Subject: FAQ part 6 of 8

From: [email-masked] (Jim Kirkpatrick)
Date: 2 Jan 95 15:53:47 MST

This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking.  It is in several pieces
to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by
some news systems.  This is part 6 of 8.

Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit,
and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use.  Sorry.

The questions being answered in part 1:

0.  Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup?
1.  The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter.
2.  The CLOCKS bitnet mailing list, and other related lists.
3.  What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking?
4.  Who makes good lathes/mills/etc?

The questions being answered in part 2:

5.  Where do I buy a machine?
6.  What are good magazines to subscribe to?
7.  Where might one take classes or get instruction?
8.  Where can I get raw material for my projects?
9.  Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.?
10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations?
11. How do I harden/temper metal?
12  How do I wire up this strange motor?
13. How do I deal with mail-order suppliers?
14. How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools?
15. Some safety reminders.

The questions being answered in part 3:

16. How do I drill round holes?
17. What's TIG and MIG?
18. MIG welding technique.
19. Which MIG welder should I buy?
20. Books on welding.
21. Soldering/brazing topics.

The questions being answered in part 4:

22. What are bolt grades?
23. What is XYZ made of?
24. How do I build a furnace or forge?
25. What is Damascus steel?
26. How do I repair/replace this old leather belt?

The questions being answered in part 5:

27. Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill?
28. What is involved in building a steam engine?
29. How do I anodize aluminum?
30. Rust!  How do I deal with rust?

The questions being answered in part 6:

31. Are there any machinery museums?
32. How do I cut metal?
33. What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?
34. What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?

The questions being answered in parts 7 and 8:

35. What is Electric Discharge Machining (EDM)?
36. Solvent safety
99. Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers
    (OK, so I got tired of re-numbering it every time a new
    question was added!)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

31.   Are there any machinery museums?

      Maine: Owls Head Transportation Museum, just South of Rockland,
      Maine (about midway up the Maine coast).  Many airplanes, but
      also bicycles, static and cutaway aircraft engines, automobiles,
      and early steam and gasoline engines.  In summertime they do
      car shows and regular weekend flying shows, and run some of the
      other equipment such as a Buffalo Springfield steam roller and
      a one-cylinder Mogul tractor.  Occasionally have auctions of
      engines, model and full-size, and other mechanical stuff;  these
      are consignment auctions that benefit the museum, not "overstock"
      of the museum itself.  Phone (207) 594-4418.

      American Precision Museum
      P.O. Box 679
      Windsor, VT 05089
      (802) 674-5781
      On display are mostly metalworking tools which date from the early 1800s
      up through some of the first numerically controlled machines.  In
      addition there is some woodworking equipment.  The museum is located
      just off U.S. route 5 or South Main St. in Windsor, Vermont and from
      May 20 to November 1 it is open 9 to 5 on weekdays and 10 to 4 on
      Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

      The Smithsonian Museums, Washington DC.

      Boston Computer Museum.  Lots of computers of course, if you are
      interested.  They also have a mechanical "computer" that plays
      tic-tac-toe made from tinkertoys and string.  Also a robotics
      display which should be enjoyed by metalworkers.

      Cambridge, Massachussets: the Science Museum has several mechanical
      displays and a full machine shop in the basement.

      Rhode Island: Old Slater Cotton Mill in Pawtucket.  Machine shop
      with vintage machinery, much in running condition.

      National Ornamental Metal Museum, Memphis TN.  (901) 744-6380

      Los Alamos National Lab (New Mexico) has a museum, including things
      like the Beryllium-Copper tools used in early atomic bomb work.

      Henry Ford Museum, and/or Greenfield Village (adjacent to the
      museum), near Dearborn/Detroit Michigan.  Very large, described as a
      paradise for mechanical engineering nuts.  The museum is 12 acres,
      and the village is 93 acres.  One day is inadequate for a full visit!
      Old cars, steam engines, restored 1880s factories, Thomas Edison's
      workshop (Henry Ford had Edison's "old" workshop/lab in Menlo Park,
      New Jersey, disassembled and moved to Michigan; Edison's newer lab,
      where most of his famous work was done, is in West Orange, New Jersey)
      and Henry Ford's workshop.

