnpnolan's DRO". It wasn't mine but he (whoever) thought it was. It was
written by another guy and it works from encoders, mine works from a
mouse.

Peter



From randd@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:48 EST 1996
Article: 44510 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: "Randy R. Cox" <randd@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Silicon ?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:29:24 -0600
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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For years I've used clear, cheap, silicon right out of a caulking tube
for many purposes--almost as useful as duct tape.  Several years ago,
they began to "impove" the product making it paintable in some cases,
adding years of guarante and additional price in others.  The old stuff
gave off acetic acid and smelled like vinegar.  The newer stuff smelled
like ammonia.  As the years go by, the old stuff gets harder to find and
more expensive where it used to be cheapest of all.

The new "improved" silicon rubber seemes to have an adverse reaction to
uncoated plastine clay causing it to desolve and get mucky.  Does
anybody out there have an understanding of this product, and if so, how
can I tell by reading the label which is the old stuff and which is the
new.  Right now, the only clue I have is the "improved" designation.  As
the years go by, this will probably be dropped.  I'm very dependant on
this stuff, and the alternative for me requires triple beam scales and
critical mixing and time constraints.

Thanks in advance,
You guys are great!,

Randy




From tonyd@spec.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:49 EST 1996
Article: 44511 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: tony <tonyd@spec.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: THE  BIG ONE FOR JAY & other mathematical minded friends
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 23:11:44 -0500
Organization: digitalNation
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32ACE300.7D97@spec.net>
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To: ssl@loganact.com

Scott Logan wrote:
> 
> On 6 Dec 1996 22:23:49 GMT, bohigas@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >Dear Jay:
> >
> >An upright solid steel cylinder of 12 " diametre and a length of 6 ft, was
> >
> >elevated with saturated steam by 8 ft, and mechanically locked.
> >
> >On demand the cylinder was released and then crashed down
> >with its full weight into the forming  tool, creating the coin image.
> >A steam cushion was then used to absorb some of the vibration.
> >
> >
> >My question is:
> >
> >What is the tonnage of the RAM ?
> 
> Well, I'm not Jay, but carbon steel has a mass of 0.2833 lbs per cubic
> inch.  Your ram is 8143.008 cubic inches (pi*r^2*l) so the weight is
> 2306.9 lbs or 1046.4 kg.
> 
> All figures from Machinery's Handbook.
> 
> Scott Logan
> ssl@loganact.com
> www.loganact.com

O.K., but what about the force when the ram accelerates due to gravity at 32 ft.
per second^2 during the distance of its stroke?


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:51 EST 1996
Article: 44512 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:52:08 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B3AEE2.6C3D@silcom.com>, Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
writes:

>You can make either boring bars or internal threading tools this way.
>Some machinists I know make the boring bar out of carbide (SiC, not WC).
>This has a much higher strength to weight ratio than steel, so the
>resonant frequency is higher than a steel bar.
>I find torch work lots of fun, and finding interesting ways to use
>carbide amusing.
>
>

Great suggestion, Elliot. I love this NG.

Peter
Still, still learning.


From toml@infinity.ccsi.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:52 EST 1996
Article: 44513 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: toml@infinity.ccsi.com (Tom Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: milling the whole surface
Date: 15 Dec 1996 17:51:11 GMT
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lwc1220@aol.com wrote:
: In article <oQPTSAA8tGsyEwUt@iw63.demon.co.uk>, "Ian W. Wright"
: <Ian@iw63.demon.co.uk> writes:

: >I use 'Superglue' (cyanoacrylate) extemsively for holding things to
: >machine them. Admittedly I'm only working on watches and small clocks
: >but I don't see any reason why the same stuff won't work on larger
: >sizes. The only thing is that you need to be able to heat the work up a
: >bit to get the glue to release - probably to about 200 deg. F or so. If

Cyanoacrylate glues (SuperGlue TM) are dissolved by acetone. No need to
heat the piece up. Of course, the part(s) need to be resistant to acetone
to use this method. 



From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:53 EST 1996
Article: 44514 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 18:04:55 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company, Inc.
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Keywords: 
In article <32B3831E.25F7@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Mark Winlund wrote:
>> 
>> I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up,
> the
>> old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available.
> Call your
>> local supplier, guys...
>> 
>> Regards, Mark
>
>i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
>it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!

What I REALLY liked was the VERY old Tap Magic (early-1960's).  I worked 
equally well on steel or aluminum (no need for 2 cans) and it smelled 
like cinnamon!  Then they changed the formula, and the first time I tried 
it on aluminum, it ate my tap and made purple smoke.  We used to get it 
at the surplus yard when I was a kid, and finding a can with more than a 
a few tablespoons left was a treasure.

Frankly, I don't like Tap Magic.  Besides eating my tap 30 years ago, 
I've found that Cool-Tool II works better on everything I've tried, and 
you still don't need 2 flavors.

Doug White


From todengine@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:54 EST 1996
Article: 44515 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: todengine@aol.com (Tod Engine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to Contact Lindsay publications
Date: 15 Dec 1996 18:03:52 GMT
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I used to be on Lindsay's mailing list many years ago.  I would like to
get back on the list.  Anyone have their address or are they on the net?

Rick Rowlands


From bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:55 EST 1996
Article: 44516 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net (Bill)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
Date: 15 Dec 1996 16:27:19 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>
>A plug in thermostat switch from Home Depot and a fan speed controller
>from the same place could do it all for under $15.00
>
>Peter

I though about using a T-stat, but not knowing what the temp range
will be for on/off I didnt know where to start. I didnt want to buy 5
differnt stats to figure out the righ range. 

Am I able to find a cheap stat that has a broad range that I can work
with ?? 
Would a Stat like the one in my living room work ?
I would think not, I would imagine I would want to read temps INSIDE
the stove as  not have too long a reaction time and let the fire burn
out.

 However I do think that a stat would work much better than A timer
 ( wich might be my next attempt) 





From Lughaid@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:27:56 EST 1996
Article: 44517 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Lughaid@pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:17:19 GMT
Organization: A Lot of Brass
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <32b4b0e7.761734507@news.pacbell.net>
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Hmmm. Can't get to it with either address. Could you check it again?
>
>>Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by 
>>Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
>Like a moron, I left out part of the address,
>
>>http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/UL/MC/ColvinSerlll.html
>
>
>

Michael Horgan (Lughaid@pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:58 EST 1996
Article: 44518 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: 15 Dec 1996 18:19:58 GMT
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Dear Brian:

No wonder that your wife has lost interest, at US$ 2000
I would also rather get cold ankles.....

Alberto




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:27:59 EST 1996
Article: 44519 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:17:20 GMT
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Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

>I must confess here before my fellow rcm'ers that I indeed am guilty of 
>drinking the heretical Diet Pepsi. It is a holdover from my dissapated 
>youth when cravings were not resisted and debauchery ran rampant. 
>As a saving grace, however, I can readily admit to drinking Deli Coffee 
>that has sat on the table of the Bridgeport for more than a day. This 
>alone, should buy me some absolution.

>Jim"Penitent" Harvey
>noliver@hre.com
>http://hre.com

I am definately whelmed!  

Fitch
Driving down to the Deli to buy next week ends coffee ...



From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:00 EST 1996
Article: 44520 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WTB Southbend 9" model "B" stuff
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 19:02:22 GMT
Organization: Logan Actuator Co.
Lines: 27
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On Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:48:14 -0700, donahue@continet.com (Gavin
Donahue) wrote:

>I just aquired a Southbend 9" model "B" and need a thread dial and
>manuals. I'm also interested if anybody has opinions on toolpost options,
>collet setups and  mailorder suppliers (or?) to obtain them. Are metric
>changegears available or instructions for making them (I have a small mill
>but no dividing head yet)? Thanks for considering my request and replies
>via posting or email are much appreciated.

Gavin,

South Bend Lathe is still in business, and can provide most of what
you are asking.  Keep in mind, their prices seem rather high for some
items.  Consider trying some of the used machinery dealers, for things
like the threading dial.  For instance, Plaza Machinery has NEW
threading dials for much less than SB.

As for metric threading, check out our Web Site, at
http://www.loganact.com/tips/met-thd.htm for information on cutting
metric threads on Logan Lathes.  Much of the information is applicable
to your SB.  We are also starting to carry some parts to fit the South
Bend lathes.

Scott Logan
ssl@loganact.com
www.loganact.com


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:01 EST 1996
Article: 44521 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:34:23 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) wrote:

>    Dave, I may be starting a flame war here, but I just have to say
>this: 
>        I don't think that I have ever seen a metal wear failure that I
>could attribute simply to the wrong type of oil. 

<sniped a lot of common sense>

>        My advice is to get a good light weight oil - either spindle or
>motor oil - clean the reservoir well, fill it up, and get on with the
>fun. 
>            Putting on my flame-proof suit -     Roger Loving          

I agree with you.  I bought some "spindle" oil and som "way
lube", so labeled, in 1 gallon plastic jugs.    When I ran
out, I bought some more.  Now on third gallon of "way lube",
have almost 3 quarts of second gallon of spindle oil left.
Been using the way lube in the pump oiler of my mill and on
everything but the rotating parts of my shaper and lathes.
I put them in different pump oil cans so as not to mix them
up.

Spindle oil on all rotating parts, all machines.  

The "way lube" seems to be more stickey, so I try not to use
it on rotating parts.  I use it sparingly on lathe ways.
When cutting the flood coolent cutting oil swamps out the
way oil anyway.

Dad bought some special oil he kept in a glass jar for the
SB lathe and shaper.  I am using it as spindle oil.  

The Model A folks have a similar tendancy to dig into oil in
almost painful detail.  I ran SAE 30 Penzoil in mine for
years, no problems that I knew of.  Fellow who bought it
>from  me had done the same thing.

The manual for my 7.3 L nonturbo Ford Diesel specifically
recommends against multiviscosity oil.  So I don't use it.
My Cummins powered Dodge wants 15W-40.  So that is what I
use.  I forget what the 6.5L Turbo Chevy Diesel wanted
except that it was multiviscosity also.  Compared to these
engines, a lathe headstock seems to be really light duty.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:02 EST 1996
Article: 44522 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:44:55 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32b42a06.0@mothra.westworld.com>
References: <58s9f6$9n3@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <32b33ead.0@mothra.westworld.com> <32B3AEE2.6C3D@silcom.com>
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Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com> wrote:

>Fitch R. Williams wrote:
>> 
>> cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:
>> 
>> >Hi everyone.
>> 
>> >I have some questions on boring holes and on sherline carbide insert tools.
>> 
>> Chuck,
>> 
>> I have never used any of the Sherline tools but would offer
>> the following from my own experience.
>My 2 cents worth:

<snip>

>I have a lot of old carbide (wood) saw blade,
>uncement the teeth with a torch, they are brazed on.  Take a tooth, and
>rotate it to an angle you want the edges to be at, and braze it into a
>notch on the steel rod.  

<snip>

Elliot, 

Thanks for that tip.  Never thought of using old carbide
blade tips that way.  Probably wouldn't work to well on an
align boring bar, but where thw whole bar is used to set the
cut it sounds worth experimenting with..

I'll have to rig up something to sharpen carbide, but that
is on the list anyway.

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:04 EST 1996
Article: 44523 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!never-21.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:02:19 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32b42e19.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood) wrote:

>Mark Winlund  <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>>I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are used up,
>> the old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still available

>Is it that much better than the new stuff without it?? I use the new stuff
>a lot and I think it works very well. I have been told that the old stuff
>is really foul if you get it hot while drilling or turning..




>-- 
>--
>Chuck Sherwood
>casherwood@lucent.com

The old stuff was absolutely correctly named "Tap Magic".

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:05 EST 1996
Article: 44524 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:06:46 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:

>Surprisingly enough, it measures the actual stretch of the blade. It is a simple 
>device, with a dial indicator and two clamps about an inch apart. The other 
>surprising fact is that the same meter will read all sizes of blade. Under proper 
>tension, they will all stretch the same amount. This is according to the Lennox 
>salesman, (and the gauge inst

Do you know how much stretch that is in thousandts of an
inch?  I would think I could build something like that.  I
have a bunch of dial indicators.  Is there something trickey
about it?

Fitch




From rfeeley@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:06 EST 1996
Article: 44525 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:59:41 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <32b4ba53.1452238@netnews.worldnet.att.net>
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A good fried told me once that Louis and Clark had an air gun with
them on their expidition through the Louisiana purchase.  President
Jefferson asked them to evaluate it.  One of them (don't recall which)
was mistakenly shot in the rear end and the rifle was lost.  I
understand there is a group of historians (with not enough to do) that
are researching the fate of that rifle.

Roger

On 16 Dec 1996 02:44:51 GMT, Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com> wrote:

>Don Holly wrote:
>>While I know people used to make air rifles which were used in
>>hunting, I thought they were still very low-powered compared to
>>firearms. Not true?
>>
>Depends on the kind of air rifle. Modern air rifles generally aren't much
>more powerful than a .22, but in the 18th Century they had some that were
>man-killers. The Austrian army had at least one regiment equipped with them
>during the Napoleoniac wars and the French thought so highly of them they
>ordered anyone caught carrying one to be executed.
>
>Not only was there no explosion and smoke, but the things were repeaters,
>firing a dozen shots or more before the air bottle needed to be changed.
>Standard equipment for a soldier was the rifle and two extra charged air
>bottles.
>
>There was additional work on these high-powered air rifles up through the
>19th Century (see for example 'The Return of Sherlock Holmes').
>
>These rifles used a compressed air bottle for power, often shaped to be the
>buttstock of the rifle. Militarily, their biggest drawback was you had to
>drag a large, clumsy man-powered compressor to the edge of the battlefield
>to recharge the bottles.
>
>--RC



From jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:08 EST 1996
Article: 44526 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Joseph Baccellieri <jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:33:13 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 18
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <58vte7$3ih@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
> <packrat@proaxis.com> writes:
> 
> >>I will hunt around on the Web and see if Starrett has
> >>anything on how to use their blades.
> >>
> 
> MSC has the Starret blade tensioner on special in their December flyer.
> Can't recall how much as I have tossed it.
> 
> Peter

MSC has a Starrett "Saw Tension Gage" on sale for $249.55.
As Peter said it is in the December sale flyer.

Joe.


From cesplot@bright.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:09 EST 1996
Article: 44527 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rob Orlando <cesplot@bright.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:35:17 -0800
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Davoman wrote:
> 
> I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
> I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
> Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
> To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
> FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!

Hey if Elmo can post here I suppose you can too...What's next?
(just don't let LeAnne catch you! ;) )
Jen


From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 14:28:10 EST 1996
Article: 44528 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 18:39:04 GMT
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
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Roger Loving (rogerlov@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
:     Airguns fascinate me too! I do not know anything about the bellows
: type, I always thought that the more powerful airguns used a higher
: pressure contained in a pressure reservoir. I do have a wierd
: quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
: supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with ether.
: When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether is
: injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
: ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22 cal.
:     Ever seen one of these?  
:                                 Roger L.

A word of warning. I used to work with ether when I was a lab technician 
for an experimental neurologist (he used it to painlessly kill lab rats). 
Ether is both toxic and explosive and an 8 ounce can will blow up an 
entire room if ignited by sparks, open flames, hot wires or SHAKING (!).
In a closed space just a tiny amount can snuff you by suffocation.


No flame please, just my opinion.

Georgie





From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:12 EST 1996
Article: 44529 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 19:05:22 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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  I use tractor hydraulic fluid. Its just 10W non detergent oil as far as
I can tell. It might have some antifoaming additives but I don't think
that they will hurt anything on the lathe. The best thing is that you can
get 5 gallons for about $25 which is a lifetime supply for the average
home shop.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us Tue Dec 17 14:28:13 EST 1996
Article: 44530 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 15 Dec 1996 18:51:07 GMT
Organization: Mobile Area Freenet, Inc. -- Mobile, Alabama
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Ernie Leimkuhler (stagesmith@earthlink.net) wrote:
: Amp for amp MIG is hotter and cleaner than any stick weld.

: The only realm where stick wins over MIG is outdoors , such as High steel,
: but if you run Dual shield or flux core wire in a MIG then it is a toss
: up.

: Skill for skill it doesn't matter what process you use . I can lat down a
: better weld with oxy-acet than some people could do with a MIG or Stick.
: Stick welding is cheap and versatile, but not stronger than MIG.
: 
: Okay I've ranted enough.
: let the flames begin
What flames? I think you're right, from my little experiance, (like a 
local commuter approving of Richard Petty's driving style). But 
I've got something to add. I've had throat cancer, so whenever I weld I 
have to use a mask and a big fan. Stick welding (and to a lesser extent 
flux core) makes clouds of toxic smoke, but MIG is very user friendly. 
And with the portable shield that straps to the handle I can do away with 
the face shield so the respirator becomes less claustrophobic. 


Georgie





From dmauch@seanet.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:14 EST 1996
Article: 44531 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.seanet.com!news
From: Dan Mauch <dmauch@seanet.com>
Newsgroups: alt.cad.,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dancad and Tablet?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:38:13 -0800
Organization: Camtronics, Inc.
Lines: 18
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Ian Campbell wrote:
> 
> Does the newer Calcomp Drawing *Slate* II (32050SER, 32090SER, etc) work
> with Dancad3d? The Dancad docs mention the Drawing *Board*, which is
> either a misprint or an older device. The Slate has pressure sensitivity
> which I thought might interfere with things.
> 
> Thanks for any info... (preferably personal experience)
> 
> --
> Ian Campbell - http://www.islandnet.com/~ianc -
> secretdeadmediamachinecollage.etc...

What version are you using. Version 2.6 DOES support a Digitizer tablet.

Dan




From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:16 EST 1996
Article: 44532 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rec.crafts.metalworking -  opens up new horizons
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:04:11 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Jim:

Thanks for your kind note, I love to send you all a fresh turkey,
but right now my bank manager will not let me do that.

But, I will include you all in my christmas prayers,

God Bless you all.

Alberto
>from  London


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:17 EST 1996
Article: 44533 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: US LIST OF FAME -  Was posted in error
Date: 12 Dec 1996 10:04:13 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Sorry, due to some error the messages was posted prior
to completion.

its the finger syndrome <LOL>

Alberto


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:18 EST 1996
Article: 44534 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:09 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <AED9B92196685E0869@ppp25.nantucket.net>
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In article <32B415CA.3C12@hre.com>,
Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:

>Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote:
>> 
>> Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by
>> Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
>> 
>> http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/MC/ColvinSerlll.html
>
>
>
>Can you check that URL? Doesn'T seem to work.
>
>Jim Harvey

jim, try:
http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/UL/MC/ColvinFinding.html



Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:19 EST 1996
Article: 44535 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:11 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
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In article <32b4ecc6.11921386@news.sprynet.com>,
ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) wrote:

>Though I don't have one, I understand these "tension meters" are
>basically an electronic caliper which clamps to the blade when it is
>loose.  As the blade is tensioned, the gage measures the "stretch" of
>the blade.

Perhaps you could scratch t fine lines an aprox inch apart then use a mike
and a loupe to measure the true at rest distance... then tension the blade
and measure it again... done at say 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw points
you would generate a table of elongation... a bit of work withthe old
spread sheet and you would be set...

Might be worth a try... perhaps some one with one of the $280 Starrett
Gauges could provide calibration info? I note that that unit has a range of
0 to 60,000 psi... I doubt that that much range is needed on the cheap
import saws... one reasion I went with the Powerband Matrix II 10 14S VPis
that Starrett told me that I would be unlkly to be able to over tension it
on one of these... also it is better able to take the twists this short
blade machine imposes and so I x drilled the adjuster for a 12" long bar
and withthe 6" extention it provides I sock it up as tight as I can...
working fine so far... but I would love to know how Tight I realy have it
and how much dammage it is dooing to bearings having it that tight if I
don't need it so high.

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:20 EST 1996
Article: 44536 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what to drink in a shop; Was  SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:12 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <AED9B92496685E0901@ppp25.nantucket.net>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com> <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com> <AED715129668B0FA8@ppp16.nantucket.net> <32B1B039.2544@hre.com> <AED849F296687B67E@ppp8.nantucket.net> <32B307E3.3E7@hre.com>
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In article <32B307E3.3E7@hre.com>,
Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote:
snip,
>Anyone caught at Harvey Racing Engines drinking Anything that is called 
>Cafe, Latte, Mocha etc is taken out back and Horsewhipped.

Harumph! only too good for them!
> 
>> the approved list now stands at:
>> Jolt Cola
>> Mountain Dew
>> Very Strong Coffee
>> Verry strong Tea
>> 
>> any additions?
>
>Straight Tonic Water (schweppes for the Schweppervesscence naturally)
>

Humm, I think perhaps if it is used to wash down handfuls of NoDoz pills...
I have been know to drink the odd flagon of Schweppes Bitter Lemon on a
hot summer day to keep the malaria in check but only if the daily intake of

caffine is on track as well...

the essence of this list is caffine content... spindle oil of the brain...





Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:22 EST 1996
Article: 44537 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  what to drink in a shop; Was (SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:13 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <AED9B92596685E094C@ppp25.nantucket.net>
References: <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com> <32b0b7c9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <jriser-1212961927010001@usr5ip24.azstarnet.com> <32B0D1E0.61A7@hre.com> <AED715129668B0FA8@ppp16.nantucket.net> <32B1B039.2544@hre.com> <AED849F296687B67E@ppp8.nantucket.net> <32B307E3.3E7@hre.com> <58va0q$4ig@juliana.sprynet.com>
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In article <58va0q$4ig@juliana.sprynet.com>,
beckeng@sprynet.com (JD) wrote:

>I've often found, after 14-16 straight hours of staring at chips, that
>a small bottle of ol Jack Daniels is in order. What the hell, don't 
>have to worry about customers commin round at 2 am.

Humm well if we are to move this thread to what we drink after the machines
are turned off for the day... the fingers and other important body parts
inventoried and accounted for, then we have a much larger list to choose
from...


I am rather partal to Bottle conditioned beer or real ale (cask
conditioned) I used to make my own but now I have friendly local micro
brewer who will fill my 2.5 gal "party pigs" with the real ale of the
day... they condition/settle for a few days and then I have them nicely
cooled (about 50 to 55f) in an unheated part of the basement not too far
>from  the shop...

and pure malt scotch would be my first choice for spirits...

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:23 EST 1996
Article: 44538 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Schlesinger limits: was   Ready made spacers
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:14 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <AED9B92696685E099B@ppp25.nantucket.net>
References: <19961209170900.MAA16246@ladder01.news.aol.com> <jesw-1212961432410001@m21664-mac.mitre.org> <32b0e9f9.0@mothra.westworld.com> <AED7151A9668B116A@ppp16.nantucket.net> <58ubkl$b1d@news.dgsys.com>
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In article <58ubkl$b1d@news.dgsys.com>,
dide@dgsys.com (Dave Ide) wrote:

>Randolph Lee (r.lee@windshadow.com) wrote:
>: of Hardinge or Leven)  will face very slightly concave... per the
>: Sleschinger (sp) limits. my Schaublin 102 is concave 0.0001 mm accross a
>
>     The what kind of limits?
>     David Ide

David, the (sp) after the spelling used above means that I misspelled it
and I knew it was misspelled but that I thought it was close enough for
most folks to know what I was writeing about... sorry it was lazy of me not
to look it up.

the word is Schlesinger, and the Schlesinger Limits are named after Dr.Ing
George Schlesinger he was a cofounder of the german standards inst. in 1917
and developed the Machine tool inspection standards used worldwide and
hence named after him... for full details read his 1927 Tome "Machine tools
Inspection book" or the 1978 revised edition ISBN 0-08-021685-4 Pergamon
press.

the limit in question in the thread (cross slide at right angles to
spindle(to face flat or concave only)) is 0.001 in/ft. on a finishing lathe
up to 16" center height and 0.0008 in/ft. on an instrument lathe of the 50
to 140mm center height size

a full treatment dumbed down to my level is in a current series titled
"Testing and Alignment of Centre Lathes" in ME (started in the 4th Oct 96
issue and I would not be supprised to see it become a future book in the
workshop practice series... it is written by perhaps the best living ME
author Tubal Cain (T.D. Walshaw) and it is keeping me waiting for the next
issue and instalmnet,

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:24 EST 1996
Article: 44539 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re:  heavy tool footings: was 'Master Precision Level'
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:16 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <AED9B92896685E09E6@ppp25.nantucket.net>
References: <588iki$q8k@newsreader.wustl.edu> <58kulj$105@gazette.engr.sgi.com> <32af8f42.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58o7fe$b34@newsreader.wustl.edu> <32b0e4ec.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58ri0n$jkh@news.proaxis.com> <32b340a6.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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In article <32b340a6.0@mothra.westworld.com>,
frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) wrote:

>Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
>
>>Our problems with leveling have been that the concrete in the shop floor is too 
>>thin...  when the planer table movess, the concrete moves!
>
>>Regards, Mark
>
>I can believe that.  At work when they put in the big
>machines, they dig a big hole and pour a lot of concrete
>into it. 

When I visited the iron blomery at Iron Bridge Gorge last Oct. they showed
how the anvil of the big steam hammer was supported... a huge solid casting
the size of a VW bug was dug down in the dirt under the hammer... and about
6 or 8 long (20+feet) heavy cast iron 'spider legs' were dovetailed in to
the huge casting and spread the load of the whole floor of that end of the
works... talk about massive footings... if you go on fri or sat in the
summer months you can see them making the bloomery iron... last place on
earth  that does...

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From r.lee@windshadow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:25 EST 1996
Article: 44540 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!user
From: r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:18:17 -0400
Organization: Windshadow Engineering
Lines: 9
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In article <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com>,
ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>feel free to call, email or use Western Union to discuss them

Andy did you get the emails I sent you asking about Schaublin tooling?

Randolph Lee
Windshadow Engineering


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:26 EST 1996
Article: 44541 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: toolposts
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:01:29 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
Lines: 15
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NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp075-sf2.sirius.com
X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7

Being Christmas and all-- I am sorta hoping Santa will bring me a new
toolpost for my Logan 10". KBC tool has three that take an Aloris type
tool holder. There is a piston type for $113, a wedge type for $153, and a
gib type for $274. Now, realize that I am trying to replace a rocker type
tool post so I will be pretty easy to please. The real question is ---How
poor is the piston type relative to the gib type (with which I have had
good experiences in the past) ??
 Also, anyone out there with a catalogue price that's better? 
Comments will be much appreciated.!

