Subject: Caring for Katanas

From: [email-masked] (Edward M. Averett)
Date: 23 Jul 1993 15:07:19 GMT

I seem to have this clove oil that a friend gave me, saying, "It's good 
for looking after blades, but I don't know how".  Anyone out there who 
knows about this? 

Also, I own a katana (circa WWII officer's sword, mass produced by hand),
and a wakisashi (circa 1840-1850), both of which look like they could use
some care. ...

Now don't scream. . .but my grandfather found the katana in a trash pile
in rural NC about 25 years ago, and for several years used it as a corn
knife (cuts ACRES of corn like nuthin' you ever seen! "unquote"), until
I got old enough to know what it was and say, "Please stop".  It's got 
some discolorations and stains, and a nick or two . .. .ouch. ..but 
other than that and needing to be rewrapped, it seems to be ok. ..

I would love advice on the actual care and feeding of my swords.  I 
know about not touching blades with skin/human oils, but that's about 
it, except for some mumbles about silk cloth and several other possibly
apocryphal things. . . .

			[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Jerold A. Shelby)
Date: 23 Jul 93 17:15:31

In article <[email-masked]> [email-masked] (Edward M. Averett) writes:

Lightly dust the blade with finely powdered limstone dust and wipe gently along
the length of the blade. This removes old oil and some stains.  Apply your 
clove oil to the blade and don't touch it with you skin.

The WWII sword is one of about 300,000 brought home by GIs.  The Japanese gov.
requires that all WWII swords found in Japan be destroyed. It's main value is
as a WWII item and not as an art sword.  Then wakisashi (short sword between
1 and 2 feet long) may be of some intrest to collectors, depending on the marks
on the tang and the quality of the hamon(wavey line near the edge).  There are
one or two pins in the hilt that hold the sword and hilt together.  If you
can push these out, you will be able to inspect the tang for markings. One
warning, do not attempt to clean the tang.  Be careful of the hilt, WWII 
army officer swords were covered in shark leather before being wrapped.
I would like to know the color of the cord at the end of the hilt.  This 
would tell the rank of the officer to whom it was issued.  

Common story.....

Use cotton or linen cloth between you an the blade.

What they may need is to be polished.  Polishing is a craft on par with 
bladesmithing in Japan and not something to be tried by the casual collector.
For more info you might see "The Craft of the Japanese Sword" or "The Samurai
Sword". I picked these up in a local 'discount book store - Bookstop'.

Jerry Shelby
[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 27 Jul 93 15:08:04 +0900

> for looking after blades, but I don't know how".  Anyone out there who 

It's not really that good, it just smells nice. :-)

As far as I know the Japanese historically used Clove oil because it was
very "clean" and they liked the smell. By "clean" I mean it leaves minimal
deposits (and thus stains) behind when it dries. This has always been (and 
still is) a major concern with the care of Japanese blades.

> and a wakisashi (circa 1840-1850), both of which look like they could use

Try contacting one of the MAJOR Japanese Sword clubs. They should be able to
give you some idea what is involved in getting blades polished (including
the $$$ damage. Getting the Wakisashi polished might be well worth concidering,
the WW2 Officers Pattern is much more doubtful.
(The only way to tell is to have the blades inspected.)

> know about not touching blades with skin/human oils, but that's about 

It's the salts in your sweat/skinoil that do the damage (Rust)
So not touching the blade with bare flesh is a very good habit to form.

> it, except for some mumbles about silk cloth and several other possibly

Ignore the "Mythical Mumbo Jumbo"(Tm) the "real" subject is facinating enough.

Strip off all the furniture (Handles, Guards, etc.)

Clean the blades with hot soapy water (dishwashing detergent will do) using
an old tooth brush to scrub them with. Dry thoroughly. Cover with any brand
of gun oil (preferably one without any "funny" additives or "perfumes". A
couple of days later put some more oil on (in moderation - you don't want it
"dripping") put them back in their scabbards (assuming they've got them) and
store them horizontally with the cutting edge up.
(Horizontally stops the oil pooling in in the end of the scabbard, cutting
edge up because any tendency for the blade to rust due to moisture in the
wood of the scabbard will do much less damage to the wide "back" of the blade
than to the fine "edge")

Change the oil every three to six months. Or as often as you want to. :-)
(And add a few drops of the Clove oil to the gun oil if you like the smell.)
> 			[email-masked]

Alex Cruickshank
Stats Office
Curtin University of technology
PERTH    Western Australia