Subject: Anvil Repair

From: [email-masked] (Steve Hampson)
Date: 13 May 1994 00:28:23 GMT

Here is a description of the process I used to resurface two very badly
damaged anvils:

- Using an angle grinder, smooth the surface to be welded.  Grind out
any cracks and rust.  You may have to leave deep cracks, but most can
be ground out.  The resulting surface can be undulating but don't leave
any narrow furrows that will be difficult to weld.

- Using a propane "weed burner" heat the whole anvil to 300-400 F or
until water sizzles on the surface.  I heated from the bottom and
tested the top.  A 165# anvil took about 15 min. to heat.  The torch
must be very large -- 200,000 btu or more to do this effectively.  This
step is very important!  Without a preheat, your new welds will crack
and fail.  This temperature will not "draw the temper" from the rest of
the anvil surface.  You may have to heat the anvil again if you stop
welding.

- I used a stick welder to carefully add build-up rod to the surface. 
A MIG welder that can use .045" wire would be better, but the spool of
special build-up wire may be very expensive.  I used Stoodie (brand
name) build-up rod 1/8" diameter.  It is much more expensive than
standard rod, but the advantage is that it is meant to be used in many
layers, it will work harden, and it will not get as hard as hard-facing
rod -- this is really an advantage.  It welds like 7018.  Ask for a
copy of the welding instructions when you buy the rod.

- Weld about 2" or 3" horizontally, chip off the slag, pein the surface
and continue.  I worked in sections, building up one layer first on the
whole section, then the next.  Be very careful to remove all the slag
and grind out any slag inclusions.  The sharp 90 degree corners are the
hardest part.  The weld bead is a very flat C shape and the arc will
erode the corner if you are too close.  I just welded the horizontal
and vertical surfaces as close to the edge as possible, layer after
layer until I could weld several passes on the 45 degree surface.  I
continued until I had a large cylinder of weld bead with what was to be
the corner buried inside.  I was sure I had far too much metal.  The
first few times after I ground it off I was still short in a few spots,
so I had to start over again.  The edges should be rounded from a 1/4"
radius, tapering to a sharp edge about half way back to the heel.  I
found it easier to make all the edges sharp and add the radius later in
one pass.

- The finished surface will be a little soft until it work hardens. 
Just work carefully on your new anvil until this happens.  You can
hasten the process by carefully working the surface over with a smooth,
slightly crowned hammer for several hours.  Some light regrinding may
be required after this to remove small dings.

-  If the body of your anvil is wought iron, the first bead on this
metal may crack.  Subsequent beads did not crack, so I don't think this
will cause a problem.

Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

Steve Hampson                           
Blue Sky Research
534 SW 3rd Ave
Portland, OR 97204
503-222-9571
503-222-1643 fax