-- 
Al Shinn  (Tinker)
alshinn@sirius.com
Experience the beginnings of microscopy - visit
http://sirius.com/~alshinn/


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:27 EST 1996
Article: 44542 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 16 Dec 1996 04:26:17 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <592j19$h5g@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
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In <19961215173400.MAA06592@ladder01.news.aol.com> pnpnolan@aol.com
writes: 

    Peter, I think I inadvertantly started this debate with my ill-
considered comment that the compressor pulley might act as a fan and
might have been reversed on it's shaft. After spinning a prop on a 
shaft and looking at it, I see what you mean. Reversing the prop
changes nothing. I should have thought it through....of course
reversing the shaft direction - as in a CW to CCW rotation motor 
used as a replacement motor - is still a possibility. My old compressor
has large vanes on the pulley clearly designed for cooling.... 
    Thanks for straightening me out on this.
                                                Roger L.
                                        
>I think you need to check that one again, Reckless. If you turn the
blade
>around, any curve will turn with it! If the curve is on the output
edge of
>the blade, it stays there no matter what. The only time the curve, if
any
>would be likely to affect the outcome is if the fan is run backwards.
Even
>then it is doubtful.
>
>The curve is generally there to reduce noice rather than improve
output.
>It provides less shearing of the air at the tips. Therefore such a fan
>running in reverse may well work more efficiently rather than less.
>
>Peter
>



From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:28 EST 1996
Article: 44543 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 16 Dec 1996 04:41:54 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <592jui$1gi@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com> <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com>
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In <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com> jburnett@cline.com (John A. Burnett)
writes: 
>
>In article <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>,
>ANDY POPKY  <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>peter,peter,peter     >>stop your righteous god like statements
>>
>>what i posted was i no way spam>>i listed 6 machines that would 
>>most likely be of interest to members of the group.

>Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the
line.
>
>John Burnett

    Just to keep the ball bouncing.. I thought Andy's post was o.k.
  But then I thought Peter's comment was intended hunorous. So what do
I know? 
                                                Roger L.


From MPat1111@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:30 EST 1996
Article: 44544 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!EU.net!enews.sgi.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mike Patrick <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:53:23 +0000
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32B47353.5D7D@ix.netcom.com>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
> <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> 
> >thats all folks...............
> >
> >
> >andy popky
> >516 385 9452
> >
> >
> 
> Now you *are* spamming Andy.
> 
> Peter

As an aspiring home machinist, I kindly support the other side of this 
one.  Many readers of this newsgroup are still "tooling up".  With a 
clear subject line, there's no reason that this ad won't be of 
assistance to someone in this ng, either as a purchase option, or as a 
point of reference/reality check for pricing and availability, and those 
who don't need equipment need not read.  I personally don't make much of 
a distinction between a private seller and a dealer (so long as they are 
not posting daily 50k specials).  Andy and Jim seem to be available for 
straightforward answers to purchase questions on used machinery and 
Sherline if a user wishes, which is more than one can sometimes get from 
local machine dealers...I'm lucky to have a good one here in the Denver 
area.

Mike Patrick


From IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET Tue Dec 17 14:28:31 EST 1996
Article: 44545 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news.nacamar.de!fu-berlin.de!news.coli.uni-sb.de!news-kar1.dfn.de!news-koe1.dfn.de!news.kfa-juelich.de!djukfa11!iff161
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:50:50 +01
From: Bob Mueller <IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Message-ID: <96350.205050IFF161@DJUKFA11.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silicon (It is "Silicone!")
Lines: 18

Silicon is an element which in its normal, solid, crystalline form is quite
hard and brittle.  It  is great for making  semiconductors and a few other
things, too, but it is a poor substitute for rubber or other caulking materails
Silicone is the stuff used for caulking and it is a chemical compound contain-
ing silicon in addition to other elements.
    I hope my supply of the acetic acid making kind does not dry up as I have
come to know it well and love it, too.
    A tip,  you can thin the stuff with mineral spirits-like solvents to the
point where it can be easily brushed.  I have successfully sealed walls letting
water bleed through using a coat of the stuff.  It also works to make a bit of
flexible waterproofed cloth like the old rubberized raincoat material if coated
onto normal cloth.
    One thing it does not like is oil.  Or maybe the problem is that it likes
oil too well; the oil goes in and swells the silicone.


     Bob



From DeeSeeW@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:32 EST 1996
Article: 44546 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dan Sherlock@kestrok.com (Dan Sherlock)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quil
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: 15 Dec 1996 20:20:08 GMT
Organization: Aloha.Com News Server
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <591mho$gqp$1@opihi.aloha.com>
References: <Web-2111961717140001@dialup110.bv.sgi.net> <572m02$j6j@camel1.mindspring.com> <329EB71A.5315@aol.com> <c37cc$c3116.31a@NEWS> <32A828D8.7C80@roe.ac.uk> <c77cc$11211e.380@MYCROFT> <58ij57$ojb@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com> <32ACFF64.30FD@gramercy.ios.com> <32B3E154.3040@aol.com>
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>
>I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
>I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
>Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
>To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
>FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!
My fantasy is to get my hands on your throat!!



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:33 EST 1996
Article: 44547 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:35:59 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32B4612F.5655@cyberhighway.net>
References: <felice.373.32B3A1CC@pioneer.net> <felice.374.32B414C8@pioneer.net>
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To: Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter <felice@pioneer.net>

Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote:
> 
> >Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by
> >Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
> Like a moron, I left out part of the address,
> 
> >http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/UL/MC/ColvinSerlll.html

This url bounced for me.  I'm not a CWRU user...

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:34 EST 1996
Article: 44548 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill life
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 06:02:30 GMT
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bobmac@compusmart.ab.ca (Bob MacDonald) wrote:

>	This may be a question without an answer, but I'll ask it anyway. How
>much metal can I expect to cut away with an end mill?
>	I was building the ajustable tool post featured in the October issue
>of PIM. Buy the time I finished my third tool holder the 5/8" (HSS 4
>flute made by YG) end mill I was using  was dull. I had set my RPM
>according to data published in the back of the Cleveland END MILL
>catalogue. Depth of cut was .010", feed rate was very slow. The
>materal I was cutting was HRS, 1.5" wide to a depth of .370". The
>width of the slot was 1.00" wide.
>	Thanks
>		Bob


Last weekend (12-7-96) I removed about 2.4 cubic inches of
metal using a 5/8" HSS end mill making a tool holder - about
the equivelent of 4.3 of your .555 cubic inch slots
(assuming I understand correctly and they were .370" DX 1.5"
L X 1"W).  I was taking a cut two tenths of an inch deep
across the width of the mill at 660 rpm (~109 sf/m),  didn't
measure my feed in ipm but it was fairely agressive, lavish
flood of dark cutting oil for coolent to wash the chips
away.  I had a river of swarf running off the vise.  

I finished by taking a .010" cut along each side of the
slots to finsh them up nice and smooth.  This is not the
only time I've used this mill.  Its nothing fancy, just
plain HSS.  

The cutter did not get noticably duller during the process.
I just went down to look at it to be sure.  I will be using
it again next weekend.

I have experienced much better cutter life and surface
finishes since I  started to use flood coolent - and lots of
it.  I think you will get a lot of input from the group
about using drip or mist coolent.  They are probably
correct, but I already have the other stuff.  It is messy
though.  And it makes cleaning the mill up messy also.  But
I have time, $$$ for cutters is harder to get my hands on.

I ended up using a RTV calking gun to build up the sides of
the coolent troughs around my vise so that the oil wouldn't
run over the sides.  I also have a roll of aluminum foil and
some magnets so that I can set up shields to direct it back
onto the table and into the "T" slots.  I'm getting better
at containing it the more I use it.  

I have gotten many good suggestions on replacements for the
oil, but they all require adding water.  I hate to add the
water.  Its probably just me.  I'm trying to get my mind
around running stuff with water in it over my lathe ways but
not succeeding very well.  The lathe and mill have to share
a coolent system.

Fitch



From chuckh@netheaven.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:36 EST 1996
Article: 44549 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: chuckh@netheaven.com (Chuck Holcomb)
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:53:40 GMT
Organization: NetHeaven
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Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox) wrote:

> I have sent a complaint to AOL regarding this jerk as well as a copy
>of his message and a list of the newsgroups he cross-posted to.
>
>We'll see what their resonse is.
>
>If their not responsive enough there are other ways of handling jerks
>like this.

Not unless you're smart enough to read their header...

>NNTP-Posting-Host: ohia025.lava.net

That means you wasted AOL's time with something that isn't even their
problem...unless you wanted to write to security@aol.com, to report
someone forging an AOL address.
-
Chuck Holcomb   
chuckh@netheaven.com

  


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:37 EST 1996
Article: 44550 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: When the Sparks fly...........
Date: 15 Dec 1996 21:16:39 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Hello Alex:

Thank you for your kind comments, I have frequently worked in
my past live as a practicing artist with HV equipment, creating 
large Neon sculptures, and a "Plasma Palace"  for a Theatre in
Berlin. I am now involved with a MW project, and have learned
to master the hidden dangers of this technology also.

Your comments are well founded, but some of us have experience
with working at High Voltage generators.

If possible, I would aquire your HT caps and circuits for my project,
please come forwards with a price idea.

Alberto Bohigas





From jforbes@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:38 EST 1996
Article: 44551 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.primenet.com!ip180.fhu.primenet.com!jforbes
From: jforbes@primenet.com (J. Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Duty cycle?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 00:16:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 30
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In article <32B483E5.1A03@ismi.net> Don <dhunt@ismi.net> writes:

>I am looking to buy an ac arc welder for general repairs and to build a
>tailgate for a light duty trailer.

>While looking at various models I got to wondering about duty cycles. 
>The Century I looked at had a chart showing duty cycle (I think it was
>about 20% at max amperage and higher at lower amp settings.)  The
>Lincoln 225c which I was leaning toward, due to its smaller more
>portable size, lists a 10% duty cycle at max amps... 20% at 175 amps and
>lower.  

>My question then is, wouldn't running at lower amperage be cooler and
>therefore yield a higher duty cycle on the Lincoln as well as the
>Century?  If so, why do they list it at 20% at 175 A and lower?  If not,
>is the Lincoln "more lightly built".  Would I be better off with the
>Century?

If you weld like the rest of us (OK, like I weld, I'll be give everyone else 
the benefit of doubt), you will never approach a 10% duty cycle at full 
power    :)     as you burn holes thru things, make boo-boos, etc.

So, probably either one will be fine.

Jim

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim and Janet Forbes                          jforbes@primenet.com
Sierra Vista, AZ             URL= http://www.primenet.com/~jforbes
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From jforbes@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:39 EST 1996
Article: 44552 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!204.245.3.50!news.primenet.com!ip180.fhu.primenet.com!jforbes
From: jforbes@primenet.com (J. Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SIZE OF PELLETS
Date: 16 Dec 1996 00:18:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <jforbes.5196.005A156B@primenet.com>
References: <19961215025800.VAA14401@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961215153800.KAA03111@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B48387.261B@ix.netcom.com>
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In article <32B48387.261B@ix.netcom.com> ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: SIZE OF PELLETS
>Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:02:31 -0500

>the pellets are in the shape of a football
>but smaller of course.
>the size is as follows:
>1.312" long
>..437" dia
>4.2875" radius across the chord
>all tolerances + - .005
>the best wood to use is aged doug fir
>no less than 2 years but no more than 5 years

And what animal did these pellets come from?

Jim

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim and Janet Forbes                          jforbes@primenet.com
Sierra Vista, AZ             URL= http://www.primenet.com/~jforbes
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:41 EST 1996
Article: 44553 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-out.communique.net!mr.net!visi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!insync!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.66.12.35!news-in.iadfw.net!excalibur.flash.net!not-for-mail
From: "Kurt Bjorn" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spaceship Aluminum Scrap for sale
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:42:06 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <01bbe84b.adbc2340$68c0c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1085

Darn!  Those rec.brew guys get all the high-grade materials.  No wonder, a
few beers and time is no longer relevant!  ;-)
-- 
Kurt Bjorn

> > >YOu shoulda called me last week! Me & AnDy PoPkY sold a bunch of Time

> machine stuff to some guy from rec.brewing!
> 
> Jim "Time Bandit" Harvey
> AnDy'S_GaNg@hre.com
> http://hre.com
> 
> 
> 


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:42 EST 1996
Article: 44554 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to Contact Lindsay publications
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:44:25 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 47
Message-ID: <32B46329.7B41@cyberhighway.net>
References: <19961215180300.NAA07335@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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To: Tod Engine <todengine@aol.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------7A8576EB2CF4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tod Engine wrote:
> 
> I used to be on Lindsay's mailing list many years ago.  I would like to
> get back on the list.  Anyone have their address or are they on the net?
> 
> Rick Rowlands

No problem.
-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------7A8576EB2CF4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="LINDSAY.txt"
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Metalworking Books

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS

QBCA53A@PRODIGY.COM

P. O. Box 538  HC2
BRADLEY IL 60915--0538

Phone:  1-815-935-5353
FAX:    1-815-935-5477



--------------7A8576EB2CF4--




From johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU Tue Dec 17 14:28:43 EST 1996
Article: 44555 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arachnid.gsu.edu!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!news.math.psu.edu!news3.cac.psu.edu!howland.erols.net!spool.mu.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!cs.mu.OZ.AU!mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU!johnh
From: johnh@mundook.cs.mu.OZ.AU (John Horvath)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Binder for sand mold making.
Date: 12 Dec 1996 04:17:23 GMT
Organization: Comp Sci, University of Melbourne
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <58o10j$qne@mulga.cs.mu.OZ.AU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mundook.cs.mu.oz.au

Hello.

I am looking for recommendations of a compound (preferably cheap and water-
based) that will allow me to form a large (10' by 10') sand-based casting mold.

It needs to be workable and have a fairly thick consistency but it must
set HARD when dry with minimal shrinkage.

Any techniques or tips in general on sand mold-making would be appreciated.


Many thanks in advance.

John Horvath.

(E-mail: johnh@mulga.cs.mu.oz.au )


From saustin@northnet.org Tue Dec 17 14:28:45 EST 1996
Article: 44556 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!dispatch.news.demon.net!demon!ppp-10.gouverneur.northnet.org!not-for-mail
From: Steve Austin <saustin@northnet.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:18:54 -0500
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32B4875E.7A1E0555@northnet.org>
References: <58vsk8$3ih@news.proaxis.com> <32B3831E.25F7@ix.netcom.com>
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> 
> i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
> it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!


I love the smell of lard oil in the morning.  It smells like
BREAKFAST!!!!!

Steve A.


From lharts@unm.edu Tue Dec 17 14:28:46 EST 1996
Article: 44557 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!ns2.mainstreet.net!sloth.swcp.com!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!lynx.unm.edu!indus.unm.edu!not-for-mail
From: lharts@unm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drill Doctor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 14:10:31 -0700
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <591pg7$4k8m@indus.unm.edu>
References: <58sh9i$1jj8@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> <19961214083800.DAA15600@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: indus.unm.edu

   I have had a chance to sharpen a few handfulls of bits with mine
and the standard point comes out very nice. The 135 split point
I havent got quite figured out yet. It's not quite equal on the 
two sides, but I only tried it once so when I get time to figure
out what I did wrong it'll probably be fine also.  ...lew...



From johnferrell@sprintmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:47 EST 1996
Article: 44558 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-8.sprintlink.net!nntp.sprintmail.com!news@sprintmail.com
From: John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:23:52 -0800
Organization: Sprint Internet Passport
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <32B4B2B8.4C8E@sprintmail.com>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>
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ANDY POPKY wrote:

> i listed 6 machines that would
> most likely be of interest to members of the group.
> either they might be looking for a small hobby type machine, or as a
> price comparison to what they have.

Keep the info coming! Eventually I am going to find the right mill for my hobbies, 
probably a 700 pound Asian work in progress if something better does no come along.

John Ferrell in Julian NC


From jvahn@short.circuit.com|-NOSPAM-| Tue Dec 17 14:28:48 EST 1996
Article: 44559 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!express.ior.com!circuit!short!not-for-mail
From: jvahn@short.circuit.com|-NOSPAM-| (James Vahn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 15 Dec 1996 14:13:38 -0800
Message-ID: <591t6i$had@short.circuit.com>
References: <19961211211000.QAA05128@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Organization: 300 miles East of Seattle, WA
Lines: 12
NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 BETA-950824-color PL0]

VAntonova (vantonova@aol.com) wrote:
> I was sandblasting with my 5HP 2 stage 80gallon compressor and noticed
> that the compressor and the motor (a 5 HP Marathon) were VERY hot. I
> couldn't touch the motor, .........

Electric motors these days run too-hot-to-touch on the norm.
There is a duty-cycle rule... maybe someone will remember?
10 minutes on, 5 minutes off?



-eof-


From jvahn@short.circuit.com|-NOSPAM-| Tue Dec 17 14:28:49 EST 1996
Article: 44560 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-ana-7.sprintlink.net!express.ior.com!circuit!short!not-for-mail
From: jvahn@short.circuit.com|-NOSPAM-| (James Vahn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What Metal are Carburetors?
Date: 15 Dec 1996 14:07:38 -0800
Message-ID: <591sra$h6t@short.circuit.com>
References: <58mu7b$g40@top.MTS.Net>
Organization: 300 miles East of Seattle, WA
Lines: 10
NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 BETA-950824-color PL0]

Neil Poersch (npoersch@mts.net) wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what type of metal are carburetors  made
> from?  Are they made of a zinc alloy or aluminum alloy or...?

Welding it up might be interesting..  I threw one into a fire once to melt
it down, turned out to be a magnesium alloy.



-eof-


From lwc1220@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:50 EST 1996
Article: 44561 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: lwc1220@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane
Date: 15 Dec 1996 21:35:23 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 26
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In article <58urio$csm@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, p-crome@staff.uiuc.edu (Phil
Crome) writes:

>If (as others have posted) it's OK to run propane through an acetylene
>regulator, how come the welding supply outfits sell separate
>regulators for the two? I've been thinking of making a change in fuel
>gas for a while now, and this question's been bothering me.
>
>

  To be honest I don't know. Although it wouldn't suprise me to much if
they do it just to sell another regulator. What I do know is that when I
first got my torch I used propane for several years before switching to
acetelyne. I had no problems and I'm still using the same regulator 20
years later.

   Wayne Cook

Quality is like buying oats,
        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.

However, 
        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
the horse...
                          
That comes a little cheaper...


From pipeline@persbest.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:52 EST 1996
Article: 44562 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: The Pipeline <pipeline@persbest.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.manufacturing.misc,alt.industrial,alt.machines.cnc,alt.machines.misc
Subject: Machinery Requests
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:21:15 -0800
Organization: The Pipeline
Lines: 12
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:44562 alt.manufacturing.misc:951 alt.industrial:6590 alt.machines.cnc:562 alt.machines.misc:283

New & Used Machine Tools.
Evan's Machinery Pipeline Web Source!

TELL THE PIPELINE WHAT YOU NEED!

Register for a FREE catalog.

http://www.persbest.com/pipeline.html

Thank you for your consideration.

pipeline@persbest.com


From dhunt@ismi.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:53 EST 1996
Article: 44563 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.ismi.net!usenet
From: Don <dhunt@ismi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Duty cycle?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:04:05 -0500
Organization: Internet Services of Michigan - Howell, MI
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Hi all,

I am looking to buy an ac arc welder for general repairs and to build a
tailgate for a light duty trailer.

While looking at various models I got to wondering about duty cycles. 
The Century I looked at had a chart showing duty cycle (I think it was
about 20% at max amperage and higher at lower amp settings.)  The
Lincoln 225c which I was leaning toward, due to its smaller more
portable size, lists a 10% duty cycle at max amps... 20% at 175 amps and
lower.  

My question then is, wouldn't running at lower amperage be cooler and
therefore yield a higher duty cycle on the Lincoln as well as the
Century?  If so, why do they list it at 20% at 175 A and lower?  If not,
is the Lincoln "more lightly built".  Would I be better off with the
Century?

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated, as I haven't done any welding
in alot of years and am just getting back into it.


Thank You...... DON


From kish@browncow.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:54 EST 1996
Article: 44564 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.cse.psu.edu!uwm.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!hunter.premier.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!205.231.144.20!news.TACONIC.NET!usenet
From: Bill Kish <kish@browncow.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Source for "Hammertone" paint?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:58:44 -0500
Organization: Brown Cow Engineering Inc
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32B482A3.41C6@browncow.com>
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Christopher J. Galbraith wrote:
> 
> Anybody know of any hardware chains, etc.. that carry hammertone paint
> (I know Illinois Bronze makes it)??
> 
> TIA
> -Chris


 There is also a brand called "Hammerite", Eastwood (the auto
restoration mail order co.) carries it.


		-BK


From jalling@cybernet.dk Tue Dec 17 14:28:56 EST 1996
Article: 44565 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jalling@cybernet.dk (niels jalling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building Tools..
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:41:31 -0500
Message-ID: <xBDjo0Qw0RYD071yn@cybernet.dk>
References: <58t7s4$ika@lori.albany.net>
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In article <58t7s4$ika@lori.albany.net>,
semeiks2@albany.net (Randall Semeiks) wrote:
> Has anybody built the machine tools from the "Build your own Metal
> Working Shop from Scrap" series by Dave Gingery offered by Lindsay
> Publications?  I have these books but have not started construction
> yet.  I was wondering how difficult they actually are to build.  And
> if anybody else has seen these books, what is your opinion on them?
> 
Not yet, but I'm on the way :-)

The  "Build your own Metal Working Shop from Scrap" series is my 
favorite reading and has been for the last 3 months now. I enjoy every 
minute can spend in my workshop (having a normal job and 4 small kids
and a wife to take care of too.)
 
This weekend I finished the last casting in chapter IV, The Carriage
Assembly. and started modelling the headstock parts. 
So mow the learning process of the "Art of Hand Scraping" has started. 

Today the outdoor temperature was around 0 deg Celcius (32 deg F), 
rather cold for the fingers when handling the sand. 

For the future I definitely will make the miller too. The shaper is 
a fun machine to operate (tried in the high school days), but  
my shop is too small for the whole series of machines :-) 

/Niels


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:57 EST 1996
Article: 44566 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.internetmci.com!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!mindspring!uunet!in3.uu.net!206.250.118.17!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silicon ?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:33:25 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
Lines: 51
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Randy R. Cox wrote:
> 
> For years I've used clear, cheap, silicon right out of a caulking tube
> for many purposes--almost as useful as duct tape.  Several years ago,
> they began to "impove" the product making it paintable in some cases,
> adding years of guarante and additional price in others.  The old stuff
> gave off acetic acid and smelled like vinegar.  The newer stuff smelled
> like ammonia.  As the years go by, the old stuff gets harder to find and
> more expensive where it used to be cheapest of all.
> 
> The new "improved" silicon rubber seemes to have an adverse reaction to
> uncoated plastine clay causing it to desolve and get mucky.  Does
> anybody out there have an understanding of this product, and if so, how
> can I tell by reading the label which is the old stuff and which is the
> new.  Right now, the only clue I have is the "improved" designation.  As
> the years go by, this will probably be dropped.  I'm very dependant on
> this stuff, and the alternative for me requires triple beam scales and
> critical mixing and time constraints.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> You guys are great!,
> 
> Randy

I don't know that the lable will tell you the real difference between
the two types of "calking". I suspect one type is an acrilic latex
modified with silicon and the other is mostly silicon.

If you contact Dow Corning's Technical Sales department (or GE's) they
can give you the first hand info you need.

I have used a lot of different silicon products for molds and other
applications. Most of the single component silicons like your calking
and sealers/adheasives are moisture cure materials. The moisture that is
ever present in the air acts as a catalyst to triger the cure reaction.

Two component silicons on the other hand use a platnium based catalyst
or other chemical to initiate the cure reaction.

The problem you are having with "plastine clay" is a reaction to the
sulphur in the clay inhibiting the cure of the silicon. If you give the
clay a couple coats of clear acrilic followed by a couple coats of
Johnsons paste wax or other compatible mold reliese, your problem should
be eliminated. You can also use a different type of clay that does not
contain sulphur.

Try a little test batch to start.

Hope that helps,

Jay


From xmas4lites@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:58 EST 1996
Article: 44567 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!arachnid.gsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!howland.erols.net!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!206.250.118.17!nntp.earthlink.net!usenet
From: Jay Hayes <xmas4lites@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: steam turbines
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 02:55:40 -0800
Organization: C.J. PRODUCTS INC.
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <32AFE4AC.3033@earthlink.net>
References: <E27tu1.1Cv8@pen.k12.va.us>
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Richard Hal Buxton wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone,
> Some time ago I started on a Tiny Power 5HP steam engine.  At
> the same time I started on a 5 HP boiler.  Of late I have
> shifted my efforts to the boiler as I reconsider the engine.  A
> friend of mine suggested I build a five HP steam turbine
> instead of the piston drived engine.  I have seen the 5 HP
> steam turbines offered by an outfit in Florida I believe.  It
> had four vanes in the turbine set at right angles to the
> shaft.  I wondered if there was a better arrangement for the
> blades and if there was an advantage to having more blades?  I
> also wondered if someone had built something like this before
> and had some ideas or plans.  Suggestions on any of the above
> issues is appreciated.  By the way, the boiler has no
> superheaters so it will provide saturated steam at about 100
> psi.  I plan to power a generator with it.  Another reason for
> the turbine in that it turns at a speend closer to that of a
> generator.
> TIA
> Rick

As a marine engineer I have seen a lot of different arangements for
steam turbines. Most steam turbines have many turbine blades of a rather
complex geometery. There are usually multiple stages of varing sizes on
a single shaft. Steam turbines also like dry superheated steam. 

One style that comes to mind that may be what you are looking for is a
tangential-flow type turbine. This style has semicircular buckets
machined into the rim of a single turbine wheel. This type of turbine is
often called a "Terry Turbine".

I've built some small models of steam turbines but can't imagine four
vanes being very efficient. Unless you are talking about four rows of
blades.

If you want to read up on the subject see if you can locate a copy of
Modern Marine Engineer's Manual by Osbourne from Cornell Maritime Press.
It has a lot of info on boilers also.

Hope this helps,

Jay


From pschuele@micron.net Tue Dec 17 14:28:59 EST 1996
Article: 44568 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!dciteleport.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.micron.net!news
From: Paul Schuele <pschuele@micron.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 16:56:02 -0700
Organization: Micron Internet Services
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <32B49012.23D8@micron.net>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> peter,peter,peter
> 
> stop your righteous god like statements
Andy:
      The flame you refer to has not yet reached my server. However I
was quite interested in the price/description and LINK to the Millrite
photo. I think the post was more appropriate than some of the flame wars
and side comments of late.

Paul


From langloid@magi.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:00 EST 1996
Article: 44569 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "David Langlois" <langloid@magi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: leather bearing inserts
Date: 15 Dec 1996 23:35:23 GMT
Organization: Associated Systems Inc.
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Message-ID: <5921vr$g32@news.istar.ca>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

In 1958 or 1959 we were vacationing in Eastern Canada (mom, dad, sister,
brother, and me). We had a 1951 Rover 4 door sedan with a 2.8 litre
straight six engine. On our way back to Montreal we came through New
Brunswick and one of the rod bearings went just as we has passed St. John.
We pulled into a garage and dad asked if he could use a hoist. The mechanic
said "sure" and 30 minutes later the pan was off and dad has the offending
bearing exposed. I can still remember the look on the mechanic's face when
dad asked him for some belting leather. It was obvious that he thought this
limey must have been out too long under that hot summer sun. Anyway, dad
fixed the bearing, the five of us piled in, and we slowly made it home.