      Thomas Edison's lab is in West Orange, New Jersey (not Menlo Park).
      It is officially the Edison National Historical Site and run by
      the National Park Service.  What is there is the remnant of a factory
      complex that employed some 10,000 people at its peak, before WWI.
      The factory is gone, but there is a sizable two-story brick building,
      the lab, and several smaller buildings.  The whole facility has
      been preserved since Edison's death in the 1930s.  The lab contains
      a large machine shop, still set up as it would have been back then.
      It's called the "heavy machine shop", and it has the larger planers,
      lathes, and other machines.  All driven from line shafts, which were
      actuated (of course!) by large electric motors.  There is, or had
      been, a second shop (the "precision shop") on the second floor.
      Access is only by tour.  The takes 35 minutes, stops for 3
      minutes to look at the roped-off heavy machine shop (there's also a
      chem lab, a library, and some other stuff).  The precision shop
      is off limits.  The level of detail is geared to the interest of the
      general public, and don't confuse the schoolchildren.
      It's at Main Street and Lakeside Avenue, in West Orange.

      Future: In Greenfield, Massachussets, they are trying to put
      together a cutting tool museum.  As of this writing (6/15/94)
      they are still trying to find a place to house it, so it may
      be mid-1995 or so before it opens.  May have early steam/gasoline
      engines when open.  (8/26/94: plans are to put it in the old
      Greenfield Tap and Die plant).

      Around central Massachussets, there is also the Springfield
      Armoury, LS Starrett, Old Sturbridge Village (a colonial
      "theme" village), Charles River Museum of Industry (154 Moody Street,
      Waltham, MA 02154  tele (617) 893-5410), a textile museum in Lowell
      with machinery and lots of displays of cloth, and the American Precision
      Museum (mentioned earlier); all within an hour and a half of Greenfield.

      Nantucket Island (off Massachusetts) has a 1740 windmill grinding corn
      (maze) when there is enough wind and it's wooden works are a fine
      example of the tech of the time... they also have machinery for
      manufacture of candles from whale oil in the Whaling museum there.

      At Saugus (North of Boston), the iron works is a fine example of
      a 1650  iron works right down to a  replica of one of only 8
      rolling and slitting mills that existed in the world at that time.

      Lock Museum of America, Inc.  
      P. O. Box 104
      Terryville, CT 06786-0104
      phone  (203) 589-6359, (203) 589-6359 (FAX)
      I don't have any information on this other than the above;
      not even a street address!  May only be open on weekends.

      Connecticut Electric Railway Museum at Warehouse Point (2 miles from
      I-91, about 20 miles north of Hartford) has a repair shop with the
      usual machine shop tools for its fine collection of trolley cars.

      Another trolley museum is forming now in Shelburne Falls, Mass.,
      about 10 miles west of Greenfield, which will restore the original
      trolley car which served that town and may have a small workshop/carbarn
      by 1995/1996(?).  (That is c/o Shelburne Chamber of Commerce.)

      Ohio: The museum of the early industrial revolution is located in
      Coalbrookdale (AKA Iron Bridge Gorge), has a lot of early steam
      engines -- walking beam, etc.  The last working producer of wrought
      iron in England donated the complete factory when they went out of
      business.

      Future: the National Inventors' Hall of Fame due to open in 1995
      in Akron OH... the PR says that it will allow "Visitors to tinker
      with wind tunnels, lathes, molds and other engines of creation"

      Tennesee:  Dixie Gun Works, in Union City.  They demo how gun barrels
      were forged around the time of the American Civil War.  Lots of
      machinery, automobiles, nostalgic junk, photos, and of course guns.

      Colorado Springs, Colorado:  just north is an excellent museum
      dealing with hard rock mining, including working examples of
      machinery.  The Museum of Western Mining is just off I-25 at
      exit 156 (North gate of the Air Force academy).  Colorado Springs
      is about 60 miles south of Denver.  They even have blacksmithing
      classes.

      Denver has one of the US Mints, where they stamp out coins
      (not printed money).  Tours; kind of boring, but it doesn't
      take too long.

