Subject: Re: Bronze Patinas

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 23:30:28

In article <[email-masked]> [email-masked] writes:
>From: [email-masked]
>Subject: Bronze Patinas
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 20:09:57 PST

>Is anyone working with patinas on Bronze? We are interested in exchanging 
>recipes and ideas. Thanks
Well, one thing that works well for me is dormant spray, the lime/sulfur kind.
You can get it at your gardening supply store.  Produces some really colorful
patinas depending on strength of solution and how long you dip the metal.

The preceding has been a commentary on the world by Copper Squirrel
[email-masked]  All opinions are mine, not yours or anybody else's.
ARS GRATIA VITAE

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 20:09:57 PST

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From: [email-masked] (Insect God)
Date: 11 Jan 1995 11:26:01 -0500

[email-masked] (BrnzCaster) speaks:
>METHODS FOR MODERN SCULPTORS
>Ronald Young and Robert Fennell
>ISBN 0-9603744-0-X

This is an ok book.  Starting from absolute scratch, I have been able to get
the simplest recipes to work.  However, *there is no substitute for watching
somebody do it*.  My advice to amateurs is, read the book first, then spy on
your local foundry, and see what the motion is like for heating an area
evenly with a torch, how to use a stipple brush, the way a cupric nitrate
solution should sizzle, how to keep drips away, what to do when you've
flamed the end of your brush and there are bits of charred bristle
everywhere.  A thousand things that will never be in the book.

>For my own work, I brew my own. Depending on what color 
>or effect I want, I use cupric nitrate, ammonium chloride
>and burned oils, alone or in combination.

I've tried linseed and motor oils, as per Young and Fennel's instructions,
and what I tend to get is a sticky, smelly coating of sludge the same color
as the oil.  With care I can get it to be a thin, even coating, but this
still doesn't seem like a desirable result: it isn't going into the metal,
and it won't buff.  Any hints here?

-Sheba

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From: [email-masked] (BrnzCaster)
Date: 11 Jan 1995 17:21:36 -0500

Regarding the hot oil patina:
I preheat the metal, same as with the aqueous solutions.
Use the *minimum* amount of oil. Sometimes I cut it with mineral spirits.
Mostly, I stick with either Linseed or Tung oils.

Winston

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From: [email-masked] (BrnzCaster)
Date: 11 Jan 1995 08:27:28 -0500

The best "cookbook" I have with patina formula is:

For pre-mixed patina and coloring solutions in small
amounts, the JAX brand handled by Merritt's Antiques at
610-689-9541 are OK. They have several at $7.50/pint.

For those who want to experiment with small pieces, get
some "gun bluing" at the local sporting goods store and
try different times and dilutions.

Winston