When we got home dad made a mould and poured babbit around the old bearing
shells. He then scraped and blued, and scraped and blued, and scraped and
blued again until that bearing was a better fit than anything from a
machine shop. I don't think I have the skill to duplicate his machining
ability, but I can definitely tell you how it's done (Prahperrly, as dad
would say!).

David Langlois in Ottawa, Canada




From Charles_Gallo@msn.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:01 EST 1996
Article: 44570 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles_Gallo@msn.com (Charles Gallo)
Subject: RE: Anyone heard of a P & H TIG
Date: 15 Dec 96 22:56:24 -0800
References: <stagesmith-1512960308160001@cust45.max31.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
Message-ID: <00001f0c+000043dc@msn.com>
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Ernie,
>>This beast is a 250 amp P & H TIG, by the Hophschnegger Co. of 
Milwaukee Wis.  

I_BELIEVE_ it's the same P&H that makes the cranes (and I _THINK_ 
it;s spelled Harnishphegger)  The make good cranes - as for welders?

Charlie


From steves@emailaddress.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:03 EST 1996
Article: 44571 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.jsums.edu!in1.nntp.cais.net!op.net!newsfeed.direct.ca!portc01.blue.aol.com!portc02.blue.aol.com!howland.erols.net!feed1.news.erols.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.mnsinc.com!usenet
From: "Steve Stallings" <steves@emailaddress.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What About a "Jet" Benchmill?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 01:17:05 GMT
Organization: Monumental Network Systems
Lines: 20
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Roger Loving <rogerlov@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<58i7jm$dc9@sjx-ixn6.ix.netcom.com>...
>     
>     A local machine dealer has a "Jet" brand bench-top size mill coming
> up for sale this week. I get first chance at it....but the only trouble
> is that I have never heard of it. Probably it is offshore - but that
> can mean anything. Anyone have any knowledge of this make? Only thing I
> know so far is that it is about a 3' bed, 110 or 220 single phase,
> comes with basic collets, drill chuck, vise, and a bent lead screw!
>     He wants to get 600 to 700??? What do you think?
>                                             Roger   
> 
> 
Sounds like the standard setup offered for about $900 all the time
by ENCO and Grizzly. Yes it is an import. In my opinion a bent lead
screw is more than $200 - $300 of trouble as parts for these machines
are very hard to purchase. 

Steve Stallings



From creativ@norfolk.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:04 EST 1996
Article: 44572 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: what to drink in a shop; Was (SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 00:38:05 GMT
Organization: InfiNet
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r.lee@windshadow.com (Randolph Lee) wrote:

>In article <58va0q$4ig@juliana.sprynet.com>,
>beckeng@sprynet.com (JD) wrote:

>>I've often found, after 14-16 straight hours of staring at chips, that
>>a small bottle of ol Jack Daniels is in order. What the hell, don't 
>>have to worry about customers commin round at 2 am.

>Humm well if we are to move this thread to what we drink after the machines
>are turned off for the day... the fingers and other important body parts
>inventoried and accounted for, then we have a much larger list to choose
>from...


>I am rather partal to Bottle conditioned beer or real ale (cask
>conditioned) I used to make my own but now I have friendly local micro
>brewer who will fill my 2.5 gal "party pigs" with the real ale of the
>day... they condition/settle for a few days and then I have them nicely
>cooled (about 50 to 55f) in an unheated part of the basement not too far
>from the shop...

>and pure malt scotch would be my first choice for spirits...

>Randolph Lee
>Windshadow Engineering

I'll take a dbl malt scotch, a good stogie, and little soft music with
the lights down low in the shop.
Damn, I think any "tool time" girl would love this!  <g>

Jim Waggener



From timewlkr@redrock.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:05 EST 1996
Article: 44573 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!xmission!192.41.66.13
From: Steve Drake <timewlkr@redrock.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MIG & PLASMA EQUIP.
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 12:28:23 -0800
Organization: XMission Internet (801 539 0900)
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-- 
best buys for *LAPTOP
COMPUTERS,                                              
*INDUSTRIAL EQUIPMENT, *SPY,
*SURVEILLANCE, * LAW ENFORCEMENT GEAR!
http://www.redrock.net/auw.html


From mrfish@horizon.hit.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:06 EST 1996
Article: 44574 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Diane Haddock <mrfish@horizon.hit.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: abusive Sex message--document source below
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:41:24 -0600
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
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If anyone can read this and figure out where it came from, please inform
the server, we would all appreciate it!
Thanks in advance.  From the rec.crafts.beads group.


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From: Davoman <Davo147@aol.com>
Newsgroups:
rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:30:28 -1000
Organization: America On Line Inc.
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rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:32859

I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!


From r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:07 EST 1996
Article: 44575 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: NJRich <r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: BA Taps
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 07:46:28 -0800
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32B028D4.5CB2@worldnet.att.net>
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Hi ,

Does anyone know a stateside source for BA taps? I am building the 
Stuart model Victoria. The taps are a must. Victoria requires 
BA 2,5 and 7. ( A source besides Coles models please )


Thank you...
Be safe!
Rich


From dew@slip.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:10 EST 1996
Article: 44577 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Sdew@slip.net  (Douglas E. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: >>>>>> "Welding Secrets" Book <<<<<<
Date: 16 Dec 1996 00:56:46 GMT
Organization: Slip.Net
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <5926oe$jvi$1@news1.slip.net>
References: <19961214011100.UAA01508@ladder01.news.aol.com> <19961214155200.KAA24926@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In <19961214155200.KAA24926@ladder01.news.aol.com>, pnpnolan@aol.com writes:
>In article <19961214011100.UAA01508@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>netw6000@aol.com (Netw6000) writes:
>
>>                          "Welding Secrets"
>>
>>              No Other Book Will Prevent More Accidents
>>
>>
>
>I bet "Safe handling of condoms in the 90's" would!
>
>Peter
>Still unfriendly towards spammers, 80 year old or not!

Is a single notice for a book on welding irrellevant on rec.crafts.metalworking??
Or is it 'spamming'??

I'm no fan of spamming, but I don't think that this is it.  

What about !!!Eternal Salvation   or  $$$$50,000 for the new year or 
gay white male needs sex

If you want to get on someone's case, do it where it counts.

Doug
dew@slip.net        Visit www.slip.net/~dew 



From rnorris583@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:11 EST 1996
Article: 44578 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in2.uu.net!152.163.170.17!newstf01.news.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rnorris583@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 16 Dec 1996 01:17:31 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961215173400.MAA06563@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>
>MSC has the Starret blade tensioner on special in their December flyer.
>Can't recall how much as I have tossed it.
>
>Peter

MSC sale price is $249.55

Ron Norris


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:12 EST 1996
Article: 44579 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a Tapered Hole?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 01:29:02 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 16
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In article <59161d$e3@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Ashley Palmer
<Riflewoman@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> writes:

>A tapered pin reamer might be the ticket.  These vary a little bit from 
>the required 5 degree taper, but they are readily available.  
>
>

Seven degrees seems to leap to mind but that may not be correct. If the
project can stand it they would be a far cheaper alternative to having a
reamer made. I doubt I would like to try and drill a tapered hole as a
drill predominantly cuts on the leading lip, the flute-lands are more for
alignment than cutting.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:14 EST 1996
Article: 44580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC wars
Date: 16 Dec 1996 01:29:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <5910mv$klj@juliana.sprynet.com>, 103334,36@compuserve.com (Dan
Falck) writes:

>That comes to roughly $510 not counting the old computer that I
>already had and the mill itself.  Oh and by the way,  it does cut
>metal.  It can mill aluminum and steel but it's not as fast as the
>Fadal at work.
>
>

For $510 I'm not surprrised it is not as quick. :)>

It is good to hear you have CNC in the shop too. I am surprised that
300oz-in motors have enough torque though, the y-axis oin my mill/drill is
*heavy*. What ratio are you running the timing belts at?

Peter



From duffthom@pacbell.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:15 EST 1996
Article: 44581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Duff Thompson <duffthom@pacbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: subscribe
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 04:00:42 -0800
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subscribe




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:16 EST 1996
Article: 44582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:40:59 GMT
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samy@netins.net (arnie) wrote:

<snip>

>>The class is a very good idea.  I was not fortunate enough
>>to ever have the opportunity to take one so taught myself by
>>reading books and practicing.  That was a lot of years ago.
>>
>>BTW you can use 6013 on AC only welders.  That was the rod I
>>used a lot with my 225 amp AC Lincoln - also some 7014, and
>>a few pounds of 7024.  It would take a long time to list the
>>stuff I built with that welder, a $200.00 bandsaw, saw, a
>>sears grinder, and a drill press ($179.00 cheap imported
>>thing that won't die after years of abuse so I can buy a new
>>one!).  The torch came later.
>>
>>Fitch
>>
>>in response to fitch,what you said about 6013 rod,it is not true,6013 
>rod can be used on d,c.+. Being certified in 
>s.m.a.w.,g.t.a.w.,g.m.a.w.,f.c.a.w.,o.a.w and pipe welding,i say to the 
>newbie,if you want to do it right,go to school it is money and time well 
>spent. Arnie

Arnie,

I've reread all my posting in this thread.  What did I say
about 6013 that is not true?  %(    I can not find anything
I said that is not backed up by my references.

Reading your statement that you can use 6013 on DC+ makes me
wonder if you are perhaps misreading the sentence in the
text above that reads "BTW you can use 6013 on AC only
welders."  That sentence is correct.  All it says is that
you can use 6013 on welders that do nothing but AC.   It
does not say, or even imply,  you can *not* use 6013 on DC
welders.  It says nothing at all about DC welding.  

I can't find in anything I wrote anyplace where I said that
you can not use 6013 on DC welders.  

Lincoln states in their book titled "The Procedure Handbook
Of Arc Welding" to use "DCSP for best performance" - page
6.2-10, twelfth edition - section on fill-freeze electrodes,
which is exactly what 6013 is.  That would be electrode
negative, AKA DC-.  You can also weld with it DCRP,
electrode +.  Nothing says you can not.  Both are listed,
Lincoln  just says to use DC- (DCSP) for best performance on
all applications except when arc blow is a problem.  They
recommend using AC to control arc blow. 

Lincoln bulletin M210, "Weldirectory" [sic] says the same
thing on page page 11, section on fill-freeze electrodes. 

Also in bulletin M210 they suggest that both their 6013 rods
(fleetweld 57  and fleetweld 37 are the Lincoln trade names)
are excellent for AC operation  even with 225 amp (low open
circuit voltage) AC welders.  

You can build a whole bunch of stuff with 6013 rod and a 225
amp AC transformer welder.  And with 6011 (fleetweld 180
among others) also as was quite correctly pointed out.

If I missed your point and it was really something else I
said about 6013 that you disagree with, please let me know.
I surely don't want to give out bad information.

Fitch



From awcook@achilles.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:17 EST 1996
Article: 44583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!mr.net!visi.com!uunet!in2.uu.net!204.191.213.61!ott.istar!istar.net!news.achilles.net!news
From: "Alastair W. Cook" <awcook@achilles.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:38:32 -0500
Organization: Achilles Internet Ltd.
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Davoman wrote:
> 
> I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
> I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
> Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
> To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
> FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!

It might surprise you to know that the people who are here chating are
interested in the art of BREWING and to look for any help they might
need.
Why you would think anyone cares about you sexual problems is beyond me.
Unless you have something constructive to say about brewing, I suggest
you take yourself and you profanities elsewhere.


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:19 EST 1996
Article: 44584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!news.PBI.net!mothra.westworld.com!goro-a1.ptw.com
From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:49:03 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Tom Krause <t..krause@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

<snip>

> My first big project other than some sheet metal work and basic stuff 
>was a dirt track vintage stock car to run with a local club.

<snip>

>Drove this thing 10 -15 races a year for three years,then scientifically
>tested it on a concrete wall in the spring of '96--OUCH!!

That was some "test".  Glad you are OK.  Have you considered
the concept of NDT?  (NDT = Non Destructive Testing)  It is
highly recommended in some circles .......<G>

Fitch




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:20 EST 1996
Article: 44585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Compressor for sale
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:52:05 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:



>I could whip one up for you on the CNC if you have a block of asprin.

>Peter

+1  LOL

Fitch



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:21 EST 1996
Article: 44586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 02:57:33 GMT
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>In article <58rn0tINNmgn@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu>,
>powers@colon.cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers) writes:

>>the stuff and now I will have to change my design to make use of
>>commercially available adamantite and neutronium........Any suggestions
>>on how to machine antimatter on an old logan?
>>
>>

>Can't be done it needs CNC. CNC can do anything, right Fitch?

>Peter
>Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! Can-do! CNC

Peter,

I *know* you could make a Logan do CNC, even with *! *!
stuff.

Fitch
Wondering why aren't they using Zilithium crystals,
*everybody* knows thats what Scotty used .... 




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:23 EST 1996
Article: 44587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Can a lathe bed be built up instead of ground down?
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 03:02:20 GMT
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bohigas@aol.com wrote:

>Peter:

>I am shure you are probably correct, but in my Spanish English
>technical dictionary it says so, never mind I made good note
>of your comments. And thank you for putting me right !!! 

>Translation is a difficult beast, most of the time and I have
>to cope with three languages all the time.

>Alberto
> 

You are doing great!  I am occasionaly outwitted by only one
language.

Fitch



From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:24 EST 1996
Article: 44588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: 10 Dec 1996 16:14:51 GMT
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What do you need to know about machining plastics?  I'm a mechanical
engineer, and use some machined plastics in my designs, mainly delrin, but
also torlon(sp?), peak and vespel.  We have an in house machinist who has
done alot of plastic machining, so I could forward questions to him as
well.

Paul

teamhail@aol.com


From jburnett@cline.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:25 EST 1996
Article: 44589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jburnett@cline.com (John A. Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 15 Dec 1996 20:20:49 GMT
Organization: Centerline Equipment Corporation
Lines: 22
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In article <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>,
ANDY POPKY  <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>peter,peter,peter
>
>stop your righteous god like statements
>
>what i posted was i no way spam
>i listed 6 machines that would 
>most likely be of interest to members of the group.

snip......................

>grow up  
>stop trying to be the den mother
>
>
>regards
>ap

Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the line.

John Burnett


From holder@netrixgw.netrix.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:27 EST 1996
Article: 44590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: holder@netrixgw.netrix.com (Bruce Holder)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Twist drill sizes (gage vs inch)
Date: 12 Dec 1996 20:51:49 GMT
Organization: Netrix Corporation
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <58pr96$7db@newshost.netrix.com>
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Curt Hagenlocher (chi@earthlink.net) wrote:
> Les Bartel <"(email me at) lbartel"@veribest.com> wrote in article
> <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com>...
> > Where can I get a table of drill sizes to convert from ga(u)ge to
> > inch?  I have a few taps that recommend a certain gage bit.  My
> > bits are sized in fractions of an inch.

  The MSC catalog (see FAQ) has a table inside the back cover. It
also has a column of decimal equivalents on several of the pages that
have all the drill sizes mixed together in one list.

  Machinery's Handbook has a table in the twist drill chapter.

  Tool vendors frequently offer a wall chart as a promotional item.
I got mine from the Denver dealer (whose name I have forgotten (so
just exactly how successful was the promotion?)) that I bought my
milling attachment from.

  At least one advertiser in HSM offers a wall chart.
 
  You can't have too many of them, especially if you sit and think
and doodle in a different room from where you cut metal.

> There is no direct correlation between them. [... H]ere are
> some sample diameters from Machinery's Handbook.

> Gage	Diameter (in)
> 10	.1935
> 9	.1960
> 8	.1990
> 7	.2010
> 6	.2040

  It's even worse than that. If you sit down with the number and letter
drills and plot the intervals between adjacent sizes, you'll see that
there _can't_ be a formula because there isn't a regular size difference
between adjacent sizes. So basically you have to have the table.

  You're going to want at least an MSC catalog and Machinery's Handbook
anyway if you're serious about metal. The MSC catalog is free for the
asking at (800)645-7270 and just by sheerest coincidence (No, I'm not
an MSC shareholder.) they have Machinery's Handbook on sale this month.

Bruce


From gbrown@ee.cornell.edu Tue Dec 17 14:29:28 EST 1996
Article: 44591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gbrown@ee.cornell.edu (Geoffrey Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:38:26 GMT
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Why not just buy 10w spindle oil.  I bought mine from McMaster Carr 
for $6-$8 /gallon.  They'll ups it and charge it to a card.

Geoffrey Brown

In article <19961215190400.OAA09200@ladder01.news.aol.com>, lwc1220@aol.com 
says...
>
>  I use tractor hydraulic fluid. Its just 10W non detergent oil as far as
>I can tell. It might have some antifoaming additives but I don't think
>that they will hurt anything on the lathe. The best thing is that you can
>get 5 gallons for about $25 which is a lifetime supply for the average
>home shop.
>
>   Wayne Cook
>
>Quality is like buying oats,
>        if you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.
>
>However, 
>        if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through
>the horse...
>                          
>That comes a little cheaper...



From jmears4449@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:29 EST 1996
Article: 44592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jmears4449@aol.com (JMears4449)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to Contact Lindsay publications
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:25:41 GMT
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Rick  You can call-em at  815 935 5353. They are in IL-joe


From kmag@lex.infi.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:30 EST 1996
Article: 44593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Kevin Maggard <kmag@lex.infi.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What is music wire?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:34:56 -0500
Organization: Maggard Technologies
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I have been using "music wire" sold through hobby and hardware stores
(distributed by K & S) for over 20 years now.  This has got to be about
the "toughest" stuff ever made.  What is it made of?   It is pretty
hard, it doesn't appear to anneal, very hard to cut or bend with your
hands.  I just came from the hobby store and felt like I was robbed for
what I had to pay for 3 feet of 3/32" rod.  I would like to know what to
ask for when I buy some more from a metal supplier.  I was also
surprised by how well it welded with TIG.  

-- 

Kevin Maggard
KMag@lex.infi.net      "Brute force and ignorance can overcome many
engineering obstacles."


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:31 EST 1996
Article: 44594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:44 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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JD wrote:
> The other option is to make a  rough cut and braze the ceramic
>>to the metal, which is aluminum plated copper.Is this possible or should I
>>just give up? Thanks for any info.

In all seriousness, the best place to ask for information on 'machining'
ceramics is over in the hobby group devoted to rockhounds and lapidary.
This stuff is best worked with equipment like the stuff used to cut and
shape semiprecious and precious materials.

There's an entire technology base there and it can be used to do some
fairly precise work.

--RC

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:33 EST 1996
Article: 44595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:27 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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David A. Holly wrote:
>The bellows, if large enough, could be as fast or faster than a spring
>piston type gun because the bellows would only need to be about .5 to 1
>inch apart.
>
>What to you think??????

I think if you could post a more complete description of a bellows-type air
rifle it would be very interesting.

I've never heard of one of these things and the only air rifles I know of
that are powerful enough for hunting big game used a compressed air
container (ie, the 18th Century Austrian design and their non-military
offshoots.)

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:34 EST 1996
Article: 44596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Radial engines in Automobiles
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:23 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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J Phelps wrote:
>At one time there was a motorcycle with a rotary engine.  If 
>I recall correctly it was called a Meguiar and was made 
>
I think there's a picture of one in Floyd Clymer's Motorcycle Scrapbook.

--RC


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:35 EST 1996
Article: 44597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:26:37 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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>>BTW you can use 6013 on AC only welders.  That was the rod I
>>used a lot with my 225 amp AC Lincoln - also some 7014, and
>>a few pounds of 7024.  It would take a long time to list the
>>stuff I built with that welder, a $200.00 bandsaw, saw, a
>>sears grinder, and a drill press ($179.00 cheap imported
>>thing that won't die after years of abuse so I can buy a new
>>one!).  The torch came later.
>>
>>Fitch
>>
>>in response to fitch,what you said about 6013 rod,it is not true,6013 
>rod can be used on d,c.+. Being certified in 
>s.m.a.w.,g.t.a.w.,g.m.a.w.,f.c.a.w.,o.a.w and pipe welding,i say to the 
>newbie,if you want to do it right,go to school it is money and time well 
>spent. Arnie
>

This is an interesting question... when I went to school, I was taught that if the 
last digit was odd, it was usable on AC.  Comments, anyone?

Regards, Mark



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:36 EST 1996
Article: 44598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:29:40 GMT
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Fitch... I shouda' read this first. Your post matches my memory exactly. 

Regards, Mark



From rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us Tue Dec 17 14:29:37 EST 1996
Article: 44599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us (Richard Hal Buxton)
Subject: DRO Shooting Star
Message-ID: <E2HArz.2J28@pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:33:34 GMT
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network
Lines: 48

Hi.
There was a question about this dro posted this week and I
answered it because I have purchased the unit for the school
where I teach.  It was suggested that I post how it is going to
the group in general.  As backgroud let me say that I ordered
this unit several months ago and called about once a month
since I ordered it to check on the order.  Shooting Star had
some trouble getting production up and going.  To their credit
they offered a refund if I couldn't wait but I decided to hang
in there because the problems seemed to be real and I have an
idea about how hard it is to get something off the ground.  The
DRO came last week.  The kids and I have the x axis mounted and
are working on the y.  With the x hooked up we have had a
chance to work with the unit.  What a joy!  I have to say that
I have never had a DRO before and outside of the 10 minutes I
had in college, I have never even used on before.  But I can
say this, it is fun and appears to be very accurate.  There
were several parts to the kit.  The main part is the readout
unit.  It appears to be well made.  The numbers are well
lighted and the keypad is easy to work.  It reads to the fourth
decimal place.  Easy to mount.  There are two racks and each
comes with a universtal mounting kit.  This takes a moment or
two of thought as to how you are going to mount the unit on the
individual piece of equipment.  Figuring it out is much harder
than than doing the work.  The basic idea is that the ends of
the racks have a fixture that has standoffs of various
lengths.  You pick what you need.  A bolt is to go through the
fixture and standoff and thread into the machine.  This
requires that you drill and tap some holes into your machine.  I needed
to drill and tap some holes but like anyone would be, I was not in a
big hurry to do so!  As I turned out, where I needed the holes
for the x axis were not in critical areas so I went ahead and
drilled them.  But if I hadn't wanted to, It would have been
easy to epoxy a plate to the machine and drill and tap the
holes in it.  On the y axis it looks like we are going to use a
seperate piece of steel to mount the standoffs and rack on, then
drill some holes in the steel to use existing bolts on the apron. 
 I bet we have eight hours of thinking and one hour of doing!
It should be mounted and rolling by the end of this week. Oh, I
forgot to mention that the racks are easy to cut to length.  A
hacksaw works fine.  Let me also say that I have no connection
to shooting star.  I was interested in a DRO and never had the
money to spend.  At the time, I had the money and the price was
right.  If there is any interest, I will follow this up at the
end of the week.  
Rick
P.S.  My provider does not have a text editor or spell check
for EMail so please overlook typeos!


From break@stlnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:38 EST 1996
Article: 44600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: keven baker <break@stlnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tools to have
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 03:05:25 -0500
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My father has just bought a Grizzly 4003  and I am looking for a
Christmas present for him.  Does anyone have any sugestion around the
$25 US range?  Time is short so if you know what mailorder outfit to
contact that info will be helpful also.

Thanks in advance
Keven


From russ@kepler-eng.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:39 EST 1996
Article: 44601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: russ@kepler-eng.com (Russ Kepler)
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Organization: Russ's home for wayward hackers.  Albuquerque, New Mexico
Message-ID: <E2A9BG.ExH@kepler-eng.com>
References: <19961207034700.WAA06174@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58hpms$bpn@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 04:18:51 GMT
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In article <58hpms$bpn@hpcc48.corp.hp.com>,
Peter Brooks <brooksp@corp.hp.com> wrote:
>plalbrecht@aol.com wrote:
>: What's a fair price for an Atlas shaper in top condition? I know of one
>: locally, looks showroom new. Stroke appears to be about 7 inches.
>
>I paid (on the high end) $1000 for a shaper with tooling and a table,
>but it seems to be in excellent shape.  I've seen some prices elsewhere
>(like in Michigan) where they go down to $300.  Mine was in California
>and I got mine from a used-tool seller.

I got mine for $250 - great shape, little to no hours, vise & tooling
(inside keyway tool, etc.)  All I'm missing is the doohicky that
helps support the table and the manual that would help me name that
doohicky.

-- 
Russ Kepler                                              russ@kepler-eng.com

                      Please Don't Feed the Engineers


From Ron@radior.medrmh.unimelb.edu.au Tue Dec 17 14:29:41 EST 1996
Article: 44602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ron@radior.medrmh.unimelb.edu.au (Ron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mini taps and dies
Date: 16 Dec 1996 03:40:54 GMT
Organization: Royal Melbourne Hospital
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I would like to make a set of mini tap and die (say .011" dia. like those 
diaplayed on Sherline Web Page). Could some kind soul please tell me what 
material should I use , and how to go about doing so ?
Thanks in advance

Ronnie
ron@radior.medrmh.unimelb.edu.au



From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:42 EST 1996
Article: 44603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 04:44:59 GMT
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rnorris583@aol.com wrote:

>In article <19961215173400.MAA06563@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>pnpnolan@aol.com writes:

>>
>>MSC has the Starret blade tensioner on special in their December flyer.
>>Can't recall how much as I have tossed it.
>>
>>Peter

>MSC sale price is $249.55

>Ron Norris

Well, I can probably make one for no more than twice that.  
<G>

Fitch




From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:43 EST 1996
Article: 44604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: 3 1/8" socket needed for project
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 06:16:56 GMT
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rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) wrote:

>I posted a reply to this from work, but couldn't find it from home.
>I'm not sure the work ones are getting through.

>Anyway,  my father in law used to work in a natural gas compressor
>plant.  They use enourmous internal combustion engines that burn the
>natural gas they pump to boost the pressure in the main transmission
>lines.  These engines are big!  3 foot cylinders that a man can crawl
>through.  I have an intake valve from one.  It stands about 30" high,
>weighs 80 lbs and has a face 10" across.  

>They used to have very large wrenches (needed chain falls).

>I would suggest that you call your local natural gas pipeline company
>and see if they have anything you can borrow.

>Note:  Any of you jokers out there thinking of making one of these
>engines into a chainsaw, forget it.

>Roger

>On 11 Dec 1996 03:48:33 GMT, todengine@aol.com wrote:

Naw, we wouldn't do that, but into a car, maybe with a small
radial as the pony motor for starting, of course!   <G>

Fitch





From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:44 EST 1996
Article: 44605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:51 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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Don Holly wrote:
>While I know people used to make air rifles which were used in
>hunting, I thought they were still very low-powered compared to
>firearms. Not true?
>
Depends on the kind of air rifle. Modern air rifles generally aren't much
more powerful than a .22, but in the 18th Century they had some that were
man-killers. The Austrian army had at least one regiment equipped with them
during the Napoleoniac wars and the French thought so highly of them they
ordered anyone caught carrying one to be executed.