      Denver also has the Forney Transportation Museum, which I think
      is a real dump *except* they have a Big Boy locomotive on display
      you can walk right up to and look over (world's largest steam
      locomotive ever built).

      East of Denver is the Georgetown Loop, a small historical
      railroad that also has a hardrock mine tour.

      Just east of Denver, near Golden, is the Colorado Railroad Museum.

      If you are in Durango, Colorado, the Durango & Silverton railroad
      (a nice narrow-gauge mountain scenic tour) has tours of their
      steam engine shop, including the only known remaining engine-wheel
      "quartering" machine (sets loco wheels at 90 degrees on the shaft).

      Santa Monica Flying Museum.  Santa Monica, CA.  Don't know much
      about it except they have on display a "rotary" engine where the
      crank and pistons are stationary, and the case revolves.

      California:  the Antique Gas & Steam Engine Museum, run in part by
      the California Early Day Gas Engine & Tractor Association.
      2400 North Santa Fe Avenue, Vista CA 92083.  Call (619) 941-1791
      or (800) 5-TRACTOR.  Steam, gas, tractors, blacksmith shop,
      farm implements.  Twice a year for two consecutive weekends
      they start engines, run tractors, and such (apparently the
      last 2 weekends in June and October).

      The Knight Foundry in Sutter Creek, California, is a commercial
      foundry using/preserving old-time methods such as a water-powered
      line shaft for their work.  See the names/addresses section at the
      end of the FAQ for more details.

      Canada: Museum of Steam and Technology, in Hamilton, Ontario.
      Built around the original City of Hamilton waterworks plant and
      contains the two original Gartshore compound rotative beam pumping
      engines from the 1850s.  These engines stand about four stories high.
      The museum also contains quite a bit of steam model oriented exhibits.

      In England, the museum at Iron Bridge (or Ironbridge Gorge) deals
      with the history of the metals industry.

      Black Country Museum in Dudley (West of Birmingham, in the Midlands).
      This was in the heart of small-scale Victorian engineering, and it's
      now a restored canal basin & canal tunnel (boat rides available)
      together with a number of small terraced houses and manufactories.
      Most of the houses have an outbuilding in their back yards with the
      workshops of nailmakers, chainmakers etc.

      Also in England, the Hunday tractor museum (just off the A69
      Newcastle-Carlisle road).  A farm museum with tractors, implements,
      stationary engines, etc.  They reportedly also have a grass landing
      strip for airplanes, but you'd better call before landing!

      There's a museum in Bath (walk up-hill from the Assembly Rooms)
      which has an interesting collection of old workshop machinery
      (and an old fizzy-water bottling plant).

      If you're in Bristol then visit the Industrial Museum which has a good
      collection of aero engines.

      The Amberley (?spel) Chalk Pits Museum, Sussex.  Perhaps not too
      relevant to this group, as there's more besides old metalwork-style
      engineering.  But their narrow gauge factory railway is still running,
      along with a couple of stationary engines.  Also, a good collection
      of old radio sets and related equipment, and for some, the prize
      exhibit, a UAX13 telephone exchange, still operating, which runs the
      museum phone system.  Add to that a small collection of old domestic
      electrical appliances, demonstrations of old crafts, printing presses,
      etc.

      The Cambridge (or is it Cambridgeshire) Museum of Technology, Cambridge.
      The old water pumping station on the River Cam, and they still run the
      horizontal oscillating steam engines.  These were replaced by
      single-cylinder gas engines which they also run.  There are a couple of
      other engines to see, the original boilers, a small collection of
      electrical stuff, a collection of printing presses, and a few other
      things.  This museum only opens occasionally, so check opening times
      before visiting.

      The Hove Engineerium, near Brighton.  There are about 3 or 4 stationary
      steam engines that are run at some weekends, together with a very nice
      collection of model engines, etc. 

      Science Museum of London has a recently-built "difference engine",
      as designed by Charles Babbage (see February 1993 Scientific
      American).  An amazing machine.

      Kew Bridge Pumping Museum just West of London, across the bridge
      from Kew Gardens.  Lots of steam engines working each weekend,
      including a 90-inch beam engine.  Also internal combustion engines.

