Subject: More metal prep and paint questions

From: [email-masked] (Wayne Smith)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1993 21:16:46 GMT

Thanks for all the replys.
So phosphoric acid is better than muriatic (HCl).  I found that the
HCl did a good job on an upper control arm, and I don't think it attacked
the metal that much (it sure took the rust off).

How would this work:
I use the HCl to get the worst of the rust off, then rince with water,
then use phosphoric acid, and rinse with one of the following:
a) water
b) rubbing alchohol
c) acetone

Then let it dry, then wipe it down with the DuPont metal prep.
Instead of using phosphoric acid, how would TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)
work?

I've also been told that lacquer is dead.  Some states and provinces
have actually out-lawed it.  Only one place in town has 1 (one) gallon 
of clear lacquer left ($58).  It's also supposed to be a pain to keep
up.  They say it oxidizes in air, etc etc.  

Some places also have urathane, and that stuff seems to be the rage
right now.  So...

Can someone compare/contrast Laquer, Enamel, and Urathane (and throw in
acrylic while were at it)?

I've already committed myself to the acrylic laquer, so what can I do
to the top coat to make it last and look good (both if I do and don't
put on a clear-coat)?  Is my only choice for a clear-coat a clear laquer?

And one more thing.
I had my above-mentioned upper control arm powder-coated, and it looks
great.  The powder-coating guy says that a lot of people are getting
more than just suspension/under car parts powder coated.  Apparently,
there is a special type of black power-coat that will accept color
coats, and some people have had whole panels powercoated prior to
painting.  

Does anyone know anything about a powder-coat base under the color
coat?  Is primer used over the powder coat?  What kind of paint can
be used over a power-coat?

I will summarize if I get some response(s).

-Later:Wayne-

---

From: [email-masked] (Bill Kish)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1993 19:34:25 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
[email-masked] (Wayne Smith) writes:

|> How would this work:
|> I use the HCl to get the worst of the rust off, then rince with water,
|> then use phosphoric acid, and rinse with one of the following:
|> a) water
|> b) rubbing alchohol
|> c) acetone
|> Then let it dry, then wipe it down with the DuPont metal prep.
|> Instead of using phosphoric acid, how would TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)
|> work?
|> 

   I think you are setting yourself up for alot of trouble. 
   Metal prep (including DuPont's no-rinse stuff) is not 
   made to remove rust (Thats what sandblasters are for).
   The purpose of the metal prep is to provide a good substrate
   for the paint and prevent the steel from rusting while you 
   work on it prior to priming. (Note: many plastic fillers will 
   not adhere to preped surfaces). Your paint dealer should have 
   product data sheets for all these products and I would suggest
   that you follow the manufacturers instructions, You'll regret
   not doing so if the paint falls off in 6 months!

|> I've also been told that lacquer is dead.  Some states and provinces
|> have actually out-lawed it.  Only one place in town has 1 (one) gallon 
|> of clear lacquer left ($58).  It's also supposed to be a pain to keep
|> up.  They say it oxidizes in air, etc etc.  
|> 
   
   This might be a California situation, I can still buy 
   Ditzler Duracryl at my local paint store.

|> Some places also have urathane, and that stuff seems to be the rage
|> right now.  So...
|> 
|> Can someone compare/contrast Laquer, Enamel, and Urathane (and throw in
|> acrylic while were at it)?
|> 
|> I've already committed myself to the acrylic laquer, so what can I do
|> to the top coat to make it last and look good (both if I do and don't
|> put on a clear-coat)?  Is my only choice for a clear-coat a clear laquer?
|> 
   Get a full-line catalog from your paint dealer. This will have a
   chart showing what you can spray over what. Also, try to find a 
   good bodywork or paint book. (How to paint your hotrod in your
   driveway or equiv.)

			-BK