Not only was there no explosion and smoke, but the things were repeaters,
firing a dozen shots or more before the air bottle needed to be changed.
Standard equipment for a soldier was the rifle and two extra charged air
bottles.

There was additional work on these high-powered air rifles up through the
19th Century (see for example 'The Return of Sherlock Holmes').

These rifles used a compressed air bottle for power, often shaped to be the
buttstock of the rifle. Militarily, their biggest drawback was you had to
drag a large, clumsy man-powered compressor to the edge of the battlefield
to recharge the bottles.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:46 EST 1996
Article: 44606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:54 GMT
Organization: Galahad
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michael jensen wrote:
> The negatives to macor are, it 
>brittle and doesn't have a very high tensile strength. If you use it 
>in a high stress application it will fail.
>
>     Good Luck
How is this stuff on heat transfer and electrical resistance? I understand
that's what he's looking for.

--RC


From rcook@BIX.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:47 EST 1996
Article: 44607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Rick Cook <rcook@BIX.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:44:39 GMT
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Richard Sewell wrote:
>> For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
>> with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that 
>> can
>> withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F. 
>
>I've seen 'machinable ceramics' for sale - at frightening prices, but I 
>think they're what you want. Alternatively, would it be possible to make 
>the right shape out of wet porcelain & fire it ?
>
Hmm. Contact the Norton Corp. in the Boston area. They're makers of
abrasives and ceramics and they're experts at this kind of problem. They
also make diamond films that might be the best way to do what you want.

--RC


From mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu Tue Dec 17 14:29:48 EST 1996
Article: 44608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mccreary@msumusik.mursuky.edu (Terry McCreary)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Building Tools..
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 05:15:30 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville, Louisville KY USA
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Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:

>Randall Semeiks wrote:
>> 
>> Has anybody built the machine tools from the "Build your own Metal
>> Working Shop from Scrap" series by Dave Gingery offered by Lindsay
>> Publications?  I have these books but have not started construction
>> yet.  I was wondering how difficult they actually are to build.  And
>> if anybody else has seen these books, what is your opinion on them?

>Haven't tried any YET...  The books sure make GREAT reading.  Doubt that
>I will be able to pour metal, given my location.  BUT--(see attached)..

With an electric furnace, non-oil bonded sand, and very clean scrap
you might get away with it almost anywhere.

>I did see a Gingery (type?) shaper runnning powered with a hit'n'miss
>engine at the Jerome AZ engine show last spring.  Chips alll over the
>place.
>Sure seemed to do the job.

I finished only the lathe and don't know if I'll go farther (now that
I have some access to a machine shop at my university).  I scaled it
up to 10x24" which was not a good idea.  I'd guess a year and a half
of spare-time effort.  It runs fairly well, and one of these days I'll
replace the spindle and bushings so it runs smoother.  Still, I was
able to take a 0.1" thick chip off a piece of (leaded?) steel in one
pass.

I used square hotrolled steel tubing with .25" wall for the bed.  Less
work than making a special flask and pattern for one casting, though
it was a bear to file flat.

If you want to start the series, I'd suggest you dive in.  Pick the
easiest part (apron), make the pattern, and cast that sucker.  And
enjoy yourself!

Terry McCreary
If I knew what I was doing, it wouldn't be research...



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:50 EST 1996
Article: 44609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:41:46 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <32B4B6EA.BBD@hre.com>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com> <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com>
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John A. Burnett wrote:
> 
> In article <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>,
> ANDY POPKY  <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >peter,peter,peter
> >
> >stop your righteous god like statements
> >
> >what i posted was i no way spam
> >i listed 6 machines that would
> >most likely be of interest to members of the group.
> 
> snip......................
> 
> >grow up
> >stop trying to be the den mother
> >
> >
> >regards
> >ap
> 
> Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the line.
> 
> John Burnett



Hmmmm, I enjoy reading a post of machines for sale. Even if they come 
>from  a dealer. At least Andy CONTRIBUTES to the group ( although some 
might argue with me on that point! :^)  I have far less problem with 
someone who is here on a regular basis advertising their equipment than 
the "hit and run" types who only are here long enough to drop off their 
ad and blow out the door.

Of course, I suppose that I am prejudiced being a SHERLINE dealer. I 
occasionally advertise my specials here on the group as well. I DO 
disagree that what Andy posted was spam. My understanding of Spam is 
crossposting to numerous groups, unrelated items or information. Andy's 
post was appropriate for the group posted to.

Of course, Andy paid me $8.00 to say all this.

Jim " Easily bribed" Harvey
sendmoneytome@hre.com
http://hre.com

P.S. Please do not hold me responsible for the photo on my web site home 
page. --- Thank you



From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:51 EST 1996
Article: 44610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.proaxis.com!news
From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: New welder coming
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:37:38 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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For the group... since we were on the MIG vs stick subject, I might mention that our 
shop is about to receive a brand new Miller XMT 304 (?) mig pulse welder. Supposedly 
does everything but sing. The big advantage is supposed to be out-of position spray 
tranfer welding.  Does dc TIG, MIG, and stick all in one little box the size of a 
very small suitcase. The cart, feeder and cylinders dwarf it. I will give a report 
on it once I try it out.

Regards, Mark



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:29:52 EST 1996
Article: 44611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kurt Bjorn" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC wars
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:14:46 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
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Please forgive some simple questions from someone fascinated by CNC but a
bit intimidated...  

Can a B'port without Z axis feed be converted to a simple 2-axis CNC? 
and...

Does CNC conversion inhibit manual use of a mill?  Thanks to CNC gurus.

-- 
Kurt Bjorn


From rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca Tue Dec 17 14:29:53 EST 1996
Article: 44612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: rgrauman@compusmart.ab.ca (Robert Grauman)
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:10:15 mountain
Message-ID: <rgrauman.102.00837FE0@compusmart.ab.ca>
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In article <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> pnpnolan@aol.com writes:
>From: pnpnolan@aol.com

>In article <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com>, ANDY POPKY
><MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>>thats all folks...............
>>
>>
>>andy popky
>>516 385 9452
>>
>>

>Now you *are* spamming Andy.

>Peter

I don't consider any of Andy Popkys' postings to be spamming.
I find them useful, interesting, and appropriate to this ng.

			Robert Grauman in Sunny Alberta


From elliot@hitide.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:55 EST 1996
Article: 44613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:17:34 -0800
Organization: HighTide Instruments
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32B4DB6E.1AD@silcom.com>
References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> <58ugra$qp6@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>
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>  I do have a wierd
> quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
> supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with ether.
> When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether is
> injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
> ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22 cal.

>                                 Roger L.
I bet some other gas would work as well.  How about some butane and a
piezo electric igniter?  

Elliot Burke
HighTide Instruments
elliot@hitide.com


From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:29:57 EST 1996
Article: 44614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: EMCO CNC LATHE PICTURE
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:31:46 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 24
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ANDY POPKY wrote:
> 
> greetings
> 
> i have a jpeg of the EMCO compact 5 cnc lathe
> it is at the following location
> 
> http://www.marshallmachinery.com/images/emco2.jpg
> 
> regards
> ap


Yo Andy,

Nice photo.  I'm not interested in the lathe, except for the FZ collection of course, 
but I am interested in what seems to be a quick change toolpost in the photo.

I am, because I will be getting my 6" swing lathe from TOS in a few weeks now, but the 
Aloris style toolposts do not fit that lathe.  I wonder if the EMCO one in your photo 
does, since after all this is a 5" lathe.  Do you have any info.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From mjones@mhsgate.ewi.org Tue Dec 17 14:29:58 EST 1996
Article: 44615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!news
From: Marty Jones <mjones@mhsgate.ewi.org>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Welding and Joining Newsgroups (2nd Call for Votes)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:16:54 -0500
Organization: EWI, Materials Joining Technology
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <32B575F6.2ECD@mhsgate.ewi.org>
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Please see the 2nd Call for Votes for these proposed newsgroups in
news.announce.newgroups titled "2nd CFV: sci.engr.joining.misc,
sci.engr.joining.welding".  If you have any questions, e-mail me.

-Marty Jones
mpjones@ewi.org


From bvaughn@bellsouth.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:00 EST 1996
Article: 44616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!uunet!in3.uu.net!205.152.0.23!news.atl.bellsouth.net!usenet
From: Brian & Angie Vaughn <bvaughn@bellsouth.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 01:11:39 -0500
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <32B4E81B.23D5@bellsouth.net>
References: <32b33ea6.0@mothra.westworld.com> <19961215173400.MAA06555@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In article <32b33ea6.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
> Williams) writes:
> 
> >by a certified professional welder.  He preheated it because
> >it is a severly constrained joint, TIG welded it top and
> >bottom, stress relieved it after he was done, and then after
> >cleaning it up used liquid penetrant to be sure there was no
> >cracking.  Belt and suspenders maybe, but I had no more
> >problems.
> >
> >
> 
> Unless they were a competent and certified welder I cannot imagine why
> anyone would attempt anything like steering gear on a car. Weld anything
> you like pretty much anywhere you like on the car but steering gear, pay
> the money or pay the price.

The only repair for the Model A steering gear is to weld a new ball
assembly onto the arms as nobody is building them anymore.  You must
keep in mind that the car is only going to go a max of 60MPH downhill
with a tail wind and that nobody in his right mind is going to take his
newly restored Ford across the field as Henry had envisioned. Also this
story is probably an isolated case as I have never heard of anybody
haveing any problems before.

Brian


From pryor@gte.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:01 EST 1996
Article: 44617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news-dc-9.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.sgi.com!news.sprintlink.net!news-stk-200.sprintlink.net!newsfeed.gte.net!usenet
From: Lynne Pryor <pryor@gte.net>
Newsgroups: rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.sport.baseball,rec.collecting.sport.basketball,rec.collecting.sport.football,rec.collecting.sport.hockey,rec.collecting.sport.misc,rec.collecting.stamps,rec.collecting.villages,rec.collecting.vinyl,rec.crafts,rec.crafts.beads,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.crafts.carving,rec.crafts.dollhouses,rec.crafts.glass,rec.crafts.jewelry,rec.crafts.marketplace,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.polymer-clay,rec.crafts.pottery,rec.crafts.quilting,rec.crafts.rubberstamps,rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace,rec.crafts.textiles.misc,rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
Subject: Re: abusive Sex message--document source below
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:37:31 -0800
Organization: http://www3.beckett.com/userpages/andymoog.html
Lines: 48
Message-ID: <32B4FC3B.3808@gte.net>
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.collecting.dolls:31250 rec.collecting.ornaments:88 rec.collecting.phonecards:8791 rec.collecting.postal-history:2385 rec.collecting.sport:139 rec.collecting.sport.baseball:197213 rec.collecting.sport.basketball:115192 rec.collecting.sport.football:145666 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:106035 rec.collecting.sport.misc:14472 rec.collecting.stamps:41551 rec.collecting.villages:5863 rec.crafts:137 rec.crafts.beads:11945 rec.crafts.brewing:111131 rec.crafts.carving:1104 rec.crafts.dollhouses:3231 rec.crafts.glass:4311 rec.crafts.jewelry:16324 rec.crafts.marketplace:11002 rec.crafts.metalworking:44617 rec.crafts.misc:27518 rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11741 rec.crafts.pottery:3381 rec.crafts.quilting:147 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2278 rec.crafts.textiles:155 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1109 rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5489 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:96956 rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:34358

Feel free to contact lava.net

> NNTP-Posting-Host: ohia025.lava.net

Diane Haddock wrote:
> 
> If anyone can read this and figure out where it came from, please inform
> the server, we would all appreciate it!
> Thanks in advance.  From the rec.crafts.beads group.
> 
> Path:
> southwind.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-chi-8.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pen-14.sprintlink.net!fpmbh.c
> From: Davoman <Davo147@aol.com>
> Newsgroups:
> rec.collecting.dolls,rec.collecting.misc,rec.collecting.ornaments,rec.collecting.phonecards,rec.collecting.postal-history,rec.collecting.sport,rec.collecting.s
> Subject: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
> Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:30:28 -1000
> Organization: America On Line Inc.
> Lines: 5
> Message-ID: <32B3E154.3040@aol.com>
> References: <Web-2111961717140001@dialup110.bv.sgi.net>
> <572m02$j6j@camel1.mindspring.com> <329EB71A.5315@aol.com>
> <c37cc$c3116.31a@NEWS> <32A828D8.7C80@roe.ac.uk>
> <c77cc$11211e.380@MYCROFT> <58ij57$ojb@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
> <32ACFF64.30FD@gramercy.ios.com>
> NNTP-Posting-Host: ohia025.lava.net
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win95; I; 16bit)
> Xref: southwind.net rec.collecting.dolls:29460
> rec.collecting.phonecards:8612 rec.collecting.postal-history:2491
> rec.collecting.sport.baseball:187558
> rec.collecting.sport.basketball:110020
> rec.collecting.sport.football:139219 rec.collecting.sport.hockey:100513
> rec.collecting.sport.misc:13749 rec.collecting.stamps:40185
> rec.collecting.villages:5707 rec.collecting.vinyl:88 rec.crafts:241
> rec.crafts.beads:11638 rec.crafts.brewing:111103 rec.crafts.carving:824
> rec.crafts.dollhouses:3429 rec.crafts.glass:4134
> rec.crafts.jewelry:15883 rec.crafts.marketplace:10840
> rec.crafts.metalworking:43774 rec.crafts.misc:27357
> rec.crafts.polymer-clay:11153 rec.crafts.pottery:3219
> rec.crafts.quilting:382 rec.crafts.rubberstamps:2279
> rec.crafts.textiles:386 rec.crafts.textiles.marketplace:1179
> rec.crafts.textiles.misc:5430 rec.crafts.textiles.needlework:93262
> rec.crafts.textiles.quilting:32859
> 
> I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!(snip)


From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:03 EST 1996
Article: 44618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!arclight.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!news.islandnet.com!news
From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: toolposts
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 11:28:39 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 68
Message-ID: <32b44a76.184062792@news.islandnet.com>
References: <alshinn-1512962001290001@ppp097-sf2.sirius.com>
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alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) wrote:

>. KBC tool has three that take an Aloris type
>tool holder. There is a piston type for $113, a wedge type for $153, and a
>gib type for $274.

Ok, for my 0.02 cents worth ... first of all I would like to point out
that the KBC tool posts (and holders and sets) go on sale quite
frequently at 20 percent off.
I would also like to point out that the 'gib type for $274' is
actually an Armstrong post (check the page heading) and as a result I
would think substantially better than the KBC (China) types.

I myself own the KBC wedge type (which is the same concept as the
Armstrong gib type). It is a reasonably good tool post but in
retrospect I probably should have saved up for an American made post.
This wasn't an option at the time due to cost (and the KBC sale).
I looked at the piston type post but quite frankly I have no
confidence in this setup. I have no experience to substantiate that
feeling but looking at the locking action, you have a piston pushing
against a dovetailed holder onto a seating surface that in my opinion
shouldn't be a seating surface (underside of dovetail). The wedge type
pulls the holder towards the tool post which seems a more secure and
repeatable way of doing this. The seating surfaces at that point are
much more confidence inspiring .... 

Now a couple of points on the tool holders (KBC type).
They do not appear to be of a hardened nature. The set screws that
hold the bits in have a tendency to deform due to constant
tightening/loosening. The #7 holder (parting blade) only clamps the
blade at the very front with a wedge and there is no guiding groove on
the bottom for the blade so it sometimes doesn't sit right. I have
also had the blade fall out due to vibration or side load (yes, I know
I am not supposed to have either under usual circumstances).
The boring bar tool holder has a sleeve in it to reduce the bar size
>from  1" to 3/4 ". In my case the sleeve was poorly sized (and it is
not hardened) and it was a real pain getting boring bars in/out of the
holder until I reamed out the sleeve. Also the locking mechanism of
the boring bar to the tool holder is a poor arrangement.

To sum it up, I came from a rocker tool post and the KBC Wedge type
was a night and day change for the positive. Now that I know a bit
more about tool posts and holders I would prefer to go to a higher
quality version. BTW, even if you go for an American made unit, check
out the individual tool holding methods  ... it might be better to
mix/match American brand holders for optimum performance.


Hope this helps somewhat.

Jens




 Now, realize that I am trying to replace a rocker type
>tool post so I will be pretty easy to please. The real question is ---How
>poor is the piston type relative to the gib type (with which I have had
>good experiences in the past) ??
> Also, anyone out there with a catalogue price that's better? 
>Comments will be much appreciated.!
>
>-- 
>Al Shinn  (Tinker)
>alshinn@sirius.com
>Experience the beginnings of microscopy - visit
>http://sirius.com/~alshinn/



From ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:30:05 EST 1996
Article: 44619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-hub.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!news.nacamar.de!nntp.uio.no!solace!mn6.swip.net!plug.news.pipex.net!pipex!hole.news.pipex.net!pipex!bowl.news.pipex.net!pipex!bt!NewsWatcher!user
From: ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk (Nigel Cliffe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BA Taps
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 07:47:02 +0000
Organization: BTL
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <ncliffe-1612960747020001@132.146.65.223>
References: <32AEC35F.3C85@veribest.com> <19961211221100.RAA07278@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B028D4.5CB2@worldnet.att.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.146.65.223
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In article <32B028D4.5CB2@worldnet.att.net>, NJRich
<r.mcbride@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> Hi ,
> 
> Does anyone know a stateside source for BA taps? I am building the 
> Stuart model Victoria. The taps are a must. Victoria requires 
> BA 2,5 and 7. ( A source besides Coles models please )


Reeves in Birmingham, UK have them. 

http://www.fotec.co.uk/mehs/reeves/mindex.htm

- Nigel.

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,   mailto:ncliffe@hfnet.bt.co.uk   BT Labs, Ipswich, UK
   Opinions my own, they may or may not be shared by my employers 


From garfield@pilgrimhouse.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:06 EST 1996
Article: 44620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!feed1.news.erols.com!news.dra.com!news.he.net!newshub.internex.net!masters0.news.internex.net!usenet
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Miller Tig welders
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:26:11 GMT
Organization: Pilgrim House
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <33017817.208634130@santaclara01.news.internex.net>
References: <32B10835.20A5@bellsouth.net> <58tk72$8ig@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net> <32bedd8b.103534254@santaclara01.news.internex.net> <stagesmith-1512960103460001@cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net>
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On Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:03:41 -0700, stagesmith@earthlink.net (Ernie
Leimkuhler) wrote:

>In article <32bedd8b.103534254@santaclara01.news.internex.net>,
>garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) wrote:

>> 1.      The Econotig has two ranges of heat, and the foot pedal does not
>> continuously vary over that range, like the SQ does. On the EcTig the
>> pedal is just on & off; the power within the range is knob-set. 

>Okay this part is dead wrong, but the rest is correct.

Hey Ernie.

Dang, I hate it when you're right!! 8)  I goofed. Synapses totally
misfired. The problem is NOT that the pedal doesn't control, it's that
it always covers the WHOLE range, and is NOT limited by the power knob
setting, like the SQ is. And Ernie, that is what you mention as well,
where below you talk about difficulty in precise control of the heat on
thin stuff.

Ahh, I just shoulda let you answer the question. I forgot you had an
EconoTig.

Cheers,
Garfield

>>On the
>> SQ, whatever MAX power you dial in, then the foot control is a
>> proportional controller over that range...lots more control, and
>> especially on the fly. One more thing, the lowest amp on the SQ is much
>> lower than the EcTig: min = 12A on SQ vrs. min = 20A on the EcTig.
>> THIS can be very important for thin SHEET METAL work. You can set max at
>> say 25A, start at 25A and immediately pedal down to say 18A. Nice.
>snip
>> The EconoTigs ARE good units, and widely used; it appears the Lincoln is
>> just a next generation product that for the moment has it over the
>> Miller by a tad.
>
>I've had my Econotig for almost 3 years, and although it has done stalwart
>service, I will be the first to sing its praises and lament it's
>shortcomings.
>The main problem with the Econotig is that the pedal is always covering
>the entire power range ( 0 - 170 amps high, and 0 - 120 amps low ).
>This makes fine control a matter of extended practice and steady nerves.
>The other thing that bugs me is that it only has a High and Low in AC,
>which is fine for Aluminum, but when welding thin steel or bandsaw blades
>it makes the pedal a very touchy affair.



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:07 EST 1996
Article: 44621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: toolposts
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:19:45 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <32B576A1.30C9@cyberhighway.net>
References: <alshinn-1512962001290001@ppp097-sf2.sirius.com>
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To: Alan Shinn <alshinn@sirius.com>

Alan Shinn wrote:
> 
> Being Christmas and all-- I am sorta hoping Santa will bring me a new
> toolpost for my Logan 10". KBC tool has three that take an Aloris type
> tool holder. There is a piston type for $113, a wedge type for $153, and a
> gib type for $274. Now, realize that I am trying to replace a rocker type
> tool post so I will be pretty easy to please. The real question is ---How
> poor is the piston type relative to the gib type (with which I have had
> good experiences in the past) ??
>  Also, anyone out there with a catalogue price that's better?
> Comments will be much appreciated.!

Enco has (page 160) gib type toolpost only, for about $140 or 
a set with 7 holders for about $300.
 
> --
> Al Shinn  (Tinker)
> alshinn@sirius.com
> Experience the beginnings of microscopy - visit
> http://sirius.com/~alshinn/

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html




From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:08 EST 1996
Article: 44622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tools to have
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:28:25 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 64
Message-ID: <32B578A8.3D04@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32B502C5.7035@stlnet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ts1-05.phx.cyberhighway.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------7AF345D4A5E"
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
To: keven baker <break@stlnet.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------7AF345D4A5E
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

keven baker wrote:
> 
> My father has just bought a Grizzly 4003  and I am looking for a
> Christmas present for him.  Does anyone have any sugestion around the
> $25 US range?  Time is short so if you know what mailorder outfit to
> contact that info will be helpful also.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Keven

Normally (maybe not at Christmas) an order Faxed or Phoned to MSC
today would be in Arizona by Wednesday (See attachment)

I faxed an order to Enco  in Tempe AZ (30 miles away) last Monday
and if I hadn't called Friday the Fax would still be sitting in
their drawer!  


-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html

--------------7AF345D4A5E
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="MSC.txt"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="MSC.txt"


Supplies, tools, etc.

MSC Industrial Supply Co.
Phone: 1-800-645-7270
FAX:   1-800-255-5067

Fantastic Service and Delivery

I ordered a catalog on a Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!


I ordered a dividing head on a Monday (FAX)
Received (in AZ) on Wednesday!Then a gentleman 
called and asked if I had received the
order in good condition!!!

Do they want your business?  You bet..

--------------7AF345D4A5E--





From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:10 EST 1996
Article: 44623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: teamhail@aol.com (TeamHail)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to you make Wood Pellets !
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:12:12 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <19961216171100.MAA15019@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <19961215181900.NAA07638@ladder01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder01.news.aol.com
X-Admin: news@aol.com

My parents had a pellet stove in there cabin, it worked well, but
sometimes the worm drive unit would clog.  Plus, if the power went out,
you had to fire up the generator to power the fan and feed unit.  They're
efficient, and put out alot of heat, so if you use em for a sole heat
source, and you have to buy firewood, then you might save some $ over many
years, if you have your own firewood, get a good woodburning stove.

Paul


From hardy@sweng.stortek.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:13 EST 1996
Article: 44624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Steve Hardy <hardy@sweng.stortek.com>
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
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michael jensen wrote:
> 
> VAntonova (vantonova@aol.com) wrote:
> : For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
> : with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
> : withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F.
> 
>      Try Macor a machinable glass ceramic.  You can purchase macor out
> of the McMaster-Carr catalog.  The big plus to Macor is that it can be
> machined with High Speed or Carbide tool.  It is also possible to hold
> a very very tight tolerance +/- .0001 inches depending on the
> acccuracy of your machine tools.  The negatives to macor are, it
> brittle and doesn't have a very high tensile strength. If you use it
> in a high stress application it will fail.
> 
>      Good Luck
> 
>      Mike J.

Yes, Macor.  Only $3000 per Kg from Crown Scientific in Australia.
Does McMaster-Carr have it for a more down-to-earth price and if
so how can I contact them?

After all, this stuff is basically mica in a borosilicate glass
matrix.  I would have expected the price to be about as much as
brass, but nooooo - it just _had_ to be totally unafordable.
It is used on the space shuttle.  Anything which goes into space
seems to attract a 10000% 'Pentagon' premium.

Regards,
SJH
Canberra, Australia


From packrat@proaxis.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:15 EST 1996
Article: 44625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 16 Dec 1996 02:50:46 GMT
Organization: Viewpoint Corp., Packrat Sales & Leasing
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Sorry, gentlemen... our power failed last night right as I was typing that message. 
I could hear the fuses explode on the pole a block away! Anyway, as I was saying, it 
seems strange that the meter works for all sizes of blades, but that is what the 
instructions say.  The gauge is calibrated in thousandths. One tensions the blade to 
030. I am not sure if that is the true distance though... it works on a lever 
action. I paid about $200 for mine but that was a number of years ago. It is a very 
useful thing to have.

The thing to remember about blade tension is that the *distance* the blade stretches 
per inch will be the same for all blades. The *tension* required to produce this 
change will vary according to the blade thickness and width. This is why the saws 
with 1" blades have such beefy wheels and bearings.

I hope this sheds some light on this subject.

Regards, Mark



From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Dec 17 14:30:16 EST 1996
Article: 44626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: darylb@bnr.ca (darylb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Astrolabe Makers?
Date: 10 Dec 1996 22:26:32 GMT
Organization: bnr
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkmc8.bnr.ca

Hey guy's, calm down. This group is meant for freindly info exchange. It
appears some people may be on the information foot path 8^). Hey that's
OK. I asked the original question and was only delighted to answer the
query as to what an astrolabe was (and I'm a 2 finger typer too). I
suspect a few people who never thought to ask learned something new. I
only wish some of this traffic was directed at my original question as to
how they (the mater) are put together. Thick solid vs thin sheet rivited
to thick piece.

One who likes his "meat" rare ;^)
Daryl

-- 
- Clouds are high flying fogs.
- ³...ethidium bromide is a potent mutagen and carcinogen, and
the Merck index lists it as having a somewhat bitter taste²
- All waste ultimately becomes food.


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:17 EST 1996
Article: 44627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Generators, motors as generators
Date: 11 Dec 1996 00:02:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I'm thinking about building my own gas powered generator.  Can surplus
motors be used as generators?  Or, do I need to buy a "real" one.  Does
Northern Hydraulics carry genearators less motors?  I'm interested in both
single and 3 phase power.  I'm interested in supplying power for remote
locations, and for being able to power small tools outa my car.