      NRM (National Railway Museum) in York, England.  A great place to go
      look at Railway stuff in general, lots of nice big steam engines.
      The NRM is expanding their workshop/restoration area and opening
      it up to the public (from behind a barrier, obviously) so you can
      go and watch them rebuilding and maintaining their "stock".
          National Railway Museum (NRM)
          Leeman Road                     Voice: +44-904-621261
          York YO2 4XJ                      FAX: +44-904-611112

      Manchester Museum of Science and Industry.
      Manchester was one of the primary centers of the industrial revolution -
      the railroad trials in the 1820's were run between Manchester and
      Liverpool (Stevenson's Rocket won, of course), and the area was the heart
      of the cotton and silk industry.  The first canal in Britain originated
      near Manchester to carry coal to factories, and Alan Turing did much of
      his computer work here.  There was also a thriving automobile and
      aircraft industry.
      To support all these activities, there was lots of machinery manufactured
      and used in the area.  The museum has many stationary engines (they claim
      the world's largest collection of working engines), in steam most days;
      also steam railroad engines, one of which does short trips on weekends.
      Also a great collection of microscopes, and interesting exhibits on
      computers, electricity and gas generation, sewers (as in sewage), cotton
      spinning and weaving (they demonstrate machinery at all stages from raw
      cotton to finished cloth).  The machine shop where the museum staff work
      on many projects has a viewing gallery, and this also houses an exhibit
      of old machine tools, including a Holzapfel lathe.

32.   How do I cut metal?

      Jim Driscoll posted a list of cutting methods, ranging from simple to
      exotic.  There were several subsequent suggestions and additions.

      - Snips

      These things are scissors that will cut light gauge metal [up to 23-18
      gauge, depending on type] and are comparatively inexpensive [$15-$42,
      W. W. Grainger (WWG)].  The lighter the material the easier they are
      to use, and the more likely it is that you can cut a curved shape
      successfully.

      There are electric versions of these, called electric shears, that will
      cut up to 12ga mild, cut down to 1in radius, and cost from $204-$612.
      I have no experience with these.

      - Knock-out Punches

      Sometimes what you want to cut is a circle, or a slot for a computer
      connector.  In these cases there are standard punches that will cut
      these shapes accurately.  You first drill a pilot hole and put the
      cutter on one side, the die on the other, and then draw them together
      by turning a threaded bolt.  The larger sizes require a hydraulic
      driver.

      The manufacturer claims that these are good up to 10 gauge mild, but I
      have managed to cut holes in 12ga stainless (a tad thinner, but
      stronger). These things cost $17-$66 (WWG) for up to 2in, considerably
      more for the larger sizes ($309 for 4in).

      - Hack Saw

      You probably already know about this, but don't forget it.  Its
      portable and cheap, but can be tiring.  Use both hands, and buy the
      best blade you can afford.  Any blade can break, so be careful.
      Cutting fluid reportedly helps, just as it does in lathe/mill cutting.
      The right number of teeth per inch (tpi) can also be important; as a rule
      of thumb, you want 3 teeth in the work, so for example you'd want 6 to 12
      tpi for 1/2-inch stock.

      - SawzAll

      Sawzall is a trademark of Milwaukee for a reciprocating saw, more or
      less a jigsaw on steroids (And don't forget the jigsaw!).  These cost
      $136-$187 and with enough patience and blades can cut fairly heavy
      material in complex shapes (well, at least curves of 3in radius).  One
      metal fabricator I met cuts the patterns for his stainless cones with
      a Sawzall.  He has just broken down an purchased a plasma torch
      (q.v.).

      - Band Saw upright/cutoff

      These come in every size from the tiny to the unimaginably big.  They
      come in two basic styles, an upright version that is better for trying
      to cut shapes, and a cut-off version that has the throat arranged so
      that an arbitrarily large length can be cut off of an arbitrarily long
      piece of stock.  These things, for a reasonable size for a home shop
      cost from $150-$5000.  I have a version of the cheesey cut-off saw
      sold by Enco and others for about $200.  It has its limitations, but I
      am happy with it.

