Subject: Followup: Reheading stripped head

From: [email-masked] (Alastair Young)
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 18:07:58 GMT

I drilled and tapped the end of the adjuster and inserted the cap screw. I
think the fact that I don't have a plug tap in that size means the cap
screw is securely locked by the tight thread at the bottom of the hole.
Once in, the cap screw provided enough purchase to screw the adjuster all
the way out and it now runs fairly freely after cleaning out the threads
and applying some HMP grease.

When I refitted the wheel to the bike I was reminded that the adjuster is
half behind the fork leg. I can't get the key in! Boy did I feel stupid.
I'll need to cut a key down to size and re-temper the end. Or revert to the
Stillson wrench.

The brake itself still does not function right. I think the drum may be a
bit oval. Anyone want to recommend a place in the East Bay/Tri-Valley area
that can skim a brake drum mounted in a 19" wheel? Quality service is most
important though low cost would be nice too.

Thanks to r.c.m folks who suggested locking compounds.

Alastair Young                       _       Email: [email-masked]
Cadence Design Systems             )/___     _           
555 River Oaks Parkway           __/(___)####/c   Wanted: 7.5:1 >= +030"   
San Jose, CA 95134              / /\\|| \ /  \             piston for NH
Phone: (408) 428-5278           \__/ ----'\__/          or any adaptable
Fax:   (408) 894-3487           1956 Ariel NH          lumpy 73mm piston