The second part of this question could also be, does anyone have plans, or
know of plans for engines to provide practical power?  I love the model
engines, but it would also be nice to make some stuff that could be put to
use.  I figure 5-10 hp would be the range I'd be looking at.  A steam
engine with a wood burning boiler would be real neat for a remote cabin. 
Just a thought

Thanks,

Paul

ps, personal responses would be great.


From gord-gil@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:18 EST 1996
Article: 44628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gord-gil@ix.netcom.com (Randy Gordon-Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: !!!! THIS CAN'T FAIL !!!! IT WORKED FOR ME !!!!
Date: 16 Dec 1996 09:38:18 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Hahaha - made you look!!!

Read on towards the end of this message for the pyramid scheme.  But first...

In a message last week, I took a good-natured jab at Jim Harvey for forgetting 
to send some T-nuts he'd promised for the Sherline mill I bought from him a 
while back.  Far from giving me a whack up the side of the head for the 
public trashing I gave him (my wife's from back east; I know about such 
things), in the mail Friday came, unbilled, three sets of brand-new (rumored to 
be machined from SPACESHIP ALLOY) T-nuts from, you guessed it, Jim "Pass the 
nuts" Harvey.  I just want to publically thank Jim for friendliness and service 
beyond the call of duty.

Now the pyramid scheme:

Take five sincere holiday wishes for health, good will, and prosperity, wrap 
each in a sincere smile, and deliver to the next five people you encounter.  
See if they don't end up multiplying 10,000fold.

Best wishes to all, not just for the holidays, but throughout the coming year!

Randy
--
gord-gil@ix.netcom.com ,----.___________  _______________  __________________
Randy Gordon-Gilmore  // =   =  === ==  || ==    == == = || == == ==  =  == =|
Benicia, CA, USA     /-O==O------------o==o-------------o==o------------o==o-'
                                  -=CB&Q 9900 "Pioneer Zephyr"=-



From robert.andereck@den.mmc.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:20 EST 1996
Article: 44629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Bob Andereck <robert.andereck@den.mmc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Advanced "Toy" Gyroscope
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:06:52 -0700
Organization: Lockheed Martin -- Denver  InterNetNews site
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <32AECE0C.1921@den.mmc.com>
References: <329F3572.3D0E@interport.net> <shockey.892.06755969@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY> <57ois7$9ru@news.whidbey.com> <32A250A7.15D6@interport.net> <32A66246.2198@interport.net> <32aaf0f2.64930827@news.demon.co.uk> <32ac97ee.252181745@news.iinet.net.au> <32adcdd0.252572503@news.demon.co.uk>
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Andy Dingley wrote:
> 
> The moving finger of phony@see.sig.for.real having written:
> 
> > Just a thought: I wouldn't expect ex-missile gyros to last long.
> 
> I'm not so sure. The build quality on this thing far exceeds anything
> I can imagine being able to afford by any other means.

Any part on a missle is built heavy-duty to withstand the vibration and
shock environments of launch and flight.  Depending on the particular
missile, they may be required to be powered up for extended times.  You
are not likely to wear out a gyro very soon.

Bob


From buffalo@eosinc.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:21 EST 1996
Article: 44630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dennis j brown <buffalo@eosinc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: test world wide
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:33:50 -0600
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
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Rooster wrote:
> 
> i am trying to find out if my news program is restricting my posts to my
> internet site only.
> 
> this is a test.  if you are from Norway or North Dakota, you could e-mail
> me and i would know if this is getting out.
> 
> thanks in advance.
> 
> --
> rooster


O.K in central Il.


From buffalo@eosinc.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:23 EST 1996
Article: 44631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dennis j brown <buffalo@eosinc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rust and other finishes
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 21:38:18 -0600
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
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John Ingham wrote:
> 
> Onst I saw a show where a gal was putting yogert on flower pots to get
> the mold look... prehaps a coat on your steel would do the trick......
> some acids are rapid oxidizers... might try that if the fridge is
> empty.
> 
> On Fri, 06 Dec 1996 16:54:30 -0800, Philip Canaday <phil@pe.net>
> wrote:
> 
> >I am looking for a fast way to speed up rusting as a finish for steel
> >art. Also would like to learn other ways to create unique finishes.
> >Thank You
> >Phil@pe.net


check out Brownells books or machineries hand book. a friend of mine
uses a combination of acid water and a handfull of nails to make up a
rusting solution for rust blueing guns


From jforbes@primenet.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:24 EST 1996
Article: 44632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jforbes@primenet.com (J. Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove (Was Re: NEWBIE WELDER)
Date: 16 Dec 1996 00:11:01 -0700
Organization: Primenet
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In article <19961215153800.KAA03111@ladder01.news.aol.com> bohigas@aol.com writes:

>Dear Fellow Metalworker:

>When you good US friends talk about wood pellets, what do you
>realy mean ?

>What is their size ?

About 1/4" diameter (thats about 6.5 mm, right?) by 1/2 to 2" long (they break 
easily)

>What is their prize by the 100 weight ?

About $200 a ton (2000 pounds) here in southern Arizona.

>and lastly how are they made ? Are they just pressed,
>or sawn from free growing timber.

They are sawdust, extruded thru a 1/4" hole, it appears.

We've been using a pellet stove for heat for the past 3 years.  We burn about 
a ton a year.  Sierra Vista is only a stones throw from the Mexican border, 
but we're over 4000 ft elevation, so it does get nippy occasionally.

Jim

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim and Janet Forbes                          jforbes@primenet.com
Sierra Vista, AZ             URL= http://www.primenet.com/~jforbes
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From codeng@power.co.za Tue Dec 17 14:30:25 EST 1996
Article: 44633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: codeng@power.co.za
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:51:04 GMT
Organization: The South African Internet Exchange.
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:



I used to spray all my stuff with a standard Craftsman siphon type air
spray gun but I had a lot of problems spraying thick paint (needs to
cut
>but with the small can on the gun and the low volume nozzle on it, it
>took forever to do. I can still kick myself for not having come up
>with my air gun attachment sooner. Instead of maybe 15 hours of work I
could have done the job in an hour or two.

Jens 


Sounds Great.  Please post more details, dimensions etc for  the
"Dohickey on the end"

This may just be the answer to a problem that I have!

Thank you and Kind Regards


John

It is easier to cut off than to cut on.



From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:26 EST 1996
Article: 44634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SPACESHIP ALUMINUM SCRAP IS A JOKE FOLKS
Date: 14 Dec 1996 14:23:42 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <01bbe9c8$c99162a0$f11f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Aww... and here I was, getting together an order for some of that there
"spaceship" aluminum. I only was tangentially involved with the Appollo
birds, and I don't really call them spaceships, anyway. Shucks.
Les "Disappointed in St. Louis" Whitaker :) & <G>

Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com> wrote in article <32AF7FC4.42A@hre.com>...
> I apologize for having to post this. I have received several replies 
> asking for more information on the 'SPACESHIP ALUMINUM" I purported to 
> have for sale.
> I keep forgetting to include smiley's in these posts.
> Ah, sometimes the High Humor of rec.crafts.metalworking gets a bit out 
> of hand. ( :^) - :^) - :^) ) so there is no mistaking this.
> 
> Jim "Ashamed of hisself" Harvey
> joker!@hre.com
> http://hre.com
> 
> 


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:28 EST 1996
Article: 44635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Nice newsgroup
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:26:21 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
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Bill Neely wrote:
> 
> I really like the friedly, helpful tone of this newsgroup. 

friendly???? are shure you posted to the right group???

ap


From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 14:30:29 EST 1996
Article: 44636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 13:28:48 GMT
Organization: Wayne State University
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Elliot Burke (elliot@silcom.com) wrote:
: >  I do have a wierd
: > quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
: > supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with ether.
: > When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether is
: > injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
: > ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22 cal.

: >                                 Roger L.
: I bet some other gas would work as well.  How about some butane and a
: piezo electric igniter?  

The problem is getting the right mixture. The Barakuda rifle used the 
ether to augment the spring power; the gun was basically spring powered,
the ether only adding a small percentage of power when it ignited from
the heat generated by the piston compressing the ether/air mix.

--mike


From makinomakino@msn.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:30 EST 1996
Article: 44637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 06:31:14 -0600
From: makinomakino@msn.com
Subject: Machining Solutions
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850405474.23725@dejanews.com>
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Check out Makino's new Web site at www.makino.com for the latest process innovations and technology enhancements in the automotive, aerospace and die/mold industries.

www.makino.com
makinomakino@msn.com
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:31 EST 1996
Article: 44638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: What is a good thin homemade cutting fluid
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:19:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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I just bought myself a couple of nice little 24v surgical pumps for
peanuts and am intending on using it to pump cutting fluid for my
lathe and mill.

Is there a good, thin cutting fluid that can be made at home? or do I
really need to buy some?

Any of you home chemists out there?

I'll be cutting mostly mild steel, tool steel and aluminum.

Thanks in advance 

Steve
stz@garlic.com


From rryan@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:33 EST 1996
Article: 44639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rryan@ix.netcom.com (Rob Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:26:53 GMT
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John L Ferrell <johnferrell@sprintmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
>
>John Ferrell in Julian NC..
>
>I intentionally end sentenances with prepositions because it it annoys some people like 
>a sqeeky chalkboard!

That is something up with which I cannot put!

Rob


From rona@usa.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:34 EST 1996
Article: 44640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rona@usa.net (Ronald Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking suggestions needed
Date: 16 Dec 1996 15:46:55 GMT
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The technique you described sounds good. I have made several knives 
basically the same way, but I didn't have the equipment to do all of the 
polishing. One thing that I noticed that you were planning to do is hold 
the handle together with rivets. It has been my experience that when you 
epoxy the handle together with the blade, rivets are not necessary if the 
handle wood is good and your tang fits good. The rivets do make it look 
nicer, though. Good luck.



From jjluis@best.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:35 EST 1996
Article: 44641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jesse Luis <jjluis@best.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ashlar Press Release
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 07:44:42 -0800
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14 Winners in I.D. Magazine=92s Annual Design Review Created with Ashlar
Vellum =


SAN JOSE, CA - Dec 16, 1996 -  Ashlar Incorporated today announced that
14 winning products in I.D. Magazine=92s 42nd Annual Design Review
(America=92s most prestigious international design awards program) were
created with Ashlar Vellum=AE 3D design and drafting software. Designers
used Vellum to create winning products in four categories: Consumer
Products, Equipment, Furniture, and Concept/Students categories.
  =

According to Chee Pearlman, editor of I.D. Magazine, =93The Annual Design=

Review covers all aspects of the world that are made more rational,
accessible, attractive, stylish, smart and marketable thanks to
design.=94  A distinguished panel of jurors selected 200 winners from ove=
r
2300 international entries.

Vellum 3D is a professional design and drafting software tool for
Windows 95/NT, Windows 3.1 Power Macintosh and Macintosh computers. =

Vellum=92s patented Drafting Assistant intelligence, which automates the
most common and complicated steps in drawing, has revolutionized design
productivity for mechanical engineers, industrial designers and other
precision-oriented designers.  Vellum offers a host of advanced design
and dimensioning tools, integrated parametrics, built-in plotter
support, multiple views, extensive file compatibility and more.

=93Ashlar heartily congratulates all of the winners in I.D. Magazine=92s
Design Review.  We are thankful for the tremendous opportunity to work
with leading innovators and designers in furthering the fields of
product design and packaging,=94 said Art Bruno, President and CEO of
Ashlar Incorporated.  =93Ashlar has always known that Vellum enables our
users to design rapidly and precisely while focusing on creativity and
innovation, rather than on the software.  We will continue to support
these talented designers by producing the best drafting and design
products in the industry.=94

The winning products listed below were created with Ashlar Vellum 3D:
Consumer Products:
Design Distinction  - Color StyleWriter 2200, Apple Computer, Inc.
Design Distinction  - Versa 2000 Notebook Computer, NEC Corporation
Design Distinction  - Zip, Jaz and Ditto Drives, Omega Corporation
Design Distinction  - Nuwood Skateboard, Santa Cruz Skateboards
Furniture:
Design Distinction  - Fruit Stalls, Sydney City Council
Design Distinction  - Soho Chair, Knoll Incorporated
Equipment:
Design Distinction  - Color LCD Monitor Series, EdgeWorks/Austin Video
Partners
Design Distinction  - Corel Video Conferencing Camera, Corel Corporation
Concepts:
Design Distinction  - IDEO Vision Project, IDEO Product Development
Design Distinction  - Philips Vision of the Future, Philips Electronics
N.V.
Design Distinction  - Biofeedback Snowboard, Studio North
Students:
Best of Category  - Doorhandle with Integrated Fingerprint Reader,
Periphery Peripheral Fax Machine, Gerd Schmieta from Cranbrook Academy
of Art, Bloomfield Hills, MI
Design Distinction  - Digital Inverted Microscope, Shu kun Chang,
Illinois Institute of Technology, Chicago, IL
Design Distinction  - Public Spectacle: Mediamatic Stage, John Seeley,
Cranbrook Acadamy of Art, Bloomfield Hills, MI

About Ashlar Incorporated
Ashlar Incorporated, founded in 1988, is headquartered in San Jose,
California.  Ashlar develops and markets products which automate and
simplify the design process from simple conceptual sketches to complex
designs.  Ashlar=92s technology has earned two U.S. patents and nine
industry awards for excellence.  The company=92s products are available
for IBM compatible PCs and Apple Macintosh computers.
-- =

Jesse Luis
Product Marketing Manager
Ashlar, Inc.
(408)487-9800 x1832


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:36 EST 1996
Article: 44642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:43 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B4E734.1D8E@vii.com>, Leonard Wojcik <lwojcik@vii.com>
writes:

>Nobody seems to mention the heat generated when the air is compressed. 
>Depending on what kind of pressures you are generating, this can be
>substantial.  Typically if you are also drawing air from the storage
>tank, it will not heat much, but the piping into the storage tank will
>get very hot (too hot to touch +)
>
>

Very true but the original poster was concerned about the motor getting
too hot. No question about the comprtessor or the line to the tank. *Very*
hot, mine has blackened the copper pipe with heat scale.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:38 EST 1996
Article: 44643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How much heat is safe for motor and compressor
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <592j19$h5g@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>,
rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>    Peter, I think I inadvertantly started this debate with my ill-
>considered comment that the compressor pulley might act as a fan and
>might have been reversed on it's shaft. After spinning a prop on a 
>shaft and looking at it, I see what you mean. Reversing the prop
>changes nothing. I should have thought it through....of course
>reversing the shaft direction - as in a CW to CCW rotation motor 
>used as a replacement motor - is still a possibility. My old compressor
>has large vanes on the pulley clearly designed for cooling.... 
>    Thanks for straightening me out on this.
> 

I think you are being a little hard on yourself here Roger, not
ill-considered just a little hasty. I had to make a propellor with a
twisted piece of paper to be sure before I responded. It didn't sound
right but I wasn't sure until the paper proved it.

The CW versus CCW is very much a possibility though. I am not sure but I
suspect a compressor would work in either direction as they pump on every
stroke much the way a two stroke motorcycle engine can run backwards if
the timing is advanced too far.

I had a 400cc Yamaha trail bike that would do that at the drop of a hat.
If you rtried to ride up over a log and faltered at the top and dropped
back the motor would be running backwards. Really exciting when you made
the next attempt at the log. The next attempt ususally began with much
more throttle than the last.

Actually, thinking about it, it is unlikely the compressor motor would run
backwards as it is more likely to be a single direction motor rather than
reversable.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:39 EST 1996
Article: 44644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC wars
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:36 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <19961215214700.QAA14172@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
billg63475@aol.com writes:

>This is not a high volume business and if you dont price your product
>accordingly it is hard to stay in business for very long if you want to
>contine to support and update your products.
>
>

You are of course correct here Bill, but Dan Mauch is also showing that it
can be done. There is no point having the best hardware or software in the
businesss if you have to price it high to stay in business. Intuit,
Borland Symantec and many many others have proven that low cost quality
software leads very quickly to high volume.

Back in about 1985 (I think) I interviewed Ben Rosen who was at that time
head of Symantec and had just released their Q&A database which later
became Paradox. This was in the midst of the stupid copy protection
paranoia where companies were tacking hundreds of dollars onto their
products for all manner of protection schemes.

Symantec's approach was to suggets that people take a copy and if they
liked it go buy it. The did and they did in droves. It was a good product
and it was 1/5th the price of dBase. Sold a bunch, still in buiness
although they sold it off to Borland for more figures than you can write
in a single line.

Borland have always had the same approach to low cost but quality
software. They finally bought dBase at a bargain basement price because
Ashton Tate could not figure out what Borland were doing to enable them to
sell so many copies of Paradox. Ashton Tate suffered the same fate as the
dinasours. (sp?)

There are millions of milling machines out there and most would stand a
good chance of being CNC fitted but not when it costs $10K+ to do it. I am
still mazed that people can charge $200+ for a 72 volt 10 amp power supply
that uses a $2.00 bridge a $48.00 transformer, an $11.00 cap, a $4.00
switch, a small piece of circuit board and some bent metal as a case.

Don't get me started on the "other" company's prices again, I had a 5,000+
*word* diatribe of invective and slander to wade through last time someone
tried/failed to justify the prices.

More power to Dan Mauch for his approach. I am waiting patiently for a 10
amp version of his controller having had my order cancelled by that
"other" company. That's their right of course, no-one has to sell to
anyone they don't want to , but it is a little short-sighted as I see it.

Peter



From pyroware@flash.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:40 EST 1996
Article: 44645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Kurt Bjorn" <pyroware@flash.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Exotic Matl source of
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:21:25 -0600
Organization: PyroWare
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <01bbeb64.e015c280$a3c0c2d0@pyroware.flash.net>
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Try Robin Materials...

http://www.rmat.com/

I haven't ordered yet but they have some cool stuff!

-- 
Kurt Bjorn

> bfairey@wat.hookup.net (Brian Fairey) wrote in article
<32b42c06.1871460@nnrp.wat.hookup.net>...
> Some months ago someone posted a web page address of a company
> that supplies small quantities of "exotic"? materials ie titanium,2024
> alum etc I upgraded my system and lost my bookmarks.
> Does anyone have this web address.
> Brian,Ont,CAN
> 


From Rehutch@concentric.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:41 EST 1996
Article: 44646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ruth <Rehutch@concentric.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Posting
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 03:42:23 +0000
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Hello:
 
I would like to apologize for any inconvenience
my recent posting to your newsgroup might have caused.
Please be assured that it is not our intention to spread junk mail. 
Any posting was guided by the objective that our content was relevant to
your newsgroup.

I performed a newsgroup search under 'recycling' and 'metal', 'business'
and 'opportunity', then narrowed the posting to groups which had
articles that were relevant.

Carnegie Hill and Associates, Inc. is a reputable company and would like
to thank those who have gently informed us of any error.

Sincerely,

Ruth Hutchinson


From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:42 EST 1996
Article: 44647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 10:47:26 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <32B56F0E.54E7@hre.com>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com> <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com> <592jui$1gi@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
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Roger Loving wrote:
> 
> In <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com> jburnett@cline.com (John A. Burnett)
> writes:
> >
> >In article <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com>,
> >ANDY POPKY  <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> >>peter,peter,peter     >>stop your righteous god like statements
> >>
> >>what i posted was i no way spam>>i listed 6 machines that would
> >>most likely be of interest to members of the group.
> 
> >Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the
> line.
> >
> >John Burnett
> 
>     Just to keep the ball bouncing.. I thought Andy's post was o.k.
>   But then I thought Peter's comment was intended hunorous. So what do
> I know?
>                                                 Roger L.


ROGER YOU FOOL!

Don't you know that HUMOR IS VERBOTEN! on rcm?

COOLER 30 DAYS!

Jim "Shultz" Harvey
Stalag17@hre.com
http://hre.com




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:43 EST 1996
Article: 44648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 17:34:42 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32AE2F5F.61A3@erols.com>, Michael Hanz <AAFRadio@erols.com>
writes:

>But the comment is a good one, and I support it - every situation needs
some
>thought,
>and next time I suggest an idea to the NG I'll properly caveat all the
things
>one should
>NOT do with it.
>
>

Scuse me, didn't the original poster want to take air bubbles out of an
epoxy pot mix?

Peter
Amazed at the shifts and jumps in threads.


From chi@earthlink.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:44 EST 1996
Article: 44649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Curt Hagenlocher" <chi@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Newbie problem with 3-jaw chuck
Date: 16 Dec 1996 15:53:53 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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I've got a Sherline lathe and I'm having problems with the 3-jaw chuck.

Specifically, I don't seem to be able to hold anything (anymore).  No
matter how much I clean the surfaces and tighten the chuck, the
piece I'm working on almost invariably begins to slip into the headstock.
This is particularly a problem during facing.  It hasn't been a problem
while turning steel, but it has while turning brass.

I'm sure that the jaws are tight enough; I've left fairly deep grooves in
some 12L13 steel I was working on :-).

I don't think that this happened at first (although I was using smaller
pieces then), and it's worth pointing out that I once removed and put
back the jaws of the chuck, and lord knows what I screwed up.

Any suggestions?

--
Curt Hagenlocher
chi@earthlink.net


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:46 EST 1996
Article: 44650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: New welder coming
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:13:00 -0700
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To: Mark Winlund <packrat@proaxis.com>

Mark Winlund wrote:
> 
> For the group... since we were on the MIG vs stick subject, I might mention that our
> shop is about to receive a brand new Miller XMT 304 (?) mig pulse welder. Supposedly
> does everything but sing. The big advantage is supposed to be out-of position spray
> tranfer welding.  Does dc TIG, MIG, and stick all in one little box the size of a
> very small suitcase. The cart, feeder and cylinders dwarf it. I will give a report
> on it once I try it out.
> 
> Regards, Mark

Don't anticipate getting a welder but enjoy your reports...

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html




From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:47 EST 1996
Article: 44651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Nice newsgroup
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 10:58:05 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <32B5718D.6106@hre.com>
References: <billn-1612960332000001@sylvester.dnc.net>
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Bill Neely wrote:
> 
> I really like the friedly, helpful tone of this newsgroup.  I'm planning
> (hoping) ;^) to add a mill and lathe to my shop in the near future.  I've
> learned more in just a week or two of reading your postings than I have in
> the last year of researching this stuff.  Thanks, Bill Neely, Lebanon, Or.


Dear Bill:

Ignore all posts from Andy Popky and buy all your stuff from me!

Jim " Stab in the Back " Harvey
friendly@hre.com
http://hre.com

Oops! I forgot the smileys!

:^)
:^)
;^) <----- This one is winking.....get it?




From hard.soft@mail.telepac.pt Tue Dec 17 14:30:48 EST 1996
Article: 44652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: hard.soft@mail.telepac.pt (Hard & Soft)
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Subject: Re: Gay White Male NEEDS SEX!!!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:31:48 GMT
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"Alastair W. Cook" <awcook@achilles.net> wrote:

>Davoman wrote:
>> 
>> I am a gay white male who desparately needs Cybersex!
>> I have hit all the adult rooms, but it's still enough
>> Please Someone in here E-Mail Me with your deepest Fantasys
>> To the rest of you who think I don't belong in here
>> FUCK OFF ASSHOLES!!!

>It might surprise you to know that the people who are here chating are
>interested in the art of BREWING and to look for any help they might
>need.
>Why you would think anyone cares about you sexual problems is beyond me.
>Unless you have something constructive to say about brewing, I suggest
>you take yourself and you profanities elsewhere.
 >go home!



From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:49 EST 1996
Article: 44653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!interpath!news.interpath.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-fw-22.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-pull.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!cbgw3.lucent.com!nntphub.cb.lucent.com!ssbunews.ih.lucent.com!not-for-mail
From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Pin Vise
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:48:09 GMT
Organization: Lucent Technologies -- Bell Labs Innovations
Lines: 28
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Reply-To: casherwood@lucent.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com

Hi everyone.

I spent some time this weekend building the Pin Vise from the Nov/Dec
Live Steam. This Pin Vise uses Dremel Tool collets. I changed mine by
turning the shank to 1/4 inch so that I could hold it in a milling
collet on my Sherline mill. Im not too happy with the end results.

As initially built, I had two problems. One is the sometime things would
not "seat" right and the runout would be REAL bad. Second, even after
seating things, I could not get the runout less than 2-3 thos on a 1/8 inch
center drill.  (This is without removing the pin vise from the lathe after
turning it) I expected better because my dremel tool does better.... 

One thing that I noticed is that my Dremel Tool has a stepped hole. 
The rear of the hole is smaller in diameter than the beginning. This
holds and centers the rear of the collet.  I turned a piece of brass
and pushed it down into the hole. This helps the seating problem a lot,
but I still have too much runout. The author said to drill the hole. He
used only three steps. I drilled the hole using a lot of steps. Im
wondering if the hole needs to be bored, to insure that its true. 

Any comments?


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From drum@iol.ie Tue Dec 17 14:30:50 EST 1996
Article: 44654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Ted Singleton" <drum@iol.ie>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bronze Polishing & Finishing
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:17:37 GMT
Organization: Dell Computer Corporation
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I wish to build a table in Bronze. I have all the necessary equipment to
machine the bronze such as Lathe and Milling machine. I need advise on how
to polish the finished items. Is Bronze left to Tarnish or is Lacquered
similar to Brass. I would appreciate any help.
Ted (drum@iol.ie)


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:51 EST 1996
Article: 44655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale (Groan)
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:28 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <592jui$1gi@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>,
rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving) writes:

>    Just to keep the ball bouncing.. I thought Andy's post was o.k.
>  But then I thought Peter's comment was intended hunorous. So what do
>I know? 
> 

I can tell you what *you* know Robert. You were the only one that got it
right. I have already e-mailed Andy to that effect. Of course it was an
acceptable informative email. Damn some of you *other* guys just take life
waaaaaayy tooo seriously.

About three days back Andy responded to a guy's question about whether it
was ok to advertise a lathe here. In the response he mentioned spamming
and how it would be ok to advertise his lathe.                            
      

Ok, Andy, I *am* fully grown, not a den mother just a poor old fart with a
sense of humour still intact, unlike some! <phhht>

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:53 EST 1996
Article: 44656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:26 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 26
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In article <32b4c4b4.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>>MSC sale price is $249.55
>
>>Ron Norris
>
>Well, I can probably make one for no more than twice that.  
><G>
>
>

Shouldn't be too hard I would think. Use a toolmaker's clamp to hold a
block on the blade that in turn holds a dial indicator. Us another
toolmakers clamp an inch or two up the blade for the end of the dial
indicator to work on.

Calibrating the thing would be the next trick. If, as we are told the
blade stretch is the same for all blades then you would just need to
borrow one to compare the readings with both your make-up and the real
thing mounted on the blade at the same time. Or some nice person with the
real thing, could make the above suggested item and tell us what the dial
indicator indicated when it was correctly tensioned.