      - Grinder with Cutoff Wheel

      With an angle grinder or a die grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel,
      you can cut pipe, tube, rounds, flats, sheet, and maybe even plate,
      but only in straight line, or maybe a very large radius curve.  If you
      already have a grinder, this is a very inexpensive solution ($4 for an
      abrasive wheel).

      There are also cutoff wheels designed for use in circular saws.

      - Chop Saw

      This is basically a mitre saw with an abrasive cutoff wheel.  It's the
      kind of thing a contractor users to cut metal studs or rebar, but I
      use one to cut pipe, tube, rounds, and flat stock quickly.  They cost
      $233-$502.

      - Nibbler

      These look a bit like a jigsaw, but instead of a blade, they have a
      punch and die assembly.  They work by punching out material 1-2000
      times per minute along the cutting path.  Some are designed with a
      round punch so that the tool can be turned in any direction and the
      cut continued for cutting intricate shapes.  These cost from $318
      (16ga mild) to $1060 (8ga mild).  You can rent these at my local tool
      rental store.

      There are also small hand-powered nibblers from Radio Shack and the
      like, useful for odd holes in small chassis and the like.

      - Lathe/Milling Machine

      Don't forget that you can use a lathe to cut off material to a precise
      length or to finish a crudely cut piece to a more precise dimension.

      A milling machine can be used to mill slots for connectors as well as
      other crazily shaped holes in heavier material.

      - Shear

      A shear is basically a giant pair of scissors that is designed to cut
      sheet or plate along a straight line into two pieces rather cleanly
      and somewhat precisely (+-1/32).  A small 30in combination shear,
      brake, and roll, that is manually powered and can shear 20ga mild
      costs $1095.  Shears, however, are made unimaginably large, and if you
      go to a shipyard, you can probably get your 2in plate sheared there.
      It is probably outside the budget of most to actually buy a shear for
      anything but very light material.  Your best bet is to find a welding
      shop in a cheap part of town, that has operated for generations, that
      seems to have nothing to do, and that has a shear.

      - Flame Cutting

      The idea behind flame cutting is to heat up ferrous metal until it
      starts to burn, and then direct oxygen at it in the direction you want
      to cut to continue the burn in that direction.  When I was on a tight
      budget I successfully got my job done with a $20 hardware store
      oxygen/propane outfit, but for about $200-$300 plus the rental/deposit
      on the tanks you can have a nice welding/cutting rig that will cut 6in
      plate.

      You can cut fairly intricate shapes with this, and depending on your
      skill and dexterity and the thickness of the material they will have a
      fairly clean edge.

      One drawback of this method is that it is material specific.  It will
      not cut stainless, for instance.  (Well, actually I have seen the
      results of someone ``severing'' stainless with a burning rig [``cut''
      would be a bit generous considering the results], and I am suspicious
      that what really happened was that the stainless was melted away.)

      - Plasma Cutting

      A plasma torch transfers an electric arc from the torch to the work
      piece which heats up a stream of gas (usually just compressed air) to
      a plasma.  The thin stream of plasma is so hot that it will cut any
      known metal (That is, according to my manual.  I am suspicious that it
      will cut all the unknown ones too.)  A hand held torch that can cut
      1/8in mild costs about $1000 and you need a compressor or an air
      cylinder too.  The quality of the cut is very good if you have enough
      power for the thickness of the material and if you can move the torch
      smoothly.

      I have a 30amp plasma torch from HyperTherm that I am very pleased
      with.  I use it to cut stainless and use nitrogen for the cutting gas.

      If you are considering buying one of these, you should know that 30
      amps from one manufacturer may not cut as much or as well as 20 amps
      from another.  Also, when one manufacturer claims that their machine
      will cut 1/2" plate it may not be the same quality of cut as another
      machine that claims to cut 1/2":  the closer you push the machine to
      its limit, the worse the cut.

      - Laser Cutting

      A friend of a friend in the Netherlands has one of these that looks
      like a scroll saw and cuts thick material cleanly, rapidly, and
      intricately.  I have no knowledge of small units like this in this
      country despite modest attempts to find them.  There is no particular
      reason why these should be terribly expensive.

