Subject: Silver solder removing

From: [email-masked] (Phil OKunewick)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:55:45 GMT

Oh hey!  A new newsgroup!  Can I be the first poster?

   Here's a little trick: To remove silver solder when you can't
produce enough heat (or when heating the object too high will cause
problems), add regular tin-lead or lead-free solder to the bond.  The
tin-lead solder will alloy with the silver solder and the melting
temperature of the entire mass will be much lower than that of silver
solder alone.

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Berilla)
Date: 23 Dec 1992 15:57:32 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Morgan Hall) writes:

|> Does anyone know of a source for niobium?  I've heard that you can anodize
|> it in an alkaline solution and get some interesting surface colors.

You can anodise titanium and get interesting colors.  With a lead cathode and
dilute sulfuric acid electrolyte, the colors go from yellow to gold to blue to
purple to light transparent blue as the anodising time increases.

The surface is sensitive to oils.  On a purple surface, it's easy to get
gold fingerprints just by touching the surface.

-- 
      Jim Berilla / [email-masked] / +1 216 368 6776

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Berilla)
Date: 23 Dec 1992 15:57:32 GMT

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Berilla)
Date: 23 Dec 1992 15:57:32 GMT

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From: [email-masked] (John De Armond)
Date: 23 Dec 92 23:14:34 GMT

[email-masked] (Michael A. Shaffer) writes:

>Great tip. Since I have a SS expert on the line, is it possible to
>SS a new sight mount onto a shotgun barrel without ruining the finish
>(and thus requiring a rebluing job)?

No.  

Sorry for the short answer but real silver soldering, as opposed to silver
bearing soft solder, requires dull red heat and the flux very
agressively removes surface contaminations.  Blueing goes bye-bye.

John

-- 
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