Peter



From jim@hre.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:55 EST 1996
Article: 44657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Jim Harvey <jim@hre.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie problem with 3-jaw chuck
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:30:20 -0500
Organization: Harvey Racing Engines
Lines: 39
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Curt Hagenlocher wrote:
> 
> I've got a Sherline lathe and I'm having problems with the 3-jaw chuck.
> 
> Specifically, I don't seem to be able to hold anything (anymore).  No
> matter how much I clean the surfaces and tighten the chuck, the
> piece I'm working on almost invariably begins to slip into the headstock.
> This is particularly a problem during facing.  It hasn't been a problem
> while turning steel, but it has while turning brass.
> 
> I'm sure that the jaws are tight enough; I've left fairly deep grooves in
> some 12L13 steel I was working on :-).
> 
> I don't think that this happened at first (although I was using smaller
> pieces then), and it's worth pointing out that I once removed and put
> back the jaws of the chuck, and lord knows what I screwed up.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> --
> Curt Hagenlocher
> chi@earthlink.net

Curt:

I have not encountered this problem before. Did you ever disassemble the 
chuck? ( to turn the jaws from outside to inside?) make sure you have 
jaw A, B, C in their proper locations.

If all else fails, return the chuck to SHERLINE and have them check it 
out. If there is a problem you are under warranty and the chuck will be 
replaced.

Please let me know how you make out.

Jim Harvey
jim@hre.com
http://hre.com



From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:56 EST 1996
Article: 44658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 11 Dec 1996 18:09:26 GMT
Organization: AT&T Network Wireless Systems Business Unit
Lines: 31
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <58mtcm$k20@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
References: <58a4u8$m43@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <Pine.SOL.3.91.961208203914.21647A-100000@centralplains.freenet.mb.ca> <32AC56AC.72BC@erols.com> <32AED468.1729@MAIL.CERN.CH>
Reply-To: casherwood@lucent.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: nwswc155.ih.lucent.com


>> If you're trying to minimize cost, don't forget the big vacuum pump
>> sitting in the garage...the family car.  You can pull a 20" vacuum from
>
>Please! Don't do this with a car equipped with a regulated catalythic
> converter. 
>After a few actions you probably have to replace the converter. 
>

I dont think you should do it at ALL !
First consider what you may be sucking into the engine. Will it burn?
Probably. What by products of combustion will be produced? Are they
poisonous? Do you want to send them into the air or breath them?

Also there are other things you can damage other than your catalytic
converter. The O2 sensor comes to mind. They are sensitive and I have
heard stories about O2 sensors being damaged by some gasket compounds,
like RTV, used on intake manafolds.  I believe these stories because if
you read the instruction on RTV they now say they are safe for these type
of applications.

Ok, I'm cautious. I believe in doing it right the first time and not
damaging something that costs so much more that the right tool.

chuck


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


From therbert@accesscomm.net Tue Dec 17 14:30:57 EST 1996
Article: 44659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!bluto.accesscomm.net!usenet
From: Tom Herbert <therbert@accesscomm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engines
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 17:07:40 -0600
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <32B5D63C.22AE@accesscomm.net>
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As far as I know, there is no ng that deals exclusively with steam
engines;  however, there is a mailing list--livesteamers@uwimona.edu.jm.
Many of the people that read this ng are subscribers, and it is a very
active list.  Just send a message that says "subscribe livesteamers" to
majordomo@uwimona.edu.jm, nothing in the subject header.

-- 
Tom Herbert
Houston Area Live Steamers
Katy, TX, USA


From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:58 EST 1996
Article: 44660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: I want to make myself a (some) fly cutters
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:21:34 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.1/32.230

Can anyone tell me what the appropriate angle from horiz. the body of
the cutter needs to be (assuming a standard carbide lathe cutting
tool)?

Thanks

Steve
stz@garlic.com



From psh@islandnet.com Tue Dec 17 14:30:59 EST 1996
Article: 44661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: psh@islandnet.com (Jens)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How do you PAINT your projects?
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:56:15 -0800
Organization: Island Net on Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <32b5e9a2.224810771@news.islandnet.com>
References: <5900ab$g8t@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <stagesmith-1512960150240001@cust106.max24.seattle.wa.ms.uu.net> <32b4842c.133301546@news.islandnet.com> <593g3c$eut@news1.saix.net>
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codeng@power.co.za wrote:

>psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:
>
>
>
>I used to spray all my stuff with a standard Craftsman siphon type air
>spray gun but I had a lot of problems spraying thick paint (needs to
>cut
>>but with the small can on the gun and the low volume nozzle on it, it
>>took forever to do. I can still kick myself for not having come up
>>with my air gun attachment sooner. Instead of maybe 15 hours of work I
>could have done the job in an hour or two.
>
>Jens 


>Sounds Great.  Please post more details, dimensions etc for  the
>"Dohickey on the end"

I hate to say it but I just made the dohickey sort of off hand - no
dimensions as such. Well not quite true I guess ... it has a thread on
one end that fits into the thread of my air gun but that would depend
on your setup. After that it is a small hole in the middle (let's say
1/8") and then drill a larger hole in towards the middle from the
other side (let's say 1/4"). Then, drill a tiny hole (lets'say 1/16")
>from  the side of the dohickey into the center of the dohickey so it
meets the drilled center hole exactly at the junction of the small and
large hole - more specifically it should not go into either center
hole but into the bottom face of the larger hole. When you blow air
through this contraption a vacuum is formed on the face of the larger
center hole which will suck the paint up.
Hope this makes at least some sense. (Alternatively look at any siphon
feed sandblast gun).

I sure hope that I haven't destroyed any grand illusions people have
of me by doing a lot of 'let's say' type work with a few 'oh, like
about so long's ' thrown in  :)

Oh, BTW, the dohickey is about 3/4 " long (or so)  and I have a short
piece of tiny pipe inserted and silver soldered into the paint feed
hole so the plastic hose just slides over this pipe.

>It is easier to cut off than to cut on.

No way ... ever hear of a welder - great for cutting on or undrilling
holes :)


Jens


From alshinn@sirius.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:00 EST 1996
Article: 44662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Making your own flux for hard soldering
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:42:46 -0800
Organization: Sirius Connections
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X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.1.7


> creativ@norfolk.infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
> 
> >ranson@infoave.net (Ray) wrote:
> 
> >>We start with Denatured Alchol about 4oz then add 2T of boric acid and
2T of 
> >>boraz. Put the liquid in a small glass bottle and loosely capit. Place in a 
> >>pan of water on the stove and heat to just below the boiling point.
Stur the 
> >>liquid until the alachol is completely saturated. When finished there
should 
> >>be some borax left in the bottom, if not you did'nt put enough in. So
put some 
> >>more in and heat again.
> 
> >>Next we make another flux with distiled water instead of alachol, using the 
> >>same process as above.
> 
> >>We then dip the entire piece in the flux, set on the solder block and
burn off 
> >>the alachol. Then only add a very small ammount of the water flux on
the join.
> 
> >>Ranson
> >>http://www.ro.com/av/gems
> 
> >Then again. Couldn't you just save yourself a ton of time by just
> >buying some "Handy Flux"?  At $10 a lb it goes a long way.
> >Whats the advantage your way?
> 
> >Jim Waggener


Jim:
Ranson is shareing a very nice jewelers technique with us. I don't believe
that the alcohol flux is even buyable, but it does a very nice job of
scale proofing  an item to be hard soldered. When I was making jewelry, we
used the alcohol stuff for coating the whole piece and then Battern's(sp)
self pickling flux in the joint. Clean up was a joy compared to that
without the coating.

-- 
Al Shinn  (Tinker)
alshinn@sirius.com
Experience the beginnings of microscopy - visit
http://sirius.com/~alshinn/


From todengine@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:01 EST 1996
Article: 44663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: todengine@aol.com (Tod Engine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Rust and other finishes
Date: 16 Dec 1996 16:46:52 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <19961216164600.LAA14625@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <32B4C42A.25A0@eosinc.com>
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Ever hear of a rust joint?  In old days if you wanted to put a collar on a
shaft, you could make a rust joint. Leave about an 1/8 inch space
clearance around shaft, then mix iron filings with sal ammoniac, and plae
in opening.  The iron will rust rapidly and the oxides will form a very
tight bond between the two parts.  One thing  I am not sure of is how do
you stop it from rusting, so you don'e eat through shaft in a few years.

Old,old, old technology.

Rick Rowlands


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:02 EST 1996
Article: 44664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:22:10 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <32B56922.4CAA@cyberhighway.net>
References: <58s9f6$9n3@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com> <32b33ead.0@mothra.westworld.com> <32B3AEE2.6C3D@silcom.com> <32b42a06.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> ......
> I'll have to rig up something to sharpen carbide, but that
> is on the list anyway.
> 
> Fitch

Heck-I just put a green wheel on the elcheeeeepo 6" grinder.  Worked!


-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html




From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:03 EST 1996
Article: 44665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: NEWBIE WELDER
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:12:02 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <32B566C2.747C@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32AE41FD.6A53@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> <58mt4c$e6c@server.eng.dsea.com> <32af9606.0@mothra.westworld.com> <58vsjr$m24@insosf1.netins.net> <32b4a7a9.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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To: frwillia@ptw.com

Fitch R. Williams wrote:
> ......ago.
> >>
> >>BTW you can use 6013 on AC only welders.  That was the rod I
> >>used a lot with my 225 amp AC Lincoln - al......
> >>Fitch
> >>
> >>in response to fitch,what you said about 6013 rod,it is not true,6013
> >rod can be used on d,c.+. Being certified in
> >s.m.a.w.,g.t.a.w.,g.m.a.w.,f.c.a.w.,o.a.w and pipe welding,i say to the
> >newbie,if you want to do it right,go to school it is money and time well
> >spent. Arnie
> ......
> Reading your statement that you can use 6013 on DC+ makes me
> wonder if you are perhaps misreading the sentence in the
> text above that reads "BTW you can use 6013 on AC only
> welders."  That sentence is correct.


That is how I read it...  I don't think Arnie understood what
Fitch meant to say.

.....
> I can't find in anything I wrote anyplace where I said that
> you can not use 6013 on DC welders.........
> Fitch

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html




From mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov Tue Dec 17 14:31:04 EST 1996
Article: 44666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 16 Dec 1996 16:51:03 GMT
Organization: ANL
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References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com> <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com>
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I wasn't especially annoyed at Andy's machines-for-sale post, although I
suppose it technically crossed the netiquette line.  Even archived it as a
reference point for used machine cost (at least from the dealer's POV).  

Of course I'd feel a lot different if he'd ended the post with "please
respond by email so i don't have to read this ng"...

John A. Burnett <jburnett@cline.com> wrote in article
<591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com>...
> 
> Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the line.
> 



From cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:06 EST 1996
Article: 44667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: SAE 10?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 20:39:01 GMT
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Attached is my FAQ entry about oils. My 9" SB lathe calls for SAE 10
oil, too - I use South Bend's spindle oil, CE1600.


[Changes from the first time I posted it are marked with change bars...]

This is certainly a frequently asked question!  The first answer is to
use whatever the manufacturer's manual suggests, presuming you have
a manual for your machine.

|Feed-screw threads, half nuts, back gears and similar are usually
|lubricated with a moderately heavy oil such as Vactra 2 or 3, or grease if
|protected from chips and swarf.  Some suggest a mixture of oil and STP
|oil treatment. (South Bend recommends the same oil as used on the ways.)

Beds and "ways" are often treated with special oils, called "way oils".
|ISO 68 (medium weight).  Examples:  Exxon Febis K 68, Shell
Tona T-68, Sun way lub 1180, Mobil Vactra No 2, Texaco Way lube 68,
|Gulf Gulfway 68, Chevron Vistac 68X.

Spindle bearings call for "spindle oil" such as Exxon Nutto H32, Shell
Tellus V32, BP HLP32, Castrol Hyspin AWS32, Mobil Velocite and Mobil
DTE 32 (in this case the 32 is the ISO VG32 spec, about the same as SAE
10-weight, and is what Myford recommends for their lathes).  ISO grade
|22 is also used (it's what South Bend recommends, for instance).

All three types are available from the better supply outfits,
such as MSC.  Remember that the money you spend on proper oils will
be a lot less than the cost of replacing the machine!

|That's a lot of names, but how do you choose? Probably the first
|thing to do is follow the manufacturer's recommendations, if you
|can find them. 

South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
their 9" and 10" lathes:  CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 Teflon grease.  These are
|available from South Bend, and the discussion and tables below
|should allow you to choose an equivalent oil available from an
|industrial supply house. The Teflon grease is available from
|Roy Dean Products in Dearborn, MI, as part number DE112.

|Failing a manufacturer's recommendation, the key issue, I believe, is
|the viscosity.  There are a number of ways of describing viscosity,
|most of them confusing. We will now take a small sidebar to try to
|remove some of the confusion:

Machinery's Handbook has a nice section that goes into the different
kinds of oil performance for lubrication and how viscosity changes
with temperature. But it's not really detailed enough to make
a practical choice.

Most people are familiar with the SAE viscosity scale, because most
people have bought oil for their cars. What isn't immediately apparent
is that there are two SAE scales, both in common use: one for crankcase
oils, and one for gear oils! There is an ISO scale (VG numbers) and there
is the Saybolt scale. Let's start with the Saybolt scale, which is
measured with something called the "Saybolt Universal Viscometer":

In said viscometer, the oil flows through a tupe 0.1765 cm in 
diameter, 1.225 cm long, under and average head of 7.36 cm, from
a vessel 2.975 cm diameter. The time in seconds required for 60 cc of
oil to flow through the tube is the viscosity in seconds Saybolt.
The specification is typically given at a particular temperature, 
such as 100 degF or 210 degF. (Something tells me that the numbers
in the description above were originally English units, not metric.)

With that description of Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS) in mind, 
let's look at the SAE scales. First, for the crankcase scale:

	SAE	SUS @ 100F	SUS @ 210 F
	5	92		38.5
	10	165		44
	20	340		54
	30	550		64
	40	850		77
	50	1200		93

In addition, "Mark's Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers",
Eighth Edition, lists the following for Crankcase Oils:

	SAE	SUS @ 210 F
	20	45 min - 58 max
	30	58 min - 70 max
	40	70 min - 85 max
	50	85 min - 110 max

But it goes on to show the following for gear and transmission oils:

	SAE	SUS at 210 F
	75	40 min
	90	49 min
	85	63 min
	90	74 min - 120 max
	140	120 min - 200 max
	350	200 min

So you can see that the viscosity at 210 F for SAE 80W gear oil is
about the same as SAE 20W crankcase oil.

Finally, there's the ISO VG scale. From perusing a number of Mobil
oil data sheets, it appears that the ISO VG value of an oil is 
|exactly its viscosity in centiStokes at 40 degC. Unfortunately,
|the relationship between cSt at 40 deg C and SUS at 100 degF is
|not a linear one. But you can find a fairly complete table
|of tradeoffs at http://www.bconnex.net/~noco/nocovisc.htm. 
|Here's an abbreviated version that relates cSt and SUS @ 100 degF:
|
|	cSt  SUS at 100 degrees F
|
|	 10  58.91
|	 15  77.39
|	 20  97.77
|	 25 119.3
|	 30 141.3
|	 35 163.7
|	 40 186.3
|	 45 209.1
|	 50 232.1
|	 55 255.2
|	 60 278.3
|	 65 301.4
|	 70 324.4
|	 75 347.6
|	 80 370.8
|	 85 393.9
|	 90 417.1
|	 95 440.3
|	100 463.5
|
|(Taken from ASTM Table 1, D2161-63T)
|
|Also, SUS at any temperature is SUS at 100F multiplied by
|1 + (t-100)0.000064
|
|ie 58.91 SUS at 100F is 58.91x(1.007)= 59.32 at 212 F
|
To pull this all together, let's look at some specific examples. 
Above, we mentioned the South Bend recommended oils. Not only does
SBL give part numbers, but they give viscosities in SUS at 100 degF:

Usage		SBL p/n		SUS @ 100 F	ISO VG 	SAE (crankcase)
|light spindle	CE1600		100		21	5
|medium machine	CE1602		150-240		30-55	10-20
|way lube	CE1603		250-500		57-100	20-30

|Thus, a good substitute for SBL CE1600 would be Mobil Velocite No. 10,
|which is an ISO VG 22 spindle oil. Mobil Vactra No. 2, ISO VG 68, is 
|probably a good substitute for SBL CE1603 - it matches the viscosity
|and is formulated as a way lube (has appropriate coolant separability 
|and corrosion resistance).

Now, multigrade motor lubricants are not recommended as machine oils.
This is for two reasons: 1. Motor oils have additive packages that are 
designed to avoid corrosion and condensation problems that are unique
to the heat cycle and high-temp operation of an engine, problems
that are not found in machine tools. 2. Modern motor oils have detergents
that keep the contaminants in suspension (so they can be removed by
the oil filter) - most machine tools do not have a filter system,
so the contaminants will be circulated around to the bearing surfaces
rather than falling out of suspension to the bottom of the gear case.

That being said, there are several people on the list who are 
very happy using Mobil 1 motor oil as spindle and countershaft 
lubricants. The 5W-30 oil is approximately the right viscosity for
|spindle bearings, and the 15W-50 is heavy enough for countershafts
and gearboxes. The final choice is up to you, of course. Machine
oils have their own special additive packages geared towards the
requirements of machining.

Now that you've made a decision about what oil to use, how do
you oil it? Most lubrication charts assume production use,
and give oiling intervals accordingly. I prefer to spend five 
minutes oiling the machine every time I use it, just to make sure
everything is wet and topped off.

A suggestion I've read is to oil lathe ways before using, to clean off
dust/grunge that may have accumulated since you last used it.  After
work is finished, wipe off but leave a film for rust prevention.

Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.


From bohigas@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:08 EST 1996
Article: 44668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: bohigas@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove
Date: 16 Dec 1996 20:48:21 GMT
Organization: AOL, http://www.aol.co.uk
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Dear Fine Metalworkers:
The more I read about your rather sophisticated wood stove,
the colder I am getting here, with only my warm water central
heating and a hot water bottle around me.

Perhaps, we should invest into an "Englander" after all. At the
moment it cost us here in "Good Old England" app. US$ 15/day
to keep our family house nice and cosy, when it get realy cold
here the heating cost will go up well over US$ 30 per day. So
it appears that heating with wood pellets is very economical .

Alberto reporting from "Good Old England".

PS:
And again thank you for those good US friends at RCM which
have suggested designs for the  perfect Wood Pellet, free
copies of this program can be obtained by contacting your
Father Christmas directly <LOL>.

.


From gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca Tue Dec 17 14:31:09 EST 1996
Article: 44669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gekeays@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca (Gloria Edith Keays)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: charcoal foundry metal
Date: 16 Dec 1996 19:44:32 GMT
Organization: The University of Calgary
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OK.  I have the book.  I have a good chunk of the foundry
material (the pail, tin, pipe etc.), and I am thinking about
actually doing it when I get back from X-mas holidays.  What I
want to know is...

What exactly is "pot metal", where do you get it, and (if
scrounging) how do you tell it is pot metal?

Also, if anybody in, around or near Calgary has done this, and
found a local supply of foundry sand so I don't have to make from
scratch, please let me know...

Thanks

rod (on his wife's account)



From after5studio@voyager.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:10 EST 1996
Article: 44670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Suzette Perry <after5studio@voyager.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mini taps and dies
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 12:14:21 -0500
Organization: Voyager Information Networks, Inc.
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <32B5835F.11DE@voyager.net>
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To: Ron <Ron@radior.medrmh.unimelb.edu.au>

Ron wrote:
> 
> I would like to make a set of mini tap and die (say .011" dia. like those
> diaplayed on Sherline Web Page). Could some kind soul please tell me what
> material should I use , and how to go about doing so ?
> Thanks in advance


Ron,

You'll want to use high carbon steel. You may want to consult some books
which may be listed in the FAQ on operations involved in this. If there
is nothing there, let me know and can give you some of the titles I
have. You will have to harden the steel after machining. 

Brian Perry


From koroluk-o@rmc.ca Tue Dec 17 14:31:11 EST 1996
Article: 44671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: koroluk-o@rmc.ca (Orest I Koroluk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.metallurgy
Subject: Re: Density of metals?
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:04:15 -0400
Organization: Royal Military College of Canada
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Xref: newz.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.misc:27535 rec.crafts.metalworking:44671 sci.engr.metallurgy:10014

In article <58n8p8$v8i@news-feed3.globalnet.co.uk>, patm@globalnet.co.uk
(Pat Missin) wrote:

> Can anyone out there tell me the approximate densities of the
> commonest alloys of aluminium, brass and stainless steel? Also the
> density of ABS plastic?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
>  -- Pat Missin
> 
> patm@globalnet.co.uk

Generic density for general use in lbs/ in. cu.-

Aluminium             0.098
Brass                          0.310
Steel                           0.283
ABS                            0.043

Stainless steel is similar to carbon steel as the higher chromium and
nickel contents tend to offset each other (in terms of density). A
slightly higher value can be used.

Sourced from the Machinery's Handbook 24th ed.

Orest

-- 
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                           Orest I. Koroluk
                   Technical Officer~Agent technique
     Royal Military College of Canada~College militaire royal du Canada      
     Department of Mechanical Engineering~Departement de genie mecanique 
       PO Box 17000 Stn Forces Kingston  Ontario  Canada  K7K 7B4
                                          __     __        
    Voice-(613) 541-6000 ext 6281        / /<^> / / NATIONAL   DEFENSE
    FAX-(613) 542-8612                  / /<__>/ /  DEFENCE    NATIONALE
    e-mail: koroluk-o@rmc.ca           /_/  / /_/


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:12 EST 1996
Article: 44672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:17:05 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32b4ba53.1452238@netnews.worldnet.att.net>,
rfeeley@worldnet.att.net (Roger Feeley) writes:

>  One of them (don't recall which)
>was mistakenly shot in the rear end and the rifle was lost. 

I wonder if these were immediate sequence actions?????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<VBG>

I can only imagine how it was lost!!!!!!!

Cecil in oK


From kevin@aquilagroup.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:13 EST 1996
Article: 44673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 17:21:11 -0600
From: kevin@aquilagroup.com
Subject: Re: What size diodes?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Sorry for slow reply. News server is STILL very broken,
still reading/posting via Deja News...yech! 

In article <32ae4f31.1767321@news.mindlink.net>,
  chris_delikatny@mindlink.bc.ca (Chris ) wrote:

> I have seen 300A 300V diodes for a cheap as $9 surplus in the past.
> What could you use for a suppressor? A capacitor across each diode?

Yes or MOVs from dead PC power supplys or surge arrestor strips etc. Gas disccharge 
arrestors & MOVs are $3-5 new and will soak up a lot of power if repitition rate is low 
(breaking off a stuck electrode fer instance) 

You could also place an arrestor across just the bridge input, and output...

Been looking for spec on Westinghouse diode Chris e-mailed me...No luck on 
anything Westinghouse. 

Worse yet, I found some diodes at local surplus place, 150A, 600V, $4/each.

Also found some coveted anode-to-stude diodes in similar package, and 
wouldnchaknowit they are Westinghouse R5030610FJZU which I can find NO info on.
Posted quiry to alt.engineering.electrical, but nothing so far.

HiPot tester says they have ~1200V Vrb, and they drop .92V @ 25A, @ ~30C...
Lets see, how'd that go....I= Io e**(VjkT/q) ??....Maybe Fitch can lend a 
hand if his voyage into physics of air compressors left any cells unscathed for
sensible EE type stuff. (adiabatic, adiabatic, adiabatic...I'll stop if you help!)

-Kevin in Albuquerque

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov Tue Dec 17 14:31:14 EST 1996
Article: 44674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Mike Henry" <mike_henry@qmgate.anl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DRO Shooting Star
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:12:51 GMT
Organization: ANL
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Interesting report and I'll be looking forward to hearing more as you
progress.

How much was the DRO?

Richard Hal Buxton <rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us> wrote in article
<E2HArz.2J28@pen.k12.va.us>...
> Hi.
> There was a question about this dro posted this week and I
> answered it because I have purchased the unit for the school
> where I teach.  It was suggested that I post how it is going to
> the group in general.  

<snip>


From basileus@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:15 EST 1996
Article: 44675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.erols.net!swrinde!news-relay.us.dell.com!jump.net!grunt.dejanews.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 17:31:17 -0600
From: basileus@hotmail.com
Subject: Tesla turbine/pump
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Message-ID: <850765675.9482@dejanews.com>
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To: teba@execpc.com
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I understand that TEBA (Tesla Engine Builders Association) recommends  peripheral disc rivets on 
the runners of Tesla turbines and pumps.  Is this innovation a contribution by later students of this 
technology or does it come from Tesla himself?  It was never clear from the scant literature I can
scour on the turbine.  To what extent is fluid flow between discs affected by the presence of the rivets?

On the inner wall of the housing facing the discs are what's been
described as grooves.  Can
someone
explain what these are for?  Are these grooves concentric circles?  Or do
they trace a continuous
spiral?
Would an end disc and a grooved housing wall resemble a spiral-groove
bearing.  The rotation of the
discs
or runners  would keep the narrow region between end disc and wall
pressurized.  This perhaps steadies
the runners, keep the discs from warping, keep them parallel?
        
Input on these issues would be appreciated.



ferd
basileus@hotmail.com
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:16 EST 1996
Article: 44676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:17:03 GMT
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In article <32B47353.5D7D@ix.netcom.com>, Mike Patrick
<MPat1111@ix.netcom.com> writes:

>
>As an aspiring home machinist, I kindly support the other side of this 
>one.  Many readers of this newsgroup are still "tooling up". 

I agree, sometimes I have to post some things for sale also.  Usually it
is due to raising my hand at an auction.  However if anyone saw my shop
and areas, tey would probably say that I am a dealer also.  There are not
enough of us on this group to waste time with bantering about postings of
for sale items.  I think that Andy was within the unwritten policies of
this group to only list a few items.

Most of you guys are in areas where equipment is abundant (old
manufacturing areas), Down here in Okla., we didn't become a state until
1906, in the later part of the industrial revolution, and we didn't
manufacture anything until the 50's when the oil started to decline.
Equipment and money are both in short supply here.  A 9 inch Logan with
some tooling sold last month for $2250, and not at auction.  An old  M
series BPT here will sell for $4000.  Believe me if I had a truck that
would make the trip, and a wad of cash, I would be traveling to Andy's and
Dave's.  

I thought the posts were in good taste and properly executed.  A lot more
interseting than Babewatch.com.!!!!!!!!!!!!

My opinion.

Cecil in oK


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:17 EST 1996
Article: 44677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: End Mill life
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:17:08 GMT
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In article <32b4d6df.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:

>
>I have gotten many good suggestions on replacements for the
>oil, but they all require adding water.  I hate to add the
>water.  Its probably just me.  I'm trying to get my mind
>around running stuff with water in it over my lathe ways but
>not succeeding very well.  The lathe and mill have to share
>a coolent system.