      Warning: Many of the cutting methods above utilize tools with which it
      is quite easy to injure yourself.  It is important to lean and follow
      the proper precautions in using tools and equipment.  I know this
      because, for example, I burned myself with liquid propane out of
      ignorance of the proper safety precautions for handling fork lift
      propane cylinders.

33.   What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill?

      This is certainly a frequently asked question!  The first answer is to
      use whatever the manufacturer's manual suggests, presuming you have
      a manual for your machine.

      Feed-screw threads, half nuts, back gears and similar are usually
      lubricated with a heavy oil such as Vactra 2, or grease if protected
      from chips and swarf.  Some suggest a mixture of oil and STP oil
      treatment.

      Beds and "ways" are often treated with special oils, called "way oils".
      ISO 68 (light to medium weight).  Examples:  Exxon Febis K 68, Shell
      Tona T-68, Sun way lub 1180, Mobil Vactra No 2, Texaco Way lube 68,
      Gulf Gulfway 68, Cheveron Vistac 68X.

      Spindle bearings call for "spindle oil" such as Exxon Nutto H32,
      Shell Tellus V32, BP HLP32, Castrol Hyspin AWS32, and Mobil DTE 32
      (in this case the 32 is the ISO VG32 spec, about the same as SAE
      10-weight, and is what Myford recommends for their lathes).  ISO
      grade 22 is also used.

      All three types are available from the better supply outfits,
      such as MSC.  Remember that the money you spend on proper oils will
      be a lot less than the cost of replacing the machine!

      South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
      their 9" and 10" lathes:  CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
      oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 teflon grease.  These are
      available from South Bend.

      A suggestion I've read is to oil lathe ways before using, to clean off
      dust/grunge that may have accumulated since you last used it.  After
      work is finished, wipe off but leave a film for rust prevention.

      Multigrade motor lubricants are not recommended.  They are full of
      all sorts of stuff to make the oil work inside an internal combustion
      engine.  Use a straight 30 or 20 grade oil with no detergent if you
      can't find anything else.  A transmission oil might be OK in an
      oil-filled gearcase.

      Elsewhere we mentioned the book "A Brief treatise on Oiling Machine
      Tools" (Guy Lautard) but nobody's posted a review yet.

34.   What are the various tapers (Morse, JT, R8, etc.)?

      Unfortunately, there are many different tapers, and not enough
      space to tabulate them here.  For details, consult a good reference
      such as Machinery's Handbook, or Machinists' Ready Reference.

      First, why use tapers?  Two basic reasons.  At shallow angles,
      a tapered rod will tend to stick in a matching socket.  This
      is frequently used to hold tools such as drills or centers in
      a lathe tailstock, allowing rapid change.  At steep or shallow
      angles, a taper allows mating parts to line up very accurately.
      Note that the shallow tapers such as Morse may tend to get
      stuck if too much force is used, and this can turn into an
      interesting problem when you try to separate them!

      Tapers are poor holders for large side-loads, in which case
      you need a drawbolt or drawbar.  Here, a threaded bar is used to
      pull (draw) the tool into the socket and hold it in place.
      This is commonly used in milling machines and for collets.

      Shallow tapers such as Morse are "grabby" and need some force
      to break free.  Beyond a certain angle, a taper is self-releasing
      if the coefficient of friction is less than the tangent of the
      taper angle.

      Tapers can be sensitive to chips and dirt, so keep them clean.
      A gouged taper socket can usually be cleaned up nicely with a
      taper reamer, if you can borrow one.

