Subject: cutting up a saw blade

From: [email-masked] (john miller)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1993 16:46:08 GMT

I have an old handsaw that I have been saving for use as
stock for scrapers and perhaps some home made carving 
tools.  It just ocurred to me that I haven't the foggiest
idea how to cut the saw into pieces of usable size.
Any good ideas would be greatly appreciated.  Also any
suggestions of what other tools could be made.

John

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From: [email-masked] (John Kopf, X6305)
Date: 9 Aug 93 17:53:19 GMT

According to an old "Roy Underhill" program, simply score a groove where you 
want the blade cut, then put the blade in the vise with the score mark even
with the jaws and bend the saw back and forth until it snaps off.  I think he
used a broken hack-saw blade's tooth to score the metal.

I'VE NEVER TRIED THIS MYSELF, HOWEVER.  (I'd try it firt on the very end of
the saw, or on one of the corners insidethe handle so the rest of the saw isn't
wasted if it doesn't work.)

JK

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From: [email-masked] (Dion Hollenbeck)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1993 22:10:58 GMT

>>>>> On Mon, 9 Aug 1993 16:46:08 GMT, [email-masked] (john miller) said:

John> I have an old handsaw that I have been saving for use as
John> stock for scrapers and perhaps some home made carving 
John> tools.  It just ocurred to me that I haven't the foggiest
John> idea how to cut the saw into pieces of usable size.
John> Any good ideas would be greatly appreciated.  Also any
John> suggestions of what other tools could be made.

The best way to cut extremely hard steel like saw blades, files and
drill rod is to use a cutoff wheel.  I prefer to use mine in a
high-speed die grinder (20k RPM), but they might work in a slower
drill motor as well.  Be aware that the thinner the cutoff wheel, the
easier the cutting will be.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814     Email: [email-masked]
Senior Software Engineer                      [email-masked]
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek!hollen

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From: [email-masked] (James W. Swonger)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1993 23:47:05 GMT

The fastest way, as has been suggested, is to score or partially cut the
metal and then break it off. However in my experience you need quite a bit
more than a simple scratch for any amount of certainty that the blade will
break where you want, instead of somewhere else, or multiple elses.

 I have used a Dremel tool with those little abrasive cutoff disks with
some success (mostly determined by the amount of patience I had at the
time; the deeper the groove the more likely to break true). Also important
is to have the piece firmly clamped and to apply the breaking strike 
perpendicular to the flat, near the line. I think being a little bit up 
from it gives a sort of "lever action" but too far makes the blow be 
taken up by spring action. A sharp blow is more likely to crack it right
even if not too forceful; a slower blow is more likely to be distributed.
Holding the piece in tension across the cut will help it break too.

 If making a long "cut" start at one edge and work along as the crack 
propagates.

 For anything but a fairly straight or at least smooth line you're probably
better off breaking just close and grinding the rest of the way. 
-- 
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From: [email-masked] (Larry London)
Date: 10 Aug 1993 03:27:40 GMT

>suggestions of what other tools could be made.

A carbide-tipped Dremel burr bit. Will definitely work and cut cleanly.

[email-masked]