I have two coolmist magnetic units with the coolant from Wholesale Tool,
It was used on 2- 10 in dia insert type cutters cutting in a straddle
setup and each milling a 3/4 X 3/4 notch on cold rolled steel.  I was
making large Tee nuts.  The mister worked better than flood, and dkd not
rust the waaaaays.

Cecil in oK


From Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com Tue Dec 17 14:31:18 EST 1996
Article: 44678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Dave.Keith@Develcon.Com (Dave Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: TIG welding from dryer 220V outlet?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 20:10:27 GMT
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In article <5908cg$cfr@news2.snfc21.pacbell.net>, reckless@pacbell.net.REMOVE.TO.REPLY says...

<good comments edited,  but then you've likely already read them>

>You want to check that your dryer plug isn't a 30A feed, if it is I
>doubt you'll be able to get past 75-100A of welding current.  Fine for
>tubing but that 1/4 plate won't happen.

I have my ancient Marquette buzz box set up to plug into my 220v / 30A
dryer outlet.  The machine calls for a 40A circuit.  Its top setting
is 225A.  I testing the machine and ran 150A without popping my breaker.
Didn't try 175,  but my calculations suggest I'd blow the breaker.

Just my experience.

Dave



From shockey@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY Tue Dec 17 14:31:19 EST 1996
Article: 44679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: shockey@primenet.com.REMOVE.TO.REPLY (Jim Shockey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:51:02 -0700
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In article <32b8f472.13885461@news.sprynet.com> ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan) writes:
>From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
>Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
>Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:10:16 GMT

>On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:48:30 -0500, ANDY POPKY
><MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>>i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
>>it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!

>You may be just a sick as Jim Harvey ;-}

Whaddaya mean, sick? I was raised on raised on raised 
on that that stuff, and it didn't hurt hurt hurt me none. 


--jim	    <shockey@primenet.com>	Idaho, USA
"The punishment which the wise suffer who refuse
to take part in the government, is to live under
the government of worse men."
				--Plato


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:20 EST 1996
Article: 44680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How To Pull Vacuum?
Date: 12 Dec 1996 12:05:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <58kd2c$ea4@newsreader.wustl.edu>, jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu
(Jonathan M. Elson) writes:

>From your address, I think I live far enough away to be safe, but I'm
>worried for your neighbors.
>						Jon

Jon
Lighten up Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    The wind in OK dissipates it fast enough,
besides, Freon is too expensive to let any waste.  Just for vacuuming a
new system, it works great.

Cecil in OK   Who makes freon vacuum systems out of refrig compressors.


From regisg@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:22 EST 1996
Article: 44681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Regis Galbach <regisg@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: 17 Dec 1996 01:06:21 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <594rmd$b0a@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>
References: <32B47353.5D7D@ix.netcom.com> <19961216171600.MAA15107@ladder01.news.aol.com> <01bbeb92$67d9cc20$eb1f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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And here's another $.05 worth to keep those occasional, ads comming from 
paticipants.  I am also carrying out a 'one man' boycott of the Pensacola 
News Urinal....I mean Journal.  
tx,
Regis


"Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net> wrote:
>Well, I missed most of the contretemps over the posting for sale, but
>here's my $0.05 worth: I expected to see stuff for sale from time to time
>on the board. I personally enjoy reading it  and use the info for
>comparison shopping. Of the two machinery sales sites I know of on the WEB,
>both are aimed at the commercial end of the market. I am an ORG (old
>retired guy) and don't really need anything, but heck, it's entertaining
>for me to read, since I am carrying on a one-man boycott of the St. L.
>Post-Dispatch, I don't get acess to a lot of "for sale items". I am new to
>the group, and I gather that at least two valuable contributors are
>dealers, which I have no objection to. After all, like it or not, money
>makes the world go 'round. (Love comes second<G>.)
>
>Les Whitaker
>
>cbear81438@aol.com wrote in article
><19961216171600.MAA15107@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
>> In article <32B47353.5D7D@ix.netcom.com>, Mike Patrick
>> <MPat1111@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>> 
>> >
>> >As an aspiring home machinist, I kindly support the other side of this 
>> >one.  Many readers of this newsgroup are still "tooling up". 
>> 
>> I agree, sometimes I have to post some things for sale also.  Usually it
>> is due to raising my hand at an auction. 
>> 
>> I thought the posts were in good taste and properly executed.  A lot more
>> interseting than Babewatch.com.!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> 
>> My opinion.
>> 
>> Cecil in oK
>> 




From billn@dnc.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:23 EST 1996
Article: 44682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.erols.net!newspump.sol.net!mindspring!uunet!in3.uu.net!206.58.0.35!news.structured.net!sylvester.dnc.net!user
From: billn@dnc.net (Bill Neely)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Nice newsgroup
Date: 16 Dec 1996 11:29:47 GMT
Organization: Structured Network Systems, Inc.
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <billn-1612960332000001@sylvester.dnc.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sylvester.dnc.net

I really like the friedly, helpful tone of this newsgroup.  I'm planning
(hoping) ;^) to add a mill and lathe to my shop in the near future.  I've
learned more in just a week or two of reading your postings than I have in
the last year of researching this stuff.  Thanks, Bill Neely, Lebanon, Or.


From vantonova@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:24 EST 1996
Article: 44683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: vantonova@aol.com (VAntonova)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Could you recomend a good cleaning solvent
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:36:16 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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I am resoring a car and am in need of a good, cheap cleaning solvent for
engines, craburaetors, transmissions, etc. The stuff they sell in the
automotive stores is way too expencive: $15 a gallon, and I am looking at
20-30 gallons. Could you recomend something easy to obtain, strong and at
a more reasonable price. Thanks for your help.

Alex,


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:25 EST 1996
Article: 44684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: 15 Dec 1996 19:44:30 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
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One of the things I hated most was using Tap Magic when I was starting
out... I think that stuff rots your pipes. In the course of time  I reached
the time in grade where no one was demanding I use it, so I made up my own
mixture of sulphurated cutting oil and Kroil. (This is also an effective
bug-bomb for when your boss keeps hanging around, just crank up the lathe
and any ol' piece of hard stuff, you'll fog him out of your area in no time
;)

Les "Crusty Old Machinist" Whitaker

Chuck Sherwood <cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com> wrote in article
<58vudu$hio@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>...
> Mark Winlund  <packrat@proaxis.com> wrote:
> >I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are
used up,
> > the old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still
available
> 
> Is it that much better than the new stuff without it?? I use the new
stuff
> a lot and I think it works very well. I have been told that the old stuff
> is really foul if you get it hot while drilling or turning..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> --
> Chuck Sherwood
> casherwood@lucent.com
> 


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:26 EST 1996
Article: 44685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: 15 Dec 1996 19:30:28 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <01bbeabc$c9094600$f01f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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Sigh...
Les 'animal-powered lathe" Whitaker

Tony Midea <Tony.Midea@moa.net> wrote in article <32B3496F.661B@moa.net>...
> Paradox wrote:
> > 
> > Somehow... not quite sure how, I convinced my wife that owning a small
> > milling machine would reduce the amount of time I spend in front of my
> > 'puter... :) she bought it!
> > 
> > Soooo... guess what I'm getting for Christmas :))))))))
> > 
> > Yup... I brand spankin new Sherline Milling machine :) the 'Deluxe
> > Package' to be specific.
> > 
> > Thus my question:
> > 
> > I already have a Taig lathe and 'at least one of evertything' to go
> > with it (literally). How much of this will be useful on the milling
> > machine?
> > 
> > Are the drawbars/collets equivelent?
> > I know the spindle thread is the same
> > Is the Taig fly cutter usable on the Sherline?
> > 'T' bolts?
> > Boring head and bar?
> > 
> > Thanks muchly in advance for any advice you all can give me.
> > 
> > Steve
> > stz@garlic.com
> 
> 
> I need to know this guys secret..
> Tony
> :-)
> 


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:27 EST 1996
Article: 44686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!venus.sun.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!ns1.ccinet.net!news
From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: 15 Dec 1996 19:47:23 GMT
Organization: Consolidated Communications Incorporated
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <01bbeabf$251e0c80$f01f00cf@les.intecnet.net>
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X-Newsreader: Microsoft Internet News 4.70.1155

Victory over what, Andy? Waking up again? <G> (That stuff smells like an
body left in the hot sun after a mortician's first effort... ;)

Les "No Nose from Tap Magic" Whitaker

ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<32B3831E.25F7@ix.netcom.com>...
> Mark Winlund wrote:
> > 
> > I just found out from my local dealer that until existing stocks are
used up, the
> > old Tap Magic (the stuff with the evil trichlorethane) is still
available. Call your
> > local supplier, guys...
> > 
> > Regards, Mark
> 
> i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
> it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!
> 


From hoofe@intecnet.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:28 EST 1996
Article: 44687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Les Whitaker" <hoofe@intecnet.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Band Saw Advice Wanted
Date: 15 Dec 1996 20:04:02 GMT
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Joseph Baccellieri <jbacc@postoffice.worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<32B46E99.65DB@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>...
> pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > In article <58vte7$3ih@news.proaxis.com>, Mark Winlund
> > <packrat@proaxis.com> writes:
> > My, I AM gettin' old... only $249.95, and all those years I spent
"plunking" the blade with my thumb, like tuning a guitar... aint modern
science wunnerful?
Les "tensionally challenged" Whitaker
> 
> MSC has a Starrett "Saw Tension Gage" on sale for $249.55.
> As Peter said it is in the December sale flyer.
> 
> Joe.
> 


From jfneumayer@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:30 EST 1996
Article: 44688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: jfneumayer@aol.com (Jfneumayer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tools to have
Date: 16 Dec 1996 12:04:25 GMT
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Keven,

I am not familiar with the Grizzley machinery numbers.
Is that a lathe or a mill?

If it's a mill the best accessory you can have is a
INDICOL.  This a trade name for an indicator holder
that is indispensable. Almost any metalworking mail order
house will have that or a imitation of the INDICOL.  I suggest
that you get the original, many of the knock-offs are poorly
made.  About $20.00 in most catalogs.

You can call a gentlemen named Ulo at Dubuque Industrial
Supply (319-556-5151) and he would ship one right out to
you.

Sincerely,


John Neumayer
Grimes, IA
jfneumayer@aol.com
jfneumayer@dmacc.cc.ia.us


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Dec 17 14:31:31 EST 1996
Article: 44689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Message-ID: <1996Dec16.031534.25836@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 16 Dec 96 03:15:33 MST
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In article <32b14019.1275005736@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox) writes:
..
|>Thus my question:
|>
|>I already have a Taig lathe and 'at least one of evertything' to go
|>with it (literally). How much of this will be useful on the milling
|>machine?
|> ...
|>I know the spindle thread is the same

Wrong, sort of.  From the FAQ:

    * It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16
    spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessed
    far enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, not
    enough to be usable.  However, one reader bored out the back of a
    Taig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports it
    threads on his Sherline quite well now.  So, be careful if purchasing
    a Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!

I don't know if this mod in turn makes the faceplate useless on a Taig.  So,
don't expect them to directly interchange.

Jim


From buffalo@eosinc.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:32 EST 1996
Article: 44690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: dennis j brown <buffalo@eosinc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Beginner Questions
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:37:03 -0600
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gds@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> I have recently purchased the 2hp mill/drill from Enco.  Is seems to
> be a pretty good machine for learning.  I have a few questions that
> continue to perplex me.
> 
> -  What is a good procedure for centering an 8" rotary table?
> 
> - How crucial is leveling the machine?  I have it on Enco's mill drill
> stand which I am certain must be unlevel.
> 
> Thanks for the help and any other comments on this machine would
> be helpful.

it depends on how true the center hole is to the rest of the turntable.I 
always use an indicator and pick up the center hole by revolving the
mill spindle and get a zero reading on all four quandrants.

							DENNIS


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:34 EST 1996
Article: 44691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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Subject: Re: small machines for sale (Groan)
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

> 
> I can tell you what *you* know Robert. You were the only one that got it
> right. I have already e-mailed Andy to that effect. Of course it was an
> acceptable informative email. Damn some of you *other* guys just take life
> waaaaaayy tooo seriously.
> 
> About three days back Andy responded to a guy's question about whether it
> was ok to advertise a lathe here. In the response he mentioned spamming
> and how it would be ok to advertise his lathe.
> 
> 
> Ok, Andy, I *am* fully grown, not a den mother just a poor old fart with a
> sense of humour still intact, unlike some! <phhht>
> 
> Peter

But Peter, this is one of the well known problems of people interacting
via email. All of the content in a face to face conversation that tells
you it's a joke is missing. This is why email should be clear and
without hidden meanings.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From gwanegau@netcomuk.co.uk Tue Dec 17 14:31:35 EST 1996
Article: 44692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: gwanegau@netcomuk.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pratt Burnerd Chuck
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:25:36 GMT
Organization: NETCOM Internet Ltd.
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On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:08:24 -0800, Pat Dworzan
<dukovurl@mail.idt.net> wrote:

>Would anyone have an address and phone number for Pratt Burnerd Chuck? If 
>so, please post or email. I need to find out if they make a 4"- 4 jaw 
>independent lathe chuck with plain back. Thanks. 
>PD
>

No address, but their phone number is +44 01422 366371




From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 14:31:36 EST 1996
Article: 44693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 13:24:26 GMT
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Don Holly (dholly@psl.wisc.edu) wrote:
: "David A. Holly" <dholly@erols.com> wrote:

: > I read, in Beeman's Airgun Digest, that
: >some of the old bellows type air rifles were powerful enough to hunt elk
: >with.  I think that a modern version of a bellows gun, with the bellows 

: What's a bellows type air rifle? 

: While I know people used to make air rifles which were used in
: hunting, I thought they were still very low-powered compared to
: firearms. Not true?

Not *quite* true.

The highest power guns today are "precharged pneumatics"  using a 
copressed air resevoir, as were the highest power guns of previous
centuries. The Austrian snipers that Napolean threatened to hang as 
assassins used such guns. Today's guns can put out 20-30ft/lbs of
energy, and there are a few capable of 100 ft/lbs.

That's low  in centerfire terms, but high in rimfire or black powder 
terms. 

The bellows guns weren't high powered. The modern equivalent would be
the more effiencient spring piston guns, some of which can produce
30 ft/lbs of muzzle energy. They'd make a good project for a skilled
machinist, particularly if you substituted (as does Theoben of England) a
compressed gas cylinder for the metal spring.

--mike



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:38 EST 1996
Article: 44694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old black magic still available
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:24:06 -0500
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Les Whitaker wrote:
> 
> Victory over what, Andy? Waking up again? <G> (That stuff smells like an
> body left in the hot sun after a mortician's first effort... ;)
> 
> Les "No Nose from Tap Magic" Whitaker
> 
> ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article

> > i love the smell of TAP MAGIC in the morning
> > it smells like VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!!
> >

i guess you never saw APOCOLYPSE NOW


From mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu Tue Dec 17 14:31:39 EST 1996
Article: 44695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 13:26:50 GMT
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Georgie Stanford (maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us) wrote:
: Roger Loving (rogerlov@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: :     Airguns fascinate me too! I do not know anything about the bellows
: : type, I always thought that the more powerful airguns used a higher
: : pressure contained in a pressure reservoir. I do have a wierd
: : quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
: : supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with ether.
: : When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether is
: : injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
: : ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22 cal.
: :     Ever seen one of these?  
: :                                 Roger L.

: A word of warning. I used to work with ether when I was a lab technician 
: for an experimental neurologist (he used it to painlessly kill lab rats). 
: Ether is both toxic and explosive and an 8 ounce can will blow up an 
: entire room if ignited by sparks, open flames, hot wires or SHAKING (!).
: In a closed space just a tiny amount can snuff you by suffocation.

The HW "Barakuda" gun used small glass ampules of ether which were crushed
*inside* the auxiliary cyliner. Pretty safe. The HW "Barakuda" pellet,
sold also as a Beeman under a different name, was developed to handle
the high energy of this gun.

--mike


From paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com Tue Dec 17 14:31:40 EST 1996
Article: 44696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: paul@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 09:31:51 -0500
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In article <591gk8$7s4@municipal.maf.mobile.al.us> maf00048@maf.mobile.al.us (Georgie Stanford) writes:
>A word of warning. I used to work with ether when I was a lab technician 
>for an experimental neurologist (he used it to painlessly kill lab rats). 
>Ether is both toxic and explosive and an 8 ounce can will blow up an 
>entire room if ignited by sparks, open flames, hot wires or SHAKING (!).
>In a closed space just a tiny amount can snuff you by suffocation.
>
>
>No flame please, just my opinion.
>
>Georgie
>

Waaay  back in my organic chem lab days, an ether fire was a fine and
dandy way to ruin your day.  Dang things could travel 8 or 10 feet
in a blink and the flames were invisible.  Ether's used a lot in
extractions and you _don't_ use open flames.  You boil it with a
heat lamp.  Still, it has a very low flash point and if you got
a piece of metal too hot ...

Just another reason I went into computers :-)

I don't ever  recall a problem with shaking it though.

There is a vague reference tickling around the grey cells about really
old ether forming unstable compounds that might be subject to shock.  I
seem to recall something about not using the stuff in the bottom of the
can.



-- 
Paul Amaranth          Tel: (810) 656-5975      Fax: (810) 656-6836
Aurora Group, Inc.     Rochester MI, USA    http://www.rust.net/auroragroup
paul@AuroraGrp.Com          Consulting & Data Conversion Services



From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Tue Dec 17 14:31:41 EST 1996
Article: 44697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: machining ceramics
Date: 16 Dec 1996 14:01:49 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
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References: <19961213002500.TAA20839@ladder01.news.aol.com> <58sd4p$ig1@crcnis3.unl.edu> <32B4B6D1.41C67EA6@sweng.stortek.com>
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Steve Hardy (hardy@sweng.stortek.com) wrote:
: michael jensen wrote:
: > 
: > VAntonova (vantonova@aol.com) wrote:
: > : For a high-power tube radio transmitter I need to machine some material
: > : with very high electrical resistance, minimum heat resistance and that can
: > : withstand temperatures up to 600-1000 degrees F.
: > 
: >      Try Macor a machinable glass ceramic.  You can purchase macor out
: > of the McMaster-Carr catalog.  The big plus to Macor is that it can be
: > machined with High Speed or Carbide tool.  It is also possible to hold
: > a very very tight tolerance +/- .0001 inches depending on the
: > acccuracy of your machine tools.  The negatives to macor are, it
: > brittle and doesn't have a very high tensile strength. If you use it
: > in a high stress application it will fail.
: > 
: >      Good Luck
: > 
: >      Mike J.

: Yes, Macor.  Only $3000 per Kg from Crown Scientific in Australia.
: Does McMaster-Carr have it for a more down-to-earth price and if
: so how can I contact them?

: After all, this stuff is basically mica in a borosilicate glass
: matrix.  I would have expected the price to be about as much as
: brass, but nooooo - it just _had_ to be totally unafordable.
: It is used on the space shuttle.  Anything which goes into space
: seems to attract a 10000% 'Pentagon' premium.

: Regards,
: SJH
: Canberra, Australia

     If you want high performance you have to pay the price. Generally
material cost are the least of your worrys, but with macor you pay 
a little more for the materials.  For protype work it is much cheap 
and far more accurate to spend the money and buy the right material. 
Even if it cost more then coventional materials, in the long run it is 
cheaper because it is done right the first time.

     Mike J.
--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:42 EST 1996
Article: 44698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 14:02:13 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> <58ugra$qp6@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32B4DB6E.1AD@silcom.com>
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In <32B4DB6E.1AD@silcom.com> Elliot Burke <elliot@silcom.com> writes: 
>
>>  I do have a wierd
>> quasi-airgun I bought from a German company years ago. It has a
>> supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is filled with
ether.
>> When you want more power, you push a lever and a small dose of ether
is
>> injected into the air chamber. The piston coming forward ignites the
>> ether (think diesel) and roughly doubles the pellet velocity....22
cal.
>
>>                                 Roger L.
>I bet some other gas would work as well.  How about some butane and a
>piezo electric igniter?  
>
>Elliot Burke
>HighTide Instruments
>elliot@hitide.com
    
    I think that one of the advantages of ether is that it is a liquid
at std. temp. and pressure. Butane might have it's own advantages
though....Now you've got me wondering about an air "machine gun" with
a "turbo" mode! I don't know why airguns facinate me so much; they
aren't very powerful compared to powder. I did see a shotgun made for
the bird hunters in the Phillipines. It was a pump-up type of about 
410 caliber. Single shot of course, and you loaded it with whatever
you had to fit a paper shot holder. Made for economy, not very pretty.
                                                    Roger L.


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:43 EST 1996
Article: 44699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 14:28:35 GMT
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References: <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> <58ugra$qp6@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <591gk8$7s4@municipal.maf.mobile.al.us> <593mgn$avi@tiger.AuroraGrp.Com>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Dec 16  6:28:35 AM PST 1996


    Thanks for the warning about ether. Yes, it is obviously a hazard
if not treated cautiously. The airgun I mentioned doesn't hold very
much, I think less than 10 drops of liquid is the fluid capacity. This
seems to give enough gas for 25 to 35 enhanced shots. The holding and 
injection cylinder is typical German well-over-built type. All in all,
I don't worry about it. I bought the gun some years ago just out of
curiosity. In fact, I wrote the company and asked if they had some
laying around still for sale, since they made them in the early 1950's.
Surprisingly, they still had a few and shipped me one "on approval"!!
    Haven't fired it in years now. I used diesel starting ether for the
ether source. Heeding your warning, I think I will throw out my old can
of starting ether....I haven't even moved the can in 15 years and now I
am a little leery of that can. You did mention unstable compounds in
the bottom of the can.... thanks, it's not worth the risk.
                                                             Roger L.
    


From carlisle@mail.north.island.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:45 EST 1996
Article: 44700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.mindspring.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!199.60.19.15!news.island.net!slip23
From: carlisle@mail.north.island.net (Steve & Gale Carlisle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: A few thoughts on WELDING
Date: 17 Dec 1996 01:14:18 GMT
Organization: Island Internet Customer
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <594s5a$q8j@cliff.island.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip23.north.island.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3

        I have found it interesting to have read all the thoughts and advice being
passed on to persons needing advice on the subject of WELDING. In my opinion, new-
comers to home shop welding will find that SMAW (stick) welding process would be a
good starting point, due to it's versatility. This process allows the newcomer to
produce acceptable welds in the flat position. Expierence gained from this process
in regards to weld quality, will provide the user the needed confidence to move on
to GMAW (mig), with it's associated tighter operating parameters.

        I also noted that new user's are under the impression that GMAW is a process
that generally produces less than satisfactory welds, compared to SMAW. An expierie-
nced weldor can produce CODE QUALITY welds in all the welding processes, and in all
positions, flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead. This skill level comes with
continued welding expierence. A new welding machine phurchaser should try to get the
 most value from his new machine. I guess it matters quite a bit on what they will be
welding in regards to this phurchase. In my opinion if one were to buy a 300 amp, dc,
cv/cc machine he would be able to weld SMAW and GMAW together with a wire feeder. If
one has a large amount of cash, a modern multipupose inverter would be the way to go.

        The welding machines that I use regular basis are a LINCOLN SAM-400, Gas Driven
DC, CV/CC unit together with a MILLER wire feeder, running 1/16" and 5/64" Flux Core
wires. I also use this unit with an adapter to run a LINCOLN MAGNUM spool gun running
aluminum. This Spool also runs on my LINCOLN WireMatic 255 that I use in my shop. It
has been my expierence in dealing with welding supply shops, is that thier inside sales
people have very limited knowledge when it comes to demonstrating machines and consum-
ables ( rod and wire ). The best help one is likely to get will be from one of these
company's road sales-person-s that make scheduled calls on repair and fabrication shops.
Most of these people have been certified weldors themselves and can give out valuable
advice.

        Having been involved in HD-MECHANICAL repair and WELDING (Government certified
in both trades) for the last 25 years, I would be glad to pass on opinions or advice
to persons on these related topics.


                                        Thanks very much for your time. Steve.


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:46 EST 1996
Article: 44701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!worldnet.att.net!ix.netcom.com!news
From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Airguns anyone?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 14:39:22 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <593muq$2ua@dfw-ixnews6.ix.netcom.com>
References: <32961AE6.376A@amug.org> <19961123194700.OAA00467@ladder01.news.aol.com> <57atbf$hb2@beetle.privatei.com> <01bbe90b$155625e0$00ad02a7@HOLLYD.astramerck.com> <58ugra$qp6@dfw-ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> <32B4DB6E.1AD@silcom.com> <593iqg$9f@cwis-20.wayne.edu>
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X-NETCOM-Date: Mon Dec 16  8:39:22 AM CST 1996

In <593iqg$9f@cwis-20.wayne.edu> mje@bob.pass.wayne.edu (Michael
Edelman) writes: 
>
>Elliot Burke (elliot@silcom.com) wrote:
    (Roger Loving wrote)
>: >  I do have a wierd quasi-airgun I bought from a German company
years ago. It has a supplimental cylinder next to the receiver which is
filled with ether.<<<
        (Michael Edelman replies)
>The problem is getting the right mixture. The Barakuda rifle used the 
>ether to augment the spring power; the gun was basically spring
powered,>the ether only adding a small percentage of power when it
ignited from>the heat generated by the piston compressing the ether/air
mix.
>
>--mike<<<

    Yes, the power only goes up fractionally. Testing for penetration
and listening to time to impact - both very seat of pants - tell me
that the velocity is somewhere around 50% greater. By selecting a
heavier pellet (round ball) with the ether shots accuracy doesn't
suffer too much. Yes, it is basically a common spring-piston gun with
the add-on chamber. 
    In fact, what I had ment to say when we started this thread was
that the ether add-on looks to be a very simple device. A nice project
for the machine hobbiest who doesn't mind doing some calculations to
assure himself that his gun will handle the increased pressure.
                                                        Roger L.


From bbeizer@gnn.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:48 EST 1996
Article: 44702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!news.sgi.com!howland.erols.net!news-e2a.gnn.com!pop.gnn.com!bbeizer
From: bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wood on a Metal Lathe: Warning
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:25:18
Organization: Analysis
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <593luf$ig0@news-e2b.gnn.com>
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X-GNN-NewsServer-Posting-Date: 16 Dec 1996 14:22:07 GMT
X-Mailer: GNNmessenger 1.3

Just thought I'd post a warning here on woodworking on a metal 
lathe.  Some of the exotic tropical hardwoods are toxic.  I believe
that Paduque and Purple Heart are toxic.  If you're going to work
these woods (on wood or metal lathes) wear a mask.  Best to check
toxicity first with some woodworking experts. 