      Morse:  Very common in lathe spindles and tailstocks.  Different
      standard sizes exist, such as MT1, MT2, and so on.  The actual
      taper varies from one size to the next.  Some examples:
         MT0   small=.252 inch, large=.3561 inch, taper=.62460 in/ft
         MT1   small=.369 inch, large=.4750 inch, taper=.59858 in/ft
         MT2   small=.572 inch, large=.7000 inch, taper=.59941 in/ft
         MT3   small=.778 inch, large=.9380 inch, taper=.60235 in/ft
         MT4   small=1.02 inch, large=1.231 inch, taper=.62326 in/ft
         MT 4 1/2, MT5-MT7: see references.
      These values are for the "business" part of the taper, and exclude
      whatever the taper is attached to, such as a drill or a center,
      and also excludes the tang, if any.  Note that there is no overlap,
      making it practically impossible to mate mis-matched tapers (this
      may also explain the different taper rates).  Some MT accessories such
      as drills will have a flat tang on the end, intended to mate with
      a matching slot in the socket, to give a setup better strength
      against rotation; in this case the taper is primarily being used
      for alignment, and to hold the drill from falling out when not
      being used.  Most small home-sized lathes use between MT0 (e.g.
      the Sherline) and MT4.  Larger taper sockets may include a
      sideways slot, intended for a flat tapered knock-out bar to
      facilitate tool removal.  Machinery's Handbook claims that Morse
      tapers are the only type of taper used on drills that have a
      taper shank.

      Morse Stub: a variation of Morse, but less than half as long.
      Same numbers as Morse, and correspond to the large end; that is,
      you can make a Morse Stub #3 by slicing off the end of a standard
      Morse #3 (excluding the problem of making the tang, if any).

      Brown & Sharpe tapers are similar to Morse tapers, but are
      found on some end mills and reamers, and on milling machines
      and grinding machines, also dividing heads.  Sometimes they have
      a tang, sometimes they are drilled and tapped for a draw-bolt.
      Some examples:
         BS1   small=.20000 inch, large=.23922 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS2   small=.25000 inch, large=.29968 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS3   small=.31250 inch, large=.37525 inch, taper=.50200 in/ft
         BS4   small=.3500  inch, large=.4023  inch, taper=.50240 in/ft
         BS5-BS18 see references.  Taper varies with number.

      Jarno:  Used on various machines, such as profiling machines and
      die-sinking machines, and on some lathes.  An attempt to create
      a very simple taper: all of them are .6 inch of taper per foot,
      the diameter at the large end is as many eighths, the diameter at
      the small end is as many tenths, and the length as many half-inches
      as the number of the taper (i.e. machinists making tapers didn't
      have to use big formulae or tables).   Some examples:
         2   small=.2, large=.25
         3   small=.3, large=.375
         4-20 see references, or compute from formulae above.

      Jacobs Taper:  commonly used to mount a drill chuck to a machine,
      whether a drill press or a lathe tailstock.  Since most chucks
      use a female Jacobs, such as JT6, and most tailstocks are female
      Morse, an adapter bar is usually used here, with the appropriate
      tapers on each end.  The taper varies quite a bit with taper number.
      Some examples:
         4   small=1.0372, large=1.1240, taper=.62886 inch per foot
         6   small=0.6760, large=0.6241, taper=.62010 inch per foot
      Nubers 0-5 appear to have been original, in that number 6 and
      number 33 (no 7-32!) are smaller than 5, and have a length of
      exactly 1 inch, and thus seem like later additions to the series.
      Number 2 is possibly also supplied in a short version, in addition
      to a standard-length 2.

      R8:  Frequently used on milling machine spindles.  Lots of tooling
      is available for R8.  Requires the use of a drawbar as the angle
      is relatively "blunt" and usage is often vertical with large side
      loads.  The taper is apparently 16 degrees 51 minutes, and the
      relevant diameters are .949 and 1.25 inches.  The drawbar thread
      is 7/16-20

      Others:

        American National Standard Tapers: really several families.
        The "self-holding" series appears largely identical to Morse
        except for details of the tang dimensions:  ANS continue the
        taper all the way down the sides of the tang, while Morse ends
        the taper at the start of the tang, with a straight-sided tang
        that starts out a bit smaller than where the taper left off.
        Some very small tapers are based on Brown & Sharp (they have
        fractional numbers), and some large ones use a taper of
        .75 inch per foot (numbers 200-1200).  They also have a
        separate family of steep tapers, numbered 5-30 in steps of
        5, apparently meant for milling machine spindles and such.

        British Standard Tapers: mentioned in Machinery's Handbook
        but not really explained.  Sorry.