Boris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
TEL:  215-572-5580
FAX:  215-886-0144
Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From abrasha@abrasha.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:50 EST 1996
Article: 44703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!news-peer.sprintlink.net!howland.erols.net!nntp.crl.com!news.c2.net!jupiter.dnai.com!news
From: Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:46:05 -0800
Organization: DNAI ( Direct Network Access )
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <32B4476D.18B0@abrasha.com>
References: <felice.373.32B3A1CC@pioneer.net>
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Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter wrote:
> 
> Sorry if this is old news, but I just ran across this site of photos of and by
> Fred Colvin of machine tools and shops and stuff.
> 
> http://www.cwru.edu/CWRU/MC/ColvinSerlll.html


Looking up this URL results in 

File Not Found!

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:51 EST 1996
Article: 44704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DRO Shooting Star
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 07:56:12 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <32B5630C.36AF@cyberhighway.net>
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To: Richard Hal Buxton <rbuxton@pen.k12.va.us>

Richard Hal Buxton wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> There was a question about this dro posted this week and I
> answered it because I have purchased the unit for the school
> where I teach.  It was suggested that I post how it is going to
> the group in general.  .......
........If there is any interest, I will follow this up at the
> end of the week.

Yay!!!  To me this is the sort of thing this NG should be about.
My DRO is a $12 indicator but I like to hear about others...

> Rick
> P.S.  My provider does not have a text editor or spell check
> for EMail so please overlook typeos!

Neither does mine.  Guess I could type with WordPerfect and 
transmit that file.  GLad to hear you have a shope class.
Where is it?

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html



From randyr@ibm.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:52 EST 1996
Article: 44705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: randyr@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Dry Welding Rods
Date: 12 Dec 1996 15:48:48 GMT
Lines: 53
Message-ID: <58p9h0$1ins$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net>
References: <19961210012700.UAA29864@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com> <58lg64$1p4u$1@news-s01.ca.us.ibm.net> <32af8f44.0@mothra.westworld.com>
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In <32af8f44.0@mothra.westworld.com>, frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams) writes:
>randyr@ibm.net wrote:
>
>>In <32ACC038.5D1@ix.netcom.com>, Tom <thomas8@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>>>rnorris583@aol.com wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> How do you keep your welding rods dry?
>>>> 
>>>> Looking for inexpensive homebuilt unit that I can make.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks
>>>> 
>>>> Ron Norris
>>>they sell plastic 10lb containers with o rings for sealing
>
>>If you only have a few (10lbs or less) Northern sells the plastic sealed 
>>containers for under $10.	
>
>>For larger collection, I used an army surplus ammo can (the tall 50 caliber kind)
>>and put pvc tubes in it. This divides the rod types up and seals shut. This tall
>>ammo can is just long enough for welding rods. Check army/navy store.
>>Holds about 50lbs of rods.
>>Randy Ray
>>randyr@ibm.net
>
>I've seen surplus ammo and other holders in the catalogs and
>wondered if they were just bigenough or just to small.
>Would you be able to post the outside dimensions of this
>box?  I've seen some 20mm ones that looked about the right
>size.  The catalogs all use outside dimensions I think.  But
>I don't know for sure.  I have thought this would work
>really well for most of the 60xx and some of the 70xx
>serises, but not 7018, but didn't want to order one and find
>out it was "just" to small.
>
>Fitch
>
>Fitch
>

These "cans" that I have are the same footprint as the old standard .50 cal. cans
you see quite often, but taller. The dimensions are 5 1/4" across, 11 1/8" deep,
and 16 1/4" tall. They held "8-60mm cartridges". I bought them from a army/navy
store when I lived in NC (near Ft. Bragg). I have gotten them for as low as $5 and
seen them as high as $20. Make a nice rod holder. Just set it up on the bench
on it's side, drop the lid down, and you have a  multi-rod dispensor.

Randy Ray
IBM / ISSC
Smart Home Architect
Utilities Industry
randyr@ibm.net



From pal@fc.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:53 EST 1996
Article: 44706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!newspump.sol.net!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.io.com!news.fc.net!usenet
From: pal@fc.net (Phil Langefeld)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Fair price for Atlas shaper?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:20:05 GMT
Organization: Freeside Communications, Inc
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <5940c5$3vb@villa.fc.net>
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In article <19961210163000.LAA20312@ladder01.news.aol.com>, plalbrecht@aol.com 
says...
>
>I just called Clausing. They have parts lists for the shapers (not that
>anything is still available, mind you) but say they were shipped without
>user manuals. Does anybody have any other manufacturer's documentation for
>these critters? An accessory list/catalog would be nice too; they must
>have had some goodies to go with it. Seems to me they must have had a user
>manual of some sort. 

I have an AAMCO 7" shaper that I got last summer for less than some of the 
prices suggested here, but it was part of a package deal from a family friend. 
 I have a parts list, accessory list, and what they might have called a 
manual, but I'm not sure that it's any better than what Clausing offers.  The 
total package is 30 pp., but only 4 pp represents any sort of instruction.

Phil Langefeld



From leonardmb@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:54 EST 1996
Article: 44707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: leonardmb@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drilling a Tapered Hole?
Date: 17 Dec 1996 00:29:20 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <5910hs$h34@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, KHJC64B@prodigy.com
(Robert Lorenz) writes:
> I am sure that some of the real machinists could 
>help him out.

Sure, I thought it was obvious.  This job clearly requires a 5-axis CNC
machining center.      :-)

                                 - Marc



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:55 EST 1996
Article: 44708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!hunter.premier.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!portc02.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pellet adapter for wood stove
Date: 16 Dec 1996 15:10:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <19961216151000.KAA12382@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <32b4458a.2232042@news.ptd.net>, bikerbil@postoffice.ptd.net
(Bill) writes:

>Would a Stat like the one in my living room work ?
>I would think not, I would imagine I would want to read temps INSIDE
>the stove as  not have too long a reaction time and let the fire burn
>out.
>
>

Yup you are right, goes to show what shooting from the lip can cause. :)>

If not reading inside then at least the outside surface but I wonder if
you are getting too exotic here. I would imagine after the fire settled
down a bit a simple timer and a speed controller might do the trick.

Ok, so now I am giving the reply a little more thought. See if you can
find an interval timer and adjust the speed of the feed motor to dump a
small load in every three minutes or so. Adjust the speed of the motor but
leave the intervals the same. Go watch a fire running and take a stop
watch with you.

I have just tried the Electronic Goldmine and All Electronicsd but they
don't have the timers. I have seen them somehwere recently for about a
five minute cycle. Maybe Surplus Center or C&H. Check the FAQ for those.

Peter



From ppierce@cyberhighway.net Tue Dec 17 14:31:57 EST 1996
Article: 44709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!mr.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.cyberhighway.net!not-for-mail
From: Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:05:35 -0700
Organization: CyberHighway Internet Services
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <32B5653F.240@cyberhighway.net>
References: <32B31432.5BEE@ix.netcom.com> <19961215173400.MAA06582@ladder01.news.aol.com> <32B44E66.2E28@ix.netcom.com> <591mj1$rs5@kirin.wwa.com> <592jui$1gi@sjx-ixn10.ix.netcom.com>
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To: Roger Loving <rogerlov@ix.netcom.com>

Roger Loving wrote:
> .....
> >>peter,peter,peter     >>stop your righteous god like statements
> >>
> >>what i posted was i no way spam>>i listed 6 machines that would
> >>most likely be of interest to members of the group.
> 
> >Sorry Andy, gotta agree with Peter on this one, you're crossing the
> line.
> >
> >John Burnett
> 
>     Just to keep the ball bouncing.. I thought Andy's post was o.k.
>   But then I thought Peter's comment was intended hunorous. So what do
> I know?
>                                                 Roger L.

I'll go with Roger...  An occassional ad is great.  Our resident machine
dealers (Scott, Jim, Mark, Andy, et.al.) make this a vibrant, viable,
interesting, NG.

-- 
Paul in AJ AZ  NRA Endowment Member

Checkout the Metal Web News at:
new address (11/23/96)

http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

Checkout the FAQ at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/%7Emetal/index.html


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:58 EST 1996
Article: 44710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com (TeamHail)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is a good thin homemade cutting fluid
Date: 16 Dec 1996 22:17:59 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Frome The Machinist's Bedside Reader, pg 177, 47pt boiled water, 3pt
borax, 3pt soluble oil, 1pt tri-sodium phosphate.  The parts should be
mixed in the order listed.  Haven't tried it, anyone out there using it?

Paul


From cbear81438@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:31:59 EST 1996
Article: 44711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!news_server.cs.unc.edu!news-server.ncren.net!nntp-xfer.ncsu.edu!gatech!csulb.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!enews.sgi.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!howland.erols.net!news-peer.gsl.net!news.gsl.net!portc01.blue.aol.com!audrey01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: cbear81438@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Old tap magic still available
Date: 16 Dec 1996 17:30:50 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <19961216173000.MAA15411@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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In article <01bbeabe$bde4e0c0$f01f00cf@les.intecnet.net>, "Les Whitaker"
<hoofe@intecnet.net> writes:

> sulphurated cutting oil and Kroil.

I did not know it was still available.  I have an old can lying around.

Cecil in OK


From mcarlson@unibase.Unibase.COM Tue Dec 17 14:32:00 EST 1996
Article: 44712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcarlson@unibase.Unibase.COM (Milt Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ready made spacers?
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:07:51 GMT
Organization: Unibase Telecom Ltd.
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jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:

>pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:
>: In article <19961213033800.WAA27378@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
>: lwc1220@aol.com writes:

>: Thanks Wayne, I have resolved the problem by bolting the spacers to a
>: faceplate and machining in sets of four. However I had started thinking
>: about a flexible coupling. I am investigating something along the lines
>: you have deescribed but using a hefty compression spring instead of hose.

>: The spring I am trying is very very stiff but it flexes longitutudinaly
>: reasonably easily. I am hoping this will give me a fixed rotational drive
>: but allow for misalignment.

>The standard shaft coupling for precision leadscrew drive is a solid block
>of metal, often aluminum, which is bored through for the shaft diameter.
>Then, the center section is cut in a way that allows the necessary flexing
>while retaining rotational stiffness.  One favored way is to cut a helical
>slot that runs for at least five turns all the way to the center bore.
>You can look in Stock Drive Products, W.M. Berg or other catalogs and see
>excellent pictures of these, probably in smaller sizes than you need.
>Another design uses alternating straight cuts that leave enough material
>for strength.  This would be easy to make with a jeweler's saw in the
>mill.  The helical cut is a little trickier, but I think it could be done
>with a thin abrasive cutting wheel in a tool-post grinder on the lathe,
>or free hand on a bandsaw.
>I'm afraid your spring might not be stiff enough, and getting it aligned
>properly when attaching to the shaft collets is going to be tricky.
>Keep us posted on how it goes.
>						Jon

How would a u-joint work. Not with bearings but like the old style
with a round flat belting material between two yokes that are offset
ninety degrees. Don't  use a belt but a springy thin steel disk.

Milt



From mcarlson@unibase.Unibase.COM Tue Dec 17 14:32:02 EST 1996
Article: 44713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: mcarlson@unibase.Unibase.COM (Milt Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: BUY AMERICAM PEROID
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 01:36:37 GMT
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psh@islandnet.com (Jens) wrote:

>hook@usit.net wrote:

>>heres the anwser, the salesman DONT have to run this imported SHIT!!
>>any day of the week i would buy a 20 year old bridgeport, index, cinn,
>>ect. over a brand new chinese junk machine, chrome  hardend  ways and
>>all. you see 6 months from now or sooner some plastic gear is going to
>>come flying out and down you go. BUY AMERICAN i know i have been
>>forced to run this SHIT. BUY AMERICAN !!!

>Groan ....
>Jens
Or TOS (Polish) or Swiss if you have the money.



From KHJC64B@prodigy.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:03 EST 1996
Article: 44714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: KHJC64B@prodigy.com (Robert Lorenz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: DRO Shooting Star
Date: 17 Dec 1996 13:05:22 GMT
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Thanks for the report, I would like to hear how the next axis goes on and 
how well the DRO is working once you have it all assembled.  Again, thank 
you for taking the time to answer my question and to give us all a report.
   
-
  ROBERT LORENZ  KHJC64B@prodigy.com




From rmm20@eng.amdahl.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:05 EST 1996
Article: 44715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
Subject: Re: I want to make myself a (some) fly cutters
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In <32b57694.1215795133@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox) writes:
>Can anyone tell me what the appropriate angle from horiz. the body of
>the cutter needs to be (assuming a standard carbide lathe cutting
>tool)?
>
>Thanks
>
>Steve
>stz@garlic.com
>

Forgive the presumption, but if you are asking about angles, you will probably
be happier with HSS for fly cutting.  By definition, this is an interrupted 
cut, and you may get chipping with carbide.


 - Robert Mitchell - rmm20@eng.amdahl.com
                     robert@mithril.cupertino.ca.us




From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:06 EST 1996
Article: 44716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: toolposts
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:32 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <alshinn-1512962001290001@ppp097-sf2.sirius.com>,
alshinn@sirius.com (Alan Shinn) writes:

>tool post so I will be pretty easy to please. The real question is ---How
>poor is the piston type relative to the gib type (with which I have had
>good experiences in the past) ??
> Also, anyone out there with a catalogue price that's better? 
>Comments will be much appreciated.!
>
>

MSC is offering the Phase II, piston type for $174 complete with 5 or 6
accessories. Andy Popkey has used Aloris in stock but he said the knurling
tool was missing from the set. He said they were in excellent condition
but I am not sure if it was gib or piston.

The piston types I have used seemed to work just fine for me but Jens
makes a good point about pulling in rather than pushing out. However, as I
have said, they worked for me, just fine.

I *believe* Santa has been faxing MSC but there have been some pointed
questions asked about all manner of shop items. May just be general
interest on Mrs Claus' part but I hope not.

Peter
Still believing in fairies and Santa providing I get what I want.


From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:07 EST 1996
Article: 44717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Duty cycle?
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:45 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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In article <32B483E5.1A03@ismi.net>, Don <dhunt@ismi.net> writes:

>While looking at various models I got to wondering about duty cycles. 
>The Century I looked at had a chart showing duty cycle (I think it was
>about 20% at max amperage and higher at lower amp settings.)  The
>Lincoln 225c which I was leaning toward, due to its smaller more
>portable size, lists a 10% duty cycle at max amps... 20% at 175 amps and
>lower.  
>
>My question then is, wouldn't running at lower amperage be cooler and
>therefore yield a higher duty cycle on the Lincoln as well as the
>Century?  If so, why do they list it at 20% at 175 A and lower?  If not,
>is the Lincoln "more lightly built".  Would I be better off with the
>Century?
>
>

At the risk of a flame war I might suggest the miller *could be* rated in
"Sears" duty and the Lincoln is not. I have a Lincoln 100 MIG and I have
never had it pop the overload.

Peter



From pnpnolan@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:08 EST 1996
Article: 44718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: pnpnolan@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Nice newsgroup
Date: 16 Dec 1996 18:31:49 GMT
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In article <billn-1612960332000001@sylvester.dnc.net>, billn@dnc.net (Bill
Neely) writes:

>I really like the friedly, helpful tone of this newsgroup.  I'm planning
>(hoping) ;^) to add a mill and lathe to my shop in the near future.  I've
>learned more in just a week or two of reading your postings than I have
in
>the last year of researching this stuff.  Thanks, Bill Neely, Lebanon,
Or.
>
>

Sometimes it gets a little warm here but hang in there with us, it is
*always* informative. Welcome to the group and be good and maybe Santa
will drop a mill by the house.

Peter



From felice@pioneer.net Tue Dec 17 14:32:10 EST 1996
Article: 44719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: felice@pioneer.net (Felice Luftschein & Nicholas Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: I am soooooooooo excited!
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 18:09:49 GMT
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>Wrong, sort of.  From the FAQ:

>    * It has been reported that although the Taig and Sherline use a 3/4-16
>    spindle thread, the threads on Taig chucks and faceplates are recessed
>    far enough that a Sherline lathe will only grab about 1.5 threads, not
>    enough to be usable.  However, one reader bored out the back of a
>    Taig faceplate to 1 inch diameter for about 1/4 inch depth, and reports it
>    threads on his Sherline quite well now.  So, be careful if purchasing
>    a Taig accessory for use on a Sherline lathe!

>I don't know if this mod in turn makes the faceplate useless on a Taig.  So,
>don't expect them to directly interchange.
This may be the case, and at first it worried me, but I haven't had any 
problems with the lack of thread engagement. It is an easy enough matter to 
turn down the Taig accessories though. The recess doesn't seem to be used for 
alignment on the Taig anyway, so you could probably thread the Taig spindle to 
the shoulder, for interchangeability with the sherline. I haven't done this 
though and until an endmill holder flies off into my face at 2000 rpm, I 
won't... 


From steve_smith@cc.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:11 EST 1996
Article: 44720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
> 
> OK guys lets get this straight some people actualy think that MIG is
> weaker than stick.
> You have got to be kidding. The only reason this would apply is if someone
> knew nothing about MIG welding.
>                             Ernie Leimkuhler

What we said was that you can get a great looking weld in MIG that isn't
very strong if you don't know what you are doing.

Now check out what the original topic was: NEWBIE WELDER.

'Nuff said.

-- 
Steven O. Smith
steve@cc.com


From rogerlov@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:12 EST 1996
Article: 44721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: rogerlov@ix.netcom.com(Roger Loving)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG vs. Stick ( was NEWBIE WELDER )
Date: 17 Dec 1996 02:18:23 GMT
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In <32B59388.44F2@cc.com> "Steven O. Smith" <steve_smith@cc.com>
writes: 
>Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
>> OK guys lets get this straight some people actualy think that MIG is
>> weaker than stick.
>> You have got to be kidding. The only reason this would apply is if
someone
>> knew nothing about MIG welding.
>>                             Ernie Leimkuhler
>
>What we said was that you can get a great looking weld in MIG that
isn't very strong if you don't know what you are doing.
>>Now check out what the original topic was: NEWBIE WELDER.
>>'Nuff said.
>>Steven O. Smith
>
        The first time I welded with MIG the joint fell apart when I
took off the C-clamps! I looked at it, practiced for a while  and all
was well from then on. BTW, CO2 is a cheap shielding gas, but a
beginner would be better off with MIG mix.
                                                Roger L.


From Riflewoman@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 17 14:32:14 EST 1996
Article: 44722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Ashley Palmer <Riflewoman@worldnet.att.net@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Could you recomend a good cleaning solvent
Date: 17 Dec 1996 02:26:29 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Rather than a solvent, I recommend some of the "soaps and detergents" now 
sold as "degreasers".  they're water based and much less toxic and 
noxious.  As far as cleaning capability, they have to be seen to be 
appreciated.   Otherwise you can buy stoddard solvent in 5 and 55 gal 
drums from your local oil distributor.




From therbert@accesscomm.net Tue Dec 17 14:32:15 EST 1996
Article: 44723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Tom Herbert <therbert@accesscomm.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pratt Burnerd Chuck
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 17:12:12 -0600
Organization: Access Communications, Inc. ( Houston, TX ) 
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Pratt Burnerd has a USA office that stocks parts-etc-
their tel # is (616)384-2225, ask for Leslie-she's very helpful.
-- 
Tom Herbert
Product Support Specialist
Virtual Shopping, Incorporated


From dukovurl@mail.idt.net Tue Dec 17 14:32:16 EST 1996
Article: 44724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Pat Dworzan <dukovurl@mail.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Pratt Burnerd Chuck
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 18:27:00 -0800
Organization: IDT 
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gwanegau@netcomuk.co.uk wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 14 Dec 1996 23:08:24 -0800, Pat Dworzan
> <dukovurl@mail.idt.net> wrote:
> 
> >Would anyone have an address and phone number for Pratt Burnerd Chuck? If
> >so, please post or email. I need to find out if they make a 4"- 4 jaw
> >independent lathe chuck with plain back. Thanks.
> >PD
> >
> 
> No address, but their phone number is +44 01422 366371


Thanks. Thomas Register turned up a Pratt Burnerd America in Kalamazoo, 
Michigan; tel (616) 384-2225. It'll be interesting to see if they have a 
common product line. PD



From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:17 EST 1996
Article: 44725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: toolpost is sold!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 21:20:35 -0500
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pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

 Andy Popkey has used Aloris in stock but he said the knurling
> tool was missing from the set. He said they were in excellent condition
> but I am not sure if it was gib or piston.
> 

first off it is spelled POPKY
the toolpost in question was a wedge type
and yes it was in excellent condition
ask SCOTT LOGAN and he can tell you all about it<w>
and the knurling tool is not missing
it found its way to CHICAGO


regards
andy(canned meat)popky


From frwillia@ptw.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:18 EST 1996
Article: 44726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: frwillia@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boring on Sherline Lathe
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 03:32:50 GMT
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Fitch wrote:
>> I'll have to rig up something to sharpen carbide, but that
>> is on the list anyway.

Paul Pierce <ppierce@cyberhighway.net> wrote:
>Heck-I just put a green wheel on the elcheeeeepo 6" grinder.  Worked!

Thanks for the input on the green wheel.  I've seen them,
never used one.  And I definately have an El cheapo 6"
grinder.  At least I got that part right anyway!

Been thinking about buying a second one.  That would give me
a place for a green wheel and a buffing wheel both.  Do
green wheels come in grades, like corse and fine?

Fitch






From fdmorrison@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:20 EST 1996
Article: 44727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: fdmorrison@aol.com (Fdmorrison)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: colvin photos website!
Date: 16 Dec 1996 19:41:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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To get this URL the last portion is "ColvinSerIII.html" wherein you are
typing capital letter "I's" (the letter in the alphabet between h and j;
not the two other symbols it looks like) , or use "ColvinFinding.html"
which is not so far into the site.
This is part of a posting to alert folks to the collection of Colvin
materials at Case Western Reserve University.  The photos aren't all that
great, but are only intended as pointers or samples of what they have
there.
Thanks for the site, I have added it to my bookmarks.
                   
                                           Frank Morrison



From Paradox@Enigma.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:21 EST 1996
Article: 44728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: Paradox@Enigma.com (Paradox)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wood on a Metal Lathe: Warning
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 22:58:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Key-rect Boris...
I also wear long sleeve shirts and tight fitting surgical gloves
(really) as I get a nasty skin reaction from this stuff.
Cocobola as well
I have a list of wood toxicity if anyone is interested
(from rec.woodworking)

Steve
stz@garlic.com

On Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:25:18, bbeizer@gnn.com (Boris Beizer) wrote:

>Just thought I'd post a warning here on woodworking on a metal 
>lathe.  Some of the exotic tropical hardwoods are toxic.  I believe
>that Paduque and Purple Heart are toxic.  If you're going to work
>these woods (on wood or metal lathes) wear a mask.  Best to check
>toxicity first with some woodworking experts. 
>
>Boris
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Boris Beizer, PhD                                 Consulting and Seminars on
>1232 Glenbrook Road                          Software Testing and
>Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006              Quality Assurance
>TEL:  215-572-5580
>FAX:  215-886-0144
>Email: bbeizer@gnn.com
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>



From katier6886@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:22 EST 1996
Article: 44729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: katier6886@aol.com (KatieR6886)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thickness??
Date: 17 Dec 1996 02:17:56 GMT
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Would anybody know the thickness in inches of the various gauges of sheet
metal (ie. 18, 20, 22, 24......) or know where I could find the
information???


From MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:23 EST 1996
Article: 44730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ANDY POPKY <MACHTOOL@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: small machines for sale
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 18:03:39 -0500
Organization: www.marshallmachinery.com
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Dave Ficken wrote:
> 
> In <32B4B2B8.4C8E@sprintmail.com> John L Ferrell
> <johnferrell@sprintmail.com> writes:
> >
> >ANDY POPKY wrote:
> >
> >> i listed 6 machines that would
> >> most likely be of interest to members of the group.
> >> either they might be looking for a small hobby type machine, or as a
> >> price comparison to what they have.
> >
> >Keep the info coming! Eventually I am going to find the right mill for
> my hobbies,
> >probably a 700 pound Asian work in progress if something better does
> no come along.
> >
> >John Ferrell in Julian NC
> 
> Does this mean that I am free to post stuff for sale too?
> I have been biting my tongue since I joined the news group for fear of
> breaching Netiquette.
> 

no can't post machines only i can
just kidding
sure you can post all you want just ignore 
anything that the den mother says


From teamhail@aol.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:24 EST 1996
Article: 44731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: teamhail@aol.com (TeamHail)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Carbide bit holders
Date: 17 Dec 1996 00:50:17 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Anyone out there made indexible carbide bit holders for their lathes?  I
just ordered some surplus carbide inserts from J&L, they were $.50 ea,
couldn't resist, but I don't have a toolholder for them.  I don't want to
pay $40-60.  Enco has some for $16, and some on sale for $7, but there not
for the size inserts I ordered.

Thanks,

Paul


From ssl@loganact.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:25 EST 1996
Article: 44732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: ssl@loganact.com (Scott Logan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: toolposts
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 02:28:32 GMT
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On 16 Dec 1996 18:31:32 GMT, pnpnolan@aol.com wrote:

>accessories. Andy Popkey has used Aloris in stock but he said the knurling
>tool was missing from the set. He said they were in excellent condition
>but I am not sure if it was gib or piston.

It _WAS_ the gib type.  It's on my 12" Logan now.  And it was in like
new condition.


  +----------------------------------+
  | Scott Logan  -  ssl@loganact.com |
  |        Logan Actuator Co.        |
  |     http://www.loganact.com      |
  |    Repair Parts & Accessories    |
  |    for Logan and Wards Lathes    |
  +----------------------------------+

FAQ - http://plains.uwyo.edu/%7Emetal/index.html
Metal Web News - http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray

        "Measure Twice, Cut Once"


From casherwood@lucent.com Tue Dec 17 14:32:27 EST 1996
Article: 44733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
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From: cas@marconi.ih.lucent.com (Chuck Sherwood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Newbie problem with 3-jaw chuck
Date: 16 Dec 1996 19:48:30 GMT
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Message-ID: <59492e$40a@ssbunews.ih.lucent.com>
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>> 
>> I've got a Sherline lathe and I'm having problems with the 3-jaw chuck.
>> Specifically, I don't seem to be able to hold anything (anymore).  No
>> matter how much I clean the surfaces and tighten the chuck, the
>> piece I'm working on almost invariably begins to slip into the headstock.
>> This is particularly a problem during facing.  It hasn't been a problem

If you are gripping things to the point of denting them, your chuck
sound plenty tight. Let me ask an obvious question. Are your tools sharp??
Which technique are you using for facing? A left hand tool fed from the
outside in works the best for me.  You can use a RH tool starting at the
middle and working your way out, but I have had this push the piece in,
particularly if the tool is not sharp or set correctly.
My 2 cents worth.


-- 
--
Chuck Sherwood
casherwood@lucent.com


